•RESOURCES 


OP 


THE    PACIFIC    SLOPE. 


STATISTICAL  AND  DESCRIPTIVE  SUMMARY 


MINES  AND  MNERALS,  CLIMATE,  TOPOGRAPHY,  AGRICULTURE,  COMMERCE, 

MANUFACTURES,  AND  MISCELLANEOUS  PRODUCTIONS,  OF  THE  STATES 

AND  TERRITORIES  WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 


\        -  WITH 

'A     SKETCH 

OF 

THE  SETTLEMENT  AND  EXPLORATION   OF 
LOWER  CALIFORNIA. 


BY 

J.  BOSS    BROWNE, 

AIDBB       BT       A       COBPS       OF       AB8I8TAHTB, 


[TJiriVBRSITT] 


SAN   FRANCISCO: 
H.    H.    BANCROFT    AND    COMPANY. 

1869. 


r*     '^    '■  \        V  \ 


vrgS\ 


STf^^ 


Entebbd,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1868,  by 

D.  APPLETON  &  COMP.\]Snr, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the  Southern  District  of 

New  York. 


LETTER 


FROM 


THE  SECRETARY  OF  THE  TREASURY. 


TRANSMITTING 


Tlic  report  of  J.  Boss  Browne  on  the  mineral  resources  of  jjie  States  and  Terri- 
tories west  of  the  liocl'i/  moimtcins. 


March  5,  ]  808.— Eeferred  to  tlae  Committee  en  Mines  and  -lining  and  ordered  to  be  printed. 


Teeasuey  ■'epaetmbkt,  March  5, 1868. 
Sir  :  I  have  the  honor  to  transmit  to  the  puse  of  Representatives  the  report 
of  J.  Ross  Bro\\Tie  on  the  mineral  resources  (  t^ie  States  and  Territories  west  of 
the  Rocky  mountains. 

Very  respectfullv,  your  obedient  se-'^'^^ 

H.  Mcculloch, 

Secretary/  of  the  Trcasiiri/. 
Hon.  ScnUYLEE  Colfax, 

Speaker  of  the  House  of  Ttcpre-'^ntatives. 


REPORT   „.,     . 

OF  ^^S:*^- 

J.  BOSS    BEOWNE, 


THE  MINERAL  RESOURCES  OF  THE  STATES  AND  TERRITORIES  WEST  OF 
THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 


Washi^^gtox,  D.  C,  March  5,  18GS. 
Sir  :  In  the  preliminary  report  wliicb  I  had  the  honor  to  transmit  to  you  irom 
San  Francisco  in  November,  18GC,  a  general  smnmary  was  given  of  the  mineral 
resources  of  the  States  and  Territories  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains.  It  was 
not  anticipated  by  the  department  that  the  information  required  under  letter  of 
instructions  dated  August  2,  ISGG,  could  be  obtained  in  full  uithin  the  brief 
period  intervening  before  the  next  meeting  of  Congress;  but  it  was  hoped  that 
sutiicient  data  might  be  collected  to  fiu-nish  a  general  idea  of  the  rise  and  pro- 
gTcss  of  the  mining  interest  on  the  Pacific  slope.  No  oflicial  document  in  any 
department  of  the  government  contained  accurate  infonnation  on  this  subject, 
and  it  was  considered  desirable  that  special  attention  should  be  given  to  the  fol- 
lowing points: 

1.  The  origin  of  gold  and  silver  mining  on  the  Pacific  coast  and  present  condi- 
tion of  that  interest,  as  tending  to  show  the  progress  of  settlement  and  civilization. 

2.  Geological  formation  of  the  great  mineral  belts  and  general  characteristics, 
of  the  placer  diggings  and  quartz  lodes. 

3.  Different  systems  of  mining,  machinery  used,  processes  of  reducing  the  ores, 
percentage  of  waste,  and  net  profits. 

4.  Population  engaged  in  mining,  exclusively  and  in  part,  capital  and  labor 
employed,  value  of  improvements,  number  of  mills  and  steam  engines  in  opera- 
tion, yield  of  the  mines,  average  of  dividends,  and  losses. 

5.  Proportion  of  agricultural  and  mineral  lands  in  each  district,  quantity  of 
woodland,  facilities  for  obtaining  fuel,  number  and  extent  of  streams,  and  water 
privileges. 

6.  Salt  beds,  deposits  of  soda  and  borax,  and  alLother  valuable  mineral  deposits. 

7.  Altitude,  character  of  climate,  mode  and  cost  of  living,  cost  of  all  kinds  of 
material,  cost  of  labor,  &c. 

8.  I\)pulation  of  the  mining  towns,  nuraljcr  of  banks  and  banking  institutions 
in  them,  facilities  for  assaying,  melting,  and  refining  bullion ;  charges  upon  tlic 
same  for  transportation  and  insurance. 

9.  Communication  with  the  mines  and  principal  towns,  postal  and  telegi'aphic 
lines;  stage  routes;  <;ost  of  travel;  probable  benefits  likel}'  to  result  from  con- 
struction of  the  Pacific  railroad  and  its  proposed  branches. 

10.'  Necessity  f<n'  assay  ollices  and  public  depositories;  what  financial  facili- 
ties uiay  tend  to  develop  the  country  and  enhance  its  products. 

11.  Copies  of  local  mining  laws  and  customs  regulating  the  h(ddiug  and 
working  of  claims. 

12.  Number  of  ledges  opened,  number  claimed,  character  of  the  soil  in  the 
mining  districts,  and  its  adaptation  to  the  support  of  a  large  population. 


4  RESOUECES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

.  Tlie  preliminary  report,  submitted  in  answer  to  tliese  inquiries,  embraced  sucli 
infonnation  as  could  be  obtained  ■vsitbin  the  brief  period  allowed  for  its  preparation, 
Altliougli  imperfect  in  many  respects,  it  was  received  by  the  people  of  the  Pacific 
coast  as  an  indication  of  a  gTO'U'ing  interest  on  the  part  of  government  in  the  de- 
velopment of  our  mineral  resources.  It  was  a  source  of  gi-atification  to  the  miners 
to  find  that,  after  years  of  unprofitable  toil,  during  which  they  had  contributed 
largely  to  the  national  wealth,  the  peculiar  character  of  their  occupation  was 
beginning  to  be  understood,  audits  inlluence  in  promoting  settlement  and  ci%'i]iza- 
tion  to  1)0  better  appreciated. 

The  report  which  I  now  have  the  honor  to  submit  is  the  result  of  many  years 
of  labor  and  exploration.  It  contains  the  aggregated  experience  of  the  ablest 
statisticians  and  experts  on  the  Pacific  coast.  If  there  bo  any  merit  in  the  work, 
it  belongs  chiefly  to  my  co-laborers,  Avho  have  devoted  themselves  with  such 
unselfish  zeal  to  the  promotion  of  the  objects  designed  to  be  accomplished  by 
this  commission.  The  fund  appropriated  by  Congress  was  insuflicient  to  admit 
of  compensation  adequate  to  such  labor ;  but  assistance  was  cheerfully  given,  as 
a  matter  of  public  benefit,  -without  regard  to  personal  or  pecuniary  considerations. 
When  it  is  taken  into  view  that  this  inquiry  extends  over  the  Territories  of  Utah, 
Ai'izona,  Montana,  Idaho,  and  Washington,  and  the  States  of  Oregon,  California, 
and  Nevada,  embracing  an  area  of  country  stretching  fi'om  the  Rocky  mountains 
to  the  Pacific,  and  from  Mexico  to  British  Columbia;  that  in  many  parts  of  this 
vast  mineral  range  travel  is  still  difiicult  and  expensive;  that  the  business  of 
mining  is  new  to  the  American  people,  and  the  collection  of  statistics  unsystem- 
atized in  this  department  of  industiy,  it  will  be  conceded  that  as  much  has  been 
accomplished  as  could  reasonably  be  expected. 

An  eiToneous  idea  prevails  that  the  collection  of  mining  statistics  involves 
original  explorations  and  detailed  personal  examinations  of  every  mine  through- 
out the  vast  range  of  our  mineral  regions,  with  scientific  and  })ractical  deduc- 
tions relative  to  the  treatment  of  ores;  and  it  is  expected  by  some  that  the  infor- 
mation obtained  shall  be  entirely  new,  and  furnish  a  complete  index  for  the 
purchase,  sale  or  working  of  every  mine  in  the  country.  Apart  from  the  fact 
that  such  an  investigation  would  require  tho  employment  for  many  years  of  a 
large  scientific  force  at  great  expense,  it  would  be  difiicult  even  then  to  present 
statistics  which  had  not  already  been  made  public.  The  same  sources  of  infor- 
mation are  open  to  all.  The  mining  press  of  the  country,  closely  connected  with 
that  interest,  directly  identified  with  its  progress,  in  daily  and  familiar  contact 
with  its  details,  makes  it  a  special  duty  to  keep  up  the  current  record  of  cost  and 
production,  success  and  failure.  There  may  bo  misstatement  or  exaggeration, 
but  not  more  so  on  the  part  of  the  press,  wliich  is  held  to  a  certain  accounta- 
bility b}'' public  sentiment,  than  on  that  of  individuals  who  may  be  prejudiced  or 
irresponsible.  Statements  publicly  made  and  thoroughly  criticised  are  as  likely 
to  be  correct  as  casual  cxauunations  made  by  jiersons  visiting  a  special  locality, 
Tuifamiliar  with  its  growth  and  progress,  and  comju'lled  after  all  to  dej^ei^d  upon 
infonnation  derived  from  others.  Nevertheless,  it  must  be  admitted  that  there 
are  dilficulties  in  the  way  of  absolute  accuracy. 

Every  miner  naturally  desires  that  his  mine  should  be  carefully  examin(?d 
and  reported  upon  in  detail,  especially  if,  as  in  the  majority  of  cases,  it  be  unpro- 
ductive. Without  reflecting  that  a  nlere  list  of  the  unproductive  mines  would 
fill  a  volume,  tho  miner  is  disjiosed  to  estimate  the  value  of  a  report  by  its  men- 
tion or  omission  of  that  in  which  ho  is  most  interested.  However  disposed  a 
government  agent  may  be  to  meet  the  wishes  of  the  mining  conununity  in  this 
respect,  it  is  equally  important  to  bear  in  mind  that  this  inquiry  is  not  designed 
for  speculative  purposes  or  the  })romotion  of  special  or  individual  interests.  The 
public  desire  reliable  statements,  and  herein  lies  the  difliculty — a  spirit  of  ex- 
aggeration on  the  one  hand,  a  demand  for  facts  ou  the  other.     To  afford  satis- 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  6 

faction  to  all  is  impossible.     I  liavo  tlicreforc  relied  upon  my  own  sense  of 
fairness,  and  endeaA'ored  to  ])resent  the  truth  inipurtially. 

That  errors  may  have  been  eomiiiitted,  and  false  statements  given  by  interested 
parties,  is  probable,  but  prceantion  has  been  taken  to  i^-uard  against  them.  The 
selection  of  assistants"  was  made  with  reference  to  their  integrity  and  capacity. 
Instructions  were  given  to  theni  in  detail,  enjoining  careful  scrutiny  and  verili- 
cation  of  every  statement.  The  revision  of  tlieir  work,  under  these  precautions, 
has  occupied  more  than  four  months.  There  is  no  subject  upon  which  greater 
difl'erenco  of  opinion  exists  than  that  of  mining  statistics.  It  is  an  open  field  in 
which  there  is  room  for  discrepancy  under  any  existing  circumstances.  No  two 
persons  rate  the  product  of  the  precious  metals  alike.  The  superintendent  of  a 
mine  often  furnishes  information  which  when  submitted  to  the  board  of  directors 
is  pronounced  incoiTCct.  llepresentatives  from  the  mining  districts  arc  apt  to 
rate  both  population  and  ])rodacts  higher  than  persons  who  have  made  them 
spec'ial  subjects  of  inquiry,  but  whose  opportunities  for  judging  may  not  bo  so 
favorable. 

A  fruitful  source  of  eiTor  is  in  supposing  that  the  ordinary  channels  of  trans- 
portation cannot  be. relied  upon  as  a  clue  to  the  gross  product  of  the  mines.  It 
is  alleged  that  large  quantities  of  the  precious  metals  are  carried  awa}*  in  the 
pockets  of  the  niiners.  Even  if  this  were  so,  it  is  not  reasonable  to  suppose  that 
the  miners  continue  to  biaxlen  themselves  with  their  treasure  after  aniving  at 
their  place  of  destination.  It  must  lind  its  way  into  the  mint  or  branch  mints 
for  coinage  or  the  custom-house  manifests  for  exportation.  It  cannot  be  assayed 
without  paying  its  internal  revenue  tax.  The  gross  yield  of  all  the  mines  can 
be  determined  with  approximate  accuracy.  It  is  more  difficult  to  arrive  at  a 
subdivision,  when  it  comes  to  the  product  of  each  State  and  Territorj-.  In 
California,  for  example,  during  the  early  days  of  placer  mining,  before  the  trans- 
portation of  bullion  by  organized  companies  had  become  a  business  entitled  to 
eonlidence,  a  large  proportion  of  the  gold  derived  from  the  mines  was  carried 
out  of  the  country  by  private  hands.  There  was  comparatively  little  danger  of 
loss.  The  routes  to  San  Francisco  were  short,  public,  and  protected  by  general 
interest.  From  that  point  to  New  York  the  passengers  usually  combined  for  mutual 
protection,  and  the  risk  was  inconsiderable.  It  was  not  until  the  idle  and  the  prof- 
ligate began  to  obtain  an  ascendency,  the  business  of  transportation  by  express 
more  firmly  established,  ami  the  mines  more  difficult  to  work  with  profit,  that 
the  increase  of  risks  and  reduction- of  charges  resulted  in  the  general  aban- 
donment of  this  system.  It  doubtless  prevails  to  a  limited  extent  now,  but 
the  transportation  of  bullion  by  private  liands  in  California  is  exceptional.  It 
prol)ably  does  not  exceed  seven  per  cent,  in  the  aggregate,  and  this  applies  only 
to  the  routes  by  which  it  reaches  San  Francisco.  In  reference  to  silver  it  is 
impossible  that  any  considerable  amount  can  escape  notice  in  this  wa}'.  The 
yield  of  Nevada  can  be  determined  with  more  accuracy  than  that  of  other  States. 
Silver  predominates  in  the  mines;  and  where  gold  is  obtained  it  is  not  in  an 
inicombincd  form.  When  we  come  to  Montana,  Idaho,  Washington,  and  Oregon 
the  greatest  difficulty  is  experienced. 

Shr[)meuts  of  treasure  from  ]Moutana  and  Idaho  may  become  incorporated  with 
others  before  reaching  their  deslination.  From  ^Montana  most  of  the  bullion 
goes  east.  Two  main  routes  are  open  to  examination — one  by  the  ^lissouri  river, 
the  other  by  Salt  Lake  City.  Indian  disturbances  and  the  insecurity  of  the 
roads  have  during  the  past  year  almost  entirely  closed  the  latter;  so  that  the 
chief  exit  is  by  the  former  route.  Shipments  from  Idaho  are  made  chielly  by 
way  of  Portland  and  the  inland  stage  route  through  Ihunboldt  and  across  the 
Sierra  Nevada.  On  both  of  these  routes  it  is  alleged  that  they  arc  liable  to 
become  merged  with  the  products  of  other  States  and  Territories.  It  has  been 
impossible  to  obtain  an  account  of  the  shipments  from  each  agency  at  the  express 
office  of  Wells,  Fargo  &  Co.,  at  San  Francisco.     For  reasons  of  private  expe- 


6  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

cliency  tboy  refrain  from  giving  the  desired  infomiation.  TVc  have,  however, 
the  aggregate  receipts  at  their  ofHce,  and  knowing  very  nearly  what  amount  can 
fairly  be  credited  to  California,  Nevada,  and  British  Columbia,  can  draw  reason- 
able conclusions  as  to  the  proportion  derived  from  Idaho,  Washington,  and 
Oregon.  From  the  best  infomiation  available  the  following  is  a  near  approxi- 
mation to  the  total  gold  and  silver  product  for  the  year  ending  January  1,  1867  : 

California $25,000,000 

Nevada 20,000,000 

Montana ]2, 000, 000 

Idaho 0,500,000 

Washington ],  000,  000 

Oregon 2,000,000 

Colorado 2,500,000 

New  Mexico 500.000 

Arizona 500,000 

70,  000,  000 
Add  for  bullion  derived  from  unknown  sources  within  our  States  and  TeiTito- 

ries,  unaccounted  for  by  assessors  and  express  companies,  &.c 5, 000, 000 

Total  product  of  the  United  States 75,000,000 


The  bullion  product  of  Washington  is  estimated  by  the  surveyor  general  at 
$1,500,000.  That  of  Oregon  is  rated  as  high  as  $2,500,000.  Intelligent  resi- 
dents of  Idaho  and  Montana  represent  that  the  figures  given  in  the  above  esti- 
mate, so  far  as  these  Temtories  arc  concerned,  are  entirely  too  low,  and  might 
be  doubled  without  exceeding  the  truth.  The  product  of  Idaho  alone  for  this 
year  is  said  to  be  from  $15,000,000  to  618,000,000.  That  of  Montana  is  esti- 
mated by  the  surveyor  general  at  $20,000,000.  Similar  exceptions  are  taken 
to  the  estimates  of  Colorado,  New  Mexico,  and  Arizona.  As  I  have  no  grounds 
for  accepting  these  statements  beyond  the  assertion  that  most  of  the  bullion  is 
can'ied  away  in  the  pockets  of  the  miners,  I  am  inclined  to  rely  upon  the  returns 
of  the  assessors,  express  companies,  and  official  tables  of  export.  Admitting 
that  a  fraction  over  seven  per  cent,  may  have  escaped  notice,  although  reason- 
able allowance  is  made  for  this  in  the  estimate  of  $70,000,000,  and  that  a  con- 
siderable sum  may  be  dei-ived  from  sources  not  enumerated,  I  feel  confident  the 
additional  allowance  of  $5,000,000  is  sufficient  to  cover  the  entire  bullion  pro- 
duct of  the  United  States  for  the  year  1867,  thus  making  the  aggregate  from 
all  sources  $75,000,000,  as  stated  in  the  report  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury. 

I  have  endeavored  to  obtain  returns  of  the  annual  product  of  each  State  and 
Territory  since  1848 ;  but,  for  the  reasons  already  stated,  and  in  the  absence  of 
reliable  statistics,  it  has  been  imj)ossible  to  make  the  necessary  divisions  with 
more  than  approximate  accuracy.  As  nearly  as  I  can  judge  from  the  imperfect 
retinns  available,  the  following,  in  round  numbers,  is  not  far  from  the  total  pro- 
duct: 

California $900,000,000 

Nevada 90,000,000 

Montana 65,000,000 

Idaho 45,000,000 

Washington 10,000,000 

Oregon 20,000,000 

Colorado 25,000,000 

New  Mexico  and  Arizona -  5,000,000 

In  jewelry,  plate,  spoons,  «S:c.,  and  retained  for  circulation  on  Pacific  coast..  45, 000, 000 

1,205,000,000 
Add  for  amounts  buried  or  concealed  and  amounts  from  unenumerated  sources, 
and  of  which  no  account  may  have  been  taken 50,000,000 

1,255,000,000 


WEST    OF   THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  7 

This  statomont  iXHiuircs  oxj)lanution.  Uji  to  1855  a  considorable  i)ortion  of 
the  gold  taken  Jioin  California  was  not  manilestcd.  In  1849  the  actual  viold 
was  probablv  $10,000,000;  in  1850,  $.'35,000,000;  in  1851,  §40,000,000;  in 
1852,  $50,000,000;  in  1853,  $60,000,000;  and  in  1854,  853,000,000.  The 
anionnt  unaccounted  for  by  nianilest  was  not  so  great  after  the  last  date.  In 
1861  Nevada  and  Idaho  eonnnenced  adding  their  treasure  to  the  shipments,  so 
that  after  that  date  a  deduction  for  the  amounts  })roduced  from  these  sources 
would  be  necessary,  if  the  manifest  alone  were  taken  as  a  criterion,  in  order  to 
arrive  at  the  product  of  California, 

An  addition  should  be  made  for  the  amount  retained  for  currency,  estimated 
by  some  as  high  as  $45,000,000,  but  jn-obably  not  exceeding  $35,000,000  or 
840,000,000 ;  and  for  plate,  jewelry,  Sec,  of  California  gold,'  say  82,000,000, 
and  Nevada  silver,  $3,000,000. 

Incorporated  in  these  shipments  are  the  amounts  received  from  Nevada, 
Idaho,  Oregon,  Arizona,  Washington,  and  British  Columbia;  but  these  cannot 
be  deducted  from  the  manifest  of  exports,  according  to  the  express  returns,  since 
the  proportions  arc  not  accm-ately  knowTi  of  the  amounts,  retained  and  shipped, 
derived  from  separate  sources. 

The  general  condition  of  the  mining  interest  on  the  Pacific  slope  is  enconrag- 
ing.  There  have  been  fewer  individual  losses  than  during  past  years,  and  the 
yield  of  the  mines  has  been  comparatively  steady  and  reliable. 

Fluctuations  in  mining  stock  have  not  ])cen  so  great  as  usual,  and  those  wild 
and  injinious  speculations  which  have  impaired  c<jnfidence  in  this  great  interest 
are  gradually  becoming  naiTowed  down  to  individual  operators,  whose  influence 
in  the  community  is  limited. 

Legitimate  mining  has  been  as  prosperous  as  other  pursuits,  though  it  cannot 
be  denied  that  there  are  uncertainties  attached  to  this  peculiar  l)usiness  which 
render  it  hazardous  and  require  more  than  ordinary  profits  to  make  it  remunera- 
tive under  the  most  favorable  circumstances.  It  may  seem  strange  in  this  view 
that  the  gross  product  of  bullion  has  been  gradually  diminishing  for  some  years 
past,  l)ut  a  brief  reference  to  the  history  of  mining  operations  on  the  Pacific 
coast  will  explain  this  apparent  anomaly. 

The  existence  of  gold  in  California  Avas  known  long  before  the  acquisition  of 
that  teiTitory  by  the  United  States.  Placers  had  long  been  Avorked  on  a  limited 
scale  by  the  Indians ;  but  the  priests  Avho  had  estabfishcd  the  missionary  settle- 
ments, knowing  that  a  dissemination  of  the  discoveries  thus  made  would  frus- 
trate their  plans  for  the  conversion  of  the  aboriginal  races,  discouraged  l)y  all 
means  in  their  power  the  prosecution  of  this  pursuit,  and  in  some  instances  sup- 
pressed it  by  force.  As  early  as  December,  1843,  however,  Manuel  Castanai'es, 
a  Mexican  ofHcer,  made  strenuous  efforts  to  arouse  the  attention  of  the  Mexican 
government  to  the  impoilance  of  this  great  interest. 

It  is  not  ray  ])urpose  to  enter  into  a  detail  of  the  events  preceding  the  dis- 
covery by  Marshall  on  the  19th  of  January,  1848,  or  the  subsequent  excitement 
which  resulted  in  the  opening  of  the  great  placer  mines,  and  the  rush  of  immigra- 
tion in  1849.  Itcfercnce  is  made  to  these  incidents  in  the  history  of  California 
merely  to  show  the  changes  in  the  character  of  the  business.  At  first  gold  was 
easily  found,  and  re<iuired  but  little  skill  in  separating  it  from  the  loose  gi'avel 
or  sand  in  which  it  was  imbedded.  Freciuently  it  lay  so  near  the  surface  in  such 
quantities  and  in  grains  of  such  form  and  size,  that  a  simple  pan  or  rocker  com- 
l^rised  all  the  means  necessary,  with  ordinaiy  labor,  to  insure  extraordinary 
profits.  Mere  will  and  muscle  were  sufiicicnt.  Om-  i)cople  were  inexpcnenced, 
but  ingenious  in  devices  for  saving  labor,  energetic  and  industrious. 

Unskilled  as  they  were,  nearly  all  who  went  into  the  business  realized  hand- 
some profits;  and  the  reports  of.  their  success  induced  a  rapid  inunigration  from 
the  Atlantic  States,  South  America,  Australia,  and  other  jiarts  of  the  world. 

Thus  towns  were  built  up ;  a  new  and  extensive  commerce  sprang  into  existence; 


8  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

lands  were  cviltivatecl  to  supply  the  miners;  roads  were  cut  tlirouo-li  tlie  difficult  • 
passes  of  the  mountains;  steamboat  and  stage  lines  were  established;  and  the 
country  from  the  western  slopes  of  the  Siena  Ncvadas  to  the  shores  of  the  Pacific, 
for  many  hundred  miles  north  and  south,  became  suddenly  fdled  with  an  indus- 
trious, intelligent  and  enteqirising  po2)ulation.  Even  in  those  earlj'  days,  how- 
ever, as  tlie  siu-face  jdacers  receded  towards  their  sources,  time  and  money  were 
expended  in  the  rediscovery  of  inventions  which  had  been  known  to  the  old 
world  for  centuries. 

With  all  the  genius  and  enterprise  of  the  American  people,  no  important  dis- 
covery in  the  way  of  machinery  for  mining  was  made  which  had  not  been  long 
in  use  in  South  America,  Mexico,  or  Em'ope.  Tlie  same  necessities  gave  rise  to 
identical  contrivances  for  saving  labor,  and  it  is  sufficient!}"  creditable  to  our 
miners  to  say  that  without  any  knowledge  of  what  others  had  done,  tliey  frequently 
improved  upon  the  original's.  The  fact  demonstrates  very  clearly  that  want  of 
knowledge,  even  in  the  preliminary  stages  of  mining,  is  a  source  of  loss.  When 
the  precious  metals  are  easily  obtained,  and  the  profits  of  individual  labor  are 
large,  less  iujury  'results  from  ignorance  than  in  the  subsequent  stages  of  the 
business,  when  capital  is  required  and  the  process  of  reduction  is  more  complicated. 
Mining  differs  essentially  from  every  other  branch  of  industry.  Unlike  agricul- 
ture, there  is  but  one  crop  in  a  mine.  As  the  work  progresses  the  stock  of  mineral 
is  decreased,  and  can  never  be  replenished  by  any  human  art.  There  is  no 
opportunity  of  recovering  what  has  been  lost  or  wasted. 

The  fanner  changes  his  crop  or  his  system  of  cultivation ;  and  his  land  can  be 
improved  and  his  profits  increased  by  experience.  So  also  in  manufactm-es  and 
other  pursuits.  Hence  it  is  important  that  the  experience  of  mankind  should  be 
preserved  so  that  eiTor  may  be  avoided. 

Comparatively  little  progress  was  made  in  vein  or  quartz  mining  prior  to  1860. 
Quartz  veins  containing  the  precious  metals  were  discovered  in  California  in  1850, 
and  for  several  years  experiments  were  made  in  working  them,  generally  with 
loss.  The  Mexicans  Avitli  their  arastras  Averc  the  only  successful  quartz  miners. 
Experience  in  their  own  country  enabled  them  to  realize  fair  profits  upon  their 
labors.  Their  system  of  mining,  however,  was  too  slow  for  an  American  popu- 
lation, to  whom  large  investments  of  capital  were  of  no  consequence,  provided 
there  was  a  prospect  of  immediate  and  abmidant  returns. 

The  discovery  and  development  of  the  Comstock  lode  in  Nevada  gave  the  first 
impulse  to  this  kind  of  mining.  The  wonderful  richness  of  that  vein  attracted 
attention  at  once,  and  drew  from  all  parts  of  the  world  men  of  scientific  attain- 
ments. By  the  developments  made  in  working  it,  the  principle  was  established 
that  quartz  veins  (^ould  be  rendered  a  prolitalde  source  of  supply  on  the  Pacific 
coast.  The  ex})erience  thus  gained  inq)elled  the  adventurous  miners  of  California 
to  attempt  new  systems,  and  devote  themselves  with  greater  vigor  to  the  opening 
and  working  of  the  gold-bearing  veins  in  that  State. 

In  ISGO  the  i)roduct  from  this  source  in  California  did  not  exceed  85,000,000. 
As  the  surface  diggings  gave  out,  a  resort  to  vein  mining  ])ecame  indispensable. 

The  proportion  of  bullion  now  derived* i'rom  various  sources  within  the  limits 
of  the  State  is  about  as  follows  :  from  smface  diggings,  $2,000,000  ;  from 
cement  or  deep-lying  placers,  $18,000,000;  from  quartz  mines,  $9,000,000 — total, 
$25,000,000. 

I'rofessor  Ashbnruer  estimates  that  about  80  per  cent,  of  the  gold  is  produced 
from  the  nnnes  lying  north  of  the  Mokelumnc.  The  production  of  the  southern 
mines  is  diminishing  every  year,  and  the  surface  diggings  will  soon  be  exhausted. 
Wherever  the  latter  predominated  a  sudden  but  ei)hemeral  i)rosperity  was 
engendered.  General  stagnation  now  prevails;  towns  are  dejiopulated;  real 
estate  is  of  little  value;  business  is  depressed.  The  population  consists  of 
hundreds  in  many  counties  where  it  formerly  consisted  of  thousands.  Ref- 
erence to  the  accompanying  reports  will  show  the  present  condition  of  these 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  9 

localities.  Good  quartz  veins  exist  in  many  of  tlicm,  but  the  want  of  capital 
has  retarded  their  development.  Unskilled  labor  can  make  no  further  progress, 
and  new  lields  of  enterprise  have  been  sought  by  those  who  formerly  depended 
npon  the  placers.  Some  liave  pushed  their  way  over  the  mountains  into  Idaho, 
3lontana,  and  other  new  Territories;  others  have  given  up  mining  and  devoted 
themselves  to  farming,  trade,  or  commerce. 

Similar  changes  have  been  experienced  in  Idaho,  Montana,  and  other  Terri- 
tories in  which  surface  mining  attracted  a  population.  At  first  the  yield  was 
large  and  easily  obtained ;  as  the  surface  deposits  were  worked  up  to  their  sources 
quartz  veins  were  discovered,  and  machinery  and  skill  became  recjuisite ;  the 
difficulty  of  access  to  the  more  remote  mineral  regions  increased  the  expense  of 
transportation,  and  the  uncertainty  of  remunerative  results  impaired  confidence. 
History  shows  that  these  changes  occur  in  all  mining  countries  and  are  insepa- 
rable from  this  branch  of  industry. 

No  uneasiness  need  bo  felt  as  to  a  decrease  in  the  source  of  supply.  After 
many  years  of  travel  over  the  mining  regions,  I  feel  justified  in  asserting  that 
our  mineral  resources  are  practically  without  limit.  Explorations  made  by  com- 
petent parties  daring  the  past  year  in  many  parts  of  the  mineral  region  hitherto 
unknown  demonstrate  the  fact  that  the  area  of  the  mineral  deposit  is  much  larger 
than  was  ever  before  supposed.  It  is  safe  to  assume  that  of  the  claims  already 
recorded  in  the  settled  parts  of  the  country,  and  known  to  be  valuable,  not  more 
than  one  in  a  hundred  is  being  worked;  and  of  those  worked  perhaps  not  more 
than  one  in  fifty  pays  anything  over  expenses,  owing  to  mismanagement,  ineffi- 
cient systems  of  reducing  the  ores,  want  of  capital,  cost  of  transportation,  and 
other  causes  susceptible  of  remedy.  In  many  districts  of  Nevada  silver  ores  of 
less  value  than  SI 00  n  ton  cannot  be  worked  by  mill  process  so  as  to  pay 
expenses;  and  there  are  districts  in  Idaho  and  Montana  where  gold-bearing  ores 
will  not  justify  working  unless  they  yield  from  840  to  $50  per  ton. 

With  such  wealth  of  treasm'e  lying  dormant,  it  cannot  be  doubted  that,  by  the 
increased  facilities  for  transportation  and  access  to  the  mines  soon  to  be  furnished 
by  the  Pacific  railroad  and  its  proposed  branches,  and  the  experience  in  the  treat- 
ment of  ores,  and  the  scientific  knowledge  to  be  acquired  in  a  national  school  of 
mines  adequate  to  the  necessities  of  the  mining  population,  the  yield  must  eventu- 
ally increase. 

The  adventiu'ous  Americans  who  take  the  lead  in  the  development  of  these 
frontier  regions  are  generally  energetic  and  intelligent,  but  prone  to  extravagance 
and  reckless  speculations. 

No  country  in  the  world  can  show  such  wasteful  systems  of  mining  as  prevail 
in  ours.  At  a  moderate  calculation,  there  has  been  an  unnecessary  loss  of  pre- 
cious metals  since  the  (hscovcry  of  our  mines  of  more  than  8-300,000,000,  scarcely 
a  fraction  of  which  can  ever  be  recovered.  This  is  a  serious  consideration.  The 
question  arises  whether  it  is  not  the  duty  of  government  to  prevent,  as  far  as  may 
be  consistent  with  individual  rights,  this  waste  of  a  common  heritage,  in  which 
not  only  ourselves  but  our  posterity  are  interested. 

The  miner  has  a  right  to  the  product  ■of  his  labor,  but  has  he  a  right  to  deprive 
others  of  the  benefits  to  l)e  derived  from  the  treasures  of  the  earth,  placed  there 
for  the  common  good '?  The  precious  metals  are  of  an  imperishable  nature,  evi- 
dently designed  to  pass  beyond  the  reach  of  the  discoverer  and  to  subserve  pm*- 
poses  of  human  convenience  for  generations.  Our  children  have  an  interest  in 
tlicm  which  we  cannot  with  propriety  disregard. 

The  bill  to  establish  a  national  school  of  mines,  introduced  in  the  Senate,  at 
the  beginning  of  the  present  session  of  Congress,  by  Mr.  Stewart  of  Nevada,  is 
designed  to  remedy  this  evil.  Similar  schools  have  been  established  in  various 
pai-ts  of  Europe,  and  the  best  evidence  of  their  utility  is  tlie  fact  that  wo  are 
indebted  to  them  for  nearly  all  the  knowledge  we  possess  on  the  subject  of 
mining  and  metallurgy.     Our  mines  and  mills  are  practically  managed  by  foreign 


10  RESOURCES   OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

experts ;  wc  furnish  tlie  labor  and  mechanical  ingenuity,  but  they  furnish  the 
scientiiic  skill.  Without  the  aid  of  foreign  institutions  we  could  have  made  but 
little  progress  in  mining;  and  yet  we  lose  much  by  not  having  similar  institu- 
tions in  our  own  country.  The  local  circumstances  existing  in  Europe  dificr 
essentially  from  those  which  prevail  in  the  United  States,  It  would  be  a  great 
advantage,  not  only  in  the  saving  of  expense,  but  in  the  more  direct  availability 
of  the  experience  gained,  if  our  young  men  could  learn  at  home  what  they  are 
now  compelled  to  leara  abroad. 

The  plan  proposed  by  Mr.  Stewart's  bill  seems  both  feasible  and  economical. 
Such  an  institution  Avould,  if  properly  conducted,  lesult  in  a  large  annual  increase 
in  our  bullion  product.  It  is  not  unreasonable  to  anticipate  that,  instead  of 
declining  within  a  few  years  to  forty  or  fifty  millions  per  annum,  as  Avill  undoubt- 
edly be  the  case  if  the  present  state  of  things  continues,  there  would  be  an 
increase  amounting  to  at  least  100  per  cent,  on  the  vield  of  the  mines  for  the 
past  year.  I  venture  the  hope,  therefore,  that  Congress  will  take  this  propo- 
sition into  fiivorable  consideration.  The  bill,  as  amended  by  the  Committee  on 
Mines  and  ]\Iining,  of  the  Senate,  and  the  considerations  upon  Avhich  it  is  based 
will  be  found  in  the  appendix,  (A.) 

It  is  proper  that  I  should  give  duo  credit  to  my  assistants  for  the  part  which 
they  have  taken  in  this  work.  The  duty  of  collecting  statistics  in  CalifoiTua 
was  intrusted  to  Mr.  John  S.  Ilittell,  the  able  and  experienced  author  of  several 
valuable  works  on  the  industrial  resources  of  that  State.  In  the  performance  of 
the  special  service  assigned  to  him  he  visited  the  principal  mining  disti'icts.  His 
reports  are  based  upon  actual  observation,  and  may  be  relied  upon  as  accurate 
and  impartial.  With  the  exception  of  the  report  on  Nevada  county,  by  Mr.  E.  F. 
Bean,  the  county  assessor,  and  Mr.  11.  Rolfe,  his  assistant,  and  the  brief  report.s 
on  some  of  the  northern  and  southern  counties  by  Dr.  Henry  Dcgroot,  with 
a  sketch  of  the  JMomss  Ravine  mines  l)y  Dr.  A.  Blatchley,  nearly  all  the  gold- 
bearing  regions  of  California  arc  described  by  Mr.  Ilittell.  Important  papers 
on  the  condition  of  the  mining  interest  in  Mexic-o,  South  America,  Australia,  &c., 
are  also  furnished  l)y  the  same  authority. 

An  elaborate  and  interesting  report  on  the  miscellaneous!  minerals  of  the  Pacific 
States  and  Tenltories  is  furnished  by  IMr.  Henry  C.  Bennet,  a  mining  engineer 
familiar  with  the  subject.  No  such  complete  and  extended  notice  of  the  miscel- 
laneous mineral  productions  of  the  Pacific  coast  has  yet  been  published.  This 
report  will  be  found  valuable  to  business  men,  and  to  all  others  seeking  informa- 
tion respecting  the  resources  of  the  States  and  Territories  west  of  the  Rocky 
mountains. 

To  ]\Ir.  It.  II.  Stretch,  late  State  mineralogist  of  Nevada,  the  Comstock  lode 
and  regions  adjacent  were  intrusted.  His  scientific  and  practical  knowledge  of 
the  various  departments  of  mining,  his  long  experience  in  this  particular  region, 
and  his  known  integrity,  rendered  the  selection  peculiarly  fortunate,  as  Avill  bo 
conceded  upon  a  perusal  of  his  report. 

Dr.  Henry  Degroot,  a  statistician  and  writer,  whom  I  deputed  to  travel  through 
Nevada,  has  furnished  a  series  of  interesting  papers  on  the  miscellaneous  resources 
of  that  State. 

Mr.  IMyron  Angel,  of  Austin,  a  gentleman  well  acquainted  with  eastern 
Nevada,  contributes  a  report  on  that  region,  from  which  it  will  be  seen  that  the 
mineral  wealth  of  Nevada  is  by  no  means  confined  to  the  Comstock  lode. 

The  services  of  Dr.  A.  Blatcldey,  a  nfineralogist  and  raining  engineer,  were 
secured  for  an  exploration  of  Montana  and  Idaho.  This  gentleman  travelled 
throu"-h  those  Territories  din-ing  the  months  of  June,  July,  and  August,  and  was 
cna])led  to  collect  the  information  which  is  embodied  in  his  reports. 

Mr.  Elwood  Evans,  of  Olympia,  formerly  territorial  secretary  of  Washington, 
lias  lundly  furnished  detailed  reports  on  tho  reaoiu'ces  of  that  Territory. 


^mm^^ 


WEST    OF   THE    KOCKY   MOUNTAINS.  11 

To  Mr.  Ainswortli,  'Mr.  Hill,  j\[r.  L.idcl,  and  others,  I  am  indebted  for  infomia- 
tion  relative  to  the  trade  and  resources  of  Orei;\)n. 

The  report  on  Arizona  is  from  the  pen  of  Governor  It.  C.  ]\IcCormick.  It 
■will  be  found  extremely  interest ini^. 

Mv.  "W.  ^I.  Gabb,  of  the  State  jxeological  snn'ey  of  California,  ^vhose  recent 
expedition  throuijh  Lower  California  has  attracted  considerable  attention,  con- 
tributes a  detailed  report  on  tlu;  mineral  resources  of  that  peninsula.  It  is  the 
result  of  the  first  scientific  exploration  ever  made  of  that  rec^iou,  and  possesses 
a  peculiar  interest  at  this  time,  owing  to  the  investment  of  American  capital 
there  and  the  purchase  from  the  Mexican  government  of  an  extensive  grant  by 
jirivate  parties  for  colonizaticui  by  Americans. 

jMany  other  prominent  and  experienced  gentlemen  have  assisted  mo  in  the 
preparation  of  this  report.  I  claim  little  more  for  myself  than  the  direction  and 
supervision  of  the  work ;  it  has  occupied  my  entire  time  for  upwards  of  a  year, 
and,  Avhatcver  may  be  its  imperfections,  few  will  be  disposed  to  deny  that  it  pre- 
sents evidence  of  an  earnest  attempt  to  carry  into  effect  the  wishes  of  the  de- 
partment and  the  objects  designed  to  be  accomplished  by  Congress. 

It  is  a  common  en-or  to  suppose  that  mining  is  inimical  to  the  welfare  of  the 
people.  Xo  branch  of  industiy  requiring  mechanical  skill  and  the  acquisition 
of  scientific  knowledge  can  justly  be  said  to  contain  in  itself  elements  injurious 
to  public  morals  or  to  the  prosperity  of  the  state. 

The  tendency  of  this  pursuit  is,  at  first,  to  attract  a  reckless  and  adventiu'ous 
population,  whose  disregard  of  conventional  restraint  leads  to  the  assumption 
of  risks  and  to  bold  and  hazardous  undertakings,  by  which  new  countries  are 
most  rapidly  opened  up  to  settlement  and  civilization.  Providence  so  ordains 
it  that  the  superficial  treasures  of  the  earth  designed  to  attract  this  enterprising 
c.iass  soon  disappear,  and  a  higher  order  of  intelligence  is  required  and  a  more 
pennanent  condition  of  things  is  established.  It  is  only  necessary  to  look  back 
over  the  past  eighteen  years  to  find  in  the  advancement  of  the  vast  region  known 
as  the  Pacific  slope,  the  strongest  possible  refutation  of  the  assertion  that  mining 
is  inimical  to  the  welfare  of  the  people.  Looking  forward  to  the  future,  who 
can  predict  the  high  condition  of  prosperity  likely  to  be  attained  by  these  new 
States  and  Territories  eighteen  years  hence? — A^ith  trans-continental  railroads 
and  telegraph  lines  binding  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific ;  with  branch  roads  and 
lines  traversing  the  country  north  and  south  ;  with  the  commerce  of  Asia  pouring 
its  treasures  into  our  seaport's ;  with  an  export  trade  commanding  the  whole 
eastern  world ;  with  a  probable  coast  line  stretching  from  Behring  Straits  to 
Capo  St.  Lucas  ;  with  innumerable  flourishing  cities  and  seaport  towns ;  with  an 
agricultural  population  numbering  thousands  Avhcrc  they  now  number  hundreds  ; 
with  busy  manufactories  scatt?ered  over  the  land;  with  churches,  schools,  and 
colleges  evcr3'where  throughout  the  moimtains  and  valleys — All  these  many  of 
us  may  live  to  see,  but  few  can  now  realize  the  magnificent  future  that  lies  before 
us.  In  this  favored  land  the  laborer,  the  artisan,  the  mechanic,  the  man  of 
science,  can  each  find  profitable  employment  and  a  congenial  home.  As  wo 
want  population  to  develop  the  dormant  wealth  of  our  new  States  and  Temto- 
rics,  it  is  the  interest  of  our  government  to  disseminate  a  coiToet  knowledge  of 
their  material  resoiu'ccs. 

Entertaining  these  views,  I  trast  the  rq:)ort  herewith  sttbmitted  will  not  bo 
without  practical  utiUty  wherever  it  may  be  circulated. 
Verv  respectfullv,  vom*  obedient  servant, 

J.  EOSS  BROWNE. 

Hon.  n.  McCuLLOcn, 

Secretary  of  the  Treasury. 


12  RESOUECES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 


CALIFORNIA. 

SECTION    I. 

GENERAL  CONDITION  OF  THE  MINING  INTEREST. 

Tlie  information  and  statistics  relative  to  the  gold  mines  of  California  were 
collected  between  tlie  ITtli  May  and  the  25tli  July,  but  some  interesting  changes 
have  occmTed  since  the  tour  of  inquiry  was  made,  and  the  facts,  when  ascertained, 
have  been  mentioned.  IMany  of  the  figures  and  data  could  be  obtained  only 
from  the  mine  ovvuers,  who  may  sometimes  have  misrepresented  the  character 
and  yield  of  their  claims  in  a  favorable  light  for  the  purpose  of  selling,* or  in  an 
unfavorable  light  for  the  pui-posc  of  misleading  the  assessor  and  tax-collector. 
It  is  believed,  however,  that  the  statements  as  made  are  generally  tnie,  and 
it  is  hoped  that,  taken  together,  they  will  be  found  to  be  the  fullest  and  most 
coiTCct  collection  of  important  facts  ever  made  relative  to  gold  mining. 

The  general  condition  of  gold  mining  in  California  is  tliat  of  decline.  The 
amount  of  production  becomes  smaller  every  year,  but  the  decrease  is  confined 
chiefly  to  the  placer  yield.  In  quartz  more  work  is  being  done  ;  it  is  being  done 
better  than  ever  before,  and  there  are  more  mines  in  successful  operation.  The 
business  is  flourishing  and  improving,  with  a  fair  prospect  of  continuous  increase ; 
and  the  Success  of  many  of  the  mines  is  most  brilliant. 

In  1864  Professor  Ashburner  wrote  a  report  on  the  JMariposa  estate,  and  in  it 
he  made  the  following  general  remarks  : 

In  1858  there  were  upwards  of  280  quartz  mills  in  California,  each  one  of  which  was  sup- 
plied with  quartz  from  one  or  more  veins.  The  number  of  stamps  in  these  mills  was  2,610, 
and  the  total  cost  of  the  whole  mill  property  of  this  nature  in  the  State  exceeded  $3,000,000. 
In  the  summer  of  1861,  while  I  was  attached  to  the  jreological  survey,  I  made  a  careful  and 
thorough  examination  of  all  the  quartz  mills  and  mines  of  the  State,  and  could  only  find 
between  40  and  JjO  in  successful  operation,  several  of  which  were  at  that  time  leading  a  very 
precarious  existence. 

Many  of  those  old  enterprises  have  not  yet  become,  and  never  will  become, 
profital)le ;  but  of  the  quartz  "mills  built  within  the  last  four  or  five  years,  the 
successful  proportion  is  much  larger  than  before  1860.  No  business  offers  greater 
facilities  to  ignorance  and  folly  for  losing  money ;  and,  unfortunately,  most  of 
those  who  engaged  in  it  had  no  experience  and  were  led  by  their  presumption 
into  gross  blunders  in  both  mining  and  milling. 

The  greatest  common  blunder  in  quartz  mining,  and  the  most  common  eiTor 
in  early  times  as  well  as  in  our  own  day,  has  been  that  of  erecting  a  mill  before 
the  vein  was  well  ojjened  and  its  capacity  to  j-ield  a  largo  suppl}'  of  good  rock 
established.  Tlie  commission  of  this  blunder  is  proof  conclusive  of  the  utter 
incompetency  of  its  author  to  have  charge  of  aii}'^  important  mining  enterprise. 
If  there  were  au}'^  possibility  that  it  should  in  some  cases  lead  to  considerable 
profit,  there  might  be  an  excuse  for  it,  but  there  is  none.  It  never  pays.  All 
the  chances,  including  tliat  of  utter  failure,  are  against  it. 

The  next  blunder  was  that  the  dillercnce  between  a  i)ocket  vein  and  a  charge 
vein  was  not  understood,  and  the  existence  of  rich  s})ecimens  was  considered 
proof  of  the  high  value  of  a  mine,  whereas  among  experienced  (juartz  miners  it 
excites  their  susjjicions  and  distrust.  Nine-tenths  of  the  hxles  which  yield  rich 
specimens  do  not  pay  for  nulling.  West  Point,  in  Calaveras,  and  Bald  Moun- 
tain, in  Tuolumne,  the  richest  jiockct  districts  of  the  State,  arc  not  to  bo  com- 
pared for  yield  with  Sutter  creek  or  the  Sierra  Uuttes,  where  there  is  scarcely  a 
passable  si)ecimen  in  a  thousand  tons. 

The  next  error  was  that  nothing  was  known  of  pay  chimneys,  and  if  good 
quartz  was  found  in  one  place,  it  was  presumed  that  the  whole  mine  "was  of  the 
same  quality.     In  some  cases  the  pay  chimney  was  neai-  the  end  of  a  claim,  into 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  13 

■vvliioli  it  (li]iped  nut  far  from  the  surface,  leaving-  the  mill  without  roclv.  In 
other  cases  the  miner  had  his  pay  chimney  in  his  own  claim,  but  ho  did  not  know 
enoug'h  to  follow  it,  and  he  worked  strai^'lit  down  into  barren  rock,  while  there 
was  an  abundant  supply  of  g^ood  quartz  hi-j^her  up. 

Another  error  was  that  of  sinkim^  when  nothint^  was  found  at  the  surface;  a 
])olicy  that  may  do  in  mining'  for  other  metals,  but  is  very  risky  in  gold.  If  tlio 
croppings  are  barren  along  a  considerable  distance,  deep  sinkings  will  rarely  i>ay ; 
but  if  the  vein  does  not  crop  out,  the  only  way  to-cxamine  it  may  bo  by  a  slial't. 

Much  rock  has  been  crushed  without  examination  and  without  any  proper 
selection. 

In  the  mortars  it  is  a  common  mistake  to  nse  too  much  quicksilver  and  too 
much  water. 

It  has  not  been  customary  to  make  assays  regularly  of  the  tailings,  so  as  to 
know  what  was  passinj;^  off. 

The  mine  o\\'ners,  in  a  largo  proportion  of  the  cases,  have  not  resided  at  the 
mines,  and  have  not  made  a  study  of  the  business ;  and  no  occupation  requii'es 
personal  supervision  and  thorough  knowledge  on  the  part  of  the  owner  more  than 
mining'. 

These  blunders  are  gradually  being  corrected,  and  if  they  were  not  still  quite 
common  the  quartz  mines  of  California  would  yield  nearly  twice  as  much  as  they 
do.  The  business  will  never  be  established  upon  a  proper  basis  until  the  super- 
intendents as  a  class  are  well-educated  chemists  and  mining  and  mechanical  engi- 
neers, and  the  mine  o^Miers  frequent  visitors,  if  not  regular  residents,  at  the  mines. 

In  placer  mining  there  is  not  room  for  much  improvement.  All  the  processes 
are  simpler,  and  the  work  has  generally  been  done  well. 

The  southern  mines — that  is,  in  the  counties  of  Amador,  Calaveras,  Tuolumne, 
and  Mariposa — have  nearly  exhausted  their  placers.  They  had  few  deep  gravel 
dejiosits,  and  in  all  four  tlierc  has  not  been  one  large  hydraulic  claim  such  as 
abound  north  of  El  Dorado.  Placer,  Ynba,  Nevada,  Sierra,  and  Plumas  are  more 
prosperous  than  the  counties  further  south,  mainly  because  of  their  extensive  beds 
of  am-iferous  gi'avel  more  than  a  hundred  feet  deep. 

The  Act  of  July  26, 1S6G. — Pew  applications  have  been  made  for  the  pur- 
chase of  quartz  mines  or  of  agricultural  lands  in  the  mineral  districts,  under  the 
act  of  July  26, 18G6,  ''granting  the  right  of  way  to  ditch  and  canal  owners  over 
the  public  lands,  and  for  other  purposes." 

The  farmers  of  the  mining  districts  have  long  been  anxious  to  get  titles,  but 
the  value  of  their  possessions  has  decreased  considerably  of  late,  and  many  of 
them  do  not  feel  able  to  pay  for  the  expense  of  a  survey.  They  are  required  to 
])ay  not  the  siu'vey  of  their  respective  farms  alone,  but  for  the  survey  of  all  the 
agricultural  land  in  the  Avhole  township  in  which  they  are  situated,  and  ii>  some 
cases  this  expense  may  be  8400,  If  several  luiite,  the  cost  is  less  to  each ;  but 
the  whole  expense  comes  upon  the  first  application,  whether  made  by  one  or 
many.  After  the  survey  has  once  been  made,  applicants  have  no  expense  save 
the  price  of  the  land  and  a  few  small  incidentals.  Previous  to  the  first  of  June 
twenty-live  farmers  in  Tuolumne  and  Stanislaus  counties  had  expressed  a  desire 
to  get  patents,  and  all  would  undoubtedly  have  taken  them  if  the  survey  had 
not  stood  hi  the  way.  The  public  sentiment  of  the  State  is  unanimously  in  favor 
of  the  sale  of  these  agricultural  lands. 

The  surveys  of  quartz  mines  are  not  so  expensive  as  those  of  agricultural 
claims,  because  it  is  not  necessary  to  survey  the  whole  townshi])  for  a  mine  claim, 
but  only  to  connect  it  with  the  public  sitn-eys  by  some  one  line,  so  that  it  can 
be  laid  down  accurately  upon  the  map.  Tiic  expense  depends  iq)on  circum- 
stances, but  it  will  seldom  exceed  8100  for  every  step  from  the  beginning  until 
the  issue  of  the  patent,  exclusive  of  the  time  and  travel  of  the  sun'cyor  in  getting 
to  the  place  where  the  mine  is  situated. 

The  owners  of  (piartz  mines  generally  desire  to  get  patents,  but  the  fact  that 


14  EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

tbe  claims  on  public  lands  are  not  taxed,  and  that  those  which  have  been  granted 
by  the  government  arc  taxed,  is  a  strong-  objection.  The  tax  in  the  mining 
counties  varies  from  three  to  Ibm-  and  a  half  per  cent,  annually,  and  that  is  a 
serious  consideration  with.  many. 

The  revenue  law  of  California  saj's  : 

All  property,  of  every  kind  and  nature  whatever,  within  this  State  shall  be  subject  to  tax- 
ation, except     *     *     *     mining  claims.     {HUtcll's  General  Laws,  article  Q2\)S.) 

A  supplementary  act  says  : 

All  provisions  of  law  exempting  mining  claims  from  taxation  are  hereby  repealed  so  far  as 
they  applj'  to  lands  or  mines  in  the  condition  of  private  property,  and  granted  as  such  by  the 
Spanish  or  Jlexican  government,  or  the  government  of  the  United  States,  or  of  this  State. 
(  The  same,  article  6:265.     Instructions  under  the  act  of  July  20,  183G.) 

The  instructions  issued  b}^  the  Commissioner  of  the  General  Land  Office  to  the 
survej'or  general  of  California,  and  by  him  to  his  deputies,  are  worthy  of  being 
placed  within  their  reach,  and  will  be  found  in  the  appendix. 

Surveys. — Up  to  the  10th  of  October,  1SG7,  eleven  sun'-cys,  made  under 
applications  for  patents  of  lode  mines,  have  been  received  at  the  United  States 
siu'vcyor  general's  office  in  San  Francisco.  These  eleven  are  the  Pcuon  Blanco, 
Virginia,  Jones,  Potts,  and  Oakes  &  Reese,  (these  two  last  adjoin,  and  may  be 
considered  as  parts  of  the  same  mine,  though  on  different  veins,)  in  Mariposa 
county ;  the  Trio,  McCann,  Arbona,  Hitchcock,  and  Crey  Eagle,  in  Tuolumne 
county  ;  a  nd  the  Kelsey ,  in  Eldorado  count3'.  Applications  for  surveys  for  patents 
have  been  made  in  many  other  cases,  probably  fifty,  at  least,  and  notices  of  the 
applications  have  been  advertised  in  the  newspapers  in  the  mining  counties,  but 
the  siu'veys  have  not  yet  reached  the  surve3-or  general. 

The  State  has  been  divided  into  nine  districts,  with  a  deputy  surveyor  in  each. 
The  following  are  the  districts : 

Pirst  district. — Del  Norte,  Klamath,  and  Humboldt  counties. 

Second  district. — Siski3^on,  Shasta,  and  Tnnity  counties. 

Third  district. — Plumas,  Butte,  and  SieiTa. 

Fourth  district. — Yuba  and  Nevada. 

Fifth  district. — Placer,  El  Dorado,  and  Sacramento. 

Sixtlb  district. — Amador.  ^ 

Seventh  district. — Alpine,  Mono,  and  Inyo. 

Eighth  district. — Tuolumne,  Mariposa,  Stanislaus,  Merced,  Fresno,  and  Cala- 
veras. 

Ninth  district. — Los  Angeles,  San  Bernardino,  Kern,  San  Diego,  and  Tulare. 


SECTIONII. 

THE  MOTHER  LODE. 

The  mother  lode  is  in  many  respects  the  most  remarkable  metalliferous  vein  in 
the  world.  Others  have  produced  and  are  producing  more,  but  no  other  has  been 
traced  so  far,  has  so  many  peculiar  features,  has  exercised  so  nuich  influence  on 
the  topography  of  the  country  about  it,  or  has  been  worked  witli  a  profit  in  so 
many  places.  The  great  argentilerous  lodes  of  JMexico  and  South  America,  the 
most  productive  of  precious  metal  of  all  known  in  history,  can  be  followed  not 
more  than  six  or  eight  miles ;  while  this  Californian  vein  is  distinctly  traceable 
on  the  surface  from  Mariposa  to  the  town  of  Amador,  a  distance  of  more  than 
60  miles. 

Course  a:xd  Dip. — The  general  course  of  the  vein  is  very  nearlvnorthwestand 
southeast,  but  to  be  more  precise  it  is  north  40°  west.     If  a  straight  line  be  drawn 


WEST   OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  15 

on  the  map  from  ]\[aviposa  to  Amador,  tlie  motlicr  lode  will  he  in  several  places 
two  or  three  miles  distant  from  the  line,  l)ut  nsiially  within  hall"  a  mile  of  it. 

The  dip  is  always  to  the  eastward,  and  usually  at  an  angle  of  4o°  or  50°  to 
the  liorizon. 

CiiAKACTER  OF  THE  GoLD. — The  gold  is  generally  in  tine  particles,  and  is  dis- 
tributed evenly  through  a  large  portion  t)f'  the  lode  in  the  pay  chimneys,  and 
there  is  very  little  of  the  rock  entirely  without  gold.  Tlie  sniphurets  are  not  very 
abundant  nor  very  rich,  and  when  found  they  consist  almost  exclusively  of 
pyrites  of  iron  and  copjter,  without  those  mixtures  of  lead,  arsenic,  antimony, 
and  zinc  which  interfere  with  amalgamation  seriously  in  some  other  lodes.  The 
quartz  of  the  mother  lode  is  usually  hard  and  white ;  and  in  most  of  the  pay 
chutes  near  one  wall  or  the  other,  ribbon  rocli,  or  rock  w'itli  numerous  black  seams 
lying  parallel  with  the  wall,  is  found.  In  some  mines,  especially  at  the  Raw 
Hide,  the  quartz  is  colored  green  with  carbonate  of  copper ;  and  the  same  color, 
though  not  so  strong,  is  obsei"ved  in  portions  of  the  Princeton  mine. 

"Width. — The  width  varies  from  a  foot  to  thirty  feet;  that  is,  the  main  vein  as 
worked ;  but  it  is  accompanied  by  branches  or  companion  veins,  so  that  the  total 
width  of  vein  matter  is  sometimes  nearly  a  hundred  feet.  In  some  places  these 
side  veins  are  known  to  be  branches  separitted  at  the  surface  from  the  main  vein 
by  "  horses ;"  in  others  they  are  different  in  material  and  do  not  unite  at  the  deepest 
workings.  The  most  remarkable  side  veins  are  those  of  talcosc  slate,  which  in 
some  places  can  be  traced  for  miles.  They  are  from  two  to  twenty  feet  wide,  and 
are  rich  in  gold.  We  do  not  find,  in  our  books,  mention  of  any  similar  auriferous 
deposit  in  other  countries ;  but  in  California  a  number  of  them  have  been  found, 
remote  from  the  mother  lode  as  well  as  near  it. 

8outh  of  JMaxwell'S  creek  is  a  parallel  talcose  vein,  on  the  west  side  of  the 
main  mother  lode,  known  as  the  Adelaide,  which  name  was  given  to  it  by  Mr. 
J.  l'\  Johnson.  The  same  name  has  been  given  by  mistake  in  Tuolumne  county 
to  a  companion  talcose  vein  on  the  east  side  of  the  main  lode.  There  is  no 
reason  that  the  two  are  the  same  vein,  or  for  extending  the  name  of  one  to  the 
other. 

Pay  Chimneys. — The  pay  chimneys  are  usually  large  and  regular,  and  are 
either  vertical  or  have  a  slight  dip  to  the  north. 

In  the  companion  talcose  veins  the  pay  chimneys  are  not  distinctly  marked, 
nor  are  the  character  and  limit  of  the  lode  well  defined. 

IIiLLS  AND  Hollows. — The  streams  seem  to  have  made  their  beds  in  places 
where  the  mother  lode  is  split  up  into  a  numl)er  of  branches,  as  at  the  ]\Iercede, 
^laxwell's  creek,  Tuolumne,  Stanislaus,  and  Mokelnmne  rivers;  while  in  those 
places  where  the  lode  is  wide  and  solid  there  are  high  hills,  as  at  Penon  Blanco, 
Pine  Tree,  Whiskey  Hill,  Quartz  Mountain,  and  Carson  Hill.  The  richest  part  of 
the  vein  was  on  the  top  of  Carson  Hill,  and  next  to  that  in  richness  was  Pine 
Tree  Hill.  Tlu^  Hay  ward,  the  Oneida,  and  the  Keystone  are  in  valleys.  The 
Golden  Itule  and  the  mines  at  Angels  are  neither  on  hill  nor  in  hollow,  and  are 
yet  very  rich. 

No  other  class  of  quartz  mines  in  California  is  so  poor  in  specimens  as  those 
on  the  motlier  lode,  nor,  with  two  or  three  exceptions,  are  there  any  others  in 
which  the  gold  is  so  regularly  distributed  through  the  })a}'  chutes. 

Peculiarities  of  the  Lode. — The  chief  peculiarities  of  the  mother  lode  are 
its  gi"eat  length,  its  great  thickness,  its  uniform  character,  the  near  proximity  of 
large  companion  veins,  of  which  at  least  one  is  usually  talcose,  and  the  richness 
of  the  talcose  veins.  In  reply  to  questions  al)Out  the  chief  distinguishing  fea- 
ture of  the  mother  lode,  the  miners  engaged  in  working  various  mines  gave  very 
dillerent  answers.  One  said  it  was  the  presence  of  a  l)elt  of  green  stone  on  the 
eastern  side.  Another  thought  it  was  a  black  putty  gouge.  A  third  spoke  first 
of  the  occiuTence  of  places  as  smooth  as  glass  on  the  walls.  Another  consid- 
ered tite  motlier  lode  to  consist  of  two  branches,  one  the  luminated,  the  other  the 


''^. 


16  RESOURCES   OF   STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

boulder  branch.  The  former  is  usually  on  the  west  side ;  the  latter  has  the  most 
curves.  The  lode  is  richest  where  the  two  meet.  Another  says  the  mother  lode 
is  a  series  of  branches,  sometimes  a  dozen  in  number,  covering  a  width  that 
varies  from  500  to  3,000  feet,  with  a  greenstone  porphyry  wall  on  the  east,  and 
dioritic  porphyr}-  wall  on  the  west. 

Is  IT  A  Fissure  Veix  ? — The  question  whether  the  mother  lode  is  a  gash  or  a 
fissure  vein  lias  little  practical  importance.  Such  an  inquiry  is  serviceable  in  regard 
to  deposits  the  character  of  which  is  doubtful ;  but  we  already  know  that  in  regard 
to  length,  uniformity  of  veinstone,  continuity  in  depth,  and  number  of  pay  chutes, 
few  fissure  veins  exceed  this.  Professor  Ashburner,  in  a  report  made  on  the  Pine 
Tree  and  Josephine  mines,  in  May,  1864,  expressed  an  opinion  that  the  ''great 
majority "  of  the  auriferous  quartz  lodes  of  California  are  gash  veins ;  and  he 
implies  that  the  Pine  Tree,  which  is  a  part  of  the  mother  lode,  belongs  to  that 
class.     Whitney,  in  his  '^Metallic  Wealth  of  the  United  States,"  says : 

Trae  fissure  veins  are  continuous  in  depth,  and  their  metalliferous  contents  have  not  been 
found  to  be  exhausted  or  to  have  sensibly  and  permanently  decreased  at  any  depth  which 
has  yet  been  obtained  by  mininfj. 

Segregated  and  gash  veins,  and  the  irregular  deposits  of  ore  not  included  under  the  head 
of  veins,  and  not  occurring  in  masses  as  part  of  the  formation,  cannot  be  depended  upon  as 
persistent,  and  they  generally  thin  out  and  disappear  at  a  not  inconsiderable  depth;  at  the 
same  time  they  are  olten  richer  for  a  certain  distance,  and  contain  larger  accumulations  of 
ore  than  true  veins,  so  that  they  may  be  Avorked  for  a  considerable  time  -with  greater  profit 
than  these,  although  not  to  be  considered  as  of  the  same  permanent  value. 

In  a  report  on  the  Princeton  mine  made  by  Professor  Blake,  in  December, 
1864,  he  said : 

The  identification  of  the  Princeton  as  a  fissure  vein  leads  us  to  the  question  whether  all 
the  gold  veins  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  other  gold  districts  of  similar  formation  are  not  also 
of  fissure  origin,  rather  than  formed  by  metamorphism  from  materials  pre-existing  in  the 
strata.  It  certainly  is  not  essential  to  a  fissure  vein  that  it  should  cut  across  the  strata  of  a 
country.  In  a  region  of  regularly  stratified  slates,  the  line  of  least  resistance  to  a  breaking 
force  is  certainly  the  line  or  plane  rather  of  the  stratification.  In  that  line  or  plane  the  rocky 
crust  may  be  most  readily  split,  and  hence  it  is,  I  believe,  that  most  of  our  veins  are  found 
conforming  to  the  stratification.  Professor  Tuomey,  in  his  report  on  the  geology  of  South 
Carolina,  describing  the  gold-bearing  veins  of  that  State,  mentions  several  that  for  a  part 
of  their  coiuse  follow  the  bedding  of  the  rocks,  and  in  other  places  cut  across  the  bedding. 
I  have  observed  similar  conditions  at  various  places  in  California,  and  I  am  daily  more  and 
more  inclined  to  the  view  that  gold  veins  are  the  results  of  emanations  from  great  depths 
below,  which,  ascending  through  rifts  and  fissures  of  the  rocks,  were  condensed  or  deposited 
upon  the  walls. 

Claims  ix  i\lAEirosA. — The  following  is  a  list  of  the  claims  on  the  mother 
lode,  beginning  at  the  mother  lode  and  going  northward : 

The  Crown  Lead,  4,500  feet  on  the  mother  lode,  besides  claims  on  two  parallel 
lodes.     Not  at  work.     Noticed  elsewhere. 

The  Virginia,  2,500  feet,  crops  out  largely.  A  tunnel  160  feet  long  strikes  the 
vein  at  a  depth  of  100  feet.  Several  shallow  shafts  have  been  sunk.  Some 
good  quartz  has  been  found,  but  no  work  is  being  done  now.     There  is  no  mill. 

The  Pyles,  1,200  feet;  no  work  done. 

The  ^Marv  Harrison  has  a  mill,  and  is  at  work. 

The  Clayton,  :J,000  feet. 

The  Louisa,  3,000  feet,  is  being  opened  and  explored.  One  shaft  is  down  130 
feet,  and  another  is  being  sunk  to  the  same  depth,  and  a  third,  couimenced  on  a 
lower  level,  is  do\\ii  90  feet.  A  tunnel  started  near  the  level  of  Maxwell's 
creek,  strikes  the  bottom  of  the  90  foot  shaft.  About  2,000  tons  of  ore  have 
been  taken  out,  and  have  been  crushed  at  the  mill  of  the  3  Lax  well  Creek  Mining 
Company,  yielding  $8  or  $9  per  ton.  The  mother  is  split  up  here  into  a  number 
of  branches. 

On  the  I\Iargaret,  3,000  feet,  no  work  has  been  done.  In  this  claim  the  mother 
lode  is  split  up  into  a  number  of  narrow  branches,  at  least  at  and  near  Maxwell's 
creek,  which  separates  it  from  the  Louisa. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  17 

The  Pumpkin,  3,000  feet,  is  not  doing  jin_ytlung.  Several  shafts  have  been 
sunk,  and  some  rock  taken  from  it  seven  or  eight  years  ago  yielded  $40  per  ton. 

The  Nonsuch,  1,-100  feet,  is  lying  idle. 

Paralh'l  with  and  opposite  to  the  Nonsuch,  ."iOO  feet  distant  to  the  eastward, 
on  a  talcose  shite  vein,  is  the  Ilidely  and  Cunningham  mine.  A  four-stamp  mill 
commenced  running  last  spring. 

On  the  King  Solomon,  o,000  feet,  no  work  is  doing. 

The  Yosemite,  3,000  feet,  has  a  tunnel  of  exploration,  but  no  mill,  and  is  not 
at  work. 

The  Pefion  Blanco,  6,000  feet  long,  is  being  explored  by  a  tunnel  nmning 
,  2S5  feet  on  the  vein  from  the' northwest  side  of  the  hill,  and  by  a  cross-tunnel 
from  the  east  side  of  the  hill.  Eight  men  arc  at  work,  and  $6,000  or  $S,000 
have  been  spent  on  the  claim.  The  name  is  Spanish,  means  "  large  white  rock,'"' 
and  was  suggested  by  the  immense  croppings  of  white  quartz  on  the  top  of  the 
high  hill,  which  is  one  of  the  most  prominent  land-marks  in  the  western  part  of 
Mariposa  county. 

The  Murphy, feet,  has  done  nothing. 

The  ^IcAlpin,  1,200  feet^  was  worked  10  years,  first  with  an  arrastra,  and 
afterwards  with  an  eight-stamp.  The  lode  is  here  25  feet  wide.  A  tunnel  strikes 
the  vein  400  feet  below  the  surface,  and  a  shaft  runs  down  160  feet  from  the 
tunnel.  ^IcAlpin  sold  out  in  1864,  and  left  the  State,  taking  with  him,  if  rumor 
is  right,  $75,000  obtained  net  from  the  mine.  Since  he  left  the  mine  has  not 
paid,  and  the  mill  is  now  standing  idle.  Ten  or  15  feet  eastward  from  the 
main  lode,  and  parallel  with  it,  is  a  companion  vein,  which  has  been  worked  to 
some  ext<.nit,  and  is  supposed  by  some  miners  to  be  richer  than  the  main  lode. 
The  mill  is  driven  by  water  supplied  by  the  Golden  Rock  Water  Company. 

Claims  ix  Tcolumxe. — The  following  claims  are  now  lying  idle  or  only 
partially  worked.  Those  marked  *  are  idle;  those  upon  which  wo-rh  is  being 
done  are  noticed : 

The  King  Philip*;  theNewhall,*  3,000  feet;  the  Rhodes,*  3,000  feet ;  Wood- 
worth,*  3,000  feet;  Wheeler,*  7,500  feet;  Munn*;  Wotcott and  Rocco*;  the  Cul- 
bertson,*  extending  across  the  Tuolumne  river ;  here  comes  a  tract*  of  1,200  feet 
in  dispute ;  the  Kelly,*  4,000  feet ;  the  Clio,  2,000  feet,  has  a  10-stamp  mill,  not  at 
work  now;  the  Scorpion*;  the  Northern  Light,*  3,000  feet;  the  Johnson,  the 
Yuma,*  3,150  feet,  and  the  Hector,  are  on  the  Talcose  companion  vein  in  this 
neighborhood.  The  Shawmut  is  on  the  main  lode  and  has  a  mill.  The  Eagle 
also  has  a  mill. 

The  Chickenhawk  has  two  shafts,  and  is  at  work  with  a  hoisting  engine,  but 
without  a  mill.  The  Dickson  &  Co.,*  1,500  feet;  tlie  Durgan  &:  Co.,*  500  or 
600  feet;  the  Golden  Rule*;  the  Simmons  &  Co.,*  SOO  feet;  the  Jliller,  Waller 
&  Co.,*  450  feet;  the  lleslep  &  Co.,*  900  feet;  the  Simon  Whitford  &  Co.,* 
450  feet;  the  Rowe  &  Co.,*  350  feet;  the  Golden  Rule,  1,600  feet,  has  a  15- 
stamp  mill  in  profitable  operation  on  the  eastern  vein;  the  Waller  &  App,*  780 
feet,  has  a  shaft  60  feet  deep;  the  Hitchcock,*  500  feet.  The  Nyman,  550  feet, 
has  a  tunnel  150  feet  long,  and  a  shaft  40  feet  deep;  another  tunnel  is  now  being 
run  to  open  the  mine.     There  is  no  mill. 

The  Jim  Stuart,*  530  feet,  has  a  shaft  78  feet  deep ;  the  App,  1,000  feet,  has 
been  worked  regularly  for  seven  years  with  a  lO-stamp  mill.  Opposite  to  the 
App,  on  the  eastern  talcose  vein,  is  the  Heslep,  1,650  feet,  which  has  been  at 
work  for  15  years  wath  a  10-stamp  mill.  This  claim  extends  beyond  the  App 
and  is  opposite  the  Jim  Stuart  also. 

The  Silver,  1,500  feet,  has  a  10-stamp  mill,  but  in  May  all  the  work  was 
given  to  opening  the  mine.     The  Sweeny,  1,500  feet,  has  a  live-stamp  mill,  bnt 
the  mine  has  caved  in,  the  flume  was  blown  down,  and  no  work  is  being  done. 
One  pocket  near  the  surface  paid  $30,000. 
2 


18  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND   TERRITORIES 

Tlie  Tazewell,*  800  feet;  tlic  Donovan  &  Co.;*  the  McCann,*  600  feet;  the 
Mooney  &c  Co.,  GOO  feet,  lias  a  four-stamp  mill  in  profitable  operation  working 
the  taleose  vein;  the  Trio,*  2,316  feet,  has  a  10-stamp  mill;  the  Harris,  1,000 
feet,  has  no  mill,  but  is  being  opened;  the  Williams  &  Brother,  1,000  feet,  has 
no  mill,  but  is  being  opened;  the  Heist,  1,000  feet,  has  a  four-stamp  mill,  and  is 
paying;  the  General  Hooker,*  1,200  feet;  the  llawhide  Extension  is  doing 
nothing  now,  though  there  is  a  shaft  200  feet  deep,  which  always  contains  water, 
sometimes  to  witliin  20  feet  of  the  surface;  in  the  Rawhide  claim  adjoining 
there  is  a  working  shaft  280  feet  deep,  and  only  40  feet  distant.  The  Rawhide, 
1,6/30  feet,  is  owned  bv  a  New  York  eom])any,  and  has  a  20-stamp  mill. 

The  Hensley  &  Col,*  1,300  feet;  the  Faxon,*  1,000  feet;  the  Quinby,  1,000 
feet,  on  the  eastern  taleose  companion  vein,  has  a  four-stamp  mill  which  has  been  * 
idle  for  years;  the  Chaparral,  l.T^OO  feet,  has  a  five-stamp  mill,  but  is  not  running; 
the  Buckeye,  1,200  i'ect,  is  on  a  branch  vein  200  feet  west  of  the  main  mother 
lode,  opposite  to  the  Chaparral. 

The  Ilorsely,*  1,500  feet,  has  sunk  a  shaft  20  feet  deep ;  the  :Meader  &  Car- 
rington,*  Ij-OOO  feel,  has  a  four-stam))  mill ;  the  Ilawkcve,*  1,000  feet ;  the  Silver 
Hill,*  1,500  feet;  the  Gillis,*  1,200  feet;  the  Gillis  No.  2,*  1,200  feet;  the 
Seavers,*  1,000  feet;  the  Watt"";  the  Alsop  &  Co.,*  reaches  to  the  Stanislaus 
river. 

The  following  clahns  are  on  an  eastern  branch  or  companion  vein  of  the 
mother  lode,  commencing  at  the  Rawhide,  and  running  northward  to  the  Stan- 
islaus river. 

First  is  a  piece  of  unclaimed  ground  where  no  lode  has  been  found.  Tho 
White  Senior*  claim;  the  Tom  NVhite,*  1,200  feet;  the  Patterson,  has  a  10- 
stamp  mill,  but  only  live  are  running ;  the  Gillis,  *  1,200  feet ;  the  Jackson  ;*  tho 
Waters;*  the  Rector,*  1,200  feet,  has  sunk  a  shaft  52  feet  deep;  the  Watts, 
1,000  feet,  is  now  at  work  ])rospecting,  about  $15,000  have  been  taken  from 
small  veins  at  the  surface ;  the  Mt.  Stanislaus,*  3,000  feet. 

This  brings  us  to  the  Stanislaus  river,  in  the  bed  of  which  no  large  vein  is 
discoverable.  Here,  as  at  Maxwell's  creek,  the  lode  is  split  up  into  a  multitude 
of  little  branches. 

Claims  in  Calavekas. — Immediately  north  of  the  Stanislaus  river,  on  the 
line  of  the  mother  lode,  Carson  hill  rises  to  an  elevation  of  1,600  feet  alcove  the 
river ;  and  the  lode  in  passing  through  the  hill  appears  to  split  into  tln-ee  branches. 
On  the  eastern  branch  are  the  following,  viz :  the  Virginia,*  1,000  feet ;  the 
Adjunction,*  800  feet ;  the  Carson  Hill,  has  done  some  work,  but  is  not  doing  any- 
thing now ;  tho  South  Carolina,  2,550  feet,  has  yielded  S400,000,  and  is  now  closed ; 
the  Enterprise,*  800  feet ;  the  Reserve,  9S0  feet,  is  being  reopened,  but  has  no 
mill,  the  yield  has  been  $130,000. 

These  are  all  the  claims  on  the  eastern  branch.  On  the  middle  branch  are  the 
following,  commencing  at  tho  river,  and  running  northward :  the  Stanislaus,* 
1,200  feet;  tho  Mineral  Mountain,*  3,000  feet;  the  i\[elones,*  1,200  feet. 

On  tho  western  or  Santa  Cruz  branch  is  the  Santa  Cruz*  mine,  3,000  feet ;  tho 
Morgan,  500  feet,  has  no  mill,  but  is  at  work,  yielded  $2,800,000  in  1850 
and  1851 ;  the  Kentucky,*  220  feet ;  the  Iron  Rock,  1,300  feet,  is  doing  nothing, 
though  some  very  good  rock  was  found  in  short  tunnels  and  shafts ;  tho  Chapar- 
ral,* 3,031  feet;  the  Chaparral  Hill,  3,200  feet,  is  now  at  work  taking  out  rock, 
but  has  no  mill. 

Here  comes  a  space  where  the  vein  has,  not  been  found. 

Tho  Hanford,  900  feet  ;*  tho  Hanlbrd  and  Shears.* 

Here  comes  an  interval  of  a  mile  and  three-ipiarters,  before  we  reat-h  tho  town 
of  Angels. 

The  Stickles,  400  feet,  has  a  10-stamp  mill  at  work;  the  Calaveras,*  1,100 
feet,  had  a  nine-st.imp  mill  which  was  moved  away  ;  the  Lightner,  400  feet,*  had  a 
10-stamp  mill,  but  it  has  been  moved  away;  the  Angel,  900  feet,  has  a  30-stamp 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  19 

mill,  now  at  work  ;  the  Hill,  412  feet,  lias  produced  $250,000,  and  has  a  12- 
stamp  mill  at  work;  the  Bovee,  450  I'eet,  has  produced  $000,000,  and  has  a  10- 
stauip  mill  at  work  ;  the  Fritz,*  GOO  ieet,  had  a  10-stamp  mill,  which  was  moved 
away. 

llei'e  comes  another  space  where  the  mother  lode  is  not  traceable  on  the  surface, 
and  has  not  been  traced.  Tlie  <:^eneral  opinion  is  that  it  crosses  the  Mokelunme 
river  about  three  miles  west  of  Mokelunme  Hill. 

Claims  ix  Amador. — North  of  that  river,  in  Amador  county,  wo  have 
the  followin.ir:  the  Tibbetts  &  Corliss;*  the  Hay  ward,  1,S00  feet,  has  56 
stamps  at  work,  cvushini^  80  tons  per  day,  and  has  been  at  work  since  1852, 
the  reputed  yield  is  $27  per  ton  gross,  and  $22  net,  or  more  than  $000,000 
'  net  per  year;  the  Loriiig-  Hill,  700  feet,  has  been  worked  for  10  years.  Oppo- 
site to  the  Loring  Hill,  on  a  parallel  vein,  is  the  llailroad,  800  feet.  This 
mine  has  yielded  $70,000,  and  is  now  at  work,  but  has  no  mill.  The  Wild- 
man,  1,130  feet,  is  down  530  feet,  and  has  drifted  200  feet,  but  the  12-stamp 
mill  is  employed  in  doiuix  custom-work ;  the  Slahoney  has  been  w'orking'  five 
years,  with  a  15-stamp  mill;  the  Lincoln,  2,378  feet,  has  worked  10  or  12 
years,  but  the  20-staaiip  mill  is  now  engaged  in  custom-work ;  the  Barnhart,* 
1,000  feet;  the  Comet,  750  feet,  has  commenced  prospecting;  the  Herbertville, 
1,200  feet,  had  a  30-stamp  mill,  which  never  paid,  and  was  burned  down. 
No  work  is  being  done  at  the  mine.  The  Keystone,  has  a  20-stamp  mill, 
has  worked  steadily  since  1851,  and  has  produced  about  $700,000,  Opposite  to 
the  Keystone,  on  a  companion  vein,  is  the  Spring  Hill,  1,200  feet,  which  has 
crushed  50,000  tons  of  quartz,  but  obtained  little  profit.  It  has  a  30-stamp 
mill,  which  is  idle,  with  the  exception  of  five  stamps  engaged  in  custom-work. 
The  Amador,  1,300  feet,  was  worked  to  a  depth  of  240  feet  some  years  ago,  but 
afterwards  caved  in,  and  has  stood  idle  now,  for  some  time  ;  the  Bunker  Hill, 
1,200  feet,  is  at  work  with  an  eight-stamp  mill;  the  Mayflower,*  1,200  feet; 
the  Hazard,*  800  feet,  has  an  eight-stamp  mill;  the  Pennsylvania,*  1,000  feet '; 
the  Loyal,*  600  feet,  has  a  20-stamp  steam  mill ;  the  Italian,  340  feet,  haa 
a  six-stamp  mill,  which  has  crashed  about  2,000  tons  ;  the  Seaton,  1,200  feet,  has 
a  40-stamp  mill,  and  has  worked  about  10,000  tons  of  quarts,  which  averaged 
eight  or  nine  dollars.  The  mill  is  not  running,  but  the  mine  is  being  opened. 
The  McDonald,*  800  feet;  the  Potosi,  800  feet,  is  at  work  with  a  sixteen-stamp 
mill ;  the  Webster,*  600  feet,  had  a  mill,  v.hich  was  moved  away ;  the  Plymouth, 
1,200  feet,  is  being  worked  with  a  15-stamp  mill ;  the  Enterprise,  is  at  work 
with  a  10-starap  mill ;  the  Challen,*  1,000  feet ;  the  Green  Aden,*  1,200  feet, 
has  a  shaft  100  feet  deep;  the  Hooper,*  1,200  feet;  the  Noe,*  800  feet;  the 
Richmond,  800  feet,  has  a  10-stamp  mill,  but  the  only  work  now  being  done 
is  prospecting. 

Here  we  reach  the  Cosumnes  river,  and  north  of  this  the  lode  has  not  been 
traced  distinctly,  although  the  Pacific  lode  at  Placerville  appeal's  to  have  its 
characteri^jtics. 


SECTIOX     III. 

M  A  K  I  P  0  S  A    COUNTY. 

Mariposa*  county,  the  southeramost  of  the  rich  placer  mining  counties  of  the 
Sacramento  basin,  lies  between  parallels  37°  and  38°  of  north  hititude,  and 
reaches  from  the  summit  of  the  Siena  Nevada  to  the  low  land  of  the  San  Joa- 
quin valley.  The  northern  boundary  is  the  divide  between  the  Tuolumne  and 
Mercede  rivers,  and  the  Bonthem  is  a  line  drawn  northeastward  from  the  point 

*  The  name  of  this  county  is  derived  from  the  Spanish  •'  Las  Maripoaus,"  The  Butterflies. 


4 


20  RESOURCES     OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

where  the  Cbowchilla  river  strikes  the  plain.  The  only  permanent  stream  in 
the  county  is  the  Merced ;  the  so-called  Mariposa  river  is  a  littlo  brook  which 
can  readily  be  stepped  across  in  the  summer  season. 

The  distance  of  the  town  of  Mariposa  from  Stockton  is  90  miles,  and  the 
ordinary  charge  for  freight  in  the  summer  is  625  per  ton  of  2,000  pounds.  A 
stage  runs  to  Bear  Valley  in  a  day  from  Stockton,  and  the  fare  is  $10.  Another 
stage  line  runs  to  Coulterville,  and  the  fare  there  is  $10,  and  the  distance  is 
made  in  one  day.  The  county  tax  for  the  current  fiscal  year  is  $3  19  per  $100 
of  taxable  property.  Coulterville  lies  north  and  Bear  Valley  south  of  the 
Merccde  river,  the  banks  of  which,  in  that  vicinity,  are  so  steep  and  high  that  no 
wagon  road  has  been  made  across  it ;  and  although  the  distance  from  one  town 
to  the  other  by  the  horse  trail  is  only  10  miles,  it  is  45  by  the  wagon  road. 

Sectional  area  of  Mariposa  county,  1,884  square  miles.  Population  in  1860, 
6,243;  estimated  in  1866,  4,170.  Assessed  valuation  of  property  in  1865, 
61,237,370.  Mr.  Wm.  S.  Watson,  constructing  engineer  of  the  projected  Cop- 
peropolis  and  Stockton  railroad  says  :  ^'  From  the  nature  of  the  country  and  the 
pursuits  of  the  inhabitants,  Mariposa  imports  of  merchandise  4,240  tons  per 
annum,  which,  with  an  increase  of  population  to  the  standard  of  Nevada  county, 
and  the  consequent  development  of  her  vast  resources,  would  be  quadmpled  in 
a  very  short  time.  The  down  freights  from  this  county,  consisting  of  copper 
ores,  wool,  hides,  &c.,  amount  to  920  tons  annually.  The  principal  points  of 
shipping  are  Homitas,  Priacetown,  Agua  Frie,  Mariposa,  Coulterville  and  Bear 
Valley.     Total  up  and  down  freights,  5,160  tons." 

The  shipment  of  gold  dust  from  Coulterville  Avas  $13,285  in  July,  1866; 
$13,500  in  August;  $17,000  in  September;  $24,900  in  October;  $14,790  in 
November;  $7,280  in  December,  $4,950  quartz  and  $9,484  jdacer  in  January, 
1867;  $11,050  placer  and  $14,800  in  March;  and  $8,080  quartz  and  $3,660 
placer  in  April. 

The  average  monthly  shipment  of  treasure  from  the  town  of  Mariposa  is 
$17,000  or  $i8,000. 

There  are  two  small  ditches  south  of  the  Mercede  river,  and  a  branch  of  the 
Golden  Rock  ditch  extending  to  Penon  Blanco,  and  these  are  the  only  ditches 
in  the  county.  In  proporrion  to  the  yield  of  gold,  Mariposa  has  fewer  ditches 
than  any  other  county  in  the  State. 

Placer  Mixing. — Many  of  the  placer  districts  in  the  county  have  been  very 
rich,  but  the  diggings  have  in  no  place  been  deep,  and  they  would  long  ago  have 
been  exhausted  if  there  had  been  large  ditches  to  supply  water;  but  these  were 
lacking,  so  washing  has  been  conducted  on  a  small  scale,  and  for  only  a  brief 
period  each  year.  The  richness  of  the  ground  and  the  coarseness  of  the  gold 
lias  enabled  the  miners  to  make  a  profit  sometimes  by  dry  digging  or  scratching 
the  gravel  over  with  a  butcher-knife.  IMaxwell's  Creek,  Blue  Gulch,  Bear  Creek, 
"White's  Gulch,  Pefion  Blanco,  the  north  fork  of  the  Mercede,  the  banks  of  the 
main  IMercede,  and  the  vicinities  of  the  towns  of  Mariposa  and  Hornitas  were 
especially  rich.  In  Maxwell's  Creek,  about  1852,  the  connnon  yield  was  $15  or 
$20  })er  day  to  the  man,  and  in  1863  two  miners  in  two  months  washed  out 
$16,000  at  Pcfion  Blanco.  In  1850  Horse  Shoe  Bend,  on  the  Mercede,  had  a 
population  of  400  miners.  There  are  now  a  dozen  small  and  shallow  hydraulic 
claims  there,  which  pay  about  $4  per  day  to  the  man.  The  population  of  the 
bend  nmnbers  100,  of  whom  half  are  ('hinamen.  On  the  top  of  Buckhoni 
mountain,  cast  of  Coulterville,  at  an  elevation  1,500  feet  above  the  Mercede 
river,  there  is  a  placer  which  pays  well  while  it  rains,  but  cannot  be  worked  at 
any  other  time  for  want  of  water.  Flyaway,  in  a  gully  by  the  side  of  Buckhorn 
mountain,  is  also  rich,  but  there,  too,  no  water  can  be  got  save  during  rains. 

AoiucuLTurvE. — There  is  no  agriculture  in  Mariposa  county  worthy  of  note. 
There  is  not  one  large  orchard,  vineyard,  or  grain  farm.  Only  a  small  quantity 
of  I'ain  falls,  .and  the  soil  appears  to  be  of  a  very  dry  nature.     A  large  portion 


WEST    OF   THE    KOCKY   MOUNTAINS.  -        21 

of  the  snrfacc  is  occupied  by  steep  bills,  wliicU  prove  tlicir  thirsty  diameter  ky 
sustaining'  no  vegetation  save  the  cheniisal.  'J'liero  are  no  ditches  to  sustain 
irrigation,  and  as  the  most  i)opulous  part  of  the  county  was  the  Mariposa  grant, 
the  residents  there  having-  no  title  had  no  sutlicient  inducement  to  invest  money 
in  planting  trees  and  vines.  '  The  western  part  of  the  ct)unty  is  made  up  chieflv 
of  t:hemisal  hills,  with  occasionally  small  dales  with  scattered  oak  trees.  In  tlw 
eastern  })art  of  the  county  there  arc  some  plains  about  3,000  feet  high,  and  these 
have  a  rich  and  moist  soil  and  may  some  day  become  far  more  valuable  tliau 
the}-  are  now.  Still  farther  east,  at  an  elevation  of  5,000  feet  or  more,  we  come 
to  large  forests  of  good  pine  timber,  with  occasional  groves  of  the  big  tree. 

YosEMiTE. — One  of  the  resources  of  the  county  is  the  possessnon  of  the 
Yosemite  valley,  which  is  destined  to  be  a  favorite  place  of  resort  when  access 
is  cheaper  and  more  comfortable  than  at  present.  The  trip  can  now  be  made 
from  San  Francisco  to  the  valley  and  back  in  eight  days  for  $75,  staying  only 
a  day  in  the  valley,  but  the  average  amount  spent  on  the  trip  by  visitors  is  not 
less  than  $150.  On  the  Coultcrville  trail  there  is  a  stretch  of  .39  miles  to  bo 
made  on  horseback,  with  no  house  on  the  Avay  ;  and  on  the  ]\Iariposa  trail  the 
nearest  house  to  the  valley  is  25  miles  off.  Thus  there  is  no  mode  of  reaching 
the  place  except  a  hard  ride  over  a  very  rugged  road,  and  it  is  a  severe  trial  to 
})ersons  unaccustomed  to  riding  horseback.  A  wagon  road  might  be  made,  but 
some  of  the  people  on  the  route  think  it  their  policy  to  prevent  the  construction 
of  a  road.  Near  the  Mariposa  trail  is  a  fine  grove  of  the  big  trees.  The  num- 
ber of  visitors  to  Yosemite  in  ISCi-l  was  240;  in  1865,  360 ;  "and  in  1866,  620. 

The  MAKirosA  Estate. — The  Mariposa  Estate,  or  Fremont  Grant,  as  it  is 
sometimes  called,  contains  4-1,380  acres,  or  about  70  square  miles.  It  reaches 
12  miles  from  east  to  west,  and  12^-  miles  from  north  to  south.  Its  greatest 
length,  from  northwest  to  southeast,  is  al)out  17  miles,  and  its  average  width 
nearly  5  miles.  Its  northern  line  touches  the  Merc(a?Ki-iver,  the  southern  the 
town  of  Iiridgcport.  It  includes  the  towns  of  Mariposa,  Bridgeport,  Guadalupe, 
Arkansas  Flat,  Lower  Agua  Fria,  Upper  Agua  Fria,  Princeton,  Mount  0}iliir, 
and  Bear  Valley.  The  grant  was  made  while  California  was  under  the  dominion 
of  Mexico,  to  Juan  B.  Alvarado,  and  it  Avas  purchased  in  1847  by  J.  C.  Fremont, 
who  presented  his  claim  for  the  land  to  the  United  States  land  ccmnnission, 
and  it  was  finally  confirmed  to  him,  and  the  patent  was  issued  February,  1856. 
The  original  grant  was  of  land  suitable  for  grazing  j^urposes  in  the  basin  of  tho 
Mariposa  river,  but  the  boundaries  were  not  fixed,  and  the  grantee  had  the  right 
of  locating  the  claim  on  any  land  within  a  large  area.  When  the  grant  was  to 
be  suiTcyed  Fremont  said  he  wanted  a  long  strip  of  laud  in  the  low-land  on 
both  banks  of  the  Mariposa  river;  but  the  United  States  surveyor  told  him  the 
survey  must  be  in  a  compact  form.  Then,  instead  of  taking  a  compact  area  of 
grazing  land  and  worthless  mountain,  he  swung  his  grant  rovmd  and  covered  the 
valualde  Pine  Tree  and  Josephine  mines,  near  the  Mercede  river,  besides  a  number 
of  others  which  had  been  in  the  undisputed  possession  of  miners,  who  had  hmg 
been  familiar  with  Fremont,  and  had  never  heard  the  h.'ast  intimation  from  him 
that  he  would  in  any  event  lay  claim  to  their  works.  Personal  indignation  thus 
came  in  to  embitter  a  quarrel  involving  large  pecuniary  interests;  but  the  patent 
did  not  necessarily  give  the  gold  of  the  giant  to  Fremont.  Under  the  Slexicau/ 
law  the  grantee  had  iio  right  to  the  minerals,  and  the  American  law  spoke  of  aj 
confinnatidn,  not  an  enlargement,  of  the  Mexican  title.  Here  then  was  another  f 
subject  for  litigation,  and  at  last,  in  1859,  that  matter  was  settled  by  a  decision  I 
that  an  American  patent  for  land  canies  the  minerals  with  it.  The  adverse' 
claimants  defied  the  ofl"cers  of  the  law;  the  mines  were  converted  into  fortifica- 
tions; the  mouths  of  the  tunnels  were  barricaded;  there  were  besiegers  and 
besieged;  several  men  were  killed;  but  at  last,  in  1859,  Fremont  triumphed,  and 
under  his  ]\Iexican  grant  obtained  land  which  the  Mexiciin  government  did  not 
intend  to  grant,  and  minerals  which  it  systematically  reserved. 


22  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

In  a  short  time  after  the  title  was  satisfactorily  settled  the  yield  of  gold  from 
the  quartz  mines  of  the  estate  became  very  large.  The  monthly  production  in 
18G0  averaged  839,500  ;  in  1S61,  $53,500";  inlSG2,the  year  of  the  great  flood, 
■which  injm'cd  the  mills,  flooded  mines,  and  broke  up  roads,  843,500;  and  in  the 
first  live  months  of  IS63,  877,000.  In  March,  1863,  the  yield  was  $94,000;  in 
April,  892,000 ;  and  in  May,  8101,000.  The  production  seemed  to  have  reached 
lythc  figure  of  8100,000  per  month,  with  a  fair  prospect  of  still  further  increase. 
It  was  at  this  time  that  the  estate  was  sold  to  an  incoi^ orated  company  in  New 
JYorkj^',  and  the  stoch  put  upon  the  market  in  the  midst  of  the  San  Francisco 
mining  stock  fever,  which  extended  its  influence  across  the  continent.  The 
}>rospectus  of  the  company  presented  a  very  attractive  picture  to  speculators. 
The  average  monthly  yield  for  three  years  and  a  half  had  been  850,000,  and  for 
half  a  year  the  net  profits  had  equalled  that  sum.  The  reports  of  various  mining 
engineers  indicated  that  the  results  of  future  workings  would  l)e  still  better. 
Messrs.  Wakelee  and  Garnctt,  who  spoke  with  great  caution,  and  expressed 
doubts  at)out  the  value  of  the  Mariposa,  the  Pine  Tree,  and  Josephine  mines, 
still  thought  that  the  monthly'  productions  of  the  estate  could  soon  be  raised  to 
8220,000,  at  an  expense  of  not  more  than  850,000,  leaving  8170,000  net  monthly 
income.     Dr.  J.  Adelberg,  speaking  of  the  Pine  Tree  and  Josephine  mines,  said: 

lu  regard  to  the  value  of  the  veins,  I  can  say  no  more  than  that  their  yield  in  precious 
metal  is  limited  only  by  the  amount  of  work  done  in  them;  but  I  recollect  Mr.  Frcinout 
once  comniissiouing  me  to  make  an  estimate  as  to  their  endurance  in  thelimits  of  the  longi- 
tudinal extent  now  opened.  I  found  by  calculation  that  they  would  yi'dd  tor  388  years  lUO 
tons  daily,  without  the  requisition  of  pumps.     I  mean  down  to  the  water  level. 

Mr.  Timothy  C.  Allyn  made  a  report  on  the  property  in  Deceml)er,  1862,  and 
expressed  the  opinion  that  the  yield  could  be  increased  8100,000  per  month, 
gross,  and  $50,000  net.  A  report  equally  favorable  by  Mr.  Claudet  was  also 
published.  Professor  Whitney,  a  most  careful,  conscientious,  and  competent 
authority,  had  said : 

The  quantity  of  material  whifh  can  be  mined  may,  without  exaggeration,  be  termed 
inexhaustible.  I  can  hardly  see  a  limit  to  the  amount  of  gold  which  the  property  is  capable 
of  producing,  except  in  the  time,  space,  and  capital  required  to  erect  the  necessary  mills, 
build  roads  to  them,  and  open  mines,  so  as  to  keep  them  supplied  with  ore. 

j  With  these  opinions  and  facts,  large  quantities  of  the  stock  were  pm"chased, 
and  there  were  large  quantities  of  it  to  be  purchased,  for  the  paper  capital  of 

jthe  company  was  810,000,000. 

I     The  company  was  organized  by  Fremont's  creditors,  who  had  become  owners 

[of  the  pro])crty;  but  instead  of  cancelling  the  debt  and  taking  stock  for  it,  they 
took  a  mortgage  for  $15,000,000,  payable  in  gold,  and  issued  the  stock  subject 
to  that  debt,  which  was  supposed  to  be  the  only  incumbrance  on  the  property; 
at  least  that  was  the  supposition  of   many  who    bought  the  stock.     It  soon 

■^appeared,  however,  that  there  were  8480,000  in  gold  due,  besides  8300,000  on  the 
A  garrison  lien,  850,000  on  the  Clark  mortgage,  and  $1.30,000  to  workmen  and 

"^others  in  California.  The  new  company  selected  Mr.  F.  L.  Olmsted  for  their 
manager,  and  he  took  charge  of  the  estate  on  the  14th  November,  1S64.  lie 
found  evcrylhing  in  confusion.  The  ])roduction  had  fallen  oft"  very  suddenly 
after  the  sale.  It  seemed  as  if  every  nerve  had  been  strained  to  make  the  yield 
of  May  as  large  as  possible,  and  that  as  soon  as  the  sale  was  made  t^je  produc- 
tion decreased  more  tlian  50  per  cent.  The  yield  for  the  first  live  mouths  of 
1863  before  the  sale  was  $385,000,  and  during  the  last  six  after  the  sale  was 
$186,993.  In  the  former  ]ieriod  there  was  a  not  profit  of  $50,000  per  month; 
in  the  latter  a  net  loss  of  $80,000. 

In  May,  1864,  Professor  Silliman  made  a  report  on  the  estate,  in  which  he 
said : 

A  person  accustomed  to  view  mines  must  bo  deeply  impressed  oh  the  first  view  of  this 
estate,  not  more  with  the  great  extent  and  vigor  of  the  former  workings — evidence  of  which 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  23 

is  seen  equally  in  the  unrlornp-onnd  extraction  and  in  the  surface  works,  railroads,  mills, 
trails,  wagon  roads,  warchousos.  and  workshops — than  with  the  eciually  conspicuous  fact  that 
the  former  owners  had  no  rcLTaid  for  their  successors,  inasmuch  as  they  have  in  every  instance 
violated  in  the  most  remarkal)!*'  manner  that  fundamental  maxim  of  all  successful  miniuf^, 
namely,  to  keep  works  of  exploration  well  in  advance  of  works  of  extraction.  The  nef^iect 
of  this  maxim,  in  ordinary  cases,  is  never  of  doubtful  issue.  In  your  case  the  result  has  been 
peculiarly  unfortunate,  since  your  estatd  is  not  a  mine,  but  a  vast  collection  of  mineral  veins, 
on  many  of  which  valuable  mines  may  be  developed,  and  on  some  of  which  such  devclo|)- 
nionts  were  made  of  an  encouraj^inp^  character,  but  the  netjlect  to  apply  the  principle  in  ques- 
tion has  resulted  in  the  complete  suspension  of  three  of  the  mills,  the  partial  suspension  of 
n  fourth,  and  the  supply  of  the  fifth  for  a  time  with  an  inferior  quality  of  ore,  all  because  the 
veins  on  which  these  mills  depended  for  ore  were  worked  on  the  improvident  plan  of  taking 
all  the  ore  in  sight  as  far  and  as  fast  as  it  could  be  found,  but  never  anticipating  the  evil 
day,  sinking  shafts  and  driving  levels  long  enough  in  advance  of  the  calls  of  the  present 
hour  to  foresee  disaster,  much  less  to  prevent  it. 

A  mine  is  a  storehouse  in  which  are  garnered  certain  treasures  of  large,  it  may  be,  but  not 
inexhaustible  supply.  Certain  it  is,  the  ore  which  has  been  mined  will  never  recur.  Hence, 
it  is  the  fate  of  all  mines  at  some  period  to  become  exhausted.  The  only  compensation  to 
this  circumstance  is  in  the  possession  by  one  company  of  a  considerable  number  of  mines 
which  may  be  brought,  in  succession,  into  activity,  so  as  to  supplement  each  other.  Your 
position  in  this  respect  is  one  of  immense  strength ;  not  only  do  you  hold  on  the  Mariposa 
estate  a  vast  plexus  of  veins,  of  most  of  which  very  little  is  known  at  present,  but  you  also 
own  a  great  length  of  country  on  several  veins,  the  character  of  which  is  already  proved. 
It  follows  from  this  state  of  facts  that,  with  the  frugal  and  timely  application  of  capital,  you 
ought  never  to  be  in  a  position  where  the  partial  or  complete  exhaustion  of  a  particular  mine, 
or  of  several  mines,  should  be  severely  felt  on  j'our  general  production,  nor  would  it  be  so 
to-day  had  it  been  the  interest  of  those  who  preceded  you  to  apply  the  simple  maxim  already 
quoted.  But  the  reckless  disregard  of  this  sound  principle  has  resulted,  not  only  in  a  partial 
suspensionofj'our  production  of  gold— amounting  to  a  serious  disappointment  of  well-founded 
hopes — but,  still  worse,  in  the  almost  destruction  of  certain  parts  of  the  mines,  where  the 
usual  piers  of  vein  have  been  removed  for  milling,  leaving  the  mines  to  crush  in,  endan»er- 
ing  not  human  life  only,  but  the  very  existence  of  the  mines  themselves.  The  simple  result 
of  all  this  has  been,  that  your  manager  found  himself,  at  the  outset  of  your  occupancy,  face 
to  faA  with  a  most  embarrassing  and  painful  state  of  facts,  with  the  alternative  before  him 
of  throwing  off  the  duty  ho  had  undertaken  or  of  grappling  with  the  difficulties  and,  by  a 
series  of  judicious  measures,  extricating  this  noble  estate  from  its  disastrous  position.  For- 
tunately for  ail  concerned,  he  elected  the  latter  alternative;  and  it  will  give  mo  pleasure  to 
Eoint  out  in  what  manner  he  has,  with  great  good  judgment,  proposed  to  meet  the  difiSculties 
e  has  found. 

It  is  quite  obvious,  from  the  facts  and  statements  already  detailed  in  this  report,  that  you 
hold  an  estate  of  very  great  value,  but  also  in  a  great  degree  undeveloped,  and  demandintr  a 
large  amount  of  active  capital  for  its  proper  management.  That  the  judicious  use  of  money 
will  be  rewarded,  and  that  speedily,  by  exploring  the  undeveloped  quartz  veins  of  the  estate, 
is  too  obvious,  I  trust,  after  the  arguments  and  facts  already  sot  forth,  to  require  further  illus- 
tration. All  explorations  will  not  be  fruitful  certainly,  but  those  which  are  so  will  become 
so  largely  remunerative  that  they  will  cancel  the  others.  By  no  other  plan  can  you  hope  to 
manage  the  estate  with  honor  or  profit.  By  this  method  you  will  be  sure  to  develop  a  vast 
value,  which  will  render  your  stock  desirable  as  a  permanent  and  safe  investment.  By  any 
other  system  you  may  attain  a  spasmodic  vitality — to  be  followed  soon  by  a  total  collapse. 

Your  manager  fully  appreciates  these  views,  and  his  plans  now  in  progress  of  development 
will  not  fail  to  secure  the  early  and  permanent  prosperity  of  the  Mariposa  estate. 

In  1864  the  yiokl  was  8465,000,  and  the  expenditnre  of  the  mines  and  mills 
$760,000.  With  a  debt  of  83,000,000,  (that  was  abont  the  fignre  on  the  1st 
January,  1865,)  and  a  monthly  loss  of  820,000,  the  company  was  evidently  not 
in  a  prosperous  condition.  On  the  23d  January,  1865,  a  committee  of  slock- 
liolders,  appointed  to  investigate  the  condition  of  the  company,  made  a  report, 
and  recommended  that  money  be  raised  by  assessment  or  loan  to  pay  the  most 
pressing  debts,  so  tliat  the  work  miglit  be  continued.  They  gave  "it  as  tlieir 
opinion  that  the  property  was  "Avortli  preserving  to  the  stockholders,"  and  that 
the  enjbaiTassments  were  ''owing  to  defective  organization  and  want  of  working 
capital."  The  company  did  not  succeed  in  raising  tlie  money  to  pay  their  most 
pressing  debts,  and  the  estate  was  placed  in  the  hands  of  Dodge  Brothers,  cred- 
itors, for  the  purpose  of  enabling  them  to  work  it  and  pay  their  own  and  others' 
debts. 

The  ti-ustees  found,  according  to  their  own  statement,  that  they  had  spent 


24  EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

move  at  the  end  of  a  year  than  tliey  tad  received ;  and  the  company  being  dis- 
satisfied, brought  suit  and  obtained  the  apijointment  of  a  receiver,  who  is  now 
(May,  1867,)  in  possession,* 

*  Mr.  Mark  Bruma^in,  president  of  the  company,  under  date  of  September  6,  1867,  gives 
the  following  statement  of  the  present  condition  of  the  Mariposa  estate  : 

After  a  period  of  legai  and  tinancial  difliculties  which  have  weighed  heavily  upon  the  Mari- 
posa estate,  the  company  have  succeeded  in  successfully  terminating  the  long  pending  law 
suit  with  the  lessees.  A  final  settlement  has  been  made  with  the  Messrs.  Dodge  Brothers, 
(the  lessees,)  by  which  they  relinquish  to  the  company  all  their  rights  under  the  Olmstead 
lease  for  the  possession  of  the  whole  property. 

The  floating  debt  has  been  reduced  from  about  |200,000  to  less  than  $60,000,  which  has 
been  coucentinted  into  holders  who  are  interested  in  the  success  of  the  company,  and  the 
greater  portion  of  which  is  made  payable  in  instalments  running  through  the  next  twelve 
mouths. 

The  Mariposa  estate  consists  of  upwards  of  44,000  acres  of  gold-bearing  land,  in  the  heart 
of  the  mineral  region  of  California.  It  contains  more  than  J, 000  auriferous  quartz  veins, 
of  which  some  30  have  been  partially  opened,  and  proved  to  be  paying  veius  when  provided 
with  proper  reduction  works.  Of  these  mines  only  five  have  been  supplied  with  machinery, 
and  that  of  a  primitive  kind,  and  very  ineificient  for  saving  gold.  \Vhere  thousands  have 
been  taken  from  the  estate,  millions  of  dollars  have  been  lost  by  bad  management  and  worth- 
less machinery. 

The  working  of  the  Josephine  and  Pine  Tree  mines  for  the  year  1 860,  and  to  the  date  of  the 
incorporation  of  the  company,  shows  an  average  gross  yield  of  §8  5o^  to  the  ton.  From 
that  time  the  j'ield  for  the  above  two  mines  has  beau  respectively,  as  follows: 

The  Pine  Tree  mine,  under  the  succeeding  management,  yielded,  in  gross,  an  average  of 
$6  per  ton  ;  the  lower  run  having  been  $4  21,  autl  the  highest,  .§9  97  per  ton. 

The  books  kept  by  the  Olmsted  management  also  exhibit  the  following  in  regard  to  the 
Josephine  mine :  The  lowest  run  for  auy  one  clean  up  w-as  $2  42  per  ton  ;  the  highest,  §7  05 
per  ton.  making  an  average  gross  yield  for  this  period  of  $4  .'i2  per  ton.  In  brief,  the  average 
yield  of  this  mine  was  at  that  time  so  low  that  it  was  partially  abandoned  as  worthless  by 
their  method  of  saving  gold. 

Under  the  next  management,  (that  of  the  lessees  of  the  company  who  succeeded  OloAted,) 
the  books  show  that  the  quartz  from  these  two  mines  was  worked  together  with  an  average 
gross  yield  of  $9  01  per  ton,  the  ore  having  been  more  or  less  selected. 

The  Pine  Tree  vein  is  in  some  places  over  30  feet  wide,  and  runs  parallel  with  the  Jose- 
phine, which  has  a  width  of  some  12  feet,  both  mines  cropping  out  on  the  summit  of  Mount 
Bullion,  ],500  feet  above  the  Mercer  river,  at  which  the  Benton  mills  are  located. 

The  Josephine  contains  considerable  sulphurets,  while  the  Pine  Tree  has  rather  the  charac- 
ter of  a  "free  gold"  vein.  Both  have  more  or  less  of  oily  substances  in  the  .seams  of  the 
veins.  The  ore  contains  largely  of  "  float  gold,"  so  fine  that  it  floats  for  hours  on  the  surface 
of  tlie  water. 

Quartz  from  these  mines  is  now  supplied  to  the  mills  from  the  tunnels  penetrating  the 
veins  near  the  top  of  the  hill,  but  it  is  designed  to  open  them  by  a  tunnel  at  the  base,  some 
thousand  feet  below  the  present  workings,  which  will  insure  an  unfailing  supply  of  ore. 

Under  the  company's,  or  present  management,  since  we  obtained  full  possession,  we  have 
changed  the  Bear  Valley  mill  into  the  "  eureka  process"  for  saving  gold.  This  mode  of 
disintegration  produces  a  fine,  almost  impalpable  powder,  like  superfine  flour.  Haifa  ton 
of  this  is  enclosed  dry  in  an  iron  receiver,  yujjcrheated  steam  or  gas  is  admitted,  which,  ia 
the  course  of  a  few  minutes  desulphurizes  and  drives  oft' all  base  metals  and  oily  substances. 
Quicksilver  is  then  introduced,  and  a  portion  evaporized,  and  is  atterwards  condensed  by 
couimou  steam  and  cold  water.  An  ingeniously  constractcd  shaking  tabic,  of  copper,  about 
20  feet  long,  on  a  wooden  frame,  with  riffles  of  a  peculiar  formation,  gives  to  the  water 
and  pulverized  substance,  with  the  amalgam,  the  same  action  as  tliat  of  the  ocean  surf,  an 
undertow.  As  the  mass  descends  on  the  table,  the  amalgam,  trom  its  metallic  weight,  grad- 
ually clears  itself  from  the  quartz  substances,  and  the  gold  is  easily  and  quickly  collected  iu 
the  troughs  of  the  riffies  ;  and  so  eftectually  that  the  residue  contains  scarcely  a  trace  of  gold. 

With  this  mill  the  company  have  recently  worked  some  600  tons  of  quartz  from  the 
Josephine  mine.  The  lowest  yield  at  any  clean  up  was  §31  per  ton;  the  highest  was 
$173  per  ton  ;  giving  an  average  of  $40  53  per  ton.  In  the  greater  portion  of  this  quartz 
not  a  particle  of  gold  could  be  discerned  before  crushing.  From  these  facts  it  will  readily 
appear  why  the  property  h;is  hitherto  paid  no  dividends. 

Captain  Henry  J.  Hall,  a  practical  and  experienced  quartz  miner,  has  now  charge  of  the 
miucs  and  mills  of  the  company,  and  is  adapting  the  eureka  gold-saving  process  to  all  the 
mills  of  the  estate.  The  aggregate  capacity  of  these  mills  under  former  niauagenient  was  292 
tons  daily,  or  about  7.500  tons  per  mouth,  a  capacity  which  still  exists.  The  mills  are  located 
near  the  Josephine,  Pine  Tree,  Mariposa,  Mount  Ophir,  and  Princeton  mines,  all  proved  to 
be  large,  well  defined,  and  inexhaustible  veins.  There  may  be  easily  taken  out  from  these 
five  mines,  at  the  present  time,  200  tons  of  gold  ore  per  day,  and  increased  on  the  present 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  25 

ExpovicMiocd  quartz  miners,  lainiliar  with  the  estate,  arc  almost  unanimous  iu 
the  opinion  that  the  Prineeton,  the  l*ine  Tree,  and  the  Josephine  mines  arc 
far  from  exhansteil,  but,  on  the  eontrary,  that  they  are  all  very  valuable,  and 
ouii^ht  to  be  made  to  pay  well,  and  that  tlie  failures  of  the  last  four  years  are  to 
Ix^  ascribed  mainly  to  bad  manai^emeut.  It  is  true  that  when  the  Mariposa 
company  took  possession  tlu;  mines  were  not  opened  in  advance  as  they  should 
have  been ;  but  they  were  opened,  the  position  of  the  jiay  chimneys  was  dcter- 
uiined,  the  hoisting"  works  and  })umiis  and  mills  were  in  working  order,  with 
capacity  to  crush  and  amalgamate  150  tons  of  rock  per  day ;  there  were  oxperi- 
euced  miners  ])resent,  lamiliar  with  the  character  of  each  vein ;  there  was  a  rail- 
road for  transporting  the  rock  of  two  of  the  principal  mines  to  the  mill ;  and 
there  were  improvements  that  were  indispensable,  and  that  could  not  have  been 
placed  there  for  less  than  a  cpiarter  of  a  million  dollars.  The  property,  how- 
ever, was  not  managed  pro])erly,  and  the  result  was  a  failure,  which  is  the  more 
remarkable  because  it  followed  immediately  upon  the  heels  of  the  most  brilliant 
success. 

l'iiiNcr>TOX. — The  Princeton  mine  has  been  one  of  the  most  prtxluctive  in] 
California,  and  has  been  noted  for  both  the  abundance  and  the  richness  of  its ' 
quartz.     For  a  time  it  yielded  -$90,000  per  month  from  milling  rock,  and  this  is 
more  than  any  other  mine  of  the  State  ever  did. 

The  mine  is  situated  about  half  way  between  the  ]\rariposa  and  the  Pino  Tree 
mines,  and  is  on  a  hill  easily  accessible.  The  course  of  the  vein  is  northwest 
and  southeast ;  the  dip,  5o°  northeast ;  the  thickness  varies  from  a  few  inches 
to  10  feet.  The  vein  has  been  opened  to  a  depth  of  560  feet  on  an  incline, 
and  200  feet  below  the  surface ;  drifts  have  been  run  1,200  feet  along  the  vein, 
and  at  tlie  deepest  workings  the  drifts  extend  500  feet.  The  richest  rock  was 
found  within  100  feet  of  the  surface,  where  the  pay  was  $70  per  ton  from  milling 
well,  besides  large  numbers  of  specimens,  of  which  it  is  said  that  not  less  than 
6100,000  in  value  were  stolen  by  the  miners.  Below  this  rich  mass  of  rock  the 
quartz  gradually  became  poorer,  and  there  were  spots  which  did  not  pay  for 
working ;  but  it  is  said  that  there  is  still  an  abundant  supply  of  good  milling 
rock  in  sight. 

Professor  W.  P.  Blake  made  a  report  on  the  mine  In  November,  ISGl,  and 
said :  • 

Tlio  veiu  is  composed  of  white  friable  quartz,  and  is  divided  into  parallel  layers  or  plates 
by  tbiu  slatej  films,  which  are  generally  charged  with  iine-grained  pyrites  and  i'ree  gold. 
The  body  ot  the  quartz  bears  white  vein  pyrites  crystallized  and  spread  in  irregular  patches 
and  a  small  portion  of  galena,  together  with  free  gold  in  irregular  ragged  ma&ses,  in  plates 
and  scales,  and  sometimes  crystals.  The  gold  appears  to  be  most  abundant  m  the  neighbor- 
hood ot  the  galena,  and  is  found  not  only  with  the  iron  jiyrites  striking  its  sheets  through  its 
substance,  but  entirely  isolated  from  it  and  enveloped  in  the  pure  white  quartz.  Some  of 
the  specimens  preserved  are  exceedingly  rich  and  beautiful,  and  just  before  my  examination 
of  the  veiu  some  superb  crystallizations  had  been  broken  out.  These  crystals  are  bunches 
of  octahedrons,  with  perfectly  flat  a>ul  highly  polished  faces  from  one-eighth  to  three-six- 
teenths of  an  inch  across,  and  are  attached  to  masses  of  white  quartz. 

openings  by  enlarging  the  working  facilities,  to  4,000  tons  per  day.  The  cost  of  mining  and 
reducing  the  ore  will  be  less  than  $10  per  ton,  and  may  yield  an  average  of  §40  per  ton.  The 
old  mills  have  produced  upwards  of  $:5,.^00,000.  Under  an  intelligent  system  of  working 
they  ought  to  have  yielded  over  $10,000,000. 

The  amount  of  prolits  from  the  estate  can  only  be  estimated  iu  proportion  to  the  number  of 
mills  provided  for  the  reduction  of  the  ores.  The  reader  may  draw  his  own  conclusions  from 
the  facts  and  figures  herewith  presented. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  the  representations  heretofore  made  by  the  nndersigncd  wero 
based  on  the  low  estimate  of  a  sure  gross  average  yield  of  $"20  per  ton,  by  the  new  reducing 
machinery.  The  present  working  shows  that  such  estimates  may  no  longer  be  regarded  as 
theoretical,  as  the  actual  results  fully  illustrate.  ThcywUl  bo  amply  confirmed  by  the  future 
of  this  great  property. 


26  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES  ' 

Professor  Blake  made  a  second  report  on  this  mine  in  December,  1864,  and 
said : 

It  is  evident  on  a  careful  examination  of  the  surface  tliat  there  is  a  want  *f  conformity  in 
direction  between  the  vein  and  the  slates.  The  slates  on  the  west  side  are  curved  towards 
the  vein  in  the  form  of  a  bow,  the  ends  of  the  curve  appearing  to  abut  against  the  vein  at 
both  ends,  the  vein  forming  in  its  line  of  outcrop,  with  respect  to  the  slates,  the  chord  of  an 
arc  There  is  also  a  want  of  conformity  in  direction  between  this  body  of  curved  slates  on 
the  west  side  of  the  vein  and  those  on  the  east  side  of  it,  showing  witli  most  distinctness  at 
the  north  end,  near  the  mouth  of  the  upper  drift.  On  the  east  side  the  trend  of  the  slates  is 
seen  to  vary  at  ditlcrent  places  from  north  45*^  west  to  north  93*^  west.  They  are  nearly  east 
and  west  at  the  north  end  of  the  vein.  *  *  *  There  is  also  a  want  of  conformity  between 
the  body  of  curved  slates  on  the  west  side  of  the  vein  and  the  slates  still  further  to  the  west, 
as  if  the  curved  body  of  slate  had  been  broken  from  some  otlier  place  and  forced  into  its 
present  position.  The  line  of  contact  is  not  very  distinct,  but  just  in  the  position  we  would 
expect  to  find  it  we  see  a  quartz  vein  which  seems  to  mark  the  place.  It  is  approximately 
parallel  with  the  Princeton  vein,  and  is  also  gold-bearing. 

This  want  of  cohformity  in  the  direction  of  the  slates  on  the  opposite  sides  of  the  vein  and 
with  the  course  of  the  vein  itself,  and  the  fact  that  the  ends  of  the  layers  of  slate  abut  against 
the  vein,  or  in  other  words,  that  the  vein  does  not  coincide  with  the  plane  of  the  bedding  or 
stratification  of  the  slates,  justifies  the  conclusion  that  it  is  a  fissure  vein  rather  than  a  bedded 
mass,  as  has  heretofore  been  generally  supposed.  It  evidently  occupies  the  line  of  break 
between  the  two  distinct  bodies  of  slate. 

The-  mineralogical  character  of  the  slates  on  the  opposite  sides  of  the  vein  is  also  different. 
The  slates  on  the  west  side  are  much  more  sandy  than  those  on  the  east,  which  are  argilla- 
ceous and  in  very  thin  layers  of  uniform  composition,  presenting  the  well-known  appearance 
and  character  of  roofing  slates.  There  are  several  layers  in  the  series  on  the  west  side  which 
might  be  called  sandstones  rather  than  slates.  There  are  also  in  connection  with  these  sandy 
bars  of  a  hard  argillaceous  rock,  with  an  obscure  slaty  structure  which  resists  weathering 
more  than  the  surrotindiug  portions  and  stands  out  in  well-defined  outcrops.  These  two 
bars  of  rock  are  each  from  six  to  eighteen  inches  in  thickness,  and  are  about  170  feet  apart. 

It  is  a  curious  fact  that  the  gold-bearing  part  of  the  vein  appears  to  liave  a  certain  relation 
to  these  peculiar  argillaceous  rocks  or  strata,  for  it  does  not  extend  beyond  the  line  of  contact 
of  these  strata  with  the  plane  of  the  vein.  So  also  in  tlie  northern  extension  of  the  Princeton 
vein,  half  a  mile  to  the  northwest,  at  the  Green  Gtilch  mine,  where  the  vein  was  productive, 
the  same  peculiar  rock  is  found  in  connection  with  the  vein  on  the  west  side. 

Near  the  mill  the  vein  splits  and  the  two  branches  run  ofF  southeastward 
ncarljr  parallel  with  one  another.  At  a  distance  of  a  mile  they  are  about  300 
yards  apart.  These  branches  have  not  been  well  explored  or  prospected,  ^o  not 
much  is  known  of  their  character.  On  the  main  vein  there  are  seven  shafts  and 
a  great  ntnnbcr  of  workings  of  different  classes,  such  as  might  be  expected  of  a 
mine  that  has  juelded  $4,000,000  and  sustained  a  considerable  towni.  From 
January,  1859,  till  June,  1860,  Steptoe  and  Ividgway  had  charge  of  the  mine, 
and  extracted  2,000  tons,  which  averaged  818  per  ton.  From  June  1,  1860, 
till  November  of  the  same  year,  under  the  management  of  Park,  23,916  tons  of 
quartz  were  crushed,  yielding  8527,633,  an  average  of  822  25  per  ton.  In  1862 
and  1863  the  producfion  was  121,000  tons  of  quartz  and  82,000.000  of  bullion, 
averaging  816  50.  In  1864  the  yield  of  bullion  was  8243,707.  In  1863, 
when  the  mill  was  working  rock  which  yielded  853,  the  tailings,  according  to 
assay,  contained  $13  56  i)er  ton.  The  pay  was  distributed  rather  in  an  irregu- 
lar mass  than  in  a  chimney;  but  Professor  Blake  expressed  the  opinion  in  his 
report  of  1864  that  there  was  a  chimney,  and  that  its  dip  was  18°  to  the  horizon. 

The  Princeton  mill  has  24  stamps,  and  is  the  smallest  on  the  iMariposa  estate, 
at  least  of  those  owned,  erected,  and  worked  l)y  the  ^Mariposa  company.  The 
capacity  of  the  mine  hir  exceeds  that  of  the  mills,  and  while  the  former  Avas  in 
a  productive  condition  much  of  the  ore  was  sent  toother  uiills.  Tlie  gold  in 
the  quartz  is  coarse  and  is  easily  caught  in  the  battery,  or  at  least  most  of  it ; 
but  the  assays  of  the  tailings  show  that  great  quantities  of  it  were  lost.  The 
heap  of  tailings  at  the  mill  is  immense,  and  it  will  no  doubt  be  worked  over  at 
some  day  with  a  profit,  if  not  all  blowni  awa}'.  The  sand  l)eing  fine  many 
poimds  of  it  are  earned  off  every  hoiu:  when  the  wind  blows  in  summer.     The 


"WEST    OF    TITE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  27 

mill  was  driven  l\v  steam.  The  stamps  woi;2:li  5/50  pounds  and  made  70  drops 
per  minute.     Ijotli  mine  and  mill  are  now  idle. 

TiiK  PiXE  Tkek. — The  l^ino  Tree  mine,  eontiguous  to  the  .Tose])hine,  and 
thirteen  miles  from  the  toAvn  of  Mariposa,  is  considered  to  be  on  the  main  mother 
lode,  which  runs  northwest  and  southeast,  dips  to  the  northeast,  and  is  here  in 
places  40  feet  thick.  The  ore  is  extracted  through  tunnels  and  carried  down  to 
the  mills  on  :i  railroad.  The  working's  arc  500  feet  deep  and  1,000  feet  long  in 
the  vein.  Tliere  arc  seven  ]iay  chimneys,  which  vary  in  length,  horizontally, 
from  40  to  200  feet.  The  rock  in  each  chimney  has  a  peculiar  color  or  apjtear- 
ance,  so  that  persons  familiar  with  the  mine  could  tell  at  a  glance  from  Avhich  a 
])iece  of  quartz  came.  The  coarsest  gold  was  found  in  the  narrowest  chimney. 
In  three  vears  previ(?ius  to  May,  1863,  the  Pine  Tree  and  Josephine  mines  pro- 
duced 4o'000  tons  of  ore  and  §350,000  in  bullion,  an  average  of  $7  77  per  ton. 
In  1860  tliese  mines  produced  1:2,154  tons  and  $113,530,  or  $9  34  ])er  ton;  in 
1861,  21,576  tons  and  $173,810,  or  $8  05  per  ton;  in  1862,  when  the  dam  was 
carried  away  by  the  flood,  nothing ;  and  in  1863,  previous  to  June,  6,000  tons 
and  $35,000,  or  $5  83  per  ton.  The  total  expense  was  $5  per  ton  for  a  portion 
of  the  time  at  leasf,  the  cost  of  transportation  by  car  being  72  cents.  In  1864 
the  Pine  Tree  yielded  $07,940.  In  December,  1863,  Avhen  the  ore  paid  $29  to 
the  ton,  the  refuse  tailings  assayed  $16  to  the  ton,  showing  a  great  waste. 
There  is  a  large  quantity  of  good  ore  now  in  sight  in  the  mine. 

The  particles  of  gold  in  the  Pine  Tree  quartz  arc  extremely  fine,  usually  so 
small  as  to  be  invisible  to  the  naked  eye.  As  a  consequence  it  is  very  dilKcult 
to' catch  the  metal  in  the  process  of  amalgamation,  and  l^rofessor  Ashburner,  in 
a  report  made  in  Max,  1864,  said  that  70  per  cent,  of  the  gold  in  the  quartz 
worked  in  the  Benton  mills  was  lost,  or,  in  other  words,  only  30  per  cent,  of  it 
was  saved.  This  fact  was  ascertained  by  ''  a  series  of  assays  upon  the  tailings 
which  have  been  allowed  to  run  to  waste." 

In  the  same  report  ho  said,  "■  I  think  the  Josephine  vein,  as  it  is  called,  is 
nothing  more  than  a  branch  from  the  Pine  Tree,  and  the  two  systems  of  workings, 
as  they  have  never  been  carried  on  in  connection,  have  given  rise  to  two  mines." 

Dr.  J.  Adell)erg  made  a  report  on  the  mining  property  of  the  Mariposa  grant 
in  August,  1860,  and  in  it  he  said  : 

These  two  veins  run  parallel  on  tlio  whole,  but  sometimps  a  little  cliver<^inpr,  FOmetimes  a 
little  converfring: ;  sometimes  ruiininp:  toojether  and  forniiiif^  two  distinct  divisions  of  one 
vein.  They  belong  to  distinct  {^eolot;ical  periods,  the  Pine  Tree  bcintr  earlier  and  the  Jose- 
phine of  more  recent  formation.  Tlie  ores  of  both  veins  arc  very  distnict,  the  older  vein 
bearing,  in  those  depths  now  kiid  open,  mostly  oxyds  and  carbonates,  (among  which  the 
blue  and  green  carbonate  of  copper  is  very  cliaracteiistic.)  and  the  Josephine,  or  more 
recently  formed  vein,  bearing  the  iron  and  copper  as  snlphurets  only.  The  eruption  of  gold- 
bearing  quartz  has  formed  here  veins  which  are  equalled  in  extent  by  no  other  known  gold- 
bearing  quartz  vein. 

Messrs.  Gamett  and  Wakelee,  who  examined  the  Pine  Tree  and  Josephine 
mines  in  May,  1863,  expressed  tlie  opinion  that  they  did  not  contain  any  con- 
siderable bodV  of  ore  then  in  sight  to  pay  by  the  modes  of  amalgamation  in  use 
at  that  time,  and  the  only  hopefor  making  these  mines  *'  an  active  element  of 
production  instead  of  a  consuming  expense"  lay  in  improvements  in  the  system 
of  working  the  ores. 

Josephine. — The  Josephine  mine  is  on  a  mountain  side,  1,600  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  Merced  nver.  The  vein  runs  northwest  and  southeast,  and  dips  to 
the  northeast.  Professor  Silliman  says  it  is  a  contact  deposit  between  serpentine 
and  shale  ;  but  Mr.  Kelten,  who  has  been  a  superintending  miner  in  the  Josephine 
for  more  than  ten  years,  says  that  in  some  places  there  is  green  stone,  and  in 
others  slate  on  both  sides,  and  it  is  richer  in  tlic  slate  than  the  green  stone.  There 
is  no  gouge  in  the  green  stone.  The  lode  varies  in  width  from  5  to  30 
feet,  averaging  more  than  10.  In  those  places  where  the  vein  is  small  the 
quaitz  is  mixed  with  slate.     The  mine  has  been  worked  through  three  tunnels, 


28  EESOURCES    OF   STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

tte  upper  one  being  100  feet  above,  and  thr?  lower  180  feet  below  tlie  middle 
tunnel  or  Black  drift,  as  it  is  called.  The  drifts  have  been  ran  500  feet  in  the 
lode,  and  the  depth  of  the  workings  perpendicularly  is  520  feet. 

The  pay-rock  has  been  found  in  seven  chimneys,  which  arc  from  40  to  100 
feet  in  length  horizontally,  and  are  separated  by  ban-en  streaks  from  4  to  6  feet 
long  in  the  drifts.  The  pay  chutes  dip  45°  to  the  southeast;  but  the  dip  is  less 
regular  on  the  under  than  on  the  upper  side  of  the  chute.  The  richest  deposit 
is  found  along  the  foot  wall,  and  a  small  streak  of  pay  is  found  along  the  foot 
wall  in  the  barren  chutes.  The  Josephine  ore  has  usually  been  worked  with 
that  from  the  Pine  Tree  in  the  Benton  mill,  so  that  separate  acconnts  have  not 
been  kept  of  most  of  the  workings.  The  Josephine  vein  is  considered  a  branch 
of  the  mother  quartz  lode,  from  which  it  separates  at  the  Josephine  mine,  running 
northwestward  nearly  parallel  with  the  main  vein.  At  a  distance  of  half  a  mile 
fi-om  the  fork  they  are  about  300  feet  apart.  Although  the  mine  is  now  lying 
idle,  miners  say  that  there  is  a  large  quantity  of  S20  rock  in  sight. 

The  indigo  vein,  so  called  because  of  the  peculiar  blue  color  of  the  rock,  is  4 
feet  wide,  and  450  feet  west  of  the  Josephine  mine.  The  vein  stone  is  talcose, 
and  in  places  is  rich  in  gold.  It  is  called  India-rubber  rock 'by  the  miners,  and 
is  difficult  to  break  with  the  hammer,  but  tears  out  well  when  blasted.  The 
vein  has  not  been  opened,  but  a  tunnel  has  been  run  through  it,  and  it  has  been 
prospected  a  little  in  spots  on  the  surface. 

Mariposa. — The  Mariposa  mine  is  situated  on  the  eastern  border  of  the  to^-n 
of  Mariposa,  on  the  Mariposa  lode,  the  direction  of  which  is  nearly  oast  and  west, 
the  dip  51°  south,  and  the  width  of  the  main  vein  from  four  to  eight  feet.  Near 
the  mill  the  vein  forks,  one  prong  running  westward  in  the  line  of  the  maine  lode, 
and  the  other  running  north  of  west.  At  a  distance  of  300  yards  from  the  forks, 
the  two  prongs  are  not  more  than  60  yards  apart.  Each  fork  is  about  3  feet 
thick.  The  rock  is  a  white  ribbon  quartz ;  the  walls  are  a  black  talcose  slate. 
There  is  but  little  gouge,  and  the  quartz  is  so  hard  that  no  progress  can  be  made 
without  blasting.  East  of  the  fork  the  gold  is  in  fine  particles,  and  is  evenly 
distributed  through  the  pay  chute,  while  west  of  the  fork  the  gold  is  collected 
in  rich  pockets,  which  are  separated  from  one  another  by  large  masses  of  very 
poor  quartz.  These  pockets  contain  almost  in\'ariably  arseniurets  of  iron,  accona- 
l^anied  by  pyrites.  The  presence  of  these  minerals  is  considered  a  certain  siga 
that  a  good  deposit  of  gold  is  not  far  distant.  One  pocket  paid  $30,000,  another 
$15,000,  and  numerous  other  sums,  varying  from  SlOO  to  $1,000.  The  great 
richness  of  the  vein  is  proved  by  the  facts  that  the  decomposed  quartz  at  the 
suiface  was  worked  or  washed  for  a  distance  of  half  a  mile,  the  ravines  imme- 
diately below  the  lode  were  famous  for  their  richness,  and  drifts  have  been  run 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  under  ground.  It  is  said  before  Eremont  ol)tained  posses- 
sion, squatters  took  $200,000  from  the  mine.  The  quartz  taken  out  in  1864 
averaged  $25  per  ton ;  but  afterwards  the  average  yield  was  only  $11.  I*ersons 
familiar  with  the  mine  say  an  abundance  of  rock  might  be  obtained  to  yield 
$12  or  $15.  Before  the  sale  of  the  grant  to  the  Mariposa  company  the  mine 
was  leased  to  Mr.  Barnett,  who  paid  10  per  cent,  of  the  gross  yield,  a  very  good 
share,  and  afterwards  when  he  was  told  that  he  could  not  have  the  property  on 
those  terms  he  offered  to  pay  30  per  cent,  of  the  gross  yield,  and  to  give  good 
bonds.  His  offer  was  rejected,  and  the  mine  is  now  idle.  ilr.  Barnett  worked 
the  mine  on  a  very  economical  plan.  His  stamps  had  wooden  stems ;  he  amal- 
gamated in  aiTastras,  and  his  mortar  was  fed  from  a  hopper  or  self-feeder.  Little 
hand  labor  was  done  in  the  mill  in  the  daytime,  and  none  at  all  at  night.  Indeed, 
everybody  left  the  mill  at  supper  tin>e,  and  it  was  allowed  to  run  without  super- 
vision till  morning.  The  quartz  was  taken  out  under  Barnett's  directions,  who 
having  spent  many  years  at  the  place  was  thoroughly  familiar  with  it;  and  before 
going  to  the  mill,  all  the  baiTcn  pieces  were  rejected.  It  was  supposed  that  the 
mine  would  pay  better  if  it  were  worked  on  a  larger  scale,  so  the  mill  that  had 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  29 

ptood  at  the  Green  Gulcli  mill  of  10  n^tamps  was  moved  to  the  INfaviposa  inino 
in  1SG4,  in  aceordaneo  with  the  recommendations  of  Professor  Ashburuer. 
Professor  Silliman,  in  a  report  made  in  May,  1SG4,  said : 

I  feel  eouviiK'cd  tlmt  llio  Mariposa  vein  is,  on  tlio  wliole,  tlio  most  rem arlv able  auriferous 
vein  yet  developed  on  tlio  Mariposa  estate,  uiid  if  tlic  half  wiiich  is  believed  of  it  by  those 
who  know  it  best  should  prove  true,  it  will  alone  almost  sustain  the  estate.  The  mill  now 
ereefiniT  iu  Mariposa  creek  is  the  same  which  has  bceu  removed  from  Green  Gulch,  where, 
as  it  jiroved,  there  was  no  further  use  for  it.  Mr.  Ashburuer  haviufj  examiued  and  reported 
apjiroviuply  on  this  removal,  1  have  not  felt  it  needful  to  re-examine  the  evidence,  the  decision 
undoulitedly  being-  a  wise  one.  The  fault  of  the  other  mills  (except  the  Princeton)  of  being 
set  too  low  has  been  remedied  here,  and  with  a  well-considered  system  of  amalf^amation, 
there  can  be  no  doubt  that  excellent  results  will  be  arrived  at  in  working  the  mill  iu  its  new 
and  well-chosen  position,  nor  can  there  be  any  doubt  that  the  mill  will  receive  an  ample 
supply  of  quartz  to  engage  it  fully  in  crushing. 

The  gross  yield  of  the  mine  in  1864  was  $84,948  ;  but  there  was  no  profit,  and 
among  the  intelligent  miners  in  the  neighborhood  there  is  much  doubt  whether 
enough  pay  quartz  could  bo  obtained  to  keep  a  40-stamp  mill  going. 

Messrs.  Wakelee  and  Garnett  in  their  report  on  the  grant  say : 

The  Mariposa  vein  we  examiued  more  particularly,  as  it  has  been  quite  celebrated  for  the 
extraordinary  richness  of  its  pockets  of  massive  gold.  The  vein  consists  of  a  main  trunk 
and  two  branches.  It  is  iu  the  latter  that  these  deposits  have  been  fouud.  They  have  not 
been  worked  upon  any  regular  system,  but  have  beeu  much  burrowed  into  by  different  par- 
ties iu  quest  of  these  rich  pockets.  The  quartz  itself  is  almost  entirely  destitute  of  any  trace 
of  metal,  and  its  value  seems  to  consist  entirely  of  these  massive  deposits.  It  is  needless  to 
add,  perhaps,  that  from  this  peculiaiity  it  furnishes  a  very  uncertain  basis  for  any  extensive 
system  of  mining.  The  main  trurdt  of  this  vein  differs  from  its  branches,  and  the  quartz 
found  iu  it  is  uniformly  charged  with  the  metal.  The  ores  yield,  according  to  the  best  infor- 
mation we  could  obtain,  about  .$16  per  ton. 

Green  Gflch. — The  Green  Gulcli  mine,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Princeton, 
lias  been  explored  bv  a  shaft  200  feet  deep,  and  by  drifts  running  400  feet 
h;)ri^ontal,  and  the  conclusion  is  that  the  deposits  of  auriferous  quartz  are  not 
sutficiiMitly  near  together  to  jtay  for  working.  The  vein  is  ab.out  three  feet  thick, 
.  but  the  quartz  is  mixed  in  places  with  slate,  which  reduces  the  yield  to  a  point 
so  low  that  there  is  no  margin  for  profit.  Some  rich  bunches  of  rock  have  been 
found,  and  under  the  encouragement  given  by  them  a  40-stainp  mill  was 
erected,  and  new  explorations  were  undertaken ;  but  the  rich  bunches  were  too 
far  apart,  and  the  mill  was  afterwards  removed  to  the  Mariposa  mine.  The  yield 
of  the  Green  Gulch  mine  iu  1864  was  $19,509.  In  Uecember,  1863,  while  the 
rock  was  yielding  $38  per  ton,  an  assay  of  the  tailings  showed  that  they  con- 
tained $6  50  per  ton. 

Other  Mixes  ox  the  JFARTrosA  Est.ite. — The  Oso  mine,  half  a  mile  from 
Bear  valley,  is  in  a  very  narrow  vein  of  decomposed  talcose  matter,  ranning 
across  the  slates.  It  was  very  rich  near  the  pxuface,  and  according  to  rumor  the 
sum  of  $400,000  was  taken  from  a  shaft  50  feet  deep  and  7  feet  long  on  the  vein. 
No  work  has  been  done  at  the  jilace  for  years. 

Tke  New  Britain  or  Missouri  mine  is  two  miles  northwest  of  the  town  of  Mari- 
posa. The  vein  averages  about  two  feet  and  a  half  thick,  runs  east  and  west, 
dips  to  the  south,  and  can  be  traced  on  the  surface  by  croppings  for  four  or  five 
miles.  The  vein  stone  is  a  soft  white  and  yellow  quartz,  which  l)reaks  up  like 
slaked  lime  when  exposed  to  the  air.  The  walls  are  of  hard  black  slate.  The 
only  pay  chimney  Avhich  has  been  worked  dips  to  the  east  with  an  angle  of  50°. 
U'he  quartz  in  this  chute  has  been  taken  out  to  a  depth  of  80  feet,  and  it  con- 
tained a  number  of  very  rich  })ockets,  one  of  which  was  taken  out  by  ilr.  Barnett, 
and  yielded~$52,000,  at  an  expense  of  85,000.  In  one  day  and  a  half  he  took 
out  $9,000.     Professor  Silliman  says  it  is  a  "■  very  promising  vein." 

The  Mt.  Oi»hir  mine  is  on  the  mother  or  Pine  Tree  lode ;  has  been  worked 
extensively,  and  never  rivalled  the  Princeton,  Pine  Tree,  Josephine  or  Mariposa 
mine  in  the  amount  of  production.  The  yield  in  1864  wa.s  $12,540.  The  Mt. 
Ophir  mill  ht^s  28  stamps,  now  idle. 


30  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

MaPvIPOSA  Mills. — The  Benton  mills,  Luilt  to  work  the  quartz  from  the  Pine 
Tree  and  Josephine  mines,  stands  in  a  deep  canon  on  the  Mercer  river,  by  the 
■vvatcr  of  which  they  were  driven;  but  the  dam  which  supplied  the  water  Avas 
can-ied  oft'  by  a  flood,  and  the  mills  have  been  standing  idle.  The  number  of 
stamps  is  G4. 

The  Bear  Valley  mill  has  12  stamps.  At  this  mill  the  Lundgren  pulverizer 
and  the  Rj'erson  amalgamator  are  now  being  used. 

The  Lundgren  pulverizer  is  a  barrel  five  feet  in  diameter  and  three  feet  in 
length,  inade  of  boiler  iron  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick,  heavily  riveted. 
Inside,  the  barrel  is  shod  with  iron  shoes  an  inch  thick.  A  door  a  foot  wide 
and  two  feet  long  is  placed  lengthwise  on  the  side  of  the  barrel.  There  are  two 
of  these  Itarrels  at  the  Bear  Valley  mill,  and  the  cost  of  the  two  with  their  gear- 
ing was  $2,300 ;  but  if  many  were  demanded  they  could  no  doubt  be  made  for 
$1,000  each.  The  barrels  revolve  horizontally,  making  24  revolutions  per 
minute,  and  requiring  a  six-horse  power  engine  for  two  of  them.  A  charge 
i;;  800.  pounds  of  quartz  and  2,400  pounds  of  ounce  musket  balls  made  of  chilled 
iron.  The  quartz,  previous  to  going  into  the  barrel,  is  crushed  to  about  the  size 
of  grains  of  wheat,  and  after  being  in  the  baiTel  one  hour  comes  out  an  impal- 
pal>le  powder,  as  fine  as  the  finest  flour.  The  powder  is  so  fine  that  if 'it  were 
pounded  dry  in  the  open  air  much  of  it  would  float  away.  The  thijroughness  of 
the  pulverization  is  claimed  to  be  the  great  advantage  of  this  machine. 

The  quartz  powder  is  transferred  from  the  baiTel  into  the  Ryersou  amalga- 
mator, an  upright  barrel,  made  of  strong  boiler  iron,  with  a  bottom  shaped  like 
an  inverted  cone,  round  which  winds  a  pipe  pierced  with  a  number  of  little  holes. 
The  barrel  being  charged  and  closed,  superheated  steam  is  thrown  in  and  then 
quicksilver,  wliicli  is  converted  into  vapor  and  made  to  pervade  the  whole  mass. 
A  cold  Ixitl)  condenses  the  quicksilver,  and  the  charge  is  chscharged  into  a  shak- 
ing table  or  settler. 

The  amount  worked  daily  l)y  these  processes  is  nine  tons  of  Josephine  ore,  and 
the  yield  varies  from  $39  to  8173  per  ton,  with  an  average  of  845,  at  an  expense 
of  86  50  per  ton.  The  rock  thus  worked  is  taken  without  selection  from  the  pay 
chimney,  and  the  body  of  ore  now  in  sight,  and  itresuined  to  be  of  the  same  quality, 
is  280  feet  high,  45  feet  wide  longitudinally  on  the  same  vein,  and  3  feet  thick — 
an  amount  equivalent  to  940  tons.  It  is  i)rcsumed  that  the  body  of  the  quartz 
of  that  quality  is  much  more  extensive,  both  horizontally  and  vertically,  than 
the  present  shafts  have  gone. 

The  mills  of  tho  Mariposa  estate  are  the  Benton,  64  stamps;  the  Mariposa,  28 
stamps;  tlie  Motmt  Ophir,  28  stamps;  the  Princeton,  24  stamps,  and  tho  Bear 
vallev,  12  stamps — making  156  stamps  in  all. 

The  yield  of  the  estate  was  $474,000  in  1860;  $642,000  in  1861;  $522,000 
in  1 862';  $385,000  (with  $50,000  net  per  month)  in  the  first  five  moijths  of  1863 ; 
8481,832  in  1864;  and  $230,000  in  1865.  During  the  first  half  of  1867  the 
mines  and  mills  all  stood  idle;  but  of  late  a  little  work  has  been  done  with  the 
Ilyerson  and  Linulgren  processes. 

"^The  Stockton  cn.'ck  null,  used  by  ^Mr.  Barnett  for  working  the  quartz  of  the 
Mariposa  mine  while  ho  was  lessee,  contains  ten  st^imps,  v.ith  square  wooden 
stems  and  wooden  collars,  driven  by  water  and  a  wooden  wheel.  Tliero  waa  a 
soK-feeder  or  hopper  to  supply  the  butteries  with  quartz,  and  the  pulp,  after  leav- 
ing the  mortar,  was  ground  in  an  arrastra.  Tlie  mill  is  a  nule  cast  of  Mariposa, 
and  has  been  idle  for  two  years. 

HuNTEii's  Vallev,  Oaks  and  Bccsc. — The  Oaks  and  Reese  mine,  called  also 
the  Potts,  is  3,000  fei-t  long,  in  Hunter's  valley,  16  miles  northwest  of  the 
county  seat.  The  claim  includes  two  veins,  1,200  feet  on  one  which  runs  north- 
east and  southwest  and  dips  to  the  southeast  at  an  angle  of  ^3"^,  and  1,600  feet 
on  another  which  runs  northeast  and  southwest.  The  former  is  one  of  a  seiies 
of  parallel  veins;  the  latter  is  known  as  the  Blue  Lead,  and  it  is  remarkable, 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  31 

because  the  numerous  cross  leads  runuiiii;'  at  riglit  ani;"les  arc  fouiul  only  soutU 
ot"  it,  and  ajipear  to  bo  cut  oil"  by  it.  Tlio  Blue  Lead  is  nearly  vertical,  from 
12  to  '30  inches  wide,  yields  $4:5  to  the  ton,  and  has  been  opened  to  a  dejjth 
of  l(ja  feet  and  a  length  of  150  feet.  The  other  vein  is  six  feet  wide,  yiehls 
$20  to  the  ton,  has  been  opened  to  a  depth  of  1G5  feet,  and  to  a  length  of  50 
feet.  The  mine  has  been  worked  with  a  iour-stanij)  mill,  but  a  new  twelve-stamp 
mill  has  been  erected,  and  it  began  to  run  on  the  7th  of  October.  The  co])per 
aprons  below  the  battery  are  i)lated  with  silver,  with  which  mercury  fonns  an 
amalgam  more  readily  than  with  copper,  and  the  apron  will  be  in  the  highest 
state  of  efficiency  immediately,  whereas  several  weeks'  time  would  be  required  if 
the  surface  wore  of  copper.  Tlio  plating  is  done  by  galvanism  and  cost  $5  per 
squai'e  foot.  Baux  and  Guiod's  pans  are  used  for  grinding.  The  mill  is  driven 
by  steam,  alid  also  the  hoisting  apparatus.  The  quartz  is  let  down  from  the 
mouth  of  the  mine  to  the  mill  in  a  tramway,  and  the  loaded  cars  as  they  go  down 
pull  up  tho  empty  ones.  The  transportation  does  not  cost  more  than  81  50  per 
day.     The  yield  of  tho  mine  has  been  $30,000.     A  patent  has  been  applied  for. 

The  Floyd  mine  on  one  of  the  southern  spurs  of  the  Blue  Lead  has  paid  well, 
but  now  produces  nothing. 

Tho  same  remark  applies  to  the  Carson  mine,  which  has  a  five-stamp  mill 
standing  idle. 

Eppeusox. — The  Eppereon  mine  on  Boar  creek,  cix  miles  east  of  Coulterville, 
is  on  a  vein  which  runs  east  and  west  and  dips  to  the  north.  There  is  a  shaft 
GO  feet  deep,  and  a  drift  20  feet  long  has  been  run  on  tho  lode.  About  200  tons 
have  been  worked,  and  tho  yield  was  from  §9  to  $13  per  ton.  There  is  a  nine- 
stamp  mill  which,  with  tho  mine,  is  standing  idle. 

Black. — Tho  Black  mine  is  sixteen  miles  eastward  from  Coulterville,  on  the 
Blue  Lead,  wdiich  runs  east  and  west  and  dips  to  tho  south.  The  hanging  wall 
is  mountain  limestone  and  the  foot  wall  yellow  slate,  and  the  vein  stone  contains 
marble.  The  average  yield  is  about  $40  per  ton,  or  was  for  all  the  work  done. 
Tho  mine  has  been  standing  idle  now  for  several  years  on  account  of  the  water, 
which  at  times  has  risen  nearly  to  tho  surface.  A  shaft  was  sunk  to  a  depth  of 
170  feet.     There  is  no  mill;  all  the  crushing  was  done  Avith  an  arrastra. 

Ferguson. — The  Fei-guson  mine,  25  miles  eastward  from  Coulterville,  has 
been  worked  five  or  six  years.  The  ore  yields  from  $25  to  $100  j^ier  ton,  and 
is  worked  in  a  ten-stamp  mill  driven  by  water. 

Louisiana. — The  Louisiana  mine,  ten  miles  eastward  from  Coulterville,  is 
3,600  feet  long,  on  a  vein  that  runs  northwest  and  southeast,  dips  to  the  north- 
east, and  has  a  width  varying  from  2  to  IG  feet.  Tho  quartz  contains  sulplnu'cts 
of  iron,  zinc  and  lead.  The  free  gold  amounts  to  $6  or  $8  per  ton.  The  vein 
has  been  opened  to  a  depth  of  140  feet  and  a  length  of  130  feet  by  drifts  from 
tho  bottom  of  the  main  shaft;  but  there  are  a  number  of  shafts  15  or  20  feet 
deep,  and  gold  has  been  found  in  all  of  them.  The  oro  is  easily  extracted,  but 
the  slate  walls  require  much  timber  to  support  them.  Along  the  foot  wall  there 
is  a  streak  of  soft  yellow  sandstone  six  or  eight  inches  thick.  Tho  mine  makes 
much  water,  and  at  the  first  of  June  the  pump  hoisted  37,000  gallons  daily. 
There  is  a  10-stamp  mill  which  has  lam  idle  for  several  years,  but  has  lately 
eomracncod  to  run  again. 

Flaxnigan. — The  Flannigan  mine,  10  miles  eastward  fi-om  Coulterville,  was 
discovered  in  July,  1861,  near  the  summit  of  a  ridge,  at  an  elevation  of  about 
3,000  feet  above  the  sea.  A  miner  working  a  placer  claim  in  a  gulley  f<jund  a 
rich  spot,  where  he  picked  up,  among  other  pieces,  a  nugget  that  weighed  an 
ounce  and  a  boulder  as  large  as  a  man's  head  containing  $87.  lie  searched  for 
"  a  quartz  vein  and  found  this  one.  It  runs  north  and  south,  cuts  across  the  slates, 
dips  to  the  west,  and  is  live  feet  wide.  There  are  smooth  slate  walls  on  both 
sides,  and  there  is  a  putty  gouge  three  inches  thick.  All  the  rock  so  far  found 
is  rich  enough  to  pay,  and  tho  average  yield  is  $35.     The  mine  has  been  worked 


32  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

witli  an  arrastva  for  six  yeJirs,  but  there  are  now  500  tons  of  ore  stacked  up  at 
tlie  mouth  of  the  tunnel,  and  preparations  are  being  made  for  the  erection  of  a 
ten-stamp  milL  The  quartz  is  taken  out  through  a  cross  tunnel  175  feet  long, 
and  from  that  drifts  have  been  run  225  feet  on  the  vein,  and  a  shaft  has  been 
sunk  50  feet.  A  horse  is  found  in  one  part  of  the  lode.  The  quartz  is  white, 
and  much  of  it  slakes  when  exposed  to  the  air.  The  crushing  has  been  done 
heretofore  by  two  arrastras,  and  the  total  expense  per  ton  has  been  less  than  $5. 
The  cost  of  crushing  and  amalgamating  in  the  arrastra  is  estimated  at  $3  50  per 
ton,  and  of  extraction  at  81. 

CowAKD. — The  Coward  mine,  12  miles  eastward  from  Coulterville,  was 
located  in  1S5S,  and  has  been  worked  constantly  since.  The  first  owner,  a  Mr. 
Funk,  fell  from  the  wheel  the  day  the  mill  started,  and  was  killed  by  the  fall. 
H.  G.  Coward  is  the  present  owner.  The  vein  runs  east  and  west,  dips  to  the 
north  at  an  angle  of  45°,  and  is  four  feet  wide  in  the  middle  of  the  pay  chimneys, 
which  become  narrower  gradually  in  each  direction  horizontally  as  they  pinch 
out.  These  chimne3^s  are  two  in  number,  each  about  100  feet  long,  and  they  dip 
to  the  east  at  an  angle  of  40°.  The  width  is  very  regular  in  going  down  with  the 
dip.  They  had  been  worked  to  a  depth  of  170  feet.  The  walls  are  of  smooth 
black  slate,  and  there  is  a  black  putty  gouge.  Most  of  the  gold  is  found  near 
one  wall  or  the  other,  and  sometimes  on  both,  but  in  places  where  a  horse  is 
found  in  the  vein  the  gold  is  all  confined  to  one  side.  The  average  yield  is,  and 
has  been  constantly,  about  840  per  ton.  The  quartz  contains  little  pyrites,  and 
the  tailings  have  never  been  assayed.  There  is,  or  was  in  May,  a  five-stamp 
mill,  which  was  to  be  abandoned,  and  a  new  ten-stamp  mill  was  to  be  erected 
on  the  north  fork  of  the  Merecde,  one  mile  from  the  mine.  The  dam  and  flume 
were  to  cost  8600,  and  the  wagon  road  81,000.     Ten  or  12  men  were  employed. 

Calico. — The  Calico  mine,  on  the  same  lode  as  the  Cherokee,  has  been 
opened  by  a  tunnel  IGO  feet  long,  and  a  drift  of  35  feet  in  pay  rock  estimated 
to  yield  $20  per  ton.  No  mill  has  been  erected,  nor  has  any  of  the  rock  been 
crushed. 

Compromise. — The  Compromise  mine,  on  a  small  vein  near  the  Goodwin,  was 
worked  for  two  years  with  a  loss. 

Makble  Spring. — The  Marble  Spring  mincj  16  miles  eastward  from 
Coulterville,  was  discovered  in  1851,  and  a  five-stamp  mill  was  erected  there. 
The  first  owner  found  it  unprofitable,  and  he  sold  to  a  gentleman  who  kept  it 
going  for  seven  or  eight  years,  part  of  the  time  at  a  profit,  and  he  sold  to  others 
who  spent  815,000  in  experiments  and  lost  money,  though  the  rock  yielded  825 
per  ton.  The  mine  is  now  the  property  of  H.  G.  Coward  and  others  who  have 
lately  reopened  it.  The  vein  is  three  feet  thick,  runs  northwest  and  southeast, 
and  dips  to  the  east.  The  pa}^  chimney  dips  to  the  southeast.  The  lode  con- 
tains pockets  in  which  the  gold  is  very  coarse,  and  is  distributed  in  beautiful 
threads  through  a  compact  bluish  quartz,  makiiig  togc^ther  the  finest  material  for 
"  quartz  jewelry"  in  the  State.  The  main  tunnel  is  600  feet  long.  The  old  mill 
has  been  moved  away.  The  mine  is  at  a  high'  elevation,  near  the  summit  of  a 
mountain. 

CiiEUOKEE. — The  Cherokee  mine,  near  the  Goodwin,  was  discovered  by  a 
Cherokee  named  llogcrs,  in  1857,  and  was  very  rich  at  the  surface.  Some  of 
the  gold  was  coarse  enough  to  be  pounded  out  in  a  hand  mortar.  The  rock 
worked  in  arrastras  averaged  8100  per  ton.  In  1859  a  steam  mill  with  eight 
stamps  and  two  arrastras  was  erected,  and  the  rock  yielded  835  per  ton  for  about 
a  year,  and  then  work  stopped.  The  mill  was  sold  at  sheriff's  sale  and  moved 
away,  and  nothing  has  been  done  at  the  pla(;e  since.  The  deepest  workings 
were  through  a  tunnel  400  feet  long,  and  anotlit'r  lower  tunnel  was  commenced,  but 
the  mine  was  abandoned  before  it  reached  the  lode.  As  the  workmen  who  were 
employed  have  all  left  it  is  diflicult  to  get  any  accurate  infoi-mation ;  but  some 
miners  in  the  neighborhood  say  that  the  mine  was  worked  in  a  careless  manner  j 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  33 

that  the  proprietors  S(piamlere(l  their  money,  and  that  althoiii^li  tliere  was  a  horse 
in  the  htweji^t  w<n-kin«;-s,  the  coinplction  of  the  lower  tunnel  would  in  all  proba- 
Itility  have  struek  the  lode  below  the  horse.  The  vein  avenigcs  two  feet  wide, 
runs  east  and  west  and  dips  to  the  north.     The  pay  chimneys  dip  to  the  east. 

SrriMEE. — The  Shimer  mine,  10  miles  east  of  Coulterville,  was  discovered 
in  1858  by  a  miner  who,  while  dij^ging  a  ditch  for  placer  mining',  found  some 
rich  boulders  of  (piartz,  and  on  searching  he  found  the  lode.  In  a  few  days  he 
took  out  enough  gold  to  pay  for  several  arrastras,  with  which  the  mine  was 
worked  for  a  year  and  a  half,  the  rock  yielding  from  $ir)0  to  $.500  per  ton. 
Rumor  says  that  the  total  yield  in  this  time  was  §200,000,  three-fourths  of  it  net 
profit.  lie  then  erected  a  steam  mill,  with  two  stauips  and  two  aiTastras ;  but 
the  water  became  troublesome,  and  for  live  years  the  mine  has  been  idle,  and 
for  t\\o  years  before  the  work  was  iiTCgular.  The  mine  was  opened  by  a  cross 
tunnel,  which,  after  running  400  feet,  struck  the  lode  140  feet  from  the  surface, 
and  a  shaft  was  sunk  40  feet  below  the  tunnel.  The  failure  of  the  mine  is 
attributed  b}-  some  persons  in  the  neighborhood  exclusively  to  bad  management. 
It  is  said  that  the  last  rock  crushed  yielded  $G0  per.  ton,  and  there  was  more  of 
it  in  sight.  Tliere  were  five  partners,  most  of  whom  were  spendthrifts,  and 
shortly  before  their  failm-e  they  took  a  trip  to  Sonora  and  spent  $4,000  in  one 
debauch.  Those  who  had  not  squandered  their  money  had  sent  it  away,  and 
when  the  water  came  in  they  could  not  afford  to  bay  a  pump  nor  to  cut  a  deeper 
tunnel.  It  is  said  that  there  is  a  large  deposit,  of  good  pay  quartz,  40  feet  deep 
and  80  feet  long,  under  the  drift,  on  a  level  with  the  tunnel. 

The  vein  is  from  8  inches  to  2^  feet  in  width,  with  slate  walls.  There  are 
two  pay  chutes,  which  were  worked  to  a  depth  of  IGO  feet  and  for  a  horizontal 
distance  of  150  feet.  One  account  says  that  the  last  workings  were  in  a  place 
where  the  vein  split,  and  the  miners  were  in  the  poorer  branch.  It  is  reported 
that  a  rich  cross  vein  was  found,  but  that  the  hired  miner  who  found  it  concealed 
the  fact  in  the  hope  that  he  would  some  day  get  possession.  About  $2,000 
have  been  spent  on  roads  to  reach  the  mine  and  mill. 

GoODWrN'. — The  Goodwin  mine,  11  miles  eastward  from  Coulterville,  was 
discovered  in  1S5G.  It  was  worked  with  arrastras  for  three  years,  and  then 
for  three  years  more  with  an  eight-stami)  mill,  which  last  paid  850,000  profit, 
some  of  the  rock  yielding  $100  per  ton.  The  mine;  and  mill  lay  idle  for  foiu' 
years,  and  under  foreclosure  of  a  mortgage  passed  into  the  hands  of  a  creditor, 
who  attempted  in  vain  for  several  years  to  sell  for  $1,500,  undertook  to  work  the 
mine  in  desjxiir,  and  almost  immediately  found  a  good  supply  of  rock,  averaging 
$50  per  ton.  The  vein  runs  east  and  west,  and  dips  to  the  south.  The  aver- 
age thickness  is  three  feet,  but  in  places  the  lode  pinches  out.  The  quartz  is  a 
ribbon  rock,  and  all  of  it  pays  for  working.  It  is  found  in  chimneys,  which  dip 
to  the  eastward,  with  an  inclination  of  70°  to  the  horizon  on  the  upper  side,  but 
on  the  lower  side  the  dip  is  irregular,  the  chutes  growing  longer,  horizontally, 
as  they  go  down.  Three  pay  chimneys  have  been  worked  so  far,  and  one  of 
them  has  pinched  out  in  going  down.  Both  walls  are  of  slate,  and  there  is  a 
black  putty  gouge  a  foot  thick.  A  cross  tunnel  550  feet  long  strikes  the  vein 
400  feet  below  the  surface,  and  the  lode  might  be  struck  200  feet  lower  b}'  a 
tunnel  600  feet  long.  The  present  proprietor  is  about  to  put  in  a  pump  and 
hoisting  works.  The  mill  h;us  eight  wooden-stem  stamps,  and  is  driven  by 
water  from  the  north  fork  of  the  Mercede.  The  flmnc  is  half  a  mile  long,  and, 
with  the  dam,  cost  $1,000.  The  mouth  of  the  mine  is  two  miles  from  the  mill, 
to  wliich  the  ore  is  hauled  on  sleds. 

Bell  &  ^IcGREW^ — The  Bell  &  McGrew  mine  is  a  mile  west  of  Coul- 
terville, on  the  Malvina  lode.     Several  pockets,  yielding  from  8100  to  $1,000, 
have  been  found,  and  a  mill  with  five  stamps  was  built  on  it,  l)ut  it  failed  to 
pay,  and  is  now  idle. 
3 


34  EESOUKCES    OF   STATES   AND    TERRITOEIES 

McKexzie. — The  McKenzie  mine,  adjoining,  lias  prodnced  some  rock  that 
jnelded  820  per  ton,  but  the  miners  were  driven  out  by  water,  and  the  o^\•ners, 
tindiniT  they  couhl  do  nothing  without  a  steam  pump,  sohl  their  five-stamp  mill 
to  Bell  &  McGrew  and  stopped  work.     Portion  of  the  mine  has  caved  in. 

HiDELT  &  Cu^'^'^S'G^AM. — The  mine  of  Hidely  &  Cunningham,  on  the 
Malvina  vein,  tAvo  miles  west  of  Coulterville,  contains  a  deposit  of  auriferous 
talcose  slate  15  feet  wide,  without  walls,  and  some  of  it  prosjiects  verj-  well. 
There  is  a  four-stamp  mill,  which  was  ranning  in  May. 

MxVEY  HARnisOJJ. — The  Mary  Hanison  mine,  about  two  miles  southeast- 
ward from  Coulter\-ille,  is  situated  on  a  spur  from  the  mother  lode.  This  spur 
vein  is  from  3  to  20  feet  thiok,  and  the  quartz  contains  talcose  slate  seams 
which  usually  ai'e  parallel  with  the  walls,  and  the  seams,  or  sides  of  them,  con- 
tain the  most  pay.  The  mine  has  been  worked  by  an  incline  240  feet  deep, 
and  a  pay  chimney  200  feet  long,  horizontally,  has  been  worked  out  to  a  depth 
of  150  feet.  There  is  no  gouge,  and  the  galleries  are  driven  in  the  slate  on  the 
hanging  wall  side. 

The  !^Iary  Hari'ison  Company  have  a  claim  on  the  Mahana  vein,  a  mile  and 
a  half  distant,  and  they  have  worked  it  to  a  depth  of  440  feet  from  the  crop- 
pings,  and  have  nui  330  feet  on  the  lode.  Access  is  obtained  through  a  cross 
tunnel.  There  is  l)lack  talcose  slate  on  both  sides  of  the  vein,  which  is  parallel 
with  the  mother  lode,  and  has  been  traced  4  miles.  The  gold-beaiing  portion 
of  the  rock  is  a  hard  ribbon  quaitz,  near  the  walls ;  while  in  the  middle  there 
is  soft,  shelly,  white,  ban^en  quartz.  The  pay  chute  is  150  feet  long,  horizon- 
tally, and  it  dips  60°  to  the  southeast  on  the  upper  side ;  the  lower  side  being 
less  regular.  There  are  two  mills ;  one  of  35  stamps,  the  other  15,  and  the 
fonner  was  about  to  start  at  the  end  of  IMay. 

Crowist  Lead. — Immediately  north  of  the  Mercede  river,  in  the  line  of  the 
Mother  lode,  is  the  claim  of  the  Crown  Lead  Company,  which,  10,500  feet  in  all, 
is  on  the  JMother,  Adelaide,  and  Medas  veins.  The  Adelaide  vein  has  supplied 
1.800  tons,  yielding  $7  per  ton,  and  this  ought. to  have  pelded  a  profit;  but  it 
did  not,  and  the  work  stopped.  The  general  opinion  in  the  neighborhood  is 
that  the  mine  has  an  immense  quantity  of  good  pay  rock,  but  that  it  has  not  been 
properly  managed.  The  claim  extends  from  the  river  over  a  steep  hill  2,000  feet 
high,  so  that  by  means  of  tunnels  all  the  rock  could  be  run  out  to  that  dejDth 
vithout  hoisting. 

The  mill  on  the  bank  of  the  Mercede  has  20  stamps,  and  was  built  in  1S64, 
at  an  expense  of  $35,000.  The  dam  cost  $30,000,  but  was  bought  by  the 
Crown  Lead  Company  for  Sl2,000.  It  is  now  in  excellent  condition.  The 
roads  on  the  claim  cost  $9,000.  Both  mine  and  mill  are  idle.  The  mill  is  pro- 
vided witli  Hepbmni  &  Peterson's  pans. 

Adjoining  the  claim  of  the  Crown  Lead,  or  on  the  same  ground,  is  a  claim 
taken  up  for  a  copper  mine  by  the  Tone  Company,  which  spent  822,000  there 
and  got  no  return. 

lIiTES  Cove. — Hites  Cove  mine  is  30  miles  northeast  from  Mariposa,  on 
a  vein  wliich  runs  northwest  and  southeast,  and  is  very  irregular  in  thickness, 
the  thickest  part  being  eight  feet.  The  quartz  is  a  ribbon  rock,  -R-ith  seams  of 
black  matter,  which  sticks  in  the  skin,  so  that  the  workmen  in  the  mine  get  a 
very  sooty  look.  All  the  quiU'tz  pays  very  evenly,  and  no  specimens  are  found. 
The  average  yield  is  about  $150  per  ton.  The  mine  has  been  worked  five  years 
steadily,  and  the  present  supply  of  quartz  is  obtained  from  a  depth  of  300  feet. 
Connected  with  the  mine  is  a  10-stamp  water  mill,  and  all  the  sands,  after  passing 
over  copper-plate,  are  run  through  anastras. 

.Bridgepokt. — The  Bridgeport  mine,  just  outside  of  the  line  of  the  Marii^osa 
grant,  has  produced  some  good  ore;  but  the  thickness  of  the  vein  (from  six 
inches  to  four  feet)  is  very  in-egular,  and  so  is  the  quality  of  the  rock.  The  T^-nlls 
ai'e  granite ;  the  mill  has  eight  stamps.     Both  mine  and  mill  are  idle. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  35 

Penox  Blaxco. — Tlie  Pofion  Blanco  mine,  G,000  foot  loni:;-,  two  miles  north- 
ward from  Ct>ulterville,  takes  in  nearly  the  wlK)le  of  the  prominent  Pefion  Blanco 
hill.  It  is  being  explored  by  a  tunnel  which,  entering-  the  hill  on  the  south  side, 
strikes  the  lode  175  feet  from  the  mouth  and  100  feet  below  the  ci'op})ing'S. 
Another  tunnel  (entering  the  hill  (m  the  northwest  side  is  in  285  feet,  but  has  not 
reached  the  vein.  Two  shafts  are  also  being  sunk  2,000  feet  apart.  The  south 
shaft  is  25  feet  deep  in  a  pay  chimney,  which  yields  rock  four  feet  m  thickness, 
averaging  $10  per  ton.  The  horizontal  length  of  this  chimney  is  not  ascertained, 
but  open  cuts  on  the  croppings  200  feet  distant  are  in  the  same  kind  of  rock,  and 
prc>bably  in  the  same  chimney.  The  north  shaft  has  not  struck  the  vein,  but  the 
croppings  near  this  shaft  contain  about  two  feet  of  rock  that  j-iolds  812  per  ton. 
The  first  application  for  a  patent  under  the  act  of  1866  was  made  for  this  mine. 


SECTION    IV. 

TUOLUMNE    COUNTY. 

Tuolumne  county  extends  from  the  Stanislaus  river  on  the  north  to  the  divide 
between  the  Tuolumne  and  3Iercede  on  the  south,  and  from  the  summit  of  the 
Sien-a  to  the  low  foot  hills  near  the  plains.  Nearly  all  the  mines  and  population 
are  in  the  western  half  of  the  county,  below  the  level  of  2,000  feet  above  the  sea. 

The  placer  mines  have  nearly  all  been  quite  shallow,  and  they  are  now 
exhausted  in  many  places.  There  never  have  been  any  large  and  profitable 
hydraulic  claims  in  the  coimty,  although  there  are  some  gravel  ridges  above  Big 
Oak  Flat,  and  others  near  Cherokee  that  may  prove  valuable  for  hydraulic  mining. 
One  of  the  chief  mining  features  is  table  mountain,  which  follows  the  Stanislaus; 
river  from  Columbia  to  Knight's  Perry,  and  covers  a  rich  auriferous  channel  thaV 
is  worked  through  tunnels. 

This  mountain  has  yielded  about  $2,000,000,  but  at  a  cost  of  $3,000,000 
Another  remarkable  feature  of  the  county  is  the  limestone  belt,  which  crosses 
the  country,  through  Garrote  No.  2,  Kincaid  Flat,  Shaw's  Flat,  Springfield,  and 
Columbia.  This  limestone,  instead  of  having  a  smooth  solid  surface,  appears  to 
be  broken  into  water-worn  boulders,  and  rich  auriferous  gravel  is  found  down  to 
a  great  de[)th  in  the  narrow  crevices  between  them.  In  this  count}',  too,  the 
mother  lode  is  more  strongly  marked ;  more  distinctly  traceable  for  a  considerable 
distance,  and  worked  in  more  mines  than  in  any  other  county.  Columbia  is  notable 
for  having  produced  more  large  nuggets  than  any  other  district  in  the  State,  and 
also  for  the  high  fineness  of  its  dust.  Bald  mountain,  near  Sonora,  has  had  an 
unsurpassed  cluster  of  rich  pocket  lodes,  and  the  Soulsby  district  has  some  of 
the  richest  granite  mines  of  the  State.  The  county  has  further  extensive  and 
valuable  beds  of  plumbago  and  some  fine  white  marble  suitable  for  statuary,  but 
its  extent  is  not  yet  proved. 

^luch  work  is  being  done  in  })rospecting  cpiartz  veins,  but  the  advance  in  lodo 
mining  is  not  e(iuival(.'nt  to  the  decline  in  filacers,  and  the  county  has  lost  about 
200  voters  annually  for  six  or  eight  j'cars. 

'J'he  State  and  county  taxes  together  are  $4  88  on  every  hundred  dollars,  or 
nearly  five  jier  cent.,  and  in  addition  to  that  there  is  in  Sonora  a  city  tax  of  one 
per  cent. 

The  placer  mining  portion  of  the  county  is  in  a  district  of  hills,  neither  very 
high  nor  very  steep,  and  consequently  it  is  pretty  well  suited,  so  far  as  grade  is 
eoncenied,  for  roads  and  for  tillage;  but  the  soil  is  not  strong  and  water  is  dear. 
Grain  does  not  yield  large  crops,  and  the  supply  of  fruit  far  exceeds  the  home 
demand,  but  transportation  is  so  dear  that  it  cannot  be  taken  away  fresh  with  a 
profit.     Large    cpiantitics   are   dried,  and  in  1866   300  tons  of  diied  peaches 


36 


EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITOEIES 


were  sliipped  from  Tuolumne.  Casks  and  freight  are  so  dear  that  Aviue  making 
yiekls  no  profit,  and  the  brandy  tax  prevents  the  conversion  of  the  gi-apes  into 
brandy,  and  many  of  the  vineyards  and  orchards  are  not  cultivated,  and  no 
new  vineyards  are  being  planted.  The  general  appearance  of  the  ranches  does 
not  indicate  prosperity.* 

During  the  first  half  of  1867  not  less  than  a  thousand  Chinamen  left  the 
county,  more  than  300  having  gone  from  Columbia  and  vicinity,  and  as  many 
more  from  Chinese  Camp. 

According  to  obseiwations  made  by  Doctor  Sncll  in  the  rainy  season  of 
1861-62,  121  inches  of  rain  fell  at  Sonora;  in  that  of  1864-65,  20  inches;  in 
that  of  1865-66,  35  inches;  and  in  that  of  1866-67,  50  inches. 

The  following  mean  thonnomctrical  obseiwations  are  also  taken  from  his  books, 
the  deo'rees  beinc:  Falu'enheit's : 


12  M. 


6  P.  M. 


1858.— October  .. 

November 

December 
1859. — January.. 

February  . 

March 


53-= 

63' 

54 

61 

43 

50 

46 

55 

38 

50 

61 

81 

56'-^ 

52 

44 

48 

44 

68 


Columbia. — Columbia,  situated  where  the  Table  Mountain  channel  crossed 
the  limestone  belt,  and  where  the  volcanic  material  had  been  deroded,  liaving  the 
rich  auriferous  deposit  near  the  surface,  was  for  a  long  time  tlie  largest  and  the 
busiest  town  in  the  southern  mines.  The  site  was  in  a  beautiful  vale,  and  the 
town  was  built  up  in  very  neat  stj'le,  but  the  placers  of  the  vicinity  are  approach- 
ing exhaustion,  business  has  declined,  and  many  of  the  lots  have  been  mined 
out,  leaving  the  large  limestone  boulders  lying  naked,  ban'en  and  cheerless.  As 
the  population  has  declined,  houses  have  lost  their  value,  and  dwellings  can  be 
purchased  for  one-tenth  their  cost.  In  many  cases  miners  have  purchased  houses, 
even  brick  stores,  for  the  purpose  of  tearing  them  down  and  washing  away  the  dirt 
of  the  lots ;  and  this  system  is  still  in  progress,  continually  reducing  the  number  of 
houses,  and  the  area  of  soil  and  level  ground  suitable  for  occupation.  Most  of 
the  rich  placer  claims  are  in  a  basin,  which  has  never  been  drained,  and  conse- 
quently there  is  a  large  mass  of  auriferous  dirt  that  may  be  worked  in  the  future 
if  drainage  is  supplied.  The  Stanislaus  river  is  two  miles  off,  and  by  starting 
from  a  ravine  that  ])uts  into  the  river  a  tunnel  could  be  run  400  feet  under  the 
town  with  the  length  of  a  mile  and  a  half.  The  expense,  however,  would  be 
very  great,  and  the  profit  uncertain,  so  nobody  speaks  seriously  of  the  project. 
At  the  deeper  claims  in  Columbia,  the  dirt  is  hoisted  from  the  bottom  to  a  dump 
box  placed  so  high  that  there  is  fall  enough  from  it  to  cany  away  the  refuse  du-t 


*  NoTi:. — Eeferrinf^  to  tlie  advantages  to  be  derived  from  the  construction  of  tlie  proposed 
Stockton  and  Copperopolis  railroad,  and  the  impetus  that  would  be  given  to  the  industry  of 
the  interior  counties  by  this  enterprise,  Mr.  William  S.  Watson,  the  intelligent  engineer, 
says : 

"The  proposed  road  will  not  touch  Tuolumne  county,  but  for  all  practical  purposes  Tvill 
command  its  trad<'  and  travel,  Copperopolis  being  15  miles  from  Sonora,  and  from  Knight's 
Ferry  it  is  about  two  miles  to  the  west  line  of  the  county.  The  sectional  area  of  Tuolumne 
is  1,430  square  miles.  The  character  of  the  country  is  of  course  mountainous,  forming  spurs 
of  the  main  ridges  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  descending  into  the  valley  to  the  west.  The  popu- 
lation in  1860  was  10,229;  assessed  valuation  in  lbG5,  $1,530,258.  The  present  freights  are 
princi]ially  up,  amounting  to  0,000  tons  per  year,  chiefly  supplies;  estimated  freights  to  Big 
Oak  Fhit,  Chinese  Camp,  Don  Pedro's  Bar,  and  the  Garrotes,  950;  total  up  freights  through 
Tuolumne  county,  0,950  tons ;  and  of  down  freights,  consisting  of  building  materials,  lum- 
ber, and  ores,  not  less  than  1,320;  total,  8,270  tons." 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  37 

throiiij^li  sluit'os.  Tlio  water  is  thrown  upon  tlic  dirt  in  tliosc  <lurap  boxes  tlirougli 
liydraulio  ]>i})es,  ii  style  of  wasliiui;-  used  in  very  few  places  in  tlic  State. 

From  iS-Oo  to  IS-'J?  Columbia  shipped  810U,000  weekly  5  now  the  shipment 
is  from  .$40,000  to  SoO,000  per  month,  and  there  is  a  steady  decrease. 

The  l\)llo\vini^  are  the  principal  claims  in  the  Columbia  basin: 

The  Colmnbia  Boys'  claim,  oOO  by  100  feet,  has  been  worked  regularly  si nco 
1850.  Previous  to  1853  it  paid  $26  \)er  day  ;  from  1S.53  to  1S57  $7  50  per  day, 
and  since  1S57  $'S  per  dny.  The  dirt  is  hoisted  by  a  wooden  wheel.  Five  men 
are  employed  in  the  claim  now. 

The  Tiger  claim,  400  by  130  feet,  was  opened  in  1849,  but  did  not  pay  much 
for  the  first  six  years.  Between  1855  and  1858,  however,  it  was  very  profitable, 
and  from  I8G0  to  1SG5  it  paid  still  better  than  before.  In  1863  the  yield  was 
from  $100  to  8600  per  week  to  the  man.  It  has  not  been  paying  expenses  for 
the  last  two  years.  An  iron  wheel  is  used  for  hoisting.  In  the  l)ottom  of  this 
claim  is  a  hole  leading  into  a  subterranean  channel  which  has  its  outlet  below 
Jamestown,  eight  miles  distant.  On  one  occasion  2,500  inches  of  water  ran 
down  the  hole  for  Aveeks ;  and  the  same  water  escaped  at  the  outlet,  where  the 
stream  was  governed  as  to  its  size  and  color  by  the  supply  at  Columbia.  A 
similar  hole  is  found  in  a  claim  at  Knapp's  ranch.  Men  have  climbed  down  150 
feet,  and  gone  100  feet  farther  with  ropes  to  the  bottom,  where  there  is  a  stream 
4  feet  wide  and  12  feet  deep,  Avitli  a  slow  current  and  clear  water,  no  matter 
how  muddy  the  i^treams  may  be  on  the  surface.  It  is  supposed  that  the  outlet 
is  at  Si)ringfield  or  Gold  Springs. 

The  Cascade  claim,  300  by  150  feet,  has  paid  well  for  short  periods,  but  has 
not  yielded  more  on  an  average  than  $2  .50  per  day  to  the  man.  Five  men  are 
employed,  and  a  hydraulic  wheel  is  used  for  hoisting. 

The  Mclnroe  claim,  300  by  100  feet,  paid  Avell  in  early  days,  but  does  not 
yield  more  than  $2  50  per  day  now  to  the  man.  Three  men  are  employed  in 
the  claim.     The  hoisting  is  done  by  a  whim. 

The  Bm-ns  claim,  400  by  200  feet,  paid  810  per  day  to  the  hand  from  1853 
to  1857,  and  averaged  $100  per  month  to  the  hand  since  1857.  Five  men  are 
employed,  and  an  overshot  wheel  is  used  for  hoisting. 

The  Main  claim,  300  by  200  feet,  has  paid  high  at  times,  but  does  not  yield 
more  than  $2  per  day  to  the  six  men  employed.  The  hoisting  is  done  by  au 
ia'on  hydraulic  wheel. 

The  jMillington  claim,  300  by  100  feet,  washes  in  a  ground  sluice,  aaid  has 
paid  $20  per  week  over  expenses.     Four  men  are  employed. 

KxArp's  Raxch. — Adjoining  Columbia  on  the  east  is  Knapp's  ranch,  of  which 
about  live  acres  have  been  washed,  yielding  $40,000  per  acre  or  8200,000  in  all. 
The  bed  rock  here  is  limestone,  but  the  boulders  are  large,  and  the  miners 
can  wash  between  them  much  more  conveniently  than  among  the  suiallex  boulderr; 
of  Columbia. 

The  ft  (llowing  claims  are  on  Knapp's  ranch  : 

The  Sullivan  claim,  200  by  100  feet,  is  fifty  feet  deep,  and  is  Avorked  by  a 
liyfh-aulic  stream  thrown  against  the  bank.  Two  men  Avork  the  claim,  and  they 
majce  together  about  $5  per  day. 

The  Peabody  and  Arnold  claim,  200  by  100  feet,  is  also  worked  by  a  hydrau- 
lic stream  against  the  bank,  which  is  50  feet  high.  No  men  are  engaged  in 
it,  and  they  have  at  times  got  very  good  paA\ 

The  German  claim,  200  by  100  feet,  has  paid  tolerably  Avell. 

The  Grant  claim,  200  by  100  feet,  commenced  Avorking  only  a  short  time  since. 

The  Hunt  claim,  500  by  500  feet,  is  remarkably  rich.  It  paid  825,000  in  one 
summer.  It  employs  six  men,  hoists  l)y  hydraulic  Avheel,  and  Avashes  in  a  dump 
box. 

The  Dutch  Bill  claim,  200  by  100  feet,  was  opened  in  1860,  and  has  at  times 


38  RESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

paid  $1,000  per  montli.  It  yields  $3  per  day  eaeli  now  to  two  men.  The  dirt 
is  Avaslied  on  the  ground. 

SAWiiiLL  Flat. — The  following  claims  are  at  Sawmill  Flat : 

The  Foley  claim,  200  feet  square,  was  opened  in  1850,  and  has  never  paid 
more  than  moderate  wages.  Fom-  men  are  employed,  and  there  is  a  hydraulic 
wheel  for  hoisting. 

The  Dry  den  claim,  400  by  100  feet,  washes  in  a  ground  sluice  and  pays  well. 
It  has  lately  yielded  $2,500  to  the  man  in  a  season.     Five  men  are  employed. 

Shaw's  Flat. — Shaw's  Flat  and  Springfield  are  on  the  limestone  belt,  but 
the  deposit  of  gravel  was  shallow,  and  it  has  nearly  all  been  washed  away.  At 
Springfield  there  are  two  large  springs  from  which  the  to\\'n  took  its  name  ;  and 
to  these  miners  brought  the  dirt  in  carts  in  1850  and  1851,  and  washed  out  from 
$10  to  $20  per  day.  As  many  as  150  carts  were  running  at  one  time.  There 
were  single  cart-loads  that  paid  as  much  as  $1,000.  The  ground  was  covered 
with  a  heavy  gi-owth  of  large  pine  timber,  which  has  now  all  disappeared,  and 
little  remains  save  the  rugged  limestone.  Springfield  at  one  time  had  600  voters, 
and  now  it  has  not  one-tenth  of  that  number. 

At  Sa'ftnnill  Flat,  near  Columbia,  the  dirt  is  hoisted  by  wheel  into  a  dump  box 
and  there  washed.     The  diggings  here  will  last  for  a  long  time. 

At  Brown's  Flat  they  wash  in  the  same  manner. 

At  Yankee  Hill  there  are  some  rich  hydraulic  claims. 

SoNOEA. — Sonora  is  situated  on  the  slate,  just  below  the  lijnestone,  and  was 
Monderfully  rich  in  early  days,  but  is  now  nearly  exhausted.  The  gold  shipped 
nearly  all  came  from  placers  pre^^ous  to  1858 ;  now  it  is  about  equally  divided 
between  quartz  and  placers.  The  amount  shipped  in  May,  18G5,  was  $80,000; 
in  June,  $84,000;  in  July,  $95,000  ;  in  August,  $102,000;  in  September,  $91,000. 

Big  Oak  Flat. — Big  Oak  Flat  is  on  a  granite  bed  rock,  and  the  gravel  on 
it  was  from  2  to  20  feet  deep.  Ditch  water  was  not  brought  in  until  1859,  and 
in  the  next  j-ear  it  saw  its  best  (lays.     It  is  now  pretty  well  worked  out. 

KixcAiD  Flat. — Kincaid  Flat,  four  miles  east-southeast  of  Sonora,  150  feet 
above  the  level  of  Sullivan's  creek,  on  the  limestone  belt,  was  fonnerly  a  basin 
of  200  acres;  but  it  has  been  worked  continuously  since  1850.  The  deepest 
workings  are  75  feet  below  the  original  surface,  but  the  bottom  has  not  yet  been 
reached  on  account  of  the  abundance  of  water  and  lack  of  di'ainage.  The  richest 
pay  has  been  found  near  the  water-level.  One  claim  50  feet  square  jiaid  $100,000, 
and  it  is  estimated  that  the  total  yield  of  the  flat  has  not  been  less  than  $2,000,000. 
There  is  a  considerable  area  of  rich  ground  that  cannot  be  washed  until  some 
artificial  drainage  is  supplied,  and  it  has  been  estimated  that  by  making  an  open 
cut  500  feet  long  and  a  tunnel  1,000  feet,  at  a  total  cost  of  $12,000,  75  acres 
might  be  worked.  In  addition  to  the  cutting  of  the  tunnel,  the  flume  would  be 
expensive,  and  a  company  has  been  formed  with  a  capital  stock  of  $30,000  to 
undertake  the  work. 

Jamestown. — Jamestown,  on  the  bank  of  "Wood's  creek,  was  built  up  by 
rich  and  shallow  placers  in  its  neighborhood;  but  these  ai"e  now  nearly  exhausted, 
and  the  town  has  become  a  little  village.  It  is,  however,  situated  near  the 
northern  lode,  and  it  will,  i:)robably,  with  the  development  of  quartz  mining, 
recover  its  prosperity. 

Other  Towns. — Algerine,  a  mile  and  a  half  north  of  the  Tuolumne  river, 
and  west  of  the  main  limestone  belt,  once  had  800  voters,  but  is  now  reduced  to 
a  few  score,  the  placers  on  which  it  depended  being  nearly  exhausted. 

Cherokee  and  Somcrville,  about  eight  miles  east  of  Sonora,  are  on  the  granite, 
and  they  depend  mainly  on  quartz  mines  for  their  support. 

Chinese  Camp  and  Montezuma  are  placer  mining  towns  near  the  western  border 
of  the  county. 

Table  JMoimTArjr. — One  of  the  most  remarkable  features  of  Tuolumne 
county  is  Table  mountain,  which  attracts  attention  from  remote  distances  by  its 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  39 

black,  bare,  level  siu-foco,  extending  across  the  landscape  like  a  gigantic  wall. 
Examined  closely,  it  aj)pears  to  be  a  mountain  capped  with  l)asalt,  a  ((uarter  of 
a  mile  wide  and  40  miles  long.  It  poured  out  of  a  volcano  near  Silver  moun- 
tain, in  Ali)ine  county,  and  took  the  same  general  course  as  the  present  Stanis- 
laus river,  which  has  cut  aci'oss  it  in  various  places.  There  is  a  fork  in  the 
basaltic  stream,  14  miles  above  C«dumbia.  The  av(!rage  height  above  the 
adjacent  ground  in  'J^uohuune  county  is  from  500  to  800  feet  on  the  northern  side, 
and  from  200  to  500  on  the  southern.  The  adjacent  earth  has  been  washed  away 
to  a  greater  depth  near  the  line  of  the  mountain  along  its  northern  base,  and  for 
that  reason  nearly  all  the  tunnels  run  in  on  the  northern  side. 

The  main  strata  of  the  mountain,  commencing  at  the  top,  are  :  basalt,  which 
is  in  most  places  140  feet  deep  ;  under  that  is  a  stratum  of  volcanic  sand  100 
feet;  then  pipe  clay  and  sand,  50  feet;  then  coarse  gravel,  20  feet;  then  pay 
gravel,  5  feet ;  then  bed  rock.  These  strata  vary  greatly  in  thickness,  however, 
in  different  places;  there  are  spots  where  the  pipe  clay  is  100  feet  deep;  but  the 
above  figures  are  given  as  an  average. 

The  pa}'  gravel  is  found  in  two  places ;  there  are  really  two  channels,  and 
whether  they  were  the  beds  of  two  ditferent  streams  or  two  beds  of  the  same 
stream,  occupied  at  different  times,  is  not  clearly  determined,  although  the  latter 
supposition  is  the  more  proltable.  The  channels  are  not  found  under  the  mid- 
dle of  the  mountain  at  every  point ;  there  are  places  where  one  of  the  cliannels 
is  not  covered  by.  the  basalt  at  all,  and  the  other  is  only  under  the  edge  of  it.* 

In  a  clahn  near  Whimtown  a  tree  standing  erect  100  feet  high  was  found  in 
the  pipe  clay,  and  it  looked  as  if  it  had  never  been  moved  from  the  position  in 
which  it  grew' ;  l)ut  it  was  all  charred,  though  the  basalt  was  a  hundred  yards 
distant. 

Table  mountain  has  been  an  unfortunate  locality  for  mmers.  '  It  is  estimated 
that  at  least  $1,000,000  more  have  been  put  into  the  mountain,  counting  the 
regular  wages,  than  were  ever  taken  out.  Nine-tenths  of  the  miners  who  under- 
took to  work  claims  there  were  the  lo'sers.  There  Avas  enough  gold  to  pay  well, 
}»ut  the  miners  did  not  know  how  to  get  it.  They  worked  in  companies,  and 
many  of  the  members  were  shirks  and  idlers.  They  had  no  experience  in  this 
kind  of  mining,  and  did  not  know  how  to  manage  so  as  to  do  the  most  execution 
with  the  least  labor.  They  guessed  at  the  level  of  the  channel,  and  started  their 
tunnels  too  high,  so  that  they  could  not  drain  their  ground,  and  either  had  great 
expenses  for  pumping  or  had  to  cut  new  tunnels.  The  (dd  channel,  when  first 
discovered,  was  extremely  rich,  and  it  was  presumed  that  the  possession  of  a 
claim  anywhere  on  the  mountain  was  equivalent  to  a  fortune ;  so  no  economy 
was  used.  Two  companies  side  by  side  might  have  united  to  out  one  tunnel, 
but,  instead  of  that,  each  "made  its  rvm.  But  the  outsiders  who  did  not  get 
claims  when  the  mountain  was  first  taken  up,  in  claims  300  feet  iii  length,  run- 
ning across  the  channel,  held  a  meeting  and  resolved  that  those  claims  were  too 

*  Mr.  J.  Arthur  Phillips  says,  iu  his  recent  work  on  the  miuing  and  metallurgy  of  gold 
and  silver:  "  The  summit  of  this  elevation  is  occupied  by  a  thick  bed  of  basalt,  of  a  very 
dark  color  and  great  density  of  texture,  which  is  occasionally  distinctly  columnar,  and  ap- 
pears to  have  been  poured  out  in  one  continuous  How.  This,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Souora, 
is  from  140  to  150  feet  iu  thickness,  and  its  width  near  the  entrance  of  the  Buckeye  tunnel 
is  about  1,7(10  feet.  Beneath  this  capping  of  basaltic  lava  is  a  heavy  deposit  of  dctrital  mat- 
ter distinctly  stratifitid  in  almost  horizontal  beds,  but  with  a  slight  inclination  from  either  side 
side  towards  the  centre  of  the  mass.  These  sedimentary  beds  chiefly  consist  of  a  rather  fine- 
grained sandstone,  which  rapidly  disintegrates  on  exposure  to  the  atmosphere.  Ihtcrstratilied 
with  this  sandstone,  and  moro  ])articukirly  in  the  proximate  vicinity  of  the  bed-rock,  are  clays 
and  fine  argillaceous  shales,  frequently  nearly  white  and  often  beautihilly  laminated.  With 
these  are  associated  beds  made  up  of  coarse  grain,  strongly  cohering  together,  forming  the 
cement  of  the  mines ;  and  at  the  bottom  is  found  the  yay  irravcl,  exactly  like  that  seen  in  the 
bed  of  an  ordinary  river.  The  entire  thickness  of  this  detrital  mass  at  its  greatest  depth  is  at 
least  two  hundred  feet.  This  thickness,  however,  diminishes  towards  the  extremities  of  the 
deposit,  where  the  edges  of  the  basin  formed  by  the  rim-rock,  gradually  rise."     (Pp.  43,44.) 


40  '  RESOURCES    OF   STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

large,  and  no  man  should  hold  more  than  100  feet  square.  These  jumpers,  as 
they  Averc  called,  far  ontnumhored  the  original  locators,  and  they  took  up  a  large 
part  of  the  mountain,  held  then-  own  for  a  long  time,  and  spent  large  sums  in 
prospecting,  Init  were  at  last  defeated  in  court  and  ejected.  Not  one  of  them 
made  anything  h}^  the  jumping  operation,  and  it  is  now  conceded  that  the  300 
feet,  instead  of  heing  too  much,  was  too  little,  since  most  who  held  even  those 
large  claims  lost  money  hy  them. 

The  old  channel  was  discovered  at  Springfield  in  1852,  in  the  Fox  claim,  in 
a  shaft  eight  feet  deep,  on  a  flat  fi-(mi  which  the  hasalt  had  been  washed  away. 
The  next  year  the  Berry  shaft,  55  feet  deep,  struck  the  channel ;  but  it  was  not 
till  the  first  of  May,  1S54,  tliat  the  first  tunnel  was  started,  and  the  theory  of 
lead  running  under  the  basalt  was  generally  considered  absurd  until  October, 
18;3o,  when  the  first  tunnel  reached  tlie  channel  under  the  basalt. 

The  tunnels,  to  reach  the  channfd,  average  about  1,000  feet  in  length,  and  the 
present  cost  of  cutting  tunnels  at  Table  mountain  is  -316  per  lineal  foot.  The 
common  size  of  the  tunnel  is  six  feet  high  and  four  feet  wide.  The  grade  is  one 
foot  in  a  hundred.  At  the  bottom  of  the  tunnel  is  laid  a  tramway,  28  inches 
wide.  Sleepers,  three  by  four  inches,  rest  on  ties  of  the  same  size  four  feet  apart, 
and  are  covered  with  iron  straps  an  inch  and  a  half  wide  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  the  claims  in  Table  mountain,  with  a  brief  statement 
of  their  success  and  present  condition,  commencing  near  Columbia  and  ninning 
down  stream : 

Tlie  Buchanan  claim,  300  feet  long,  has  a  tunnel  which  never  paid  expenses 
nor  reached  tlie  gravel ;  it  is  not  working  now. 

The  Springfield  claim,  2,000  feet  long,  has  a  tunnel  1,500  feet  long,  and  paid 
well.  Tlie  claim  is  working  now.  Three  channels  were  found  in  tliis  claim, 
and  all  were  rich. 

The  Joint  Stock  claim,  2,400  feet  long,  has  one  tunnel  of  1,000  feet  and 
another  c>f  1,200,  that  was  commenced  in  1855  ;  and  the  claim  is  not  abandoned, 
although  $150,000  have  been  spent  on  it  and  only  S50,000  taken  out.  Good 
gravel  has  lately  been  found,  and  the  claim  is  considered  valuable. 

The  Saratoga  claim,  1,200  feet  long,  has  a  tunnel  1,200  feet  long.  The  yield 
was  6300,000,  but  rumor  sa^'s  the  expenditures  were  still  greater.  The  first 
owners  sohl  out  at  a  high  price,  making  a  profit  by  speculation,  but  causing  so 
much  more  loss  to  the  purchasers.     The  claim  is  not  working  now. 

Here  comes  a  gap  in  the  mountain,  and  below  are  the  following  claims : 

The  Crystal  Spring  claim,  800  feet  long,  reached  the  channel  and  produced 
much  gold,  but  the  viim  was  not  ascertainable ;  it  is  standing  idle  now. 

The  Know-Nothing,  a  jum})er  claim,  never  reached  the  channel. 

The  Gold  Hunter,  a  jumper  claim,  never  reached  the  channel. 

The  Virginia  claim,  1,700  feet  long,  reached  the  channel  with  a  tunnel  800 
feet  long,  but  took  out  only  $5, 000  and  spent  $100,000.  The  company  had 
very  long  and  costly  litigation  with  jumpers  on  both  sides. 

The  Blank  jumjjer  company  started  a  tunnel  on  the  Virginia  ground,  but 
never  reached  the  channel. 

The  Independence  jumper  company  reached  the  channel  by  a  tunnel  500  feet 
long,  but  found  no  gravel,  and  lost  $75,000  by  their  enterprise. 

The  ]Mary  Ann,  another  jumjier  company,  ran  a  tunnel  in  a  considerable  dis- 
tance, but' found  nothing. 

The  Cape  Cod,  also  a  jumper,  had  similar  bad  luck. 

The  American  claim,  1,(500  feet  long,  has  a  tunnel  900  feet  long,  and  cut 
across  the  channel  with  a  drift  five  feet  wide.  No  pay  gravel  was  found  here, 
and  the  company  w^ere  so  poor  and  so  much  discouraged  that,  instead  of  exani- 
■iuing  the  channel  further,  at  a  slight  expense,  as  they  could  have  done,  they 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY   MOUNTAINS.  41' 

stopped  work,  and  nothiuij  hiis  been  done  now  for  tlireo  years.     Their  loss  was 
$30,000. 

The  Buclvcyo  claim,  1,000  feet  l«>uo-,  now  imludes  several  old  claims,  and  has 
three  tiuinels,  only  one  of  which,  2,000  feet  long-,  is  now  ULod.  One  of  the 
abandoned  tunnels  was  1,650  feet  long.  "Work  was  cornmence(f  in  1854,  and 
has  l)e(Mi  ktipt  up,  with  the  exception  of  one  year,  ever  since,  at  an  expense  of 
§100,000,  while  the  total  yield  has  been  only  S10,000.  An  artesian  anger  was 
used  in  prospecting  this  claim,  and  ]Mr.  Gonld,  who  tried  the  exi)enment,  thinks 
it  should  be  used  frequently.  His  drill  was  four  and  a  half  in(;hc»  wide,  and  he 
bored  foiu-  or  five  feet  in  basalt  and  eight  or  ton  Iwt  in  slate  in  12  hours. 
The  cost  in  slate  is  $6  or  S8  per  foot.     A  water  blast  is  used  for  ventilation. 

The  Boston  claim,  3,000  feet  long,  connnenced  work  in  1S55,  and  has  worked 
steadily  ever  since.  The  total  yield  has  been  not  less  than  $500,000,  and  the 
total  net  profit  nothing.  jMnch  of  the  work  was  done  at  first  by  a  joint  stock 
company,  the  shareholders  in  which  claimed  the  right  of  lieing  employed,  though 
some  of  them  were  of  little  value  as  laborers.  The  manager  did  not  know  how 
to  work  to  advantage,  and  did  not  pursue  any  steady  j)lan.  They  worked  first 
in  one  place  and  then  in  another,  without  exhausting-  either,  and  then  the  timber 
rolled  and  the  roof  fell  in.  There  are  now  two  owners  in  the  claim,  and  they 
are  doing  better  than  any  of  their  predecessors,  though  the  gravel  is  not  so  rich 
as  it  was  some  years  ago.  There  is  still  a  large  amount  of  ground  untouched. 
Ten  men  are  employed,  and  there  is  pay  dirt  enough  in  sight  to  keep  them  busy 
for  half  a  year.  The  average  yield  per  day  is  $8  to  the  man,  or  $1  per  ton. 
The  dirt  is  soaked  over  night  in  a  dump-box  before. 

The  Maine  Boys'  claim  is  1,200  feet  long  on  the  north  side  of  the  monntain, 
but  the  lines  converge  so  that  they  are  only  550  feet  apart  on  the  south  side. 
The  expenses  have  been  $J  20,000,  and  the  yield  very  little.  The  original  share- 
holders, having  staiwed  themselves  out,  sold  conditionally  to  a  San  Francisco 
company. 

The  Scraperville  claim,  1,200  feet,  has  paid.  It  is  said  that  the  owners  of 
one-foirrth  of  the  stock  saved  $5,000  in  a  few  years. 

The  Oliver  claim,  4,000  feet  long,  has  yielded  $200,000,  and  report  says 
$8,000  have  been  taken  from  a  single  dinup-box,  which  holds  150  tons.  The 
profits  were  moderate  till  the  end  of  18G6,  and  are  now  large.  This  company 
has  been  engaged  in  litigation  for  six  years,  has  spent  $30,000  on  the  suit,  and 
has  been  before  the  Supreme  Court,  in  one  form  or  another,  with  it  fom*  times. 
The  company  is  working  the  side  channel. 

The  New  York  Company  claims  2,400  feet,  and  their  ground  is  considered  the 
richest  in  the  county.  They  are  working  on  the  side  channel,  which  is  there 
about  GO  feet  wide,  and  each  longitudinal  foot  on  it  pavs  $1,000.  They  say 
they  have  taken  out  $250,000  ;  others  say  $300,000. 

The  Chinese  claim,  so  called  because  the  shareholdere  came  from  a  Chinese 
camp  near  l)}',  is  2,000  feet  long,  and  never  paid  anything.  The  tunnel  was 
run  in  300  feet. 

The  App  claim,  2,000  feet  long,  has  a  tunnel  1,500  feet  long,  cut  at  a  cost  of 
§50,000.     It  never  paid  anything. 

The  Know  Nothing  claim,  1,500  feet,  has  yielded  nothing  and  swallowed  up 
$7,000. 

The  Chicken  Company  claimed  2,500  feet,  spent  $20,000,  cut  two  tunnels,  and 
got  nothing. 

The  Montezuma  Company  claimed  3,000  feet  and  sunk  $20,000  in  a  tunnel 
2,000  feet  long. 

The  Rough  and  Ready  Company  claims  5,400  feet,  and  have  taken  out  not 
less  than  $200,000.  One  of  the  shareholders  observing  some  gravel  on  the 
mountain  side,  filled  his  pan  with  it,  and  on  washing  it  found  a  good  prospect. 
They  set  to  work  here  and  found  it  rich.     It  was  a  bar  of  the  old  river,  75  feet 


MiMStut^ 


42  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

above  the  level  of  tlie  channel.  The  claim  has  been  worked  regularly  since 
18o4,  and  still  pays  a  little. 

The  Union  claim, feet,  unopened- 

The  Palisade  claim,  5,400  feet,  is  unopened. 

Here  we  (fome  to  a  place  where  the  channel  is  lower  than  the  country  on  each 
side  of  the  mountain,  so  it  is  impossible  to  get  any  drainage  or  to  do  any  work. 

The  old  Stanislaus  Company  has  a  claim  12,000  feet  long  on  Table  mountain, 
just  above  the  point  where  the  Stanislaus  river  cuts  off.  The  channel  where  it 
opens  on  the  bluff  is  350  feet  above  the  level  of  the  present  river,  so  there  is 
abundant  drainage  down  the  channel,  though  the  country  on  both  sides  of  the 
mountain  is  higher  than  the  old  channel.  The  old  Stanislaus  Company  spent  a 
good  deal  of  money  tiying  to  get  in  from  the  side  before  they  discovered  the 
outlet  on  the  bluff.  Some  of  the  gravel  paid  $18  per  ton.  A  mill  was  erected 
in  1859  to  crush  the  cement,  but  it  did  not  pay. 

At  Two  j\Iile  Bar  (two  miles  east  of  Knight's  ferry)  the  channel  is  80  feet  below 
the  level  of  the  present  Stanislaus  river. 

QuAKTZ  MIXING  rN^  TuoLUMXE. — Tuolumne  county  is  very  favorably  situated 
for  quartz  mining,  and  so  far  as  external  indications  and  facilities  may  ser\'^e  as 
guides,  the  presumptions  are  that  it  will  be  second  to  no  other  county  in  Cali- 
fornia in  production  of  quartz  gold.  Wood  and  water  are  abundant ;  the  roads 
generally  are  good,  and  the  quartz  veins  large,  numerous  and  easily  traced.  The 
mother  lode  and  the  companion  talcose  vein  here  have  their  largest  and  most 
regular  development.  The  Golden  Rule,  the  Reist,  the  Mooney,  and  the  Heslep 
are  all  in  the  companion  talcose  vein,  and  have  paid  for  a  longer  time  than  any 
other  of  their  class  in  the  State.  The  quartz  veins  in  the  granite  about  Soulsb}'^- 
ville  are  the  most  productive  of  their  class  in  the  State,  and  the  cluster  of  pocket 
mines  on  Bald  mountain  is  unsiurpassed  in  the  multitude  and  richness  of  pockets 
within  a  small  area. 

GoLDEX  RULE. — The  Golden  Rule,  1,600  feet  long,  is  on  the  mother  lode,  about 
three  miles  eastward  fi-om  Jamestown.  The  claim  includes  both  veins,  the  main 
mother  lode,  and  the  talcose  slate  branch  or  companion  vein.  At  the  sm-face 
they  are  75  feet  apart,  and  87  feet  below  they  are  40  feet  apart.  The  main 
lode  is  12  feet  thick,  exclusive  of  a  horse,  and  the  slate  vein  is  eight  feet.  The 
latter  is  the  one  which  is  being  worked.  The  vein  is  a  black  slate,  bearing 
much  resemblance  to  ordinary  roofing  slate,  and  is  penetrated  in  eveiy  direction 
by  seams  of  quartz,  seldom  more  than  two  inches  in  thickness.  The  gold  is 
found  in  the  slate,  seldom  in  the  quartz.  All  the  vein-stone  is  worked,  though 
that  near  the  foot  wall  is  the  richest.  The  rock  is  soft,  and  is  easily  extracted 
and  crushed.  The  pulp  from  the  battery  is  black  like  the  slate.  The  walk  ai-e 
a  hard  magnesian  rock.  There  is  a  slight  dip  to  the  east.  The  mill  has  15 
stamps,  and  is  driven  by  water.  The  weight  of  the  stamps  is  750  pounds,  their 
speed  50  blows  per  minute,  and  their  drop  from  five  to  eight  inches.  There  is 
sufficient  power  to  drive  15  stamps  more.  The  water  is  obtained  fr'om  the  Colum- 
bia Ditcli  Company.  About  85  per  cent,  of  the  gold  is  caught  in  the  mortar, 
and  nearly  five  per  cent,  on  the  copper  plates  immediately  below.  The  pulp 
nuis  over  a  shaking  table,  which  has  120  jerks  per  minute,  and  is  cleaned  out  twice 
in  24  hours,  yielding  about  400  pounds  of  sulphm^ets  each  time.  The  pulp  also 
passes  over  blankets,  which  are  washed  once  in  an  hom\  There  are  10  pounds  of 
pure  sulphvu'ets  to  a  ton,  but  the  concentrated  tailings  as  saved  are  about  40 
pounds  to  a  ton  of  ore,  and  there  are  S40  per  ton  in  these  tailings,  which  are 
worked  in  an  arrastra,  which  pays  six  ounces  a  month.  A  Stetson  amalgamator 
below  the  blankets  pays  onl}^  $1  per  month. 

The  slate  vein  was  brown  and  decomposed  at  the  sm-face,  and  was  washed  in 
sluices  by  placer  miners  to  a  depth  of  30  feet.  In  1866  the  present  mill  was 
finished,  and  in  the  year  preceding  the  1st  of  July,  1867,  the  number  of  tons 
crushed  was  4,099;  the  average  yield  per  ton,  $S  94;  the  total  yield,  $36,653  ; 


WEST   OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  43 

cost  uf  labor,  $10,500;  cost  of  repairs,  timber,  lumber,  charcoal,  hauling',  taxes, 
&c.,  85,800 ;  cost  of  supplies  sent  from  Sau  Francisco,  $2,400 ;  oflice  expenses 
in  San  Francisco,  inclniliui^  salaries  of  president  and  secretary,  freight  in  Ijullion, 
travelling  expenses,  &:c.,  $1,500;  dividends,  $7,500,  and  cash  on  hand,  $2,953. 
The  total  expenses  were  $G  30,  and  the  net  profit  $2  55  per  pon.  The  average 
nmuber  of  days  that  the  mill  ran  in  a  month  was  23 ;  the  highest  being  27, 
and  the  lowest  17.  Tlie  average  yield  per  ton  was  $5  71  in  March,  $G  79  in 
January,  $G  97  in  June,  $7  72  in  November,  $15  54  in  October,  and  $10  or  $1 1 
and  odd  cents  in  the  other  months.  The  number  of  men  em])loyed  was  16,  of 
"whom  S  were  miners,  2  carmen,  4  millmen,  a  blacksmith  and  a  superintendent. 

The  roek  is  extracted  through  a  tunnel  400  feet  long,  80  feet  below  the  sum- 
mit of  the  hill,  and  500  feet  above  the  level  of  Sullivan's  creek,  below  which  the 
mine  cannot  be  drained  by  a  tunnel. 

App. — The  App  mine  is  1,000  feet  long  on  the  mother  lode,  near  Jamestown, 
The  vein  there  is  nine  feet  wide  on  an  average.  The  vein-stone  is  quartz,  in 
places  white,  iu  others  greenish,  and  others  dark.  The  richest  spots  are  near 
the  walls.  The  vein  dips  about  two  feet  and  a  half  in  ten.  The  hanging  wall 
is  magnesian  rock,  and  the  foot  wall  slate.  At  the  surface  there  were  tlu'ee  pay 
chinnieys,  75,  100  and  125  feet  in  horizontal  length  respectively,  separated  by 
intervals  of  GO  and  35  feet,  with  a  dip  to  the  northwestwai\l  of  70°  on  the  tipper 
side,  but  widening  out  on  the  under  side,  and  at  ISO  feet  the  three  hatl  united 
in  one  chimney  235  feet  long  horizontally.  Horizontal  sections  of  the  chimneys 
would  represent  not  rectangles  but  cpiadrangular  parallellograms,  with  two  very 
acute  angles.  The  chimneys  have  not  run  out  in  any  place,  but  in  several 
})laces  the  walls  have  pinched  close  together,  so  that  there  were  only  seven 
inches  of  quartz.  In  these  spots  the  chimneys  were  of  the  same  richness  to 
the  ton  as  elsewhere.  The  distribution  of  gold  in  each  chimney  is  very  even 
in  relation  to  the  depth ;  but  on  any  given  level  the  most  gold  is  found  at  the 
sliarp  cuds,  and  the  least  in  the  middle  of  the  chimney.  Each  chimney,  how- 
ever, has  its  peculiar  quartz.  One  chimney  has  white  quartz,  another  gi-eenish, 
another  bluish,  and  the  last  is  the  richest.  The  gold  is  fine,  and  seldom  visible 
in  the  quartz.  The  jiresent  supply  of  rock  is  obtained  at  a  depth  of  300  feet, 
and  the  shaft  is  now  being  sunk  deepei\  The  working  level  is  300  feet  long, 
and  the  supplj'-  of  pay  (juartz  in  sight  will  last  two  years  for  the  present  mill, 
which  has  ten  stamps,  and  is  (.kiven  by  water.  In  186G,  1,800  tons  were  worked, 
and  the  average  yield  was  $14  55  per  ton;  from  1863  to  1866,  inclusive,  fom- 
3'ears,  7,200  tons  were  worked,  and  the  average  yield  was  $15.  The  pulp  as  it 
comes  from  the  battery  is  ground  in  charges  of  400  or  500  pounds  for  three  or 
four  hours  in  various  ])ans,  without  quicksilver,  and  two  pan  charges  are  amalga- 
mated in  a  separator  for  the  same  length  of  time.  The  yield  in  the  pan  is  about 
86  i)er  ton.  The  total  expense  i)er  ton  in  this  mine  is  about  $8  per  ton,  and  in 
the  mine  alone  $4  50.  The  wall  is  iii  places  as  smooth  as  glass,  and  the  gouge 
is  thickest  at  the  pay  chimneys. 

SiLVEP.. — The  Silver  or  Anthrax  mine,  1,500  feet  on  the  mother  lode,  is  being 
opened  in  good  style.  There  is  a  10-stamp  mill,  which  was  idle  in  May  and 
waiting  for  the  complete  opening  of  the  mine.  The  companion  talcose  vein 
strikes  the  main  lode  400  feet  from  the  south  end  of  the  claim,  runs  with  it,  but 
as  a  distinct  vein  for  some  distance  towards  the  north,  then  tlivergcs  again,  and 
at  the  northern  end  of  the  claim  the  two  are  six  feet  apart.  The  companion 
vein,  so  far  as  examined,  is  barren  here. 

IIeslep. — The  lleslep  iciine,  1,650  feet  on  the  companion  talcose  vein,  has 
been  worked  1,200  feet  on  the  smfacc,  and  has  paid  all  the  way.  The  pay 
matter  is  dccom)ioscd  quartz  and  slate,  of  a  tan  color,  and  soft  enough  to  be 
picked  out,  and  in  some  i)laccs  to  be  shovelled  without  picking.  The  cost  of 
working  is  estimated  at  $2  50  per  ton.  The  vein  varies  in  width  from  8  to  20 
feet.     The  deepest  workings  are  90  feet  down.     The  mill  has  ten  stamps,  which 


44  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

are  driven  by  an  oversliot  wlieel  30  feet  in  diameter  and  four  feet  "w-ide.  The 
power  is  furnislied  l»y  80  inclies  of  water,  wliicli  costs  $50  per  week,  and  is  used 
over  again  by  the  Golden  Rule  mill;  wliicli  pa^'s  half  tlie  water  bill.  The  yield 
of  the  Ileslep  rock  is  $8  per  ton. 

Tiiio. — The  Trio  mine,  2,316  feet  long  on  the  mother  lode,  on  Whisky  Hill, 
is  doing  nothing  now.  A  ten-stamp  mill  was  erected,  and  foiu-  shafts  and  two 
tunnels  were  begun,  but  the  rock  taken  out  paid  only  84  75  per  ton,  and  the 
mine  and  mill  are  now  standing  idle. 

Reist. — The  Reist  mine,  1,000  feet  in  the  talcose  companion  vein,  is  consid- 
ered generally  to  be  one  of  the  best  mines  in  Tuolumne  county,  though  it  has 
been  worked  on  a  very  small  scale  and  has  never  paid  much  profit.  The  pay 
rock  is  decomposed  matter  like  that  in  the  Mooney  mine,  but  it  pays  better. 

MoONET. — The  Mooney  mine,  600  feet  on  the  mother  lode,  near  Jamestown, 
is  on  the  talcose  vein,  40  feet  east  of  the  main  lode.  The  material  is  a  tan-col- 
ored ochrous  earth,  mixed  with  slate  and  quartz.  It  pays  84  75  per  ton,  and  a 
stamp  will  crush  about  three  tons  per  daj'.  Much  of  it  has  been  sluiced  away. 
There  are  occasional  rich  pockets  in  it.  A  four-stamp  mill  is  now  at  work,  and 
the  rock  for  it  is  obtained  from  an  open  cut  200  feet  long,  40  feet  wide,  and  60 
feet  deep.  There  are  no  w-alls,  apparently.  At  the  bottom  of  this  cut  some 
hard  quartz  has  been  found. 

Raw  Hide. — Raw  Hide  mine,  1,650  feet  long  on  the  mother  lode,  where  it 
is  12  feet  wide.  A  depth  of  280  feet  fi-om  the  sm-ftice  has  been  reached,  and  a 
level  has  been  run  80  feet  on  the  vein.  The  quartz  is  colored  green  with  car- 
bonate of  copper,  and  it  yields  from  87  to  844  per  ton.  The  mill,  containing  20 
stamps,  a  40-horse  power  engine,  and  fine  hoisting  works,  is  considered  one  of 
the  best  in  the  southern  mines.  The  rock  is  crushed  to  the  size  of  a  pigeon's 
egg  or  smaller  in  a  Brodie's  crusher  before  going  to  the  stamps.  There  are  10 
"Wheeler's  pans,  and  five  8-foot  settlers.  Thirty  tons  of  quartz  are  crushed  in  24 
hom's.  The  shai't  is  kept  clear  of  water  by  hoisting  it  in  tubs  holding  160 
gallons  each.  The  hanging  wall  is  slate,  and  the  foot  wall  serpentine,  with 
asbestos  in  it. 

Eagle. — The  Eagle  mine,  on  the  mother  lode,  1,000  feet  long,  has  a  10- 
stamp  mill,  and  the  yield  is  $18  per  ton.  The  present  supply  of  quartz  is 
obtained  120  feet  below  the  surface,  through  a  tunnel.  The  mine  w-as  piu'chased 
several  years  ago  by  eastern  capitalists  for  $300,000. 

SnAKOiiUT. — The.  Sharomut,  on  the  mother  lode,  has  a  10-stamp  mill,  which 
is  idle. 

Clio. — Tlie  Clio,  2,000  feet,  on  the  mother  lode,  has  a  10-starap  mill  and  has 
been  at  work  five  or  six  years,  but  is  now  idle  because  the  dam  which  supplied 
water  to  diive  the  mill  was  carried  away  by  the  flood  of  last  winter. 

Meader  AifD  Cakrixgton. — The  Meader  and  Camngton  mine,  1,500  feet, 
on  the  mother  lode,  has  been  opened  to  a  depth  of  140  feet,  where  the  water 
became  troublesome  and  work  was  stopped.  Some  good  pay  quartz  was  found. 
There  is  a  four-stamp  mill  which  was  used  for  a  time  lor  custom  work,  but  is  now 
idle. 

Patterson. — The  Patterson  mine,  1,950  feet,  on  a  l)ranch  of  the  mother 
lode,  near  Tnttletown,  has  been  worked  for  ten  years.  The  vein  is  from  3  to  15 
feet  wide.  The  jiay  was  very  good  for  75  feet  from  the  surface,  but  not  so  good 
below  the  water  level.  The  deepest  workings  are  100  feet  down.  The  quartz 
is  extracted  through  a  tunnel.  The  rock  contains  large  ctibes  of  sulphtu'ct  of 
iron,  some  of  them  an  inch  and  a  half  square,  m  ith  free  gold  in  the  heart  of  the 
cubes.  There  is  an  old  1 0-stamp  mill,  driven  by  40  inches  of  water  on  an  over- 
shot wheel.     Only  five  of  the  stamps  are  now  running. 

About  half  a  mile  westward  from  the  mother  lode,  near  the  Patterson  mine,  a 
pocket  containing  $10,000  was  found  in  1866  by  an  old  man  who  had  a  convic- 
tion that  there  was  a  pocket  in  the  neighborhood,  and  had  spent  seven  years 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  45 

liunting  for  it.     "When  he  found  it  he  paid  the  friends  upon  whom  he  had  been 
liviniT,  and  went  to  the  eastern  States. 

Toledo. — The  Toledo  mine,  one  mile  west  of  Tuttletown,  and  half  a  mile 
west  of  the  mother  lode,  has  been  opened  by  a  shaft  160  feet  deep,  and  drifts 
running-  300  feet  on  the  vein.  There  are  two  veins,  one  2  feet  thiek  and  the 
other  io  feet,  juul  the  two  100  feet  apart.  Some  of  the  (piartz  has  assayed  $300 
per  ton,  bnt  then)  is  mneh  arsenie  in  it.  A  lO-starnp  mill  erected  on  the  mine 
did  not  pay,  and  it  was  sold  and  moved  to  the  (rohlen  Rule  mine. 

The  Morse  qnartz,  near  Tnttletown,  is  rnnnin<^  and  has  six  stamps. 

SouLSBV. — The  Houlsby  mine,  2,400  feet  loni,',  eight  miles  east  of  Sonora,  is 
on  a  lode  wliieh  runs  with  the  meridian,  and  di]ifi  to  the  east  at  an  angle  of  60° 
at  the  ni)rth  end,  and  90°  at  the  south.  The  thickness  is  from  4  to  9  inches  at 
the  surface  ;  8  inches  at  100  feet,  and  IS  inches  in  the  deepest  workings,  400 
feet  below  the  surface.  The  walls  are  syenite,  and  there  is  a  ^^■hite  gouge  of 
clay  or  slate,  seldom  more  than  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  The  (piartz 
is  bluish,  and  is  heavily  charged  with  blue  sulphurets,  lead,  antimony,  arsenic, 
and  zinc  ;  so  that  the  ore  bears  little  resemblance  to  the  auriferous  quartz  found 
on  the  mother  lode,  and  in  other  gold  veins  generally.  The  lode  has  been 
worked  along  a  horizontal  length  of  1,800  feet,  and  in  that  distance  five  pay 
chimneys  have  been  found,  the  longest  horizontally  being  200,  and  the  shortest 
15  feet.  jMost  of  them  dip  north  at  an  angle  of  60°  ;  and  they  run  to  a  feather- 
edge  in  every  direction.  In  some  cases  there  is  a  connection  of  })ay  between  the 
chut(>s,  and  in  others  there  is  none.  There  is  very  little  baiTen  quartz  ;  between 
the  pay  chimneys  the  walls  come  together,  except  in  a  few  spots  where  white 
quartz  or  a  horse  porphyritic  rock  appears.  The  vein  is  marked  by  slides  and 
cross-courses,  which  run  east,  northeast,  and  southwest,  and  all,  save  one,  dip  to 
the  northwest.  These  throw  the  vein  to  the  left,  and  the  one  which  dips  to  the 
southeast  throws  it  to  the  right.  The  cross-courses,  and  the  breaks  which  they 
have  occasioned  in  the  lode,  have  l)een  among  the  chief  difficulties  in  working 
the  mine,  and  its  present  success  is  probably  owing  chiefly  to  the  careful  study 
given  l»y  Jlr.  Inch  to  the  nature  of  the  formation.  In  a  mine  of  this  kind  the 
most  important  quality  in  a  superintendent  is  the  capacity  to  find  the  pay  chutes, 
and  as  the  cross-courses  throw  them  from  five  to  ten  feet  out  of  the  line,  in  a 
very  hard  granitic  rock,  the  search  is  slow  and  ex[)ensive.  There  are  dikes  of 
trap  cutting  through  the  country,  and  the  miners  regard  them  as  good  indica- 
tions, and  expect  to  find  pay  near  where  they  cross  the  quartz.  3Ir.  Inch 
remarked  that  perhaps  they  were  supporters  or  feeders  of  the  electro-magnetic 
or  other  influences  under  which  the  gold  was  deposited.  The  mill  has  20 
stamps,  and  is  driven  by  w^ater  while  water  can  be  obtained,  and  has  a  steam 
engine  to  furnish  power  in  the  dry  season.  The  stamps  weigh  .500  pounds,  make 
60  blows  per  minute,  and  drop  from  8  to  12  inches.  Al)0ut  90  per  cent,  of 
the  gold  is  caught  in  the  mortar,  and  95  per  cent,  of  the  remainder  on  the  first 
copper  plate  below  the  screen.  The  blanket  tailings  are  worked  in  a  chill  mill 
and  a  Ijall's  amalgamator ;  and  below  these  there  are  other  blankets,  the  tail- 
ings of  which  must  go  through  the  same  process. 

About  50  men  are  employed  at  the  mine  and  mill,  but  nearly  all  the  work 
is  done  by  c6n(  ract.  Sealed  proposals  are  invited  at  the  beginning  of  each  month 
to  sink  a  certain  shaft  a  certain  number  of  feet,  or  to  run  adrift,  or  to  break  down 
the  quartz  in  a  certain  slope.  With  strangers,  written  contracts  are  made  ;  with 
old  hands,  oral  contracts  are  considered  sufficient.  There  is  never  any  trouble 
about  the  contracts.  The  miners  .sometimes  make  bad  bargains,  but  they  nuist 
keep  them  or  leave  the  place.  The  best  hands  like  this  system,  because  it  ena- 
bles them  to  make  more  than  they  could  make  otherwise.  Sometimes  they  make 
$150  a  month  ;  sometimes  not  mm-e  than  $30.  Under  this  system  there  is  no 
shirking  on  the  part  of  the  men,  and  no  favoritism  on  the  part  of  the  superin- 
tendent.    Mr.  Inch  says  that,  if  he  had  undertaken  to  pay  his  men  by  the  day, 


46  EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

tlic  mine  would  have  been  a  failure;  tliat  is,  when  he  commenced  his  work  ;  but 
now  it  is  probably  in  a  condition  to  leave  a  profit,  even  if  the  expenses  were  50 
per  cent,  greater  than  they  are.* 

The  Soulsby  luine  was  discovered  in  1858,  and  between  May  of  that  year  and 
March  of  the  next,  yielded  $80,383  gross,  and  after  the  erection  of  a  twenty- 
stamp  mill,  $54,416  remained  net.  It  is  said  that  the  total  yield  was  $500,000 
in  the  first  three  years,  and  that  the  present  monthly  yield  is  from  $10,000  to 
$12,000. 

Platt. — The  Piatt  mine,  1,200  feet,  lies  1,500  feet  south  of  the  Soulsby,  and 
is  supposed  to  be  on  the  same  lode  ;  but  the  ground  is  intersected  by  more  slides 
and  cross-courses,  and  the  mine,  after  producing  $50,000,  was  abandoned  in  con- 
sequence of  the  inability  of  the  superintendent  to  find  the  vein  at  the  breaks. 
Lately,  Mr.  Inch,  superintendent  of  the  Soulsby,  has  gone  to  work,  hoping,  with 
his  experience  in  the  latter,  to  find  the  pay  in  the  Platt.  Five  pay  chimnej'S 
have  been  worked.  There  was  a  mill  on  the  claim,  but  it  was  moved  to  the  State 
of  Nevada  during  the  silver  excitement. 

Starr  King. — The  Stan-  King,  15  miles  east-southeast  of  Sonora,  is  on  a 
north-and-south  vein,  which  dips  40°  east,  and  has  a  thickness  of  six  inches 
at  the  surface,  and  18  inches  120  feet  down.  It  cuts  across  the  dip  and  the 
cleavage  of  the  slate,  and  the  walls  are  a  very  hard  slate.  The  walls  and 
the  quartz  resemble  those  of  the  Rocky  Bar  mine,  in  Nevada  county.  There 
are  two  chutes,  which  run  down  almost  vertically.  The  rock  yields  fi'om  $15  to 
$150  per  ton.  The  mill  has  five  stamps,  and  the  mode  of  amalgamation  is  the 
same  as  at  the  Soulsby  mill. 

Old  Gilson. — The  Old  Gilson  mine,  1,200  feet  long,  adjoining  the  Platt  on 
the  south,  was  opened  to  a  depth  of  125.  feet,  and  to  a  length  on  the  vein  of  250 
feet.  The  rock  yields  $50,  and  there  was  a  pay  chimney  SO  feet  long  horizon- 
tally, but  it  dipped  northwards  into  the  Platt.  The  mine  is  now  standing  idle, 
and  the  10-stamp  steam  mill  is  running  on  custom-work. 

Grizzly. — The  Grizzly  mine,  1,800  feet  long,  10  miles  eastward  from  Sonora, 
near  the  north  fork  of  the  IViolumne  river,  is  on  a  vein  from  6  to  12  feet 
wide.  The  hanging  wall  is  granite  ;  the  foot  wall  slate.  There  are  numerous 
horses  in  the  lode.  The  pay  is  disseminated  pretty  evenly  through  the  rock, 
which  yields  about  $20  per  ton. 

There  is  a  twenty-stamp  mill,  which  commenced  work  in  1859,  and  in  two 
years  took  out  $125,000,  if  rumor  be  true.  The  flood  of  1862  carried  off  part 
of  the  mill,  and  stopped  work  a  while,  but  the  mill  is  now  running.  In  this  mill 
the  crushing  is  dry,  and  a  blower  is  used  to  keep  the  dust  from  troubling  the 
laborers.  The  amalgamation  is  done  in  10  Hungarian  cast-iron  barrels,  each 
3  J  feet  long  by  2  J  Avide.  The  charge  for  each  is  500  or  600  pounds,  and  enough 
water  is  added  to  make  a  pulp  so  thick  that  in  ten  minutes  after  tlio  baiTel  has 
started  to  revolve,  small  particles  of  quicksilver  will  be  found  in  the  pulp,  which 
adheres  to  the  finger  thrust  into  the  mass.  About  50  pounds  of  quicksilver  ai-e 
put  in  at  a  charge.  The  barrel  revol  ves  horizontally  with  a  speed  of  eight  or 
ten  revolutions  per  minute.  After  running  for  seven  hours,  water  is  added  to 
thin  the  pulp,  so  much  that  the  quicksilver  will  all  settle,  and  after  another  hour 
of  revolution  the  thin  pulp  is  drawii  off,  and  another  charge  is  put  in.  All  the 
amalgamation  at  the  Grizzly  mill  is  done  in  these  baiTcls.     There  are  two  iron 

*  The  London  Mininj^  Journal  refers  to  the  contract  system  as  an  essential  element  of  suc- 
cess in  the  mines  of  Cornwall.  It  has  also  worked  admirably  in  the  St.  John  del  Rey  mine, 
in  Brazil.  The  average  cost  of  raising  the  ore  from  this  mine  in  1865,nnder  per  diem  wages, 
was  $7  87.  In  1866,  under  the  contract  system,  it  was  only  $6  29 — an  immense  saving, 
considering  the  vast  amount  of  ore  raised.  The  contract  system  has  been  adopted  to  a  con- 
siderable extent  in  the  New  Almaden  quicksilver  mine.  It  cannot  of  course  be  made  of  uni- 
versal application,  so  much  depends  upon  local  circumstances  ;  but  experience  has  demon- 
strated tliat  whenever  it  can  bo  appliea,  the  result  has  been  a  great  saving  in  the  expense  of 
mining. 


WEST   OF   THE   ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  47 

cylindrical  rollers,  each  three  inches  in  diameter  and  as  long  as  the  bairel  inside^ 
and  those  turn  and  assist  in  the  anialg'amation  dnrinj^  the  revolutions  of  the  bar- 
rels. The  haiTcls  are  cleaned  n[)  once  in  two  weeks.  Anialcfaniation  proceeds 
more  readily  if  h(^t  water  is  used.  Mr.  riiilip  S.  McDonald,  who  was  snperin- 
tendent  of  the  Grizzly  mill  for  a  time,  and  Jias  the  repute  of  being  a  very  com- 
petent man,  prefers  the  system  of  dry  cmshing  and  amalganoating  in  close  bar- 
rels. By  the  ordinary  modes  of  crushing  and  amalgamation  much  of  the  fine 
gold  is  can'ied  oti'  by  the  W'ater.  In  dry  crushing,  however,  it  is  necessary  to 
]irotect  the  laborers  from  the  dust,  which  has  been  known  to  cause  death  in  three 
months,  where  no  precaution  was  used. 

The  13onita  mine,  adjoining  the  Grizzly  on  the  south,  is  idlC;  and  so  is  its 
10-stamp  mill,  which  w-as  built  before  the  mine  was  opened. 

The  Consuela  and  its  ten-stamp  mill  are  doing  nothing. 

The  Martin  mine,  two  miles  south  of  the  Grizzly,  is  being  worked  with 
airastras. 

The  Invincible  mine,  2,000  feet  on  Sugar  Pine  creek,  22  miles  eastward 
from  Sonora,  has  produced  some  good  quartz,  but  the  mine  and  its  mill  are 
standing  idle  now. 

The  Excelsior  mine,  at  Sugar  Pine,  has  yielded  $300,000,  of  which  two-thu-ds 
was  j)rofit. 

]\IouNT  Verxon^. — The  IMount  Vernon  mine,  2,100  feet  long,  18  miles  north- 
cast  of  Sonora,  is  on  a  vein  which  runs  northeast  and  southwest,  dips  45°  to  the 
southeast,  and  is  about  two  feet  wide  on  an  average  between  granite  walls.  Only 
one  pay  chimney  has  been  found,  and  that  dips  about  45°  to  the  southwest.  It 
was  60  feet  long  hoi-izontally,  near  the  surface,  and  300  feet  down  it  is  more 
than  100  feet  long,  the  end  not  having  been  found  in  the  drift  now  being  run. 
The  rock  is  worked  in  the  Monitor  mill,  which  is  very  near  on  the  north  fork  of 
the  Tuolumne  river.  The  rock  pays  $96  per  ton,  and  in  1S6G  500  tons  were 
worked. 

SxELL. — The  Snell  mine,  1,800  feet  long,  15  miles  northeast  of  Columbia, 
is  on  a  vein  W'hich  runs  northeast  and  southwest,  is  nearly  vertical,  and  has  an 
average  width  of  one  foot.  A  pay  chimney  was  found,  and  it  paid  $50  per 
ton,  but  it  pinched  out.     A  mill  is  going  up  now. 

MoxiTOR. — The  Monitor,  2,100  feet  long,  18  miles  east  of  Columbia,  in  Sugar 
Pine  district,  is  15  inches  wide,  and  dips  at  an  angle  of  45°  to  the  east  between 
gi'anite  walls.  There  is  an  incline  do\m  60  feet,  and  diifts  have  been  run  90  feet 
on  the  vein.  Some  of  the  rock  has  paid  as  much  as  $300  to  the  ton,  but  the 
mine  and  mill  are  both  idle  now.     The  mill  has  five  stamps. 

Hazel  Dell. — The  Hazel  Dell  mine,  1,550  feet  long,  at  Five-mile  creek, 
on  a  vein  that  averages  about  two  feet  in  thickness.  The  walls  are  rotten  granite. 
The  rock  averages  $25  to  $30,  but  at  present  the  extraction  of  quartz  is  inter- 
nipted  by  water.  The  lowest  workings  are  seventy  feet  below  the  surface.  A 
tunnel  is  now  being  cut  for  the  pm'pose  of  drainage.  There  is  a  five-stamp  mill 
which  has  been  leased. 

Summit  Pass. — The  Summit  Pass  mine  No.  1,  one  mile  from  Columbia, 
3,600  feet  long,  runs  north  and  south,  dips  to  the  east  at  an  angle  of  70°,  and  is 
four  feet  wide.  The  walls  are  of  slate,  with  an  overlying  stratum  of  limestone 
near  the  surface.  The  claim  has  been  worked  500  feet  along  the  siuface,  and 
paid  well.  The  quartz  is  heavily  charged  with  arsenical  sulphurets.  No  work 
is  being  done  now. 

Summit  Pass  No.  2,  2,000  feet  long,  is  on  a  spur  from  the  preceding  lode. 
The  mine  has  been  opened  at  several  points. 

Quartz  near  Columbia. — The  Columbia  mine,  on  the  experimental  lode 
at  Summit  Pass  two  miles  northeast  of  Columbia,  has  limestone  walls,  runs 
northwest  and  southeast,  dips  to  the  northeast,  and  is  from  one  foot  to  four  feet  in 
width.     The  average  pay  is  $11  per  ton.     It  is  worked  with  a  15-stamp  mill. 


4S  .  EESOUECES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITOEIES 

The  Kimball  mine,  tliree  miles  northeast  of  Columbia,  lies  between  limestone 
and  green-stone,  is  a  foot  wide,  and  is  accompanied  by  a  trap  dike  8  or  10  feet 
wide.  When  first  opened  -$G,000  were  obtained  from  GOO  pounds  of  rock.  It 
is  not  worked  now. 

The  Kimball  extension,  adjoining  the  Kimball,  is  similar  in  character,  and  is 
being  worked  now,  the  quartz  being  crushed  in  a  custom  mill.  The  yield  is 
$10  per  ton. 

The  Slianghac  mine  at  Yankee  Hill,  two  miles  east  of  Columbia,  in  a  vein 
which  runs  north  and  south,  dips  to  the  east  at  an  angle  of  65°,  and  is  three  feet 
Avide.  It  is  east  of  the  limestone  belt  in  slates  highly  metamorphosed.  It  was 
worked  with  aixastras  in  1856,  and  yielded  then  $100  per  ton;  and  it  is  now 
worked  with  a  10-stamp  mill. 

PIuxTER. — The  Himter  mine,  in  Big  Canon,  14  miles  southeast  of  Sonora, 
is  on  the  side  of  a  mountain  that  is  at  an  angle  of  45°  from  the  north  fork 
of  the  Tuolumne.  The  rock  was  very  rich  at  the  surface,  and  a  tunnel  nin  in 
20  feet  ran  through  quartz  tliat  yielded  $300  to  the  ton.  The  owner  was  so 
delighted  that  he  built  a,  mill  without  delay  and  at  great  cost.  The  only  way 
to  get  the  timbers  and  castings  to  the  vsite  was  to  let  them  down  with  ropes  fi'om 
the  top  of  the  mountain.  After  $40,000  had  been  expended  in  the  mill  and  in 
exploration,  it  was  found  that  the  pay  chute  was  only  20  feet  long,  and  more 
money  would  be  required  to  work  it  than  the  owner  could  raise ;  so  after  $10,000 
had  been  taken  out  no  more  work  was  done. 

Lewis. — The  Lewis  mine,  2,400  feet  long,  is  20  miles  east-northeast  of 
Sonora,  on  a  vem  of  talcose  slate  150  feet  wide.  The  course  is  north  and  south, 
with  a  slight  dip  to  the  east.  The  slate  is  barren,  but  it  encloses  a  number  of 
veins  of  quai'tz  which  run  in  every  dhection,  and  all  are  rich.  There  are  several 
chutes  about  30  feet  long  horizontally,  in  which  the  quartz  averages  $25  to 
$30  per  ton,  while  elsewhere  the  quartz  yields  $10  or  $12.  Most  of  the  quartz 
is  found  near  the  hanging  wall.  The  vein  has  been  examined  for  a  distance  of 
2,000  feet,  and  pay  rock  has  been  found  at  intervals  along  the  whole  distance. 
The  quartz  in  places  contains  sulphurets  of  iron  and  lead,  and  cnide  sulphm*  is 
found  in  the  slate.  Heretofore  tlie  quartz  has  been  extracted  by  tunnels,  but 
hereafter  shafts  are  to  be  sunk.  The  eastern  wall  is  granite  and  the  western  a 
hard  black  slate.  The  mine  lies  in  the  Big  basin,  which  is  suiTounded  by  high 
ridges,  on  the  north  side  of  which  the  snow  lies  till  May.  The  rock  is  crushed 
in  a  five-stamp  mill,  and  is  amalgamated  in  two  large  aiTastras.  The  gold  varies 
in  fineness  from  600  to  785,  the  highest  fineness  being  obtained  from  those  quartz 
veins  which  contain  the  coarsest  particles  of  metah 

Sell  axd  Martin. — The  Sell  and  Martin  mine,  1,200  feet  long,  is  situated 
one  mile  north  of  Sonora.  It  is  two  or  three  feet  wide,  and  runs  northwest  and 
southeast,  and  dips  60°  to  the  northeast.  It  is  a  remarkable  pocket  vein,  and 
has  produced  not  less  than  $150,000,  of  which  one-fourth  lias  been  profit.  It 
was  first  opened  in  J  850,  and  has  been  leased  three  or  four  times.  For  one  year 
the  lessee  paid  one-third,  and  for  another  one-fourth  of  the  gross  j'ield.  About 
2,000  tons  of  rock  have  been  taken  out  in  all,  but  most  of  the  gold  has  been 
pounded  out  in  a  hand  mortar.  The  walls  are  of  slate,  and  the  country'  is  inter- 
sected by  ])ori)hyritic  dikes  three  or  four  feet  thick,  which  occur  at  intervals  of 
100  or  150  feet  along  the  700  feet  in  which  the  pockets  have  been  found.  The 
vein  is  hiter  in  formation  than  the  dikes  and  cuts  across  tliem,  and  on  the  lines 
of  intersection  most,  if  not  all,  of  the  pockets  have  been  found.  The  quartz, 
except  in  the  immediiite  neighborhood  of  the  pockets,  is  barren.  A  15-stamp 
mill  was  erected  at  the  mine  in  1863,  but  as  no  large  quantity  of  ore  coukl  be 
obtained  to  yield  more  than  50  cents  a  ton,  the  mill  has  been  standing  idle. 
There  are  several  men  now  at  work  in  the  mine  hunting  for  pockets  and  taking 
out  the  gold  in  a  hand  moi"tar  when  they  find  them.  The  largest  pocket  found 
yielded  $15,000. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  49 

SonilA. — The  Sopliia  miiio,  two  iiiiU's  cast  of  !S6nora,  is  2,150  foet  long',  on 
a  vein  Avliich  runs  northeast  and  southwest  and  dips  80°  south\\H;sL  The  vein  is 
erossed  by  dikes  which  the  miners  call  granite.  Tlieii'  w  idth  is  usually  throo  feet, 
thouith  one  is  forty.  The  gold  is  found  in  pockets  near  the  dikes.  Every  pay 
cliininey  is  near  a  dike,  but  sonic  of  the  dikes  have  no  pay  chutes  near  them. 
'J'ho  walls  arc  of  slate,  and  there  it!  on  one  side  or  the  other  a  talcosc  gouge, 
usually  on  the  hanging  wall ;  and  when  in  the  foot  wall  it  indicates  the  proximity 
of  a  pocket.  There  are  within  a  distance  wf  300  i'ect,  horizontally,  three  pay 
clnites,  each  of  them  from  ten  to  twenty  feet  long.  The  mine  has  been  worked 
by  a  tunnel  400  feet  long,  and  a  shaft  80  feet  deep  ;  and  another  tunnel  130  feet 
below  the  level  of  the  first  one  is  now  in  170  feet.  The  total  yield  from  the  mine 
has  been  §45,000,  and  in  the  year  ending  May,  1867,  the  produce  was  about 
$5,000.  There  is  a  live-stamp  mill  on  the  claim,  but  it  has  not  rock  enougli  to 
run  regularly. 

Bai,u  Mountaix. — On  the  same  Bald  mountain,  and  it  is  supposed  on  the 
same  vein,  is  the  Patteison  and  Turner  claim,  which  yielded  $30,000  in  one 
pocket,  and  $60,000  in  all. 

On  the  same  mountain  is  the  Fo^'d  claim,  which  was  discovered  in  1851,  and 
was  wonderfully  rich  at  the  surface.  One  pocket  yielded  $40,000,  and  the  ow^ners' 
rejected  offers  to  purchase  shares  at  the  rate  of  $500,000  for  the  entire  mine. 

The  Austrian  claim,  on  the  same  mountain,  had  one  pocket  that  paid  $70,000, 
besides  several  others  smaller. 

The  three  claims  last  mentitmed  are  all  idle  now,  and  were  worked  only  near 
the  surface.  Tlierc  is  no  regtilm-  (as  distinguished  from  a  "pocket")  pay  chute 
in  Bald  mountain,  the  gold  being  nearly  all  in  pockets.  The  gold  is  of  Yory 
fine  quality,  some  of  it  960  fine.  Some  pockets  are  surrounded  by  shattered 
and  decomposed  rock,  and  about  these  some  mill  rock  is  obtained,  but  the  pockets 
in  hard  rock  have  all  their  gold  in  a  little  compact  cluster. 

Bald  mountain  is  only  a  mile  cast  of  the  limestone  belt  which  runs  through 
Tuolumne  county,  and  many  miners  say  that  all  the  gold  near  the  limestone  is 
in  pockets. 

Draper. — The  Draper  mine,  4,000  feet  long,  six  miles  eastward  from  Sonora, 
is  on  a  vein  which  runs  north  and  south,  is  nearly  perpendicular,  and  is  15 
inches  wide  in  granite  walls.  The  lowest  workings  are  325  feet  deep,  and  they 
extend  4J0  feet  on  the  vein.  There  are  three  pay  chimneys,  one  of  70,  one  of 
90,  and  one  of  60  feet  in  horizontal  length.  Between  the  pay  chimneys  the  walls 
pinch  together.  The  mine  has  been  worked  regularly  since  1858.  The  quartz 
yields  about  $40  per  ton,  and  150  or  180  tons  are  extracted  monthly  and  worked 
in  steam  custom  mills,  to  which  $6  per  ton  is  paid  for  crushing  and  amalgama- 
tion. The  price  in  water  mills  is  $5  per  ton.  The  ore  is  heavily  charged  with 
sulphurets  of  iron,  copper,  lead  and  zinc. 

NoNPARETL. — The  Nonpareil  mine,  one  mile  from  Big  Oak  Flat,  is  on  the 
Nonpareil  vein,  which  runs  east  and  west  and  dips  to  the  north  at  an  angle  of 
70^,  and  has  an  average  width  of  live  feet.  The  walls  arc  slate,  and  the  quartz 
of  the  veinstone  is  mixed  with  slate,  and  in  places  the  hard  slate  is  seen  full  of 
particles  of  gold.  Several  shafts  have  been  sunk,  and  the  deepest  workings 
are  140  feet  on  an  incline.  Drifts  have  been  ran  160  feet  on  the  vein  in  pay  all 
the  way.  At  70  feet  from  the  surface  the  rock  yielded  $30  and  $40  to  the  ton,  but 
in  the  lowest  levels  the  pay  has  been  $13.  The  rock  contains  live  per  cent,  of 
sulphurets  which  assay  $300  or  more  to  the  ton,  some  samples  yielding  d(Kiblo 
and  treble  as  much.  The  mine  is  now  troubled  with  water,  and  work  has  been 
stopped,  but  a  tunnel  650  feet  long  would  driiin  the  mine  to  a  depth  of  340  feet. 
There  is  a  five-stamp  mill  which  is  also  idle.  The  power  is  supplied  by  a  Fau- 
cherie  turbine  wheel  seven  inches  in  diameter  and  four  feet  long,  including  the 
driving  wheels.  There  is  345  feet  of  pei-pendicular  fall  for  the  water,  and  60 
4 


50  EESODRCES    OF    STATES    AND   TERRITORIES 

inches  are  used  at  a  cost  of  15  cents  per  incli,  or  $9  for  24  hours.  The  tur>)ino 
was  bought  with  the  assurance  that  it  would  drive  24  stamps,  but  the  opinion 
among'  those  who  have  seen  it  work  is  that  it  would  not  drive  more  than  10 
Farrand's  oscillating  pan  and  Hinkle's  pan  are  used  in  the  amalgamation. 

Burns. — Tlie  Burns  mine,  on  the  Nonpareil  vein  and  adjoining  the  Nonpareil 
mine,  has  a  mass  of  decomposed  talcose  slate  which  is  in  places  25  feet  wide.  It  all 
jiays  to  work,  and  12  tons  are  rushed  daily  through  the  live-stamp  mill. 
Five  additional  stamps  are  being  put  in.  The  pulp,  after  being  amalgamated 
in  the  mortar  and  on  copper  plates  just  below  the  battery,  runs  into  tanks  and 
settlers,  and  from  the  tanks  the  sand  is  put  into  Varney's  pans  to  be  grotmd,  and 
it  is  afterwards  amalgamated  in  settlers. 

Other  Quartz  xear  Btg  Oak. — The  Rattlesnake  mill  containing  10  stamps, 
c;[cctcd  in  1866  at  Big  Oak  Flat,  is  not  running  now. 

"^rhe  Cosmopolite  mine,  near  the  head  of  Garrote  creek,  is  on  a  vein  which  runs 
northwest  and  southeast  and  dips  to  the  northeast,  and  is  ten  feet  wide.  The 
lowest  workings  are  150  feet  below  the  surface,  and  a  10-stamp  mill,  fonnerly 
known  as  the  Cross  or  Anita  mill,  belongs  to  the  mine. 

The  Mississippi  mine  at  Big  Oak  Flat  has  had  some  rich  pockets.  A  mill 
was  built  in  1866,  bvit  it  is  not  xunning  now,  crushing  being  done  at  present  in 
an  aiTastra.    -^ 

The  Cross  mill  is  standing  idle.  It  belongs  to  the  Golden  Rock  Water  Com- 
pany and  offers  to  do  custom  work. 

The  Mack  mill  is  also  idle.  The  Jackson  mill,  fotir  miles  east  of  Big  Oak 
Flat,  ditto. 


SECTION  V. 

CALAVERAS    COUNTY. 

The  county  of  Calaveras  extends  from  the  Stanislaus  river  on  the  south,  to 
the  Mokelumne  on  the  north,  and  from  the  summit  of  the  Sierras  on  the  east,  to  . 
near  the  base  of  the  foot-hills  on  the  west.  The  rivers  which  serve  as  the  northern 
and  southern  boundaries  are  permanent,  but,  all  within  the  limits  of  the  county, 
unless  streams  confined  to  the  snow  regions  near  the  summit,  go  dry  in  stimuKu*. 
The  Calaveras  river,  from  which  the  county  takes  its  name,  and  the  San  Antonio, 
are  considerable  streams  in  winter,  but  their  beds  are  bare  in  the  fall. 

With  the  exception  of  West  Point,  all  the  towns  of  any  note  in  this  county 
are  on  the  lime  belt,  or  west  of  it;  and  most  of  them  are  within  1,800  of  the 
level  of  the  sea,  and  in  a  region  which,  except  near  the  large  streams,  is  gently 
un-dulating,  so  that  there  is  little  difficulty  in  travelling  about.  All  the  streams 
are  au-riferous,  but  most  of  the  diggings  have  been  shallow  and  are  now  exhausted, 
and  as  a  consequence  the  business  of  the  county  has  very  much  declined.  There 
is  not  one  large  hydraulic  claim  in  the  county,  and  although  there  Jire  many  <piartz 
claims  that  have  each  yielded  large  sums,  there  is  no  (puirtz  mine  that  has  paid 
high  and  constantly  for  five  years.  There  is  good  reason  to  believe,  however, 
that  Calaveraa  will,  in  a  few  years,  occupy  a  much  higher  position  in  quartz 
mining  than  at  present.  The  county  is  well  supplied  with  water  by  ditches  j 
ihe  roads  are  comparatively  good;  and  timber  can  be  had  in  sufficient  quantity 
for  mining  purposes." 

The  debt  of  the  county  is  $240,000,  and  the  Shxte  and  county  tax. is  four  per 
cent,  annually  of  the  assessed  v;ilue  of  property. 

There  are  fifteen  ditches  in  the  county,  with  a  total  length  of  300  miles,  con- 
strticted  at  a  total  cost  of  $2,000,000.     Tlie  only  large  ditches  are  those  owned 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  51 

Tn'  tbo  ^f(>k<'lainne  Ilill  iiiul  Canipo  Scco  Company  aiul  by  tlic  Union  Water 
C»>in]>:iny-.* 

The  piiiu-ipal  quartz  niinini;'  towns  are  An<^els,  West  Point  and  Carson  Hill. 
Srnrpliys,  Donjrlas  Flat  and  Cave  City  are  placer  niinini;"  towns  on  tlie  limestone 
helt.  JMitkeliunne  Hill  and  8an  Andres  are  near  old  channels,  and  hoih  have 
some  shallow  placers.  Jenny  Lind  and  Campo  Seco  had  rich  placers  in  early 
days,  but  Inith  are  exhausted  now,  at  least  so  far  as  the  present  wages  and  modes 
of  working'  will  permit.  Cat  Camp,  near  the  western  line  of  the  county,  nor. 
worked  hitherto  because  of  the  lack  of  water,  is  to  have  a  ditch  finished  before 
the  end  of  the  year,  and  350  claims  have  been  located  there  hi  anticijjation. 

Deep  beds  of  gravel  have  been  found  in  several  high  ridges  in  the  eastern  part 
of  the  county,  but  so  far  as  they  have  been  examined  they  have  not  proved  rich 
enough  to  pay  for  hydraulic  washing.  It  is  known  that  there  are  considerable 
deposits  of  gravel  near  the  Big  Tree  grove.  Some  explorations  have  been  under- 
taken in  the  hope  of  finding  in  that  neighborhood  the  Big  Blue  lead  of  Sierra 
and  Placer  counties,  but  without  success. 

El  Dorado  Flat  is  a  portion  of  an  old  channel  near  the  Stanislaus  river,  300 
feet  above  its  level,  and  half  a  mile  above  Robinson's  feny.  The  gravel  is  100 
feet  deep,  and  the  bed  rock  pitches  as  if  the  stream  had  run  up  the  course  of  the 
jirescut  Coyote  creek.  Ten  men,  in  four  months,  took  out  $7,000  at  El  Dorado 
in  the  early  part  of  1867. 

The  Mokelumne  river  paid  very  well  at  nearly  all  the  bars,  more  than  a  dozen 
in  number  between  Union  bar  and  Clay's  bar,  and  even  in  the  bottom  of  the 
channel.  At  Sandy  bar  107  pounds  of  gold  were  taken  in  two  days  by  seven 
Frenchmen.  The  river  was  flunied  every  year  from  1850  to  1865,  and  for  the 
first  seven  or  eight  years  paid  high.  At  Union  bar  much  of  the  gold  was  in 
pieces  resembling  melon  seeds  in  size  and  shape.  The  Mokelumne  river  has 
been  worked  for  about  30  milea  along  its  course. 

The  Stanislaus  river  has  been  worked  eveiy  year  since  1849.  In  that  year 
the  work  was  confiued  chiefly  to  the  bars;  in  1850,  1851  and  1852  the  stream 
was  dammed  at  many  places  and  turned,  but  paid  at  only  a  few.  The  bed, 
except  near  the  mouths  of  Carson's  creek.  Coyote  creek,  and  Jackass  gulch,  was 
c<>mparatively  poor.  The  best  diggings  were  found  at  the  heads  of  bars  and 
near  high-water  line,  and  the  rich  spots  in  the  deeper  parts  of  the  bed  were  nearly 
all  in  crevices,  some  of  them  made  by  the  decomposition  of  quartz  veim?.  After 
1853  the  river  was  ilumcd  repeatedly,  but  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten  these  flnniing 
enterprises  were  unprofitable.  The  river  mining,  for  the  last  six  or  seven  years, 
has  been  mostly  in  the  hands  of  Chinamen.  , 

Big  Tkee  G-uovk. — The  Big  Tree  grove,  situated  15  miles  from  Murphys, 
81  miles  from  Stockton,  and  4^500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  is  a  favorite 
]ilace  of  resort.  Five  diiys'  time  and  850  are  required  to  make  the  trij)  from 
San  Francisco  and  back  in  the  cheapest  and  most  expeditious  maniier.     The 

*  Mr.  Wjitson,  referring  to  the  resources  of  Calaveras  county,  says:  "The  sectional  area  of 
this  county  is  1,MU  square  miles,  with  but  98  square  miles  or  02,70:5  acres  of  c>:ltivatefl  land. 
The  assessor's  viiluatiou  of  the  «'ounty  is  S-.*J<'4,4oO.  The  populatiou,  ]0,29i)  in  ISOO,*  is 
mostly  eDjjagcd  m  miniu<;  pursuits,  and  are  large  buyers  of  imported  products  and  merchan- 
dise, all  of  which  nuist  pass  over  the  Stockton  and  Copperopolis  railroad.  Aside  from  the 
gold  and  copper  of  this  county,  there  an;  extensive  quarries  of  marble  and  {rranit*'  of  very 
superior  quality,  which  cannot  be  worked  at  the  present  rates  of  transportation.  Her  upper 
range  of  niountains  arc  covered  by  a  dense  forest  of  pine  and  oak,  embracinj''  an  area  of  about 
3Uti  square  miles,  which  can  probably  be  transported  to  the  San  Francisco  market  fi)r  25  per 
cent,  less  than  an  equal  quality  uf  timber  can  be  procured  from  any  other  source  on  this  coast. 
In  this  county  is  located  th'-  Big  Trees  or  "  Mammoth  Grove,"  which,  as  a  curiosity,  attracts 
thousands  of  tourists  every  year,  and,  as  a  natural  production,  it  excites  the  wonder  and  admi- 
ration of  every  visitor.  The  up  freights  for  the  county  will  amount  to  15,6 10  tons  per  annum, 
and  down  freights,  including  copper  ores,  t)5,4(JU  tons  per  annum — total,  71,U4U  tons. 

*  Estimated  population  io  18C6,  J 2,000. — Stcctt's  Report  on  Public  ScUoois. 


52  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND   TERRITORIES 

elevation  is  so  great  that  snow  lies  four  or  five  months  in  tlie  year,  aiv\  the  hotel, 
whieh  is  commodious  and  ^vell-ke}^t,  does  not  open  for  visitors  until  Mixy  or  June, 
accordins^  to  the  season.  *The  grove  contains  90  trees  over  15  feet  in  diameter, 
and  of  these  ten  are  30  feet  through  just  at  tlie  ground,  though  10  or  15  feet 
above  the  diameter  is  considerably  less.  Five  men  spent  22  days  in  1854, 
cutting  down  a  tree  which  was  92  feet  in  circumference  and  300  feet  high.  Tlie 
stump  has  been  taken  as  The  foundation  and  floor  of  a  h»use  in  which  dancing 
parties  are  sometimes  held.  There  is  abundant  room  in  it  for  a  large  quadinlle. 
The  bark  was  taken  from  another  tree  to  a  lieight  of  116  feet  from  tlie  giound — 
up  to  where  the  branches  began — at  the  same  time,  and  the  tree  did  not  begin 
to  show  signs  of  dying  until  two  years  afterwards,  and  some  of  its  bouo-hs  were 
jOTcen  six  years  later.  It  is  estimated  that  one  of  the  trees  which  had  fallen  long 
before  the  grove  was  discovered  was  450  feet  long  and  40  feet  in  diameter.  Prof. 
Whitney  carefully  counted  the  rings  of  the  tree  which  was  cut  down  and  found 
that  they  numbered  about  1,300.  The  big  trees  are  scattered  about  in  a  forest 
of  very  large  trees,  many  of  Avhich  are  as  high,  and  some  almost  as  large,  as  the 
smaller  specimens  of  the  sequoia  gigantea,  as  the  big  tree  is  technically  named. 
The  number  of  visitors  annually  is  about  2,000. 

Agkiculture. — Agriculture  in  Calaveras  county  is  not  in  a  very  flourishing 
condi'cion.  Water  is  not  cheap  enough  to  be  used  for  irrigating  grain  or  pasture  land ; 
fruit  and  wine  will  not  pay  the  expense  of  transportation  to  Sacramento,  and  brandy 
will  not  pay  with  the  present  tax  upon  its  production.  There  are  a  multitude 
of  fine  o-rchards  and  vineyards,  but  as  many  of  them  are  unprofitable,  so  they 
are  neglected.  With  cheap  water  and  cheap  transportation  to  market  this  county 
should  be  prominent  in  the  production  of  wool,  wine,  and  fruit. 

At  Douglas  Flat,  in  the  orchard  of  Mr.  Hitchcock,  the  peach  thrives  better 
than  any  other  tree  fruit.  The  yield  is  very  large  and  regular,  and  the  quality 
good.  Apricots  do  not  thrive.  The  white  winter  Pearmain  apple  bears  v/ell 
and  keeps  well.  The  Porter  apple  bears  well,  and  though  rated  as  a  fall  fruit 
in  the  eastern  States,  keeps  here  till  February.  The  Wine  Sop  keeps  till  June. 
The  Newtown  pippin  is  tho  best  keeper,  bears  well,  and  has  a  fine  flavor.  The 
Belleflower,  Northern  Spy,  and  Peck's  Pleasant  are  good  at  neither  bearing  nor 
keepmg.  The  Vandevere  bears  tolerably,  but  does  not  keep.  The  Esopus 
Spitzouberg  keeps  well,  but  does  not  bear  heavily.  The  Roxbury  Ilussot  bears 
very  well,  but  does  not  keep.  The  same  may  be  said  of  the  Baldwin,  except 
that  it  bears  well  only  in  alteniate  years.  The  Golden  Ru&set  is  one  of  the  best 
and  most  regular  bearers  and  keeps  till  December. 

At  Murphys,  althoi-igh  the  distance  is  only-two  miles  from  Douglas  flat,  the 
fruit  is  two  weeks  later  in  ripening,  and  the  more  delicate  kinds,  such  as  figs 
will  not  ripen.  The  difference  in  elevation  does  not  seem  to  be  more  than  a 
couple  of  hundred  feet.  In  the  western  part  of  tho  county  figs  are  very  pro- 
ductive. 

Mkteokology. — The  amount  of  rain  in  the  rainy  season  of  1SG5  and  1866, 
at  Murphys  was  31  inches,  and  in  1866  and  1867  44  inches. 

As  much  as  10  f(!ct  of  snow  has  fallen  at  the  Big  Trees  in  one  storm,  but  tho 
depth  is  seldom  more  than  five  feet  at  any  one  time.  As  tho  ground  does  not 
freeze,  there  is  no  good  sleighing. 

San  AxuitEAS. — San  Andreas  is  the  present  county  seat,  and  is  situated  at  a 
point  where  San  Andreas  ravine  intersects  an  ancient  river  channel.  The  county 
seat  was  formerly  at  ^lokelumne  Hill,  on  the  northera  limit  of  the  county,  and 
was  removed  after  the  people  had  voted  at  a  special  election  for  San  Anv.^ieas. 
Great  frauds  were  practiced  in  the  election,  especially  at  Mokelumno  Hill,  which 
then  contested  the  election,  and  year^  elapsed  before  the  courts  and  county  oflices 
were  remcxved  to  San  Andreas,  which  had  spent  875,000  in  the  contest.  The 
people  of  the  new  county  town  were  much  chagrined  to  find  that  there  was  scarcely 
any  perceptible  increase  in  the  amount  of  business  or  in  the  value  of  property 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS.        •  53 

fifter  the  elianfjc,  and  inany  of  those  wlio  spent  their  cash  wouUl  be  glad  to  have 
it  back,  even  il"  Mokehnnne  llill  were  to  have  its  former  dignity.  The  monthly 
shipment  of  dnst  from  San  Andreas  is  $2;'},000,  nearly  all  plac<'r. 

TiiK  Sax  Andukas  old  Channel. — An  ancient  channel  rnns  past  8an 
Andreas,  and  indeed  it  is  to  the  rich  deposits  of  the  old  river  that  the  town  owes 
its  existence.  This  ancient  channel  h;is  been  traced  a  distance  of  eight  miles 
from  the  head  of  Old  Gulch,  past  San  Andreas,  and  Gold  Hill,  to  the  south  I'oik 
<'f  the  Calaveras.  The  general  course  is  nearly  west;  the  averag(!  width  is  100 
feet,  and  the  depth  uniler  the  surface  is  150  feet,  of  which  about  100  feet  is 
volcanic  sand.  The  richest  j)ay  stratum  is  a  soft  blue  gravel,  four  feet  deep,  whicli 
yields  seven-eighths  of  its  gold  at  the  first  washing  ;  but  there  is  also  a  red  cement, 
which  sometimes  usurps  the  place  of  the  blue  gravel  on  the  bed  rock  ;  sometimes 
overlies  it,  and  sometimes  occupies  half  the  channel,  leaving  the  blue  on  the 
other  side.  Tins  red  cement  is  not  so  rich  as  the  blue,  nor  is  the  gold  so  coarse, 
and  it  should  be  crushed  in  a  mill,  if  more  than  one-third  of  its  gold  is  to  be  got 
at  the  first  wa-shiug.     Some  of  the  gold  found  in  the  blue  gravel  is  quite  black. 

It  has  been  reported  that  a  petrified  turtle  thirty  inches  long  was  found  in  one 
of  the  claims  on  this  channel ;  but  the  report  is  mentioned  here  not  to  accredit 
it,  but  suggest  it  as  a  matter  for  investigation. 

3Ir.  ^larshall  says  lie  found  in  the  pay  dirt  in  the  claim  of  Marshall  and 
Showalter  an  Indian  mortar,  and  this  is  perhaps  one  of  the  best  authenticated 
cases  of  human  handiwork  found  in  an  ancient  stream. 

In  that  claim,  starting  from  the  surface,  the  shaft  passed  through  5  feet  of 
c<tarse  gravel;  then  sand  and  gravel  100  feet;  then  a  thin  bed  of  fine  brownish 
gravel;  then  4  feet  of  cemented  sand;  then  15  feet  of  blueisli  volcanic  sand; 
then  G  feet  of  pay  dirt,  and  finally  slate-bed  rock,  one  foot  of  which  is  rich. 

The  following  is  the  form  of  a  notice  usetl  in  locating  a  claim  on  this  channel : 

NoTiCK. — The  undersigned  claims  this  ground  for  mining  purposes,  known  as  the  Robert 
McCall  &  Co.'s  claim,  being  n  deep  or  shaft  claim,  and  being  bounded  on  the  northwest  by 
the  Gilchrist  and  Coruweil  claim,  and  on  the  southeast  by  the  Plug  Ugly  claim,  1,000  feet 
more  or  less,  aud  he  intends  to  work  it  according  to  the  laws  of  the  San  Andreas  mining 
district. 

WILLIAM  IRVINE. 
JOHX  SlloWALTER,  Recorder. 
August  ly,  Jti(i^. 

The  first  notable  claim  on  the  channel  commencing  at  the  highest  pyint  that 
has  been  worked  is  that  of  Foster,  Frazier  &  Co.,  800  feet  long  on  the  channel, 
where  the  depth  is  100  feet.  It  has  been  worked  10  years,  and  paid  about  $7 
]X'r  day  to  the  hand.  The  pay  is  obtained  by  drifting,  and  is  taken  to  the  sur- 
face through  a  shaft  and  tunnel. 

After  an  interv-al  in  which  the  channel  has  not  been  found,  we  come  to  the 
claim  of  McLaughlin  and  Dore,  who  have  been  at  work  10  years,  and  have 
averaged  about  $5  per  day.    Three  or  four  men  are  now  employed  on  the  claim. 

After  another  space  in  which  the  channel  was  not  found,  is  the  claim  of  George 
Ihirnhardt  &  Co.,  situated  on  the  hill  between  Old  Gulch  and  French  Gulch.  It 
ha«  been  worked  six  or  seven  years,  and  four  or  five  men  arc  now  employed  in 
it.     It  is  a  hydraulic  claim,  and  the  bank  is  75  feet  deep. 

The  next  claim,  that  of  Young  &  Co.,.  is  on  the  hill,  south  of  upper  Caleverita«, 
and  has  paid  well  for  10  years.  It  has  been  worked  both  by  hydraulic  and  by 
tunnel.     Three  or  fom-  men  are  employed. 

Knight,  Simpson  &  Co.,  work  their  claim  by  the  hydraulic  process,  with  four 
men.     It  lias  paid  well  for  six  or  seven  years. 

The  railroad  claim  on  Railroad  Hill,  one  mile  below  the  previous  claim,  has 
never  paid,  but  had  l)rokcn  several  parties  who  took  hold  of  it.  It  is  now  idle. 
The  channel  was  never  found  in  it. 

Wade,  Johnson  &  Cw.,  between  Yaqui  Gulch  and  lower  Calaveritas,  employ 


inZ:^ 


54  EESOUECES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

four  men  in  their  claim,  which  they  work  by  drifting,  and  have  obtained  moderate 
pay. 

Ilediick,  Wilcox  &  Co.,  are  working  with  three  men,  and  getting  very  mode- 
rate pay.  They  erected  a  cement  mill,  but  the  gravel  was  not  rich  enough,  and 
the  mill  was  moved  to  a  quartz  mine  at  Fairplay. 

The  Plug  Ugly  claim,  800  feet  long  has  yielded  $1,100  in  one  day,  and  still 
contains  rich  ground,  .Contention  among  the  shareholders  has  prevented  work 
for  two  yeai's. 

Irvines  claim,  1,000  feet  long,  has  been  worked  for  two  j^ears,  and  has  paid 
well.  The  gravel  is  so  tough  that  after  being  slaked  for  a  while  it  will  yield 
ten  times  as  much  in  the  sluice  as  it  will  if  washed  immediately  after  coming  out 
of  the  drift.  The  proprietor  is  now  erecting  a  water-mill  to  hoist  and  crush  the 
cement. 

The  claim  of  Patrick  Gilchrist,  ISO  feet  long,  paid  well  for  a  short  time,  but 
is  closed  now  as  if  worked  out,  though  some  good  minei's  think  it  still  valuable. 

Marshall  and  Showaltcr  have  GOO  feet,  and  have  been  at  work  for  13 
years,  usually  employing  six  or  eight  men.  Their  claim  has  been  very  rich,  and 
it  yielded  nine  })ounds  in  one  forenoon.     The  dirt  is  hoisted  by  a  whim. 

The  Marlette  claim,  GOO  feet  long,  was  opened  about  1857,  and  work  was 
stopped  in  18G1,  for  want  of  drainage. 

The  McFall  claim,  GOO  feet  long,  has  been  worked  for  10  years,  and  has  paid 
about  $10  per  day  to  three  men.  The  proprietor  of  this  claim  cut  a  long  drain 
at  considerable  expense  and  solicited  some  contribution  from  the  claim  owners 
above,  but  they  refused,  so  he  left  20  feet  at  the  head  of  his  claim  standing,  and 
this  served  as  a  wall  to  back  the  water  on  the  Marlette,  Marshall,  Plug,  and 
Irvine  claims,  and  stopped  work  in  parts  of  them  for  five  years.  Lately  they  have 
paid  $1,000.     The  drain  has  been  opened  and  they  have  resumed  work. 

The  Dunning  claim,  400  feet  long,  was  opened  in  1854,  and  was  worked  out 
in  five  years,  during  which  time  it  paid  about  $20  per  day  to  six  men.  One  pan 
yielded  12  pounds,  and  in  one  week  $10,000  was  taken  out. 

Here  the  channel  strikes  San  Andreas  gulch,  and  below  this  point  the  old 
channel  ie  six  feet  or  more  below  the  level  of  the  present  stream,  in  some  places 
35  feet  deeper.  For  1,500  feet  the  channel  is  under  the  gulch,  and  there,  bo- 
cause  of  the  shallowness  of  the  ground,  the  diggings  were  very  profital)le  when 
first  worked.  After  leaving  the  bed  of  the  g-ulch  the  old  channel  runs  1,000 
yards  to  Gold  Hill,  where  a  remarkable  fault  is  found,  the  channel  having  been 
here  broken  off  and  raised  up  100  feet  perpendicularly  by  some  convulsion  of 
natiu'e.  The  bed  rock,  the  size,  course,  and  grade  of  the  cliannel,  and  the  char- 
actor  of  the  gold  and  of  the  strata,  all  indicate  that  the  Gold  Hill  diggings  belong 
to  the  ancient  river  of  San  Andreas.  The  Gold  Hill  claims  paid  well,  but  arc 
now  all  worked  out. 

MoKELUiiNK  Hill. — iMokelumne  Hill  was  for  a  long  time  the  lai-gest  tov»-u 
in  the  southern  mines,  and  it  is  now  one  of  the  most  populous.  It  is  situated  on 
the  south  b.ank  of  the  Mokclumne  river,  but  about  800  feet  above  its  level,  at  a 
point  where  an  ancient  channel  has  been  cut  through,  leaving  a  convenient  pass 
for  ti"avel  from  north  to  south  and  exposing  rich  deposits  of  gold  near  the  surface. 
The  town,  instead  of  being  on  the  summit  of  a  hill,  as  might  be  infeiTed  from  its 
name,  is  rather  in  a  flat  or  basin,  with  hills  several  hundred  feet  higher  both 
east  and  west.  There  are  a  number  of  very  pretty  gardens  in  the  suburbs. 
Many  of  the  business  liousc^a  are  built  of  a  light  lava  or  tufa,  which  ia  found 
abundantly  in  the  neighl)orhood.  Houses  in  the  town  are  sold  for  about  one- 
lifth  their  cost.  Mokelumne  Hill  is  a  stage  centre  from  which  lines  run  to  Stock- 
tcm,  (45  miles,)  to  Sonora,  (50  miles,)  through  Sun  Andreas,  Angels,  Vallecito, 
and  ^i'olumbia,  to  Latro])e,  (38  miles,)  through  Jackson,  Sutter,  and  Dry  Town, 
and  to  West  Point,  (IG  miles.)  There  is  also  a  horse  mail  to  Campo  Seco,  12 
miles  distant. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  55 

In  the  spviiii^  of  1S51  tliivo  Fronclimon  foiiiul  ati  oxtremcly  rich  6\d  cliannol 
liiu^li  up  on  tlic  side  of  Frencli  Hill,  northeast  of  the  town  of  Mokohnnne  Hill, 
and  in  a  fow  days  took  out  8180,000.  They  attempted  to  keep  their  wealth  a 
secret,  but  in  vain,  and  some  Americans  found  it  out  and  went  into  the  claim  at 
night  and  stole  from  it.  One  niijht  they  dtig  out  a  ])ioce  weighing  1 1  ])ounds, 
l)nt  as  it  was  dirty  they  did  not  discover  its  character  in  the  dark,  and  threw  it 
aside.  The  Frenchmen  found  this  piece  the  next  morning,  and  a  piece  of  candle 
whieh  had  been  left  behind ;  so  the  next  night  they  watched  their  claim  in  arms. 
The  robbers,  finding  themselves  foiled,  laid  claim  to  the  mine,  and  threatened  to 
take  it  b}'  force,  and  the  Fienchmen  of  the  neighltorhood  assembled  to  defend 
their  countrymen,  since,  if  the  claim  of  one  Frenchman  could  bo  taken,  there 
wonld  be  no  security  for  the  others.  There  was  nuich  animosity  at  the  time 
against  foreigners,  and  tlie  report  that  the  Frenchmen  were  arming  gave  great 
wilence,  and  soon  there  were  two  armies  ready  for  the  fight.  The  French  vise- 
consul  at  Mokelurane  Hill  acted  as  mediator,  aivl  succeeded  in  making  a  com- 
promise, by  the  tonus  of  which  a  committee  of  American  miners  were  placed  in 
possession  of  the  claim  to  work  it  until  they  had  taken  out  enough  to  pay  the 
expense  of  the  military  ovganizatit)n  of  the  Americans,  and  then  to  return  it  to 
the  French  ©wners.  The  committee  worked  at  the  claim  for  months  and  worked 
it  out,  and  the  entire  sum  that  they  paid  from  it  towards  the  expenses  of  the 
military  organization  was  $1,100,  a  sum  less  than  the  Frenchmen  had  been  in  the 
habit  of  getting  nearly  every  day.  Thus  ended  the  French  war,  in  which  many 
French  cabins  were  burned  but  nobody  w.is  killed  ;  though  attempts  were  made 
to  assassinate  several  Frenchmen,  and  one  American  who,  having  been  appointed 
to  consult  with  the  French  consul,  took  sides  with  the  Frenchmen.  Before  the 
compromise  was  eftected  the  Frenchmen  fortified  themselves  on  Con-al  Hill,  but 
they  fled  when  they  saw  the  enemy  coming  to  storm  thei-r  works.  This  discre- 
tion sav-ed  much  bloodshed,  for  the  assailants  outnumbered  the  entrenched  party, 
and  they  had  laid  their  plans  so  that  the  French  would  1)0  exposed  at  the  time 
of  assault  to  the  fire  of  an  enemy  occupying  a  commanding  position  in  the  rear. 

iMoKELUMXE  Hill  old  chax'xel. — The  Mokelumne  Hill  old  channel  begins 
or  is  found  at  its  highest  point  aliouJ:  a  mile  east  of  the  town  of  that  name,  near 
the  residence  of  J.  Tynan,  and  runs  thence  under  Corral  Flat,  striking  Stockton 
Hill,  (at  a  point  between  the  Stockton  Hill  upper  diggings  and  the  Water  Com- 
pany's claim,)  thence  passing  in  a  southwardly  direction  under  the  Stockton  Hill 
ridge,  about  330  feet  below  tlie  surface,  until  it  strikes  Chile  gulch,  under  the 
Innes  &  Co.  claim,  which  gulch  it  then  follows^  down  on  one  side  or  the  other  to 
its  intersection  with  the  old  San  Andreas  channel,  where  the  two  unite.  This 
cliaunel  has  been  worked  to  great  profit  in  some  of  its  parts,  and  others,  though 
opened  very  thoroughly  at  gi'eat  expense,  have  proved  entirely  barren.  The 
largest  yield  has  been  obta.ined  east  of  the  point  where  the  old  channel  first 
strikes  Chile  gulch,  but  further  doM-n  there  is  a  place  called  Junction,  where  a 
number  of  claims  have  proved  very  rich. 

The  Water  Company's  claim,  1,'sOO  feet  long,  in  Stockt®n  Hill,  southwest  of 
Mokelumne  Hiil,  lias  been  worked  by  several  long  tunnels,  and  has  j'ielded, 
according  to  rumor,  8110,000. 

Tlie  Water  Company's  cement  mill,  on  Chile  gulch,  near  Mokelumne;  Hill,  has 
10  stamps,  and  is  driven  by  40  inches  of  water  forced  under  100  feet  head  upon 
a  hnnlygurdy  wheel. 

The  Paul  claim,  2,600  feet  long,  has  been  worked  continuously  for  ten  years, 
and  has  paid  well,  the  net  yield,  as  stated  by  common  report,  being  81G0,O00. 

Tlie  Calaveras  Tunnel  Company  worked  from  1S57  till  18GG,  and  did  remark- 
ably well  at  first,  but  afterwards  spent  much  money  in  hunting  for  tho  channel, 
and  made  but  little  gain  as  the  total  result  of  their  labors. 

The  Allen  claim,  1,000  feet  long,  was  worked  from  1859  to  1SG.3,  and  was 
not  profitable. 


56  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    A^'D    TERRITORIES 

The  Innes  claim,  1,100  feet  long,  was  worked  from  1856  to  1864  by  a  tunnel 
1,400  feet  long,  which  passed  over  the  deep  channel,  and  by  four  shafts  from  45 
to  110  feet  deep.     The  result  was  the  loss  of  nearly  all  the  money  invested. 

The  Cubberl}^  claim  has  yielded  some  very  rich  pay  gravel. 

The  Amherst  claim,  1,400  feet  long,  has  proved  extremely  rich.  The  chan- 
nel here  crosses  a  streak  of  soft  rock  called  ''rotten  granite"  by  the  miners,  and 
this  has  caught  the  gold  which  has  slidden  over  the  harder  rock.  The  claim 
has  been  w^rkod  for  10  years,  paying  all  the  time.  For  5  years,  10  or  12  men 
were  employed  ;  now  there  are  4.  It  is  reported  that  a  partner  who  had  owned 
half  the  claim  went  to  the  east  in  1862  with  $28,000.  The  work  was  done  by 
drifting  for  some  years,  but  the  tunnels  have  caved  in  and  now  the  hydraulic 
process  is  used. 

The  Shaw  claim  has  l)cen  worked  10  years,  most  of  the  time  with  large  profit. 
An  attempt  was  made  lately  to  pipe  away  the  dirt  through  a  shaft  and  tunnel, 
but  the  shaft  caved  in,  and  it  is  now  necessary  to  pipe  away  the  dirt  from  the 
outside  of  the  hill. 

This  completes  the  list  of  the  claims  in  Stockton  Hill,  commencing  at  Moke- 
Irmme  Hill  and  running  down  stream.  Mention  has  been  made  of  but  one  old 
channel  ruiming  under  this  hill,  but  really  there  are  two,  the  smaller  one  being 
from  90  to  120  feet  above  the  level  of  the  main  old  channel.  About  a  mile  and 
a  quarter  below  Mokelumne  Hill  the  upper  channel  breaks  off  and  seems  to  fall 
90  feet  into  the  lower  channel,  and  it  does  not  appear  again  below  that  point. 

Opals. — In  the  north  end  of  Stockton  Hill,  almost  within  the  limits  of  the 
town  of  Mokelumne  Hill,  is  an  opal-bearing  stratum  about  60  feet  below  the 
surface  of  the  hill.  This  stratum  is  a  rough  gravel  enclosed  in  a  tough  reddish 
clay,  from  six  to  eighteen  inches  deep,  lying  between  two  layers  of  volcanic  sand. 
In  18G5  three  claims  were  worked  for  opals,  which  were  obtained  in  great  abun- 
dance, but  they  were  of  very  common  quality  and  did  not  pay.  Nonp  of  the 
fire  opals  were  found.  The  dirt,  when  taken  out,  was  allowed  to  dry,  and  was 
then  broken  up  with  wooden  mallets,  and  the  opals,  which  were  from  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  to  two  inches  in  diameter  and  white  in  color  on  the  outside,  were 
j)i(;ked  out  by  hand.     The  longest  opal  tunnel  ran  190  feet  into  the  hill. 

On  one  occasion  there  was  much  excitement  at  Mokelumne  Hill  on  account 
of  the  nimored  discovery  of  a  mine  of  emeralds  and  sapphires,  and  men  wont 
out  at  night  with  lanterns  and  staked  off  a  large  district  in  claims.  Afterwards 
they  investigated  the  nature  of  the  first  discovery,  and  came  to  the  conclusion 
that  the  supposed  precious  stones  were  only  pieces  of  colored  ghiss  which. had 
been  in  the  gizzard  of  a  turkey. 

Camps  kear  Mokelumne  Hill. — Tunnel  Ilidge,  one  mile  southeast  of  Moke- 
limine  Hill,  is  three  miles  long,  has  a  cap  of  volcanic  rock,  beneath  which  in 
places  is  found  a  stratum  or  lead  of  auriferous  gravel,  most  of  which  has  been 
worked  through  tunnels. 

Buckeye,  two  miles  east  of  Mokelumne  Hill,  has  several  hydraulic  claims, 
Avhich  have  been  worked  for  six  yearsj.     One  of  them  is  now  paying  well. 

Buena  Vista  Hill,  lour  miles  northeast  of  Mokelumne  Hill,  has  four  hydraulic 
claims,  Avhich  have  been  worked  for  ten  years  with  nnich  profit.  The  ground  is 
very  rich,  but  the  water  cannot  be  tiiken  to  the  top  of  the  hill,  and  therefore  the 
expenses  are  groat. 

Rich  Gulch,  six  miles  east  of  Mokelumne  Hill,  had  very  rich  surface  claims 
in  early  days,  and  still  yields  well  in  a  few  spots. 

Douglas  Flat. — Douglas  Flat  is  situated  on  the  limestone  belt,  which  is 
hero  a  mile  wide.  The  deepest  workings  are  at  a  depth  of  150  feet ;  and  in 
those  places  the  pay  began  125  feet  from  the  surface,  and  was  covered  with  throe 
strata  of  volcanic  ash,  with  intervening  strata  of  coarse  gravel.  The  deep  claims 
were  worked  through  shafts,  with  pumps  and  hoisting  apparatus  driven  by  ditck 
water.     The  town  has  been  more  permanent  than  most  mining  camps  because 


WEST    OF    THE    liOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  57 

of  till'  tlocp  din'iii'ini^s,  and  accordiiifj  to  repute  it  has  produced  more  gold  m  pro- 
portion to  its  population  than  any  other  in  the  county. 

Anioni^  tlic  notable  claims  are  tke  JoUowin-^ : 

The  Texas,  500  feet  lonii;  by  150  feet  wide.  The  pay  stratum  is  from  6  to 
25  feet  deep  and  125  feet  below  the  surface.  Work  was  coinnienccd  in  1853, 
and  has  continued  since  with  an  interruption  from  1859  to  1862,  caused  by 
water.  The  claim  employs  8  or  10  men,  and  it  pays,  sometimes,  $500,  and 
never  less  than  8200,  per  week  .above  expenses.  The  total  production  has 
been  about  $60,000,  and  there  is  pay  crroimd  enouj^h  to  la«t  for  5  or  10  years 
mure.  A  stream  of  w.ater  yieldiiii^  IG  inches,  miners'  measure,  has  been  struck 
in  the  bottom,  and  a  pmnp  with  a  pipe  14  inches  in  diameter,  with  a  live-foot 
stroke,  is  used  for  keepinn' the  claim  clear.  The  lowest  drain  is  CO  teet  below  the 
surface.  A  tunnel  to  drain  the  bottom  of  the  claim  would  have  to  be  two 
miles  lonw-. 

The  Union  claim,  1,000  feet  lonj^  by  100  wide,  was  opened  in  ISGO,  and  is 
150  feet  deep.  The  average  number  of  men  employed  was  ten,  and  the  average 
weekly  yield  has  been  about  the  same  as  in  the  preceding  claim.  On  one  occa- 
sion they  took  out  90  ounces  or  $1,700  per  week  for  several  weeks.  The 
total  yield  has  been  about  $40,000.  The  claim  is  doing  nothing  now,  but  work 
will  be  resumed. 

The  Wild  Goose  claim,  800  feet  long  by  100  wide,  has  been  worked  to  a  depth 
of  200  feet  without  finding  l)ottom  or  pay.  A  drift  is  now  being  run  in  hope  of 
finding  bottom.  Four  years'  work  and  -$15,000  have  been  spent  without  any 
return  so  far.  In  two  drifts  of  this  company  the  dirt  swelled  so  fast  for  threo 
days  that  the  drifters  made  no  headway. 

\  The  Perseverance  claim,  800  by  100  feet,  has  been  worked  to  a  depth  of  130 
feet  without  finding  anything,  aud  the  shaft  is  still  going  down.  A  drift  run 
into  this  claim  from  the  adjoining  Union  claim  has  struck  rich  pay  gravel. 

The  Dashaway,  1,000  by  100  feet,  lias  been  worked  by  an  incline  300  feet 
deep  perpendicularly  ft-om  the  surface,  which  is  there  on  a  hillsiile.  The  claim 
has  been  worked  five  years,  and  has  produced  about  $25,000.  Five  men  are  at 
work  in  it. 

The  above  are  the  only  companies  now  working  or  likely  to  work  soon. 

The  Southwestern  claim,  1,200  by  100  feet,  yielded  $750,000,  and  is  worked 
ont. 

The  Ohio,  800  bv  100,  yielded  850,000;  worked  out. 

The  Harper,  200  by  100  feet,  yielded  8100,000 ;  worked  out. 

The  Lone  Star,  300  by  100  feet,  yielded  8100,000  ;  worked  out. 

The  Holmes  and  Toll,  100  feet  square,  yielded  8100,000  ;  worked  out. 

The  Hitchcock  and  Burgess,  100  by  50"^feet,  yielded  8100,000 ;  worked  out. 

The  Skunk  Tunnel,  400  by  100  feet,  yielded"  850,000 ;  worked  out. 

Mitrphy's. — Murphy's,  16  miles  from  San  Andreas,  formerly  known  as  Mur- 
phy's Camp,  is  situated  on  the  limestone  belt  in  a  pleasant  valley  surrounded  by 
Ltw  hills.  The  diggings  aro  found  here  in  a  basin  half  a  mile  in  diameter,  with 
dirt  aud  gravel  to  a  depth  of  200  feet.  The  pay  stratum  was  found  in  some 
places  within  twenty  and  in  others  within  100  feet  of  the  surface;  but  little  of 
it  was  high  enough  to  be  washed  in  the  natural  channels,  so  the  minors  hoisted 
tho  dirt  by  derricks,  or  with  a  horse,  rope,  and  pulley,  to  their  sluic(JS.  After- 
wards, however,  an  open  cut  900  feet  long  and  for  a  considerable  distance  40 
feet  deep  was  made.  This  facilitated  the  washing  of  the  flat  greatly.  There 
were  a  dozen  claims  which  paid  hisfh,  averaging  8100,000  or  more  each  it  is  said, 
but  there  is  no  rec/ord  of  tho  details.  Tho  Rhodes  chum,  one  or  the  nchest, 
produced  8250,000  from  an  area  100  feet  long  and  40  wide.  Tho  deepest 
workings  were  100  feet.  In  ono  afternoon  it  paid  37  pounds,  and  tho  next 
forenoon  63  pounds  of  gold.  In  this  claim  a  tunnel  was  cut  through  a  lai-go 
mass  of  limestone  far  below  the  surface,  and  in  the  midst  of  tho  mass  was 


n^ 


SB  EESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

found  a  cavity  containing'  a  rich  auriferous  quartz  boulder  "weighing  not  less  than 
lialf  a  ton  ;  and  there  was  no  orifice  leading  to  the  cavity  large  enough  to  let 
in  a  stone  weighing  20  pounds.  There  was,  besides,  some  rich  gravel  in  the 
cavity.  This  statement  about  the  quartz  boulder,  if  it  came  from  some  unknown 
source,  w'ould  deserve  no  consideration,  but  it  is  vouched  for  by  Alonzo  Rhodes, 
agent  for  Wells,  Fargo  &  Co.,  who  is  an  intelligent  gentleman,  and  is  reputed 
to  be  most  trustworthy. 

Murpliy's  derives  some  importance  from  the  fact  that  it  is  a  stopping  point  for 
travellers  going  to  and  i'rom  the  liig  Trees. 

Some  of  the  gold  at  Murphy's  was  quite  black  on  the  surface. 

Between  Murphy's  and  Douglas  Flat  an  old  channel  has  l)een  traced  for  600  feet. 

Vallecito. — Yallecito,  14  miles  from  San  Andreas,  is  a  level  valley,  with 
deep  digging.?,  which  are  covered  with  tliree  strata  of  lava  or  volcanic  sand. 
The  valley  was  in  its  most  flourishing  condition  from  1852  to  1855,  and  is  still 
far  from  being  worked  out,  but  there  was  a  lack  of  drainage,  and  the  claims 
which  would  pay  for  drifting  have  been  exhausted.  In  1855  a  mammoth  tunnel, 
to  be  2,700  feet  long  and  100  feet  deep,  was  commenced,  to  drain  the  flat,  which 
is  about  86  feet  deep  in  the  deepest  workings.  After  400  feet  of  the  mammoth 
tunnel  had  been  cut,  a  considerable  part  of  the  way  in  very  hard  gi'eenstone,  and 
after  $15,000  had  been  spent,  the  work  was  abandoned.  In  1862  a  new  tunnel, 
to  be  1,500  feet  long  and  36  feet  below  the  surface,  was  commenced,  and  last 
spring  it  was  co7.npleted,  though  the  flume  is  not  3'et  ready  for  Avashing.  The 
flume  in  and  out  of  the  tunnel  is  to  be  2,000  feet  long,  and  the  total  cost  of  the 
work  is  $30,000,  exclusive  of  interest.  An  ancient  channel  100  feet  wide  has 
been  traced  for  half  a  mile  up  and  down  the  valley,  and  it  is  considered  still  rich. 
The  ground  is  held  by  old  miners,  who  will  now  wash  oif  their  claims  through 
the  tunnel.  No  public  notice  has  yet  been  given  of  the  conditions  on  which 
.  miners  can  tail  into  the  tunnel. 

The  shipment  of  gold  from  Vallecito  is  $20,000  per  month  5  formerly  it  was 
$60,000. 

The  Dav  and  Hunter  claim  in  Vallecito  Flat  was  100  feet  square,  and  paid 
$25,&00. 

The  Isabel  and  Mitchell,  of  the  same  size,  paid  the  same  amount. 

In  the  Durham  &  Co.  claim  a  piece  weighing  25  pounds  was  found. 

There  were  50  claims  in  the  flat  that  paid  well,  but  there  is  no  record  of  their 
production  severally. 

Near  Vallecito  is  a  gravel  ridge  60  feet  deep,  and  a  portion  of  it  paid  well  in 
hydraulic  claims. 

Minor  Placer  CatiIps. — At  San  Domingo,  on  the  limestone  l)elt,  four  men 
took  out  $100,000  in  three  years,  commencing  in  1863. 

Near  Murphy's  is  Owlbiurow  Flat,  which  is  rich  and  might  l)e  drained. 

Indian  creek,  San  Antone,  and  Cave  City,  on  the  limestone  belt,  have  had  some 
rich  claims,  but  the  diggings  arc  now  nearly  exhausted. 

Quartz  Regulations  of  Angels. — The  quartz  reglations  of  the  Angels  dis- 
trict j)rovide  that  a  lode  claim  for  one  person  shall  be  100  feet  on  the  vein,  with 
150  feet  on  each  side  ;  and  a  discoverer  is  entitled  to  50  feet  more  on  the  vein 
than  an  ordinary  claimant.     The  regulations  say  : 

He  or  she  [tlio  cliiimant]  shall  have  the  rig-ht  to  sill  tlio  tlips,  strikes,  or  angles  of  every 
vein  origiiuitinjjf  ou  the  claim.  We  niulerstuixJ  that  a  vein  originates  on  or  below  the  sur- 
face rusniiig  downwards,  and  not  from  below  runtiing  upwards;  so  that  no  person  or  i>er- 
eons  locating  a  claim  ou  either  side  of  the  boundaries  of  another  shall  have  a  right  to  a  vein 
running  through  his  or  their  claim  that  originates,  as  abovo  understood,  on  the  claim  tirst 
located;  but  no  niau  shall  have  the  right  to  loUow  a  vein  on  the  length  of  it  beyond  the 
perpendicular  of  liis  boundary. 

Miners  shall  be  compelled  to  perform  at  least  10  bona  fide  days'  work  on  their  claim  or 
claims  during  the  year  commencing  from  the  first  day  of  April,  J  800.  Miners  failing  to  do 
80,  their  claim  or  claims  will  be  considered  forfeited  and  open  to  othtir  parties. 


Wj:ST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  99 

It.  will  ho  ohsorvo"!  that  tlioro  is  no  oxpross  riNniircmoiit  ol"  any  work  after  tlio 
Ist  of  April,  ISGl^  as  a  condition  of  titlo  ;  but  tlic  intention  was  uu(loiil)te(Uy  to 
require   10  days'  work  on  each  chiini  within  each  year,  ending  with  ]\ravc^,. 

The  records  of  this  district  were  burned  in  1855,  and  no  copies  or  written 
CA-idcnces  of  title  before  the  lire  are  preserved. 

There  are  57  quartz  claims  on  record  in  the  district,  and  55  of  them  bear  date 
pre\nous  to  18()4.  In  that  year  no  claim  was  made  ;  in  1SG5,  one;  one  in  186G  ; 
and  none  in  1867  up  to  Juno  1. 

Quartz  Regulations  of  San  Andrkas. — The  following  are  extracts  from 
the  miners'  reijulations  of  the  San  Andreas  district  for  ledge  mining  : 

Claims  in  said  district  shall  be  200  feet  in  length  on  the  lead,  with  all  its  dips,  spurs,  and 
anjrlos,  with  3(.I0  feet  in  width  ou  the  surface. 

Sliareholders  shall  be  compelled  to  port'orm  one  day's  labor  for  each  200  feet  held  or  claimed 
by  thcni,  or  its  value  in  improvements  thereon,  in  each  moiuli,  tVom  the  tirst  day  of  May  to 
th«  tirst  da}'  of  November  in  each  year ;  if  they  tail  so  to  do  their  claim  shall  be  considered 
forfeited  and  open  to  entry  by  other  parties,  unless  the  first  parties  shall  have  been  prevented 
by  sickness  of  themselves  or  families  from  complying  with  this  law.  When  a  company 
shall  have  put  ^')00  vsrortli  of  work  ou  a  claim  the  same  maj'  be  held  over  for  one  year,  and 
uo  longer,  by  a  renewal  of  the  record  of  said  claiui,  made  at  any  date  previous  to  the  first 
day  of  May  of  each  year,  during  which  year  the  parties  owning  such  claim  shall  not  bo  com- 
pelled to  perform  any  work  on  the  same. 

These  regulations  were  adopted  in  March,  1866 ;  and  there  are  57  lode  claims 
recorded,  the  latest  dated  in  ISO 5.  There  is  no  quartz  mine  in  opei'ation  in 
the  district,  save  at  Wilson's  creek,  Avhere  there  are  two  an-astras  at  work. 

Quartz  Mixing  in  Calaveras. — The  most  noted  quartz  mines  of  Cala- 
veras county  arc  the  IVIorgan,  the  Reserve,  the  Enterprise,  the  South  Carolina, 
the  Stanislaus,  the  Union,  and  the  Carson  Creek,  at  Carson  Hill ;  the  Bovee, 
the  Angels,  the  Hill,  and  the  Sickles,  at  Angels;  all  on  the  mother  lode;  and 
the  Woodhonse,  near  West  Point.  A  number  of  ricli  veins  have  been  found 
near  the  limestone  belt,  but  tlieir  wealth  has  been  confined  to  pockets. 

MoRCrAN. — I'ho  Morgan  mine,  500  feet  long,  on  the  mother  lode,  Avas  dis- 
covered in  1850  by  a  nuin  named  Hanee,  who  took  in  six  partners,  Morgan 
being  the  president.  The  discovery  was  made  on  the  summit  of  Carson  Hill, 
and  the  rock  was  extremely  rich ;  indeed,  if  the  statements  of  those  who  lived 
at  the  place  are  to  be  taken,  the  gold  was  abmidant  beyond  any  parallel.  j\Iuch 
of  it  was  taken  out  in  mortars,  and  not  nnfrequently  there  were  so  many  strings, 
of  gold  in  the  rock  that  cold  chisels  had  to  be  used  to  cut  them.  On  one  occa- 
sion gold  to  the  amount  of  $110,000  was  thrown  down  at  one  blast.  The  news 
filled  the  State  with  excitement.  The  town  of  Melones,  on  the  southern  side  of 
the  hill,  became  the  largest  mining  camp  in  the  State,  with  a  population  vari- 
ously estimated  from  3,000  to  5,000.  People  cfune  in  crowds  to  see  the  mine. 
Robinson's  ferry,  on  the  Stfinislaus  river,  two  miles  south  of  the  place,  took 
in  §10,000  for  feniage  in  six  weeks.  From  February,  1850,  till  December, 
1851,  the  production  continued  uninterrupted  and  w-ith  very  little  decline,  lu 
that  time,  according  to  Thomas  Deare,  who  has  lived  at  the  mine  longer  than 
any  other  person,  82,800,000  were  extracted  and  immense  sums  were  stolen.  It 
is  reported  of  one  Mexican  miner  that  he  stole  $1,500  in  one  day  from  the  arras- 
tra  which  he  had  in  charge,  and  paid  it  the  next  day  for  a  horse.  AH  the  rock 
too  poor  for  the  hand  mortar  was  ground  in  arrastras,  and  it  is  said  that  50  of 
them  were  running  at  ono  time.  The  facilities  for  stealing  were  great  and  the 
temptation  strong.  Gatnbliug  was  earned  to  a  great  extent  and  gold  seemed 
to  have  lost  its  value.  The  miners  were  mostly  Mexicans,  who,  as  a  class,  w  ere 
not  looked  upon  with  much  favor  by  American  miners ;  but  they  had  had  some 
experience  in  this  kind  of  mining  and  their  services  were  indispensable.'  They 
coidd  pick  up  the  lumps  of  gold  in  the  mine,  or  they  could  take  haudfulls  of 
amalgam  from  the  arrastra  with  little  fear  of  detection.  As  for  the  amount 
taken  in  this  way,  it  wjuld  never  be  ascertained,  but  that  it  was  great  was 
assumed  in  the  common  conversation  of  the  miners  themselves. 


60  RESOURCES    OF   STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

The  vast  production  was  too  great  to  be  witnessed  in  peace.  Several  hundred 
ruffians  banded  themselves  together  under  the  lead  of  Billy  Mulligan  and 
others  of  liis  kind  and  drove  away  the  owners  of  the  mine  by  force  and  worked 
it  themselves.  A  suit  to  eject  them  was  commenced,  and  after  nine  months 
their  work  was  stopped  by  injunction,  and  in  the  spring  of  1853  final  judgment 
was  rendered  in  favor  of  More^an  and  his  associates.  Morj^an  then  went  to  Enff- 
land  to  sell  the  mine,  but  more  litigation  sprang  up  about  the  title,  and  there 
was  no  final  decision  and  very  little  w«rk  till  the  spring  of  1867,  the  mine  hav- 
ing lain  idle  for  nearly  15  years.  The  work  has  lately  been  recommenced, 
and  report  says  some  marvellously  rich  rock  has  been  taken  out,  but  the  super- 
intendent did  not  consider  himself  authorized  to  give  the  precise  facts  for  publi- 
cation. 

The  mine  is  near  the  summit  of  the  hill  and  includes  two  veins,  which  unite 
100  feet  below  the  surface.  One  is  about  six  feet  wide  and  called  the  stratified 
vein,  because  of  numerous  seams  parallel  with  the  walls ;  the  other  is  40  feet 
wide  and  is  called  the  boulder  vein,  because  the  qtiartz  in  it  is  solid  and  boulder- 
like. A  tunnel  160  feet  long  strikes  the  vein  100  feet  below  the  outcroppings, 
and  from  this  drifts  have  been  run  200  feet  on  the  vein,  finding  pay  rock  all  the 
way.  The  richest  rock  is  a  talcose  slate  on  the  foot-wall.  The  mine  can  l>e 
worked  conveniently  by  tunnels  to  a  depth  of  500  or  600  feet.  There  is  no 
mill  now,  but  the  proprietors  propose  to  erect  one,  and  they  are  now  taking  out 
rock.     In  the  middle  of  June  they  had  5,000  tons  already  out. 

Reserve. — Immediately  south  of  the  Morgan  is  the  reserve  mine,  980  feet 
long.  This  mine  was  opened  in  1860  by  a  tunnel  300  feet  long  and  a  shaft  135 
feet  deep,  and  common  report  says  that  3,000  tons  of  talcose  slate  were  crushed 
and  $200,000  obtained.  A  report  made  by  a  French  mining  engineer  to  the 
Melones  and  Stanislaus  Mining  Company,  which  is  better  authority  than  common 
report,  says  the  yield  has  been  .$130,000.  Mr.  Coignet,  the  author  of  the  report, 
says :  > 

The  lead  worked  at  the  Reserve  belonjjs  to  that  order  of  vein  which  runs  west  15°  north, 
east  15°  south,  and  is  rich  ia  ore  throughout  its  whole  extent.  At  the  wailing,  [foot-wall,] 
and  for  many  feet  in  width,  the  slate  formations  are  impregnated  with  auriferous  pyrites,  partly 
decomposed  near  the  surface.  *  *  *  j  ^y^s  told  on  the  spot  that  the  slate  formations  of 
the  casings  throughout  the  length  of  the  claim  did  not  pay  less  than  $18  per  ton  at  the  mill, 
and  that  the  ore  formerly  extracted  contained  from  $90  to  $300  per  ton. 

ExTERPRiSE. — The  Enterprise,  900  feet,  adjoining  the  Reserve  on  the  south, 
has  been  opened  by  a  tunnel  which  nms  450  feet  on  the  lode.  There  is  no  mill 
connected  with  the  mine,  nor  is  any  work  being  done. 

South  Carolina. — The  South  Carolina,  2,550  feet  long,  adjoins  the  Enter- 
prise. The  vein  is  seven  feet  wide,  and  has  been  opened  by  drifts  running  580 
feet  on  the  lode,  280  feet  below  the  surface^,  in  p.ny  chimney  all  the  way.  Tiie 
mine  was  first  ^\'f)rked,  from  1850  to  1853,  by  some  Mexicans  under  a  lea^e,  whu> 
accounted  at  the  rate  of  $85  per  ton ;  but  rumor  sftys  that  the  actual  yield  was 
much  larger,  and  that  the  total  amount  wliich  they  took  out  w;is  S400,000,  and 
that  they  got  $40,000  in  one  week  from  their  arra-stras.  In  one  period  of  seven 
months  they  accounted  for  $119,000,  and  paid  over,  according  to  contract,  one- 
half,  or  $59,500 ;  but  the  owners  were  dissatisfied,  and  tenninated  the  lease  in 
1853,  and  the  mine,  notwithstanding  the  general  belief  in  its  great  wealth,  stoo<^l 
Btill  five  years.  In  the  spring  and  summer  of  1858  a  ten-stamp  mill  ran  for  three 
months  and  took  $19,000,  and  then  the  work  was  stopped  by  litigation.  The 
last  rock  taken  out  paid  840  per  ton.  The  mill  is  now  in  ruins,  and  no  work  is 
being  done.     Mr.  Coignet  says  of  the  South  Carolina : 

The  quartz  is  generally  white-hladed,  foliated  with  green,  slaty  streaks,  and  assnming  a 
Btripcd  appearance.  It  is  in  those  slate  formations  that  the  flattened  or  laminated  leaves  of 
gold  are  found.  Sometimes  the  quartz  is  compact  and  j-ellowish,  but  then  it  is  nearly  always 
near  an  intersection.  Against  the  walling  [foot-wallj  of  these  leads  the  slates  are  of  a  yel- 
low brown,  very  talcose,  and  perforated  by  cubical  holes,  indicative  of  deposits  of  rotten  iron 


J 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  fli 

pyrites.  Tlieso  nro  Jnctiblc,  and  can  bo  cut  witli  a  knifo.  Between  th«ir  strata  is  foumJ 
somo  bluish  quartz  suriuuudiHi  by  puro  ffold.  On  tho  wlioli)  line  of  tho  loads,  bof^inniiii^ 
Bt  the  South  Carolina  claim  and  u|>  to  tho  Hope,  whore  tlioy  still  exhibit  the  same  character, 
it  may  be  said  that  these  slaty  formatioua,  in  a  breadth  ot"  suvoral  feet  tVom  tho  walling  of  tho 
load,  uoutnin  at  least  $18  per  ton. 

Stanislaus. — The  Stanislaus  iniiio,  1,200  foot  lonf*-,  is  on  tho  middle  hranch 
of  tho  mother  lode,  imiu'odiatoly  nortJi  of  tho  iStaiiislans  river.  At  this  olaiin  tlio 
vt.'iii  runs  nearly  north  and  south,  and  dips  to  tho  cast  at  an  ano-le  of  7-5  degrees. 
The  mine  has  been  opened  l>y  thr(>o  tunnels,  one  400  feet  long  and  two  'of 
100  feet  eaeh,  and  by  several  shafts  running  down  from  tho  tunnels.  Tho 
quartz  is  reniarhablo  for  eontaining  nmeh  gold  in  the  form  of  a  tollnrido,  whieh, 
though  very  rich,  has  never  been  -worked  so  as  to  yield  much.  Mr.  Coignet, 
who  examined  tho  mine,  says : 

The  quartz  croppings  are  white,  with  reddish  tints  in  the  cracks,  and  eontaining  crystals 
of  feldspar,  of  carbonate  of  lime,  and  of  iron.  Tho  free  gold  which  had  been  found  on  the 
surface  changed  readily  into  tellurets  of  gold  and  silver,  and  into  auriferous  iron  pyrites, 
which,  by  their  decomposition  when  in  contact  with  the  atmosphere,  hare  spread  a  reddish 
hue  over  the  rock.  In  these  ledges,  among  which  the  Stanislaus  offers  an  example,  the  thick- 
ness of  the  quartz  varies  considerably,  both  in  its  course  and  incline,  whereas  the  roofing 
[hanging  wall]  remains  perfectly  regular.  Thus,  from  the  middle  of  the  tunnel  to  within  a 
few  feet  of  the  shaft,  at  tho  northern  extremity  of  French  and  Wood's  claim,  the  croppings 
have  a  thickness  of  more  than  six  feet,  whilst  beyond  that  space  the  quavtz  disappears  in  the 
slate,  without,  however,  causing  a  break  iu  the  lead.  At  the  bottom  of  the  shaft  just  men- 
tioned the  lead  has  a  depth  of  six  inches  and  coutMins  numerous  crystals  of  tellurets.  At 
riO  feet  south  of  the  entrance  to  the  middle  tunnel  a  shaft  was  formerly  sunk  by  Mexicans, 
by  means  of  which  a  largo  sum  was  taken.  There  also  the  quartz  has  disappeared,  and  the 
ore  is  found  in  the  slate. 

Tlie  rich  deposits  of  the  lead  are  found  in  chimneys  with  a  horizontal  incline  of  about  31 
degrees  to  the  south  in  tho  walling,  [foot-wall,]  and  in  the  small  ([uartz  feeders  which  follow 
tho  line  of  the  slate  formations,  and  at  their  junction  with  the  principal  leads.  It  is  of  im- 
portance to  observe,  with  regard  to  this  mineral  system,  that  tellurets  are  found/exclusively  ' 
in  the  quartz  which  contains  crystals  of  feldspar  and  carbonates  of  lime  and  of  iron  ;  and 
hence,  whenever  these  minerals  are  met  with,  the  speedy  appearance  of  ore  may  be  relied 
upon. 

The  compact  quartz  of  the  lead  is  often  found  to  contain,  and,  in  fact,  generally  does  con- 
tain, auriferous  iron  pyrites,  which  are  sometimes  of  great  richness.  The  slate  formations  in 
which  the  lead  is  imbedded  are  also  full  of  iron  pyrites,  but  contain  no  gold,  or  perhaps  a 
very  small  amount.  The  difference  between  these  two  kinds  of  pyrites  is  such  that  they  can 
be  readily  distinguished  from  each  other.  The  richest  pyrites,  in  fact,  seldom  crystalize  very 
distinctly,  being  iu  compact  masses,  which  clearly  exhibit  the  numerous  lines  of  cleavage  ; 
they  are  very  bright,  and  have  a  very  distinct  yellowish  appearance.  The  indifferent  pyrites, 
on  the  contrary,  are  found  in  well-defined  cubical  crystalizations,  isolated,  and  with  a  sharp 
edge,  and  visually  disseminated  through  the  slate  formations. 

Throughout  the  length  of  the  zone  [the  main  pay  chimney]  the  roofing  [the  lianging 
wall]  is  well  defined,  but  the  walling  [tho  foot  wall]  is  irregular,  and  composed  of  quartz 
feeders  which  follow  the  stratification  of  tho  slate  formations  and  finally  unito  with  small 
quartz  veins  containing  feldspar,  carbonates  of  lime,  and,  as  is  the  case  always,  somo  tellu- 
rets. The  association  of  these  minerals  is  so  perfectly  verified  that  when  one  is  met  there  '13 
a  certainty  of  the  presence  of  the  others  at  a  short  distance.        *  #  »  » 

These  ores  are  sometimes  of  an  extraordinary  value;  thus,  during  my  visit  to  Melones,  an 
assay  which  I  made  myself  on  four  ounces  of  suiphurets  and  tellurets,  taken  from  a  concen- 
tration of  second-class  ores,  yielded  $150  of  gold  and  §1  of  silver,  or  about  §17,5U0  to  the 
ton  of  concentrated  suiphurets.  »  »  *  No  process  of  economical  manipulation  of  this 
class  of  ores  has,  as  yet,  been  found  without  inflicting  serious  losses.  The  concentration 
which  has  to  be  resorted  to,  costly  iu  itself,  still  permits  the  escape  of  a  largo  portion  of  tho 
precious  metals. 

Charles  A.  Stetefeldt,  a  mining  engineer  and  metallurgist,  to  whom  spoci- 
mous  of  the  ore  from  tho  Stanislaus  mine  wore  submitted,  wrote  a  report,  in  which 
Lo  said : 

These  ores  are  of  extraordinary  interest  for  the  mineralogist  and  metallurgist,  since  besides 
theJr  great  richness  iu  native  gold,  they  contain  also  telluric  gold  and  silver  in  such  quan- 
tities as  have  never  before  been  known.  Telluric  ores  of  all  kinds  are  extremely  rare,  and 
found  only  in  small  (juantities  at  the  following  places  :  at  Offcnbanya,  Salathna,  and  Nag- 
yag,  in  Transylvania  ;  at  Schemnitz,  in  Hungary;  at  the  Sawodin.sky  mines,  in  the  Altai 
mountains ;  and  at  Spottsylvania,  in  Virginia,     liut  at  none  of  these  places  are  the  telluric 


G2-  EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

ores  as  important  as  in  the  Stanislaus  mine ;  on  the  contrary,  the  quantity  found  in  them  is 
so  small  that  no  rcpular  process  for  their  reduction  can  be  said  to  be  in  practice.         *         * 

The  samples  of  ore  from  the  Stanislaus  mine,  shown  to  me  by  you,  contain  large  quantities 
of  sylvanite  or  graphic  tellurium,  of  steel-g^ay  color  and  metallic  lustre,  by  far  the  richest 
tellurium  ore,  and  smaller  quantities  of  the  tellurium  of  lead,  recognizable  by  its  tin-white 
color  and  great  lustre.  It  is  probable  that  other  con^binations  of  tellui-ium  will  also  be  found 
on  a  closer  examination  of  the  ores.  *  *  #  «  #  » 

Science  indicates  and  your  own  experience  fully  proves  that  the  ores  are  not  suitable  for 
amalgamation.  Quicksilver  not  only  fails  to  absorb  any  portion  of  the  gold  contained  in  the 
telluric  combinations,  but  the  presence  of  the  latter  prevents  the  quicksilver  from  producing 
its  natural  effect  even  upon  the  native  gold,  so  that  even  of  the  latter  a  comparatively  small 
percentage  only  can  be  obtained  by  amalgan'ation.  Nor  would  the  matter  be  much  helped 
Ijy  separating  the  tellurium,  were  that  practicable,  by  roasting,  for  the  Stanislaus  ores  contain 
a  considerable  amount  of  tellurid  of  lead,  and  the  lead,  as  is  well  known,  is  most  injurious 
to  amalgamation.  *  *  *  'jj^^j  distribution  of  the  ores  in  the  vein  renders  a 

separation  of  them  by  hand  into  three  or  more  different  qualities,  according  to  richness,  com- 
paratively easy  and  inexpensive.  These  ditferent  qualities  I  would  submit  separately  to  a 
process  of  wet  concentration,  which  for  the  richer  ores  would  have  to  be  carried  on  with 
extreme  care.  #*  ****** 

For  the  first  qualities,  which  contain  only  a  smaW  amount  of  gangue,  I  should  recommend 
cupellation  with  lead.  This  process  consists  in  melting  a  ^  quantity  of  lead  in  a  cupelling 
furnace  and  gradually  adding  the  finely-crushed  ore  as  soon  as  the  lead  begins  to  oxydize, 
and  a  coating  of  litharge  is  thereby  formed  on  the  surface.  The  ore  flouts  about  on  the  molten 
lead,  and  the  base  metals  becxame  oxydized  through  contact  with  the  atmospheric  air  and 
with  the  litharge  or  oxyd  of  lead,  which  has  a  tendency  to  give  up  its  oxygen.  The  oxyda- 
tion  of  the  base  metals  immediately  liberates  the  gold  and  silver,  which  combine  with  the 
molten  lead  and  are  retained  by  it  while  the  oxydized  base  metals  form  with  the  litharge  a 
thoroughly  fluid  slag,  which  can  be  raked  off ;  as  much  further  ore  can  then  be  added  as  the 
lead  is  capable  of  absorbing. 

If  experience  should  show  that  a  part  of  the  tellurium  also  passes  into  the  molten  lead  ra  a 
metallic  state,  instead  of  at  once  oxydizing  and  combining  with  the  litharge,  it  will  then  be 
necessary  to  carry  on  all  the  earlier  stages  of  the  cupelling  process  in  furnaces  especially 
constructed  for  that  purpose.  The  lead  which  has  absorbed  all  the  gold  and  silver  out  of  the 
ore  can  be  worked  in  these  furnaces  as  long  as  necessary  to  oxj-dize  all  the  tellurium,  which 
will  then  gradually  form  tellurite  of  lead,  and  be  raked  off  like  the  first  slag  formed  in  the 
beginning  of  the  proces^.  The  purified  lead  can  then  be  removed  to  the  cupelling  furnace 
and  the  cupellation  be  proceeded  with  in  the  ordinary  manner. 

Saj^ta  Cruz. — The  Santa  Cniz  mine  is  1,500  feet  long  on  tlie  western  brancli 
of  the  mother  hjde.  north  of  the  St<anishius  river.  This  vein  is  barren  so  far  as 
examined,  except  in  the  walls,  where  it  is  crossed  by  two  smaller  veins,  which 
rn-n  west  15°  north.  Some  of  the  rock  has  jneldcd  $300  per  ton.  A  tunnel  240 
feet  long  has  been  cnt,  reaching  the  vein.     No  work  is  being  done  now. 

UiviOJf. — The  Union  mine,  400  feet,  is  on  Carson  Hill,  and  the  vein  is  sup- 
posed to  be  a  branch  of  the  mother  lode.  The  vein  is  30  feet  wide  in  places, 
bvit  the  best  pay  (from  $20  to  $70  per  ton)  has  been  found  in  a  seam  of  talcoso 
slate  from  two  to  four  feet  thick,  on  the  hanging  wall.  A  20-stamp  steam  mill 
is  being  built  now. 

Carson  Creek. — The  Carson  Creek  quartz  mine,  situated  on  a  branch  of 
the  mother  lode,  near  the  mouth  of  Carson  creek,  is  1,000  feet  long.  The  vein 
is  12  feet  wide  for  600  feet,  but  then  pinches  out  till  it  is  only  an  inch  or 
two  thick.  The  thick  part  of  the  claim  pas  been  prospected  to  an  average  depth 
of  40  feet,  and  rock  has  been  found  nearly  all  along  to  pay  $7  or  $8  per  ton, 
exclusive  of  a  few  rich  pockets.  The  wall  is  in  places  as  smooth  as  glass.  There 
are  parts  of  the  vein  where  the  quartz  contains  enough  argentiferous  galena  to 
yiekl  60  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton.  There  is  on  the  claim  a  10-stamp  mill, 
which  has  heretofore  been  used  for  dry  crushing,  but  is  now  being  remodelled  for 
wet  crushing.  The  pulp,  after  passing  from  the  battery  and  over  copper-plate, 
is  to  be  settled  in  tanks,  from  which  the  sand  will  be  taken  to  be  ground  in  Hep- 
bum  pans  and  amalgamated  afterwards  in  arrastras  with  iron  floors  and  stone  drags. 

BovEK. — The  Bovee  mine,  465  feet  long,  at  Angelo,  includes  four  veins  wliich 
here  represent  the  mother  lode.  The  main  vein  seems  to  be  talcose  slate  near  the 
surface?,  and  is  from  20  to  30  feet  wide.  The  lirst  vein  to  the  west  of  this  is  two 
and  a  half  feet  wide,  and  baiTeu,  and  underlies  a  heavy  bed  of  talc,  three  and  a 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  63 

half  foot  wide.  Tlio  next  vein  is  throe  feet  ^vido,  and  contains  $S  or  SlO  rock. 
Then  conic  two  foet  of  slate,  beyond  which  in  ;i  vein  15  foot  wide,  with  hard 
white  barren  quartz  on  the  hanjj^iiiij  walh  At  a  depth  of  120  feet  it  is  only  three 
feet  thick,  and  carries  ricli  snlphinets  in  spots.  The  character  at  that  depth 
changes  from  a  brittle  white  to  a  bhieish,  spernuiceti-likc  quartz,  whicli  promisoiJ 
well.  The  main  vein  is  a  hard,  white,  barren  qnartz,  with  occasional  spots  of 
pulpliurets.  It  is  supposed  from  the  dip  of  tliese  veins  that  they  will  me(?t  and 
unite  about  400  feet  below  the  surface.  At  the  surface  they  are  about  200  feet 
apart  between  the  outer  linos. 

The  deepest  workings  arc  130  feet  down,  and  at  60  foot  drifts  have  been  run 
350  feet  on  the  vein.  All  the  rock  pays  not  less  than  $6  per  ton  ;  but  there  are 
two  pay  chimneys,  which  appear  to  be  nearly  vertical,  and  which  jiaid  $16  near 
the  surface,  and  yield  $26  \k'v  ton  at  a  depth  of  120  feet.  Seams  of  slate  appear 
on  the  surface,  but  are  not  found  below.  Talc  is  found  mixed  with  the  quartz, 
and  is  ricb  in  sulphurcts.. 

As  soon  as  a  blast  is  let  otF  in  tlie  mine  there  are  men  who  set  to  work  to  break 
and  select  the  rock,  throwing  aside  all  the  barren  stuff",  of  which  there  is  consid- 
erable. This  breaking  and  selection  needs  to  be  done  without  delay,  because 
after  the  rock  has  been  shovelled  about  it  becomes  so  dirty  that  its  quality  does 
not  show  without  washing. 

This  mine  was  long  known  by  the  name  of  its  first  owner,  Mr.  Winters,  and 
according  to  rumor  its  gross  yield  under  his  management  was  §500,000.  He 
worked  the  claim  along  its  whole  length  by  open  cut ;  and  in  his  early  workings 
Ity  picking  the  rock,  he  obtained  $2,000  or  $3,000  per  ton  in  an  aiTastra.  No 
such  vein  stone  can  be  found  in  it  now,  though  it  is  still  considered  a  rich  and 
very  valuable  mine. 

The  Bovee  mill  has  10  stamps  of  500  pounds  each,  driven  at  the  speed  of 
75  blows  per  minute,  with  eight  inches  drop.  The  screen  is  of  wire  No. 
20.  The  gold  is  amalgamated  in  the  mortar  with  loose  quicksilver,  and 
below  the  screen  there  is  a  copper  plate,  after  passing  which  the  pulp  goes 
into  a  tank  where  the  current  is  arrested,  and  through  another  where  the  cuiTent 
at  the  surface  is  not  arrested — that  is,  there  is  a  steady  di8ch*'''ge.  For  a  time 
Mr.  Bovee  ran  the  pulp  through  three  tanks,  one  below  the  other,  with  a  eon- ' 
stant  discharge  from  each ;  but  the  experiment  satisfied  him  that  the  two  last  did 
not  pay.  The  first  tank  below  the  mortar  catches  coarse  sand;  the  second 
catclies  fine  sand ;  and  the  third  and  fourth  fill  np  with  slmn  that  does  not  pay 
to  work.  The  sands  from  the  first  two  tanks  are  shovelled  upon  a  platform, 
frf)m  which  they  are  taken  to  charge  the  Wheeler  &  Randall  pans,  four  feet  in 
diameter,  in  which  they  are  ground  in  charges  of  800  pounds  each  for  three  hours. 
Half  an  hom*  before  the  grinding  is  done  the  mullers  are  raised  a  little,  and  four 
pounds  of  quicksilver  are  put  in.  The  pulp  while  in  the  pan  is  as  thick  as  it 
can  be  worked  convcnieutly.  To  each  charge  a  large  peck  of  hot  coal  and  wood 
ashes  from  under  the  grate  are  added,  and  steam  is  thrown  into  the  pulp. 
Wheeler,  the  inventor  of  tlie  pan,  recommends  the  introduction  of  200  pounds  of 
(piicksilver  at  the  c(mimence!nent  of  the  grinding.  Bovee  uses  only  foiu",  intro- 
duced near  the  close  of  the  grinding.  In  Mr.  Bovee's  opinion,  the  gTinding  is 
facilitated  and  hasteno<l  by  keeping  the  pidp  nearly  to  the  boiling  point  as  long 
as  it  is  in  the  pans.  Three  of  Knox's  pans  are  used  as  settlers  for  each  grinding 
pan.  The  rwns  last  for  two  weeks.  If  the  run  lasts  four  weeks  a  larger  pro- 
portioH  of  the  quicksilver  is  lost,  and  that  which  is  saved  is  coiTapt  or  dirty. 

Besides  the  stamp  and  pan  mill,  there  is  an  an'astra  mill  with  15  arrastras, 
driven  by  Gl  inches  of  water  on  an  oversluot  wheel  30  feet  in  diameter  and  three 
feet  wide.  The  roek  is  crushed  in  the  stamp  mill  as  fine  as  peas  for  the  arras- 
tras, in  which  it  is  ground  for  six  hours  in  charges  of  2S0  ])oinids  each.  The 
yield  in  the  pans  is  25  per  cent,  gi-eater  than  in  the  arrastras. 

Angels. — The  mine  of  the  Angels  Quartz  Mining  Company  is  900  feet  long, 


•  6^1  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

and  the  ■working'  vein  lias  an  average  width  of  15  feet  of  talcose  slate  mixed 
with  quartz.  The  quartz-lode  is  150  feet  west  at  the  surface,  and  it  is  supposed 
that  the  two  will  meet  about  300  feet  from  the  surface.  There  is  a  good  gouge 
on  both  sides  and  clay  slate  walls  to  the  vein.  The  mine  has  been  worked  for 
10  3-ears,  and  is  now  yielding  SS  per  ton,  though  assays  show  that  the  rock  con- 
tains from  $15  to  $20.  The  gold  is  very  fine.  The  mine  has  a  30-starap  steam 
mill,  with  a  Blake  cnisher  to  prepare  the  rock  for  the  stamps,  two  Whc^'ler  pans 
for  grinding,  a  Belden  settler,  and  lately  an  experiment  has  been  tried  with  one 
of  Ilesse's  pans.  The  pulp  is  discharged  from  the  mortar  through  a  slot  screen, 
the  orifices  being  as  wide  as  those  in  a  No.  40  wire  screen.  The  advantage  of 
the  slot  screen  is  that  it  discharges  more  freely,  as  the  holes  are  not  plugged  up 
by  the  sulphurets.  The  deepest  w"orkings  are  186  feet  deep,  and  the  drifts  ex- 
tend along  the  vein  350  feet,  in  pay  all  the  w^ay.  Most  of  the  early  workings 
were  in  open  cut,  and  the  rock  was  richer  at  the  sm-face  than  in  the  lower  levels. 

Hill. — Dr.  Hill's  mine,  412  feet  long,  is  also  working  on  the  talcose  slate 
vein,  which  averages  15  feet  wide,  and  contains  much  silicate  of  lime,  besides 
quartz,  the  slate  occupying  a  very  subordinate  portion  here.  The  proprieter  of 
the  mine  says  that  most  of  the  gold  is  found  in  threads  of  sulphate  of  barytes, 
and  in  bunches  of  silicate  of  lime.  Work  was  commenced  on  the  mine  in 
1857  with  arrastras,  and  has  been  continued  since  with  the  exception  of  three 
years.  The  total  production  is  estimated  at  $250,000,  and  the  amount  spent 
in  the  mine,  $300,000.  There  is  now  a  12-stamp  mill  at  work  on  it.  Tho 
depth  from  the  dies  in  the  moiiar  to  the  discharge  is  14  inches,  and  tho 
stamps  when  raised  to  their  highest  point  are  two  inches  deep  in  the  w'ater.  For 
a  time  no  screen  was  used,  but  the  result  of  the  experiment  was  not  satisfactory. 
The  present  screen  is  of  No.  60  wire.  Huntei-'s  amalgamator  and  Hill's  j^an  ai'e 
used.  The  latter,  named  after  its  inventor,  the  owner  of  this  mine,  is  a  •ircular 
copper  dish  six  feet  in  diameter,  six  inches  deep.  A  section  through  the  centre 
represents  a  segment  of  an  oval.  This  bowl  revolves  horizontally  on  a  cen- 
tral axis,  and  in  tho  centre  is  a  cup  to  hold  quicksilver.  The  pan  makes  18 
revolutions  p(.>r  minute.  The  whole  surface  of  the  pan  is  covered  \\ath  amalgam. 
One  of  these  pans  at  the  mill  of  the  Angels  Quartz  Mining  Company  saves  S200 
per  month,  it  is  said.  In  Hill's  mine  there  are  numerous  horses  of  baiTen  slate, 
and  in  one  place  a  trachytic  dike  15  feet  thick  crosses  the  lode  nmning  west- 
northwest  and  east-southeast.  About  five  per  cent,  of  the  pay  rock  consists  of 
sulphiu-ets.  The  silicate  of  lime  gives  a  milky  look  to  the  pulp  as  it  comes  from 
the  mortal'. 

Stickles. — The  Stickles  mine,  400  feet  long,  near  the  town  of  Angels,  on 
the  mother  lode,  which  is  there  20  feet  thick,  is  quartz  and  pay  all  the  way 
through,  with  numerous  seams  of  slate.  The  deepest  workings. are  80  feet  below 
tho  sm'fac<:>,  and  drifts  have  been  nm  120  feet  on  the  vein,  in  i)ay  rock  all  tho 
way.     There  is  a  10-stamp  mill  in  operation  on  the  mine. 

Utica. — The  Utica,  600  feet  long,  is  owned  in  San  Francisco.  There  was  a 
nine-stamp  mill  which  did  not  pay,  and  has  been  moved  away.  The  deepest 
Avorking's  arc  60  feet  from  the  surface. 

LiGUTNEK. — The  Lightner  mine,  400  feet  long,  owned  in  San  Francisco,  was 
worked  in  open  cut  for  three  or  four  years  to  a  depth  of  70  feet  with  a  10-stamp 
mill,  but  the  expenses  were  a  trifle  more  than  the  receipts,  and  so  tho  mill  was 
moved  away  and  tho  mine  left  idle.  If  wages  were  a  little  lower  this  mine 
would  pay,  for,  according  to  the  general  opinion  in  the  neighborhood,  there  is  a 
large  body  of  rock  that  will  yield  at  least  $4  or  $5  per  ton,  and  probably  $6  or  S8. 

Ella. — The  I^lla  mine  (known  also  by  the  names  of  the  Calaveras,  the 
Terrific,  and  the  Demorest)  is  seven  miles  northwest  of  Angels,  on  a  vein  which 
is  eight  feet  wide  and  crops  out  along  the  surface  for  80O  or  1,000  feet.  Tho 
vein-stone  is  a  hard  ribbon  rock,  rich  in  sulphurets,  with  a  seam  of  barren 
"  bastard  quai-tz"  in  the  middle.     The  ribV/On  rock  yields  S8  per  ton.     The  foot 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS  65 

wall  is  black  slate  and  the  hanging  wall  groon-stonc.  A  shaft  lias  Ix'cn  sunk 
110  feet,  and  drifts  have  been  run  35  foot  on  the  vein.  The  mine  is  in 
a  doej)  ravino  at  the  foot  of  Boar  mountain,  with  stoop  hills  on  botli  sides. 
Thoro  is  a  10-starap  mill,  but  both  mine  and  mill  are  now  standing  idle. 

At  Uiis  mine  an  exporimont  was  tried  of  roasting  the  rock  with  su})orheatcd 
steam.  A  funiace  was  built  20  foot  high  and  16  foot  in  diameter  extenially, 
with  an  ore  chamber  seven  feet  wide  at  the  bottom,  nine  feet  at  the  top, 
and  IG  feet  high.  The  fire  boxes  were  on  the  sides  of  the  ore  chamber  near 
the  l.iottom,  and  over  the  grating  ran  a  steam  pipe  full  of  orifices,  through  which 
steam  could  escape.  The  rock  as  it  came  from  the  mine  was  thrown  into  this 
fnrnace,  and  was  roasted  from  40  to  70  hours  at  a  red  heat  with  a  steady  dis- 
charge of  superheated  steam  from  the  pipes.  The  heat  was  reduced  by  shut- 
ting off  the  steam,  or  increased  by  letting  on  more.  The  expense  of  roasting  in 
this  method  was  $2  per  ton,  the  price  of  wood — the  only  fuel  used — being  $3  50 
per  cord.  The  sulphurots  were  completely  desulphurized  b}^  this  method,  and 
the  battery  crushed  twice  as  much  in  a  day  as  of  the  run  rock.  The  gold  in 
the  roasted  ore  amalgamated  readily,  but  the  quicksilver  was  lost.  The  experi- 
ment cost  825,000,  and  was  regarded  as  a  failure. 

West  Point. — West  Point  is  a  quartz  mining  towTi  between  the  middle 
and  the  north  fork  of  the  J\Iokelumne  river,  eastward  from  Mokelimme  Hill, 
from  which  it  is  12  miles  distant  in  a  direct  line,  and  16  miles  by  the  road. 
Its  elevation  is  about  2,800  feet  above  the  sea.  The  bed  rock  is  granite,  and 
the  limestone  belt  lies  three  miles  to  the  west.  Quartz  mining  is  conducted  here 
on  a  peculiar  system.  The  lodes  are  narrow  and  rich  in  sulphurots,  and  their 
wealth  is  confined  chiefly  to  pockets.  Mining  and  milling  are  separate  occupa- 
tions. One  set  of  men  get  quartz,  and  another  set  own  mills  and  do  custom- 
work.  The  "  pockety"  character  of  the  veins  renders  mining,  with  the  majority, 
a  very  irregular,  if  not  a  very  uncertain  business  ;  and  there  is  not  one  vein  in 
ten,  even  among  those  which  have  yielded  large  sums,  that  will  furnish  steady 
employment  to  a  mill.  The  custom  among  the  "pocket"  miners  is  to  hunt  for 
pockets  near  the  surface,  and  when  they  have  found  one  they  clean  it  out  care- 
fulh',  going  down  seldom  more  than  50  feet;  and  having  pounded  out  the  coarsest 
gold  in  a  hand  mortar,  and  sent  the  quartz  contauiing  the  finer  particles  to  a 
custom  mill,  they  leave  that  spot  and  hunt  for  another  pocket  near  the  surface. 
The  experience  of  those  who  have  gone  down  in  search  of  other  pockets  has  not 
been  encourging.  The  prospector  lays  bare  as  much  of  the  surface  of  the  vein 
as  he  can,  and  goes  picking  along  in  search  of  a  visible  speck  of  gold,  and  having 
found  that,  he  makes  a  careful  search  for  a  pocket  in  the  neighborhood.  When 
these  pocket  miners  are  successful  they  get  a  good  lot  of  money  at  once,  and  many 
of  them  live  high  till  it  is  gone,  and  then  they  may  have  very  plain  meals  for  three, 
six,  or  nine  months,  before  they  come  on  another  treasure.  It  is  said,  however, 
that  they  have  more  money  to  spend  than  any  other  class  of  miners  in  Calaveras 
count}'.  There  are  some  mines  here  which  give  regular  employment  to  mills 
owned  by  the  same  proprietors,  but  pocket  mining  and  custom  milling  are  fol- 
lowed more  extensive  here  relatively  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  State.  There 
are  about  100  men  who  make  pocket  mining  their  only  business.  If  the  quartz 
does  not  yiold  $15  per  ton  it  will  not  pay  them  ;  and  they  can  tell  by  a  brief 
examination  within  a  dollar  or  two  of  the  yield  per  ton.  When  they  have  found 
something  worthy  of  examination,  they  pound  up  a  fair  sample  in  a  hand  mortar 
and  boil  it  in  nitric  acid,  as  a  rude  mode  of  assay. 

In  the  neighborhood  of  West  Point  there  are  several  hundred  veins  tliat  have 
Lad  rich  pockets,  and  one  hill  400  feet  across  has  three  dozen  such  veins.  In 
many  of  them  the  gold  is  so  fine  that  none  of  it  can  be  obtained  in  a  liand  mortar. 
The  mining  laws  of  West  Point  give  200  feet  on  a  vein  to  a  cl;iim,  and  require 
one  day's  work  every  month  to  hold  a  claim. 
5 


"06  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

Fisher's  mill. — Fishei-'s  custom  mill,  one  mile  southeast  from  West  Point, 
has  been  running  11  years.  It  is  driven  by  water-power,  has  two  stamps  and 
two  aiTastras,  charges  $7  per  ton  for  working  rock,  and  works  two  tons  per 
day,  with  the  services  of  one  man.     The  whole  establishment  cost  about  S2,000. 

HaPwRIs's  mill. — Hams's  custom  mill,  on  Sandy  gulch,  a  mile  and  a  quarter 
west  of  West  Point,  has  five  stamps,  four  Brevoort  pans,  and  three  patent  con- 
centrators, and  charges  $5  per  ton  for  working  rock.  This  mill  was  built  four 
or  five  years  ago,  and  has  been  running  almost  constantly. 

Belcher's  mill. — The  Belcher  custom  mill,  a  mile  and  three-quarters  south- 
east of  West  Point,  has  eight  stamps,  but  does  not  run  regularly  because  of  the 
difficulty  of  getting  a  steady  siipply  of  water. 

Lacey's  mill. — Lacey's  mill  has  five  stamps,  and  does  custom  work  only. 

Skull  Flat  mill. — The  Skull  Flat  mill  is  two  miles  east  of  West  Point,  has 
ten  stamps,  goes  by  water,  amalgamates  in  the  mortar  and  in  copper-plates,  and 
uses  two  Hungerford's  concentrators,  but  does  nothing  as  j^et  with  the  concen- 
trated tailings.  The  Skull  Flat  Company  owns  claims  on  sis  or  seven  veins,  the 
widest  not  over  two  feet,  and  a  depth  of  100  feet  has  been  reached  in  several 
of  them.     The  veins  run  north  and  south,  and  the  rock  pays  $30  or  $35. 

Carleton. — The  Carleton  mine,  a  mile  and  a  half  northwest  of  West  Point, 
is  on  a  vein  a  foot  wide.  There  are  two  arrastras  which  were  built  in  1866,  and 
crush  and  amalgamate  each  a  ton  per  day. 

Vance  and  Mina  Rica. — Vance's  mill,  five  miles  west  of  West  Point,  has 
eight  stamps,  and  is  standing  idle.  The  Mina  Rica  has  two  veins  two  feet  thick, 
with  very  hard  quartz,  and  much  water  in  the  lower  levels.  The  mill  has  10 
stamps  and  10  Baux's  pans.  The  power  is  steam.  Both  mine  and  mill  ai'e 
standing  idle. 

Morris's  mill. — Morris's  mill,  near  West  Point,  has  two  arrastras  and  a 
roasting  furnace.  All  the  ore  is  roasted,  and  according  to  report  the  yield  is  $50 
per  ton,  whereas  without  roasting  it  yields  only  $3, 

IMosQUiTO. — The  Mosquito  mine,  1,500  feet  long,  is  five  miles  west  of  West 
Point,  on  a  vein  five  feet  wade  in  slate.  A  large  quantity  of  rock,  yielding  $7 
per  ton,  was  obtained  near  the  surface  ;  and  now  a  tunnel  is  being  cut  to  open 
the  mine  to  a  considerable  depth.  The  mill  w'as  built  in  1857,  and  was  rebuilt 
in  1863.     It  has  15  stamps,  and  is  standing  idle. 

Railroad  Flat  mill. — The  Railroad  Flat  custom  mill,  13  miles  east  of 
Mokelumne  Hill,  has  10  stamps,  was  built  in  1866,  and  does  not  get  enough 
business  to  keep  it  running  constantly.  The  veins  in  the  vicinity  have  not 
been  well  opened. 

WoODHOUSE. — The  Woodhouse  mine,  5,000  feet  long,  is  between  the  forks  of 
the  Mokelumne  river,  14jmiles  bythe  road,  eastward  from  Mokelumne  Hill.  The 
vein  is  four  feet  wide,  runs  north  and  south,  and  dips  to  the  west  at  an  angle  of  45°. 
The  walls  on  both  sides  are  granite,  and  there  is  a  white  clay  gouge,  which  is 
generally  found  on  the  foot  wall.  The  croppings  of  the  vein  show  for  two  or 
three  miles.  The  pay  quartz  is  white  near  the  surface,  and  at  greater  depth  is 
bluish  and  rich  in  sulphurets.  The  barren  quartz  is  white,  glassy,  and  coarse- 
grained. The  first  pay  chimney  is  found  1,800  feet  from  the  south  fork  of  the 
Mokelumne  liver,  (which  is  the  boundary  of  the  claim,)  and  900  feet  above  its 
level  on  the  mountain  side.  This  chimney  is  150  feet  long  horizontally.  After 
an  interval  of  600  feet  another  chimney  is  found,  and  this  one  is  400  feet  long, 
beyond  which  the  lode  is  baiTen  for  200  feet,  and  then  it  splits  up  for  1,000  feet 
into  small  branches  less  than  a  foot  wide.  These  contain  good  pay,  and  one 
shaft  has  been  sunk  100  feet  to  work  them.  Beyond  this  place  the  vein  has  not 
been  prospected.  The  rock  from  the  diilerent  chimneys  can  be  distinguished  by 
persons  familiar  with  the  mine.  All  the  rock  in  the  pay  chimneys  is  worked. 
The  vein  is  crossed  by  several  trap  dikes  which  are  nearly  vertical,  dipping 
slightly  to  the  south.     They  appear  to  bear  no  relation  to  the  position  of  the  pay 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  (5V 

cliimnoys  ;  tliat  is,  the  appearance  of  a  dike  is  not  considered  an  indication  oC  the 
proximity  tif  a  chinuiey.  3Iost  of  tlie  work  has  been  done  through  cross-tunnels 
■which  strike  tlie  vein  200  or  300  feet  from  tlie  surface.  The  mine  has  a  15- 
stanip  mill,  which  has  crushed  14,000  tons  of  rock  and  taken  out  $140,000.  After 
tlie  pulp  has  been  amalgamated  in  the  mortar  and  on  copper-plates,  it  is  concen- 
trated on  blankets,  and  the  blanket  washings  are  ground  and  anaalgamated  in 
live  Brevoort  pans.  The  mill  is  driven  by  two  30-foot  overshot  water  wheels. 
There  is  a  considerable  quantity  of  loose  or  "float"  rock  along  the  surface;  of  the 
vein,  and  3,000  feet  of  11-inch  iron  pipe  are  to  be  obtained  for  the  purpose  of 
■washing  this  float  rock  by  hydraulic  process.  Much  ttf  the  gold  in  the  rock  from 
the  lower  levels  is  lost  in  the  sulphuretSj  and  an  agreement  has  been  made  for 
the  erection  of  a  revolving  furnace  to  roast  15  tons  in  24  hom's,  at  a  cost  of  S3 
per  ton. 

Holmes. — The  Holmes  mine,  1,G00  feet  long,  south  of  the  Woodhouse  and 
atljoining  it,  was  opened  in  1866.  The  vein  is  eight  feet  wide,  and  has  been 
ojiened  by  tunnel  along  a  length  of  500  feet.  The  mine  has  a  10-stamp  mill. 
The  sidphurets  contain  from  $300  to  $1,300  per  ton. 

BosTOX. — The  Boston  mine  adjoins  the  Woodhouse  on  the  north,  and  was 
■woi'ked  by  an  eight-stamp  mill  in  1853,  but  did  not  pay.  The  mill  was  washed 
away  afterwards.  Some  j\Iexicans  are  now  at  work  on  -the  mine,  with  two 
aiTastras  driven  by  water.     They  obtain  their  rock  from  small  rich  chimneys. 

QcAiL  Hill. — Quail  Hill,  near  the  western  line  of  the  county,  has  a  large 
deposit  of  auriferous  talcose  slate,  containing  seams  of  quartz  and  copper  ore.  It 
is  not  a  well-defined  vein,  but  the  general  course  appears  to  be  northwest  and 
southeast,  and  the  dip  60°  to  the  northeast.  The  width  is  about  60  feet.  Much 
of  the  surface  has  been  washed  in  sluices,  which  paid  at  times  very  well.  The 
total  yield  in  sluices  was  not  less  than  $25,000,  and  besides  the  gold  150  tons 
of  good  copper  ore  w-erc  obtained.  This  mine  is  the  property  of  a  San  Francisco 
compan}^,  which  is  now  building  a  20-stamp  mill  and  constructing  a  ditch  11 
miles  long  from  Salt  Spring  resei-voir.* 

*  Professor  Silliman,  in  a  paper  read  before  the  California  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences, 
said  : 

In  the  search  for  ores  of  copper  which  occurred  in  California  in  what  is  now  known  as  the 
copper  belt  of  the  Lower  Sierras,  deposits  of  iron  rust,  as  they  were  called  by  the  miners, 
■were  observed  at  numerous  points  far  below  the  range  of  the  main  gold  belt  of  the  Sierras. 
Several  of  these  ochraceous  deposits  had  been  previously  located  by  prospecting  miners  for 
gold  before  there  was  any  knowledge  or  suspicion  even  of  the  existence  of  ores  of  copper  in 
connection  with  them.  It  was  a  matter  of  common  observation  that  certain  gulches  or  water- 
courses in  the  neighborhood  of  these  rusty  deposits  were  rich  in  placer  gold,  having  been 
worked  for  gold  from  an  early  date.  The  search  for  copper  in  this  kind  of  deposit  was  not 
commercially  successful,  although  there  were  shipments  of  greeu  and  blue  carbonates  of 
copper,  red  oxyd.and  metallic  copper,  to  a  limited  extent  from  both  the  localities  here  referred 
to,  (the  Harpending  mine  in  Placer  county,  and  the  Quail  Hill  in  Calaveras, )  the  metal  from 
which  was  known  to  contain  a  notable  value  of  gold  and  silver,  stated  to  be  about  $50  to  the 
ton  of  ore.  This  search  for  copper  has  howeyer  opened  up  these  deposits  so  as  to  display 
their  character  in  a  conspicuous  manner. 

The  rocks  appear  to  have  been  originally  talcose  and  chloritic  schists,  sometimes  mica- 
ceous, enclosing  masses  of  argillite,  and  of  quartz,  which  appears  to  have  been  massive 
enough  at  certain  points  to  assume  the  character  of  a  vein,  and  parallel  to  the  stratification, 
which  has  the  visual  northwestern  strike  and  easterly  dip  of  the  region.  All  this  mass  of 
material,  which  at  Quail  Hill  is  certainly  300  feet  wide,  and  possibly  twice  that,  and 
•with  a  linear  extent  exceediug  1,000  feet,  appears  to  have  been  very  highly  impregnated 
or  mineralized  by  sulphurets,  chiefly  of  iron,  with  a  portion  of  copper,  zinc,  and  lead. 
The  sulphurets  have  undergone  almost  total  decomposition  throughout  the  entire  mass, 
leaving  soft  ochraceous  deposits  of  a  rusty  red  and  yellow  color,  and  staining  the  rocks  with 
brilliant  color,  a  peculiarity  which  the  miners  have  characterized  by  the  name  of  "calico 
rocks."  This  decomposition  or  oxydation  of  the  sulphurets  has  extended  to  a  point  as  low 
as  atmospheric  influences  extend,  or  probably  to  a  point  where  water  is  permanently  found, 
which  at  Quail  Hill  is  assumed  to  be  about  170  feet  below  the  outcrop  of  the  mass.  Dikes 
of  porphyry  and  of  other  rocks  commonly  called  intrusive  are  seen  dividing  these  great  ore 
channels  in  a  direction  conformable  to  the  line  of  strike.     But  the  decompositiou  which  has 


■•^r 


68  EESOUKCES    OF    STATES    AND   TERRITORIES 

Collier. — The  Collier  claim,  one  mile  southeast  of  Quail  Hill,  is  similar  in 
character  to  the  preceding  mine,  and  has  been  worked  in  the  same  manner. 
The  total  yield  is  estimated  at  ^10,000.  It  is  said  that  if  the  mill  at  Quail 
Hill  succeeds  one  ^\'ill  be  built  here. 

affected  other  portions  of  the  ore  channel  appears  also  to  have  changed  them,  for  they  are 
found  to  be  reduced  completely  to  the  condition  of  kaolin  andlithromarge.or  kindred  altera- 
tions of  feldspathic  rocks.  The  outlines  of  the  feldspar  crystals  are  stiU  easily  distinguished, 
although  the  mass  of  the  dikes  is  completely  friable. 

In  another  paper  on  the  mine  Professor  Sillimau  says  the  explorations  made  for  copper 
liave  laid  open  the  deposit  sufficiently  to  disclose  clearly  its  true  nature,  extent,  and  almost 
incalculable  value  in  gold  and  silver.  It  is  an  ore  channel,  conformable  like  all  the  copper 
mines  of  the  region  to  the  line  of  strike  of  the  rocks,  not  less,  probably,  than  300  feet  in 
width,  and  perhaps  more  than  twice  that  width.  Its  eastern  wall  is  distinctly  seen  in  the 
open  cut,  as  shown  in  the  section,  dipping  easterly  about  70°.  The  western  wall  has 
never  been  seen,  but  is  certainly  pretty  far  down  the  slope,  on  the  western  side.  The 
contents  of  this  enormous  channel  of  ore-bearing  ground,  so  far  as  exposed,  are  entirely 
decomposed  by  chemical  agency,  so  that  they  offer  to  the  miner  and  geologist  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  cases  known  of  the  total  destruction  of  metallic  sulphurets  which  plainly 
once  filled  the  whole  chasm,  now  converted  into  gossans  or  oxides  of  iron  of  various  colors, 
and  carbonates  of  copper,  mingled  with  masses  of  spongy  and  white  quartz,  of  talcose  and 
chloritic  rocks,  rotten  porphyry,  heavy  spar,  &c.,  &c.,  all  so  completely  changed  and 
decayed  by  the  causej  alluded  to  that  the  entire  mass  yields  to  the  pick  and  shovel  in  any 
direction.  This  extreme  decay  of  the  original  contents  renders  the  study  of  the  mass  at  first 
a  little  difficult ;  no  sulphurets  of  any  kind  remain  visible  to  guide  the  eye,  but  iu  their 
place  everywhere  the  results  of  their  decomposition. 

The  mass  is  evidently  a  gigantic  vein,  the  main  constituent  of  which  was  a  highly  sulphu- 
retted quartz,  holding  originally  iron  and  copper  pyrites  throughout  its  entire  mass ;  these 
sulphurets,  and  the  quartz  itself,  being  very  uniformly  impregnated  at  all  parts  with  gold 
and  silver.  Examined  by  the  battea,  the  pan,  or  the  horn  spoon,  no  part  of  the  contents  of 
this  great  ore  channel  fails  to  give  abundant  "  prospects"  of  gold.  Even  the  dry  cherty 
croppings  broken  from  all  parts  of  the  hill,  without  selection,  gave  an  ample  show  of  gold. 
The  gulch  at  the  base  of  the  hill  has  always  yielded  good  washings,  and  does  so  still,  the 
source  of  which  is  from  the  ores  of  Quail  Hill.  I  found  the  gold  in  nearly  all  the  varieties 
of  mineral  contents  contained  in  the  hill,  showing  that  any  attempt  at  selection  would  be 
useless,  and  that  the  whole  of  the  mass  must  be  worked  as  it  runs,  except  certain  layers  of 
soft  white  rock,  resembling  kaolin,  which  are  probably  too  poor  in  gold  to  pay  for  working. 

Extent  of  Explorations. — This  mass  has  been  opened  by  a  cut  driven  82  feet  into 
it,  beyopd  the  line  of  the  east  wall,  by  an  incline  57  feet  long,  at  an  angle  of  3S°,  and  by  a 
shaft  42  feet  below  the  cut,  sunk  in  pursuit  of  copper  ore.  The  shaft  in  the  open  cut 
explores  the  mass  over  80  feet  below  the  walls  of  the  cut  and  nearly  150  feet  below  the  crown 
of  the  hill.  Another  shaft,  sunk  100  feet  south  of  the  open  cut,  opens  the  deposit  to  a  total 
depth  of  90  feet  under  the  crown  of  the  hill.  Near  Gopher  Gulch  is  another  shaft  62  feet 
deep,  which  passes  into  the  unchanged  sulphurets  2o  feet,  it  is  said,  from  its  mouth,  (this 
shaft  has  water  in  it  now,)  or  about  170  feet  under  the  hill. 

The  position  of  all  these  openings  is  seen  on  the  map  ;  but  there  is  a  tunnel,  not  shown 
on  the  map,  run  some  70  feet  into  the  hill,  on  the  west  side,  and  several  hundred  feet  (about 
850  feet)  beyond  the  western  limits  of  the  location,  in  which  the  entire  mass  of  the  hill  is 
still  seen  to  be  completely  decomposed  at  that  part  also,  the  tunnel  having  been  run  by  the 
pick  alone.  From  this  tunnel  I  obtained  spongy  quartz,  which  prospected  well  for  gold  ; 
but  this  point  is  very  far  west  of  the  supposed  productive  limits  of  the  deposit.  Numerous 
surface-pits  have  also  been  sunk  over  the  hill  iu  various  places  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining 
averages,  from  all  of  which  gold  prospects  may  be  obtained  iu  the  pan. 

Valuk  of  the  Ores. — I  collected  for  assay  and  practical  workings  careful  samples 
from — 

1.  The  whole  face  of  the  open  cut  on  both  sides  and  end. 

2.  The  incline  shatt. 

3.  The  south  shaft. 

I  give  here  only  the  general  results  and  averages,  viz : 

(1.)  The  average  from  the  three  places  named  above  was  by  working  tests: 

Gold $29  18 

Silver 5  91 

Total  value  per  ton  of  2,000  pounds 35  09 

By  assay,  value  per  ton  of  2,000  pounds 50  17 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS  69 

Bkushville. — Tbe  Austin  and  Ilalliaway  mine  at.  Brusliville,  half  a  niilo 
south  of  the  Calaveras  river,  is  on  a  similar  deposit,  and  has  been  worked  down 
to  a  d(>pth  of  30  feet.  The  owners  itf  the  mine,  who  reside  in  San  Francisco, 
are  erecting  a  20-stanip  st(\im  mill. 

Plymouth. — The  Plymouth  mine,  2,000  feet  long,  at  Brusliville,  is  on  a 
deposit  similar  to  that  at  Quail  Hill.  Mr.  Ileuseh,  a  mining  engineer,  who 
examined  the  mine  in  1SG5,  said : 

This  mineral  deposit  may  bo  ilcsoribed  as  a  vein  or  belt  of  gold-bearing  quartz  imbedded 
in  a  soft  decomposed  talcose  rock,  the  whole  being  enclosed  between  two  nearly  perpendicu- 
lar walls  of  greenstone.     Tbe  quartz,  of  which  there  is  a  lode  of  about  eight  feet  iu  width, 

(2.)  Ten  (10)  small  samples  collected  at  various  points  in  the  open  cut,  with  a  view  to 
determine  where  the  ore  was  richer  or  poorer,  (the  details  of  which  are  appended,)  gave — 

Gold $17  08 

Silver 5  82 

Total 22  90 

Assay  value  of  same 24  70 


(3.)  A  large  lot  of  2,843  pounds  of  ores  collected  some  time  since,  under  direction  of 
Messrs.  Attwood  and  Peachy,  were  carefully  worked  by  Mr.  Lewis  Blaudiug,  giving  by 
working  tests  an  average  of — 

Gold.... $3.5  08 

Silver ]4  38 

Total 49  46 

Assay  value 82  65 

(4.)  Averaging  these  three  independent  sets  of  returns,  as  we  have  for  the  general  aver- 
age- 
Gold  $30  n 

Silver 8  68 

Averaging  total  working  tests 38  79 

Average  assay  value .52  51 


An  inspection  of  the  tabulated  results  given  in  detail  with  this  report  will  show  that  the 
silver  is  very  unequally  di.sposed,  being  found  in  greatest  quantity  in  the  incline  shaft  or 
near  its  mouth.  If  we  view  the  results  from  the  least  favorable  side,  even  accepting  the 
lowest  single  averages  as  those  most  likely  to  be  obtained  in  working  in  the  large  way,  it  is 
impossible  to  avoid  the  conclusion  that  the  whole  mass  of  the  ores  at  Quail  Hill,  so  far  as 
explored,  exceeds  the  average  gold  tenor  of  most  of  the  best  quartz  mines  of  the  State  of 
California. 

Cost  and  Mode  of  Treatment.— At  Quail  Hill  the  water-power  is  sufficient  to  move 
100  stamps,  as  the  water  is  delivered  under  an  estimated  pressure  of  about  200  feet  head. 
The  only  water  in  all  the  region  is  at  the  command  of  the  owners  of  Quail  Hill.  The  reser- 
voir has  a  present  area  of  over  650  acres,  and  the  right  of  flowage,  by  the  terms  of  its  loca- 
tion, of  an  elevation  of  15  feet  more  than  its  present  lieight.  A  line  of  survey  is  now  being 
run  for  a  ditch,  estimated  to  be  of  about  ten  (10)  miles  in  length,  to  couve}'  the  water  to 
Quail  Hill,  and  also  of  the  line  marking  the  area  of  tlowage  at  an  elevation  15  feet  higher 
than  the  present.     This  reservoir  fills  the  valley  known  as  Salt  Spring  Valley. 

With  these  facilities  it  is  estimated  that  the  cost  of  treatment  of  the  Quail  Hill  ores  will 
not  exceed  70  to  80  cents  per  ton,  including  the  cost  of  extraction  and  delivery  at  mill. 
The  mode  of  treatment  is  based  on  the  condition  of  the  gold,  which  is  all  free,  viz: 
amalgamatiou  in  battery,  double  discharge ;  moderately  coarse  screens,  No.  2  or  No.  3 : 
amalgamated  copper  aprons  and  riffles  ;  large  settlers  to  collect  amalgam  and  mercury  ;  an 
ample  flow  of  pure  water  to  aid  in  settling  the  residuum,  and  large  slime  pits  to  retain  the 
tailings,  are  the  main  features.  As  experience  iu  the  management  of  the  ores  teaches  us  better 
methods,  such  improvements  as  are  thus  warranted  may  gradually  be  introduced.  Blankets 
may  form  a  part  of  the  bystem,  following  the  copper  inclines. 

I  would  not  advise  an  estimate  .of  value  exceeding  .flU  per  ton,  net  saving,  or  , say  40 
and  50  per  cent,  of  the  demonstrated  value.  The  residue  is  not  lost,  and  the  ample  head 
and  flow  of  water  will  permit  the  company  at  any  future  time  to  set  up  ,a  pan  mill,  or  any 
other  approved  mode  of  working  over  th&  tailings,  provided  the  tailings  are  retained  as 
herein  advised,  and  should  be  found  valuable. 


70  RESOURCES   OF   STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

occupies  the  western  part  of  the  vein,  while  the  remaining  space  is  filled  with  the  anriferous 
talcose  rock,  the  whole  forming  a  regular  channel  of  gold-bearing  matter  of  about  40  feet 
in  width,  many  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  doubtless  many  hundred  feet  in  depth.  It  is  in 
fact  a  wide  chasm,  running  through  a  hill  several  hundred  feet  in  height,  and  filled  with 
auriferous  quartz  and  other  gold-bearing  matter. 

Mr.  Heusch  estimated  that  tliere  were,  witliin  300  feet  of  the  siirface,  in  a 
length  of  600  feet,  214,185  tons  of  auriferous  matter  that  would  yield  $10  gross 
and  $4  net  per  ton.  There  is  a  10-stamp  mill  on  the  mine,  and  it  began  to  run 
on  the  1st  of  September.     The  estimated  yield  is  $8  per  ton,  and  the  expense  $2. 

Lampheak. — The  Lamphear  mine,  1,800  feet  long,  is  two  miles  southeast  of 
Mokelumne  Hill,  is  on  a  vein  which  is  four  feet  wide,  and  has  been  worked  to  a 
depth  of  45  feet  and  to  a  length  of  100  feet.  Six  hundred  tons  of  rock  have 
been  worked,  and  some  of  it  was  quite  rich.  There  is  an  eight-stamp  mill  on 
the  mine. 

Cadwallader  mill. — The  Cadwallader  mill  has  three  stamps,  was  built 
for  prospecting,  and  is  not  at  work. 

French  mill. — The  French  mill,  at  Rich  gulch,  six  miles  east  of  Mokelumne 
Hill,  was  built  two  years  ago,  has  15  stamps,  and  is  standing  idle. 

McGtLTNn's  mill. — McGlynn's  six-stamp  mill,  erected  at  San  Andi'eas  to  crush 
quartz,  is  being  moved  to  Irvine's  claim,  on  the  old  channel,  to  crush  cement. 

Cherokee. — The  Cherokee  mine,  1,700  feet  long,  west  of  Altaville  and  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  west  of  the  line  of  the  mother  lode,  was  discovered  by  some 
placer  miners,  who  washed  the  gravel  and  clay  fi"om  the  surface  of  a  vein  of 
decomposed  quartz,  and  dug  up  the  carious  quartz  filled  with  auriferous  clay  and 
washed  that  too.  The  discoverers,  having  taken  out  S27,000,  sold  to  others, 
who  got  $9,000  and  then  leased  it  to  a  gentleman  who  obtained  $30,000 ;  and 
after  him  came  a  party  who  got  out  $25,000.  The  mine  is  now  owned  by  a 
citizen  of  San  Francisco,  who  has  a  16-stamp  mill  now  idle  on  it.  The  gold  is 
coarse  and  is  in  pockets,  and  most  of  the  rock  does  not  yield  more  than  $2  or  $3 
per  ton. 

San  Domingo. — At  San  Domingo  a  rich  auriferous  pocket  was  found  in  lime- 
stone, the  rock  yielding  $1,500  per  ton.  After  most  of  the  gold-bearing  quartz 
was  extracted  the  mine  was  sold  to  a  San  Francisco  company  for  $10,000.  They 
never  obtained  any  return  for  it. 

Murphy's. — At  Murphy's  a  similar  pocket  was  found  and  a  mill  was  erected 
at  a  cost  of  $40,000.  Although  water  could  have  been  obtained  in  constant 
supply,  it  was  driven  by  steam.  The  rich  rock  was  soon  exhausted,  and  the 
mill  was  sold  and  removed. 

At  Murphy's  there  is  a  three-stamp  mill  now  running,  called  the  Valparaiso  mill. 

At  Cave  City  some  rich  rock  was  found,  and  a  mill  was  built,  but  it  has  since 
been  moved. 

^At  El  Dorado  there  is  a  mill. 

Crispin. — The  Crispin  mine,  2,400  feet  in  length,  two  miles  west  of  Murphy's, 
is  on  a  vein  which  runs  east  and  west  and  dips  to  the  south  at  an  angle  of  80°. 
A  shaft  has  been  sunk  to  a  depth  of  100  feet,  and  drifts  have  been  run  150  feet 
on  the  vein.  The  width  of  the  lode  is  six  feet,  but  the  pay  is  confined  near  the 
smfacc  to  a  very  narrow  seam  next  the  hanging  wall,  though  it  widens  as  it  goes 
down.  The  pny  chimney  is  only  30  feet  long  on  the  surface,  but  c.t  the  100-foot 
level  the  drifts  have  not  reached  the  end  in  either  direction.  The  walls  are  of 
slate,  with  a  gouge  of  auriferous  talcose  slate.  There  is  a  water-wheel  for 
])umping  and  hoisting,  but  no  mill.  A  custom  mill  crushed  225  tons  and  obtained 
an  average  of  $20  per  ton. 

A  quartz  lode  running  northwest  and  southeast  passes  through  Murphy's  and 
DoTiglas  Flat,  and  has  been  struck  at  many  places  by  placer  miners.  At  the 
surface  it  consists  of  decomposed  quartz,  and  all  along  its  line  quartz  boulders 
are  found,  and  some  of  them  have  been  rich. 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  7J. 

Isabel. — The  Isabel  mine,  about  half  a  mile  westward  from  Vallecito,  yielded 
$50,000  ill  a  single  pocket.  A  mill  was  erected,  but  as  it  did  not  pay  it  was 
moved  away,  and  the  mine  is  not  worked. 

Calaveritas. — The  Calaveritas  mill,  erected  about  10  years  ago  by  a 
French  company  at  a  cost  of  $110,000,  has  been  moved  away.  It  never  cruslied 
a  pound  of  quartz  from  the  mine  which  it  was  built  to  work.  Before  it  was 
completed  the  pocket  supposed  to  represent  the  average  richness  of  the  vein  was 
exhausted,  and  as  no  amiferous  rock  could  be  found  afterwards,  the  mill  had 
nothing  to  do. 

Albion, — The  Albion  mine,  in  Salt  Spring  valley,  three  miles  west  of  Copper- 
opolis,  has  been  worked  for  three  years  with  a  10-stamp  mill.  The  average  yield 
is  about  86  per  ton,  leaving  very  little  profit.     The  gold  coins  $11  per  ounce. 

Thorpe's. — Thorpe's  mine,  600  feet  long,  six  miles  west  of  Angels,  is  on  a 
vein  which  runs  northwest  and  southeast,  and  is  similar  in  its  gangiie  to  the 
Bovee  mine.  The  thickness  of  the  lode  is  three  feet,  and  the  yield  is  $10  per  ton. 
The  rock  is  crushed  and  amalgamated  by  two  arrastras,  driven  by  a  water-wheel 
24  feet  in  diameter. 

The  Ratcliffe  mine,  400  feet  long,  is  two  miles  southwest  of  Angels,  on  the 
Copperopolis  road.  The  vein  is  from  four  to  six  feet  wide,  and  the  rock  is  quartz 
mixed  with  talcose  slate.  This  mine  has  been  worked  at  intervals  for  three  or 
four  years,  but  steadily  for  18  months,  by  one  man,  who  throws  the  quartz  upon 
the  road,  where  it  is  ground  fine  by  the  heavy  wagons  passing  over  it,  and  then 
he  shovels  the  dust  into  his  sluice,  which  runs  along  the  road,  and  catches  the 
gold.     Thi3  is  the  only  lode  mine  worked  on  this  plan  in  the  State. 

CARPENTER.-~Adjoining  the  Ratclitie  mine  and  on  the  same  vein  is  the  Car- 
pencer  mine,  on  which  a  five-stamp  mill  was  erected  in  1855.  The  mill  was  moved 
to  Angels,  and  the  mine  is  now  lying  idle. 

PuKXELL. — The  Purnell  mine,  600  feet,  adjoining  the  Carpenter,  has  been 
worked  for  five  or  six  years,  and  a  10-stamp  mill  is  now  going  up  on  it. 


SECTION    VI. 

AMADOR    COUNTY. 

Amador,  one  of  the  smallest  mining  counties  of  the  State,  and  also  one  of 
the  most  prosperous,  lies  between  the  Mokelumne  and  Cosumnes  rivers,  extending 
from  the  summit  of  the  Sien-a  to  near  the  plain,  with  a  length  of  50  miles  and 
an  average  width  of  14.  It  owes  its  prosperity  chiefly  to  the  mother  lode,  which 
crosses  the  county  about  12  miles  from  the  western  boundar^^  and  has  within 
three  miles  three  mines,  which  have  all  been  worked  continuously  for  15  years, 
have  probably  produced  not  less  than  $8,000,000,  and  form  the  most  remarkable 
cluster  of  quartz  mines  on  one  vein  in  the  State.  Twelve  miles  further  cast, 
near  Volcano,  there  is  another  rich  quartz  mining  district,  which  has  some  pecu- 
liar features.  Otherwise,  the  county  has  not  much  wealth.  It  has  no  great 
thoroughfare  leading  across  the  mountains,  no  |)lacc  of  fashional)le  summer 
resort,  no  productive  mines  of  copper,  no  extensive  hydraulic  claims,  few  rich 
surface  placers,  and  no  quarries  of  marble  or  deposits  of  plumbago. 

The  agiiculture  of  the  county  is  prosperous  but  not  extensive.  The  fiirmers 
do  not  aim  to  do  more  than  supply  the  home  demand,  except  in  wine,  and  for 
that  there  is  no  regular  market  as  yet.  The  county  has  a  large  number  of  vine- 
yards, and  they  are  cultivated  with  care.  Timber  is  abundant  in  the  eastern 
part  of  the  county,  but  scanty  in  the  western. 

Near  the  eastern  boundary,  at  an  elevation  of  10,000  feet  above  the  sea,  is 
Silver  lake,  a  mile  long  and  a  halt  mile  wide,  surrounded  by  beautiful  scenery. 


72  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

It  will  probably  become  a  favorite  summer  resort  at  some  futm'e  time,  wlien 
better  means  of  access  are  provided. 

A  road  following  up  the  main  divide  between  the  Cosumnes  and  Mokelumne 
rivers,  in  this  county,  leads  across  the  Sierra  Nevada  through  the  Carson  pass. 
Tt  was  made  at  considerable  expense,  but  there  is  not  much  travel  on  it. 

The  most  remarkable  topographical  feature  of  the  county  is  the  Jackson 
butte,  which  rises  1,200  feet  above  the  adjacent  country,  five  miles  from  the  county 
seat.  In  form  it  is  a  regular  cone,  with  a  sharp  peak,  and  there  are  no  signs  that 
it  ever  had  a  crater,  although  it  has  often  been  spoken  of  as  an  extinct  A^olcano. 

Jackson  creek,  Sutter  creek,  Dry  creek,  and  Indian  creek,  which  drain  the 
county  between  the  rivers  that  serve  as  boundaries,  all  go  dry  in  the  spring. 
Water  is  supplied  by  28  ditches,  with  an  aggi-egate  length  of  433  miles  and  an 
aggregate  cost  of  $1,154,500.  The  only  large  ditches  are  the  Butte,  Amador, 
and  Volcano  ditches. 

The  county  debt  is  $100,000,  and  the  State  and  county  taxes  together  are 
$3  20  on  the  $100  of  assessed  value. 

Jackson,  the  county  seat,  formerly  had  rich  placers  in  its  neighborhood,  but 
now  depends  chiefly  upon  quartz.  Sutter  Creek  is  the  chief  town  and  business 
centre  of  the  county.  It  ranks  next  to  Grass  Valley  for  the  production  of  quartz 
gold.  Amador  and  Drytown  are  other  towns  situated  on  or  near  the  mother 
lode.  Volcano,  the  only  placer  mining  town  in  the  countj^  now  producing  much 
gold,  is  on  the  lime  belt,  and  has  diggings  very  similar  to  those  of  Columbia  and 
Murphy's.  Butte  Cit}',  which  depended  on  shallow  placers  and  was  once  popu- 
lous and  prosperous,  is  now  exhausted  and  abandoned.  Buena  Vista,  Forest 
Home,  Willow  Springs,  Shxbtown,  Clinton,  and  Aqueduct  City  are  also  worked 
out.  Tiddletown  has  a  few  good  hydraulic  claims,  and  Lanclia  Plana  several 
that  pay  a  little  more  than  expenses.  lone  City  is  surrounded  by  a  fertile 
farming  land,  and  there  are  more  than  1,000,000  vines  in  the  vicinity. 

The  quartz  mines  of  the  county,  as  a  class,  were  unprofitable  previous  to 
1858,  but  since  that  year  they  have  been  steadily  improving,  and  the  white  pop- 
ulation has  been  increasing.  It  is  estimated  by  county  oflicers  who  have  occa- 
sion to  make  close  observation,  that  1,000  Chinamen  have  left  the  county  this 
year. 

Several  high  ridges  or  divides  that  come  down  from  the  SieiTa  are  supposed 
to  consist  chiefly  of  gravel  with  rich  auraTerous  strata  in  them,  but  there  is  no 
proof  of  the  correctness  of  this  theory  save  the  general  resemblance  of  these 
ridges  to  others  known  to  be  auriferous. 

Volcano. — The  town  of  Volcano,  situated  on  the  lime  belt,  12  miles  east- 
ward from  Jackson,  was  so  named  because  it  is  in  a  deep  basin,  and  the  first 
miners  at  the  place  supposed  they  were  in  an  extinct  crater.  This  supposition 
has  not  been  accepted  as  correct  by  scientific  men  generally  who  have  visited 
the  place,  although  there  are  many  marks  of  volcanic  outflows  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. The  diggings  here  are  very  similar  to  those  of  Murphy's  and  Columbia 
on  the  lime  belt  further  south,  and  the  same  difficulties  of  drainage  have  been 
experienced. 

On  China  Hill,  south  of  Volcano,  are  the  following  hydraulic  claims  : 

Ross  &  Co.,  300  by  100  feet,  have  been  at  work  since  1855,  and  have  made 
$5  or  $6  per  day.  Uaring  the  last  three  years  three  men  have  been  employed. 
Their  claim  is  SO  feet  deo{>. 

Goodrich  &  Co.  have  200  by  100  feet,  have  worked  for  13  years,  and  have 
not  found  very  good  pay.  The  claim  is  SO  feet  deep,  and  will  last  four  or  five 
years.     There  are  two  men  at  work. 

Fan-in  &  Co.  have  300  by  100  feet,  and  are  working  to  a  depth  of  20  feet, 
below  which  they  have  no  drainagv^,  and  must  hoist  their  dirt.  The  claim  has 
been  worked  at  intervals  for  13  years,  and  now  employs  three  men. 

The  Murphy  &  Co.  claim  is  300  by  100  feet  on  the  surface,  and  100  feet  deep, 


i 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  73 

has  paid  from  $8  to  $12  per  day  to  the  hand  uu(il  within  the  last  year,  and  lately 
has  not  paid  expenses. 

There  have  been  a  nnmber  of  other  claims  on  China  Ilill,  but  they  are  either 
abandoned  or  of  little  note. 

At  the  month  of  China  Q-uleh  are  the  followini^  dump-box  claims  : 

Foster  &  Co.  have  400  by  loO  feet,  em])l()y  six  or  seven  men,  and  have  been 
at  \vork  since  1853,  excepting  from  1858  till  1862,  when  they  were  idle,  waiting 
for  the  completion  of  the  open  cut  to  give  them  drainage.  In  1866  they  tooK 
out  $8,-500  clear  of  expenses.  The  claim  will  last  three  years,  and  is  worked 
only  in  the  summer. 

Sullivan  «Su  Co.  have  200  by  150  feet,  commenced  work  in  1865,  and  have 
made  $3  or  Si  per  day  to  the  hand.  They  employ  four  men,  and  their  claim 
will  last  two  years. 

Armstrong  &  Co.  have  800  by  150  feet,  and  employ  five  men.  They  com- 
menced work  in  1852,  and  made  good  pay  till  1857,  when  work  was  stopped  for 
want  of  drainage.  In  1861  they  began  again,  and  did  well  till  1866,  in  which 
they  only  paid  expenses.  This  year  they  are  again  getting  good  pay.  The 
claim  will  last  seven  or  eight  years.     It  is  worked  only  in  the  summer. 

Ilayt  &  Co.  have  a  very  small  claim. 

On  Mahala  Flat,  Goodrich  and  Co.  have  a  hydraulic  claim,  200  by  100  feet. 
They  have  worked  since  1856,  and  have  made  wages  until  lately.  Two  men 
are  employed. 

On  Volcano  Flat  are  the  following  dump-box  claims,  which  are  worked  only 
in  summer : 

Terrill  &  Co.  have  400  by  100  feet,  and  employ  six  men.  The  claim  has 
been  worked  since  1861,  and  has  paid  very  well. 

Green  Sz  Co.  have  300  by  100  feet,  employ  five  men,  have  been  at  work  since 
1861,  and  have  made  good  pay. 

The  Italian  claim  has  been  worked  since  1865,  and  pays  well. 

Cerrelli  &  Co.  have  been  at  work  since  1865,  and  have  obtained  gcod  pay. 

Much  gromid  now  occupied  for  gardening  purposes  in  Volcano  will  be  mined 
out  within  three  or  four  years. 

Quartz  Regulations  of  Amadok. — In  Amador  county,  each  district  has 
its  own  mining  regulations  for  quartz,  as  well  as  for  placer  mining.  If  a  claim 
is  not  within  the  limits  of  any  district,  it  may,  according  to  custom,  be  recorded 
in  the  nearest  district,  and  held  under  its  laws. 

In  the  Volcano  district  a  lode  claim  for  one  person  is  200  feet  on  the  vein,  and 
75  feet  on  each  side. 

In  the  Pinegrove  district  a  claim  for  one  person  is  30b  feet,  and  100  feet  on 
each  side,  and  in  this,  as  in  the  Volcano  district,  one  day's  work  is  necessary  each 
month  to  hold  each  share. 

In  the  Volcano,  Pinegrove,  Clinton,  and  Jackson  districts  a  company's  claim, 
no  matter  how  large,  may  be  held  for  a  year  by  doing  worK  to  the  amount  of  $500, 
posting  a  notice  on  the  claim,  and  filing  notice  with  the  recorder  that  such  work 
has  been  done. 

In  the  .Jackson  district,  if  the  company  is  a  small  one,  it  may  do  work  to  the 
amount  of  §20  for  each  share,  and  this  will  hold  the  claim  for  a  year. 

Tliere  are  no  pocket  veins  in  Amador  county  similar  to  those  at  West  Point, 
in  Calaveras  county,  or  at  Bald  mountain,  in  Tuolumne.  The  limestone  at 
Volcano  is  full  of  bunches  of  quartz,  but  they  are  not  large  enough  to  work,  and 
there  are  no  regular  veins. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Volcano,  most  of  the  quartz  veins  cut  across  the  slates  at 
an  angle  of  45°,  and  run  between  15  and  30°  east  of  north. 

Elvan  com-ses  are  abundant  in  the  limestone. 

Quartz  Veixs  about  Volcano. — The  quartz  lodes  in  the  vicinity  of  Volcano 
generally  run  northeast  and  southwest,  cut  across  the  slates,  contain  considerable 


74  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

poilions  of  antimony,  arsenic,  lead,  and  zinc,  with  traces  of  tellurium,  and  are 
intersected  by  elvan  courses,  which  ran  north  and  south,  and  dip  to  the  west  at  an 
angle  of  70°.  The  elvan  courses  are  usually  from  one  foot  to  four  feet  in  thickness, 
and  the  intervals  between  them  are  very  irregular.  Quartz  veins  crossed  by  elvan 
courses  are  usually  poor  near  the  intersections.  Those  lodes  which  run  with 
the  courses  are  very  spotted,  rich  in  some  places,  and  poor  in  others.  Where 
the  quartz  is  thick  in  these  veins,  it  is  richer  than  in  the  nan-ow  places.  Pockets 
and  coarse  gold  are  rare. 

Marlette. — The  following  mines  are  on  the  mother  lode  or  its  branches.  The 
Marlette,  800  feet  long  on  the  mother  lode,  near  the  Mokelumne  river,  is  reputed 
to  1)0  rich,  but  unprofitable  on  account  of  the  high  cost  of  working.  There  is  a 
10-stamp  mill  which  has  been  idle  a  year  and  a  half. 

Coney. — The  Coney  mine,  800  feet  long,  is  half  a  mile  south  of  Jackson,  on 
a  vein  which  is  30  feet  west  of  the  main  mother  lode,  and  can  be  traced  for  10 
miles  b}^  its  croppings.  The  dip  in  this  mine  is  72°  to  the  northeast.  The  lode 
is  nine  feet  wide.  The  deepest  workings  are  200  feet  from  the  surface,  and  drifts 
have  been  run  300  feet  on  the  vein,  all  of  which,  so  far  as  examined,  is  pay  rock. 
For  150  feet  from  the  surface  there  is  much  slate,  and  lower  down  the  vein-stone 
is  all  quartz.  Near  the  hanging  wall  is  found  ribbon  rock,  containing  some  free 
gold,  which  is  rare  elsewhere.  Five  per  cent,  of  the  vein  matter,  and  in  spots 
20  per  cent.,  is  sulphurets,  which  yields  $7  50  per  ton  of  unconcentrated 
rock,  and  $200  per  ton  of  clean  sulphurets.  The  free  gold  yields  $6  per  ton, 
so  the  total  yield  may  be  put  down  as  $13  50  per  ton.  The  mill  has  16 
stamps  in  four  batteries.  Hendy's  concentrater  and  sluices  arc  used  in  concen- 
tration. It  was  necessary  for  the  purpose  of  working  this  mine  with  a  profit  to 
have  a  chlorination  establishment,  which  has  been  erected.  The  furnace  is  17 
feet  long,  12  feet  Vv-ide,  and  8  J  feet  high  outside,  with  a  smoke-stack  25  feet  high. 
There  are  two  reverberatory  hearths  one  over  the  other,  and  each  10  feet  square, 
with  a  capacity  to  hold  a  ton  and  a  half.  There  are  12,000  brick,  fifty  perch 
of  stone,  and  five  cubic  yards  of  soapstone  in  the  furnace,  which  it  is  supposed 
will  last  three  years.  A  charge  is  roasted  12  hovu's  in  each  hearth,  so  that  the 
furnace  has  a  capacit}^  to  roast  three  tons  in  24  hours.  The  total  cost  of  the 
estaldishment  was  $2,100,  and  the  cost  of  the  chlorination  is  estimated  at  $25  per 
ton  of  sulphurets.     A  cord  of  wood  costing  $4  is  consumed  in  roasting  three  tons. 

Blue  Jacket. — Adjoining  the  Coney  on  the  north  is  the  Blue  Jacket  mine, 
1,000  feet  long.  The  shaft  is  down  100  feet  deep.  Only  $1  25  per  ton  of  free 
gold  has  been  obtained,  and  $100  per  ton  from  the  concentrated  sulphurets.  No 
work  is  being  done  now. 

Trowbridge. — The  Trowbridge  adjoining  has  1,200  feet,  and  is  at  work, 
but  is  not  crushing.     The  Adams  mine  on  the  same  vein  is  not  crushing. 

Oneida. — The  Oneida  mine,  3,000  feet  long,  is  a  mile  and  a  half  north  of 
Jackson,  on  the  mother  lode.  The  course  there  is  nearly  north  and  south,  and 
the  dip  to  the  eastward  from  G5°  to  80°.  The  main  shaft  is  500  feet  deep,  and 
drifts  have  been  run  about  600  feet  on  the  vein;  the  width  is  from  10  to  40  feetj 
the  foot-wall  is  slate,  and  the  hanging  wall  greenstone.  The  quartz  is  white 
and  blue,  with  some  ribbon  rock  which  contains  more  free  gold  than  is  found  in 
other  parts  of  the  vein.  There  is  a  black  putty  gouge  on  the  foot-wall.  There 
are  two  pay  chimneys,  which  dip  to  the  north,  and  all  the  rock  in  them  is  pay. 
The  quartz  within  six  or  eight  feet  of  the  hanging  wall  yields  $30  or  $40  per 
ton,  but  the  average  of  all  worked  is  $17  50  per  ton.  All  the  ore  heretofore 
worked  has  been  taken  from  one  pay  chimney,  which  is  300  feet  long,  horizon- 
tally, at  the  surface,  and  400  feet  long  at  a  depth  of  400  feet.  The  vein  pinches 
out  at  the  ends  of  the  i)ay  chinmeys,  so  that  there  is  very  little  bairen  rock.  The 
walls  are,  in  places,  as  smooth  as  glass.  The  mine  is  opened  so  that  there  is 
ore  enough  in  sight  to  supply  60  tons  per  day  for  five  years. 

The  mine  was  discovered  in  1851  by  a  hunter  who  chased  a  rabbit  to  some 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  7^ 

large  quartz  croppings,  in  wliicli,  after  a  brief  exaininatiou,  lie  founrl  rich  speci- 
mens of  gold.  Since  then  work  has  been  ])rosecute(l  continuously  and  with 
almost  constant  profit.  Three  or  four  mills  were  l)uilt  successively,  and  the 
mine  has  changed  hands  a  dozen  times.  Man}^  thousand  tons  of  quartz  have 
been  crushed  from  it,  but  there  is  no  record  of  its  early  yield.  In  eight  mouths 
preceding  Juno  1,  1SG7,  $1'>5,000  were  taken  from  7,710  tons,  at  an  expense  of 
S5  per  ton,  leaving  $12  50  net  per  ton.  The  present  owners  have  not  had  pos- 
sessi(Ui  long,  and  they  have  expended  much  in  opening  the  mine  and  putting  the 
mill  into  good  condition.  The  superintendent  says  that  if  the  j)roprietors  had 
-lot  had  a  considerable  sum  of  money  at  their  control  after  purchasing  the  mine, 
they  would  have  been  ruined,  since  without  the  repairs  and  the  new  shafts  and 
levels  they  could  have  got  nothing. 

The  mill  has  60  stamps,  and  is  driven  by  steam.  Amalgamation  begins  in 
the  battery,  and  continues  on  copper  aprons  below ;  then  there  are  shaking- 
tables,  blankets,  copper  sluices  60  feet  long,  blankets  again,  and  sluices.  The 
screen  is  No.  4,  punched  in  slots.  One  per  cent,  of  the  ore  is  sulphurets,  which, 
when  concentrated,  yield  $200  to  the  ton. 

HaywaPvD. — The  Hay  ward  mine,  one  of  the  most  valuable  gold  mines  of  Cali- 
fornia, is  1,800  feet  long,  and  includes  two  old  claims  known  as  the  Eureka  and 
the  Badger.  The  average  width  of  the  vein  is  12  feet,  and  the  dip  75°  to  the 
east.  All  the  rock  is  taken  out.  The  hanging  wall  is  of  hard  serpentine ;  the 
foot-wall  is  of  slate,  polished  smooth.  The  foot-wall  swells  so  that  the  mine 
closes  entirely  up  behind  the  workmen,  and  saves  the  trouble  of  leaving  pillars, 
and  prevents  any  apprehension  of  caving  in.  There  is  a  continuous  black  putty 
gouge.  There  is  only  one  pay  chimney,  and  that  is  500  feet  long,  horizontally, 
on  the  sin-face,  and  at  1,200  feet  below  the  surface  the  supposed  length  is  600 
feet.  The  walls  come  together  at  the  ends  of  the  pay  chimne}-,  which  dips  to 
the  north  at  an  angle  of  about  80°.  The  deepest  incline  is  1,230  feet  deep,  the 
greatest  depth  reached  in  the  mines  in  California.  The  surface  of  the  earth  at  Sut- 
ter creek  is  900  feet  above  the  sea ;  so  the  lowest  drifts  in  the  Ha3r?\'ard  claim  are 
30C  feet  below  the  sea  level.  Work  was  commenced  in  1852,  and  has  been  con- 
tinued unintemiptedly  since.  A  10-stamp  mill  was  erected  on  the  Eureka  claim 
in  1852.  A  new  mill,  mth  20  stamps,  was  erected  in  1856,  and  20  more  were 
added  the  next  year.  A  10-stamp  mfll  was  built  on  the  Badger  or  southern 
claim  in  1854,  and  six  more  stamps  were  added  in  1857.  Mr.  Hayward,  the 
present  owner,  obtained  a  controlling  interest  in  the  Badger  in  1854,  purchased 
the  Eureka  in  1858,  and  became  sole  owner  of  the  Badger  in  1859,  thus  con- 
solidating the  two  claims.  There  are  three  shafts — the  southern  760  feet  deep, 
the  middle  960,  and  the  northern  1,230. 

At  the  level  of  760  feet  a  pillar  has  been  and  is  to  be  left  to  catch  the  water 
which  comes  from  the  surface.  About  45,000  gallons  were  hoisted  daily  in  buck- 
ets in  the  early  part  of  June — 25,000  from  the  southern  and  20,000'from  the 
northern  part  of  the  mine.  In  February  and  March  the  quantity  was  twice  as 
gi'eat. 

There  are  two  mills  now,  ^vith  56  stamps,  and  with  capacity  to  cnish  80  tons 
per  day,  but  at  times  much  quartz  is  sent  to  custom  mills.  The  gold  is  nearly 
all  free,  and  the  amalgamation  is  effected  chiefly  in  the  mortar  and  on  copper 
aprons.  The  sulphurets  are  saved  in  sluices.  For  the  first  200  feet  the 
Badger  mine  did  not  pay,  and  it  was  with  the  utmost  difficulty  that  the  mill 
was  kept  going,  but  the  vein  appeared  to  be  getting  wider  and  the  quartz  richer, 
and  work  was  continued,  with  some  trast  from  the  laborers,  until  the  receipt.s 
exceeded  the  expenses ;  and  soon  after  the  two  claims  were  consolidated  the 
Hayward  took  a  leading  position  among  the  mines  of  the  State.  Within  500 
feet  of  the  surface  the  average  yield  did  not  exceed  $10  or  $11  per  ton,  and  now 
it  is,  according  to  report,  $27,  with  a  wide  vein  and  125,000  tons  of  ore  in  sight — 
enough  to  keep  the  two  mills  going  for  five  years.     The  proprietor  of  the  mine 


76  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

has  a  great  fear  of  being  suspected  of  seeking  publicity,  and  tie  refuses  to  give 
information  about  the  details  of  his  receipts  or  expenses,  or  even  to  communi- 
cate his  experience  in  or  his  opinions  about  quartz  mining.  It  is,  therefore, 
necessar}''  to  rely  upon  the  statements  of  persons  not  connected  with  the  mine 
for  the  jneld ;  and  they  say  the  total  yield  has  been  $6,000,000 ;  the  gross  yield 
last  year  per  ton  $27  ;  the  net  yield,  $22  per  ton ;  the  amount  of  rock  worked 
in  1866,  30,000  tons ;  and  the  profit  of  that  year,  $660,000.  Much  rock  is  at 
times  sent  to  custom  mills  to  be  reduced.  The  quartz  in  sight,  it  is  estimated, 
will  yield  $3,375,000  gross,  and  $2,750,000  net. 

Sixty  miners  are  employed,  12  blacksmiths  and  engineers,  and  25  others  as 
feeders,  amalgamaters,  teamsters,  &c.  The  miners  and  laborers  in  the  mill 
work  by  two  shifts,  a  day  sliift  and  a  night  shift  of  10  hours  each ;  and  at  the 
end  of  each  week  the  shifts  change,  so  that  each  man  works  in  the  night-time 
one  week  and  in  the  day-time  the  next.  The  rock  is  canied  from  the  mine  to 
the  mill  on  a  tramway. 

Railroad. — The  Railroad  mine,  800  feet  long,  has  been  worked  four  years, 
has  produced  $70,000,  and  has  hajl  much  rock  which  yielded  $15  per  ton.  A 
depth  of  340  feet  has  been  reached,  and  drifts  have  been  run  300  feet  on  the 
vein.     There  is  no  mill  connected  with  the  mine. 

LoRiXG  Hill. — The  Loring  Hill,  700  feet  abreast  of  the  Railroad  mine,  on 
another  branch  of  the  mother  lode,  was  worked  for  ten  years,  paid  fi'om  $5  to 
$12  per  ton,  and  has  been  idle  for  five  j^ears.  "Work  is  soon  to  be  resumed.  A 
depth  of  150  feet  was  reached. 

WiLDMAN. — The  Wildman,  1,130  feet  long,  has  reached  a  depth  of  530  feet 
and  has  run  200  feet  on  the  vein.  There  is  a  12-stamp  mill,  which  is  busy  at 
custom  work. 

LiNCOLls'. — The  Lincoln  mine,  2,078  feet  long  on  the  mother  lode,  is  half  a 
mile  north  of  Sutter  creek.  The  course  of  the  vein  there  is  north  17°  west,  the 
dip  about  75°  to  the  eastward,  and  the  width  six  feet.  A  depth  of  669  feet  has 
been  reached  in  one  shaft  and  270  in  another ;  and  drifts  have  been  run  400  feet 
on  the  vein.  There  arc  two  pay  chimneys,  one  150  and  the  other  250  feet  long. 
They  dip  slightly  to  the  north,  although  their  lines  are  irregular.  The  mine  has 
been  worked  since  1851,  with  the  exception  of  a  couple  of  years.  About  3,500 
tons  have  been  extracted  annually  while  the  mine  was  worked.  Work  was 
stopped  in  November,  1866,  and  is  to  be  resumed  next  year.  There  is  a  20- 
stamp  w^ater-mill,  which  is  now  doing  custom  work  for  Hayward.  The  mill 
catches  90  per  cent,  of  its  gold  in  the  mortar,  3  per  cent,  on  the  apron,  5  per 
cent,  on  the  shaking  table,  and  2  per  cent,  on  blankets. 

Comet. — The  Comet  mine,  on  the  mother  lode,  north  of  Sutter  creek,  is  750 
feet  long,  and  a  depth  of  145  feet  has  been  reached.  The  mine  is  now  being 
opened  to  a  greater  depth. 

Hercertville. — The  Herbertville  mine,  1,200  feet  long  on  the  mother  lode, 
a  mile  north  of  Sutter  creek,  was  worked  from  1851  till  1859,  but  never  was 
profitable,  though  some  good  quartz  was  found.  A  depth  of  600  feet  was 
reached.     There  was  a  30-stamp  mill,  Avhich  was  burned  down. 

Keystoxe. — The  Keystone  mine  includes  claims  on  two  distinct  lodes — 3^000 
feet  on  the  Keystone,  which  runs  north  48°  west,  and  dips  eastward  at  an  angle 
of  52° ;  and  840  feet  on  the  Geneva,  which  is  280  feet  east  of  the  Keystone, 
has  a  dip  of  64°,  and  a  width  varying  from  3  to  7  feet.  The  foot  wall  of  the 
Geneva  vein  is  slate,  and  the  hanging  wall  is  a  hard  greenstone.  The  average 
width  of  the  Keystone  is  10  feet.  Professor  Ashburner,  in  a  report  on  the  mine, 
says  ''the  wall  of  this  (Keystone)  vein  on  the  west  is  generally  hard,  well-de- 
fined, and  regular ;  on  the  east  it  is  softer,  and  frequently  incorporated  with  the 
quartz.  The  ground  in  many  places  is  loose,  and  the  vein  seems  to  have  been 
subjected  to  great  pressure,  crushing  the  quartz  to  powder."  There  are  many 
horses  of  hornblendic  slate  in  the  Keystone  vein,  on  which  vein  most  of  the  work 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  77 

is  now  heini!^  done.  Tlio  (inartz  ia  mixed  with  black  luid  green  talcoso  slate^ 
and  the  o;reen  contains  jj^ood  i)ay.  The  CJeneva  vein  contains  G,'ood  pay  rock, 
bnt  it  is  harder  than  the  Keystone.  It  is  oalcuhited  that  the  two  venis,  il"  they 
maintain  their  present  diji,  will  nnite  at  a  depth  of  1,800  feet.  The  deepest 
shaft  is  down  375  feet,  and  dril'ts  have  been  rnn  450  feet,  in  pay  all  the  way. 
The  mine  was  opened  in  1851,  and  has  been  worked  continuously  since.  Tho 
total  quantity  of  rock  worked  has  been  44,000  tons ;  the  average  yield  i)er  ton, 
SlG ;  tho  total  yield,  $700,000.  The  croppings  were  rich.  The  present  mill 
lias  twenty  stamps,  and  is  driven  by  steam.  Most  of  the  gold  is  caught  by 
amalgamation  in  the  mortar,  and  on  the  copper  apron  below  the  scn^en ;  next  to 
■which  are  blankets,  and  the  tailings  from  them  are  ground  in  Hepburn  and 
Peterson  pans,  and  amalgamated  in  settlers  ;  and  the  pulp  is  concentrated  again 
for  sulphurets  in  Pratei'^s  concentrater.  The  rock  contains  one  and  a  quarter 
per  cent,  of  sulphurets  which  are  gold.  The  present  average  yield  is  $1G  per 
ton,  aiid  17,000  tons  have  been  worked  in  the  last  two  years.  The  yield  from 
December  8,  1865,  till  December  21,  1866,  was  $135,333  30;  the  'dividends, 
$51,300;  the  amount  spent  in  building,  $34,000;  the  current  expenses, 
$50,033  30 ;  and  tho  total  proiits,  $85,300. 

SrEiXG  Hill. — On  another  branch  of  the  mother  lode,  abreast  of  the  Key- 
stone, is  the  Spring  Hill  mine,  1,200  feet  long,  which  has  been  worked  to  a 
depth  of  350  Jk'et,  has  turned  out  50,000  tons  of  rock,  but  has  paid  little,  if  any- 
thing, bej'ond  expenses.  There  is  a  30-stamp  mill,  which  is  now  idle,  with 
the  exception  of  five  stamps  employed  on  custom  rock. 

Amador. — Adjoining  the  Spring  Hill  on  the  north  is  the  Amador,  which  is 
1,300  feet  long  and  was  worked  in  early  days  to  a  depth  of  240  feet. 

BuxKER  Hill. — The  Bunker  Hill,  1,200  feet  long,  has  been  at  work  since 
1854,  and  has  reached  a  depth  of  350  feet.  The  vein  is  six  feet  wide,  and  the 
rock  yields  $10  per  ton,  leaving  $3  profit.  There  are  several  faults  in  the  lode 
within  the  limits  of  this  claim.  The  mine  and  an  eight-stamp  mill  belonging  to 
it  are  the  property  of  gentlemen  residing  in  San  Francisco  and  in  Boston. 

Hazard. — The  Hazard  mine,  800  feet  long,  is  not  worked  now,  but  has  pro- 
duced 5,000  tons  of  rock,  some  of  which  yielded  $15  per  ton.  The  vein  is  thr(»e 
feet  wide,  and  there  is  an  eight-stamp  mill. 

Loyal. — The  Loyal,  600  feet,  has  a  20-stamp  mill,  and  both  mine  and  mill 
ai'e  idle. 

Italiax. — The  Italian  mine,  340  feet  long,  has  a  six-stamp  mill,  and  hag 
crushed  2,000  tons  of  quartz,  but  is  now  idle,  and  has  been  for  two  years.  It 
paid  very  well  near  the  surface. 

Seaton. — The  Seaton  mine,  a  mile  and  a  quarter  east  of  Dry  Town,  is  1,200 
feet  long  on  the  mother  lode,  which  there  averages  30  feet  wide.  About  10,000 
tons  of  quartz  have  been  worked,  yielding  $9  per  ton,  and  leaving  a  small  profit. 
There  is  a  40-stamp  mill  which  has  a  40-foot  wheel  to  drive  it  when  water 
is  abundant,  and  a  60-horse  power  steam-engine  for  other  times.  Tho  mill  is 
now  idle  waiting  for  the  fiu'ther  opening  of  the  mine.  The  deepest  works  are 
500  feet  from  tlie  surface.  The  mine  was  purchased  a  couple  of  years  since  by 
a  San  Francisco  company,  which  has  expended  $150,000  in  improvements. 

l*OTOSi. — The  Potosi  mine  is  800  feet  long,  has  been  worked  since  1852,  and 
has  a  good  pay  chimney  four  feet  wide.     There  is  a  16-stamp  mill  on  the  mine. 

Webster. — The  Webster  mine,  600  feet  long,  was  worked  for  a  long  time, 
but  the  rock  paid  only  $7  per  ton  leaving  no  profit,  so  the  mill  which  onco 
belonged  to  the  mine  was  moved  away  and  work  was  stopped.  The  average 
width  of  the  vein  was  six  feet. 

Plymoutu. — Tho  Plymouth  mine  is  1,200  feet  long  on  the  main  mother  lodo 
and  has  other  claims  on  branch  veins.  The  lode  is  twelve  feet  wide  there  on  an 
average,  and  the  rock  now  worked  yields  $8  per  ton,  at  a  depth  of  400  feet. 


!IS  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

The  qnartz  obtained  within  300  feet  of  the  snrfece  paid  $15  per  ton.  There  is 
a  15-stanip  water-mill  driven  by  a  water-wheel  38  feet  in  diameter. 

Entekprise. — The  Enterprise  mine  has  a  10-stamp  mill,  w^hich  commenced 
to  rnn  in  the  spring  of  this  year. 

Rtciimoxd. — The  Richmond  mine,  1,200  feet  long,  is  being  prospected,  and 
its  10-stamp  mill  is  standing  idle. 

IMeader's  Sulphuret  Works. — Meader's  sulphm-et  worlvs,  a  mile  and  a  half 
east  of  Sutter  creek,  was  fitted  up  with  machinery  invented  by  Mr.  Ambler,  con- 
sisting of  a  sizer,  grinder,  concentrator  and  pan,  bnt  the  establishment  has  not 
been  successful.  The  grinder  is  constructed  somewhat  like  a  coffee-mill,  of  cast 
iron,  with  ridijes  runnin<?  downward  on  a  cone  w'orking  against  other  ridges 

7  0  0  iJ  iO  CP 

running  in  a  contrary  direction  in  a  hollow  cone. 

Rose. — Rose's  mill  has  eight  stamps,  and  was  fonnerly  occupied  as  the  sul- 
phuret  establishment  of  Mr.  Thoss.  It  was  standing  idle  in  June  for  repairs. 
The  mine  whicli  is  to  supply  it  with  quartz  bad  been  opened  at  that  time  to  a 
depth  of  150  feet  and  to  a  length  of  60  feet. 

"VVoLVERiXE. — East  of  Jackson,  on  another  vein,  is  the  Wolverine  mine, 
1,000  feet.  It  was  opened  by  a  tunnel  100  feet  long,  and  500  tons  yielded 
$4  40  per  ton  of  free  gold.     No  work  is  being  done  now. 

Kearsing. — The  Kearsingmill  was  first  erected  at  Big  Bar  on  the  Mokelumne 
river  in  1855,  and  was  moved  in  18G3  to  the  vicinity  of  Jackso*  to  be  used  as 
a  custom  mill.     It  has  four  stamps  and  Ambler's  pan. 

IIixcKLET. — The  Hinckley  mine,  near  the  town  of  Jackson,  is  on  a  vein  not 
traced  elsewhere.  The  clail^l  is  600  feet  long,  and  it  has  been  opened  to  a  depth 
of  50  feet.  There  are  two  veins — one  from  three  to  seven  feet  in  width,  and  the 
other  pinches  out.  About  $15,000  have  been  taken  out  in  a  hand  mortar;  and 
some  rock  crushed  in  a  mill  yielded  $12  per  ton.  Much  of  the  gold  is  black  or 
purplish,  offering  a  singular  contrast  to  the  white  quartz  in  which  it  is  found. 
The  vein  was  first  struck  in  digging  a  cellar,  and  the  gold-bearing  quartz  was 
in  June  still  visible  in  the  cellar  wall.  Some  of  the  gold  is  found  in  little  sheets 
01  leaves  rolled  up  or  tied  up  in  a  very  singular  and  unaccountable  manner. 

Atchison. — Atchison's  mill,  one  mile  north  of  Jackson,  built  in  1867,  has 
20  stamps,  and  is  employed  on  custom  work.  It  was  built  to  work  an  unopened 
mine,  but  after  opening  no  pay  was  found. 

Tubes. — Near  the  Atchison  mill  is  Tubbs'  mill,  which  was  moved,  in  1866, 
fi-ora  the  vicinity  of  San  Andreas.  It  is  idle  now,  waiting  for  the  opening  of  the 
mine  which  it  is  to  work. 

Paugh. — Paugh's  mine,  1,000  feet  long,  is  seven  miles  east  of  Jackson.  The 
vein  has  not  been  found  beyond  the  limits  of  this  claim.  The  course  is  east- 
northeast  by  west-southwest,  with  a  dip  to  the  southeastward.  The  average 
thickness  is  seven  feet,  and  the  walls  are  slate  on  both  sides.  There  is  no  con- 
tinuous gouge,  but  such  as  there  is  is  yellow  in  color.  The  mine  has  been  worked 
for  two  years  and  a  half  and  a  depth  of  1 75  feet  has  been  reached.  Drifts  have 
been  run  on  the  vein  300  feet.  The  quartz  has  paid  from  the  beginning,  and 
the  average  yield  without  selection  is  $10  per  ton,  and  after  selection  812  or  $15. 
The  richest  quartz  is  found  near  the  foot  wall.  The  gold  is  fine  and  there  is  no 
"specimen  rock."  There  is  but  little  pyrites.  The  mill  has  10  stamps  driven 
by  steam,  and  was  built  in  1865.  The  pulp  is  amalgamated  in  the  battery  and 
in  copper  plates. 

Union. — The  Union  or  Steen  mine,  a  mile  and  a  quarter  south  of  Pine  Grove, 
is  3,000  feet  long  on  a  vein  which  is  eight  feet  thick  on  an  average,  and  runs 
northeast  and  southwest  with  a  dip  of  60°  to  the  southeast.  The  rock  is  a  blue 
ribbon  quartz,  richest  near  the  sides.  One  and  a  half  per  cent,  of  the  vein  matter 
is  sulplmret  of  iron,  lead,  zinc  and  antimony,  and  these  sulphurets  when  con- 
centrated assay  from  $200  to  $6,000  per  ton.  About  600  tons  of  rock  have 
been  worked,  giving  a  yield  of  $11  50  of  free  gold  per  ton ;  and  the  rock  heavily 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  79 

clwirg'ed  witli  sulpburcts  j'ielded  $4  50  in  the  battery  and  from  $22  to  Si 50  in 
the  jtan.  The  vein  has  been  opened  to  a  depth  of  197  feet  and  to  a  lengtli  of 
130  feet.  There  is  a  nine-stamp  steam  mill  built  in  1857.  The  pmprietor  of 
thi^  mill  lias  nsed  a  saturated  solution  of  eyanide  of  potassium,  bulk  for  l)ulk 
with  the  (piieksilver,  and  found  a  i^ain  of  23  per  eent.  in  the  yield  of  the  i^old. 
The  potassium  seems  to  loosen  the  sulphui'ets,  set  the  gold  free,  and  kee})  the 
quieksilver  clean. 

TellTirtum. — The  Tellurium  mine,  near  Pine  Grove,  owned  by  a  San  Fran- 
cisco company,  is  3,000  feet  long  on  a  vein  which  runs  north  40°  east,  di])S  to 
the  east  at  an  angle  of  75°,  and  is  seven  feet  wide.  The  walls  are  of  slate,  hard 
on  the  east  and  soft  on  the  west.  The  quartz  is  bluish  in  color,  and  the  pay, 
which  is  one-third  of  the  vein,  near  one  wall  or  the  other,  skipping  from  side  to 
side,  is  charged  with  seven  per  cent,  of  blue  sulphurets  of  iron,  lead,  antimony 
and  arsenic.  The  superintendent  of  the  mine  says  it  contains  tellurium  in  con- 
siderable quantities,  but  others  say  the  proportion  of  that  metal  is  very  slight. 
There  are  two  pay  chinmeys,  each  130  feet  long  horizontally.  A  cross  tunnel 
1,200  feet  long  strikes  the  vein  250  feet  from  the  surface,  and  drifts  have  been 
run  700  feet  on  the  vein,  or  on  its  supposed  course,  for  its  place  appears  to  be 
usurped  by  a  porphyritic  dike.  The  pay  rock  above  the  level  of  the  tunnel  has 
been  worked  out  and  the  drift  is  being  extended  in  the  hope  of  striking  another 
pay  chimney.  The  rock  yields  $25  per  ton  in  free  gold,  and  the  concentrated 
sulphurets  have  been  sold  at  $200  per  ton.  The  mill  was  built  two  years  ago, 
has  10  stamps,  and  amalgamates  in  a  mortar  and  on  copper  plates.  It  is  standing 
idle,  waiting  for  the  opening  of  a  new  body  of  pay  quartz.  The  superintendent 
of  this  mine  has  been  in  the  habit  of  making  large  assays  by  mixing  ptilverized 
ore  with  10  per  cent,  of  sawdust  or  charcoal,  and  moulding  with  a  little  clay 
and  water  into  bricks  which,  after  drying,  are  burned  with  the  assistance  of  very 
little  fuel  save  that  in  the  bricks.  He  considers  this  a  very  satisfactory  method 
of  buniing  out  the  sulphm'cts,  and  thinks  there  are  some  ores  which  would  pay 
for  working  altogether  by  this  method. 

AxACONDA. — The  Anaconda  mine,  near  Pine  Grove,  is  900  feet  long  on  a 
vein  four  feet  wide.  A  shaft  has  been  sunk  90  feet  and  drifts  have  been  run 
100  feet.  Some  of  the  rock  has  been  crushed  at  a  custom  mill  and  has  paid 
well.     The  mine  is  now  being  opened  to  a  greater  depth. 

Thoss. — The  sulphuret  mill  of  W.  H.  Thoss,  near  Pine  Grove,  is  the  only 
establishment  of  the  kind  in  the  State,  and  he  is  the  only  man  who  has  any 
repute  for  possessing  exclusively  any  valuable  metallurgical  secrets.  He  pays 
high  prices  for  sulphurets,  and  works  them  without  wasting,  and  in  a  few  instances 
he  has  worked  sulphurets  at  a  fixed  price  per  ton  or  on  shares.  Those  for  whom 
he  has  worked  speak  well  of  the  result  obtained,  and  the  general  impression  in 
the  neighborhood  is  favorable  to  his  claims.  He  says  that  his  process  is  valuable 
only  where  there  are  sulphurets ;  that  he  can  extract  90  per  cent,  of  both  gold 
and  silver  at  a  total  expense  of  $6  per  ton;  and  that  he  would  rather  have  new 
than  old  sulphurets.  In  the  chlorination  works  roasting  is  necessar}'  and  the 
silver  is  lost.  Among  those  who  speak  well  of  Mr.  Thoss  are  the  proprietors 
of  the  Sirocco  mine,  who  paid  him  SSO  per  ton  for  working  sulphurets,  and 
returned  them  $220  per  ton.  The  mill  consists  of  a  crocodile  crusher  which 
reduces  the  rock  to  the  size  of  peas,  and  of  two  cast-iron  pans  10  feet  in  diameter, 
cast  in  sections  and  enclosed  in  wood.  These  pans  have  each  four  heavy  green- 
stone mullers  which  make  25  revohitions  per  minute.  The  pans  take  charges 
of  750  pounds  of  cnished  quartz  or  sulplanx'ts  and  reduce  them  to  .mpalpable 
powder  in  five  or  six  hours.  From  the  pans  the  pulp  runs  into  a  lower  chamber 
into  which  nobody  but  the  proprietor  enters,  and  there  his  secret  process  of 
amalgamation  is  accomplished.  He  says  that  he  makes  from  $10  to  8G00  per 
ton  from  the  material  which  he  purchases,  and  that  the  supply  of  sulpliurets 
oflered  to  him  for  sale  is  live-fold  more  than  he  can  work.     He  does  not  enlarge 


^  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

his  establishment  because  it  would  be  necessary  to  communicate  his  secret  to 
others,  and  he  is  unwilling  to  do  that. 

Crafts. — The  Crafts  mine,  1,800  feet  long,  is  supposed  to  be  on  the  same 
vein  with  the  Anaconda.  The  course  is  east-northeast  and  west-southwest,  and 
the  dip  60"  to  the  southeast.  A  shaft  has  been  sunk  200  feet,  and  diifts  have 
been  run  125  feet  on  the  vein.  The  pay  chimney  dips  60°  to  the  northwestward. 
About  20  per  cent,  of  the  vein  matter  is  represented  to  be  sulphurets  of  iron, 
copper,  zinc,  and  tellurium.     There  is  no  mill,  and  little  work  has  been  done. 

GoLDEX  Eagle. — The  Golden  Eagle  or  Vaughn  mine,  two  miles  and  a  half 
southwest  of  Volcano,  is  900  feet  long  on  a  vein  which  runs  north  and  south, 
crossing  the  slates,  and  is  three  feet  wide.  A  tunnel  has  been  run  375  feet  on 
the  vein,  and  a  depth  of  170  feet  has  been  attained.  The  rock  yields  $15  per 
ton,  and  the  total  production  has  been  $50,000.  The  mill  was  built  in  1858  and 
rebuilt  in  1865.  It  has  10  stamps,  and  is  driven  by  water.  The  mine  and  mill 
have  been  worked  together,  although  there  are  some  owners  on  the  mine  not 
interested  in  the  mill. 

Belden. — The  Belden  mine,  owned  by  the  California  Furnace  Company, 
near  Pine  Grove,  is  on  a  vein  which  averages  18  inches  in  thickness,  and  runs 
north-northwest.  The  shaft  is  down  250  feet,  and  drifts  have  been  run  200  feet 
on  the  vein.  The  rock  is  rich,  but  it  pinches  out  in  places.  The  mine  has  been 
worked  for  10  years,  sometimes  at  a  profit,  and  sometimes  at  a  loss.  There  is 
a  five-stamp  mill  and  a  roasting  furnace  in  which  the  rock  was  roasted  as  it  came 
from  the  slopes. 

Pioneer. — The  Pioneer  mine,  three  miles  from  Volcano,  is  on  a  vein  18 
inches  wide  between  hard  granite  walls.  The  rock  is  rich  in  sulphurets  of  cop- 
per, arsenic,  and  antiraon3^  The  shaft  is  down  80  feet,  and  drifts  have  been  run 
250  feet  on  the  vein.  The  rock  yielded  $40  of  free  gold  near  the  smface,  but 
that  from  the  deeper  levels  did  not  pay,  the  precious  metal  escaping.  There  is 
a  five-stamp  mill,  which  is  standing  idle  with  the  mine  in  consequence  of  litiga 
tion. 

Mitchell. — The  Mitchell  mine,  1,200  feet  long,  is  on  a  vein  which  runs  north- 
east and  southwest,  and  is  12  feet  wide.  The  shaft  is  down  200  feet,  and 
drifts  have  been  run  100  feet  on  the  vein.  Some  of  the  rock  paid  $60  to  the 
ton,  and  thousands  of  tons  have  been  worked.  The  mine  is  troubled  by  water, 
and  common  rumor  in  the  neighborhood  says  the  late  explorations  have  not  been 
in  the  pay  chimney.  There  is  a  20-stamp  mill,  which,  as  well  as  the  mine,  is 
standing  idle. 

Golden  Gate. — The  Golden  Gate,  two  miles  from  Volcano,  is  1,800  feet  long 
on  a  vein  three  feet  wide.  A  depth  of  220  feet  has  been  reached,  and  drifts  have 
been  run  350  feet  on  the  vein,  in  pa}'^  chimneys  all  the  way.  About  2,800  tons 
have  been  worked,  and  rumor  in  the  neighborhood  says  the  yield  has  been 
$45,000,  or  $16  per  ton.  The  mine  is  being  opened  further,  but  a  10-stamp  mill 
belonging  to  the  mine  is  standing  idle. 

Sirocco. — The  Sirocco  mine,  a  mile  and  a  half  west  of  Volcano,  is  2,500  feet 
long,  on  a  vein  which  is  four  feet  wide,  and  runs  north  and  south.  A  depth  of 
350  feet  has  been  reached,  and  drifts  have  run  700  feet  on  the  vein.  The  total 
number  of  tons  worked  has  been  9,000,  and  the  average  yield  of  free  gold  in 
1866  was  $15.  Near  the  surface  some  of  the  rock  paid  $80  per  ton.  The  vein 
grows  wider  and  the  pay  less  per  ton  in  proportion  to  the  distance  from  the  sur- 
face. Ten  per  cent,  of  the  vein  matter  is  sulphurets,  which  yield  on  an  average 
$80  per  ton.  There  is  enough  ore  in  sight  to  keep  the  10-stamp  mill  busy  for 
two  years.  Before  1807,  the  sulphurets  were  sold  to  Mr.  Thoss;  now  they  are 
saved. 

Kelly. — The  Kelly  mine  has  one  claim  1,200  feet  long  and  another  1,500 
feet  long  on  two  veins  whicli  intersect  each  other ;  one  running  north  30°  east, 
.  and  the  other  north  70°  east.     Both  are  intersected  by  a  little  vein  which  runs 


W^ST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  9\ 

east  mul  west,  and  tliouifh  small  is  I'lill  of  metal.  A  depth  of  80  feet  lins 
been  reached,  and  drifts  have  been  run  l.^O  feet.  The  rook  averaged  $14.  A 
iMill  eontainini*  two  stamps  and  two  arrastras  was  erected  in  1857,  and  ran  four 
yeaits,  bat  Inw  since  been  idle,  and  so  has  the  mine. 


SECTION    VI!. 

-    EL    DORADO    COUNTY. 

El  Dorado  county  lies  between  the  CV)sumnes  and  the  Middle  fork  of  the 
American  river,  and  extends  from  the  eastern  l>oundary  of  the  tState  to  near  tho 
S;K'ramento  plain.  It  was  in  tliis  county  that  Marshall  made  his  discovery  of 
the  ijold  on  the  10th  January,  1848;  and  El  Dorado  was  previous  to  1 853  called 
the  Empire  county,  because  it  was  for  a  time  the  most  populous  in  the  State,  but 
it  is  now  surpassed  by  man}'  others. 

In  this  county  we  observe  various  features  not  found  in  Mariposa,  Tuolumne, 
Calaveras,  or  Amador. 

Granite  appeiu's  a«  the  bed  rock  on  the  western  border  of  the  mining  region. 

No  rich  quartz  veins  are  found  in  the  granite  at  an  elevation  of  2, .500  feet  or 
more  above  the  sea. 

The  lime  belt,  which  is  distinctly  traceable  across  Tuolumne,  Calaveras,  and 
Anuulor,  appears  at  Indian  Diggings  in  El  Dorado,  and  then  seen)s  to  be  lost. 

A  new  lime  l)clt  appears  very  distinctly  twelve  miles  west  of  the  main  belt. 
In  this  new  belt  is  the  beautiful  Alabaster  cave,  near  Centreville. 

El  Dorado  has  25  ditches,  with  a  total  length  of  821  miles,  constructed  at  a 
cost  of  $1,500,000.  Of  thcsethe  principal  are  the  South  Fork,  the  Pilot  Hill^ 
and  the  Michigan  Flat  ditches. 

Towns. — Placerville,  the  county  seat,  50  miles  from  Sacramento,  on  the  bank 
of  llangtown  creek,  has  some  hill  diggings  and  quartz,  and  is  the  most  pros- 
perous town  in  the  connty.  The  principal  mining  towns  are  Georgetown,  14 
miles  north;  Coloma,  10  miles  northwest;  Diamond  Springs,  thnse  miles  west; 
El  Dorado,  or  Mud  Springs,  live  miles  west;  Grizzly  Flat,  20  miles  southeast; 
Indian  Diggings,  25  miles  southeast;  and  Kelsey,  seven  miles  north. 

SlllXGLK  SpiaN(TS  IiAiLROAi). — El  Dorado  county  has  a  railroad  26  miles 
long,  extending  from  Folsum  to  Shingle  Springs.  It  was  commenced  with  the 
intention  of  extending  it  across  the  Sierra,  but  the  work  was  stopped  when 
the  road  reached  Shingle  Springs  in  18G5,  and  there  is  no  ])robability  of  i(s 
resumption  soon.     The  terminus  of  the  road  is  11  miles  from  Flacervillc. 

Placerville  Wagon  Road. — The  Placerville  road  is  the  best  wagon  roa<l 
across  the  Sierra  Nevada.  It  cost  $585,000,  and  as  now  travelled  from  Shingle 
Springs  to  Van  Syckles,  in  Ciu'son  valley,  is  82  miles  long.  The  steepest  gra<le 
is  six  degrees.  The  total  length  of  the  stretches  that  exceed  live  degrees  is  a 
mile  and  a  half;  there  are  five  miles  of  five  degrees,  10  miles  of  four  degrees, 
and  most  of  the  roful  is  under  two  degrees,  with  a  ver}'  regular  and  ea.sy  ascent. 
In  1858  Sacramento  and  El  Dorado  comities  eacli  subscribed  $25,000  to  construct 
a  wagon  road  across  the  mountains;  but  the  road  was  not  good  enough  for  the  pui- 
}^(.se,  and  in  1860  the  present  road  was  commenced  by  private  enterprise,  and  waa 
linished  in  1863.  It  was  of  vast  sen'ice  to  the  State  and  to  Washoe  during  tho 
silver  excitement,  and  was  for  a  time  very  profitable  to  the  owners.  Altiiough 
other  routes  have  lower  passes  and  easier  grades,  no  other  can  compete  with  tliis 
for  the  ordinary  pnqioses  of  wagon  travel,  because  this  is  on  the  shortest  route 
between  Sacramento  and  Virginia  City,  is  an  excellent  road,  and  is  kept  in  fine 
condition.  In  18G3  the  total  amount  of  tolls  taken  on  the  road  was  $190,000, 
6 


82  EESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

and  the  expenses  were  $70,000 ;  in  1866  the  receipts  wei'e  865,000,  and  the 
expenses  $'50,000.  The  road  is  watered  every  evening  along  its  whole  length 
by  water  carts,  which  are  stationed  at  intervals  of  three  miles.  This  is  found  to 
he  the  cheapest  method  of  keeping  the  road  in  good  condition,  for  if  it  were  left 
dry  it  would  have  deep  dust,  which  would  obstruct  the  wheels  and  blow  away, 
leaving  deep  ruts.  About  one-fourth  of  the  expense  in  keeping  the  road  in  order 
i.s  required  to  keep  the  snow  down.  Last  winter  snow  lay  for  nine  miles  on  the 
road,  and  10  span  of  horees  were  kept  for  the  special  purpose  of  breaking  it 
down.  There  was  a  station  in  the  middle  of  the  snow  belt,  and  whenever  it  began 
to  enow  a  man  started  with  a  team  and  a  sled  in  each  direction  to  tlie  end  of  the 
enow  belt  and  then  drove  back ;  tlien  took  another  team,  and  the  horses  were 
kept  going  as  fast  as  they  could.  In  this  way  the  snow  was  packed  down  and 
the  road  was  made  liard  and  lit  for  travel.  It  would  be  useless  to  shovel  the 
enow  ft'om  the  road,  which  would  immediately  drift  full.  The  toll  for  a  four- 
horse  wagon  from  Shingle  Springs  to  Van  Syckles  and  back  is  S'17  50,  three- 
fourths  being  for  the  eastern  trip.  Most  of  the  freight,  however,  has  been  earned 
in  wagons  drawn  by  more  than  four  horses.  The  V)est  teams  have  10  mules  and 
two  wagons,  the  second  wagon  being  smaller  and  fastened  innnediately  to  the 
fii-st.  An  ordinary  load  for  such  a  team  is  20,000  pounds.  The  advantages  of 
having  two  wagons  instead  of  one  are  that  one  wagon,  unless  made  in  a  most 
unwieldy  manuer,  would  not  be  strong  enough  to  support  tlie  weight ;  that  the  two 
wagons  do  not  cut  up  the  road ;  that  if  there  is  a  mud-hole,  oul\-  a  small  part  of 
the  weight  is  in  it  at  a  time ;  that  at  any  steep  pitch  in  the  road  the  wagons  can 
be  separated,  and  each  hauled  up  separately;  and  that  one  teamster  can  as 
easily  take  care  of  two  wagons  as  of  one.  The  cost  of  tlie  first  wagon  is  about 
$600;  of  the  second,  $!300^;  and  of  good  mules,  $.300;  making  83,900  as  total 
cost,  exclusive  of  harness.  The  tolls  on  a  round  trip  from  Shingle  Springs  to 
Van  Syckles  are  $26  25;  and  the  total  necessary  outlay  on  a  trip  8240.  Thit? 
is  the  most  extensive  toll  road  in  the  United  States. 

Miscellaneous  Resources. — A  considerable  pai-t  of  the  marble  nsed  for 
tombstones  in  California  is  obtained  from  a  marble  quarry  at  Indian  Diggings. 
Stealite,  or  soapstono,  of  very  good  quality  is  obtained  from  a  quarry  near  Phi- 
Gea"ville,  and  numerous  places  in  the  coimty  supply  a  chalk-liko  silicate  of  lime 
tliat  is  used  in  San  Francisco  for  polishing  metals,  especially  silver-ware.  The 
county  has  85,000  acres  of  enclosed  land,  22,000  acres  under  cultivation,  1,164,000 
grape-vinos,  91,000  apple  trees,  52,000  peach  trees,  saws  10,000,000  feet  of 
lumber  annually,  has  taxable  property  assessed  at  83,500,000,  and.  casts  5,000 
v^tes.  Agriculture  has  made  more  progress  in  this  than  in  any  other  mountain 
county,  perhaps  because  of  its  proximity  to  Nevada,  which  it  supplies  with  fi-esh 
and  canned  fruit,  with  wine,  and  with  many  kinds  of  vegetables.  Tlie  possos- 
Fdon  of  the  Placerville  road  across  the  mountains  has  done  much  to  bring  business 
(o  the  C;4)unty.  The  Alabaster  cjive  in  tlie  northwestern  corner,  and  I^iiko  Tahot* 
at  the  northeastern,  are  both  places  of  fashioualde  resort. 

'J'he  Blue  (Jjiannel. — There  are  several  old  channels  in  El  Dorado  county, 
and  they  appear  to  belong  to  two  different  systems  of  drainage  and  periods  of 
oxistenoo.  They  may  be  distinguished  as  the  blue  and  the  gray,  according  to 
the  eolor  of  the  cement  or  gravel  found  in  their  beds.  The  blue  is  prior  in  time, 
and  only  one  blue  channel  haa  been  distinctly  traced  in  the  county.  It  runs 
from  the  northwest  to  the  southeast,  nearly  with  the  course  t)f  the  slates,  and  ha.^ 
iK^n  found  ;it  '\V'hit()  Rook,  Smith's  Flat,  and  Tryagain  tunnel.  Tbe  channel 
is  220  feet  wide,  and  250  fc^t  above  the  level  of  Weaver  creek.-  The  rim  i  (X5k 
i.'i  never  loss  than  eight  feet  hight^r  than  the  bottom  of  the  channel.  The  cen.ent 
is  harder  and  more  brittle,  and  contains  more  (piartz,  and  quartz  of  a  bluer  color, 
and  pebbles  smaller  and  more  uniform  iu  size  than  the  gray  cement.  This 
channel,  with  its  well-defincHi  banks  and  a  deep  covering  of  lava,  fcnned  a  bed 
iu  which  ran  a  subt^jrrauean  stream  of  water  that  broke  out  in  springs  on  the  hill- 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  83 

side,  uliei'C  the  chaimol  wat*  cut  tlinnii^li  Ijy  Wober  crock,  and  the?  quantity 
of  water  was  sufficient  to  sup])ly  Placcrville  when  it  liad  4,000  inliabitants.  A 
tunnel  company  working  in  the  basin  of  llani^town  creek  cut  a  tunnel  acrotw 
thi.s  old  channel,  and  the  stream  of  water  which  had  previously  run  down  to 
Weber  creek  then  ran  out  throus^h  this  tunnel  into  llani;-to\Vn  creek.  The  tunnol 
company  sold  the  water  to  the  Placerville  AVatcr  C'oui])any,  but  the  South  Fork 
Canal  Company,  which  had  previously  appropriated  tlu;  water  of  Ilangtown 
creek,  brought  suit  for  the  water  on  the  ground  that  Hangtown  creek  wiis  tho 
natural  outlet  for  this  water,  and  that  they  owned  it  by  prior  right.  Professor 
Silliman  was  called  as  a  witness  l)y  the  defendants,  and  after  examination  ho 
testilied  that  the  waters  never  had  run  into  IFangtown  creek,  but  that  until  tho 
tunnel  was  cut  their  only  escape  was  at  the  springs  on  the  bank  of  Weber  creok. 
The  plaintitls,  after  seeing  the  testimony,  discontinued  the  suit.  This  is  the  only 
case  kntiwn  to  us  oi  a  legal  investigation  into  the  character  of  an  ancient  aurifer- 
ous channel  in  California. 

Gkay  Channels. — Tho  gray  cement  is  in  several  channels,  which  rise  20 
miles  or  farther  east  of  Urockliss's  bridge,  and.  runs  westward  across  the  bluo 
channel  and  at  a  higher  level  in  the  divides  between  the  present  streams.  The  gray 
cement  is  from  20  to  50  feet  deep,  and  is  found  on  both  sides  of  Ilangtown  creok, 
in  high  hills,  which  have  been  prospected  along  a  length  of  10  miles,  and  worked 
with  profit  in  many  places.  The  old  channels  were  cut  through  by  numei'ous 
ravines,  which  earned  the  gold  down  to  the  creek,  and  thus  made  the  bed  of. 
that  stream  rich  as  it  was  in  early  days.  The  following  are  the  principal  claims 
on  the  Weber  divide,  south  of  Ilangtown  creek,  commencing  at  Coon  Hollow,  on 
the  north  side,  and  going  eastw^ard. 

Claims  o:^  W^eber  i)iYiDE. — Aldersen  Brothers  Hydraulic  claim  has  l>een 
worked  12  years,  has  paid  largely,  and  employs  six  men.  The  claim  is  150  feet 
deep,  and  uses  200  inches  of  water. 

The  Phillips  and  Packer  claim  is  800  feet  long  by  300  wide,  and  80  deep.  It 
employs  three  men,  and  has  paid  Avell  at  times. 

The  Italian  claim,  1,000  feet  long,  was  worked  for  years  by  hydraulic  process, 
but  now  tho  pay  dirt  is  brought  out  through  a  tunnel. 

The  Weber  claim  is  worked  as  a  drift  claim  in  the  summei",  when  water  is 
scarce,  and  as  a  hydraulic  claim  in  the  winter.     It  yields  large  pay.  ; 

The  claim  of  the  San  Francisco  Cement  Gravel  Company  is  1,200  feet  long, 
numing,  as  do  the  other  claims  along  here,  to  the  middle  of  the  Hill  Leai-sago. 
A  tunnel  was  run  800  feet  into  this  claim,  and  w-as  abandoned  because  the  gravel 
was  too  hard  to  wash  in  a  sluice.  The  company  are  now  about  to  pipe  away 
the  face  of  the  hill  preparatory  to  oi)ening  and  retimbering  the  old  tunnol.  It 
is  the  expectation  of  the  company  to  erect  a  mill  to  crush  the  cement. 

In  the  Buckeye  claim  the  face  of  the  hill  is  being  piped  away  to  make  room 
for  a  cement  mill. 

On  the  Cox  claim,  Cox's  pan  is  being  tri(id  for  the  reduction  of  cement.  It 
is  a  cast-iron  pan,  six  U-oX  in  diameter,  and  18  inches  deep,  with  four  iron  arms 
projecting  on  a  level  with  the  top  of  the  ])an  from  a  central  vertical  axis, 
and  from  eax.-li  arm  project  three  strong  wrought-iron  lingers,  reaching  down  to 
within  an  inch  of  the  bottomof  the  pan.  In  the  bottom  are  a  number  of  holes, 
an  eighth  of  an  inch  wide,  and  half  an  inch  long,  through  which  holes  the  pulver- 
ized matter  escapes.  The  bottom  is  of  white  chillediron.  A  charge  of  1,200 
pounds  of  cement  is  thrown  in,  a  stream  of  five  inches  of  water  is  turned  on,  and 
the  arms  are  started,  making  20  or  30  revolutions  per  minute.  In  s<n-<m 
minutes  and  a  half  all  the  pebbles  and  boulders  are  washed  clean,  and  Uioy 
are  discharged  through  a  gate  into  a  sluice  pnijiared  for  the  special  ])urpo8c  of 
CAnying  them  oil'.  There  is  another  sluice  for  washing  the  lino  matter.  Charg- 
ing and  di.schai-ging  occupy  two  minutes  and  a  half,  but  the  discharging  gato  ia 
to  be  enlarged,  so  that  the  discharge  will  not  occupy  more  than  a  quarter  oC 


84  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND   TERRITORIES 

it  minute,  instead  of  two  minutes,  as  at  present.  By  tliis  pan  40  tons  can  be 
worked  in  12  hours,  more  than  would  be  done  by  a  15-stamp  mill,  and  the 
\vork  is  done  in  better  style,  because  the  pebbles  and  boulders  which  fonn 
from  50  to  75  per  cent,  of  the  cement  are  excluded  from  the  sluice  in  which 
the  gold  is  caught.  The  greater  the  quantity  of  base  matter  canied  through 
the  sluice,  the  greater  the  danger  of  the  loss  of  gold.  The  power  is  sup- 
plied by  a  hurdy-gurdy  wheel,  which  is  eight  feet  in  diameter,  four  inches  in 
thickness,  with  buckets  four  inches  deep,  and  nine  inches  apait.  The  power 
is  nominally  by  19  inches  of  water,  but  much  is  lost  through  leakage,  and  the 
proprietor  of  the  pan  asserts  that  he  does  not  use  more  than  12  inches  under 
a  head  of  260  feet.  The  wheel  is  made  by  bolting  together  two  layers  of  two- 
inch  plank,  laid  crosswise.  The  cost  of  the  wheel  was  SlOO,  and  of  the 
machinery,  including  i)an,  gearing,  and  all,  less  than  $1,500.  The  cement  in 
this  claim  appears  to  be  nearly  as  hard  as  any  found  elsewhere. 

In  the  Italian  claim  a  tunnel  is  being  run  to  be  800  feet  long. 

The  Van  Duson  claim  has  a  tunnel  800  feet  long,  and  is  standing  idle  because 
of  the  hardness  of  the  cement. 

The  Hardy  Brothers  have  a  hydraulic  claim,  which  has  been  worked  three 
years. 

McConnell  &  Co.  have  the  next  claim,  and  work  it  by  the  hydraulic  process. 

Stewart  and  Hall  have  cnished  their  cement  in  an  eight-stamp  mill,  which  is 
now  standing  idle. 

The  Scott  Brothers'  claim  is  1,000  feet  long,  was  opened  by  a  tunnel  in  1854, 
and  was  abandoned  because  of  the  hardness  of  the  cenrcnt.  Work  has  now  been 
resumed  in  the  expectation  of  erecting  a  mill. 

Claims  on  Reservoir  Hill. — North  of  Placei-ville,  on  the  north  side  of 
Reservoir  Hill,  commencing  at  the  west,  are  the  following  claitus,  viz  : 

Hancock  and  Salter's  hydraulic  claim,  drained  by  a  tunnel,  and  open  cut  1,500 
feet  long,  has  been  worked  by  two  men  five  years,  employs  100  inchqs  of  water, 
and  pays  well. 

■  Tlie  Friar  claim  has  yielded  $50,000,  but  after  leaving  the  surface  the  minere 
found  the  cement  so  hard  they  could  not  wash  it,  and  nothing  was  done  on  it 
for  years.  A  San  Francisco  company  is  now  at  work,  opening  it  by  a  tunnel,  to 
be  1,000  feet  long,  and  to  be  finished  in  two  years. 

The  Slide  claim  is  being  opened  by  a  tunnel,  to  be  several  hundred  feet  long. 
This  claim  never  yielded  much. 

The  I'ioneer  claim  is  worked  by  diifting,  and  has  paid  very  high.  It  has  been 
worked  for  12  years. 

Tiie  George  Barlow  claim  is  also  worked  by  drifting,  and  has  paid  well  at 
times. 

"  ■  The  Live-oak  claim  is  worked  throngh  a  tunnel,  and  has  yielded  $50,000  or 
$(>0,000.     Under  this  claim  runs  the  blue  channel. 

Th{!  Roanoke  claim  has  the  repute  of  having  been  one  of  the  richest  claims  on 
the  channel,  but  nothing  could  be  ascertained  of  its  yield. 
•    On  the  south  side  of  Ueservoir  Hill  are  the  following  claims,  viz : 
'''  The  Trask  claim  is  worked  by  the  hydraulic  process  by  a  company  of  China- 
men with  very  little  profit. 

The  Okllield  is  a  hydraulic  claim. 

The  Wolverine  was  worked  with  much  profit  in  early  days,  and  then  lay  idle 
for  a  long  time.     Work  has  lately  been  resumed  on  it.     It  seems  that  there  was 
;i  slide  wliich  threw  the  pay  stratum  out  of  its  regular  position  in  this  claim. 
>    The  Ohio  lias  a  tunnel  800  feet  kmg,  employs  five  men,  is  paying  well,  and 
lias  be(M)  woiked  for  12  years. 

Crusen  &  Co.  have  a  claim  on  Wisconsin  fiat,  and  are  trying  to  reach  the  Blue 
channel  through  a  tunnel  1,200  feet  long,  from  the  end  of  which  they  are  sinking 
a- shaft  to  bo  80  feet  deep,  •  - 


WEST    OF    TIFE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  85 

The  Granite  (^omjiiiny  are  runimijj^  a  tiiimel  to  strike  the  Bhie  chiinnel,  an-i 
arc  in  several  hmuh'ed  i'c(.'t. 

The  Deej)  Ohamiel  Ci)nipany  has  been  at  work  seven  or  eight  yoars.  Tlie 
dirt  is  hoisted  throngh  an  incline  by  horse  power,  and  pays  $-1  to  the  car  load. 
Most  of  their  cmnent  is  erusluMl  in  the  10-stanip  cnstoni  mill  of  P.  M.  Taft. 

The  Bine  Lead  Company  employ  10  or  15  men  in  their  claim,  and  crush 
their  cement,  which  yields  about  $8  per  ton,  in  a  lO-stamj)  mill,  driven  by  30 
inches  of  water  over  a  wheel  45  feet  in  diameter. 

Thc^  Buchanan,  Fremont,  Henry  Clay,  and  Hook  and  Ijadder  Companies, 
facinji;  Smith's  Flat  on  the  east,  have  had  some  very  n<;li  claims. 

Kcdd  &  Co.  have  a  fiv^'-stamp  custom  mill,  and  crush  cement  for  the  Ilook  and 
Ladder  Company. 

Spanish  IIill  Claims. — On  Spanish  Hill,  east  of  Placerville,  are  the  follow- 
ing' claims,  viz  : 

Hoxie's  claim,  which  is  now  exhausted.  It  paid  from  $10  to  $16  per  day  to 
the  hand  for  several  years. 

The  Stogy  Tunnel  claim  was  equally  rich,  and  is  worked  out. 

The  Bay  State  was  also  rich,  and  is  not  exhausted,  but  has  been  consolidated 
with  the  next  claim,  and  is  worked  by  hydranlic. 

The  Hook  and  Ladder  claim  has  a  crevice  175  feet,  and  a  tnnnel  600  feet  long, 
running  to  the  bottom  of  the  crevice.  The  hill  is  to  be  washed  down  through 
the  tunnel. 

The  Golden  Gate  and  Duroc  claims  come  next,  and  have  been  consolidated. 
Two  auriferous  quartz  veins  are  fonnd  in  the  slate  bed  rock  in  these  claims,  and 
it  is  supposed  that  some  of  the  gold  came  from  the  decomposition  of  the  slate.   ; 

The  Hoxie,  Stogy,  Bay  State,  Hook  and  Ladder,  Goklen  Gate,  and  Duroc 
claims  have  yielded  together  not  less  thun  .$200,000. 

IxDiAX  Diggings. — Indian  Diggings,  25  miles  southeastward  from  Placer- 
ville, is  on  the  limestone  belt,  and  is  the  furthest  north  of  all  the  large  mining 
camps  on  that  belt.  No  solid  bed  rock  is  found  here.  It  is  supposed  that 
pay  gravel  is  found  200  feet  from  the  surface,  and  to  drain  the  diggings  to  that 
depth  would  require  a  tunnel  a  mile  long.  At  Slug  gulch  a  shaft  was  sunk 
down  through  what  appeared  to  be  solid  limestone  bed  rock  into  a  stratum  of 
limestone  boulders.  A  ditch  of  water  was  accidentally  turned  into  this  shaft, 
and  the  water  ran  there  for  several  days  without  any  accumulation  of  water  in 
the  shaft.  No  outlet  was  ever  discovered.  Brownsville,  at  the  side  of  the  Indian 
Diggings,  may  be  considered  part  of  the  same  place,  and  the  two  together  have 
about  20  acres  of  d(?ep  diggings,  which  will  not  be  exhausted  for  many  years. 
Lidian  Diggings  and  Brownsville,  unlike  Columbia  and  Volcano,  do  not  wash 
with  a  pipe  in  a  dump  box. 

The  Douglas  hydraulic  claim,  the  most  notable  claim  at  Brownsville,  is  180 
feet  square,  and  was  worked  for  10  years  previous  to  1866.  Li  1856  and  1857 
it  yielded  855,000,  and  since  the  latter  year  has  paid  little  over  expenses.  There 
has  been  no  work  of  late  for  lack  of  drainage.  An  open  cut  has  been  started 
to  drain  the  claim,  so  that  it  can  be  washed  20  feet  deeper;  700  feet  of  the  cut 
have  been  completed ;  there  is  a  quarter  of  a  mile  still  to  be  done,  and  several 
years  may  elapse  l>efore  it  is  finished. 

Placerville  jVIining  Uegulations. — Each  district  in  this  county  has  its 
own  mining  regulations. 

The  mining  regulations  of  the  Placerville  district,  adopted  March  21,  1863, 
provide  that- — 

Each  claimant  maj'  hoUl  200  feet  in  lenp^tli  upon  a  ledge  or  lode  with  all  its  dips,  spurs 
and  anfjlos,  and  '2M  feet  upon  each  side  thereof. 

Each  cliiini  must  be  filed  for  record  within  five  days  of  postinj^  notice  thereof,  and  the 
notice  must  distinctly  specify  the  general  direction  of  the  claim,  ledge,  or  lode,  and  the  record 
made  accordingly. 


86  EESOUKCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

Each  company  sliall  be  required  to  cxpen^l  at  least  seven  days'  work  upon  the 
ledge  or  lode  held  by  them  for  and  in  every  month  of  the  time  said  claim  is  held ; 
othenvisc  the  same  may  be  considered  as  abandoned. 

The  number  of  quartz  claims  on  record  is  186. 

Thrt  following-  are  copies  of  notices  entered  in  the  record  book  : 

Notice  is  hereby  fjiven  that  we  the  undersigned  claim  1,000  feet  on  this  ledge,  commencing 
at  this  notice  and  running  in  a  northerly  direction  to  a  stake  and  pile  of  stones,  qtnd  that  we 
intend  to  hold  and  work  the  same  according  to  the  laws  of  the  Placerville  mining  district. 
Said  claim  is  situated  in  H.  S.  Ilulburd's  ranch,  in  Placerville.     May  23,  1867. 

[Signatures.] 
Notice  is  hereby  given  that  we  the  uudersigned  claim  1,500  feet  each  way  from  this  notice, 
on  any  and  all  quartz  lodes  discovered  in  sinking  this  shaft.     July  i8,  lb66. 

[Signatures.  J 

Mud  Springs  Mining  Regulations. — The  following  are  the  principal 
provisions  of  the  mining  regulations  of  the  El  Dorado  or  Stud  Springs  district, 
adopted  April  7,  1863  : 

No  person  shall  be  allowed  to  hold  more  than  300  feet  by  location  on  the  same  ledge,  but 
can  hold  (JOO  feet  in  width  for  the  purpose  of  prospecting  and  detiuing  his  lead  or  ledge.  The 
discoverer  of  a  ledge  is  entitled  to  an  extra  claim. 

A  notice  upon  a  claim  to  be  valid  must  be  written  with  ink,  and  placed  upon 
a  board,  stake,  or  tree  in  as  conspicuous  a  place  as  possible,  and  upon,  or  as  near 
the  ledge  as  can  be.  Such  notice  must  state  the  number  of  feet  claimed,  describing 
as  accurately  as  possible  the  boundaries  thereof,  containing  all  the  names  of  the 
claimants  with  the  date  tndy  affixed  ;  a  true  copy  of  which  must  be  recorded  by 
the  district  recorder  within  20  days  from  the  date  of  such  notice,  or  such  claim 
ehall  be  considered  forfeited. 

Notice  u])on  a  claim  holds  the  same  for  20  days  only.  Recording  the  notice 
of  a  claim  holds  the  same  for  90  days  only,  before  the  expiration  of  which  time 
labor  to  the  amount  of  $2  50  for  each  300  feet  in  the  claim  must  be  expended 
upon  the  claim  by  the  company,  which  will  hold  the  same  for  15  months  from 
the  date  of  record.  Non-compliance  with  the  provisions  of  this  article  by  any 
corapau}^  will  be  construed  as  an  abandonment  by  them  of  their  claim. 

In  case  of  dispute  between  parties  claiming  the  same  ledge  or  lead,  each  of 
the  contending  parties  may  cheose  an  arbitrator,  and  the  two  may  choose  a  third 
person,  who  shall  be  disinterested.  The  three  shall  constitute  a  board  of  arbi- 
trators, whose  decision  shall  be  linal,  unless  notice  of  an  appeal  be  given  within 
ten  days  of  the  rendition  of  the  decision. 

There  is  no  provision  requiring  a  description  of  boundaries. 

The  number  of  claims  on  record  is  40.  The  following  is  a  copy  of  one  of 
the  .notices  recorded : 

Dry  Creek,  April  1,  1853. 

Know  all  men  by  these  presents  that  we  the  undersigned  claim  45  claims  on  this  lode, 
300  feet  each,  making  in  all  13,500  feet,  and  intend  prospecting  the  said  claims  for  coal,  cop- 
per, silver,  gold,  or  jiny  other  minerals  it  may  contain,  running  in  a  uonherly  direction 
13,000  feet  and  southerly  5ti0  feet,  with  all  its  dips,  angles,  and  spurs. 

[Forty-fivo  signatures.] 

GEOiKiKTOWN  IMixiNG  REGULATIONS. — Tho  following  are  a  portion  of  the 
quartz  regulations  of  the  Georgetown  mining  district,  adopted  December  10, 
1866: 

Tho  size  of  claims  to  each  person  locating  shall  be  200  feet  of  or  on  any  quartz  lode  or 
ledge,  including  all  dips,  spurs,  angles,  and  all  surface  ground  and  minerals  which  may  be 
contained  wiltiin  tlu;  space  of  150  feet  on  each  side  of  said  ledge  or  vein  located  ;  but  no 
company's  claim  shall  exceed  3,0{JO  feet  in  length  on  any  one  vein  or  ledge. 

The  discoverer  of  a  vein  or  lode  of  minerals  shall  be  entitled  to  one  claim  for  his  discovery. 

All  notices  of  claims  located,  whether  individual  or  company,  shall  describe  the  locality 
of  said  mine,  the  number  of  feet  claimed,  the  point  where  measurement  commences,  and 
name  tho  lode  or  company  locating. 

Said  notice  shall  bo  posted  on  the  lode,  and  shall  hold  the  claim  for  10  days  from  the  date 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  SI' 

thereof  without  record,  but  no  clfum  shall  be  held  valid  without  record  after  the  expiration 
of  said  time  uuiess  labor  is  beinjj  doue  on  said  claim. 

All  notices  of  quartz  mining  claims  arc  required  to  be  recorded  unless  labor  is  being  done 
on  the  claim,  by  a  recorder  elected  by  the  minors  of  Georgetown  quartz  mining  district. 

Said  district  recorder  shall  keep  a  book,  record  all  claims,  copy  the  notice,  and  give  the 
names  of  the  members  of  each  company. 

It  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  recorder  to  go  upon  the  ground  and  define  the  claim,  measuring 
and  staking  the  same,  and  he  shall  receive  for  such  service  the  sum  of  50  cents  for  each  name, 
and  if  not  required  to  perform  such  service,  to  receive  25  cents  only. 

Any  person  or  corporated  company  locating  a  mining  claim  within  this  district  shall  b« 
required  to  have  expended  in  actual  labor  upon  each  and  every  c'aim  not  exceeding  1,200 
feet,  and  a  proportionate  amount  fur  larger  or  smaller  claims,  the  sum  of  s.")!!,  within  (JU  days 
from  the  date  of  the  record,  and  $150  withni  six  months  from  the  date  of  record,  and  a  liKO 
amount  for  everj-  additional  six  months  until  the  sum  of  $5UU  shall  have  been  expended; 

Whenever  the  sum  of  §.jti(J  shall  have  been  expended  in  prospecting  or  development  of  the 
mine,  whether  by  sinking  shafts,  running  tunnels,  cuts,  or  drifts,  whether  on  the  ledge  or  in 
the  direction  thereof,  designed  practically  to  develop  the  claim,  then  and  thereafter  for  the 
term  of  two  years  said  claim  shall  be  held  by  the  parties  peforniing  the  labor  or  expending  the 
said  amount ;  but  no  labor  being  performed  for  the  period  of  two  years,  the  said  claim  shall 
be  considered  abandoned  and  subject  to  relocation. 

Eeed. — The  Reed  mine,  2,000  feet  long,  is  three  miles  south  of  Plac<3rville,  has 
a  greenstone  hanging  wall,  a  slate  foot  wall,  and  a  vein  18  feet  wide.  The 
quartz,  as  found  by  a  shaft  ninning  down  80  feet  prospects  well,  and  a  10-stamp 
mill  is  going  up. 

Pacific. — The  Pacific  mine,  1,800  feet  long,  is  on  the  same  lode,  and  is 
within  the  limits  of  Placer\'il]e.  The  mine  was  opened  in  1852,  and  was  worketl 
till  1802,  when  it  caved  in,  and  then  it  lay  idle  four  years.  Lately  a  Boston 
company  has  purchased  it  and  opened  the  main  shaft  to  a  depth  of  320  feet,  and 
found  some  good  quartz,  but  not  enougli  to  commence  work  upon.  The  quaitz 
is  a  ribbon  rock,  tinged  in  places  with  a  green  color.  The  total  yield  of  the 
mine  is  reported  to  have  been  $500,000,  and  the  annual  average  protit  for  seven 
or  eight  yeai's  $30,000.  Tlie  new  shaft  was  started  120  feet  northeastward  of 
the  working  vein,  and  in  going  down  300  feet  four  veins  were  intersected,  each 
about  six  feet  thick,  all  containing  similar  quartz  and  all  \\'idening  out  as  they 
go  down.  The  two  middle  veins  thus  far  reached  are  mixed  with  a  large  pro- 
portion of  talcose  slate,  and  appear  to  be  ban-en.  The  westernmost  of  the  four 
veins  has  produced  all  the  gold  of  the  Pacific  mine  in  a  depth  of  200  feet,  in  a 
pay  chimney  200  feet  long.  The  chimney  was  nearly  vertical,  but  dipped  slightly 
to  the  north.     A  20-stamp  mill,  erected  in  1853,  is  standing  idle. 

Hakmox. — The  Hai-mon  mine,  1,400  feet  long,  just  north  of  Placennlle,  is 
on  a  vein  which  is  100  yards  west  of  the  Pacific  lode,  and  is  30  feet  wide  in 
places,  though  the  average  is  not  over  four  or  live.  The  vein  stone  is  a  white 
quartz  with  seams  of  black  slate,  and  a  considerable  proportion  of  sulphurets  of 
iron  and  lead.  It  was  worked  with  aiTastras  and  paid  high ;  and  tlien  a  15- 
Ktamp  mill  was  erected,  but  that  has  not  been  profitable  and  is  now  idle.  The 
reputed  cause  of  the  trouble  is  the  difficulty  of  reducing  the  undecomposed  sul- 
phurets found  below  the  water-line. 

Shepakd. — The  Shepard  mine  is  1,200  feet  long,  on  a  vein  two  feet  wide, 
near  Placerville.  The  claim  was  opened  at  the  end  of  186G,  and  yielded  some 
rich  pockets  of  beautiful  foliated  gold.  The  specimens  extracted  were  worth 
$5,000.  The  mill  rock  from  its  appearance  must  have  contained  at  least  $30 
per  ton.  The  vein  matter  was  much  of  it  an  ochrous  eartli,  intersected  with 
seams  of  quartz.  The  rock  was  worked  through  a  crusher  and  two  arrastras 
driven  by  steam.  ^Much  of  the  vein  has  been  opened  by  open  cut  to  a  depth  of 
fifteen  feet. 

Cleopatra. — The  Cleopatra,  1,200  feet  long,  on  the  same  vein,  is  to  bo 
opened  to  a  depth  of  100  feet,  and  then  if  the  rock  prospects  well  a  mill  is  to  bo 
erected  with  a  capacity  to  crush  20  tons  per  day  ;  the  contractor  to  receive  half 
half  the  mine  for  opening  it  and  erecting  the  mill. 


88  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

VfHiTE  AifD  BuRDiCK. — -White  and  Burdick  own  two  claims,  one  of  2,000; 
the  other  of  1,800  feet,  on  the  same  vein.  The  claim  of  1,800  feet  has  been 
opened  to  a  depth  of  75  feet,  but  the  mine  caved  in  several  years  since  and  is  not 
well  reopened  j^et.  Miners  have  been  working  at  it  since  last  year.  There  is 
a  lO-stamp  mill,  which  was  built  in  1861. 

Persevere. — The  Persevere  mine,  4,200  feet,  at  Poverty  Point,  near  Placer- 
ville,  is  on  a  vein  five  feet  wide.  A  depth  of  155  feet  has  l)een  reached  and  a 
drift  has  been  run  45  feet  on  the  vein.     No  mill  has  l)een  erected  yet. 

White. — The  White  mine,  2,000  feet  long,  near  Placen'ille,  has  a  15-Btamp 
mill,  which  is  idle.  A  new  shaft  is  now  being  sunk.  The  rock  is  rich  in  sul- 
phnrets. 

Manning. — The  Manning  mine,  five  miles  eastward  from  Placei'\'ille,  has  a 
vein  two  feet  wide,  a  shaft  180  feet  deep,  and  a  six-stamp  mill.  No  work  is 
being  done. 

Elle  Ellen. — The  Elle  Ellen,  2,000  feet  long,  is  half  a  mile  from  the  Man- 
ning, on  a  vein  which  runs  northwest  and  southeast,  is  nine  feet  wide,  and  dips 
to  the  east  at  an  angle  of  80°.  The  hanging  wall  is  hard  blue  slate,  and  the 
foot  wall  brown  slate.  There  is  a  tunnel  100  feet  long  run  on  the  vein.  There 
is  no  mill. 

Eppley. — The  Eppley  mine,  1,200  feet  long,  two  miles  and  a  half  south  of 
Placerville,  has  been  opened  to  a  depth  of  85  feet,  and  30  tons  of  rock  sent  to 
mill  have  yielded  $1,500,  or  $50  per  ton.  The  mine  is  to  be  opened  further,  and 
so  soon  as  enough  good  quartz  to  pay  for  a  mill  is  in  sight,  one  will  be  built. 

Davidson. — The  Davidson  mine,  a  mile  and  a  quarter  northwest  of  Placer- 
ville, has  a  tunnel  350  feet  long  and  a  shaft  ICO  feet  deep.  The  quartz  pros- 
pects well,  but  none  has  been  worked  as  yet.  The  New  York  and  El  Dorado 
mill,  of  20  stamps,  has  been  purchased  to  be  erected  on  this  mine. 

Montezuma. — The  Montezuma  Quartz  Mining  Company,  an  English  asso- 
ciation, own  claims  on  four  veins  seven  miles  south  of  El  I)orado,  and  are  working 
two  of  the  claims.  That  on  the  Montezuma  vein  is  1,900  feet  long;  has  been 
worked  since  1851,  and  has  yielded  $150,000.  The  lode  runs  north  and  south, 
is  three  feet  wide,  has  slate  walls  and  ribbon  quartz,  which  averages  $10  per  ton. 
There  is  a  black  claj^  slate  gouge  on  the  hanging  wall.  A  depth  of  180  feet 
has  been  reached  and  drifts  have  been  run  180  feet  on  the  vein.  The  McDowell 
vein  is  seven  feet  wide,  three-quarters  of  a  mile  east  of  the  Montezuma  and 
parallel  with  it.  A  depth  of  25  feet  has  been  reached.  There  is  a  20-stamp 
mill,  made  to  run  either  by  steam  or  water.  The  Montezuma  Company  have 
invested  $100,000  in  the  property,  and  it  is  said  they  are  the  only  English  com- 
pany mining  for  gold  now  in  California. 

New  York  and  El  Dorado  mill. — The  New  York  and  El  Dorado  mill  was 
O'octed  at  a  cost  of  $20,000,  five  miles  south  of  El  Dorado,  by  a  New  York  com- 
jmny  under  representations  that  they  possessed  a  splendid  mine ;  but  they  found 
nothing,  and  the  mill  has  been  sold  for  $2,500  to  be  moved  to  Davidson's  mine, 
a  mile  and  a  quarter  northwest  of  Placerville. 

Hermitage. — The  Ilermitage  mine,  six  miles  south  of  El  Dorado,  at  Sugar 
Loaf,  is  on  a  pctckfft  vein  and  has  paid  irregularly,  yielding  $100,000  in  all. 
A  mill  was  erected  in  1852  and  taken  down,  and  a  second  mill  of  20  stamps 
was  erected  in  18G6,  at  a  cost  of  $17,500,  by  a  lioston  comj)any,  which  paid 
$38;000  for  the  mine.  The  vein  is  10  feet  wide,  and  a  depth  of  175  feet  has 
been  reached.  A  tunnel  is  being  nm  to  intersect  the  shaft  at  a  distance  of  170 
feet.  It  is  said  that  there  is  a  large  quantity  of  pay  rock  in  sight  suitable  for 
milling,  but  most  of  the  gold  heretofore  obtained  has  been  taken  out  in  a  hand 
mortar.  'J^he  min(^  was  discovered  by  placer  miners,  who  followed  up  a  rich 
streak  of  gold  in  gravel  till  it  stopped  at  this  quartz  vein. 

Union. — The  Union  lode  nnis  north  10°  east,  dips  cast  at  an  angle  of  80°, 
and  is  from  3  to  12  feet  thick  in  slate  walls,  which,  according  to  Professor  Sil- 


W£ST  OF  THE  KOCKY  MOUNTAINS.  8fl^ 

Ijiiiaii,  who  luatlo  a  report  on  the  iiiiuo.  its  striatecl  in  lines  (Iip{)ini;-  to  tlie  .s«jutli- 
eust.  The  quartz  is  soft,  lissilo,  and  rerrMyinous.  'I'lie  stope  north  of  the  shaft 
yiehleil  Jo.OUO  tons,  from  which,  aecordiuiv  to  the  l»ooks  kept  at  the  mill,  84."y0,000 
were  obtained.  A  larije  part  of  the  ehiini  is  unex[dored,  and  its  value  is  merely 
eonjectnral  beyoml  the  pay  chimney  at  the  shaft.  'J'he  Cosumnes  lode  is  120 
feet  west  of  the  Union,  and  has  the  same  dip  and  general  cunrse,  although  there 
are  some  bends  in  it.  It  is  three  or  four  feet  thick,  and  tlu;  quartz  b<?arsa  strong 
resemblance  t()  that  of  the  l^rinceton  mine.  The  walls  are  of  coal  black  shale, 
and  there  is  a  black  putty  gouge  on  the  eastern  Avail.  This  vein  has  a  shaft 
120  fe(»t  (h^ep.  8ome  of  the  croppings  were  very  rich  and  yielded  most  of 
SL'jO.OOO  taken  out  by  the  mill  from  rock  that  did  not  come  from  the  Union  mine.- 

Wilder. — The  AVilder  quartz  mine,  a  mile  and  a  lialf  west  of  El  Dorado,  is  on 
ft  vein  three  feet  wide,  containing  quartz  that  yields  $9  per  ton.  An  eight-stamp 
water-mill  has  been  running  two  years. 

Pocahontas. — The  Pocahontas  mine,  two  miles  south  of  El  Dorado,  has  a  vein 
four  feet  wide  and  a  pay  chimney  a  100  feet  long,  averaging  $15  per  ton.  There 
is  a  10-stamp  mill  which  has  been  at  work  one  year,  and  has  })aid  for  itself 
and  for  all  the  work  done  in  oj)ening  the  mine. 

Uxiox  Church. — The  Union  Church  Gold  Mining  Company  have  claims  on 
three  veins,  three  miles  southeast  of  El  Dorado.  The  Union  claim  has  been 
worked  since  1852,  has  been  stoped  to  a  depth  of  IGO  feet,  and  has  yielded  ca 
large  amount  of  gold.  There  is  water  in  this  claim  now,  and  it  is  being  taken 
out  preparatory  to  sinking.  The  Cosumnes  claim  is  now  being  worked,  and  the 
rock  yields  $10  or  $12  per  ton. 

(xnAT. — The  Gray  mine,  three  miles  cast  of  Shingle  Springs,  is  a  rich  deposit 
of  decomposed  quartz  in  a  vein  five  feet  w'ide.  On  one  occasion  specimens  worth, 
SI 0,000  were  taken  out  in  one  day.  A  depth  of  60  feet  has  been  reached. 
There  is  a  10-stamp  mill,  built  in  1865. 

Bryant. — The  Bryant  mine,  two  miles  south  of  El  Dorado,  yielded  $20,000 
in  one  pocket,  which  was  emptied  in  three  daA's  in  1857.  Considerable  quantities 
of  quartz,  sent  to  a  mill  four  miles  oil",  paid  well.  The  mill  ran  several  years,- 
then  was  abandoned,  and  now  a  20-starap  steam  mill  is  to  be  built.  A  depth 
of  150  feet  has  been  reached,  and  drifts  have  been  run  600  feet  on  the  vein. 

Beard. — The  Beard  mine,  two  miles  south  of  El  Dorado,  has  yielded  $250,000, 
proving  very  pi'olitablc  at  times.     The  gold  was  deposited  chiefly  in  numerous  - 
little  chimneys  or  streaks,  which  the  miners  followed.     There  was  a  10-starap 
mill  in  1860,  but  it  was  moved  away  to  the  State  of  Nevada. 

The  Jamison  mine,  at  Aurum  City,  has  been  worked  about  a  year  with  an 
arrastra. 

Independence. — The  Independence  mine,  1,200  feet  long,  at  Brownsville, 
is  on  a  vein  which  runs  east  and  west,  is  three  and  a  half  feet  thick,  and  has 
granite  for  a  hanging  wall  and  "  blue  trap,"  as  the  miners  call  it,  for  a  foot  wall. 
A  tunnel  has  been  run  400  feet  on  the  vein,  in  pay  all  the  way ;  250  tons  have 
been  worked,  and  the  yield  has  been  $30  per  ton,  in  the  Tullock  eight-stamp 
mill,  rented  for  the  purpose.  The  Independence  mill  is  now  being  built  and 
is  to  have  10  stamps.     The  quartz  contains  a  large  proportion  of  rich  sulphurets. 

Stillwagon. — The  Stillwagon  mine,  also  at  Brownsville,  is  on  a  vein  simi- 
lar to  that  of  the  Independence.     'I'here  is  a  five-stamp  mill,  which,  with  tho 
labor  of  six  men,  took  out  $4,600  in  May,  1867.     The  average  yield  is  $25'. 
per  ton. 

There  are  no  other  quartz  mines  regularly  at  work  at  Brownsville. 

Sliger. — The  Sligcr  mine,  400  feet  long,  is  four  miles  southwest  of  George- 
town, on  a  vein  four  feet  wide,  between  granite  on  the  west  and  slate  on  the. 
east.     Five  thousand  dollars  were  taken  out  of  a  pocket  near  the  surface.     The 
mine  is  now  being  opened. 

Greenwood. — The  Greenwood  mine,  livo  miles  southwest  of  Georgeto-wn^ 


90  EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

has  been  opened  by  a  cross-tunnel  400  feet  long.  A  15-stamp  mill  has  just  been 
erected,  but  work  is  not  yet  commenced  at  crushing. 

Taylor. — The  Taylor  mine,  3,000  feet  long,  is  two  and  a  half  miles  eouth  of 
Georgetown,  on  a  lode  that  runs  north -north  west  and  south-southeast,  and  is  two 
feet  wide  at  the  surface,  and  six  feet  at  a  depth  of  100  feet.  A  depth  of  107  feet 
has  been  reached  by  an  incline,  and  drifts  have  been  run  41  feet.  The  vein  is 
filled  with  seams  of  slate,  but  the  quartz  shows  free  gold  in  all  parts  of  the  mine. 
There  is  a  black  i)utty  gouge  two  feet  thick  in  places.  The  west  wall  is  bastard 
granite,  the  east  slate.     There  is  no  mill. 

RoSECRANS. — The  Rosecrans  mine,  900  feet  long,  adjoins  the  Taylor  on  the 
south.  The  shaft  is  down  40  feet;  and  60  tons  crushed  at  a  custom  mill  yielded 
$12  on  an  average.  The  vein  has  been  uncovered  for  280  feet  along  the  surface, 
and  it  shows  gold  all  the  way. 

Blue  Lead. — T'he  Blue  Lead,  three  miles  south  of  Georgetown,  has  been 
opened  by  a  San  Francisco  company  to  a  depth  of  250  feet  and  to  considerable 
length.  The  quartz  is  mixed  with  blue  slate  and  shows  some  fine  specimens, 
but  has  not  paid.  A  very  fine  20-stamp  mill  has  been  erected,  and  about 
$250,000  have  been  invested  permanently  in  the  mine.     Work  has  ceased. 

Collins. — In  the  Collins  mine,  one  mile  south  of  Georgetown,  the  vein  has 
been  reached  170  feet  below  the  surface  by  a  tunnel  250  feet  long.  The  vein 
is  eight  feet  wide,  and  the  rock  in  sight  will  yield  $15  per  ton. 

Alpine. — Tlie  Alpine,  on  the  same  vein,  is  four  feet  wide,  is  working  with  an 
aiTastra,  and  obtains  $12  per  ton.  The  quartz  is  extracted  through  a  tunnel  150 
feet  long.  The  Mount  Hope  Company,  of  San  Francisco,  own  a  claim  of  3,000 
feet  adjoining  the  Alpine.  The  vein  is  six  feet  wide,  but  is  split  up  considerably. 
The  shaft  is  61  feet  deep. 

The  Pliiladelphia  Slide  Company,  of  San  Francisco,  have  3,000  feet  on  a 
vein  half  a  mile  south  of  Georgetown,  and  have  levied  an  assessment  for  the  pur- 
pose of  erecting  hoisting  works. 

The  Clipper  mine,  two  and  a  half  miles  northeast  of  Georgetown,  is  5,000  feet 
long,  on  a  vein  two  and  a  half  feet  wide,  running  north  and  south  between  a 
granite  foot  wall  and  a  slate  lianging  Avail.  The  deepest  workings  are  80  feet 
from  the  surface.  About  700  tons  of  quartz  have  been  crushed,  and  the  yield 
was  $15  per  ton.     There  is  a  stan>p  mill  which  is  not  running. 

AVooDSiDE. — The  Woodside  mine  in  Georgetown  is  1,200  feci  long,  on  a 
vertical  vein,  which  is  two  feet  wide  and  runs  northeast  and  southwest  between 
slate  walls.  A  shaft  has  been  sunk  110  feet,  and  drifts  have  been  run  40  feet 
on  the  vein.  The  average  yield  has  been  $30  per  ton  for  mill  rock,  exclusive 
of  specimens  worth  $12,000.  On  one  occasion  a  mass  of  rock  was  found  so 
tied  together  with  seams  of  gold  running  through  it  that  a  cold  chisel  had  to  be 
used  to  cut  it.  The  pay  chinmey  dips  to  the  northeast.  There  is  a  five-stamp 
mill  driven  by  water  power,  but  it  has  had  little  to  do  lately,  the  mine  having 
been  filled  with  water  last  winter.  The  lode  is  rich  in  sulphurets,  and  has  pecu- 
liar sheets  of  sulphurets  about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  with  transverse  crys- 
tals running  from  side  to  side.  Mr.  Woodside  is  the  inventor  of  a  concentrator 
which  he  uses  in  his  mill.  It  consists  of  a  sheet  of  I.Alia-nibber  cloth,  22 
inches  wide  and  about  eight  feet  long,  sewed  together  at  the  ends  and  sti'etched 
over  two  wooden  rollers  four  inches  in  diameter  and  three  feet  apart.  The 
rollers  arc  placed  on  a  frame  horizontally,  one  three  inches  higher  than  the 
other.  The  rollers  turn  so  that  the  cloth  makes  three  complete  revolutions  in  a 
minute.  A  water  j)ipe  perforated  with  little  holes  j)asses  above  the  cloth  near 
the  upper  roller  and  discharges  a  number  of  little  streams,  which  wash  away  the 
light  sands  and  leave  the  heavy  sulphurets  to  be  carried  up  over  the  upper  roller, 
and  after  passing  that  they  (bop  down  into  a  box  beneath.  The  concentrator 
lias  been  used  in  this  mill  fVir  a  year  to  the  satisiaction  of  the  inventor,  but  nobody 
e\^(i  has  adopted  it.     The  mine  was  discovered  by  the  gentleman  whose  name  it 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  9f 

boars.  lie  picked  tip  a  picco  of  auriferous  cpiartz  in  a  little  ravine,  and  then 
sought  for  eroppin<Ts,  and  when  ]w  prized  up  a  piece  of  rusty  rock  that  peeped 
out  of  the  <>-round,  lie  found  the  under  side  of  it  speckled  with  £>-old.  llo  imme- 
diately coniiuenced  work,  and  the  mine  paid  its  way  from  the  surface  to  its 
present  depth. 

.Iame.s's  Mill. — James's  custom  mill,  with  five  stamps,  eight  miles  south  of 
Georgetown,  is  standing  idle. 

Eureka. — The  Kureka  mine,  on  the  same  vein,  north  of  the  Woodside,  is 
900  feet  long,  and  has  ])een  o))ened  to  a  depth  of  l.'JO  feet.  There  is  a  steam 
hoisting  estal)lishment,  but  no  mill,  on  the  mine. 

(vEOUGiA  Slidk. — Georgia  Slide,  one  mile  north  of  Georgetown,  is  a  mining 
camp  on  a  hillside,  where,  undtu"  rich  placers,  are  found  a  multitude  of  small 
seams  of  decomposed  auriferous  quartz.  Three  companies  arc  sluicing;  one  is 
working  with  a  seven-stamp  mill  and  another  is  })utting  up  an  arrastrft,.  The 
hillside  has  yielded  an  immense  quantity  of  gold. 

ilosQUTTO. — The  Mosquito  mine,  eight  miles  east  of  Kelsey's,  is  in  granite. 
A  mill  built  in  1S6G  had  its  roof  broken  in  by  the  weight  of  snow  last  winter. 

Plymouth. — The  Plymouth  mine,  a  mile  and  a  lialf  west  of  Kelsey's,  is  on 
a  vein  very  irregular  in  width,  V)ut  averaging  seven  feet.  I^ho  rock  averages 
$18  per  ton;  but  15  tons,  selected  carefully  from  700  ton.s,  yielded  SS,000.  'hie 
quartz  contains  eight  per  cent,  of  sulphurets. 

Gopher. — The  Gopher  mine,  a  mile  west  of  Kelsey's,  has  three  veins,  with 
an  aggregate  thickness  of  eighteen  feet.  Most  of  the  pay  is  in  the  western  vein. 
The  rock  is  a  ribbon  quartz,  rich  in  sulphurets,  and  there  are  slate  walls  on  both 
sides.  A  depth  of  100  feet  was  reached,  but  the  old  works  have  caved  in,  and 
tlie  mine  has  not  been  reopened.  In  1858  the  mine  yielded  81-5,600.  There 
was  a  mill,  which  has  been  moved  to  Washoe. 

Last  Chance. — The  Last  Chance  mine,  800  feet  long,  is  opposite  Coloma, 
on  the  north  side  of  the  south  fork  of  the  American  river.  The  vein  runs  north 
and  south,  dips  to  the  west  at  an  angle  of  50°,  and  varies  in  width  from  2  to 
12  feet.  The  eastern  wall  is  greenstone,  and»the  western  granite;  but  on  the 
western  side,  for  a  depth  of  400  feet  on  the  hillside,  there  was  no  wall — only 
a  bed  of  gravel,  which  has  been  sluiced  away,  leaving  the  quartz  exposed,  so 
that  an  immense  quantity  of  rock  can  be  obtained  without  using  either  shaft  or 
tunnel.  Two  men  can  take  out  20  tons  in  a  day  ready  for  the  mill.  Both 
free  gold  and  sulphurets  are  abundant,  but  some  selection  is  necessary.  The 
total  yield,  as  reported  by  one  of  the  owners,  has  be(?n  $60,000,  though  rumor 
among  outsiders  says  it  has  been  S'200,000.  One  lot  of  500  t(ms  of  quartz  paid 
only  82  per  ton ;  then  30  tons  yielded  $250  per  ton ;  and  five  tons  of  the  best 
yielded  $40;000.  There  is  a  lO-stamp  mill,  with  a  .Joinville  turbine,  driven  by 
60  inches  of  water  under  70  feet  of  head.  Amalgamation  is  effect ed  in  the  mor- 
tar and  on  copper  plates ;  the  tailings  are  concentrated  on  blankets,  and  the 
Idanket  washings  are  worked  in  an  arrastra.  A  railway  track,  2,100  feet  long, 
is  being  laid  from  the  mine  to  the  mill,  and  vvhen  it  is  finished  the  proprietors 
expect  that  their  entire  expenses  will  not  exceed  $3  per  ton.  The  owners  of  this 
mine  are  Danes,  and  it  is  generally  known  as  the  Danes'  mine,  though  that  name 
belongs  to  the  next  claim. 

The  Danes'  mine,  2,200  feet,  is  on  the  same  vein  as  the  last,  but  has  produced 
nothing  and  is  unopened. 

Reward. — The  Reward  is  1,400  feet  long,  one  mile  southwest  from  Uni.(m- 
town.  The  rock  prospects  well,  and  the  walls  are  slate  on  the  west  and  granite 
on  the  east.  A  tunnel  is  being  run  in  to  strike  the  vein  135  feet  from  the  sur- 
face. 


92  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND   TERRITORIES 

SECTION   VIII. 

PLACER   COUNTY. 

Placer  is  a  large  county,  and  the  only  one  that  reaches  from  the  Sacramento 
river  to  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  State.  It  extends  with  the  meridian  from 
the  middle  fork  of  the  American  to  Bear  river. 

Its  chief  mineral  wealth  is  in  the  Blue  lead,  which  crosses  the  county  at  an 
elevation  of  3,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  is  worked  at  Dutch  Flat,  Gold  liun, 
Indiana  Hill,  Iowa  Hill,  Picayune  Divide,  Yankee  Jim,  and  Forest  Hill.  An- 
cient gravel  deposits  appear  also  at  Todd's  Valley,  Paradise,  Bath,  Michigan 
Bluff,  Damascus,  and  Monona  Flat. 

The  surface  placers  of  the  county  produce  vciy  little  now.  The  county,  in 
proporti(^n  to  the  richness  of  placers,  has,  so  far  as  known,  the  poorest  quartz 
mines  in  the  State.  The  Green  Emigrant  mine,  lately  opened,  has  produced 
some  rich  specimens,  but  the  owners  keep  the  amount  secret,  and  tliey  have  no 
mill ;  and  no  other  quartz  mine  in  Placer  has  paid  any  considerable  profit. 

Miscellaneous  Resources. — Nearly  all  of  the  Central  Pacific  railroad  in 
California  is  in  this  county,  and  the  people  have  derived  considerable  profit  fi'oni 
it  in  one  way  or  another.  The  county  is  also  crossed  by  the  unfinished  road 
from  Lincoln  to  Marysville. 

The  county  is  supplied  with  water  for  mining  and  inigation  by  the  Bear  river, 
South  Yuba,  Dutch  Flat,  Michigan  Bluff,  and  numerous  smaller  ditches.  Their 
total  number  is  29  ;  their  length,  699  miles;  their  cost,  .$2,000,000. 

The  western  and  lower  part  of  the  county  has  much  good  farming  land. 
There  are  60,000  acres  of  land  enclosed,  20,000  cultivated,  including  .3,000  in 
wheat,  310,000  grape  vines,  30,000  apple  trees,  as  many  peach  trees,  5,000  head 
of  neat  cattle,  20,000  sheep,  20  saw-mills,  which  turn  out  10,000,000  feet  of 
lumber  annuall}',  14  toll-roads  131  miles  long,  made  at  a  cost  of  $350,000,  and 
$3,000,000  of  taxable  property. 

The  Forest  Hill  Divide. — :The  Forest  Hill  ridge,  on  the  southern  line  of 
tlie  county,  at  an  elevation  varying  from  3,000  to  3,500  feet  above  the  sea,  has 
the  rich  mining  camps  of  Todd's  Vallej^,  Forest  Hill,  Bath,  and  Michigan  Bluff, 
on  the  south  side  of  the  ridge,  and  Yankee  Jim  and  Damascus  on  the  north. 
Todd's  Valley,  Michigan  Bluff,  and  Yankee  Jim  had  chiefly  hydraulic  claims, 
and  are  now  nearly  worked  out.  Bath  has  cement  claims,  and  is  more  prosperous 
than  ever,  besides  being  a  pretty  town  prettily  situated.  Forest  Hill  has  declined 
much,  but  it  has  a  large  body  of  rich  ground,  and  will  probably  see  a  return  of 
prosperity. 

Yankee  Jim  was  a  long  time  the  chief  trading  point  for  this  divide,  but  now 
it  has  lost  its  trade,  as  well  as  exhausted  its  placers. 

The  gold  at  Damascus  has  the  peculiarity  that  a  tin-cup-full  of  it  will  weigh 
20  per  cent,  more  than  an  equal  measure  of  the  counaon  dust. 

Forest  Hill. —  Forest  Hill,  which  has  been  the  most  productive  cement 
tunnel-mining  district  in  the  State,  is  situated  22  miles  eastward  from  Aubtu'u, 
at  an  elevation  of  3,400  feet  high,  on  tlie  summit  of  the  divide  between  the 
middle  fork  of  the  American  and  Shirt  Tail  canon.  The  town  is  2,500  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  middle  fork,  and  about  a  mile  distant.  The  scenery 
along  the  canon  is  grand.  Five  miles  further  up  the  divide  is  ]\Iichigan  Blufl", 
and  the  Aubm'n  stage  runs  through  to  that  point;  but  there  is  no  other  stage 
running  to  Forest  Hill.  The  canons  north  and  south  ai'c  too  deep  and  steep  for 
much  wagon  travel.  The  Forest  Hill  ridge  appears  to  be  composed  of  aurifer- 
ous gravel  covered  by  volcanic  sand,  but  tlie  Forest  Hill  diggings  are  in  the  Blue 
lead  which  cros.ses  tlu;  ridge  from  north  to  south.  These  diggings  are  500  feek 
below  the  summit  and  2,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river. 

The  Blue  Lead  at  Forest  Hill. — In  the  Blue  lead  the  lowest  stratum 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  '9$ 

re!>tiji£^  on  the  sl;ito-l>o»l  rock  is  tlio,  blue  ccnu'iit  ])iopor,  from  5  to  20  feet  in 
tliicknoss;  above  that  is  a  red  ciavel,  100  feet  tliick ;  and  over  that  is  vol- 
ranic  sand,  which  is  covered  in  places  by  a  stratum  of  (rachytic  boulders  and 
Soil.  The  blue  cement  is  harder  than  the  red  "-ravel.  The  boulders  and  pebbles 
in  the  red  ijTavcl  arc  all  of  quartz  ;  those  in  the  blue  arc  quartz,  slate,  and  jr^reen- 
stone.  The  red  gravel  has  smooth  gold  in  coarse  pieces,  most  of  them  weighing 
two  pennyweights  or  more,  and  some  as  much  as  seven  ounces,  and  900  fine. 
The  gold  in  the  blue  cement  is  fine,  flaky,  8G0  fine,  the  largest  piece  not  worth 
more  than  75  cents.  The  slate-bed  rock  is  soft,  and  tlie  gold  is  found  in  its 
seams  to  a  depth  of  fonr  feet.  This  gold  is  coarse,  and  is  black  externally,  so 
that  a  ])erson  not  familiar  with  it  would  not  suspect  its  value  on  looking  at  it. 
The  lilne  lead  contains  large  (piantities  of  sulphurets,  which  arc  ri(^ii  in  gold. 

The  claims  at  Forest  Hill  are  50  feet  along  the  side  of  the  hill  to  the  person, 
and  extend  in  to  the  middle  of  the  hill,  a  distance  varying  from  2,000  to  5,000 
feet. 

Careless  "WoEKrNTG. — Instead  of  working  the  claim  regularly  from  end  to 
end,  the  companies  generally  sought  to  get  out  the  richest  and  the  softest  dirt; 
and  they  changed  about  from  place  to  place  nearly  every  week,  so  they  had  not 
much  room  to  work.  They  conld  not  afford  to  lay  tracks  down  to  haul  ont  their 
gi'avel ;  many  of  their  drifts  could  be  nsed  for  only  a  brief  period,  and  the  top 
caved  down  in  the  spots  which  they  had  worked,  enclosing  good  ground,  the 
position  ftf  which  cannot  now  be  ascertained  w'ithout  much  expense.  The  New 
Jei"sey  claim  Avas  the  most  notable  exception  to  this  mode  of  procedm'c  in  the 
distiict. 

FuTUiiE  OF  For.EST  IItll. — J.  "VV.  Reamer,  superintendent  of  that  company, 
is  of  the  opinion  that  Forest  Hill  might  be  made  more  productive  than  ever  by 
consolidating  the  claims  and  working  them  systematically  on  a  large  scale. 
There  onght  to  be  a  large  tunnel  for  each,  half  a  mile,  60  feet  below  the  level 
of  the  present  tunnels,  so  as  to  be  certain  of  having  drainage  for  the  deepest 
gravel  that  could  be  found.  These  tunnels  shonld  be  made  for  the  purpose  of 
using  mules  to  haul  out  the  gravel  and  haul  in  the  cars.  There  should  l)e  large 
mills  to  crush  the  cement;  the  sulphurets  should  be  saved  carefully,  and  all  the 
pay  dirt  should  he  removed  so  that  a  place  should  not  be  left  until  everything 
of  value  had  been  extracted. 

In  1859  Forest  Hill  shipped  8100,000  of  dust  monthly;  now  $25,000  or  $30,000. 
Forest  Hill  is  one  of  very  few  places  where  the  pay  dirt  swells ;  but  a  tunnel 
cut  in  the  blue  cement,  as  well  as  one  cut  in  the  slate,  will  soon  close  up  here 
by  the  swelling  of  the  earth  if  it  is  not  trimmed  frequently. 

The  Pkixcipal  Claims. — The  principal  claims  at  Forest  Hill  and  in  the 
vicinitv  liave  been  the  following: 

The  Dardanelleshasyielded  82,000,000;  the  Jenny  Lindhasyielded-Sl, 100,000; 
the  New  Jersey  has  yielded  8850,000;  the  Independence  has  yielded  8450,000; 
the  Deidesheimer  has  yielded  8050,000  ;  the  Fast  and  Nortwood,  the  Hough  and 
Ready,  and  the  Gore,  have  each  yielded  8250,000;  the  Alabama  has  yielded 
8150,000. 

It  is  said  that  the  claims  within  rifle-shot  of  the  express  office  have  produced 
not  less  than  810,000,000.  No  other  placer  district  in  the  State  can  show  a  yield 
equal  to  this,  and  yet  it  is  certain  that  a  largo  proportion  of  the  gold  has  been 
lost.  The  gravel  or  cement  extracted  was  hard,  and  a  considerable  proportion 
of  it  was  earned  away  by  the  water  in  lumps  rich  in  gold.  Mr.  Reamer  says 
that  if  he  could  have  another  claim  like  the  New  Jersey  to  work,  with  a  cement 
mill,  and  with  sufficient  means  to  cut  his  tunnels  and  drifts  in  the  most  economical 
manner,  he  could  obtain  82,000,000  instead  of  8850,000  from  the  same  quantity 
of  dirt. 

Claims  at  Todd's  Valley. — The  Golden  Calf  claim,  near  Todd's  valley, 


94  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

])clow  Forest  Hill,  has  1,000  feet  front  on  tlie  hillside  and  a  tunnel  1,800  feet 
lonc^.     it  has  never  been  worked  systematieaily,  and  has  not  j)aid. 

The  Big  Springs  claim,  with  975  feet  of  front^ige,  is  being  opened,  and  mean- 
time a  10-Rtanip  cement  mill  built  to  work  it  is  standing  idle. 

Dahdaxells. — The  Dardanells  Company  have  1,000  feet  front,  commenced 
Avork  in  1853,  and  have  been  at  work  ever  since — at  first  drifting  and  now 
piping.  They  have  taken  out  S2, 000, 000  from  the  blue  gravel,  which  is  soft 
there.  They  luxve  worked  out  400  feet  along  the  front,  have  run  tunnels  1,600 
or  1,800  feet,  and  have  drifted  out  much  ground.  They  can  hydraulic  away 
about  300  I'eet  along  the  face  of  their  claim,  but  beyond  that  the  hill  is  too 
deep  to  pay  for  piping.  At  one  time  the  company  employed  GO  or  70  men,  now 
they  have  only  four  or  live,  but  these  with  pipes  do  more  than  twelve  times  the 
.num1)er  did  drifting.  Tlie  «)mpany  own  a  ditch  which  is  10  miles  long,  cost 
$15,000,  and  supplies  300  inches  of  water  from  the  1st  December  till  the  1st  of 
June. 

Oro,  Gkekn  Spkikg  and  Uncle  Sam. — The  Oro,  1,000  feet,  has  yielded 
835,000,  but  is  now  in  litigation,  is  not  doing  anything  of  note,  and  never  was 
worked  with  much  system.     There  is  a  20-stanip  cement  mill  on  it,  now  idle. 

The  Green  Spring,  750  feet  long,  has  a  bed-rock  tunnel  reaching  to  the  pay 
dirt,  none  of  which  luis  yet  been  worked.  The  tunnel  was  commenced  in  1854,  by 
poor  men,  who  worked  a  portion  of  their  time  in  surface  placers  or  as  hired  laborers 
to  get  the  means  for  continuing  work  on  this  claim.  It  is  probable  that  the  front 
of  the  hill  will  be  piped  away  so  as  to  expose  the  comeut,  which  can  then  be 
obtained,  at  little  cost,  for  crushing. 

The  Uncle  Sam  Company  have  100  feet  and  have  done  very  little.  Throe 
men  are  engaged  in  tunnelling  and  washing. 

Hope  and  Houkland. — The  Hope  claim  is  500  feet  long  on  the  hillside,  has 
a  Tunnel  2,000  feet  long  in  bed  rock,  has  a  20-stamp  mill,  has  yielded  $20,000, 
and  has  cost  .$100,000.  The  mine  is  now  being  opened  with  the  expectation  of 
crushing.     The  mill  was  kept  running  six  weeks  and  paid  well. 

The  Rockland,  Baltimore  and  Bostcm  claim  is  2,600  feet  long;  has  a  tunnel 
.2,300  feet  long;  has  cost  S100,000,  and  has  yielded  no  return  as  yet.  The 
tunnel  was  commenced  in  1854,  and  it  has  not  yet  reached  the  channel. 

Fast  and  Noiitwood. — The  Fast  and  Nortwood  claim,  400  f(!Ct  long,  has 
been  worked  through  the  Baltimore  tunnel,  and  has  yielded  $250,000.  The 
company  run  their  dirt  in  drifts  on  four  different  levels,  and  must  load  it  four 
different  times  before  thoy  get  it  to  the  surface.  The  claim,  in  consequence  of 
this  mode  of  working,  has  not  been  profitable  for  several  ye^rs,  but  the  cement 
is  rich,  paying  $5  to  the  carload,  or  about  $7  50  per  ton,  and  thej'o  is  a  largo 
quantity  of  it.     There  is  a  lO-stainp  mill  to  crush  the  cement. 

Snyder. — The  Snyder  claim,  200  feet  long,  has  yielded  $250,000.  This  was 
the  pioneer  claim  of  the  district,  the  blue  lead  having  been  discovered  here  in 
December,  1852,  by  Mr.  Snyder,  on  a  hillside  where  a  slide  occurred,  exposing 
the  rich  gravel  to  view.  A  little  basin  40  feet  in  diameter  at  the  slide  yielded 
§40,000.  When  work  was  stopped,  three  years  ago,  there  was  a  tunnel  1,800 
feot  long,  but  as  tho  rock  swells  very  rapidly  it  is  now  entirely  closed  up.  There 
was  a  stretch  of  400  feet  in  the  tunnel  where  the  rock  swelled  so  rapidly  that 
as  much  rock  as  would  1111  the  tunnel  had  to  be  taken  out  in  each  period  of 
eight  months.  The  entire  yield  was  obtained  from  the  red  gravel,  and  that  was 
worked  without  system. 

Independence. — The  Independence,  now  unitod  with  tho  adjoining  Now 
Jersey  claim,  had  a  tunnel  3,500  feet  long,  and  produced  S450,000  botore  the 
consolidation.  It  was  worked  without  system.  One  spot  about  20  feet  square 
yielded  $10,000. 

Neav  Jersey. — Tho  New  Jersey  claim  is  650  feet  front  by  4,000  feot  deep, 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  9§ 

umler  tho  lower  part  of  iho  town  of  Forest  Hill.  Work  was  commenced  in 
Au<Tust,  18.')3,  on  the  tininel,  and  six  years  and  a  lialf  of  hard  work  passed  with 
an  expenditure  of  $150,000  before  any  n^turn  was  obtained.  When  the  tunnel 
was  in  1,800  feet,  an  incline  was  run  upwards  to  the  red  gravel,  which  was  found 
to  be  rich,  and  the  SS,30,000  were  taken  from  an  area  500  I'eet  long  by  400 
feet  wide.  The  extraction  of  gravel  was  continued  till  April,  1SG7,  when  drifts 
were  commenced  to  open  new  ground.  Tho  tunnel  was  started  in  1853,  with  tho 
confident  expectiition  of  reaching  pay  in  a  year;  but  as  the  work  advanced  moro 
slowly  and  cost  far  more,  the  company  had  to  nin  in  debt,  and  when  they  reached 
the  pay  their  debts  amounted  to  $30,000  or  more,  and  some  of  them  had  been 
outstanding  for  moro  than  four  years.  The  creditors  numlxired  8  or  10,  mostly 
merchants,  who  knew  nothing  of  the  New  Jersey  Company  save  that  they 
ap})eared  to  bo  hard-working,  sober,  honest  men,  and  were  trying  to  develop  a 
claim  suppo8e<l  to  bo  valuable.  There  was  no  long  personal  acquaintance  and 
no  security.  The  debts  boro  three  per  cent,  interest  per  month.  The  most 
dangerous  |)oriotl  for  the  company  was  after  they  began  to  wash.  A  dislionest 
creditor  might  then,  perhaps,  have  taken  the  claim,  or  at  least  have  caused  much 
expense  by  an  attachment  suit ;  so  the  fact  of  the  finding  of  good  pay  was  kept 
as  secret  as  possible  imtil  the  S30,000  had  been  taken  out,  and  then  all  were  paid 
oft' at  once.  This  system  of  giving  credits  was  general  in  the  mines  15  years 
ago,  when  tho  profits  charged  were  veiy  high,  when  large  interest  was  allowed, 
when  many  extensive  enterprises  were  undertaken,  and  when  a  large  number  of 
these  enterprises  met  with  magnificent  success,  of  which  the  New  Jersey  claim 
is  a  bright  example. 

Seven  channels  have  been  found  in  this  claim  running  with  the  slates  about 
northwest  and  southeast,  all  parallel  to  one  another,  about  25  feet  apart,  60 
feet  wide,  with  ridges  of  rock  seven  feet  high  between  them.  The  dip  from 
each  side  of  tho  divide  seems  to  bo  towards  the  middle  of  the  hill.  There 
is  no  water  for  washing  from  the  middle  of  July  till  the  middle  of  November, 
and  meantime  tho  dirt  extracted  is  thrown  into  a  pit  lai"ge  enough  to  hold  8,000 
tons,  whero  water  is  thrown  on  it  occasionally  so  as  to  soften  the  cement  and 
also  to  attach  the  mass  together  and  pi'event  it  from  sliding  down  hill  when  tho 
rains  corao.  In  busy  times  the  New  Jersey  Company  employs  GO  or  70  men, 
the  annual  expenses  aro  SCO, 000  or  $70,000,  and  the  profit  one-half  of  the  yield. 

The  dirt  is  hauled  out  in  cars  four  feet  and  nine  inches  long,  28  inches 
wide,  and  15  inches  deep.  The  weight  (jf  an  ordinary  car-load  is  1,600  pounds. 
A  steady  stream  of  water  runs  out  from  the  tunnel  and  is  caught  in  wooden  reser- 
voii>>,  20  feet  square  and  eight  feet  deep,  to  be  used  for  washing.  The  sluice  is 
half  a  mile  long,  and  the  grade  is  in  one  part  18  inches  and  in  another  23  inches, 
to  12  feet.  The  steepness  of  the  canon  renders  it  necessary  to  have  a  steep 
sluice!  Slat  riflles  matle  of  five  strips  of  board  an  inch  thick,  two  inches  wide 
and  six  foot  long,  with  strips  of  the  same  thickness  set  between  at  the  ends  and 
the  middle  and  bolted  through,  are  used.  The  top  of  each  strip  is  shod  with 
a  strip  of  iron  an  inch  and  a  half  wide  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  screwed 
on  and  countereunk. 

Jenxy  Lind. — The  Jenny  Liud,  450  feet  on  tho  hillside,  had  a  tunnel  2,800 
feet  long,  which  is  now  probably  closed  up,  at  least  in  places,  since;  no  work  has 
been  done  for  three  yeai>>.  The  yield,  almost  exclusively  from  the  red  gravel, 
was  $1,100,000,  and  there  is  a  large  amount  of  ground  still  unworked.  In  this 
claim  were  found  many  rich  quartz  boulders.  The  yield  of  $1,100,000  was 
obtained  by  the  company  from  the  first  washing,  leaving  to  others  who  rewashed 
the  dirt  a  very  largo  sum  in  addition. 

GoKE,  Maine,  and  Rough. — The  Gore  claim,  100  feet  wide  in  front  on  tho 
hillside  and  twice  as  wide  further  back,  took  out  $250,000  from  a  tunnel  1,200 
feet  long.  No  work  has  been  done  for  four  or  five  yeare.  Rich  quartz  ]Kmldci"S 
were  tound  in  this  claim  also. 


96  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

The  Maine  claim,  200  feet  front,  had  a  tunnel  1,200  feet  long,  and  took  out 
$250,000.     No  work  has  ))een  done  for  four  years. 

The  Ivon2:li  and  Ready  has  1,200  feet  front,  had  a  tunnel  1,200  feet  long-, 
took  out  $250,000,  and  has  done  no  work  for  three  years. 

Deidesheimek  and  Others. — The  Deidesheimer  has  400  feet  front,  had  a 
tunnel  1,800  feet  long,  took  out  $650,000,  obtained  much  from  quartz  boulders,  • 
and  has  done  nothing  for  three  years. 

The  India  Rubber  has  250  feet  front,  had  a  tunnel  1,200  feet  long,  produced 
$50,000,  and  has  done  no  work  for  three  years. 

The  Alabama  has  a  frontage  of  300  feet,  had  a  tunnel  1,200  feet  long,  took 
$150,000,  and  has  done  nothing  in  the  last  three  years. 

.  The  Eagle  has  200  feet  front,  had  a  tunnel  800  feet  long,  expended  $40,000 
or  $50,000,  and  took  out  $15,000. 

The  Moss  has  900  feet  front  and  a  tunnel  1,000  feet  long,  but  found  no 
gravel,  though  it  is  generally  supposed  that  there  is  rich  gravel  in  the  claim. 
Quartz  was  found  in  the  tunnel,  and  a  10-stamp  mill  was  erected  to  work  it; 
but  it  did  not  pay.  This  is  the  last  claim  to  the  eastward  in  the  Forest  Hill 
district. 

An  unrepealed  pi'ovision  in  the  miners'  regulations  of  tlie  district  requires  one 
day's  work  every  month  from  December  till  June  to  hold  the  claims,  but  so 
much  work  has  been  done  that  nobody  seems  to  think  of  forfeiture  under  the 
letter  of  the  regulations. 

MicniGAK  Bluff. — Michigan  Bluff,  seven  miles  from  Forest  Hill,  on  the 
same  divide,  and  29  miles  from  Auburn,  saw  its  best  days  between  1853  and 
1858,  when  it  shipped  $100,000  per  month;  and  now  it  does  not  ship  more  than 
$25,000.  The  claims  were  worked  first  by  drifting  and  then  by  the  hydraulic 
process,  and  for  a  time  this  was  one  of  the  principal  hydraulic  camps  in  the  State. 

The  pay  stratum  is  remarkable  on  account  of  containing  ninety-five  per  cent, 
of  quartz  boulders,  pebbles,  and  sand,  and  not  more  than  five  per  cent,  of  clay. 
Some  of  the  boulders  weigh  twenty  tons,  and  half  the  weight  of  the  boulders  is 
in  tliose  that  weigh  over  a  quarter  of  a  ton  each.  This  quartz  is  very  white, 
and  immense  piles  of  the  boulders — probably  hundreds  of  thousands  of  tons — 
are  piled  over  the  many  acres  that  have  been  washed  ofl".  The  deepest  claim  is 
80  feet  deep,  and  probably  all  the  ground  washed  off"  averaged  40  feet,  of  which 
at  least  five  feet  Avere  in  boulders  that  are  larger  than  a  man's  head,  and  that 
now  lie  on  the  ground. 

The  only  claim  now  at  work  on  a  large  scale  at  Michigan  Bluff  is  the  North 
American,  and  there  is  little  expectation  of  extensive  work  in  any  other  claim 
for  some  years.  There  are  places  that  would  pay  if  water  could  be  obtained 
conveniently,  and  there  is  much  ground  known  to  be  rich,  but  it  would  not  pay 
at  present. 

'JMie  price  of  water  in  1859  was  37.J  cents  per  inch,  and  it  was  reduced  suc- 
cessively to  30,  25,  and  20  cents;  in  1865,  to  17^,  and  in  1866,  to  15  cents  per 
inch. 

Tlie  original  size  of  the  claims  was  100  feet  square  to  the  man. 

Tail  Sluices. — There  are  four  tail  sluices,  making  a  quarter  of  a  mile  alto- 
gether, in  Stickness's  Gulch,  below  Michigan  Bluff.  The  sluice  is  four  feet 
wide,  three  deep,  with  vertical  sides,  and  a  grade  of  14  inches  to  the  sluice- 
box.  Part  is  paved  with  wooden  blocks  and  part  with  boulders.  From  1860 
to  1863  the  tail  sluice  jiaid  very  well^  as  four  or  five  companies  tailed  into  it, 
but  now  there  is  only  one. 

North  Ameiucax. — The  North  Ameiican  claim,  as  originally  located,  was 
600  feet  long  and  400  feet  wide ;  but  much  additional  ground  has  been  pur- 
chased, and  half  of  the  original  area  is  worked  out.  Sluicing  and  drifting  were 
counnenced  in  1854  in  front,  where  the  claim  was  shallow;  and  in  1858,  when 
deeper  gravel  had  been  reached,  piping  began.     In  1860  a  bed-rock  tunnel 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  97 

1,400  feet  loii^ — iu  ono  place  loO  rect  uikUt  iho  surface  of  llie  rim  roclv — con- 
structed at  a  cost  oi"  810,000,  was  lirst  used  lor  wasliiiiiif.  The  tirade  is  13 
inches  to  12  feet,  l»ut  oiijfht  inches  is  considered  ])referal>lc.  The  sluice  in  the  tun- 
lud  is  two  feet  wide  at  the  bottom,  32  inches  wide  at  the  top,  and  two  feet  deep. 
The  llariuii;  are  better  than  vertical  sides  for  the  jiassag'c  <if  larg'c  boulders  two 
vr  three  feet  thronj^h,  thou<:-h  anything  over  loO  pounds  injju'cs  the  sluice. 
Nearly  all  the  gold  is  caught  within  200  feet  at  the  head  of  the  sluice,  where 
the  b(.>ttoni  is  covered  with  slat  frames  six  feet  long  and  one  foot  wide,  with 
four  franu's  to  one  sluice-box.  The  slats  are  boards  an  inch  thick,  ''shod" 
with  iron  straps  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick  and  an  inch  and  a  half  wide. 
All  the  sluice-boxes  below  the  lirst  200  feet  are  paved  with  iir  blocks  eight  inches 
thick.  The  iii'st  hundred  feet  of  the  sluice  are  cleaned  up  e\ery  evening,  and 
the  second  hundred  twice  a  week.  This  cleaning  up  keeps  the  riffles  in  good 
order,  and  requires  half  or  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  There  are  2,300  feet  of 
li-inch  pipe  and  150  of  7-inch  pipe  in  use  iu  the  claim.  The  total  vicld  has 
been  §300,000. 

NiTRO-GLYCERiNE. — The  number  of  men  now  employed  is  15}  last  j'car  it 
it  was  28.  One  of  the  chief  difficulties  in  this  claim  is  the  removal  of  the 
of  the  stratum  of  pipe-clay  which  rests  on  the  pay  gravel  and  must  be  carried 
off  in  the  sluice.  It  is  too  hard  to  be  piped  away,  so  it  must  be  blasted  into 
small  pieces.  Previous  to  this  yofu:  powder  was  used,  but  now  Sir.  Swenson, 
one  of  the  partners  of  this  claim,  and  the  jjioneer  manufacturer  of  nitro-glycciine 
in  California,  su])plies  that  fluid,  which  is  so  much  better  than  gunpowder  that 
1-5  men  do  more  in  1807  than  28  did  in  ISGG.  The  nitro-glyccrine  shatters 
the  pipe-clay  into  a  multitude  of  little  pieces,  whereas  powder  broke  it  into  a 
few  large  ones ;  so,  after  a  powder  blast,  the  miners  had  to  reduce  the  large 
lamps  with  gads,  for  which  there  is  now  little  use.  It  costs  about  $2  per  pound, 
and  is  preferred  by  the  miners  after  they  once  become  accustomed  to  it.  No 
accident  has  happened  with  it  on  this  claim,  although  sometimes  two  or  three 
dozen  blasts  are  set  off  iu  a  day.  The  smoke  ixom  it  disappears  sooner  than 
that  fi'om  powder,  but  it  is  more  injm'ious. 

About  400  inches  of  water  are  used  iu  the  North  American  claim  for  four  or 
five  days  iu  the  week. 

Bath  District, — The  following  claims  are  in  the  Bath  district,  adjoining  the 
Forest  Hill  district: 

In  the  San  Francisco  claim  no  work  has  been  done  for  a  long  time. 

The  Oro  claim  never  yielded  much,  and  is  doing  nothing  now. 

The  Kip  claim,  450  feet  front,  has  a  tunnel  450  feet  long  in  the  bed  rock. 
From  this  tunnel  a  shaft  has  been  raised  to  the  Paragon  sheet,  which  was  worked 
from  1852  to  1858.  The  company  are  preparing  to  pi])e  away  the  front  of  the 
claim,  and  they  intend  to  erect  a  mill  next  year.  Work  is  continued  meantime 
on  the  tunnel. 

The  Golden  Gate  Company  have  180  feet  front,  and  own  half  of  a  joint  tunnel, 
400  feet  long,  on  the  boundary  line  of  the  Hough  Gold  Conn)any.  They  aro 
are  n<nv  working  the  blue  gravel,  and  getting  $'5  per  ton  i'rom  it,  but  they  intend 
to  work  the  Paragon  sheet.  They  have  a  five-stamp  mill,  driven  by  a  hurdy- 
gurdy  wheel. 

The  Rough  Gold  Company  have  a  frontage  of  only  a  few  feet,  but  the  claim 
grows  wider  as  it  goes  back  into  the  hill,  and  400  feet  back  it  is  200  feet  wide. 
There  is  a  tuiMiel  1,800  feet  long,  150  feet  under  the  Paragon  sheet,  whiv'h  ig 
now  being  worked;  but  the  tunnel  was  located  for  the  puqiose  of  working  the 
blue  gravel.  There  is  a  10-stamp  mill,  which  was  erected  in  18G6,  and  is  now 
running  steadily. 

Paua(U)X.— The  Paragon  claim  has  a  front  of  250  feet,  extends  a  mile  and  a 
half  through  the  hill,  and  is  400  feet  wide  at  the  back.  The  pay  stratum  now 
7 


98  KESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

worked  is  a  deposit  of  rasty  gray  gravel,  four  feet  deep,  resting  on  tlie  blue  gravel 
100  feet  deep,  and  covered  by  volcanic  sand.  The  blue  gravel  immediately  on 
the  bed  rock,  as  well  as  for  100  feet  above,  contains  some  gold,  but  not  enough 
to  offer  much  profit.  The  gray  gravel  contains  $10  per  ton,  the  gold  being 
coarse,  some  of  the  pieces  weighing  two  or  three  ounces,  and  others  containing 
quartz  attached. 

"Work  was  commenced  on  the  claim  in  1852,  and  the  gi'avel  was  sluiced  for 
10  years.  It  was  so  tough,  however,  that  it  had  to  be  washed  repeatedly,  and 
after  all  muck  of  the  clay  escaped  undissolved.  At  the  first  washing  the  peld 
was  about  $1  per  ton,  and  the  second,  third,  and  fourth  washings,  made  at 
inter\-als  of  a  year,  yielded  each  $2  per  ton,  and  81  per  ton  for  the  fifth,  sixth, 
and  seventh  washings.  Freezing  and  thawing  slaked  the  cement  more  rapidly 
than  did  sun  or  rain.  In  1864  a  20-stamp  mill  was  built,  and  then  the  claim  first 
began  to  prove  its  high  value.  The  yield  of  the  claim  was  8100,000  in '1866, 
half  of  it  profit.  The  yield  per  ton  in  the  mill  is  no  more  than  it  was  in  the 
sluice,  but  the  dirt  is  now  not  so  rich  as  it  was  before. 

The  gray  gravel,  or  "sheet,"  as  it  is  called,  has  all  been  taken  out  for  1,600 
feet  fi'ont.  The  tunnel  is  in  the  middle  of  the  claim  in  the  blue  gi'avel,  20 
feet  below  tlie  sheet.  The  pay  dirt  is  breasted  out  on  drifts,  wkich  run  entii-ely 
across  the  claim,  so  that  there  are  400  feet  of  breast  for  the  men  to  work  at. 
The  gravel  becomes  softer  when  exposed  to  the  air,  so  the  large  breast  gives 
the  benefit  of  exposure,  as  well  as  of  abundant  room.  At  intervals  of  30  feet 
a  chute  is  made  from  the  sheet  down  to  the  tunnel,  for  the  pm-pose  of  throwing 
down  the  gravel ;  few  timbers  are  used,  and  the  roof  falls  down  upon  the  blue 
gravel,  close  upon  the  heels  of  the  miners.  Two  men  are  constantly  employed 
repaiiing  the  tunnel,  which  would  close  up  in  a  month,  if  neglected.  The  blue 
gravel  swells  very  much  in  one  stretch  of  150  feet. 

There  is  enough  dii-t  in  sight  for  four  years'  work.  All  the  dirt  is  picked 
down. 

The  mill  crushes  200  tons  a  week,  and  the  expenses  are  81,000  per  week. 
Fifty  men  are  employed :  32  miners;  fom*  carmen  in  the  tunnel;  two  carmen  out- 
side; two  tunnel  menders;  four  feeders,  and  six  others  in  and  about  the  mill. 
Two  men  feed  the  20  stamps,  and  two  others  pick  out  the  large  stones  from  the 
gravel. 

The  stamps  weigh  700  pounds,  have  75  drops  per  minute,  and  13  inches  Ml. 

The  screen  is  punched  with  holes  a  sixteenth  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  but  they 
soon  wear  larger. 

Two  tons  of  gravel  are  fed  per  hour  to  each  five-stamp  battery^  and  three  inches 
of  water  run  steadily  into  eacli  mortar. 

A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  quicksilver  is  put  in  ever>-  morning,  and  as  much  more 
every  evening  into  each  battery. 

A  flask  of  quicksilver  is  bought  once  in  four  months,  implying  the  loss  of  75 
pounds  in  that  period,  or  half  a  pound  per  day  on  an  average,  or  one-quarter  of  all 
that  is  used.     The  retorting  is  done  carefully,  so  the  loss  is  in  the  sluice. 

Below  the  mortars  are  Jenny  Liml  riffles,  and  below'  those  hmdy-gurdy  riffles. 
It  is  said  the  claim  was  sold  in  August,  1867,  for  8150,000. 

Other  Bath  Claims. — The  Greek  claim,  160  feet  front,  has  lately  been 
bought  by  the  Paragon  Company  for  80,650.  This  claim  paid  well  in  front,  but 
was  not  worked  well;  the  tuimel  closed  up;  the  owners  quarrelled,  and  then  they 
sold  out. 

The  New  York  claim,  200  feet  front,  has  a  sheet  like  that  of  the  Paragon, 
save  that  it  is  on  the  bed  rock.  A  tuiniel  was  cut  1,800  feet  long  in  the  bed 
rock,  at  an  expense  of  $15,000,  but  bad  air  proved  very  troublesome;  the  work 
was  stopped  before  pay  was  reached  j  the  tunnel  closed  up,  and  nothing  has 
been  done  for  three  yeai's. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  99 

Th(>  Soliastopol  Company  lias  a  frout  of  1,000  feet,  cut  a  tunnel  SOO  feet  in 
very  hard  rock,  found  no  [)ay,  and  stopped  work  in  186(5,  after  spending-  $20,000. 

Damascus. — Damascus,  twelve  miles  northeast  of  Forrest  llill,  on  the  same 
divide,  but  on  its  north  side,  has  the  same  slate  bed  rock,  and  a  similar  bed  of 
blue  cement,  thoup^h  there  is  no  overlyiuij^  red  gravel. 

The  Damascus  Company  has  a  claim  500  feet  in  front,  and  3,000  long,  running 
into  the  hill.  The  blue  cement  is  four  feet  thick,  lies  immediately  on  a  soft 
talcosc  slate-bed  rock,  soft  enough  to  pick,  and  is  covered  b^-  GOO  feet  of  volcairio 
sand;  at  least  it  is  supposed  to  be  sand,  though  no  careful  examination  has  been 
made  of  it.  The  richest  pai't  of  the  cement  is  within  15  inches  of  the  bottom, 
but  the  largest  nuggets  of  gold  are  found  in  the  bed  rock.  The  gold  is  mostly 
coarse,  in  long  narrow  ])ieces,  and  those  found  in  the  bed  rock,  like  those  found 
at  Forest  Hill,  are  frequently  quite  black. 

The  claim  is  opened  by  a  tunnel,  450  feet  long,  of  whicli  distance  200  feet 
were  passed  before  the  rim  had  been  pierced. 

The  tunnel  runs  nearly  south-southeast,  aliout  the  middle  of  the  claim,  and 
apparently  in  the  middle  of  what  was  the  channel  of  the  ancient  stream.  The 
present  su})ply  of  cement  is  obtained  northeast  of  the  tunnel,  and  the  breast  is 
about  200  feet,  extending  nearly  half  way  across  the  claim.  A  pillar  20  feet 
wide  is  left  standing  alongside  of  the  tunnel  to  protect  it.  A  rail  track  is  kept 
along  the  face  of  the  breast,  and  after  20  feet  have  been  breasted  out,  the  track 
is  relaid  for  convenience  of  loading.  The  tunnel  is  eight  feet  below  the  bed  of 
the  channel,  and  the  load  in  the  breast  car  is  dumped  into  the  tunnel  car. 

There  are  many  large  q^uartz  boaklers,  some  of  them  weighing  a  ton  each  in 
the  cement,  and  these  arc  thrown  back  to  support  the  proof,  whicli  never  cracks. 
A  post  six  feet  high,  with  a  cap  30  inches  long,  is  set  up  in  each  square  of  30  feet 
at  the  breast,  but  so  far  there  has  been  no  trouble  with  the  roof. 

There  is  a  10-stamp  mill,  driven  by  steam,  Init  it  runs  only  in  day-time  for  lack 
of  water  to  run  longer.  The  company  intend  to  make  a  ditch,  so  that  the  mill 
can  run  day  and  night.  Twenty-five  tons  of  cement  are  cnished  every  day,  and 
the  average  yield  so  far  has  been  83  35  to  a  car  load  of  1,700  pounds,  or  $3  94 
per  ton.  The  bed  rock,  of  which  15  inches  are  dug  up,  is  not  crushed,  but  is 
simply  washed  in  the  sluice. 

The  stamps  weigh  G50  pounds  each,  make  70  to  80  blows  per  minute,  and 
drop  from '9  to  11  inches.  When  the  shoes  and  dies  are  new  the  drop  is  9  inches, 
and  the  number  of  blows  80,  and  when  the  drop  is  11  inches  the  number  of 
blows  is  70. 

Three  inches  of  water  are  turned  into  each  mortar,  and  three  inches  more  are 
turned  into  the  sluice  below. 

The  cost  of  the  mill,  including  the  engine,  was  $12,000,  and  the  expenses  daily 
are  the  following,  viz:  a  cord  of  wood,  $3;  an  engineer,  $4;  a  blacksmith,  $3; 
a  feeder,  $3 ;  six  miners,  $3  each.  Five  men  breast  out  five  tons  per  day  to  a 
man,  and  one  camian  takes  out  the  cement.  The  engine  is  of  forty-horse  power. 
Two  candles  are  burned  per  day  to  the  brcaster. 

The  mill  was  built  before  the  mine  was  i)roperly  opened. 

The  bed  rock  does  not  swell.  The  bed  rock  is  full  of  vertical  quartz-veins 
averaging  a  few  inches  in  thickness,  running  south-southwest  and  north-north- 
cast.  These  seams  appear  to  form  in  places  half  of  the  bed  rock;  some  of  them 
are  a  foot  thick,  and  some  as  thin  as  paper.  Tlie  same  quartz  veins,  but  more 
strongly  marked,  are  found  in  a  second  tunnel,  which  is  65  feet  lower  and  350 
feet  long. 

Mountain-  Gate. — The  Mountain  Gate  claim,  adjoining  the  Damascus  on 
the  west,  has  2,000  feet  front,  and  the  tunnel  I'uns  in  4,000  feet.  The  bed  rock 
is  35  feet  higher  than  in  the  Damascus,  it  swells,  there  is  less  quartz  in  the 
l>ed  rock,  and  some  of  the  gravel  is  softer;  but  otherwise  there  is  much  sim- 
ilarity in  the  two  claims.     The  tunnel  was  started  40  feet  below  the  top  of  the 


100  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

rim  rock,  wliicli  was  passed  in  500  feet,  and  then  the  tunnel  Vvas  extended  3,500 
feet,  nmning  nearly  level,  and  the  company  are  now  tronlded  so  raucli  hy  water 
that  they  have  started  another  tunnel  Go  feet  deeper,  and  it  is  in  1,500  feet.  The 
tunnel  is  al>out  200  feet  from  the  Damascus  line,  and  they  have  worked  200  feet 
on  each  side  of  the  tunnel.  They  breast  out  on  the  same  system  as  that  used  in 
the  Damascus. 

They  have  no  mill,  and  when  they  come  to  cement  too  hard  to  wash,  they 
nsnally  leave  it  behind  and  virtually  throw  it  away.  Some  of  it,  however,  is  so 
rich  that  it  pays  to  crush  with  a  liand  mortar.  The  softer  cement  is  washed  three 
or  four  times,  at  intervals  of  six  or  eight  montlis.  Three-fourths  of  the  total 
yield  is  ol>tained  at  the  lirst  washing,  and  thi-ee-lbmlhs  of  the  further  yield  at  the 
second.     The  sluice  is  200  feet  long. 

There  are  16  partners,  all  of  whom  work  in  the  claim,  and  they  seldom  hire 
anybody.  Rumor  says  the  present  yield  is  $12  per  day  to  the  man,  though 
the  work  done  is  much  less  than  the  amount  recpiired  from  hired  men.  The 
claim  has  been  worked  for  12  years,  and  has  produced  altogether  $370,000.  They 
have  enough  water  from  their  own  claim  to  wash  all  their  dirt. 

The  bed  rock  rises  150  feet  near  the  western  line  of  the  Mountain  Gate,  and 
at  the  eastern  line  of  the  Damascus,  so  those  tvv'o  comj^anies  take  the  whole  chan- 
nel there. 

Iowa  Hill. — At  Iowa  Hill  the  blue  cement  lies  on  the  bed  rock,  or  lay  before 
it  was  mined  out,  12  or  IS  feet  deep.  The  cement  was  so  soft  that  it  could  be 
]ucked  out,  and  so  hard  that  it  could  be  washed  once  a  year  for  seven  years  with- 
out l>eing  entirely  disintegrated.  Much  of.  the  cement  was  so  rich  that  it  was 
jiounded  up  in  a  mortar  weighing  250  pouiids,  and  measming  16  inches  across 
the»bowl.  The  pc-stle  weighed  70  or  SO  pounds,  wan  attached  to  a  spring  pole, 
and  was  worked  by  two  men,  who  could  thus  pound  up  two  tons  or  two  tons  and 
a  half  in  a  da3\ 

Over  the  blue  cement  was  a  layer  of  sand  from  one  foot  to  four  feet  in  thick- 
ness.. Upon  that  rested  a  stratum  of  rich  brownish  gravel  six  or  eight  feet 
thick.  Over  this  came  140  feet  of  poor  brown  gravel,  with  layers  of  sand  in  it, 
and  usually  tliere  was  a  very  rich  stratum  of  gravel  just  over  the  sand.  Above 
the  brown  gravel  was  loam  20  or  30  feet  dcej). 

A  few  chiinis  on  this  Blue  lead  were  extremely  profitable.  The  Jamison,  the 
pioneer  claim,  yielded  $500,000 ;  the  North  Star,  $400,000 ;  the  Sailor  Union, 
$300,000;  thelowa  Hill,  $250,000;  and  the  Dutch,  $250,000;  but  three  dozen 
large  tunnels  were  run  and  not  one-third  of  them  paid  expenses.  If  the  loss 
Avcre  l)ahinced  against  the  profit,  the  Iowa  Hill  district  would  not  show  much 
net  gain. 

:  i,  The  town  stands  on  the  summit  of  a  ridge  200  feet  high  and  a  furlong  wide, 
and  tlie  blue  cement  of  the  channel  which  passes  xmder  tlie  town  has  all  been 
drifted  out,  and  the  hjxlraulic  pipe  is  now  at  work  on  both  sides,  so  that  the 
town  site  will  itself  be  washed  away  in  a  few  years. 

The  richest  si)ot  ever  found  in  the  neighborhood  of  Iowa  Hill  was  in  the  brown 
gravel,  from  which  two  men  took  out  $30,000  in  one  day. 

East  of  Iowa  Hill  is  Indian  canon,  reputed  to  have  been  the  richest  canon 
ever  found  in  California. 

Wisconsin  Hill. — Wisconsin  Hill  is  on  the  same  divide  with  Iowa  Hill,  but 
is  two  miles  distant  in  a  southeast  direction,  and  the  two  places  are  separated  by 
a  ravine.  The  channel  is  the  same  as  at  Iowa  Hill,  but  not  so  rich. 
'■  The  Oriental  cement  mill  at  Wisconsin  Hill  was  built  in  186G  and  has  20 
staiips,  but  it  does  not  pay,  as  the  cement  yields  only  80  cents  to  the  ton. 
Fortunately,  the  surface  has  been  stripped,  so  the  cement  lies  bare  and  can  be 
oV)tained  at  little  expense. 

Roach  Hill.-; — Roach  Hill,  one  mile  east  of  Iowa  Hill,  has  had  some  good 
claims. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  101 

i\[(moiia  Flat,  lialf  a  niilo  oast  of  Iioadi  Hill,  lias  also  paid  well  in  jilaces. 
The  clianucl  at  those  two  cainps  runs  with  tlio  diviilo. 

I'loasaiit  Flat,  a  (luarter  of  a  mile  furthor  up,  h;is  a  channel  vunnini;-  across. 

^MoKXlXG  Star. — Throe  Inmdrod  yards  south  of  Iowa  Ilill,  beyond  Indian 
canon,  is  Fioaynno  divide,  thronsfh  which  runs  the  Blue  load,  on  which  is  located 
the  Morninijf  Star  claim,  which  has  1,200  feet  front,  and  extendt;  4,000  foot  to 
the  middle  of  the  ridge.  The  channel  here  appears  to  have  l>ccn  loO  or  200  feet 
wide.  The  jMornin<>'  Star  tunnel  was  commenced  in  ISoG,  and  no  pay  of  any 
note  was  obtained  until  18Go,  by  which  time  a  distance  of  1,800  foot  had  been 
nm  and  845,000  had  boon  expended.  Alter  roachiji2;"  the  cement  it  was  found 
that  the  tniniel  was  30  feet  too  lii<i"h,  and  now  tiio  dirt  has  to  be  hoisted  and  the 
water  pMm|)ed  by  hand  to  the  level  of  the  tunnel.  The  bed  rock  swells,  and 
sometimes  the  track  is  raised  six  inches  in  a  nio'ht.  Tlie  cement  varies  in  thick- 
ness from  six  inches  to  six  foot,  and  yields  $3  per  ton.  '^riie  mill  has  six  stamps, 
i^oos  by  stean),and  crushes  40  tons  in  24  hours.  Fnmi  June  to  Decend»er,  there 
is  but  half  the  needed  supply  of  water,  and  the  mill  runs  only  in  the  day-time. 
Twenty-four  men  are  employed. 

BiUB  Flat  axb  Lebanox. — Three-quarters  of  a  mile  above  the  ^Morning- 
Star  claim,  on  the  Ficaynne  divide,  the  Iowa  Hill  and  Bird  Flat  Company  have 
boon  running  a  lumicl  since  1854,  have  gone  in  1,100  feet,  have  spent  -$50,000, 
and  have  obtained  no  return  as  yet. 

The  Lebanon  Company,  at  Frospcct  Hill,  have  a  claim  which  adjoins  the  ]\Iorn- 
ing  Star  on  the  back.  They  have  been  at  work  1,3  years,  spent  $100,000,  and 
cur  a  tunnel  1,500  feet,  and  in  1866  theystru(;k  into  pay  and  crecte*!  a  10-stanip 
mill,  which  is  driven  by  a  luuxly-gurdy  wheel.     This  tunnel  is  not  low  enough. 

Gold  Rux. — On  the  Railroad  divide,  between  Bear  river  and  the  North  fork 
of  the  American,  the  Blue  lead  appears  at  Dutch  Flat,  Gold  Itun,  and  Indiana 
Hill.  The  width  of  the  lead  here  is  nearly  half  a  mile,  and  there  are  200  or 
300  feet  of  pay  gravel,  with  no  overlying  bairen  stratum.  Squires's  canon, 
which  empties  into  Boar  river,  separates  Dutch  Flat  from  Gold  Run.  The 
latt«r  did  not  obtain  a  large  supply  of  water  until  lately,  and  therefore  its  best 
claims  have  not  been  exhausted,  and  it  is  the  most  prosperous  hydraulic  caiap  in 
Calilbrnia.  Nine  thousand  inches  of  water  are  used  here,  requiring  a  payment 
of  $1,000  a  day  or  more  in  gold.  The  gravel  is  peculiarly  soft  and  there  is  great 
depth,  so  that  high  power  is  obtained,  and  more  dirt  is  washed  in  proportion  to 
the  quantity  of  water  used  than  in  any  other  large  hydraulic  district. 

GiiAVEL  at  Gold  Run. — The  bed  of  auriferous  gravel  at  Gold  Run  is  about 
350  feet  deep,  of  whicli  only  about  150  feet  have  l)een  worked  so  far.  The 
sluices  are  therefore  200  feet  above  the  bed  rock.  A  shaft  was  sunk  185  feet 
deep  in  Fotato  ravine  to  the  bed  rock,  and  the  bottom  of  that  ravine  is  below 
the  level  of  most  of  the  sluices.  It  is  to  be  presumed  that  the  bed  rock  in  that 
shaft  is  no  lower  than  elsewhere  in  the  channel.  Fay  gravel  was  found  all  the 
way  down,  and  it  was  soft  until  within  six  or  eight  feet  of  the  bottom.  This 
vast  bed  of  gravel  two  miles  long,  half  a  mile  Avido,  and  250  feet  deej),  cannot 
bo  washed  away  for  many  years. 

Outlet. — Although  the  caaon  of  tlie  north  fork  of  the  American  river  is  at 
least  2,500  feet  deep,  yet  it  is  two  miles  distant  JVom  Gold  Run,  and  the  tailings 
iinist  run  into  Caficm  creek,  which  near  the  (daims  is  only  150  or  175  feet  IjoIow 
their  levels.  Several  claims  have  been  compelled  to  stop  work  because  they  no 
longer  have  any  outlet. 

An  outlet  must  be  obtained  200  feet  deeper  than  Canon  creek,  and  it  must 
be  had  without  waiting  for  the  gradual  washing  out  of  the  Blue  Lead  chamiol 
from  the  cauon  of  the  north  fork  of  the  American  river.  That  outlet  will  be 
through  a  tunnel  about  a  mile  long,  and  from  this  tunnel  shafts  will  run  up  to 
the  various  claims.  It  Avill  be  very  costly,  but  on  the  other  hand  it  will  yield 
an  immense  retmii. 


1  02  RESOURCES    OF  •  STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

Facilities  for  PirrNTr. — There  is  no  prettier  hydraulic  washing  than  that 
at  Gohl  Hun.  The  gravel  is  ver\-  soft,  it  is  deep,  water  is  al)undant  with  a  high 
pressure,  the  claims  are  large,  and  there  is  no  superincumbent  Itxyer  of  haiTcn 
matter.  In  proportion  to  the  amount  of  work  done  fewer  men  arc  employed  at 
(_}old  Run  than  at  any  other  camp  in  the  State.  At  Smarts\-ille  much  time  is 
spent  in  l>lasting ;  at  La  Porte,  in  paddling ;  at  Dutch  Flat,  in  attending  to 
large  boulders ;  but  none  here.  -Two  men  are  sufficient  here  to  do  all  the  work 
in  a  claim  that  uses  300  inches  of  water.  As  an  inch  of  water  is  etpial  to  a  sup- 
ply of  145  pounds  perminute,  or  8,700  pounds  per  hour,  or  102.900  pounds  (51 
tons)  in  12  hours,  so  it  follows  that  300  inches  supplies  15,000  tons  in  a 
day ;  and  as  the  water  carries  off  at  least  one-tenth — the  ordinary  calculation  is 
one-fifth — of  its  bulk  of  earthy  matter,  it  follows  that  two  men  wash  1,500  tons 
at  Gold  Run  in  12  hours,  or  750  tons  each.  It  is  a  common  saying  at  Dutch 
Flat  that  there  three  pipes  are  retpiired  to  break  down  as  much  gravel  as  the 
water  of  one  can  wash  away,  but  in  Gold  Run  one  pipe  will  break  down  as  much 
as  three  can  wash  away.  This  is  an  exaggeration  when  stated  as  a  general  prin- 
ciple, though  it  has  been  true  in  some  instances. 

Canon  Ckeek. — Canon  creek  runs  from  Gold  Run  along  the  eastern  border  of 
the  Blue  Lead  3i  miles  down  to  Indiana  Hill,  where  it  empties  into  the  north  fork 
of  the  American  river.  This  creek  furnishes  the  outlet  for  many  of  the  claims. 
The  original  bed  of  the  creek  was  in  general  350  feet  below  the  surface  of  the 
lead,  (ir  ''  gravel  range,"  as  it  is  also  called,  but  the  bed  has  been  in  some  places 
filled  up  as  much  as  fifty  feet  with  gravel.  • 

Watei!.— Piping  was  commenced  at  Indiana  Hill  on  a  small  scale  in  1857, 
Avith  400  inches,  supplied  in  the  late  winter  and  earl}^  spring  by  a  ditch  from 
Cauon  creek.  Foin-  years  later  the  Dutch  Flat  ditch  brought  to  Gold  Run  800 
inches,  which  ran  for  six  or  seven  months,  and  have  since  been  doubled;  and 
the  Bear  River  ditch  brought  in  800  more;  and  in  18G4  the  South  Yuba  ditch 
T)rought  in  2,500  inches.  The  demand  for  Avater  has  alwaj-s  exceeded  the  sup- 
])1\',  and  as  the  supply  increased  so  did  the  amount  of  work  and  of  production. 
Gohl  Run  prodjiced  $150,000,  in  18G5;  $300,000  in  1866;  and  the  yielcL  for 
1867  is  estimated  at  $500,000.  The  customary  price  for  water  is  12^  cents  per 
inch  for  12  hours,  and  20  cents  for  24  hours. 

Squire's  Canox  Claims. — On  the  southern  lode  of  Squire's  canon,  in  the 
Gold  Run  district,  are  the  following  claims,  commencing  at  the  east : 

Frost  &  Co.  began  work  in  1865,  wash  through  an  open  cut,  use  300  inches 
of  water,  and  usually  run  in  day-time  only,  though  they  have  run  night  and 
day  at  times. 

W.  H.  Kinder  began  work  in  1SG6,  uses  300  inches  of  water,  washes  through 
an  open  cut,  and  runs  in  'da^'-time  only. 

Wentworth  &  Co.  began  work  in  1  SCO,  use  300  inches  of  water  night  and  day, 
and  wash  through  an  open  cut. 

A.  Bell  &  Co.  are  runnin"-  a  bed  rock  tunnel,  and  have  not  commenced 
waslnng. 

Wolcott  &  Co.  began  Avork  in  1867,  and  the  claim  was  sold  in  June  for 
$3,500.  They  use  300  inches  of  water  in  daj'light  only,  and  wash  tlu'ough  an 
open  cut,  but  intend  to  cut  a  tunnel. 

The  Bailey  claim,  consisting  of  21  claims,  each  100  l)y  200  feet,  has  not  been 
opened,  and  no  Avork  is  being  dom\ 

Crader  &:  Co.  began  in  1S67,  and  use  175  inches  day  and  night. 

Canon  Creek  Claim. — The  claims  Avhich  have  their  outlet  nito  Canon  creek 
are  the  folhnving,  near  the  head  of  S(piire's  canon  : 

The  Rock  Company  optnied  their  claim  in  1866,  and  used  250  inches  of  Awater, 
nmning  day  and  night,  'i'hey  are  not  piping  now,  but  are  preparing  to  lay  a 
long  pipe  so  as  to  luwe  a  lieaA-y  jn-essure  for  1868. 

Hughes  «&  Co.  opened  their  claim  in  1866,  but  are  not  at  Avork  noAV. 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  103 

A.  S.  Benton  ojuMicil  his  claim  in  1SG7,  and  uses  300  iuclics  of  watur  hy  day- 
liijlit  only. 

Tlio  liarkncss  claim  lias  been  worked  liy  sluice  and  pipe  for  10  years,  is  now 
takini,^  GaO  iiiclies  of  water  day  and  ni^-bt,  and  drainiii*,^  througli  an  open  cut. 

Indiind  Ilarkness  is  the  claim  of  Ilalsey  &  Co.,  OOW  feet  long  by  500  wide, 
which  cannot  be  worked  until  an  outlet  is  obtained  tlirough  the  claim  in  front. 
A  fourth  interest  was  olFered  for  sale  in  last  February  fur  $2,000,  but  no  buyer 
apjteared.     It  would  have  found  ready  sale  if  there  had  been  an  outlet. 

Next  to  Ilarkness,  on  Canon  creek,  is  the  claim  of  Godin<^  &  Co.,  who  have 
worked  off  the  top  of  their  claim  as  low  as  they  can  go,  and  are  now  waiting  for 
a  deeper  outlet. 

The  claim  of  Benton  &  Co.,  adjoining,  is  in  a  similar  condition. 

The  Bay  State  claim  was  opened  in  1857,  and  has  been  worked  steadily  since 
whenever  water  could  be  had.  In  186G  it  used  750  inches  day  and  night;  this 
year  it  nsed  350.  The  profit  never  has  been  large,  though  the  gross  yield 
iias  been  8150,000,  and  the  yield  for  186G  -$37,000. 

The  claim  of  A.  Beel  is  in  the  same  condition  as  that  of  Coding. 

GoosLi^'G  Batixe  Claims. — Goosling  &  Co.  have  been  at  work  since  1854. 
A  ravine  nms  down  through  the  middle  of  the  claim,  and  they  are  piping  on 
each  side,  using  300  inches  day  and  night  on  one  side,  and  300  inches  in  day- 
time only  on  the  other.     Goosling  ravine  is  in  this  claim. 

Prindle  &  Co.  opened  their  claim  in  18G4,  and  used  275  inches  of  water  day 
and  night.  "Work  has  been  closed  for  this  season  because  the  pipe  has  advanced 
to  within  50  feet  of  a  ditch,  the  proprietors  of  which  have  warned  the  claim 
owners  that  they  will  be  held  resixmsible  for  an}'  damage  to  the  ditch.  Four 
ditches  cross  this  claim.    The  outlet  is  through  Goosling's  ravine. 

The  Uncle  Abe  claim,  behind  Goosling,  is  irregidar  in  shape,  but  is  about 
1,000  feet  long  l)y  850  feet  wide.  It  was  opened  in  1SG7,  and  in  April,  May, 
and  June,  yielded  $12,000.  It  was  sold  in  May  for  $G,000.  The  consumption 
of  water  is  275  inches  day  and  night. 

Lp  WEK  Canon  Creek  Claims. — The  claim  of  Winters  &  Co.  has  been  worked 
three  years,  and  is  in  the  same  condition  as  Coding's. 

The  Bay  State  No.  2  is  unopened.  An  offer  of  $3,000  for  the  claim  was 
refused. 

The  Hall  claim  was  worked  for  two  yeai-s,  but  is  idle  this  season  for  want  of 
an  outlet. 

The  claim  of  Taylor,  ^Moore  &  Co.  is  about  1,000  feet  square,  was  worked  on 
a  small  scale  from  1S53  till  18G5,  and  for  the  last  two  years  has  been  piping  on 
a  large  scale.  It  was  sold  this  year  for  $11,000.  The  yield  in  "a.  run  of  22 
days,"  as  a  run  of  11  days  day  and  nigTit  is  termed,  is  usually  between  $4,000 
and  S5,000. 

The  Chm-ch  claim  was  opened  in  1860,  and  the  yield  in  18G6  was  $27,000. 
Three-fifths  of  the  claim  were  sold  in  18G5  for  $7,000.  Of  water,  275  inches 
are  used  in  the  da\--time  only. 

The  Golden  Gate  claim  began  work  in  1858,  uses  300  inches  of  water  in  day- 
time only,  pays  well,  and  is  the  last  claim  that  tails  immediately  into  Caiiun 
creek. 

Gold  Run  Canon. — The  Gold  Run  claim  began  work  in  1859,  uses  300 
inches  of  water  in  the  day-time  onh^,  has  paid  well,  and  tails  inta  Golden  Rim 
canon,  which  is  on  the  southern  side  of  the  claim.  An  offer  of  $10,000  for  the 
claim  has  been  refused. 

Tlie  Fitzpatrick  claim,  fronting  on  Gold  Run  caiion,  has  lately  been  sold  for 
$2,100,  and  is  now  preparing  to  work  with  300  inches  of  water. 

On  the  south  side  of  Gold  Run  caiion,  and  opposite  to  the  Fitzpatrick  claim, 
is  the  Sheldon  claim,  owned  by  the  Dutch  Flat  Water  Company.  It  has  been 
worked  several  years,  but  is  idle  now. 


104        RESOUPX'Eg  OF  STATES  AND  TEREIT0EIE3 

Tlic  Ilnyck  and  IIuLhard  claim,  fronting'  on  Gold  Run  canon,  has  a  sluice 
tuiracl,  but  is  waiting  for  cheaper  v/ater,  and  doing  nothing. 

The  Home  Ticket  lias  heen  "worked  f(na-  years,  and  uses  3-50  inches  in  day- 
time.    The  gross  yield  in  May  and  June,  1867,  -was  ahout  $100  per  day. 

The  Newark  v>as  opened  in  18G3,  uses  300  inches  in  the  day-time^ and  yielded 
about  $75  gross  in  Jime,  1S67. 

Potato  li atixe. — The  following  companies  tail  into  Potato  ravine,  a  tribu- 
tary of  Canon  creek : 

JBaldwin  and  Bailey  have  been  at  work  three  years,  rising  275  inches  of  w"ater 
in  the  day-time,  and  obtaining  aljont  $'70  gross  per  day. 

The  Harris  claim  is  large  and  unopened. 

The  Fitzpatrick  claim  yields  about  $75  gross  per  day,  was  opened  in  186G, 
and  consumes  330  inches  of  water  in  day-time. 

The  Cedar  Company  have  900  by  800  feet,  began  work  in  1861,  ran  300 
inches  day  and  niglit,  and  obtain  about  $230  in  24  hours.  The  yield  in  1866 
was  $35,000,  one-half  of  it  profit. 

Stewart  and  Kinder  have  500  feet  square,  fronting  on  both  Canon  creek  and 
Potato  ravine,  but  are  not  at  Avork.  Along  Canon  creek  there  is  a  rim  rock,  so 
they  will  tail  into  Potato  ravine.     They  refused  an  ofter  of  $1,500  for  the  claim. 

The  Judd  and  Griffin  claim,  1,000  feet  square,  has  been  worked  since  1854, 
and  was  sold  in  1866  for  $3,500.  The  yield  is  about  $75  per  day,  with  270 
inches  running  twelve  hours  out  of  the  twenty-four.  To  get  drainage  an  open 
cut  was  made  GOO  or  700  feet  long  in  the  rim-rock,  and  in  one  place  40  feet  deep. 

Huyck  and  Judd  have  one  of  the  most  profitable  claims  of  the  district  on  the 
eastern  side  of  Indiana  Hill  canon,  which  empties  into  the  north  fork  of  the 
American  river.  They  have  been  at  work  since  1854,  use  275  inches  of  water 
in  the  day-time,  and  cleared  $7,000  in  1866. 

The  Hoskin  claim  adjoining  is  open,  but  is  not  worked. 

Indiana  Cement  Mill. — Mallory,  Gaylord  &  Co.  are  working  with  an  eig^lit- 
stamp  cement  mill,  driven  by  a  hurdygurdy  wheel.  Their  claim  is  the  only  one 
in  the  district  in  which  the  l>ed-rock  has  been  reached.  Their  mode  of  getting 
out  dirt  is  to  cut  a  tunnel  60  or  70  feet  on  the  bed-rock,  let  off  a  blast  of  200 
kegs  of  powder,  sluice  off  the  top  dirt,  and  run  the  cement  through  the  mill. 

Indiana  Canon  Claims. — The  following  claims  tail  into  Indiana  Hill  caiion. 

The  Hawkins  claim  was  opened  this  year,  uses  350  inches  night  and  da}',  and 
yields  $200  in  24  hours. 

The  Brink  claim  was  opened  in  1864,  but  is  not  worked  now  on  account  of 
disturbance  of  the  telegi'aph  or  flume  from  which  the  pipe  is  fed.  The  yield  was 
about  $75  per  day,  and  the  quantity  of  water  30  inches.  Work  Avill  be  resumed 
next  year. 

Stewart  and  Prindle  opened  their  claim  in  1SG7,  use  200  inches  day  and  night, 
and  take  out  about  $100  per  day. 

Moody's  Tail  Sluice. — In  Canon  creek  Moody  &  Co.  have  a  double  tail 
sluice  2,000  feet  long,  consisting  of  two  flumes,  each  eight  feet  wide  and  about 
four  feet  deep.  This  sluice  cost  $25,000.  The  lower  ])art  was  earned  away  in 
1862,  and  the  upi>er  part  was  buried  and  had  to  lie  replaced.  The  yield  was 
$10,000  in  1865,  $7,000  in  186G,  and  $3,000  in  the  first  half  of  1867.  An  ofler 
of  $11,000  for  a  third  interest  was  refused.  The  estimated  receipts  for  1867  are 
$10,000.  Sljost  of  the  cleaning  up  is  done  in  September  and  October,  when 
there  is  not  much  water  for  piping. 

KiNDEii's  Tail  Sluice. — Kiiulerand  "White  have  a  tail  sluice  in  Canon  creek, 
and  claim  the  creek  for  a  mile  and  a  half  below  JMoody  &  Co.  In  the  upper 
part  of  their  claim  they  have  two  sluices  eight  feet  wide  and  700  feet  long.  Half 
of  the  sluice  was  sold  in  1865  for  $3,000,  but  since  then  it  has  become  more 
valuable.  The  grade  is  three  inches  to  12  feet.  This  sluice  was  can-ied  away 
in  1865. 


New  ark ;}(iO 

I3ailcy  «S:.  IJiothir 275 

Fitzpatrick 300 

Biogan 300 

Total 5,250 


WEST    OF    TITE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  105 

The  following  coiupauiea  tail  into  tlio  two  tail  sluices  in  Cauon  creek: 

Compnniesi.  Inchesi.   11       Conipanios.  Inehefl. 

Rock  Crctk -^75  ||  Golden  Gate ;';oa 

Heiiton  &  Co :>r>0  l|  Home  Ticket ',lhO 

llarkiioss GdO 

liftv  State 3'>0 

Bell 300 

German GOO 

I'nelo  Abe 275 

Taylor  ct  Co 400 

Church 275 

The  Gold  Run  tail  sluice,  in  Gold  Run  canon,  is  1,500  iect  long,  six  feet 
■svido,  and  yields  $6,000  or  87,000  a  year.     It  tails  into  Canon  creek. 

Goosling  &:  Co.  have  a  tail  sluice  3,000  feet  long  in  Goosling  ravine,  and  four 
companies  tail  into  it.     Two  tail  sluices  are  buried  ^0  t)r  30  feet  deep  in  this  mine. 

Iluyck  and  Judd  have  1,000  feet  of  tail  sluice  in  Indiana  Hill  canon. 

llosKixs  Tail  Sluice. — The  Iloskins  tail  sluice  is  in  Indiana  Hill  ravine, 
which  is  so  steep  that  the  sluice  is  in  short  sections,  the  longest  24  feet,  and 
between  the  sections  the  water  pitches  down  over  steep  rocks.  There  are  in  all 
fifteen  boxes  of  main  tail  sluice,  six  or  eight  feet  wide  and  two  or  two  and  a  half 
feet  deep,  with  a  grade  of  eight  inches  to  12  feet. 

Besides  the  main  sluice  boxes  there  are  a  numl)er  of  undercurrent  boxes,  from 
six  to  nine  feet  wide,  14  incl'.es  deep,  with  a  grade  of  12  or  13  inches  tp  12  feet. 
Not  more  than  one-iifth  of  the  matter  in  the  main  sluice  gets  into  the  undercur- 
rent, passing  through  a  cast  grating  of  white  iron,  with  oj^enings  an  inch  wide, 
eight  inches  and  a  half  long,  separated  by  bars  an  inch  and  a  half  thick  on  top. 
There  are  nsually  from  600  to  1,200  inches  of  water  running  in  the  main  sluice 
and  120  in  the  nndercuiTcnt,  which  latter  catches  three  times  as  much  gold  as 
the  former,  because  the  current  is  slower  and  shallower. 

There  are  second  nndercurrents,  or  secondaries,  as  they  are  nsually  called. 
Their  grade  is  14  or  15  inches  to  the  box,  their  width  30  inches,  and  their  depth 
12.  They  take  one-fifteenth  of  the  water  of  the  nndercurreut,  and  catch  one- 
eighth  as  much  gold.  Tliey  arc  especially  serviceable  for  catching  quicksilver. 
The  spaces  in  the  gratiug  are  five  inches  long  and  three-eighths  of  an  inch  wide. 
There  are  three  boxes  of  12  feet  to  each  nndercnrrent,  and  two  to  each  second- 
ary. The  nndercniTcnts  always  pay  where  the  gold  is  fine,  and  the  secondai'ies 
are  especially  seiwiceablc  in  steep  canons. 

Dutch  Flat. — Dutch  Flat,  on  the  north  side  of  the  divide  between  Bear 
river  and  the  north  ftn'k  of  the  American  river,  and  within  half  a  mile  of  the 
line  of  the  Central  Pacific  railroad,  has  for  12  years  been  one  of  the  leading 
hydraulic  camps  of  the  State.  It  is  pleasantly  situated,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
pros})erous  tov.-nsin  the  mines,  although  the  monthly  gold  yield  was  thrice  as  great 
in  1858  as  it  is  now.  There  are  many  comfortable  homes,  most  of  the  people 
consider  themselves  pennanent  residents,  and  there  is  a  steady  increase  in  the 
number  of  families.  Dutch  Flat,  probably  alone  of  all  the  nn'ning  towns,  has 
never  been  Imrned  down,  and  only  one  house  has  been  bnrned.  -  The  shipment 
of  ffold  in  Jannarv,  1867,  Avas '  §31,600 ;  in  February,  §33,000;  in  March, 
S43":000;  in  April,  $74,000;  in  3fay,  866,000;  and  in  Jime,  §60,000.  These 
shipments  included  much  from  Gold  Run. 

Most  of  tlie  soft  gravel  that  covered  the  Blue  lead,  and  that  could  be  washed 
down  readily  with  the  pipe,  has  been  washed  awaj',  and  the  blue  cement,  which 
is  too  hard  for  the  pipe,  and  perhaps  not  rich  enough  for  the  stamp,  has  l)eeu 
reached;  and  most  of  the  claims  are  now  lying  idle  in  the  hope  that  some  other 
nM)de  will  be  devised  of  working  theui. 

The  i)rincipal  clauns  at  Dutch  Flat,  commencing  on  Bear  river,  at  the  north- 
eastern corner  of  the  district,  are  the  f<illowing: 

PncENix  A^•D  Ajsiekicax. — The  Plieenix,  900  feet  long  by  300  wide,  was 


106  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

opened  in  1857  and  -uas  worked  until  1865,  with  an  average  yield  of  $150  and 
an  expense  of  $60  per  day.  All  the  soft  gravel  has  been  washed  and  the  hard 
cement  remains.     The  depth  to  the  bed  rock  is  not  known. 

The  American,  900  feet  long  by  400  feet  wide,  was  opened  in  1857,  and  was 
worked  for  six  years  as  a  hydraulic  claim,  yielding  $150  per  day.  It  will  not 
pay  now  for  piping,  and  Chinamen  are  sluicing  in  it. 

Buck:eye. — The  Buckeye  was  opened  as  a  sluicing  claim  in  1854,  and  it  was 
piped  from  1857  till  1867,  and  may  be  regarded  as  worked  out  for  the  hj^draulic 
process.  It  has  used  250  inches  of  water  and  employed  from  four  to  sis  men. 
An  incline  was  sunk  250  feet  below  the  level  of  the  present  workings  to  the 
bed  rock,  and  the  cement  taken  out  in  going  do-wn  yielded  $8  to  the  car-load, 
and  not  more  than  one-third  of  the  gold  was  washed  out.  If  this  statement  be 
correct,  and  if  the  cement  found  in  the  incline  was  a  fair  average  of  all  in  the 
claim,  the  Buckeye  is  an  extremely  valuable  piece  of  property. 

Dutch  Flat  and  Queex  City.— The  Dutch  Flat,  1,800  by  900  feet,  was 
opened  in  1857,  and  is  still  at  work  with  12  men.  The  yield  is  fi-om  $200  to 
$400  per  day.  The  soft  gravel  will  last  another  season.  The  company  com- 
menced work  in  1854,  cutting  a  tunnel  for  drainage,  but  after  going  450  feet  and 
spending  $40,000  on  it,  they  gave  it  up.  Some  of  the  rock  was  so  hard  that 
they  paid  $85  50  per  lineal  foot. 

TLe  Queen  City,  900  by  250  feet,  began  piping  in  1858,  and  -^nll  exhaust  its 
soft  gravel  this  j-ear.  Four  men  are  employed ;  the  yield,  is  $130  to  $150  per 
day,  and  200  or  250  inches  of  water  are  used. 

Bear  River  ai^d  Teaff. — The  Bear  River  claim,  900  by  400,  was  opened 
in  1856,  and  will  be  exhausted,  so  far  as  the  soft  gravel  is  concerned,  this  year. 
Four  men  are  employed,  250  inches  of  water  are  used,  and  the  yield  is  $150  per 
day. 

TeaflF's  claim,  900  by  310  feet  on  one  side  of  the  hill,  and  1,500  by  900  on 
the  other  side,  was  opened  as  a  pipe  claim  in  1855,  and  the  soft  gravel  will  be 
worked  out  next  year.  From  1857  to  1800  125  inches  of  water  were  used,  and 
the  average  yield  was  $100  per  day.  About  80  feet  have  been  washed  away 
from  nearl}^  the  entire  area  of  the  claim.  The  amo\jnt  of  water  used  is  250  inches, 
at  an  expense  of  $30  per  day ;  four  men  are  employed  at  $3  each ;  the  total 
expenses  are  about  $50  per  day,  and  the  yield  $150.  The  head  of  water  for 
piping  is  120  feet. 

From  Bostox  to  Yankee. — Tlie  Boston  claim,  900  by  450  feet,  was  opened 
as  a  hydraulic  claim  in  1855,  and  the  soft  gravel  will  all  be  washed  away  this 
year.  Four  men  are  employed,  250  inches  of  water  are  purchased,  and  the  yield 
is  $150  per  day. 

The  Gray  Eagle,  900  by  300  feet,  was  piped  from  1858  till  this  year,  and 
now  the  soft  gravel  has  all  disappeared.  The  yield  was  $150  per  day,  and  250 
or  300  inches  were  used  per  day. 

The  North  Star  was  worked  as  a  drift  claim  for  a  long  time,  and  then  piped. 
The  soft  gravel  is  all  gone,  and  the  claim  is  lying  idle. 

The  Union  is  working,  and  paying  good  wages  to  two  men. 

The  Yankee,  at  the  junction  of  Dutch  Flat  ravine  with  Bear  river,  has  worked 
off  nearly  all  the  soft  gravel.  In  1858  and  1859  it  was  worked  as  a  drift  claim 
by  10  men,  and  it  yielded  250  ounces  (about  $4,500)  per  month. 

Drift  Claims. — The  Blue  Cut  struck  pay  in  1856  as  a  drift  claim,  and  paid 
ver}'-  high  for  a  time,  and  now  pays  $400  per  month.  Fom-  men  are  employed, 
and  the  claim  is  still  worked  by  drifting. 

The  Potosi,  a  drift  claim,  pays  200  ounces  per  month  to  12  men  drifting  day 
and  night. 

The  Wliynot  Company  is  worked  as  a  drifting  claim ;  yield  not  ascertained. 

The  Badger  lias  22  feet  of  drifting  dirt,  and  has  been  very  rich,  but  is  working 
now  on  a  small  scale.     In  four  yeai'S  it  paid  $192,000  of  dividends 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  107 

"Mill  CLAiiis. — The  Oliio  cluiin  has  a  loiir-stainp  cement  mill,  wliicli  stai-teil 
tbis  year  ami  pays  well.  The  cement  is  hauled  out  with  a  mule.  The  soft 
gravel  has  been  sluiced  oft'  from  the  top. 

The  erection  of  a  mill  has  been  commenced  on  the  Baker  claim. 

The  Gennan  Com[)auy  intend  to  build  a  mill. 

Othek  Claims. — The  L)eep  Shaft  claim  is  the  property  of  the  Water  Com- 
pan}',  and  is  worked  l)y  the  hydraulic  process,  but  the  supply  of  water  is  iiTCgu- 
lar.     When  there  are  250  inches  of  water  the  yield  is  about  SloO  per  day. 

The  L)wa  claim  uses  250  inches,  and  pays  $150  ])er  day,  but  did  not  pay  more 
than  $100  previous  to  ISGG.     The  soft  gravel  will  be  worked  out  next  year. 

The  North  Star  yielded  $150  per  day  for  four  or  five  years,  but  the  soft  gravel 
is  all  gone  now. 

Between  Dutch  Flat  Ravine  and  Squire's  Canon  are  a  number  of  hydraulic 
claims  that  have  been  worked  many  years,  and  have  paid  very  little  more  than 
expenses. 

Teaff's  Tail  Sluice. — James  Teaff,  who  o\\tis  one  of  the  piping  claims  at 
Dutch  Flat,  also  owns  a  tail  sluice — probably  the  largest  one  in  the  State.  The 
total  length  is  5,500  feet ;  2,500  feet  long,  five  and  a  half  feet  wide,  and  26  inches 
deep,  in  a  tunnel,  and  3,000  feet  long  and  six  feet  wide  outside.  The  construc- 
tion of  the  tunnel  and  sluice  cost  $55,000  in  money  and  four  years' time,  and  was 
completed  in  1SG3.  The  Teaft",  Dutch  Flat,  Queen  City,  Bear  River,  Franklin, 
Boston,  and  Iowa  companies,  with  1,550  inches  of  water,  tail  into  it.  It  is 
paved  all  the  way  with  boulders  14  inches  deep.  The  grade  is  10  inches  to  12 
feet,  but  eight  inches  would  have  been  better.  At  intervals  of  120  feet  there  are 
falls  or  dumps  two  feet  and  a  half  high  in  the  tunnel  and  five  feet  high  outside. 
These  dumps  are  of  great  service  in  breaking  up  pieces  of  cement. 

Boulders  10  and  15  inches  in  diameter  are  constantly  rushing  through  the  sluice, 
and  some  of  20  inches  frequently  pass.  The  great  weight  of  these  boulders 
rushing  along  at  a  speed  of  nearly  10  miles  an  hour  tries  the  sluice  severely, 
and  the  rock  bottom  is  alwaj-s  worn  down  about  two  inches  in  three  months, 
and  half  of  the  paving  boulders  are  broken  so  as  to  be  unfit  for  further  use. 

The  rock  for  the  paving  is  ol>tained  by  putting  an  iron  grate  in  a  sloping  posi- 
tion in  the  sluice.  The  bars  of  the  grate  are  an  inch  and  a  half  thick  and  eight 
inches  apart,  so  everything  small  passes  through.  A  Chinaman  stands  by  the 
grate,  examines  every  boulder  that  stops,  lays  the  good  ones  on  one  side,  and 
throws  the  others  over. 

Every  evening  15  or  20  pounds  of  quicksilver  are  put  into  the  sluice,  and  the 
largest  amount  in  the  sluice  at  one  time  is  900  pounds.  The  owner  of  the 
sluice  never  buys  an}-  cpiicksilver,  but  has  it  to  sell,  for  he  catches  more  than  he 
puts  in.  lie  cleans  up  several  sections — a  section  is  between  two  dumps — between 
Saturday  night  and  Monday  morning,  which  time  he  has  for  cleaning  up  under 
a  contract  with  the  companies.  Six  men  are  employed  20  hours — 12  days'  work — 
in  cleaning  up  a  section  of  ten  boxes  or  120  feet,  and  the  expense,  including 
new  stone  and  repairing,  is  $3  75  per  box.  The  yield  is  nsually  $25  per  box, 
or  $250  per  section,  at  a  clean  up,  and  there  are  41G  boxes  in  the  sluice.  Three 
men  ai'e  constantly  employed  in  looking  after  the  sluice,  and  extra  men  are 
engaged  to  clean  up. 

The  companies  which  tail  into  the  tunnel  have  about  600  feet  of  their  own 
sluices. 

DiiAiXAGE  OF  BeaFv  River. — Bear  river,  opposite  to  Dutch  Flat,  is  70  feet 
deep,  with  tailings,  the  mass  of  which  extends  for  some  miles  above  and  many 
below.  It  has  been  proposed  to  cut  a  tunnel  three  miles  long  from  Bear  river  at 
Secret  ravine  through  the  railroad  divide  to  the  north  fork  of  the  American  river, 
the  bed  of  which  is  1,000  feet  lower  than  that  of  Bear  river.  It  is  supposed  that 
an  immense  profit  would  be  derived  from  such  an  enterprise,  though  the  cost  of 
making  a  tunnel  for  that  length  11  feet  wide  and  eight  feet  high,  at  $-10  per  foot, 


108  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

would  be  about  $630,000.  The  bed  of  Bear  river,  opposite  Dutch  Flat,  uever 
was  flumcd,  and  is  probably  quite  rich.  The  present  deposit  of  tailings  began  to 
ficcumulate  in  1858  or  1859.  They  lise  about  two  feet  per  month  from  February 
till  September,  and  then  the  floods  of  winter  cany  away  a  considerable  portion  of 
tliem. 

South  Placer  Quartz  Regulations. — Tliere  is  no  general  quartz  regula- 
tion for  Placer  county ;  each  district  has  its  o^vn  rules. 

The  following  are  the  main  provisions  of  the  South  Placer  quartz  regulations : 

Any  person  may  take  up  and  pre-empt  one  claim  of  200  feet  in  lenjrth  on  the  lode  by  200 
feet  in  width,  (following  tlie  dip  of  the  lode,)  with  all  dips,  spurs,  angles,  and  courses,  with 
all  precious  metals  therein  contained.  Such  claims  shall  be  valid  by  the  locator's  posting 
one  notice  thereupon,  naming  the  number  of  feet  claimed  each  way  from  said  notice  ;  desig-, 
rating,  if  possible,  by  croppings,  the  general  direction  of  said  lude,  but  if  no  croppings  are 
visible,  then  by  the  words  easterly,  westerly,  northerly,  or  southerly,  as  the  case  maybe  ;  but 
in  no  case  shall  a  location  of  a  claim  be  invalid  by  reason  of  any  misapprehensii  n  in  regard 
to  the  direction  of  said  lode.  Notices  of  locations  shall  be  put  upon  the  records  of  this 
district,  together  with  filing  a  copy  of  the  same  with  the  recorder,  which  shall  give  as  full  a 
description  as  possible  of  the  claim. 

All  claims  shall  be  recorded  as  above  specified  within  20  days  from  the  date  of  their  notice. 

All  claims  in  this  district  shall  bo  held  by  working  the  same,  the  work  to 
amount  to  at  least  one  full  day's  work  to  each  claim  in  each  company  in  every 
month  in  good  faith ;  and  after  the  sum  of  $50  to  each  name  in  such  company  shall 
liave  been  expended  upon  the  claim,  on  application  to  the  recorder  it  shall  be  his 
duty  to  go  and  see  the  work,  and  if  he  finds  that  the  said  amount  of  work  or 
money  has  been  expended  as  before  stated,  he  shall  give  to  the  parties  o"\\ming 
or  their  representatives  a  certificate  stating  that  the  said  amount  of  work  and 
money  has  been  expended,  which  entitles  the  owners  to  lay  over  and  suspend 
work  for  the  tenu  of  six  months  from  the  date  of  said  application,  and  the  claim 
will  not  be  considered  forfeited  until  after  the  said  six  months  has  expired. 

Canada  IItll  and  Lone  Stak  Kicgulations. — The  (piartz  regulations  of 
Canada  Hill  allow  200  feet  on  the  lode  to  each  person,  and  50  feet  on  each  side, 
and  10  feet  on  every  cross-lode;  and  require  live  days'  work  per  month  for  each 
individual  claim  or  share. 

In  the  Lone  Star  district,  west  of  Auburn,  the  regulations  allow  200  feet  to  each 
person,  and  300  feet  on  each  side.  Acompauy's  claim  may  be  held  for  the  first 
year  by  doing  work  of  tlic  value  of  $25  within  60  days  after  the  location ;  and 
an  equal  amount  of  work  will  hold  it  for  any  subsequent  year. 

Green  Emigrant. — Th.e  Creen  Emigrant  mine,  three  miles  northwest  from 
Auburn,  is  1,000  feet  long  on  a  vein  which  appears  to  nui  north  65°  west,  but 
there  are  a  nunil)er  of  veins  that  seem  to  concentrate  at  the  top  of  the  hill,  in 
which  a  rich  deposit  has  been  found. 

The  vein  which  rniis  through  the  hill  is  called  the  Green  Emigrant,  is  three 
feet  wide,  and  dips  45°  to  the  southwest.  Tiie  foot-wall  is  serpentine  and  the 
hanging  wall  talcose  slate  and  schist.  The  vein  itself  near  the  surface  seems 
to  be  decomposed  quartz,  talcose,  and  schist.  The  middle  parallel  vein  is  IS 
inches  wide  and  nearly  vertical,  and  the  vein  matter  is  like  that  in  the  Green 
Emigrant.  The  sonliiwestern  vein  is  four  feet  and  a  half  wide,  and  dips  45° 
to  the  east.  The  vein  matter  is  the  same  as  in  the  other  two.  There  are  spaces 
of  50  feet  between  these  parallel  veins  at  the  surface,  but  it  is  supposed  that  they 
unite  150  feet  below  the  surface.  The  walls  of  the  middle  vein  and  the  hang- 
ing wall  of  the  southern  vein  are  talcose  slate  ;  and  the  foot-wall  of  the  latter 
vein  is  a  hard  rock  resembling  sienite.  A  shaft  was  sunk  10  feet  in  the  south- 
western vein,  and  the  rock  averaged  610  per  ton.  The  mine  was  discovered  iu 
1SG4,  and  not  more  than  50  tons  have  been  crushed,  yielding  $100  per  ton.  The 
yield  for  the  first  two  years  was  $20,000,  but  the  proprietors  refuse  to  tell  what 
ithasbeen  since.  Humor,  which  probal>ly  exaggerates  grosslv,  savs  that $100,000 
have  been  taken  out  in  a  hand  mortar  in  the  first  six  mouths  of  1867.     That 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  109 

many  ricli  spocimons  have  Leon  olitained  is  in(lnliital)le.  All  tlie  work  in  tliw 
mine,  except  on  rare  oeeasions,  is  done  by  two  partners  in  it,  anti  strani^-era  are 
not  permitted  to  enter.  The  rich  deposit  is  found  in  streaks  near  the  "wallt?. 
The  mine  is  ojiened  by  a  tnnnel  22a  feet  loni^.  'J'he  mine  owners  say  the  whole 
hill  will  pay — the  rock  for  crushing  and  the  jfravel  for  wasliini^". 

The  iirst  extension  of  the  Green  Emic^rant  on  th(!  north  is  GOO  feet  long',  and 
is  beinir  ojiened  or  examined  by  cross  cuts.  ISome  auriferous  talcoso  slate  has 
been  found,  luit  so  far  no  vein. 

Monahan  &  Co.  have  2,000  feet  on  the  same  vein,  and  have  done  nothing. 

The  Wells  claim  is  2,400  feet  long',  and  the  vein  is  live  feet  wide.  There  are 
two  shafts,  one  50  and  the  other  40  feet  deep.  Forty  tons  have  been  crushed, 
and  they  yielded  $12  50  per  ton  on  an  average,  after  the  specimens  had  been 
picked  out. 

The  first  extension  soTtth  of  the  Green  Emigi-ant  is  2,000  feet  long.  A  shaft 
has  been  sunk  25  feet,  and  the  vein  is  IS  inches  wide.     The  rock  prospects  well. 

New  Yokk  axd  Empike. — The  New  York  mine,  fonnerly  known  as  the  Con- 
rad, one  mile  west  of  Auburn,  has  three  veins,  each  two  feet  w  ide,  not  more  than 
200  feet  apart. 

The  Empire  Company,  at  Ophir,  has  11,000  feet  of  claims  on  various  veins, 
and  is  working  in  a  shaft  35  feet  deep,  in  a  vein  two  feet  wide.  The  mill 
has  10  stamps,  and  began  to  run  in  March  of  this  year.  The  average  yield  is 
S8  per  ton.  exclusive  of  the  sulphurets,  which  are  not  saved.  An  experiment  was 
made  in  this  mill  of  working  the  float  quartz,  which  covers  the  whole  country 
near  Ophir,  but  it  did  not  pay.  The  working  vein  is  in  granite  and  runs  north 
and  south.     The  mill  was  burned  down  in  July,  after  it  was  visited. 

Schxabl::. — The  Julianne  or  Schuablc  mine,  on  Jenny  Lind  Flat,  near 
Ophir,  is  2,000  feet  long  on  a  V(>in  two  and  a  half  feet  wide,  running  north  and 
south  in  granite,  and  dipping  S0°  to  the  east,  A  shaft  has  been  sunk  105  feet, 
and  drifts  have  been  run  50  feet  below  the  surface,  1,200  feet  on  the  vein,  in  pay 
all  the  way.  The  pay  is  evenly  distributed  thrcugli  the  vein,  and  the  average 
yield  of  free  gold,  as  reported  l)y  the  proprietor,  is  86  per  ton;  but  the  general 
impression  in  the  neighborhood  is  that  the  mine  is  cpiite  valuable.  The  expense 
for  stopping  out  is  62  per  ton,  and  the  total  expense  $4.  The  croppings  have 
I)aid  for  2,()00  feet  on  the  surface.  The  rock  contains  seven  per  cent,  of  sulphu- 
rets, which  assay  §147  per  ton,  or  $10  per  ton  of  rock.  There  is  a  live-stamp 
'tnill  which  has  been  running  for  two  years  and  a  half,  working  25  or  30  tons 
per  week. 

Walter  axd  St.  LA■WRE^X'E. — The  Walter  mine,  900  feet,  at  Ilamberg 
Flat,  is  on  a  vein  which  runs  northwest  and  southeast,  averages  18  inches 
in  thickness,  and  dips  80°  to  the  southwest,  A  shaft  has  been  sunk  45  feet, 
and  drifts  have  been  run  48  feet  on  the  vein  in  pay  rock  all  the  way.  There  is 
slate  wall  on  both  sides,  but  in  some  places  the  granite  comes  to  the  west  wall. 
Some  very  rich  specimens  have  been  found.  The  mine  has  no  mill.  Twenty 
tons  have  been  crushed,  and  the  yield  was  $13  per  ton. 

The  St.  Lawrence  Company  has  three  claims.  The  St.  Lawrence  vein,  on 
■which  they  are  working,  runs  northeast  and  southwest,  dips  southeast  G5°,  and 
is  20  inches  wide.  The  claim  on  this  vein  is  1,400  feet  long.  A  shaft  has 
been  sunk  75  feet,  and  drifts  have  been  run  85  feet  in  pay  all  the  way.  The 
walls  are  granite,  with  a  slaty  gouge  about  an  inch  thick  on  each  side.  The 
Gurtace  was  worked  with  a  i)rolit  by  ^Mexicans  for  many  years.  The  St.  Lawrence 
claim  on  the  Boulder  vein  is  2,400  feet  long.  'J'he  vein  is  three  and  a  half  feet 
wide,  and  has  the  same  course,  dip,  and  walls  as  the  St.  Lawrence.  A  shaft  has 
been  sunk  75  feet,  and  drifts  have  been  run  75  feet.  An  assay  of  the  sulphurets 
shows  $138  gold  and  $158  silver  per  ton.  An  assay  of  dry  slum  showed  $19 
gold  and  $4G  silver  per  ton. 

GoLDEX  Rule. — The  Golden  Rule  Company,  of  Sacramento,  (to  be  distin- 


110  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

guished  from  tte  Golden  Ride  Company  of  San  Francisco,  wliich  has  a  valuable 
mine  on  the  Mother  lode  in  Tuolumne  county,)  has  claims,  each  2,000  feet  long, 
on  three  parallel  veins  nine  miles  south-southwest  of  Auburn.  The  eastern  vein 
is  three  feet  thick,  and  has  been  opened  by  a  shaft  250  feet  deep  and  drifts  160 
feet  long  on  the  vein,  all  the  way  in  rock  that  averages  S12  to  the  ton.  The 
middle  vein  is  two  feet  thick,  and  the  rock  averages  $8.  This  is  100  feet 
from  the  eastern  vein,  has  been  reached  by  a  cross-drift  from  it,  and  a  drift  in 
the  vein  has  been  run  60  feet.  The  western  vein  is  60  feet  distant,  if?  fifteen 
inches  wide,  and  has  been  opened  to  a  depth  of  75  feet  by  a  shaft,  and  to  a  length 
of  50  feet  by  drifts.  The  eastern  and  middle  veins  show  quartz  of  the  same 
quality;  the  western  has  a  bluish  hard  quartz,  containing  more  free  gold  than 
the  others,  which  have  white  quartz  and  sulphurets.  A  20-stamp  mill  is  going 
up,  and  also  a  reverberatory  furnace,  with  a  capacity  to  roast  a  ton  at  a  charge. 
The  sulphurets  are  to  be  concentrated  with  Hungerford's  concentrator.  There  is 
a  75-horse  power  steam  engine  and  steam  hoisting  works.  For  hoisting,  a  flat 
wire  rope  is  used. 

Stewart's  Flat,  American  Bae,  aistd  Damascus. — Stewart's  Flat  mine, 
1,350  feet  iong,  is  on  a  vein  two  and  a  half  feet  ■wide,  running  north-northeast 
and  south-southwest,  in  granite  walls.  A  shaft  has  been  sunk  120  feet,  and 
diifts  have  been  run  380  feet  on  the  vein  in  pay  all  the  way.  The  average 
yield  is  615  per  ton.  The  mine  was  worked  from  1862  to  1864,  and  was  then 
left  idle  till  this  spinng,  when  work  was  resumed.     There  is  a  five-stamp  mill. 

At  American  Bar,  two  miles  below  Michigan  Bluff,  a  quartz  mill  is  being  built. 

The  Damascus  quartz  mine,  at  Damascus,  was  worked  for  three  years,  paying 
a  profit  i^art  of  the  time,  and  has  been  idle  for  the  last  three  years.  The  vein  Ih 
3  2  feet  wide  and  the  mill  has  five  stamps. 

Ked  Stone. — The  Red  Stone,  10  miles  north  of  Dutch  Flat,  on  the  north 
branch  of  the  north  fork  of  the  American  river,  is  2,400  feet  long,  on  a  vein  which 
runs  northwest  and  southeast,  and  is  five  and  a  half  feet  wide,  between  granite 
and  talcose  slate,  A  depth  of  165  feet  has  been  reached,  and  drifts  have  been 
mn  30  feet  in  the  vein.  The  rock,  so  far  as  examined,  is  very  rich.  A  four- 
stamp  mill  has  been  running,  and  an  IS-stamp  mill  is  now  in  the  course  of 
erection. 

There  is  a  mill  of  two  stamps  erected  in  Bear  Valley,  for  the  puiiwse  of  pros- 
pecting the  Champion  and  the  Blue  Belle  lodes,  both  of  which  yield  excellent 
quartz. 

Canada  Hill. — Canada  Hill,  on  the  Forest  Hill  ridge,  10  miles  west  of 
the  sunnnit,  has  a  ntnnber  of  quartz  lodes,  some  of  which  are  very  promising  at 
the  surface.  The  gulches  about  the  hill  are  full  of  rough  gold  and  gold-bearing 
quartz.  Most  of  the  miners  there  ai'c  ]\Icxicans.  The  Secret  mill,  built  four 
years  ago,  ran  two  years  and  is  now  standing  idle. 

The  13uena  Vista  Company  are  opening  a  quartz  claim. 

Bald  Mountain,  two  miles  east  of  Canada  Hill,  is  covered  with  float-quartz, 
and  many  of  the  pieces  contain  specks  of  gold  plainly  visible.  There  has  been 
much  prospecting  for  lodes,  but  none  of  any  size  have  been  found. 

Hakpendixg  !Mine. — The  Gold  Quarry  Company's  property,  familiarly 
known  as  the  Banker  or  Ilaqiending  mine,  is  situated  near  Lincoln,  on  a  deposit 
similar  to  that  of  Quail  Hill,  in  Calaveras  county.  The  ores  are  delivered  by 
contract  at  40  cents  per  ton.  A  40-stamp  mill  is  at  work,  crushing  about  five 
.ons  daily  to  the  stamp.  The  labor  is  principally  Chinese.  The  estimated  cost 
of  the  entire  extraction  and  treatment  is  within  $1  per  ton. 

Professor  Silliuian,  in  a  paper  on  the  Hai-})ending  and  Quail  Hill  deposits. 

says: 

Accompanying  the  entire  mass  of  decomposition  at  both  localities,  occur  both  pold  and 
silver,  disseminated  with  remarkable  uniformity  iu  all  parts  of  the  ore  ground.  At  Whiskey 
Hill  films  of  metallic  silver  are  visible  upon  the  talcose  masses,  stained  green  by  malachite 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  Ill 

or  chrysocollrt.  Tho  pold  is  rarely  seen  in  situ,  being  mostly  obscured  by  the  very  nisfy 
and  liiglily-stiiined  chnnieter  of  tlie  tissociatod  materials.  But  it  is  rare  that,  on  wnsliinjT  n 
small  nuantity  of  any  of  tho  contents  of  these  great  deposits,  gold  is  not  found  in  angular 
grains  or  small  ragged  masses,  from  the  size  of  a  few  grains'  weight  to  impalpable  dust. 
Nuggets  of  several  pennyweights  occur  occasionally.  This  gold  has  (Evidently  accompanied 
the  sulphuri'ts  and  been  left  in  its  original  position  and  condition  liy  their  deconn)osition. 
There  can  bo  little  doubt  that  the  gold  of  the  gulches  adjoining  these  deposits  has  been 
derived  from  them.  At  Whiskey  Hill  tho  gulch  gold  ceases  to  bo  (bund  as  soon  as  the  limits 
of  this  deposit  are  passed;  and  the  same  is  true  at  Quail  Hill.  Tho  occurrence  of  deposit.s 
of  ibis  nature  throughotU  the  range  of  the  foot  hills  seems  to  offer  the  best  solution  whicJi  haa 
suggested  itself  of  the  origin  of  tho  placer  gold,  which  is  found  in  situations  so  far  removed 
from  tho  gold  belt  of  the  upper  sierras,  and  away  from  sources  usually  recognized  .is  those 
to  which  placer  gold  may  be  referred.  #  »  »  *  » 

The  chemical  results  of  the  extensive  decomposition  of  metallic  sulphids  which  lias  iu 
former  times  occurred  at  these  localities  offer  an  interesting  problem  iu  chemical  geology. 
The  sulphur  has  been  removed  chiefly  as  sulphuric  acid,  beyond  doubt,  which  has  combined 
with  iron  and  copper  to  form  sulphates  of  those  metals.  These  have,  for  the  most  ])art,  dis- 
appeared, being  washed  out  by  the  atmospheric  waters,  and  havo  followed  tho  drainage  of 
the  country.  At  Whiskey  Hill  I  found  the  sulpliate  of  iron,  (coquimbite, )  sulphate  of  cop- 
per, (cyauosite, )  and  alum.  The  water  of  the  shaft  contains  copper  enough  to  redden  tho 
iron  tools.  #******» 

From  all  the  evidence  presented,  we  seem  justified  in  regarding  these  remarkable  metallic 
deposits  as  segregated  veins,  holding  a  pretty  uniform  and  high  tenor  of  gold  and  silver, 
associated  with  and  derived  from  the  decomposition  of  extended  masses  of  metallic  sulphur- 
ets  and  quartzoso  matter,  and  carrying,  at  times,  ores  of  copper,  the  commercial  value  of 
which  is,  however,  entirely  subordinate  to  that  of  the  precious  metals  which  are  found  to 
cliaractorize  these  veins  or  ore  channels. 


SECTIOJf  II. 

NEVADA    COUNTY. 

Xcvada  county^  California,  has  for  its  eastern  boundary  the  dividing'  line 
between  California  and  Nevada  State ;  extends  across  tlie  smnmit  and  down  the 
v.'esterly  slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  mountains  to  the  foot  hills  that  border  the 
eastern  edge  of  the  Sacramento  valley.  Its  northerly  and  southerly  boundaiies 
are  the  Middle  Yuba  and  Bear  rivers,  to  the  sources  of  those  streams;  thence 
due  east  to  the  State  line.  Its  length  from  east  to  west  is  about  65  miles,  having 
an  average  breadth  of  20,  and  containing  about  1,300  square  miles.  It  is  neai 
the  middle  of  the  great  gold  region  that  stretches  along  the  westerly  slope  of 
the  mountain  cliain,  extends  entirely  across  the  auriferous  belt,  and  in  the  last 
nineteen  years  has  produced  more  gold  than  any  tract  of  country  of  equal  extent 
in  the  world.*  Tlie  elevation  above  the  level  of  the  ocean  ranges  from  800  to 
1,000  feet,  along  the  foot  hills,  and  rises  to  8,000  and  9,000  feet  in  places  on 
the  summit,  thus  affording  a  great  variety  of  climates.  On  and  near  tho  summit 
the  ground  is  covered  with  snow  for  more  than  half  the  yeai',  while  at  the  foot 
hills  snow  and  ice  arc  seldom  seen. 

Several  streams,  which  liave  their  sources  high  up  in  the  mountains,  flow 
westerly  tlirough  the  county,  and  empty  into  the  main  Yuba  or  Bear  river.  Tlie 
most  considerable  of  these  are  the  South  Yuba,  Deer  creek,  and  G-reenhorn, 
which,  with  their  tributaries,  have  cut  deej)  channels  in  the  i)rimitivo  rock. 
Between  these  streams  and  those  forming  the  northerly  and  southerly  boundariea 

*  Professor  B.  Silliman  says  of  the  product  of  the  valley  district: 

"The  place  has  obtained  a  well-earned  celebrity  as  the  most  prosperous  of  all  the  gold 
quartz-mining  districts  in  California.  Quartz  mining  was  begun  hero  as  early  as  ISM,  and 
has  been  continued,  on  the  whole,  with  a  steadily  increasing  success,  to  tho  present  time. 

"It  is  difficult  to  obtain  exact  statistics  of  the  total  product  of  the  Grass  Valley  quarta 
mines,  but  it  is  believed  by  those  best  able  to  form  a  trustworthy  opinion  on  this  subject 
that  the  product  in  J86t)  was  probably  not  le.ss  than  .$2,(il)(i,U(X»,  w'hile  for  the  whole  period 
from  1851— say  14  years— it  was  probably  in  excess  of  §'23,000,000." 


112  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND   TERRITORIES 

of  tlie  county  are  four  main  ridges  running  nearly  at  right  angles  witli  tlie  moun- 
tain chain,  and  varying  in  length  from  25  to  40  miles.  These  ridges  are  com- 
posed, mainly  of  gravel  and  alluvial  deposits,  the  debris  fi-om  the  higher  moun- 
tains, and  matter  of  volcanic  origin.  In  places  the  bed  rock  rises  nearly  to  the 
surface,  but  in  general  the  alluvium  is  from  100  to  200  feet  in  depth,  and  at  the 
jiigher  elevations  is  covered  with  basaltic  rocks  and  a  deep  volcanic  cement. 
The  volcanic  covering  is  supposed  at  one  time  to  have  extended  over  a  much 
larger  area  than  at  present,  foiTning  extensive  table  lands,  but  in  course  of  time 
has  been  worn  away  on  the  lower  portions  and  along  the  margins  of  the  ridges, 
leaving  the  alluvium  as  the  upper  surface,  and  which  now  constitutes  the  prin- 
cipal field  for  hydraulic  mining.* 

*  Professor  Silliman,  in  an  article  published  in  Bean's  Directory  of  Nevada,  says  of  the 
general  geolog:ic<a]  character  cf  the  Grass  Valley  district : 

"  The  gold-bearing  rocks  at  this  place  are  mostly  highly  metamorphic  schists  or  sandstone 
passing  into  diorite  or  greenstone  syenite.  These  greenstones,  seemingly  crystaline,  are 
probably  only  highly  altered  sedimentary  rocks,  containing  a  large  amount  of  protoxide  of 
iron  with  sulphuret  of  iron.  In  some  parts  of  the  district  slaty  rocks  occur,  more  or  less 
talcose  or  cbloritic  in  character ;  masses  of  serpentine  also  abound,  forming  at  times  one 
wall  of  the  quartz  veins.  This  serpentine  is  probably  metamorphic  of  the  mtrgnesian  rocks 
last  named.  The  red  soil,  seen  almost  everywhere  in  the  Grass  Valley  district,  has  its  origin 
from  the  peroxidation  of  the  iron  contained  in  the  greenstones  and  diorites,  and  set  at  liberty 
by  its  decomposition. 

"The  line  of  contact  between  the  gold-bearing  and  metamorphic  rocks  of  Grass  Valley 
and  the  granites  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  is  met  on  the  road  to  the  town  of  Nevada,  about  a  half 
mile  before  coming  to  Deer  creek.  The  talcose  and  chloritic  slates  are  seen  to  the  north,  in 
the  direction  of  the  Peck  load,  and  in  the  slate  districts  of  Deer  creek. 

"The  dip  and  strike  of  the  rocks  in  the  Grass  Valley  region  is  seen  to  vary  greatly  in 
different  parts  of  the  district.  Following  the  course  of  Wolf  creek,  a  tributary  of  Bear  river, 
it  will  be  observed  that  the  valley  of  this  stream — which  is  Grass  Valley — as  well  as  of  its 
principal  branches,  follows,  in  the  main,  the  line  or  strike  of  the  rocks.  In  the  absence  of 
an  accurate  map  of  the  region  it  may  not  be  easy  to  make  this  statement  evident.  But  all 
w^ho  are  familiar  with  the  chief  mines  of  this  district  will  recall  the  fact  that  the  course  of  the 
veins  in  the  Forest  Springs  location,  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  district,  is  nearly  north 
and  south — N.  about  20° TE.— with  a  very  flat  dip  to  the  east ;  while  at  the  Eureka  niine,  on 
Eureka  Hill,  about  four  miles  to  the  northward,  the  course  of  the  vein  is  nearly  east  and 
west,  with  a  dip  to  the  south  of  about  78  degrees.  Again,  commencing  at  North  Gold  Hill 
and  following  the  course  of  the  famous  vein  which  bears  the  names  of  Gold  Hill,  Massachu- 
setts Hill,  and  New  York  Hill,  we  find  the  veins  conforming  essentially  to  the  southerly 
course  of  the  stream,  with  an  easterly  dip  The  North  Star,  on  Weimar  Hill,  has  likewise 
the  same  general  direction  of  dip.  Near  Miller's  ravine,  at  El  Dorado  mill,  Wolf  creek  makes 
a  sudden  bend  to  the  left  or  east,  leaving  the  Lone  Jack,  Illinois,  Wisconsin,  and  Allison 
Ranch  mines  to  the  west.  AH  these  last-named  mines  are  found  to  possess  a  westerly  dip, 
showing  the  existence  of  a  synclinal  axis  running  between  the  base  of  New  York  Hill  and 
the  mines  having  westerly  dips  last  named,  along  which,  probably,  the  veins  will,  if  explored 
in  depth,  be  found  'in  basin.'  The  dip  at  Lone  Jack  is  about  ^O'^  west;  at  Allison  Ranch 
it  is  about  4i>^  west.  Just  below  the  Allison  Ranch  mine  Wolf  cieek  again  makes  a  sharp 
turn  to  the  left;  nearly  at  a  right  angle,  and  then  resumes  its  former  course  with  the  same 
abruptness.  A  miic  lower  down,  where  it  strikes  the  Forest  Springs  locations,  we  find  the 
Morambagua  inclosed  in  syenitic  rocks,  dipping  at  a  very  low  angle  to  the  east ;  a  dip  is  seen 
also,  at  a  still  less  angle,  in  the  Shamrock,  yet  further  south.  There  is  probably  a  saddle  or 
anticlinal  axis  below  the  Allison  Ranch  mine,  due  to  the  elevation  of  the  syenitic  mass,  which, 
it  seems  probable,  sets  in  at  the  sharp  bend  iu  the  stream,  before  alluded  to,  and  where  the 
ravine  trail  joins  it.     The  stream  proliably  runs  pretty  nearly  in  the  basin  of  the  synclinal. 

"The  rocks  on  the  east  side  of  Wolf  creek,  and  above  Forest  Springs  locations,  dip 
westerly.  Such  is  tlic  case  at  Kate  Hayes  and  with  the  veins  on  Osburn  Hill.  The  middle 
branch  of  the  creek  sweeps  around  to  the  east,  forms  its  junction  with  the  north  fork,  and 
the  veins  explored  there  near  its  upper  waters,  as  at  Union  Hill,  the  Burdette  ground,  Mur- 
phy vein,  Lucky,  and  Cambridge,  all  dip  southwest  or  south,  conformably  to  the  Idaho  and 
Eureka,  and  at  a  pretty  high  augle.  The  Eureka  veiu,  going  west,  f^iults  in  the  Whiting 
jrround,  and,  having  previously  become  almost  vertical,  has,  west  of  the  fault,  a  northerly 
dip  at  a  high  angle.  At  tiie  Coo  ground  this  northerly  dip  is  also  found  at  an  angle  of  about 
(j;!"^.  At  Cincinnati  Hill  the  veiu  dips  southerly,  in  a  direction  exactly  opposite  to  that  of 
the  North  Star,  there  being  a  valley  b(;tweeu  the  two,  and  a  saddle  or  anticlinal  between  Cin- 
cinnati and  Massachusetts  Hills. 

"These  facts,  which  by  a  more  detailed  statement  could  be  easily  multiplied,  seem  to  war- 
rant the  conclusion  that  the  course  and  dip  of  the  Grii^s  Valley  veins  is  especially  coafbrmable 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  113 

Tlio  \vliol(>  oonntry  was  oii^-inally  o;>v<'roil  witli  nmgnificent  forests,  tlio  diffcr- 
cnt  varieties  of  tlio  piiu^  ]irc(lniniiiatiii<]r  in  the  more  elevated  roi^ions,  and  cfiving 
lilace  to  the  oak  in  the  foot-hills.  As  the  first  settlers  liad  no  interest  in  the 
soil,  and  felt  that  they  were  Imt  sojourners  for  a  time  in  tlio  mines,  the.  tiniLev 
has  l)e(>ii  wastefnlly  used,  and  nineh  of  it  has  disappeared. 

The  entire  eoimty  is  what  might  be  termed  mineral  land,  as  distinq-nislied 
fn^m  a<i"i"ienltnral.  Vet  there  ave  many  sheltered  valleys  of  rich,  arable  soil 
which  have  been  cultivated,  and  amply  rewarded  the  hnsbandman.  The  lari^est 
of  these  is  Pema  valley,  lying  near  the  westerly  border  of  the  county,  and  (con- 
taining abont  2,000  acres  of  good  soil,  which  has  been  occiii>ied  and  cultivated 
for  many  years. 

vSett'lkment. — The  first  settlement  in  what  is  now  Nevada  county  was  made 
in  the  summer  of  1848,  when  the  south  and  middle  branches  of  the  Ynba  were 
]trospected  for  gold  for  a  considerable  distance  into  the  mountains,  and  many 

to  that  of  the  rocks,  and  that  the  streams  have,  iu  general,  excavated  their  valleys  in  alike 
coufoniiable  nianuer." 

In  reference  to  the  gold-bearing  veins  of  Grass  Valley,  Professor  Sillinian  says  : 

"The  quartz  veins  of  Grass  Valley  district  are  not  generally  large.  Two  feet  is  probably 
a  full  average  thickness,  while  some  of  the  most  productive,  and  thoso  wliich  have  given 
from  the  first  a  high  reputation  to  this  region,  have  not  averaged  oyer  a  foot,  or  possibly 
eighteen  inches  in  thickne><s.  There  are  some  exceedingly  rich  veins,  which  will  hardly 
average  four  inches  in  thickness,  and  which  liave  yet  been  worked  at  a  profit,  while  at  the 
same  time  tiiere  are  veins  like  the  Eureka,  which  have  averaged  three  in  thickness,  and  the 
Union  Hill  vein  over  four  feet.  The  Grass  Valley  veins  are  olten,  perhaps,  usually  imbedded 
in  the  inclosing  rocks,  with  seldom  a  flaccau  or  clay  selvage  or  partitig,  although  this  is 
sometimes  found  on  one  or  both  walls. 

"The  walls  of  the  fissures  and  the  contact  faces  of  the  veins  are  often  seen  to  be  beautifully 
po!ishi>d  and  striated. 

"  The  veins  are,  as  a  rule,  highly  mineralized,  crystalline,  and  affording  the  most  unmis- 
takable evidence  of  an  origin  from  solution  in  water,  and  afford  not  the  least  evidence  of  an 
igneous  ori-gin.  Calcedonic  cavities  and  agatized  structure  are  very  conspicuous  features  in 
many  of  the  best  characterized  and  most  productive  of  the  gold-bearing  veins  of  this  district. 
These  indisputable  evidences  of  an  aqueous  origin  are  seen  in  Massachusetts  Hill,  Ophir 
Hill,  Allison  Ranch,  Kate  Hayes,  and  Eureka. 

"The  metallic  contents  of  the  Grass  Valley  veins  vary  extremely  ;  some  carry  but  little  or  no 
visible  gold  or  sulphurts,  although  the  gold  tenor  is  found  in  working  in  mill  to  he  satis- 
factory, and  the  sulphurets  appear  on  concentrating  the  sands  from  crushing.  This  is  the 
case  in  the  Lucky  and  Cambridge  mines,  for  example.  But  in  most  cases  the  veins  of  this 
district  abound  in  sulphurets,  chiefly  of  iron,  copper,  and  lead,  the  sulphureted  contents 
varying  greatly  in  the  same  vein ;  zinc  and  arsenic  are  found  also,  but  more  rarely,  the 
most  noted  example  of  arsenical  sulphurets  being  in  the  Norambagua  and  on  the  Houston 
Hill;  lead  abounds  in  the  Union  Hill  lodes,  (as  galena,)  and  the  same  metal  is  found  associated 
with  the  yellow  copper  in  parts  of  the  Evueka  mine.  The  gold  when  visible  is  very  com- 
monly seen  to  be  associated  with  the  sulphurets;  this  was  particularly  the  case  in  Mas.sa- 
chnsetts  Hill,  while  Rocky  l?ar  and  in  Scadden  Flat,  on  the  same  vein,  the  gold  is  found 
sometimes  iu  beautiful  crystallized  masses,  binding  together  the  quartz,  and  almost  destitute 
of  .sulphurets.  Mr.  William  Watt  informed  me  that  in  working  some  seventy  thousand 
tons  of  rock  from  Massachusetts  Hill  vein,  the  average  tenor  of  gold  was  about  $80  ;  but  at 
times  this  vein  was  almost  barren,  while  again  the  gold  was  found  in  it  so  abundantly, 
especially  where  it  was  thin,  that  it  had  to  be  cut  out  with  cliisels.  It  is  matter  of  notoriety 
that  in  the  Gold  Hill  vein,  (continuation  of  the  vein  in  Massachusetts  Hill,)  portions  of  the 
lode  were  so  highly  charged  with  gold  that  the  amount  sequestered  by  theminers  in  a  single 
year  exceeded  §5fl,000.  On  the  other  hand,  in  the  Cambridge  and  Lucky  mines,  having  a  tenor 
of  about  §"35  to  $60  gold  to  the  ton,  the  precious  metal  is  seldom  visible.  In  the  Eureka, 
where  the  average  tenor  of  gold  in  1806  was  $50  per  ton,  it  seldom  exhibited  what  may  bo 
called  a  '  specimen  '  of  gold. 

"The  structure  of  the  veins  in  Grass  Valley  varies  in  different  portions  of  the  district, 
especially  in  respect  to  the  distribution  of  the  pyrites  and  portions  of  the  adjacent  wall. 
On  the  Eureka  Hill  the  veins  possess  a  laminated  structure  parallel  to  the  walls,  enclosing 
portions  of  the  diorite  or  talcosc  rocks,  forming  closures  or  joints  in  which  the  vein  splits 
easily.  On  these  surfaces  of  cleavage  minute  scales  of  g(dd  may  often  bo  detected  by  I'lose 
inspection.  The  sulphurets  are  also  seen  to  be  arranged  in  bauds  or  lines  parallel  to  the 
walls  In  many  other  cases  this  kind  of  structure  is  found  to  be  wholly  ab.sent,  while  tlie 
sulphurets  and  gold  appear  to  follow  no  regular  mode  of  distribution.     In  a  few  mines  tbo 

8 


114  EESOUPtCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

rich  deposits  "were  found  in  the  gravel  bars  and  along  the  margins  of  those  streams. 
Two  or  three  parties  remained  in  their  camps  over  winter,  hut  the  most  of  the 
adventurers  retumed  to  the  valleys  or  to  San  Francisco  in  the  fall.  The  next 
season,  when  the  news  of  the  discoveries  brought  a  rush  of  gold-seekers  from  the 
eastern  States,  the  lower  portion  of  the  county,  and  as  far  up  as  Nevada  City, 
"was  explored  by  prospectors.  One  or  two  companies  of  overland  immigrants 
that  crossed  the  mountains  by  the  Truckee  route  stopped  near  Eough  and  Keady 
and  remained  there  during  the  winter  of  1849-50.  Another  company  of  immi- 
gi'ants  stopped  in  Grass  Valley,  and  others  who  had  found  rich  claims,  including 
two  or  three  families,  spent  the  winter  in  the  basin  of  Nevada.  Mining,  which 
commenced  along  the  running  streams,  was  gradually  extended  to  the  dry  gulches 
and  flats,  and  thence  into  the  hills,  thus  greatly  enlarging  the  known  mining  area. 
Enough  prospecting  had  been  done  in  the  summer  and  fall  of  1849  to  prove 
the  surface  diggings  to  be  incredibly  rich,  individuals  in  some  cases  having  taken 

.sulpliurets  are  airanc^ed  very  distinctly  iu  bands  or  zones,  parallel  to  the  walls,  forming 
'ribbon  quartz.'  This  is  especially  distinct  in  the  Norambagua,  where,  as  before  mentioned, 
the  sulphurets  are  arsenical,  and  the  frold  very  finely  disseminated. 

"The  averag:e  tenor  of  the  gold  in  the  Grass  Valley  veins  is  believed  to  be  considerably  in 
excess  of  what  is  found  in  most  other  portions  of  California.  In  Allison  Ranch,  Massachusetts 
Hill,  Rocky  Bar,  Ophir  Hill,  and  Eureka,  this  average  has  probably  reached  $50  to  the  ton. 
In  many  other  mines  it  has  been  considerably  less,  but,  on  the  whole,  $30  may  not  be  far 
from  the  general  average  tenor  of  the  whole  district,  meaning,  of  course,  the  amount  actually 
saved  by  milling  operations. 

"The  loss  of  gold  is  very  various,  but  is  probably  nearly  always  greater  than  owners  are 
willing  to  confess,  if  indeed  they  know,  which  is  doubtful.  It  is  certain,  in  one  well-known 
mine,  my  own  samples  of  quartz  sands,  and  sulphurets  from  'pans,'  assayed  respectively 
$2^  and  $57  per  ton — a  result  Avhich  was  later  confirmed  by  the  researches  of  another  very 
competent  mining  engineer,  quite  independently.  In  other  cases,  as  at  Eureka  and  Noram- 
bagua,  my  own  researches  show  the  loss  in  the  tailings  to  be  very  small,  not  exceeding  $7  to 
the  ton  in  the  latter,  and  less  than  that  in  the  former. 

"The  gold  iu  many  of  the  Grass  Valley  mines  is  very  easily  worked,  being  clean,  angular, 
and  not  very  small,  hence  it  is  readily  entangled  in  the  fibre  of  blankets,  together  with  a  con- 
siderable portion  of  sulphurets.  naturally  leading  to  the  method  most  commonly  in  use  in 
Grass  valley  for  treatment  of  the  gold  ores." 

The  same  authority  refers  as  toUows  to  the  Grass  Valley  method  of  amalgamation : 

"What  may  properly  be  called  the  'Grass  Valley  mode,' consists  in  the  use  of  heavy 
stamps,  700  or  1,000  pounds,  crushing  usually  two  tons,  sometimes  two  and  a  half  tons 
of  ore  each  in  24  hours  through  screens  not  exceeding  No.  6,  rarely  so  fine.  Amalga- 
mating in  battery  and  copper  aprons  are  usually  united.  In  some  mills  mercurial  riffles 
arc  placed  in  front  of  the  discharge,  but  more  commonly  the  whole  body  of  crushed  stutfis 
led  at  once  over  blankets,  which  are  washed  out  every  few  minutes  into  tanks,  where  the  free 
gold  and  sulphurets  are  allowed  to  collect  preparatoiy  to  being  passed  through  the  'Attwood 
amalgamators.'  These  simple  machines  are  designed  to  bring  the  gold  into  thorough  con- 
tact with  mercury  contained  in  little  vats,  sunk  in  the  surface  of  an  inclined  table,  over 
which  the  stuff  is  fed  to  the  vats  m  a  regulated  manner  by  a  stream  of  water,  while  iron 
blades  slowly  revolve  in  the  vats  to  cause  a  mixture  of  the  sands  and  quicksilver.  By  this 
apparatus,  at  the  Eureka  mill,  *J0  per  cent,  of  all  the  gold  is  obtained  which  is  saved 
from  the  ore.  Bej'oud  the  amalgamators  the  sands  are  carried  over  amalgamatic  copper 
sluices,  and  are  put  through  various  ore-saving  processes,  with  a  view  especially  to  concen- 
trating the  sulphurets.  These  processes  vary  much  in  ditlerent  mines.  In  some  mills, 
especially  the  Ophir,  much  more  elaborate  mechanical  apparatus  has  lately  been  introduced, 
with  what  results  still  remains  to  be  seen.  It  is  certain  that  if  the  method  of  treatment  just 
sketched  seems  imperfect,  (as  it  undoubtedly  is,)  it  is  the  method  which  has  hitherto  yielded 
the  large  returns  ot  gold  tor  which  Grass  valley  has  obtained  its  well-deserved  renown.  As 
the  development  of  the  district  goes  forward,  cases  will  occur  of  veins  containing  gold  in  a 
state  of  very  fine  division,  to  which  other  methods  of  treatment  must  be  applied.  Such 
examples  indeed  already  exist,  and  the  problems  which  they  otferwill  be  met  by  the  use  of 
other  S3'stems  of  amalgamation,  or  by  suitable  modifications  of  the  existing  system. 

"  Valul  of  Tin;  Sii-IMIUHETS. — The  sulphurets  occurring  in  the  Grass  Valley  district  are 
usually  rich  in  eold — some  of  them  remarkably  so.  Iu  quantity  they  probably  do  not  on 
an  average  amount  to  over  one  per  cent,  of  the  uuiss  of  the  ores,  although  in  certain  mines 
they  arc  found  more  abundantly.  For  a  long  time  there  was  no  better  uiode  known  of  treat- 
ing them  than  the  wasteful  one  of  grinding  them  in  pans  and  amalgamating.  In  this  way 
rarely  was  GO  per  cent,  of  the  gold  tenor  saved.  After  many  abortive  efforts,  at  length  com- 
plete success  has  been  met  with  in  the  use  of  Plattner's  chlorination  process.    Mr.  Deetken, 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  115 

OT\t  tlidiisniuls  of  dollars  in  n  few  days,  and  tlio  fame  of  the  mines  reacliini^  <»tlier 
parts  of  the  State,  the  hills  and  ravines  of  the  eonnty  were  overnni  with  eager 
prospeetors  in  the  sprinj^f  and  summer  of  I80O.  Dnrini;^  that  season  settlements 
were  made  and  tnininij  eommeneed  in  every  pait  of  the  eonnty,  except  what  is 
now  ^Meadow  Lake  township,  whih^  the  towns  of  Nevada,  (irass  Valh'v,  and 
l{oui;-li  and  Heady  each  became  the  centre  of  a  lars^e  miniuij^  ]ioi)nlation.  No 
definite  estimate  can  be  made  of  the  gcdd  product  of  tlic^  county  in  IS/JO ;  but 
it  nmst  have  V)een  large,  for  there  were  not  less  than  i'our  or  live  thouSv.nd  men 
en<i-aii"ed  in  the  mines.  The  claims  were  extraordinarily  rich,  and  a  considerable 
proportion  of  the  miners  returned  to  their  former  homes  with  what  they  consid- 
ered snug  fortunes,  of  from  $5,000  to  $.10,000  each,  as  the  result  of  their  sum- 
mer's work.     Never  were  fortunes  more  easily  made  bv  the  unskilled  laborer. 

In  the  s})ring  of  1851  the  legislature  passed  an  act  for  the  organization  of 
the  eonnty,  the  ten'itory  having  previously  been  comprised  within  the  limits  of 

now  connected  witli  the  reduction  works  of  the  Eureka  mine,  is  entitled  to  the  credit  of  hav- 
in,£r  overcoinc  the  difficulties  which  formerly  prevented  the  successful  use  of  this  process  in 
Grass  Valley,  a  more  detailed  description  of  which  will  be  found  in  our  notice  of  the  Eureka 
mine." 

lu  reference  to  the  length  and  depth  of  productive  ore  ground,  the  following  remarks,  by 
Professor  Silliman,  are  iutcrestiug  : 

"  Of  the  length  of  the  productive  portion  of  quartz  veins  and  the  depth  at  which  they  com- 
mence to  become  productive,  Grass  Valley  offers  some  instructive  examples: 

"  The  North  Star  vein,  on  Weimar  Hill,  has  been  proved  productive  on  a  stretch  of  about 
1,000  feet,  while  the  tenor  of  gold  has  gradually  increased  with  the  depth,  from  an  average 
of  S"2tl  in  the  upper  levels  to  nearly  double  that  in  the  lower  levels.  The  limits  named  are 
rather  those  of  exploration  than  the  known  extent  of  the  productive  ore.  In  the  vein  on 
Massachusetts  and  Gold  Hills,  on  the  contrary,  the  distribution  of  the  'pay'  has  been  found 
much  more  capricious,  being  at  times  extremely  rich,  and  again,  with  no  apparent  reason, 
yielding  scarcely  the  cost  of  milling.  The  Eureka  mine  ofllers  the  most  remarkable  example, 
however,  of  a  steady  increase  from  a  non-paying  tenor  of  gold  near  the  outcrop  to  one  of 
uncommon  productiveness.  An  opinion  has  found  advocates,  and  has  been  perhaps  gene- 
rally accepted  by  most  writers  on  the  subject  of  gold-bearing  quartz  veins,  that  they  were 
richest  near  surface  and  in  depth  became  gradually  poorer.  There  is  nothing  in  the  nature 
of  the  case,  as  it  seems  to  me,  to  justify  such  a  generalization  more  than  there  is  to  sustain 
an  opposite  opinion.  If  we  accept  facts  as  a  guide,  we  find  in  California  that  the  deepest 
mines,  for  example,  Hayward's  Eureka,  in  Amador,  1,200  feet;  North  Star,  750  feet  on  the 
slope;  Princeton,  in  Mariposa  county,  800  feet;  Eureka,  (Grass  Valley,)  400  feet;  Allison 
Ranch,  ^2b  feet,  «S:c.,  as  a  rule  have  had  an  increasing  tenor  of  gold.  If  the  Allison  Ranch, 
the  Princeton  mine,  and  some  others  appear  to  be  exceptions,  tho  answer  is,  we  may  rcason- 
ablj'  expect  the  same  variations  of  productiveness  in  depth  which  are  known  to  exist  in  linear 
extent.  Tlie  Princeton,  after  an  excellent  run  of  good  ore,  became  suddenly  poor,  at  a  depth 
of  over  600  feet,  in  18(15;  but  I  am  informed  by  Mr.  Hall,  the  present  superintendent, 
that  the  good  ore  came  in  again  in  a  short  distance.  Mr.  Laur,  the  French  engineer,  whose 
papers  of  California  mines  is  often  quoted,  cites  the  Allison  Ranch  mine  in  evidence  of  the 
theory  of  a  decreasing  tenor  of  gold  in  depth,  but  it  is  in  proof  that  since  the  date  of  Mr, 
Laur's  visit  (18G2-':5)  this  mine  has  been  at  work  on  ores  which  have  yielded  over  $100  value, 
its  present  suspended  activity  being  due  to  causes  quite  unconnected  with  the  intrinsic  value 
of  the  mine.  The  rich  'chimneys'  or  productive  zones  of  ore  ground  are  known  to  be  of 
various  extent  in  quartz  veins,  from  a  few  feet  to  many  hundreds  of  feet,  and  it  is  impossible 
to  assign  any  valid  reason  why  we  may  not  expect  the  same  changes  in  a  vertical  direction 
which  we  find  in  a  horizontal.  As  the  ore-bearing  ground  or  shoots  of  ore  have  in  many,  if 
not  in  most  cases,  a  well-determined  pitch  oflF  the  vertical,  it  is  self-evident  that  a  vertical 
shaft  or  incline  at  right  angles  to  the  veins  must,  in  descending,  pass  out  of  the  rich  into  tho 
poor  ground,  at  certain  intervals,  and  it  is  perhaps  due  to  an  ignorance  of  this  fact  that  miners 
nave  abandoned  sinking  because  they  found  the  'pay'  suddenly  cease  in  depth,  when  a 
short  distance  more  would  probably  bring  them  into  another  zone  of  good  ore.  The  expe- 
rience of  every  gold-mining  district  offers  examples  in  illustration  of  these  remaiks.  In 
quartz  veins  containing  a  considerable  amount  of  sulphiu-ets,  it  is  evident  that  the  outcrop- 
pings  should  offer  much  better  returns  to  minnig  industry  than  will  follow  after  the  line  of 
atmospheric  decomposition  has  been  passed,  because  above  this  line  nature  has  set  free  the 
gold  forinerly  entangled  in  the  sulphurets,  leaving  it  available  for  the  common  modes  ol  treat- 
ment, with  the  added  advantage  oftentimes  that  the  particlesof  free  gold  formerly  distributed 
through  a  considerable  section  of  tlie  vein,  are  found  concentrated  in  a  limited  amount  of  ore. 
It  is  easy  to  reach  the  conclusion  in  such  cases  that  the  tenor  of  gold  in  the  vein  is  less  iu 
depth,  after  the  real  average  tenor  is  reached,  while  in  fact  it  is  neither  greater  nor  less ;  but 
tho  metal  is  no  longer  available  by  common  methods  of  treatment. 


116  EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

Yuba.  Nevada  City,  then  the  pi-incipal  town  and  near  the  centre  of  population, 
was  made  the  county  seat,  where  it  has  ever  since  remained.  The  county  is 
divided  into  nine  townships  for  local  government,  viz :  Nevada,  Grass  Valley, 
Rough  and  Ready,  Bridgeport,  Bloomfield,  Eureka,  Washington,  Little  York, 
and  Meadow  Lake.  Rough  and  Ready  comprises  the  foot-hills  extending  across 
the  western  end  of  the  county,  from  the  Yuba  to  Bear  river;  Meadow  Lake 
includes  the  summit  extending  across  the  eastern  end ;  Bridgeport,  Bloomfield 
and  Eureka  lie  between  the  middle  and  south  Yuba  on  the  north;  Little  York 
is  on  the  south,  mostly  lying  between  Bear  river  and  Greenhorn  creek;  and 
between  Rough  and  Ready  and  Meadow  Lake  are  the  townships  of  Grass  Valley, 
Nevada  and  Washington,  occupying  the  central  position. 

Of  the  early  settlers  but  few  remained  peniianently  in  the  county,  by  far  the 
larger  proportion  returning  to  the  east,  or  taking  up  their  permanent  abode  in 
other  parts  of  California.  But  their  places  were  filled  by  other  adventurers,  and 
the  population  gradually  assumed  a  permanent  character,  and  now  numbers  not 
far  from  20,000  souls,  of  whom  about  one-third  are  adult  males.  The  inhab- 
itants derive  their  support  either  directly  or  indirectly  from  the  mines,  on  the  pros- 
perity of  which  depend  all  other  branches  of  business. 

Placer  Mining. — Placer  raining  properly  signifies  the  working  of  the  shal- 
low deposits;  but  in  California  the  term  ''placer"  is  usually  applied  to  the  deep 
deposits  as  well  as  the  shallow  diggings — liydraulic  and  cement  mining  being 
only  branches  of  placer  mining — and  all  except  the  quartz  lodes  being  desig- 
nated as  placer  mining. 

The  placer  mines  of  Nevada  county  have  been  worked  steadily  since  1849, 
and  have  yielded  an  amount  of  treasure  that,  could  the  figm-es  be  procm-ed, 
woiild  stagger  belief.  Tlie  rich  pockets  along  the  margins  of  the  streams,  and 
the  sliallow  diggings  and  ravines  that  required  no  capital  and  but  little  prelim- 
inary labor  to  mine  successfully,  have  been  mostly  worked  out,  and  capital  and 
skill  are  now  indispensable  to  siiccess,  yet  there  is  but  little  diminution  in  the 
yield.  As  claims  are  worked  out  in  one  place  new  ones  are  opened  in  other 
locahties,  and  although  failure  in  anj'  given  enterprise  is  about  as  likely  as 
success,  yet  the  prospect  of  big  strikes,  and  the  hope  of  acquiring  a  fortune  or  a 
competency  b}-  one  or  two  years  of  well-directed  labor,  are  incentives  that  can- 
not fail  to  enlist  the  skill  of  the  most  energetic  of  the  mining  population. 

At  first,  mining  was  confined  to  the  gravel  bars  and  beds  of  the  running 
streams,  and  as  these  were  partially  exhausted,  it  gradually  extended  to  the  dry 
ravines,  flats  and  hillsides  adjacent.  The  rocker  was  the  principal  machine  used 
for  washing  the  auriferous  sands  and  sejjarating  the  gold  from  the  lighter  particles. 
It  had  been  brought  into  use  in  the  summer  of  1848,  during  the  first  season  of 
mining  in  California,  though  much  of  the  gold  obtained  that  season  was  separated 
by  the  Mexican  method  of  washing  the  sand  in  wooden  bowls.  Sheet-iron  pans 
are  now  used  by  the  American  miners  for  prospecting  and  other  purposes,  in 
place  of  the  wooden  bowls  of  the  Mexicans.  The  rocker  was  superseded  by 
the  long-tom,  by  means  of  which  a  larger  amount  of  earth  and  gravel  could  be 
washed ;  aiul  the  long-tom  in  its  turn  gave  place  to  the  sluice.  This  was  a  most 
important  improvement,  and  enabled  miners  to  work  many  claims  that  would  not 
pay  with  the  rocker  and  long-tom.* 

*  Professor  Silliman,  in  a  report  on  the  property  of  the  Eureka  Ditch  Company,  says  of  the 
sources  to  which  the  gold  in  California  is  referable: 

"The  orijTiual  source  from  whence  all  the  gold  of  California  has  been  derived  is  undoubt- 
edly the  veins  of  gold-bearing  quartz  which  occur  so  abundantly  in  all  the  slates  and  meta- 
irovphic  rock  of  the  western  slopes  of  the  Sierras  within  the  areas  known  as  the  gold  regions. 
Jbut  this  original  or  great  source  of  the  precious  metal  is  historicallj'  secondary  to  the  shallow 
and  deep  digging  or  placers,  in  the  former  of  which  gold  was  first  discovered,  aud  which 
during  the  early  years  of  California  liistory  furnished  nearly  the  whole  of  the  metal  sent  i-uto 
commerce.  That  the  placers  were  derived  from  the  degredation  or  breaking  up  of  the  aurif- 
erous veins  and  the  distribution  of  the  detritus  thus  formed  by  the  agency  of  running  water 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 


117 


Ditrlios  at  length  were  constnu'tcd  to  lirin<^  tlio  water  over  the  lulls,  and  as 
the  miners  were  compelled  to  leave  the  flats  and  ravines  and  take  to  the  d<^ep(n' 
diirginj^s,  the  process  of  shovelling' the  earth  into  the  sluices  hecame  unproiitaVde, 
an(l  the  ])ractice  of  gronnd-sluicing  came  into  use.  By  this  process  the  surface- 
soil,  being  loosened  up  or  thrown  into  a  trench  cut  in  the  bed  rock,  was  washed 
away  by  a  stream  of  water,  leaving  only  the  heavy  gravel  at  the  bottom  to  be 
shovelled  into  the  sluices.     Ground-sluicing  was  carried  on  extensively  in  this 

and  ice  does  not  admit  of  a  question.  It  appears,  also,  to  be  pretty  conclusively  proved  tluit 
the  gold-beaiino^  {gravel  is  of  t\vo  distinct  epochs,  both  gfeolopjically  very  modern,  but  the, 
later  period  distinctly  separated  in  time  from  the  earlier,  and  its  materials  derived  chictlylVoui 
tlie  breakinf^  up  and  redistribution  of  the  older  or  deep  placers.  These  api)ear  to  be  distinctly 
referable  to  a  river  system  ditlorent  from  that  which  now  exists,  flowing  at  a  hipjlier  level,  or 
over  a  less  elevated  continental  mass,  and  with  more  power,  but  generally  in  the  direction 
of  the  main  valleys  of  the  present  system.  It  was  pretty  early  discovered  that  very  exten- 
sive and  valuable  deposits  of  auriferous  gravel  lay  at  levels  far  above  the  present  course  of 
the  streams,  and  that  to  wash  these  deposits  required  the  adoption  of  new  methods  adapted 
to  meet  the  case.  Hence  came  the  so-called  hydraulic  process,  which,  although  in  use  now 
for  more  than  ten  years,  has  yet  made  barely  more  than  a  couimencement  upon  the  great 
mass  of  deep-lying  auriferous  shingle  which  remains  to  be  treated  by  this  method  of  gold 
washing. 

"Finally  comes  the  era  of  quartz  mining  in  depth,  the  successful  prosecution  of  which 
demanded  more  skill  and  capital,  as  well  as  cheaper  labor  and  better  machinery,  thati  the 
early  days  of  California  ftirnished.  In  this  man  imdertakes  to  do  for  himself  by  tlie  use  of 
his  own  skill  what  in  an  earlier  age  nature  had  done  for  him  on  a  grand  scale,  in  breaking 
up  the  matrix  of  the  precious  metal,  commencing  at  the  fountain  head  of  the  stream  of  gold. 
•'  I  projiose  at  present  to  consider  with  some  detail  the  second  of  the  great  somves  of  gold 
productions,  viz:  deep-lying  ])lacers.  The  character  of  these  deposits  is  well  illustrated  by 
a  description  of  the  ground  between  the  south  and  middle  forks  of  the  Yuba  river,  in  Nevada 
county,  where  this  description  of  gold  deposit  is  well  exposed  in  consequence  of  tlie  consid- 
erable amount  of  mining  work  which  has  been  performed  there,  the  whole  of  this  ground 
being  controlled  by  the  waters  of  the  Middle  Yuba  Canal  Company  and  of  the  Eureka  Lake 
Water  Company. 

"The  Di;ep"Placers  of  the  Yuba. — The  Yuba  is  an  affluent  of  the  Feather  river,  which 
it  joins  at  Marysville  on  its  way  to  its  junction  with  the  Sacramento.  The  south  and  middle 
forks  of  the  Yuba  river  unite  with  the  North  Yuba,  the  course  of  which  is  nearly  at  right 
angles  to  these  two  branches,  vi'hose  mean  course  is  west  about  13'^  south,  (magnetic,)  the 
Feather  river  running  about  north  and  south. 

"  The  ridge  of  land  embraced  between  the  south  and  middle  forks  of  the  Yuba  is  from  six 
to  eight  miles  in  width,  and  to  the  limits  of  the  auriferous  gravel,  as  thus  far  explored,  about 
30  miles,  forming  an  area  of  about  200  square  miles.  The  elevation  of  this  ridge  above  the 
sea  is,  at  its  western  extremity,  near  French  Corral,  about  1  ,.500  feet,  from  whence  it  gradually 
rises  into  the  high  Sierras,  the  Yuba  Gap  Pass  being  4,.570  feet  above  the  sea,  and  the  Dowuie- 
ville  Uuttes  about  8.840  feet.  This  Mesopotamia  is  cut  up  by  ravines  descending  from  a 
central  axis  both  ways  into  the  valleys  of  the  two  rivers  forming  '  gulches '  with  steep  sides, 
often  beautifully  wooded.  The  more  elevated  portions  of  the  land  are  covered  by  a  heavy 
bed  of  volcanic  ashes  and  breccia,  which  evidently  at  an  earlier  day  formed  a  continuous 
sheet  over  not  only  the  tongue  of  land  under  consideration,  but  over  the  adjacent  region,  as 
is  conspicuously  seen  in  the  sections  afforded  by  the  various  rivers  This  mass  of  volcanic 
ashes  contains  numerous  angular  fragments  of  cellular  lava,  trachyte,  basalt,  porphyry,  and 
volcanic  mineral  aggregates  quite  foreign  to  the  general  geology  of  the  country.  Its  thick- 
ness varies  with  the  topography  and  drainage  of  the  surface,  but  it  forms  the  summits  of  all 
the  hills  above  a  certain  horizon,  and  in  places  reaches  an  elevation  of  from  2,000  to  3, 000 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  rivers.  IJelow  Columbia  the  denudation  of  the  surface  has  removed 
the  volcanic  matter,  leaving  the  auriferous  gravel  exposed  as  the  upper  surface.  This  volcanic 
deposit  receives  from  the  miners  the  general  name  of  'cement,'  a  term  it  well  deserves  from 
its  compact  and  tenacious  character,  much  resembling  pozzolana  or  llomau  cement. 

"  The  auriferous  gravel  varies  in  thickness  from  80  to  100  teet,  where  it  has  been  exposed  to 
'leuudation,  to  2."j0  feet  or  more  where  it  is  protected  from  such  action.  Probably  120  feet  is 
not  an  over-statement  for  its  avinage  thickness  in  the  marginal  portions,  where  it  has  been 
expcsed  by  working  the  deep  diggings  or  hydraulic  claims.  This  vast  gravel  bed  is  com- 
posed of  rounded  masses  of  quartz,  greenstone,  and  all  the  nietamorphic  rocks  which  are 
found  in  the  high  Sierras. 

"It  is  often  locally  stratified,  but  I  could  find  no  evidence  of  any  continuity  in  its  beddings. 
The  lower  portions  are  composed  of  larger  boulders  than  the  upper  as  a  general  rule,  but  this 
does  not  exclude  the  occasional  presence  of  huge  boulders  in  the  central  and  upper  portions. 
In  a  fresh  fracture  of  the  whole  thickness  of  these  deposits,  such  a.s  may  be  seen  daily  in  the 
'  claims,'  which  are  being  actively  worked,  a  striking  contrast  of  color  is  seen  between  the 


118  EESOUECES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

country  in  1851  and  1852,  tlie  use  of  the  sluice  proper  at  that  time  "being  well 
nuflerstood,  and  hailing  in  a  great  measure  superceded  other  methods.  With  most 
<)t"  the  mining  improvements  there  were  no  especial  inventions,  but  the  different 
appliances  came  into  use  gradually  as  they  were  needed  by  the  changing  charac- 
ter of  mining,  and  may  be  considered  as  the  result  of  the  combined  skill  and 
ingenuity  of  the  mining  population.  "William  Elwell  put  up  and  used  the  first 
sluice  at  Nevada  Cit}',  in  February  or  March,  1850,  but  he  does  not  claim  it  as 

lower  and  upper  portions  of  the  gravel  mass,  consequent  on  the  percolation  of  atmospheric 
waters  and  air,  oxidiziDg  the  iron  resulting  from  the  decomposition  of  pyrites,  and  staining 
the  gravel  of  a  lively  red  and  yellow  color  in  waving  lines  and  bands,  contrasting  boldly 
with  the  blue  color  of  the  unoxidized  portions.  A  close  examination  of  the  blue  colored 
portion  of  the  gravel  shows  it  to  be  highly  impregnated  with  sulphuret  of  iron,  (iron  pyrites,) 
forming,  in  fact,  the  chief  cementing  material  which  holds  the  pebbles  in  a  mass  as  firm  as 
conglomerate,  requiring  the  force  of  gunpowder  to  break  it  up. 

"In  the  upper  portions  of  these  beds  are  frequent  isolated  patches,  often  of  considerable 
extent,  composed  of  fine  sand,  clearly  showing  water  lines,  curved,  sloping,  or  horizontal, 
but  never  for  any  distance  regular,  and  in  these  portions  occur  frequently  large  quantities  of 
lignite,  or  fossil  wood,  little  changed  from  its  original  condition,  but  blackened  to  the  color 
of  coal  and  flat  with  pressure.  Among  these  remains  are  logs  similar  in  appearance  to  the 
Manzanita,  now  growing  abundantly  on  the  hills  of  auriierous  gravel.  Some  of  these,  which 
I  measured,  were  1.5  to  18  inches  in  diameter,-  and  10  to  15  feet  in  length.  Occasionally  the 
mass  of  this  ancient  driftwood  accumulated  in  these  eddies  of  the  cunent,  where  they  were 
deposited  with  the  fine  sands,  amount  almost  to  a  continuous  bed  of  lignite. 

"Wedge-shaped  and  lenticular  masses  of  tough  yellow  and  whitish  clay  also  occur  in  the 
ancient  drift,  replacing  the  gravel  and  aftording,  by  their  resisting  power,  a  great  impedi- 
ment to  the  operations  of  mining. 

"The  'sla'jking  down,'  or  disintegration  which  a  few  months' exposure  of  the  hard  gravel 
'cement'  produces,  is  due  mainly,  if  not  entirely,  to  the  decomposition  of  the  associated 
pyrites  before  noted.  It  is  remarkable  how  large  a  part  of  the  smoothed  and  beautifully 
rounded  stones,  even  those  of  large  size,  undergo  a  similar  slacking  by  atmospheric  action, 
even  in  a  very  brief  period  of  time,  rendering  it  almost  impossible  to  preserve  specimens  of 
the  gravelly  concrete  unless  they  are  protected  by  varnish.  The  most  unyielding  of  the 
'  cement'  masses  are  sometimes  left  over  one  season  by  the  miners,  exposed  to  the  air  and 
frosts,  to  secure  the  benefits  of  this  disintegration,  without  which  but  little  of  the  contained 
gold  can  be  obtained. 

"The  gold  is  disseminated  throughout  the  entire  mass  of  this  great  gravel  deposit,  not  uni- 
formly in  value,  but  alwaj's  in  greater  quantity  near  its  base  or  on  the  bed  rock.  The  upper 
half  of  the  deposit  is  found  to  be  always  less  in  value  than  the  lower  part,  sometimes  so  poor 
that  it  would  be  unprofitable  working  by  itself,  but  inasmuch  as  there  is  no  practicable  mode 
of  working  the  under  stratum,  without  first  moving  the  upper  portion,  in  practice  the  whole 
is  worked. 

"  The  gold  rarely  occurs  in  large  masses  in  this  ancient  gravel.  Often  on  the  polished  and 
very  smooth  surfaces  of  the  '  bed  rock'  and  of  the  superincumbent  masses  of  gravel  when 
freshly  raised  from  their  long  resting  place,  the  scales  of  brilliant  yellow  metal  are  beautifully 
conspicuous.  These  are  frequently  inlaid  so  firmly  upon  the  hard  granite  floor  of  the  ancient 
river  or  glacier  as  to  resemble  hard  stone  mosaics.  In  fact  the  whole  surface  of  the  bed  rock 
requires  to  bo  worked  over  by  the  pick  to  secure  the  gold  entangled  in  its  surface,  to  a  depth, 
when  soft,  (as  of  mica  or  chloritic  slate  or  gneiss,)  of  several  inches.  #  "  » 

"The  bed  rock,  as  it  is  significantly  termed  by  tlie  miners,  shows  everywhere,  when  freshly 
exposed,  the  most  conspicuous  evidence  of  aqueous  or  glacial  action.  The  course  and  direc- 
tion of  the  motion  which  has  left  its  traces  everywhere  is  plainly  discernable.        #        #       # 

"The  'bed  rock'  varies  of  course  in  difterent  portions  of  the  area  now  under  consideration, 
being  either  granite,  gneiss,  greenstone,  or  shale.  In  the  granite  are  observed  numerous 
minute  quartz  veins  pursuing  a  course  parallel  to  each  other  olten  for  hundreds  of  feet  without 
interruption. 

"  In  the  '  American  claim,'  at  San  Juan,  the  granite  is  succeeded  on  the  west  by  a  large 
jointed  blue  siliceous  shale  of  the  same  strike  with  the  main  joints  of  the  granite.  This  latter 
rock  is  covered  by  numerous  very  large  boulders  of  metamorphic  conglomerate,  of  which  no 
traces  are  seen  in  place. 

"The  course  of  the  ancient  current,  where  I  had  an  opportunity  of  measuring  it,  appears  to 
have  been  about  20°  to  25°  west  of  north,  (magnetic,)  which  it  will  be  observed  is  nearly  at 
right  angles  to  the  mean  course  of  the  middle  and  south  forks  of  the  Yuba  river  ;  but  it  is  not 
far  from  parallelism  with  the  axis  of  the  Sacramento  river  valley,  orof  the  great  valley  between 
the  coast  range  and  the  Sierra  Nevada.  I  have  noted  the  same  general  direction  of  the 
scratches  elsewhere  in  the  great  gold  region,  but  additional  observations  are  required  to  justify 
any  comprehensive  generalization.  This  much  appears  clearly  shown,  however,  by  the 
present  state  of  our  knowledge  on  this  subject,  viz :  that  the  spread  of  the  ancient  gold- 


WEST    OF   THE   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  119 

an  invention — some  one  liavinf^  suggested  tlic  idea  to  him.  A.  Cliabot  and  M, 
F.  Huit  used  them  soon  after,  and  greatly  improved  the  arrangement  of  the  riflHes 
and  the  method  of  working.t 

Hydraulic  Mixing. — The  hydraulic  system  came  into  use  in  Nevada  county 
in  1853,  and  enabled  miners  to  work  with  ])rofit  a  vast  amount  of  auriferous 
ground  that  would  never  have  paid  bj"  the  old  process  of  sluicing.  About  April, 
1852,  A.  Chabot,  mining  near  Nevada  City,  used  a  hose  of  some  thirty-five  or 
forty  feet  in  length,  through  which  the  water  was  conducted  from  the  top  of  the 
bank  to  the  bottom  of  his  diggings.  There  was  no  pipe  or  nozzle  at  the  end, 
but  still  it  was  found  to  be  a  great  saving  in  sluicing  oft"  the  earth  and  gravel 
that  had  been  jiicked  down,  and  also  a  convenience  in  cleaning  up  the  bed-rock. 
So  far  as  known  the  hose  was  not  used  that  season  in  any  other  claims,  and  it 
does  not  appear  that  Chabot  discovered  the  great  advantage  that  would  result  by 
directing  the  stream  of  water  against  the  bank.  This  discovery  was  made  by 
E.  E.  Matterson  a  year  later.  In  April,  1853,  Matterson  and  his  partners,  who 
were  working  a  claim  on  American  Hill,  rigged  up  a  hose,  attached  a  nozzle  at 
the  end,  and  directing  it  against  the  bank,  as  water  is  thrown  upon  a  building 
by  a  fire  engine,  found  that  a  small  stream  of  water  would  do  the  work  of  a 
hundred  men  in  excavating  earth.  Very  soon  after  this  the  hydraulic  was  adopted 
by  the  miners  throughout  the  county  wherever  water  and  a  sufficient  fall  could 
be  procm-ed.  Successive  improvements  have  been  made  in  h^^draulic  mining, 
until  the  appliances  now  in  use  but  little  resemble  those  of  1853 ;  but  the  prin- 
ciple is  the  same,  and  to  Matterson  is  due  the  credit  of  the  important  discovery. 

The  water  is  usually  conducted  into  the  diggings  through  large  iron  pipes,  at 
the  end  of  which  the  hose  is  attached,  and  the  water  liavin"'  a  hiirh  fall  is  corn- 


bearing  gravel  was  produced  by  a  cause  greatly  more  elevated  than  the  existing  river  system, 
or,  which  is  more  probable,  at  a  time  when  the  continent  was  less  elevated  than  at  present,  * 
and  moving  in  a  direction  conformable  to  the  course  of  the  valleys  of  the  Sacramento  and  San 
Joaquin.  We  find  it  impossible  to  admit  the  existing  river  system  as  a  cause  adequate  to  the 
spreading  of  such  vast  masses  of  rounded  materials  ;  the  facts  plainly  point  to  a  much  greater 
volume  of  water  than  any  now  flowing  in  thevalluy.  The  section  already  given  illustrates 
perfectly  the  relations  of  the  present  river  system  to  the  more  ancient  one  whose  grand  efl'ect^ 
are  chronicled  in  the  bed  rock  and  its  vast  superincumbent  mass  of  auriferous  gravel.  It 
serves  also  to  illustrate  the  process  now  in  progress  by  which  the  existing  river  system  derived 
its  gold-bearing  sands,  in  great  part  at  least,  from  the  cutting  away  and  secondary  distribu- 
tion of  these  ancient  placers. 

"  Those  who  have  had  the  opportunity  of  visiting  other  portions  of  the  great  gold  region  of 
California  than  that  now  under  consideration,  will  at  once  recognize  th<!  local  character  of  the 
details  given  as  perfectly  consistent  with  the  general  phenomena  of  the  ancient  placers  as 
observed  elsewhere ;  while  at  the  same  time  great  differences  are  tound  in  many  of  the  details. 
Thus  in  Calaveras  and  Tuolumne  counties,  tfU  or  100  miles  further  south,  the  volcanic  matter 
capping  the  auriferous  gravel  is  found  in  the  form  of  basaltic  columns,  beneath  which  occur 
the  same  phenomena  already  described.  Here  the  wood  contained  in  the  gravel  beds  is 
beautifully  agatized,  or  converted  into  semi-opal,  as  is  also  the  case  at  Nevada  City,  Placer- 
viile,  and  elsewhere,  associated  with  beautiful  impressions  of  leaves  of  plants  and  trees  similar 
in  appearance  to  those  now  found  in  this  region. 

"This  general  description  of  the  deep-lying  placers  of  the  Yuba  might  be  greatly  extndedo 
from  my  notes,  but  enough  has  probably  been  said  to  convey  the  impression  that  the  phe- 
nomena here  described  are  on  a  grand  and  comprehensive  scale,  and  referable  to  a  general 
cause  long  anterior  in  date  to  the  existing  river  system — a  cause  which  has  been  sufficient  to 
break  down  and  transport  the  gold-bearing  veins  of  the  Sierras,  with  their  associating  meta- 
^ornhic  rocks,  thus  laying  up  in  store  for  human  use  deposits  of  the  precious  metal  in  amount 
on  a  scale  fur  beyond  the  notions  generally  prevailing  of  the  nature  of  placer  depiisits." 

*It  iit  fhe  opinion  of  geologists  that  subMequcut  to  the  tertiiiry  period  wna  tbc  time  when  the  main  valleys 
of  the  continent  were  excavated  by  erosion.  Jt  was  probably  in  this  pjioeh  that  tho  deep-lying  auriferons 
gravel  was  produced  from  the  degradation  of  the  nietamorphic  schists  and  quartz  veins  of  the  sierras  by  tba 
joint  action  of  water  and  of  glaciers. 

t  The  sluice  is  undoubtedly  the  most  essential  of  any  one  contrivance  for  savTn{j;  gold,  and 
is  used  in  all  placer  mining  opuratious.  It  can  hardly  be  called  a  machine ;  but  is  simply  u 
board  flume,  on  the  bottom  of  which  are  fitted  blocks  of  wood,  rounded  stones,  orrifilcs,  with 
quicksilver  to  catch  and  detain  the  gold,  while  the  earth  and  gravel  is  carried  down  by  tho 
currenl. 


120  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

pressed  and  forced  tlirougli  an  aperture  of  one  and  a  half  to  two  inches  in 
diameter.  The  pipes  are  made  of  heavy  sheet  iron,  and  the  hose  of  stout  canvas 
usually  double  thickness.  Where  the  pressm-e  is  great,  the  hose  are  still  fmlher 
strengthened  by  a  net-work  of  strong  cord.  In  some  of  the  larger  mining  opera- 
tions live  or  six  streams  of  water  are  kept  playing  upon  the  bank,  undermining 
the  ground  and  melting  away  the  hills  at  an  incredible  rate.  In  this  manner 
acres  of  ground,  frequentlj'  100  to  200  feet  deep,  are  washed  away  in  a 
single  season,  and  the  bed-rock  left  bare.  The  Avater  shoots  from  the  nozzle 
with  tremendous  force,  and  miners  frequently  direct  the  stream  against  huge 
Inmlders  to  roll  them  out  of  their  way.  The  hydraulic  is  the  most  effectual 
method  ever  yet  devised  for  excavating  large  quantities  of  earth,  and  the  pro- 
cess was  employed  to  some  extent  in  1866,  by  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad  Com- 
pan}^  in  cutting  through  the  deep  hills  near  Dutch  Flat. 

The  American  miners,  except  those  engaged  in  quartz,  are  chiefly  working 
the  deep  hill  diggings  by  the  hydraulic,  the  shallow  flats  and  ravines,  as  a  gen- 
eral thing,  being  abandoned  to  the  Chinese.  In  most  cases,  the  cost  of  opening 
the  deep  claims  is  heavy,  requiring  considerable  capital  and  the  nerve  to  invest 
it,  or  the  aggregated  labor  of  a  number  of  miners  who  are  content  to  work,  per- 
liaps  for  3'ears,  in  the  hope  of  an  eventual  reward.  In  too  many  cases  their 
labor  and  perseverance  has  come  to  naught.  The  richest  deposits  are  found  on 
the  bed-rock  in  basins  or  in  the  channels  of  ancient  streams,  and  to  reach  these 
tunnels  have  to  be  run  in  solid  rock,  varying  in  length  from  a  few  hundred  to 
several  thousand  feet  in  order  to  drain  the  ground  and  get  an  outlet  for  sluicing. 
Wherever  practicable,  a  shaft  is  first  sunk  to  prospect  the  ground  and  ascertain 
the  position  of  the  basin  or  channel,  so  that  the  tunnel  in  coming  in  shall  bo 
below  the  auriferous  deposit.  But  this  cannot  always  be  done,  and  expensive 
tunnels  are  sometimes  found  to  be  too  high  to  work  the  ground,  and  a  lower  one 
must  be  run  or  the  claim  abandoned.  The  tunnel  serves  the  double  purpose  of 
draining  the  ground  and  a  sluiceway,  and  the  mining  usually  commences  from  a 
shaft  sunk  from  the  surface  to  the  head  of  the  tunnel. 

The  most  important  centre  of  hyraulic  mining  in  this  county  is  at  North  San 
Juan,  in  Bridgeport  township,  and  a  brief  statement  of  the  operations  of  some 
of  the  companies  there  will  give  an  idea  of  the  scale  on  which  this  l)ranch  of 
mining  is  conducted.  The  Eureka  Company,  whose  claims  were  on  San  Juan 
Hill,  commenced  a  tunnel  in  August,  1855,  to  reach  the  inner  basin.  The  tun- 
nel was  completed  in  October,  1860,  at  a  cost  of  $81,000,  in  actual  assessments, 
and  the  cost  incuiTed  before  a  dividend  was  declared  was  $142,000.  During 
the  existence  of  the  company  the  average  number  of  men  employed  daily  was 
25,  and  the  total  yield  of  the  claims  $530,000.  The  claims  knowii  as  the 
Deadman  Cut,  which  were  Avorked  out  in  1859,  yielded  $156,307,  at  a  cost 
of  $71,433.  The  claims  of  McKeeley  &  Company,  on  Manzanita  Hill,  were 
worked  from  1855  to  1864,  yielding  $368,932,  and  paying  its  owners  in  dividends 
$126,660.  The  clainrs  above  mentioned  have  been  wtuked  out,  but  there  are 
other  couqianies  still  carrying  on  extensive  operations  in  the  vicinity,  some  of 
which  are  deriving  a  handsome  revenue  from  the  profits  of  working  their  claims. 
The  tunn<d  of  the  American  Company  is  1,800  feet  in  length,  having  been  mn 
much  of  the  distance  through  blasting  rock.  This  company  has  adopted  all  the 
improvements  in  hydraulic  mining.  They  have  a  mill  with  eight  stamps  for 
crushing  cement,  and  their  sluice  boxes  extend  from  ^lanzanita  Hill  to  the  middle 
Yuba,  a  distance  of  nearly  a  mile,  where  they  have  pans  for  grinding  the  sand. 
The  company  usually  employ  25  men,  use  500  inches  of  water,  and  the  claims 
yield  from  $10,000  to  $15,000  a  month.  It  will  require  three  or  four  years 
longer  to  work  out  the  claims.  The  tunnel  of  the  Yid)a  C<nupany  is  1,500  feet 
in  length,  and  was  completed  last  spring  after  eleven  years'  labor.  This  com- 
pany uses  4U0  inches  of  water,  and  has  ground  enough  to  last  ten  years. 
The  tunnel  of  the  Star  Company  is  1,400  feet  in  length,  that  of  the  Golden 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  121 

Gate  Company  800  feet,  the  Wyoming  Company  1,000  feet,  the  Knickerbocker 
2,000  feet,  the  IJjulirer  700  feet,' and  that  of  tlioGold  Bhiff  Company  1,800  feet. 
These  tunnels  have  been  run  for  much  of  the  dlHtanoe  through  solid  rock,  which 
costs  from  830  to  $50  a  f(>()t. 

BiKrilviTJ.K,  situated  four  miles  west  of  North  San  Juan,  has  also  been  a  pros- 
jKM-ous  locality  for  hydraulic  mining.  The  Irish  claims  were  worked  by  means 
of  drifting  for  a  nundx'r  of  years,  and  ])aid  largely.  "Water  was  furnished  by 
the  Shady  creek  and  (Jrizzly  ditches,  but  in  such  limit(Ml  qnitiititics  that  little 
jirogrcss  was  made  in'hydraulic  mining  until  1857,  when  the  .Mi<ldlu  Yuba  Canal 
Comjuny  extended  their  ditch  to  Birchville,  and  furnished  water  m  abimdance. 
In  1859  four  bed-rock  tunnels  were  projected,  and  completed  in  18G4,  at  an 
aggregate  cost  of  $1  :i0,000.  These  tunnels  drain  the  upper  jiortion  of  the  channel ; 
the  lower  portion  will  be  drained  by  another  tmmel  2,400  feet  in  length,  now  in 
course  of  construction,  by  means  of  which  a  large  extent  of  valuable  mining 
ground  will  be  worked.  The  gross  yield  and  net  profits  of  the  claims  of  five 
of  the  leading  companies  at  Birchville,  for  18G6,  were  as  follows,  in  round  num- 
bers : 

Gross  proceeds.  Net  profits. 

Irish  American  Company $180,  000  S133,  000 

San  Joaquin  Company .'. 134,  000  68,  500 

Don  Jose  C(mipany 100,  000  72,  000 

Granite  Tunnel  Company .- 82,  000  24,  000 

Kennebec  and  American  Compan^^ 85,  000  30,  000 

The  years  1865  and  1866  may  be  regarded  as  the  harvest  time  for  the  Birch- 
ville miners,  as  they  had  previously  been  at  heav}'  expense  in  opening  their 
ground,  which  is  now  nearly  worked  out.  Many  of  the  owners  in  the  above 
claims  are  appropriating  a  large  share  of  their  profits  to  running  the  new  tunnel. 

FREXcn  Corral  is  situated  at  the  lower  terminus  of  the  auriferous  gravel  range 
that  is  found  between  the  ]\liddle  and  South  Yuba  rivers.  The  ravines  and  flats 
proved  to  be  rich,  and  attracted  thither  a  considerable  numlier  of  miners,  at 
seasons  of  the  year  when  W'ater  could  be  had  to  work  the  claims.  The  hill  dig- 
gings were  discovered  in  1853,  and  ditches  were  constmcted  from  Shody  creek 
to  bring  in  water  to  work  them.  Tunnels  and  cuts  w'ere  run  into  the  hills 
wherever  fall  could  be  obtained,  the  ditches  were  enlarged,  and  profitable  mining 
soon  followed.  Subsequently  deeper  tunnels  were  run,  in  order  to  reach  the 
bottom  of  the  deposit,  which  was  found  to  be  from  100  to  200  feet  below 
the  snirface.  The  total  cost  of  the  various  cuts  and  tunnels  of  the  district  can- 
not be  less  than  a  quarter  of  a  million  dollars,  and  the  amount  of  gold  taken 
out  must  be  several  millions.  A  large  extent  of  valuable  mining  ground  remains 
to  be  worked.  In  addition  to  the  hj'draulic  mines,  there  is  a  broad,  deep  stratuni 
of  blue  cement  gravel  which  is  rich  in  gold.  This  will  have  to  be  worked  by 
mill  process,  as  is  alread}^  ])eing  successfully  done  in  other  parts  of  the  count}^, 
and  will  give  work  to  several  mills  for  years.* 

?>Ioore\s  Flat,  situated  on  the  slope  of  the  hill  south  of  the  Middle  Yuba,  in 
Eureka  township,  is  another  important  centre  of  hydraulic  mining.  Several 
thousand  acres  of  ground,  averaging  100  feet  in  depth  from  the  surface  to  the 
bed-rock,  have  been  sluiced  off,  giving  employment  to  several  hundred  miners 
for  the  past  15  years.  Of  late  the  claims  have  been  bought  up  by  a  few 
large  companies,  who  are  carrying  on  operations  upon  an  extensive  scale,  and 
generally  with  success.  At  Wolsey's  Flat,  a  mile  below  Moore's,  are  some  of  the 
deepest  diggings  in  the  county,  the  bank  in  one  place  l)eing  over  200  feet 
in  height.  Orleans  flat,  two  miles  above  ]\[oore's,  was  formerly  an  important 
mining  locality,  and  at  one  time  had  a  population  of  600  or  800;  but  the  diggings 

"*  For  a  moro  detailed  account  of  this  district  sec  article  on  ditches. 


122  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

TDeing-  comparatively  shallow  Lave  been  entirely  worked  out,  and  the  town  is 
now  deserted. 

At  North  Bloomfield  and  Colmnbia  Hill,  in  Bloomfield  township,  at  Gopher 
Hill  and  Scotch  Flat,  in  Nevada  township,  at  Quaker  Hill,  in  Little  York, 
and  many  other  places  in  the  county,  hydraulic  mining  is  earned  on  quite  exten- 
sively. 

The  amount  of  capital  invested  in  hydraulic  and  placer  mining  in  the  county, 
including  the  cost  of  opening  the  claims,  iron  pipes,  flumes  and  sluices,  and 
various  other  implements  and  improvements,  is  estimated  jft  $1,500,000.  These 
mines  give  em})loyment  to  about  2,000  men  including  several  hundred  Chinese, 
and  yield  annually  not  far  from  $3,500,000 — say  Si, 750  to  each  man.  Three 
dollars  a  day  is  the  usual  wages  paid  to  miners  ;  but  the  water  bills  and  other 
expenses  absorb  a  large  portion  of  the  gross  product,  so  that  the  net  yield  to  the 
miners,  if  the  whole  could  be  averaged,  would  be  but  little  in  excess  of  tlieir 
wages.  Of  course,  some  of  the  claims  afford  large  profits,  while  others  scarcely 
yield  sufficient  to  pay  Avater  bills;  but  the  miners  persevere  to  the  extent  of  theu* 
means  in  hopes  of  striking  better  pay, 

Ckmext  Minixg. — In  some  of  the  auriferous  deposits  found  in  the  beds  of 
the  ancient  lakes  and  watercourses  the  gravel  is  cemented  together  so  compactly 
that  considerable  force  is  required  to  pulverize  it,  in  order  to  save  the  gold  by 
the  sluicing  process.  For  this  purpose  various  expedients  have  been  devised  by 
the  miners,  among  which  is  the  erection  of  stamp  mills,  similar  to  those  used  in 
crushing  quartz,  and  the  business  has  become  of  considerable  importance  in  this 
county.  Little  York  township  has  taken  the  lead  in  tliis  branch  of  mining. 
Cement  mills  have  also  l)een  erected  in  Washington,  Eureka,  Bridgeport,  Nevada, 
and  Grass  Valley  townships,  but  mostly  as  adjuncts  to  hydraulic  mining,  and  the 
yield  from  this  source,  as  compared  with  that  from  other  branches  of  mining,  is 
small.     In  Little  York,  however,  it  is  the  leading  business. 

Blue  cement  gravel  was  found  in  many  of  the  hill  claims  in  Little  York  township 
as  early  as  the  summer  of  1852,  and  in  some  of  the  claims  it  was  so  tough  that 
it  had  to  be  blasted  in  order  to  drift  it  out.  A  very  small  proportion  of  the  gold 
was  saved  by  merely  running  it  once  through  the  sluices,  and  the  method  at  first 
adopted  was  to  pile  up  the  tailings  and  allow  them  to  remain  some  months,  until 
the  action  of  the  elements  had  partially  decomposed  them,  and  then  sluice  them 
again.  In  this  manner  each  lot  of  gravel  was  run  tlirough  the  sluices  six  or 
eight  times,  requiring  two  or  three  years  for  the  opei'ation.  The  Chinamen  work 
the  cement  in  the  same  manner  now,  and  many  are  of  the  opinion  that  it  is  the 
most  efficient  and  economical  method;  but  the  process  is  too  slow  for  American 
miners. 

The  first  stamp  mill  for  crushing  cement  was  built  by  the  Massassauga  Com- 
pany, near  the  town  of  Little  York,  in  the  summer  of  1857.  This  mill  had  no 
screens,  but  the  cement  was  thrown  into  the  battery,  where  the  stamps  were  kept 
running,  and  can'ied  off  into  the  sluices  by  a  stream  of  water.  Of  course,  much  of 
the  cement  was  not  pulverized,  but  the  tailings,  after  nmning  through  the  sluice, 
were  saved  for  a  year  or  more  and  allowed  to  slack,  when  they  were  run  through 
again,  and  yielded  nearly  as  much  gold  as  on  the  first  run.  Another  mill  was 
built  near  Little  York  in  the  spring  of  1858,  which  was  a  considerable  improve- 
ment on  its  predecessor,  and  cement  mills  have  since  been  erected  at  You  Bet, 
lied  Dog,  Hunt's  Hill,  Gougej-e,  and  other  places  in  the  township.  The  screens 
now  used  are  nearly  as  fine  as  those  commonly  used  in  the  ipiartz  mills,  and  it 
has  been  fully  determined  that  the  finer  the  cement  is  crushed  the  more  gold  will 
be  saved. 

At  the  present  time  there  are  16  cement  mills  in  Little  York  township,  having 
in  all  13G  stamps;  two  in  Washington  township  with  eight  stamps,  one  in  Eiu'cka 
with  eight  stamps,  one  in  Bridgeport  with  eight  stamps,  one  in  Nevada  with  15 
stamps,  and  one  in  Grass  Valley,  with  eight  stamps.     These  make  an  aggregate 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  123 

in  the  county  of  22  mills,  with  185  stamps.  Some  of  these  mills  are  kept  nin- 
ninij^  steadily,  othois  are  in  ojjciation  only  a  portion  of  the  time,  and  a  number 
have  been  idle  for  a  year  or  more  in  consecpience  of  the  inability  of  the  owners 
to  open  their  elaims,  and  other  causes.  The  amount  of  i^'ravel  crushed  by  a 
stamp  varies  from  three  to  eiyht  tons  in  24  hours.  Sometimes  loose  c,'ravel  is 
rmi  throui^h  the  mills  to  save  the  >;-old  contained  in  the  (juartz  pebbles,  and  which 
Would  l)e  lost  by  ordinary  sluiciny-;  but  mucli  of  the  cement  is  very  compact 
and  as  diilicult  to  crush  as  the  hardest  quartz. 

The  cement  mills  are  not  usually  provided  with  the  appliances  for  amal;2,"ama- 
tiiiijf  and  saviuiif  the  g-old  that  are  now  connected  with  the  (piartz  mills.  Quick- 
silver is  used  in  the  batteries,  where  the  most  of  the  gold  is  amalgamated,  and 
after  leaving  the  batteries  the  pulp  passes  over  galvanized  copper  plates  and 
riffles  filled  with  quicksilver,  and  whatever  gold  is  not  saved  by  this  process  is 
lost.  A  much-needed  inq)rovement  is  an  eflectual  method  of  concentrating  the 
sulphurets.  These  are  found  in  considerable  quantities  with  the  cement  gravel, 
and  generally  contain  sufficient  gold  to  yield  a  good  profit  when  worked  by  the 
chlorination  process.  If  machinery,  not  too  expensive,  could  be  devised  for 
separating  them  from  the  mass  of  pulp,  it  would  add  largely  to  the  profits  of  the 
business. 

The  working  of  the  cement  deposits,  like  other  branches  of  mining,  has  had 
its  ups  and  downs,  but  on  the  whole  has  been  progressing,  and  the  business  has 
been  increasing  in  importance  since  the  first  mill  was  erected  in  1857.  Almost 
ever}-  claim  has  at  times  paid  largely,  and  again  the  receipts  would  fall  below 
expenses.  The  gold  is  unevenly  distributed  throughout  the  gravel  deposits, 
being  f(Hxnd  in  great  abundance  wherever  the  position  of  the  rock  or  other  cir- 
cumstances were  such  as  to  form  riffles,  and  in  other  places  insufficient  to  pay  the 
cost  of  (.Irifting  out  the  gravel.  Whether  the  business  is  to  increase  until  it 
becomes  of  leading  importance  depends  on  the  character  of  the  deposits  that  may 
hereafter  be  opened  in  the  ancient  river  channels.  A  vast  amount  of  placer  mining 
ground  yet  remains  to  be  opened,  and  should  a  considerable  proportion  of  the 
gravel  found  therein  be  cemented  so  as  to  require  cnrshing,  mills  will  be  erected 
for  the  purpose;  otherwise  it  will  be  worked  by  the  more  economical  process  of 
sluicing. 

The  capital  invested  in  cement  mining  in  Nevada  county,  including  the  mills, 
hoisting  machinery,  cost  of  opening  the  claims,  &c.,  is  about  $400,000;  number 
of  men  employed,  300 ;  annual  yield,  $300,000.  These  figures,  given  in  round 
nimibers,  are  very  nearly  coiTect,  as  applied  to  the  past  three  years.  There  are 
some  outside  expenses,  which,  added  to  the  wages  of  the  miners,  will  probably 
somewhat  exceed  the  gross  yield.  Some  of  the  cement  mines  have  paid  hu'gely, 
while  others  have  proved  failures;  but  the  failures  have  not  been  so  disastrous 
and  universal  as  the  early  quartz  failures. 

Extent  of  the  Placer  Mixes. — The  product  of  the  j)lacer  mines  of  Nevada 
county  has  neither  materially  increased  nor  diminished  since  1850,  and  though 
they  have  been  worked  without  interruption  for  19  years,  the  developments  of 
that  period  have  barely  been  sufficient  to  give  us  an  idea  of  their  vast  extent. 
The  shallow  diggings,  which  were  so  easily  worked,  and  affiirded  such  large 
returns  to  the  eai-ly  miners,  are  mostl}'  exhausted ;  but  the  deep  placers,  or  hill 
diggings,  in  the  channels  of  ancient  streams,  in  many  places  underlying  hundreds 
of  feet  of  alluvial  deposits  and  volcanic  material,  cannot  be  exhausted  for  a  long 
period  of  time.  In  fact,  for  all  practical  pmposes,  they  may  be  considered  as 
inexhaustible. 

The  long  gravel  ranges,  extending  from  the  high  Sierra  to  the  foot  hills,  cover 
nearly  half  the  surface  area  of  the  country,  for  the  most  jiart  are  auriferous,  and 
in  places  are  of  great  depth.  Gold  in  greater  or  less  quantities  is  found  from 
the  surface  down,  in  some  places  sufficient  to  pay  nmning  exi)enses;  but  for 
tlieir  profits  tl  e  miners  mamly  rely  on  striking  rich  gravel  deposits  in  the  chau- 


124  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

nels  of  wliat  once  were  running  streams.  Tliese  ancient  channels  are  very 
numerous,  and  the  gravel  deposits  therein  are  of  the  same  character  as  those  in 
existing  streams.  JMany  of  the  old  channels  are  cut  transversely  Ly  others, 
showing  the  existence  of  not  only  one,  but  several  ancient  river  systems;  but 
whether  the  great  changes  on  the  western  slope  of  the  mountains  were  produced 
by  causes  now  in  force,  or  by  sudden  convulsions,  the  facts  3'et  brought  to  light 
are  not  sufficient  to  warrant  us  in  forming  a  theory.  The  petrefactions,  which 
are  found  plentifully  in  the  deepest  diggings,  are  the  pine,  oak,  manzanita,  and 
other  varieties  of  wood  now  growing  in  the  mountains,  indicating  that  no  great 
climatic  or  geological  changes  have  taken  place  since  the  ancient  channels  were 
filled  up.  The  filling  up  process  maj^  have  been  aided  by  volcanic  action, 
raising  the  beds  of  rivers  in  places  and  forcing  their  waters  into  new  channels. 
These  new  channels  would,  in  time,  wear  deeply  into  the  bed  rock,  and  in  this 
wav  the  deep  gulches,  ravines,  and  valleys  were  formed.  The  formation  of  new 
valleys  by  the  action  of  water  left  the  old  river  channels  filled  with  gravel  and 
volcanic  ashes  to  scjlidifv,  and  become  less  pervious  to  the  assaults  of  time  than 
the  primitive  rock  that  walled  them  in.  Myriads  of  ages  have  abraded  and 
worn  away  the  solid  rock  that  once  enclosed  and  towered  far  above  the  old  chan- 
nels; but  the  cement  ridges,  defying  more  stoutly  the  action  of  the  elements, 
remain  to  attest  their  comparative  indestructibility  and  the  magnitude  of  nature's 
changes. 

Tiius  far  the  old  river  channel  has  only  been  opened  and  worked  at  the  more 
favorable  localities,  where  there  are  biwashes,  or  where  they  have  been  cut  by 
more  modern  streams,  as  is  the  case  in  the  Nevada  basin.  The  ridge  between 
the  South  Yuba  and  Deer  creeks  is  broken  by  two  deep  depressions,  directly 
north  of  Nevada  City,  and  a  peak  called  Sugar  Loaf  Hill  rises  between  the 
gaps.  At  this  point  tlie  ridge  curves  to  the  west,  but  the  ancient  channel,  which 
for  some  distance  above  follows  the  course  of  the  ridge,  continues  its  general 
southwesterly  direction,  and  makes  out  into  the  basin.  Here  the  overlying 
strata  being  comparatively  shallow,  the  channel  was  discovered  at  an  early  day, 
and  worked  by  means  of  drifting,  or  burrowing,  whence  it  was  called  the  "•  Cayote 
Lead."  Shafts  were  sunk  on  Bourbon,  Manzanita,  Wet,  and  American  Hills, 
and  the  richest  deposits  drifted  out,  but  the  claims  were  subsequently  bought  up 
by  a  few  companies,  and  the  ground  worked  from  the  surface  down  by  the 
liydraulic.  These  claims  yielded  immensely,  and  the  amount  of  gold  extracted 
from  the  base  of  Sugar  Loaf  to  the  lower  workings  on  American  Hill,  a  little  over 
a  mile,  is  believed  to  have  reached  $7,000,000  to  $8,000,000.  The  amount,  how- 
ever cannot  be  ascertained  with  any  degree  of  accuracy.  Subsequently  the 
channel  was  traced  northeasterly  under  the  high  ridge,  and  worked  out  for  a 
distance  of  3,000  feet  by  the  Young  America,  Live-oak,  Nebraska,  and  some 
other  companies  of  less  note,  and  the  yield  of  gold  in  that  distance  along  the 
channel  is  known,  however,  to  have  exceeded  $3,000,000.  The  channel  is  nearly 
parallel  with  Deer  creek,  though  it  must  have  carried  a  much  larger  quantity  of 
water,  and  the  average  fall  appears  to  have  been  but  little  over  one  foot  in  a 
hundred.  The  same  channel  was  opened  a  mile  above  by  the  Harmony  Company, 
where  the  deposit  was  found  to  be  equally  rich ;  Init  that  conqiany  was  so  unfor- 
tiniate  as  to  commence  operations  on  the  north  side  of  the  ridge,  when  the  channclj 
.  at  their  L)cation,  swee})s  round  to  the  south  side,  thus  largely  enhancing  the  cost 
of  working.  After  taking  out  $70,000  at  a  cost  of  SS3,000,  they  suspended 
operations.  The  most  of  the  ground  has  been  located  for  a  distance  of  eight 
miles  up  the  ridge,  and  at  two  or  three  different  places  the  channel  has  been 
found,  and  fine  prospects  obtained,  but  the  of^erators,  for  the  w.ant  of  adequate 
pumping  machinery,  were  compelled  to  desist.  The  claims  of  the  Cold  Spring 
Company  adjoin  the  Hiuinony  ground  above,  and  still  further  above  are  the 
claims  of  the  Fountain  Head  Company.  These  conipanies  are  preparing  to 
rommence  operations  under  favorable  auspices.     The  evidence  is  conclusive 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  125" 

that  the  clianiu'l  extends  a  ctnisiderablc  ilistance  up  the  mountains,  perhaps  00 
or  25  niik's,  and  there  is  no  reason  to  doubt  that  every  1,000  feet  of  its  U-ns^tli 
hokls,  its  million  of  treasure.  Besides  this,  large  quantities  t)f  gold  are  found  in 
the  smaller  channels  that  were  probably  once  tributaries  of  the  main  streams,  as 
Avell  as  in  the  alluvium  aV)ove.  The  rich  hydraulic  diggings  at  Gold  llill, 
AI])ha,  ()mega,  and  other  places,  now  mostly  worked  out,  are  on  this  range. 

The  most  extensive  placer  mining  field  in  the  county,  and  perhaps  in  the 
State,  is  the  ridge  between  the  Middle  and  South  Yuba,  embracing  the  town- 
ships of  IJridgeport,  Bloomtield,  and  Em-eka.  This  ridge  is  about  30  miles 
in  length,  and  from  six  to  eight  in  width,  forming  an  area  of  about  200  scpiaro 
miles.  I'he  more  elevated  jiortion  is  covered  by  a  volcanic  formation  ;  but  in 
the  lower  portions,  in  Bloomlield  and  Bridgei)ort  townships,  the  volcanic  material 
has  been  worn  away,  leaving  the  ground  in  a  more  favorable  condition  for 
hydraidic  operations,  which  is  now  l)eing  improved  at  North  San  Juan,  and  other 
places  already  referred  to.  Professor  Silliman,  and  M.  Laur,  a  French  engineer 
of  mines,  have  described  this  ridge,  and  made  some  curious  estimates  of  the 
amount  of  gold  contained  therein.  Laur  estimates  that  the  region  under  con- 
sideration, worked  at  a  rate  which  would  yield  $12,000,000  of  gold  annually, 
would  be  exhausted  only  after  a  period  of  524  j'cars,  which  would  give  as  the  gold 
])roduct  over  six  thousand  millions  of  dollars.  This  estimate,  however,  is  based 
on  the  supposition  that  the  entire  gravel  range  is  equally  as  rich  as  the  claims 
which  he  examined.*     The  more  moderate  estimate  of  Professor  Silliman  gives 

*  The  Lake  Company  distributes  water  to  several  Inmdred  workino^s,  amonoj  which  I  will 
choose,  for  illustration,  that  of  the  "Eureka  claim,'"  near  the  little  village  of  San  Juan.  In 
the  Eureka  claim,  the  gravel  bed  is  135  feet  deep,  or  about  43  metres.  The  first  22  metres 
from  the  surface  are  a  rather  poor  but  easily  washed  sand ;  the  18  metres  below  are  a  very 
coarse  gravel,  richer,  but  quite  difficult  to  disintegrate.  The  working,  therefore,  is  carried 
on  under  conditions  of  some  difficulty. 

The  vvorkiog  district  has  been  controlled  by  a  "bed  rock  tunnel"  or  drain-gallery,  cut  for 
a  great  distance  into  very  liard  granite,  at  the  rate  of  41)  francs  the  running  foot,  (about  700 
francs  a  metre,)  giving  a  total  cost  of  140,000  francs.     The  claim  is  still  in  full  activity. 

The  working  is  carried  on  by  four  jets  d^cau,  discharging  together  about  2.3,000  litres  of 
water  a  minute  under  a  pressiu'e  of  43  metres.  These _;eis  fVeuu  break  up  the  gravel  against 
which  they  are  directed,  and  the  current  carries  off  the  mud  and  stones  into  the  sluices  in  the 
drain-gallery,  where  tlie  gold  is  deposited. 

Four  men  are  sufficient  to  direct  this  work,  which  is  carried  on  for  two  weeks,  say  ten 
working  days  of  eight  hours  each  At  the  expiration  of  this  time  the  washing  down  of  fresh 
earth  is  stopped,  the  sluices  are  washed,  and  the  gold  is  taken  up. 

Daring  this  period  often  days  28,080  cubic  metres  of  gravel  are  worked  over,  removing 
the  auriferous  deposit  over  a  superficies  of  620  square  metres.  The  charges  for  working  are 
as  follows : 

Francs. 

Expenses  of  water 5, 000 

Manual  labor 8()4 

Sundries,  about 500 

Total G,364 


The  gold  taken  from  the  sluices  at  the  end  of  this  period  brings  an  average  of  30,000 
francs.  This  yield  increases  to  80,000  and  100.000  francs,  when  the  working  has  been  con- 
fined exclusively  to  the  lower  portions  of  the  gravel. 

These  results  show  the  value  of  gold  extracted  from  one  of  these  California  alluvial  mines  ; 
they  bring  out  especially  the  great  progress  on  working  and  the  small  amount  of  human  labor 
in  this  new  method  of  washing.  In  fact,  estimating  the  cost  of  a  miner's  wages  at  vhe  uiiitbrm 
rate  of  20  francs,  the  expense  of  manual  labor  necessary  for  working  one  cubic  metre  of  gravel 
by  the  several  methods  hitherto  employed  is  as  follows,  viz : 

Fr.  Cent's. 

By  the  pan about  75      00 

By  the  rocker "      20      00 

By  the  "long  torn" "        5      00 

By  the  sluice "        1      71 

By  the  new  method  (hydraulic  washing) "       0      28 

Let  us  suppose  the  workings  now  actually  open  on  the  ridge  of  land  which  I  have  taken 


126  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITOBIES 

tlic  ai'ca  of  the  places  where  gravel  deposits  have  been  -u'orkecl  on  this  lidge  as 
equal  to  fifteen  square  miles,  and  its  probable  yield  in  gold  is  estimated  at 
$544,610,000.  In  this  estimate  the  gravel  deposits  underlying  the  volcanic 
formations  were  not  taken  into  account.  These  are  known  in  many  places  to 
be  rich,  but  in  most  cases  can  only  be  reached  at  considerable  cost.*  The  Mount 
Zion  Company  has  been  engaged  for  eleven  years  in  an  enterprise  to  open  the 
ground  tnsder  the  cement  ridge  near  Snow  Point.  They  commenced  operations 
on  the  South  Yuba  side  and  ran  a  tunnel  to  the  centre  of  the  hill,  where  they 
found  rich  gravel ;  but  the  tunnel  proved  to  be  higher  than  the  bed  of  the  chan- 
nel, and  was  of  no  service  in  working  the  ground.  They  then  started  another 
tunnel  on  a  lower  level,  which,  after  several  years'  labor,  is  now  nearly  com- 
pleted. The  Kentucky  Company,  encouraged  by  the  prospects  obtained  iu  the 
claims  of  the  Mount  Zion  Company,  commenced  a  vertical  shaft  last  spring,  near 
Snow  Point,  with  the  view  of  sinking  to  the  bed  rock.  After  sinking  108  feet 
through  lava  cement,  they  reached  the  alluvial  deposit,  and  the  enterprise  is  still 
in  progress.  The  cost,  and  length  of  time  required  to  realize  returns,  have  a 
tendency  to  discourage  miners  from  embarking  in  such  undertakings,  though 
they  may  feel  certain  that  the  gold  is  there. 

The  Chalk  IMountaix  Range,  lying  mostly  between  Bear  river  and  Green- 
horn creek,  on  the  southerly  border  of  the  county,  is  another  mining  lield  of  immense 
prospective  value.  The  average  elevation  of  the  ridge  is  somewhat  greater  than 
either  of  the  others  in  the  county,  and  the  higher  yjortion  is  covered  with  lava 
and  basaltic  rocks.  At  the  southwesterly  extremity,  near  Red  Dog  and  You  Bet, 
and  along  the  margins  of  the  ridge,  where  the  volcanic  covering  has  been  worn 
away,  the  aiu'iferous  gravel  has  been  worked  by  the  hydraulic,  and  in  most  places 
yielded  excellent  returns  ;  but  by  far  the  larger  portion  of  the  ground  will  have 

as  an  example,  to  be  replaced  bj  one  hundred  areas  equal  in  importance  to  the  Eiueka  claim. 
These  one  hundred  hypothetical  districts  would  be  precisely  equivalent  lo  all  those  now 
existinp: ;  for,  according  to  the  preceding  indications,  it  would  absorb  all  the  water  brought 
by  the  Eake  Company,  as  ddes  this.  'J  he  richness  of  the  gravel,  taken  in  its  total  mass, 
being  assume  J  to  be  nearly  uninterrupted,  the  yield  of  gold  would  be  iu  both  cases  sensibly 
the  same. 

Now,  the  actual  working  of  the  Eureka,  after  a  year,  equivalent  to  200  days'  effective  labor, 
brings  a  value  in  gold  of  3,0U0x200=GU0,000  francs.  After  an  equal  period  the  one  hundred 
openings  supposed  would  have  brought  in  60,000,000  francs,  and  would  have  removed  the 
auriferous  deposit  over  an  extent  of  1,240,000  square  metres. 

But  the  total  superficies  of  the  d<^posit  being  at  least  650,000,000  square  metres,  we  see  that 
this  total  gold-producing  area,  yielding  $60,000,000  of  gold  annually,  would  be  exhausted 
only  alter  a  period  of  5"2i  j'cars.  , 

The  placer  to  which  the  preceding  indications  refer  is  certainly  one  of  those  where  the  pro- 
duction of  gold  is  most  perfectly  organized  and  most  active;  but  its  extent,  which  is  GoO 
square  kilometres,  is  unimportant  in  connection  with  the  total  extent  of  the  analogous  deposits 
which  are  luuud  scattered  over  the  superficies  of  1!),000  squiire  kilometres  which  forms  tho 
auriferous  zone  of  California.  An  increase  of  the  aiea  worked  over,  and  a  consequent  increase 
of  production  from  this  class  of  deposits,  is  possible  everywhere,  within  limits,  in  the  gold 
regions  of  California. — Memoir  de  la  Production  des  Metana  I'recieux  en  CaUfornie.  Rap- 
port d  son  Exctllencc  M.  le  JMinistrc  des  Triivuitz  Publics.  Par  P.  Laur,  Ingciiieur  au  Corps 
Imperial  dis  Mines.     Paris,  It!(i2.     8vo.  pp.  IIW. 

*Mr.  IJIack  estimates  the  length  of  the  mining  claims  of  the  present,  supplied  with  water 
by  the  MiiKlle  Yuba  Canal  Company,  at  five  miles,  with  an  average  width  of  ii.oO  yards,  and 
an  average  depth  of  40  yards,  making  a  quantity  of  rj;>,OtiO,liOti  of  cubic  yards  of  auriferous 
gravel,  lie  also  estimates  that  eight  per  cent,  ot  this  quantity  has  been  worked  away  in  the 
past  12  years,  leaving  1 1 1>, 000, 000  of  cubic  yards  which  remain  for  future  operations.  At  an 
average  of  l>4  cents  of  gold  to  the  cubic  yard,  (the  average  of  the  Yuba  region  appears  to  be 
from  :{0  cents  to  4.5  cents  per  cubic  yard,  saved  in  the  hydraulic  process,)  the  volume  of 
auriferous  gravel  here  estiinated  would  jield  over  $;!8,000,(i0(l.  But  the  total  area  of  the 
various  phices  whert-  gravel  di'posits  have  been  worked  on  this  ridge  is  estimated  by  Mt. 
Black  as  equal  to  15  square  miles,  all  of  which,  and  much  more,  is  controlled  by  the  water 
of  the  Eureka  Lake  Company,  or  of  the  Middle  Y'uba  canal.  If  this  area  is  estimated  at  an 
average  of  40  yards  in  depth,  (it  varies  from  80  to  200  and  250  feet  in  depth,)  wo  shall  have 
1,815,1)110,000  cubic  yards  of  gravel,  and  if  Ibis  be  estimated  to  yield  only  30  cents  per  yard 
we  reach  the  grand  aggregate  of  $544,610,000  as  its  probable  yield  of  gold. — Professor  Silli- 
man's  Report  on  the  Deep-lijing  Placers,  March,  18(}5. 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  127 

to  be  worked  1)}'  (liiftinir,  either  In^  means  of  deep  isliafts  or  extensive  tunnels. 
The  ridg'e  extends  nearly  to  the  sunnnit  of  the  Sierra,  but  is  divided  by  the  valley 
of  Bear  river,  15  miles  above  lied  Doi^,  which  cuts  through  it  nearly  at  right 
angles,  making  a  deep  depression,  the  hills  rising  to  the  height  of  GOO  or  800 
feet  on  each  side  of  the  valley.  Three  miles  below  Bear  valley,  on  the  south- 
easterly side,  the  deep  gorge  of  Steep  Hollow  has  cut  down  through  the  volcanic 
and  gravel  formations  to  the  bed  rock,  showing  the  thickness  of  the  overlyging 
mass  to  be  at  least  a  thousand  feet.  The  Chalk  Mountain  Blue  Gravel  Com- 
pany made  extensive  loeatiDUs  on  the  ridge  in  the  spring  of  18G(),  and  has  since 
been  engaged  in  making  explorations  under  the  superintendence  of  S.  N.  Strana- 
Lan.  An  incline  shaft  was  sunk  at  the  southwesterly  end  of  the  company's  ground, 
into  the  body  of  the  moiuitain,  going  down  on  the  red  gravel,  mider  the  pipe- 
clay. Their  explorations  revealed  a  well-defined  ancient  river  channel,  the  rim 
rock  rising  to  a  considerable  height  on  each  side.  The  course  of  the  stream  was 
nearly  southwest,  and  evidences  of  an  old  river  channel  have  been  found  at  Steep 
Hollow  and  Bear  valley,  which  is  believed  to  be  the  same.  For  the  past  six 
months  a  mining  company  has  been  engaged  in  sinking  a  vertical  shaft  at  Bear 
valley,  and  at  a  depth  of  a  little  over  a  hundred  feet  they  stiiack  a  deposit  of  gravel 
and  boulders,  evidently  made  by  a  running  sti-eam,  having  a  southwesterly  course. 
Whenever  explorations  have  been  made  in  this  region,  the  different  strata  are 
found  in  the  following  order  :  The  blue  cement  gravel,  in  which  the  gold  is  very 
mievenly  distributed,  is  found  only  in  the  channels  of  the  ancient  streams.  Over 
this  is  a  deep  bed  of  loose,  gold-bearing  gravel,  of  a  reddish  color,  and  this  is 
covered  by  a  deep  layer  of  pipe-clay.  This  is  what  is  termed  the  hydraulic 
gi'ound,  the  principal  ''  pay"  being  in  the  red  gravel.  At  higher  elevations  on 
the  ridge,  the  lower  section  is  exactly  the  same,  but  with  two  additional  stratifi- 
cations. Above  the  pipe-clay  is  a  deep  deposit  of  conglomerate  boulders,  and 
above  this  a  bed  of  lava  or  basaltic  rocks.  The  bed  rock  is  uneven,  and  in 
many  ])laces  rises  into  the  pipe-clay  and  cuts  off  the  red  gravel ;  but  wherever 
this  deposit  is  found,  and  the  overlying  mass  is  not  too  deep,  it  invariably  pays 
for  hydranlicing.  Thci'c  is  a  vast  quantitj^  of  this  ground  to  be  worked,  but  to 
open  a  claim  usually  requires  the  labor  of  several  miners  for  two  or  three  years. 
Deep  cuts  have  to  be  made  in  the  bed  rock,  or  long  tunnels  run,  to  obtain  suffi- 
cient fall  for  a  sluiceway  to  nni  oft'  the  earth. 

Anc)ther  gravel  range  dividing  the  waters  of  Greenhorn  and  Deer  creeks,  passing' 
Nevada  on  the  north  and  Grass  Valley  on  the  south,  extends  westerly  through 
the  county  to  the  foot-hills,  tenninating  at  Smartsville,  in  Yuba  county,  where 
some  of  the  best  mines  in  the  State  are  situated.  The  elevation  of  this  ridge  is 
less  than  either  of  the  others  described,  and  the  gi'ound  in  many  places  has  been 
■worked  successfully  by  the  hydraulic.  At  the  Alta  shaft,  sunk  on  this  range 
near  Grass  Valley,  an  immensely  rich  deposit  of  gravel  was  discovered  in  the 
bed  of  an  ancient  stream,  which  afforded  large  profits  to  the  owners  of  the  claim. 
It  is  believed  l)y  some  that  a  continuous  channel  extends  the  length  of  the  ridge 
from  which  came  the  rich  surface  diggings  at  Rough  and  Ready  that  were  worked 
out  at  an  early  day.  ^luch  of  this  range  will  not  pay  for  working  with  the 
present  appliances  for  mining,  and  at  rates  now  charged  for  water ;  but  with 
further  improvements  in  the  art  of  mining,  and  perhaps  the  cheapening  of  water 
and  tlie  cost  of  living,  it  is  probable  that  the  most  of  it  A\ill  eventually  be  \\orked. 

No  estimate  approaching  to  accuracy  can  be  made  of  the  amount  of  gt)ld  con- 
tained in  the  placer  mines  of  this  county,  and  which  yet  may  be  brought  forth 
for  the  benefit  of  the  civilized  world.  To  say  that  it  is  enough  to  pay  off  the 
national  debt  would  bo  a  moderate  estimate,  and  it  is  not  improbable  that  in 
some  of  these  deep  phicers,  deposits  of  gold  may  yet  be  found  in  such  quantities 
as  will  materially  diminish  the  value  of  the  metal.  But  to  extract  it  from  the 
vast  accumulations  of  debris  in  which  it  is  hidden  will  cost  thousands  of  miners 


128  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

centuries  of  toil.  Some  of  the  workers,  more  Incky  than  tlieir  fellows,  will 
strike  valuable  deposits,  and  become  suddenly  enriched,  while  the  majorit}^,  as 
has  always  been  the  case,  will  toil  on  in  poverty.  The  hope  of  rich  stiikes  is 
the  great  incentive  to  the  miner  to  persevere,  but  the  risk,  which  is  always  con- 
siderable in  mining  operations,  even  when  the  l)est  judgment  is  exercised,  has  a 
tendency  to  deter  capital  from  embarking  in  the  business. 

QuAKTZ  MiNiXG. — In  the  mining  and  working  of  gold-bearing  quartz,  as  in 
most  other  branches  of  mining,  Nevada  county  has  taken  the  lead,  and  is  far  in 
advance  of  other  sections  of  the  gold  region.  It  was  not  until  the  spring  of  1850, 
when  the  placer  mines  had  been  worked  two  seasons,  that  attention  was  directed 
to  the  quartz  veins  as  the  matrix  in  which  the  gold  was  originally  fonned,  and 
the  sources  from  which  that  found  in  the  surface  diggings  was  derived.  The 
early  settlers,  and  those  who  first  rushed  to  California  on  the  announcement  of 
the  discovery  of  gold,  had  no  knowledge  of  vein  mining,  and  were  too  much 
absorbed  in  collecting  the  precious  particles  which  were  found  mixed  with  tlie 
gravel  on  the  bars  and  in  the  beds  of  the  streams  to  give  any  attention  to  the 
f^ources  whence  they  came.  The  discovery  of  gold  imbedded  in  quartz  pebbles 
led  to  an  examination  of  the  lodes,  and  some  quartz  locations  were  made  early  in 
the  spring  of  1850. 

The  fi'i'st  quartz  location  in  Nevada  county,  of  which  we  now  have  any  infoTui- 
atiou,  was  made  at  Gold  Hill,  near  Grass  Valley.  This  was  in  June,  1850. 
Quartz  was  discovered  at  Massachusetts  Hill  soon  after,  and  in  October  of  tlie 
same  year  the  Gold  Tunnel  lode  was  located  at  Nevada.  The  latter  was  dis- 
covered by  four  young  men  from  Boston,  while  engaged  in  their  first  day's  wdrk 
at  mining.  A  few  other  locations  Avere  made  the  same  season,  both  at  Grass 
Valley  and  Nevada,  but  the  three  above  named  have  become  especially  famous 
for  their  immense  yield  of  gold,  amounting  in  tlie  aggregate  to  nearly  double  the 
present  assessed  property  valuation  of  the  county.  The  first  mill  in  the  county 
was  erected  by  two  Germans,  at  Boston  ravine,  near  Grass  Valley,  in  the  winter 
of  1850-51.     It  was  a  rude  affair,  and  of  course  was  a  failure. 

In  1851  there  was  a  great  quartz  excitement  in  this  county.  The  shallow 
surface  diggings  were  beginning  to  show  signs  of  exhaustion,  or  at  least  were 
not  so  readily  found  as  in  the  preceding  years,  and  prospectors  were  running  over 
the  hills  in  search  of  lodes.  Numerous  mills  were  projected,  and  during  the  fall 
and  winter  eight  or  ten  were  erected  at  Nevada,  and  as  many  more  at  Grass 
Valley.  All  the  Nevada  mills,  with  the  exception  of  the  Gold  Tunnel,  and  the 
most  of  those  at  Grass  Valley,  proved  disastrous  failures,  and  in  1853  the  quartz 
interest  was  completely  prostrated.  With  our  present  experience  in  quartz  mining, 
we  can  readily  perceive  the  causes  of  the  early  failures  in  the  business.  The 
mills  were  erected  at  enonnous  expense,  in  many  cases  the  projectors  paying  an 
extortionate  interest  for  money ;  they  had  been  deceived  by  professed  assay ers, 
or  had  deccivcid  themselves  as  to  the  amount  of  gold  contained  in  the  quartz; 
the  ajipliances  for  amalgamating  were  of  the  rudest  description,  and  there  were 
no  miners  in  the  county  who  knew  how  to  open  and  work  a  quartz  vein. 

At  Grass  Valh^y,  where  some  eastern  and  English  capital  had  been  invested, 
a  number  of  companies  continucnl  operations,  several  mills  were  kept  ninning, 
and  the  business  slowly  revived.  But  at  Nevada,  where  the  failures  had  been 
more  decided,  the  business  was  almost  entirely  abandoned,  and  the  miners  turned 
their  attention  to  the  hill  diggings,  then  just  beginning  to  be  prospected.  The  Gold 
Tunnel  mill  was  kept  in  operation,  and  yielded  good  returns,  but  for  several 
vears  the  dependence  of  the  population  was  almost  entirely  on  the  placer  mines. 
The  few  companies  that  continued  operations,  however,  were  measni'ably  suc- 
cessful, their  mines  at  times  paying  largely,  and  this  was  an  inducement  for 
others  to  resume  work  on  their  lodes,  particularly  at  seasons  of  the  year  when 
water  could  not  be  procured  to  work  the  placer  mines.     By  1857  the  Grass 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  129 

« 

Valley  mines  were  in  quite  a  flonrisliini;  condition,  and  continued  to  prosper  for  the 
three  or  four  s\u'ceetlin<j^  years,  bcconiinii:  the  leading  interest  of  the  town,  whiU; 
Jit  Nevada  the  business  steadily  improved. 

Tiio  develoj)inent  of  the  quart/,  interest,  however,  wa8  destined  to  meet  another 
reverse,  though  by  no  means  so  disiustrous  and  discouraging  as  that  of  lS52-'53. 
The  discovery  of  silver  in  Washoe  was  first  made  public  in  this  county  in  the 
summer  of  1859,  and  quite  a  number  of  our  most  energetic  f[uai"t/,  operators  hast- 
ened to  the  new  mining  tield.  The  wonderful  richness  of  the  Comstock  loda 
Avas  fully  determined  that  fall,  and  the  next  sjiring  witnessed  the  exodus  of  maiw 
of  om*  best  working  miners,  who  abandoned  their  claims  here  for  what  appeared 
to  be  the  more  promising  tield  of  enterprise  east  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  mountains. 
For  three  ycai's  there  was  a  constant  drain  of  population  and  capital  from  the 
county — the  capital,  especially,  being  much  needed  in  the  development  of  our 
own  mines.  Added  to  this  drain  upon  our  resources,  the  most  of  the  best-paying 
mines  in  Grass  Valley  were  flooded  during  the  severe  winter  of  18G1-'C2,  requir- 
ing many  months  to  place  them  again  in  working  condition,  during  which  time 
there  were  no  returns  and  the  expenses  were  heavy.  From  these  causes  business 
was  greatly  depressed  and  property  depreciated  ver}-  materially  in  value,  espe- 
cially at  Grass  Valley  and  Nevada.  In  18G4  the  adventurers  who  had  left  for 
distant  mining  regions  began  to  return,  satisfied  that  this  county  presented  the 
best  tield  for  mining  enterprise  on  the  coast.  As  a  consequence,  the  quartz 
business  speedily  revived,  awd  at  the  present  time  Grass  Valley  is  the  most  pros- 
perous mining  town  in  the  State,  her  prosperity  being  due  entirely  to  the  sur- 
rchmding  quartz  mines. 

Without  taking  into  account  the  temporary  drawbacks,  the  quartz  Inisiness  has 
been  improving  since  ]  8o3,  and  the  yield  of  gold  from  that  source  has  steadily 
increased.  The  successful  operations  have  in  nearly  all  cases  been  conducted 
by  practical  miners,  who  learned  the  business  here,  and  who  have  discovered  and 
brought  into  use  all  the  improved  methods  of  mining  and  reducing  the  ore,  and 
amalgamating  and  collecting  the  gold.  Very  little  foreign  capital  has  been 
invested  in  oiu-  mines,  although  there  is  not  a  mining  region  in  the  world  that 
otlers  better  inducements  for  judicious  investment.  The  comparatively  small 
amount  that  has  been  invested  by  capitalists  in  this  county  has,  in  most  cases, 
been  in  dividend-paying  mines,  and,  of  course,  was  no  assistance  in  developing 
our  resom'ces.  At  no  period  since  the  wild  speculations  of  1852  has  quartz 
mining  been  in  more  favor  than  at  present,  or  the  ])rospects  more  flattering. 

There  are  in  the  county  four  distinct  quartz-mining  districts,  in  ditlerent  stages 
of  development,  viz :  Grass  Valley,  Nevada,  l']nreka,  and  Meadow  Lake. 

Gkass  Valley  District. — The  Grass  Valley  district  in,  beyond  question, 
the  most  important  and  prosperous  quartz-mining  region  of  California.  The 
mines  have  been  worked  uninterru])tedly  since  1852,  and,  though  there  have 
been  many  failures,  and  some  of  the  best  mines  have  at  times  been  temporarily 
abandoned,  yet  the  miners  persevered,  until  the  business  is  now  established  on 
a  linn  basis.  It  is  not  possible  at  present  to  obtain  accurate  statistics  of  the  gold 
product  of  the  Grass  Valley  mines,  but,  from  the  best  information  that  can  be 
obtained,  the  yield,  up  to  the  beginning  of  the  present  year,  is  estimated  to  have 
exceeded  $25,000,000.*  The  lodes  of  the  district  are  nan'ow — some  of  those 
which  have  been  most  productive  not  averaging  over  a  foot  in  width — and  the 
bed-rock,  or  what  is  called  by  vein  miners  the  "country"  rock,  is  mostly  green- 
stone and  slate.  The  lodes  run  in  every  direction,  though  the  princijial  mines 
which  have  been  opened  and  worked  usually  approximate  an  east  and  west  or 
north  and  south  course.  The  average  yield  oi  the  Grass  Valley  mines  has  been 
variously  estimated  at  from  $20  to"  ^35  a  ton ;  but  the  higher  estimates  have 

*  Professor  Sillimnn,  ia  his  report  of  March,  1865,  estimated  the  entire  yield  as  then  exceed- 
ing §23,0U0,OO0. 

9 


130  EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

• 

undoubtedly  been  based  on  the  yield  of  tbe  best-paying  mines,  examined  by 
scientific  gentlemen  and  passing  strangers,  who  have  written  on  the  subject,  and 
who  had  no  knowledge  of  the  large  amount  of  rock  worked  at  Grass  Valley, 
which  scarcely  paid  for  hauling  and  crushing.  Taking  all  the  rock  worked  in 
the  district,  $20  a  ton  would  be  a  fair  estimate  for  the  average  yield.  The  cost 
of  mining  the  rock  depends  on  the  size  and  situation  of  the  lode  and  the  char- 
acter of  the  enclosing  rock.  With  a  lode  of  two  to  three  feet  in  width,  which 
can  be  worked  by  means  of  tunnels,  the  cost  of  extracting  the  vein-stone  may 
not  exceed  $1  or  S2  a  ton ;  but  where  the  vein  is  small  and  enclosed  in  blasting 
rock,  and  steam  has  to  be  used  for  hoisting  and  pumping,  the  cost  sometimes 
reaches  $20  and  $30.  The  charges  for  reducing  ore  at  the  custom  mills  range 
from  $2  50  to  $5  a  ton,  depending  on  the  character  of  the  ore,  the  amount  fur- 
nished, &c. 

The  Eftjeka  Mine,  now  regarded  as  the  most  valuable  gold  mine  in  the 
county,  and  perhaps  the  most  valuable  in  the  world,  is  situated  a  mile  and  a  quarter 
northeast  of  the  town  of  Grass  Valley,  and  was  located  early  in  1851.  It  was 
worked  at  inteiwals,  by  various  parties,  up  to  1857,  but  the  most  of  the  rock 
failed  to  pay  for  cnishing.  In  the  latter  year  it  was  purchased  by  Messrs.  Fricot, 
Ripert,  and  Pralus,  and  the  first  crushing  made  bj^  them  ;  the  rock,  being  taken 
from  near  the  surface,  yielded  only  $4  a  ton.  From  1857  to  1863,  the  mine  was 
worked  to  a  perpendicular  depth  of  50  feet,  during  which  a  large  quantity  of 
quartz  was  taken  out,  none  of  which  paid  largely,  and  the  greater  portion  failed 
to  pay  expenses.  Becoming  satisfied,  at  length,  that  the  mine  was  a  good  one, 
they  sank  a  veiiical  shaft,  in  1863,  to  the  depth  of  100  feet,  and  the  mine  h&s 
since  been  yielding  handsome  returns.  On  the  1st  of  October,  1865,  the  mine 
was  sold  to  a  company  of  capitaliets  for  $400,000  in  gold  coin.  How  much  it 
had  yielded  up  to  that  time  is  not  known,  but  the  owners  erected  hoisting  works 
and  a  20-stamp  mill,  all  at  a  cost  of  $60,000,  besides  receiving  large  dividends 
from  the  profits.  The  mine  has  been  producing,  under  the  present  management, 
at  the  rate  of  about  $49,000  a  month.  The  first  year,  ending  September  30, 
1866,  the  gross  product  was  $531,431,  and  for  the  eleven  months  ending  August 
31,  1867,  $588,139,  making  a  total  of  $1,119,570  in  23  months.  Nearly  a  thou- 
sand tons  of  rock  have  been  taken  from  the  mine  every  month  and  reduced  at  the 
mill,  the  average  yield  being  not  far  from  $50  a  ton ;  and  the  monthly  expenses, 
including  repairs  to  machinery  and  permanent  improvements,  have  averaged  about 
$16,000.  The  regular  monthly  dividends  for  over  a  year  past  have  amounted  to 
$30,000,  and  one  or  two  extra  dividends  have  been  declared  in  addition.  The 
Em-eka  mine  is  opened  by  an  incline  shaft,  5  by  20  feet,  which  is  designed  to 
explore  the.  vein  to  a  great  depth,  and  is  now  down  nearly  500  feet.  Levels  have 
been  run  from  the  shaft  at  distances  of  100  feet  apart,  and  for  700  feet  along  the 
lode.  At  50  feet  from  the  smface  the  quartz  paid  $15  a  ton,  and  increased  to 
$28  at  100  feet.  Between  the  100  and  200-feet  levels  the  average  yield  was 
$37  a  ton,  and  below  that  the  average  has  been  $50.  The  vein  runs  nearly  east 
and  west,  dipping  south  at  an  angle  of  about  78° ;  and  over  the  whole  extent  of 
some  700  feet  which  has  been  worked  the  average  width  is  about  three  feet. 
At  the  fourth  level  the  mine  is  said  to  show  still  further  improvement,  with 
an  increase  in  the  yield  of  ore,  though  it  has  been  worked  but  little  below  the 
third  level.  The  value  of  the  mine,  with  the  mill,  hoisting  works,  and  other 
property  connected  therewith,  is  now  rated  at  about  $1,000,000.  William  Watt,  a 
successful  quailz  miner  and  one  of  the  ownere  of  the  Eureka,  is  the  superintendent. 

The  Gold  Hill  Mine,  the  first  discovered  at  Grass  Valley,  was  worked  by 
various  companies,  and  with  little  inteiTuption,  for  a  period  of  14  years,  yielding 
in  that  time,  according  to  popular  belief,  $4,000,000.  At  times  the  mine  paid 
enormously,  the  quartz  being  fairly  knit  together  with  gold,  and  again  the  receipts 
would  iall  below  expenses,  the  gold  being  found  in  "pockets,"  and  apparently 
distributed  through  the  vein  stone  in  the  most  capricious  manner.     The  mine  was 


WEST    OF    THE   ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  131 

worked  to  tlic  depth  of  300  feet  on  tlie  slope  of  the  lode,  and  for  a  lens^tli  of  GOO 
or  800  feet,  but  the  upper  levels  are  now  mostly  filled  up  and  inaccessible.  The 
\-ein  is  very  inx'gvdar  and  crooked,  and  perhaps  does  not  average  over  a  foot  in 
width.  The  work  on  the  mine  was  suspended  in  September,  1865,  but  o})era- 
tions  have  lately  been  resumed,  with  fair  prospects. 

The  Mas.sachusetts  Hill  Mixe,  which  is  believed  to  be  identical  with  that 
on  Gold  Hill,  was  worked  by  different  companies  up  to  18G6,  yielding  in  that  time 
over  83,000.000.  The  working  of  this  mine  was  attended  with  more  than  the 
usual  vicissitudes  of  gold-mining,  some  of  the  companies  failing  most  disas- 
trously, and  others  realizing  large  profits.  The  failure  of  the  IMount  Hope  com- 
pany, working  the  mine  from  1850  to  1858,  Avas  the  occasion  of  a  most  shocking 
tragedy.  Michael  Brennan,  the  superintendent,  having  hopelessly  involved  the 
company,  mm'dercd  his  wife  and  three  childien  and  then  committed  suicide. 
The  deed  was  committed  on  the  21st  of  February,  1858.  The  mine  passed 
into  other  hands,  and  a  yeai*  or  two  later  a  large  body  of  rich  ore  was  struck 
within  a  few  feet  of  where  Brennan  had  abandoned  work  in  despair. 

The  Ophir  HiLLMrs'Eis  situated  a  mile  southeast  of  Grass  Valle}'-,  and  was 
located  in  1851.  The  original  owners  worked  the  mine  a  year  or  two,  when 
they  failed,  and  the  property  was  sold  at  auction,  the  purchasers  organizing  as 
x\w.  Empire  Company.  This  company  erected  a  six-stamp  mill,  and  worked  the 
mine  from  May,  1854,  to  September,  1SG3,  the  j'ield  in  that  time  amounting  to 
$1,056,234.  The  property  was  then  sold  to  other  parties,  Captain  S.  W.  Lee, 
oj>c  of  the  purchasers,  taking  chai'ge,  and  work  was  resumed  in  April,  1865. 
The  product  of  tliK3  mine  from  that  period  up  to  June  of  the  present  year  was 
$286,082,  making  a  total  yield  in  13  years  of  $1,342,316.  The  amount  of 
quartz  worked  is  estimated  at  37,840  tons,  giving  an  average  yield  of  over  $35 
a  ton.  The  present  company  have  erected  a  magnificent  20-stamp  mill  at  a  cost 
of  nearly  8100,000.  It  is  the  finest  quartz  mi'U  in  the  State,  but  the  mine  is 
not  yet  sufficiently  opened  to  keep  it  constantly  employed.  The  mill,  hoisting 
works,  and  other  machinery  and  property  of  the  company,  with  the  cbain  tunnel 
and  other  permanent  improvements  on  the  mine,  has  cost  some  $250,000.  The 
Ophir  lode  runs  nearly  north  and  south,  and  dips  westerly  at  the  low  angle  of 
27  degrees.  The  lode  is  not  large,  averaging,  perhaps,  not  over  18  inches  in 
width,  but  it  has  been  explored  by  levels  for  a  distance  of  900  feet  along  its 
course,  showing  a  continuation  of  rich  ore  for  that  distance. 

The  North  Star  Mixe  has  been  worked  with  varied  results  sinc«  1852,  chang- 
ing hands  several  times,  once  under  a  forced  sale.  This  mine  is  perhaps  more 
thoroughly  opened  than  any  other  in  the  county,  an  incline  shaft  having  been 
sunk  on  the  slope  of  the  vein  to  the  depth  of  750  feet,  and  levels  run  along  its 
course  nearly  1,000  feet.  In  the  five  years  ending  in  January,  1867,  the 
net  earnings  of  the  mine  amounted  to  more  than  8500,000,  and  in  the  early  part 
of  this  year  the  net  profits  were  reported  at  812,000  a  month.  On  this  repre- 
sentation the  mine  was  sold  to  San  Francisco  capitalists  for  8450,000,  of  which 
$250,000  was  paid  down,  and  the  remainder  w-as  to  have  been  paid  irom  one-half 
the  net  profits.  But  the  receipts  for  the  first  two  or  three  months,  under  the  new 
administration  not  coming  up  to  the  representations,  the  sellers  released  the  pm'- 
chjii^ers  from  further  payments. 

The  Allison  IlAycn  Lode,  which  for  many  years  ranked  as  the  leading  mine 
in  the  State,  was  discovered  in  1855,  and  worked  with  continued  success  over  11 
years.  It  yielded  in  that  period  82,300,000  in  gold  bullion.  In  working  the 
mine  rich  bodies  of  ore  were  encountered  w  hich  paid  $100  and  $200  a  ton,  with 
poorer  rock  between  that  scarcely  paid  the  cost  of  working.  An  examination  of 
the  books  of  the  ^company  shows  the  average  yield  of  all  the  rock  worked  to 
have  been  850,  the  rock  taken  from  the  mine  and  crushed  amounting  to  46,000 
tons.  The  mine  has  been  worked  to  a  depth  of  over  500  feet,  and  for  nearly 
1,000  feet  along  its  course.     The  vein  has  been  an  expensive  one  to  work,  on 


132  RESOURCES     OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

account  of  the  large  quantity  of  water  that  had  to  be  raised  and  the  hardness 
of  the  enclosing  rock ;  but  probably  not  less  than  two-thirds  of  the  gross  pro- 
ceeds were  divided  as  profits  among  the  owners.  Owing  to  a  want  of  agree- 
ment in  the  management  the  work  in  the  mine  was  suspended  at  the  beginning 
of  the  present  year.    • 

There  are  many  other  ualuable  mines  in  the  district,  some  of  which  are  now 
or  have  been  paying  regular  dividends  to  the  owners.  Among  these  may  be 
mentioned  the  Now  York  Hill  mine,  which  has  been  worked  at  intervals  since 
1852,  and  produced  not  less  than  $500,000 ;  the  Wisconsin,  from  which  was 
taken,  in  1866,  1,400  tons  of  ore  that  yielded  an  average  of  $51  a  ton;  the 
Hartery,  which  has  yielded  over  $250,000  ;  the  Norambagua,  a  vein  not  exceeding 
an  average  width  of  five  inches,  but  which  yielded  over  $80,000  in  1866  ;  the 
Houston  Hill  mine,  which  yielded  over  $500,000  in  the  past  three  years,  and 
l.)aid  good  profits,  although  the  cost  of  extracting  and  reducing  the  ore  amounts 
to  some  $40  a  ton  ;  tlie  Osborn  Hill  mine,  which  was  producing  largo  retm-ns  at 
a  time  when  the  quartz  interest  of  the  district  was  supposed  to  be  on  the  wane ; 
the  Lone  Jack,  which  has  produced  over  $500,000;  the  Cambridge  mine,  on 
Howard  Hill,  and  the  claim  of  the  Lucky  Company  on  tlie  same  lode,  which 
have  been  opened  at  great  cost  and  are  regarded  as  promising  mines,  though  at 
present  idle  on  account  of  disagreements  among  the  owners;  the  Union  Hill 
inine,  and  the  adjoining  mine  of  Wm.  O'Connor  Sydney,  which  is  now  being 
opened  and  explored  in  the  most  systematic  manner  and  without  regard  to 
expense ;  besides  numerous  others  in  the  district  which  would  be  tiresome  to 
sketch  in  detail. 

There  are  now  some  30  dividend-paying  mines  in  the  district;  28  quartz  mills, 
having  an  aggregate  of  300  stamps,  and  the  capital  invested  in  the  mills,  hoisting 
works,  and  otlier  machinery,  and  in  the  opening  of  the  mines  which  may  now 
be  considered  as  available,  is  about  $2,000,000.  The  number  of  men  employed 
in  the  mills  and  mines  is  about  1,600,  and  the  yield  of  the  mines  in  1866  was 
$2,000,000,  in  round  numbers — an  average  of  $1,250  for  each  man.  The  pro- 
duct of  the  district  will  probably  be  somewhat  less  the  present  j-ear  than  in 
1866,  on  account  of  the  suspension  of  work  in  the  Allison  llanch  and  some  othei" 
mines,  but  the  falling  off  will  be  only  temporary,  as  the  mines  are  too  valuable 
to  refnain  idle  for  any  great  length  of  time,. 

Nevada  Quartz  Uistiuct. — The  Nevada  quartz  district  includes  the  town- 
ship of  tliat  name,  though  the  most  of  the  gold-bearing  lodes  are  situated  in  the 
Nevada  basin,  forming  an  area  of  eight  or  ten  square  miles.  The  primitive  rock 
in  the  basin  is  a  soft  granite,  encircled  by  a  slate  formation  on  the  east,  south, 
and  west.  Numerous  quartz  lodes,  both  in  the  granite  and  surrounding  slate, 
have  been  opened  and  worked  more  or  less — the  general  course  of  the  veins  being 
a  little  ciist  of  south  and  north  of  west,  and  the  most  of  them  having  an  easterly 
dip  at  various  angles.  Some  are  nearly  perpendicular,  and  others  descend  at  a 
low  angle,  the  more  usual  dip  being  about  35  or  40  degrees.  At  the  southwest- 
erly end  of  the  granite  fonnation  are  a  number  of  parallel  veins,  having  the  same 
general  course,  l)ut  dip  westerly.  The  most  noted  of  these  are  the  Sneath  and 
Clay  and  the  Mohawk.  All  the  lodes  in  the  district  which  showed  any  surface 
crop})ings  were  located  in  1851,  during  the  iirst  quartz  excitement,  and  it  being 
then  understood  that  they  were  the  sources  from  which  the  placer  gold  was 
derived,  the  most  extravagant  expectations  were  formed  as  to  their  prospective 
yield.  Mills  were  erected  at  great  expense,  and  a  large  amount  of  ill-directed 
labor  was  expended  in  endeavoring  to  open  the  veins;  but,  with  two  or  .three 
cxcej)tions,  the  enterprises  were  failures,  and  quartz  was  very  generally  pro- 
nounced a  humbug. 

The  Gold  Tunnel  Mine,  situated  west  of  Nevada  City,  but  mostly  in  the  cor- 
poration limits,  was  the  only  one  in  the  district  in  which  operations  were  continued 
without  interruption.     This  was  the  first  gold-bcai-ing  lode  discovered  in  the  dis- 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  133 

trict,  find  the  discoverers  worked  it  for  a  time  by  wasliinc;  tlic  decomposed  quartz 
in  a  rocker,  realizinj^  larcfo  profits.  In  the  sprinj^  of  1851  a  tunnel  was  started 
on  the  h)de,  and  the  followiui]^  summer  a  six-stamp  mill  was  erected  on  Deer 
creek,  near  the  mouth  of  the  tunnel,  to  crush  the  rock.  From  1852  to  1855  the 
mine  was  woi'ked  by  K.  W.  Kidd,  who  owned  a  controlling  interest,  and  in  the 
latter  year  the  property,  including'  the  mill  and  mine,  was  sold  to  a  company 
of  Cornish  miners.  Up  to  this  time  the  mine  has  ^nclded  over  S300,000  in  gold, 
the  rock  paying  on  an  average  850  a  ton,  though  worked  in  a  mill  that  would 
not  now  be  used.  The  Cornishmcn  worked  the  mine  over  eight  years,  suspend- 
ing operations  in  1SG3,  but  the  yield  during  that  period  is  not  known.  A  con- 
tinuous body  of  rich  ore  extended  from  the  mouth  of  the  tunnel  at  Deer  creek 
for  a  distance  of  GOO  feet  north ;  beyond  that  the  rock  contains  gold,  but  not  in 
sufficient  quantities  to  pay  for  working.  The  vein  has  never  been  worked  below 
the  level  of  Deer  creek,  but  there  is  no  doubt  that  it  will  eventually  be  opened 
to  a  great  depth,  and  worked  again  with  profit. 

The  Illinois  axd  CALironxiA  Claims,  situated  on  the  gold  tunnel  lode  south 
of  Deer  creek,  have  been  worked  at  intervals  since  1851,  and  at  times  have  paid 
largely.  In  186G  the  Eagle  Company  purchased  the  California  claim,  erected 
hoisting  works  and  a  10-starap  mill,  and  expended  a  large  amount  in  sinking  an 
incline  shaft  and  exploring  the  vein.  Considerable  rock  was  taken  from  the 
mine  and  crushed,  but  it  did  not  yield  in  accordance  with  the  anticipations  of 
the  company,  and  recently  the  work  was  suspended.  It  is  understood  that  opera- 
tions will  soon  be  resumed. 

The  Baxxek  Mixe  is  situated  three  miles  east  of  Nevada  City,  and  is  a  com- 
paratively recent  location.  Some  work  has  been  dowc  on  it  in  ISGO- 61  by  two 
different  companies,  but  the  indications  being  unfavorable,  they  abandoned  it. 
It  was  relocated  in  1SG4  by  the  parties  from  whom  the  present  owners  derive 
their  title,  and  the  first  crushing  yielded  only  four  or  five  dollars  a  ton.  After  a 
suspension  of  some  months  they  took  out  anotlier  crashing,  which  yielded  near 
$20  a  ton,  and  this  gave  the  mine  a  good  reputation,  which  it  has  ever  since  sus- 
tained. With  two  or  three  temporary  interraptions,  the  mine  has  been  worked 
from  Juno,  1865,  up  to  the  present  time.  The  lode  runs  nearly  north  and  south, 
dips  to  the  cast  at  an  angle  of  about  50°,  and  is  opened  by  an  incline  shaft  sunk 
to  the  depth  of  350  feet  on  the  slope  of  the  vein.  Four  levels  have  been  run 
in  each  direction  from  the  shaft,  the  upper  one  being  60  feet  from  the  sm'face, 
the  next  60  feet  deeper,  and  the  other  two  at  distances  of  100  feet.  Two 
"chimneys"  of  rich  rock,  or  "ore  shoots,"  as  they  are  conmionly  calle.d  by  the 
miners,  have  be-en  found  in  the  lode,  both  of  Avhich  rapidly  widen  with  the  depth. 
At  the  lirst  level,  60  feet  below  the  surface,  the  large  ore  chute  extends  along 
the  course  of  the  lode  only  about  100  feet;  but  at  the  third  level,  160  feet  deeper, 
it  has  a  breadth  along  the  lode  of  225  feet.  North  of  the  mfun  ore  chute  another 
body  of  rich  quartz  has  been  struck,  which  has  a  breadth  of  40  feet  at  the  seco-.id 
level  and  75  feet  at  the  third  level.  If  they  continue  their  course  they  will  come 
together  at  the  fourth  level,  thus  affording  continuous  rich  ore  for  a  distance  of 
about  500  feet  along  the  lode.  Outside  of  the  ore  chutes  the  quartz  pays  only 
$8  or  $10  a  ton,  barely  sufficient  to  cover  the  expenses  of  mining  and  reducing 
it.  Up  to  the  1st  of  January,  1S66,  5,000  tons  of  rock  had  been  taken  from  the 
mine  and  rctluced,  yielding  an  average  of  about  $19  a  ton.  From  the  1st  of 
January  to  the  1st  of  September,  of  the  present  year,  the  yield  has  l)een  .$76,000 
from  3,000  tons  of  rock  worked,  an  average  of  $2o  33  a  ton.  The  vein  is  of 
good  size,  being  from  three  to  four  feet  in  width,  and  is  now  yielding  from  30  to 
40  tons  of  (piarlz  daily.  The  owners  have  a  20-stamp  mill  convenient  to  the 
mine,  and  besides  keeping  this 'employed,  they  are  having  considerable  quartz 
worked  at  custom  mills. 

The  Pittsdurg  Mixe,  more  commonly  known  as  the  "  Wigham,*''  is  situated 
a  mile  and  u  half  southeast  of  Nevada  City,  on  the  slope  of  the  hill  descending 


134  EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

iuto  the  basin.  It  was  located  in  1851  for  a  Pittsburg  mining  company,  by  R.  . 
S.  Wigliam,  wlio  erected  a  mill  the  same  season,  but  the  entei-prise  was  among 
the  early  quartz  failures.  The  property  finally  fell  into  the  hands  of  Meixitt  & 
Bourn,  of  San  Francisco,  who  still  retain  it.  The  mine  was  worked  on  a  lease 
in  1S55,  and  again  in  1857,  but  with  indifferent  success.  In  1862  it  was  leased 
to  Weeks  &  Thomas,  who,  in  the  course  of  15  months,  took  out  3,700  tons  of 
quartz,  which  yielded  at  the  mill  an  average  of  $22  a  ton,  and  the  profits  to  the 
lessees  amounted  to  near  $40,000.  The  mine  was  then  idle  until  January,  1866, 
when  the  owners  made  arrangements  for  fmther  explorations.  Another  level  was 
opened,  and  in  the  course  of  the  year  the  mine  yielded  8102,000  from  1,700  tons 
of  rock — an  average  of  $60  a  ton.  A  mill  and  first-class  hoisting  works  were 
erected  last  spring,  and  started  in  operation  about  the  1st  of  June,  but  we  have 
no  report  of  the  yield  for  this  season.  At  the  upper  level  the  ore  chute  extended 
only  about  50  feet  along  the  lode ;  but  in  the  lower  level,  380  feet  on  the  slope 
of  the  vein,  it  has  a  breadth  of  400  feet.  The  average  width  of  the  vein  is  about 
two  feet,  and  the  country  rock  is  slate.  The  Wigham  and  the  Banner  are  the 
leading  quartz  mines  of  Nevada  district  at  the  present  time. 

The  mine  of  the  Nevada  Quartz  Mining  CoiiPANT,  commonly  known  as 
the  *'  Soggs"  mine,  is  situated  a  mile  west  of  Nevada  City,  and  is  a  parallel  vein 
with  the  Gold  Tunnel.  The  lode  was  located  at  an  early  day,  but  no  successful 
effort  was  made  to  develop  it  until  1857.  A  rich  chimney  having  been  discovered 
by  the  owners,  they  made  aiTangements  for  the  erection  of  an  eight-stamp  steam 
mill  to  work  the  mine.  This  was  run  two  or  three  years  successfully,  when  it 
was  taken  down,  and  the  o^viiers  put  up  a  new  12-stamp  water  mill  on  Deer 
creek,  and  the  mine  has  been  worked,  Avith  one  or  two  brief  interruptions,  for  10 
years.  About  5,000  tons  of  rock  have  annually  been  taken  from  the  mine  and 
cmshed  at  the  mill,  the  gross  receipts  ranging  from  840,000  to  $70,000  a  year. 
During  the  year  1866,  according  to  a  statement  furnished  by  William  M.  Rat- 
clifF,  the  superintendent,  the  amount  of  rock  crushed  was  a  fraction  under  5,000 
tons,  Avhich  yielded  at  the  mill  $42,000;  while  the  returns  from  sulphuret  ore 
ship})ed  to  Swansea  and  concentrated  sulphurets  netted  $8,000.  The  average 
yield  of  all  the  rock  crushed  has  been  about  $13  a  ton,  yet  the  owners  have  at 
times  derived  large  dividends  fi'om  the  working  of  the  mine,  and,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  che  construction  account  of  the  first  mill,  but  one  assessment  has  been 
levied,  and  that  only  for  a  trifling  amount.  The  lode  is  one  of  the  lai'gcst  in  the 
district,  though  very  irregular,  ranging  from  a  mere  seam  to  16  feet  in  width,  and 
averaging  about  four  feet.  It  is  opened  by  three  tunnels,  starting  in  above  the 
mill  and  running  north.  The  length  of  the  upper  tunnel  is  2,900  feet,  and  the 
other  two  about  1,900  feet  each.  The  rock  is  taken  from  the  mine  in  cars  and 
dumped  in  front  of  the  stamps,  thus  saving  the  cost  of  hauling;  and  having  a 
large  lode,  and  the  advantage  of  water-power  to  run  the  mill,  the  owners  have 
been  enabled  to  work  a  low  gi-ade  of  ores  with  profit. 

The  Sneatii  and  Clay  Mine,  situated  a  mile  southeast  of  Nevada  City,  was 
discovered  in  the  spring  of  1862,  iind  several  lots  of  the  quartz  crushed  diuring 
the  next  summer  yielding  good  returns,  the  locaters  erected  a  mill,  which  was 
started  in  operation  about  April,  1863.  For  a  time  the  rock  yielded  largely, 
the  gross  product  in  two  years  being  $180,000,  of  which  over  half  was  clear 
profit ;  bat  the  owners  were  unable  to  agree  in  the  management,  and  having 
worked  out  the  opened  levels  iho  property  was  sold  iu  May,  1865,  to  a  New 
York  company  for  $27,000.  The  mill  and  hoisting  works  had  cost  $45,000. 
The  New  York  company  opened  two  additional  levels,  which  having  been  worked 
out  to  the  extent  of  the  pay  ore,  the  work  was  suspended  in  the  sunnuerof  1867. 
The  mine  is  believed  to  bo  a  good  <nie,  and  had  it  been  judiciously  managed 
from  the  start,  and  the  "dead  work"  kept  well  in  advance,  it  might  have  been 
profitably  -worked  for  a  long  period. 

The  Lecompton  Mine,  three  miles  above  Nevada  City,  on  Deer  creek,  was 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS  ISfi 

Ideated  in  18')8,  and  in  tho  course  of  two  years  the  net  proceeds  anionnted  to 
SCO. 000,  the  quartz  avcragincf  S40  a  ton.  Tho  gross  yield  of  tho  mine  up  to 
186:^5  was  8220,000,  and  it  has  Tx^en  worked  Lut  littlo  since,  tho  pay  on?  above 
the  level  of  tho  creek  l)ein2;  exhausted.  This  lode  is  situated  near  the  junction 
of  the  granite  and  slate,  and  cuts  through  from  one  formation  to  the  other  with- 
out changing  its  course  or  dip. 
»  There  are  numerous  other  mines  in  the  district  which  have  at  times  ailbrded 
large  profits  to  the  owners,  but  which  are  now  idle,  either  from  bad  manage- 
ment or  other  causes.  Among  those  now  being  worked  may  bo  mention(>d  tiio 
Cornish,  the  Pennsylvania,  the  Providence,  and  the  Murchie,  \rhi(;h  liavo  mills 
connected  therewith,  and  the  Cunningham,  Mohawk,  Mattingly,  and  Harvey. 
All  of  these  have  yielded  good  returns,  and  arc  still  worked  with  i'air  success. 

There  are  now  in  the  Nevada  district  17  quartz  mills,  having  an  aggregate 
of  137  stamps,  and  the  capital  invested  in  the  business  is  about  S500,000.  Tlie 
total  yield  of  the  mines  in  1865  was  about  8400,000  ;  in  186G,  according  to  sta- 
tistics kept  by  Wells,  Fargo  &  Co.,  it  was  a  fraction  less  than  $500,000,  and  will 
be  about  the  same  in  1867.  Tho  number  of  men  employed  in  tho  mines  and 
mills  is  about  450,  the  gross  yield  being  equal  to  $1,100  for  each  man.  A  con- 
siderable proportion  of  the  quartz  miners  arc  either  prospecting  or  engaged  in 
opening  veins,  which  are  not  now  productive. 

Eureka  Quartz  District. — Within  the  past  year  or  two  considerable  atten- 
tion has  been  given  to  the  development  of  tho  quartz  lodes  near  tho  town  of 
Eureka,  some  twenty-five  miles  above  Nevada  City.  The  general  characteristics 
of  the, Eureka  district  resemble,  in  many  respects,  those  of  the  Nevada  district, 
the  country  rock  being  a  soft  granite,  which  can  be  excavated  in  most  places 
without  the  aid  of  powder,  and  the  course  of  the  veins  being  east  of  south  and 
west  of  noi'th,  corresponding  with  the  mountain  range.  This  quartz  belt  crosses 
the  South  Yuba  into  Washington  township,  where  the  enclosing  granite  is  hard, 
which  greatly  enhances  the  cost  of  working  tho  mines.  In  the  slate  formation, 
which  comes  in  half  a  mile  Avest  of  the  town  of  Eureka,  there  are  numerous 
w^ell-defined  quartz  veins,  but  they  contain  very  little  gold,  and  with  one  or  two 
exceptions  are  considered  valueless. 

In  1856  a  quartz  lode  was  located  on  Gaston  ridge,  some  miles  south  of 
Eureka,  and  a  mill  was  erected  to  work  it  a  year  or  two  later,  which  was  run 
with  little  interraption  until  November,  1863,  when  it  was  destroyed  by  fire. 
In  that  time  some  15,000  tons  of  quartz  were  extracted  from  tho  mine  and  crushed 
in  the  mill,  yielding  an  average  of  $8  or  $9  a  ton.  Tho  mill  Avas  an  inferior 
one,  having  no  pans  or  other  improved  methods  of  saA^ng  the  gold  ;  but  the  vein 
being  large  and  favorably  situated  for  working  the  owners  realized  a  small  profit, 
though  not  sutlicient  at  that  time  to  justify  them  in  erecting  a  ncnv  mill.  Two 
other  mills  were  built  in  the  district  in  1857 ;  but  one  was  sold  on  account  of  a 
disagreement  among  the  owners,  and  tho  machinery  moved  away  ;  and  tho  other, 
after  doing  a  fair  business  for  two  or  tliree  years,  was  taken  down  and  moved  to 
Washoe  at  the  beginning  of  the  silver  excitement. 

No  further  attempt  was  made  to  develop  tho  mines  of  the  district  until  tho 
gpring  of  1866,  when  some  of  tho  old  residents,  having  worked  out  their  placer 
claims,  and  others  who  had  noted  tho  favorable  indications,  commenced  operations 
in  earnest.  A  couple  of  aiTastras  were  erected  near  tho  towni,  run  by  water 
power,  and  capable  of  reducing  three  tons  of  quartz  in  24  hours.  These  arras- 
tras  have  been  constantly  employed,  have  done  excellent  work,  and  been  ()f  grc^t- 
advantage  in  prospecting  and  determining  tho  value  of  tlio  mines.  During  the 
summer  "and  fall  of  1866,  Messrs,  Black  &  Young  erected  a  10-stamp  mill  on  a 
lode  situated  about  a  mile  south  of  town.  Operations,  however,  were  not  fairly- 
commenced  on  the  mine  until  Mav  last,  since  which  time  tho  mill  has  been  run- 
ning steadily,  and  the  quartz  is  yielding  from  $20  to  $25  a  ton.  Two  other  mills 
were  also  built  tho  same  season,  one  of  five  stamps  to  work  tho  Jim  lode,  "audi 


136  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND'  TERRITORIES 

tlie  other  of  four  stamps,  intended  for  custom  work.  Two  new  mills  are  now  in 
course  of  construction,  one  of  10  stamps  to  work  the  Veatch  and  Powell  mine, 
and  the  otlier  of  live  stamps  on  the  Birchville  mine.  Both  of  these  mines  have 
been  tlioroughly  prospected,  are  of  good  size,  and  the  gold  is  found  in  paying 
quantities  very  generally  disseminated  through  the  vein-stone. 

TECUiiSEH  Mills. — Some  years  ago  two  mills  known  as  the  Tecumseh  and 
Star  were  erected  in  Washington  township,  but  on  the  same  quartz  range.  Con- 
siderable quartz  has  been  worked  in  both  mills,  which  yielded  fair  pay  ;  but  owing 
to  want  of  means  to  properly  open  the  mines,  the  expense  being  veiy  great  on 
account  of  the  hardness  of  the  enclosing  rock,  the  entei-prises  have  not  proved 
successful.  The  Star  Company,  however,  is  still  prosecuting  work,  and  the 
Tecumseh  mill  has  lately  been  leased  to  parties  who  are  prospecting  other  lodes. 

The  Gki/zly  Lot>r,  situated  fom*  miles  west  of  Eureka,  in  Devil's  canon,  was 
purchased  l)y  tlie  Eagle  Company,  of  Hartford,  about  the  beginning  of  1866. 
The  company  erected  a  live-stamp  mill  at  the  mine  in  the  fall  of  the  same  year, 
but  being  unprepared  for  winter  work,  little  was  done  in  developing  the  lode 
until  iMny  last,  since  which  time  the  mill  has  been  nmning  steadily  and  with 
favorable  results.  The  vein  has  an  average  width  of  four  feet,  runs  in  slate, 
and  is  opened  by  tunnels.  It  is  so  situated  that,  with  proper  an-angements  and 
.a  larger  mill,  $6  and  $S  quartz  can  be  worked  with  profit.  As  long  ago  as  1854 
a  mill  was  erected  on  a  lode  called  the  National,  tibout  half  way  between  Eureka 
and  the  Grizzly.  .This  mill  was  run  a  year  or  more,  a  portion  of  the  time  being 
leased,  but  the  yield  of  the  quartz  was  not  sufficient  to  pay  with  the  prices  then 
i-uling.  The  work  was  suspended  in  1856,  and  the  mill  was  destroyed  by  firo 
a  year  or  two  later.  The  Grizzly  and  National  are  the  only  quartz  lodes  yet 
discovered  in  the  slate  formation  of  that  region  that  have  exhibited  sufficiently 
favorable  surface  indications  to  justify  an  outlay  of  capital  to  develop. 

About  250  men  are  engaged  at  the  present  time  in  the  quartz  mines  and  mills 
of  the  Eureka  district,  many  of  whom  are  prospecting  or  working  on  lodes  that 
are  not  yet  i)roductive.  There  are  10  mills  in  the  district,  including  the  two  in 
"Washington  township,  having  an  aggregate  of  60  stamps,  and  the  capital  invested 
is  estimated  at  S200,000.  The  yield  of  the  mines  for  1867,  it  is  believed,  will 
amount  to  $200,000. 

Meadow  Lake  District. — The  Meadow  Lake  quartz  district  is  situated  near 
the  summit  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  bat  on  the  western  slope.  It  derives  its  name 
from  a  large  mountain  lake,  used  b}-  the  South  Yuba  Canal  Company  as  a  res- 
ervoir, a  dam  having  been  constructed  across  its  outlet  to  retain  the  water  in  the 
spring,  and  is  let  out  into  the  company's  ditches  as  fast  as  needed  by  the  miners. 
Gold-bearing  quartz  lodes  were  discovered  near  the  lake  in  1863,  others  the  year 
following,  and  in  1865,  some  of  the  lodes  giving  indications  of  extraordinary 
richness,  considerable  excitement  was  created  throughout  California  and  Nevada 
State,  causing  a  rush  of  adventurers  to  the  locality.  The  real  work  of  develop- 
ing the  mines  was  not  commenced  until  the  summer  of  1866,  and  considering  the 
many  disadvantages,  including  the  deep  snows  of  winter,  has  progressed  favor- 
ably, though  not,  on  the  whole,  equal  to  the  anticipations  of  the  first  adventurers 
and  locaters. 

The  country  rock  of  the  district  is  sienite,  and  usually  has  to  bo  blasted  in 
making  excavations ;  but  this  disadvantage  is  partially  compensated  by  the  size 
of  the  veins,  which  will  average  considerably  larger  than  those  of  Grass  Valley 
and  Nevada.  The  general  direction  of  the  lodes  is  northwesterly  and  south- 
easterly, and  they  are  easily  traced  by  the  dark,  reddish  appearance  of  the  crop- 
pings,  caused  by  the  oxidation  of  the  iron  pyrites  encased  in  the  quartz.  The 
qi'.artz  contains  an  unusiu\lly  large  proportion  of  sulphurets,  averaging,  it  is  said, 
20  to  25  per  cent.  The  s;ulphurets  yield  by  assay  $60  to  $70  a  ton,  and  are  suc- 
cessfully reduced  by  the  Plattner  chlorination  process,  works  for  that  purpose 
.having  been  constructed  in  the  district.     Seven  quartz  mills  have  been  built  in 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


137 


tlio  district,  having'  in  ull  G:2  stamps.  Tlie  mills,  liowcver,  have  not  boon  run- 
nine^  rcixnhirly,  havinj;  licen  crectod  in  advance  o(  tlie  dcvehipinent  of  the  mines. 
Of  several  hundred  quartz  veins  hicated  in  the  district  during-  the  excitement  in 
the  sinumer  of  1865,  50  or  more  have  been  partially  developed  and  given  indi-J 
cations  of  value.  1 

'J'liK  I  • .  S.  Grant  Company,  whose  mine  is  situated  six  miles  south  of  Meadow 
T.ake,  and  within  four  miles  of  the  line  of  the  Central  Pacili«  railroad,  has  heen 
the  most  successful  of  any  in  the  district.  The  owners  of  the  mine  have  kept 
a  live-stamp  mill  running  most  of  the  time  during  the  past  year,  and  the  quartz 
■worked  has  paid  largely.  They  are  now  Iniilding  a  larger  mill,  while  the  work 
of  deveK)ping  the  mine  is  continued.  The  Golden  Eagle,  ^lohawk,  Montreal, 
California,  and  Excelsior  companies  have  also  erected  mills  and  made  fair  j)ro- 
gress  in  the  development  of  their  mines. 

The  number  of  men  employed  in  the  mills  and  mines  of  the  district  at  the 
jiresetit  time  is  about  200,  and  the  available  capital  invested  may  be  set  down  at 
S200,0G0.  The  yield  of  gold  this  year  will  be  about  $50,000.  Much  of  the 
labor  and  capital  is  being  expended  in  opening  mines  which  are  not  now  produc- 
tive ;  consequently,  if  the  mines  are  equally  as  good,  the  yield  will  not  be  as 
large  in  proportion  to  the  men  employed  as  in  the  older  districts.  There  are  no 
placer  mines  in  the  district^  or  at  least  none  have  been  discovered. 

Tiihlc  sJiowing  the  number  0^  wen  cmphyed,  the  capital  invested,  and  the  gross  yield 
of  the  mines  of  Ncvadei  counti/,  California. 


Men  em- 
ployed. 

Capital  in- 
vested. 

Gross  yield. 

Placer  and  hydraulic  mines 

2,000 
300 

1,600 
450 
250 

200 
200 

$1,500,000 
400, 000 

2, 000, 000 
500, 000 
200, 000 
200, 000 

1 , 000, 000 

$3, 500, 000 
300, 000 

Ceineut  mines 

Quartz  mines — 

Grass  Valley  districi 

2, 000,  000 

Xevada  d  istrict 

500, 000 

Eureka  district  

200, 000 
50, 000 

Me;ido\v   Lake  district 

Canals  and  ditches. .. 

Totals 

5,000 

5, 800,  000 

G, 550, 000 

XoTE. — In  estimating  the  capital  invested  in  mining,  the  design  has  been  to 
include  the  cost  of  machinery,  tools,  &c.,  as  well  as  the  labor  expended  in  opening 
claims  which  are  now  considered  of  value,  and  excluding  those  that  have  been 
worked  out  or  proved  failures.  The  ditches  might  be  considered  as  a  part  of 
the  capital  invested  in  the  placer  mines,  as  the  water  is  mostly  used  by  the  placer 
and  hydraulic  miners. 


SECTION  X. 

SIERRA  COUNTY. 

The  SieiTa,  the  principal  drift  mining  county  of  California,  lies  l)etween  the 
middle  Yuba  and  Slate  creek.  The  lowest  point  in  the  county  is  probably  2,000 
feet  above  the  sea,  and  most  of  the  mining  camps  are  at  an  elevation  of  4,500 
feet  or  more.  The  surface  is  cut  up  by  runuerous  canons,  about  2,000  feet  deep, 
and  not  one  a<;re  in  50  is  fit  for  the  plough.     There  are  numerous  high  peaks, 


138  KESOUECES    OF   STATES    AND   TERRITORIES 

among  wliicli  are  the  Dounieville  Butte,  8,500  feet ;  Fir  Cap,  Saddle  Back,  Table 
mountain,  and  Mount  Fillmore,  each  about  7,000,  besides  numerous  others.  The 
Dounievillc  Butte  is  one  of  the  landmarks  of  the  State,  being  visible  from  a  large 
area  in  tlje  Sacramento  valley,  and  it  is  remarkable  for  the  ragged  outline  of  its 
Bumrait.  The  county  is  so  rough  that  only  two  wagon  roads  enter  it  west  of  the 
sunnnit  of  the  Sierra,  one  on  the  divide,  between  the  middle  Yuba  and  the  north 
Yuba,  and  another  on  the  divide  between  the  Slate  creek  and  Caiion  creek.  No 
road  crosses  the  county  from  north  to  south.  The  principal  mode  of  travelling 
is  mule-back  riding.  The  snow  is  very  deep  at  the  higher  camp,  lying  in  some 
of  them  three  or  four  months  in  ordinary  winters.  Most  of  the  mines  are  on  old 
channels,  high  above  the  present  streams,  so  high  that  the  introduction  of  water  is 
ver}^  expensive.  There  are  few  ditches,  and  many  claims  are  not  able  to  wash 
more  than  four  or  five  months  in  the  year.  Two  old  channels  cross  the  count}-. 
The  main  Blue  lead,  which  crosses  Nevada  and  Placer,  is  worked  at  Deadwood, 
Sebastopol,  Little  Grizzly,  Excelsior,  Monte  Cristo,  City  of  Six,  Forest  City, 
Chipps  Flat,  and  Minnesota.  All  these  have  been  mined  mainly  by  drifting, 
and  all  save  the  three  first  are  much  less  flourishing  now  than  they  were  from 
six  to  10  years  ago.     This  channel  runs  from  the  northwest  to  the  southeast. 

Another  channel  which  seems  to  ran  from  the  northeast  to  the  southwest, 
passes  tlirough  La  Porte  and  Brandy  City,  thence  to  Camptonville  and  San 
Juan.  This  channel  is  not  covered,  as  the  other  is,  by  heavy  layers  of  tufa,  lava, 
or  volcanic  sand,  and  the  auriferous  gravel  coming  to  the  surface  ofiers  excellent 
opportunites  for  hydraulic  mining,  which  is  or  has  been  carried  on  extensively  at 
all  the  points  named. 

A  channel  found  at  Howland  Flat  and  at  Cold  Canon,  and  another  found  at 
Morristown,  Craig's  Flat,  and  Eureka,  are  supposed  to  be  tributaries  of  the  main 
Blue  lead. 

La  Porte  and  Port  Wine,  which  belonged  to  SieiTa  county  previous  to  1866, 
were  given  to  Plumas  in  that  year  by  a  legislative  act,  which  was  entitled  ''An 
act  to  better  define  the  boundaries  of  Plumas  county,"  and  was  passed  without 
any  suspicion  on  the  part  of  the  representatives  of  Sierra  or  the  members  generally 
that  it  took  a  rich  mining  district  from  the  latter  county. 

The  blue  cement  found  in  the  Blue  lead  in  Sierra  county  is  soft,  and  it  yields 
three-fourths  of  its  gold  or  more  at  the  first  washing,  so  there  is  no  cement  mill 
in  the  county.  In  the  eastern  part  of  tho  county  is  Gold  lake,  which  has  the 
appearance  of  being  in  the  crater  of  an  extinct  volcano. 

A  belt  of  limestone  is  observed  between  Dounievillc  and  the  Sien-a  Butte,  and  it 
may  be  that  tho  belt  which  appears  nearMagalia,  in  Butte  county,  is  the  same. 

The  State  and  county  taxes  in  Sierra  are  62  91  on  $100  of  taxable  property, 
and  tho  county  debt  is  $30,000. 

Bkandy  City. — Brandy  City,  tho  principal  hydi-aulic  camp  of  tho  county, 
uses  about  3,000  inches  of  water  in  piping  claims,  of  which  there  are  twelve, 
some  of  them  using  500  inches.  Tho  lead  is  200  feet.  The  supply  of  gravel 
will  last  10  or  perhaps  20  years. 

'  St.  Louis  and  Neighboring  Towns. — St.  Louis  has  10  or  12  hydraulic 
companies  working,  and  using  in  all  1,000  inches  of  water,  with  a  pressure  of 
100  feet. 

Cedar  Grove  has  drift  diggings,  but  is  doing  nothing  this  year. 

Pino  Grove,  a  mile  below  Howland  Flat,  was  an  important  place  before  1802, 
but  in  that  year  the  latter  town  grew  up,  and  the  former  declined.  All  tho  mining 
is  done  by  (hitting,  save  in  one  piping  claim. 

Ivabbit  Point,  a  mile  below  Pino  Grove,  has  two  hydraulic  claims,  which  are 
100  feet  deep,  and  together  cmplo}^  thirtj'^  men  during  the  water  season,  which 
lasts  three  or  four  months. 

Ohandlerville,  a  furlong  below  Rabbit  Point,  had. rich  hydraulic  claims  from 
1853  to  1857,  but  thoy  aro  now  worked  out. 


WEST    OF   THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  139 

Pine  Grove,  Rabbit  Point,  and  Chandlcnille  together  purchase  700  inches  of 
water  in  the  water  season. 

ilouuiSTOW'X. — The  digg'ings  at  Morristown  arc  remarkable  for  the  presence 
of  hirger  quartz  bouklers,  and  more  of  them  than  any  other  h\dranlic  cUiiius  in  the 
State.  A  stratum  10  or  15  feet  deep  is  made  up  chiefly  of  boukhn'S  that  weigh 
over  a  ton,  many  of  them  being  from  iive  to  10  tons  in  weight. 

There  is  only  one  company,  the  American,  now  piping  in  3Iorristown.  They 
own  all  the  water  that  comes  into  the  place,  and  as  it  runs  only  two  or  three 
months,  they  want  it  all  for  their  own  use.  When  their  Hume  is  full  they  have 
1,000  iuc-lies.  They  employ  40  men  during  the  water  season.  In  18(j  >  they 
took  out  820,000,  and  paid  very  little  dividend.     The  bank  is  50  or  GO  feet  deep. 

MixxESOTA. — At  ^liimesota  the  pay  channel  is  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide,  but 
the  pay  is  not  equally  distributed  over  it,  for  there  are  parts  that  are  baiTcn.  If 
one  side  is  rich  the  other  is  probably  poor;  and  if  much  gold  is  found  on  a  bank 
or  bar,  there  is  little  likelihood  of  finding  a  rich  bed.  The  bed  rock  is  serpentine, 
and  the  pay  stratum  is  from  three  to  five  feet  thick.  The  gravel  is  made  up 
chiefly  of  quartz,  usually  from  two  to  six  inches  in  diameter  ;  and  it  is  soft  enough 
to  wash,  but  so  tough  that  it  is  not  entirely  disintegrated  until  it  has  been  washed 
three  or  four  times.  The  fourth  washing  however  does  not  pay,  and  the  dirt  of 
most  of  the  claims  has  been  washed  only  twice.  The  second  washing  pays  better 
than  the  first.  The  gold  is  coarse,  many  pieces  weighing  an  ounce,  and  it  fre- 
quently happens  that  in  large  lots  of  dust  there  is  not  a  piece  worth  less  than  25 
cents.  Most  of  the  jlieces  are  worth  $2  or  more.  The  sluices  are  usually  about 
400  feet  long,  with  a  grade  of  16  inches  to  12  feet,  and  no  quicksilver  is  used  in 
them.  The  fine  gold  is  lost  in  sluices  so  short  and  steep,  and  tail  sluices  pay 
well.  The  car  load  must  yield  50  cents  or  the  claim  will  not  pay  for  working. 
The  ground  is  solid  and  the  sides  of  the  tunnel  need  no  lagging ;  but  a  cap  sup- 
ported l)y  posts  is  required  to  secure  the  roof.  The  pay  stratum  is  usually  soft 
enough  to  be  picked  down, 

Tlie  Blue  Lead  was  discovered  here  in  1852  by  some  smface  miners  who  fol- 
lowed up  a  rich  deposit  in  Ta^'lor's  ravine  till  it  ran  out,  and  then  they  hunted 
along  the  side  till  they  found  the  place  where  the  lead  went  into  the  hill.  It 
was  very  rich,  and  for  a  long  time  Minnesota  had  some  of  the  best  drift  digging 
in  the  State.  Only  four  claims  are  worked  now.  In  1853  400  miners  were 
employed  here,  and  they  made  on  an  average  $12  or  $15  per  day,  and  now  there 
are  100,  who  average  S3  per  day. 

The  Keystone  Company  have  been  at  work  since  1859,  employ  18  men,  and 
the  yield  is  probably  86  or  $8  to  the  man  per  day. 

The  Wisconsin  Company  have  been  taking  out  pay  most  of  the  timoforeight 
years,  employ  10  men,  and  get  86  or  88  per  day  to  the  man. 

Chipps's  Flat  is  doing  very  little  in  the  way  of  successful  mining,  but  there 
is  some  prospecting  in  progress. 

Alleghany  has  the  credit  of  having  produced  8400,000,  but  the  flush  times 
passed  away  six  or  eight  years  ago.  The  money  was  nearly  all  obtained  by 
drifting,  and  there  was  bad  drainage  and  little  systematic  working.  The  bed 
rock  swells  badly,  and  in  places  the  timbers  must  be  put  in  as  thick  as  they  will 
stand,  and  reset  every  week.  There  were  claims  which  paid  well,  h\it  when 
work  was  stopped  not  half  of  the  pay  dirt  was  extracted. 

A  company  called  the  Alleghany  Consolidated  Mining  Company  has  been 
formed  to  rework  this  ground.  They  have  purchased  eighty  acres  of  claims,  and 
are  about  to  commence  the  cutting  of  a  tunnel  to  be  largo  enough  to  use  mules 
for  hauling  in  the  cars.     They  will  run  out  by  their  own  weight. 

In  1858  there  were  18  tunnel  companies  at  Alleghany,  all  paying;  now  only 
25  men  are  at  work  there.  4 

Water  was  supplied  by  a  very  costly  ditch,  which  was  allowed  to  go  to  ruin 
when  the  miners  had  no  longer  any  considerable  quantity  of  dirt  to  wash. 


140 


RESOUSCES    OP   STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 


Tlie  Orec:on  Company  took  out  $400,000;  the  Buckeye  $200,000,  and  the 
Empire  $200,000. 

The  Blue  Lead  was  found  at  Forest  City  hy  the  Dutch  Company,  which  obtained 
two  or  three  ounces  to  the  pan,  and  brought  water  to  their  sluice  in  a  canvas 
flume. 

The  claims  at  Forest  City  arc  situated  on  the  south  side  of  a  ravine,  north  of 
which  the  lead  has  not  been  found,  although  a  tunnel  has  been  run  half  a  mile 
into  the  hill. 

At  one  time  there  were  20  companies  working  at  Forest  City  and  all  making 
money,  and  now  there  is  only  one  at  work. 

Live  Yankee  Claim. — The  principal  claim  at  Forest  City  is  the  Live  Yankee, 
which  has  360  feet  of  front  and  a  depth  of  2,600.  The  following  table  shows 
the  receipts,  expenses,  and  dividends,  from  1854  till  1863,  inclusive: 


Receipts. 


Expenses. 


Dividends. 


1854 

1855 

J856 

51857 

1858 

1859 

18()0 

»66i...-:.. 

1862 

1863 

Total 


$15,243 
95,713 
85, 921 
95, 806 
84, 875 

129, 937 
84,120 
60,092 
30, 720 
31 , 350 


713,777 


$7, 152 
32,  385 
42,691 
55,616 
43, 973 
67,  303 
40, 236 
38,192 
26, 970 
22, 800 


377, 318 


$8,091 
63, 328 
43, 230 
40,190 
41,902 
62, 634 
43, 8S4 
21, 900 
3, 750 
8,550 


336, 459 


Since  1863  the  dividends  have  been  about  $10,000  per  year.  The  expense 
of  keeping  up  the  mine  is  considerable.  There  is  a  very  long  tunnel  and  a  long 
track,  that  need  frequent  repairs. 

HiGHLAKD  AND  Masoxic. — The  Highland  and  Masonic  claim,  near  Forest 
City,  was  worked  at  first  through  a  shaft  368  feet  deep.  There  was  much  water 
in  the  channel,  and  steam-pumping  and  hoisting  works  were  erected  at  a  cost 
of  $75,000.  The  yield  was  $300,000,  but  the  expenses  were  so  great  that  little 
if  any  profit  was  left ;  and  the  works  stopped,  and  the  hoisting  works  were  bunied 
down.  The  claim  was  sold  for  debt,  and  the  new  proprietor  bought  three  claims 
in  fi'ont  and  a  bed  rock  tunnel  4,000  feet  long,  and  by  extending  the  tunnel  the 
claim  was  worked  at  much  less  expense.  The  yield  was  $100,000  per  month  for 
a  time.  It  is  said  that  under  the  new  management  the  expenses  have  been 
$8,000  or  $10,000  more  than  the  receipts.  Nevertheless,  some  dividends  have 
been  paid.  Some  shares  of  the  claim  are  in  litigation,  and  it  is  not  easy  to  ascer- 
tain the  precise  production.  The  water  in  this  claim  is  acidulous,  and  a  piece 
of  sheet  zinc  left  in  it  entirely  disappears  in  a  day  or  two,  and  iron  shovels  are 
made  worthless  in  a  few  daj's. 

MoNTECRiSTO. — At  ^loutecristo  the  channel  is  200  yards  wide,  but  the  pay  is 
only  half  as  wide,  and  is  in  a  stratum  three  feet  deep.  The  pajMS  usually  in  the 
middle  of  the  channel.  The  gold  was' obtained  by  drifting  until  1862,  when 
piping  was  commenced,  but  the  supply  of  water  never  exceeds  300  inches,  and 
does  not  last  long,  so  there  cannot  be  much  hydraulic  washing  there.  The  bed 
rock  sw(>lls,  and  most  of  the  tunnels  were  allowed  to  close  up  three  years  ago, 
so  that  though  there  were  300  miners  in  1857,  there  are  now  only  a  dozen. 

Deai>W00D. — Dcadwood  is  on  the  ridge  between  the  north  fork  of  the  Yuba 
and  Cauon  creek,  about  6,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  it  has  an  old  channel,  the 
extent  and  character  of  which  are  not  yet  proved,  but  it  is  supposed  to  be  in  tlie 


WEST  OF  THE  KOCKY  MOUNTAINS.  141 

main  Blue  Lead.  The  Dcadwood  claim,  700  feet  front  on  this  old  channel, 
has  boon  worked  since  1850,  has  cost  8115,000,  and  has  yielded  $10,000.  Some 
y;ood  pavol  has  been  found,  but  it  does  not  appear  to  bo  in  a  continuous  lead. 
Firtoon  nion  are  now  employed  in  prospecting.  There  are  three  tunnels,  one 
2,500,  one  2,200,  and  one  1J200  foot  hma;. 

Vin  Cap,  fc)Ki5AST()roL,  and  Grizzly. — At  Fir  Cap  Camp,.on  the  south  side 
of  Fir  Cap  mountain,  there  is  an  old  channel  in  which  sonu;  very  rich  .^'ravel  has 
been  founil  lately. 

iSebastopdl,  on  the  south  side  of  the  ridge,  between  the  North  Yuba  and 
Canon  crook,  is  supposed  to  be  on  the  main  Bk;e  Lead.  Minors  have  been 
engaged  in  prospocling  ami  mining — chiotly  prospecting — since  1854,  and  the 
exjienses  have  been  double  the  receipts.     Tlu'ce  long  tunnels  have  been  j-un. 

Little  Grizzly,  on  the  north  side  of  the  same  ridge,  and  on  the  same  channel, 
has  spent  $100,000,  and  taken  out  about  as  much.  The  New  Orleans  Company 
struck  pay  gravel  in  18G6,  and  are  doing  tolerably  well  now. 

Cold  Canon. — Cold  Canon,  sixteen  miles  northward  from  Dov;nicville,  and 
on  the  southeast  side  of  the  ridge  between  Canon  creek  and  Slate  creek,  is  directly 
opposite  to  Ilowland  Flat,  on  the  same  ridge,  and  apparently  on  the  same  chan- 
nel. The  claims  at  both  places  are  worked  by  drifting,  and  the  tunnels  of  each 
])lace  ])oint  in  the  direction  of  the  other  as  if  they  would  meet.  The  channel 
ap})ears  to  bo  800  or  1,000  feet  wide,  and  the  course  at  Cold  Calion  is  south  76° 
east.  The  grade  is  from  five  to  seven  feet  in  a  hundred.  The  pay  is  best  where 
the  boulders  are  largest,  and  the  general  width  of  the  pay  is  200  feet,  and  its 
depth  from  three  to  live  feet.  Over  tiie  pay  stratum  is  a  deposit  of  gravel  that 
Avould  })ay  well  if  it  were  accessible  with  a  hydraulic  pipe.  A  stratum  (jf  pipe- 
clay from  20  to  GO  feet  deep,  and  another  of  volcanic  conglomerate  500  or  600  feet 
dee]),  are  the  su{)enncumbent  matter. 

The  character  of  the  gravel,  of  the  gold  in  it,  and  of  the  various  strata,  arc 
the  same  as  at  Montecristo. 

Fashiox  Claim. — The  Fashion  Company,  at  Cold  Canon,  have  a  claim  954 
feet  in  front  by  about  4,000  feet  deep.  Work  was  commenced  in  1856,  in  which 
year  400  feet  of  tunnel  were  cut,  at  a  cost  of  $10,000.  In  1857  286  feet  more 
cut,  at  a  cost  of  $5,000,  bringing  the  company  into  pay.  Then  it  was  necessary 
to  build  a  dump-house  and  sluice,  and  make  other  preparations  to  wash,  at  a  cost 
of  §50,000.  In  1858  the  receipts  were  880,000,  and  the  dividends  $18,000  ;  in 
1850,  receipts  $60,000,  and  dividends  nothing ;  in  1860,  receipts  $45,000,  divi- 
dends 81,000  ;  and  from  1858  till  July,  1867,  the  total  receipts  were  8430,000, 
and  the  total  dividends  $45,000.  In  1865  and  1866  the  company  took  out  no 
pay,  but  now  they  again  have  good  gravel. 

The  gravel  yields  $1  50  to  a  car  load,  the  estimated  weight  of  which  is  3,000 
pounds,  llalf  that  yield  would  pay  expenses.  There  have  been  jdaces  in  the 
claim  that  paid  84  jier  car  load.  The  working  tunnel  is  3,300  feet  long.  The 
sj)ace  worked  out  is  2,000  feet  long  by  dOO  wide.  Twenty-five  men  arc  now 
employed.  Gold  is  found  tlu'ce  or  four  inches  deep  in  the  bed  rock,  but  the 
miners  dig  up  a  foot  and  a  half  of  it  for  convenience  of  working,  as  it  is  softei 
than  the  baiTcn  gravel,  and  the  pay  gravel  is  not  deep  enough  for  them  to  work  in. 
The  bed  rock  swells  badly  for  six  or  eight  months  after  the  drifts  are  cut.  Tlio 
)x>sts  in  the  tunnels  are  crowded  together  at  the  bottom  by  the  swelling,  so  the 
tinmel  is  cut  nine  feet  wide  atlhe  bottom  and  four  feet  at  the  top,  with  the  posts 
strad<lling  out  at  an  angle  of  5-5°.  In  a  few  weeks  or  a  few  montlis  the  posts  arc 
n(^ar!y  perpendicular,  and  they  may  have  to  be  set  back  at  the  bottom  several 
times  before  they  get  right.  Drifts  are  run  through  the  pay  dirt  Vvilli  a  breast 
30  loot  wide  on  each  side,  and  two  men  work  at  each  breast. 

Siekka  Claim. — The  Sien-a  Company,  1,800  feet  iront  by  a  nille  deep,  is 
the  only  company  besides  the  Fashion  at  Cold  caiiou.  The  company  commenced 
w  nk  in  1858,  and  in  1864  they  reached  pay  in  a  tunnel  3,000  feet  long,  after 


142  EESOUECES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

spending  $70,000.  Since  tlicy  began  to  wasli  their  expenditures  have  been 
greater  by  85,000  than  their  receipts;  so  they  are  now,  at  the  end  of  nine  years, 
$75,000  out  of  cash,  exclusive  of  interest.  Tlie  claim,  however,  is  valuable,  and 
will  last  twenty  years.  The  working  of  the  last  three  years  would  have  been 
prolitable  if  the  company  had  not  changed  the  gi'ade  of  their  tunnel  and  raised 
up,  so  that  they  got  too  high  for  drainage  and  for  easy  transportation  of  their 
gravel.  They  have  lost  much  time  and  labor,  and  have  had  to  go  back  and  ran 
in  on  the  original  level  at  a  cost  of  810,000.  Their  receipts  now  are  846,000 
per  year.  Their  expenses  are  $35,000  for  labor,  at  83  50  and  84  per  day ;  83,500 
for  timber  delivered,  81,200  for  candles,  8300  for  oil  for  cars,  8100  for  steel  rope, 
and  85,000  for  other  materials,  including  powder. 

Twenty-five  men  are  emploj'cd ;  and  two  of  them  are  kept  busy  repairing  the 
tunnel  and  the  track,  principally  on  account  of  the  swelling  of  the  bed  rock;  60 
car-loads  of  gravel,  weighing  3,000  pomids  each,  are  extracted  every  day;  100 
loads  are  thrown  into  a  dump-box,  and  then  the  mass  is  piped  away.  The  sluice  is 
500  feet  long,  and  75  per  cent,  of  the  gold  is  obtained  in  the  first  three  boxes. 
The  gravel,  after  passing  through  the  sluice,  is  saved  and  is  washed  a  second 
time,  but  97  per  cent,  of  all  saved  is  caught  at  the  first  washing.  Chinamen, 
however,  catch  the  tailings  in  the  creek  after  the  second  washing  and  put  them 
through  the  sluice  again.     The  space  worked  out  so  far  is  500  by  100  feet. 

Howla:n'D  Flat. — Howland  Flat  is  now  the  most  prosperous  mining  camp 
in  the  SieiTa  and  the  most  productive  drifting  camp  in  the  State,  unless  Fir  Cap 
has  surpassed  it.  The  .shipment  of  gold  this  year  will  be  about  $300,000;  it 
was  twice  as  much  annually  for  four  years  previous  to  1S66.  The  shipment  for 
February,  1867,  was  823,000;  for  March,  $10,000  ;  for  April,  824,000;  for  May, 
$31,000;  for  June,  831,000. 

The  flat  from  which  the  place  obtained  its  name  is  worked  out,  or,  at  least, 
has  been  worked  over  by  drifting.  It  would,  perhaps,  pay  for  piping  on  an 
extensive  scale.  The  diggings  now  worked  are  under  Table  mountain,  and  are 
of  the  class  knowTi  as  hill  diggings.  They  are  in  an  old  channel  from  400  to 
700  feet  wide,  with  a  pay  stratum  from  three  and  a  half  to  ten  feet  deep.  The 
boulders  in  this  stratum  are  all  of  quartz,  some  of  which  weigh  a  ton.  The  best 
pay  is  among  boulders  weighing  from  100  to  500  pounds.  There  are  large  quan- 
tities of  sulphurets  in  the  gravel,  and  it  would  probably  pay  to  collect  them  by 
concentration. 

The  Snow  at  Howlaxd  Flat. — The  town  is  situated  about  6,000  feet 
above  the  sea,  on  the  north  side  of  Table  mountain,  which  is  a  rallying  point  for 
snow-storms,  and  snow-drifts  collect  deeply  on  its  northern  slope  every  winter. 
Rain  is  comparatively  rare,  and  there  have  been  %vinters  almost  without  rain, 
though  snow  was  abundant.  Last  winter  snow  fell  about  16  feet  deep  on  a  level 
near  Howland  Flat,  but  by  drifting  it  got  25  feet  deep  in  the  town,  and  it  lay  in 
the  streets  till  the  1st  of  June,  and  deep  drifts  were  still  l}nng  on  the  mountain 
side  within  half  a  mile  in  the  middle  of  July.  For  three  months  the  snow  was 
so  deep  that  most  of  tlie  chimneys  were  below  its  level,  and  people  went  fi'om 
house  to  house  either  through  tunnels  or  by  climbing  up  to  the  house-tops  and 
going  over  the  surface. 

Last  winter  an  open  reservoir  100  feet  square,  containing  running  water,  could 
not  be  found,  although  a  pole  20  feet  high  had  been  fastened  on  it  to  mark  the 
place.  The  water  in  this  resei'\-ou-  was  eight  feet  deep,  and  was  supplied  by 
springs,  and  a  steady  stream  ran  from  it.  The  snow  over  it  was  white,  as  clear 
and  as  hard  as  that  over  the  adjacent  land,  and  several  attempts  to  find  it  were 
vain.  The  water  was  several  times  exhausted,  but  the  snow  did  not  change  its 
place  or  its  appearance. 

'The  abundance  of  the  snow  and  its  long  duration  renders  it  necessary  for  the 
people  to  accustom  themselves  to  snow-shoes,  and  snow-shoe  races  are  the  chief 
amusement  in  the  winter.     People  travel  20  or  30  miles  across  the  country  to  see 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


143 


tliein,  and  larcro  sums  arc  Let  on  tlie  results.  The  racing  j^ronnd  is  always  on  a 
lonfi^  slcipe,  down  whicb  tlio  racers  slide  at  a  speed  that  soiiietinies  rcaclies'a  mile 
a  minute.  Tlie  shoes  arc  thin  pine  boards,  12  or  IG  feet  long,  4  inches  wide, 
turned  up  at  the  toe. 

l^xiox  Claim. — The  principal  claim  at  ITowland  Flat  is  the  Union,  2,000 
feet  in  front  by  3,300  deej).  The  Bright  Star  Company  began  work  in  IS-IV, 
and  in  1859  they  failed,  with  debts  amounting  to  $10,000,  and  they  had  paid 
$50,000  as  assessments.  'I'lie  Union  Company  succeeded  to  the  ownersliip  of 
the  mine,  and  spent  830,000  over  and  above  receipts,  and  did  not  get  any  divi- 
dends until  two  years  later.  Four  years'  time  and  $120,000  of  cash  were  required 
to  bring  the  mine  into  a  paying  condition. 

It  is  n<iw  trying  to  make  amends.  Its  total  yield  has  been  about  $900,000. 
The  vield  for  the  last  IS  months  has  been  as  follows: 


• 

Yield. 

Car  loads. 

Wages. 

Ounces. 

Value. 

First  hftlf  of  1866 

3,181 

2,870 
3, 1831 

$56,680  44 
50,660  00 
57, 307  50 

41,950 
33, 160 

48, 107 

$27,150 
22  223 

Second  half  of  1866 

First  half  of  1867 

29, 556 

Eighty  men  arc  employed,  at  from  $3  to  $3  50  per  day.  The  cost  per  car- 
load, exclusive  of  labor,  is  10  cents.  Round  timbers,  from  12  to  18  inches  in 
diameter,  and  from  five  to  eight  feet  long,  for  gangwaj^s  and  tunnels,  cost  CO 
cents  each.  Breasting  posts,  eight  inches  square  and  from  three  to  seven  feet 
long,  cost  12  cents  each.  Caps,  30  inches  long,  12  -wide,  and  6  thick,  cost  12 
cents  each.  Lagging,  six  feet  long,  five  inches  wide,  and  an  inch  and  a  balf 
thick,  cost  four  and  a  half  cents  each.  The  cost  of  all  the  material  is  lumped  at 
§10.000  per  year. 

The  bed  rock  swells,  and  the  tunnel  is  cut  10  feet  wide  at  the  bottom,  and 
four  at  the  top.  In  six  months  the  sides  are  nearly  perpendicular,  the  bottom 
being  in  the  bed  rock  and  the  top  in  the  pay  dirt,  which  does  not  swell.  The 
timbers  are  usually  forced  into  the  bottom  by  the  swelling  of  the  bed  rock,  and 
not  broken ;  the  rock  seldom  swells,  except  near  the  pay.  In  some  places  the 
posts  must  be  set  back  in  two  months;  in  others,  in  a  year. 

An  air  tunnel  four  by  three  feet  is  cut  20  feet  above  the  pay;  30  feet  is  left 
on  each  side  of  the  main  tunnel  for  support.  The  dirt  is  hoisted  on  an  incline  by 
a  Fredenbur  wheel,  driven  by  40  inches  of  water',  under  a  pressure  of  124  feet. 
The  water  after  leaving  the  wheel  is  used  to  wash  the  dirt.  There  are  1,200 
feet  of  sluices.  It  is  estimated  that  there  is  pay  gravel  in  sight  enough  to  last 
eight  years.  Ventilation  is  secured  by  having  an  air  drift  20  feet  over  the  work- 
ing timnel,  communicating  with  an  air  shaft  200  feet  deep.  The  gravel  is  taken 
out  through  drifts  or  gangways  50  feet  apart,  with  breasts  25  feet  wide  on  each 
side.  In  1861  the  company  obtained  the  privilege  of  drainage  through  the  Down- 
East  Company's  claim  adjoining,  by  paying  $2,000  and  giving  a  strip  of  ground 
75  feet  wide  and  3,400  feet  long.  Thus  a  great  expense  previously  incurred  for 
pumping  was  avoided. 

Otheu  Claims. — The  Pittsburg  Company  have  800  feet  front,  have  been  at 
work  since  1860,  have  extracted  8500,000,  have  paid  $40,000  of  dividends,  and 
having  exhausted  the  pay  in  sight,  are  now  running  for  another  channel. 

The  Hawk  Eye  Company  have  800  feet  front  by  3,500  feet  deep.  They 
began  work  in  1857  and  reached  pay  in  1861,  after  spending  $30^000.  Since 
then  they  have  taken  out  $300,000,  but  the  dividends  have  not  been  over  five  per 
cent,  of  the  receipts,  and  the  company  are  out  of  pocket.     They  made  the  mistake 


144  EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

of  opening  the  mine  on  the  nppcr  side,  so  they  had  no  drainage.  They  cut  a 
drain  tunnel  through  Union  claim,  but  it  closed  up  in  December,  1866.  They 
are  now  rimning  a  new  drain  tunnel,  to  be  finished  in  three  years,  to  cost  $30,000, 
and  to  be  3,000  feet  long. 

The  Down-East  Company,  who  have  a  frontage  of  350  feet,  commenced  work 
in  1855.  There  are  12  shareholders,  all  of  whom  work  in  the  mine,  and  they 
lii.e  no  labor.  The  claim  pays  about  $2,000  a  year  over  ordinary  wages.  The 
total  yield  has  been  $425,000,  and  8240,000  have  been  paid  out  as  dividends. 
There  is  enoiigli  pay  dirt  in  sight  to  last  three  years. 

The  Hibernia  claim,  600  feet  in  front  and  wider  at  the  back,  w^as  opened  in 
1862  l)y  a  shaft  180  feet  deep,  and  after  being  worked  two  years  was  sold  by  the 
sheriff,  and  was  purchase^l  bv  the  Shirley  Company.  The  total  yield  has  been 
$125,000.  The  first  company  lost  $40,000  in  the  mine;  the  second  is  making 
a  moderate  profit.  There  is  enough  pay  dirt  to  last  a  year.  There  are  twelve 
shareholders,  who  work  in  the  mine,  and  they  employ  three  or  four  Chinamen  .as 
cannen  and  pumpers  at  $1  75  per  day. 

The  Ohio  claim  is  undeveloped.  The  Black  Ball  was  bought  by  the  Shu-ely 
Company  and  worked  out  by  them.  The  Sierra,  Wild  Rover,  and  Wisconsin 
claims  are  undeveloped. 

The  Sugar  Loaf  Company  have  been  at  work  eight  or  nine  yeai's,  have  pay 
gravel  to  last  three  or  four  years  longer,  and  have  not  taken  out  much  more 
than  enough  to  pay  expenses.  Some  of  the  company  work  in  the  mine.  The 
company  have  a  second  claim  (numbered  24  on  the  diagram)  which  has  yielded 
$120,000  in  all,  and  $25,000  of  dividends.  Part  of  the  Nevada  claim  has  been 
worked;  the  Hollins  is  undeveloped.  The  Shirley  claim  has  been  worked  out, 
yielding  $100,000  gross,  and  $20,000  net;  it  was  worked  four  years.  The 
Mountaineer  claim  was  opened  in  1859,  and  is  now  nearly  exhausted;  the  dirt 
was  brought  through  a  shaft  by  an  engine;  the  yield  was  $200,000,  aud  the 
dividends  10  per  cent,  of  that  sum.  The  Last  Chance  claira  was  worked  out 
by  the  Mountaineer  Company. 

The  French  Company  opened  their  claim  in  1862  by  a  shaft,  but  were  com- 
pelled by  water  to  abandon  it.  They  started  again  by  a  shaft,  in  1864,  and  made 
it  pay  expenses.  In  June,  1867,  they  bought  the  Sugar  Loaf  tunnel,  and  intend 
to  extend  it  so  as  to  drain  their  claim.     Their  pay  will  last  fom-  or  five  years. 

The  Mountain  Ranger  claijn  has  been  worked  out,  paying  no  profit.  The 
Wabash  Company  worked  two  or  three  years  and  lost  $20,000.  The  Empire  and 
Tip  Top  claims  were  rich,  and  were  worked  six  or  eight  years  ago. 

Adjoining  the  Pittsburgh  on  the  east  is  the  Jlonumental  claim,  1,200  feet  in 
front.  The  tunnel  was  stfuted  in  1863,  and  after  running  2,400  feet  it  struck 
rich  gi'avel  this  year.  The  comjiany  arc  now  raising  an  air  shaft  to  be  300  feet 
high,  and  to  cost  $3,000.  The  dump-houses,  sluices,  stock  of  timber,  cai's,  &c., 
necessary  as  a  preparation  for  washing,  will  cost  $15,000.  The  expense  of  the 
tunnel  was  $25,000,  l)ut  the  Empire  Company,  which  intends  to  use  it  for  drain- 
age, has  contributed  $10,000  towards  it. 

'JMie  iMupire  Company  have  1,000  feet  front,  M"ith  the  privilege  of  working  and 
draining  through  the  ]\lonumental  tunnel ;  but  they  must  cut  a  tunnel  1,200  feet 
long,  at  a  cost  of  $20,000,  to  reach  their  pay.  They  m-e  about  to  commence  that 
connecting  tunnel. 

The  Virginia  began  to  prospect,  but  after  expending  $5,000  had  to  (piit  for 
lack  of  drainage.  The  Nebraska  Company  began  a  tunnel,  but  got  into  very 
hard  rock,  and  gave  it  up  after  expending  $10,000.  'J'he  Ch-oss  Oompany  began 
a  tunnel  in  1856,  have  gone  in  1,200  feet,  expended  $55,000,  and  are  now  work- 
ing for  wages  to  get  the  means  of  continuing  their  tunnel,  which  is  still  in  the 
bed-rock. 

Quartz  in  Sikkra  County. — Sien-a  has  very  few  quartz  mines  that  are  now 
profitable,  but  among  those  few  are  several  that  desei"ve  to  be  classed  among 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  145 

the  host  in  the  Stato.  Tliere  is  (ino  sot  of  (jiiart/.  irgiilations  for  the  whole  connty, 
ami  those  wore  jiiiMished  in  the  report  of  186G.  Some  rich  veins  have  been 
diseovereil  near  Clohl  Lake,  but  they  have  nt)t  been  devehtped  sufliciently  to 
prove  their  ponnanent  vahio. 

SiKRRA  BuTTES. — The  Sierra  Bnttes,  or,  as  it  is  also  called,  the  Reis  mine,  is 
2,000  feet  loncf,  and  is  situated  15  miles  east  of  Downieville,  and  the  oflice  is 
5,100  feet  above  the  sea.  The  elevation  has  commonly  lieen  placed  at  7,200 
loot,  but  l)arometrical  observations  have  proved  that  the  latter  figures  are  incorrect. 
The  situation  is  on  a  steep  mountain  side,  1,500  feet  a])ove  the  valley  of  the 
South  Yuba,  so  steep  that  there  is  no  wagon  road  near  it.  All  the  supplies  are 
brought  by  pack  animals — even  the  tire-wood  cut  in  the  immediate  vicinity. 

The  mine  is  situated  on  a  lode  which  is  split  up  into  several  branches;  the 
width  from  wall  to  wall  being  from  70  to  100  feet,  and  of  this  width  from  40  to 
70  feet  is  quartz,  with  intervening  horses  or  beds  of  hard  blue  slate  of  the  same 
character  as  the  walls.  In  some  places  there  are  two  and  in  others  six  branches. 
The  course  of  the  lode  is  a  few  degrees  north  of  west,  and  the  dip  is  40°  to  the 
northward.  Six  pay  chimneys  have  been  found,  one  of  them  500  feet  long  hori- 
zontally. All  these  chimneys  are  vertical;  the  pay  is  iiTegular  in  them,  skipping 
from  one  branch  to  another ;  if  the  chimney  disappears  in  one  branch,  the  minera 
look  for  it  in  the  other  branch.     No  pay  chimney  gives  out. 

All  the  rock  is  extracted  through  tunnels,  of  which  there  are  six,  the  lowest 
one  being  225  feet  above  the  upper  mill,  the  distance  from  which  to  the  upper- 
most workings  is  1,100  feet,  and  to  the  bottom  of  the  mountain  is  1,500  feet  perpen- 
dicularly, or  2,200  feet  follo^\'ing  the  dip  of  the  vein,  so  that  there  is  a  probability 
of  opening  and  draining  the  mine  to  a  depth  of  3,000  feet  by  tunnels.  There  are 
about  40,000  tons  of  pay  rock  now  in  sight,  enough  to  keep  the  mills  going  three 
years,  and  to  pay  $G0,000  of  profit.  The  lower  tunnel  is  being  extended,  and 
if  that  should  strike  the  same  pay  chimueys  found  above,  with  the  same  size  and 
quality,  the  stock  of  good  ore  in  sight  will  be  200,000  tons,  enough  to  employ 
tlie  mills  15  years,  and  to  pay  $3,000,000.  This  is  the  most  extensive  and  most 
promising  yjroject  now  in  progress  in  the  State  in  the  matter  of  opening  a  mine. 

The  mine  was  taken  up  in  1857,  and  has  been  worked  ever  since — previous  to 
1857  with  arrastras;  from  1857  to  1860,  with  eight  stamps,  five  an-astras  and 
two  Chile  rollers;  from  1860  to  1867,  with  24  stamps;  and  since  June,  1867, 
with  28  stamps.  From  1853  to  1857,  six  tons  were  reduced  per  day,  or  1,500 
tons  per  year;  from  1857  to  1860,  6,000  tons  per  year;  from  1860  to  1864, 
10,000  tons  ;  from  1864  to  1866,  12,000  tons;  and  the  present  crashing  is  at  the 
rate  of  14,000  tonsj)er  year. 

The  average  yield  of  the  quartz  has  been  from  $15  to  $17  per  ton.  In  1866 
it  was  over  $17.  In  the  last  report  the  receipts,  expenses  and  dixidends  were 
given  year  by  year  from  1857  to  1865,  showing  aggregates  of  $1,120,000  receipts, 
$385,000  expenses,  and  $735,000  dividends. 

In  1866  the  receipts  were  $224,000 ;  expenditures,  $70,000 ;  dividends,  $144,000, 
and  $10,000  were  retained  in  tlie  treasury  more  than  at  the  end  of  1865.  The 
yield  during  the  first  nine  months  of  1867  was  $156,000,  and  the  dividend  v>as 
$87,000.  The  yield  previous  to  1857  is  estimated  at  $250,000,  and  the  total 
vield  from  the  discovery  to  the  1st  October,  1867,  $1,75,000,  and  the  dividends 
since  1857,  $966,000. 

The  yield  previous  to  1857  is  estimated  at  $250,000,  and  the  total  yield  from 
the  discoverv  to  the  1st  of  October,  1867,  $1,750,000,  and  the  dividends,  since 
1857,  $966,000. 

Previous  to  1857  the  quartz  was  assorted  carefully,  and  al»out  $40  yvv  ton  was 
obtained  from  all  worked  in  1856,  and  probably  as  much  in  1854  and  1855.  The 
largest  dividend  in  any  year  before  1866  was  $150,000,  in  1861,  showing  that 
the  profit  of  1866  was  nearly  fifty  per  cent,  greater  than  that  of  any  ]in'vious  year. 

There  are  two  mills,  one  of  16  and  the  other  of  12  stamps,  both  driven  by  the 

lU 


146  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

same  water,  one  being  below  the  other,  in  the  ravine.  Amalgamation  is  effected  in 
the  mortar  and  on  copper  aprons,  after  leaving  which  the  tailings  ai'e  ground  in  17 
arraiptras  on  shares.  Three  companies,  with  four  an-astras  each,  pay  a  quarter 
of  their  receipts  to  the  Sieri-a  Buttes  Company,  which  derived  S3, 000  in  all  from 
that  soiu-ce  in  1S66  ;  and  there  are  five  arrastras  below,  which  pay  S40  in  all  per 
month.  These  17  arrastras  are  all  placed  in  the  ra^^ne,  one  below  another,  so 
that  all  are  driven  by  the  same  water.  The  amis  to  which  the  mullers  are 
attached  are  also  the  arms  of  the  driving  wheel,  which  is  horizontal,  with  perpen- 
dicular l)uclvets  against  which  the  water  rushes  under  a  pressure.  The  bottom 
and  sides  and  mullers  of  the  arrastras  are  of  greenstone. 

In  the  summer  60  men  are  employed,  and  in  the  winter  from  52  to  54.  There 
are  28  miners,  10  carmen  and  transporters,  nine  men  in  the  mills,  two  carpenters, 
two  blacksmiths,  two  cooks,  and  several  packers. 

IxDEPEXDEXCE. — The  independence  mine,  4,500  feet  long,  adjoining  the 
Sien-a  Buttes  mine  on  the  west,  on  the  same  lode,  has  the  cliff  and  serial  branches, 
but  not  the  rose,  as  found  in  the  Sien'a  Buttes  mine — or  rather,  the  rose  is  found, 
but  it  has  no  regularity  or  importance.  The  cliff  and  serial  have  the  same  general 
characteristics  here  as  in  the  adjoining  claim,  but  they  seem  to  be  distinguished 
b}''  the  occurrence  of  regular  pay  chimneys  in  the  cliff  and  of  pockets  in  the 
serial.  If  a  pocket  is  found  in  the  serial  near  the  hanging  wall,  the  cliff  opposite 
is  rich  on  the  foot  wall.  The  work  is  confined  chiefly  to  the  cliff,  which  here 
has  a  yellow  riljbon  rock.  The  thickness  of  the  quartz  varies  from  3  to  22  feet. 
A  depth  of  310  feet  has  been  reached,  and  800  feet  have  been  run  on  the  vein. 
There  are  three  pay  chimneys,  the  largest  one  400  feet  long  horizontally.  They 
are  nearly  vertical,  but  dip  a  little  to  the  west. 

There  is  two  per  cent,  of  sulplmretsiu  the  quartz;  they  contain  on  an  average 
$75  per  ton  ;  and  the  superintendent  says  they  are  so  magnetic  that  three-fourths 
of  the  particles  will  adhere  to  the  magnet. 

The  total  yield  in  1866  was  SlOS^OOO;  the  average  yield  per  ton  SlO,  and 
there  is  enough  ore  in  sight  of  that  quality  to  last  three  years. 

The  first  mill,  erected  in  1856,  began  to  run  in  February,  1857,  and  was 
burned  down;  the  second  mill  was  injured  twice  by  avalanches  of  snow;  the 
third  mill,  built  in  1861,  and  now  rimning,  has  24  stamps,  and  is  driven  by  two 
overshot  wheels,  each  32^  feet  in  diameter,  both  gearing  into  the  same  pinion- 
wheel,  and  both  driven  by  the  same  water,  one  being  immediately  over  the  other. 
As  the  mill  is  1,500  feet  above  the  south  branch  of  the  North  Yuba  river,  on  a 
very  steep  hillside,  thousands  of  stamps  could  be  driven  by  wheels  placed  one 
below  another  on  the  steep  ravine. 

The  mine  can  be  opened  1,000  feet  below  the  present*  working  levels  by 
tunnels.  The  ore  now  obtained  is  extracted  through  a  tunnel,  to  which  it  is 
hoisted  by  steam.  Amalgamation  is  effected  in  the  mortar  and  on  copper  aprons, 
below  which  are  blankets;  and  the  tailings  from  these,  after  having  lain  a  week 
to  oxydise,  are  thrown  into  the  battery,  and  it  is  supposed  that  $40  or  S50  per 
ton  are  obtained  from  them.     They  are  never  worked  separately. 

In  extremely  cold  weather  not  so  much  gold  is  obtained  as  in  summer,  and 
the  loss  is  estimated  at  three  per  cent.  Since  1856,  875,000  have  been  expended 
on  buildings,  $27,000  on  flumes,  and  $5,000  on  roads. 

Keystone. — The  Keystone  mine,  15  miles  eastward  from  Do^^^lieville,  has  a 
lode  from  two  to  six  feet  wide,  runnhig  east  and  west,  and  nearly  vertical.  The 
walls  are  of  black  slate,  and  the  quaitz  is  a  j'ellow  ribbon  rock.  There  is  no 
barren  vein-stone,  the  walls  pinching  together  at  the  ends  of  the  three  pay  chim- 
neys, which  go  down  perpendicularly.  A  depth  of  550  feet  has  been  reached, 
and  di'ifts  have  been  run  500  feet  on  the  vein.  A  tunnel,  to  be  700  feet  long', 
has  been  started  to  strike  the  vein  300  feet  below  the  present  workings.  It  has 
already  gone  in  400  feet.  The  gold  is  fine  and  free  and  evenly  distributed 
tlurough  the  pay  chinine}',  except  one  streak  in  the  middle,  which  is  the  richest. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  147 

The  senilis  in  tlu'  ([imrtz.  iiistoad  ufboinc^  itarallcl  \vitli  tlio  dirt'ctiou  of  the  vein, 
cross  at  an  aiii^le.  The  avera,<^e  yiehi  is  817  })er  ton,  and  If)  tons  are  erushed 
per  day.  The  mill  was  erected  in  1857,  with  eiijjlit  stamps,  and  four  were  added 
in  18G(),  makiiii,'  12  in  all.  The  pulp  is  amalsjfamated  in  the  mortar  and  on  cop- 
per aprons,  from  which  it  passes  over  blankets,  and  the  tailinijs  from  these  are 
worked  in  Knox's  pan. 

Pri.mkose. — The  Primrose,  3,700  feet  long,  is  two  miles  north  of  the  Sierra 
Buttes,  on  a  vein  which  runs  east  and  w'est,  dips  a  little  to  the  south,  and  is  from 
1  foot  to  40  feet  in  width.  The  walls  are  hard  and  smooth.  A  depth  of  150 
feet  has  been  reached,  and  drifts  have  been  run  on  the  vein  250  feet.  There  is 
one  pay  chimney,  50  feet  long  at  the  surface,  horizontally,  and  250  at  the  deepest 
woi-kings.  A  l2-stamp  mill  was  built  in  1858,  but  is  now  so  dilapidated  that  it 
should  be  rebuilt.  The  mine  was  in  a  paying  condition,  yielding  $l'>  per  ton, 
when  the  company  purchased  the  adjacent  Good  Hope  mine  for  $39,000,  incurred 
a  debt  for  payment  with  three  per  cent,  interest,  and  undertook  to  Avork  the  latter 
mine,  moving  the  mill  to  it.  The  expenses  thus  made  overwhelmed  the  companj', 
and  mine  and  mill  were  sold  for  debt.  The  total  yield  of  the  Primrose  mine  has 
been  $226,000,  and  it  is  generally  considered  in  Sierra  county  a  valuable  mine. 

iMiNES  XEAK  THE  SiERRA  BuTTES. — Chipp's  mine,  1,100  feet  long,  near  the 
Sien-a  Buttes,  is  on  a  vein  three  feet  wide,  with  an  east  and  west  course.  It  has 
been  worked  irregularly  since  1858,  and  the  yield  has  been  irregular,  sometimes 
large  and  sometimes  small.  A  depth  of  200  feet  has  been  reached.  There  is  a 
four-stamji  mill,  which  was  built  in  1858. 

The  Bigelow  mine,  east  of  the  Sierra  Buttes  mine,  and  supposed  to  be  on  the 
same  vein,  has  a  four-stamp  mill,  which  has  been  idle  four  or  five  years. 

About  GOO  feet  east  of  the  Sierra  Buttes  lode,  and  near  the  mine  of  that  name, 
was  found  in  1865  a  pocket  of  gold  in  ochrons  clay,  with  no  vein-stone,  but  with 
well-defined  walls.  The  pocket  yielded  $13,000  gross  and  $10,000  net.  The 
yield  was  from  $300  to  $700  per  day  to  the  man  while  it  was  worked. 

Mixes  near  Alleghany  and  Minnesota. — The  Briggs  quartz  mine,  half 
a  mile  above  Minnesota,  has  a  vein  two  feet  wide,  running  east  and  w'est.  An 
eight-stamp  mill  was  built  in  1863,  and  is  now  idle.  The  best  yield  of  the  quartz 
was  $7  per  ton,  and  the  assay  value  about  $20. 

The  French  mine,  one  mile  southeast  of  jMiunesota,  has  a  vein  four  feet  wide, 
very  rich  m  spots.  A  15-stamp  mill  was  erected  in  1863,  but  is  not  running 
now. 

The  Rainbow  mine,  near  Chipp's  Flat,  was  found  in  a  gravel  tunnel  2,000  feet 
fi'om  the  mouth,  and  from  that  an  incline  was  run  down  the  vein.  The  rock  is 
rich,  but  the  shaft  incline  is  tilled  with  water,  and  there  are  many  disadvantages 
in  working  a  mine  situated  like  this  one.  An  eight-stamp  mill  was  erected  in 
1858,  and  has  stood  idle  four  or  five  years. 

The  Oak  Flat  mine,  on  Kanaka  creek,  one  mile  from  Chipp's  Flat,  has  a  vein 
four  feet  wide  running  east  and  west.  There  are  tw'o  tunnels,  each  500  feet  long, 
and  work  is  now  being  done  on  the  lower  tunnel  to  open  the  mine.  A  four-stamp 
mill  was  built  in  1862,  was  afterwards  torn  down,  and  is  now  to  be  rebuilt. 

The  Newell  quartz  mine,  on  Kanaka  creek,  one  mile  above  Chipp's  Flat,  has 
a  10-stamp  mill,  which  is  standing  idle,  waiting  for  the  oiiening  of  the  mine. 

The  American  Hill  mine,  four  miles  east  of  3Iiiinesota,  has  a  vein  five  feet 
thick  on  an  average.     A  six-stamp  mill,  built  in  1858,  paid  well  for  a  time,  but 
rwas  sold  for  debt  and  has  been  idle  for  eight  immths. 

^  The  Union  mine,  in  Wet  ravine,  one  mile  from  Alleghany,  has  a  pocket  vein 
18  inches  wklo.  It  has  yielded  $75,000,  including  $15,000  taken  out  in  a  hand 
mortar.  There  is  an  eight-stamp  mill,  which  was  built  in  1SG4  and  has  been 
idle  three  or  four  months.  The  vein  runs  east  and  west,  and  the  mine  is  troubled 
with  water. 

The  Ironside  mine,  seven  miles  east  of  Alleghany,  is  reputed  to  be  rich  with 


148  KESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

refractory  ore.  An  eight-stamp  mill,  built  in  1864,  ran  two  months  and  has 
since  been  idie. 

The  Twenty-one  mine,  on  Kanaka  creek,  one  mile  below  Alleghany,  has  pro- 
duced little.     A  four-stamp  mill  built  in  1866  is  standing  idle. 

The  Consolidated  mine,  on  Jim  Crow  canon,  east  of  Alleghany,  has  a  vein, 
but  very  little  gold.  A  16-stamp  mill,  erected  in  1863,  has  been  taken  do^\^l, 
and  is  to  be  moved  to  a  vein  above  Forest  City.  The  Consolidated  Mining  Com- 
pany of  San  Francisco  spent  S90,000  on  their  mine  and  mill. 

Mines  neak  Downieville. — The  Wheeler  mill,  near  Downieville,  is  stand- 
ing idle.     It  once  had  eight  stamps,  and  now  has  but  four. 

The  Grold  Blufl'  mine,  two  miles  above  Downie%nlle,  is  being  opened  by  a 
tunnel.     There  is  a  12-stamp  mill  standing  idle.     , 

The  Kanaka  mine,  six  miles  east  of  Downieville,  is  standing  idle,  with  a 
20-stamp  mill,  the  property  of  a  New  York  company. 


SECTIOJf    XI. 

YUBA    COUNTY. 

The  greater  part  of  Yuba  county  is  valley  land,  but  the  eastern  end  reaches 
to  a  considerable  altitude  in  the  Sien-a,  Camptonville  being  4,200  feet  above  the 
sea. 

The  county  debt  is  $200,000,  and  the  State  and  county  taxes  together  are 
$3  17. 

The  principal  mining  towns  are  Brown's  Valley,  Timbuctoo,  Smartsville, 
Sucker  Flat,  and  Camptonville. 

Campton,  Brown's,  a.\d  Haxsonville. — Camptonville  is  an  old  channel 
which  appears  north  at  Brandy  City,  in  SieiTa  county,  and  soiith  at  San  Juan, 
in  Nevada  county.  At  Campton\nlle  it  appears  near  the  top  of  a  high  ridge,  and 
is  nearly  worked  out.  There  are  three  hydraulic  companies  at  work  there,  each 
using  about  200  inches  oY  water.  The  shipment  of  gold  from  Camptonville  is 
now  about  $500,000  per  year;  seven  years  ago  it  was  $700,000. 

Brownsville,  in  the  northeastern  part  of  the  county,  had  ravine  diggings,  which 
are  nearly  exhausted.     There  are  now  numerous  orchards  in  the  neighborhood. 

Hansonville,  four  miles  south  of  Bro^aisville,  has  some  ravine  and  some  quartz 
claims.  About  $10,000  have  been  taken  out  of  quartz  pockets  in  hand  mortal's. 
Seventy-five  inches  of  water  are  used  for  in-igating  vineyards. 

Yuba  River. — The  Yuba  river,  which  was  once  lined  with  numerous  large 
mining  towns,  has  now  been  filled  to  a  depth  of  70  feet  with  gravel  from  the 
hydraulic  mines,  and  the  sites  of  all  the  river  camps  are  now  buried.  There 
were  13  bars  on  the  river  within  the  present  limits  of  the  county,  and  all  rich. 
At  Parks's  bar  in  1852,  there  were  eight  companies  at  work  in  the  river  bed,  with 
$218,000  invested  in  dams,  flumes,  pumps,  &c.,  and  with  200  hired  laborers.  The 
total  number  of  voters  was  over  400,  and  the  gold  yield  during  part  of  the  summer 
was  about  $10,000  per  day.  The  Ohio  Company  took  out  $96,000  in  the  season; 
the  Canal  Companv,  $108,000;  the  Squaw  Company,  $60,000;  the  Excelsior 
Company,  $89,000 ;'  the  Patcli  Company,  $60,000.  The  Canal  Company  in  1851 
paid  $150,000  dividends.  These  figures  are  derived  from  notes  taken  in  1852, 
by  Lyman  Ackley,  esq.,  who  was  at  that  time  State  census  agent  for  Yuba  county. 

The  SuCKEli  Flat  Chaiojel. — The  leading  mining  district  of  the  county 
is  at  Smartsville,  which  has  Timbuctoo,  a  mile  distant  on  the  west,  Sucker  Flat, 
half  a  mile  to  the  north,  and  j\Iooney  Flat,  two  miles  east.  An  old  channel  from 
600  to  1,000  feet  wide  rims  through  Timbuctoo,  Sucker  Flat,  and  Moonej  Flat, 
leaving  Sniartsville  to  the  southwest.     The  bottom  of  this  channel  has  not  been 


WEST   OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  149 

workcil  for  any  distaiico,  aiul  tlicrofore  its  course,  wlictlier  to  the  sontlicast  or  tlio 
northwest,  has  not  been  ascertained,  but  it  is  presumed  tliat  it  ran  to  tlie  north- 
west. From  Sucker  Flat  to  Timbuctoo  there  is  a  ridge  composed  entirely  of 
auriferous  o-ravel,  except  a  stratum  of  white  cement,  as  it  is  usually  called,  about 
150  feet  below  the  surface.  This  cement  is  from  15  to  30  feet  thick,  and  contains 
a  little  ijold. 

TiMiJUCTOo. — The  cLaims  at  Timbuctoo  are  the  following',  beginning  at  the 
west,  and  nmning  eastward  on  the  old  channel : 

^Ir.  WaiTcn  had  an  original  location  of  125  by  100  feet,  but  this  was  not  largo 
enough  to  justify  the  expense  of  the  preparation  necessary  for  hydraulic  washing, 
and  he  purchased  othei's  adjoining,  and  the  present  Warren  Company  own  500  feet 
square,  with  a  bed  of  gravel  130  feet  deep.  Forty  feet  at  the  surface  are  of  graved 
and  boulders,  then  comes  pipe-clay,  30"  feet  deep,  and  then  a  deep  stratum  of 
blue  cement,  which  is  richest  near  the  bed  rock.  Drainage  is  obtained  through 
an  open  cut,  which  with  the  flmnes  and  other  work  and  materials  necessary  for 
washing,  cost  $18,000.  The  supply  of  water  is  very  irregular,  but  when  it  can 
be  had,  500  inches  are  purchased  at  an  expense  of  $75  per  day.  Labor,  powder, 
and  other  expenses  amount  to  $150  per  day  more,  and  the  yield  is  $300  per  day. 
About  10  men  are  employed.  It  is  said  that  $60,000  have  been  paid  for  water 
to  wash  the  ground  of  this  company. 

The  Antone  Company  began  work  in  1853,  drifting,  and  found  very  rich 
cement,  which,  when  washed  in  a  short  sluice,  paid  them  $50  per  day  to  the 
hand,  though  much  of  the  cement  was  not  dissolved.  A  fence  was  built  to  hold 
the  tailings,  which  after  intervals  were  washed  again  and  again,  paying  almost 
as  well  as  at  first.  In  1854  they  began  to  pipe,  and  the  claim  still  yields  well. 
They  have  paid  $70,000  for  w^ater,  which  they  cannot  always  get  when  they 
would  like  to  have  it. 

The  Union  Company's  history  is  very  similar  to  that  of  the  Antone.  Their 
claim  has  been  nearly  as  rich,  and  they  have  paid  more  for  water. 

The  Michigan  Company  have  a  claim  1,000  feet  long  by  500  feet  wide,  which 
has  been  one  of  the  most  productive  in  the  vicinity,  the  total  yield  having 
been  $500,000,  of  which  $150,000  have  been  paid  for  water,  and  $50,000  as 
di\ndends.  The  ujiper  strata  have  been  nearly  all  washed  away,  and  the  com- 
pany are  now  running  a  tunnel  to  be  700  feet  long,  through  which  to  wash  the 
stratum  next  the  bed  rock. 

After  passing  several  claims,  we  come  to  the  Babb  Company,  who  have  500 
by  400  feet.  .  The  surface  of  their  claim  has  been  washed  off  to  a  depth  of  130 
feet,  j-ielding  $250,000,  of  Avhich  $95,000  went  for  water.  They  have  a  tunnel 
1,100  feet  long,  but  it  is  so  located  that  it  gives  a  bank  only  30  feet  deep  at  the 
front.  The  late  results,  however,  are  very  satisfactory.  One  clean  n\)  of  21j 
days  yielded  $7,800;  another  of  19  days  yielded  $7,000;  and  a  third  of  22  days 
gave  $12,000.  They  paid  $90  a  day  for  water,  use  GOO  inches,  and  employ 
from  8  to  12  men.  They  own  half  of  the  Michigan  tunnel,  and  the  two  com- 
l)anies  will  make  alternate  runs  through  it. 

Sucker  Flat  Claims. — The  Blue  Point  Gravel  Mining  Company  have  a  large 
claim  at  Sucker  Flat,  have  worked  it  nine  j'^ears,  and  have  piped  away  half  the 
area,  GO  feet  from  the  surface,  washing  through  an  open  cut.  They  are  running 
a  bed  rock  tunnel  to  be  2,270  feet  long  and  110  feet  deep.  This  enterprise  was 
commenced  in  November,  1866,  and  will  be  finished  in  two  years,  at  cost  of 
$100,000.  The  depth  of  the  gravel  has  not  l)een  ascertained  jjrecisely,  so  it  is 
uncertain  whether  the  tunnel  will  drain  the  claim  to  the  bed  rock. 

The  Union  Company  have  a  large  claim,  have  washed  off  one-fourth  of  it  lo 
depth  of  60  feet  in  one  part  and  120  feet  in  another.  They  are  not  piping  n(nv, 
and  intend  to  tail  into  the  Blue  Point  tunnel  when  it  is  linished. 

The  Blue  Cement  Company'-  have  a  claim  500  feet  long,  by  240  feet  wide,  on 
which  they  began  to  pipe  this  year,  with  20  men  and  500  inches  of  water.    Their 


150  T?,ESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

present  T)anlv  is  33  feet  deep.  They  are  now  cutting  a  tunnel  30  feet  deeper,  and 
thev  expect  i.^  tail  into  the  Blue  Point  tunnel  when  it  is  completed. 

The  NcvaJ.x  Reservoir  Ditch  Company  own  about  100  acres,  supposed  to  be  all 
liydranlic  ground,  on  the  Blue  Lead,  near  Sucker  Flat  and  Mooney  Flat,  enough 
to  last  50  3^oars. 

The  O'Brien  claim  is  1,100  feet  long  on  the  ridge,  and  includes  30  acres.  Tlie 
present  workings  are  140  feet  deep  to  the  white  cement,  and  the  gravel  is  washed 
in  a  sluice  3,000  feet  long.  The  quantity  of  water  used  is  600  inches  j  the  yield 
from  $150  to  $250  per  day,  and  the  net  profit  $15,000  per  year.  A  tunnel 
r210  feet  below  the  present  sluice,  to  be  800  feet  long,  and  to  cost  $50,000,  has 
l)een  cut  260  feet,  and  will  be  finished  in  two  years.  This  tunnel  will  be  deep 
enough  to  drain  the  bed  rock  for  some  distance  each  way. 

McAllis  and  Gordon  have  700  feet  of  the  ridge,  and  have  lately  completed  a 
tunnel  1,500  feet  long,  at  a  cost  of  $40,000  to  work  the  upper  lead  or  the  gravel 
above  the  white  cement,  and  within  175  feet  of  the  surface.  Five  years  will  be 
required  to  work  off  this  upper  lead.  The  distance  from  lim  rock  to  rim  rock 
across  the  channel  in  this  claim  is  1,000  feet.  Seven  men  are  employed,  and 
500  inches  of  water  consumed.  A  tmmel  to  work  the  lower  lead  nnder  the  white 
cement  will  require  three  years'  work.  « 

The  Taylor  chaim,  300  by  600  feet,  is  half  worked  out,  and  has  paid  very  well, 
yielding  Avith  600  inches  of  water  from  $300  to  $400  per  day,  lately  the  latter 
sum.     Six  men  are  employed. 

The  Excelsior  Water  Company  have  a  claim  600  by  1,000  freet,  from  which 
they  have  obtained  $300  or  $400,  and  sometimes  $500  per  day. 

The  Pittsburg  claim  is  2,000  feet  long  on  the  old  channel,  and  is  owned  by 
an  eastern  company,  which  paid  $300,000  in  currency  for  it.  They  are  now  wash- 
ing through  a  tunnel  that  cost  $80,000,  and  the  daily  yield  is  reported  to  be  $660, 
with  600  inches  and  12  men.  The  present  bank  is  only  30  feet  deep,  and  a  new 
tunnel,  to  be  76  feet  lower,  and  1,600  feet  has  been  cut  400  feet,  and  two  shafts 
licve  been  commenced  on  the  line,  so  as  to  have  four  additional  working  faces. 

Smaetsville  Blue  Gravel. — The  Smartsville  Blue  Gravel  Company  have 
a  claim  of  about  150  acres  at  Sucker  Flat.  The  channel  is  at  least  200  yards 
wide,  and  its  depth  has  never  been  ascertained  precisely.  On  the  bed  rock  lies 
a  stratum  of  baiTen  blue  cement,  5  or  10  feet  thick,  containing  large  boulders 
of  granite  and  slate.  Next  comes  a  stratum  of  hard  blue  pay  cement,  containing 
large  boulders  of  slate  trap  and  granite,  a  few  pebbles,  including  some  of  quartz, 
and  nuK'h  quartz  sand.  It  requires  an  experienced  eye  to  distinguish  this  from 
the  lower  layer,  but  it  is  important  to  know  their  precise  limits,  for  all  of  the  pay 
cement  is  to  be  washed  away,  and  all  of  the  barren  left  in  its  place.  Then  comes 
a  stratum  of  soi't  blue  cement,  55  feet  deep,  softer  on  the  northern  side  of  the 
channel,  and  in  ])laces  where  the  bed  rock  is  lower  than  elsewhere.  There  are 
very  few  boulders  in  this  stratum,  and  the  pebbles  are  mostly  of  slate,  and  less 
than  two  inches  in  diameter.  The  largest  gravel  and  the  richest  pay  in  this 
layer  an;  found  near  the  top.  There  are  great  variations  in  the  hardness,  but 
none  is  soft  enough  to  pipe  down. 

The  top  stratum  is  line  red  gravel,  from  25  to  75  feet  deep,  softer  than  the 
blue,  but  still  not  soft  enough  to  pipe.  The  pebbles  are  mostly  of  slate,  green- 
stone, and  quartz,  the  last  very  fine. 

Many  trees  are  found  in  the  claim,  some  carbonized,  others  partly  rotten,  and 
partly  replaced  by  sulphurets  of  iron.  There  are  no  petrifactions  and  no  human 
bones  or  articles  showing  human  workmanship. 

Powder  is  used  more  extensivel}'  here  than  in  any  other  hydraulic  claim,  prob- 
ably more  than  in  any  other  mine  in  CaliFt)rnia.  All  the  strata  arc  too  hard  to  1)0 
piped  down  with  economy,  and  some  of  them  are  so  hard  in  places  that  the  pipe 
would  scarcely  afl'ect  them.  So  much  powder  has  been  used  here  that  its  employ- 
ment is  reduced  to  a  system.     The  quantity  of  powder  for  the  blast  depends 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  151 

upon  tlio  iloptli  of  tlie  bank  and  the  surface  area  to  be  loosened.  If  tlie  bank 
is  50  feet  deep  a  tunnel  four  and  a  half  feet  high  and  two  and  a  half  wide  may 
be  run  in  7;')  feet ;  a  cross-drift  GO  feet  long  is  cut  across  the  end  at  right  angles, 
and  another  similar  cross-drift  of  etjual  length  55  feet  from  the  mouth  of  the 
tunnel.  .100  kegs  may  be  used  in  such  a  l)last,  all  distributed  along  in  the  cross- 
drifts  and  in  the  tunnel  beyond  the  first  cross-drift.  20  kegs  near  the  intersec- 
tion are  opened  by  taking  out  the  heads;  the  others  are  left  closed,  with  the  cer- 
tainty that  they  will  all  l)e  opened  by  the  explosion  of  the  20.  From  the  inter- 
sectidii  to  witliin  10  feet  of  the  mouth  wooden  troughs  two  inches  wide  and  deep 
inside  are  laid,  and  a  liberal  su})ply  of  })owder  is  poured  in,  leading  to  an  open 
keg.  The  10  feet  next  the  mouth  are  laid  carefully  with  a  fuse,  and  ibr  that 
distance  the  tunnel  is  filled  in  with  dirt.  When  the  blast  is  fired  a  dull,  heavy 
sound  is  heard,  the  earth  rises  slowly  about  10  feet;  it  then  settles  down,  leaving 
a  dust  behind  it,  and  ou  examination  an  area  about  120  feet  square  will  be  found 
all  shattered. 

By  blasting,  the  water  is  cnal)led  to  carry  off  twice  as  muck  dirt  as  it  would 
otherwise ;  and  as  500  inches  of  water  are  used  at  an  expense  of  $75  per  day, 
there  is  a  vast  saving.  The  cost  of  powder  is  large,  as  about  10,000  pounds  are 
consumed  monthly  on  an  average  in  this  one  claim.  After  the  ground  has  been 
blown  the  pipes  can  bring  down  more  than  they  can  carry  away,  so  about  one- 
third  of  the  water  is  allowed  to  run  down  over  the  bank,  while  the  remainder  is 
thro\\n  through  the  pipes. 

The  j)ortion  of  the  claim  worked  is  a  hole  200  yards  wide,  600  long,  and  100 
feet  deep  in  the  hill  or  ridge.  The  dirt  from  this  hole  has  been  carried  oif  through, 
a  tunnel  1,700  feet  long,  and  without  a  tunnel  it  would  have  been  impossible  to 
wash  away  the  immense  mass  of  gravel.  At  first  a  hole  was  washed  75  feet  deep, 
and  then  another  75  feet  deeper,  and  thus  there  is  a  bench  in  the  claim. 

For  the  sake  of  economy  in  washing  it  is  customar}-  to  have  three  places  to 
work  upon  at  a  time,  so  that  after  the  pipes  have  been  playing  for  two  hours  at 
one  ])lacc  the}'  may  be  turned  upon  another,  and  the  miners  can  then  go  and 
break  up  with  theu-  picks  the  large  hard  lumps  which  the  water  can  neither  break 
up  nor  carry  off. 

The  sluices  have  a  grade  of  7  inches  to  12  feet,  and  are  paved  Avith  wooden 
blocks  and  boulders  of  basalt.  The  entire  sluice  is  cleaned  up  once  in  four 
months,  and  half  of  it  at  intervals  of  two  months.  At  the  cleaning  up  clean 
water  is  run  through  so  as  to  carry  off  the  surplus  dirt  and  gravel,  and  the  w^ater 
is  nearly  shut  off.  The  fiilse  sides  are  taken  off  and  Avashed  with  a  little  water. 
The  wooden  blocks  in  the  bottom  are  set  up  edgewise,  washed  of!',  and  taken 
out ;  200  inches  of  water  are  turned  on,  and  this  cleans  the  dirt  from  the  rock 
paving,  whicli  is  taken  out  and  put  to  one  side.  The  sides  of  the  fiume  are 
scraped  and  swept.  Boards  10  inches  high  are  fitted  tightly  across  the  sluice  at 
intervals,  and  tough  clay  is  put  at  the  sides  and  bottom,  so  that  no  (piicksilver, 
gold,  or  water  can  })ass  except  over  the  top  of  the  board.  This  is  done  before 
the  rock  paving  is  moved.  Two  hunthed  inches  of  water  are  now  turned  on, 
and  all  the  gold,  amalgam,  quicksilver,  black  sand,  and  heavy  gravel  are  col- 
lected above  the  boards.  As  they  have  three  ions  of  quicksilver  in  the  sluice 
at  a  time,  and  expect  to  find  at  least  $40,000  of  gold  at  a  large  clean-up,  the 
operation  recpiires  some  work.  The  usual  time  consmned  in  the  cleaning  up  is 
48  hours,  and  three  days  more  elapse  before  the  sluices  are  again  in  running 
order.  There  are  three*  large  clean-ups  of  about  840,000  each,  and  thiee  small 
ones  each  of  about  $25,000,  in  a  year.     Thirty  men  are  employed. 

The  total  yield  since  March,  iSG4,  when  the  claim  became  ])roductive,  has 
been  about  81,000,000. 

The  report  of  ISGG  gave  a  brief  history  of  the  claim  and  some  details,  which 
it  is  not  necessary  to  rej)eat  now. 

SiCAKD  Flat. — Sicard  Flat,  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Yuba  river,  two  miles 


152 


EESOUECES    OF   STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 


from  Timltuctoo,  lias  liydraulic  diggings  in  a  bed  of  gravel  90  feet  deep.  The 
best  pay  is  in  a  l>ed  of  gray  gravel  from  4  to  10  feet  deep  on  the  bed  rock,  but 
none  of  it  is  rich  enough  to  pay  for  drifting.  The  boulders  are  of  trap,  and 
seldom  weigh  more  than  100  pounds.  The  widest  part  of  the  channel  is  400 
yards  wi.de  on  the  surface,  but  the  bottom  has  not  been  reached  on  the  north- 
eastern side.  There  is  not  enough  pressure  to  pipe  well,  and  the  dirt  is  not  soft 
enough  to  dissolve  entirely  at  the  fii'st  washing ;  though  in  most  claims  it  gets 
only  one.  In  many  claims  tunnels  and  cross-drifts  six  feet  high  are  cut  at  inter- 
vals of  8  or  12  feet  each  way,  and  in  three  or  four  days  the  pillars  give  way  and 
the  gravel  above  is  well  broken  up  by  the  fall.  General  rumor  says  that  Sicard 
Flat  has  never  paid. 

The  Lower  Diggings  claim,  on  the  southwest  end  of  the  Flat,  is  400  feet  square, 
uses  600  inches  of  water  in  the  spring,  and  employs  nine  men.  The  Avater  is 
supplied  by  a  ditch  belonging  to  the  claim.  The  yield  for  the  season  of  1866-7 
was  $13,000,  and  the  expenses  for  the  season  were  about  $1,000  per  month. 

The  Gates  claim,  360  by  400  feet,  and  the  Black  claim,  200  by  400  feet, 
have  not  been  worked  for  three  years. 

On  the  side  of  the  ridge  facing  Parks's  Bar  is  the  McQueen  claim,  800  by  400 
feet,  with  a  ditch  carr3nng  600  inches  of  water  belonging  to  it.  This  claim, 
when  last  worked,  yielded  no  profit. 

The  Union  claim  has  not  been  worked  for  six  or  seven  years. 

Beown's  Valley. — Brown's  Valley,  11  miles  northeastward  from  Mary sville, 
and  about  500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  is  a  rich  quartz  district. 

The  Daniel  Webster  Company  have  3,600  feet  on  the  Jefferson  lode,  have 
gone  down  90  feet,  and  there  stopped  work  three  years  ago.  They  are  now 
reorganizing  and  preparing  to  start  again. 

Tlie  Pacific  has  600  feet,  went  down  60  feet,  and  is  doing  nothing.  The  claim 
has  been  in  litigation  for  five  years. 

jErrERSON". — The  Jefferson  mine  is  780  feet  long  on  the  Pennsylvania  lode, 
which  has  yielded  most  of  the  gold  obtained  in  Brown's  valley.  The  vein  runs 
north  and  south,  dips  45°  to  the  east  with  the  coiu-se  and  cleavage  of  the  slates, 
and  has  two  main  branches  which  unite  at  a  depth  of  360  feet  in  the  Pennsyl- 
vania-, and  on  the  surface  at  the  north  end  of  that  mine  and  at  the  south  end  of 
the  Jefferson.  The  eastern  branch  has  mostly  bluish  quartz,  and  is  not  dis- 
tinctly traceable  within  90  feet  of  the  surface  at  the  shafts  of  the  Jefferson  and 
Pennsylvania  mines.  The  western  branch  has  mostly  yellowish  quartz.  Each 
branch  in  places  is  10  feet  wide  or  more. 

The  width  in  the  Jefferson  mine  varies  from  1^  to  14  feet,  with  an  average  of 
six  or  seven  feet.  The  main  incline  is  down  612  feet,  and  drifts  have  been  run 
400  feet  on  the  vein.  A  fine  pay  chimney  found  near  the  northern  line  was  ]  00 
feet  long  at  the  surface,  and  160  feet  down,  enlarged  so  as  to  be  nearly  300  feet 
long  horizontally,  and  maintained  the  same  width  to  the  300-foot  level,  where  it 
seemed  to  split. 

The  yield  at  the  surface  was  sometimes  as  high  as  $40  per  ton,  and  for  small 
bodies  of  ore  even  rose  to  $200,  but  during  the  last  four  years  has  at  no  time 
exceeded  $15.  The  following  table  shows  the  yield  of  the  mine  since  it  has 
been  in  the  hands  of  the  present  company,  for  the  several  mine  years  ending 
December  1st : 


Receipts. 

Labor. 

Other  expenses. 

Dividends. 

1863 

$19,551  90 
121,  380  05 

8y,  197  60 
124,  208  82 

56,275  67 

$8.  026  75 
54,  704  56 
28,  063  73 
52,951  02 
46,419  51 

$12,602  88 

28,  .596  17 

12,  406  69 

30,  888  03 

6,654  47 

1864 

$42,  9C0 
4''  9i'0 

:g65 

:8fi6          

45,  800 

1867 

Total 1 

409,617  04 

191, 155  57 

91,169  14 

131  600 

WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  153 

The  year  1S63,  in  the  above  table,  began  on  tlie  13tli  September,  wlien  the 
coin]iany  took  possession ;  and  the  year  18G7  conies  down  only  to  the  Hrst  of 
October.  Before  September  13,  18G3,  the  yield  had  been  about  $130,000,  mak- 
ing  the  total  production  of  the  mine  $539,000. 

In  l,;>00  tons  of  on;  there  is  one  ton  of  sulphurets,  which  j-ield  8220  of  gold 
per  ton. 

The  iineness  of  the  gold  at  the  surface  was  840,  and  at  GOO  feet  below  it  is 
8G3  ti)  80;"). 

The  mill  has  12  stamps  and  three  Harney  pans.  About  four  and  a  half  per 
cent,  of  the  total  yield  is  obtained  from  the  pans.  There  are  two  engines,  one  of 
GO  and  the  other  of  30-horse  power.  In  this  mill  the  scraps  of  iron  found  in  the 
mortar,  consisting  of  fragments  from  the'  shoes,  dies,  shovels,  picks,  hammers, 
and  drills,  are  carefully  saved,  on  account  of  the  particles  of  gold  driven  into 
their  interstices  while  they  are  battered  about  in  the  ore.  From  20  to  50  pounds 
are  collected  in  a  month,  and  after  being  digested  in  warm  sulphmic  acid  until 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  is  eaten  off  the  surface,  they  yield  about  $3  of  gold  for 
every  pound  of  iron.  The  larger  scraps,  before  going  into  the  acid,  were  broken 
u})  with  a  sledge  hammer.  The  shoes  and  dies  contained  the  gold  chiefly  on  the 
face,  and  these,  instead  of  being  broken  up  and  put  into  acid,  were  boiled  half 
an  hour  in  water,  and  then  they  were  hammered  and  the  particles  of  gold  fell 
out  of  the  interstices. 

In  a  diagram  the  Pennsylvania  shaft  is  shown  running  down  into  the  ground 
claimed  by  the  Jefferson.  The  two  companies  agree  about  their  boundary  line 
at  the  surface,  but  they  have  a  dispute  as  to  the  direction  of  the  line  below  the 
surface  ;  and  the  Pennsylvania  Company  having  taken  some  valuable  <piartz  from 
the  disputed  ground,  the  Jefferson  Company  have  sued  them  for  $100,000,  its 
alleged  value.  The  main  question  in  the  suit  relates  to  the  direction  of  the  vein. 
If  the  plane  of  the  lode  were  vertical — that  is,  if  the  lode  had  no  dip — there 
would  be  no  dispute  about  the  boundary  line  after  the  point  of  junction  at  the 
surface  had  been  agreed  upon,  but  this  vein  dips  at  an  angle  of  45°,  and  the 
direction  of  the  boundarj'^  depends  on  the  direction  of  the  vein.  If  the  vein  runs 
with  the  meridian  the  boimdary  plane  would  be  parallel  with  the  e(piator.  We 
have  no  express  provision  in  our  statutes  relative  to  the  legal  point,  but  the  coui-ts 
will  no  doubt  decide,  when  the  question  is  raised,  that  the  limit  of  a  lode  mine  is 
a  line  made  by  a  veitical  plane  passing  through  the  vein  at  right  angles  to  its 
horizontal  direction.  If  a  book  is  set  up  vertically  on  a  table  and  another  dip- 
ping at  an  angle  of  45°  is  pushed  against  its  side,  the  end  of  the  sloping  book 
will  not  fit  against  the  other  unless  the  two  books  meet  at  right  angles.  Put  up 
two  books  sloping  at  45°  so  as  to  touch  at  the  upper  corners,  with  a  difference  of 
10°  or  15°  in  their  d'rection,  and  their  ends  will  show  how  the  boundary  lines 
of  mines  run  in  different  directions  according  to  the  course  of  the  lode.  The 
Jefferson  and  Pennsylvania  agree  at  the  surface,  but  500  feet  down  there  are 
50  feet  of  vein  in  dispute  between  them. 

Pexnsylvan-ia. — The  Pennsylvania  Company,  incorporated  at  IMarysville, 
has  1,300  feet  on  the  Pennsylvania  lode  and  its  branches,  adjoining  the  Jefftn-- 
sou  on  the  north ;  and  it  is  sujjposed  that  several  pay  chimneys  found  on  the 
latter  mine  dip  into  the  Pennsylvania. 

A  depth  of  GOO  feet  has  been  reached  on  an  incline,  and  drifts  have  been  run  200 
feet  on  the  vein.    Two  pay  chimneys  are  worked,  and  two  others  have  been  foiuid. 

The  company  commenced  work  in  18G3,  ran  down  110  feet  on  the  l*ennsyl- 
vania  lode,  then  struck  across  into  the  Jefferson,  spent  $75,000  before  getting 
any  return,  and  then  spent  $75,000  of  the  net  receipts  in  opening  the  mine  and 
building  the  mill.  No  dividend  has  been  paid  yet,  and  tin?  $75,000  ex])ended 
on  the  mine  and  mill  have  not  been  reimbursed.  During  the  last  ten  months, 
according  to  the  statements  of  the  president  of  the  compan}',  the  m^t  yield  above 
ordinary  expenses  has  been  $7,500  per  month.     The  average  yield  at  present  is 


154  HESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

$15  per  ton  ;  the  amount  crnslied  per  montli  from  900  to  1,000  tons  ;  tlie  ordinary 
expenses  $4,500,  leaving  $10,000  net  per  montli. 

There  is  one  ton  of  siilphnrets,  containing'  $1,000,  in  1,000  tons  of  quariz. 

The  mill  has  16  stamps,  is  situated  on  the  south  end  of  the  claim,  and  is  driven 
Iw  a  steam  engine  of  100  horse-power.  The  quartz  is  hoisted  by  steam.  Amal- 
gamation is  effected  in  the  mortar  and  on  a  copper  apron,  below  which  are  blankets, 
and  the  tailings  from  these  are  ground  in  four  Chile  mills.  Wheeler  and  Ran- 
dall pans  are  now  being  set  up  as  preferable  to  Chile  mills. 

An  experiment  was  made  by  grinding  all  the  blanket  washings  from  the  16 
stamps,  two  hours  for  each  charge,  in  the  Chile  mills,  and  the  yield  was  eight 
ounces  of  gold  in  a  month.  Then  half  the  tailings  were  ground,  four  hoxus  to 
a  charge,  and  the  yield  was  200  oimces  in  a  month.  Again,  all  the  pulp  from  a 
four-stamp  battery  was  allowed  to  run  with  a  continuous  charge  and  discharge 
through  a  Chile  mill,  and  not  one  ounce  was  caught  in  two  weeks.  The  ore  was 
the  same  in  quality  and  quantity,  and  the  amount  caught  in  the  mortar  during 
these  experiments  was  the  same  per  week. 

In  the  middle  of  the  Pennsylvania  claim  is  an  incline  180  feet  deep,  with 
pumping  and  hoisting  works  and  a  15  horse-power  engine.  A  railroad  canies 
the  ore  from  this  incline  to  the  mill. 

In  the  Pennsylvania  mill  the  Von  Muller  amalgamator,  invented  by  the  presi- 
dent (>f  the  company,  is  used.  It  is  a  box  three  feet  long,  a  foot  wide,  and  a 
foot  deep,  with  a  board  set  into  the  ends  and  goijig  to  within  an  inch  of  the  bot- 
tom. Quicksilver,  half  an  inch  deep — about  SO  pounds — is  put  into  the  box, 
"which  is  then  set  under  the  sluice,  below  the  amalgamating  apparatus  and  the 
blankets.  The  pulp  pours  into  the  l)ox  above  the  board,  has  to  pass  under  the 
board  and  then  up,  escaping  over  the  lower  side,  which  is  not  quite  so  high  as 
the  ends  or  upper  side.  This  amalgamator  requires  little  attention,  and  always 
catches  enough  gold  to  pay. 

The  Chile  mills  have  cast-iron  basins,  cost  $400  each,  work  a  charge  of  100 
pounds  in  four  hours,  and  make  10  revolutions  per  minute. 

The  Wheeler  and  Randall  pans  grind  a  charge  of  1,200  pounds  in  four  hoiu's, 
and  cost  $500.  Long  grinding  is  very  important  for  those  ores  in  which  the 
quartz  is  very  fine. 

Other  Quartz  Mines  oe  Yuba. — The  Bm-nside  Company  have  SOO  feet, 
went  down  40  feet,  but  suspended  work  when  the  panic  of  1864  came,  and  are 
preparing  to  start  again. 

The  Paragon  Company  have  1,800  feet,  did  some  work  previous  to  the  panic, 
and  have  done  nothing  since. 

The  Ophir  Company  have  1,200  feet,  and  have  had  the  same  history  as  the 
Paragon. 

The  Rattlesnake,  formerlj^  the  Yuba  mine,  is  1,600  feet  long.  The  vein  is 
two  and  a  half  feet  wide,  and  a  depth  of  140  feet  has  been  reached.  There  is 
a  30  horse-power  engine  for  hoisting.  A  yield  of  $18  \wr  ton  wasj  obtained  from 
1,500  tons.     The  company  are  preparing  to  build  a  mill. 

The  Dannebroge  mine,  2,400  feet  long,  is  on  a  lode  which  runs  northeast  and 
southw(!St,  and  intersects  the  Pennsylvania  lode  at  tlie  north  end  of  the  Penn- 
sylvania mine.  The  vein  is  three  feet  wide,  and  it  dips  to  the  northwest  at  an 
angle  of  40°.  Only  one  paj^  chimney  has  been  discovered,  and  that  is  150  feet 
long,  horizontally,  with  hard  white  flinty,  quartz,  containing  many  fine  s]>ecimens, 
and  averaging  $15  or  $20  per  ton — the  richest  in  Brown's  valley.  The  total 
yield  was  $250,000,  according  to  report,  but  the  company  has  had  much  litiga- 
tion and  has  kept  its  affairs  as  secret  as  possible.  Rumor  says  the  superintendent 
had  instructions  to  keep  no  books.  Work  was  stopped  in  1865,  and  was  resinned 
in  July  of  this  year.  A  depth  of  500  feet  has  been  reached,  and  drifts  have 
been  nm  200  feet  on  the  vein.  There  is  an  eight-stamp  mill,  with  two  Chile 
mills  and  an  engine  of  20  horse-power. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS  155 

TInlf  ;i  mile  west  of  tlio  Poniisylvania  niino  is  tlio  Swoct  Vcngcanco,  8,400 
foet  loiiin-,  on  a  lodo  which  runs  northwest  and  sonth(>ast,  and  dips  40°  to  the 
nortlicast.  They  commenced  work  in  1863,  spent  SSO,000,  extracted  $25,000 
from  tlie  mine,  and  stopped  work  two  years  ago.  IMany  rich  specimens  have 
bt'cn  obtained  from  the  mine,  and  for  six  mouths  it  paid  expenses.  A  depth  of 
200  feet  has  been  reached ;  drifts  have  been  run  250  feet  on  the  vein ;  and  there 
is  a  20-stamp  mill. 

The  I'ayenpie  claim,  one  mile  east  of  Brown's  valley,  lias  reached  a  depth  of 
100  feel,  and  has  quartz  that  yields  $18  per  ton.  Some  of  the  rock  has  been 
crushed  at  the  Dannebroiiv  mill. 

On  the  same  lode  is  the  Andei'son  mine,  which  is  being  opened.  The  quarts 
is  rich  in  sulphurets. 

"West  of  Brown's  valley,  at  Prairie  diggings,  are  hundreds  of  quartz  claims, 
which  were  prospected  a  little  in  1863  and  abandoned  in  1864. 

At  I)ol)bin's  ranch  is  the  Bateman  mine,  which  has  a  vein  18  inches  wide,  and 
yields  S30  per  ton.  There  is  a  five-stamp  mill,  which  began  work  in  July  of 
this  year. 

At  Frenchto'UTi,  in  a  ravine  between  two  steep  mountains,  there  are  many 
quartz  veins,  but  no  mill. 

The  Brown's  Valley  Tunnel  Company  undertook  to  run  a  long  tunnel  into 
the  hill  back  of  Brown's  valley  for  the  purpose  of  prospecting  19  quartz  veins 
which  crop  out  on  the  hill,  but  they  were  stopped  by  the  panic  of  1864,  after 
going  200  feet. 

The  ^larc  Antony  claim,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  west  of  Timbuctoo,  had  a  pocket 
that  paid  85,000  to  a  hand  mortar,  and  nothing  has  been  obtained  since. 

The  Andrew  Jackson  quartz  mine,  near  Smai-tsville,  has  a  10-stamp  mill, 
which  is  not  running.     The  vein  is  now  being  opened. 

The  Deadwood  lode,  one  mile  from  Forbestown,  and  very  near  the  Butte 
county  line,  is  four  feet  wide,  and  has  jaelded  $5,000  in  hand  mortars.  Three 
tons  taken  out  near  a  pocket,  and  worked  in  a  mill,  yielded  $30  per  ton.  It  is 
supposed  that  there  is  little  l)eyond  the  pockets  in  the  lode. 

Bnowx's  Valley  Quartz  Regulations. — The  records  of  Brown's  Valley 
district  have  not  been  kept  carefully,  many  alterations  have  been  made  in  the 
regulations,  and  there  is  much  doubt  as  to  what  regulations  are  in  force.  The 
requu'ement  of  representation  at  annual  meetings  is  peculiar. 

On  the  14th  of  February,  1853,  a  meeting  was  held  "to  make  new  laws  to 
govern  the  mines  in  said  valley  in  regard  to  working  and  holding  claims."  The 
following  resolution  was  passed  at  that  meeting : 

Resolved,  That  the  law  passed  February  14,  1852,  and  all  laws  previous  to  that  date  Tep;u- 
lating  the  working  of  quartz  claims  in  the  above  valley  and  vicinity,  is  an  arbitrary  and 
despotic  set  of  laws,  and  are  this  day  revoked  by  common  consent. 

Nothing  was  done  at  that  meeting  to  fix  the  size  of  claims,  or  the  conditions 
under  which  they  could  be  held.  A  clause  adopted  at  this  meeting  requiring  the 
posting  of  a  notice  on  the  claim  of  any  company  or  individual  at  the  time  of  loca- 
tion was  repealed  on  the  31st  of  July,  1853.  On  the  Sth  of  August,  1853,  the 
following  resolutions  were  adopted : 

Resolved,  That  each  claim  shall  be  entitled  to  a  vote  in  the  miner's  meetings  in  this  district, 
by  the  proper  owner,  or  represented  by  power  of  attorney  from  the  proper  owner,  specifying 
the  object  of  that  power  and  its  limitation. 

Resolved,  That  each  claim,  in  the  future  semi-annual  meetings  of  this  district  shall  bo  rcpro- 
Bented  in  person  or  by  a  written  power  of  attorney,  otherwise  it  shall  be  forfeited. 

At  a,  meeting  held  on  the  14th  of  August,  1854,  W.  Kinsella  moved  that  all 
claims  that  had  been  worked  since  the  last  meeting  should  be  exempt  from  tho 
necessity  of  being  represented.     The  motion  was  lost. 


15(i  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

At  a  meeting  held  on  the  4th  of  January,  18G4,  the  followinsf  resolutions  were 
adopted  : 

■   Re.solred,  Tlmt  the  law  reqniiinor  each  sharehoklcr  or  claimant  in  a  company  to  represent 
his  irdividiial  interest  be,  and  is  hereby,  expunged  from  the  record. 

licsotmd.  That  any  known  member  of  a  company  shall  have  full  power  to  represent  and 
cast  a  vote  of  said  company  to  the  number  of  feet  therein  contained,  on  all  questions  pertain- 
ing to  the  mining  laws  of  Brown's  Valley  district. 

On  the  2d  of  January,  18G5,  the  following  resolution  was  passed  : 

Residced,  That  for  the  better  regulation  of  working  claims,  from  and  after  this  date  it  will 
cnl^-  be  necessary  to  perform  or  make  improvements  on  anj'  quartz  claim  during  the  year  to 
the  amount  of  SlOO,  in  order  to  hold  the  same,  and  after  such  work  has  been  done,  the  repre- 
sentation of  claims  annually  will  be  sufficient  to  hold  the  same,  and  all  parties  after  having 
performed  such  labor  or  improvements  shall  leave  a  written  notice  to  that  effect  with  the 
recorder  of  the  district,  the  same  to  be  placed  on  record.  Any  claim  that  shall  have  performed 
such  amount  of  work  shall  be  considered  exempt,  providing  said  work  was  done  within  the 
past  year. 

On  the  8th  of  January,  1866,  the  following  resolution  was  offered  by  Charles 
Bandum : 

Resolved,  That  for  the  better  regulation  of  claims,  hereafter  any  and  all  claims  shall  have 
at  least  $7)  worth  of  work  or  improvements  performed  on  each  and  every  claim  of  150  feet 
every  year,  in  order  to  hold  the  same. 

H.  Videau  moved  to  amend  by  saying  $20  instead  of  $5.  The  amendment 
and  resolution  being  put  to  vote  were  both  lost. 

Mr.  Bandum  moved  to  reconsider,  and  the  motion  was  canied. 

It  was  then  moved  by  H.  Leland  to  amend  PI.  Videaxi's  amendment  by  having  $10  worth 
of  work  or  improvement  performed  on  each  and  every  claim  of  150  feet  annually  in  order  to 
bold  the  same,  in  addition  to  the  annual  representation,  and  that  a  sworn  certificate  of  such 
work  or  improvement  must  be  recorded  with  the  mining  recorder  of  this  district,  and  that 
unless  such  certificate  be  recorded  that  such  work  has  been  done,  then  such  claim  or  claims 
shall  be  forfeited.     The  amendment  was  then  put  and  carried. 

Thei'e  is  no  record  that  Videau's  amendment,  or  Mr.  Bandum's  resolution,  was 
put  to  a  vote. 

V)y  a  resolution  adopted  January  3,  1859,  it  was  declared  that  quartz  clauns 
should  be  150  feet  on  the  vein,  with  all  the  clips,  angles,  and  spm's. 

On  the  7th  of  January,  1867,  the  following  resolution  was  adopted  : 

Resolved,  That  the  law  requiring  work,  improvement,  or  labor  to  be  performed  on  claims, 
be  dispensed  with,  and  that  representation  be  sufficient  to  hold  the  same,  running  until  the 
first  Monday  of  May,  1868. 

The  following  is  a  copy  of  a  certificate  of  representation,  on  record  : 

I  do  hereby  certify  that  I  am  the  agent  and  part  owner  of  the  Brown's  Valley  Gold  and 
Silver  Mining  Company,  situated  in  the  Brown's  Valley  mining  district,  Yuba  county,  Cali- 
fornia, and  tliat  the  representation,  &c.,  of  the  same  has  been  duly  performed  according  to 
the  district  laws  for  the  years  1864  and  1865. 

G.  H.  LELAXD,  Agciit. 

January  29,  1866. 

Empike  Quartz  Regulations. — The  Empire  district,  near  Smartsville,  has 
the  following  regulations  : 

Notice  of  a  claim  or  location  of  mining  ground  by  individual  or  by  a  company,  on  file  in 
the  recorder's  office,  shall  be  deemed  equivalent  to  a  record  of  the  same. 

Each  claimant  shall  be  entitled  to  hold  by  location  200  feet  on  any  lode  in  the  district, 
with  all  its  dips,  angles,  spurs,  offshoots,  outcrops,  depths,  widths,  vaiiations,  and  all  uiin- 
erals  and  other  valuables  contained  therein — the  discoverer  of  any,  or  1  jcater  on  a  new  lode, 
being  entitled  to  one  claim  extra  for  discovery. 

The  locater  of  any  lode  or  ledge  in  this  district  shall  be  entitled  to  hold  on  each  side  of  the 
ledge,  lode,  or  lead,  located  by  him  or  them,  250  feet,  including  any  lateral  veins,  lodes,  or 
ledges,  bearing  minerals  therein.  The  space  of  said  250  feet  on  each  side  of  the  main  lead 
shall  be  considered  as  claimed  by,  and  entirely  belonging  to,  the  locater  or  locators  of  a  ledge, 
and  his  or  their  assignee,  and  parcel  of  the  same  mine. 


i 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  157 

It  shall  be  the  privilepre  of  nny  person  or  persons  or  coniimny,  when  tlic  vein  leilge  or  lodo 
of  niineral  is  not  distinctly  Irui'csihlo  on  tlu'  siutacc,  to  tiiKc  up  tlic  {ground  they  desire  to 
prospect,  stating^  in  tlieir  iioliee  tiie  nuumer  tliey  intend  to  prospect  tlio  same. 

Every  cliiirn,  whether  by  individual  or  company,  shall  be  recorded  within  10  days  after 
the  dale  of  hication. 

It  shall  be  required  of  each  company  holding  ground  in  this  district  to  put  $50  worth  of 
worl;  on  said  ground  in  three  months  from  the  datt;  of  recording". 

When  any  conipanj'  shall  have  done  lioncst  work  to  the  amount  of  $100  upon  their  claims, 
and  shall  cause  an  entry  ti>  be  made  on  the  records  of  this  district,  said  company  shall  be  con- 
sidered as  havinpr  acquired  a  vested  rip^ht  in  said  ledge,  which  shall  have  all  the  force  an(' 
etTect  in  law  and  equity  as  other  real  estate  and  property. 

When  any  company  has  put  work  to  the  amount  of  $50,  said  work  shall  hold  said  claim 
for  one  year. 

These  regulations  were  adopted  Janitavy  26,  1863.  No  quartz  mines  arc  no^v 
worked  in  the  district. 


SECTION    XII. 

BUTTE    COUNTY. 

Butte  is  a  large  county,  wliicli  includes  part  of  the  basin  of  the  Feather  liver, 
and  reaches  from  the  Sacramento  river  eastward  to  a  line  where  the  tops  of  the 
ridges  are  about  4,000  I'cet  above  the  sea.  The  western  part  of  the  county  is  in 
the  lowland  of  the  Sacramento  valley,  and  a  majority  of  the  people  are  engaged 
in  agricultural  pursuits.  The  higher  portions  are  densely  covered  with  pine 
forests,  on  which  most  of  the  California  turpentine  and  rosin  have  been  made. 

Oroville,  the  county  seat,  is  connected  by  railroad  with  Marysville,  and  the  latter 
place  will  soon  be  connected  with  Sacramento. 

The  county  debt  of  Butte  is  $280,000,  and  the  State  and  county  taxes,  $3  30 
for  the  current  j-ear. 

Feather  river  \\-as  extremely  rich  in  early  days,  but  it  is  now  worked  out ;  or, 
at  least,  no  extensive  fluming  or  damming  enterprise  in  the  river  has  paid  within 
the  last  eight  years. 

The  town  of  Oroville  stands  on  a  bed  of  auriferous  gravel  which  may  pay  for 
washing  at  some  day. 

Butte  Table  .MomsTTArNr. — The  most  prominent  topographical  feature  of 
Butte  county  is  the  Butte  Table  mountain,  which  rises  at  Lassen's  peak  and  flows 
doASTi  as  a  river  of  basalt  to  Oroville,  where  it  tenninates  on  tlie  north  bank  of 
Feather  river,  which  it  never  crossed,  or  else  all  south  of  the  stream  has  been 
fewept  away,  imless  certain  peaks  near  Bangor  are  remains  of  it.  The  course  was 
nearly  south,  and  its  general  elevation  above  the  plain  near  Oroville  is  1,000  feet. 
Tlie  width  averages  about  a  mile,  but  there  are  places  where  branches  extend  a 
considerable  distance  to  the  westward.  The  surface  declines  about  100  feet  in  a 
mile  to  the  southward  and  about  50  feet  to  the  mile  to  the  westward.  Is  this 
inclination  to  the  westward  due  to  the  accidental  wear  of  the  sinface  by  the  watei-, 
or  is  it  caused  by  the  upheaval  of  the  SieiTa?  The  inclination  of  50  feet  i:i  a 
mile  to  the  westward,  observed  near  Oroville,  may  not  be  found  along  the  ^\h(ile 
course;  but  if  it  marks  the  entire  length  of  the  basaltic  stream,  it  would  imply 
an  uplifting  of  the  eastern  side. 

This  Table  mountain,  like  the  similar  one  in  Tuolumne  county,  covers  the  Led 
of  an  ancient  auriferous  streani,  but  it  is  neither  so  rich  nor  has  it  been  worluvl 
so  much  as  the  other  basalt-covered  river. 

Chekokee. — The  principal  mining  camp  on  the  Butte  table  mountain  is  Clu  i- 
okce,  wliere  the  basalt  has  been  denuded  for  a  distance  of  foiu- miles,  giving  miners 
an  o])portunity  of  getting  down  to  the  auriferous  gravel.  The  strata  here,  accord- 
ing to  the  obsei-vations  of  Charles  Waldever,  esq.,  are  the  following,  coinmencing 
at  the  top:   basalt,  SO  feet  high;   pipe  day  and  sand,  10  feetj   boulders  burned 


158  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

and  vitrified,  12  feet;  sand  and  clay  mixed  vvitli  quartz  gravel,  20  feet;  pipe  clay, 
12  feet ;  white  quartz  gnivel,  150  feet ;  pipe  clay,  12  feet ;  white  and  j'ellow  quartz 
irravel,  100  feet;  sand,  15  feet;  white  and  yellow  quartz  gravel,  200  feet;  pipe 
clay,  30  feet;  quicksand,  10  feet;  white  quartz  gravel  and  sand,  10  feet;  reddish 
quartz,  10  feet;  blue  gravel,  fn^m  5  to  40  feet.  The  denudation  at  Cherokee  is 
from  300  to  500  feet  deep,  in  some  places  reaching  to  the  top  of  the  upper  laj^er 
of  white  and  yellow  quartz  gi-avel,  and  in  others  reaching  down  to  the  middle  of 
the  second.  In  no  place  is  the  gravel  less  than  20U  feet  deep  in  the  middle  of 
the  channel ;  that  is  the  presumption,  for  the  bottom  of  the  channel  has  not  been 
readied;  but  the  miners  generally  suppose  that  the  lowest  workings  are  veiy 
near  the  bottom.  The  rim-rock  rises  about  150  feet  above  the  bottom  of  the 
channel,  and  is  not  cut  through  to  the  bottom  anywhere  by  canons. 

The  diggings  at  Cherokee  have  been  worked  since  1850,  and  have  always 
paid  moderately  well,  l)ut  there  has  never  been  enough  water.  Most  of  the 
claims  are  suitable  for  the  hydraulic  process.  The  gravel  and  gold  bear  much 
resemblance  to  those  found  at  Smartsville. 

Okegok  Gulch  Gold  Miking  CompajST. — This  is  an  extensive  placer  mine, 
situated  at  the  head  of  Morris  Gulch.  The  basalt,  of  which  Table  Mountain 
chief!}'  consists,  covers  an  ancient  river  bed,  extending  fi'om  Cherokee  Flat  in  a 
southwest wardly  direction  for  a  numlier  of  miles,  until  it  is  lost  in  the  Sacramento 
valley.  When  the  eruption  occuiTed  in  this  locality,  the  bed  of  the  ancient  river 
was  the  lowest  portion  of  the  country.  The  basalt,  occupying  the  river  bed, 
forced  the  water  into  new  channels,  which,  in  process  of  time,  wore  the  s:ui-ound- 
ing  country  down  to  its  present  level.  Being  of  an  indestructible  natm'o,  which 
almost  absolutely  resists  the  action  of  the  elements,  it  protected  the  bed  of 
the  river  from  denuding  agencies,  and  we  thus  find  the  river  bed  in  almost 
exactly  the  same  condition  as  when  it  was  overwhelmed  by  lava  in  remote 
ages. 

The  exceedingly  regular  grade  of  the  surface  of  every  portion  of  this  lava 
flow  not  undermined  by  the  action  of  water  proves  that  the  country  has  not  been 
subject  to  any  great  upheaval. 

In  the  course  of  time  the  Sacramento  river  foiTiied  its  valle}'-  and  the  Feather 
river  cut  its  channel  tlu-ough  the  rocks  towards  the  mountains,  lea^ing  the  ancient 
river  beds  over  a  thousand  feet  above  their  present  levels. 

Moms  Gulch  commenced  at  the  Feather  river,  and  cut  its  coiuse  to  the  north 
into  the  ancient  river  channel,  gradualty  wearing  away  the  bed  rock,  and  causing 
vast  slides  of  rock,  gravel,  sand,  and  the  basalt  cap  into  its  canon,  where,  in 
process  of  ages,  all  was  reduced  and  carried  into  the  Feather  river  in  the  form 
of  sand  and  gravel.  This  gulch  cut  through  the  richest  portion  of  the  ancient 
gravel  bed,  aud  a  large  part  of  the  gold  remaina  in  the  gulch,  rendering  it  one 
of  the  richest  gulches  in  California. 

Oregon  Gulch  was  enriched  from  the  same  source. 

Shirmir  Gulch,  on  the  west,  did  not  reach  the  gravel  in  the  old  river  bed,  or 
at  least  that  portion  which  contains  the  pay  streak. 

Wherever  this  has  been  worked  it  has  proved  rich,  as  just  north  of  Oroville, 
at  the  head  of  Morris  Gidch,  and  at  Cherokee  Flat  for  a  distance  of  over  10 
miles.  Its  width  is  not  definitely  known,  but  at  the  head  of  Mon-is  Gulch  it 
must  be  over  a  mile.  At  Cherokee  Flat,  and  near  Oroville,  the  miners  follow 
down  the  bed  of  the  ancient  stream,  and  in  a  short  distance  the  water,  having  no 
outlet,  becomes  very  troublesome,  and  will  in  time  prevent  work  from  that  direc- 
tion. But  at  the  head  of  IMorris  Gulch  the  miners  fdlow  up  the  stream,  aud 
the  water  drains  off  and  does  not  interfere  with  their  labors. 

This  appears  to  be  almost  tlu^  only  point  where  sufficient  fall  can  be  obtained 
for  a  good  "  dump"  for  hydraulic  mining.  "  Dump"  means  a  sufficient  declivity 
from  the  end  of  the  flume  to  cause  the  tailings  or  debris  fi'om  the  mine  to  run 
off  in  natural  channels  and  not  accumulate  at  the  end  of  the  flume.     This  is 


WEST   OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  159 

very  iiiiport.'int.  Unless  a  mine  lias  a  good  dutiip,  it  cannot  bo  worked  by 
liydiaulii's  to  any  advanfa<^e. 

The  OiViTon  CJuleh  Gold  JMining  Company  are  at  work  at  present  on  a  largo 
slide,  and  still  have  a  good  dump.  But  when  they  follow  the  lead  under  tlie 
basalt,  they  will  lind  the  bed  rock  much  higher  than  whoro  they  are  now  at  work. 
This  will  give  them  an  excellent  dump,  sutKcient  to  wash  all  the  gravel  under 
the  mountain  up  to  Cherokee  Flat.  The  indications  are  that  they  are  at  work 
on  the  western  side  of  the  lead  or  pay  streak,  and  as  they  folhtw  into  the  moun- 
tain they  will  get  nearer  its  centre,  Avhere  the  gravel  will  probably  l)e  richer  than 
wliero  they  are  working  at  present,  and  much  more  water  will  bo  met  with.  This 
will  be  a  great  assistance  in  washing  the  sand  and  gravel.  Except  in  an  abun- 
dant supply  of  water  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  the  natural  facilities  for  working 
this  claim  are  superior  to  those  of  any  other  claim  of  a  similar  nature  in  this 
vicinity. 

They  have  been  turned  to  good  account  by  tbe  manager  of  the  company,  Mr. 
"William  Hendricks.  All  the  work  has  been  done  in  a  thorongh  and  miner-like 
manner.  The  position  of  the  company's  flume  is  lower  than  any  other  in  tliis 
locality,  so  that,  as  the  Avork  progresses,  all  the  water  in  the  mountain  must  pass 
through  it ;  this  is  important,  as  the  use  of  the  water  in  the  mountain  will  be  of 
great  value. 

The  scarcity  of  water  in  tke  dry  season  will  only  delay  the  working  of  the 
mine.  If  water  sliould  be  brought  in  by  a  ditch  company,  work  could  be  con- 
tinued during  the  whole  year,  which  would  be  a  great  advantage,  but  this  would 
in  a  measure  be  neutralized  by  the  cost  of  the  water. 

The  expense  of  bringing  water  to  a  desirable  point,  either  by  pumping  it  up 
from  the  river  or  by  iron  pipes,  is  so  great  that  it  is  difficult  to  see  any  profit  in 
the  enterprise,  imless  the  mine  owners  in  the  mountain  should  bring  it  in  for 
their  own  use. 

These  mountain  claims  are  among  the  most  enduring  placer  mines  in  California. 
This  ancient  river  bed  is  as  rich  as  the  bed  of  Feather  river ;  and  a  company 
owning  half  or  a  whole  mile  of  the  Feather  river  bed,  as  rich  as  it  was  before 
it  was  worked,  would  have  possessed  one  of  the  most  valual>le  mines  in  the 
world.  The  cost  of  working  the  old  bed  under  the  mountain  will  not  be  greater 
than  that  requu-ed  to  flume  and  drain  Feather  river. 

The  climate  is  mild  and  healthful.  Mining  operations  can  bo  prosecuted  at 
all  seasons  of  the  year.  Being  within  four  miles  of  the  terminus  of  the  Marys- 
villo  and  Oroville  railroad,  labor  and  all  supplies  required  in  mining  can  be 
obtained  as  cheaply  as  at  any  other  mining  locality  in  California. 

The  Chekokee  Blue  Gkatel  Claim. — The  Cherokee  Flat  Blue  Gravel 
Companj-  have  a  claim  a  mile  wide  across  the  mountain  by  two  miles  long  on  its 
coui'se,  south  of  Cherokee.  They  have  been  trying  to  get  into  the  channel,  but 
have  not  yet  succeeded.  They  stalled  a  low  tunnel,  which  ran  into  trap  rock 
so  hard  that  work  was  stopped,  and  then  a  shaft  was  sunk  155  feet  deep,  and 
the  water  became  so  troublesome  that  that  had  to  bo  abandoned ;  and  then  an 
incline  was  commenced,  and  that  has  reached  the  red  gravel,  which  is  su])posed 
to  rest  on  the  blue  cement.  The  claim  is  probably  very  valuable,  but  much  time 
and  money  may  be  requu'od  to  open  it.  The  company  is  inco]{)orated  in  San 
Francisco.  A  steam  piump  is  used  for  hoisting  water  from  the  incline.  The  claim 
has  been  worked  since  1856,  and  the  present  company  have  spent  S70,0U0.  'I'he 
blue  cement  supposed  to  be  on  the  l)ed  rock,  where  it  has  been  reached,  has  yielded 
$8  per  day  to  the  hand,  when  worked  under  great  inconvenience,  and  has  been 
soft  enough  to  be  washed  in  a  sluice  without  crushing. 

The  Eureka  Claim. — The  Eureka  Company  cut  a  tunnel  000  feet  long, 
and,  alter  nine  years'  work,  got  into  gravel,  but  did  not  succeed  in  making 
enough  to  repay  them  for  840,000  expended.  They  are  not  at  work  now.  The 
tunnel  is  106  feet  below  the  top  of  the  rim  rock. 


160  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

The  Cherokee  Claim. — The  Cherokee  Company,  who  have  a  piping  claim 
in  the  flat,  took  out  $54,000  in  50  days'  washing  in  1866  from  a  stratum  seven 
feet  deep,  100  feet  wide  and  300  feet  long.  The  company  owti  50  acres,  have 
piped  away  about  six,  have  expended  $150,000,  and  have  extracted  $500,000. 
They  had  water  to  Avash  60  days  this  year,  and  in  one  diy  season  they  could 
wash  only  10  days.  It  is  to  be  presumed  from  the  yield  of  the  small  part  of 
their  claim  already  worked,  that  if  they  had  an  abundant  supply  of  water  they 
might  produce  more  than  any  other  placer  claim  in  the  State. 

Welch  &  Co.,  adjoining  the  Cherokee  Flat  Blue  Gravel  Company,  have  a 
claim  100  feet  square,  from  which  they  have  taken  $25,000. 

DiAMO]s"DS. — Cherokee  has  been  notable  for  the  production  of  diamonds,  a 
number  ha^nng  been  obtained  here.  They  are  mostly  found  in  the  red  gravel 
next  to  the  blue  cement  at  the  bottom  of  the  channel.  This  ''red  gravel,"  as  it 
called,  is  a  stratum  of  tough  red  clay  enclosing  pebbles  of  various  kinds,  mostly 
quartz  and  green-stone.  The  gems  have  not  been  observed  in  this  stratum,  but 
after  portions  of  it  have  been  washed,  they  have  been  picked  up  in  the  sluice. 
Some  persons  have  spent  days  and  weeks  in  hunting  for  diamonds,  but  without 
avail.  They  are  not  sufficiently  numerous  or  valuable  to  pay  for  a  special  search. 
The  metal  in  the  red  gravel  is  more  valuable  than  the  stones.  If  at  some  future 
time  there  should  be  an  opportunity  to  wash  much  of  this  stratum,  attention  will 
no  doubt  be  given  to  the  diamonds,  which  might,  under  favorable  circumstances, 
be  obtained  in  sufficient  quantity  to  reward  the  extra  care  required  in  collecting 
them.  Those  found  at  Cherokee  are  nearly  all  clear,  and  so  brilliant  at  the  sur- 
face and  so  regular  in  then-  crystallization,  that  no  doubt  of  their  character  could 
remain  in  the  mind  of  any  one  familiar  with  the  natural  form. 

MoERis,  NiMSHEW,  AND  KiMSHEW. — Between  Cherokee  and  Oroville  Moms 
ravine  has  cut  deep  down  into  Table  mountain,  and  has  washed  away  much 
aui'iferous  gravel,  but  has  not  enabled  the  miners  to  get  fairly  into  the  channel, 
though  they  have  spent  much  money  in  attempting  to  get  in.  The  ravine  claims 
were  ver}^  rich. 

Nimshew  and  Kimshew  are  places  north  of  Cherokee  where  tunnels  have  been 
run  in  to  strike  the  old  channel  under  Table  mountain,  but  they  have  not  paid 
much. 

Bangor. — Bangor  is  12  miles  southeastward  from  Oroville  on  an  old  channel, 
the  bed  of  which  is  about  60  feet  below  the  level  of  the  lowest  ravines  in  the 
neighborhood.  At  the  bottom  of  this  channel  is  a  deposit  of  hard  blue  cement, 
about  60  feet  wide  and  six  feet  deep.  In  this  cement  are  found  boulders  weigh- 
ing several  tons,  and  the  gravel  is  green-stone,  trap,  gi-anite,  slate,  and  quartz  j 
the  last  being  not  more  than  one-eighth  of  all  the  gravel.  The  stream  seems  to 
have  been  about  as  large  as  Feather  river,  and  to  have  ran  toward  Oroville  with 
a  grade  of  five  feet  in  100.  Over  the  pay  stratum  there  is  a  barren  grayish 
cement,  softer  than  the  blue. 

This  channel  was  discovered  in  1857  by  some  placer  miners,  Avho,  while  rmi- 
ning  a  cut  in  a  ravine,  found  the  bed  rock  dipping  down,  and  aftcn-  following  it 
as  far  as  they  could  in  the  cut,  they  went  off  some  feet  and  sunk  a  shaft,  which 
in  65  feet  struck  a  rich  stratum,  which  paid  $100  per  da}'-  to  the  hand.  The 
existence  of  a  channel  being  proved,  the  outcroppings  of  the  rim  rock  at  the 
ravines  and  on  the  hill-sides  showed  its  coiu'se,  and  it  was  claimed  for  miles.  The 
pioneer  claim  was  known  as  Boyle's. 

The  claim  in  which  the  channel  was  next  opened  was  that  of  Tucker,  to  the 
southeast.  Tiiis  claim  was  worked  three  or  J'our  years,  but  did  not  yield  much 
profit,  the  pay  stratum  being  found  for  a  distance  of  only  200  feet. 

The  Floyd  claim,  adjoining  Tucker,  the  third  in  reaching  the  pay,  was  worked 
for  a  year  and  half,  in  which  time  the  pay  dirt  was  exhausted.  The  cement  was 
so  tough  that  it  was  washed  eight  or  nine  times,  and  was  not  entirely  dissolved 
then.    The  yield  from  the  fii'st  five  washings  was  $46,500 ;  the  expenses  $1 4,500 ; 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY   MOUNTAINS.  161 

the  (lividenils  $32,000,  About  $2.3,000  was  obtaiiKnl  from  tlio  first  washing;  as 
for  tlio  production  of  the  washiness  after  the  iiftli,  no  information  couhl  be  obtained, 
but  it  was  probably  quite  small.  This  claim  was  .'JOO  I'eet  loui^,  and  pay  was 
found  for  a  length  of  220  feet  in  the  channel.  The  shaft  reached  the  pay  in 
April,  1858,  and  it  has  been  customary  to  wash  the  dirt  every  spring. 

Next  to  Floyd's  was  the  Orovillo  claim,  GOO  feet  long.  It  was  worked  by 
three  shafts  and  paid  well  for  several  years.  Common  report  says  the  bed  rock 
was  not  well  cleaned. 

Between  the  Oroville  and  Boyle  claims  the  channel  did  not  pay  in  any  place, 
though  many  shafts  were  sunk.  Southeast  of  Tucker's  notliing  was  fomid,  and 
it  is  doubtful,  according  to  some  miners,  whether  the  channel  was  struck. 

The  Baruum  claim,  northwest  of  Boyle's,  is  1,500  feet  long,  and  was  opened 
in  18G1  by  a  shaft,  which  struck  the  pay  stratum  at  a  depth  of  55  feet.  Two 
hundred  feet  of  the  channel  were  worked  out  in  a  year  and  a  half,  and  the  dirt 
was  washed  three  times  in  a  sluice  300  feet  long.  The  first  washing,  imme- 
diately after  the  cement  was  extracted,  yielded  $8,000;  the  second,  a  year  later, 
gave  $2,000 ;  and  the  third,  after  an  interval  of  two  years,  yielded  $1,500.  The 
dirt  is  not  fully  washed  yet,  and  it  is  saved  to  be  put  through  the  sluice  again. 
Two  other  shafts  have  been  sunk,  but  nothing  has  been  taken  out  of  them  as 
yet,  though  good  prospects  have  been  found  in  one  of  them.  Several  companies 
are  prospecting  for  the  channel  northwest  of  the  Barnum  claim. 

Cement  Barrel. — At  the  Barnum  claim  Mr.  E.  Bassett  has  been  trying  to 
reduce  cement  in  a  barrel  eight  feet  long  and  three  feet  in  diameter,  made  of 
boiler  iron.  An  iron  pipe  runs  through  the  barrel,  passing  through  hollow  jour- 
nals, and  through  this  pipe  exhaust  steam  from  the  engine  is  to  pass,  so  as  to 
heat  the  cement.  There  are  two  doors  opposite  to  each  other  in  the  barrel,  each 
10  by  14  inches,  for  charging  and  discharging.  A  ton  of  cement,  10  pounds  of 
quicksilver,  and  60  gallons  of  water  will  be  a  charge,  and  when  the  door  is 
fastened  down  the  steam  will  be  turned  on ;  the  barrel  will  be  set  to  revolving 
at  the  rate  of  20  revolutions  per  minute.  In  20  minutes  the  cement  will  be  at 
boiling  heat,  and  in  50  minutes  it  will  all  be  disintegrated.  One  hour  will  be 
required  for  a  charge,  including  charging  and  discharging.  There  is  no  doubt 
that  the  cement  can  be  disintegrated  in  this  manner,  and  the  expense  does  not 
exceed  25  cents  per  ton.  The  barrels  are  lined  with  wood  set  endways,  two  and 
a  half  inches  thick. 

"Wyandotte. — Wyandotte,  sixteen  miles  west  of  Forbestown,  has  some  ravine 
claims,  half  a  dozen  hydraulic  claims,  and  an  ancient  channel,  the  same  that  is 
worked  at  Bangor.  This  channel  is  50  feet  below  the  level  of  a  creek  that 
passes  Wyandotte,  and  thus  there  is  no  natural  drainage,  and  the  blue  cement  at 
the  bottom  of  the  channel  is  not  supposed  to  be  rich  enough  to  pay  for  pump- 
ing. Several  shafts  have  been  sunk  to  the  l)ottom,  striking  the  channel.  The 
hydraulic  claims  at  Wyandotte  have  banks  75  feet  high,  and  take.  40  inches  of 
water  each  on  an  average,  with  a  pressure  of  75  feet.  There  is  a  large  body  of 
this  gravel.  A  thousand  inches  of  water  are  purchased  here,  a  small  j^ortion  of 
it  for  inigating  orchards  and  vineyards,  but  mostly  for  shallow  mining. 

Forbestown. — Forbestown,  22  miles  eastward  from  Orovillo,  on  the  main 
divide  Ix'tween  the  Yuba  and  Feather  river,  and  on  the  main  road  between  Oro- 
villo and  La  Porte,  has  quartz  and  placer  mines,  lumbering  and  turpentine-making 
among  its  resources. 

The  town  was  in  its  most  flourishing  condition  in  1855,  when  it  polled  about 
400  votes,  and  now  it  polls  only  al)Out  100. 

The  shipment  of  gold  from  Forbestown  in  1866  was  $135,000;  from  the  1st 
September,  1866,  to' the  15th  July,  1867,  it  Avas  $80,121. 

There  are  a  number  of  springs  on  the  ridge  near  Forbestown,  all  about  the 
same  level,  and  all  have  cold  water.     No  town  in  the  State  has  so  large  a  supply 
of  cold  and  good  water  from  springs  above  the  level  of  the  main  street. 
11 


162  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

In  Ko1)inson's  liill,  near  town,  there  are  a  number  of.  quartz  veins,  most  of 
tliem  small,  and  many  of  tliem  visibly  auriferous. 

New  York  Flat  is  tlie  principal  mining  district  near  Forhestown.  Three 
liydranlic  claims  are  at  work  there  now,  employing'  in  all  about  20  men.  In 
1S66,  four  companies  there  took  out  $50,000. 

There  has  Ijeen  some  difficulty  about  drainage,  and  the  Nevada  Company  are 
making  a  deep  cut  to  be  half  a  mile  long,  and  to  drain  a  body  of  ground  4,000 
feel  long  and  300  feet  wide,  supposed  to  be  rich. 

Moor.EViLLE  AND  EvAKSViLLE. — Moorcvillc,  in  the  southeastern  corner  of 
(he  county,  has  a  large  body  of  auriferous  gravel,  in  a  good  position  for  piping, 
except  that  it  is  difficult  to  get  water  high  enough.  There  was  a  ditch  which 
was  too  low  down,  and  it  has  now  gone  to  ruin.  A  new  one  to  be  60  feet  higher 
has  been  commenced,  but  no  work  is  being  done  at  it  now.  Some  doubt  is 
entertained  whether  the  gravel  is  rich  enough  to  pay  for  washing. 

Evansville,  four  miles  southwest  of  Forhestown,  purchases  200  inches  of  water, 
some  of  it  for  mining  and  some  for  iirigation, 

Eangor  Quaktz  Regulations. — Each  mining  district  in  Butte  county  has 
its  own  quartz  regulations. 

The  regulations  of  the  Bangor  district  contain  the  following  pro\'isions  : 

Article  2.  Tbe  size  of  a,  mining  claim  in  this  district  shall  be  as  follows  :  for  mvine  or 
surface  mininj^  a  hundred  yards  square,  provided  that  a  ravine  claim  shall  extend  from  bank 
to  bank  ;  for  blue  lead  claims  a  hundred  feet  in  length  and  extending  from  rim  to  rim  ;  for 
quartz  or  other  mineral-bearing  rock  2lJU  feet  on  the  lead  with  its  spurs  and  angles,  and 
100  feet  on  each  side  of  said  lead,  with  sufficient  ground  adjacent  thereto  for  the  erection 
of  the  necessary  works. 

Art.  4.  Persons  locating  claims  in  this  district  shall  post  in  one  or  more  conspicuous 
place  or  places  thereon  a  notice  containing  the  number  of  claims,  with  the  names  of  th^ 
locaters  and  a  general  description  of  the  ground  claimed,  with  the  boundaries  thereof,  and 
within  10  days  thereafter  file  with  the  district  recorder,  hereafter  to  bo  provided  for,  ageneral 
description  of  said  claim,  with  the  boundaries  thereof  sufficiently  distinct  as  to  bo  easily 
found  by  reference  to  the  record,  which  record  and  notice  shall  be  buna  fide  proof  of  posses- 
sion of  said  claims  for  the  space  of  90  days  from  date  of  record  thereof. 

Art.  5.  After  the  expiriition  of  the  90  days  mentioned  in  the  previous  article,  all 
claims  shall  be  deemed  abandoned,  unless  the  parties  locating  the  same  shall  proceed  to  work 
them  in  good  faith,  and  by  expending  in  labor  and  improvements  at  least  $5  per  month 
for  each  iuO  feet  claimed  until  the  amount  so  expended  shall  amount  to  $60  for  each  100 
feet  of  the  whole  amount  claimed. 

Art.  ().  Parties  having  complied  with  articles  four  and  five  shall  be  entitled  to  hold  their 
claims  without  further  expense  for  two  years. 

FoRLESTOWN  ]\IlxiNG  REGULATIONS. — The  mining  regulations  of  the  Forbes- 
town  district  now  in  force  were  adojjted  on  the  9th  June,  1863,  and  48  quartz 
claims  are  recorded  in  the  district. 

The  following  arc  the  main  provisions  : 

The  size  of  an  individual  claim  on  gold-bearing,  silver,  or  other  mineral  veins  shall  be  100 
feet  in  length  on  the  ledge  vein  or  lode,  including  all  lateral  spurs,  angles,  variations,  and 
inlcrsecting  veins,  with  a  width  of  200  feet  on  both  sides  of  the  ledge. 

When  there  is  conflict  in  boundary,  or  as  to  location,  the  claim  or  claims  first  located  shall 
have  priority  of  right;  location  and  property  and  the  claiui  subsequent  iu  date,  i4' it  is  a 
lateral  interference,  may  bo  extended  by  expansion  on  the  other  side,  if  desired,  provided  the 
same  does  not  intcvl'cre  with  a  prita-  location. 

Every  claim  located  in  this  district  must  liave  good,  substantial  notices,  specifically  setting 
forth  the  din.'ction,  nature,  and  extent  of  the  claim,  posted  at  each  end  of  the  same  in  some 
conspicuous  place,  and  a  copy  thereof  filed  iu  the  office  of  the  recorder  within  10  days 
thereafter. 

Each  quartz  mining  company  who  have  claims  in  this  district,  upon  which  $.")0  worth  of 
■work  shall  have  been  expended,  must  be  worked  upon  in  good  faith  at  least  two  in  every  W  ■ 
daysby  the  company  hiikliiig said  claims,  and  all  ground  which  shall  not  liave  been  si»  worked 
within  ;;o  days  shall  be  deemed  vacant  ground  and  sub|ect  to  location  the  same  as  though 
it  had  not  been  located.  Those  claims  on  whlcli  work  to  the  amount  of  $o0  shall  be  done 
may  be  held  by  the  claimants  for  the  period  of  six  months  after  work  shall  have  been  stopped 
on  the  same,  when  the  claim  shall  be  considered  abandoned. 

The  size  of  a  plaoer  or  ravine  claim  shall  be  100  I'cet  iu  length,  running  up  and  down  the 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  163 

ravine,  and  the  owner  or  owners  of  said  claim  or  cluims  can  work  tlio  same  as  wide  as  lie  ot 
they  chcose,  and  if  a  qnartz  lode  rniis  across  the  placer  claim  the  owner  of  the  saiiio  shall 
be  entitled  to  1(H)  feet  of  the  quartz  lode,  50  feet  ou  each  side  of  the  main  or  deepest  channc] 
runuin<^  through  his  claim. 

Nisr.ET  Qi'ARTZ  MiXE. — The  Nisbet  Mining-  Company,  incorporated  in  I\rarvs- 
ville,  has  a  mine  3,600  feet  long  on  a  vein  which  runs  north  and  south,  dips  50*^ 
to  the  east,  and  averages  two  feet  in  width  at  Oregon  City.  The  walls  arc  of 
slate.  The  main  shaft  or  incline  is  down  160  feet,  and  drifts  have  been  run  700 
feet  on  the  vein,  in  pay  all  the  way.  The  lode  varies  inthiclvuessfroni  six  inches 
to  nine  feet;  in  very  narrow  places  sulphurets  form  one-tenth  of  the  vein,  and  in 
the  widest  not  more  than  a  hundredth.  The  siilphurets  assay  from  $1,300  to 
$  1 ,600  per  ton  ;  are  caught  in  a  sluice  and  are  saved  to  be  worked  at  some  time  in 
the  future.  The  mill  has  eight  stamps,  and  there  is  a  txx-inch  })ump  for  drainage, 
all  driven  by  steam.  "Work  was  connnenced  on  the  mine  with  arrastras  in  1S51, 
and  the  present  mill  was  built  in  1S64.  The  yield  at  the  surface  was  834  poi 
ton;  and  of  late  it  has  been  $10,  exclusive  of  the  sulphurets,  for  the  reduction 
of  which  no  arrangements  have  been  made.  Thirteen  nien  are  employed  ;  nine 
white  nrcn  and  four  Chinamen.  The  latter  are  considered  better  feeders  because 
they  do  not  become  impatient  and  dissatisfied  with  the  monotony  of  the  labor. 

Spring  Vallev. — The  Spring  Valley  mine,  a  mile  and  a  half  east  of  Chero- 
kee, is  on  a  vein  which  runs  nortli  and  south,  is  seven  feet  wide,  and  is  nearly 
horizontal  at  the  surface  for  200  (oct,  and  dips  50°  to  the  east.  The  claim  is  300 
feet  long.  There  was  a  10-stamp  mill  which  crushed  several  thousand  tons  of 
rock,  and  extracted,  according  to  report,  from  810  to  $24  per  ton.  The  mill  was 
biu'ned  down  and  work  ceased  on  the  mine,  but  lately  Avork  hns  been  resumed, 
but  there  is  no  new  mill  as  yet. 

OTnEii  Quartz  ]\Iixes  of  Butte. — The  Powell  mill,  at  Oregon  City,  has 
12  stamps,  and  has  been  idle  a  year. 

The  liock  River  mill,  which  stood  between  Oregon  City  and  Cherokee,  has 
been  removed.     There  was  a  roasting  furnace  attached  to  it. 

There  is  a  five-stamp  quartz  mill  at  Jlount  Hope,  not  running. 

Three  quartz  mills  at  Yankee  Hill  have  been  burned  down — the  Yankee  Hill, 
the  Virgin,  and  the  Fuller. 

Derrick's  quartz  mill,  at  Oregon  City,  was  taken  across  the  mountains  in  1863, 
and  stays  there. 

White  &  Nutter's  mill,  at  Oregon  City,  was  moved  away  in  1866. 

The  Bloomer  Hill  mill,  14  miles  north  of  Oroville,  has  eight  stamps,  and  is 
now  ruiniing,  but  the  mine  is  pockety,  and  the  jneld  is  veiy  irregular. 

Near  Lovelock's,  seven  or  eight  miles  above  Dogtown,  an  arrastra  is  running. 

Smith  &  Sparks's  tnine,  two  miles  and  a  half  northeast  of  Oroville,  is  on  a  vein 
four  feet  wide,  running  north-northwest,  and  dipping  northeast.  The  walls  are 
of  slate.  The  nrill  has  eight  stamps,  was  built  in  1865,  and  rebuilt  in  1864.  It 
lias  been  standing  idle  for  two  j^ears.     The  owners  are  mostly  San  Franciscans. 

The  Forbestown  Mining  Company  own  15,000  feet  in  9  or  10  claims,  on  dif- 
ferent lodes.  Mexican  lode  No.  1  is  five  feet  wide,  and  has  yielded  820  per  ton 
for  100  tons;  and  Mexican  lode  No.  2  is  12  feet  wide,  and  has  yielded  $10  per 
ton  for  200  tons.  There  is  a  live-stamp  steam  mill  which  has  not  been  used 
exce])t  for  prospecting  purposes,  and  is  now  standing  idle. 

The  Shakspeare  mine,  3,000  feet  long,  has  a  vein  12  feet  wide  and  has  been 
opened  by  a  small  shaft.     Ten  tons  yielded  810  per  ton. 

The  Polecat  lode,  one  mile  from  Forbestown,  is  two  feet  wide,  and  100  tons 
of  its  quartz  yielded  81,200. 


164  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND   TERRITORIES 


SECTION    XIII. 

PLUMAS    COUNTY. 

Plnmas  connty  comprises  the  more  elevated  portion  of  tlie  basin  of  Feather 
river.  It  is  liigb,  rugged,  and  wild.  Lassen's  Peak  fonns  the  northwestern 
corner,  and  that  was  a  great  centre  of  volcanic  energy,  from  which  lava  and  scoria 
were  poured  or  blown  out  upon  the  adjacent  country.  The  ancient  rivers  which 
appear  at  Montecristo  and  at  Brandy  City,  in  Sierra,  ran  through  Plumas,  but 
their  com'se  has  not  been  traced  so  distinctly,  nor  have  they  been  worked  with 
so  much  profit.  In  most  places  where  the  channels  have  been  found,  they  are 
covered  so  deep  with  volcanic  matter,  and  the  pay  stratum  is  so  difficult  of  access, 
that  the  profits  of  working  have  been  moderate.  On  the  other  hand,  there  is 
reason  to  believe  that  many  extensive  gravel  deposits  in  this  county  will  be  worked 
at  a  profit  -uathin  a  few  years,  and  that  gravel  mining  will  make  more  progress 
here  for  years  to  come  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  State. 

The  county  is  very  rich  in  quartz,  and  American  valley  and  Indian  valley  are 
two  of  the  main  centres  of  quartz-mining  industry  in  California.  There  are  many 
rich  veins  of  copper,  but  they  cannot  be  worked  with  a  profit  at  present.  At 
least,  none  has  yielded  any  profit,  although  one  is  being  worked  now. 

The  principal  placer-mining  camps,  all  on  old  channels,  are  La  Poile,  Secret 
Diggings,  Gibsonville,  Saw  Pit  Flat,  Little  Grass  Valley,  Onion  Valley,  Wash- 
ington, Hungarian  Hill,  Badger  Hiil,  Eagle  Gulch,  Grizzly  Creek,  and  Spanish 
Eanch. 

Qlie  quartz  veins  in  Plumas  generally  run  east  and  west,  and  dip  to  the  south 
at  an  angle  of  45°. 

Beckwourth's  Pass. — Plumas  county  possesses  in  Beckwourth's  pass  the 
lowest  across  the  Sierra  Nevada ;  but  it  is  not  in  the  direct  line  of  travel  between 
Sacramento  and  Virginia  City,  and  therefore  it  is  not  much  used.  The  elevation  is 
4,500  feet  above  the  sea,  and  the  latitude  39°  50'.  The  pass  proper  is  two  miles 
long,  and  for  12  miles  the  road  has  an  elevation  of  more  than  4,000  feet  above 
the  sea.  Last  winter  the  snow,  at  the  deepest,  was  two  feet  and  a  half  on  the 
summit — not  enough  to  interfere  seriously  with  travel,  even  if  nothing  were  done 
to  beat  it  down.  Heretofore  the  road  west  of  Quincy  has  crossed  a  ridge  G,000 
feet  high  with  IS  miles  of  snow-belt, but  a  roadistobeconsti-ucteddownacauon, 
so  that  there  ^\•iU  be  a  continuous  descent  from  Quincy  (which  is  3,400  feet  above 
the  sea)  to  Oroville ;  and  then  there  will  be  no  more  trouble  from  snow.  The 
last  legislature  authorized  Plumas  county  to  issue  bonds  to  the  amount  of  665,000 
to  aid  in  the  construction  of  a  road  along  the  north  fork  of  Feather  river  to  Beck- 
Avourth's  pass,  and  a  company  has  commenced  Avork.  The  first  30  miles  out 
from  Oroville  are  to  be  on  railroad  grade ;  and  the  whole  work  is  to  be  finished 
in  1868,  at  a  cost  of  $140,000.  The  superiority  of  this  route  for  wagon  travel, 
in  every  respect  save  distance,  is  admitted  by  all  persons  familiar  with  the  differ- 
ent passes  over  the  Siena. 

CoNLY  AND  Go-well's  Claim. — Conly  and  Gowell  have  a  very  large  claim 
at  La  Porte,  made  up  of  100  original  claims.  It  includes  the  entire  old  chan- 
nel 500  feet  wdde,  and  extends  into  the  hill  half  a  mile  or  more. 

During  the  water  season  they  use  3,000  inches  of  water,  at  least  so  long  as 
they  can'get  so  much  ;  they  employ  50  men,  and  so  anxious  are  they  to  avoid 
any  loss  of  time  while  they  can  get  water,  that  they  run  continuously  through  the 
season,  cleaning  up  only  once  a  year. 

The  dirt  is  soft,  and  1.200  inches  of  water  bring  down  as  much  as  3,000  can 
carry  oft',  so  only  1,200  are  throA\ii  through  pipes,  the  remaining  1,800  inches 
beino-  allowed  to  run  down  over  the  bank.  There  are  three  sets  of  pipes,  three 
or  four-  in  each  set.     The  pressm-e  is  100  feet.     Twelve  men  take  chai-ge  of  the 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  165 

pipes  by  Tii>:^lit,  and  as  many  move  by  day ;  and  2G  men  arc  employed  in  sliovel- 
lini:^  bod  rook  and  pay  dirt,  movino*  boulders  out  of  tlio  way,  and  so  ibrtli. 

Tlie  day  liands  work  10  hours  and  the  night  hands  12  hours,  and  the  pay  foi 
each  is  S3  50  per  day.  At  nii^ht  torches  are  made  in  iron  baskets  resting-  upon 
iron  posts  aboiit  five  feet  from  the  ground.  In  these  baskets  pine  wood  is  burncid. 
giving  a  ver}'  good  light.  Fires  arc  also  built  on  the  ground  so  that  the  men 
can  warm  themselves. 

The  claim  has  outlet  through  two  tunnels.  The  Northampton  tunnel  is  2,000 
feet  long,  has  a  sluice  six  feet  wide,  and  cost  $100,000.  Ten  years  were  spent 
in  cutting  500  feet,  so  hard  was  the  rock.  The  Warren  Hill  tunnel  is  2,000  feet 
long  and  5  feet  wide,  and  cost  $15,000.  The  grade  of  both  tunnels  is  4  inches 
in  16  feet.  The  Northampton  tunnel  receives  the  dirt  from  two  surface  sluices, 
and  usually  carries  2,000  inches  of  water ;  the  Warren  Hill  receives  one  sluice 
and  carries  1,000  inches.  The  ground  and  the  outlet  do  not  permit  the  use  of  a 
steeper  grade ;  and,  as  no  small  sluice  could  wash  on  that  grade,  it  was  necessary 
for  the  owners  of  small  claims  to  sell  out  and  let  them  be  consolidated  in  one 
large  claim.  Another  tunnel  is  being  cut,  to  be  3,000  feet  long,  to  drain  another 
part  of  the  claim. 

Under-currents  are  not  used  here.  Width  is  considered  particularly  desirable 
in  sluices.  The  paving  in  the  sluices  consists  of  boulders  as  large  as  a  man  can 
lift,  and  they  are  worn  out  in  a  Season.  The  water  is  shut  oS"  for  an  hour  at 
noon  ever}'  day,  and  men  examine  the  whole  length  of  the  sluices,  to  see  that 
the  paving  is  all  right  and  to  repair  any  breaks. 

About  a  ton  of  quicksilver  is  })ut  into  the  sluices  in  a  season,  and  one  quarter 
of  it  is  lost.  The  mercury,  instead  of  being  thrown  directly  into  the  sluice,  is 
scattered  on  the  surface  of  the  bank  which  is  to  be  washed  down.  It  is  put  into 
a  can  made  of  Russian  sheet-iron,  large  enough  to  hold  40  pounds,  and  the  cap 
or  nozzle  of  the  can  is  perforated  with  holes  an  eighth  or  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in 
diameter,  through  which  the  metal  is  sprinkled. 

The  ditch  which  supplies  water  for  the  claim  is  owned  by  the  same  proprietors, 
cost  $100,000,  but  could  now  be  constnicted  for  $50,000.    The  length  is  13  miles. 

The  preservation  of  the  Humes  against  the  snow  is  expensive.  Whenever  a 
snow-storm  comes  on  men  are  sent  to  shovel  the  snow  off",  lest  the  weight  should 
break  down  the  flume ;  and  then  the  snow  must  be  shovelled  away  from  the  flume 
on  the  hillsides  above,  for  the  snow  bank  moves  slowly  down  hill  with  tremen- 
dous pressure,  which  no  flume  could  resist.  The  trees  on  the  hillsides  show  this 
influence,  for  they  are  all  bent  down  hill,  and  many  are  broken  down  every  winter. 
It  is  necessary  to  cover  the  iron  pipes  with  strong  timber,  or  they  would  be  crushed 
flat  by  the  wx^ight  of  the  snow.     The  pipe  used  in  this  claim  cost  $2,000. 

The  channel  is  500  feet  wide;  the  grade,  50  feet  to  a  mile;  the  rim-rock,  100 
feet  high  on  the  east  and  20  on  the  west,  on  an  average.  The  deposit  of  gravel 
is  100  feet  deep.  It  is  white  near  the  top ;  red,  blue,  and  black  at  the  bottom. 
There  are  many  boulders  of  quartz  quite  black.  In  the  upper  strata  the  pebbles 
are  sehhjm  larger  than  a  goose  egg;  in  the  lower  there  are  many  boulders  from 
G  to  20  inches  in  diameter.  At  the  bottom  is  a  layer  two  feet  thick  of  hard 
cement,  which  is  crushed  in  a  five-stamp  cement  mill  belonging  to  the  saAc  pro- 
prietors. 

In  18G6  Conly  and  Gowell  washed  off"  a  strip  of  gronnd  1,100  feet  long,  300 
feet  wide,  and  80  feet  deep,  equivalent  to  435,000  tons  of  40  cubic  feet  each. 
The  gross  yield  was  $32,000  and  the  net  $12,000.  If  we  multiply  the  1,100, 
the  300,  and  the  80  together,  we  find  that  26,400,000  cubic  feet,  or  660,000  tons 
of  40  cubic  feet  each,  were  washed  away ;  and  if  we  divide  the  660,000  tons  by 
the  $32,000  we  find  that  20  tons  went  to  $1,  or  that  the  yield  of  the  gravel  per 
ton  was  five  cents.  This  amount  is  so  small  that  it  suggests  the  probability  of 
some  en-or.  It  appears  that  the  expense  of  washing  was  but  three  cents  and  a 
thml  per  ton.     No  other  place  in  the  State  can  wash  dirt  so  cheap. 


166  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

Tlic  number  of  days  spent  in  washing  this  area  was  about  100,  and  the  average 
amount  of  water  used  2,000  inches.  An  inch  is  100  tons  of  water  in  24  hours; 
and  2,000  inches  supplied  in  100  days  20,000,000  tons  of  water  to  move  660,000 
tons  of  gravel,  or'^30  tons  of  water  to  1  ton  of  gravel. 

The  claim  of  Conly  &  Gowell  is  large  enough  to  last  for  20  years  longer. 

Gard  &  Orr  have  a  very  large  claim  alongside  of  Conly  &  Gowell,  use  2,000 
inches  of  water,  and  employ  50  men;  and  their  ground  will  last  20  years. 

It  is  said  that  across  both  of  these  claims  runs  a  perpendicular  dihe  of  lava 
©r  trap,  rising  out  of  the  l)ed-rock  and  passing  through  the  gi'avel  entirely  across 
the  channel.  This  dike  has  never  been  pierced  through,  and  its  size  is  unknown. 
A  similar  dike,  according  to  rumor,  was  found  at  Browii's  diggings,  15  miles 
northwest  of  La  Porte. 

The  two  claims  mentioned  are  the  only  ones  of  any  note  worked  at  La  Porte. 
Ten  years  ago  more  than  50  companies  were  in  profitable  operation  there. 

The  yield  of  La  Porte  and  the  placers  which  sold  their  dust  there,  in  1857, 
was  84,000,000  annually;  now  it  is  81,000,000. 

Secret  Diggings. — Two  miles  south  of  La  Porte  is  Secret  Diggings,  on  the 
same  channel  and  with  similar  gravel.  The  chief  claim  there  is  that  of  King- 
dom &  Co.,  who  have  al^out  a  dozen  old  claims.  They  employ  50  men  and  use 
2,500  inches  of  water.  The  tunnel  through  which  they  wash  cost  $100,000,  and 
is  1,500  feet  long.  Li  1866  they  took  out  $130,000  and  divided  $94,000,  and 
that  was  the  best  yield  the  place  ever  had.  This  year  the  company  have  done 
as  much  work,  but  have  not  divided  a  dollar.  The  pipe  used  by  Kingdom  & 
Co.  cost  them  $15,000.     The  claim  is  80  feet  deep,  and  will  last  many  j-ears. 

Poverty  Hill,  a  mile  and  a  half  below  Secret  Diggings,  on  the  same  old  clian- 
nel,  has  been  worked  on  a  small  scale  for  10  years,  but  the  place  is  now  to  be 
supplied  with  water,  and  will  probably  become  important.  There  is  gravel 
enough  there  to  last  for  50  years. 

Port  Wine. — At  Port  Wine  the  old  channel  is  worked  by  diifting,  and  the 
principal  claims  are  those  of  the  Eagle,  Union,  Montecristo,  Indian  Queen,  Erie, 
Sailor,  Manzanita,  Bunker  Hill,  and  Pioneer  companies. 

The  Eagle  claim  employs  about  a  dozen  men,  all  shareholders,  and  used  to 
pay  very  largely. 

The  Indian  Queen  employs  15  men  and  has  a  tunnel  2,000  feet  long. 

The  Union  employs  40  men,  all  shareholders,  and  the  tunnel  is  to  be  3,000 
feet  long  when  finished. 

The  Montecristo  employs  40  men,  all  shareholders.  The  dirt  is  hoisted  through 
an  incline  by  an  engine,  and  water  for  washing  is  pumped  up. 

The  Erie  employs  10  or  12  men. 

The  Sailor  has  four  or  five  men  at  work. 

Nothing  is  done  in  the  Manzanita  claim. 

The  Bunker  Hill  employs  eight  men. 

The  Pioneer  has  four  men. 

Little  Grass  Valley. — The  first  place  north  of  La  Porte  where  there  is  any 
mining,  on  the  same  channel,  is  Little  Grass  Valley,  three  miles  distant  on  the 
north  3Me  of  the  same  ridge,  between  Ilabbit  creek  and  south  fork  of  Feather 
river.  The  claims  there  have  been  worked  on  a  small  scale  for  ten  years,  but 
the  ground  is  not  rich,  and  the  cutting  of  tunnels  is  very  expensive.  Most  of 
ihc  claims  are  Avorked  by  drifting.  It  is  probable  that  Little  Grass  Valley  will 
become  a  prominent  mining  town  in  time.  Most  of  the  gravel  is  covered  by  a 
bed  of  lava  300  feet  deep. 

("libsonville,  seven  miles  from  La  Porte,  used  to  be  an  important  hydraulic  camp, 
but  now  the  claims  are  worked  by  drifting,  and  the  yield  has  fallen  off  very  much. 

Spanish  Ranch  is  25  miles  from  La  Porte,  on  the  ridge  between  the  South 
Feather  and  the  Middle  Feather  rivers.  The  gravel  is  100  feet  deep,  and  the 
claims  are  worked  by  piping. 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  167 

North  of  Littlo  Crass  Valley  is  Union  Vall(>v,  where  there  arc  two  pipin;^ 
chiiins,  with  banks  40  feet  deep.  AVashiui;  has  been  in  progress  four  years, 
but  there  are  portions  of  the  bank  that  do  nut  pay  well,  and,  as  water  is  not  to 
be  had  most  of  the  year,  the  eonipanies  will  work  l)y  drifting  next  year,  and  seo 
whether  a  better  result  can  be  obtained  in  that  way. 

Twelve  miles  west  of  Saw  Pit  Flat  is  Hungarian  Hill,  where  there  are  threo 
piping  and  two  drifting  chiims.  The  tunnels  run  400  feet  in  the  bed-roek,  to 
drain  the  pay  to  the  bottom.  Twenty-iive  men  are  em])htyed,  and  the  average 
pay  is  about  S8  to  the  man  per  clay. 

Badger  Hill  is  three  miles  west  of  Hungarian  Hill,  and  has  four  piping  and 
five  drifting  companies;  the  yield  is  about  $5  per  day  to  the  man. 

Four  mil(;s  northwestward  from  Badger  Hill  is  Eagle  Gulch,  where  six  com- 
panies, with  six  men  in  each,  are  drifting,  and  all  in  pay.  It  is  supposed  that 
most  of  the  claims  will  be  worked  out  within  two  years. 

Forty  miles  north  of  Quincy  arc  the  Grizzly  Creek  diggings,  wliere  40  men 
are  employed  in  piping.  The  claims  are  50  feet  deep,  and  the  gravel  is  all 
quartz.     The  width  of  the  channel  has  not  been  ascertained. 

Saw  Pit  Flat. — Saw  Pit  Flat  is  on  a  ridge  running  down  from  Pilot  Peak. 
The  claims  are  all  worked  by  drifting,  and  the  place  has  no  ditch,  so  washing  is 
only  possible  from  April  to  June,  while  the  snow  is  melting.  The  extraction 
of  gold  was  commenced  here  about  six  years  ago,  and  thei'c  has  been  a  steady 
increase  in  the  production,  with  a  probal)ility  that  it  will  continue  for  some  years. 
The  pay  dirt  is  reached  through  timnels  that  cost  at  least  $20,000  and  threo 
years'  time  to  complete  tl'em. 

Tiie  New  York  Company  has  been  taking  out  gravel  about  15  months,  and 
have  obtained  830,000  from  it.     Tbere  are  12  men  at  work,  all  shareholders. 

The  Eagle  Company  have  been  in  pay  four  years,  and  have  taken  out  $26,000. 
Eight  or  nine  men  are  employed. 

The  Union  claim  has  12  men,  and  has  been  yielding  pay  four  years. 

Those  are  the  only  companies  that  have  taken  out  pay. 

The  Buckeye  Company  have  reached  pay,  but  have  not  taken  any  out  as  yet. 

Several  tuiniels  are  being  cut  at  Washington  Plill,  a  mile  distant,  on  the  other 
side  of  the  ridge.  Two  companies,  the  American  and  the  Washington,  are  in 
pay. 

The  Eureka  mine,  in  American  valley,  is  1,800  feet  long,  on  a  vein  running 
northeast  and  southwest,  dipping  northeast  at  an  angle  of  45°,  and  varying  in 
width  from  5  to  25  feet.  The  main  pay  chimney  is  250  feet  long,  horizontally, 
and  it  dips  southwest  at  an  angle  of  52"^;  but  at  a  depth  of  300  feet  it  seems  to 
bend  to  the  northeast.  There  are  many  varieties  of  quartz — some  white,  some 
blue,  some  rose-colored,  and  some  dark  brown.  All  the  rock  from  the  pay  chim- 
ney is 'worked,  and  it  has  yielded  from  $10  to  $30,  except  near  the  surface,  where 
it  was  much  richer.  The  present  average  at  300  feet  from  the  surface  is  from 
$14  to  $15.  The  foot  wall  is  granite  and  the  hanging  wall  hard  slate.  There 
are  seven  per  cent,  of  sulphnrets  in  the  rock. 

There  are  two  mills,  one  of  12  and  the  other  of  16  stamps,  both  driven  by 
water  derived  from  an  artilicial  lake,  and  they  are  situated  three-quarters  of  a 
mile  from  the  mine.     The  ore  is  transported  on  a  rail-track. 

The  gold  is  amalgamated  in  the -mortar  and  on  copper  aprons,  and  the  tailings 
are  caught  in  a  dam  and  saved  for  future  working.  There  are  not  less  than 
10,000  tons  collected. 

Besides  the  stamp  mills  there  are  three  Chile  mills  of  cut  stone,  each  wheel 
being  nine  feet  in  diameter  and  two  in  width,  of  granite.  The  bed-stones  aro 
five  feet  in  diameter  and  a  foot  and  a  half  thick.  The  wheels  wear  down  so  as 
to  become  useless  in  three  years;  and,  in  proportion  to  the  power  usetl,  they  do 
not  grind  half  so  much  as  stamps.  About  once  in  threo  months  the  bed-stone 
must  be  picked  down,  so  that  it  will  grind  well. 


168 


RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 


The  snow  lies  seven  months  in  the  year  at  the  mills  and  on  the  track,  and  for 
five  months  the  mill  must  lie  idle  for  lack  of  rock.  The  mills  Inight  be  moved 
to  the  mine  itself,  so  as  to  be  immediately  at  the  mouth  of  a  new  tunnel  that 
n^ight  be  cut  to  strilvC  the  lode  400  feet  below  the  present  workings,  at  a  length 
of  1,800  feet.  The  mills  could  then  run  the  whole  year,  and  might  be  driven 
by  steam,  or  perhaps  by  the  waters  of  Jamison  creek. 

*  Not  less  than  §300,000  have  been  expended  in  improvements,  all  derived  from 
the  mine.  The  total  yield  is  variously  stated,  l)y  those  who  have  had  good  oppor- 
tunities for  knowing,  at  from  §1,400,000  to  $1,600,000. 

The  mine  was  discovered  by  a  party  of  adventurers  who,  in  1850,  were  on  the 
search  for  Gold  lake.  The  mountain  side  was  covered  with  float  quartz,  and 
the  prospecters  took  up  claims  20  i'eet  square.  The  Em-eka  Company,  the  first 
one  incorporated  for  mining  purposes  in  California,  began  operations  in  the  spring 
of  1851,  and  since  then  the  mine  has  paid  continuously.  The  total  dividends 
previous  to  1865  were  6250,000. 

Besides  the  1,800  feet  on  the  Eureka  lode  there  are  2,000  feet  on  other  lodes. 

In  early  days  much  of  the  mine  was  leased  to  jMexicans  and  others,  who 
worked  with  arrastras  and  paid  one-third  of  the  gross  yield.  At  one  time  100 
arrastras  were  running  on  the  Eureka  rock. 

Mammoth. — Adjoining  the  Eureka,  on  the  south,  is  the  Mammoth,  1,200  feet 
long.  The  vein  is  very  variable  in  size  and  quality  in  this  claim,  changing 
suddenly  from  a  few  inches  to  26  feet  in  thickness,  and  then  back  again,  and 
from  very  poor  to  very  rich.  The  quartz  is  white  and  brittle,  and  is  mixed  with 
"slate,  so  that  much  assorting  is  necessary'.  There  is  one  chimney,  20  feet  long 
horizontally,  and  10  feet  thick,  nearly  vertical,  and  it  goes  down  with  nearly 
uniform  size.  A  depth  of  200  feet  has  been  reached,  and  drifts  have  been  run 
200  feet  on  the  vein.  The  average  yield  has  been  about  $12,  and  the  total  yield 
$400,000. 

There  is  a  12-stamp  mill  driven  by  water.  The  gold  is  caught  by  amalga- 
mation in  the  mortar  and  on  copper  aprons,  and  the  blanket  tailings  arc  worked 
in  Chile  mills. 

Seventy-six. — The  Seventy-six  Company  are  at  work  on  a  vein  or  branch 
vein,  varying  in  thickness  from  four  to  18  inches,  and  nearly  horizontal  for  a 
distance  of  150  feet  from  the  surface,  and  at  that  distance  it  turns  down.  The 
lode  is  supposed  to  be  the  Eureka,  or  a  branch  of  it.  The  assorted  rock  is  packed 
on  mules,  at  a  cost  of  $6  per  ton  from  the  mine  to  three  arrastras.  Nothing  is 
crushed  unless  it  will  yield  $40  per  ton.  The  average  value  of  the  rock  is 
probably  $18. 

Crescent. — The  Crescent  mine,  in  Indian  valley,  15  miles  from  Quincy,  and 
73  from  Owenvillo,  includes  claims  on  three  lodes  as  follows,  viz  : 


Name. 

Length. 

Course. 

Dip. 

Crescent 

3,000 
3, 200 
2, 200 

East  and  west .. . ....... 

North  35<2. 

Horseshoe 

Northwest  and  southeast 

Southwest  60°. 

Pet 

North  80°  east 

South  GO^ 

The  walls  are  of  feldspathic  granite,  according  to  Professor  Ashbumer,  who 
made  a  report  on  it,  and  the  quartz,  so  far  as  the  work  has  advanced,  is  a  reddish 
brown,  with  occasional  masses  of  a  bluish  white  color,  enclosing  undecoraposcd 
swlphiu'ets  of  iron  and  of  lead. 

The  Crescent  vein  varies  in  width  from  five  to  50  feet,  averages  about  15, 
and  appears  to  be  the  main  lode  of  the  cluster  on  which  this  mine  is  located. 
Six  pay  chimneys  have  been  found,  and  two  have  been  worked  on  this  vein. 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  160 

The  eastern  is  lOS  feet  lonir,  and  the  western  100  feet.  Botli  lia\'e  been  stopped 
out  to  a  depth  of  120  feet,  with  an  averaijo  width  of  five  feet  of  pay,  yieUling 
from  $13  to  $18  per  ton.  The  deepest  workings  on  tliis  vein  are  140  feet  from 
the  surface,  and  drifts  have  been  run  3G0  feet  hjug. 

The  average  wiiUh  of  the  Horseshoe  vein  is  about  14  feet,  but  the  walls  are 
not  well  delined.  The  <piartz  is  harder  than  in  the  Crescent,  and  the  ])ay  has 
varied  from  $7  to  $i2,  averaging  front  $15  to  $18.  There  are  two  pay  chimneys; 
the  western  120  feet  long  at  the  surface,  and  200  feet  h)ng,  200  feet  below  the 
surface,  and  the  western  100  feet  long  at  the  llrst  level,  and  125  feet  at  the  third. 
The  pay  chimneys  dip  a  little  to  the  east.  A  depth  of  280  feet  has  been  reached 
on  this  vein.  The  Pet  vein  has  a  pay  chimney  50  feet  long,  and  four  feet  thick, 
and  the  quartz  yields  $100  per  ton. 

The  Union  vein  runs  into  the  Horseshoe,  and  the  intersection  is  rich,  yielding 
$37  per  ton. 

The  yield  of  the  mine  from  November,  1862,  till  June  9, 18G7,  was  $607,213  59, 
obtained  from  40,000  tons,  showing  an  average  of  $16  68  per  ton. 

Dividends  have  been  paid  to  the  amount  of  $100,000,  and  $150,000  have  been 
spent  in  improvements. 

The  stock  of  ore  in  sight  is  estimated  at  14,000  tons,  to  average  $11  40  per 
ton,  and  20,000  to  average  $7  or  $8. 

There  is  a  32-stamp  mill  driven  by  an  engine  with  an  18-inch  cylinder,  with 
40  inches  of  stroke. 

The  stamps  weigh  810  pounds,  make  60  blows  per  minute,  and  fall  10  inches. 

The  gold  is  amalgamated  in  the  mortar,  and  on  copper-plate,  and  the  blanket 
sands  are  ground  in  a  "VVheeler  and  Randall  pan.  The  blankets  catch  one-seventh 
of  all  the  quai'tz  crushed,  and  the  blanket  sands  yield  one-tweKth  of  all  the  gold 
saved. 

There  is  a  hoisting  engine,  which  is  supplied  with  steam  from  the  mill  boiler. 

A  24-stamp  mill  was  built  in  1863,  but  was  sold  to  another  company.  The 
present  was  erected  in  1865.  Thirty-two  men  are  employed,  eight  at  the  mill, 
and  24  at  the  mine.  There  are  14  underground  miners,  who  get  $3  per  day, 
and  board  themselves;  five  underground  carmen,  who  get  $2  75  without  board, 
or  $50  per  month  with  board  ;  two  rock  breakers,  and  four  feeders,  $2  75  per 
day ;  one  amalgamator,  $2  75,  and  another,  (a  boy,)  $2  25  per  day ;  one  engineer, 
SlOO  per  month  ;  another,  $4  12  per  day  ;  another  $3  30  per  day,  without  board ; 
and  a  fourth,  $45  per  month,  with  board. 

WniTXET. — The  "Whitney  mine  is  on  the  Crescent  lode,  one  mile  southeast 
of  ttic  Crescent  mine.  The  com"se  there  is  west  15°  north,  and  the  dip  about  80° 
south. 

The  foot  wall  is  granite,  and  the  hanging  wall  slate.  The  vein  varies  in  width 
from  15  to  30  feet,  and  the  average  is  20  feet.  The  walls  are  smooth,  and  well 
defined  from  the  surface,  and  the  quartz  on  the  walls  is  in  places  polished  smooth. 

The  quartz  is  soft,  is  taken  out  without  blasting,  and  all  in  the  pay  chimneys 
is  crushed.  It  is  extracted  throuirh  a  tunnel  100  feet  long,  and  the  extraction 
and  transportation  to  the  mill  do  not  cost  more  than  75  cents  per  ton.  The  average 
yield  is  $12  per  ton,  and  the  total  yield  has  been  $68,000.  There  is  a  24-stamp 
mill,  which  began  work  in  December,  1866. 

The  gold  is  caught  by  amalgamation  in  the  mortar  and  on  the  copper  aprons, 
and  the  blanket  saids  are  ground  in  a  Wheeler  and  Randall  pan. 

GoLDEX  Gate.—  The  Golden  Gate  mine  at  Round  valley  is  on  a  vein  four 
feet  wide,  running  northeast  and  southwest,  and  cutting  across  the  slates.  A 
depth  of  60  feet  has  been  reached,  and  drifts  have  been  run  70  feet  in  \my  all 
the  way.  The  average  yield  has  been  $22.  There  is  an  eight-stamp  mill,  driven 
by  water.  It  began  to  run  about  the  1st  of  June  of  this  year,  before  which  time 
the  quartz  was  worked  in  a  custom  mill. 

Dixie  a^^d  Bullfrog. — In  Dixie  canon  there  are  three  custom  mills,  one 


170  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

of  eiglit,  one  of  six,  and  one  of  four  stamps.  All  were  erected  to  work  claims 
wliicli  did  not  pay. 

The  IjidllVoi^  mine  at  Rnsli  creek  is  on  a  vein  eight  feet  wide,  running  ea^t 
and  west.  A  depth  of  130  feet  has  been  reached,  and  drifts  have  been  run  200 
feet  on  the  lode.  The  quartz  yields  88  gross  and  $3  net.  The  mill  has  12  stamps, 
goes  by  steam,  and  was  built  in  1S65. 

LiGUT  AXD  Call  All  Ais". — Light's  mine,  in  Genesee  valley,  is  on  a  vein  two 
feet  and  a  half  wide,  running  east  and  vrest.  The  quartz  is  taken  out  of  an  open 
cut,  40  feet  long  and  30  feet  <k'ep,  and  tlie  yield  is  S18  per  ton.  The  mill  lias 
eight  stam];)s,  goes  by  water,  and  was  built  this  year. 

Callahan's  mine,  in  Indian  valley,  has  been  opened  to  a  depth  of  100  feet,  and 
to  the  same  length,  in  ]iay  all  the  way.  Some  of  the  rock  crushed  at  Custom 
mills  has  yielded  $12  50.' 

PREMIUM  AiS'D  SPAnKS. — Tlic  Premium  mine  has  bccn  opened  by  a  shaft  125 
feet  deep,  and  by  a  drift  of  50  feet.  Some  rich  specimens  have  been  obtained, 
and  rock  crushed  at  custom  mills  yielded  $19. 

The  Sparks  and  Halsted  mine  at  Granite  Basin  is  on  a  vein  eight  feet  wide. 
A  12-stamp  steam  mill  is  going  up. 

I]s'Di  AX  Valley. — The  Indian  Valley  mine  is  on  a  vein  six  feet  wide,  running 
east  and  west,  and  dipping  to  the  south.  A  depth  of  220  feet  has  been  reached, 
and  drifts  have  been  run  200  feet  on  the  vein.  The  rock  is  hard,  and  yields 
$18  per  ton.  There  are  two  mills ;  one  of  16  stamps,  driven  by  water,  and  another 
of  12  stamps,  driven  b\'  steam.  The  mills  have  been  running  since  1SG4,  and 
the  general  yield  per  week  has  been  $2,200. 

Greexville. — At  Greenville  the  Union  and  McClellan  Company  ai-e  working 
a  vein  two  feet  and  a  half  wide.  They  have  gone  down  190  feet,  and  run  160 
on  the  vein.  There  are  two  pay  chimneys,  each  about  30  feet  long,  dippiug  to 
the  west.  The  company  has  two  mills,  each  of  eight  stamps,  but  the  supply  of 
quartz  is  not  sufficient  to  keep  them  iiinning  more  than  half  the  time.  The 
companj^  are  building  a  mill  of  16  stamps  to  work  a  claim  on  the  Caledonian 
lode. 


SECTION    XIV. 

ALPINE    COUNTY. 

This  county,  situate  on  the  summit  and  eastern  slope  of  the  SieiTa  Nevada, 
and  on  spurs  making  out  from  the  latter,  is,  as  its  name  denotes,  nigged,  moun- 
tainous, and  truly  Alpine  in  its  external  features  and  situation.  The  SieiTa, 
along  its  western  border,  rises  to  an  elevation  of  nearly  10,000  feet.  Silver 
mountain,  a  short  range  running  north  and  south  across  its  centre,  is  nearly 
as  elevated.  Even  the  lowest  valleys  have  an  altitude  of  scarcely  less  than 
5,000  feet,  many  of  them  lying  much  liigher.  As  a  consequence  the  climate 
in  the  winter  is  rigorous,  the  snow  falling  early  and  lying  on  the  mountains, 
where  it  falls  to  a  great  depth,  until  midsummer.  Even  in  the  lowest  and 
most  sheltered  valleys  it  usually  falls  to  the  depth  of  several  inches,  lying  some- 
times for  two  or  three  months  in  the  winter.  The  weather  dming  the  summer, 
without  being  excessively  hot,  is  warm ;  that  of  the  later  spring  and  the  fall 
months  is  delightful. ''  Showers  are  more  frequent  here  during  the  dry  season  than 
west  of  the  Sierra,  or  in  the  State  of  Nevada,  lying  to  the  east.  OwingNto  this, 
vegetation  keeps  green  until  a  later  period  in  the  summer.  The  grass,  of  which 
there  is  a  good  deal,  aflbrds  by  its  succulence  excellent  pasturage.  There  is 
but  little  agricultural  land  in  the  county,  though  a  number  of  small  valleys  pro- 
duce line  crops  of  hay,  grain,  and  vegetables.     Almost  the  entire  region  is  cov- 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  171 

crod  with  heavy  forests  of  pine  and  fir,  from  which  immense  quantities  of  himber 
and  iirowood  are  made  every  season.     Five  million  feet  of  saw-h)o-8  and  C,000 
cords  of  wood  arc  Hoatcd  down   the  Carson  river  annually  for  the   use  of  the 
Comstock  mines.     On  tlio  Sierra  Nevada,  within  the  limits  of  this  county,  arc  a 
numlier  of  small  lakes  of  the  g'reatest  purity  and  coldness,  the  waters  of  which 
are  siiiiplied  by  the  melting  snttws.     Tliese  lakes  arc  the  sources  of  several  con- 
siderable streams,  the  Carsim  river,  running  north  into  Nevada,  and  the  Stanislaus 
and  ^lokelumne,  west  into  California,  heading  hero.     Besides  these  there  aro 
many  creeks,  tributaries  to  the  Carson,  whicli,  with  the  latter,  supply  a  very 
extensive  water  power  and  means  of  irrigation.     Alpine  contains  a  number  of 
small  towns,  of  whicli  Kongsburg,  the  county  seat,  jfonitor,  and  Marklcevillo 
are  the  principal.     Tlie  popiilation  of  the  county  is  about  2,000.     There  are 
three  quartz  mills  in  this  county,  carrying  2G  stamj)s,  and  costing  in  the  aggre- 
gate about  $100,000;   13  saw-mills,  carrying  19  saws,  and  having  a  capacity  to 
cut  112,000  feet  daily;  aggregate  cost  about  $100,000.     Considering  its  small 
population  and  rugged  surface,  this  county  is  well  sup])lied  with  good  wagon 
roads,  having  one  leading  across  the  mountains  connecting  the  principal  towns 
with  the  Big  Tree  road  running  to  Stockton,  and  several  others,  built  at  heavy 
expense ;  one  of  which  runs  to  Carson  valley,  there  imitlng  with  the  road  to 
Virginia  City,  and  also  with  that  leading  over  the   Sierra  to  Sacramento  via 
Placerville.     The  inhabitants  of  Alpine  have  displayed  much  enterprise  in  road 
building,  having,  for  their  means,  expended  more  money  and  labor  on  these 
improvements  than  any  other  conmnniity  in  the  State.     The  first  silver-bearing 
lodes  were  discovered  in  this  region  in  1861,  since  which  time  14  difi'ercnt  dis- 
tricts liave  been  organized  within  the  limits  of  the  count)',  in  some  of  which  a 
large  number  of  ledges  have  been  located  and  much  exploratory  work  done, 
while  in  others  the  reverse  is  the  case.     The  metalliferous  veins  hero  are  usually 
of  good  size,  many  of  them  very  large,  being  from  20  to  80  feet  thick  on  the 
surface,  and  occasionally  much  larger.     The  most  of  them,  however,  range  from 
6  to  10  feet  in  thickness,  running  in  a  generally  north  and  south  direction,  with 
a  trend  to  the  southeast  in  conformity  with  the  longitudinal  axis  of  the  SieiTa. 
The  vein-stone  consists  of  quartz  and  carbonate  of  lime.     The  country  rock  is 
composed  of  porphyry,  granite,  trap,  and  slate.     None  of  the  lodes  cany  rich 
ores  on  or  near  the  surface,  necessitating  deep  developinent  before  any  considera- 
ble bodies  of  a  suiiiciently  high  grade  for  milling  can  be  obtained ;  a  circum- 
stance that  has  tended  greatly  to  retard  the  advancement  of  the  mining  interest 
in  this  county,  capitalists  overlooking  the  masterly  character  of  the  lodes  and 
the  unrivalled  advantages  for  the  cheap  reduction  of  the  ores  enjoyed  here,  and 
investing  in  mines  much  less  favorably  situated  simply  because  they  canled 
small  quantities  of  rich  ore  in  their  upper  portions.     Left  thus  without  aid,  the 
miners  of  this  county  have  not  been  able,  with  their  limited  means,  to  develop 
more  than  a  few  of  their  claims  to  a  productive  point,  although  a  number  of 
years  have  elapsed  since  operations  were  commenced  here.     Another  evil  has 
been  the  want  of   concentration  of   labor,  their  efforts  having  been  spent  in 
attempts  at  operating  too  great  a  nimiber  of  lodes,  therein^  defeating  the  thor- 
ough development  of  any.     But  besides  these  superficial  and  ineflcctual  labors, 
several  works  looking  to  deep  exploration  have  been  planned,  some  of  which, 
though  involving  heavy  expenditures  of  labor  and  money,  have  been  carried 
almost  to  completion.     The  aggregate  amount  of  tunnelling  done  in  the  county 
is  very  large,  many  of  these  works  being  from  500  to  1,000  feet  long.     Owing 
to  the  precipitous  character  of  the  mountains  in  which  most  of  the  lodes  are 
situated,  the  method  of  their  exploration  by  tunnels  has  been  generally  adopted. 
Then-  declivities  in  many  places  aro  so  steep  that  a  depth  beneath  the  crop- 
pings  is  attained  equal  to  the  length  of  the  tunnel  when  it  reaches  the  ledge. 
This  is  frequently  the  case  in  the  Silver  Mountain  district,  where  a  nund)cr  of 
tunnels,  some  of  them  well  advanced,  are  expected  to  tap  the  lodes  for  which 


172  RESOURCES     OF    STATES    AXD    TERRITORIES 

they  are  being  driven  at  depths  varying  from  1,000  to  1,200  feet,  which  will  also 
be  about  their  horizontal  length.  The  mountains  near  Konigsburg,  in  which  a 
great  many  lodes  are  situated,  vary  in  height  from  2,000  to  3,000  feet.  The  main 
ranges  a  little  further  back  arc  much  higher.  The  ores  of  this  county  are 
very  diversified,  carrying,  besides  the  precious  metals,  copper,  lead,  antimony, 
arsenic,  &c.,  a  combination  that  renders  them  refractory  and  costly  of  reduction: 
roasting  and  careful  amalgamation,  and,  in  some  cases,  smelting,  are  processes 
necessary  to  success.  The  croppings  generally  show  by  assa}'  fi'ee  gold,  together 
with  gold  and  silver  in  combination  with  iron  pyrites,  which  latter  gives  place  to 
copper  as  depth  is  attained.  Some  veins  contain  so  large  a  percentage  of  this  metal 
as  to  justly  bring  their  contents  under  the  class  of  argentiferous  copper  ores, 
which  can  be  successfully  treated  only  by  smelting,  for  which  there  exist  here 
the  greatest  facilities,  wood  being  nearly  everywhere  abundant.  Much  of  this  ore, 
it  is  believed,  contains  enough  of  copper  to  defray  the  entire  cost  of  mining  an4 
reduction.  After  much  experimenting  with  a  view  to  determining  the  best  mode 
for  treating  the  ores  of  this  county',  this  end  is  thought  to  have  been  recently 
attained,  and  the  product  of  bullion,  though  still  small,  is  steady  and  constantly 
increasiiig,  amounting  at  the  present  to  between  §7,000  and  $8,000  monthly. 
From  the  energy  displayed  in  efforts  to  overcome  the  rebellious  elements  pres- 
ent in  these  ores,  and  to  fuilher  the  development  of  the  mines,  there  is  reason 
for  believing  that  this  amount  will  be  increased  the  coming  year.  The  most  efficient 
plan,  and  that  at  present  adopted,  fur  the  management  of  these  ores  is,  after  kiln- 
diying  and  crushing,  to  roast  and  then  amalgamate  them  b}-  the  Freiburg  baixel  pro- 
cess. The  following  prices  paid  b}'  mill  companies  for  ore  indicates  its  value  for  pur- 
poses of  reduction  :  Kustel  &  Uznay  contracted  with  the  Morning  Star  Company 
last  year  to  pay  them  $17  50  for  10,000  tons  of  ore  from  their  mine  at  Mogul,  the 
purchasers  extracting  the  ore  at  their  own  cost.  The  Washington  Mill  Company 
have  contracted  to  pa}'  $100  per  ton  for  100  tons  of  first-class  ore  to  be  dehvcred 
from  the  IXL  mine,  in  the  Silver  Mountain  district.  The  ores  from  the  Tarshish 
mine,  near  the  town  of  Monitor,  are  found  to  j-ield,  with  careful  treatment,  over  $200 
per  ton;  and  it  is  thought  there  are  other  lodes  here  the  ores  from  which,  by  a 
careful  selection,  will  turn  out  nearly  as  well.  The  Tarshish  lode  is  of  large 
dimensions,  the  tunnel  now  in  course  of  excavation  having  penetrated  it  90  feet 
without  reaching  the  back  wall.  The  ores,  a  large  portion  of  which  are  of  high 
grade,  lie  in  bunches  or  chimneys,  and,  if  developed  to  its  fullest  capacity,  there 
is  no  doubt  but  this  mine  could  be  made  to  yield  ore  enough  to  keep  a  large- 
sized  mill  in  steady  supply.  There  is  at  present  much  activity  in  several 
mining  districts  in  this  county,  work  having  been  resumed  upon  a  number 
of  claims  for  some  time  neglected,  and  being  pushed  with  increased  energy 
upon  others ;  and  there  can  be  no  question  but  the  business  of  mining  will  make 
greater  progress  in  future  than  it  has  heretofore  done  iu  this  region.  In  the 
matter  of  wood  and  water  there  is  not  a  county  in  the  State  better  situated  than 
Alpine ;  the  facilities  for  the  cheap  exploitation  of  the  mineral  lodes  are  great ; 
while  freights,  owing  to  its  proximity  to  the  principal  points  of  supply,  are 
much  lower  than  in  almost  any  other  mining  district  east  of  the  Sien-a.  The 
water  power  iu  this  county  is  ample  for  the  propulsion  of  several  thousand  stamps, 
Avhile|timber,  both  for  fuel  and  lumber,  is  present  in  inexhaustible  supply^ 


WEST    OF    THE   EOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  173 

SECTION    XV. 

LASSEN    COUNTY. 

This  county,  crectctl  from  Pluiaas  in  1864,  lies  upon  and  to  tlic  east  of  the 
Siena  Nevada  mountains.  It  is  named  after  Peter  Lassen,  one  of  the  pioneer 
settlers  of  northeastern  California,  who  was  killed  by  the  Indians  in  1S5'J  while 
exploring  the  northwestern  portions  of  Nevada  for  silver  mines,  then  supposed 
to  exist  in  that  region.  The  county  contains  but  a  small  po[)ulation — only  about 
1,500.  It  was  organized  because  of  the  isolated  situation  uf  the  inhabitants, 
si'})arated  by  the  Sierra  from  the  county  seat  of  Plumas.  The  votes  polled  in 
ISGl  numbered  554;  the  value  of  real  and  personal  property  now  in  the  county 
is  estimated  at  about  $800,000 — a  large  amount,  considering  the  limited  num- 
ber of  people  it  contains.  The  westei-n  portion  of  the  coimty  is  covered  l)y  the 
Sierra  Nevada ;  the  remainder  consists  of  rugged  and  barren  hills,  sage  i)lains, 
and  alkali  flats,  with  a  small  extent  of  rich  valley  lands.  The  Sierra  is  heavily 
timbered  quite  to  its  base.  Heading  in  these  mountains  are  a  number  of  fine 
streams,  of  which  Susan  river,  Willow,  and  Elision  creeks  are  the  principal.  They 
afford  extensive  propulsive  power  and  water  for  irrigation,  to  both  which  uses  they 
are  largely  applied.  These  streams  run  into  Honey  lake,  a  shallow  body  of  water 
lying  on  the  eastern  border  of  the  county,  and  which,  though  it  covered  a  large  area 
s<jme  years  since,  is  now  nearly  dried  up.  It  has  no  outlet,  and  its  water,  or  what 
little  is  left,  is  slightly  alkaline  to  the  taste.  Along  its  shores  are  one  or  two  spots 
of  tule  marsh ;  the  rest  is  high  and  barren.  Nearly  all  the  valuable  land  in  the 
county  lies  in  Honey  Lake  valley,  a  fertile  and  well-watered  tract  of  some  50,000 
or  60,000  acres,  lying  between  the  base  of  the  Sierra  and  the  lake.  It  is  all 
taken  up  and  enclosed,  the  greater  part  being  under  cultivation  or  appropiiated 
to  hay-making  and  pasturage.  Much  stock  is  kept  here,  besides  large  quantities 
of  grain  of  every  description  raised  annually.  Wheat,  barley,  rye,  and  corn  grew 
luxuriantly,  and,  with  iirigation,  yield  largely.  Vegetables  thrive  and  most  kinds 
of  fruits  mature  without  difficulty.  Cattle  here  require  neither  stabling  nor  fodder 
during  the  winter;  even  work  animals  keep  in  g(jod  condition  feeding  on  the  rich 
succulent  grasses  of  the  valley.  Owing  to  the  abundance  of  good  timber  close 
at  hand,  the  most  of  the  fencing  is  made  of  posts  and  boards,  and  the  houses  of 
the  settlers  for  the  same  reason  are  large  and  substantial.  Good  lumber  can 
be  obtained  at  the  mills  here  at  about  $20  per  thousand.  In  Long  valley,  a 
small  portion  of  which  is  in  this  county,  there  is  also  a  little  good  agricultural  and 
pasture  land.  Honey  Lake  valley  received  its  name  from  the  quantity  of  honey 
dew,  a  sweet  and  viscid  substance  precipitated  from  the  atmosphere  during  the 
spring  and  early  summer  months.  The  climate  in  this  valley  is  extremely  mild 
and  agreeable ;  the  heat  of  the  sunniier  is  moderate,  and  but  little  snow  falls 
during  the  winter.  There  is  a  group  of  hot  springs  near  the  head  of  the  valley, 
some  of  which  are  very  large,  and  one  so  deep  that  its  bottom  has  never  been 
reached  by  sounding.  It  boils  with  such  fur}'  that  the  water  leaps  several 
feet  high.  The  others  are  not  so  hot,  though  all  are  injpregnated  with  iron, 
alum,  soda,  or  other  mineral  substances.  The  only  town  of  any  size  in  the 
county  is  Susan ville,  the  county  seat,  in  which  there  is  a  flourishing  school,  a 
church,  and  many  large  and  well-built  houses.  The  county  contains  seven  saw- 
mills, running  11  saws  and  capable  of  cutting  50,000  feet  of  lumber  daily. 
They  are  propelled  by  water,  and  cost  in  the  aggregate  over  $50,000.  There 
are  alto  two  flour  mills,  having  three  run  of  stone  and  capacity  for  grinding  90 
baiTcls  of  flour  daily.  They  are  driven  by  water  and  cost  about  $12,000. 
There  are  20  miles  of  water  ditches,  btiilt  at  a  cost  of  $25,000,  and  several  wagou 
roads  within  the  limits  of  the  county,  leading  over  the  Sierra  into  California. 
Lassen  contains  no  quartz  mills,  though  there  are  numerous  ore-bearing  veins  of 
both  the  useful  and  the  precious  metals  in  the  county.     The  most  of  these  are 


174  RESOUKCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

found  in  tlie  mountains  adjacent  to  and  west  of  Honey  Lake  valley,  where  placer 
dig-gings  and  auriferous  quartz  v/ere  discovered  in  1862,  at  which  time  the  fomier 
were  quite  extensively  worked  and  paid  fair  wages.  Some  of  these  quartz  veins 
also  carry  silver,  and  various  worthing  tests  made  on  a  saiall  scale  tend  to  show 
that  those  veins  may  yet  be  profitably  worked  on  a  largo  scale,  as  the  ores  can 
be  cheaply  reduced,  owing  to  an  abundance  of  wood  and  water  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  mines. 


SECTION    lYI. 

STANISLAUS,  FRESNO,  TULARE,  MERCEDE,  AND  SAN  JOAQUIN  COUNTIES. 

Stanislaus  has  a  sectional  area  of  1,228  square  miles,  consisting  chiefly  of 
agricultural  lands.  Population  in  1860,  2,245;  estimated  in  1866,  3,460; 
assessed  valuation  of  real  and  personal  property  in  1866,  81,026,216.* 

The  principal  towns  are  Knight's  Feny,  the  county  seat,  on  the  Stanislaus 
river,  where  it  debouches  on  the  main  San  Joaquin  valley,  and  Lagi'ange.  The 
business  of  the  county  is  mostly  centred  in  these  towns.  At  Knight's  Feny 
there  are  valuable  quarries  of  sandstone.  The  freighting  business  of  this  county 
amounts  to  4,444i^  tons.t 

Fresno. — This  county,  to  the  south  of  Mariposa  and  Merced,  in  sectional 
area  is  one  of  the  largest  counties  in  the  State,  reaching  from  the  Coast  range  to 
the  eastern  boundaries  of  the  State,  containing  9,240  square  miles ;  of  this  about 
444,800  acres  are  agricultural  lands  of  superior  quality.  The  population  of 
Fresno  in  1860  was  4,605;  estimated  in  1866,  1,680;  assessed  valuation, 
$811,716,  in  1865;  in  1866,  $826,000. 

The  copper  mines  in  the  Hamilton  district,  near  the  Chowchilla  river,  are  no 
doubt  extensive.  Tlie  lode  is  clearly  defined  for  ten  miles  with  croppings  of 
great  richness.  The  shipments  of  copper  from  this  district  will,  it  is  believed, 
in  time  rival  that  from  Copperopolis.  At  present  the  shipments  are  light,  as  the 
cost  of  transportation  to  San  Francisco  is  880  per  ton,  which  makes  copper 
mining  in  this  county  unprofitable  at  present.  With  facilities  for  transportation 
by  way  of  Knight's  Ferry,  and  thence  by  the  proposed  Stockton  and  Copper- 
opolis railroad  to  Stockton,  copper  ores  will  eventually  bear  shipment. 

U'he  down  freights  from  this  county,  principally  from  the  Chowchilla  mines, 
were,  in  1865,  1,800  tons.  Two  other  mines  shipped  by  way  of  the  San  Joaquin 
120  tons  per  month,  but  there  is  little  doing  now,  owing  to  the  deprcx;iation  in 
the  business  of  copper  mining.  The  up  freights  to  Fort  Miller  are  875  tons  per 
annum ;  the  total  freights  to  and  from  this  county  probably  amount  to  2,675  tons. 

Tulare. — The  county  of  Tulare,  to  the  soutli  of  Fresno,  contained  in  1860 
a  population  of  4,638;  estimated  in  1866,  4,890;  an  assessed  valuation  in  1865 
of  81,306,380;  in  1866,  81,299,379;  agricultural  products  for  1865,  8616,890; 
a  sectional  area  of  7,181  square  miles,  of  which  about  200,604  acres  are  good 
agricultural  lands,  the  rest  mountain  and  tule  lands.  There  are  gold  veins  in 
this  county  which  are  now  being  developed,  and  which  will  increase  the  present 
freights  to  a  large  amount.  The  freights  for  1865  were  as  follows:  Up  freights, 
2,750  tons;  down  freights,  409  tons;  total,  3,159  tons. 

There  is  no  outlet  for  the  northern  portion. 

ilERCEDE. — West  of  Mariposa  county  lies  Mercede,  mostly  an  agricnltural 
county,  the  central  and  western  portion  of  which  has,  to  some  extent,  an  outlet 
on  the  San  Joaquin  river.  Sectional  area,  1,384  square  miles;  population  in 
1860,  1,141;  estimated  in  1860,  1,980;  real  and  personal  property,  8816,318; 

*  Pacific  Coast  Directory.  t  W.  C.  Watson's  report. 


.^l' 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS  175 

principal  sliipping  points  for  up  freight,  Merced  I^'alls  and  HncHingsvillo,  si>c 
miles  below.  Here,  as  well  as  at  Iviiight's  Ferry  and  l^an'range,  on  tlio  I'lio- 
I'.nune,  is  a  large  amount  of  water  power,  capable  of  being  used  at  a  little  exp  'nse, 
and  wliicli  will  at  no  distant  day  be  turned  to  good  account.  Freighting  bus'.nese 
of  this  comity,  5G2  tons.* 

San  Joaquin. — The  sectional  area  of  this  county  is  1,452  square  niik's, 
(029.280  acres,)  about  one-thivd  of  which  is  agricultural,  tlio  rest  foot-hills 
and  tale  lands.t  Tlie  agricultnral  products  in  18G4  atnountcd  to  84,445,058; 
avssessed  valuation  in  18G5,  $14,986,615;  population  in  18G0,  8,434;  estimated 
population  in  1866,  17,140;  real  and  personal  property  in  1866,  $5,275, 016. | 


SECTION  XVII. 

INYO    COUNTY. 

This  county  was  erected  in  1866.  The  territory  was  taken  from  Tulare  and 
Mono  counties,  and  lies  on  the  border  of  the  Great  Mohave  Desert,  east  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada  range  of  mountains.  With  the  exception  of  a  considerable  strip  of  arable 
land  along  Owen's  river,  and  some  fertile  spots  at  the  entrance  of  the  ravines 
that  mahe  up  into  the  SieiTa,  the  country  is  arid  and  baiTcn.  ^ Except  the 
portion  lying  on  the  SieiTa,  and  some  scattered  gi'oves  of  pifion  on  the  range 
east  of  Owen's  valley  the  country  is  also  destitute  of  timber.  •''The  only  water, 
save  a  few  small  springs,  consists  of  that  flowing  through  Owen's  river  and  the 
streams  that,  falling  from  the  mountains  to  the  west,  feed  it  or  run  into  the  lake 
that  receives  its  waters.  '^Owen's  valley,  over  a  hundred  miles  long  in  its  whole 
extent,  and  from  10  to  15  wide,  lies  along  the  western  border  of  the  county, 
having  the  Sierra  Nevada  moimtains  on  the  west  and  the  Monachd  c^j.-un  on  the 
cast.  These  mountains  cover  three-fourths  of  its  area  and  give  to  .the  county  a 
rugged  and  diversified  aspect.  The  tillable  land  along  the  river  is  not  more 
than  a  mile  and  a  half  wide,  but  as  it  reaches  the  entire  length  of  the  valley 
it  amounts  in  the  aggregate  to  60,000  or  70,000  acres,  the  most  of  it  very 
fertile  and  capable,  with  irrigation,  of  gi'owing  every  kind  of  fruit,  grain,  and 
vegetables  in  the  greatest  luxm-iance.  This  strip  of  land  is  covered  in  its  natural 
state  with  a  coarse,  wiry  grass,  not  fit  for  making  first  quality  of  hay,  though  the 
cultivated  grasses  could  easily  be  domesticated  here.  They  are  found  to  grow 
readily  when  planted  after  the  manner  of  grain.  -The  rest  of  the  valley,  like 
the  sun-ounding  country,  is  nothing  but  a  sage  baiTcn,  producing,  besides  the 
artemesia,  only  a  little  bunch  grass,  with  a  few  shrubs  almost  as  worthless  as  the 
sage  itself.  The  river,  rumiing  through  the  middle  of  the  valley,  is  deep,  nar- 
row, and  crooked,  and  has  a  swift  current,  which,  with  its  generally  marshy  banks, 
renders  fording  difficult.  In  the  sunnner,  during  the  melting  of  the  snow  on  the 
moimtains,  it  overflows  its  banks  in  many  places,  particularly  the  tule  lands,  of 
which  there  are  good  deal  along  its  borders.  The  mountain  streams,  after  flowing 
out  into  the  valley  a  short  distance,  spread  out  over  the  surface,  iirigating  it  and 
jiroducing  large  patches  of  clover.  These  spots  were  the  favorite  abodes  of  the 
Indians,  who  planted  a  variety  of  roots,  grasses,  and  other  vegetable  comestil)les, 
which  they  irrigated,  conveying  the  water  through  small  ditches  and  channels 
fonned  with  mud,  often  quite  a  distance.  In  the  possession  of  the  whites  they 
will  soon  be  converted  into  luxuriant  gardens,  orchards,  and  grain  fields.  Along 
Owen's  valh^y  there  are  already  a  large  number  of  fine,  well  stocked,  and  culti- 
vated fanns,  many  thousand  bushels  of  grain  having  been  raised  there,  besides 
butter  and  cheese  made  for  several  yeare  past.     Five  hundred  thousand  pounds 

*  Watson's  report.  t  W.  C.  Watson.  t  Pacific  Coast  Directory. 


176  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

of  £Tvain  were  raised  last  year,  and  still  larger  quantities  this.  These  farms  witK 
proper  culture  produce  as  abundantly  as  the  richest  valley  lands  elsewhere  in  the 
State,  the  yield  of  wheat  and  barley  being  often  at  the  rate  of  40  and  50  bushels  to 
the  acre.  '  Cattle  keep  fat  here  running  in  the  pastures  the  year  round,  no  stabling 
or  fodder  being  required.  The  population  of  the  county,  for  several  years  greatly 
diminished  on  account  of  Indian  difficulties,  is  now  about  2,000,  having  increased 
largely  within  the  past  six  or  eight  months  on  account  of  the  very  flattering 
prospects  of  the  mines.  The  assessal)lc  property  is  estimated  at  three-quarters 
of  a  million  dollars,  and  there  is  no  doubt  but  both  the  population  and  wealth 
of  the  county  will  be  largely  augmented  hereafter.  A  number  of  tovais  have 
been  laid  out,  some  in  the  vicinit}^  of  the  mines  and  others  in  Owen's  valley, 
but  none  of  them  have  yet  attained  any  great  size.  Bend  City,  San  Carlos, 
and  Independence  are  in  the  valley,  Kearsarge  City  being  10  miles  west  of 
Independence  and  near  the  famous  mines  of  that  name.  IXake  City,  laid  out  in 
1862,  is  at  the  south  end  of  Owen's  Big  Lake.  It  contained  quite  a  population 
at  one  time,  but  is  noAvnearh^  deserted.  Bend  City  and  San  Carlos  also  contain 
fewer  inhabitants  than  they  did  several  years  since.  The  late  accessions  to  the 
population  arc  mostly  in  the  mining  districts.  Independence,  the  county  seat, 
is  a  growing  and  thrifty  town,  with  a  school  and  other  CAadences  of  progress. 
Fort  Independence,  the  military  post  near  by,  adds  much  to  the  business  of  the 
place,  there  being  at  all  times  several  companies  of  troops  stationed  here.  The 
fort  is  a  well-built,  comfortable  structure,  with  well-improved  grounds  and  out- 
buildings al)uut  it.  Mount  Whitney,  the  highest  peak  in  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and 
claimed  to  be  the  most  elevated  land  in  the  United  States,  is  over  15,000  feet 
high,  and  lies  within  the  limits  of  Inyo  county.  There  are  several  other  peaks 
in  the  neighborhood  ranging  from  10,000  to  14,000  in  height.  Snow  lies  on 
some  of  these  peaks  all  summer.  The  whole  range  is  covered  nearly  to  its 
base  during  the  winter  season,  though  but  little  snow  lies  in  the  valley  during 
the  coldest  weather.  The  summers  here  arc  hot,  the  thermometer  standing  much 
of  the  time  at  100°  in  the  shade,  but  throughout  the  rest  of  the  year  the 
weather  is  mild  and  pleasant.  But  little  rain  or  snow  falls,  except  on  the 
mountains,  rendering  the  county  extremely  arid  and  making  irrigation  necessary 
for  the  growth  of  the  crops.  For  introducing  water  upon  the  land  many  small 
ditches  have  been  dug,  also  some  of  larger  dimensions :  one,  the  San  Carlos, 
taking  water  from  Owen's  river,  is  15  miles  long  and  cost  $30,000.  There 
are  two  saw-mills  and  nine  quartz  mills  in  the  county.  The  former  are  driven 
by  water,  are  capable  of  cutting  about  10,000  feet  of  lumber  daily,  and  cost 
$7,000.  Seven  of  the  quartz  mills  are  driven  by  steam  and  two  by  water 
power.  The  whole  carry  about  100  stamps  and  cost  nearly  $400,000.  Some 
of  these  mills  were  erected  several  years  ago,  at  a  time  when  the  proper  mode  of 
treating  tlie  ores  in  this  region  were  but  ill  understood,  and  as  a  consequence 
proved  failures.  ]\Iost  of  them  gave  up  after  a  few  ineffectual  efforts,  and  have 
remained  idle  ever  since.  Those  put  up  more  recently  are  supplied  with  the  neces- 
sary appliances  for  the  successful  management  of  the  ores,  and  have  mostly  been 
operated  with  satisfactory  results.  Besides  these  mills  there  are  about  20  aiTas- 
tras  running  in  the  county.  One  flour  mill  ha^  lately  been  built  in  the  valley, 
and  the  grain  crop  being  large,  will  no  doubt  do  a  prosperous  business.  This 
county  is  reached  from  California  by  several  good  roads;  one  from  Los  Angeles, 
which  entering  Owen's  valley  from  the  south,  is  unimpeded  by  snow  at  all  sea- 
sons. With  the  exception  of  a  few  miles  of  desert  it  is  a  good  road,  nearly 
level,  and  the  one  over  which  most  of  tlie  freight  has  heretofore  been  taken  in. 
Another  coming  in  from  the  State  of  Nevada  enters  this  valley  at  its  northern 
cxtrcnnity,  and,  though  most  employed  for  transporting  goods  intended  for  the 
northern  parts  of  the  county,  is  not  passable  for  teams  on  account  of  snow  duiing 
the  winter.  The  other  road,  via  Walker's  Pass,  enters  the  valley  centrally,  and 
though  never  seriously  obstructed  by  snow,  is  not  nuich  used  by  teams  on  account 


nJ 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  177 

of  its  slcopness  in  ])laoos  niul  tlio  q-roat  distance  c^ootls  liavo  to  be  lianled  on  tins 
ronte.  VAg\\i  or  10  diHerent  niininii*  distriets  liavo  lirst  and  last  l)ccn  eroctvnl 
"within  tlie  liiniis  of  this  coinUy,  in  all  of  which  there  are  many  metalliferous  lodes 
of  value,  thuug-h  workinj^  tests,  owing  to  the  extremely  rehellions  character  of 
the  ores,  have  not  as  yet  proved  wholly  satisfactory.  The  ores  hero  consist 
mostly  of  ivrfjentiferousi^-alena,  and  can  he  successlully  reduced  only  1)y  !=moltin 
;i  method  now  generally  adopted  in  most  of  the  districts.  The  nn'nos  arc  sit 
nateil  in  the  two  main  ranges  of  njomitains  nmning  in  a  northerly  and  sourli- 
erly  course  across  the  county,  tkc  SieiTa  on  the  west,  and  the  ^lonachi  or  Coso 
range  on  the  east.  In  the  latter  is  located  the  Lone  Pine  district,  abounding 
with  veins  varying  in  thickness  from  ono  to  40  feet,  nearly  all  carrying  a  good 
grade  of  ore,  much  of  if  yielding,  by  the  rude  smelting  process  now  employed, 
IViim  $50  to  $.100  per  ton.  At  present  only  the  richest  ores  are  worked  and  a 
large  percentage  of  the  metal  is  lost,  calling  for  more  economical  and  eflcctnal 
modes  of  treatment.  That  these  will  soon  be  supplied  seems  probable,  as  the 
attention  of  scientific  miners  and  capitalists  is  now  being  directed  to  that  rpiarter. 
The  ores  here  are  to  be  had  in  great  quantity,  and  as  population  is  flowing  into 
the  district,  supplying  an  abundance  of  available  labor,  there  is  no  doubt  but 
the  product  of  bullion  will  be  large  within  a  few  years.  In  the  other  districts, 
except  Kearsarge,  and  one  or  two  others,  there  is  but  little  work  being  done, 
though,  as  stated,  they  all  contain  valuable  gold,  silver,  and  copper-l)caring 
lodes.  The  Kearsarge  district  is  situate  on  the  eastern  declivity  of  the  Sierra, 
here  very  steep,  and  at  a  point  about  12  miles  west  from  Fort  Independence. 
The  lodes  here,  which  are  from  two  to  five  feet  thick,  carry  a  fair  perccntago 
of  silver,  which  is  their  predominating  metal.  The  lode  of  the  Kearsarge 
Company,  the  most  thoroughly  explored,  contains  ore  of  good  average  grade. 
This  company,  after  erecting  a  ]  0-stamp  mill,  met  "with  difficulty  in  saving  the 
metal  known  to  exist  in  tltcir  ore;  hence  thej'  have  been  obliged  to  delay  running 
their  mill  nntil  by  varied  experimenting  they  have  determined  the  best  method 
for  its  treatment.  It  is  confidently  expected  that  liberal  returns  will  be  secured, 
as  there  can  be  no  question  as  to  the  richness  of  the  ore.  A  tunnel  109  feet  in 
length  has  been  ran  to  the  ledge  of  this  company,  opening  it  to  a  depth  of  180 
feet  beneath  the  croppings,  the  s.'de  of  the  mountain  here  approaching  so  near  the 
perpendicular.  Other  companies  are  at  work  near  the  Kearsarge  opening  their 
claims,  all  of  which  afford  encouraging  prospects,  and  as  there  are  here  wood  and 
"water  in  abundance  this  may  in  time  become  a  prosperous  and  productive  dis- 
trict. In  addition  to  gold  and  silver,  this  county  cont-ains  maiiy  other  metals 
and  minerals,  such  as  iron,  copper,  sulphur,  and  salt,  the  latter  existing  about  a 
small  lake  in  Owen's  valley,  in  such  quantities  that  it  can  always  bo  procm'ed. 
there  at  a  merelv  nominal  cost 


SECTION  XVIII. 

MONO  COUNTY. 

This  county,  like  Lassen  and  Alpine,  lies  upon  and  to  the  cast  of  the  Sicira 
Nevada.  It  is  very  elevated,  and  constitutes  the  water-shed  between  the  basin  of 
Carson  and  of  Owen's  rivers,  both  of  "which  streams,  though  running  in  o])]iosite 
directions,  liave  their  sources  in  this  coimty.  As  a  consequence,  the  climate  is 
rigorous,  snow  falling  in  the  winter  to  a  great  depth,  even  in  the  \alleys,  and  ice 
sometimes  forming  at  night  in  the  summer.  There  is  a  narrow  l)elt  of  alluvial 
land  along  several  of  the  creeks  falling  from  the  Sierra  into  Mono  lakt>,  and  a 
few  thoustmd  acres  at  the  Big  Meadows  on  Walker  river,  with  some  small  patches 
elsewhere  in  the  county ;  yet  the  amount  of  arable  land  it  contains  is  small. 

12 


178  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

Some  farming  is  done  at  caeli  of  these  places.  The  crops  planted  arc  mostly 
potatoes  and  other  vegetables,  which,  with  careful  culture  and  uTigation,  gen- 
erally mature  and  yield  well.  A  large  amount  of  hay  is  cut  every  jeav  at  the 
Big  Meadows.  Aurora  and  the  most  of  the  mining  camps  in  the  county  get  a 
^ood  shai'e  of  their  supply  there. 

•  '  Mono  eontams  about  1,000  inhabitants,  scarcely  as  many  as  it  did  six  or  seven 
years  ag<'.  when  the  placer  mines  gave  employment  to  a  lai'ge  number  of  men. 
These  minr>^,  discovered  in  1857,  were  worked  for  four  or  five  years  thereafter 
with  much  piofit  to  such  as  held  the  better  class  of  claims,  the  daily  earnings 
varying  from  $5  to  $20  to  the  hand.  The  worldng  seasons,  however,  were 
somewhat  contracted,  and  the  digging  in  many  place!  deep,  while  the  cost  of 
living  was  high,  whereby  the  net  yearly  savings  were  reduced  to  moderate 
rates.  The  mines  lay  in  allu\num  washed  from  the  SiciTa  and  lodged  in  ;i  field 
of  enormous  _gi-anite  Ixnilders,  their  area  finally  proving  to  be  of  no  gre.':  extent, 
which,  after  the  summer  of  1861,  led  to  their  gradual  abandonment.  A  town 
named  Jlonoville  grew  up  at  these  diggings,  which  b}'  the  census  of  1860  con- 
tained 900  inhabitants,  the  most  of  whom  on  the  discovery  of  the  silver  lodes  a''. 
Ainora,  that  year,  removed  to  that  place,  to  which  also  m.ost  of  the  buildings  at 
Monoville  were  afterwards  transferred.  For  several  years  after  some  placer 
mining  was  still  carried  on,  but  at  present  there  is  scarcely  anything  being  done 
at  these  diggings.  There  are,  however,  near  them  a  number  of  small  quartz  lodes 
containing  free  gold.  Some  of  these  were  worked  in  1860,  by  means  of  aiTastras, 
driven  by  water,  and  for  a  time  good  results  were  obtained  ;  but  the  pay  streak 
in  these  lodes  was  very  narrow,  rendering  it  expensive  to  get  out  sufficient  ore  to 
keep  the  arrastras  running,  which  led  to  a  final  cessation  of  work  upon  them. 
With  mo]-e  thorough  development  it  is  thought  these  veins  could  still  be  worked 
with  remunerative  results.  There  is  water  at  hand  for  driving  a  considerable 
number  of  stamps.  For  supplying  water  to  the  placers  a  ditch  20  miles  long 
was  built  in  1860,  at  an  expense  of  $7i),000,  which  work  might  still  bo  made 
available  as  a  power  for  driving  machinery. 

ilonu  lake,  the  })rincipal  body  of  water  in  this  comity,  having  been  elsewhere 
described,  it  only  remains  here  to  speak  of  the  numerous  streams  falling  from  the 
Sien-a,  some  flowing  into  the  lake,  and  others  uniting  in  the  Big  Meadows  and 
forming  the  east  fork  of  Wallier  river.  ]\Iany  of  them  are  large,  and  by  their 
volume  and  fall  create  an  hnmense  water-power,  a  portion  of  which,  as  they  run 
throuaii  the  finest  of  timber  lands,  has  been  a.pplied  to  the  propidsion  of  machin- 
ery. "]\Iono  contains  a  great  extent  of  pine  and  spruce  forests,  ranging  along  the 
Eastern  slope  and  the  foQt-hills  oi'  the  Sierra.  Those  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Big 
Meadows  are  the  most  valuable.  The  trees  here,  though  not  extremely  large, 
are  straight  and  well  formed."^  There  are  eight  saw-mills. in  the  county,  having 
an  average  capacity  to  cut  5,000  feet  of  lumber  daily.  They  are  mcv'^tly  ddven 
by  steam,  and  cost  from  $2,000  to  810,000  each,  or  an  aggregate  of  $35,000. 
A  large  quantity  of  lumber  is  made  here  every  year,  which  iinds  a  market  at 
Aurora  and  in  "tlio  adjacent  mining  districts.)  There  are  three  quartz  mills  in 
the  county,  two  in  the  Bodie  district  driven  by  steam,  and  one  at  Hot  Springs 
driven  by'water.  The  former  carry,  the  one  16,  and  the  other  12  stam]-»s,  and 
the  latter  four.     I'he  entire  cost  of  these  mills  has  been  about  $200,000. 

The  only  town  of  any  si/.e  in  Mono  is  15ridgeport,the  county  seat.  It  is  situate 
at  the  Biij'Meadows  on  the  east  fork  of  Walker  river,  and  is  surrounded  with 
line  ao'ricultural  and  hay  lands,  with  a  stretch  of  excellent  timber  a  short  dis- 
tance l)ack  on  the  foot-hills  of  the  Sierra.  From  Bridgeport  to  Aurora  a  good 
wafi-on  road  has  been  l)uilt,  also  an  expensive  road  across  the  mountains  to  Stock- 
ton iC'alifoniia.  The  vote  in  this  county  numbers  a  little  over  300  ;  the  value 
of  real  and  personal  property  is  estimated  at  $400,000.  It  contains  a  number 
of  hot  sprino-s  one  gi"oup,  situate  in  the  foot-lulls  on  the  road  to  Stockton,  dis- 
charircs  a  hiro-e  volume  of  boiling  water.     Mono  is  not  without  valuable  ore- 


WEST  OF  Tin:  ROCKY  MOUNTATXS.  179 

bearing  veins,  l)i)tli  of  gold  and  silver.  Some  ol'  tliepe  aic  descrilted  in  the 
chapter  on  I^snieralda  county,  Nevada,  being  situate  in  tlie  Blind  Spring  and 
other  districts  lying  partly  in  that  State,  and  partly  in  Caliibrnia.  In  the 
Dodie  district,  JO  miles  east  of  the  county  seat,  arc  some  gold  and  silver-bearing 
lodes,  several  of  which  are  explored  by  means  of  tniniels,  varying  JVom  300  t*> 
800  feet  in  length.  There  are  also  two  quartz  mills  in  this  district,  both  oC 
which,  having,  as  is  supposed,  overcome,  aftcu'  many  ineffectual  and  costly  tiials, 
the  difficulties  m(>t  with  in  working  the  ores  here,  are  now  in  a  fair  way  of  achiev- 
ing success.  That  there  is  some  fair  grade  ore  in  these  lodes  has  been  clcai'ly 
shown,  the  only  trouble  having  been  to  hit  upon  a  proper  mode  for  their  reduction. 
This  having  now  been  attained,  and  two  well-appointed  mills  placed  upon  the 
ground,  it  may  reasonably  bo  ex|)ected  that  some  Imllion  will  be  sent  from  this 
district  the  incoming  year.  Within  the  present  year  a  new  district  named  Castle 
I'eak,  lying  a  few  miles  southwest  of  Bridgeport,  has  been  erected,  a  large  and 
very  rich  gold-bearing  lotle  ha\-ing  been  found  tlicre.  It  lies  immediately  under 
ami  to  the  northeast  of  Castle  Peak,  one  of  the  highest  summits  along  this  portion 
of  the  Sierra.  Very  rich  float  rock  had  been  observed  here,  which  led  to  the 
prospecting  of  the  locality  and,  after  some  time  spent,  to  the  linal  discovery  of 
the  lode  mentioned.  Placer  mining  had  for  some  years  been  earned  on  along 
the  streams  below,  with  success,  the  gold  found  having  been  released  from  this 
liU'ge  vein  and  earned  by  the  water  of  these  creeks,  and  deposited  along  their 
banks.  The  most  of  this  mining  has  been  done  by  Chinamen,  a  company  of 
whom  are  still  at  work,  re;di/.ing  wages  that  to  these  people  are  satisfactory.  The 
cxploraiion  of  this  recently  discovered  lode  is  now  being  protjecuted,  ami  it  gives 
jiromise  of  proving  a  good  vein.  It  is  situated  at  the  line  of  contact  between 
two  favorable  formations  for  the  production  of  metal,  granite  and  slate.  Gold 
jux'dominatcs  in  value,  though  the  lode  is  also  well  charged  with  sulpliurets  of 
silver,  and  from  assays  made  it  is  calculated  that  the  ore  will  yield  by  mill  pro- 
cess, under  the  most  inexjiensivc  mode  of  treatment,  from  S-fO  to  SGO  per  ton. 
The  means  essential  to  an  economical  reduction  of  ores  prevail  here,  the  mines 
being  in  the  midst  of  stately  forests,  with  two  large  creeks — Virginia  and  Green 
— but  a  couple  of  miles  distant,  aflbrdiug  sutHcient  power  to  carry  several  hundred 
stamps.  A  large  number  of  claims  in  addition  to  the  original  location  have 'been 
taken  up  on  this  ledge,  and  as  some  of  the  owners  are  possessed  of  energy  and 
means,  it  is  thought  that  operations  will  be  initiated  hero  the  coming  season. 
The  erection  of  several  mills  has  been  detennined  upon,  the  work  of  exploration 
to  go  on  meantime,  and  it  is  generally  believed  an  active  mining  cam[)  will  spring 
up  here  next  summer. 


SECTION    XIX. 

MINING    DITCHES. 

Ditches  occupy  an  important  place  in  the  mining  of  California.  Indeed  ' 
may  be  said  that  without  them  the  inines  of  the  State  would  be  relatively  insig- 
nificant. At  least  four-fifths  of  the  gold  is  obtained  with  the  assistance,  direct 
or  indirect,  of  ditch  water.  'I'liere  are  very  lew  springs  in  the  miningregions,  the 
bed  rock  being  usually  slate  'with  perpendicular  cleavage,  through  which  Uio  water 
soaks  down  to  the  lowest  levels.  The  i)ermanent  streams  are  found  only  at  long 
intervals,  and  nm  in  deep,  steep,  and  narrow  channels.  Nature  has  furnished 
no  adequate  supply  of  water  near  the  surface  for  towns  or  for  quartz  mills;  so 
they,  as  well  as  the  hydraulic  pipes  and  sluices,  must  depend  upon  ditcli  water, 
which  thus  is  an  indisi)ensable  requisite  to  the  production  of  four-iifths,  jicrhaps 
nineteen-twentieths  of  the  gold.     It  is  fortunate  that  the  mountain  ridge  east  of 


180  RESOURCES    OF   STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

tlie  mining  district  rises  higli  into  the  region  of  snow,  where  the  moisture  that, 
falls  from^he  atmosphere  in  winter  is  condensed  and  retained  until  summer  and 
fall.  But  without  the  ditches  this  moisture  would  do  little  good  to  the  miners, 
since  there  are  few  camps  near  springs  or  on  the  immediate  banks  of  constant 
Streams. 

ExPEXSTVE  Const RrcTio^'. — The  first  experiments  in  ditching  in  18-50  were 
m.agnificently  successful.  The  canals  were  short  and  small,  and  the  water  was 
cither  sold  at  a  very  high  price,  or  was  used  in  working  out  rich  claims.  It  was 
not  uncommon  for  several  years  for  little  ditches  to  repay  the  cost  of  construction 
in  a  couple  of  months.  It  was  supposed  that  the  inght  to  the  water  of  a  good 
stream  would  be  worth  a  fortune.  The  merchants  in  each  town  considered  it 
tlieh"  interest  to  encom'age  and  assist  the  miners  to  bring  in  water,  so  as  to  increase 
the  population,  gold  production, and  trade.  The  country  was  full  of  enterprise- 
and  money,  for  which  there  was  not  much  other  use.  Numerous  ditch  companies 
were  formed  to  bring  water  from  the  elevated  regions  in  the  mountains,  and  many 
had  invested  too  much  to  withdraw  before  any  of  them  had  learned  the  biisincss 
before  them  by  experience.  The  work  was  done  when  labor  was  very  high  ; 
the  price  for  common  laborers  being  $8  per  day,  and  lumber  was  $100  per  thousand 
feet.  Before  the  canals  were  finished,  wages  had  fallen  50  per  cent,  or  more,  and 
the  w"ork  done  was  worth  in  the  market  only  half  its  cost.  Besides,  in  ISol  and 
1852  the  common  price  for  water  was  50  cents  or  SI  an  inch,  and  the  ditch  com- 
panies made  their  calculations  upon  charging  those  figures,  l)ut  before  the  com- 
pletion of  the  ditches  the  best  claims  in  the  ravines  had  been  exhausted,  and  thero 
was  not  enough  rich  ground  left  to  pay  high  prices  for  all  the  water. 
■  Bad  Exgixeeelsg. — The  ditch  companies  did  not  find  good  hydraulic  engi- 
neers. Many  of  the  canals  were  constructed  under  the  iutluence  of  carpenters 
who  wanted  to  turn  their  skill  in  wood-work  to  account,  and  wherever  it  was 
possible  they  constructed  wooden  flumes,  even  in  places  peculiarly  favorable  for  ,/ 
ditching,  and  where  the  latter  would  have  cost  less  than  flimiing.  The  flumo 
loses  value  every  year,  while  the  ditch,  by  getting  more  solid,  gains.  The  flume 
must  be  rebuilt  about  once  in  sis,  eight,  or  at  most  ten  years,  and  the  ditch, 
never.  The  flume  soon  leaks,  and  the  ditch  after  a  time  loses  very  little  by 
leakage. 

High  Flumes. — But  the  mistake  in  constructing  flumes  resting  on  the  ground 
was  little  compared  with  the  loss  suffered  by  constructing  high  flumes,  which 
were  wonderful  specimens  of  engineering  skill,  and  still  more  wonderful  samples 
of  bad  investments.  It  was  common  to  see  flumes  100  and  200  feet  high,  and 
'there  is  one  now  standing  near  Big  Oak  Flat,  in  Tuolumne  county,  256  feet  high. 
These  high  flumes  are  vciy  costly,  and  are  frequently  1)lown  down.  The  water 
could,  in  most  cases,  have  been  conveyed  in  iron  pipe,  which  is  much  cheaper, 
and  iar  more  durable,  and  in  many  instances  it  coitld  l)e  and  has  been  conveyed 
in  ditches,  constructed  at  small  cost  round  the  head  of  a  ravine.  -As  the  yield 
of  the  mines  decreased,  the  charge  for  water  l)ccanic  onerous,  and  the  miners  fonucd 
combinations  to  compel  a  reduction  of  rates,  and  these  strikes  were  accompanied 
Bometimes  by  malicious  injuries  to  ditches  and  flumes. 

UxrnoFiTABLE  INVESTMENTS. — 'J'he  l)ig  ditchcs,  almost  without  exception, 
proved  unprofitable.  Some  of  them  have  paid  more  than  their  cost,  but  not  near 
go  much  as  the  same  mone}'  would  have  paid  at  the  cun-ent  rates  of  interest.  It 
is  estimated  by  competent  men  that  not  less  than  820.000,000  have  been  invested 
in  the  mining  ditches  of  Califoraia,  and  that  their  present  cash  value  is  not  more 
than  82,000,000.  In  many  cases  they  broke  the  men  who  imdertook  them.  Most 
of  them  have  been  sold  by  the  sherifl",  some  of  them  several  times  over ;  l)reakiug 
the  first  purchaser,  as  well  as  the  builders.  Bean's  "History  of  Nevada  County," 
speaking  of  the  South  Yuba  ditch  as  a  remarkable  work,  says  :  "While  nearly  all 
the  canal  enterprises  of  the  country  have  ])assed  from  the  control  of  the  men  w'ho 
conceived  and  executed  them,  the  South  Yuba  canal  remains  a  triumph,  as  well  of 


^•i-ti 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  181 

tlie  eiii^iiu'c'iiin;'  as  of  llic  linaiK-ial  aMlity  of  its  uuiua^'eiv,  still  veuuiiiiing  iu 
]>ossossii)H  of  the  latliors  ol"  tlio  cuterpriyc,  and  owned  witliout  an  incumbrance  or 
enemy,  all  the  men  who  assisted  in  any  dei^Tcc  in  the  constiuction  of  the  works 
havinu^  lono-  ai^o  been  paid  to  the  uttermost  iarlhin*;"." 

Decline  in  Value. — There  is  a  steady  decline  in  the  value  of  the  ditches, 
as  there  is  a  steady  decrease  in  the  yield  of  the  placer  mines,  which  consume 
nine-tenths  of  the  water.  The  Truckee  ditch,  which  was  completed  in  1S5S,  at 
a  cost  of  $1,000,000,  to  supply  the  towns  on  the  Blue  lead,  near  the  southern 
border  of  Sierra  county,  has  i>"one  to  ruin.  Forty  miles  of  the  new  ditch,  at 
Columbia,  have  been  aban<loned,  and  11  miles  of  the  Amador  ditch  are  abandoned. 
I'esidcs  these  costly  raaui  trunks  of  large  canals  there  are  hundreds  of  miles  of 
branches,  each  large  enough  to  carry  100  inches  or  more,  that  once  supplied 
water  to  thousands  of  njintirs,  who  have  now  left  their  camp,  and  the  ditches  are 
dry  and  broken.  The  i\Iokelumno  Hill  Ditch  Company  is  now  constructing  a 
l^ranch  ditch  to  Cat  Camp;  the  Sears  Uniim  Ditch  Company,  in  (Sierra  county, 
are  constructing  a  branch  to  l\)verty  Hill  and  Scales's  Diggings,  and  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  S(jiuh  Fork  canal,  in  Eldorado  county,  is  talking  of  building  a 
new  ditch,  to  be  oO  miles  long,  and  to  carry  5,000  inches  of  W'ater;  but  it  is 
probable  that  more  miles  will  be  abandoned  during  the  next  three  or  four  years 
than  will  be  built.  The  receipts  of  the  Bear  river  and  Atiburn  canal  show  a 
steady  decline  from  $90,000  in  lbG3  to  §40^000  in  18G6.  One  of  the  bcst-iulbmied 
ditch  miners  in  Tuolumne  says  that  the  receipts  of  the  ditches  in  that  county 
decrease  six  per  cent,  every  year  on  an  average,  while  there  is  no  coiTcspondent 
decrease  of  expenditures.  The  decrease  in  the  State  generally  is  probably  not 
less  than  10  per  cent. 

The  Supply  of  \Yateii  exceeding  the  Demand. — ilany  of  the  companies 
are  seriously  troubled  by  inability  to  sell  all  their  water,  and  some  have  comn^enced 
to  buy  np  mining  ground  to  wash  on  their  own  account.  It  not  unfrequently 
happens  that  miners  finding  their  claims  will  not  pay,  after  having  run  iu  debt 
to  the  water  company,  transfer  their  claims  in  payment,  and  the  company,  by 
hiring  Chinamen,  and  requiring  the  ditch  tenders  to  devote  their  spare  hours  to 
the  labor  of  superintendence,  and  using  water  for  which  there  is  no  sale,  manage 
to  make  a  good  profit  where  the  original  claim  owners  could  make  none. 

Small  Ditches. — Although  the  large  ditches,  as  a  class,  are  unproiltablc, 
many  of  the  small  ones  pay  very  well.  The  minor  ditches  are  short,  constructed 
on  favorable  ground,  have  no  high  Humes  to  be  blown  down  by  i?Lic  wind,  or  to  be 
broken  by  the  snow,  or  swept  away  by  avalanches,  and  not  unfrequently  they 
]nck  up  water  that  escapes  from  a  ditch  higher  up,  so  they  avoid  many  of  the 
most  serious  expenses  of  the  larger  ditches.  They  usually  nm  dry  easily  in  the 
sunnner,  and  snpi)ly  single  claims  or* little  camps  of  no  note,  and  so  they  are 
relatively  of  little  importance  to  the  raining  industry  of  the  country. 

Flumes. — Flumes  are  usually  made  with  boards,  an  inch  and  a  half  thick  for 
the  bottom,  and  an  inch  and  a  quarter  for  the  sides.  At  intervals  of  two  and  a 
lialf  feet  there  is  a  support  for  the  Hume  box,  consisting  of  a  sill,  posts,  and  cap. 
The  sills  are  four  inches  square;  the  posts  three  by  four  inches,  and  the  caps  one 
and  a  half  by  fom*  inches.  To  erect  a  Hume  25  feet  high,  costs  about  twice  as 
much  as  to  lay  one  on  the  level  of  the  ground,  and  at  GO  feet  it  costs  fom  times 
as  nuich.  The  annual  re{)air  of  a  flume  is  about  one-eighth  of  its  original  cost, 
in  favorable  circumstances.  If  the  flume  is  left  dry  several  months,  the  repairs 
may  bo  more,  for  the  sun  warps  and  splits  the  boards,  and  draws  the  nails.  A 
Hume  box,  40  inches  wide  by  20  inches  deep,  with  a  grade  of  13  feet  to  the  mile, 
will  carry  about  800  inches,  and  such  a  Hume  btiilt  on  the  surface  of  the  ground 
will  Cost  now  at  the  rate  of  84,000  per  mile,  neai-  a  saw-mill.  The  boards  are 
})ut  in  tke  Hume  rough,  but  are  always  battened,  and  sometimes  caulked.  The 
cheajicst  flume  costs  twice  as  much  as  the  cheapest  ditch  of  the  same  capacity,  and 
the  repairs  of  a  flume  cost  90  per  cent,  more  than  those  of  a  ditch.    The  duration 


J 


182  EESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND    TEEIilTORIES 

of  n,  liigli  flume  is  on  nn  average  aT)ont  six  years,  and  of  a  low  one  8  or  10. 
For  the  first  two  or  thi'ee  years  after  the  construction  of  a  ditch  there  is  much 
trouble  from  gopher  lioles  and  slides. 

The  flumes  in  the  highest  portions  of  the  Sierra,  and  especially  about  Tlowland 
riat  and  La  Porte  are  much  troubled  by  the  snow,  and  much  labor  is  spent 
on  them'  every  winter.  I'he  weight  of  the  snow  is  so  gi'cat  that  after  every  snow- 
storm, or  while  it  is  in  progress,  a  man  must  go  along  and  clear  the  flume  with 
a  shovel.  In  cases  where  the  flume  is  on  a  hill-side  it  is  necessary  to  shovel 
away  the  snow  from  the  upper  side  of  the  flume,  for  the  mass  moves  down  hill 
with  tremendous  weight,  though  with  very  slow  motion,  and  no  flume  could 
resist  it. 

Ieon  Pipe. — The  use  of  iron  pipe  in  the  form  of  an  inverted  siphon,  instead 
of  high  flume,  for  the  purpose  of  carr3-ing  water  across  ra^nnes,  1ms  been  a  great 
improvement  and  saving  in  the  ditch  business.  Near  Placerville,  water  is  earned 
across  a  depression  190  feet,  and  1,600  feet  long,  in  a  pipe  that  cost  $900,  Avhereas 
a  flume  would  have  cost  $25,000.  Not  only  is  it  cheaper,  but  it  can  bo  used  where 
flinning  is  peculiarly  impossible,  as  in  crossing  raAnnes  400  feet  deep. 

The  sheet-iron  used  in  making  pipe  comes  in  sheets  two  feet  wide  and  six  feet 
long.  The  common  sizes  of  pipe  are  7  inches  and  11  inches  in  diameter,  made 
in  joints  two  feet  long.  A  sheet  makes  two  joints  of  11-inch  pipe,  and  three  of 
seven-inch,  and  11  joints  are  riveted  together  to  make  a  section  20}  feet  long.  At 
the  end  of  each  section,  as  pipes  are  usually  made,  there  is  an  ear  or  hook  riveted 
on  each  side,  and  when  the  foot  of  one  section  is  thrust  into  the  head  of  another, 
a  wire  is  wrapped  round  the  opposite  ears  or  hooks  to  tie  the  sections  together.  In 
case  the  pipe  is  laid  on  a  hill-side  numing  down,  each  section  is  tied  at  the  head 
to  a  post  to  keep  it  in  place ;  and  the  post  may  be  supported  by  a  board  placed 
edgewise  and  crosswise  in  the  ground.  About  an  inch  and  a  half  of  space  is 
;iUowed  for  the  lap  at  the  end  of  the  sections.  The  ends  need  to  be  made  with 
precision,  so  that  they  will  be  water-tiglit,  without  packing.  The  pipe  should 
be  put  together  in  a  straight  line,  and  the  sections  should  be  driven  together 
with  a  sledge-hammer,  striking  a  board  laid  across  the  end  of  the  section.  The 
pipe  needs  to  be  coated  with  tar  to  preserve  it,  and  if  very  large  it  may  be  coated 
inside  as  well  as  out. 

The  cost  of  11-inch  pipe  made  of  No.  20  iron  is  about  75  cents  per  foot.  TlrO 
thickness  of  the  iron  depends  upon  the  amount  of  pressure  and  the  size  of  the 
])ipe.  The  larger  the  pipe  the  thicker  the  iron  should  be.  The  pressure  at  190 
feet  is  88  pounds  per  sipiare  inch,  and  No.  20  iron  is  strong  enough  for  that,  if 
the  pipe  be  not  more  than  ]  1  inches  in  diameter. 

The  capacity  of  an  inverted  siphon  dep(Muls  mainly  on  the  three  elements  of. 
diameter,  head  and  depression.  The  deeper  the  depression  the  greater  the  frictiou 
and  the  slower  the  cuiTcnt.  A  straight  pipe  11  inclu'S  in  diameter  will  carry 
live  times  as  mucli  water  as  an  inverted  siphon  of  tlie  same  size  and  head  with 
a  depression  of  200  feet. 

Ditch  Law. — The  rules  of  the  common  law  rehilive  to  the  rights  to  water 
were  unsuited  to  the  wants  of  California,  and  thereibre  tlie  courts  4iave,  by  their 
decision,  established  a  new  code,  wlii(;h  was  original  here.  Among  the  principles 
of  the  California  water  code  are  the  following: 

The  water  of  a  stream  may  be  led  away  from  its  natural  bed  and  never  returned. 

Water  becomes  the  property  of  the  first  claimant;  but  it  becomes  his  property 
only  for  the  purpose  for  which  he  claims  it,  and  to  the  amount  which  he  appro- 
I)riates. 

The  liolder  of  a  claim  has  a  riglit  to  use  the  water  without  any  obstruction 
from  later  claimants,  who  may,  nevertheless,  use  the  water,  if  they  return  it  clear 
and  uninjured  above  the  point  where  the  first  claimant  takes  it. 

If  a  miner  after  claiming  and  using  water  abandons  it,  and  allows  it  to  run 
into  a  channel  claimed  by  another,  tlio  latter  becomes  the  owner. 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  183 

If  ii  ditdi  is  cut  lur  <lr;iiimuv  ivlono.  auotlier  may  claim  tlic  water  fnr  miiiino'. 

"Wlion  tlu>  waters  of  an  artilicial  ditch  are  turned  into  a  natural  ^stream  with 
tlie  intention  of  takiniif  out  the  same  amount  at  a  lower  point  on  the  st^'eam,  they 
may  be  so  taken  out/though  the  stream  had  already  been  claimed  l)y  another  title. 

No  person  has  n  right'to  take  the  water  from  the  bed  of  a  stream  in  which 
there  is  a  prior  mining  claim  that  cannot  be  worked  without  the  water. 

.Section  9  of  the  act  of  Congress  of  August,  ISGG,  relalive  1o  ditch  companies, 
makes  a  material  change  in  the  liglits  of  ditch  companies.     It  provides: 

T>at  wliorcvpr,  bv  priority  of  iiossessioti,  vi<rlits  to  the  use  of  \v;itcr  for  mininrr,  ajjricuUnval, 
niauulHCturino-,  or  otiic-r  purposes,  liave  vosteil  and  accrued,  and  the  same  am  rccoj^uizod  and 
Hckuo\vledp.ed  by  tlio  local  customs,  laws,  and  tho  decisions  of  courts,  the  possessors  and 
owners  of  siicli  vested  riirlits  shall  be  maintained  and  protected  in  the  same;  and  the  right 
of  way  for  the  construction  of  ditches  and  canals  IVir  the  purposes  aforesaid  is  hereby  acknowl- 
e-lfredand  contirmed :  Frori'lcd.  hoiiynr.  That  whenever,  after  tho  passaj^e  of  this  act,  any 
person  or  persons  shall,  in  the  cimstrnctiou  of  any  ditch  or  canal,  injn.re  or  dauiag'o  the  posses- 
sions of  any  settler  on  the  public  domain,  the  ])arty  committiuj;^  such  injury  or  damage  shall 
be  liable  to  the  party  injured  for  such  injury  or  daniajjc. 

Under  this  act  a  ditch  company  acquires  a  title  to  the  land  on  which  the  ditch 
is  made,  and  to  as  much  more  on  each  side  as  may  be  necessaiy  for  the  safety 
or  business  of  the  ditch.  The  company  has,  beside,  the  right  to  run  a  ditch  over 
mining  claims  and  fanns  on  the  public  domain,  on  the  payment  of  the  actual 
damage  done.  Previous  to  the  passage  of  this  act,  if  a  <litch  was  located  over 
a  mining  claim  of  prior  date,  the  miner  had  a  right  to  Avash  away  all  his  ground, 
and  if  the  ditch  was  damaged  the  ditch  company  had  to  bear  the  loss;  but  undei 
the  new  law  the  ditch  company  has  a  l)Ctter  title  than  the  mining  claims  of  prior 
location  ;  and  if  the  miner  washes  away  the  ditch  or  injures  it,  he  becomes  respon- 
sible for  the  danaage. 

CoxFLiCT  BETWEEN  DiTCHEr.s  AND  MiXEKS. — The  first  conflict  or  case 
under  the  law  arose  at  Gold  Run,  in  Placer  coimty,  where  laliere  was  a  large 
e.Ktent  of  ground  suitable  for  hydraulic  wasliing,  but  it  remained  long  inacoessiblc 
for  want  of  water  or  of  outlet."^  Several  ditch  companies  ran  their  ditches  over 
mining  claims,  and  the  miners  notified  the  ditch  companies  that  the  gromid  there 
would,  after  a  time,  be  washed  away.  The  ditch  companies  replied  that  they 
recognizcnl  the  prior  right  of  the  miners  and  would  move  the  ditches  at  their  own 
expense  when  the  washing  should  get  near  to  ihe  line.  Before  Ihat  time  came, 
the  act  of  1SG(3  was  passed  giving  to  the  ditch  companies  sui)erior  rights.  _  Early 
in  this  year  oije  of  the  miners,  over  whose  claim  several  ditches  ran,  notified  the 
companies  tliat  ho  was  rapidly  approaching  their  lines  with  his  pipe,  and  the  bank 
would  soon  be  Avashed  away.  One  company  replied  tliat  they  would  move  at 
their  own  expense;  another  gave  him  notice  not  to  come  within  50  feet,  or  they 
would  hold  him  responsible'  for  all  damage  done.  He  has  been  con:ipclled  to 
stop  because  his  proiits  would  not  have  been  large  enough  to  cover  the  damage. 

PROPOSED  Graxt  OF  Laxi)  ALONG  I)lTCHES. — The  ditch  companies  havo 
solicited  from  Congress  a  gnmt  of  at  least  100  feet  on  each  sidt  of  their  lines ; 
and  their  wish  upon  this  point  deserves  attentive  consideration.  If  such  a  grant, 
at  least  along  the  main  trunks  where  n<jt  less  than  500  inches. of  water  are  carried 
for  si.K  months  in  the  year  without  disturbing  the  claims  of  miners  located  pre- 
vious to  the  location  of  the  ditch,  would  encourage  the  construction  of  new  ditches, 
or  would  give  longer  life  or  greater  size  to  those  now  in  existence,  it  would  bo 
politic.  These  companies,  by  whose  assistance  $700,000,000  have  been  taken 
from  tho  ground,  at  a  loss  of  810,000,000  to  themselves,  deserve  to  rc<-oive  sorao 
favors,  which  will  cost  nothing  to  the  government,  do  no  injustice  to  iudividual 
mines,  and  increase  or  keej)  n[)  the  su])])ly  of  water. 

Before  the  passage  of  the  act  of  IbGG,  granting  the  right  of  way  to  the  ditches, 
the  Pacific  Kailroad  act  had  been  passed,  giving  to  that  road  alternate  sections 
of  public  land  for  a  width  of  five  miles  on  each  side  of  the  line,  and  thus  tho 
Central  Pacifio  Railroad  Company  has  become  the  owner  of   many  miles  of 


184  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

ditch  belong-ing'  to  dilTevont  companies  aloi:i^  its  line;  and  altliougli  it  lias  n«t 
seen  fit  to  demand  anything  from  them,  still  it  is  very  unpleasant  to  the  ditch 
companies  to  know  that  they  are  at  the  mercy  of  another  association  of  later 
date.  The  act  of  18G6  g-iving  a  right  of  way  for  the  ditch  companies  secm'es 
them  against  losing  their  lines  by  future  railroad  grants,  but  it  leaves  them  sub- 
ject to  fears  that  the  land  immediate!}'  alongside  may  be  taken  in  such  a  wav 
as  to  prevent  changes  and  improvements  that  might  be  required.  In  some 
places  where  there  are  high  flumes  a  strip  100  feet  on  each  side  of  the  line  Y.'ould 
not  be  too  much  to  be  granted  to  the  ditch  companies  ;  but  in  those  places  where 
there  is  a  plain  ditch  or  iron  pipe  on  a  plain  surface,  there  would  seem  to  be 
no  good  reason  for  granting  more  than  room  enough  to  drive  a  wagon  along*. 

JilEASUREMEXT  OF  Water. — Water  is  sold  by  the  inch,  and  usually  an 
inch  is  the  amojint  which  escapes  thi-oiigh  an  orifice  an  inch  square,  with  the 
water  six  inches  deep  above  the  top  of  the  orifice.  •  That  is  called  a  six-inch 
])ressure.  If  a  large  quantity  is  sold,  the  orifice  may  be  two  or  three  inches 
high.  The  mode  of  measurement,  however,  is  not  uniform.  In  some  places 
the  pre-ssure  is  nine  or  ten  inches  ;  in  others  there  is  no  pressure  but  the  quantity 
that  escapes  through  an  orifice  an  inch  wide,  and  three  inches  high,  without 
pressure,  is  called  an  inch. 

In  calculations  made  by  machinists  it  is  often  necessary  to  use  the  term  "an 
inch  of  water,"  and  by  common  consent  that  phrase  is  accepted  now  to  mean 
a  supply  of  4.032  cubic  inches,  or  145.86-100  pounds  per  minute;  3,360  cubic 
feet,  10,656  gallons  in  24  hours ;  and  1,226,400  cubic  feet,  30,410  tons  of  40 
cubic  feet  each,  or  6,020,540  gallons  in  365  days  of  24  hours  each.  If  an  inch 
of  wat^r  pass  200  feet  foil  it  supplies  an  amount  of  power  about  one-tenth  less 
than  one-horse  power. 

At  the  last  session  of  the  legislature  of  California  a  bill  was  introduced  to 
provide  that  "  where  the  question  shall  be  involved  as  to  the  quantity  of  running 
water  sokl,  ])urchased,  delivered,  or  used,  and  described  by  "  miner's  inch,"  it 
shall  be  held  and  declared  that  a  'miner's  inch'  of  water  shall  consist  of  two 
and  one-third  cubic  feet  of  water  passing  a  given  point  in  one  minute  of  time,  or 
seven  and  -foVolj  g'^Hons  of  water  passing  a  given  point  in  a  minute,  or  145y*'^fjj 
pounds  of  water  passing  a  given  point  in  a  minute."  The  bill  was  refeiTcd  to 
the  committee  on  mines,  which  reported  a  substitute,  providing  that  "  a  legal  inch 
of  water  sold  for  mining,  agricultural,  or  other  piu'pose,  is  hereby  declared  to  be 
what  water  may  pass  through  an  orifice  of  one  inch  square,  through  plank  of  one 
inch  in  thickness,  with  a  pressure  of  seven  inches  measured  from  the  centre  of 
the  orifice  to  the  surface  of  the  water:  Provided,  the  water  shall  be  delivered 
from  a  box  in  which  the  water  has  no  motion  except  that  caused  by  the  flow  of 
the  water  to  bo  delivered  from  that  particular  box."  Both  the  original  bill  and 
the  substitute  were  indefinitely  ])osti)oned.  The  objections  to  the  substitute  were 
that  it  might  be  as  well  to  let  the  unners  and  ditch  companies  agree  upon  their 
measurements  as  well  as  upon  their  prices,  and  that  some  comjuinics  which  had 
long  a(h)pted  other  modes  of  measurement  wouhl  be  inconvenienced. 

Eureka  Lake  and  Yuba  Canal  Company's  Ditches. — The  property  of 
this  company,  under  the  present  organization,  is  a  consolidation  of  the  ditch  and 
mining  property  formerly  owned  by  a  number  of  dillerent  companies.  It  extends 
over  a  vast  range  of  country,  and  embraces  many  valuable  mines.  The  main 
ditches  were  constructed  during  the  years  1855  to  1859,  inclusive.  Purchase^ 
of  the  smaller  ditches  and  consolidation  of  the  larger  have  taken  place  at  different 
times  during  the  last  (iight  years ;  that  between  the  Eureka  Lake  Water  Com- 
])any  and  the  Middle  Yuba  Canal  and  AYater  Company  was  on  the  1st  of  August, 
1865.  All  the  property  of  this  company  has  since  been  transferred  to  a  corpora- 
tion organized  for  the  purpose  in  the  city  of  New  Yorlc,  the  transfer  having  taken 
effect  on  the  1st  of  January,  1866.  The  following  statement  is  derived  from  tho 
superintendent,  Mr.  Richai'd  Abbey:  Capital  stock,  $2,250,00©.     Tho  first  cost 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  185 

of  constnunidU  of  all  the  workts  would  be  dilUcult  to  ostiinate,  Lut  would  ])rol)- 
ably  nut  fall  far  short  of  $2,000,000.  The  cost  of  the  Eureka  Lake  Water  Com- 
pany and  Jliddlc  Yuba  Canal  and  Water  Conipany'.s  properly  was  $1, GOO, 000; 
lencfth  of  main  ditches  and  flumes,  100  miles;  supplemental,  GO;  capacity,  5,000 
inches.  Estimated  amount  of  gold  taken  out  Ly  the  miners  supplied  with  water 
by  this  company  during  the  last  live  years,  $:2,000,000  per  year. 

Mr.  George  Black,  civil  engineer,  thus  describes  the  district  of  country  through 
which  these  remarkable  ditches  run,  the  prevailing  systems  of  mining,  and  the 
costs  and  profits: 

The  milling  section  of  country  supplied  by  tlu;  Middle  Yuba  canal  is  situated  in  the  north- 
west of  Nevada  county,  and  coninienccs  at  North  San  Juan  ;  it  thence  extends,  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Middle  Yuba  river,  to  its  junction  with  the  Main  Yuba;  thence,  on  the  south- 
easterly side  of  the  Main  Yuba,  by  Sebastopol,  Manzanita  Hill,  Sweetlands,  Buckeye,  Birch- 
ville,  and  Frcncli  Corral,  a  distaiice  of  about  six  miles. 

At  Junction  Blutf,  a  spur  from  Manzanita  Hill,  the  Middle  and  North  Yuba  rivers  join 
together  and  flow  in  a  southwesterly  direction,  for  a  distance  of  about  eipjht  miles,  to  the  junc- 
tion of  the  South  Yuba,  at  Point  Defiance,  three  miles  below  French  Corral. 

From  San  Juan  to  a  point  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  below  Junction  Bluff,  the  north  edge 
of  the  mining  ground  is  at  a  distance  of  about  half  a  mile  from  the  river,  and  at  an  elevation 
of  about  !~^UU  feet  above  it,  having  a  gradual  inclination  to  the  water's  edge.  From  this  point 
to  French  Corral  a  slate  ridge  of  bills  extends  between  the  northwest  side  of  the  mining 
ground  and  the  river.  On  the  south  it  is  bounded  by  a  low  ridge  of  hills,  which  extend  to 
the  South  Yuba.  Along  the  north  and  west  sides  of  these  hills,  and  in  the  intervening  val- 
ley's, part  of  the  company's  main  canal  is  situated,  together  with  the  branches  and  reservoirs 
belonging  to  it. 

'I  lie  mining  ground  from  San  Juan  to  French  CoiTal  is  composed  of  a  succession  of  gently 
rounded  gravel  hills,  in  length  from  one  mile  to  one  mile  and  a  half  each,  separated  bj'  ravines ; 
the  width  is  more  contracted  in  some  j)laces  than  in  others ;  on  an  average,  it  may  be  taken 
at  \,')00  feet.  The  depth  along  the  centre  varies  from  15U  to  200  feet,  diminishing  towards 
the  sides.  The  deposit  rests  on  a  basin-shaped  depression  in  the  bed  rock,  wliich  is  composed 
in  some  places  of  granite,  in  others  of  either  trap  or  transition  slate.  In  those  places  where 
the  superincumbent  gravel  has  been  washed  away  the  bed  rock  is  exposed  to  view,  and  pre- 
sents a  similar  appearance  to  that  of  the  present  river,  Avhicli  llows  several  hundred  feet 
bt-neath.  The  water-worn  appearance  of  the  rocks,  all  the  angles  and  projecting  points  of 
which  have  been  rounded  off,  show  very  plainly  that  at  one  time  a  powerful  current  of  water 
must  have  swejit  over  them. 

The  gravul  hills  are  composed  of  layers  (in  some  places  almost  horizontal)  of  sand  and 
gravel,  intermixed  here  and  there  with  streaks  of  clay.  The  upper  layers  are  composed  of 
sand  and  fine  gravel ;  the  gravel  becomes  coarser  as  the  depth  increases.  The  lower  portion 
is  composed  of  boulders  and  gravel  cemented  together  into  a  hard  and  compact  mass,  resting 
on  the  bed  rock.  Gold  is  found  throughout  the  whole  of  this  deposit ;  the  upper  50  or  60 
feet  contain  it  only  in  very  small  quantities;  it  increases  with  the  depth,  the  lower  20  to  30 
feet  lying  above  the  bed  rock  being  invariably  the  richest.  The  gold  is  what  is  usually 
termed  "  fine,"  being  in  very  minute  scales,  in  some  cases  almost  resembling  the  fineness  of 
dust.     Large  and  coarse  gold  is  rarely  met  with  in  this  locality. 

Gold  mining  was  at  first  only  carried  on  in  the  beds  of  rivers  and  ravines  or  along  their 
banks,  where  coarse  gold  was  found,  with  comparatively  little  labor  or  expense  in  the  extrac- 
tion of  it.  When  these  places  were  partially  exhausted  the  attention  of  miners  was  turned 
to  deposits  such  as  these  under  notice,  which  could  only  be  made  available  by  a  large  supply 
of  water,  brought  iu  over  the  mining  ground  at  a  high  elevation.  It  was  to  attain  this  object 
that  a  number  of  miners  joined  together  in  ld5o  and  organized  the  Middle  Yuba  Canal  Com- 
pan}-,  and  commenced  the  construction  of  their  works.  When  they  were  completed,  a  new 
system  of  working  was  inaugurated  here,  by  whicii  water  was  made  to  replace  the  labor  of 
men.  Practical  experience  has  since  then  proved  that  the  more  water  is  used  the  more  eco- 
nomically and  efifectually  cau  the  deposits  be  worked.  The  water  is  conducted  from  the  flumo 
or  ditch  into  the  measuring  box,  12  to  11  feet  square,  iu  the  side  of  which  openings  are  lefc 
two  inches  iu  depth,  and  extending  along  all  the  sides.  The  water  is  allowed  to  attain  a 
de])th  of  six  inches  above  the  centre  of  these  orifices.  The  measurements  are  made  accord- 
ing to  the  sectional  area  through  which  the  water  fiows  ;  for  instance,  20  inches  in  length  by 
2  inches  in  depth  is  called  40  inches  in  miners'  measurement;  50X2^=100,  and  so  on.  The 
dischar^je  is  regulated  according  to  the  demand,  and  is  allowed  to  flow  during  a  working  day 
of  10  hours      A  cubic  foot,  or  7.4U  U.  8.  gallons,  equals  ;58  miners'  inches. 

The  water  from  the  main  canal,  or  from  the  reservoir,  is  carried  over  high  flumes  and  in 
branch  ditches  to  the  ditl'erent  hills,  where  measuring  boxes  are  fixed  to  receive  it ;  from  these 
boxes  it  flows  through  pipes  to  the  ditierent  companies  at  work.     Tho  main  pipes  at  present 


186  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

used  aic  made  of  sLoet  iron  one-sixteeuth  of  au  inch  in  thickness,  firmly  riveted  together; 
(8,000  feet  of  pipe  are  in  use  on  tl)e  ditierent  hills.)  The  lengths  are  usually  about  12  feet ;  the 
diameter  from  11  to  18  inches.  The  main  pipe  is  eonnected  to  a  cast-iron  box,  placed  as  low 
down  as  circumstances  will  admit ;  to  this  box  pipes  of  a  lesser  diameter  are  attached,  at 
diiferent  sides,  so  that  the  water  can  be  thrown  on  ditierent  points.  At  the  extremities  of 
these  pipes  flexible  tubes  are  fixed,  to  wiiich  are  attached  nozzles  with  metallic  ends.  The 
diameter  of  tht^r  orifices  is  two  to  three  inches.  The  nozzles  are  pointed  against  the  bank 
which  has  to  be  removed.  The  water  used  varies  from  200  to  1,000  inches  ;  1,000  inches, 
miners'  measurement,  equals  20^  cubic  feet,  or  197  U.  S.  gallons ;  in  weight,  l,f):'.0  pounds; 
being  a  constant  discharge,  under  pressui^es  varying  from  140  to  200  feet.  This  colossal 
force  brought  to  bear  against  the  banks  cuts  and  breaks  them  away  to  within  a  few  feet  of 
the  bed  rock.  Blasting  is  resorted  to  to  break  up  the  cemented  gravel :  sometimes  long  drills 
and  sand  blasts  are  used,  with  only  a  small  (piantity  of  powder.  Where  the  crust  to  be 
removed  is  too  thick  for  this  a  drift  is  run  in  a  little  further  than  the  height  of  the  bank,  and 
from  1  to  20  kegs  of  powder  are  used,  according  to  tlie  depth  of  the  bank  to  be  lifted. 

In  the  centre  of  the  hills  the  hard  gravel  is  generally  from  20  to  HO  feet  in  depth.  A  drift 
is  run  in  on  the  bed  rock,  and  from  50  to  17.j  kegs  of  powder  are  used  at  one  blast. 

Some  miners  think  it  more  economical  and  profitable  to  drift.  They  construct  parallel 
tunnels  100  feet  apart  on  tiic  bed  rock,  six  to  seven  feet  in  height,  rirnning  into  the  cliffs, 
and  connect  them  together  with  cross-drifts.  The  connecting  walls  are  washed  away  by 
liydraulic  power,  which  causes  the  entire  cliff  to  settle  down  and  break  to  pieces  in  its  fall. 
The  water  is  then  brought  to  bear  on  this  mass  with  such  force  that  it  sweeps  everything 
away  through  tunnels  constructed  in  the  bed  rock.  Timber  sluices  are  laid  through  these 
tunnels,  varying  in  width  from  two  and  a  half  to  four  feet,  and  18  inches  in  depth.  The 
grade  is  usually  1  foot  in  lo.  Two  sluices  are  sometimes  used  in  the  same  tunnel  by  different 
companies,  from  two  to  two  and  a  half  feet  in  width  each.  Larger  sluices  and  beads  of 
water,  with  a  smaller  grade,  seem  latterly  to  be  preferred  as  more  eificient. 

Several  methods  are  in  use  for  the  effectual  saving  of  the  gold.  In  some  places  the  bottoms 
of  the  sluices  are  paved  with  rounded  stones  of  oblong  shape,  the  lesser  diameter  being  about 
three  inches.  The  gold,  as  it  is  carried  along,  is  deposited  in  the  interstices  between  them. 
A  "  clean  up  "  is  made  in  every  10  or  20  days.  In  other  places  blocks  are  used,  sawn  across 
the  grain,  and  about  two  feet  square  and  six  inches  in  deptli ;  a  ba  ten  two  inches  wide  and 
two  inclwis  in  depth  is  placed  between  them  across  the  flume,  which  forms  a  hollow  of  four 
inches  in  every  two  feet;  in  these  crevices  the  gold  is  deposited.  These  blocks,  of  course, 
wear  out  very  rapidly,  and  have,  about  once  in  every  two  months,  to  be  replaced.  The 
velocity  of  the  water  is  so  great  that  rocks  weighing  from  100  to  150  pounds  are  often  carried 
along  by  the  current  through  the  tunnels.  The  entire  mass  is  precipitated  over  falls  from  12 
to  20  feet  in  height,  which  breaks  up  the  boulders  and  cement ;  the  fra,gments  are  taken  up 
anew  by  other  sluices,  again  precipitated  over  falls,  which  operation  is  repeated  several  times 
before  the  river  is  rcaclied,  several  hundred  feet  below.  In  several  places  under-current 
sluices  are  used.  At  the  end  of  and  in  the  bottom  of  the  last  sluice-box  a  grating  is  con- 
structed of  iron  bars,  through  which  a  portion  of  the  fine  gravel,  clay,  sand,  and  water  is 
separated  from  the  larger  particles,  and  drops  into  a  set  of  more  gently-graded  sluices  undtr- 
neath,  varying  in  width  from  six  to  eight  feet,  through  which  they  are  carried  off  by  the  cur- 
rent in  one  direction,  while  the  main  body  of  gravel  and  boulders  is  dashed  over  the  falls,  to 
be  again  taken  up  by  other  sluices,  along  with  the  tailings  from  the  under  ciuTeut,  and  sub- 
jected anew  to  the  same  operation,  which  is  thus  repeated  several  times  before  the  river  is 
reached. 

To  show  the  enormous  advantages  gained  by  the  present  system  of  working,  compared 
with  those  formerly  in  use,  I  may  add  that,  taking  a  miner's  wages  at  ^i  per  day,  the  cost 
of  extraction  of  a  cubic  yard  of  deposit  will  be  as  follows  : 

With  the  pan §20  CO 

With  the  rocker 5  00 

With  the  Long  Tom 1  00 

While  with  the  powerful  means  now  employed  it  is  only 20 

A  considerably  greater  quantity  of  gold  is  retained  by  this  operation  than  by  any  other 
hitherto  employed.  Quicksilver  is  used  more  by  some  m.iuers  than  by  others,  distributed 
through  their  sluices  so  as  to  form  an  amalgam  witli  the  gold.  They  have  no  fixed  rule  to 
guide  them  in  its  use. 

The  works  of  the  Middle  Yuba  Canal  Company  were  commenced  by  the  construction  of  a 
small  ditcii  from  Grizzly  canon  (a  small  stream  which  falls  into  the  Middle  Yuba)  to  San 
Juan.  The  w'ater  supply  not  being  sutficient,  the  ditch  was  enlarged  in  1855  to  its  present 
size,  wliile  the  works  were  extended  from  Grizzly  canon  to  the  river,  across  which  a  small 
dam  was  built.  It  is  situated  about  three  miles  below  Moore's  Flat,  the  latter  place  being, 
in  altitude,  about  LiJ*^^0  feet  above  it.  The  distance  from  the  dam  to  San  Juan  is  2'?  miles, 
and  four  miles  further  to  the  termination  of  tho  main  canal,  at  the  Sweetlands  creek  reser- 
voirs. 


WEST    OF    THE    EOCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


187 


Four  rocoivinpf  ivscrvoirs  IioKl  tlio  water  wliicli  Hows  at  nig-lit  and  on  Suudnys — 

San  Jnan  rcsiTvoir,  liaviufr  »■  caprtoity  of  discliarnv  of    '2,'MM)  inclics. 

Jlaii/.aniia  Hill  ii-siTvoir,  liavinjif  a  rapacity  of  disi-liargo  of 2,UlJ0       " 

Northrnp  ri'sorvoir,  liaving  a  capaeit}-  of  discliarge  of 2,i>()0       " 

Garden  reservoir,  having  a  capacity  of  discharge  of 2,UL)U      " 

Total H,8()0      " 


Tim  various  hills  are  supplied  cither  by  branch  ditches  from  these  reservoirs,  or  directly 
from  the  main  canal.  • 

The  branch  ditches  are  connected  with  high  flumes  which  span  the  low  ground  intervening 
hot  ween  the.  ridge  and  the  mining  ground.  At  San  Juan  a  high  llumii  connects  with  the 
main  canal. 

The  length  and  greatest  height  of  these  flumes  are  as  follows : 


San  Juan  aqnednet 

ISIazanita  Hill  aqueduct 
Buck>'ve  Hill  aqueduct. 
Birchvillc  Hill 


LcDjrth. 


Feet. 
1,"2()0 
2,  V'vO 

400 
1,000 


Height. 


Feet. 


43 
54 

40 


The  aggregate  length  of  the  branch  ditches  is  about  12  miles. 

The  dimensions  of  the  excavated  part  of  the  main  canal  is  as  follows  :  bottom,  fovir  feet  ; 
top.  seven  feet  :  depth,  three  feet;  the  grade  from  the  dam  to  Grizzly  caiion  is  10  feet  per 
mile,  and  from  there  to  San  Juan,  \2  feet  per  mile. 

The  dimensions  of  the  ditch  from  San  Juan  to  Garden  reservoir  are  :  bottom,  three  and 
one-half  feet ;  top,  six  feet ;  depth,  two  and  one-half  feet ;  grade,  12  feet  per  mile. 

The  main  flume  is  of  the  following  dimensions:  bottom,  four  feet ;  deptli,  three  feet,  with 
same  grade  as  ditch. 

The  branch  ditches  are  :  bottom,  two  and  one-half  feet ;  top,  four  feet ;  depth,  two  feet ; 
grade,  12  feet  per  mile. 

The  safe  capacity  of  the  canal,  as  it  is  at  present,  is  cqnid  to  a  constant  stream  of  ],.5fl0 
inches  for  10  hours,  miners'  measurement,  or  ;?,G0O  for  21  hours  =  38  cubic  feet  per  second. 

The  cost  of  the  works  has  been  as  follows  : 

Construction  of  canal  from  river  to  Mazanita  Hill $2G1,7G5  83 

Construction  of  canal  from  Mazanita  Hill  to  Uirchviile.  Hill,  together  with  pur- 
chase from  Sweetlauds,  &c 31 ,  237  50 

Expenses  and  improvements,  to  May,  Id,')? 70,954  29 

San  .Tuan,  Mazanita,  and  Jones's  reservoirs 18,  009  29 

Purcha.se  of  Grizzlv  Company's  works,  at  San  Juan 10, 000  00 

Purchase  of  Pollard's,  at  JJuckeyo  Hill 1,500  00 

Sandy  creek  extension 3,625  00 

Total  cost  to  June,  185.3 397,201  91 


Wafer  sales,  receipts  and  expenses  of  the  Middle  Yiiha  Canal  C(mqmny,fromJan- 
uanj  20,  1856,  to  Juhj  1,  1864. 


January  20,  1850,  to  December  1,  1857 
December  1,  18.57,  to  January  1,  1859. 
January  I,  18.59,  to  January  1,  I860-. 
January  1,  1860,  to  January  1, 1863  .. 
January  1,  18t)3,  to  January  1,  1864. . 
January  1,  1864,  to  July  1,  1864 


Receipts. 


$164,834  45 
l(i7,  113  .58 
172,432  54 
378, 940  78 
123,153  80 
68,726  01 


1,075,201   16 


§142, 615  48 
148,689  74 
144,375  39 

369,577  81 

109,  \m  87 

62,283  43 


968, 022  72 


Expended  in  cimstruction  of  extension  ditches,  reservoirs,  and  other  improvements,  and 
working  expenses  in  three  yciirs,  ending  January  1,  1863,  $132,535  70. 


188 


EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AXD    TtEEITORIES 


Statement  of  tcatcr  sales,  receipts  and  expenses  from  January  1,  18G3,  to  Ju 

30,  1864. 


1863. 

January 

F>-bruacy  -  ... 

MarcU 

April 

Mny 

June 

Jaly 

August  . 

September .. 

October 

^Jovember  .. 

December  .. 

1864. 

January 

February  .  . 

March 

April 

May 

June 


Sales. 


Total 191,879  81 


819  W 
497  20 
:;22  40 
993  00 
124  CO 
333  80 
352  30 
941  20 
144  30 
351  60 
926  20 
142  80 

Oil  80 
863  20 
2(10  60 
165  30 
666  45 
818  66 


Receipts. 


$9,204  04 

8,  35S  76 
6.981  96 
7,  96."!  03 
6, 077  40 

9,  358  70 

6,  198  93 

7,  895  48 

8,  159  41 

8,  900  45 

9,  025  66 
12, 347  06 

10,  615  92 
5,  678  24 
5,  955  87 

22,  882  05 
8,  429  63 
8,  721  72 


162,  764  30 


Working  expenses. 


^  ci 


C   9 
u  to 

O 


$650 
650 
600 
625 
650 
600 
650 
650 
550 
575 
650 
615 

650 
650 
.650 
650 
625 
650 


$700  00 
700  00 
700  00 
625  00 
C07  00 
535  00 
457  50 
415  00 
415  00 
700  00 
415  00 
415  00 

415  00 
415  00 
405  00 
405  00 
405  00 
405  00 


11,  340  9, 134  50 


$242  75 
212  50 
243  87 
130  75 
467  63 
226  75 

97  31 
334  65 

69  00 

7  50 

267  63 

52  00 

247  77 
710  62 
539  62 
234  80 
1.57  74 
87  75 


$915  46 

48  04 

5  61 

81  87 

69  72 

20  75 

164  40 

745  75 

102  17 

30  75 

567  48 

44  30 

113  76 
169  05 

29  00 
250  64 

69  28 
169  57 


114  00 

8  00 

39  50 


176  25 
64  00 
452  50 

20  00 

4,280  18 

2  00 

409  72 

515  90 

9  75 

2  00 

51  .50 

122  75 


$2. 542  46 
1, 724  54 
1, 557  48 
1, 502  12 
1,  794  35 
1, 382  50 
1,  545  46 
2,209  40 
1,588  67 
1, 333  25 
5, 980  29 
1,128  30 

1,  836  25 

2,  400  57 
1,  033  43 
1,512  44 
1,  308  52 
1,  435  07 


4, 330  64  3, 397  66  ,  6, 302  20  j  34, 505  10 


The  expense  of  $5,980  29,  in  November,  1863,  includes  Slate  and  county  taxes. 
It  will  be  seen  from  the  foregoing  statements  that  the  actual  receipts  for  the  sales  of  water, 
from  1856  to  July  1,  1864,  a  period  of  eight  and  one-half  years,  have  amounted  to  §968,  Oiiii  72. 

The  receipts  from  January  1,  1860,  to  January  1,  1863,  (three  years,)  have 

amounted  to $369,577  81 

While  the  expenses  have  been ]  32, 535  00 

Net  receipts 237,04-2  81 

And  the  receipts  from  January  1,  1863,  to  July  1, 1864,  (one  and  one-half  year, ) 

have  amounted  to §162, 764  30 

Expenses 34,505  10 

Net  receipts 128,259  20 


In  addition  to  the  supply  derived  from  the  Middle  Yuba,  the  canal  also  receives  part  of  the 
water  from  the  re.servoir  of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  Lake  Company,  which,  after  being  used  on 
American  Hill,  Chips,  Alleghany,  and  Miuesota,  falls  into  the  river  or  its  branches,  and 
fl  ws  from  thence  into  the  flume 

In  like  manner  the  water  in  Eureka  Lake  Company's  reservoir,  after  being  used  at  Snow 
Point,  Moore's,  Orleans,  WooL'^ey's  Flats,  aud  at  other  points  along  the  north  side  of  the 
ridge,  falls  into  the  river,  and  also  flows  into  the  flume. 

Very  extensive  mining  operations  h.ivo  bcon  carried  on  for  some  years  on  this  section. 
Tunnels,  amounting  in  the  aggregate  to  thousands  of  feet  in  length,  have  beer,  driven  through 
the  bed  rock  to  insure  the  fall  necessary  for  the  sluices.  These  tunnels  have  cost  from  $15 
to  $25  per  foot  run  :  some  have  taken  years  to  complete,  while  others  are  still  in  course  of 
construction. 

S.4N  Juan  Hill.— The  Eureka  Claim  embraces  80  claims  of  180  feet  by  80  feet — conse- 
quently an  area  of  26^  acres.  The  depth  of  the  gold-bearing  deposit  is  100  feet  to  175  feet.  The 
north  edge  of  the  gniuite  b:vsiu  on  wuich  it  rests  is  at  an  elevation  of  850  feet  over  the  Middle 
Yuba,  which  flows  beneath.  500  to  1,000  inches  of  water  per  day,  supplied  by  the  Eureka 
Lake  Company,  arc  used  through  three  iron  pipes  12  inches  to  14  inches  in  diameter. 

Upwards  of  five  years — from  August,  1855,  to  October,  1860— were  taken  to  construct  a 


WEST    OF    THE    EOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  189 

tnnnel   so  that  tlio  prnvol  could  bo  worked  to  the  bod  rod;.     The  cxpen.scs  incurred  before  a 
dividend  was  declared  were  S14'3,0()(). 

The  expenses  of  \vorkin<j  tliis  clniin   from  Jnly  2-1,  ISGO,  to  Decendicr  21,  iSC,2 — two  and 
one-tliird  years — were  ivs  follows: 

Canviis  iind  liose $4,654 

rnrcbase  of  claims 2'i,  800 

Water G7,800 

Labor,  quicksilver,  tools,  &c 51 ,  95*2 

Lo>vering  tunnel 20,  000 

Lumber «,  400 

Powder 20,000 

]9:^,600 
Proceeds  from  claims 287, 200 

Net  profits.... 93,600 

During  the  period  of  two  and  one-third  years,  eiglit  months  were  lost  in  lowering  the  exist- 
ing tunnel,  so  as  to  obtain  the  requisite  fall  for  the  tiumes. 

December  21,  16G2,  to  April  1,  IdGo — three  and  one-fourth  months  : 

Expenses  for  water - $11,  000 

Labor,  quicksilver,  &.c 8,000 

19, 000 
Proceeds  from  claims 50,  000 

Net  profits 31,000 

In  Jnno,  1863,  this  company  was  regularly  incorporated,  and  the  office  established  in  San 
Francisco.     The  following  is  a  detailed  account  of  expenses  and  receipts  since  then  : 

Receipts  and  erpenditures  of  the  F.iirrka   Gold  Mining  Company's  Claim  from  June  5,  1863, 

tu  August  11,  li-;'G4. 

Augvrst  11,  1SG4: 

Cash,  labor  account $24,986  56. 

Expense,  lumber,  candles,  coal,  merchandise,  incidentals 4,568  42 

Claims  account C02  50 

Hose 1,488  10 

Powder 9,642  17 

Water 35,782  49 

Quicksilver 272  81 

Taxes 108  40 

Dividend  account 66,  000  00 

Balance 4,078  45 

147,  ,S29  90 

August  11,  1864: 
Cash  received  from  claims  from  Juno  5,  18G3,  to  date $147,529  90 

SAX  JUAN  KILL. 

Dcadman  Cut  Mining  Claims— 'Superficial  area,  square  feet 94,623 

Average  depth,  feet 100 

Cubic  contents,  cubic  yards 350,455 

April  29,  1855,  to  February  4,  1859: 

Water $23,  .565  76 

Special  expense 20,017  78 

Labor 27, 849  75 

TiT433  29 
Cash  received  from  claims 1 56,  307  73 

Net  profits 84,874  44 

This  claim  was  entirely  worked  out  in  16.59. 

The  average  quantity  of  gold  in  it  was,  per  cubic  yard 44 

The  total  cost  of  extracting,  including  water,  per  cubic  yard 20 


190  EESOURCES    OF    STATES    A^^D    TEEEITOEIES 

MANZAXTTA  HILL. 

McKeeby  &  Company's  Claims,  average  length  851   feet  by  315  feet,  square 

yards -----  28,240 

Average  depth,  feet 120 

Amount  of  gravel,  cubic  yards ^,191)  400 

Cash  received  fiom  claims .$368, 932  78 

Constmctiou  of  tuunel $18,000  00 

Water 81,555  25 

Expenses ■ 1-12,717  53 

Dividends  paid 126,660  00 

368. 932  78 


This  claim  has  been  in  operation  since  1855.  Tlie  total  quantity  of  water  nsed  has  been 
339,  374  inches,  the  price  of  which  has  varied  from  50  cents  to  20  cents  per  inch.  The  aver- 
age quantity  of  gold,  30  cents  percvibic  yard.  Costuf  water,  7^  cents  per  cubic  yard.  Total 
c-ost  of  extraction,  including  water,  20  cents.  The  shaft  sunk  from  the  surlVice  of  the  bed 
rock  to  the  sluice  is  160  ll'et  10  inches.  The  size  of  the  claims  is  180  feet  by  80,  or  one-third 
of  an  acre  in  area,  (each  company  owning  several  claims.)  The  average  quantity  of  water 
required  for  the  complete  working  of  each  has  been  18,614  inches  ;  at  20  c-ents  per  inch, 
$3,722. 

The  Middle  Yuba  Company's  receipts  over  expenses  for  12  months  ending  July 

1,  1864... $iS5,506 

The  Eureka  Lake  Company's  receipts  over  expenses  for  12  months  ending  July 

],  1864,  were,  say 145,060 

Net  receipts 230,  oOG 


The  safe  capacity  of  discharge  of  the  canals  of  both  companies,  being  a  constant  stream 
during  1 0  hours,  is  as  follows  : 

Miuors'  inches. 

Eureka  Lake  canal : 3,  OOO 

Miners'  canal — 750 

Other  districts 250 

4, 000 

Middle  Yuba  canal 1,500 

5, 509 

5, 500  inches  for  ten  hours,  equal  for  24  hours 1.3, 2U0 

20  per  cent,  deficiency  in  supply,  stoppages,  and  other  causes 2, 620 

10, 580 

Say  10,000  inches  per  day,  &c. 

In  reference  to  the  Eureka  Lake  canal,  Mr.  Black  makes  the  following  remarks : 
The  section  of  countrj'  which  can  bo  supplied  by  these  works  extends  over  a  large  portion  of 
Nevada  county,  commencing  at  the  junction  of  tlie  North  and  South  Yuba  rivers,  four  miles 
below  French  Corral;  thence  it  extends  in  a  northeasterly  direction  between  these  rivers  toward 
the  summit  of  tlie  Sierra  Nevada.  A  main  ridge  between  these  rivers  gradually  rises  from 
1,500  feet,  tlie  altitude  of  French  Corral  above  the  sea,  to  8,000  feet  on  the  sunnnit.  Numer- 
ous lateral  spurs,  with  ravines  separating  them,  extend  from  the  main  ridge  ou  each  side  to 
the  rivers.  In  most  cases  the  mining  ground  is  situated  on  benches  near  the  extremities  of 
these  spurs ;  in  some,  however,  it  is  situated  in  channels  between  them.  From  French  Corral 
to  Eureka,  a  distance  of  about  32  miles,  the  average  width  between  the  rivers  is  seven  miles; 
from  thence  the  widtii  gradually  increases  to  about  16  miles  on  the  summit  of  the  mountains. 
The  first  portion  is  that  in  which  the  mining  section  is  situated,  and  comprises  an  area  of 
about  175  square  miles.  The  area  of  the  ditfer'Ht  places  wiiere  gravel  deposits  have  been 
found  may  together  bo  about  15  square  miles.  Tlie  deposits  in  addition  to  those  from  French 
Corral  to"Sau  Juan,  already  described,  extend  on  the  north  side  of  the  ridge  by  Iladger's 
Hill,  Grass  Valley,  Eurisko,  and  further  uj)  by  Woolscy's,  Moore's,  Orleans  Flat,  and  Snow 
Point  to  Eureka;  and  on  the  south  slope  of  the  ridge  from  Jlontezuma  to  Pleasant  Hill, 
Cherokee,  Chimney  Hill,  Columbia  Hill,  Lake  City,  Blooinfield,  Relief  Hill,  and  Mount 
Ziou.    The  thickness  of  the  deposits  varies  from  60  to  200  feet,  nearly  similar  to  those  before 


M". 


f.VjSv  -jfy. 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY   MOUNTAINS. 


191 


closcribotl  at  San  Juan,  save  that  they  arc  not  so  rich  in  polil,  antl  arc  more  intcrmixcJ  with 
scams  of  clay,  whie-ii  render  them  more  diflicnlt  to  he  wurhed. 

Fiom  l^nrel<.i  to  tlio  summit  of  tiie  mountains  no  (le[io.sits  iiavc  been  found.  Tiie  peoUip;i- 
cal  formation  is  mostly  pjranito  and  piieiss,  whieli  rise  into  hip^li  and  rupfrecl  pealvs,  some  of 
whifh  attain  an  elevation  oY  8,500  feet  above  tlie  sea.  'I'iie  Middle  and  .South  Yubas,  with 
their  tributary  streams,  such  as  Canon  creek.  Pass  creek,  and  others,  lake  their  rise  in  these 
mountains,  amoufifst  which  are  immerous  lakes  from  20  to  400  acres  in  area.  The  Caiion 
Creek  lake,  sitmited  at  the  head  of  Canon  creek,  about  four  miles  west  of  the  summit,  is  the 
larjrest,  and  foruis  the  company's  principal  reservoir.  A  substantial  dam  Ibruied  of  blocks 
of  j;-raniie  has  been  erected  across  its  otulet.  The  transverse  width  at  bottom  is  120  feet,  its 
lieitrht  7(1  feet,  and  leng^th  from  baidc  to  bank  250  feet.  The  front  is  protected  with  two 
layers  of  2^-inch  lumber,  well  secured  to  the  face.  An  arched  shuec  is  constructed  throufj^h 
the  dahi,  by  which  the  ilow  of  water  is  regulated  from  the  interior.  When  full  of  water,  the 
firea  of  the  reservoir  is  500  acres,  the  average  dej^tli  of  water  42  feet,  and  it.s  contents 
1)35,000.000  cubic  feet  of  water. 

Sources  of  supply,  from  the  middle  of  April  to  the  middle  of  Auf^ust,  are  derived  from  the 
riountain  streams,  which  become  swollen  from  the  rapid  meltinf;  of  tlie  snow,  and  afford  a 
fotir  months'  plentiful  .supply.     After  that  date  recourse  is  had  to  the  reservoirs. 

MIXERS'   CITCII. 

Cc^t  of  purchases  of  ditches  and  water  rights $57,900 

Miners'  ditch  and  reservoirs  co-st 1  so,  (lOO 

2:17, 900 

r:VREK.\  LAKE  DITCH. 

Co«t  of  purchase  of  small  ditches,  water  rights,  <S:c 174,250 

Fureka  Lake  dam 35,  OOlJ 

Lake  Fiiucherio  dam 8,  000 

Smaller  dams '. 2, 000 

Magenta  and  Natioonl  aqueducts 23,  000 

Storage  rest  rvoirs 51, 000 

Iron  pipes  to  San  .Juan  12,  oOO 

Main  canal  and  tlunie 25(5,  OOO 

Saw-mill 7,000 

806, 150 
Management,  law  exj^enses,  &c.,  20  per  cent ]G1,230 

%u,  380 


The  following  is  a  list  of  the  storage  reservoirs  named  in  the  above  estimate,  with  their 
capacity  and  cost: 


Locality. 

No.  of 
reservoirs. 

Capacity 
in  inches. 

Cost. 

Eureka 

1 

1 
4 
4 
3 
1 
3 
2 

X 

1 

1 
2 

1 

2 

1 
2 

50 
2, 500 

500 
H0(.) 

1,000 
300 
500 

2,0(10 
250 
100 

4,5(10 

4,  000 
.500 
700 

3, 000 
2.50 
200 

$300 
1,000 

Snow  Point 

Orleans 

3,  000 
fi,  000 

7, 500 

Moore's 

Woolsey's 

Eelief  Hill 

1 , 5()0 

Bl  oonifield 

1  .500 

Lake  City 

5  000 

Kennebec 

1,500 

Grizzly  Hill 

1,000 

Columbia  Hill 

15,000 

Grizzlv  Hill 

10, 000 

Cherokee 

4,  000 

Lone  Ridge 

2, 500 

San  Juan 

10,  000 

I^leasant  Kidge 

1,000 

Mouteaum.a 

1,000 

33 

21,  150 

71,800 

192 


RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND   TERRITORIES 


The  average  annual  water  sales  of  tlie  Eureka  Lake  AVater  Company,  according  to  tho 
annexed  statements,  amount  to  S1H],3G9,  over  and  above  expenses  of  management,  repairs, 
&c.     Deducting  10  per  cent,  from  this  for  bad  debts  will  leave  a  net  income  of  $14.5,2:33. 

Some  idea  of  the  magnitude  with  which  mining  operations  are  carried  on  along  this  ridge 
may  be  inferred  from  the  fact  that  since  l^TjO  tlie  annual  (quantity  of  gold  transmitted  to  Saa 
Francisco  has  amounted  to  from  $l,r)0(),00()  to  .*-2,000,()00. 

So  great  has  been  the  quantity  of  ground  washed  away,  that  many  of  the  ravines  are  cov- 
ered with  a  depth  of  20  feet  and  upwards  of  tailings  from  the  sluices,  composed  of  sand  and 
gravel.  The  fall,  therefore  considered  necessary  for  the  sluices,  of  one  foot  in  .15,  can  only 
be  obtained  in  those  places  that  are  situated  above  the  rivers,  such  as  those  in  the  San  Juan 
district,  and  higher  up  the  ridge  at  Badger  Hill,  Grizzly  Hill,  Woolsey's,  Moore'ti,  and 
Orleans  Flat. 

In  order  to  obviate  this  difficulty  of  want  of  fall,  tunnels  are  being  constmcted  at  different 
points,  which  take  from  two  to  five  years  to  complete.  Some  of  those  I  visited  are  through 
granite  or  trap,  and  cost  at  the  rate  of  from  §20  to  $C0  per  running  foot.  They  are  six  to 
eight  feet  in  width,  and  seven  feet  in  height;  when  completed  a  flume  will  be  laid  through 
them  and  extended  a  long  distance  down  the  ravine.  All  the  tailings  with  which  a  ravine  is 
incumbered  will  be  carried  away  through  the  flume  by  the  current  of  water.  After  the  present 
year,  many  of  those  tunnels  now  being  constructed  will  be  finished,  when  numerous  com- 
panies will  be  enabled  to  work,  which  are  now  precluded  from  doing  so  on  account  of  iusuf- 
ticiency  of  fall  in  the  creeks. 

I  annex  a  detailed  statement  of  the  localities  STipplied  by  the  Eureka  Lake  Water  Com- 
pany, and  the  amounts  realized  during  one  week ;  it  is  a  fair  average  statement  of  the  weekly 
sales  during  the  year. 

Water  sales  of  the  Eureka  Lake  Water  Company  for  the  iccek  ending  JuhjTy,  1862. 

Lake  City,  Grizzly  Hill,  and  Kennebec $175  00 

Snow  Point G-3  16 

AA'oolscy's 407  0!) 

Moore's 243  84 

Orleans 1 R9  1 4 

Pleasant  Hill 32  50 

Cherokee Z'.S  02 

Bloomfieia.... 10  ."50 

San  Junn 1,3')5  07 

Cohimbia  Hill 8.')3  83 

Chimney  H ill 484  35 

RfcjliefHiU 212  ]7 

Kureka 61  5.) 

4, 189  77 


Abstract  of  monthly  reports  hy  secretary  of  the  Eureka  Lake  and  Yuha  Canal  Company. 


°  S 

^'   ^  x 


1866 — .Tannarj' 

February 

JIarcb 

April 

May 

Juno 

July 

August 

Se|itcmbcr 

October 

Novemhor 

Uocembcr 

]6fi7 — January 

February 

Jlarch 

April 

May 

Juno 

Jtily 

August 


$10, 
25, 
30, 
24, 
21, 
27, 
23, 
20, 
2(i, 
21, 
18, 
li). 


856  71 
740  i)7 
109  38 
496  69 
898  09 
5.37  58 
259  98 
7115  42 
873  18 
692  60 
028  62 
812  66 


$3. 142 
3, 107 
3,615 
3,479 
3,563 
3.  575 
3,366 
3,  4()2 
3, :«J8 
3,317 
3,  392 
3,  592 


?895  36 
976  71 
019  05 
855  27 
086  87 
416  20 
802  05 
740  31 
103  99 
966  90 
700  96 
059  87 


$5, 235  01 
12,242  11 
3,  065  76 
18,  946  37 
22,871  93 
20.  049  69 

29,  674  95 
30,361  94 
35,  582  36 
31,726  71 
33,  173  07 

30,  9.30  73 


}$I0, 


70,  897  82 


240,011  88 


40,954  56 


41,623  54 


17,615  69 
16,989  64 
20,  524  74 
23,  027  48 
19,475  72 
25,  353  35 
18,  138  69 
25,  114  14 


611  30 
995  83 
104  16 
791  20 
375  81 
944  15 
518  00 
935  76 


3,  633 
3,  187 
3,  1.55 
3,361 
3,  559 
3,  566 
3,515 
3,463 


387  04 
427  68 
338  93 
782  76 
04u  33 
276  63 
237  U 
374  10 


22,  705  36 
26,699  17 
30,119  75 
30,  356  03 
27,498  81 
29,  1 92  97 
31,813  66 
33,  992  t>4 


476  86 

474  41 
162  27 
247  73 
551  72 
128  63 
612  47 
581  01 
945  97 
366  73 
442  78 


158,  989  23 


13,112  87 
P,  9.36  81 
12,  Uifi  89 
17,647  4i 
15,  775  49 
17,  100  68 
8.  765  40 
17,093  16 


166,239  45 


27,  443  83  I     15,  864  60 


110,623  73 


"m 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  193 

Frkxcii  CoiiKAL. — Tlie  Xovadu  "Water  Company  ■u"as  oro-aiiizcd  and  incor- 
porated in  Now  York  in  November,  ISoS.  It  then  pnrcliased  tlic  Shady  Crock 
and  Crizzly  ditohes,  and  now  owns,  in  additicm  to  these  ditclics,  a  larii'<!  extent 
of  mininiT  o-ronnd.  The  Shady  Creek  ditch  was  located  in  Jannary,  ISol,  and 
the  Grizzly  ditch  in  IS-j2.  IJotli  were  constrncted  for  the  ])urpose  of  conveying' 
water  from  Shady  creek  (a  tiihntary  of  the  Ynba  river)  to  French  CoiTal. 

The  Shady  Creek  ditch,  the  only  one  in  present  repair  and  nso,  has  a  nmning 
capacity  of  about  2,500  inches,  miners  measure.  Its  Avidth  is  eight  feet  at  the 
to]i  and  six  feet  at  the  bottom,  and  its  depth  three  feet,  having  a  grade  of  about 
It  i'eet  per  mile.  Its  length  is  about  12  miles,  and  "with  the  exception  of  some 
4,000  feet  of  flaming  is  excavated  wholly  in  earth.  The  cost  of  construction  of 
ditches  and  reservoirs  owned  by  the  Nevada  Company  has  been  about  $150,000. 
They  jiass  throufifh  Birchvillc  mining  district,  but  at  present  only  supply  water 
to  the  French  Corral  .district.  Six  or  eight  sets  of  claims  in  this  district  besides 
the  claims  o\\Tied  wholly  or  in  part  by  the  Nevada  Company  are  supplied  from 
their  ditches. 

Another  ditch  from  Shady  creek  to  French  Corral,  built  in  1855,  at  a  cost  of 
some  850,000,  including  reservoirs,  having  a  capacity  of  about  500  inches,  is 
owned  by  the  Empire  Tunnel  Company  of  this  })Iaco.  The  principal  claims  in 
the  French  CoiTal  district  are  the  Kate  Hayes  Company,  Bird  &  Smith,  Black 
&  Brother,  Empire  Tunnel  Company,  Empire  Flat  Company,  Dockum  Company, 
French's,  Glaister's,  Burke  &  Company,  and  the  Nevada  Water  Company  claims. 

The  price  paid  for  water  is  15  cents  per  inch,  and  the  quantity  used  by  diilercnt 
companies  varies  from  200  to  1,000  inches  per  day. 

The  gold  range  of  this  district  is  a  deposit  of  washed  gravel  filling  a  well- 
defined  old  river  channel  to  the  average  dei)tli  of  about  150  feet,  varying  in 
width  from  1,000  to  3,000  feet.  This  deposit  is  continuous  from  French  Corral 
to  San  Juan,  a  distance  of  six  miles,  broken  only  by  ravines,  but  below  French 
Con-al  and  alcove  San  Juan  it  is  ctit  off  by  the  deep  canons  of  the  South  and 
Middle  Yuba' rivers.  This  deposit  is  composed  of  what  the  miners  call  blue  and 
red  dirt — the  blue  gravel  or  cement  underlj-ing  the  red  or  gray.  Both  strata  have 
until  recently  been  w'orked  by  blasting  with  powder  and  washing  by  the  hydraulic 
})rocess.  Hereafter  it  is  believed  that  the  blue  cement  will  be  crushed  with  greater 
profit,  besides  saving  a  larger  percentage  of  gold  lost  by  the  ordinary  w^ashing. 

The  Empire  Tunnel  Compan}^  have  built  and  are  running  very  successfully 
a  10-stamp  mill,  crushing  the  blue  cement.  The  American  Company,  at  Sebas- 
topol,  are  also  realizing  profits  from  their  eight-stamp  mill,  working  the  same 
buie  gravel. 

The  English  or  "Truckee  Ditch  Company,"  some  10  or  more  years  ago, 
expended  nearly  81,000,000  in  a  ditch  from  the  Middle  Yuba  to  the  mines  on 
the  dividing  ridge  between  the  Middle  and  North  Y^ubas.  The  enteiiirise  proved 
disastrous  for  the  reason  that  paying  hydraulic  mines  cotxld  not  be  found.  The 
gold  deposits  of  that  region  were  generally  found  in  a  thin  stratum  of  gravel 
lying  on  the  bed  rock,  while  the  mass  of  earth  above  contained  little  or  no  gold. 

Tlie  paying  lead  coitld  be  most  readily  worked  by  ''drifting  out,"  and  required 
but  a  small  amount  of  water  to  wash  it.  Under  such  circumstances  an  extensive 
and  expensive  ditch  like  the  Truckee  Company's  wotdd  not  pay,  and  has  fallen 
into  disuse.  Their  water  right  has  recently  been  pitrchascd  by  some  San  Fran- 
cisco capitalists. 

TuoLUMXE  DiTcn. — Most  of  the  ditch  water  used  in  Tuolumne  county  is 
supplied  by  the  Tuolumne  County  Water  Company,  which  takes  its  water  from 
the  Stanislaus  river  about  20  miles  in  a  direct  line  above  Columbia.  The  com- 
pany own  two  ditches  known  as  "  the  old"  and  ^'  the  new."  The  former  cost 
$550,000,  and  the  latter  81,000,000.  The  old  ditch  was  commenced  on  the  Ist 
July,  1851,  and  it  began  to  supply  water  in  May,  1852,  but  the  price  of  water, 
introduced  at  such  great  cost,  was  necessarily  liigh,  and  the  miners  formed  a 
13 


194  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

comLination  to  compel  a  reduction  of  prices  and  afterwards  to  construct  a  new 
ditcl).  The  ditcli  Avas  made,  but  in  a  very  expensive  manner,  and  when  com- 
pleted it  was  burdened  with  debt,  so  that  it  soon  fell  into  the  hands  of  those  who 
owned  the  old  ditch,  leaving  many  of  the  creditors  unpaid.  A  bitter  feeling 
ensued  and  many  threats  of  assassination  were  made,  and  the  ditch  and  flnmes 
were  maliciously  injured  in  numerous  places.  Although  the  new  ditch  was  pur- 
chased at  a  small  percentage  on  its  cost,  it  did  not  pay  much  profit.  Part  of  it 
was  built  on  the  side  of  a  mountain  which  is  swept  nearly  every  winter  by  snow 
avalanches,  and  the  repairs  were  very  expensive.  Forty  miles  of  the  ditch  near 
the  head  are  now  abandoned.  The  company  has  75  miles  of  main  ditch  and 
Inanches.  The  river  supplies  an  abundance  of  water  till  the  1st  July,  and  after 
that  time  the  reservoirs  are  drained  gradually.  One  of  them  covers  84  acres, 
and  another  is  a  mile  long,  three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide,  and  40  feet  deep.  The 
total  cajiacity  of  the  reservoirs  is  1,800  inches  for  four  months,  in  which  time 
they  are  exhausted,  so  that  there  is  usuall}^  a  month  or  two  at  the  end  of  the  dry 
season  when  the  company  cannot  supply  water.  The  ditch  has  a  grade  of  18 
feet  to  the  mile,  and  the  flume  is  seven  and  one-half  feet  Avide,  four  feet  deep, 
and  has  a  grade  of  16  feet  to  the  mile.  The  price  for  a  12-inch  stream  is  $3 
per  day;  of  15  inches  $3  50;  of  18  inches  $4;  of  21  inches  $4  50;  of  24 
inches  $5  ;  of  more  than  24  and  less  than  48,  20  cents  per  inch  ;  of  more  than 
48  inches  18  cents  per  inch.  The  capacity  of  the  flume  is  3,600  inches.  In 
many  places  flumes  were  constructed  where  it  would  have  been  much  cheaper  to 
have  had  iron  pipe,  and  this  is  being  substituted  now  as  the  flumes  give  way. 
Not  less  than  $100,000  might  have  been  saved  by  using  pipe  at  first.  The  com- 
pany supplies  Columbia,  Yankee  Hill,  Gold  Springs,  Mormon -Gulch,  Saw  Mill 
Flat,  Martinez,  Jamestown,  Montezuma,  Chinese  Camp,  and  their  vicinities.  The 
amount  paid  by  the  company  as  dividends  in  1866  was  $35,750. 

Phcexix  Ditch. — The  Phoenix  Ditch  Company  obtains  its  Avater  from  the 
Tuolumne  river  in  tAvo  ditches,  known  as  the  Phoenix  and  Hydraulic,  and  sup- 
plies Sugar  Pine,  Soulsbyville,  Sonora,  ShaAv's  Flat,  PoA^erty  Hill,  Algerine, 
Cherokee,  and  Somerville.  The  company  has  84  miles  of  ditching  and  16  miles 
of  flume.  Both  ditches  Avere  started  in  1850  and  supplied  water  in  small 
quantity  the  next  year,  but  the  Hydraulic  did  not  get  Avater  from  the  Tuolumne 
river  till  1853,  nor  the  Phoenix  till  1854.  The  highest  flume  is  65"  feet  high 
and  360  feet  long,  and  it  has  been  blown  down  once.  The  flume  at  ShaAv's 
Flat,  300  feet  high  and  600  feet  long,  has  been  blown  down  tAvice.  The  flume 
of  the  Phoenix  tine  is  five  feet  A\dde  by  two  and  one-half  deep ;  that  of  the 
Hydraulic  four  feet  Avide  by  two  deep.  There  are  tAvo  reservoirs  Avhich  hold  a 
supply  for  two  months  and  a  half.  The  price  for  a  15-inch  sluice  is  $2  per  day 
of  12  hours.  The  Phoenix  ditch  cost  $380,000,  and  the  Hydraulic  $500,000. 
Both  have  been  sold  twice  at  sherifls'  sale.  The  receipts  of  the  ditch  company 
Avere  $38,000  in  1800,  and  $22,000  in  1866,  and  the  annual  expenses  are  about 
$9,600.  There  are  nine  ditch  tenders  and  collectors,  Avho  are  paid  $70  and  $80 
per  month.  In  1855  the  price  of  Avater  Avas  $6  per  day  for  nine  inches.  The 
Avater  is  delivered  through  an  orifice  three  inches  high  and  under  a  pressure  of 
four  inches  over  the  orifice.  There  are  near  Cherokee  and  SomerA'ille  some  high 
gravel  hills,  Avhich  may  require  a  large  supply  of  Avater  Avhen  they  are  opened 
and  their  Avealth  demonstrated.  About  one-fourth  of  the  Avater  is  sold  to  China- 
men, and  one-twentieth  for  irrigation. 

The  Golden  Rock  ditch,  south  of  the  Tuolumne  river,  from  which  it  obtains 
its  Avater,  supplies  Gravel  Range,  Big  Humbug,  First  Garrote,  Second  Garrote, 
Deer  Flat,  Big  Oak  Flat,  jMoccasin  Creek,  Sjiring  Gulch,  Boneyard,  Penon 
Blanco,  and  Horseshoe  Bend.  This  ditch  cost  $300,000,  and  is  very  unprofitable. 
There  is  a  flume  1,300  feet  long,  and  part  of  it  is  256  feet  high,  supported  by 
wooden  towers.  The  main  ditch  is  38  miles  long.  The  pxice  is  $2  per  day  for 
a""  Btroam  of  20  inches. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS  195 

^Muephy'sDhtii. — Tlic  Murphy's  (litcli  was  roir.nieiiced  in  1851  and  finished 
in  18')G.  The  total  cost  was  $260,000,  of  wiiich  sum  $180,000  was  obtained 
by  the  sale  of  water.  Five  years  after  the  work  was  eomnienced  dividends  beq^au 
to  come  in,  and  twice  as  much  was  received  by  the  sharehohlers  as  they  liad  \nu(\ 
out  four  years  before.  In  186G  $10,000  were  paid  as  dividends,  and  the  Cala- 
veras ditch  was  Iwusfht  for  $20,000.  The  present  market  value  of  the  dit<!h  is 
probably  not  more  than  one-sixth  of  its  oricfinal  cost.  The  Caleveras  ditch 
obtains  its  water  fnun  the  Stanislaus  river,  and  supplies  Doui't'las  Flat,  Vallecito, 
French  Flat,  and  Jenny  Lind  and  Quail  Hill.  It  was  finished  in  1858,  and  cosi 
SI 0,000.  Connected  witli  this  ditch  is  the  Salt  Spring  reservoir,  which  covers 
2,000  acres  and  is  30  feet  deep,  and  is  the  largest  reservoir  in  the  foot  hills  of 
California. 

Mc^KELFMXE  Ditch. — The  Mokelumne  Hill  and  Campo  Seco  ditch  has  50 
miles  of  main  ditch-,  and  cost,  when  constructed,  $500,000.  The  present  assessed 
value  is  $25,000.  The  flume  is  40  inches  wide  and  20  deep,  and  has  a  grade 
of  13  feet  to  the  mile.  Origiiiallj'^  it  was  all  flume,  but  the  fluming  has  lieen 
replaced  by  ditching,  except  for  six  miles,  and  most  of  that  distance  will  be 
ditch.  The  water  is  obtained  from  the  south  fork  of  the  Mokelumne  river.  The 
places  supplied  are  Mokelumne  Hill,  Campo  Seco,  Chile  Camp,  Rich  Gulch, 
and  Comanche  Camp,  and  Cat  Camp  is  to  be  supplied  soon.  In  the  extension 
of  the  ditch  to  the  last-named  place  a  depression  5,000  feet  long  and  SO  feet 
deep  is  to  be  crossed  by  iron  pipe  two  feet  in  diameter,  with  30  feet  head.  It  is 
expected  that  the  pipe  will  carry  1,000  inches  of  water.  The  charge  per  inch 
is  25  cents  for  12  hours  to  placer  miners,  and  15  cents  per  inch  to  quartz  miners 
And  millers.     The  water  is  discharged  under  four  inches  of  pressure. 

The  Union  Water  Company's  ditch  is  35  miles  long  and  takes  water  from  the 
Stanislaus  river  to  supply  the  placers'  mining  district  between  that  river  and 
the  Calaveras,  an  area  of  20  miles  square.  There  are  reservoirs  large  enough 
to  hold  a  supply  of  600  inches  of  water  for  three  months. 

Amador  Ditch.— The  Amador  Canal  Company  has  two  ditches,  the  Amador 
and  the  Pioneer  ;  the  main  trunk  of  the  Amador  is  20  miles  long,  all  of  it  flume. 
The  water  is  obtained  from  the  Mokelumne  river.  The  original  length  was  31 
miles,  but  the  upper  part  was  so  much  injured  in  1862  that  11  miles  were  aban- 
doned and  W'ill  probal)ly  not  be  rebuilt,  or  at  least  there  is  no  thought  now  of 
rebuilding.  Ditch  might  be  substituted  for  flume  for  at  least  half  the  distance, 
and  the  substitution  is  to  be  commenced  soon,  since  portions  of  the  flume  w'ill  not 
last  long.  The  ditch  carries  400  inches  of  water  during  eight  or  nine  months 
of  the  year,  but  previous  to  1862  that  quantity  w-as  furnished  the  j-ear  round. 
There  are  parts  of  the  ditch  on  which  the  charge  for  water  is  10  cents  per  inch 
in  winter  and  15  in  summer,  and  on  the  other  parts  the  i)rice  is  16f  cents 
throughout  the  year.  The  gross  income  in  1866  was  $28,000  ;  and  the  ordinary 
expenses  $20,000 ;  and  the  extraordinary  improvements  $8,000,  leaving  nothing 
for  dividend. 

Tlu!  VOLCAXO  ditch  has  35  miles  of  main  trank,  and  obtains  its  Avater  from 
its  tril)utaries  of  the  Mokelumne  river.  It  Cannes  450  inches  of  water,  but  the 
supply  ceases  in  July.  The  price  for  w'ater  is  12|^  cents  per  inch  per  day.  The 
cost  of  the  ditch  was  $140,000.  The  gross  receipts  in  1866  were  $5,000,  and 
the  ordinaiy  expenses  $3,000. 

As  the  mines  at  Volcano  were  in  a  basin  to  which  there  was  no  sufficient  out- 
let, the  company  cut  a  channel  in  the  bed  rock  15  feet  deep  and  a  mile  and  a 
half  long,  at  a  cost  of  $80,000,  into  which  a  tail  sluice  was  put.  The  company 
charges  50  cents  per  day  for  the  privilege  of  running  a  sluice-head  into  the  drain, 
and  the  company  have,  besides,  all  the  gold  which  they  can  catch  in  it,  and  it 
amounts  to  about  $3,000  per  year,  leaving  $2,000  net. 

Eureka  Ditch,  (El  Dorado  County. )-j— The  Eureka  Canal  Company  owns 
two  ditches,  which  were  made  as  rivals  to  talte  water  from  the  north  fork  of  the 


.190  EESOUECES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

Cosumnes,  They  supply  Pleasant  Valley,  Diamond  Springs,  El  Dorado,  Mis- 
souri Flat,  LogtowTi,  Buckeye  Flat,  Shingle  Springs,  Clarksville,  Western  Dig- 
gings, and  the  divide  north  of  the  Cosumnes  to  within  12  miles  of  Sacramento 
city.  The  main  trunks  of  the  two  ditches  are  170  miles  long,  and  the  trenches, 
which  carry  not  less  than  100  inches  each,  are  ISO  miles  more ;  making  350 
miles  of  ditching  owned  by  the  company  and  tended  by  its  17  employes.  The 
length  of  small  ditches  made  by  the  miners  to  cany  the  water  from  the  company's 
lines  to  their  claims  is  not  less  than  450  miles.  The  original  cost  of  the  two 
ditches  and  their  branches  was  $700,000,  and  they  are  assessed  at  $30,000. 
There  are  16  miles  of  llinne  belonging  to  the  company,  and  there  is  one  reser- 
voir that  covers  160  acres.  Along  the  higher  lines  of  ditch  the  charge  for  water 
is  16  cents  per  inch  for  10  hours  for  mining,  and  on  the  lower  lines  from  10  to 
12  cents ;  but  farmers  pay  33  cents,  because  the  water  is  worked  up  and  lost  to 
the  company,  whereas  the  miners'  water  runs  down  into  the  lower  ditches,  and  is 
sold  n'om  them  again  perhaps  three  or  fom*  times  over.  This  company  sells  for 
an  inch  the  amount  of  water  that  escapes  through  an  orifice  three  inches  high, 
and  an  inch  wide  without  pressure. 

Indian  Diggings  Ditches. — Three  ditches  from  the  south  and  middle 
branches  of  the  middle  fork  of  the  American  river  to  supply  Indian  Diggings, 
Brownsville,  Fairplay,  Slug  Gulch,  and  Cedarville,  carrying  1,000  inches  in  all 
in  the  spring,  and  declining  to  150  inches  in  September,  One  of  these  ditches 
was  finished  in  ]  853,  and  the  other  in  1854  and  1855.  The  three  are  owned 
now  by  one  n)an.  The  original  cost  of  the  three  was  $125,000,  and  they  are 
now  assessed  at  $15,000.  There  is  a  mile  and  a  half  of  flume.  The  charge  is 
12^  cents  per  inch  for  12  hours,  and  18f  cents  for  24  hours.  The  inch  is  deliv- 
ered under  six  inches  of  pressure.  There  has  been  sale  for  all  the  water  pre- 
vious to  1867.  The  expenses  of  the  ditches  while  full  are  about  one-fom-th  of 
the  receipts. 

Natoena  Ditch. — The  Natorna  ditch  takes  its  water  from  the  south  fork  of 
the  American  river,  14  miles  above  Folsom,  and  supplies  Red  Banks,  Mormon 
Island,  Willow  Springs,  Rhodes  Diggings,  Texas  Hill,  Alder  Creek,  Rebel  Hill, 
Prairie  City,  and  Tates's  Flat,  which  together  contain  about  500  miners.  The 
ditch  was  constructed  in  1852  and  1853,  and  the  total  cost  of  the  main  trunk 
and  branches  has  been  $200,000.  The  present  assessed  value  is  $75,000.  The 
main  trunk  is  16  miles  long,  eight  feet  wide  on  top,'  five  feet  wide  at  the  bottom, 
and  three  deep.  There  is  also  one  mile  of  flume.  The  price  of  water  varies  at 
different  places,  but  the  average  is  20  cents  per  inch  per  day,  and  the  inch  is 
delivered  under  six  inches  of  pressure.  The  net  annual  profits  since  1800  have 
been  $30,800,  and  the  gross  receipts  were  twice  as  much.  Previous  to  1861  the 
gross  receipts  were  about  $75,000  annually. 

In  1857  the  company  purchased  9,000  acres  of  land,  most  of  it  auriferous 
ground  covered  by  their  ditches.  Having  thus  a  large  amount  of  land  which  it 
becomes  important  to  improve,  the  companj'  have  undertaken  to  build  up  a  largo 
manufacturing  town  at  Folscmi,  to  which  they  are  about  to  bring  250,000  inches 
of  water,  with  a  fall  of  80  feet.  A  canal  is  being  cut  a  mile  and  a  half  long, 
40  i'eet  ivide  at  the  top,  25  at  the  bottom,  and  seven  feet  deep,  with  a  grade  of 
ibur  feet  to  the  mile ;  and  a  dam  is  to  be  built  in  the  American  river,  of  granite 
laid  in  cement,  400  feet  long,  60  feet  wide,  and  57  feet  high.  The  whole  work 
will  be  finished  in  1868,  and  with  its  assistance  Folsom  will  become  the  most 
important  manufacturing  town  of  the  coast,  next  to  San  Francisco.  Water  power 
can  be  fumished  here  at  one-third  the  cost  of  steam,  and  no  other  town  on,  the 
State  coast  can  have  power  so  cheap  or  so  nmch  of  it,  or  so  near  San  Francisco. 

South  Fork  Ditch. — The  South  Fork  canal,  in  El  Dorado  county,  has  a 
main  tnmk  34  miles  long,  and  carries  600  inches  of  water,  which  is  taken  from 
i\w  south  fork  of  the  American  river  to  supply  Placerville  and  vicinity.  The 
original  cost  was  $500,000,  and  the  present  value  is  about  one-tenth  of  that  sum. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  197 

Tlio  total  lengtli  of  tho  main  ilnmC,  laterals,  and  Inandios  is  142j  miles.  Tin; 
lenii^th  of  the  ditch  from  tho  dam  on  tlie  sonth  fork  of  tho  American  river  to  the 
lesenoir  near  I'lacorville  is  24  miles;  from  the  reservoir  to  Coon  Hollow,  nine 
and  three-fomlh  miles,  and  fronr  lIan2:town  Creek  to  Buckeye  Flat  32  miles. 
Tho  Poverty  I'tiint  branch  is  four  and  one-eighth  miles  long;  tho  Indian  Hill 
liranch,  four  and  a  half;  the  Clay  Hill  branch,  two  ;  the  8hober  Hill  branch, 
live;  the  Hangtown  Hill  branch,  one  and  one-eighth;  the  Texas  Hill  branch, 
one  and  a  half.  The  Oold  Hill  canal  is  10  miles  long;  its  branches  and  later- 
als, 12.^;  tho  Weber  canal,  1.").]:;  the  It)wa  canal,  21,  and  tho  IJed  Hill  branch, 
one  and  a  half.  Tho  South  Fork  ditch  has  three  reservoirs :  the  Silver  lake, 
which  holds  170,000,000  cubic  feet;  tho  lied  lake,  which  holds  lir>,000,000 ; 
and  the  Willow  valley,  which  holds  50,000,000  cubic  feet.  The  Gold  Hill 
ditch  has  very  muddy  water,  and  sells  for  an  inch  the  water  which  runs  through 
an  oritico  two  inches  high  and  an  inch  wide  under  a  four-inch  pressure.  The 
South  Fork  canal  sells  for  an  inch  the  amount  that  escapes  from  a  hole  an  inch, 
square  under  six  inches  of  pressure.  Tho  charge  for  water  is  25  cents  ])or  inch 
for  mining  purjioses  at  all  seasons.  Water  for  irrigation  has  boon  supplied  in 
some  cases  for  87  per  acre  of  vineyard  in  its  second  year,  Avhen  the  vines  need 
water  onco  or  twice  a  week.  The  grade  of  tho  South  Fork  flume  is  four  and  a 
half  feet  to  the  mile.  In  one  place  iron  pipe  is  used  to  carry  50  inches  of  water 
across  a  depression  1,600  feet  long  and  190  foot  deep.  Tho  pipe  has  a  diameter 
of  10  inches,  and  the  head  of  tho  inverted  siphon  is  20  feet  higher  than  the  foot. 
The  iron  is  about  a  sixteenth  of  an  inch  thick.  The  proprietor,  Mr.  T.  B.  Hunt, 
expresses  the  intention  of  constmcting  a  ditch  to  supersede  the  present  flume,  to 
be  27  miles  longer,  to  have  a  grade  of  10  or  13  inches  per  mile,  to  carry  not 
less  than  5,000  inches  of  water,  and  to  supply''  many  places  above  the  level  of 
the  present  flume. 

Pilot  Creek  Ditch. — The  Pilot  Creek  ditch  takes  its  water  from -Pilot, 
Little  Silver,  and  Rock  creeks,  and  supplies  Georgetown,  Volcanoville,  Bottle 
Hill,  Fail-play,  Kelsey,  Johntown,  Spanish  Dry  Diggings,  Spanish  Flat,  Green- 
wood, Pilot  Hill,  and  Wild  Goose.  The  main  ditch  is  60  miles  long,  and  cost 
§180,000,  and  there  are  6o  miles  of  branches  which  cost  $320,000,  making  the 
total  cost  §500,000 ;  and  the  present  market  value  is  818,000.  The  ditch  is 
considered  one  of  the  best  in  the  State,  on  account  of  tho  small  proportion  of 
flume  and  the  solidity  of  the  banks,  which  are  seldom  broken.  The  largest 
piece  of  flume  is  300  feet  long  and  95  feet  high.  The  capacitj^  of  the  ditch  is 
1,500  inches,  but  it  is  seldom  full.  It  cames  1,000  inches  about  nine  months 
of  the  year,  and  300  inches  at  the  close  of  the  dry  season  for  throe  months.  The 
length  of  tl\e  main  ditch  terminating  at  Wild  Goose  flat  is  60  miles ;  tho  Bottle 
Hill  branch,  10  miles ;  the  Volcanoville  branch,  5  miles ;  the  Kelsoy's  branch, 
10  miles;  the  Fairplay  branch,  7  miles;  the  Spanish  Diy  Diggings  branch, 
three  miles ;  the  Rock  crook  feeder,  7  miles ;  the  Rock  Canon  feeder,  three 
miles,  and  the  El  Dorado  ditch  20  miles.  The  price  for  water  is  12i  cents  per 
inch. 

Michigan  Flat  Ditch. — Tho  Michigan  Flat  miners'  ditch,  on  the  north 
side  of  the  south  fork  of  the  American  river,  was  commenced  in  1858  and  com- 
pleted in  1800,  at  a  cost  of  $65,000.  It  is  now  assessed  at  83,000,  but  since 
.lanuary,  1865,  tho  expenses  have  boon  greater  than  the  receipts  by  $3,019. 
From  July,  1862,  till  January,  1865,  the  net  profit  was  813,673.  ]\Iuch  of  the 
flume  was  washed  away  last  winter.  The  water  is  sold  at  20  cents  per  inch  for 
12  hours  to  placer  miners ;  at  20  cents  per  inch  to  quartz  miners  for  24  hours ; 
and  to  farmers  at  810  per  aero  for  the  season,  on  an  average.  1'he  amount 
received  in  a  year  for  in-igation  water  is  81,200. 

CoLOMA  Ditches. — Two  companies  supply  Coloma  on  the  south  side  of  the 
£;outh  fork  of  the  American  river,  with  ditches'  which  caiTy  about  500  inches  of 
water  and  are  13  miles  long.     They  supply  Coloma  and  Uniontown,  charge  the 


198  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

same  rates  as  the  Michigan  Flat  miners'  ditch,  and  sell  about  one-third  of  their 
water  for  inigation. 

Bear  Riyer  Ditch. — The  Bear  river  and  Auburn  Water  and  Mining  Com 
pany  has  75  miles  of  main  trunk  and  250  miles  of  branches,  constructed  at  a 
cost' of  $1,000,000,  and  now  assessed  at  $25,000.  In  1863  the  receipts  were 
S90,000;  in  1S64,  $75,000;  in  1865,  $55,000 ;  and  in  1866,  $40,000.  The 
ditcli  takes  its  water  from  Bear  river,  and  supplies  Auburn,  Illinoistown,  New 
Castle,  Pine  Grove,  Virginiatown,  Clover  Valley,  Antelope  Kavine,  Secret  Ravine, 
Miners'  Ravine,  Mississippi  Bar,  Rattlesnake  Bar,  Horseshoe  Bar,  Doten's  Bar, 
Rose  Flat,  Millertown,  Doty's  Ravine,  Doty's  Flat,  and  Whiskey  Diggings — ^in 
fact,  the  whole  country  between  the  American  river  and  Bear  river,  extending  25 
miles  from  north  to  south,  and  as  many  more  from  east  to  west.  It  is  estimated 
that  $50,000,000  have  been  washed  out  by  means  of  the  water  of  this  ditch,  and 
could  not  have  been  obtained  without  it.  The  Bear  River  ditch  carries  3,000 
inches  when  full,  and  the  Gold  Hill  ditch  1,500 ;  but  in  September  the  two  do 
not  cany  more  than  2,000  inches.  The  Bear  River  ditch  had  13  miles  of  flume 
on  the  line  when  first  made,  but  since  then  ditch  has  been  substituted  for  all  save 
half  a  mile.  In  one  place  there  was  a  flume  139  feet  high  and  900  feet  long, 
erected  at  a  cost  of  $22,000,  and  ditch  has  been  substituted  for  it.  Tins  com- 
pany has  been  notable  for  its  litigation,  in  which  it  has  expended  $250,000,  and 
some  of  the  judgments  rendered  against  it  have  been  notorious  for  their  injustice. 
Michigan  Bluff  Ditch. — The  El  Dorado  Water  Company  obtains  its  water 
from  El  Dorado  canon,  and  supplies  Michigan  BluiF  and  vicinity.  The  main 
ditch  is  20  miles  long,  and  the  total  length  of  ditch  and  branches  35  miles.  The 
amount  of  water  tanied  is  400  inches  during  the  rainy  season,  but  the  ditch  is 
dry  after  the  middle  of  July.  The  ditch  was  commenced  in  1853  and  finished 
in  1855,  at  a  cost  of  $100,000.  It  is  now  assessed  at  $8,000.  In  the  spring 
the  demand  for  the  water  is  not  equal  to  the  supply.  The  price  is  15  cents  per 
inch,  delivered  under  a  six-inch  pressure. 

Dutch  Flat  Ditch. — The  Dutch  Flat  Ditch  Water  Company's  ditch  has 
a  capacity  of  3,000  inches,  takes  its  water  from  the  north  fork  of  the  American 
river  and  from  Little  Bear  river,  and  supplies  Dutch  Flat,  Gold  Run,  Nary  Red, 
and  Lost  Camp,  and  formerly  it  supplied  Blue  Bluff.  The  length  of  the  ditch 
and  branches  is  60  miles,  the  original  cost  $100,000,  and  the  present  assessed 
value  $40,000.  For  three  months  4,000  inches  are  sold  per  day;  but  for  the 
last  four  months  of  the  dry  season  the  amount  is  nojt  more  than  400  inches.  The 
v/ater  is  sold  under  six  inches  of  pressure,  at  12^  cents  per  inch.  The  Central 
Pacific  railroad  rans  for  portion  of  its  route  very  near  the  ditch,  and  has  done 
very  serious  damage  to  it.  The  direct  loss  so  far  has  been  not  less  than  $60,000. 
The  railroad  has  become  owner  of  the  ditch  itself,  where  it  crosses  the  sections 
belonging  to  the  road ;  but  has  not  charged  the  water  company  anything  for  the 
privilege  of  using  the  land.  But  in  consequence  of  the  near  proximity  of  the 
railroad  cutting  and  embankment  the  ditch  was  ruined  for  about  a  mile  and  a 
half,  and  it  was  necessary  to  erect  3,000  feet  of  flume,  and  to  lay  down  3,500  feet 
of  31-inch  iron  pipe,  and  837  feet  of  32-inch  pipe.  The  ditch  began  to  supply 
water  in  1851. 

South  Yuba  Ditch. — The  South  Yuba  Canal  Company  takes  water  from 
the  South  Yuba,  Deer  creek,  Rock  creek,  IMeadow  lake,  and  other  lakes  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Meadow  lake,  and  supplies  Nevada,  Chalk  Bluff",  You  Bet, 
Omega,  Alpha,  Blue  Tent,  Quaker  Hill,  Scotch  Flat,  and  Grass  Valley,  iu 
Nevada  county,  and  Dutch  Flat  and  Gold  Run,  in  Placer  county.  The  company 
owns  s(!veral  ditches,  which  measure  in  all  275  miles  in  length,  and  cost 
$1,000,000.  Bean's  History  and  Directory  of  Nevada  County  says  f  "In  12 
years  tlic  expense  account  of  the  company  reaches  $1,130,000,  and  its  receipts 
$1,400,000."  A  dam  42  feet  high  and  1,1*50  feet  long  was  built  across  the  outlet 
of  Meadow  lake,  which  when  full  is  a  mile  and  a  quarter  long  and  half  a  mile  wide. 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  199 

There  is  a  timncl  3,800  feet  long,  cut  at  a  cost  of  $112,000  through  a  cliviile  be- 
tween the  South  Yuba  and  Deer  creek.    The  company  control  about  12,000  inches. 

The  South  Yuba  ditch,  in  Placer  county,  is  2G  juiles  long,  beginning  at  tlio 
lower  eiul  oi  Bear  valley,  and  supplying  Gold  Run,  India  llill,  Canon  crock, 
and  Nary  Red.  The  ditch  was  completed  in  1SG5,  and  it  runs  2,500  inches. 
There  is  usually  demand  for  all  the  water.  The  assessed  value  is  $20,000.  The 
grade  of  the  ditch  is  13  feet  to  the  mile.  The  largest  flume  is  48  feet  high,  aiul 
100  feet  long.  The  head  of  the  ditch  is  so  elevated  that  the  water  is  sometimes 
full  of  snow,  and  is  uutit  for  hvdraulic  washing  or  for  any  other  kind  of  mining. 
The  cost  of  the  ditch  was  $108,000. 

Truckee  DiTcn. — The  Tnickee  ditch,  to  supply  ]\Iinnesota  and  other  points 
in  the  vicinity  on  the  Blue  lead,  near  the  southern  line  of  Sierra  county,  was 
constructed  in  1858,  and  was  abandoned  and  went  to  ruin  in  1865.  It  is 
said  the  cost  of  the  ditch  was  $1,000,000.  As  the  diggings  grew  poor,  the  ditch 
ceased  to  pay  for  the  expense  of  repairs.  There  were  13  miles  of  flume,  eight 
feet  wide  and  foiu:  feet  deep,  hung  on  the  side  of  a  steep  canon.  An  artificial 
lake  was  made  for  a  reservoir.     The  capacity  of  the  ditch  was  3,000  inches. 

Sears's  Ditch. — Sears's  Union  Ditch  is,  with  its  branches,  18  miles  long, 
and  supplies  Howland  Flat,  Pine  Grove,  Potosi,  St.  Louis,  and  Cedar  Grove.  It 
can-ies  2,000  inches  for  four  months  in  the  wet  season,  and  al)0ut  200  inches  in 
October.  There  are  two  miles  of  flaming.  An  extension  of  the  ditches  has  been 
commenced,  to  be  20  miles  long,  and  to  cost  $50,000.  The  charge  is  30  cents 
per  inch  for  24  hours  for  piping  companies,  and  50  cents  for  drifting  companies. 
The  water  is  sold  under  a  pressure  of  10  inches,  measured  from  the  middle  of 
the  orifice.  There  is  a  demand  for  all  the  water,  except  in  the  spring.  The 
extension  is  to  supply  Scales's  Diggings  and  Poverty  Hill.  At  the  latter  point 
the  company  is  also  cutting  a  bed  rock  tunnel  six  feet  high,  six  feet  wide,  and 
500  feet  long  to  drain  a  basin  nearly  a  mile  square  of  rich  ground.  The  tunnel 
is  to  be  finished  next  year. 

Nevada  Reservoir  Ditch. — The  Nevada  Reservoir  Ditch  Company  takes 
1,000  inches  of  water  from  Wolf  creek,  and  supplies  Sucker  Flat  and  Mooncy 
Flat.  The  main  ditch  is  28  miles  long,  and  in  that  distance  there  are  not  more 
than  600  feet  of  flume,  the  highest  12  feet.  The  ditch  was  commenced  in  1857, 
and  finished  in  1860,  at  a  cost  of  $1 16,000.  The  company  does  not  sell  any  water, 
but  uses  it  all  on  Sucker  Flat,  in  its  own  claims.  There  has  been  no  washing 
at  Mooney  Flat  for  two  years. 

Excelsior  Ditch. — The  Excelsior  Canal  Company  owns  the  Excelsior,  the 
Bovyer,  the  Tunnel,  and  the  Onsley  Bar  ditches.  The  first  named  takes  1,500 
inches  from  the  South  Yuba.  It  was  commenced  in  1854,  and  finished  in  1858. 
The  supply  is  constant,  and  the  length  is  28  miles.  The  Bovyer  is  20  miles 
long,  and  takes  2,000  inches  from  Deer  creek,  opposite  Rough  and  Ready;  but 
the  supply  fails  in  the  summer.  The  work  was  commenced  in  1858,  and  finished 
in  1859.  The  Tunnel  ditch,  commenced  in  1851,  and  finished  in  1852,  is  20 
miles  long,  and  takes  1,000  inches  from  Deer  creek.  It  fails  in  the  summer. 
The  Ousrey  Bar  ditch  is  10  miles  long,  and  starts  at  Smartsville,  where  it  is  fed 
with  800  inches  of  fi'csh  water  from  other  ditches.  It  was  commenced  in  1852, 
and  finished  in  1853.  On  the  Excelsior  ditch  there  are  five  miles  of  low  flume, 
and  half  a  mile  of  40-inch  iron  pipe,  a  mile  of  20-inch  pipe,  and  half  a  mile  of 
38^inch  pipe.  The  40-inch  pipe  crosses  a  depression  150  feet  deep,  and  with  a 
head  of  32  feet,  can-ies  2,500  inches  of  water.  The  original  cost  of  the  four 
ditc;hes  was  $1,000,000.  The  water  is  discharged  under  10  inches  of  pressure, 
measured  from  the  centre  of.  the  orifice.  The  price  is  20  cents  per  inch  for  less 
than  100  inches;  15  cents  per  inch  for  more,  and  for  irrigation  there  is  no  fixed 
price;  but  a  iield  of  10  or  15  acres  pays  $50  for  a  season.  The  amount  of  water 
is  about  5,000  inches  for  eight  months,  3,500  for  two  months,  and  2,500  for  the 
last  two  months  before  the  rains  come. 


200 


EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND   TERRITORIES 


FoEBESTOWN  DiTCH. — The  Soutli  Feather  Water  Company  gets  water  from  the 
south  forli  of  Feather  river,  and  supplies  Forbestown,  Brownsville,  Hansonville, 
E  vansvillc,  AVj^andotte,  Bangor,  and  Brown's  valley,  and,  in  fact,  the  entire  divide 
between  the  South  Feather  and  the  North  Yuba.  The  main  ditch  is  30  miles  long, 
and  the  branches  30  miles  more.'  The  work  was  commenced  in  1855,  and  finished 
in  1857.  There  is  one  mile  of  flurne  on  the  main  ditch.  The  highest  part  is 
GO  feet  high,  but  very  little  of  that.  The  original  cost  of  the  ditch  was  $'300,000, 
and  its  present  assessed  value  is  $25,000.  The  ordiuaiy  charge  per  inch  for  24 
hours  is  30  cents,  and  for  12  hours  20  cents;  but  there  are  places  where  the  water, 
after  being  sold,  can  be  picked  up  and  sold  again,  and  there  the  pnce  is  10  cents 
for  12  lioiu'S.  It  is  probable  that  a  branch  will  be  constructed  to  Indiana  Ranch 
and  On.'gon  Hill,  at  which  latter  place  there  is  a  large  body  of  rich  ground. 

Oroville  Ditcu. — The  Oroville  ditch  has  a  main  trunk  22  miles  long,  and 
was  finished  in  1856.  The  original  cost  was  $250,000,  and  the  present  assessed 
value  is  $20,000.  The  capacity  is  800  inches,  and  the  supply  exceeds  the  demand. 
The  price  is  50  cents  per  inch  for  drift  claims,  10  cents  for  hydraulic  and  sluice 
claims,  and  $1  25  per  acre  per  week  for  imgation. 

Table  of  Caitals  and  Water  Ditches. — The  following  complete  table 
of  all  the  canals  and  water  ditches  for  mining  pur}:)Oses  in  the  State  is  taken  from 
Langley's  Pacific  Coast  Directory,  a  valuable  work  published  biennially  in  San 
Francisco.  As  many  of  these  properties  have  been  consolidated  or  changed  hands 
since  the  table  was  prepared,  the  names  of  the  owners  are  omitted.  Mr.  Langley 
says : 

There  are  5,328  miles  of  artificial  water  courses,  for  mining  purposes,  constructed  in  this 
State,  at  a  cost  of  $15,575,400.  In  addition  to  the  length  here  stated,  there  are  numerous 
subsidiary  branches,  the  aggregate  length  of  which  is  estimated  at  over  800  miles,  and  seve- 
ral hundred  miles  of  new  ditches  in  the  course  of  construction. 

In  addition  to  those  enumerated  above,  there  are  numerous  enterprises  organized  to  furnish 
water  for  municipal  and  agricultural  purposes.  Twenty-seven  cities  and  towns  in  the  inte- 
rior are  thus  supplied,  and  the  capital  employed  amounts  to  several  millions  of  dollars.  The 
Spring  Valley  Water  Works,  of  San  Francisco,  is  an  extensive  and  costly  undertaking,  with 
a  capital  of  $0,000,000.  The  county  of  Los  Angeles  has  nearly  300  miles  of  ditches,  and 
extensive  works  for  the  supply  of  water  have  been  completed  iu  San  Bernardino,  Yolo,  and 
several  other  agricultural  counties  of  the  State. 

Table  of  canals  and  icatcr  ditches  for  mining  puriwses  in  the  State,  tvith  the  loca- 
tion, source  of  water,  length,  cost,  &c.,  of  each. 


Name  of  ditch. 


Source  of  water. 


S    fcJD 


Cost. 


AMADOR  COUNTY. 


Amador 

Amador  Co.  Canal 

Boyle 

Buckeye 

Buena  Vista 

Butte  Canal 

Cosumiies  W^ater  Co. 

Dry  Creek 

Indian  Gulcli 

Indian  Gulch 

Kellum  Ditches  (3) .. 

Laucha  Plana 

Lorces 

Meeks 

Mile  Gulch 

Open  Cut  Flume 

Pardees  

Purinton's 


Sutter  creek 

Mokelumne  river,  north  fork. 


Sutter  creek,  north  fork 

Sutter  creek,  north  fork 

Mukeiunme  river,  north  fork. 
Cosumnes  river,  south  fork  .. 

Dry  creek 

Jackson  creek,  middle  fork  .. 

Kancheria  creek 

Jackson  creek ,  middle,  fork . . . 
Jackson  creek,  middle  fork . . . 
Rancheria  creek,  south  fork.. 

J acksou  creek,  south  fork 

Rancheria  creek 

Sutter  creek 

Jackson  creek, south  fork  ... 
Sutter  creek,  middle  fork...- 


13 

66 


15 
50 
22 

4 
10 

3 
22 
30 

5 

2 

4 

U 


25 


$20, 000 

400, 000 

3,500 

3, 000 

18,000 
125,000 

40, 000 
6,000 

10,000 
2, 000 

22, 000 

30, 000 
2, 000 
1,500 
2, 000 

90, 000 


15,000 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 
Talk  of  canals  and  ivafcr  ditches,  dx. — Continued. 


201 


Name  of  ditch. 


AMADOR  COUNTY — Contir.ucd. 


Pbelps&Co 

Pifreou  Creek 

Potosi 

Proctor,  Walker  &  Co.'s  .. 

Keichling  &  Alt  (-2) 

Eichtuiyer 

Eich  &  Co.'s 

Eltter 

Sutter  Creek  and  Volcano. 
Volcano 


Source  of  water. 


BUTTE  COUNTY. 


Abbott  &  Co  .  - 

Butte  Creek 

Cherokee  Co... 

Deweys 

Forbestown 

Hntchinj^s 

Little  Biitte 

Oregon  Gulch... 

Eock  Creek 

Spring  Valley... 
Table  Mountain 
Williams 


CALAVERAS    COUNTY. 


Calaveras  County  Ditch  Co 

Campo  Seco  «fc  Mok.  Hill  Canal  Co 

Clark  &  Co.'s 

Conrad's 

Fisher's 

Fisher's 

Harris 

Kadish 


Dry  creek 

Cosumncs  river,  south  fork... 

Diy  creek 

Jackson  creek 

Sutter  creek,  south  fork 

Dry  creek 

\V\g  Bar  canon 

Co.sumnes  river 

Sutter  creek 

Mokelumue  river,  tributaries . 


Butte  creek 

Table  mountain 

Feather  river,  west  branch 
South  Feather  river 


Butte  creek 

Orefjon  gulch  ... 

Eock  creek 

Spring  valley  ... 
Table  mountain. 


Old  Gulch 

Piilsbury's 

Pope 

San  Antonio 

Table  Mountain. 

Union 

Union  Water  Co 


DEL  NORTE  COUNTY. 


Bunker  Hill 

Cox  &  Frazier 

Curley  Jack 

Grider's 

Independence  

Indian  Flat 

Lone  Pine 

McLaughlia 

Moore's 

Patrick's 

Quartz  Gulch 

Stevens  W.  M.  &M.  Co. 
Wingato  Bar 


Stanislaus  river 

Mokelumne  river 

Mokelumne,  south  fork 

Mokelumne,  forks 

Mokelumne,  middle  fork 

Mokelumne,  north  fork 

Mokelumne,  middle  fork 

Mokelumne,  middle  fork 

O'Niel's  creek 

Lincoln  Fork,  Mokelumne  river. 

Willow  creek . 

San  Antonio  creek 

San  Antonio  creek 

Murray  creek 

Stanislaus,  north  fork 


G 
7 
5 

14 
8 

15 
5 

25 
7 

43 


n 

10 
10 

11 


Independence  creek 

Myer's  creek 

Grider  creek 

Grider  creek 

Independence  creek 

Myer's  creek 

Indian  creek 

Ruxton's  creek 

Buzzard  Hill  creek 

Buzzard  Hill  creek 

Quartz  gulch 

Coon  creek  and  Craig's  creek. 
Oak  Flat  creek 


2 
14 
3 
3 
4 
4 
2 


36 
36 
25 

8 
15 
20 

7 
12 
10 
12 

7 
15 
28 
10 
50 


n 

7 
] 


Cost. 


$6, 000 

8,000 

2, 5(10 

1(5,000 

10,000 

10,000 

4,000 

150, 000 

18,000 

140, 000 


700 

10,000 

5,000 

20, 000 


1,000 
8, 000 
3,000 
1,200 
4,000 
6, 000 
2,000 


150, 000 

"so,"  000 
20,  000 
15,000 
20, 000 
10, 000 
11,000 
15, 000 
10,000 
8,000 
15,000 
40, 000 
10, 000 

350, 000 


18, 000 
1,000 
3,  000 
1,500 
4,000 
3,500 
8,  000 

800 
1,000 
2,000 

400 

15,000 

2,  OuO 


202  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

Table  of  canals  and  water  ditches,  dtc. — Continued. 


Name  of  ditch. 


Source  of  water. 


S- 


Cost. 


EL  DORADO  COUNTY. 


Brownsville 

Cataract 

Clay  Hill 

Eaojle 

El  Dorado  &.  Tunnel  Hill.... 

Eureka  Canal  Co 

Foster 

Gold  Hill 

Granite  Creek 

Iowa 

Italiau 

Jones's  Hill 

Michigan  Bar 

Montezuma 

Parker 

Pilot  Creek " 

Mull's  (3) 

Rock  Creek  &  Michigan  Flat. 

Rossiugton 

Roush  &  Simpus 

Shanghae 

Shober  

South  Fork  Canal 

Texas 

Webber 


INYO  COUNTY. 


San  Carlos. 


KI-AMATH  COUNTY. 


Camp  Creek 

Cecilville 

Nordheimer  Creek 

Petersburg 

Sawyer's  Bar 

Sundry  other  ditches. 


LASSEN  COUNTY. 


Adams 

Adams  &l  Batchelder 

Emerson 

Susanville 


MARIPOSA  COUNTY. 


Mortons 

Snow  Creek. 


MONO  COUNTY. 


Mono 


NEVADA  COUNTY. 


Buckman  &  Currans. 

E.  Williams 

Empire  Co.'s 


Cosumnes  river,  south  fork 

Cosumnes  river,  south  fork 

Hangtown  creek 

Cosumnes  river 

American  river,  south  fork 

Cosumnes  river,  north  fork 

Hangtown  creek 

Hangtown  creek 

American  river,  south  fork 

Iowa  and  Brush  canons 

Chunk  canou 

Otter  creek 

Cosumnes  .river,  middle  fork 

Hangtown  creek 

Webber  creek 

Pilot  and  Rock  creek 

Hangtown  creek 

Am.  river  S.  F.,  and  Rock  creek. 
Webber  creek  and  Chunk  cafion  . 

Caiion  creek 

Cosumnes  river,  middle  fork 

Big  canon  

American  river,  south  fork 

Hangtown  creek 

Chunk  caiion 


Owen's  river. 


Camp  creek 

Salmon  river, east  fork.. 

Nordheimer's  creek 

Salmon  river,  south  fork. 
Salmon  river,  north  fork . 


Susan  river  .. 
Susan  river  . . 
Willow  creek . 
Piute  creek  . . 


Maxwell's  creek. 
Snow  creek 


Virginia  creek. 


Steep  Hollow  creek. 

do 

Shady  creek 


8 
6 
2 
8 
10 
450 
2 

J2 

3 

21 

3 

15 

20 

10 

10 

150 

13 


10 
10 
]6 
5 
334 

13i 


15 


1 

7i 
2 
5 
3 

r3 


4 

8 


15 

10 


20 


13 
16 
13 


$15,000 

10,000 

500 

500 

15,000 

500, 000 

1,200 

12,000 

9,000 

20,  000 

3,000 

10,000 

60, 000 

6, 000 

30, 000 

300, 000 

4,000 

150,000 

30,  000 

6, 000 

12, 000 

5.000 

300, 000 

300 

16, OUO 


30,000 


2, 000 

7,500 
2, 600 
7,000 
5,000 


7,000 

5, 000 

12, 000 

2,000 


10, 000 
800 


r5, 000 


20, 000 
40, 000 
50, 000 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 
Table  of  canals  and  water  ditches,  &c. — Continued. 


203 


Name  of  ditch. 


NEVADA  COUNTY — Continued. 


Eureka  Water  Co 

Excelsior  Canal  Co... 

Gardner's 

Nevada  Water  Co 

Rcmiugtou  Hill 

Sargent  Sc  Jacob's 

South  Yuba  Canal  Co. 

Stehr's 

Union 


PLACER  COUNTY. 

American  River  W.  &  M.  Co. 

^uburn  &  Bear  River 

Bartlett  &  Thomas 

Byrd's  Valley 

Dutch  Flat  Water  Co 


El  Dorado  Water  Co... 
Gold  Hill  and  branches. 

Grizzly , 

Hall  &  Hubbard's 

Hancock 

Hills 

Independent 

Indian 

Indiana  Water  Co 

Jamison 

McKee 

McKinstry 

Miner's 

Mountain 

North  Shirt  Tail 

Secret  Canon 

South  Yuba 

Todd's  Valley 

Union 

Union,  Yankee  Jim 

Volcano 


PLUMAS  COUNTY. 


Burton  Gulch 

Cascade  Water  Co 

Feather  River  and  Warren  Hill. 

Grub  Flat 

Humbug 

Hungarian  Hill 

Indian  Bar 

Mosquito 

Mount  Pleasant 

Nelson  Point 

Pioneer 

Phimas 

Richmond  Hill 

Saw  Mill  &  Taylor  Hill 

Spanish  Ranch 

Spring  Garden 

Twelve-Mile  Bar 

Do 

Do 

Do 


Source  of  water. 


Middle  and  South  Yuba  rivers 

South  Yuba  and  Deer  creek 

Bear  river 

Shady  creek 

Steep  Hollow  creek 

Greenhorn  creek 

South  Yuba  river 

Greenhorn  creek 

do 


American  river 

Bear  river 

....do 

Volcano  canon 

American  river,  north  fork,   and 
Little  Bear  river. 

El  Dorado  canon 

Bear  river 

Shirt  Tail  caiion 

Bear  river 

Volcano  caiion 

Indian  caiion 

Volcano  caiion 

Indian  canon 

Caiion  creek 

Indian  caiion 

Shirt  Tail  caiion 

Owl  creek 

Shirt  Tail  canon,  southfork 

Deep  caiion 

Shirt  Tail  canon 

Secret  canon 

South  Yuba  river 

Volcano  caiion 

Shirt  Tail  canon 

do 

Volcano  canon 


Burton  gulch 

South  Feather  river 

do 

Mead  Valley  creek 

Butte  creek 

Slate  creek 

Chipp's  creek 

Mosquito  creek 

Silver  lake 

Nelson  creek 

Feather  river,  south  fork. 

Silver  lake 

Onion  Valley  creek 

Mill  creek 

Spanish  creek 

Spring  Garden  creek 

Rush  creek 

do 

do 

do 


150 
G9 
22 
13 
16 
5G 

200 


22 

90 

220 

3 

60 

31 
40 

6i 
13 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 

2 
15 
25 
20 

7 
12 
16 
25 
12 

8 
12 
10 


4 

15 

14 

4 

4 

2 

3 

3 

10 

6 

10 

8 

4 

5 

30 

4 

4 

2 

2 

2 


Cost. 


$30, 000 
40, 000 
40, 000 
30, 500 
1, 500, 000 
4,500 
12, 000 


100,000 

650, 000 

65, 000 

2, 000 

100, 000 

100, 000 

110,000 

5,000 

50, 000 

15,000 

10, 000 

10, 000 

10, 000 

10, 000 

4,000 

23, 000 

9,000 

35, 000 

15, 000 

25, 000 

100, 000 

50, 000 

32, 000 

9,000 

128, 000 
15, 000 


5,000 

30, 000 

20, 000 

5,000 

6,000 

2,000 

3,000 

4,000 

30, 000 

30, 000 

10,000 

25, 000 

12, 000 

15,000 

15,000 

4,000 

8,000 

1,500 

1.000 

2.550 


,  r**- 1 


204  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

Table  of  canals  and  water  ditches,  dx. — Continued. 


Name  of  ditch. 


SACRAMENTO   COUNTY. 

American  River  W.  &  M.  Co 

Deer  Creek  W.  &  M.  Co 

Natoma  W.  &  M.  Co 

Sacramento  &  Amador  Canal  Co. .. 

SHASTA  COUNTY. 


Arbuckle 

Bald  Hill 

Cedar  Flat.... 
Clear  Creek... 
Cottonwood... 

Davis 

Do 

Eagle 

Know  Mucket. 

Prairie 

Quartz  Hill... 

Sacramento 

Spring  Creek.. 

Toson 

Watson 


SIERRA  COUNTY. 


American 

Arnott , 

Council  Hill 

Cox  Bar , 

Depot 

Feather  River 

Fiddle  Creek 

Fisk 

Goodyear's  Bar 

Grass  Flat 

Green  &  Purdy 

Grizzly  Hill 

Hosier .■ 

Humbug 

Indian  Hill 

Irish 

Jim  Crow 

Kanaka 

Kimball 

Rock  Creek 

Said  «fe  Reese 

Sailor 

Sayer's  Union  (4) 

Slate  Creek  &  Gibsonville. 

Snow  Creek 

Truckee  

Waukegan 


SISKIYOU  COUNTY. 


Altona,  Mugginsville . 

Altona,  Oro  Fino 

Barker,  Oro  Fino 

Barkhouse 

Brown 


Source  of  water. 


American  river. 
Cosumnes  river. 
American  river. 
Cosumnes  river. 


Cottonwood,  middle  fork. 

Cottonwood  creek 

Whiskey  creek 

Clear  creek 

Cottonwood  creek 

Clear  creek 

do , 

Eagle 

Clear  creek 

Cottonwood,  north  fork.. . 

Churn  creek 

Sacramento'  creek 

Spring  creek 

Clear  creek 

Jerusalem 


Little  Grizzly  creek 

Fiddle  creek 

Rock  creek 

Yuba  river 

Indian  creek 

Feather  river,  south  branch . 

Fiddle  creek 

Goodyear's  creek 

Yuba  river 

Grass  flat. 

Little  Grizzly  canon 

Cherokee  creek 

Cannon  creek 

Humbug  caiion 

do 

Yuba  river 

Jim  Crow  canon 

Ladies' canon 

Bunker  Hill 

Rock  creek 

Sardine  lake 

Shower  branch 

Slate  creek  and  tributaries.. 
Slate  creek,  west  branch .... 

Snow  creek 

Truckee lake 

Slate  creek,  west  branch 


Kidder's  creek . 

do 

do , 

Barkhouse 

Kidder's  creek. 


:5  n 


30 
6 

16 
6 


12 

8 

3 
53 
18 

8 

2 
16 

4 
17 

8 
22 
10 

3 
17 


7 
7 
3 
1 

H 

2 

(> 

4 

2 

3 

4 

2 
11 

3 

3 

3 

8 

2 

6 

3 

7 

6 
15 

3 

4 


16 

15 

12 

5 

9 


Cost. 


$300, 000 
133,  000 
390, 000 
125,  000 


10,000 
15,000 

3,000 
]  40,  000 
10,000 
12, 000, 
10, 000 
10, 000 

5,000 
15, 000 

4,000 
25, 000 
16, 000 

4,000 
18, 000 


50, 000 

12, 000 

4,000 

2,500 

3,000 

4,000 

1,500 

18, 000 

5,000 

2,500 

13, 000 

3,000 

50, 000 

2,000 

6,000 

5,000 

12, 000 

14, 000 

40, 000 

10,000 

34,  000 

10, 000 

150, 000 

10, 000 

9,000 


7,000 


3,000 
4,000 
4,000 
2,000 
3,500 


WEST   OF   THE   EOCKY   MOUNTAINS. 


205 


Table  of  canals  and  ivaicr  difcJics,  dx. — Continnetl. 


Name  of  ditch. 


SISKIYOU  COUNTY — Continued. 


Callahan's  Kanch. . . 

Cottonwood 

Crawfonl's 

French  Fiats 

Fort  Goti" 

Hawliiusville 

Jaclison's  Bar 

Mc Kinney's  Creek.. 

Mugpinsville 

Quartz  Hill 

Quartz  Valley 

Scott  Bar 

Scott  River 

Shasta  Kiver  Canal. 

Siad  Valley . .  1 

Whitinj;  Hill 


STANISLAUS  COUNTY. 

Kappelmann  Co 

Kniffht's  Ferry  &  Table  Mt. 

La  Grange 

Mountain   Brow 

San  Joaquin 


TRINITY  COUNTY. 


Attingers 

Canyon  Creek 

Canyon  Creek  W 

Carder's 

Carrier  Gulch 

Chapman's 

Cnrjie's 

Depinett's 

Dunham's 

East  Fork 

EastFork 

Eastman's 

Evans'  Bar 

Fegan's 

Fenning's 

Gold  Bluff 

Hatchet  Creek , 

Honest  Bar , 

Junction  City 

Junction  City 

Lewistown 

Mooney's  Gulch 

North  Fork 

North  Fork 

Ohio  Flat 

Petlijohu  &  Co.  (.3) 

Poverty  Flat 

Red  Flat 

Ked  Hill 

Red  Hill 

Ridgcviile 

Rush  Creek 

Steiner's  Flat 

Stratt/m's 

Swift  Creek 

Taylor  Flat 


Co.'s. 


Source  of  water. 


Scott  river,  south  fork. 

Cottonwood  creek 

do , 

Scott  river,  south  fork. 

Turner  creek 

Greenhorn  creek 

McKiuney  creek 

do.". 

Howard  creek 

Mill  creek 

Howard  creek 

Mill  creek 

Scott  river 

Shasta  river 

Klamath  river 

Lake  Whiting 


Six-mile  bar 

Stanislaus  river . . 
Tuolumne  river... 
Littlejohn's  creek. 
Stanislaus  river  . . 


Indian  creek 

Guzner  gulch 

Canyon  creek 

Eastman  gulch 

Carrier  gulch 

Soldier  creek 

Franklin  creek 

Canyon  creek,  east  fork 

Mooney  gulch 

East  Fork 

East  Fork  of  north  fork 

Eastman's  gulch , 

Maxwell's  creek 

Clear  gulch 

Grizzly  gulch 

McKinley  gulch 

Hatchet  creek 

Trinity  river,  north  fork 

Canyon  creek 

Canyon  creek 

Dead  wood  creek 

Mooney's  gulch 

Trinity  river,  north  fork 

Logan  creek 

Grass  Valley  creek 

Mooney  and  Calvin  gulches. 

East  Weaver 

Gwin  gulch 

Conner's  creek 

Rush  creek 

Stuart's  Fork,  east  fork 

Rush  creek 

Brown's  creek 

Indian  creek 

Swift  creek 

French  creek 


O)  be 

:::  a 

OH     a 


8 
4 
5 
6 
3 
4 
5 
4 
7 
5 
20 
85 
4 
3 


10 
7 
7 
4 

15 


2 
2 
4 
J 
2 
2 
2 
5 
2 
5 
2 
3 
2 
3 
2 
2 
3 
3 
3 
3 
2 
2 
2 
2 
.2 
5 
H 


U 


Cost. 


$300 

10,500 

8,000 

800 

3,000 

4,000 

2, 500 

3,000 

2,800 

2,500 

2, 500 

4,000 

40, 000 

300, 000 

2, 000 

2,500 


60, 000 
25, 000 
40, 000 
5,000 
40, 000 


3,500 
3,000 

12, 000 
1,500 
2,000 
4,000 
4,000 
8,000 
3,000 
6,000 
3,000 
C,000 
2,000 
4,000 
2,000 
2, 000 
5,000 
6,000 
5, 000 

10, 000 
2, 500 
3,500 
2,000 
2,000 
2,000 
5,000 
1,500 
1,000 
6, 000 
1,500 

10,000 
8,000 

10,000 
2, 000 
4,000 

10.000 


206  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

TaUe  of  canals  and  tcater  ditches,  cfc. — Continued. 


Name  of  ditch. 


Source  of  water. 


•"■3 
S-5 


Cost. 


TRINITY  COUNTY— Continued. 


Trinity  Centre 

Turner  Bar  Co.'s. . 

Wares  (3) 

Weaver  Creek 

Weaver  Creek 

Weaverville  Basin. 


Swift  creek 

Redding's  creek 

East  &  West  Weaver  creeks. 

Weaver  creek 

Weaver  creek 

Weaver  creek 


TULARE  COUNTY. 

Broder  &  Van  Gordan 

Brown's  Mill 

Campbell  &  Martins 

Davenport's 

Everton's 

Fisher's 

Jenning's 

Johnson's 

Long  Ditch 

Lowry,  Worthley  &  Co 

Owen's 

People's 

Resei'vation 

Rice's 

Town  Ditch 

Townsend's 

Union  Vineyard  &  Farming  Co.. 

TUOLUMNE  COUNTY. 


Big  Oak  Flat 

Hydraulic  Co 

Jamestown  &.  Chinese  Camp. 
Phoenix  Water  Co 

Sonora  and  Yorktown  D.  Co. . 
Tuolumne  County  Water  Co . . 


Kawiah 

Packwood  creek . . . 

Tule  river 

Sand  creek 

Kawiah 

Sand  creek 

Mill  creek 

Deep  creek 

Kawiah 

Sand  creek 

Sand  creek 

Kawiah 

Tule  river 

KaAviah , 

Brown's  Mill  ditch. 

Sand  creek 

Kawiah .., 


Tuolumne  river 

Tuolumne  river,  north  fork. 
Wood  creek 

Tuolumne  river,  north  fork. 
Tuolumne  river,  north  fork. 
Stanislaus  river,  south  fork . . 


YUBA  COUNTY 


Birmingham 

Brown's 

Burnett's 

Camptonville 

Collyer 

Deaver's 

Dennison's 

Dunn's 

Excelsior  Canal  Co. 

Feather  River 

Little  Willow 

McQueen's 

Monroe  &  Cornell.. 

Mrock's 

Mullan's 

Never's 

New  York 

Nine  Horse 

Oregon  Creek 

Peacock  

Pine  Hill 

Sleighville 


Strawberry  creek . 

Oregon  creek 

Dry  creek 


Dry  creek 

Oregon  gulch . 


Spencer . . 
Turffrey's. 


Sleighville  gulch.. 

Deer  creek 

Feather  river 

Willow  creek 

Dry  creek 

New  York  ravine. 

Dry  creek 

Dry  creek 

Indian  creek 

Oregon  creek 

New  York  ravine. 

Oregon  creek 

Yuba  river 

Bear  river 

Sleighville  gulch   . 

Dry  creek 

Oregon  creek 

Indian  creek 

Dry  creek 


2 

4 

11 

2 

4 


5 
3 
4 
2 
2 
3 
4 
7 
3 
2 
4 
10 
4 
5 
4 
U 


40 
50 
7 
100 
10 
35 


150 


$2, 000 
C^,  000 

12, 000 
2,000 
6,000 

10, 000 


1,000 
4,000 
1,500 
1,500 
3,000 
800 
1,000 
1,500 

eoo 

700 
1,000 
8,000 
2, 000 
2,  000 
2,000 

500 
1,500 


600, 000 

300, 000 

15,000 

300, 000 

• 

'556, 666 


1,500 

500 

10,000 

3,000 

600 

900 

500 

1,500 

500, 000 

10,000 

1,200 

8, 000 

12, 000 

600 

1,000 

2,000 

600 

500 

6,000 

1,000 

1,600 

2,  000 

3,000 

10,000 

6,000 

8,000 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  207 

SECTION    XX. 

THE  MISCELLANEOUS  MINERALS  OF  THE  PACIFIC  COAST. 

In  rofen-ing  to  the  nature,  extent,  and  development  of  the  miscellaneous  min- 
erals found  on  the  Pacific  coast,  exclusive  of  gold,  silver,  and  quicksilver,  tho 
materials  ai-e  so  abundant,  and  the  details  so  interesting,  as  to  render  it  dif- 
ficult to  select  such  portions  as  will  convey  the  desired  information  within  tho 
limits  prescribed.  When  it  is  remembered  that  there  is  scarcely  a  metal  or  min- 
eral used  in  the  arts,  or  known  to  science,  but  is  represented  on  this  coast — gen- 
erally in  greater  proportion  than  in  any  other  country — it  will  be  perceived  that 
a  mere  lis't  of  their  names,  and  of  the  localities  in  which  they  are  found,  would 
occupy  more  space  than  would  be  desirable  in  an  official  document.  This  branch 
of  the  report  is,  therefore,  confined  to  a  few  facts  relating  to  the  best  known  and 
most  important  of  these  products.  The  details,  though  necessarily  incomplete,  con- 
tain sufficient  data  upon  which  to  base  an  opinion  of  the  extent  and  variety  of 
the  miscellaneous  mineral  resources  of  the  Pacific  slope. 

CoprER. — This  branch  of  mining,  which  was  in  process  of  development  last 
year,  is  at  present  in  a  depressed  condition.  Various  circumstances,  bncfly  refeiTcd 
to  hereafter,  have  caused  a  reduction  in  the  value  of  metallic  copper  in  the  mar- 
kets of  the  world.  The  depression  has  been  felt  more  severely  by  the  miners  on 
this  coast  than  by  those  of  any  other  part  of  the  Union,  because  copper  mining 
being  in  its  infancy  here,  was  struggling  to  secure  the  aid  of  capital  for  its  exten- 
sion ;  an  object  the  attainment  of  which  is  hopeless  under  existing  circumstauces- 
Another  drawback  has  been  the  increased  cost  of  freight,  conseqtient  on  the 
demand  for  vessels  to  cany  wheat,  flour,  and  other  produce  to  the  ports  to  which. 
it  has  been  usual  heretofore  to  ship  ores  and  metals.  This  increase  has  been 
equal  to  a  reduction  of  $5  per  ton  in  the  value  of  the  ores ;  because  they  must  be 
shipped  in  order  to  reach  smelters  and  consumers,  as  there  are  no  regular  pur- 
chasers here,  except  such  as  buy  for  export. 

Reference  to  some  of  the  causes  which  have  thus  crippled  the  development 
of  this  som-ce  of  wealth  aflbrds  the  best  means  for  judging  whether  such  reduc- 
tion- is  likely  to  be  permanent,  or  of  merely  temporary  duration.  India,  for  the 
past  quarter  of  a  century,  has  absorlied  all  tho  ingot  copper  sent  there  from  all 
parts  of  the  world.  IMany  of  the  wealthy  natives  in  the  distant  interior  of  that 
countiy  hoarded  these  ingots  as  treasure,  and  they  passed  as  currency  among 
them.  The  importations  of  gold  and  silver  since  the  discovery  of  these  metals 
in  California  and  Australia,  together  with  tho  extension  of  railroads  and  other 
features  of  European  civilization  in  Asia,  have  almost  entirely  abolished  this 
custom.  The  precious  metals  have  superseded  copper  in  the  business  oi  its 
semi-barbarous  people.  This  change  has  not  only  caused  a  stoppage  in  the 
demand  for  copper  in  what  was  formerly  the  best  market  for  its  disposal,  but 
thousands  of  tons,  the  accumulations  of  years,  have  been  brought  out  from  hiding 
places  to  be  exchanged  for  the  jjrecious  metals.  It  will  require  years  to  absorb 
the  present  supply  of  copper  in  India  by  the  manufacturers  of  that  country,  par- 
ticularly as  most  of  the  utensils  and  ornaments  made  of  that  metal  used  by  the 
people  are  imported  from  Europe  or  the  United  States. 

The  increasing  supply  of  ores  from  Australia,  Cuba,  Chili,  Africa,  Europe,  and 
the  United  States,. before  the  revulsion  in  India  was  severely  felt,  had  already 
begun  to  exceed  the  demand ;  and,  of  course,  this  excess  has  greatly  increased 
since,  giving  the  control  of  every  open  market  to  those  countries  where  it  can 
be  mined  and  melted  at  the  low'est  cost. 

The  increase  in  the  number  of  vessels  built  of  iron  in  Europe,  and  the  decline 
in  ship-building  in  the  United  States,  have  curtailed  the  demand  for  sheathing, 
which  a  few  years  since  was  the  chief  use  to  which  copper  was  applied  in  this 
country. 


208 


RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 


Anotlier  cause  for  the  decrease  in  the  demand  for  copper  arises  from  the  sub- 
stitution of  cheaper  metals  in  the  manufacture  of  articles  formerly  made  of  copper, 
and  the  introduction  of  processes  for  depositing  copper  on  other  metals  by  elec- 
tricity, by  which  a  mere  film  of  the  dearer  metal  gives  the  cheaper  one  the  appear- 
ance, and  causes  it  to  serve  most  of  the  pmrposes  of  the  other. 

The  above  are  among  the  leading  causes  of  the  present  depression  in  the  value 
of  copper,  and  springing,  as  they  do,  from  circumstances  not  likely  to  change 
for  the  better,  the  prospects  of  the  copper  mines  on  this  coast  are  not  very  flat- 
tering. 

The  mines  of  Bolivia  and  Chili,  owned  by  European  capitalists,  worked  at  less 
cost,  and  more  convenient  to  the  English  and  French  markets  than  those  of  Cali 
fornia,  can  drive  the  ores  from  this  coast  out  of  those  markets.  The  imports  of 
South  American  ores  into  England  in  1866  reached  35,336  tons,  while  but  4,591 
tons  were  received  from  California,  and  the  disproportion  will  be  still  greater 
during  the  present  year.  During  the  past  six  months  only  1,211  tonshavebeen 
shipped  from  San  Francisco  to  England,  while  the  receipts  from  South  America 
during  the  same  period  exceeded  482,000  quintals  of  96  pounds  each.  The 
present  prices  of  freight  and  ores  forbid  any  increase  of  shipments  hence  during 
tliis  year.  South  America,  in  1866,  also  sent  86,440  tons  of  ore  to  France,  a 
market  to  which  our  ores  cannot  be  sent  with  profit,  unless  a  great  reduction  can 
be  effected  in  the  expenses  of  mining  and  exportation. 

The  copper  mines  of  the  United  States  have  formidable  competitors  in  the 
European  markets  in  the  mines  of  Africa  and  Cuba.  The  richest  ores  on  the 
Euglish  market  for  some  time  past  have  been  brought  from  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  Africa.  These  ores  average  from  30  to  50  per  cent.  The  mines  of  Cuba 
have  also  yielded  a  large  quantity  of  rich  ores.  The  product  of  fine  copper  in 
Em"ope  and  America,  dm'ing  1867,  is  estimated  at  90,000  tons,  of  which  Bolina 
and  Chili  will  produce  two-thirds. 

The  following  tables,  showing  the  value  of  ores  in  England  during  the  past 
three  years,  and  the  cost  of  their  production  on  this  coast,  explain  the  causes  why 
California  cannot  compete  with  Chili  in  supplying  the  European  mai'kets.  As 
the  prices  at  Swansea,  Wales,  regulate  the  whole  European  market,  it  is  only 
necessary  to  give  the  rates  at  that  place. 

Price  of  copper  ores  at  Swansea  in  1865,  1866,  and  1867. 


Grade. 


10  per  cent per  ton. 

17  per  cent do... 

21  per  cent do.. . 


$36  50 
66  50 
69  75 


Cost  of  extracting  and  delivering  ores  at  Swansea. 

Minin<? per  ton.  $14  00 

Bags do...  4  00 

Sorting do...  1  00 

Wear  and  tear  of  machinery do...  1  50 

Interest  on  capital do 1  50 

Freight  to  San  Francisco do...  10  00 

Freight  to  Swansea ...do...  15  00 

Couiuiissions,  &c  .  — do...  5  00 

Insurance do...  1  50 

Cartage,  wharfage,  &o ^ do...  50 

Total  expenses do...  54  00 


WEST    OF    THE    ROOKY    MOUNTAINS.  209 

By  o^nipnrinc;  tlioso  oxi)cnsos  with  tl)o  list  of  pri(.'os  above,  it  will  readily  be 
]H'iv<'iv(.Hl  that  ores  under  1.5  per  eent.  do  not  cover  exp(>nses.  As  seven-eighths 
ot"  the  ores  obtained  on  this  eoa^t  do  not  reach  that  standard,  it  is  unprofitable  to 
extract  them.  The  sain<^  fii>:ures  apply  to  the  markets  at  New  York  and  Boston. 
As  more  than  three-fom-ths  of  the  ores  smelted  in  Eurojx'and  the  Atlantic  States 
do  not  uverafifc  15  ])er  cent.,  it  is  clear  that  the  mines  whence  such  ore  isol)taine(l 
])ossess  11  great  advant'ige  over  those  on  the  Pacilic  coast,  entirely  through  the 
saving  in  cost  of  labor  and  transportation. 

The  statistics  relating  to  the  cojiper  mines  of  England,  ])ublished  by  authority 
of  the  government  of  that  country  in  ISGG,  show  that  during  that  year  198,298 
tons  of  ore  were  obt,aiued  fnmi  the  English  mines,  which  yielded  11,888  tons  of 
fine  copper,  or  an  average  of  but  5  .9  per  cent.  This  on*,  estimated  at  $25  per 
ton,  wa^  valued  at  S1,9G7,4")0.  As  the  mines  on  this  coast  could  be  made  to 
produce  annually  an  e<pial  quantity  of  ore  of  greater  vahie,  the  proportions  of 
the  loss  the  country  sustains  l)y  their  remaining  undeveloped  deserves  considera- 
tion. 

The  establishment  of  comjirehensive  smelting  works  at  some  suitable  place, 
with  ample  capital  to  conduct  operations  on  a  liberal  scale,  would  be  a  great 
advantage?  to  the  country  by  encoinaging  the  dev(dopment  of  this  interest,  and 
would  doubtless  in  time  yield  fair  returns  for  the  amount  i;  i vested. 

The  present  plan  of  erecting  temporary  smelting  works  near  each  mine,  for 
the  purpose  of  operating  on  the  richest  ores,  is  an  injury  to  the  copper  interest, 
becavu^e  it  exhausts  materials  which  might  be  more  advantageously  employed. 
These  temporary  works  can  only  operate  on  the  richest  oxides,  carbonates,  and 
silicates,  which  form  Ivat  a  small  pro})ovtion  of  the  ores.  The  great  mass  of  them 
consists  of  snlplnu'ets,  in  the  reduction  of  which  the  oxygen,  carbon,  and  silic^i 
of  the  richer  ores  sei"V"e  an  important  j)urpose.  It  is  the  opportunity  of  selecting 
suitable  ores  for  coml)ining,  which  the  smelters  of  Wales  possess,  with  a  market 
for  every  kind  and  grade  offered,  that  enables  them  to  operate  so  snccessfnlly. 
I'he  ores  from  the  Coniish  mines  are  sulphides,  and  would  be  too  poor  to  work, 
but  for  this  arrangement.  Lime  and  silica  l)eing  essential  elements  in  the  reduc- 
tion of  copper  from  its  ores,  connnon  sense  teaches  that  it  is  more  economical  to 
employ  these  elements  when  comltined  l>y  nature  with  the  metal,  than  to  collect 
them  from  other  sources  and  mix  them  artificially,  at  additional  cost.  It  was  to 
secure  this  advantage  that  the  Boston  smelters,  during  the  past  year,  sent  to 
Wales  to  purchase  a  c^rgo  of  carbonates  to  mix  the  sulphides  received  from  this 
coast,  bec^iuse  the  miners  here,  who  have  large  quantities  of  carbonates,  prefer 
converting  them  into  matte. 

None  of  the  English  copper  miners  ever  smelt  their  ores.  They  are  all  sent 
to  the  public  market;  smelting  and  mining  being  considered  separate  and  distinct 
operations  in  that  country. 

The  method  of  transacting  business  in  the  Welsh  ore  market  is  peculiar,  but 
gives  satisfaction,  owing  to  its  fairness  to  buyer  and  seller.  All  the  ores  intended 
for  sale  are  piled  anil  s^ampled  ten  days  before  the  sale  takes  place.  Dining  that 
time  the  smelters  dej?iring  to  do  so  can  take  samples  to  estimate  the  value  of 
such  ])arcels  as  they  want.  Each  sends  in  his  bid  in  writing,  sealed,  directed  to 
the  agent  having  the  particular  parcel  for  sale.  The  highest  bidder  for  any  lot 
has  it  awarded  to  him.  This  is  a  better  plan  than  for  miners  to  be  obliged  to 
seek  purchasei-s,  without  knowing  the  value  of  the  ore  in  th(<  market. 

Nkw  DiscovERiKS. — The  circumstances  above  stated  have  had  the  effect  of 
preventing  prospecting  for  copi)er  to  a  great  extent.  But  some  discoveries  have 
been  made  withia  the  present  ycju-,  though  f(?w  of  them  have  been  much  developed. 
Among  the  most  important  are  the  folktwing  : 

The  Sien-a  Butte«  copper  mine,  located  near  Ilurd's  ranch,  Sierra  county.  The 
IckIc  on  this  discovery,  which  may  be  traced  by  its  outcrop  for  nearly  a  mile, 
differs  from  that  in  any  of  the  copper  mines,  in  several  material  resj)ect8.  It  is 
14 


210  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

the  only  body  of  copper  ores  of  any  importance  thus  far  found  in  the  granite  on 
tliis  coast,  except  at  Meadow  lake,  Nevada  county,  hereafter  refen-ed  to. 

llieore  is  contained  in  a  quartzose  gangue  rock,  the  lode  having  a  well-defined 
ftmcan  (as  the  miners  teim  the  soft  clay  which  usually  accompanies  true  veins 
of  ore)  on  the  foot  wall ;  the  hanging  wall  being  a  hard,  compact,  feldspathic 
granite,  which  also  constitutes  the  *'  country"  in  which  the  lode  is  enclosed.  There 
are  considerable  quantites  of  molybdenum  in  the  vein-stone,  in  the  form  of  both 
the  sulphite  and  oxide  of  that  metal.  There  are  other  lodes  of  copper  ores  in 
the  same  locality  contained  in  the  granite ;  but  each  differs  somewhat  in  compo- 
sition and  appearance  from  all  the  others,  forming  an  interesting  field  for  scientific 
investigation.  The  SieiTa  Buttes  is  the  only  one  of  these  lodes  that  has  been 
worked  to  any  extent,  o^\^ng  to  its  containing  sufiicient  gold  in  the  gangue  rock 
to  pay  for  extraction,  though  the  ore  will  average  10  per  cent,  of  copper.  The 
cost  of  transportation  from  that  distance  to  a  market  over  such  roads  as  exist;, 
under  the  present  condition  of  affairs,  causes  such  a  grade  of  ores  to  be  valueless. 
A  tunnel  is  in  course  of  constmction  on  this  mine,  which  when  completed  -w-ill 
strike  the  lode  at  a  depth  of  1,000  feet  below  the  surface.  In  a  shaft  sunk  on  it 
to  the  depth  of  60  feet,  the  lode  was  found  to  be  seven  feet  wide. 

A  promising  outcrop  of  copper  ore  has  been  found  near  Marango  Pass,  San 
Bernardino  county,  California. 

A  company  was  incorporated  at  San  Francisco  in  July,  1867,  with  a  capital 
stock  of  $240,000,  for  the  purpose  of  working  a  copper  mine  in  the  Moro  district, 
San  Luis  Obispo  county,.  California. 

In  the  California  mine,  at  Meadow  lake,  Nevada  county,  the  highest  inhabited 
portion  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  at  an  altitude  of  8,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  metallic  copper  is  found  in  the  quartz,  the  gold  and  copper  in  which,  though 
intimately  mixed,  are  never  alloyed  with  each  other. 

The  vein-stone  of  the  lodes  in  this  elevated  district  carries  a  percentage  of 
copper,  generally  in  the  form  of  sulphnrets,  combined  with  those  of  iron,  lead, 
zinc,  cobalt,  nickel,  and  arsenic.  In  the  Shooting  Star  mine,  at  the  depth  of  40 
feet,  the  lode  contains  an  ore  which  yields  15  per  cent,  of  copper,  $40  per  ton 
of  silver,  and  $20  per  ton  of  gold.  It  is  proposed  to  erect  furnaces  to  smelt  the 
rich  but  complex  ores  of  this  district. 

The  Lyons  Company's  mine,  located  about  three  miles  from  the  town  of 
Ashton,  Colusa  county,  in  the  Coast  range,  contains  a  body  of  oxides  and  car- 
bonates. A  temporary'*  furnace  was  erected  to  work  these  ores,  but  being  unfit 
for  the  purpose,  one  of  HaskelFs  water-lined  furnaces  is  now  being  built.  This, 
though  not  a  now  discovery,  had  not  been  of  much  importance  till  smelting 
operations  were  commenced. 

Persons  who  have  visited  the  new  Ten'itory  of  Alaska  report  it  as  being  rich 
in  copper.  M.  Foucoult,  a  French  gentleman,  who  spent  several  months  in  the 
Territory  among  the  Indians,  states  that  they  Value  copper  as  much  as  civilized 
men  value  gold.  The  chiefs  wear  masses  of  it  suspended  round  their  necks,  as 
highly  prized  ornaments.  Some  of  the  higher  chiefs  have  lumps  of  the  metal 
that  weigh  sev(;ral  lunuhed  pounds  each,  which  are  heir-looms  of  the  tribe,  and 
are  kept  in  the  great  wigwam.  This  gentleman  states,  that  in  order  to  obtain 
these  nuggets  of  copper,  the  Indians  keep  up  large  fires  for  weeks  on  the  out- 
croppings  of  the  lodes,  which  melts  the  carbonates  and  oxides  near  the  surface. 
It  is  a  well-known  fact,  mentioned  in  the  writings  of  the  earlier  visitors  to  this 
coast,  that  the  natives  of  that  Territory,  and  those  unmediately  adjoining,  were 
the  only  tribes  that  })ossessed  copper  weapons  and  oniaments  when  first  discovered. 

In  August,  1866,  a  discovery  of  copper  ore  was  made  in  the  mountains,  on 
the  south  branch  of  King's  river,  Tulare  county,  about  68  miles  from  Fresno 
City.  There  are  four  distinct  and  parallel  lodes,  a  few  feet  apart  from  each 
other,  in  the  locality,  each  containing  a  percentage  of  '^horseflesh"  ore,  or 
erubescite,  in  a  quartzoso  gangue  rock.     The  lodes  are  from  two  to  eight  feet 


WEST    OF   THE    EOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  211 

wide,  and  arc  trace^ible  for  several  miles,  cresting  a  hi£;li  hill  and  across  a  steep 
cnnon.  An  analysis  of  the  ore  shows  it  to  contain  GO  per  cent,  copper,  820  per 
ton  in  gold,  and  nearly  $60  per  ton  in  silver.  Owing  to  the  mountainous 
character  of  the  cotuitry  where  this  discovery  was  made,  but  little  can  be  done 
towards  its  development  till  a  road  can  be  made  to  convey  materials.  This  will 
involve  an  expense,  which  capitalists  are  not  disposed  to  incur  in  prospecting 
cojiper  mines  at  present.  If  there  were  no  copper  in  the  ledges,  there  would  be 
less  diiliculty  in  obtaining  funds  to  prospect  them  for  the  gold  and  silver  they 
(vmtain;  but  the  disasters  which  have  befallen  the  copper  interest  within  the  past 
year  have  cast  a  feeling  of  distrust  over  everything  bearing  the  name  or  natm-c  of 
CA>pper.  There  is  abundance  of  wood  and  water  in  the  vicinity  of  the  discovery; 
luid  could  one  of  Ilaskell's  furnaces  be  erected  there,  the  parties  who  own  the 
lodes  would  probably  realize  something  for  their  labor  and  enterprise. 

JSeveral  discoveries  have  been  made  within  the  past  few  months  in  the  moun- 
tains bordering  the  Tule  river,  in  Tulare  count}^  which  have  been  prospected 
sufficient!}'  to  demonstrate  their  value.  The  lodes  ai-e  generally  similar  in 
character  to  those  found  on  the  south  fork  of  King's  river,  in  the  same  county, 
and  described  above.  The  localities  of  the  two  discoveries  are  about  50  miles 
apart.  The  lodes  on  the  Tulare  ai"e  contained  in  the  metamorphic  slate,  near 
its  junction  with  the  granite. 

A  body  of  ore  has  been  partially  developed  near  Copper  City,  Shasta  county, 
on  which  a  company  of  English  capitalists  have  oflered  to  erect  smelting  works, 
provided  the  parties  owning  the  mine  will  grant  them  a  lease  on  temis  they 
propose. 

It  is  stated  by  parties  who  have  been  prospecting  in  Utah  during  the  past 
season  that  the  croppings  of  copper  ore  are  abundant  in  the  south  and  southeast 
sections  of  that  Territory.  Copper  ores  are  reported  to  have  been  found  in  the 
Battle  Mountain  district,  Humboldt  county,  Nevada,  about  90  miles  north-north- 
west from  Austin. 

The  surveyors  employed  by  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad  Company  report 
the  existence  of  copper-bearing  lodet:  in  the  Trinity  mountains,  Humboldt  county, 
Nevada. 

Recent  Development  of  the  Copper  Mines. — The  condition  of  aflfairs, 
resulting  fi'om  the  causes  stated,  will  be  best  exhibited  by  showing  the  extent  of 
tlie  development  of  the  mines  described  in  the  previous  report.  This  will  also 
afford  a  means  for  comparison. 

The  Copperopolis  Mines. — These  mines,  owing  to  their  extent,  the  capital 
expended  in  their  development,  the  value  of  the  ores  extracted  from  them,  and 
the  cpiantity  at  present  available  for  extraction,  place  them  at  the  head  of  the 
copper  mines  on  the  Pacific  coast. 

The  Union  mine  has  been  but  partially  worked  during  1867.  Its  owners 
find  it  more  profitable  to  place  it  in  a  condition  for  future  operations,  than  to 
extract  ore  for  siile  at  present  prices.  But  little  ore  has  consequently  been  taken 
out — only  such  as  it  was  necessary  to  move  in  making  explorations.  The  number 
of  men  employed  has  been  reduced  to  150;  in  1865  and  1866  nearly  400  were 
employed.  The  chief  work  doing  at  the  mine  at  i^resent  is  keeping  it  free  from 
water  and  making  the  necessary  repairs  to  the  works  above  and  below  ground. 

The  explorations  in  the  main  shaft  have  extended  to  500  feet  in  perpendicular 
depth,  where  the  lode  on  the  north,  near  the  line  of  the  Keystone  ground,  is  15 
feet  wide.  At  the  400-feet  level  in  the  same  shaft,  100  feet  above,  the  lode  has 
decreased  to  six  feet  in  width.  This  increase  in  its  proportions  is  a  favorable 
symptom  of  permanencx^,  and  proves  the  coiTcctness  of  the  opinion  that  the  con- 
traction of  the  lode  at  the  400-fcet  level  would  not  be  permanent.  The  total 
quantity  of  ore  talcn  from  this  mine  from  January  1  till  July  15,  1867,  was 
8,382,855  pounds;  total  quantity  since  it  was  opened  in  1861,  108,731,678 
pounds;  aU  of  which  has  been  exported  to  the  Atlantic  States  and  Europe, 


212  RESOURCES     OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

except  about  2,376,000  pounds,  or  1,000  tons,  portions  of  which  remain  at  t3ie 
mine,  at  Stockton,  and  San  Francisco,  ready  for  shipment. 

The  Ketstoxe  Mine. — Exp*lorations  in  this  mine  have  been  extensive  and 
costly  during  the  past  year.  The  cross-cut  toward  the  south  line,  in  the  sixth 
level,  at  a  depth  of  350  feet,  running  from  the  south  or  Houghton  shaft,  struck 
the  main  lode  where  it  was  10  feet  wide,  of  15  per  cent.  ore.  It  was  deemed 
best  to  sink  the  main  shaft  200  feet,  to  avoid  the  necessity  of  working  by  a 
winze  at  so  great  a  distance  from  the  shaft,  as  it  was  calculated  the  shaft  would 
strike  th;-  :ode  at  that  depth.  At  the  depth  of  552  feet  a  cross-cut  was  ma<le  43 
feet  in  length  before  the  lode  was  reached.  Its  width  at  that  depth  could  not 
be  asceftained,  owing  to  the  great  increase  of  water,  which  prevented  the  n>e.n 
drifting  till  a  sufficiently  large  sump-hole  could  bo  made. 

The  company  have  taken  out  but  little  ore  during  the  past  year,  having  ceased 
operations,  excej^t  for  exploration,  early  in  April.  At  present  they  only  employ 
a,  few  men  to  attend  the  machinery  and  pumps,  to  keep  the  mine  from  filling  with 
water.  The  total  receipts  from  the  sale  of  ores  taken  from  this  mine  amount  to 
$375,000.  The  amount  of  assessments  collected  exceed  $100,000,  the  whole  of 
which  has  been  expended  in  developing  the  mine  and  purchasing  machinery. 
The  company  has  never  declared  a  dividend. 

The  othek  Copperopolis  Mines. — The  Empire,  Consolidated,  and  Inim 
itable  were  worked  to  some  extent  in  the  spring ;  but  have  been  idle  for  several 
months.  The  owners  of  the  latter  mine  (which  is  parallel  and  immediately 
adjoining  the  Union)  had  sued  that  company  for  taking  out  ore  from  their 
ground.  The  case  attracted  considerable  attention  from  its  novelty  and  the 
value  of  the  interests  involved.     It  was  decided  in  favor  of  the  Union  Company. 

The  Napoleon  Mine. — The  new  shaft  on  this  mine  was  sunk  to  the  deptli 
of  195  feet,  when  work  was  suspended.    No  ore  has  been  taken  from  it  during  1867. 

The  Campo  Seco  Mine. — This  mine  has  been  partially  worked  for  a  few 
months  during  the  present  year.  Smelting  works  were  erected  by  the  company 
as  early  as  November,  1865,  and  arrangements  made  for  working  economically. 
A  railroad  a  mile  in  length  was  constructed  for  the  purpose  of  conveying  the  ores 
from  the  mine  to  the  furnace.  By  a  judicious  arrangement  in  the  location  of  the 
works,  the  ore,  after  reaching  the  surface  tlu-ough  the  shaft,  is  earned  down  to 
the  furnaces  by  its  own  weight,  and  these  being  located  on  the  banks  of  the 
Mokelumne  river,  the  slag  and  other  waste  is  dumped  into  that  river  at  trifling 
cost  for  labor. 

The  smeltijig  works  consist  of  two  cupola  furnaces  and  a  McKenzio  blast, 
moved  by  a  water  wheel,  and  a  roasting  kiln.  The  furnaces  are  built  of  sand- 
stone and  lined  with  steatite,  both  of  which  materials  are  abundant  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  the  works,  and  appear  to  be  tolerably  well  adapte<l  for  the  purjx)se. 
The  object  of  the  company  in  erecting  these  worlis  was  not  to  make  copper  or 
matte  of  a  high  standard,  but  to  c<:)ncentrate  the  ores  obtained  below  10  per 
wnt.  into  about  35  per  cent,  regulus.  The  experience  of  the  persons  in.  charge 
confinns  the  remarks  heretofore  made  in  relation  to  the  impolicy  of  each  mine 
nmclting  its  own  ores.  The  ores  here,  like  the  bulk  of  all  obtained  from  the 
mines  on  the  cupriferous  belt  which  traverses  the  State  from  north  to  south,  are 
nearly  pure  sulphides  of  iron  and  copper,  rarely  containing  more  than  five  per 
cent  of  silica,  and  consequently  difficidt  to  reduce  alone.  The  average  assay  of 
20  samples  shows  45  per  cent,  sulphur,  40  per  cent,  iron,  6  to  10  per  cent.  copj)er, 
the  remainder  being  silica,  water,  &c.  To  reduce  such  an  ore  to  regulus  it  was 
i'ound  necessiiry  to  add  20  per  cent,  of  quaitz,  in  order  to  supply  sufficient  silica 
t^)  combine  with  the  iron  after  the  liberation  of  that  metal  from  the  sulphur.  Had 
silicates  of  copper  or  ores  contfiining  a  considerable  percentage  of  quartzose 
gangue  rock  been  available,  a  much  larger  jiroduct  of  copper  would  have  be<^n 
obtainetl  at  the  same  cost  of  fuel,  flux,  and  labor. 

Even  in  the  processes  for  roasting  the  ores  in  kilns  the  absence  of  silicii  is 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  213 

a  groat  iliyadvautjijxc  and  sonrw  of  loss.  The  sulphur,  when  in  sucn  excess,  iw 
ill  this  class  of  ores,  whon  heated,  coats  the  ores,  forming  a  refractory  luntciial 
ll>r  future  operations. 

The  two  furnac<^'s  on  this  mine,  when  in  full  operation,  Binelted  about  ei<2:ht 
tons  of  ore  and  20  per  cent,  of  quartz  in  24  hours.  To  do  this  it  required  250 
bushels  of  charcoal  daily,  which  cost  about  20  cents  per  bushel ;  two  ineii  to 
attend  the  furnace  as  smelters,  two  to  supjily  materials,  two  to  carry  olF  the  slai^-, 
which,  owiiii^  to  the  lixrgc  proportion  of  iron  and  the  nature  of  the  flux,  wa.s 
larii^e,  and  two  others  to  prepare  the  materials  for  the  furnace  feeders.  Most  oi' 
tJie  work  was  performed  by  Chinese  labor. 

The  Laxcua  Plana  Mixes. — These  mines  being  under  the  control  of  tho 
projirietors  of  the  Ihiion,  have  not  been  worked  during  the  year. 

TnE  Mixes  ix  Amador  County. — The  Newton,  Cosumnes,  and  Pioueoi 
mines,  in  this  county,  ceased  operations  in  April,  1867. 

The  Mixes  ix  MARiroSx\.  Couxty. — The  principal  mine  in  this  county,  La 
Victorie,  owing  as  much  to  disagreements  among  its  stockholders  as  to  the  depre- 
ciation in  the  value  of  ores,  has  been  idle  nearly  tho  whole  of  the  present  year. 

Having  given  a  description  of  this  mine  in  previous  rc]K)rt,  the  following 
imrticulars  relating  to  its  working  will  be  interesting  for  reference :  After  an 
examination  made  by  order  of  the  company,  the  engineer  in  his  report  states  that 
tlie  mine  from  the  tunnel  has  been  well  opened.  The  foot-wall,  where  the  tun- 
nel enters  the  vein,  is  well  defined ;  but,  as  yet,  the  hanging  wall  had  not  been 
found,  although  the  vein  had  been  pierced  about  70  feet.  Two  thousand  tons 
t»f  ore  had  been  taken  out  of  the  mine,  chiefly  from  pockets  or  smaller  veins, 
mixed  with  the  materials  which  had  been  throw'n  into  the  larger  vein.  A  scries 
of  deposits  of  ore  exists  above  the  foot-wall,  more  or  less  connected,  containing 
quantities  of  black  oxide,  and  until  tho  works  arc  carried  below  the  surface  dis- 
turbances the  size,  value,  or  permanency  of  the  lode  cannot  be  determined. 
From  the  indicxitions  in  the  present  workings  there  is  reason  to  believe  the  mine 
will  prove  permanent  ajid  valuable.  The  company  not  having  the  means  to 
obtain  proper  machinery,  had  done  the  best  they  could  under  tlie  circumstancee. 
The  mine  is  well  timbered,  and  is  in  good  condition  for  future  operations. 

A  shaft  had  been  sunk  about  90  feet,  on  an  incline  which  it  was  suppose<l 
would  intersect  the  lode.  But  by  a  cross-cut  ruii  from  the  bottom  it  was  found 
tliat  the  lode  had  changed  in  dip.  The  shaft  was  therefore  sunk  nearly  vertical, 
so  as  to  strike  it  about  SO  feet  below,  or  on  a  level  with  tho  tunnel.  While  run- 
ning this  cross-cut,  seams  and  deposits  of  black  oxide  were  met  with. 

The  extraction  of  ores  while  the  mine  was  worked  was  slow  and  costly,  o^viIlg 
to  the  broken  nature  of  the  country  rock.  The  diflSculties  that  beset  the  com- 
pany are  in  part  due  to  tho  isolated  locality  of  the  mine.  It  is  too  far  from  any 
travelled  road  to  obtain  the  advantage  of  cheap  transportation  by  teams  return- 
ing empty  from  the  mountains.  The  neai'cst  point  of  shipment  is  84  miles,  over 
a  rougli  country.  Tho  cost  of  transportation  swallowed  up  tlie  value  of  tho 
oi'e.  In  addition  to  this,  the  company  conducted  its  business  on  the  same  exti'av- 
agant  scale  as  tho  riclicst  of  the  AVashoo  companies.  Its  oQicers,  salaries, 
ollice  rent  in  San  Francisco,  and  incidental  expenses  outside  the  mine  amounted 
to  $16,000  per  annum.  There  are  few  undeveloped  mines  that  could  stand  such 
a  drain.  Under  more  economical  management,  and  with  cheaper  transportation, 
tliis  mine  might  add  something  to  tho  wealth  of  the  State,  even  at  the  present 
low  price  of  copper.  Its  ores  are  abundant,  and  of  a  higher  grade  than  tlio 
average. 

The  Bucuaxax  Mine  is  located  in  Hunter's  valley,  Mariposa  county,  and 
has  been  worked  at  intervals  during  the  past  year.  The  shaJt,  in  June,  had 
readied  150  feet  in  depth,  where  the  lode  ^\•as  found  to  be  seven  feet  wide,  of 
tolerably  compact  sulphurets.  Having  oxides,  silicates,  and  carbonates  conve- 
nient to  the  smelting  works,  this  company,  during  the  year,  has  made  100  torw  of 


214  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND   TERRITORIES 

60  per  cent,  matte,  most  of  which  has  been  forwarded  to  San  Francisco,  where 
it  remains  at  present  for  want  of  a  market.  There  can  be  no  better  illustration 
of  the  reduction  in  the  value  of  copper  than  is  afforded  by  the  working  of  this 
mine.  The  matte  made  from  its  ores  in  1865,  averaging  60  per  cent,  of  copper, 
sold  at  San  Francisco  for  16  cents  per  pound.  The  same  grade  of  matte  cannot 
be  sold  at  present  at  nine  cents  per  pound. 

At  James's  ranch  the  Green  ilountain  Company  have  erected  smelting  works 
and  made  a  few  tons  of  matte. 

None  of  the  other  copi^er  mines  in  this  county  have  been  worked  during  the 
present  yeai\ 

The  Mii^ES  in  Sax  Luis  Oeispo  Coujttt. — But  little  having  been  done 
towards  developing  the  mines  in  this  county  during  the  present  3'ear,  there  are 
no  new  facts  to  report  concerning  them. 

The  Mines  in  Los  Angeles  Countt. — With  the  exception  of  prospecting 
among  the  claims  near  the  Solidad  pass,  nothing  has  been  done  in  this  county 
dming  the  past  year. 

The  Mines  in  Plumas  County. — The  Genesee  Valley  smelting  works  had 
to  cease  operations  during  the  winter  owing  to  the  weather,  and  work  has  not 
been  resumed  since,  the  price  of  copper  offering  no  inducements  to  the  proprie- 
tors to  incur  the  expense  of  refitting  furnaces  and  mine. 

The  Mines  in  Del  Norte  County. — With  the  exception  of  the  Alta  none 
of  the  copper  mines  in  this  county  have  been  worked  this  year.  The  Alta  com- 
pany have  been  engaged  in  developing  their  mine.  They  have  sunk  their  main 
shaft  to  the  depth  of  500  feet,  run  their  tunnel  200  feet,  and  drifted  at  several 
levels,  finding  bodies  of  ore  which  appear  to  improve  in  quality  as  the  workings 
progress.  The  disturbed  and  broken  character  of  the  formation  ceases  at  200 
feet  from  the  smface.  The  company  has  sent  400  tons  of  ore  to  San  Francisco 
since  January,  1807,  which  has  been  reahipped  to  New  York.  The  average  of 
ore  has  been  about  16  per  cent. ;  but  the  costs  attending  its  transportation  to  San 
Francisco,  and  reshipment  thence  to  New  York,  absorbs  the  value  in  expenses.    ' 

The  Mines  in  Contra  Costa  County. — None  of  the  copper  mines  in  this 
county  have  been  worked  this  year. 

The  Mines  in  Nevada  County. — Capital  and  labor  have  been  expended 
in  prospecting  the  copper  mines  in  the  western  part  of  this  county,  where  there 
is  a  copper-bearing  formation  extending  across  it  from  north  to  south,  on  which 
many  claims  have  been  located  and  to  some  extent  explored.  The  lodes  are 
generally  large,  but  the  ores  are  of  too  low  a  grade  to  cover  the  costs  of  trans- 
portation. Of  several  hundred  tons  sent  to  New  York  and  Swansea  the  average 
returns  did  not  exceed  nine  per  cent,  of  metal.  Under  more  favorable  condi- 
tions, Avith  cheap  labor  and  transportation,  these  mines  might  bo  made  to  pay. 
At  present  they  can  only  be  worked  at  a  loss. 

The  first  shaft  in  the  district,  called  the  Well,  because  sunk  for  the  purpose 
of  obtaining  a  supply  of  water,  is  near  Spencovillc,  in  Rough  and  Ready  town- 
ship. It  was  used  as  a  well  for  five  years,  till  the  excitement  about  copper  in 
1862,  when,  on  cleaning  it  out,  a  deposit  of  sulphurets  was  exposed  70  feet  wide, 
and  extending  to  an  indefinite  length  in  the  direction  of  the  stratification  of  the 
enclosing  metaTnorphosed  clay  slate,  with  a  foot-wall  and  fluccan.  But  the  ore, 
only  ranging  from  eight  to  nine  per  cent.,  did  not  pay  for  extraction  and  transport.. 

The  Last  Clianc<\  the  only  mine  worked  for  copper  in  this  county,  is  located 
on  this  belt,  near  the  Empire  ranch.  It  wivs  discovwed  in  186.3,  and  has  since 
been  explored  with  such  satisfactory  results  as  to  warrant  its  owners,  who  arc 
among  the  most  enterprising  citizens  in  the  State,  (D.  0.  Mills,  of  San  Francisco, 
A.  Delano,  S.  D.  Bosworlh,  and  E.  W.  Roberts,  of  Grass  Valley,)  to  make 
applii-ation  to  procure  title  from  the  federal  government  to  the  land  on  which 
the  mine  is  located,  the  first  application  of  the  kind  made.  A  shaft  has  been 
sunk  to  the  depth  of  200  feet,  where  the  lode  is  found  12  feet  wide,  of  sulplmr- 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  215 

cts,  avcraijing  from  12  to  20  per  cent,  of  metal.  Before  the  rise  in  price  of 
freight  a  shipment  of  this  ore  to  Swansea  returned  a  prolit  of  !?35  per  ton.  The 
corajMiny  own  2,400  feet  on  this  lode. 

Considerable  excitement  was  created  in  this  county  towards  the  close  of  18GG 
by  the  discovery  of  ores  in  the  Fox  mine,  from  which  al)()ut  40  tons  of  oxides 
and  carbonates  weiv  shipped  to  Swansea  in  October  of  that  year.  But  the  excit(!r 
ment  ceai^ed  as  the  price  of  copper  declined,  though  nearly  100  claims  were 
recorded  during  the  last  quarter  of  186G. 

Several  small  parcels  of  ores  have  been  received  at  San  Francisco  during  the 
present  year  from  the  AVestern  Star  and  Green  mines,  located  near  the  Last  Chanco 
and  on  the  same  lode ;  but  at  present  and  for  several  months  past  none  of  the 
mines  have  been  worked. 

Other  Califohxia  OorrER  Mixes. — With  the  exception  of  the  Union 
Company,  who  own  a  mine  in  Marin  county  which  they  prospected  for  a  few 
months  in  the  spring,  the  above  is  a  full  statement  of  t^e  progress  made  in  cop- 
per mining  in  California  during  the  year  1867. 

The  Oregon  CorPER  ]Mixes. — The  Queen  of  Bronze  and  other  mines  in 
this  St<ate  have  been  idle  during  the  past  year.  New  discoveries  have  been 
made,  but  none  of  them  have  been  developed  sufficiently  to  prove  their  value. 
The}'  are  refeiTed  to  merely  to  show  the  extent  of  country  on  this  coast  in  which 
c<ipper  lia-^  been  discovered. 

The  most  important  of  the  discoveries  have  been  made  in  the  southern  part 
of  Douglas  county,  Avhere  croppings  of  ore  exist,  not  in  the  form  of  gossan,  as  in 
California,  but  as  masses  of  oxides  and  carbonates,  which  will  be  of  importance 
if  extensive  smelting  works  should  be  erected. 

The  mines  on  Eagle  creek.  Baker  county,  have  been  explored  with  such  results 
as  to  have  induced  the  owners  to  enter  into  a  contract  with  the  Oregon  Steam 
Nangation  Company  to  carry  their  ores  to  San  Francisco,  at  a  stipulated  price, 
for  a  year. 

The  Lower  California  Copper  Mines. — The  Sance  mine,  at  Loretto,  has 
not  been  worked  during  the  past  year.  The  shaft  on  this  mine  has  reached  the 
depth  of  114  feet,  where  the  lode  is  seven  feet  wide,  the  ore  said  to  average  12 
per  cent. 

A  few  tons  of  ore  were  received  occasionally  at  San  Francisco  from  mines 
along  the  lower  coast,  during  the  past  spring,  but  such  shipments  have  entirely 
ceased  for  several  months. 

The  Copper  Mines  of  Nevada.* — i\Iost  of  the  ores  found  in  the  district  of 
Pahranagat,  though  gen(n-ally  famous  for  the  silver  they  contain,  are  more  prop- 
erly described  as  cojjper  ores.  They  consist  chiefly  of  gray  copper,  copper 
pyrites,  erubescite,  and  other  familiar  ores  of  copper,  combined  with  sulphites  of 
silver,  lead,  iron,  zinc,  &c.  No  gold  has  yet  been  found  in  the  district.  These 
ores  are  contained  in  a  quai'tzose  veinstone  in  some  ledges ;  in  others  the  gangue 
rock  is  calcspar,  (a  carbonate  of  lime.)  Some  of  the  ores  contain  as  high  as  oO 
per  cent,  of  copper.  This  tlistrict  lies  in  the  extreme  southeast  corner  of  Nevada, 
where  it  joins  Utah  and  Arizona,  in  37°  37''  north  latitude  and  112°  longitude 
west  from  Greenwich.  The  mineral  wealth  of  the  district  is  contained  in  a  range 
of  moTintains  about  six  miles  long  and  f(jur  miles  wide,  running  nearly  north  and 
south,  the  general  name  for  which  is  Mount  Irish,  though  each  peak  has  a  sepa- 
rate name.  Sorae  of  the  crests  of  the  range  tower  to  the  height  of  1 1 ,000  feet, 
and  are  covered  with  perpetual  snow.  The  lodes  present  the  characteristics  of 
true  fissure  veins,  and  appear  to  consist  of  several  series,  crossing  each  other  in 
some  places  at  right  angles,  the  whole  being  contained  in  a  metamorphosed  lime- 
stone formation.     In  any  other  locality  they  would  be  valuable  for  copper  mining. 

*  Described  more  fully  in  the  section  on  Nevada. 


216  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

Similar  ores  are  obtained  in  the  mines  of  Inyo  and  Mono  counties,  California. 
These,  however,  contain  a  per  cent,  of  gold.  These  ores  are  refractory  when 
worked  by  the  ordinary  mill  processes.  Some  of  this  class  of  ore  taken  from 
the  Camanche  mine,  in  Jlono  county,  and  sent  to  Swansea  for  reduction,  returned 
$1,000  per  ton  in  gold,  silver,  and  copper.  The  mines  in  Kearsarge,  Fish  Springs, 
Aurora,  and  other  districts  among  the  higher  divisions  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  pro- 
duce similar  ores.  The  completion  of  the  Central  Pacific  railroad  will  be  of 
great  benefit  to  the  miners  of  this  extensive  mineral  region,  particularly  if  a 
process  shall  be  discovered  by  which  the  gold  and  silver  can  be  extracted  with- 
out wasting  the  copper  they  contain — a  contingency  quite  possible.  If  such  an 
establishment  for  smelting  as  the  interests  of  the  coast  demand  were  erected  at 
some  point  convenient  to  water  and  railroad  carriage,  the  refractory  ores  of  the 
SieiTas  would  become  valuable. 

The  Peavixe  Mines. — In  November,  186G,  several  tons  of  ores  from  this 
district  w'ero  brought  to  Sacramento  by  the  Central  Pacific  railroad,  which  passes 
within  three  miles  of  it,  being  the  first  shipment  from  the  Sien'as  by  railroad. 
The  total  cost  for  freight  by  railroad  and  steam1)oat  was  $12  per  ton. 

Two  of  Haskell's  water-lined  furnaces  have  since  been  erected  in  the  district, 
one  to  operate  for  silver,  the  other  for  copper,  but  neither  has  yet  been  completed. 
The  ores  are  chicfl\'  carbonates  and  silicates,  and  the  furnaces  will  probably  be 
able  to  reduce  them  to  a  portable  form  for  transportation.  As  they  contain  a 
per  centum  of  gold  and  silver  it  may  be  found  profitable  to  ship  them  to  Europe 
for  separation,  till  suitable  works  shall  be  erected  hero. 

An  excellent  map  of  this  district  has  been  published  by  A.  J.  Hatch,  deputy 
United  States  surveyor,  which  will  be  found  useful  for  reference. 

The  Mines  in  Arizona. — The  copper  mines  on  Williams  fork  of  the  Colo- 
rado have  been  partially  worked  this  year.  The  developments  have  been  satis- 
factory so  far  as  the  extent  of  the  lodes  and  the  grade  of  the  ores  are  concerned, 
but  the  difficulties  attending  smelting*  operations  for  want  of  furnace  materials 
and  fuel,  the  scarcity  of  means  for  transport,  the  high  cost  of  freights  from  the 
mines  to  market,  and  tlie  low  prices  paid  for  ores  have  caused  a  cessation  of  work 
or  confined  operations  to  a  limited  scale.  In  March  there  were  100  men  employed 
at  the  Central  and  Planet  mines,  and  about  150  about  the  works  at  Aubrey  City, 
nearly  all  of  whom  have  since  been  discharged. 

The  receipts  of  ores  from  these  mines  since  January  1,  18G7,  have  amounted 
to  1,1.5G  tons,  600  of  which  were  from  the  Planet  mine.  The  whole  quantity 
ranged  between  20  and  60  per  cent,  of  metal. 

The  ores  in  this  district  would  be  valuable  if  suitable  smelting  works  were 
erected  anj^where  on  this  coast,  as  they  are  chiefly  ctubonates,  silicates,  and 
oxides. 

The  Great  Central  Mine  contains  3,600  feet  on  two  parallel  lodes,  and 
several  hundred  feet  on  other  lodes  adjacent.  The  ore  is  abundant  and  of  good 
grade,  and  contains  some  gold  and  silver.  In  j\Iav  la.?t,  the  company  had  about 
2^00  tons,  averaging  2a  per  cent.,  and  50  tons  of  selected,  averaging  60  per  cent., 
lying  on  the  river  bank  awaiting  transportation.  One  of  the  smaller  lodes,  the 
"  Marion,"  at  the  dejith  of  75  feet  from  the  surface,  is  five  feet  wide,  composed 
of  oxides  of  iron  and  copper.  At  the  depth  of  125  feet  from  the  surface  the 
main  lode  exhibits  symptoms  of  sulphur.  This,  while  affording  evidence  of  the 
permanence  of  the  lode,  is  not  favorable  to  smelting  operations.  For  200  feet 
on  each  side  of  the  shaft  on  the  main  lode  (which  is  the  extent  of  its  explora- 
tion) it  is  found  to  be  from  five  to  seven  feet  wide. 

In  April  last  the  company  completed  a  furnace  capable  of  reducing  16  tons  of  ore 
in  24  hours,  and  made  about  50  tons  of  coarse  copper,  ranging^from  60  to  70  per 
cent.,  which  hiis  been  sent  to  New  York.     But  operations  ceased  in  June. 
The  Planet  Mi^te,  thougli  located  neai-  the  Great  Central,  contains  several 


WEST   OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  217 

lodos  and  deposits  of  oro  sopfirato  from  those  wovked  by  that  company,  and  yields 
ores  of  a  dill'erent  character.  In  ono  of  the  drifts  a  body  of  red,  forniginoiis,  cal- 
careous cement  was  found,  about  18  inches  thick,  but  otherwise  of  unknown 
extent,  which  contains  a  per  cent,  of  metallic  copper  in  the  form  of  line  spaiii^los 
and  ilakes,  beautifully  crystallized,  inipartin<T  a  peculiar  brilliancy  to  ea^di  Irac- 
ture  as  the  li<j^hts  of  the  minei"s  are  rollected  upon  the  i^'rains.  It  diilers  entirely 
from  other  copper  ores  found  on  the  coast.     There  arc  no  traces  of  sulphur. 

At  the  depth  of  80  foet,  in  the  main  shaft,  the  lode  is  composed  of  a  coarse 
JIalachite,  or  c-arbonate  of  copper,  nearly  ei<>;lit  feet  wide,  quite  com})act,  and 
})encilled  with  dark  shadinc^s  like  y-reen  marble.  Along  the  foot  wall  there  an; 
masses  of  chrysocolla,  or  silicate  t)f  copper — much  of  it  j)ossessini>*  gn^at  beauty — 
appearing'  like  bright  green  jasper,  elegantly  marbled  witii  darker  green  and  blue 
jiencillings.  Some  of  these  mas.-ies,  which  an*  susceptible  of  a  high  and  perma- 
nent polish,  would  be  valuable  for  ornamental  purposes. 

It  is  estimated  that  $100,000  worth  of  ores  have  btM,'n  sold  from  this  mine 
since  1862. 

Mineral  IIill  Mixe. — This  and  the  Empire  Flat  mine  arc  owned  by  Greon- 
man  &  Martin,  of  San  Francisco,  a  firm  long  engaged  in  the  purchase  of  copper 
ores  on  this  coast.  They  have  erected  two  furnac<>s  and  other  works,  with  a  30 
horse-jiower  steam  engine  to  run  the  necessary'  machiner}-,  at  Aubrey  City,  a  towa 
which  has  sprung  up  on  the  1)anks  of  the  river  sinco  the  opening  of  the  mines, 
having  expended  nearly  $100,000  in  opening  the  nunes,  building  a  wharf,  making 
n)ads,  &c. 

The  Springfield  Company  own  the  Punta  del  Cobre  mine,  and  several  lodes 
near  the  Great  Central  Company's  mine,  and  there  are  other  mines  of  probable 
value  in  the  district. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  these  mines,  after  having  been  brought  to  their  present 
stage  of  development  at  so  great  an  expense,  have  been  compelled  to  cease  ope- 
rations. Only  a  few  hands  are  now  employed  to  keep  the  property  in  order. 
The  furnaces  are  idle. 

The  following  details  of  the  expenses  of  transportation  from  the  Aubrey  mines 
may  be  useful  in  showing  that  some  of  the  causes  wliich  prevent  their  develop- 
ment may  be  removed. 

The  expenses  in  bringing  ores  from  the  mines  to  San  Francisco  sum  up  about. 
$25  per  ton  ;  this,  coupled  with  $15  per  ton  freight  to  Liverpool  or  New  York, 
makes  $40  per  ton,  without  calculating  insurance,  commission,  interest  on  capital, 
or  costs  for  mining,  which  swell  the  actual  cost  of  the  ore  to  $70  per  ton,  nearly 
equal  to  the  present  market  value  of  25  per  cent.  ore.  No  further  explanation 
is  necessary  to  show  why  it  is  unprofitable  to  ship  even  rich  ores  from  this  dis- 
trict. 

The  difficulties  in  the  way  of  smelting  are  as  discouraging  as  those  attending 
the  exportation  of  the  ores.  No  suitable  materials  so  far  as  known  can  be  had 
in  the  Temtory  of  which  to  construct  the  furnaces.  All  material  has  to  bo 
brought  from  California  at  a  great  expense  ;  steatite  from  El  Dorado  county  and 
sandstone  from  Catalina  island,  &:c.  Owing  to  the  depredations  of  the  Indians 
the  wood-cutters  were  unable  to  go  out  of  sight  of  the  settlement  to  obtain  wood 
'■or  charcoal,  the  supply  of  which  was  consequently  delicient,  the  quality  bad, 
*nd  the  expense  enormous ;  charcoal  made  of  iron  wood,  musquete,  and  cottun- 
^rood  costs  S50  per  ton.  The  total  product  of  copper  nuule  under  these  circmn- 
-Jtances  did  not  exce<^d  40  tons. 

Under  more  favorable  conditions  the  mines  might  be  made  profitable.  There 
are  places  along  the  river  banks  where  100,000  tons  of  carbonates  and  oxides 
of  copper,  averaging  18  per  cent,  of  that  metal,  could  be  quarried  like  marble; 
but  such  ores  are  valueless  at  present. 


218 


RESOURCES    OF   STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 


The  following  table  gives  tlie  exports  of  copper  regulus  and  ores  from  San 
Francisco  since  18G2 : 

Exports  of  copper  and  ores  since  1862. 


To  New  York. 

To  Boston. 

To  England. 

Total. 

Year. 

Ores. 

Copper 
regulus 

Ores. 

Copper 
regulus. 

Ores. 

Copper 
reguluB. 

Ores. 

Copper 
regulus. 

1862 

Tons. 

66 
1,  337 

4, 905  16-20 
4,  H6  3-20 
9, 962  8-20 
2, 633 

Tons. 

Tons. 
3, 574  16-20 

Tons. 


Tons. 

Tens. 

Tons. 
3,660  16-20 

Tons. 

1863 

4,208  15-16 

5,064 

9,050 

4,  536  13-20 

7  15-20 
264  7-20 
2.591  16-20 
12,  384  15-20 

1,878 

5,  553  10-20 
10,  234  3-20 
17  787  19-20 

1864 

1865 

25 
422 
178 

25 

1866 

1867 



80  10-20 

141  18-20 

96,  883  16-20  i  502  10-20 
4,511              31918-20 



23  070  7-20 

625  .26-  434  4-20    ! 

17, 126  13-20  !  222  R-20 

68,  631  4-20  ]  847  8-20 

The  above  table  exhibits  the  doline  in  the  exports  during  the  present  year. 
A  considerable  portion  of  that  which  has  been  shipped  has  not  paid  expenses, 
but  was  sent  under  contracts  previousl\'  made. 

COPPEPv-SMELTHfG  WORKS  ERECTED  OX  THE  PACIFIC  COAST. — The  follow- 
ing list  of  copper-smelting  works  erected  on  the  Pacific  coast,  though  not  com- 
plete, shows  the  extent  of  the  business  and  the  amount  of  capital  invested  in  its 
development : 

List  of  copper-smelting  works  erected  on  the  Pacijic  coast. 


Where  located. 


County. 


State. 


Plan. 


Cost. 


Antioch 

Copperopolia 

Waldo 

Gcnessee  Valley. 
James's  Ranch  . . 

Bear  Valley 

Xi'ar  Placerville. 
Hunter's  Valley. 

Near  AKhton 

Peavine  Hill 


Union , 

Queen  Bronze  . 
Cosmopolitan  . 


Buchanan  , 

Lyon's 

Peavine  . . . 


Williams  Fork Several 

Campo  Seco Campo  Seco . 


Contra  Costa. 

Calaveras 

Josephine  .... 

Plumas 

Mariposa 

....do 

El  l^orado 

Mariposa 

Colusa 

Storey 

"Josephine 


Calaveras 


California  . 

...do  

Oregon 

California  . 

....do 

.-..do  

...do  

...do  

...do  

Nevada  ... 

Orrgou 

Arizona . . . 
Calil'omia . 


Welsh  . .  . 

German . . 
....do  .... 

Local 

Haskell's. 
....do  .... 
....do  .... 

do 

....do.... 
....do  .... 

German.. 

Welsh..  . 
....do  .... 


$25,000 
75,000 
40,000 
30,000 
20,000 
20,000 
10,000 
20,000 
6,000 
10,000 
20,000 

100,  000 
30,000 


40S,  000 


*  Completed  June,  1867. 

• 

Several  concentrating  and  roasting  Avorks  have  also  been  erected  near  some 
of  the  copper  mines  at  considerable  expense.  The  concentrating  works  on  the 
Keystone  mine^  at  Coppcropolis,  cost  $50,000.  It  is  quite  fair  to  calculate  that 
$500,000  have  been  expended  in  the  construction  of  smelting  and  concentrating 
Avorks  on  this  coast  diu'ing  the  past  four  years,  nearly  all  of  which  has  proved  a 
loss  for  the  reasons  stated. 

Importation  of  Metallic  Copper. — The  increase  in  ship-building  on  tliis 
coast,  and  the  facilities  for  repairing  largo  vessels  by  the  construction  of  docks, 
&c.,  at  San  Francisco,  create  a  demand  for  sheathing-metal  and  nails.  The 
general  use  of  copper  plates  in  the  quaitz  mills  requires  a  large  supply  of  this 
metal,  as  much  of  it  is  destroyed  by  the  chemicals  used  in  the  processes  for  amal- 
gamating the  precious  metals.  The  increase  in  the  manufacture  of  machinery, 
in  the  construction  of  which  brass  forms  a  considerable  item,  and  of  articles 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  '219 

wholly  composed  of  copper  or  Lrass,  a  branch  of  business  wliich  gives  oinploy- 
ment  to  several  factories  and  foundries,  requires  a  constantly  increasing  supply 
of  this  metal. 

The  follow  ing  statement,  showing  the  imports  of  copper  during  1866  and  for  the 
first  six  months  of  1867,  embraces  only  the  rough  metal  and  sheets.  All  other 
fomis  in  which  it  is  imported  arc  included  under  the  head  of  general  merchan- 
dise. Though  voiy  in(;omplete,  and  confined  to  the  imports  received  at  San 
Francisco,  this  table  sliows  that  there  is  a  field  for  the  manufacture  of  copper  on 
flio  Pacific  coast  which  deserves  the  consideration  «f  capitalists. 

Imports  of  copper  at  San  Francisco  from  January  1,  18G6,  to  July  1,  18G7. 

RarP  niid  packapcs  :  In  18GG,  1,245;  in  LSO?,  242;  total,  1,487.  Cases  of  sheathing:  In 
)8«k),  l,2o;<;  ill  l^'^GT,  ;58(i ;  total,  1,589.  The  weight  aud  value  of  the  packaj^-es  are  not 
rotiuDcd  at  the  custom-house. 

TnEMANUFACTUKE  OF  SuLPHATE  OF  CopPEn  IN  CALIFORNIA. — The  annual 
consumption  (.)f  the  sidphate  of  copper  on  the  Pacific  coast  amounts  to  nearly 
500  tons.  The  jiresent  wholesale  price  is  $200  per  ton.  About  fom'-fifths  oi' 
total  quantity  inq3t)ited  is  used  in  the  processes  of  amalgamation.  The  greater 
])art  of  the  other  fifth,  or  about  100  tons,  is  used  by  farmers  for  soaking  wheat, 
&c. ;  sulphate  of  copper,  or  blue-stone,  as  it  is  generally  called,  bcuig  the  best 
know  n  [)reventive  of  rust  in  that  grain.  Till  recently  all  the  sulphate  of  cop- 
per used  here  was  inqiortcd,  chiefly  from  England.  At  present  there  is  sufficient 
made  in  San  Francisco  to  supply  the  demand.  Crane  &  Brigham,  a  firm  in  the 
drug  l)Hsiness,  have  been  eu::^aged  for  several  years  in  perfecting  a  plan  for  the 
manufiicture  of  this  article  from  the  sulphurets,  which  were  too  poor  to  i)ay  for 
export  or  concentration.  They  expended  nearly  $50,000  in  apparatus  and  expea-- 
iments,  and  obtained  a  patent  for  a  process  which  they  discovered  in  1864.  But 
the  costs  of  labor  and  strong  opposition  from  importers  made  it  an  unprofitable 
investment.  In  the  spring  of  18G7,  a  method  was  discovered  by  them  of  making 
tJiis  article  from  the  carbonates  and  oxides  brought  from  the  Williams  fork  of 
the  Colorado,  Arizona,  by  which  it  is  prepared  in  the  greatest  purity  at  a  cost 
below  that  for  which  it  can  be  profitably  imported.  The  San  Francisco  Refinery 
Works,  and  other  establishments  in  tliat  business,  of  which  there  are  several, 
also  make  quantities  of  the  sulphate  of  copper  as  a  by-product  of  their  chemical 
operations.  Under  these  circumstances  it  is  not  improbable  that  the  importation 
of  this  article  will  soon  cease. 

Iron. — The  failm-e,  till  recently,  to  discover  a  deposit  of  coal  on  this  coast 
suitable  for  smelting  purposes,  has  prevented  much  attention  being  paid  to  the 
bodies  of  iron  ores  which  are  scattered  throughout  California  and  Oregon.  But 
the  discovery  of  good  coal  in  Washington  Territory,  and  in  the  late  Russian  pos- 
sessions on  this  coast,  within  the  past  year  or  two,  has  brought  the  subject  of 
iron  smelting  into  noti(X).  The  consumption  of  pig,  bar,  plate,  and  every  other 
description  of  iron,  already  considerable,  must  increase  w'ith  the  progress  of  tlie 
States  and  Territories  on  this  side  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  the  importance 
of  this  metal  in  maimfactures  and  arts  inq)art,s  to  the  subject  an  interest  scarcely 
Second  to  that  attached  to  the  production  of  the  precious  metals. 

With  an  abundance  of  material  necessary  for  the  mamifacture  of  iron  at  their 
doors,  as  it  were,  it  is  scarwdy  })robable  the  people  of  this  coast  will  b(»  much 
longer  content  to  import  so  essential  an  element  of  prosperity  from  foreign 
coimtries. 

The  first  Iron-smelting  Works  on  the  Pacific. — Oregon  iy  entitled  to 
the  credit  of  having  ei'ected  the  first  iron-smelting  works  on  the  Pm-ific  const, 
tiiough  several  of  tlie  heaviest  stockholders  in  the  enterprise  ai"o  citizens  ef . 
California. 


220  KESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITOEIES 

The  Oregon  Iron  Works  are  located  at  Oswego,  about  nine  miles  soutlpof 
]*ortlan(l,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Willamette  river.  They  are  the  property  of 
an  incorporated  company,  having  a  capital  of  $500,000.  The  operations  of  this 
company  were  commenced  in  September,  1SG5.  In  1866  the  erection  of  the 
furnace  and  necessary  buildings  was  commenced,  and  completed  in  June,  1867. 
But  smelting  was  not  immediately  commenced,  in  consequence  of  an  insufficient 
quantity  of  charcoal,  the  fuel  intended  to  be  used.  The  de.'^truction  of  tho  com- 
pany's foundry  and  machine  shop  by  fire  on  tho  night  of  July  2,  which  involved 
a  loss  of  nearly  $100,000,  further  delayed  operations. 

The  furnaces  were  erected  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  G.  I).  Wilbur,  of  Con- 
necticut, and  arc  constructed  on  tlio  same  ])lan  as  those  in  general  use  in  that 
State.  They  are  built  of  the  basaltic  rock  which  underlies  the  ore.  This  mate- 
rial is  found  to  be  adapted  to  the  pm-jwse.  The  cupola  is  .32  feet  high,  and  the 
boslier  or  hearth  nine  feet  six  inches  in  diameter.  The  blast  (hot)  is  applied 
tlu'ough  three  tuyeres,  under  a  pressure  of  two  pounds  to  the  square  inch,  gene- 
lated  by  suitable  machinery  driven  by  water  power. 

The  charcoal  used  is  prepared  from  the  Oregon  fir,  which  has  been  found  by 
experiment  to  be  adapted  to  smelting  puqioscs,  and  is  very  compact,  weighing 
about  16  pounds  to  tho  bushel.  Contractors  supply  it  to  the  company  at  eiglit 
cents  per  bushel,  delivered  at  the  works.  It  is  calculated  the  furnace  m  ill  reduce 
nine  tons  of  ore  daily,  (24  hours,)  each  two  and  one-half  tons  of  which  being 
estimated  to  pi'oduce  one  ton  of  metal  in  pigs. 

The  first  pigs  cast  at  these  works,  and  consequently  on  the  Pacific  coast,  were 
made  on  the  24th  August,  1867,  when  about  six  tons  of  very  good  metal  were 
iTin  out.  The  ore  used  ranged  from  GO  to  65  per  cent.  The  furaaco  has  l)e<?n 
running  continuously  since,  producing  from  six  to  eight  tons  of  metal  per  day. 
About  80  men  are  employed  about  the  works  as  miners,  furnace  men,  teaii> 
Kters,  &c. 

Ou  the  1st  day  of  October  the  Oregon  Iron  Company  had  produced  224  tons 
of  pig  iron,  2,240  pounds  to  the  ton,  at  an  expense  as  follows : 

For  each  ton  (2,240  pounds)  iron  produced  there  were  used- — 

166  bushels  charcoal,  costing  at  furnace  8  cents 613  28 

884  pounds  lime,  costing  at  furnace  40  cents 3  53 

4,070  pounds  ore,  costing  at  furnace  $2  50  per  ton 5  50 

Labor  reducing  each  ton 6  67 

Total  cost  of  tho  pig  on  bank  of  river 28  98 

This  does  not  include  interest  on  capital,  or  State  and  county  taxes. 

A  sample  of  this  metal  was  received  at  San  Francisco  August  30,  1867, 
which,  after  thorough  tests  by  tho  various  foundries  ki  that  city,  was  pronounced 
a  superior  article. 

The  average  cost  of  importing  pig  iron  from  Europe  to  San  Francisco  is  about 
S40  per  ton,  ranging  from  $35  to  $45 ;  the  fluctuation  arising  from  tho  rates  of 
freight,  which  is  usually  fiiom  $12  50  to  $15  per  ton.  Occasionally  itisbrouglit 
by  French  and  German  vessels  at  a  lower  price,  as  these  vessels  generally  cany 
(uirgoesof  light  merchandise,  which  require  heavy  freight  as  ballast.  Thou^nal 
freight  from  Atlantic  ports  is  from  $12  to  $16  per  ton  in  currency. 

Within  the  pjist  yem-  small  parcels  of  pig  iron  have  been  received  from  Aus- 
tralia. Tho  Australian  iron  costs  about  $40  per  ton  in  gold,  delivered  on  tlie 
wharf. 

The  following  particulars  concerning  the  cost  of  producing  iron,  copied  fn)m 
the  report  of  the  United  States  Revenue  Commissioners  for  1865  and  1866,  will 
be  found  of  interest  in  tliis  oonncctiou.     It  vAW  bo  seen  bv  these  ficrures  that 


M 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  221 

\jInlo  it  is  quite  possible  to  make  iron  on  the  Pacific  coast  as  (cheaply  us  in  any 

(»ther  portion  of  tiie  United  Stiites,  it  c^mnot  be  made  as  cheaply  as  in  En<i;hin(l : 

Au  cstablislunent  capable  of  producing  in  tbo  Unilod  States  10,000  tons  of  finisbcd 
iron  per  uutinin  would  cost  for  ore,  letise«,  Itmds,  blast  furnaces,  mills,  houses, 
and  appurteuauces  necessary  for  tho  full  equipment,  from  tbo  ore  to  the  lin- 
islied  iron,  at  ilie  present  time $l,2r>0\000 

Capital  to  carry  it  on 7r)U,  000 

Total 2,000,000 

A  similar  one  in  Great  Britain  would  cost $riOO,OGO 

Capital  to  carry  it  on ;{00,  OOO 

Total 800,000 

Interest  on  $2,000,000  capital   invested  in  American  establishment  at  8  per 

cent $160,000 

On  800, 000  in  England  at  5  per  cent 40,000 

Leaving  a  balance  of  interest  against  American  manufactures  of 120, 000 


In  the  United  States  a  fair  average  cost  of  producing  pig  iron  is  not  loss  than  $35  per  ton. 
In  England  or  Wales  the  cost  of  producing  a  ton  of  pig  iron  averages  $14.  To  the  difference 
shown  by  the  figures  given,  it  is  just  to  add  the  difference  per  ton  caused  by  larger  interest 
on  the  greater  capital  invested  in  the  United  Slates.     (  Vide  report,  pages  :527  and  '.l'Z6.) 

Tliis  question  of  interest  on  capital  is  felt  more  severely  on  tho  Pacific  cojvst 
than  in  any  other  Stiite  in  the  Union,  and  forms  an  impediment  to  all  manuiac' 
t«res. 

In  the  ^ncinity  of  the  Oswego  'worlvB  are  numerons  beds  of  hydrous  sosqifi- 
oxide,  which,  according  to  estimates  based  on  careful  measurement,  contain  50,000 
tons.  This  ore  by  analysis  is  found  to  contain  from  46  to  56  per  cent,  metal. 
Nearly  one-lourth  of  these  beds  consists  of  solid  masses  of  ore,  the  remaindei" 
consisting  of  the  same  deposit  very  much  disintegrated  and  broken,  but  equally 
rich  in  metal. 

At  the  distance  of  two  and  one-half  miles  from  the  works  a  similar  body  of 
ore  lias  been  found,  which  measures  100  acres  superficially,  and  of  a  thickness 
varying  from  six  to  12  feet.  This  body  of  ue  .is  estimated  to  contain  several 
millions  of  tons.  Similar  bodies  of  ore  have  l)een  found  at  several  places  within 
nn  luea,  of  twenty  miles  of  the  works,  extending  as  far  as  St.  Helen's,  on  the 
Columbia  river.  In  every  case  where  these  deposits  of  ore  have  been  examined 
they  are  found  to  bo  imderlaid  by  volcanic  lava  and  ashes,  beneath  which  are 
heavy  beds  of  basaltic  rocks.  No  vein  or  deposit  of  the  ore  has  been  foimd  in 
this  basalt,  but  in  many  places  the  crevices  and  fissures  in  that  formation  are 
filled  with  scales  and  fragments  of  the  overlying  ore. 

These  bodies  of  ore  present  all  the  appearances  of  having  been  deposited  hi 
a  liquid  state,  in  indentations  that  existed  at  the  time  of  the  surface  of  the  basalt. 
The  whole  fonnation  has  subsequently  been  tilted  up  so  as  to  dip  t(}  the  east  at 
an  angle  of  about  10  degrees.  The  present  surface  of  the  ore  beds  is  covered 
witJj  a  deposit  of  sand,  gravel,  and  clay,  from  a  few  inches  to  10  feet  in  dej^th. 

Similar  bodies  of  ore  exist  in  the  vicinity  of  Mount  Vesuvius,  Italy,  which  are 
known  to  have  been  ejected  from  that  volcano  in  the  form  of  chloride  of  iroii 
and  subsequently  metamorphosed  to  its  present  form. 

Limonitc  is  never  foiuul  except  in  recent  or  secondary  geological  formations, 
li  is  the  most  valuable  of  all  the  ores  of  iron,  being  readily  c<jnvertiblo  into  steel. 
The  difference  between  limonite  and  hematite  consists  in  the  foniier  containing 
fix)m  15  to  20  per  cent,  of  its  weight  of  wat«r,  while  the  latter  contains  none. 
Limonite,  owing  to  this  ditference,  melts  at  a  considerably  lower  temperature  than 
hematite,  a  most  important  matter  in  a  country  where  fuel  is  expensive. 


222  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

An  analysis  of  this  Oregon  limonite,  made  by  Kellogg,  Huestou  &  Co^  of 
San  Francisco,  gave  the  following  results : 

Sesqui-oxide  of  iron 77.66 

Sloisture 11.16 

Silica 1.08 

Sulphur  and  phosphorus .10 

100.00 


Its  specific  gravity  is  4.2-').     By  actual  working,  on  the  large  scale,  it  yielded 
54.37  per  cent,  of  metal  in  pigs. 

The  extraction  of  the  ore  involves  but  little  expense,  as  it  is  all  near  the  sur- 
face. It  is  estimated  that  it  can  be  taken  out  and  delivered  at  the  furnace  at 
$1  50  per  ton. 

These  Oregon  iron  works  labor  under  a  disadvantage  in  having  no  limestone 
in  their  vicinity.  This  mineral  is  as  essential  in  smelting  operations  as  fuel  itself. 
All  the  limestone  used  has  to  be  brought  from  San  Juan  island,  and  costs  $6  per 
ton  delivered.  As  it  requires  one-third  as  much  of  this  mineral  as  of  the  ore  for 
smelting,  this  disadvantage  is  serious  in  point  of  expense. 

Irox  in  California. — Ever}'  description  of  iron  ores  is  known  to  exist  in 
California  in  abundance.  The  most  important  bodies  of  them  are  found  among 
the  foot-hills  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  mountains,  at  too  great  a  distance  from  the 
manufactm'ing  centres  to  admit  of  smelting  with  profit,  to  compete  with  importe4 
iron  at  places  along  the  coast  having  the  advantage  of  cheaper  supplies  from 
abroad.  The  heavy  cost  of  inland  transportation  from  these  central  marts  is  an 
advantage,  however,  in  supplying  a  local  demand,  because  transportation  upwards 
to  the  mountains  is  always  dearer  than  it  is  downwards  to  the  plains.  The  cost 
of  castings  received  in  the  mountains  from  San  Francisco  rarely  falls  below  $200 
per  ton;  it  is  generally  much  higher.  The  consumption  of  cast  iron  among  the 
quartz,  lumber,  grist,  and  other  mills  located  among  the  foot  hills  reaches  nearly 
2,000  tons  annually,  and  the  demand  is  limited  by  the  difficulty  in  suppl^nng  it. 

The  cost  of  erecting  smelting  works  on  a  scale  sufliciently  large  to  supply  the 
local  demand  need  not  exceed  a  few  thousand  dollars.  The  profits  of  such  an 
establishment  located  among  the  mines,  or  on  the  line  of  a  raikoad  connected  with 
the  mining  districts,  if  properly  conducted,  would  be  remunerative.  It  is  strange 
that,  with  such  facts  patent  to  capitalists,  works  of  this  kind  have  not  been  estab- 
lished at  points  where  materials  and  facilities  are  known  to  exist  for  canying 
them  on  to  advantage. 

The  following  particulars  concerning  bodies  of  iron  ores  found  in  this  State, 
which  have  been  examined  by  competent  persons,  will  be  useful  in  showing  the 
character,  importance,  and  location  of  these  deposits.  For  convenience  they  are 
divided  under  the  heads  of  specular,  hematite,  magnetic,  chromic,  titanic,  and 
mixed  ores. 

Spkcular  Iron  Ore. — Deposits  of  this  ore  have  been  discovered  a  few  miles 
north  of  the  town  of  Santa  Cruz,  75  miles  from  San  Francisco,  nem"  the  sea,  in 
the  Coast  range.     There  is  abundance  of  wood  and  limestone  in  the  vicinity. 

Also  on  Ult's  ranch,  six  miles  from  Auburn,  Placer  county,  in  the  foot  liills, 
45  miles  from  Sacramento. 

In  the  Coast  range,  in  San  Bernardino  county,  about  600  miles  from  Sacra- 
mento, is  another  deposit  of  this  ore. 

Also  at  Four  Hills,  a  h)cality  about  10  miles  northeast  from  Downieville, 
Sierra  county,  among  the  summits  of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  The  ore  at  this  place 
is  very  pure  and  abundant,  in  a  densely  timbered  country,  with  limestone  close 
at  hand. 


^t'r  \  \:^m^ 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  223 

PlunicOS  county,  also,  contains  valuable  bodies  of  tliis  ore.  On  the  siilo  of  a 
broad  canon  in  the  southern  portion  of  this  county,  in  sight  of  the  high  peaks  of 
the  Sierra  Nevada,  about  IG  miles  from  Downievillc,  SieiTa  county,  within  a 
couple  of  miles  of  the  line  of  the  proposed  Oroville  railroad,  there  is  an  iron 
mountain  composed  in  great  part  of  this  ore.  It  assays  from  40  to  70  per  cent. 
metal.  l*arties  luive  pre-emj)tod  320  acres  of  the  land  embracing  the  mountain 
for  the  purpose  of  working  it  as  an  iron  mine.  It  is  intended  to  ci'ect  smelting 
works  on  tlie  ground  during  the  present  fall.  Wood,  water,  and  limestone  are 
close  at  hand,  and  the  Beckwith  Pjvss  wagon  road  runs  within  a  mile  of  the  claim. 
There  ai'e  deposits  at  other  places,  but  the  above  are  among  the  most  acces- 
sible. 

Specular  iron  ore  is  somewhat  similar  in  composition  to  red  hematite,  bnt  is 
readily  distinguished  from  that  ore  by  breakmg  with  a  bright  metallic  fracture, 
almost  like  cast  iron,  to  which  peculiarity  it  owes  its  name.  Like  hematite,  it 
is  of  volcanic  origin.  The  ores  of  Pilot  Knob  and  Iron  Mountain,  Missouri, 
belong  to  this  class.  It  requires  a  much  greater  heut  to  smelt  specular  iron  ores 
than  any  others  of  that  metal;  this  trait  is  important  on  this  coast.  The  iron 
made  from  this  ore  is  the  best  known,  when  properly  made. 

Magnetic  Iron  Ores. — The  most  important,  because  the  most  convenient, 
body  of  this  ore  in  California  exists  on  the  line  of  the  Central  Pacific  railroad, 
near  Clipi)er  Gap,  where  there  is  a  mountain  of  considerable  proportions  com- 
posed almost  wholly  of  the  variety  known  in  Germany  as  ''  spiegelien,"  from 
which  steel  is  made  with  so  much  facility  in  that  country  by  the  Bessemer  pro- 
cess. 

The  advantages  of  having  a  plenty  of  wood,  water,  building  materials,  and 
fire-clay  for  furnace  purposes,  and  limestone  for  flux,  and  a  railroad  mnning  close 
by,  have  induced  an  attempt  to  erect  smelting  works  in  the  vicinity.  Robinson, 
Brown  &:  Co.'s  iron  mines  are  located  here,  about  three  miles  from  the  rail- 
road and  three  miles  from  Bear  river.  These  mines  were  located  and  patents  fov 
the  land  from  the  federal  government  applied  for  in  May,  1SG6.  The  company 
purchased  the  title  of  the  railroad  to  the  even  sections  of  the  land,  to  the  extent 
of  about  1,500  acres.  The  greater  portion  of  this  land  is  well  covered  with 
timber  suitable  for  charcoal.  The  ore  crops  out  from  the  mountain  in  many 
places.  There  are  two  qualities  in  the  deposit;  on  the  cast  side  it  is  highly 
magnetic,  while  on  the  west  it  is  very  much  like  the  Oregon  limonito.  Assays 
made  by  Kellogg  &  Hueston,  of  San  Francisco,  in  March,  1866,  gave  the  fol- 
lowing results:  the  magnetic  ore,  64.37  per  cent,  metal;  the  hematite,  44.67 
per  cent,  metal.  A  specimen  sent  to  Professor  Jackson,  of  Boston,  Massachu- 
setts, was  analyzed  by  that  gentleman,  who  states  in  the  report  on  the  subject 
that  it  contains  no  phosphorus,  sulphur,  titanium,  or  other  substance  injurious 
to  the  manufacture  of  iron. 

A  tunnel  has  been  cut  in  the  side  of  the  mountain  to  tost  the  thickness  of  the 
stratum.  At  the  time  of  our  visit,  in  June,  1867,  it  had  been  run  for  30  feet, 
with  no  signs  of  the  end.  On  the  oj)posite  side,  where  there  were  no  croppings 
near  the  surface,  a  shaft  was  sunk  15  feet ;  at  that  dejJth  they  struck  good  ore. 
Estimates  as  to  the  probable  expenses  of  making  pig  iron  at  this  locality  and 
delivering  it  at  San  Francistx)  show  that  charcoal  can  be  made  and  delivered  at 
the  furnace  for  12.J  cents  per  bushel,  (the  Oregon  works  pay  8  cents;)  the  lime 
will  cost  .82  per  ton ;  the  total  cost  for  labor,  materials,  and  interest  on  ca])iuil 
reaching  S20  per  ton,  to  which  must  be  added  $6  per  ton  for  tran8]iort  to  San 
Francisco  by  railroad  and  steamer.  The  average  cost  of  pig  iron  in  that  city 
during  the  past  three  years  has  been  $41  50,  landed  on  the  wharf.  Its  price  at 
present  is  fri>m  $47  to  S50  per  ton.  The  mines  are  40  miles  distant  from  Sacra- 
mento by  railroad. 

Arrangements  have  been  made  with  the  firm  of  Cofiee,  Risdon  &  Co.  to  erect 


224  RESOtlRCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

one  of  Haskell's  patent  water-lined  cnpola  fnrnaces,  to  test  the  working  qualities 
of  tlie  ore.     This  furnace  was  to  have  been  completed  in  August. 

The  parties  interested  in  the  enterprise,  being  men  of  limited  capital,  are  not 
prepared  to  conduct  operations  on  a  sciile  to  insure  success.  It  would  be  to  the 
l)enerit  of  the  State  if  capitalists  would  take  hold  of  the  business. 

Bodies  of  ore  of  a  similar  chai'acter  exist  near  Gold  lake,  Sierra  county,  in 
the  vicinit}'  of  the  line  of  the  Central  Pacific  railroad. 

A  deposit  of  fine  magnetic  iron  ore  was  discovered  in  the  summer  of  18C7  on 
Grouse  lidge,  14  miles  from  Wasliington,  Nevada  county.  This  ore  is  energeti- 
(vxlly  magnetic — so  much  so  as  to  lift  knives  or  nails — and  is  said  to  contain  suffi- 
cient gold  to  pay  for  extracting  that  meta,l  from  it. 

In  the  summer  of  1867  a  body  of  magnetic  iron  was  discovered  near  Chap- 
paral  Hill,  Butte  county,  near  the  Grizzly,  a  tributary  of  the  Butte  creek,  about 
40  miles  from  Oroville,  on  the  Susanville  road.  The  ore  is  found  in  a  locality 
wliere  the  slate  and  granite  formations  unite.  Some  portions  of  it  are  so  mag- 
netic that  fragments  broken  off  can  be  lifted  by  the  larger  pieces.  It  was  this 
peculiarity  that  led  to  its  discovery.  An  analysis  made  by  Kellogg,  Hueston 
&  Co.,  of  San  Francisco,  yielded  65  per  cent,  of  metal.  The  deposit  is  in  the 
foma  of  a  stratum  or  bed  of  unknown  thickness  and  extent.  In  July  a  shaft 
had  been  cut  to  the  depth  of  20  feet  without  passing  through  it.  It  had  been 
traced  300  feet  in  length  by  neai'ly  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  width.  Being  located 
on  a  densely  timbered  hill,  covered  with  broken  slate,  it  was  not  convenient  to 
trace  it  to  its  full  extent.  There  is  abundance  of  wood,  water,  and  limestone  in 
the  vicinity. 

Bodies  of  similar  ores  are  found  in  the  Santa  Inez  valley,  in  the  San  Rafael 
district,  Santa  Barbara  cotmty,  about  450  miles  from  Sacramento. 

Magnetic  iron  ore  or  magnetite  is  one  of  the  most  extensively  distributed  and 
valuable  of  that  metal  found  on  this  coast.  It  contains  a  larger  per  centum  of 
metal  than  any  of  the  other  ores;  when  pure  it  generally  contains  from  00  to 
70  ])er  cent.  It  is  changed  in  many  places  into  specular  ore  by  the  addition  of 
oxygen,  which  it  absorbs  from  the  atmosphere. 

Hkmatite  Ores  of  Ikon. — There  ai-e  large  bodies  of  siraonite,  identical  in 
composition  with  the  ores  found  at  Oswego,  Oregon,  on  the  banks  of  Spring 
cicek,  a  few  miles  west  of  Shasta  City — at  an  elevation  of  nearly  6,000  feet 
above  the  sea — among  the  granita  peaks  of  the  SieiTa  Nevada,  about  180  miles 
from  Sacramento. 

A  deposit  of  red  hematite  was  discovered  in  March  last  on  the  ranch  belong- 
ing to  the  Sisters  of  Charity,  about  16  miles  from  the  city  of  Los  Angeles.  The 
ore  presents  itself  on  the  surface  for  nearly  a  mile  in  a  stratum  averaging  15 
f(^t  thick,  enclosed  in  hard  metamoi-phosed  clay  slate. 

CiiROxnc  Iron  Ores. — This  class  of  ores,  so  rare  and  valuable  in  the  Atlantic 
States,  is  abundant  on  this  coast,  being  found  in  the  Coast  range,  the  foot  hills, 
and  among  the  Sierra  Nevada.'^,  wherever  there  is  serpentine  in  the  country. 
Among  the  most  important  deposits  of  it  are  the  8catt<»red  and  broken  masses 
which  (vover  the  ground  for  miles  in  the  vicinity  of  the  New  Idria  Quicksilvei 
mine,  in  Santa  Clara  county.  There  is  another  body  of  it  cresting  the  ridge 
which  forms  the  boundary  line  between  Monterey  and  Fresno  counties.  In 
Tuolumne  county,  near  the  Crimea  House,  ai-e  deposits  which  are  found  between 
the  strata  of  talcoso  slate,  lying  in  a  vertical  position,  the  weathered  portionf 
of  which  stand  out  from, the  sunounding  liills  like  timibstones  in  a  grave- 
}ju-d. 

In  Del  Norte  county  to  the  north  of  the  copper  mines  on  the  '^  Low  Divide,"  there 
is  a  peculiar  deposit  of  chromic  iron  disseminated  through  the  serpentine,  which 
constitutes  the  greater  portion  of  the  couiatry  thereiiboutti.  This  ore  weathera 
into  round  grains  like  shot,  from  the  size  of  a  pin-head  to  a  four-pounder,  and  is 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  225 

appropriately  called  iron-shot  by  tlic  minors  in  the  vicmity,  who  find  abundance 
oi"  it  in  the  sluices  when  washing  up. 

There  is  another  body  of  chromic  iron  in  Del  Norte  county,  of  different  appear- 
ance, on  Smith's  river,  about  20  miles  from  Crescent  City.  This  ore  is  compact, 
and  as  black  as  jet. 

In  San  Bernardino  county  there  are  extensive  deposits  of  this  ore  along  the 
coast,  some  of  which  contain  fine  specimens  of  vauciuelinito  chroniate  of  lead  and 
copper. 

On  the  south  side  of  San  Diego  gnlcli,  Calaveras  county,  on  the  crest  of  the 
highest  hill,  oi>posite  the  Noble  Copper  mine,  there  is  an  isolated  mass  of  this  ore 
that  will  weigh  thousands  of  tons,  which  surmounts  a  rather  singular  formation. 
A  tunnel  run  in  the  hill  beneath,  in  search  of  copper,  cut  througli  several  wide 
strata  of  serpentine,  brucite,  talc,  and  other  magnesian  minerals.  Chromic  iron, 
or  chromate  of  iron,  is  of  considerabh;  importance  in  the  arts,  but  not  as  a  source 
for  obtaining  the  metal.  Though  abundant  on  this  coast,  it  is  very  rare  in  the 
Atlantic  States  and  Europe.  EngUmd  contains  scarcely  any;  that  countiy 
imports  about  /),000  tons  annually,  for  the  purpose  of  manufacturing  the  various 
compounds  of  chromium,  used  in  calico  in-inting,  painting  porcelain,  making 
pigments,  chromic;  acid,  &c.  A  large  quantity  was  formerly  shipped  to  England 
from  the  Barehllls,  near  Baltimore,  ]\Iaryland,  where  the  most  valuable  deposit 
en  the  Atlantic  side  exsits.  With  cheap  transportation  and  labor  this  ore  would 
pay  to  export. 

Titanic  Iron  Ore  is  generally  found  on  this  coast  in  the  form  of  fine  grains, 
foi-ming  the  gre^^ter  portion  of  the  "  black  sand,"  so  difficult  to  separate  from  the 
fine  gold  obta,ined  from  the  alluvial  washings.  All  volcanic  rocks  contain  titanic 
iron  in  the  form  of  grain.s.  As  these  rocks  disintegrate  the  grains  are  set  free. 
There  are  several  varieties  of  titaniferous  iron  in  the  grains,  most  of  which  are  mag- 
netic. It  has  been  found  in  a  number  of  thin  scams  in  trap,  in  El  Dorado 
county,  near  Diamond  Springs. 

Some  excitement  was  created  in  San  Francisco,  about  a  year  since,  by  the 
discovery  of  titanic  kon  in  the  sand  on  the  beach  within  the  harbor.  Small 
quantities  of  it  were  collected,  and  some  of  it  smelted,  under  the  impression  that 
it  would  make  pig-iron,  and  that  there  was  a  "  lead"  of  it  in  the  vicinity.  The 
above  explaimtion  of  its  source)  shows  how  unreasonable  such  conclusions  were. 

Mixed  Ores  of  Iron. — There  is  a  body  of  iron  ore  on  Pratt's  Hill,  near  lone, 
Amador  county,  on  the  border  of  the  Sacramento  valle^',  which  does  not  belong 
to  any  of  the  varieties  above  described.  It  is  of  an  earthy  nature,  and  evidently 
of  sedimentary  origin,  forming  a  stratum  nearly  20  feet  thick,  extending  for  a 
mile  near  the  top  of  a  lode  blufl",  which  projects  into  the  valley.  It  contains  a 
large  per  centum  of  iron.  In  several  localities  along  the  margin  of  the  San 
Joaquin  and  Sacramento  valleys  there  are  deposits  of  iron  ores  in  the  form  of 
ochres.  It  is  not  necessary  to  give  details,  as  there  are  such  abundant  sources  for 
obtaining  better  ores;  they  wiU  be  described  imdcr  the  head  of  ''clays,"  &c.  _ 

Iron  Ores  in  Nevada. — The  surveyors  employed  by  the  Central  Pacific 
Railroad  Company  report  the  discovery  of  extensive  beds  of  magnetic  iron  ore 
within  a  short  distance  of  the  line  of  that  road,  near  Crystal  Springs.  Also  at 
Neilsburg,  within  a  mile  of  the  road,  and  at  Long  Valley.  There  are  many  other 
districts  in  Nevada  which  contain  u'on  ore.  There  is  a  series  of  regular  veins  of 
specular-  ore,  from  8  to  20  feet  thick,  near  the  east  fork  of  Walkei-'s  river,  in 
Esmeralda  county. 

Iron  Ores  in' Utah. — This  Territory  abounds  in  iron  ores.  There  are  several 
deposits  of  carbonate  of  iron  within  20  miles  of  Salt  Lake  City. 

Iron  Ores  in  Arizona. — The  abundance  of  nearly  all  kinds  of  iron  ores  in 
this  Territory  is  quite  remarkable.  Whole  ranges  of  mountains  along  the  Colorado 
are  in  great  part  composed  of  them.  The  copper  mines  at  Williams  fork  are 
15 


226  EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITOEIES 

suiToimdecl  witli  beds  of  iron  ores.  In  the  Mineral  Hill  and  Planet  mines  the 
ores  are  pure  oxides  of  iron  and  copper.  Several  of  the  tunnels  run  in  working 
these  mines  have  been  cut  through  solid  beds  of  iron  ore.  The  wall  rock  enclosing 
nearly  all  the  copper  lodes  are  of  the  same  mineral. 

Concluding  Remauks  on  Ores. — The  above  examples,  selected  from  a  great 
number  of  a  similar  character,  are  sufficient  to  show  the  abundance  of  the  ores  of 
iron  on  the  Pacific  coast,  particularly  in  California,  and  the  advantage  that  State 
possesses  in  having  furnace  materials  and  limestone  convenient  to  the  mines. 

It  will  be  observed  by  reference  to  the  analyses  that  the  "  lay/'  or  per  centum 
of  metal  in  the  ores  found  on  this  coast,  ranges  from  4G  to  80,  or  an  average  of 
upwards  of  50.  This,  however,  is  applicable  only  to  the  higher  grades.  Accord- 
^ing  to  the  government  returns,  published  in  England,  the  ores  obtained  from  the 
mines  in  Wales  do  not  exceed  33  per  cent.,  and  tliose  from  the  mines  in  Stafford- 
shire, the  great  ii'on  district  of  England,  do  not  exceed  30  per  cent.  Most  of 
the  ores  found  in  that  country  require  roasting  as  a  preliminary  process,  owing  to 
their  containing  deleterious  elements.  The  ores  on  this  coast,  being  nearly  all 
oxide,  can  be  smelted  at  one  opei\ation,  and  will  produce  a  very  pure  metal. 

The  Consumption  of  Iron  in  California. — The  consumption  of  iron  in 
this  State  is  large,  and  constantly  increasing.  The  imports  of  crude  metal,  given 
in  the  accompanying  table,  constitute  but  a  portion  of  the  total  quantity  used,  as 
much  of  it  is  obtained  by  remclting  worn-out  or  useless  machinery,  and  other 
articles,  of  which  there  are  many  thousands  of  tons  in  the  State. 

San  Francisco  is  the  centre  of  this  trade.  In  addition  to  supplying  California, 
as  the  following  table  will  show,  iron  and  machinery  are  exported  to  Nevada, 
and  the  adjoining  Temtories,  the  Sandwich  Islands,  Mexico,  British  Columbia, 
and  other  countries. 

The  following  list  of  foundries  and  machine  shops  in  San  Francisco  will  convey 
an  idea  of  the  proportions  of  this  business  there.  There  are  also  23  other  foundries 
in  California,  and  six  in  Nevada.  The  establishments  at  Sacramento,  Nevada 
City,  Marysville,  Stockton,  Sonora,and  one  or  two  others,  are  able  to  make  almost 
any  description  of  machinery. 

Iron  Foundries  in  San  Francisco. — The  Vulcan  covers  the  block  embraced 
by  137  feet  on  Fremont  street,  and  running  275  feet  to  Beal*street,  and  extending 
thence  to  Mission  street.  On  this  block  there  are  brick  and  frame  buildings, 
suitable  for  an  extensive  business.  Every  description  of  machinery,  from  a  cofi'ee- 
roaster  to  a  locomotive,  including  boilers,  and  everything  complete,  is  made 
here.  Many  improvements  in  the  manufactare  of  engines  and  boilers  have  been 
introduced  in  this  establishment.  Most  of  the  machinery  used  at  the  Mission 
woollen  mills  was  made  here,  as  was  also  the  machinery  for  the  mints  at  Mexico 
and  British  Columbia.  The  most  powerful  engines  in  use  on' the  Comstock 
lode,  Nevada,  were  also  made  here.  A  few  months  since  a  quartz  mill  was  made 
here  and  shipped  to  Nicaragua,  and  a  pumping  engine  for  use  on  a  mine  at 
Parquiqua,  Bolivia.  The  capacity  of  the  furnaces  at  this  foundry  is  sufficient  to 
melt  35  tons  of  metal.     Nearly  100  men  are  employed  on  the  premises. 

The  Fulton  is  located  on  First  street,  and  employs  about  50  moulders,  doing 
an  extensive  business  in  architectural  casting;  machinery  of  all  kinds  is  also  made. 

The  Ettia  is  a  similar  estiiblishment  to  the  Vulcan,  but  on  a  somewhat  smaller 
scalp.  It  has  facilities  for  melting  six  tons  of  metal.  It  is  located  on  Fremont 
street. 

The  Franklin  is  also  located  on  Fremont  street.  The  engine  used  for  print- 
ing the  Evening  BuUetin  was  made  at  this  establishment.  It  has  conveniences 
for  melting  10  tons  of  metal,  and  employs  25  men. 

The  Golden  State  is  located  on  First  street,  and  is  of  about  the  same  capacity 
as  the  Franklin. 

The  Pacific  is  an  establishment  reaching  from  Fu'st  to  Fremont  street.     It  was 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  227 

ComiTM^ncocl  in  1850.  The  building's,  chiefly  constructed  of  brick,  cover  two  50- 
vara  lots.  The  machinery  lor  the  new  rolling- mills  was  madehere,  the  Hy-whoel 
for  which  weighs  25  tons.     It  can  melt  20  tons,  and  employs  about  75  men. 

The  Miwri,-'  is  also  on  First  street,  and  extends  through  to  Fremont.  It 
employs  about  250  men,  and  can  turn  out  a  20-stamp  mill,  boiler  and  all  com- 
plete, in  30  days.  The  iron  castings  for  the  State  capitol,  at  Sacramento,  were 
made  here. 

The  San  Fraticisco  is  located  at  the  corner  of  Fremont  and  I\Iission  streets, 
where  it  covers  a  fifty-vara  lot.  All  descriptions  of  machinery  i;re  made  here. 
It  can  melt  15  tons  of  metal,  and  employs  about  40  men. 

The  Citi/  Iron  W&rl's  are  located  on  Fremont  street.  Employ  about  20 
Lands.  Considerable  machinery  for  the  Sandwich  Island  sugar-mills  ha.^  been 
made  here. 

The  California  Foundry  is  also  on  Fremont  street.  This  establishment  does 
an  extensive  business  in  architectm'al  castings,  which  it  makes  a  specialty.  The 
fronts  of  several  of  the  most  elegant  buildings  in  the  city  were  cast  here.  It  has 
facilities  for  melting  six  tons  of  metal,  and  employs  about  20  hands. 

The  Union  Fottndri/,  corner  First  and  ]\Iission  streets,  is  the  oldest  and  largest 
establishment  of  the  kind  on  this  coast.  It  was  commenced  in  1849.  The 
buildings  include  a  three-story  brick,  having  a  frontage  of  187  feet  on  First  street, 
extending  275  feet,  and  fronting  120  feet  on  Mission,  the  whole  covering  nearly 
50,000  feet;  300  men  are  employed  here.  The  machinery  for  the  United  States 
steamer  Saginaw  was  made  at  this  fwmdry.  The  fii'st  locomotive  made  on  this 
coast  was  cast  and  finished  here. 

The  Atlas  Iron  WorJcs  arc  located  on  Fremont  street.  They  are  chiefly 
engaged  in  casting  for  agricultm'al  purposes.  Can  melt  seven  tons  of  metal,  and 
employs  about  30  men. 

The  JacJc^on  Foumlry  is  located  on  Jackson  street.  Its  operations  are  con- 
fined to  casting  stoves,  ornamental  railing,  and  other  light  and  fancy  goods. 
The  ranges  used  in  nearly  all  the  first-class  hotels  in  the  city  were  made  here. 
It  gives  employment  to  about  30  men. 

The  Empire  Foundry  is  on  Mission  street,  near  Beale.  All  descriptions  of 
machinery  and  castings  ai'e  made  here.     It  employs  30  men. 

It  is  within  limits  to  estimate  the  consumption  of  iron  in  California  and  the  States 
and  TeiTitories  dependent  on  it  for  supplies,  at  30,000  tons  annually.  The  b'o^i- 
ness  gives  employment  to  nearly  3,000  men.  There  are  30  machine-shops  in 
San  Francisco,  in  addition  to  those  connected  with  the  above-named  foundries. 

The  largest  iron  vessel  ever  cast  in  the  United  'States  was  made  at  the  Union 
Foundry  in  1861.  It  was  a  shallow  pan,  capable  of  holding  1,310  gallons,  and 
weighed  8,114  pounds.     It  was  for  use  in  one  of  the  local  soap  factories. 

A  rolling-mill  and  steam  forging  establishment  has  recently  been  completed 
at  San  Francisco,  with  machiner}^  and  apparatus  for  making  every  description 
of  bar  and  rod  iron,  from  one-fourth  of  an  inch  diameter,  and  one-eighth  of  an 
inch  thick,  to  12  inches  wide,  of  any  shape  required  by  manufacturers,  including 
all  sizes  and  })attems  of  railroad  iron.  This  establishment  furnishes  a  market 
for  all  the  scrap  iron  that  can  be  obtained.  It  is  proposed  to  erect  puddling 
fm-naces  for  converting  cast  into  malleable  iron,  as  the  supply  of  materials  is  not 
equal  to  the  demand. 

The  above  facts  are  sufficient  to  show  that  there  exist  on  the  Pacific  coast  a 
fair  deuiand  for  iron  and  some  facilities  for  its  manufactm-e. 


: 


228 


RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 


Imports  of  xrmi  f chiefly  railroad)  into  San  Francisco  during  1866,  and  first  six 

montJis  of  1867. 


Description. 


186G. 


18G7. 


Pig  iron,  tons  ...... 

Bars 

Bars,  bundles 

Pipes 

Pipes,  bundles 

Hoops,  &c.,  bundles 

Hoops,  cases 

Sheets,  bundles 

Siieets,  cases 

Plates 


9,388 

2,063 

57,  ?.G8 

100, 378 

40,  088 

30, 229 

18,278 

14,429 

14,r)84 

7,451 

31,985 

19,  G07 

395 

394 

21,G04 

4,048 

331 

121 

7,622 

10,134 

Exports  of  iron  and  machinery  from  San  Francisco  during  1866,  and  first  six 

•months  of  1867. 


Articles. 

d 
c 

(O 

6 

To  Sandwich 
islands. 

6 

a 

0 
0 

0 
0 
H 

03 

2 

1866. 

1867. 

18G6. 

1867. 

1866. 

1867. 

186G. 

18G7. 

Iron,  bars 

1,577 

648 

500 
229 

2,012 

432 

10 

14 

383 

"i-y 

300 
37 

77 
.    167 

8'3 
16 

133 

Iron,  bundles 

18 

33 
177 

254 
120 

'"27" 
121 

23 
5 

8 

2 

30 

Pipes,  pieces .. . 

12 

98 

Castings,  pieces .. 

S«5 

40 

2,  482 

889 

396 

107 

Plates 

14 

47 

155' 

56 

54 

2U7 

19 

Machinery,  packages 

2,  34-2 
1,108 

7 

Coal. — The  im^Dortance  of  coal  as  an  element  of  national  and  rocal  prosperity 
is  so  generally  recognized,  that  it  is  unnecessary  to  make  any  remarks  touching 
the  advantages  of  an  abundant  supply.  But  the  relative  value  of  the  several 
varieties  of  coal  for  domestic  and  manufacturing  purposes  not  being  so  generally 
understood,  may  render  some  ex})lanations  on  this  point  appropriate. 

The  varieties  of  coal  to  which  England  owes  its  prosperity,  and  which  are  so 
abundant  in  Pennsylvania  and  other  Atlantic  States,  do  not  exist,  or  at  all  events 
have  not  been  found,  on  the  Pacilic  coast.  But  there  are  extensive  beds  of  other 
vai'ieties,  which  diiler  as  much  in  their  composition  and  heating  qualities  as  the 
coals  of  otlier  countries  differ  froni  each  other.  In  the  northern  parts  of  the  coast 
the  coal  is  as  superior  to  that  found  at  Mount  Diablo  and  further  south  as  the 
\V(dch  coal  is  to  the  Scotch,  or  the  Pennsylvania  anthracite  to  that  found  in 
Ireland. 

Modern  geologists  have  abandoned  the  idea  that  coal,  to  be  of  good  quality, 
must  be  found  in  one  particular  fonnation.     Experience,  the  most  reliable  guide, 


i 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


229 


contradicts  such  a  theory.  Rcsoarchos  in  India,  China,  Australia,  New  Zeahmd, 
Chili,  and  on  this  coast,  prove  that  good  coal,  adapted  to  nearly  all  purposes,  is 
found  outside  of  the  carboniferons  formation.  Science  has  failed  to  demonstrate 
that  g-ood  coal  may  not  bo  found  in  any  geological  formation.  There  are  inany 
reasons  for  believing  that  when  the  mines  on  this  coast  shall  be  worked  to  a 
depth  approaching  that  of  the  mines  in  other  countries,  the  quality  of  the  coal 
Mill  be  found  to  bear  a  favorable  comparison.  Analyses  made  by  Professor 
Blake  and  other  scientific  gentlemen,  of  ccval  taken  at  a  greater  depth  than  the 
sam]des  tested  by  Professor  Whitney,  in  18G1  and  1862,  shortly  after  the  Cali- 
fornia mines  were  opened,  exhibit  a  marked  improvement. 

The  following  reports  exhibit  the  change  iu  c.-mposition  of  the  Mount  Diablo 
coal  as  the  depth  of  the  mines  increases  : 

A)iaJi/sis  of  sample  of  coal  fram  nttsburg  mine,  talccn  from  tliiclc  scam,  600  feet 
from  surface,  in  1867,  by  Professor  W.  P.  Blake. 

Moisture 3. 28 

Bitumiuous  matter 47.  05 

Fixed  carbon 44.90 

Ashes 4.71 

99.94 


There  was  no  ti'ace  of  sulphiu'  in  the  sample. 

Analysis  of  coal  taJcen  800  feet  hcloio  surface  on  tlic  incline  in  Black  Biamond 
mine,  in  May,  1867,  by  Professor  Price,  superintending  chemist  to  Golden  City 
CJiemical  Works,  and  to  San  Francisco  Pejining  Works,  d'c.,  dx. 

Moisture 9, 54 

Ashes 8.25 

Sulphur 3.25 

Oxygen  and  nitrogen 20. 50 

Hydrogen 3.75 

Curbon 54.71 

100.  00 


Analysis  of  Mount  Diablo  coal,  taken  from  near  surface,  in  1861  and  1862,  by 
Professor  Wliittiey,  State  geologist  of  Calfornia. 


'a 

r3 

^ 

<D 

a 

o 

3 

05 

.9 

S 

=3    » 

P-S 

oi 

a 

w§ 

_00 

■%-a 

o 
o 

■sa 

o 

« 

03 

p 

o 

o 

n 

o 

Oh 

O 

Water 

13.47 

40.36 

40.  G5 

5.52 

14.  G9 

33.  89 

4(5.  84 

4.58 

13.84 

40. 27 

44.  92 

0.97 

14.13 

37.38 

44.  55 

3.94 

20. 53 

Bituminous  matter 

35.62 

Fixed  carbon 

36.35 

Ash 

7.50 

It  will  be  seen  by  comparing  these  reports  that  the  proportion  of  moisture  in 
this  coal  is  much  less  in  the  recently  examined  sample.  This  change  in  com- 
position increases  the  power  of  the  coal  for  generating  steam  and  other  purjioses 
at  least  25  per  cent.  It  was  the  excess  of  moisture  in  the  coal  taken  from  near 
the  surface  that  caused  it  to  ci-umble  on  exposme  to  the  air,  or  when  thrown  into 


230 


KESOURCES   OF   STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 


the  fire.  These  defects  decreasing  witli  increased  depth  of  the  mines,  the  value 
of  the  c-oal  increases  in  proportion.* 

Tliere  is  a  very  material  diflerence,  however,  in  the  quality  of  the  coal  taken 
from  each  of  the  seams  in  the  Mount  Diablo  mines,  as  well  as  between  this  coal 
and  that  obtained  from  other  mines  on  the  coast,  leading  to  the  inference  that 
each  is  separate  in  origin. 

The  Clark  or  upper  seam  at  Mount  Diablo  is  enclosed  in  soft  sandstone  above 
and  below,  with  scarcely  any  shale  or  slate.  The  Bleach  Diamond,  or  lower 
seam,  is  overlaid  by  three  or  four  feet  of  slate  and  shale,  and  underlaid  by  two 
seams  of  tough  clay,  separated  by  slate  highly  charged  with  sulphur,  while  the 
coal  is  comparatively  iree  from  that  element.  The  middle  seam  is  divided  by 
slate  and  contains  a  large  per  cent,  of  sulphur. 

The  following  are  the  prominent  traits  of  the  coal  found  on  this  coast:  The 
Mount  Diablo,  California,  is  an  inferior  quality  of  coal,  but  answers  tolerably 
well,  where  bulk  is  uo  great  object,  for  generating  steam.  Being  cheap  it  is 
used  to  a  considerable  extent  for  domestic  purposes. 

The  Nanairao,  Vancouver's  Island,  is  excellent  for  generating  gas.  It  is  also 
extensively  used  for  steam  and  domestic  purposes.  It  bums  with  less  smoke 
than  Mount  Diablo  coal,  but  leaves  more  ashes. 

The  Bellingham  Bay  coal  is  considered  the  best  on  this  coast  for  domestic 
purposes,  as  it  is  tolerably  free  from  odor,  and  bmns  with  a  bright  cheerful  flame 
and  very  little  smoke.  It  may  be  compared  with  the  lower  grades  of  English 
coal.     The  mine  is  in  Washington  Temtory. 

*  In  this  connection  it  may  not  be  uuinteresting  to  give  results  of  an  analysis  made  by 
Messrs.  Falkenan  &  Hanks,  San  Franc  ibco  Chemical  Works,  of  some  Saghalien  coal  from 
East  Siberia,  -with  a  comparative  table  of  the  results  obtained  from  different  kinds  of  coal,  as 
to  their  constituents,  and  the  efi'ect  obtained  in  their  use : 


j^ 

OT 

0 

03 

(i. 

e8 

0 

p 

3 

e3 

'"' 

"S    » 

fcD 

0 

d 

0  3 

r^  ^ 

0 

5-=^ 

a 

■^ 

-^   eS 

=*  ^ 

t^ 

3   '^ 

a 

dj  ci 

s;i 

0 

^a 

Designation. 

> 
So 

V 

■3 

0 

II 

0 '~' 

.t.5 

0 

!§ 

"a. 

.s  § 

a;  6Q 

a 

X. 

0 

a 

0 

m 

> 

fSH 

W 

0 

K 

M 

Lehigh,  (Pa.) 

J.590 

5.28 

89. 15 

^5.56 

8.35 

792 

153 

Cumberland,  (Neff's) 

1.3:57 

12. 67 

74.53 

11.34 

8.82 

877 

293 

Cumberland,  (A.  &T.)... 

1. 333 

15.53 

7(5. 69 

7.33 

10.00 

828 

505 

Sydney 

1. 338 

23. 81 

67. 57 

5.40 

7.47 

764 

424 

Newcastle 

1.257 

l.iiHS 

:*5. 83 
35.70 

57. 00 
56.45 

5.40 
6.05 

8.09 

827 

595 

Coal  analysed 

We  have  also  examined  the  sample  of  coal  forwarded  by  you,  with  a  view  of  determining 
its  commercial  value,  and  have  arrived  at  the  Ibllowing  results  : 

Specific  gravity 1. 2S87. 9 

Volatile  combustible  matter ^...  35.70 

Moisture , 1.8 

Fixed  carbon 56.  45 

'  Earthy  matter 6.  05 

Amount  of  gas  evolved  by  10  pounds  avoirdupois  o£coal,  32  cubic  feet. 

The  amount  of  sulphur  contained  in  the  sample  was  so  minute  as  not  to  warrant  a  quan- 
titative determination.  In  regard  to  its  constituents,  the  coal  examined  seems  almost  identi- 
cal with  that  of  Newcastle,  England. 

On  igniting  the  coal,  cakes  forming  a  light  solid  coke,  yielding  fine  reddish  gray  ashes, 
which  did  not  show  the  least  tendency  to  form  slag,  but  passed  freely  through  the  grate, 
were  produced. 


WEST   OF   THE   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  231 

Tlie  Coos  Bay,  Oregon,  is  a  fair  coal  for  many  purposes.  When  first  taTicn 
from  the  mine  it  appears  as  compact  and  solitl  as  "cauuel,"  but  as  it  contains  a 
large  per  centum  of  moisture  it  soon  loses  this  appearance,  and  crambles  when 
exposed  to  the  air.     It  leaves  but  little  ashes, 

The  Fuca  Straits,  Washington  Territory,  coal  is  moderatel}"  well  adapted  to 
steam  or  manufticturing  purposes,  burning  with  a  bright,  clear  flame  and  but 
little  smoke,  leaving  but  a  small  quantity  of  dark  sandy  ashes.  This  coal 
"cakes"  a  good  deal,  which  is  its  chief  defect. 

The  coal  found  farther  north  not  being  much  used  in  California,  its  traits  are 
not  well  understood. 

It  is  found  by  experience  that  the  coal  of  this  coast  is  less  destructive  to  boilers 
and  grates  than  the  anthracite  imported  from  Pennsylvania  or  the  bituminous 
coals  of  Australia. 

The  article  on  the  geology  of  the  coal  fomiations  of  the  Pacific  coast,  furnished 
bj'  Mr.  W.  M.  Gabb,  of  the  California  State  Geological  Survey,  and  published 
in  the  previous  report,  gives  much  general  inforaiation  on  this  branch  of  the 
subject,  and  may  be  refen-ed  to  for  geological  details  respecting  the  fonnations 
in  which  coal  is  found  on  the  Pacific  coast. 

New  DiscovEraES  in  Califok^tia. — A  company  has  been  organized  within 
the  past  few  months  for  the  purpose  of  working  a  seam  of  coal  recently  discov- 
ered near  the  mouth  of  Beai*  creek,  a  tributary  of  the  San  Lorenzo,  a  few  miles    ' 
above  Santa  Cruz.     The  seam  is  stated  to  be  neai'ly  five  feet  thick,  and  the 
quality  good  for  surface  coal. 

It  may  be  well  here  to  state  that  coal  is  much  influenced  by  the  atmosphere. 
Experiments  made  by  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental  Steamship  Company  of  Eng- 
land, prove  that  coal  obtained  from  the  best  mines  in  that  country  loses  20  per 
cent,  of  its  heating  power  when  exposed  to  the  atmosphere  for  a  few  months  in 
hot  climates.  The  steamers  belonging  to  this  company,  when  in  the  tropics, 
consume  one-fourth  more  fuel  than  when  in  the  temperate  climate  of  Europe.  As 
the  temperature  of  the  atmosphere  on  this  coast  ranges  as  high  on  land  during 
the  summer  months  as  in  the  tropics,  it  would  be  unreasonable  to  expect  the 
coal  found  near  the  sm-face  to  be  as  good  as  it  will  be  at  a  depth  out  of  reach 
of  atmospheric  influences. 

A  seam  of  coal  is  being  worked  on  the  south  fork  of  Clear  creek,  Shasta 
county,  a  few  miles  west  of  Piety  Hill,  and  about  30  miles  from  the  silver  mines. 
It  was  discovered  in  1863,  but  was  not  worked  till  the  discovery  of  the  mines 
in  1SG5  aflbrded  a  market  for  the  coal,  which  is  used  to  generate  steam  for  the 
engines  since  erected.  A  shaft  has  been  sunk  on  this  seam  about  GO  feet  deep, 
at  the  bottom  of  which  the  coal  is  found,  about  four  feet  thick,  and  of  fau-  quality. 

In  this  part  of  Shasta  county  there  exists  a  belt  of  shales  laearly  a  mile  wide, 
tilted  to  an  angle  of  about  25  degrees,  which  contains  thin  seams  of  coal.  These 
might  be  made  to  jield  a  supply  of  fuel  for  local  use. 

^Ir.  John  S.  Royal,  in  January,  1867,  discovered  an  outcrop  of  coal  in  Corral 
Hollow,  San  Joaquin  county,  about  30  miles  south  of  Mount  Diablo,  in  a  ravine 
from  which  the  previous  rains  had  washed  the  soil  to  the  depth  of  25  feet.  The 
seam,  where  exposed,  is  about  eight  feet  thick.  It  is  generally  believed  that 
the  beds  of  coal  worked  at  Mount  Diablo  pass  through  this  locality.  The  cost 
of  transportation  and  labor  has  heretofore  prevented  the  working  of  coal  with 
profit  in  this  vicinity.  The  projected  railroad  from  San  Jose  to  Stockton  passing 
within  ftjur  miles,  and  the  San  Joaquin  river  being  accessible  by  a  wagon  road, 
it  is  probable  the  nevv  discovery  may  at  some  future  time  prove  valuable. 

Nearly  l.OOO  tons  of  coal  were  taken  from  mines  in  this  vicinity  in  1SG3 — 200 
tons  of  which  came  from  the  Commercial,  and  800  tons  from  the  O'Brien.  The 
quality  was  good  and  well  adapted  for  generating  gas. 

In  1866  a  company  was  organized  for  the  purpose  of  distilling  oil  from  this 
coal,  of  which  it  is  said  to  contain  G5  gallons  to  the  ton.     The  quantity  of  wat«r 


232  EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

tliat  entered  the  shaft,  and  the  want  of  proper  pnniping  machinery,  caused  a  sus- 
pension of  operations.  It  is  possible  that  with  proper  machinery  the  coal 
deposits  of  CoiTal  Hollow  might  be  profitably  Avorked. 

Clark,  Bruce  &  Company  have  recently  discovered  three  seams  of  coal  on  the 
west  side  of  Butte  mountains,  on  the  Colusa  road.  The  position  and  other  con- 
ditions lead  to  the  supposition  that  these  seams  may  be  continuations  of  those 
worked  at  JMount  Diablo.  Samples  of  the  coal  tested  at  Marysville  gave  satis- 
factory results.     The  work  of  prospecting  is  being  canied  on. 

Deposits  of  coal  have  been  discovered  in  San  Luis  Obispo  county,  in  the 
Salinas  vallej',  about  70  miles  from  Monterey.  The  coal  crops  out  in  a  small 
oval  valley  about  a  mile  in  length,  at  the  head  of  the  Salinas.  There  are  six 
or  seven  distinct  seams  in  this  outcrop  within  the  distance  of  300  feet.  The  for- 
mation has  been  considerably  dislocated  and  the  strata  tilted  up,  but  the  outcrop 
may  be  traced  for  20  miles.  The  third  seam  from  the  top  is  nearly  seven  feet 
thick,  and  has  been  examined  to  some  extent.  The  coal  is  a  lignite.  The  lowest 
seam  in  the  series  is  about  five  feet  tliick  and  has  also  been  examined  by  means 
of  a  short  tannel.     The  other  seams  vary  fi-om  10  inches  to  four  feet  in  thickness. 

The  Mount  Diablo  Coal  Mlnes  are  located  on  both  sides  of  a  high  ridge 
which  projects  from  the  north  side  of  Mount  Diablo,  They  are  favorably  situ- 
ated for  access  to  navigable  water,  being  in  Contra  Costa  county,  about  five 
miles  south  from  the  San  Joaquin  river,  at  a  point  where  it  is  deep  enough  for 
vessels  of  1,000  tons  to  approach  the  bank. 

The  first  mine  in  the  district — the  Teutonia — was  located  in  1858.  Though 
coal  was  discovered  there  in  1852,  none  of  the  valuable  mines  were  located 
till  1859.  Several  of  the  most  productive  have  been  located  since  1860.  It 
will  be  perceived  by  these  dates  that  California  coal  mining  is  still  in  its 
infancy. 

The  majority  of  the  locations  have  been  made  on  the  outcrop  of  coal,  which  is 
traceable  for  several  miles,  trending  easterly  and  westerly.  The  Peacock  mine 
is  on  the  western  edge;  the  Pacheco  and  San  Francisco  are  west  of  the  Peacock 
but  not  on  the  outcrop.  The  disturbed  condition  of  the  seams  has  caused  the 
abandonment  of  these  three  western  mines.  The  C  umberland,  or  Black  Diamond, 
one  of  the  most  valuable  mines  in  the  district,  is  located  about  three-quarter*  oi 
a  mile  to  the  north  of  the  Peacock.  Somersville,  a  small  town  created  by  the 
working  of  the  mines,  is  situated  about  a  mile  to  the  oast  of  the  Black  Diamond, 
from  which  it  is  separated  by  a  high  ridge,  and  is  the  centie  of  operations  at 
present.  This  place  contains  about  200  buililing-s,  including  hotels,  stores,  a 
temperance  hall,  and  a  school-house,  and  has  about  800  inhabitants.  Within 
lialf  a  mile  of  it  are  the  mouths  of  five  different  mines,  from  which  coal  is,  or  haa 
been,  extracted.  On  the  northwest  is  the  Union,  a  short  distance  from  which 
is  the  Manhattan;  a  few  hundred  yards  further  east,  and  somewhat  lower  down 
the  side  of  the  ridge,  is  the  Eureka;  southeast  of  this,  in  a  ravine  at  the  base  of 
the  western  side  of  the  ridge,  is  the  Pittsburg;  about  1,000  yards  to  the  north 
of  this,  and  still  lower  down  in  the  ravine,  is  the  Independent.  All  these  mines 
thus  clustered  together  about  the  sides  of  a  steep,  rugged  mountain  present  a 
singular  appearance.  The  lofty  chimneys  of  the  steam  engines  belclung  forth 
colunms  of  dense  black  smoke;  the  dark,  dingy  dwellings  of  the  miners  and 
those  who  minister  to  their  wants;,  the  tall  trellis-like  viaducts  across  the  ravines, 
over  which  the  locomotives  are  constantly  passing  between  the  mines  and  the 
wharves;  the  clanking  of  machinery,  and  busy  hum  of  workmen  and  teamsters; 
the  great  piles  of  black  waste  at  the  mouth  of  each  mine,  all  tend  to  give  a  pecu- 
liar interest,  if  they  do  not  impart  much  beauty,  to  the  scene.  '  The  distant  view 
of  the  surrounding  comitry,  as  seen  from  the  ridge,  embraces  stretches  of  grassy 
•meadows  teeming  vi-ith  cattle  and  sheep;  purpleliills  breaking  in  rugged  outline 
against  the  sky,  and  glimpses  of  the  San  Joaquin  meandering  through  its  tule 
banks,  dotted  with  the  white  sails  of  sloops  and  schooners,  while  here  and  there 


WEST  OF  THE  KOCKY  MOUNTAINS.  233 

a  ueat  cottacfo  embosomed  in  orcliurds  and  surrounded  by  yellow  i^rain  fields, 
presents  a  scene  of  (|iuet  beauty,  sui;-i^estive  (jf  the  i>roi>-ress  of  eivilizatiou. 

The  Central  mine,  one  of  the  first  worked,  but  at  present  idle,  is  located  near 
the  base  of  the  hill,  three-quarters  of  a  mile  to  the  east  from  Somersville,  from 
which  i)lace  it  is  separated  by  the  hill.  The  Pacific,  the  most  recently  opened 
in  the  district,  is  located  near  Marsh's  creek,  seven  miles  east  of  Somersville. 

The  above  are  all  the  mines  at  present  in  a  state  of  development.  The  Mount 
Hope  is  on  the  Black  Diamond  Company's  ground,  of  which  that  company 
resumed  possession  in  August  last,  and  is  not  described  as  a  separate  mine. 

The  mines  now  producing  coal  are  the  Black  Diamond,  Union,  Pittsburg, 
Independent  and  Eureka.  The  workings  in  these  mines  are  extensive,  some 
of  the  levels  ui  one  connecting  with  those  ina  another,  so  that  a  i)erson  may  travel 
a  mile  on  the  line  of  the  seam. 

It  is  estimated  that  during  the  six  years  ending  July,  18G7,  500,000  tons  of 
coal  have  been  taken  from  these  mines.  The  quantity  received  at  San  Fran- 
cisco, as  shown  by  the  following  table,  auKJunted  to  302,554  tons,  while  the 
consumption  on  the  ground,  the  waste  in  handling,  &c.,  and  j,he  quantity  sent 
to  the  interior  by  water  and  teams,  will  make  up  the  difference: 

Aitiuial  receipts  of  Mount  Diablo  coal  ttt  San  Francisco. 

,«.,,  Tons. 

1861 6,620 

1862 23,400 

1863 43,200 

1864 37,450 

It^w 59,559 

1866 79,110 

First  six  months  1867 53,215 

Total 302,554 

The  discovery  of  this  coal  has  caused  a  reduction  in  the  price  of  the  imported 
article.  In  1857  the  average  price  of  imported  coal  w'as  $35  per  ton.  In  1867 
the  average  price  is  about  $15  per  ton.     A  reduction  of  $20  per  ton. 

The  JMount  Diablo  coal  is  used  almost  exclusively  by  the  river,  feny,  and 
coasting  steamers,  and  by  most  of  the  stationary  engines  at  San  Francisco,  and 
at  places  convenient  to  the  rivers.  The  flour  mills  at  Napa,  Suisun,  and  other 
places,  use  it,  and  considerable  quantities  are  consumed  at  Sacramento  and 
Stockton.  Shipments  are  occasionaHy  made  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  where  it 
is  used  for  running  the  engines  on  the  sugar  plantations.  Dm'iug  the  first  six 
months  of  1867,  1,300  tons  were  shipped  to  Honolulu. 

The  -working  of  the  mines  has  created  several  prosperous  villages  in  their 
vicinity,  among  which  may  bo  named  Somersville,  Clayton,  Nortonvillo  or  Car- 
bondale,  and  Pittsburg  Landing,  the  terminus  of  the  Black  Diamond  railroad, 
about  two  miles  from  Antioch  and  four  miles  from  New  York. 

From  the  knovvTi  dimensions  of  this  coal  field  it  is  calculated  to  contain  about 
12,000,000  tons.  It  is  probable  its  extent  will  be  traced  beyond  the  present 
recognized  limits. 

The  Black  Diamond. — The  company  owning  this  mine  was  incorporated 
in  1861,  and  have  worked  their  property  continuously  since.  In  August,  1867, 
the  mine  produced  about  4,000  tons,  wliich  was  its  average  monthly  product  for 
some  time  previously.  It  employs  about  150  men.  "The  coal  is  extracted 
through  two  levels,  but  there  is  another  in  progress  which,  when  completcnl,  will 
Strike  the  vein  about  800  feet  below  both  the  present  adits. 

The  upper  level  is  nin  on  what  is  known  as  the  Black  Diamond  seam,  and  is 
reached  by  a  tunnel  430  feet  in  length,  cut  through  the  sandstone  which  encloses 
the  coal.  The  workings  on  this  level  extend  three-quartei-s  of  a  mile  on  both 
sides  of  the  tunnel.     This  coal  seam  is  four  feet  four  inches  thick. 


224  EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

The  second  level  is  about  550  feet  below  the  above,  passes  through  the  Clark 
seam,  which  is  three  feet  six  inches  thick,  and  extends  300  feet  beyond  to  the 
Black  Diamond  seam.  The  working  on  the  Clark  seam  extends  about  haK  a 
mile  on  both  sides  of  the  tunnel  and  several  hundred  feet  on  the  Black  Diamond. 

The  tliird  opening  is  l)eing  made  by  an  incline,  which  will  strike  the  coal 
about  live  hundred  feet  below  l)oth  the  other  levels.  It  will  cut  the  Clark  and 
the  Black  Diamond  seams.  When  this  incline  shall  be  completed  this  company 
will  have  a  sheet  of  coal  to  work  about  2,000  feet  deep,  running  the  length  of 
their  claim,  nearly  a  mile.  They  also  own  the  Manhattan,  which  they  expect 
to  work  through  the  above  levels  by  means  of  a  drift  now  being  cut. 

In  working  the  Black  Diamond  the  miners  pass  through  several  bodies  of  coal 
of  fair  quality,  but  too  small  to  work  with  profit,  ranging  from  12  inches  to  18 
inches  in  thickness,  each  being  separated  by  a  stratum  of  hard  black  slate.  Two 
miles  south  of  the  tunnels  on  this  mine  the  Black  Diamond  seam  is  found  to  be 
divided  by  two  lenticular  beds  of  tough  clay,  each  from  10  to  12  feet  thick, 
divided  by  a  body  of  hard  clay  slate.  This  clay  furnishes  materials  for  the  pot- 
tery at  Antioch,  and  makes  good  fire  brick. 

The  mine  is  worked  by  stoping  and  drifting,  the  men  laboring  by  contract. 
Every  facility  is  afforded  by  tlie  company  to  take  the  coal  out  in  as  compact  a 
form  as  possible.  The  arrangements  for  conveying  it  from  the  pit  to  the  vessels 
on  the  river  afford  an  illustration  of  California  engineering  skill.  The  mouth 
of  the  main  adit  is  situated  nearly  midway  up  the  side  of  a  steep  mountain, 
several  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  plain.  To  overcome  this  obstacle, 
a  massive  incline  has  been  constructed  of  framed  timbers  900  feet  in  length,  the 
ano-le  of  which  is  15  dec^rees.  A  double  car  track  is  laid  on  the  incline.  Bv 
means  of  a  stout  wire  rope  passing  over  a  drum,  nine  feet  in  diameter,  the  loaded 
car  is  made  to  haul  up  the  empty  one.  A  car  caiTying  20  tons  of  coal  descending 
pulls  up  10  tons  of  timbers  and  other  materials  used  in  the  mine.  The  foot  of 
the  incline  connects  with  a  raikoad  over  which  the  cars  are  hauled  by  a  locomo- 
tive to  New  York,  on  the  San  Joaquin  river,  where  the  arrangements  are  com- 
pleted for  loading  the  fleet  of  vessels  engaged  in  carrying  coal  to  San  Francisco 
and  other  places,  without  any  further  handling. 

The  railroad  used  by  this  company  has  no  connection  with  the  Pittsbm'g  road, 
to  be  described  hereafter ;  this  hitter  is  the  property  of  another  corporation.  Its 
terminus  on  the  river  is  four  miles  distant  fnjm  New  York. 

The  Pittsburg  is  worked  by  a  stope  cut  at  an  angle  of  30  degi'ees,  by  which 
the  coal  is  reached  at  a  distance  of  350  feet.  The  monthly  product  is  from  1,500 
to  1,800  tons.  The  coal  is  hoisted  by  a  horizontal  winding  engine  of  sufficient 
power  to  raise  200  tons  per  day. 

The  PiTTSBur.G  Coal  Railroad. — In  1862  a  charter  was  gi-anted  to  a 
company  by  the  State  legislature  to  construct  a  railroad  from  the  mines  to  the 
river.  But  little  was  done  towards  its  construction  till  the  summer  of  1865.  It 
was  not  completed  and  furnished  with  rolling  stock  till  February,  1866.  Tlie 
road,  a  remarkable  specimen  of  engineering  skill,  is  only  five  and  a  half  miles 
in  length.  From  the  mines  to  the  plain,  a  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half,  the 
grade  of  the  track  is  274.56  feet  to  the  mile.  The  four  miles  from  the  river  to 
the  base  of  the  mountain  is  constnicted  on  a  gradient  of  40  to  160  feet  to  the 
mile.  To  overcome  the  inequalities  of  the  surface  of  the  country  e'ght  trestle 
bridges  had  to  be  constructed,  the  most  extensive  of  which  is  340  feet  in  length; 
a  tunnel  300  feet  long  had  to  be  cut,  and  a  number  of  heavy  banks  and  culverts 
built.  All  the  timber  used  in  making  the  bridges  is  selected  Oregon  pine  and 
California  redwood.  The  rails,  of  English  iron,  are  laid  on  square  redwood  ties. 
The  giinge  of  the  road  is  four  feet  eight  and  one-half  inches.  To  overcome  the 
friction  of  such  a  steep  grade,  two  locomotives  of  a  pecuhar  construction  have 
been  made  at  San  Francisco.  They  have  powerful  engines  and  three  pairs  of 
36-inch  driving-wheels  each,  with  cylinders  14  by  18  inches.     Each  weighs 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  235 

aliont  17  tons  when  loaded  with  fuel  and  water,  whicli  tlicy  cany  thenis<,'lvcs, 
havinji;  no  tcndeivi. 

The  total  cost  of  the  road  is  about  $145,000. 

All  the  mines  in  a  position  to  do  so  have  constmcted  side  branches  to  con- 
nect with  this  road.  It  is  estimated  tliat  it  can  deliver  3,000  tons  of  coal  daily 
on  board  the  vessels  at  the  wharf.  Tiie  coal  is  shipped  from  the  cars  to  the 
vess(ds  l\v  sluites. 

The  friction  on  tho  brakes  when  the  locomotives  are  comina^  down  the  incline 
is  tremendous,  but  thus  far  n®  serious  accidents  have  happened. 

The  coal  from  the  Union,  Pittsburg-,  Independent,  and  Eureka  mines  is  car- 
ried by  this  road. 

The  Teutoxia,  tho  pioneer  of  the  district,  has  been  explored  to  a  depth  ai 
oOO  feet  by  means  of  an  incline  cut  at  an  angle  of  30  degrees.  At  this  depth 
t\w  upjier  scam  of  coal,  two  feet  thick,  was  reached.  A  horizontal  drift  from  the 
bottom  of  this  incline  strikes  the  Clark  seam  where  it  is  3  feet  10  inches  thick. 
Another  drift,  run  in  an  opposite  direction,  strikes  the  lower  or  Black  Diamond 
seam.  It  is  known  that  there  are  two  other  seams  of  coal  in  this  mine,  the  low- 
est of  which  is  about  five  feet  thick.  The  want  of  cheap  facilities  for  conveying 
the  coal  to  market  prevents  the  owners  from  working  it  to  advantage.  The 
company  owns  640  acres  of  coal  land;  have  good  engines,  pumps,  and  hoisting 
gear.  The  mine  faces  the  ])roperty  of  the  Pacific  Company  ;  the  ground  nearly 
four  miles  between  the  two  mines  is  almost  a  level  plain.  The  land  belonj^ing  to 
the  Pacific  Company  extends  to  the  hills  bounding  the  Teutonia  Company's 
ground. 

The  Uxion.; — Operations  on  this  mine  were  commenced  in  1861.  The  coal 
is  reached  by  a  stope,  which,  in  July,  1867,  was  500  feet  in  length,  having  a 
vertical  depth  of  230  feet.  The  seam  averages  three  feet  six  inches  in  thick- 
ness, and  is  on  the  Clark,  or  upper  seam.  The  monthly  product  ranges  from 
1,800  to  2,000  tons.     The  hoisting  is  done  by  a  horizontal  driving  engine. 

The  Ixdepexdent. — Work  on  this  mine  was  commenced  in  1861,  though 
the  coal  was  not  reached  till  1866,  owing  to  the  quantity  of  water  that  entered 
the  shaft,  the  mine  being  the  lowest  in  the  district,  and  W'Orked  by  a  perpen- 
dicular shaft  700  feet  deep.  Upwards  of  $180,000  was  expended  for  machinery, 
pumps,  labor,  &c.,  before  the  coal  \vas  reached.  The  pump  in  use  at  present, 
and  which  is  barely  sufficient  to  keep  the  mine  dry,  is  driven  by  a  75-horse 
power  horizontal  engine,  and  lifts  130,000  gallons  per  hour.  So  great  is  the 
influx  of  water  that  a  stoppage  of  the  pumps  for  24  hours  would  require  20  days' 
punqiing  to  clear  it.  The  hoisting  and  other  machinery  is  powerful.  The 
cages,  or  hoisting  cars,  each  liolding  nearly  a  ton,  are  lifted  by  a  rope  four  inches 
in  circumference.  About  200  car-loads  are  hoisted  daily.  The  product  of  the 
mine  averages  about  1,500  tons  monthly. 

The  Eckeka  is  owned  and  worked  by  the  Independent  Company.  About 
1 60  men  are  employed  in  both  mines.  This  produces  about  1,500  tons  per  month, 
l)ut  could  produce  more.  The  company,  in  March,  1867,  increased  their  capital 
fiom  $500,000  to  $3,000,000,  in  order  to  conduct  operations  on  a  larger  scale, 
and  have  since  made  improvements. 

The  coal  is  obtained  by  an  incline  GOO^feet  in  length,  at  an  angle  of  45°. 
It  is  taken  from  three  seams.  The  upper,  or  Clark  seam,  is  three  feet  eight  inches 
thick ;  the  middle,  two  feet  six  inches ;  and  the  lower,  or  Black  Diamond,  four 
feet.  The  two  upper  seams  are  passed  through  in  niaching  the  lower  one.  The 
distance  between  the  upper  and  lower  varies  from  225  to  350  feet.  The  Eureka 
uses  a  horizontal  winding  engine  for  hoisting. 

The  Cexthal,  which,  prior  to  the  construction  of  railroads  by  the  Pitsburg 
and  Black  Diamond  Companies,  furnished  a  large  portion  of  the  coal  sent  to 
market,  is  at  present  idle.  The  slow  and  expensive  transportation  b}--  teams 
places  it  out  of  the  field  in  competition  with  mines  having  the  advantage  of  rail- 


236  EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

roads.  It  is  in  contemplation  to  construct  a  railroad  to  connect  it  and  the  Ten- 
tonia  with  the  river.  Both  these  mines  are  located  on  the  same  side  of  the 
mountain,  and  suffer  alike  from  want  of  cheap  transportation  ;  hoth  contain 
unln'oken  seams  of  coal ;  have  been  well  opened,  and  have  powerful  machinery 
for  '\\or]cini^  purposes. 

The  Pacific,  the  property  of  a  wealthy  corpoi-ation  of  New  York  capitalists, 
is  located  al)Out  six  miles  east  of  Somersville,  on  the  Rancho  de  los  Meganos,  or 
Marsh's  ranch,  as  it  is  now  called.  The  ranch  covers  three  square  leagues  of 
land,  embracing'  a  portion  of  the  foot-hills  at  the  base  of  Mount  Diablo,  and 
extending  to  tlie  San  Joaquin  river.  Borings  and  other  explorations  have  sat- 
isfied the  engineers  and  agents  of  the  company  that  the  seams  of  coal  worked 
in  Mount  Diablo  pass  in  a  nearly  horizontal  position  under  this  ranch,  covering 
a  space  of  six  miles  square.  A  shaft  is  now  in  progress  at  a  point  near  the 
western  extremity  of  the  ranch,  several  mileS  west  of  the  disturbed  formation  in 
the  Peacock,  Pacheco,  and  San  Francisco  Companies'  ground.  It  is  calculated 
that  this  shaft  will  strike  the  Black  Diamond  seam  at  a  depth  of  400  feet.  The 
calculation  is  based  on  the  dip  of  the  seam,  which  was  reached  by  an  incliHe 
sunk  about  1,200  feet,  from  which  the  seam  was  prospected  200  feet  laterally 
and  found  to  average  four  feet  four  inches  in  thicknesss.  The  Clark  and  middle 
seams  were  reached  in  July  last,  dipping  at  an  angle  of  .30°,  leaving  little  room 
to  doubt  that  the  more  important  seam  will  be  reached  at  a  sufficient  depth. 
The  coal  taken  fi-om  the  mine  at  present  is  used  in  nnniing  the  machinery.  The 
shaft  in  j^rogress  is  intended  to  serve  as  the  general  outlet  of  the  mine.  Its 
dimensions  are  16  feet  by  8  inside  the  timbers.  It  is  timbered  all  through  and 
divided  into  three  compartments,  two  of  which  are  fitted  for  hoisting  purposes. 
The  centre  sciwes  as  the  pump  shaft.  It  is  estimated  that  when  the  mine  is 
fairly  opened  and  the  machinery  in  operation,  20  tons  of  coal  can  be  raised  per 
hour.     In  July  last,  the  shaft  had  reached  150  feet  in  depth. 

The  machinery  was  made  at  the  Union  Iron  "Works,  at  San  Francisco.  The 
pumping  engine  Aveighs  20  tons  and  is  of  175-horse  power,  A^ith  three  boilers, 
each  35  feet  long  and  42  inches  in  diameter.  The  pump  is  what  is  known  as  a 
Cornish  "lift,"  having  a  six-feet  stroke  and  12^-incli  bore.  It  is  estimated  to 
be  capable  of  raising  a  body  of  water  the  size  of  the  bore  1,000  feet. 

The  company  have  a  lease  of  13,316  acres  of  coal  land.  A  railroad  from  the 
mine  to  the  river  is  projected. 

Labor,  Wages,  &c. — It  is  estimated  that  1,000  men  are  employed  in  and 
about  the  mines  at  Mount  Diablo.  The  miners  work  chiefly  b}'  contract.  The 
general  price  for  breaking  out  the  coal  is  $1  per  square  yard.  The  men  who 
perform  this  labor  make  from  $4  to  $6  per  day.  The  unskilled  laborers  are 
paid  from  $40  to  $65  per  month,  in  gold.  BoiU'd  and  lodging  costs  from  $6  to 
$S  per  week.     No  Chinese  are  employed. 

The  monthly  wages  paid  by  the  several  mines  in  this  district  aggregates 
about  $50,000  or  $600,000  per  annum.  The  average  cost  to  the  companies  for 
extracting  and  delivering  the  coal  is  $6  per  ton,  divided  as  follows:  Miners' 
wages,  hoisting,  wear  and  tear,  and  interest  on  capital,  or  total  cost  of  coal  in 
the  bnnk(;rs  at  mouth  of  mine,  $3  50  per  ton ;  freight  b}'  railroad  to  Pittsburg, 
$1  per  ton;  shipping  from  thence  to  San  Francisco,  $1  per  ton;  commissions 
and  general  management,  50  cents  per  ton. 

The  present  market  value  of  Mount  Diablo  coal  suitable  for  domestic  purposes 
is  from  $8  to  $9  per  ton.  As  only  80  per  cent,  of  that  placed  in  the  bunkers  is 
marketable,  20  per  cent,  being  screenings,  which  are  sold  at  $5  per  ton,  the 
margin  of  profit,  after  all  expenses  are  paid,  is  very  limited. 

The  above  shows  as  nearly  as  can  be  ascertained  the  present  condition  and 
future  prospects  of  the  coal  iniiK.'s  in  California.  It  has  not  been  a  remunera- 
tive business  to  the  capitalists  who  have  engaged  in  it,  owing  to  inexperience  in 
the  working  of  the  mines,  injudicious  management,  tlie  high  cost  of  roads  to 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  237 

navigablo  waters,  and  the  dinicultics  to  bo  overcome  in  creating  a  market  where 
the  best  imiK)rte(l  coals  had  been  so  lona;  in  use.  All  these  obstacles  to  success 
are  gradually  disappciuing,  and  it  is  believed  the  coal  interest  in  California  will, 
in  time,  pay  a  lair  percentage  upon  the  capital  invested  in  it.  Incidentally  it 
has  been  of  advantage  to  the  country,  having  ftn-nishcd  employment  to  a  consid- 
erable number  of  laborers,  created  a  demand  for  machinery,  and  supplied  cheap 
fuel  for  domestic  use  and  for  purposes  of  manufacture  and  navio-ation. 

TnE  Coal  Mimes  of  Oiiegox. — A  seam  of  coal  was  discovered  in  May, 
1S67,  on  the  land  bthmging  to  ]\Ir.  Frank  Cooper,  in  IMarion  county,  about  30 
miles  fc'om  Salem.  Considerable  quantities  of  the  coal  have  been  sent  to  that 
city,  where  it  sells  readily.  A  wagon  road  is  being  constructed  thence  to  the 
mine,  in  order  to  supply  the  demand.  At  the  depth  of  65  feet  the  seam  is  about 
five  feet  thick,  and  the  qualit}^  of  the  coal  better  than  at  the  surface.  Good  coal 
has  been  found  near  the  Pi'emier  mills,  on  Bear  creek,  a  tributary  of  the  Yaquina 
river,  in  Benton  county,  about  30  miles  west  from  Corvallis.  Five  separate 
seams  of  coal  have  been  found  in  this  locality,  varying  from  six  inches  to  four 
feet  in  thickness.  The  most  valuable  .seam  is  within  five  miles  of  Yaquina  bay. 
This  is  about  fom"  feet  thick,  and  nearly  horizontal  in  position.  It  has  been 
prospected  over  a  considerable  extent  of  the  adjoining  country.  It  is  estimated 
that  coal  in  this  vicinity  can  be  delivered  at  $3  50  per  ton,  owing  to  natural 
facilities  for  working  and  transportation.  ]\Iost  of  the  mines  are  not  more  than 
live  miles  from  navigable  waters,  and  that  distance  over  an  almost  level  plain. 
A  railroad  could  be  cheaply  constructed  to  the  place  of  debarcatlon. 

Towards  the  close  of  1S66  a  seam  of  coal  was  discovered  on  the  bank  of  Til- 
lamook bay,  50  miles  south  of  Astoria  and  60  miles  northwest  from  Salem. 

There  is  another  coal  seam  of  a  similar  character  on  the  shore  of  Nehalem, 
about  25  miles  funher  up  the  river. 

Extensive  beds  of  coal  are  in  progress  of  exploration  about  three  miles  from 
FaiTvell  bend,  on  the  Snake  river.  A  tunnel  has  been  run  on  a  vertical  seam 
about  300  feet,  where  a  number  of  smaller  seams  connect  and  form  a  body  of 
coal  about  10  feet  thick.  The  month  of  the  tnnnel  is  close  to  the  bank  of  the 
river.  Another  seam  of  coal  discovered,  200  feet  above  the  original  discovery, 
is  said  to  contain  good  coal,  and  to  be  five  feet  thick. 

Coal  has  been  found  in  the  Calapooya  mountains,  within  a  few  miles  of 
Bany's  sm-vey  for  a  railroad  from  the  Columbia  liver  to  California.  This  dis- 
covery is  considered  of  importance  In  that  part  of  Oregon. 

There  is  a  coal  field  on  ]>oth  sides  of  the  Coquille  river,  in  Coos  county.  The 
Coos  Bay  mines  are  in  the  northern  edge  of  this  field,  which  extends  into  Cuny 
county.  The  seams,  of  which  there  are  three,  are  thicker  and  the  coal  of  a 
])etter  quality  on  the  Coquille  river  than  at  Coos  bay.  The  two  larger  seams 
unite  on  the  river  and  form  a  bcxly  of  coal  nearly  13  feet  thick.  There  is  another 
field  between  the  south  and  middle  forks  of  the  Coquille,  which  is  1,600  feet 
higher  in  the  mountains  than  the  last  mentioned.  It  has  been  traced  for  22  miles 
in  length  by  eight  miles  in  width.  One  seam  is  10  feet  thick.  The  Coos  Bay 
deposit  extends  about  25  miles  north  and  south,  and  20  miles  east  and  west.  It 
is  most  valuable  on  the  south,  but  is  only  worked  on  the  north. 

Coos  Bay  Coal. — What  is  known  as  Coos  Bay  coal  bears  a  good  reputa- 
tion in  California.  It  is  found  in  a  number  of  scams  which  crop  out  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  ridge  that  divides  Coos  bay  on  the  south  from  the  Coquille  river. 

The  locality  of  the  best  mine  will  be  understood  from  a  brief  description  of 
the  bay.  Coos  bay  is  about  14  miles  in  length,  varying  from  one  and  a  half  to 
two  and  a  half  miles  wide.  The  main  part  of  it  has  a  direction  northeast  by 
southwest.  At  the  upper  end  there  is  a  sharp  bend  to  the  north.  The  Coos 
river  rises  some  30  miles  inland  and  enters  the  upper  end  of  the  bend.  Foxir 
miles  from  the  mouth,  in  a  densely  timbered  and  hilly  country,  is  Marshlield,  the 
centre  of  the  coal  mining.     The  facilities  for  workinff  the  mines  axe  crude.     If 


238  EESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

the  arrangements  were  more  complete  the  supply  of  coal  could  he  increased. 
Tlierc  is  a  good  entrance  to  the  bay.  The  har  at  its  mouth  has  14  feet  of  water 
at  high  tide,  and  there  is  a  government  light-house  convenient.  Four  miles  fi-om 
the  entrance  of  the  bay,  on  the  south  shore,  is  Empu-e  City,  the  seat  of  Coos 
county,  a  thriving  little  place. 

The  supply  of  Coos  bay  coal  at  San  Francisco  has  increased  during  the  past 
thi'ce  years,  as  the  following  table  will  show.  The  consumption  has  increased 
in  Oregon  to  an  equal  extent.  i 

1865 500  tons. 

1866 2,120    " 

1867,  (first  six  months  only) 2,520    " 

Coal  ts  Washengton  Territokt. — A  seam  of  coal  is  being  worked  on  the 
bank  of  the  Cowlitz  river,  six  or  eight  miles  from  where  it  unites  witli  the  Colum- 
bia. The  Cowlitz  coal  differs  in  appearance  and  composition  from  other  coal 
found  on  this  coast.  It  is  light,  its  specific  gravity  scarcely  exceeding  1.  It 
breaks  with  a  bright  glassy  fracture,  burns  with  a  peculiar  white  flame  and  very 
little  smoke,  leaving  but  a  small  per  cent,  of  white,  powdery  ashes.  It  contains 
no  sulphur,  does  not  soil  the  fingers  in  handling,  makes  a  hot  fire,  which  continues 
longer  than  most  of  the  Avest- coast  coal.  It  cakes  in  burning  and  makes  a  con- 
siderable per  cent  of  coke.  Professor  TV.  P.  Blake  has  made  an  examination 
of  this  mine  and  coal,  and  considers  them  valuable. 

A  coal  mine  of  some  reputation  is  at  Bellingham  bay,  near  the  northwest 
boundary  of  the  Territory.  About  two  years  since  it  became  the  property  of  a 
San  Francisco  corporation,  which  had  commenced  making  improvements  for 
mining  and  exporting  the  coal,  when,  from  some  cause  not  clearly  understood, 
the  mine  took  iire.  The  fire  could  not  be  subdued  till  the  underground  works 
were  flooded.  This  misfortune  prevented  operations  in  the  mine  for  nearly  a 
year,  and  caused  a  serious  loss  to  the  company.  It  was  reopened  in  February, 
1867.  The  first  cargo  of  coal  since  the  fire  was  received  in  May.  Since  that 
time  the  supply  has  steadily  increased.  The  following  table  gives  the  quantity 
of  coal  from  this  mine  received  at  San  Francisco  dming  the  past  three  years : 

1865 14,446  tons. 

1866 1 1,380    " 

1867,  (first  six  months  only) •  1,275    " 

The  Fuca  Stkaits  Coal  Mines  are  situated  in  the  northern  part  of  Wash- 
ington Territory,  on  the  south  shore  of  the  Straits  of  Fuca,  about  45  miles  south- 
west from  Victoria  and  40  miles  southeast,  from  the  Pacific  ocean.  The  company 
owning  t\w  mines  possess  2,080  acres  of  the  surrounding  country.  The  land 
embraces  the  shores  of  Clallam  Ijay  for  several  miles.  The  surface  of  the  coun- 
tiy  is  exceedingly  hilly  and  broken,  and  is  covered  with  a  dense  forest  of  spruce, 
fir,  and  cedar  to  the  water's  edge.  Its  geological  formation  is  exposed  by  several 
landslides  of  recent  occurrence,  some  of  them  being  quite  close  to  the  mine.  It 
consists  of  sandstones  and  shales,  with  occasional  conglomerate,  the  whole  broken, 
divided,  and  tilted  up  in  delfierent  c^'cctions  by  dikes  of  indurated  sandstone.  To 
such  an  extent  has  this  displacement  been  efiected  that  it  is  difficult  to  trace  the 
continuity  of  the  stratification.  The  largest  bodies  of  the  exposed  strata  dip 
toward  the  land  at  angles  varying  from  15°  to  40°.  The  croppings  of  the  coal 
are  conspicuous  from  Clallam  bay  to  Pillar  Point,  eight  miles  to  the  southeast. 

The  lowest  seam  is  about  two  feet  thick,  and  is  seen  some  60  feet  above  the 
water  line  of  the  bay,  in  the  face  of  the  hill  where  the  mine  has  been  opened. 
It  dips  towai'ds  the  land  at  an  angle  of  35°.  About  250  feet  higher  in  the  hill 
is  another  seam  about  15  inches  thick,  and  300  feet  still  higher  another  eight 
inches  thick.  The  mine  is  located  on  the  lowest  of  these  seams.  The  work 
done  by  the  company  inoludes  a  tunnel  run  into  the  face  of  the  hill  70  feet, 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  239 

wlicro  it  veachen  the  tx)al,  at  a  convenient  level  for  shipping.  From  this  point 
an  incline  2.')0  feet  in  len<:^th  has  been  nni  on  the  scam,  ihe  lower  part  of  wliich 
chano;es  its  dip  from  [iC)°  to  25°.  Lateral  drifts  have  been  run  350  feet  to  tho 
cast  and  ISO  feet  to  tho  west,  tho  latter  terminated  by  a  tliiclv  sandstone  dyke. 
Two  dikes  of  similar  materials  were  met  in  the  other  drift,  one  fonr,  the  i)thcr 
nine  feet  thick. 

About  1 ,500  tons  of  coal  were  taken  from  this  mine  up  to  the  close  of  1 S66,  when 
operations  were  susi)ended  f(>r  want  of  funds  to  carry  them  on.  In  ISG7  a  com- 
pany was  incorporaUnl  for  the  purpose  of  workini^  this  mine,  under  the  title  of 
the  Phoenix  Coal  Mininj';'  Company.  Operations  now  give  better  promise  of 
success.  The  original  owners,  having  no  other  machinery  than  a  hand  pump  and 
windlass,  labored  under  disadvantages.  The  coal,  owing  to  the  expense  of  labor, ' 
cost  $7  50  per  ton,  delivered  at  San  Francisco.  The  new  company,  having 
pumps  and  hoisting  gear  worked  by  steam,  can  obtain  it  at  less  expense. 

The  lirst  cargo,  500  tons,  from  this  mine  since  it  has  been  reopened,  was  received 
at  San  Francisco  in  August,  18G7,  where  it  sold  at  $12  per  ton,  costing  the  com- 
pany SG  per  ton  to  deliver. 

The  English  government  steamer  Zealous  has  been  supplied  from  this  mine. 
The  engineers  of  that  vessel  speak  favorably  of  the  coal,  stating  that  it  makes 
less  soot  in  tho  Hues  and  less  ashes  than  any  other  obtained  on  the  coast. 

The  new  company  have  extended  the  worliings  on  the  original  incline  to  1,300 
feet,  where  tho  seam  is  nearly  four  feet  thick.  In  making  lateral  drifts  from  the 
bottom  of  the  incline,  the  dikes  mentioned  as  interfering  with  the  workings  on 
the  upper  levels  were  not  met  with,  though  these  lower  drifts  were  extended  300 
feet  northeast  and  nearly  700  feet  northwest. 

About  40  men  are  at  present  employed  at  the  mine,  who  take  out  100  tons  of 
coal  per  week. 

Investigations  by  experienced  mining  engineers  and  geologists  lead  to  tho  con- 
clusion that  there  is  an  extensive  bed  of  coal  in  Clallam  valley,  of  which  the 
seams  above  described  are  but  tho  margin. 

A  bore  202  foot  deep  was  sunk  in  this  valley  in  1866,  at  a  point  about  amilo 
and  a  half  from  the  bay.     It  passed  through  the  following  formations : 

Feet.  Inches. 

Sandstone 11  G 

Till 1  0 

Sandstone 5  0 

Till , 7  0 

Hard  sandstone 1  0 

Beds  of  hard  clay 5  0 

Sandstone 48  0 

Fire-clay 5  0 

Sandstone 4  6 

Till 1  6 

Sandstone,  iu  beds 8  10 

Till 5  0 

Sandstone 1  6 

Till G  6 

Sandstone 3  6 

Till 1  4 

Clay,  in  bcda 12  6 

Hard  freestone 0  10 

Sandstone 13  6 

Coal 0  8 

Below  this  the  bore  passed  through  alteniate  layers  of  sandstone,  shale,  and 
conglomerate,  till  work  was  stopped  for  want  of  machinery. 


.dimimm^a^ 


240  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

It  is  a  matter  of  some  importance  to  ascertain  tlie  extent  of  the  deposit  in  tliis 
locality,  as  tlie  quality  of  the  coal  in  Fuca  Straits  mine  is  such  that  a  good  supply 
of  it  is  desirable. 

Other  Coal  Mi^tes  ix  Washixgtox  Territokt. — In  July,  1867,  the  Coal 
Creek  Road  Company,  of  Seattle,  Washington  Tenitory,  was  incoqiorated  under 
a  special  act  of  the  ten-itorial  legislature,  with  a  capital  of  $30,000,  for  the  piu-- 
pose  of  constracting  a  road  and  making  other  improvements  for  developing  the 
coal  mines  opened  to  the  east  of  that  town.  These  mines  are  reported  to  con- 
tain excellent  coal. 

A  seam  of  coal  has  been  recently  opened  near  Monticcllo,  Cowlitz  county, 
about  740  miles  northeast  of  JMount  Diablo.  Some  of  it,  tested  on  board  the 
Oregon  Steam  Navigation  Company's  vessels,  was  found  to  be  good  for  steam 
purposes,  burning  with  a  clear  flame  and  but  little  smoke,  leaving  but  a  small 
residue  of  ashes. 

Coal  ix  Nevada. — It  is  believed  by  persons  who  have  travelled  over  this 
State  that  good  coal  exists  near  its  northern  and  western  boundaries. 

A  seam  of  lignite  is  reported  to  have  been  found  during  the  past  summer  a 
few  miles  from  Iliko,  the  county  seat  of  Liucoln  county,  near  the  Pahi'anagat 
district. 

The  sui-veyors  employed  by  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad  Company  report  the 
existence  of  coal  at  the  eastern  base  of  the  mountains  near  Crystal  Peak,  con- 
venient to  the  Truckee  river,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  line  of  that  rail- 
road. 

Parties  prospecting  for  gold  and  silver  among  the  Goose  Creek  mountains 
report  croppings  of  coal  at  several  places  in  that  part  of  the  State.  The  Goose 
Creek  mountains  are  on  tlie  line  of  the  Central  Pacific  railroad,  above  the  valley 
of  the  Humboldt.  Coal  has  been  known  to  exist  in  these  mountains  for  many 
years.  The  early  emigrants  who  crossed  the  plains  in  1850  frequently  spoke  of 
having  seen  it. 

An  inferior  quality  of  coal  is  known  to  exist  in  the  mountain  ranges  of  western 
Nevada,  and  in  the  Walker  river  country. 

Coal  in  Utah. — A  seam  of  bituminous  coal,  about  six  feet  thick,  has  been 
explored  on  Webber  creek,  a  few  miles  from  Great  Salt  Lake  City.  It  is  nearly 
horizontal  in  position,  overlaid  by  strata  of  sandstone  and  a  deposit  of  conglome- 
rate. 

Coal  has  also  been  found  at  Beaver  creek,  aboiit  300  miles  south  from  Salt 
Lake. 

The  Vaxcouver  Islaxd  Mixes  are  being  w^orked  to  some  extent.  Exports 
in  June  from  the  Nanaimo  mine  reached  3,G36  tons,  and  July  4,676  tons, 

Tlie  imports  of  this  coal  at  San  Francisco  during  the  past  three  years  has  been 
a^  follows;  18G5,  18,181  tons;  1866,  10,852  tons;  1867,  9,160  tons,  for  first 
six  months  only. 

Concluding  Remarks. — The  existence  of  coal  along  the  northwest  coast 
of  the  Pacific  has  been  known  since  the  discovery  of  the  country.  The  seams 
cropping  out  in  tlie  face  of  nearly  every  bluff  and  promontory  from  Oregon  to 
Sitka  are  too  conspicuous  to  have  been  overlooked.  The  cost  of  and  difficulty 
in  procuring  labor  and  transportation,  as  well  as  the  lack  of  enterprise  on  the 
part  of  the  settlers  along  the  coast,  have  retarded  the  development  of  this  impor- 
tant resource.  The  condemnation  of  valuable  discoveries  Iw  pretended  experts 
on  account  of  presumed  subterranean  disturbances  in  the  vicinity  has  discouraged 
capitalists  from  testing  the  value  of  many  good  mines.  It  is  proper  here  to 
remark  that  the  subterraneous  disturbances  on  this  coast  arc  remarkably  local  in 
their  effects,  rarely  extending  for  any  considerable  distance.  The  developments 
in  the  Mount  Diablo  district  illustrate  this  fact.  The  section  in  this  district  on 
which  is  located  the  Peacock,  Pacheco,  and  San  Francisco  mines  is  found  to  be 
so  much  broken  and  distmbed  as  to  render  the  workings  of  these  mines  unprofit- 


WEST    OF   THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS  241 

ftblo,  wliilf  to  the  north  aiul  south  the  coal  has  not  \)vcn  hvokcn  or  disphiccd.  It 
is.  thcrc'l'oro,  probaldo  that  many  bodies  of  coal  whicli  are  now  considered  too 
much  broken  tt)  jiay  for  develoi)ment  will  be  found  valuable  on  more  thorough 
examination. 

The  extent  of  the  coal  formation  on  the  Pacific  coast  is  surprising.  IMr.  Fou- 
oonlt.  a  French  gentleman,  who  spent  several  years  examining  the  ncu'thern  coast 
ft-oiu  Washington  Terri<(n'y  to  the  newly -acquired  territory  of  Alaska,  states  that 
anthracite  exists  at  Skidegate  inlet,  Queen  Charlotte's  island,  and  that  a  seam 
of  the  same  kind  of  coal  is  seen  cropping  out  on  the  mainland  opposite,  about 
40  miles  distant.  Specimens  have  been  sent  to  San  Francisco,  where  they  were 
examined  by  competent  persons,  who  pronounced  them  of  good  quality.  The 
extent  of  these  deposits  is  unknown,  but  they  establish  the  fact  of  the  existence 
of  anthracite  on  this  coast. 

Vancouver's  island  contains  sheets  of  coal,  wliich  maybe  seen  cropping  out  at 
various  points  along  its  shores  on  the  east  and  west.  From  Cape  Flattery  t^ 
Admiralty  inlet,  in  Washington  Tenitory,  there  is  an  almost  continuous  outcrop 
of  coal.  The  Fuca  Straits  mine,  described  above,  is  only  16  miles  from  the 
croppings  on  Neah  bay.  Unfortunately  this  part  of  the  coast  is  destitute  of  a 
good  harbor,  or  doubtless  the  coal  would  have  been  developed  to  a  ranch  greater 
extent.  But  capital  and  engineering  skill  can  overcome  even  this  defect  if  the 
inducements  are  sufficient. 

From  the  above  data  it  will  be  seen  that  the  coal  deposits  west  of  the  Rocky 
mountains,  though  yielding  an  inferior  quality  of  coal,  are  quite  extensive,  and 
furnish  such  promise  of  improvement  as  to  justify  the  belief  that  the  supply  will 
be  sufficient  in  the  futm'e  for  the  demands  of  all  branches  of  industry  on  the 
Pacific  coast. 

Marble,  Limestoxe,  &c. — The  use  of  marble  for  domestic,  artistic,  and 
fmieral  purposes  is  very  general  in  California,  especially  in  San  Franciscu. 
Marble  mantels,  tables,  and  slabs  arc  to  be  found  in  almost  every  residence, 
workshop,  and  store.  The  graves  of  all,  save  the  iitterly  friendless  dead,  are 
adorned  with  marble  tablet  or  monument  of  some  kind.  This  taste  has  created 
an  important  branch  of  productive  industry. 

There  are  fourteen  factories  engaged  in  the  manufactures  of  marble  in  San 
Francisco,  some  of  which  emi)loy  30  or  40  men._  One  has  steam  machinery  for 
cutting  and  polishing  the  marble,  and  tm-ns  out  3,000  feet  of  slabs  per  month, 
in  addition  to  tombstones,  mantels,  and  other  ornamental  work.  There  are  mar- 
ble factories  at  Sacramento  and  Marysville,  and  one  at  each  of  the  following 
towns  in  the  interior:  Stockton,  Sonora,  Petaluma,  Santa  Cruz,  San  Jose,  Dow- 
nieville,  Folsom,  and  other  places.  Probably  1,000  persons  are  employed  in 
California  quarrying,  transporting,  and  working  marble. 

The  consumption  in  San  Francisco  averages  500  cubic  feet  per  month ;  the 
factories  in  the  interior  use  about  one-fourth  as  much ;  total  consumption  in  the 
State,  say  GOO  feet  per  month,  or  7,200  feet  per  annum.  The  average  price  of 
marble  at  present  is  $5  per  foot.  It  thus  ajipears  that  the  value  of  the  raw 
material  used  in  this  business  amounts  to  $36,000  annually.  The  value  of  manu- 
faclured  marble  in  the  State  is  estimated  at  $2,-'>00,000. 

The  most  singular  and  suggestive  feature  in  this  business  is  presented  in  the 
fact  that,  altliough  Calif(,>rnia  contains  an  abundance  of  marble  of  great  beauty 
and  variety,  most  of  that  used  in  San  Francisco  is  imported  from  Italy  or  New 
York.  This  fact  may  be  attributed  to  the  want  of  g(X>d  roads  and  cheap  trans- 
portation. It  is  found  more  economical  to  bring  the  raw  material  from  Genoa, 
Italy,  including  transhipment  at  Bordeaux  or  ]\iarseilles,  than  from  the  foot  hills 
in  the  State,  less  than  100  miles  from  Stockton  or  Sacramento. 

There  are  two  firms  in  San  Francisco  engaged  in  the  importation  of  marble. 
Brigadelli  &  Co.  are  in  the  Italian  branch  of  the  business.     They  own  a  vessel 
of  300  tons  register,  sailing  between  San  Francisco  and  Genoa.     Large  quanti- 
16 


242  RESOURCES     OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

ties  are  In-ooglit  Iw  Frencli  vessels  from  French  ports.  From  June,  1866,  to 
June,  1867,  this  firm  imported  545  tons  of  Italian  marble  and  had  600  tons  more 
on  the  way,  the  whole  of  which  was  sold,  leaving  orders  still  unfilled.  The 
present  jn-ice  of  Italian  marble  is  50  cents  per  superficial  foot,  in  slabs  of  seven- 
eighths  of  an  inch  thick ;  in  Idocks  of  ordinary  dimensions,  $5  per  cubic  foot ; 
blocks  weighing  several  tons,  at  $6  per  cubic  foot.  California  marble  cannot  be 
laid  down  in  San  Francisco  at  these  rates.  Myers  &  Co.  import  Italian  marble 
from  New  York,  vrhere  it  is  brought  in  vessels  from  Genoa.  This  firm  also 
imports  white  marble  from  Vermont,  which  sells  at  $15  per  cubic  foot,  being  used 
in  the  finer  kinds  of  work.  Some  of  the  ornamental  mantels  in  the  homes  of  the 
wealthy  cost  $750  to  $1,000  each. 

The  marble  dust  used  in  the  preparation  of  effervescing  beverages  is  imported 
from  New  York.  Five  hundred  tons  annuallv  are  consumed,  at  a  cost  of  about 
$30  per  ton. 

The  cost  of  transportation,  which  gives  the  imported  marble  a  monopoly  of  the 
markets  along  the  coast,  prohibits  its  introduction  in  the  interior.  All  the  facto- 
ries in  towns  above  Sacramento,  Marysville,  and  Stockton  use  the  native  marble, 
because  it  is  cheapest  at  these  places.  With  reference  to  the  quality  of  the 
Pacific  coast  marble,  as  compared  w'ith  the  impoi-ted  article,  the  fact  should  be 
taken  into  consideration  that  it  is  excavated  from  near  the  surface.  None  of  the 
(piarries  have  been  opened  to  any  considerable  depth;  consequently  the  marble 
is  scarcely  as  fine  in  color  or  texture  as  it  will  be  found  at  a  greater  depth.  Much 
of  it,  nevertheless,  when  compared  with  the  Italian,  loses  nothing  by  the  contrast. 
Many  samples  of  the  California  marble  are  superior.  The  block  of  white  mar- 
ble, from  the  quany  at  Columbia,  Tuolumne  county,  from  which  the  sculptor 
Devine  formed  the  bust  of  the  late  Senator  Bi  oderick,  compares  favorably  with 
the  Carrara  in  color,  texture,  and  purity. 

The  recently-discovered  quarries  of  black  and  white  marbles  near  Colfax, 
Piacer  county,  on  the  line  of  the  Central  Pacific  railroad,  will  probal)ly  stop  the 
importations  from  Italy.  The  beauty  of  the  black  marble  from  this  locality,  the 
exquisite  polish  it  retains,  and  the  advantage  the  owners  of  the  quarry  possess  in 
railroad  communication,  which  enables  them  to  deliver  it  at  San  Francisco  cheaper 
than  the  Italian,  will  probably  give  it  the  control  of  the  market. 

There  are  many  localities  in  California  where  quarries  of  marble  are  known  to 
exist,  but,  with  few  exceptions,  they  remain  undeveloped.  A  belt  of  limestone 
traverses  the  State  from  north  to  south,  between  the  foot  hills  and  the  Sierras, 
said  to  be  20  miles  wide,  forming  a  prominent  feature  in  the  topography  of  the 
counties  famous  for  placer  gold,  particularly  in  Tuolumne,  Calaveras,  Amador, 
Nevada,  El  Dorado,  and  Placer  counties.  Tliis  belt  aV)ounds  in  white  or  grayish 
marble;  and  it  is  not  inqjrobable  marble  of  variegated  colors  will  be  found  on 
more  thorough  examination,  as  local  causes  are  known  to  control  the  color.  In 
illustration,  it  may  be  stated  that  in  the  gulch  on  the  south  side  of  the  road 
between  Columbia  and  Gold  Springs,  Tuolumne  county,  there  are  bodies  of 
marble  of  a  jetty  blackness,  colored  by  manganese ;  on  Matelot  gulch,  about  a 
mile  to  the  east,  there  is  a  deposit  of  marble  which,  through  the  action  of  salts 
of  iron,  has  been  mottled  with  red,  brown,  yellow,  blue,  and  green  spots;  on 
Mormon  gulch,  about  three  miles  to  the  west,  are  masses  of  mai'l)le  of  very  fine 
texture  veined  with  i)ale  green  by  the  action  of  cldorine.  This  variet}'  of  color 
is  not  peculiar  to  that  locality,  but  may  be  observed  throughout  the  State.  The 
Suisun  marble,  of  Solano  county,  and  the  black  and  white  marbles  recently 
found  near  Colfax,  Placer  county,  are  cases  in  point. 

Little  attention  has  thus  far  been  j)aid  to  the  marble  quarries  of  the  State, 
because  the  working  of  them  has  not  been  profitable,  except  in  a  few  localities. 
As  soon  as  railroads  and  cheaper  labor  shall  remove  existing  impediments, 
they  \vill  piobably  become  a  som'ce  of  profit^  both  to  individuals  and  to  the 
State. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  243 

The  most  iinpoi-tant  qufiiTics  at  present  worked  are  the  following  : 

TxpiAN  DiGOiNGS. — This  (inarry  is  kicated  on  the  limestone  belt,  above 
refenx'd  to,  in  El  Dorado  oonnty.  It  was  opened  in  1857.  A  considerable 
quantity  of  marble  has  been  taken  from  it,  darkly  and  coarsely  marked  with 
gray  and  black.  It  is  very  beautiful  in  large  masses,  but  has  a  smeary  appear- 
ance in  small  pieces;  it  is  susceptible  of  a  high  polish,  which  it  retains  well. 
Monuments,  after  exposure  for  10  years  to  the  heat  and  cold  pe(;uliar  to  the  foot 
hills  of  California,  are  as  bright  and  glossy  on  the  sm-face  and  edges  as  when 
erected. 

The  CoLFiTBiA  is  located  on  the  same  limestone  belt,  on  the  Tuolumne  county 
side  of  south  fork  of  Stanislaus  river,  near  Abbey's  Ferry,  70  miles  from  Stock- 
ton, the  head  of  navigation  on  the  San  Joacpiin  river.  This  quarr^^  was  opened 
in  18G0,  and  has  been  well  developed.  The  quality  of  the  marble  is  fine  in 
grain  and  nearly  white,  with  pale  gray  pencillings,  and  has  improved  with  the 
depth  of  the  workings.  Blocks  of  20  feet  square,  without  flaw  or  blemish,  may 
be  obtained  from  this  quany.  Machinery  was  erected  for  working  it,  and  a  mill 
built  for  cutting  the  blocks  into  slabs  and  polishing  them.  The  works  consisted 
of  a  revolving  derrick  with  a  boom  60  feet  in  length,  by  means  of  Mdiich  two 
men  could  take  blocks  weighing  10  to  15  tons  from  any  part  of  the  quany  and 
place  them  on  cars  which  ran  on  a  track  laid  around  it  and  connected  with  the 
mill.  This  mill  had  100  saws  and  four  polishing  machines,  moved  l:»y  water 
power.  ]\Iany  thousands  of  tons  of  marble  were  cut  here  between  1862  and 
1866.  The  increase  of  imjioitations,  erection  of  similar  machinery  at  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  the  impossibility  of  sending  the  product  to  market  during  the  winter, 
owing  to  the  want  of  good  roads,  has  caused  the  proprietors  to  cease  operations, 
except  during  the  summer.  Some  of  the  handsomest  monuments  in  the  State  are 
made  of  this  marble;  that  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  late  Senator  Broderick, 
in  the  Lone  Mountain  cemetery,  at  San  Francisco,  is  a  beautiful  specimen. 

The  Colfax  Quarmes. — The  most  noted  of  these  was  discovered  in  1866, 
in  the  mountains  bordering  the  Bear  river,  about  two  miles  to  the  east  of  the 
town  of  Colfax,  Placer  coimt}^,  near  the  line  of  the  Central  Pacific  railroad. 
The  marble  differs  from  all  others  found  on  the  coast,  being  a  dark  gray,  with 
jet  black  venation.  When  polished  it  is  very  beautiful.  The  mantels  in  the 
new  Bank  of  California  are  made  of  this  marble,  which  contributes  to  the  beauty 
of  the  interior  of  that  structure. 

The  proprietors  of  the  quarry  are  among  the  first  to  derive  direct  benefit  from 
the  Central  I'acific  railroad,  and  their  case  illustrates  how  great  an  advantage 
that  road  will  be  in  developing  the  resources  of  the  State.  Without  such  a 
means  of  transportation  the  marVile  could  not  be  delivered  at  San  Francisco  for 
less  than  S20  per  ton;  with  it  frciglit  is  only  $8  per  ton.  The  owners  of  the 
quarry  at  Colmnbia  pay  SIO  per  ton  for  hauling  their  marble  to  Stockton  when 
the  roads  are  good,  but  from  SI  2  to  S15  per  ton  during  the  winter,  with  an  addi- 
tion of  $2  per  ton  from  tliat  place  to  San  Francisco  by  water.  The  expenses 
for  transportation  are  still  higlier  from  the  Indian  Diggings  quarry.  Expense 
of  transportation  alone  has  thus  far  prevented  the  development  of  this  valuable 
resource,  and  cost  the  State  as  much  for  imported  marble  as  would  have  nearly 
paid  tor  a  railroad  to  the  quarries. 

There  is  a  quany  of  nearly  white  marble  recently  discovered  on  the  Ap])leton 
ranch,  about  seven  miles  from  Colfax  and  two  miles  from  the  raih-oad.  Some 
fine  blocks  have  been  sent  from  it  to  San  Francisco. 

Both  these  ([uarries  are  in  the  limestone  belt. 

The  SuisUN  marble  is  found  in  the  Peleoo  Hills,  a  short  distance  north  of 
the  city  of  Suisun,  Solano  county.  It  occurs  in  the  form  of  irregular  beds,  in  a 
peculiar  sandstone  formation,  and  is  of  various  shades  of  brown  and  yellow, 
beautifully  blended  in  l)ands  and  threads,  similar  to  the  famous  stalagmites  of 
Gibraltar,  which  it  resembles  in  origin  and  structiu-e,  as  well  as  in  appearance. 


244  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

It  lias  "been  fonnecl  by  water,  holding  lime  and  iron  in  solution,  percolating 
throng'li  the  sandstone  and  depositing  the  mineral  in  cavities;  consequently  it  is 
only  found  in  limited  quantity,  though  much  of  it,  of  an  impure  quality,  is 
burned  for  making  lime. 

Other  Localities  where  Marble  has  been  eotind. — A  quarry  of  marble 
has  been  opened  recently  on  Butte  creek,  about  40  miles  from  Oroville,  Butte 
county,  near  the  lately-discovered  iron  mines.  The  quality  is  good,  the  color 
gray  and  white,  and  the  deposit  extensive,  being  on  the  limestone  belt. 

There  are  other  localities  in  the  State  where  marble  has  been  found,  but  the 
explorations  have  been  too  limited  to  deteraiine  their  value. 

In  May,  1867,  Mr.  J.  R.  Brown  discovered  and  located  a  quany  of  marble  a 
few  miles  north  of  Auburn,  Placer  county,  of  a  nearly  white  color.  Samples 
sent  to  San  Francisco  are  considered  fine.     The  quantity  is  abundant. 

A  marble  quany  has  also  been  found  to  the  south  of  the  Bay  of  Monterey,  in 
the  Coast  range. 

Limestone  and  Lime. — The  supply  of  these  materials  is  abundant  in  nearly 
all  parts  of  California.  The  great  belt  of  limestone  so  frequently  refeii'ed  to 
furnishes  materials  for  lime  for  the  towns  in  the  foot  hills  and  among  the  Sien-as ; 
while  in  the  coast  range  there  are  other  calcareous  rocks,  which  supply  the 
demands  for  lime  in  the  towns  and  cities  along  the  coast  and  on  the  plains.  The 
consumption  of  lime  at  San  Francisco  averages  about  100,000  baiTcls  annuallj*, 
three-fourths  of  which  is  obtained  from  the  vicinity  of  Santa  Cruz,  on  the  ranch 
of  the  Canada  del  Rincon,  where  there  is  a  supply  of  white  metamoi-phic  lime- 
stone, which  makes  good  lime.  Considerable  quantities  are  also  brought  fi'om 
Sacramento.  Since  the  completion  of  the  Central  Pacific  railroad  in  that  vicinity, 
lime  is  brought  to  San  Francisco  from  near  Auburn  and  Clipper  Gap,  Placer 
county.  About  5,000  barrels  are  brought  to  Sacramento  monthly  by  the  railroad, 
and  the  supply  is  increasing  with  the  facilities  for  its  preparation  and  transpor- 
tation. 

The  imports  of  lime  at  San  Francisco,  since  1864,  have  been  as  follows : 

Barrels. 

18(54 73,553 

1865 90,037 

1866  89,786 

1867  (for  first  six  months  only) 67,840 

Total 321,216 


Average  price  during  this  time,  $2  25  per  baiTcl.  The  consumption  of  lime 
in  San  Francisco  during  the  past  three  and  a  half  years  has  cost  $722,736.  The 
increase  of  brii-k  and  stone  buildings  during  the  latter  half  of  1867  has  greatly 
augmented  the  consmnption  of  lime. 

The  construction  of  railroads  and  increase  in  buildings  in  the  interior  towns 
has  also  increased  the  consumption.  The  lime  used  for  various  purposes  in  the 
State  annually  probably  exceeds  $1,000,000  in  value. 

The  Golden  City  Chemical  Works,  at  San  Francisco,  have  made  a  few  tons  of 
chlonde  of  lime  as  an  experiment,  but  the  demand  for  this  compound  is  so  small 
on  this  coast  that  its  manufacture  is  unimportant.  It  was  ascertained  in  making 
these  experiments  that  the  California  lime  will  not  absorb  as  much  chlorine  as 
that  made  in  the  Atlantic  States  or  Europe.  This  may  be  the  effect  of  a  variety 
(»f  causes;  but  it  is  of  importance,  both  in  practice  and  to  science.  Some  of  the 
English  lime  will  absorb  50  i)er  cent,  of  chlorine.  None  obtained  in  California 
would  take  up  30  per  cent.  The  general  per  cent,  of  chlorine  in  imported 
chloride  of  lime  does  not  exceed  10.     It  loses  its  strength  during  the  voyage. 

Other  Calcareous  Minerals — Sulphate  of  Lime. — There  are  deposits 
of  this  mineral  in  various  forms  in  all  the  States  and  Territories  on  this  coast.  It 
is  valuable  when  burned  as  a  fertilizer  on  hea\y  clay  lands,  such  as  constitute 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  245 

mucli  of  ''tnle"  and  "adobe"  bottoms  in  California.  It  is  abimdant  in  the  coast 
range.  A  body  of  it  is  found  in  the  form  of  selenite  in  the  hills  near  Stockton, 
within  a  few  miles  of  the  San  Joaquin  river. 

Considerable  quantities  of  the  same  mineral  are  known  to  exist  in  most  of  the 
mountains  which  have  been  examined  for  silver  in  Alpine  county,  among  the 
the  high  Sierras. 

Sulphate  of  lime,  in  the  form  of  alabaster,  is  found  in  Tuolumne,  Los  Angeles, 
Solano,  and  several  other  counties. 

Near  Silver  City,  Story  count}^,  Nevada,  alabaster  of  great  beauty  is  found, 
but  it  soon  crumbles  on  exposure  to  the  atmosphere.  In  1862  this  deposit  was 
quarried  as  marble.  It  was  soon  discovered  that  blocks  cut  from  it  fell  to  pieces, 
and  were  useless  for  building  and  ornamental  pm'poses ;  but  it  makes  good  plaster 
of  Paris. 

Beds  of  friable  sulphate  of  lime  exist  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Sulphur  Springs, 
near  Red  Bluffs,  Tehama  county,  in  the  fonn  of  loose  grains,  deposited  by  the 
waters  of  the  thermal  springs,  which  cover  acres  of  ground  in  the  vicinity.  All 
the  hot  springs  on  this  coast  deposit  sulphate  of  lime,  in  some  form  or  other. 

In  the  Granite  mountains,  between  Chico,  in  Tehama  county,  and  Idaho,  there 
are  numerous  deposits  of  gypsum.  Anhydrate,  or  dry  sulphate  of  lime,  is  fountl 
in  Plumas  and  Sierra  counties.  Professor  Whitney,  State  geologist  of  California, 
has  various  specimens. 

Excellent  materials  ft)r  the  manufacture  of  plaster  of  Paris  exist  on  this  coast. 
Considering  the  simpleness  of  its  preparation  it  is  remarkable  that  its  manu- 
facture has  not  been  attempted.  The  imports  of  plaster  of  Paris  amount  to 
about  6,000  baiTcls  annually  at  San  Francisco,  at  an  average  cost  of  $4  per 
ban-el,  or  nearly  S25,000  per  annum.     Nearly  all  imported  is  from  New  York. 

Dolomite  or  Magkesian  Limestone. — This  mineral  has  been  found 
dming  the  present  year,  on  the  Merced  river,  between  Horseshoe  Bend  and  Don 
Pedro's  bar.  It  is  fine  gi'ained,  of  a  yellowish  gray  color,  having  much  the 
appearance  of  "Turkey  stone,"  and  is  prized  for  hones  for  sharpening  razors, 
penknives,  &c.  It  has  been  mistaken  for  lithographic  limestone.  The  deposits 
are  abundant,  and  it  may  ultimately  be  found  an  important  resource. 

Hydraulic  Limestone. — California  contains  deposits  of  this  valuable  mineral, 
of  good  quality.  The  best  known  are  found  in  a  range  of  hills  at  the  back  of 
Benicia,  Solano  county.  Hydraulic,  or  Benicia  cement,  as  it  is  called,  is  made 
here  in  considerable  quantities,  a  company  having  been  incorporated  in  1860 
for  the  purpose  of  canying  on  its  manufacture.  The  company  has  good  machinery, 
kilns,  and  the  necessary  arrangement  for  making  several  thousand  barrels  per 
month.  An  impetus  has  been  given  to  this  business  by  the  action  of  the  State 
harbor  commissioners,  who  having  charge  of  the  construction  of  the  sea-wall,  in 
the  harbor  of  San  Francisco,  have  had  experiments  made  with  the  various  cements. 
The  Benicia  cement  proving  satisfactory-,  has  been  selected  for  use  in  the  wall, 
which  will  be  several  miles  in  length,  and  of  great  depth  and  thickness,  and 
will  consequently  require  many  thousand  tons  of  cement.  This  action  of  the 
commissioners  has  had  a  tendency  to  remove  a  prejudice  that  had  been  cultivated 
by  interested  parties  against  the  California  cement.  The  imports  of  cement  have 
been  heavy  for  several  years  at  San  Francisco,  the  damp  nature  of  the  founda- 
tions in  the  business  portions  of  the  city  requiring  the  bricks  or  stones  to  be  laid 
in  cement  for  several  feet  in  extensive  l)uil<lings.  In  1866,  23,812  barrels  were 
imported,  at  a  cost  of  $91,648.  During  the  first  six  months  of  1867,  14,517 
baiTcls  were  imported,  at  a  cost  of  $50,000.  These  figures  show  the  importance 
of  this  business. 

The  mineral  in  the  vicinity  of  Benicia  is  found  in  a  series  of  deposits  extend- 
ing for  several  miles.  Though  there  does  not  appear  to  be  any  regular  stratum 
of  it,  there  is  sufficient  to  last  for  many  years,  should  the  consumption  reach  100,000 
barrels  annually. 


246  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

Hydraulic  limestone  is  a  sub-carbonate  of  lime,  wliicli  owes  its  value  to  its  prop- 
erty of  hardening  under  water,  to  a  certain  proportion  of  clay  in  its  composition. 
Too  much  clay  causes  it  to  set  too  slowly,  while  too  little  renders  it  unfit  for  use 
as  a  cement.  It  is  necessary  to  make  this  explanation  to  render  the  following 
statements  intelligible : 

There  are  two  varieties  of  this  mineral  at  Benicia,  the  one  making  a  cement 
which  hardens  very  rapidly,  the  other  ver}-  slowly.  Experience  and  obser\"ation 
prove  that  a  combination  of  the  two  makes  a  hard,  durable  cement,  which  may  be 
regulated  to  harden  in  any  required  time.  Common  limestone  exists  near  the 
cement  rock.  The  workmen  first  employed  in  making  the  cement,  not  being 
aware  of  the  difference,  mixed  all  together  in  the  kilns ;  the  consequence  was  to 
spoil  the  whole,  and  give  tlie  product  a  bad  character  in  the  market.  But  the 
processes  for  its  preparation  are  now  better  understood,  and  the  workmen  more 
experienced.  Such  contaminations  are  avoided,  and  a  really  good  cement  is 
prepared. 

This  Benicia  cement  stone  is  of  a  dark  yellowish  color,  speckled  with  black, 
tolerably  soft;  breaks  with  a  dull,  earthy  fracture,  without  any  appearance  of 
crystalization. 

The  following  table  gives  the  results  of  some  of  the  experiments  made  wdth 
various  kinds  of  cements,  to  test  the  time  each  requii-es  for  "setting"  in  the  air 
and  under  water : 


Composition. 

Time  setting 
in  air. 

Time  setting 
in  water. 

Jst  quality  Benicia  cement. 

3 

25 

50 

30 

1.00 

J. 20 

1.50 

5 
30 
1.00 
50 
1.20 
1.50 
3.10 

8 
30 
1.20 
45 
1.50 
2.40 
4.10 

10 

Sd  quality  Benicia  cement 

50 

Mixture  of  both ^.. .. 

1.25 

Roman  cement 

1.00 

Eastern  cement 

2.20 

Mixture  of  equal  parts  Benicia  cement  and  sand. 

3.10 

Mixture  of  one  part  of  Benicia  cement  and  two  parts  sand 

5.25 

This  cement  is  much  used  in  the  manufacture  of  drainage  and  water  pipes. 
There  are  several  factories  of  these  articles  in  California.  Miles  of  such  pipe 
are  laid  down  in  Sau  Francisco.  Other  places  in  the  Coast  range  and  foot  hills 
have  been  found  where  cement  stone  is  known  to  exist.  On  the  banks  of  Hos- 
pital creek,  a  few  miles  south  of  Corral  Hollow,  San  Joaquin  county,  there  is  a 
deposit  of  it  similar  in  appearance  and  composition  to  that  worked  at  Benicia. 

Within  the  past  few  months  a  hydraulic  limestone  has  been  discovered  in 
Washington  Temtory,  on  the  Columbia  river,  about  seven  miles  north  from 
Astoria.  Works  are  in  course  of  erection  to  manufacture  cement  at  this  place. 
There  can  ])e  ])at  little  doubt  that  this  mineral  will  be  found  abundantly  all 
along  this  coast  whenever  an  intelligent  search  shall  be  made  for  it.  The  meta- 
morphosis of  the  rocks  in  the  Coast  range  has  been  of  a  natm-e  to  form  it  exten- 
sively. 

Ohegox. — Limestone  and  marble  are  not  so  abundant  in  this  State  and  the 
Territories  north  and  west  as  in  California.  As  mentioned  in  the  report  on  iron, 
the  Oregon  smelting  works  have  to  import  the  limestone  used  in  that  establish- 
ment from  the  Island  of  San  Juan.  The  limestone  fonnation  extending  from 
Siskiyou  to  Los  Angeles,  in  California,  does  not  appear  to  extend  into  Oregon. 
At  all  events,  its  existence  has  not  been  reported. 

The  recent  discovery  of  a  bed  of  limestone  on  Beaver  creek,  Clackamas  county, 
about  18  miles  from  the  Willamette,  is  considered  of  much  importance  by  the 
local  press.     It  is  presumable  this  mineral  is  scarce  in  that  part  of  Oregon. 


WEST    OF   THE    KOCKY   MOUNTAINS.  247 

Nevada. — In  addition  to  the  alabaster  mentioned  above,  in  Story  county, 
cement  roek  lias  been  fonnd  in  the  I'inewood  district,  Humboldt  county,  and  at 
many  other  places.  No  marble  has  thus  far  been  found  in  this  State,  l)ut  there 
is  sutiicient  carbonate  of  lime  in  other  forms,  in  nearly  all  parts  of  it,  to  supply 
material  for  makini>'  liine  for  building*  purjioses. 

Building  jMateeials. — The  mountainous  nature  of  the  Pacific  coast,  and 
the  ijeolo2;ical  formations  to  which  the  rocks  composing  the  mountains  belong', 
suggest  the  existence  of  a  great  variety  of  building  materials.  Few  countries 
possess  greater  abundance  or  variety  of  these  materials  than  California,  and  there 
are  few  cities  in  the  United  States  where  equal  opportunities  are  afforded  for 
comparing  the  merits  of  the  materials  used  in  other  coimtries  with  those  obtained 
at  home,  than  are  presented  at  San  Francisco.  In  the  early  days  of  this  city 
everything  was  imported,  from  bread  and  clothing  for  its  inhabitants  to  lumber, 
brick  and  stone  for  their  houses.  The  city  hall  is  built  of  Australian  freestone, 
several  of  the  banks  and  other  large  edifices  are  built  of  Chiiux  granite,  and  there 
are  hundreds  of  steps,  pillars,  lintels,  and  other  portions  of  buildings,  of  sand- 
stone and  granite  imported  from  the  Atlantic  States  and  Europe.  The  founda- 
tions of  many  of  the  old  buildings  in  the  city  are  laid  on  imported  bricks.  None 
of  these  materials  are  found  to  be  as  durable  or  as  handsome  as  those  since  obtained 
in  California.  In  this,  as  in  other  mineral  resources,  the  cost  of  labor  and  trans- 
portation has  impeded  development.  It  is  only  under  favorable  conditions  that 
stone  for  building  will  pay  to  ship  to  San  Francisco  from  the  interior  of  the 
State;  while  the  cheapness,  excellence,  and  abundance  of  the  lumber,  and  the 
general  adaptability  of  the  soil  for  the  manufactm-e  of  bricks,  cause  these  materials 
to  be  used  for  building  almost  everywhere  throughout  the  State.  The  intro- 
duction of  iron  mouldings  for  the  decorative  portions  of  large  structures  prevents 
a  demand  for  stone  for  such  purposes.  The  Bank  of  California  building,  at 
San  Francisco,  is  the  only  structure  of  cut  stone  of  any  magnitude,  outside  of 
the  government  fortifications,  on  the  Pacific  coast.  Under  such  cuxumstances 
little  attention  is  paid  to  opening  quarries  to  test  the  quality  of  the  stone.  The 
consumption  of  stone  is  confined  to  granite  for  curbing  and  paving  the  streets, 
and  the  basements  and  steps  for  a  few  of  the  more  costly  buildings  at  San  Fran- 
cisco. 

The  following  details  concerning  the  supply  of  building  materials  will  show 
how  varied  and  valuable  they  are  in  California: 

Granite. — Quames  of  this  rock  are  in  nearly  every  county,  including  portions 
of  the  foot-hills  or  sierras.  But  as  none  of  them  are  convenient  to  railroads  or 
rivers,  except  the  following,  only  these  will  be  referred  to : 

The  oldest  and  best  known  ks  located  near  Folsom,  Placer  county ;  another 
quany  worked  to  some  extent  exists  at  Natoma,  in  the  canon  of  the  American 
river,  a  few  miles  from  the  first;  another  at  Eocklin,  22  miles  from  Sacramento; 
and  a  fourth  at  Penryn,  28  miles  from  that  city.  The  last  two  are  on  the  line 
of  the  Central  Pacific  railroad. 

There  is  a  marked  difference  in  the  appearance  of  the  rock  from  these  several 
quames.  That  from  Folsom  is  hard  and  dark,  containing  feathery  crystals  of 
black  hornblende  in  patches,  on  a  dark  bluish-gray  ground  of  quartz  and  feldspar. 
Very  little  mica  exists  in  any  of  the  California  granite.  That  from  Natoma  is 
as  dark  as  that  from  Folsom,  l)ut  the  components  being  more  evenly  distributed 
gives  it  a  lighter  appearance.  The  stone-cutters  consider  this  the  best  rock  for 
smooth  blocks.  It  has  a  clean  and  fresh  appearance,  never  changing  color.  The 
granite  from  Eocklin  is  of  a  nearly  snowy  whiteness,  remarkably  fine  grained, 
and  free  from  stains  and  blotches,  and  is  susceptible  of  a  fine  finish.  The  upper 
portion  of  the  State  capitol  at  Sacramento  is  being  built  of  this  stone.  The 
nioiddings  and  other  architectural  ornaments  are  cut  with  sharpness  and  elegance. 
The  lower  jiortion  of  the  structure  is  built  of  the  Folsom  stone,  which  has  a  dark 
and  dingy  appeai-ance  in  compai'ison  wnth  the  lighter  and  marble-like  stono  above. 


248  RESOURCES    OF   STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

The  fortifications  in  course  of  construction  near  San  Francisco  are  being  built 
of  Penrj^n  granite,  which  is  somewhat  darker  than  that  from  Rocklin,  but  lighter 
than  the  others  described  above.  The  basements  of  nearly  all  the  large  stores 
and  warehouses  in  San  Francisco  are  built  of  Folsom  rock.  The  quarries  at 
Rocklin  are  very  extensive.  It  is  possible  to  break  off  blocks  of  large  dimen- 
sions— masses  100  feet  long  by  100  feet  deep,  and  10  feet  thick,  have  been 
ijuarried  out  and  afterwards  split  into  smaller  blocks,  of  any  required  thickness, 
across  the  grain,  by  means  of  gads  and  sledges.  The  rock  splits  evenly.  There  is 
a  body  of  this  rock  several  miles  in  length  and  breadth  and  of  unknown  depth. 

In  San  Francisco  are  10  stone-yards,  at  which  about  350  men  are  employed 
dressing  and  trimming  granite  for  building  and  paving  pui'poses.  These  yards 
use  about  400  tons  of  stone  per  month.  The  curbs  and  crossings  of  the  principal 
streets  are  made  of  this  rock.  There  are  20  miles  of  such  cm-bing  and  cross- 
walks. The  Central  Pacific  railroad  carries  about  5,000  tons  of  granite  from 
Rocklin  and  Penryn  to  Sacramento,  the  greater  portion  of  which  is  brought 
to  San  Francisco  by  schooners.  About  1,000  tons  per  month  are  brought  from 
the  quarries  at  Folsom  and  Natoma. 

The  price  of  granite  at  San  Francisco  is  $1  50  per  cubic  foot,  or  821  per  ton 
in  blocks  delivered  at  the  wharf.  The  cost  of  trimming  it  is  high;  stone-cutters 
being  paid  $4  per  day  in  gold  for  nine  hours  work. 

Sandstones,  &c. — Brown  stone  of  good  quality  for  building  pm'poses  is 
quarried  near  Hayward's,  Alameda  county.  Some  of  this  stone  is  used  in  the 
city  cemeteries  as  bases  for  monuments  and  for  building  vaults.  Its  sombre 
appearance  is  considered  an  advantage. 

Greenish-gray  sandstone  is  obtained  from  Angel  island,  in  the  Bay  of  San 
Francisco.  Of  this  beautiful  stone  the  new  building  of  the  Bank  of  California 
has  been  built.  The  scroll-work  and  sculpture  on  the  front  are  fine  and  smooth 
in  outline  as  if  cut  in  marble,  while  the  color  is  soft  and  pleasant  to  the  eye. 
Each  pillar,  lintel,  and  post  of  the  doors  and  windows  is  formed  of  a  single  block, 
some  of  them  10  feet  in  length.  The  wheels  used  in  the  linsqed  oil  factory  at 
Steamboat  Point  are  also  made  of  Angel  Island  stone.  These  wheels  are  seven 
feet  in  diameter  and  18  inches  thick,  each  weighing  five  tons. 

In  several  of  the  interior  counties  are  deposits  of  a  variety  of  trachytes,  form- 
ing portions  of  table  mountain,  which  make  good  materials  for  buildings.  It 
is  generally  of  a  pinkish  or  gray  color,  fine  in  grain,  and  when  first  taken  from 
the  quarry  is  sufficiently  soft  to  be  trimmed  with  a  common  hatchet,  but  a  few 
months'  exposure  to  the  air  renders  it  quite  hard.  A  valuable  deposit  is  found 
near  Mokelumne  Hill,  Calaveras  county.  Wells  &  Fargo's  office,  several  hotels, 
and  other  buildings  in  that  town  are  made  of  it.  Some  of  these  buildings  are 
14  years  old,  and  the  stones  in  them  retain  the  marks  and  edges  as  when  fii'st 
made. 

A  quany  of  freestone,  of  a  pale  drab  color  and  fine  texture,  is  found  near 
Marsh's  creek,  six  miles  from  the  Mount  Diablo  coal  mines. 

Near  the  Merced  river,  in  Mariposa  county,  on  the  road  between  Bear  Valley 
and  Stockton,  there  are  beds  of  freestone  well  adapted  to  building  purposes. 
The  stone  is  of  a  pleasant  pinkish  tint,  with  wavy  lines  of  brown  and  piu^ple, 
and  is  compact  and  stands  exposure  well.  With  cheap  transportation  it  would 
become  a  favorite  for  many  purposes,  as  it  can  be  cut  cheaper  than  granite,  and 
is  better  adajited  to  building  than  marble,  and  is  more  elegant  and  durable  than 
brick. 

Bricks. — The  manufacture  of  bricks  is  carried  on  extensively  in  nearly  every 
county  in  the  State.  The  tough  clay  of  the  Sacramento  valley  probably  makes 
the  best.  Some  of  the  earth  used  in  one  or  two  localities  along  the  coast  in 
early  times,  contained  a  per  centum  of  soda  and  potash.  Such  bricks  are  ill- 
suited  for  a  climate  as  humid  as  that  of  San  Francisco.  The  moisture  causes 
the  alkali  to  exude,  injuring  the  paint  or  plaster  with  which  the  bricks  are  covered. 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  249 

The  consumption  of  bricks  at  San  Francisco  amounts  to  about  100,000,000 
annually.  Tlio  average  price  is  $12  per  1,000.  About  20,000,000  are  used 
aninially  in  tli(>  interior  of  the  State,  at  an  average  cost  of  -$10  per  1,000.  Until 
recently  the  bricks  made  were  the  product  of  hand  labor.  A  brick-making 
machine  was  introduced  in  July,  18G7.  The  increase  of  building  consumes  all 
that  are  made.  The  city  corporation  uses  nuiny  millions  annually  in  the  con- 
struction of  sewers,  of  which  there  are  10  miles  within  the  city  limits. 

Hoofing-  Slates. — Notwithstanding  the  abundance  of  slate  on  this  coast, 
but  little  of  it  tit  for  roofing  purposes  has  thus  far  been  found.  The  use  of 
shingles,  asphaltum,  and  tin  for  roofing,  which  are  so  much  cheaper  and  lighter 
than  slate,  is  almost  general,  so  that  l)ut  little  inducement  is  hehl  out  to  furnish 
slate.  In  1865  a  company  was  organized  in  Amador  county  for  the  purpose  of 
working  a  slate  quarry  found  in  that  county.  Experienced  Welsh  slaters  were 
interested  in  the  enterprise.  They  say  the  Amador  slate  is  quite  equal  to  any 
found  in  "Wales.  The  causes  above  stated,  together  with  the  cost  of  labor  and 
transportation,  rendered  the  enterprise  unjirofitable,  and  it  was  abandoned.  No 
doubt  a  proper  search  would  result  in  the  discovery  of  an  abmidant  supply  of  roof- 
ing slates  on  this  coast. 

Steatite,  on  SoArsTOis^E,  though  not  strictly  a  building  material,  is  classed 
under  this  head  because  it  is  valuable  in  various  departments  of  arts  and  man- 
ufactures. There  are  localities  in  all  the  States  and  Temtories  on  this  coast, 
except  Arizona,  where  this  mineral  is  known  to  exist  in  great  abundance,  but 
its  consumption  is  limited  at  present.  Only  one  or  two  deposits  are  found  pro- 
fitable to  work,  and  these  only  to  an  inconsiderable  extent.  There  is  but  one 
establishment  on  the  coast  for  the  manufacture  of  articles  from  soapstone.  This 
is  at  San  Francisco,  where  it  was  commenced  in  1866.  As  marble  can  be  obtained 
cheaper  than  this  stone,  its  use  is  confined  to  blocks  for  lining  furnaces,  slabs 
for  the  chemical  works,  linings  for  stoves,  beds  for  ovens,  &c.  Its  peculiar  property 
of  standing  a  high  temperature,  and  retaining  the  heat  a  long  time,  makes  it  val- 
uable for  such  purposes.  About  200  tons  are  used  at  San  Francisco  annually ; 
part  of  it  in  the  form  of  powder  by  soap-makers,  chemists,  boot-makers,  and  others. 
Twenty  tons  of  this  powder  are  sold  annually  at  $3  per  100  pounds.  The  price 
of  the  stone,  in  blocks,  is  S4  80  per  cubic  foot,  or  $40  per  ton.  In  slabs  of  one 
inch  thick,  75  cents  per  superficial  foot. 

Most  of  that  used  at  San  Francisco  is  brought  from  near  Placerville,  El  Dorado 
county,  where  the  company  owning  the  factory  have  a  claim  containing  3,000 
feet  in  length  on  a  bed  of  this  material  363  feet  wide,  and  there  are  "extensions" 
on  the  same  "  lead  "  for  miles  on  both  sides  of  the  original  claim.  Other  quarries 
are  worked  to  some  extent — one  near  Sonora,  Tuolumne  county;  another  on 
Santa  Catalina  island,  off  the  southern  coast,  near  Santa  Barbara;  another  on 
the  south  of  the  San  Jose  valley,  near  the  city  of  San  Jose,  in  Santa  Clara 
county  5  another  at  Copperopolis,  in  Calaveras  county,  &c. 

The  cost  of  transportation  from  Placerville  amounts  to  $12  per  ton  for  freight 
alone,  divided  as  follows:  For  hauling  by  team  from  quarry  to  railroad,  nine 
and  a  half  miles,  $6  per  ton ;  by  railroad  to  Sacramento,  40  miles,  $4  per  ton ; 
to  San  Francisco  by  steamer,  S2  per  ton. 

The  California  steatite  is  superior  to  that  obtained  in  the  Atlantic  States  or 
Europe  for  many  important  pui-poses.  It  contains  neither  mica  nor  iron.  The 
Golden  City  Chemical  Works,  an  extensive  establishment,  uses  steatite  to  line  the 
retorts  for  distillation  of  nitric  and  sulphuric  acids.  When  commencing  opera- 
tions this  company  imported  steatite  from  New  York,  which,  owing  to  its  con- 
taining mica  and  iron,  was  soon  destroyed  by  the  fumes  of  the  acids.  Induced 
to  try  some  of  the  California  stone,  it  was  found  to  last  for  a  long  time,  the  acids 
having  but  little  elfect  on  it. 

Don  Abel  Steams  states  that  when  he  came  to  California,  in  1825,  the  com- 
mon people  cooked  their  food  in  vessels  made  of  this  stone,  which  is  abundant 

\ 


250  EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

in  all  the  soutlicni  counties,  and  almost  as  soft  as  wood.  These  "crocks'*  were 
made  of  various  sizes,  usually  about  an  inch  thick  on  the  sides  and  two  inches 
on  the  bottom.  Such  vessels  are  occasionally  found  hj  the  surface  miners  in 
various  parts  of  the  State.  Parcels  of  California  steatite  have  been  exported  to 
China,  wliere  it  is  used  for  various  pmi^oses. 

The  furnaces  at  the  copper-smelting-  works  at  Aubrey  City,  Arizona,  are  lined 
with  steatite  taken  from  Santa  Catalina  island. 

Clays. — Under  this  heading  will  be  included  materials  used  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  pottery,  glass,  colors,  &;c. 

As  already  stated,  reference  can  only  be  made  to  such  products  of  the  earth 
as  are  of  immediate  economical  importance.  Many  minerals  of  interest  and 
prospective  value  must  necessarily  be  passed  without  notice,  and  several  articles 
of  dissimilar  natures  are  included  under  one  head,  for  the  purpose  of  securing 
conciseness. 

Clay,  suitable  for  the  manufacture  of  fire-bricks,  is  found  beneath  the  coal  in 
the  Mount  Diablo  coal  mines,  in  Contra  Costa  county ;  at  Grass  Valley,  Nevada 
county  ;  near  Colusa,  Colusa  county,  and  at  other  places  in  California,  Nevada, 
and  Oregon. 

Clay  suitable  for  pottery  is  found  near  Marsh's  creek,  six  miles  west  of  the 
Mount  Dial:)lo  coal  mines ;  also  at  Pratt's  Hill,  near  lone  City,  Amador  county, 
in  the  foot-hills. 

The  raanufactm-e  of  pottery  is  canied  on  to  some  extent  in  all  the  Pacific 
States  and  Territories.  In  California  there  are  factories  of  earthenware  at  Sau 
Francisco  ;  Antioch,  Contra  Costa  county;  San  Antonio,  Alameda  county ;  Mon- 
terey, Sacramento,  San  Jose,  Santa  Clara  county,  and  at  several  other  places. 
In  Nevada  there  is  a  pottery  near  Virginia  City,  at  which  brownstone  ware  is 
made  from  clay  obtained  in  the  vicinity.     There  are  several  potteries  in  Oregon. 

The  establishment  at  Antioch  was  commenced  in  1867.  Various  kinds 
of  earthenware,  both  coarse  and  fine,  are  made  here.  It  gives  employment  to 
about  a  dozen  moulders  and  throwers,  and  a  number  of  laborers.  The  potters 
work  by  contract,  earning  from  $3  to  $7  per  day,  according  to  tliek  industry  and 
the  description  of  wares  made. 

The  cosmopolitan  character  of  the  population  of  California  is  singularly  illus- 
trated by  the  articles  made  at  this  pottery.  The  French,  German,  Mexican, 
Russian,  Chinese,  and  other  nationalities  represented  here,  each  require  differ- 
ently-shaped crocks  and  pots  in  their  culinary  and  other  domestic  arrangements. 
The  storehouse  of  the  pottery,  in  which  a  stock  of  these  goods  is  kept,  presents 
a  curious  medley  of  oddly-shaped  articles  made  from  designs  to  suit  the  tastes 
of  all  classes  of  customers. 

Some  of  the  moulded  teapots,  jugs,  and  water-pitchers,  made  in  imitation  of 
French  and  English  ware,  arc  very  handsome,  and  exhibit  the  excellence  of  the 
material  used  as  well  as  the  skill  of  the  workmen.  Fancy  articles  of  many 
kinds,  cornices  and  mouldings,  crucibles,  muffles,  fire-bricks,  and  tiles,  drainage 
pipes,  and  a  variety  of  other  articles  used  by  the  local  manufactories,  are  made 
here. 

The  clay  is  obtained  from  the  deposit  which  underlies  the  coal  at  Mount  Diablo. 

The  pottery  at  San  Fiancisco  is  located  at  the  Mission.  Stoneware  and  utensils 
used  by  refiners,  assaycrs,  metal hu-gists,  artists,  and  manufacturers  are  made  here. 
Tfie  clay  is  obtained  from  a  deposit  near  Michigan  Bar,  Sacramento  county. 

There  is  a  bed  of  good  fire-clay  near  Grass  Valley,  Nevada  county. 

Kaolix. — Deposits  of  this  clay  are  found  in  Marin,  Amador,  Tuolumne, 
Calaveras,  and  several  other  counties.  It  exists  in  many  places  in  the  coast 
range,  the  foot-hills,  and  the  high  Sierras.  One  of  the  most  noted  of  these 
deposits  is  at  Michigan  Bar,  Sacramento  county.  In  El  Dorado  county  there  is 
a  peculiar  deposit  of  pure  white  clay,  formed  by  the  decomposition  of  the  granite 
in  the  vicinity,  which  is  well  adapted  to  the  manufactm'e  of  porcelain. 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  251 

Pipe  Clay. — This  material  has  been  found  near  Dutch  Flat,  Placer  county, 
and  at  San  Jose,  Contra  Costa  county ;  also  in  Tuolumne,  Amador,  and  Calaveras 
comities,  ami  at  several  other  localities  in  the  Coast  range  and  loot-hills. 

COLOKINO  Earths,  &c. — Terra  de  sienna,  umber,  red,  yelhnv,  and  other 
ochreous  coloring  earths,  are  found  in  abundance  and  ])urity  in  many  places 
in  the  Coast  range  and  foot-hills  of  California.  Several  deposits  have  been 
opened.  The  colors  prepared  from  them  are  varied  and  excellent.  The  liuiited 
jnarket  for  their  sale,  and  the  importations  from  the  Atlantic  States  and  Europe, 
render  their  manufacture  on  a  large  scale  unprofitable,  though  considerable  quan- 
tities arc  used  by  the  local  painters  and  others. 

The  most  noted  of  these  ochreous  deposits  was  discovered  in  1860,  near  the 
towii  of  Martinez,  Contra  Costa  county.  Six  -well-defined  beds  of  ochre  have 
been  found  in  this  locality,  which  range  from  10  to  20  feet  thick,  and  extend 
from  El  Humbre  creek  to  San  Pablo  bay,  a  distance  of  six  miles.  In  1862 
a  company  was  organized  to  make  colors  from  these  materials.  A  factory,  with 
a  20-liorse  power  steam  engine,  for  grinding  the  colors,  was  erected,  and  about  100 
tons,  of  as  many  as  84  tints,  from  white  to  black,  embracing  a  pale  biifl'  and 
bright  Vermillion,  were  prepared.  But  the  causes  above  mentioned  rendered  the 
enterprise  unprofitable,  and  it  was  abandoned  within  a  year  of  its  commencement. 
Some  of  the  colors  made  are  as  bright  to-day  as  when  first  prepared. 

In  1806  a  deposit  of  teiTa  de  sienna  was  found  on  Gold  gulch,  about  six  miles 
fi'om  San  Lorenzo,  Santa  Clara  county.  Yellow  ochre  is  found  in  the  same 
locality. 

There  are  bodies  of  coloring  earth,  red,  purple,  and  white,  about  live  miles 
west  of  lone  City,  Amador  county,  which  form  a  portion  of  what  is  known  as 
Pratt's  Hill,  a  promontory  extending  some  distance  into  the  Sacramento  valley 
from  the  foot-hills. 

Beds  o'  sienna  and  umber  exist  in  the  mountains  in  the  vicinity  of  San  Jose, 
Santa  Clara  county.     Fuller's  earth  is  found  in  the  same  locality. 

Red  ochre  is  found  on  Red  Rock,  in  the  harbor  of  San  Francisco,  and  at  other 
places  along  the  coast. 

The  above  localities  are  named  because  the  materials  found  in  them  have  been 
used  and  are  known  to  be  valuable.  But  there  are  many  localities  where  color- 
ing earths,  clays,  &c.,  are  known  to  exist,  which  are  omitted  because  they  have 
not  been  developed. 

Sands. — Since  the  introduction  of  the  manufactm'e  of  glass  at  San  Francisco, 
the  quality  of  the  sand  along  the  coast  has  been  tested  in  order  to  obtain  a  sup- 
ply of  such  as  is  best  adapted  to  this  business.  Much  of  the  sand  obtained  along 
the  shores  of  the  harbor  of  San  Francisco  contains  too  much  iron  to  be  nsed  in 
making  glass.  Near  the  harbor  of  Monterey  there  is  an  exhaustless  supply,  free 
from  impm'ities.  The  sand  used  by  the  glass  factories  is  imported  chiefly  from 
this  place.  A  small  quantity  is  obtained  along  the  bay  shore  in  Alameda  county, 
near  Oakland.  Eight  miles  north  of  Santa  Cruz  there  is  a  hill  of  wliite  sand 
well  ada])tcd  to  glass-making,  being  free  from  iron  and  manganese. 

The  sand  dunes,  which  form  a  peculiar  feature  in  the  scenery  at  some  points 
in  the  V)ay  of  San  Francisco,  do  not  contain  materials  suitable  for  glass-making. 
The  pinky  hue  of  these  dunes  is  imparted  l)y  the  grains  of  iron  they  coiitain. 
Tliey  are  not  without  value  nevertheless.  Parties  owning  them  make  as  large 
a  revenue  from  tlieir  product  as  is  derived  from  e(pial  (juantities  of  fertile  soil. 
This  sand  is  adapted  to  buildJiig  purposes,  for  which  it  is  used.  Small  vessels 
are  employed  in  canying  it  to  Najia  and  other  counties  where  suitable  sand 
is  scai-ce.  Such  vessels  me  charged  $5  per  cargo.  It  sells  at  $1  50  per  ton  to 
brickmakers  and  builders  in  the  interior. 

The  consumption  of  sand  for  glafs-making  is  considerable.  Two  glass  works 
at  San  Francisco  make  8250,000  of  glassware  annuall}-,  giving  employment  to 
about  15Q  men  and  boys.     These  works  make  nearly  all  the  wine  bottles,  carboys, 


252  EESOUECES   OF   STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

dcmijoliiis,  piclde,  spice,  ami  sauce  bottles,  &c.,  used  in  California.  Tliey  also 
make  lamp  cliimneys,  vials,  and  chemical  glasses.  The  Pacific  Glass  Works 
was  estaljlished  in  1860,  and  has  been  enlarged  during  1867.  It  recently  made 
12  retorts  of  white  glass  for  one  of  the  local  chemical  works,  each  of  which  holds 
20  gallons;  and  24  others  of  16  gallons  each,  for  another  chemical  establish- 
ment. These  operations  show  the  capacity  of  the  glass  works,  as  well  as  the 
extent  of  the  chemical  preparations  made  in  San  Francisco.  Glass  for  the  light- 
houses in  this  district  was  made  at  one  of  these  factories.  Preparations  are  nearly 
complete  for  manirfactming  window  and  plate-glass. 

Plumbago,  or  Blacklead. — This  mineral  is  found  in  several  localities  in 
California  and  Nevada.   The  largest  deposit  exists  neiir  Sonora,  Tuolumne  county. 

As  the  exports  from  that  place  have  recently  assumed  some  commercial  import- 
ance, a  description  of  the  principal  mine  there,  and  of  the  processes  used  to  pre- 
pare the  lead  for  market,  may  be  interesting. 

The  Eureka  Plumbago  Mine  was  discovered  by  its  present  owners  in 
1853,  while  they  were  working  a  placer  mine  in  the  vicinity.  Its  value  was 
not  ascertained,  however,  till  1865,  when  a  process  was  discovered  by  which  the 
earthy  matter  ^vith  which  the  mineral  is  contaminated  near  the  surface  could  be 
separated.  Since  that  discovery,  several  hundred  tons  of  plumbago  have  been 
collected,  nearly  all  of  which  has  been  exported  to  England,  France,  and  Ger- 
many, the  demand  being  very  limited  in  California.  The  returns  from  the  shi  pments 
to  Europe  have  been  satisfactory.  The  work  of  development  has  since  been 
can-ied  on  successfully.  The  exports  to  Liverpool  amounted  to  300  tons  between 
July  and  September,  1867,  the  estimated  value  of  which  is  $100  per  ton.  There 
is  some  plumbago  at  present  in  course  of  shipment.  The  total  quantity  sent 
from  the  mine  up  to  1st  of  September,  1867,  was  about  500  tons. 

The  Mine. — The  lode  or  vein  from  which  this  mineral  is  obtained  extends 
about  4,000  feet  in  a  northeasterly  direction,  conformable  to  the  general  stratifica- 
tion of  the  country,  and  ranges  from  20  to  40  feet  in  width.  It  is  considerably 
broken  up  and  mixed  with  the  surrounding  earth  and  rock  to  the  depth  of  30 
feet  from  the  surface.  Below  this  it  appears  to  be  well  defined  between  walls  of 
sandstone  and  claystone.  It  dips  irregularly  to  the  east,  in  some  places  being 
nearly  vertical,  at  others  lying  at  various  angles.  The  northern,  or  under  side, 
rests  on  a  stratum  of  coarse,  pliable,  yellow  sandstone,  which  is  much  broken 
near  the  surface,  but  is  compact  and  solid  at  a  depth  of  30  feet.  The  upper 
side  is  enclosed  in  a  soft  clay  slate,  which  rapidly  disintegrates  ui)on  exposure  to 
the  atmosphere,  but  is  shai'ply  defined  and  hard  below.  The  lode  is  frequently 
divided  by  lenticular  masses  of  this  clay  slate,  from  a  few  inches  to  several  feet 
in  thickness,  which  have  their  longer  axis  in  the  same  direction  as  the  lode.  It 
is  also  divided  by  lateral  dikes  of  sandstone,  similar  in  appearance  to  the  imder- 
lying  wall  rock,  but  hai'der.  The  whole  formation  abuts  on  the  eroded  carbon- 
iferous limestone,  which  forms  a  peculiar  feature  in  the  geology  and  topography 
of  tliat  section  of  the  foot-hills  which  embraces  Tuolumne,  Calaveras,  and  Ama- 
dor counties. 

A  shaft  sunk  on  the  lode  to  the  depth  of  65  feet,  revealed  the  fact  that  the 
mineral  is  purer  and  more  solid  at  that  depth  than  near  the  surface.  At  the 
greatest  depth  reached  it  was  found  to  be  25  feet  wide,  and  much  of  it  sufficiently 
pure  to  be  ship{)cd  without  any  preparation. 

Processes  for  Cleaning  the  Ore. — As  stated  above,  a  great  portion  of  the 
mineral  taken  out  below  the  siuface  influences  is  shipped  without  any  prepara 
tion  whatever.  Two  laborers  extract  and  sack  about  two  tons  of  the  pure 
material  daily.  Such  of  it  as  is  contaminated  by  admixture  with  the  wall  rock  or 
the  enclosed  masses  of  clay  slate  is  wheeled  out,  washed,  and  dried  before  ship- 
ment. All  the  operations  in  the  mine  are  carried  on  in  open  cuts ;  everything 
taken  out  from  the  surface  downwards  being  washed  that  is  not  pure  enough  to 
ehip  without  such  preparation. 


WEST    OF   THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  2r3 

TnE  Separating  Works. — These  consist  of  reservoirs,  settliiiir  vats,  and 
drying  frames.  The  chief  Avashing  apjiaratus  consists  of  a  sort  of  arrastra,  or 
puddUnp-  macliinc,  having-  a  bed  20  feet  in  diameter,  witli  water-tight  sides  tlireo 
feet  high.  In  the  centre  of  this  vat  is  a  stout  npright  post  witli  four  arms  set  at 
right  angles,  to  which  are  attached,  by  chains,  four  wooden  frames  with  oalvcii 
teeth,  like  roughly  made  Iuutows.  The  teeth,  or  pegs,  are  only  intended  to  stir 
up  the  materials,  which  readily  separate  in  water.  To  grind  them  would  render 
the  separatit)n  difficult.  A  small  water-wheel  sets  this  apparatus  in  motion,  and 
separates  about  50  tons  daily,  the  average  of  which  produces  30  per  cent,  of  puio 
graphite^,  which  is  separated  bj  passing  a  small  stream  of  water  through  the 
machine.  The  graphite,  being  liner  and  lighter  than  the  sand  and  slate,  is  held  sus- 
pended near  the  smface  of  the  water,  which  passes  out  through  a  shallow  spout 
near  the  top,  taking  the  graphite  with  it,  falling  gently  into  a  ^'sand  box,"  a  long, 
shallow  trough,  in  which  any  remaining  impurity  is  precipitated.  From  this 
box  the  water  containing  the  fine  particles  of  graphite  is  conveyed  by  iron  pipes 
into  large  reservoirs  capable  of  holding  from  3  to  20  days'  production.  After 
remaining  in  these  reservoirs  for  about  24  hours,  the  graphite  subsides  to  the 
bottom  in  the  form  of  a  black  slum,  the  water  above  being  quite  clear ;  this  is 
let  off  by  means  of  suitable  aiTangemcnts  for  that  puipose,  till  the  sediment 
is  only  sufficiently  fluid  to  flow,  when  it  is  run  into  a  series  of  shallow  vats 
arranged  conveniently  around  the  resen^oirs.  An  exposure  to  the  sun  for  24 
liours  in  these  vats  is  suflicient  to  dry  it  to  the  consistence  of  tough  clay,  when 
it  is  cut  up  into  iiTegularly-shaped  blocks  and  placed  on  wooden  staging  for  a 
few  hours  and  becomes  hard  and  dry,  and  is  then  put  up  in  sacks  weighing  about 
300  pounds  each. 

The  capacity  of  the  works  at  present  is  sufficient  to  turn  out  500  tons  per 
month,  but  it  can  be  indefinitely  extended  to  meet  the  demand.  In  addition  to 
the  puddling  machine  there  are  several  small  separating  apparatuses,  which  are 
worked  by  hand,  producing  about  five  tons  of  blacklead  per  week. 

The  labor  on  the  mine  is  performed  by  Chinamen,  of  whom  there  are  about 
30  employed,  who  are  each  paid  $8  per  week  without  board. 

A  great  waste  of  matolal  ■  occurs  from  the  want  of  experience  in  working ; 
still  the  mine  is  profitable. 

The  Costs  of  Production. — The  owners  estimate  the  costs  for  excavating, 
washing,  drying,  and  bagging  the  pure  material  at  $1  per  ton.  The  sacks  used 
cost  about  $2  for  each  ton.  Freight,  by  teams  to  Stockton,  the  head  of  naviga- 
tion on  the  San  Joaquin  river,  ranges  from  68  to  $9  per  ton,  (the  distance  is 
about  65  miles;)  from  Stockton  to  San  Francisco,  by  steamer,  $1  50  per  ton; 
by  sailing  vessels,  81  per  ton;  from  San  Francisco  to  Liverpool,  whence  all  that 
can  be  prepared  is  sent,  the  freight  is  from  $12  50  to  $14  per  ton,  or  thus: 

Cost  of  preparation  per  ton |1  00 

Ba^s,  per  ton 2  00 

Freight  to  Stockton,  per  ton 9  00 

Freif^ht  to  San  Francisco,  per  ton 1  .50 

Freight  to  Livei-pool,  per  ton 14  00 

Commissions,  insurance,  &c.,  per  ton 12  50 

Total  costs 40  00 

Its  maiket  price  is  about  $100  per  ton. 

Other  Deposits  of  Graphite. — Other  bodies  of  this  mineral  are  found  in 
California  and  Nevada,  but  they  JU'e  all  insignificant  in  value  when  compared  to 
that  above  described.  Among  them  is  one  within  the  limits  of  the  city  of  Sonora, 
about  a  mile  south  from  the  Eureka  mine.  This  has  been  worked  to  some 
extent.  It  is  pmbably  part  of  the  main  lode.  There  is  anothcj-  body  of  it  on 
Jarvis's  ranch,  notir  Gold  Springs,  about  four  miles  north  from  the  Eureka,  also 
supposed  to  be  a  portion  of  the  main  lode.     It  has  not  been  examined  sufficiently 


254  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

to  test  its  extent.  Small  deposits  of  this  mineral  are  found  in  Marin,  Plumas, 
and  Sierra  covmties. 

A  body  of  metamorphosed  limestone  exists  on  the  border  of  Tomales  bay,  in 
the  Coast  range,  which  contains  graphite  in  thin  scales.  There  is  a  somewhat 
similar  deposit  near  Summit  City,  Alpine  county,  among  the  lofty  peaks  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada. 

Another  body  of  plumbago  is  found  near  Fort  Tejon,  at  the  junction  of  the 
Coast  range  and  Sierra  Nevada. 

The  surveyors  engaged  by  the  Central  Pacific  Raiboad  Company  report  the 
existence  of  this  mineral  in  the  Tmckee  canon,  Nevada,  also  near  Crystal  peak. 
It  has  also  been  found  in  Storey,  Washoe,  Ormsby,  and  Lander  counties,  in  that 
State,  but  generall}^  of  an  inferior  quality,  though  but  little  effort  has  been  made 
to  test  the  quality  below  the  surface. 

Impoetan^ce  of  Graphite  in  the  Arts. — Reference  to  some  of  the  pur- 
poses for  which  this  mineral  is  used  in  the  arts  and  man\»factureR  will  exhibit  the 
influence  a  full  supply  of  it  will  have  on  these  important  brandies  of  industry. 

The  manufacture  of  blacklead  pencils  gives  employment  to  thousands  of  per- 
sons in  Europe.  Millions  of  these  indispensable  articles  are  annual!}^  imported. 
No  suitable  material  for  their  manufacture  has  heretofore  been  discovered  in  our 
own  dominion. 

Crucibles  made  of  this  material  are  indispensable  for  melting  gold  and  silver, 
because  they  withstand  the  high  temperature  necessary  to  melt  these  metals,  and 
do  not  absorb  the  metal.  It  is  also  used  in  tlio  manufacture  of  gunpowder. 
By  ooating  the  grains  with  graphite  the}^  are  not  only  polished,  but  their  explo- 
sive power  is  greatly  increased.  Good  blasting-powder  contains  nearly  one-tenth 
of  its  weight  in  graphite. 

It  is  also  of  importance  in  the  art  of  clectrotyping,  being  one  of  the  best  known 
conductors  of  electricity  for  that  purpose. 

Il  is  employed  as  an  anti-friction  for  the  bearings  of  heavy  machinery. 

Also,  foi  covering  the  moulds  for  iron,  brass,  and  bronze  castings,  unparting 
a  smooth  smiace  to  these  metals,  and  for  numerous  other  purposes  not  necessary 
to  particulari7x\ 

So  much  importance  is  attached  to  the  supply  of  this  mineral  in  Europe,  that 
in  1860,  when  a  Mr.  Brockedon  invented  a  process  by  which  the  powder  from 
the  European  mines  was  solidified  by  hydraulic  pressure,  he  was  hailed  as  a 
public  bencl'actor,  and  was  honored  by  special  marks  of  distinction  from  the 
highest  scientific  associations  and  many  of  the  crowned  heads  of  Europe. 

The  plumbago  obtained  in  California  is  so  much  finer  and  ])urcr  than  that 
prepared  in  l']urope,  that  a  demand  for  it  has  akeady  been  created. 

When  it  is  taken  into  consideration  that  the  same  pressure  (50,000  tons)  used 
to  solidify  the  powder  of  graphite  will  also  solidify  iron  filings,  pulverized 
anthracite,  and  other  im})urities,  it  will  be  perceived  that  such  a  process  affords 
a  convenient  means  for  adulteration  ;  while  the  simple  but  effective  process  used 
in  California  leaves  the  graphite  pure.  This  mineral  will  probably  become 
in  time  an  article  of  export. 

Salt. — Next  to  coal,  no  mineral  is  more  neccssarj^  to  the  prosperity  of  a  State 
than  salt.  Of  this  article  the  States  and  Territories  on  the  Pacific  coast  possess 
an  abundance.  But  for  the  high  price  of  capital  and  labor,  and  the  difiiculties 
of  transjiortation,  it  might  be  produced  as  cheaply  here  as  in  other  parts  of  the 
Union. 

The  following  statement  will  convey  an  idea  of  the  nmnber  of  salt  deposits 
on  this  coast  and  the  extent  of  their  development. 

Salt  in  California. — The  product  at  present  reaches  about  25,000  tons 
annually,  about  three-fourths  of  which  is  made  in  Alameda  county,  on  the  eastern 
side  of  the  bay  of  San  Francisco,  where  there  are  works  for  concentrating  and 
evaporating  the  waters  which  cover  the  marsh  land  in  that  locality.     These  works 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  255 

extend  from  Centrcvillc  to  the  San  Lorenzo  ereok,  a  ilistance  of  fifteen  miles. 
They  are  the  property  of  17  companies,  and  some  imlividiials.  The  agi^vegate 
capital  invested  is  about  $1,200,000.  One  hundred  laborers  are  employed  in  tho 
business  during  the  season.  The  works  arc  such  as  are  usually  constructed  for 
obtaining  salt  from  sea  water,  and  do  not  require  special  description.  Till  recently 
Ihe  salt  collected  was  of  an  inferior  quality,  but  experience  has  cflccted  an 
impi-ovement.  I'liere  are  six  steam  mills  in  San  Francisco,  chiefly  employed  in 
cleaning  and  preparing  it  for  domestic  purposes.  The  cajiital  invested  in  this 
branch  of  the  business  is  about  S2o0,000.  These  mills  during  1866  ground  and 
jircjiared  24.500  tons  of  bay  salt,  which  will  probably  be  exceeded  during  1867. 

The  works  connnenced  in  1860.  The  importation  of  foreign  salt  has  since 
fallen  off.  The  total  imports  for  1866  did  not  exceed  7,000'"tons,  about  5,000 
of  which  were  from  Carmen  island.  Gulf  of  California,  and  2,000  from  Liverpool, 
•which  consisted  of  a  refined  article  for  table  and  dairy  use.  The  quantity  imported 
from  England  in  1867  is  less  than  in  1866,  in  consequence  of  the  local  salt  makers 
preparing  a  better  article  which  they  sell  at  a  lower  price. 

Salt  works  are  established  in  San  Bernardino  county,  the  products  of  which 
were  formerly  sent  to  the  San  Francisco  market.  But  the  cheapness  of  the  bay 
salt  and  the  costs  of  transportation  from  so.  great  a  distance  have  driven  it  out 
of  this  market,  though  it  is  used  in  the  southern  comities. 

In  1867  works  for  collecting  salt  were  erected  near  San  Rafael,  Santa  Clara 
county. 

Saline  springs  and  marshes  exist  in  various  parts  of  the  State,  from  which  salt 
is  obtained ;  but  as  it  is  consumed  in  the  locality,  no  estimate  of  the  amount  can 
be  made. 

A  spring  about  14  miles  from  Los  Angeles  yields  a  good  salt,  shipments  of 
which  were  formerly  sent  to  San  Francisco.  Five  hundred  tons  of  it  were  received 
in  1866,  but  for  the  reasons  given  in  the  case  of  San  Bernardino,  it  is  now 
unprofitable  to  transport  it  so  great  a  distance. 

A  deposit  of  salt  is  found  in  the  Tehachepi  valley,  Tulare  county,  from  which 
a  small  quantity  was  obtained  during  the  summer  of  1867. 

Salt  beds  and  saline  springs  are  found  in  the  valley  of  Kern  river,  Tularo 
county,  10  miles  from  tho  mouth  of  the  Canada  de  las  Uvas.  The  country  for 
miles  is  impregnated  with  salt.  Holes  dug  in  the  ground  during  the  wet  season 
fill  rapidly  wUh  brine,  which  deposits  a  coating  of  salt  when  dried  dming  the 
shimmer. 

The  consumption  of  salt  has  increased  in  California  during  the  last  four  years, 
owing  to  the  demand  created  by  new  manufactures.  The  cod  fishery  in  the  Ochotsk 
sea,  commenced  in  1864,  requires  a  supply  of  the  coarse  article.  The  vessels 
engaged  in  this  fishery  in  1865  cured  587  tons  of  fish ;  in  1866,  960  tons,  and  in 
1867  will  probably  cure  1,000  tons.      * 

The  increase  in  pork  and  beef  packing  has  increased  the  consumption  of  salt. 

The  success  of  the  chlorination  process  for  working  auriferous  sulpluirets  has 
also  increased  the  consumption,  the  chlorine  used  being  generated  from  this  mine- 
ral. The  chlorination  works  in  the  vicinity  of  Grass  valley,  Nevada  county, 
consume  about  1,000  tons  per  annum. 

Farmers  consume  it  as  a  lertilizcr,  for  which  it  is  well  adai)ted  on  light,  gravelly, 
or  heavy  loamy  soils  intended  for  wheat.     They  also  use  it  in  l)aling  liay,  &c. 

The  increased  production  of  butter  and  cheese  has  materially  increased  the 
demand  for  refined  salts.  The  returns  of  42  counties  for  1866  show  a  ])roduction 
uf  2,250,000  poiiads  of  butter.  The  product  of  cheese  in  27  counties  amounted 
to  1,601,782  pounds.  The  product  of  both  butter  and  cheese  will  probably  be 
one-half  larger  in  1807  than  in  1866.  These  figures  show  the  importance  of  the 
salt  trade,  and  the  reasons  for  predicting  its  futu^re  increase. 

Salt  in  Oreoox  is  prepared  fi-om  brine  obtained  from  springs,  of  which  there 
are  numbers  in  the  Willamette  and  Umpqua  valleys,  and  at  other  places.     Salt 


256  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

works  are  located  in  Douglas  county,  in  the  Umpqna  valley,  wliicli  for  several 
years  past  have  produced  from  700  to  1,000  pounds  of  salt  daily  during  the  sum- 
mer season.  But  the  distance  from  Portland,  the  chief  market,  prevents  the 
owners  from  deriving  any  advantage  from  that  market.  A  cheaper  supply  is 
furnished  from  the  works  erected  in  the  lower  Willamette  valley. 

The  Willamette  Salt  Works  are  located  about  13  miles  from  Portland, 
half  way  between  that  city  and  St.  Helens,  and  half  a  mile  from  the  banks  of 
the  Willamette  slough.  A  range  of  low  hills  at  this  locality  extend  nearly  east 
and  west  for  about  20  miles,  at  the  base  of  which  are  the  salt  springs.  From 
one  of  them  the  brine  used  by  the  works  is  obtained.  By  means  of  a  single  fur- 
nace this  spring  yielded  from  600  to  700  pounds  of  salt  daily  when  the  works 
were  commenced ;  but  for  several  months  past  it  has  yielded  4,000  pounds  per 
day.  _ 

This  salt  is  pure  and  white.  Samples  of  it  analyzed  by  Professoi-  W.  P.  Blake 
were  found  to  be  free  from  lime  and  magnesia,  making  it  peculiarly  adapted  for 
use  in  preparing  butter,  fish,  and  meats. 

Mr.  Blake  took  samples  to  the  Paris  exhibition,  where  it  was  admired  for  its 
cr^'stallization,  pi;rity  and  color. 

Springs  in  Jackson  county  produce  about  10,000  pounds  annually  of  a  similar 
quality  of  salt. 

Beds  of  rock  salt  are  reported  to  exist  near  the  base  of  Mount  Jefferson,  in 
the  Cascade  range  of  mountains. 

Salt  ix  Nevada. — There  is  probably  no  portion  of  the  globe  so  abundantly 
supplied  with  salt  as  the  State  of  Nevada.  Thousands  of  acres  of  its  surface 
are  covered  with  saline  marshes  and  beds  of  salt,  and  there  are  lofty  mountains 
within  her  borders  composed  of  rock  salt  of  the  purest  quality.  A  detailed 
account  of  these  deposits  will  be  found  in  that  part  of  the  report  relating  to  the 
miscellaneous  resources  of  Nevada. 

Salt  in  Arizona,  somewhat  similar  to  that  at  Pahranagat,  has  been  discov- 
ered near  the  Muddy  river,  about  100  miles  from  the  Big  bend  of  the  Colorado. 
This  body  of  rock  salt  is  stated  to  be  nearly  a  mile  wide,  several  miles  in  length, 
and  nearly  400  feet  high. 

Salt  in  Utah. — The  Great  Salt  lake,  in  this  Territory,  is  a  prolific  source 
of  this  mineral.     Its  waters  are  more  saline  than  those  of  any  similar  lake  known. 

Carmen  Island  Salt  is  obtained  from  Carmen  island,  near  the  harbor  of 
Loreto,  Lower  California,  about  1,800  miles  from  San  Francisco. "  This  bed  of 
salt  is  three  miles  in  length  by  half  a  mile  wide,  and  is  the  property  of  the  Mexi- 
can government,  who  supply  it  to  vessels  at  a  stipulated  price.  It  has  recently 
been  leased  or  purchased  by  the  Ilolliday  Steamship  Compony.  It  is  similar  in 
quality  and  appearance  to  that  found  at  Sand  Springs,  Nevada.  Like  it  the 
supply  is  perpetual.  Every  excavatiou-  fills  with  a  fresh  deposit  in  a  few  days. 
It  is  also  solid,  and  has  a  pinky  tint  when  taken  out  of  the  i)its,  but  soon  crum- 
bles and  whitens.     California  imports  from  3,000  to  5,000  tons  per  annum. 

The  Price  op  Salt  has  greatly  declined  since  the  establishment  of  the  works 
in  Alameda  county.  The  i)resent  prices  are  :  Liverpool,  stored,  825  to  $27  per 
ton  ;  Carmen  island,  $12  to  $16  per  tim ;  Bay,  $8  to  813  per  ton.  These  prices 
are  an  advance  of  20  per  cent,  on  Carmen  island  and  Bay  during  1866,  the 
falling  oif  in  importations  and  increase  in  the  demand  having  enhanced  the  value. 

AsrnALTUM. — This  mineral  is  abundant  in  California,  but  has  not  been  found 
in  any  of  the  other  States  or  Territories  on  the  Pacific  coast.  Though  generally 
admitted  to  be  of  the  same  nature  and  of  the  same  origin  as  petroleum,  and 
usually  found  in  combination  with  that  substance,  it  is  diSerent  in  appearance, 
and  is  applied  t(.)  different  pm-})oses.  As  one  of  the  mineral  products  of  the  coast, 
it  is  classed  under  a  separate  heading. 

The  principal  deposits  of  asphaltum  are  found  hi  Santa  Barbara  county.  It 
is  seen  along  the  coast  from  the  Kayamos  river,  the  line  of  San  Luis  Obispo 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  257 

county,  to  tlie  bounclavy  line  of  Los  Angeles.  In  this  distance  it  assumes  a 
variety  of  forms — hard  as  roek,  soft  as  putty,  oozing  from  the  cliffs  in  lazy  streams 
like  molten  pitch,  or  flowing  clear  and  licpiid  like  oil.  There  arc  reasons  for 
lielieving  that  a  deposit  underlies  the  country  embraced  within  bounds  above 
given,  and  extending  from  Buena  Vista  lake  to  the  sea.  A  spring  of  it  bubbles 
up  in  the  ocean  several  miles  from  the  shore,  opposite  the  northern  end  of  the 
island  of  Santa  Cruz. 

'  Near  Cari)eutana  solid  blocks  of  it  lie  piled  up  on  the  sea  beach,  while  near 
the  Dos  Pueblos  ranch  it  is  found  as  glassy  and  brittle  as  rosin.  Near  the  mis- 
sion of  San  Buenaventura  the  earth  for  man}'  acres  is  covered  with  it  in  various 
stages  of  hardness.  Deposits  of  a  shnilar  character  arc  seen  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  Santa  Inez  liver,  and  in  the  valley  of  the  Kayamos,  to  the  eastward,  and 
near  Buena  Vista  lake,  to  the  south. 

The  most  accessible  deposit  is  on  the  Gsftleta  ranch,  about  nine  miles  from 
Santa  Barbara.  The  residents  of  this  part  of  the  coast  have  supplied  themselves 
with  materials  for  roofing  their  houses  and  paving  their  streets  from  this  deposit 
for  the  past  50  years,  and  quantities  are  annually  sent  to  San  Francisco  for  the 
same  and  other  purposes. 

It  is  estimated  that  the  asphaltum  here  covers  300  acres,  and  extends  some 
distance  under  the  sea.  Masses  of  it  arc  seen  enclosed  in  the  rocks  which  form 
the  cliffs  along  that  portion  of  the  coast.  In  some  places  it  is  quarried  and  car- 
ried in  boats  to  vessels  ancliored  at  a  convenient  distance.  At  others  it  is  gath- 
ered up  along  the  beach,  when  it  is  loaded,  in  the  following  manner :  The  vessel 
waiting  for  a  cargo  is  anchored  some  300  feet  from  the  shore.  A  hawser  is  fast- 
ened to  the  land ;  on  this  a  large  block  is  riven,  by  means  of  wdiich  a  liat-bottomed 
boat  is  hauled  to  within  fifty  feet  of  the  shore,  just  far  enough  to  keep  it  out  of 
the  surf  wliich  breaks  continuously  on  the  open  coast.  The  party  on  shore, 
having  collected  two  or  three  tons,  pile  it  on  a  cart  with  a  single  pair  of  high 
wheels,  when  three  or  four  yoke  of  oxen,  trained  for  the  purpose,  haul  it  through 
the  surf  to  the  boat,  into  which  it  is  shifted.  It  sometimes  happens  that  the 
cattle  employed  in  this  l)usiness  are  completely  submerged  by  the  rolling  bil- 
lows, but  they  appear  used  to  i^  and  stand  patiently  up  to  their  ears  in  the  salt 
water.  The  boat,  when  loaded,  is  drawn  to  the  vessel  by  means  of  the  block 
on  the  hawser.  This  is  a  crude  Avay  of  peifonning  such  work,  and  will  soon  be 
abandoned,  as  increase  of  business  has  induced  some  parties  to  construct  a  wharf 
of  suflicicnt  length  to  enable  vessels  to  come  alongside  to  load. 

There  are  deposits  of  hard  asphaltum  at  points  between  the  rivers  Gaviota  and 
Buenaventura,  a  mile  or  two  from  the  sea  beach ;  also  on  the  ranches  of  Laguna, 
Todos  Santos,  Los  Alamos,  and  others,  ranging  from  30  to  50  miles  from  the 
sea ;  but  none  of  these  are  used  as  a  source  of  supply  at  present. 

The  Pacific  Asphaltum  Company  have  a  quarry  of  this  mineral  six  miles  fi-om 
Los  Angeles,  from  which  shipments  are  made  to  San  Francisco.  The  asphaltum 
is  hard  and  Tjlack,  requiring  to  Ijc  blasted  with  powder  to  break  out  suflicient  to 
supply  the  demand.  In  July,  1SG7,  it  presented  a  face  30  feet  in  depth  by  75 
feet  in  length,  very  compact  and  of  good  quality. 

Pre\'ious  to  1867 -most  of  the  asphaltum  used  at  San  Francisco  was  brought 
from  Santa  Barbara  county,  the  rest  from  Los  Angeles.     Itecently  considerable 
quantities  have  been  received  from  San  Buenaventura.     The  latter  article  sells ' 
at  S17  per  ton  when  that  from  other  places  is  ofiering  at  $15  per  ton. 

About  2,000  tons  are  annually  used  in  San  Francisco  for  making  sidewalks 
and  roofs  of  buildings,  purposes  for  which  it  is  well  adapted  when  properly  pre- 
pared. There  are  a  dozen  firms  in  San  Francisco  engaged  in  this  business.  It 
affords  employment  to  about  120  men.  It  was  introduced  as  a  material  for  pave- 
ment in  San  Francisco  in  1855.  At  the  present  time  the  principal  thorough- 
fares have  the  sidewalks  laid  with  it.  Some  of  it,  after  a  trial  of  10  years, 
exposed  to  a  variable  climate,  is  still  hard  and  smooth.  It  is  also  used  lor  other 
17 


258  RESOURCES    OF   STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

purposes,  and  its  consuniption  is  increasing.  The  Spring  Valley  Water  Com- 
pany use  it  for  coating  their  pipes,  lining  theii"  reservoirs,  &c.,  for  which  it  is 
better  adapted  than  cement  or  paint. 

Many  of  the  springs  on  this  coast  deposit  asphaltum ;  others  exude  petroleum. 
None  of  the  petroleum  springs  or  lagoons  north  of  Cape  Mendocino  produce 
asphaltum.  Some  of  the  springs  in  Santa  Barbara  and  other  southem  counties 
do  not  deposit  asphaltum,  thougli  in  the  midst  of  those  that  do.  The  petroleum 
spring  on  the  Canada  Larga  is  an  ilhistration  of  this  latter  class. 

The  deposits  of  asphaltum  in  California  are  sufficient  to  supply  a  very  large 
demand.  The  present  price  (August,  1SG7)  for  asphaltum  delivered  at  San 
Francisco  is  from  $15  to  $20  per  ton.  At  the  quanies  and  along  the  coast  it 
may  be  had  from  $3  to  $5  per  ton. 

During  the  summer  of  1867  quanies  of  asphaltum  were  opened  near  Alviso, 
10  miles  north  of  San  Jose  and  three  miles  from  Santa  Clara,  in  Santa  Clara 
county.  Both  of  these  points  are  convenient  to  the  line  of  the  San  Francisco 
and  San  Jose  railroad. 

Petroleum. — Diflerences  of  opinion  between  scientific  authorities  respecting 
the  mode  of  occurrence,  quality,  and  quantity  of  petroleum  in  California  have 
impaired  public  confidence  in  this  resource.  Many  persons  have  invested  time 
and  money  in  searching  for  "oil"  in  localities  where  it  does  not  exist,  because 
experts  said  it  would  be  found  there ;  while  others  have  permitted  good  petro- 
leum to  run  to  waste  because  experts  said  it  would  not  yield  oil.  It  is  not 
intended  hero  to  take  sides  with  either  the  "oil"  or  "no  oil"  party.  The  dis- 
cussion and  its  results  are  only  refeiTcd  to  in  order  to  show  why  this  product  has 
not  been  more  extensively  developed. 

Mr.  Gregory  Yale,  in  his  valuable  work  on  Titles  to  Mining  Claims  in  Cali- 
fornia, says: 

According  to  the  results  arrived  at  by  the  State  g-eological  survey,  there  are  two  questions 
settled  in  resjard  to  bituminous  oils  :  lirst,  that  with  the  facilities  and  conditions  which  now 
exist,  asphaltum  cannot  be  profitably  used  for  the  manufacture  of  burning  or  lubricating  oil ; 
and,  secondly,  that  no  fluid  oil  exists  on  the  surl'ace  in  sufficient  quantity  to  pay  for  collect- 
ing in  a  large  way. 

Professor  Wliitney  says  the  question  resolves  itself  into  this : 

"  It  is  probable  that  flowing  wells  will  be  struck  by  boring,  as  in  the  oil  regions  of  Pennsyl- 
vania, and  that  these  will  deliver  a  liquid  oil  or  petroleum  in  sufficient  quantities  to  take  up 
the  business  and  carry  it  on  in  a  large  way.  Tbe  question,  then,  whether  the  geological 
structure  and  conditions  in  the  Coast  ranges  south  of  San  Francisco  bay  are  such  as  to  jus- 
tify a  large  expenditure  of  money,  in  the  expectation  of  striking  copiously-flowing  wells  by 
boring  to  a  considerable  depth,  is  discussed  and  answered  in  the  negative  upon  the  following 
geological  facts : 

"The  great  bituminous  slate  formation,  of  tertiary  age,  extends  through  California  from 
Los  Angeles  as  far  north  as  Capo  Mendocino.  No  doubt  it  contains  bituminous  matter 
enough  to  supply  the  world  for  au  indefinite  period,  could  this  be  made  available  without 
expense.  But  it  will  bo  oljserved  that  the  strata  of  this  formation,  all  through  the  region 
north  of  the  bay  of  San  Francisco,  are  turned  up  at  a  high  angle  in  this  respect,  occupying 
a  very  ditl'ereut  position  from  the  oil-producing  beds  in  ti;e  eastern  States.  There  the  strata 
in  which  the  petiolcum  is  found  in  abundance,  and  in  which  all  the  wells  which  yield  any 
considerable  (quantity  of  this  material  are  sunk,  are  horizontal  or  inclined  at  a  very  moderate 
angle.  Nowhere  is  oil  obtained  in  largo  quantity  where  the  stratum  in  which  it  originates  is 
exposed  to  the  air  by  being  turned  up  on  edge,  or  is  only  covered  by  light  and  porous  accu- 
mulations of  detritus.  The  reason  of  this  is  very  evident :  the  oil  is  slowly  elaborated  or 
brought  together  in  a  certain  bed  or  set  of  beds,  and  imlcss  confined  in  some  way  so  that  it 
cannot  escape,  it  must  be  forced  to  the  surface  by  capillary  attraction,  hydrostatic  pressure, 
or  that  of  gas  generated  at  the  same  time,  when  it  escapes  and  is  lost ;  to  allow  it  to  accumu- 
late, there  unist  bo  an  impervious  covering  of  rock  over  the  oil  stratum  proper,  which  will 
confine  the  fluid  material  within  limits,  and  allow  it  to  accumulate  away  from  the  influence 
of  the  air.  For  this  reason  a  large  flow  of  oil  on  the  surface  cannot  be  considered  as  a  favor- 
able indication  for  boring  wells,  and  much  less  can  heavy  accumulations  of  asphaltum  be  so 
regarded.  If,  then,  flowing  wells  are  struck  in  California,  it  is  more  likely  to  be  in  those 
portions  of  the  region  north  of  the  bay  of  San  Francisco  where  the  bitHmiuous  slates  are  less 
disturbed  and  not  set  upon  edge,  and  where  they  may  perhaps  be  covered  by  formations  of 
later  age,  which  will  act  as  covers  and  receptacles  for  the  elaborated  oil.    In  the  Coast  ranges 


WEST   OF   THE    EOCKY   MOUNTALXS.  259 

south  of  the  hny  of  Monterey,  as  the  bitiiminons  shalos  are  evcrywhorc  turned  up  on  edge 
nnd  have  no  cover  of  impervions  rock,  tlie  inference  is  nnavoidahlii  that  flowiiif^  wells,  or  at 
least  those  delivering  any  coTisiderahlc  quantity  of  liquid  petroleum,  cannot  be  expected  to 
bo  jTOt  by  borin<j  to  anj'  depth  ;  the  probabilities,  at  least,  are  decidedly  against  it.  While, 
therefore,  we  would  not  object  to  a  reasonable  and  ijrndi'ut  expenditure  of  small  amounts  to 
test  the  question  whether  fluid  oil  can  be  obtained  in  California  in  sufiicient  quantity  to  pay 
a  nu>ilerate  protit  on  a  bona  fide  investment,  we  would  caution  all  against  paying  to  specu- 
lators an  immense  premium  for  the  privilege  of  making  these  experiments  on  lands  which 
they  have  secured  for  a  small  sum,  and  where  there  are  no  better,  if  as  good,  chances  of  suc- 
cess as  on  many  other  tracts  which  have  not  yet  fallen  into  the  hands  of  these  monster  stock 
companies. 

' '  Whether  the  asphaltum  of  California  is  derived  from  thickening  or  oxidation,  by  exposure 
to  the  atmosphere  of  exactly  the  same  substance,  chemically  speaking,  as  that  which  is  called 
petroleum  in  Pennsylvania,  is  a  matter  of  chemical  investigation.  In  the  light  of  the  facts 
and  considerations  just  presented  it  does  not  appear  to  be  economically  important  that  it 
should  bo  settled  at  once.  How  large  a  portion  of  tho  numerous  hydrocarbons  which 
are  originall}'  contained  in  the  bituminous  slates  of  California  evaporate  on  exposure,  and 
how  many  of  them  become  oxidized  into  asphaltum,  is  a  delicate  subject  for  investigation. 
From  the  well-known  fact  that  there  are  few,  if  any,  deposits  of  asphaltum  or  asphaltic  mate- 
rial existing  on  the  surface  in  the  oil  region  of  Pennsylvania,  although  the  oil  itself  appears 
to  have  been  escaping  at  numerous  points  for  an  indefinite  period  of  time,  it  appears  to  be 
probable,  at  least,  that  the  original  chemical  constitution  of  the  mass  of  bituminous  matter 
in  the  oil-bearing  shales  of  pakeozoic  age  is  different  from  that  material  which  occurs  in  the 
tertiary  rocks  of  California,  and  of  which  at  least  much  the  largest  part  does,  on  exposure, 
become  consolidated  into  a  hard  and  brittle  material,  which  certainly  no  longer  contains 
more  than  a  very  small  percentage  of  light  oil." 

These  conclusions  have  met  with  some  opposition,  which  seems  to  resolve  itself  into  a 
question  of  fact  as  to  the  existence  of  petroleum  in  small  quantities,  which  is  not  denied, 
and  does  not  lefute  the  conclusion  that  it  is  useless  to  pursue  an  enterprise  which  will  not 
prove  pecuniarily  profitable. 

That  petroleum  exists  in  California  is  no  longer  a  matter  of  donbt.  It  has 
been  obtained  at  various  places  from  Los  Angeles  to  Humboldt,  and  merchanta- 
ble oil  has  been  made  from  several  localities  within  this  range,  including  San 
]\Iateo,  Santa  Clara,  Santa  Barbara,  San  Bernardino,  Colusa,  Lake,  Napa,  Tulare, 
Humboldt,  Kern,  and  several  other  counties.  The  quantity  available  will  prob- 
ably be  sufiicient  to  supply  the  demand  of  the  coast.  The  quality  undoubtedly 
dilfers  from  that  prepared  in  the  Atlantic  States;  also  the  means  for  obtaining 
the  crude  material.  Experiments  made  a\  itli  oil  from  dificrcnt  soui'ces  show  that 
it  differs  in  composition  from  the  eastern  oils  in  containing  a  larger  per  centum  of 
carbon.  It  burns  with  less  brilliancy  in  ordinary  lamps.  With  lamps  so  arranged 
as  to  give  an  increased  suirply  of  oxygen  by  creating  a  larger  current  of  air 
through  the  chimnej^,  it  produces  as  bright  and  white  a  light  as  the  oils  from 
Pennsylvania,  Virginia,  or  Canada. 

The  excess  of  carbon  increases  the  value  of  petroleum  for  fuel,  a  use  for  which  it 
is  now  attracting  attention.  In  a  country  where  fuel  is  dear  an  abundant  supply 
of  petroleum  of  this  character  becomes  an  important  resource. 

The  Compositiox  of  California  Coal  Oil. — In  1804,  20  gallons  of  crude 
oil  from  tho  Buena  Vista  springs,  in  Tidare  county,  were  sent  to  Mr.  C  Hum- 
phrey, of  the  Chemical  College,  London,  to  bo  analyzed.  In  his  report  Mr. 
Humphrey  stated  that  it  contained  a  small  per  cent,  of  illuminating  and  SO  per 
cent,  of  lubricating  oil.  ''  If  the  materials  sent,"  adds  the  report,  "  were  in  their 
natural  state,  (which  they  were,)  they  are  a  most  extraordinary  product,  and 
.  unlike  anything  that  has  been  found  in  the  United  States  or  in  Europe." 

One  hundred  pounds  of  crude  material  analyzed  by  ]\Ir.  Bcnoist,  a  French 
chemist,  gave  the  following  returns: 

Material  of  the  density  of  72°  Baum6,  or  naphtha ^i 

Material  of  the  density  of  G5°  Baum6,  or  benzine ^i 

Material  of  the  density  of  44°  Baum^,  or  illuminating  oil 37.5 

Material  of  the  density  of  lO'^  Baum6,  or  lubricating  oil •^''i 

Asphaltum 1'^ 

100 


260  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AXD   TERRITORIES 

In  1866  tlie  crude  materials  obtained  from  tlic  Buena  Vista  springs  yielded  50 
per  cent,  lubricating  and  40  per  cent,  illuminating  oil.  When  obtained  from 
the  pits  it  was  of  the  specific  density  of  20°  to  25°  Baume. 

A  remarkable  difference  exists  in  the  density  of  this  material  when  obtained 
at  difi'erent  depths  from  the  surface.  On  the  surface  it  averages  18°;  at  20  feet 
below,  22°;  at  30  feet,  26°.  The  residuum  in  the  stills  after  extracting  the  oil 
furnished  fuel  for  future  operations. 

A  sample  of  30  ounces  of  crude  oil  from  Mattole  valley,  Humboldt  county, 
analyzed  by  Professor  Eowlandson,  a  member  of  the  English  Royal  Geograph- 
ical Society,  gave  the  following  result : 

Ounces. 

Illuminating  oil 23 

Lubricating  oil 4. 25 

Residuum ~ 2.75 


30 


Upwards  of  90  per  cent,  of  merchantable  materials. 

There  is  a  marked  difference  in  the  composition  of  the  petroleum  found  in  the 
northern  and  southern  portions  of  California.  Under  the  head  of  asphaltum  it 
has  been  mentioned  that  the  northern  petroleum  deposits  no  asphaltum,  while 
the  latter  mineral  is  abundant  in  the  southern  counties.  So  also  under  the  head 
of  coal,  the  difference  in  the  quality  of  that  mineral  in  the  north  and  south  is 
refen'ed  to.  Without  entering  into  speculations  as  to  the  cause,  the  subject  is 
of  some  interest  to  science.  It  is  generally  conceded  that  there  is  an  affinity 
between  coal  and  petroleum. 

All  the  crude  petroleum  found  in  the  coast  range  south  of  San  Francisco  is 
nearly  identical  in  composition,  though  varying  from  16°  to  30°  Baume,  and 
nearly  all  of  it  deposits  asphaltum.  i 

That  found  north  of  the  Golden  Gate  is  generally  of  a  higher  specific  gravity  j 
and  deposits  little  or  no  asphaltum. 

There  is  no  paraffine  in  most  of  the  southern  oil,  while  that  from  the  north  is 
prolific  in  this  substance.  The  oil  from  the  south  contains  a  per  centum  of  nitro- 
genous matter  which  is  unusual  in  hydrocarbons.  Some  of  it,  when  kept  in 
open  vessels  in  a  warm  room  for  a  few  weeks,  generates  a  peculiar  kind  pi  worm, 
which  would  be  remarkable  if  this  oil  be  of  a  purely  mineral  character,  as  stated 
by  the  French  chemist  Berthelot.  » 

Professor  Silliman,  in  an  article  on  this  subject,  read  before  the  California 
Academy  of  Natural  Sciences,  in  April  1867,  stated  the  following  interesting 
particulars  on  the  subject : 

That  he  had  made  the  experiments  with  a  sample  of  sinf\xce  oil  obtained  in  Santa  Barbara 
county,  consisting  of  jjarcels  from  5  to  10  gallons  each,  of  dark,  almost  black  material,  which 
at  ordinary  temperatures  resembled  coal  tar.  Its  d(>nsity  at  60^  Fahrenheit  was  13i  Baumd, 
retaining  a  considerable  quantity  of  water  mechanically  entangled,  M^ithout  any  odor  of  sul- 
phohydric  acid,  usually  very  decided  m  such  surface  oils.     Distilled  to  dryness,  it  produced: 

Oil  havingadensity  of  0.890  to  0.900 G9.82 

Coke,  water,  and  loss 30. 13 

100.00 

'  In  one  trial,  the  product  was  divided  as  follows  : 

Oi5  of  density  of  29°  Baum6,  at  52° 50.00 

Oil  of  a  density  of  24  Baume,  at5S*^ 17.05 

Coke,  water,  and  loss 32.05 

100.  oo' 


The  coke  was  large  in  quantity,  strong,  and  would  make  good  fuel,  resembling  gas-house 
coke.    The  odor  of  ammonia  was  strong  towards  the  close  of  distillation. 


WEST    OF   THE   ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  2G1 

Tho  illumiiiiitinc:  oils  obtninotl  by  these  experiments,  after  trcataicnt  with  sulphuric  acid 
and  soda  in  tho  usual  niauner,  ni-qniri'd  an  agreeable  odor,  a  light  straw  color,  and  burned  u.s 
well  in  a  lainp  as  good  coniniert-ial  oil. 

No  paralHne  could  bo  detected  b}'  refrigerating  the  heavy  oils  in  a  mixture  of  salt  and  ice. 
It  is,  no  doubt,  the  absence  of  this  bod}'  from  tlie  series  of  ])roducts  obtained  from  the  Cali- 
foniia  oils  generally,  that  accounts  for  the  illuminating  oil  burning  well  at  a  density  consid- 
erably below  tho  commercial  standard  for  oil  obtained  from  Pounsylviinia  petroleum — a  dif- 
ference enhanced  also  by  the  absence  of  any  considerable  quantity  of  light  naphtha.  Iho 
lubricating  oils  of  this  series,  likewise  free  from  paraffinc,  retain  on  this  account  their  flu- 
idity at  low  temperatures. 

Tiie  liglit  oils  obtained  in  the-so  cxjiorimewts  corresponded  respectively  to  12. 9G,  14.  56,  and 
IS.  90  per  centum  of  the  crude  oil.  Tho  total  eonnnercial  products  were  about  (iO  per  cent. 
of  the  cnule  body,  which  likewise  yielded  sufficient  coke  to  supply  the  fuel  required  in  the 
distillations. 

The  excess  of  carbon  in  the  heavier  hydro-carbons  of  California  suggests  the  probability 
of  their  having  a  value  in  their  crude  state  as  fuel.  For  this  purpose  they  may  be  employed 
to  give  cohesion  to  coke,  or  line  coal,  or  any  other  cheap  form  of  carbon,  as  has  already  been 
done  with  coal  tar  in  I'^ugland. 

The  Maxufactuiie  of  Coal  Oil  ijt  Califoknia. — Small  qviantities  of 
coal  oil  liave  been  made  in  this  Stato  for  many  years.  The  materials  in  some 
localities  require  but  little  preparation  for  illuminathig  purposes.  Between  18G5 
and  1SG7,  Ilayward  &  Coleman,  a  firm  in  tlie  oil  business  in  San  Francisco, 
made  40,000  gallons  of  illuminating  oil  from  springs  of  petroleum  near  Santa 
Barbara;  but  suspended  operations  in  June,  1867,  because  imported  oil  was  sell- 
ing at  54  to  55  cents  per  gallon,  a  price  so  low  as  to  render  the  manufacture 
unprofitable,  owing  to  the  high  price  of  cases  to  contain  it,  transportation,  and 
labor. 

These  gentlemen  have  expended  capital  and  labor  in  efforts  to  render  valuable 
the  California  petroleum.  After  many  experiments  to  test  its  adaptability  for 
fuel,  they  state  that,  although  it  costs  $5  per  Ijarrcl  to  bring  it  from  the  springs 
to  San  Francisco,  it  is  cheaper  as  fuel  than  coal  or  wood.  It  saves  expense  of 
hauling  and  splitting,  and  of  Ibeding  the  furnace ;  it  makes  no  ashes  to  be  carted 
away ;  causes  no  waste  in  lighting  or  extinguishing  the  fire  ;  while  with  wood  or 
coal  there  is  waste  of  time  and  material  in  these  operations.  The  heat  is  under 
control,  and  may  bo  easily  regulated.  Tho  operations  of  this  firm  have  been 
carried  on  for  a  year,  with  petroleum  as  fuel,  for  distillation  and  driving  their 
engines,  thus  cstablisliing  the  practicability  of  its  use. 

A  number  of  establishments  in  the  southern  counties  also  use  it  for  nmning 
machinery.  A  gentleman  interested  in  the  oil  business  has  recently  perfected  an 
apparatus  for  bm-ning  it  for  domestic  purposes.  He  has  made  application  for  a 
patent.  This  invention  it  is  said  ])erforms  the  duty  satisfactorily,  bm'ning  the 
crude  material  without  smoke  or  oflensive  odor. 

Stanford  Brothers  have  also  expended  capital  and  labor  in  efforts  to  manufac- 
ture oil  from  California  petroleum,  and  have  succeeded  so  far  as  to  make  oil ;  but 
not  with  profit.  Up  to  July,  18G7,  this  firm  had  made  100,000  gallons  of  illu- 
minating oil,  and  a  nearly  equal  quantity  of  lubricating,  and  have  been  making 
about  20,000  gallons  of  illuminating  per  month,  since.  Their  works  are  still  in 
operation. 

For  reasons  stated,  much  of  this  oil  is  prepared  to  a  standard  density  of  35° 
Baume,  which  causes  it  to  burn  betl^er,  and  exenqjts  it  from  the  tax  of  20  cents 
per  gallon  levied  on  coal  oils  of  36°. 

Tins  finn  ])urchasc  the  crude  oils  from  several  localities,  but  obtain  their  chief 
supply  from  tunnels  and  pits  near  San  Buenaventura.  The  high  cost  of  vessels 
to  contain  the  oil  when  made ;  of  transportation  and  interest  on  capital,  and  tho 
low  pi-ices  ruling  for  the  imported  article,  are  impediments  to  the  successful  devel- 
opment of  this  resource. 

It  costs  six  cents  per  gallon  for  second-hand  cans.  New  cans  would  cost  15 
cents  per  gallon.     Each  40-gallon  barrel  of  crude  material  costs  $3,  or  7^  cents 


262  EESOuncES  of  states  and  territories 

per  gallon  for  transportation  from  the  springs  to  tlie  refining-  works.  As  the  cnide 
petroleum  only  averages  45  per  cent,  of  markctaLlc  oil,  each  gallon  of  such  oil 
costs  21  cents  without  the  expense  of  refining,  or  the  20  cents  for  tax,  or  any 
allowance  for  commissions,  loss,  interest  on  capital,  or  othpr  incidental  expenses. 
For  these  reasons  the  interest  is  in  a  depressed  condition.  It  is  unprofitable  to 
make  oil  when  the  imported  article  is  less  than  GO  cents  per  gallon. 

The  material  nsed  hy  Stanford  Brothers,  in  addition  to  the  illuminating  oil, 
produces  about  25  per  cent,  of  lubricating  oil,  which  if  it  could  be  sold  at  25  cents 
per  gallon  would  make  the  other  branch  of  the  business  profitable.  13ut  there 
is  no  market  for  it,  owing  to  a  prejudice  against  its  use.  The  consumption  of 
lubricating  oil  in  California  amounts  to  500,000  gallons  annually,  including  castor 
and  China  nut  oils.  That  of  illuminating  oils  reaches  900,000  gallons  annually. 
Of  course  this  creates  an  important  trade  for  importers. 

The  Bueua  Vista  Company  made  about  4,000  gallonsof  illummating  oil  at  their 
works  near  the  springs,  and  other  companies  made  more  or  less.  Kearly  a  dozen 
companies  had  stills  in  operation  for  a  short  time.  Mr.  Stott  has  made  about  5,000 
gallons  at  San  Francisco.  Mr.  "Williams,  of  the  same  place,  has  also  made  about 
the  same  quantity.  Altogether  it  is  safe  to  estimate  the  quantity  of  California 
made  coal  oil  at  175,000  gallons.  The  capacity  of  the  stills  for  maldng  it  is 
sufiicient  to  turn  out  100,000  gallons  per  month. 

The  idea  that  the  manufacture  of  California  petroleum  ma}-  yet  be  made  pro- 
fitalde  is  not  al)andoned.  A  compam'  was  organized  at  San  Francisco  as  recently 
as  Septemljer,  1867,  with  a  capital  of  81,250,000,  for  the  purpose  of  working 
petroleum  and  asphaltum  deposits. 

The  Mode  of  Occurkexce. — The  oils  of  California  do  not  "  occm-"  in  the 
same  manner  as  those  found  in  the  Atlantic  States.  Ilere  there  are  no  flowing 
wells,  nor  is  it  probable  an}^  will  be  found.  Some  of  the  wells  sunk  in  the  Mat- 
tole  valley,  Humboldt  county,  reached  the  depth  of  1,166  feet  without  obtaining 
a  flow,  though  sunk  in  a  district  oveiilowing  with  oil  on  the  surface.  Other 
\vells  of  nearly  equal  depth  have  been  sunk  in  other  counties,  through  various 
fonnations,  with  similar  results. 

Without  entering  into  speculations  as  to  the  cause  of  the  abundance  of  oil 
on  the  suiface,  and  its  deficiency  below,  it  is  enough  to  know  that  oil  exists  in 
sufficient  quantity.  There  are  many  natural  wells  or  springs  of  it  in  the  Coast 
range,  some  fomiing  pools  of  oil ;  others  showing  but  little  more  than  "  indica- 
tions" of  that  material.  From  some  of  these  springs  petroleum  flows  in  a  black, 
viscid  stream,  like  tar ;  frcim  others,  clear,  colorless,  and  comparatively  pure.  In 
exceptional  instances  it  has  been  used  without  preparation  in  common  coal  oil 
lamps.  At  son>e  places  the  springs  are  widely  separated  ;  at  others,  scores  of 
them  are  founil  within  the  space  of  an  acre.  Generally  the  single  springs  ])ro- 
duce  the  most  petroleum.  About  some  are  large  deposits  of  asphaltum,  while 
none  of  this  mineral  is  seen  within  miles  of  others,  though  the  oil  has  been  flow- 
ing for  centuries,  and  its  course  can  be  traced  for  miles  along  the  suriVice. 

Where  a  record  has  been  kept  the  flow  of  petroleum  has  been  larger  dmnng 
the  night  than  the  day,  and  more  abundant  in  winter  than  summer.  Usually 
where  petroleum  is  found  there  are  salt  springs  and  alkaline  \^•aters. 

Reference  to  the  oil  vrells  of  San  Feniando  district,  Los  Angeles  county,  will 
convey  a  general  idea  of  the  oil  fonnation  in  the  Coast  range. 

This  district  is  situated  30  miles  northwest  from  Los  Angeles.  The  fonna- 
tion lies  in  a  range  of  mountains  extending  in  a  course  nearly  east  and  west. 
The  central  stratum  is  shale,  which  seems  to  contain  the  most  oil,  and  inclines 
north  and  south  at  an  acute  angle,  the  top  being  from  150  to  200  feet  wide,  slightly 
depressed,  .and  covered  by  a  stratum  of  sandstone  of  variable  thickness.  This 
shale  is  bounded  by  a  similar  sandstone,  alternating  with  thin  seams  of  limestone 
and  hiuxl  conHomerate.     At  the  base  of  the  mountains  the  formation  is  hard 


WEST  OP  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  2G3 

Baiul  and  limestone,  both  coutainini^  marine  fossils  of  a  recent  era.  These  moun- 
tains reach  a  hei_u-ht  of  about  700  ieet  above  the  local  river  beds,  and  about  4,000 
or  5,000  feet  above  the  sea  level. 

The  oil  stratum  varies  in  ^vidth,  being  in  some  places  a  mile  or  more,  as  in 
Rice  canon,  in  others  only  a  few  hundred  feet ;  but  is  continuous  fw*  many  miles. 
In  the  gulches  and  caHons,  where  the  water  has  eroded  the  foraiation  and  exposed 
the  shale  to  the  action  of  the  atmosphere,  the  oil  is  found  oozing  out.  The  water 
in  the  district  is  unfit  for  use.  Oil  is  also  found  on  the  summit  of  the  mountains, 
which  are  crested  with  shale,  being  carried  through  the  shale  by  capillary  attrac- 
tion. At  some  ])laces  beds  of  "  brea,"  or  as]ihaltum,  have  accunudated,  where  the 
oil  has  evaporated.  Tlie  rocks,  forming  l)eds  of  streams  which  dry  up  during  the 
summer,  are  covered  with  a  comidex  alkaline  elllorescence. 

The  manner  of  collecting  the  oil  in  this  district  is  by  sinking  i)it8  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  natural  springs,  in  which  oil  and  water  collect.  The  oil  is  skinnned  off 
by  hand,  each  pit  of  20  b}'  20  yielding  about  two  barrels  per  day.  When  col- 
lected it  is  dark  green  in  color,  and  about  as  thick  as  sirup  in  sunnner,  and  con- 
tains about  SO  per  cent,  of  oily  matter,  mechanically  combined  with  20  per  cent. 
of  water,  from  which  it  is  diflicult  to  separate  it. 

In  other  places  tunnels  are  ran  into  the  mountain.  The  oil  di'ips  from  the 
slate  when  it  is  cut  through. 

The  Bucna  Yista  oil  claim  is  located  on  a  belt  of  bituminous  shale  from  two 
to  three  miles  wide,  and  from  30  to  40  miles  long,  running  parallel  with  the  Coast 
range,  near  Buena  Vista  lake,  Tulare  county.  From  this  formation  petroleum 
exudes  at  a  number  of  places. 

The  oil  obtained  was  the  seepage  of  one  of  these  springs  collected  in  pits  dug 
for  the  purpose.  These  pits  are  generally  20  feet  deep,  live  feet  wide  by  eight 
feet  long,  each  producing  about  300  gallons  of  crude  materials  in  24  hours,  con- 
taining 40  per  cent,  of  light,  and  50  per  cent,  of  lubricating,  or  heavy  oiL  The 
claim  was  worked  from  February,  18G4,  till  April,  1867,  when,  owing  to  the  low 
price  of  oil,  it  was  found  improfitable  to  prepare  it  for  the  San  Francisco  market, 
and  the  local  demand  was  fully  su])plied. 

A  notable  difference  exists  in  the  density  of  the  oil  from  this  place  when  obtained 
at  but  slightlv  different  depths  from  the  surface,  ranging  from  IS*^  Baume  to  22° 
at  20  feet,  22°  and  26°  at  30  feet. 

Similar  smface  deposits  are  met  with  in  nearly  all  the  valleys  of  the  Coast  range. 
It  will  be  seen  from  this  imperfect  sketch,  that  although  not  occurang  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  earth  oils  of  other  countries,  the  California  oils  are  never- 
theless valuable  for  illuminating  pmiDoses.  The  cost  of  production  is  the  mate- 
rial point  which  must  govern  the  development  of  man^-  natural  resources  of  this 
State.  It  is  a  question  that  must  be  candidly  met.  So  far  as  petroleum  is  con- 
cerned, it  must  be  acknowledged  the  facts  are  against  us.  But  cheap  labor  and 
increased  facilities  for  transportation  will  naturally  follow  an  increase  (tf  j)opu]a- 
tion.  With  capital  and  labor  as  cheap  as  in  Kew  York  or  Em'ope,  California 
petroleum  would  be  a  somxe  of  wealth  to  the  country.  At  present  it  is  an  unpro- 
litable  resource. 

Quicksilver. — TnE  Xetv  Almadei^  Mixes  were  so  fully  described  in  the 
preliminary  report,  that  a  brief  reference  to  their  present  condition  will  be  sjulli- 
cient  here. 

The  production  of  quicksilver  in  these  mines  has  fallen  off  nearly  one-half 
during  the  jjresent  year  owing  to  various  causes,  the  chief  of  which  is,  tlie  limited 
demand  for  the  article  as  compared  with  former  years,  and  the  increased  produe- 
tion  from  other  sources.  A  large  quantity  has  accunuilated  iri  the  marketb  of  tho 
world,  estimated  by  some  as  high  as  100,000  flasks.  The  mines  of  Almaden,  in 
Spain,  have  fiiniislied  a  large  proportion  of  this  supply  j  and  the  production  has 
been  considerable  in  Austria  and  South  ximerica. 


264 


EESOUECKS    OF    STATES   AND    TEREITOEIES 


Tlie  product  of  the  Xcw  Almaclcn  mines  from  January  to  August,  1867,  inclu- 
sive, lias  been  as  follows  : 


Flasks. 

July 1,9:31 

August 1 2,000 


Making 17,063 


Flasks. 

January 2,270 

February 2,195 

Wardi 2,3:38 

April - 2.1G!) 

May 2,1(50 

June 2,000 

The  present  condition  of  the  principal  mine  is  poor,  Loth  in  the  quality  and 
quantity  of  its  ovesj  its  future  is  uncertain,  and  any  conjectures  in  regard  to  it 
would  be  valueless. 

The  N4;w  Idkia  Miis^e  yielded  during-  the  six  months  ending  June  30, 1867, 
as  follows : 


January.. 
February. 

March 

April 

May 


Flasks. 
690 
859 
915 
879 
829 


Jvine . 


Flasks. 
852 


Total 5,014 


The  Redikgto^"  Mine,  of  which  no  description  has  heretofore  been  given, 
(sometimes  called  the  XLCR,  as  named  by  the  original  locators,)  is  situated  at 
Knoxville,  Lake  county,  55  miles  northwest  of  Napa,  from  wdiich  point  the  pro- 
duct is  shipped.  It  was  located  in  March,  1861,  but  the  locators  having  neither 
the  necessary  skill  nor  capital,  leased  the  mine  for  a  term  of  years.  Work  was 
commenced  thereon  in  the  spring  of  1862,  and  energetically  prosecuted,  with 
various  vicissitudes  ever  since,  its  product  up  to  January,  1867,  aggregating  9,009 
flasks  of  76  J  pounds  each,  selling  for  a  total  of  $344,594. 

Up  to  January,  1867,  the  ore  was  reduced  in  retorts,  but  at  that  thne  there 
was  completed  a  large  and  expensive  furnace  and  condenser,  constructed  of  a 
stone  peculiar  to  the  region,  which  proves  itself  quite  the  equal  of  the  best  English 
fire-brick  in  its  capacity  to  resist  the  action  of  tire.  By  the  aid  of  this  improved 
means  of  reduction,  the  product  has  been  largely  increased,  aggregating  in  the 
nine  months  from  January,  1867,  to  October  1,  1867,  5,145  flasks  of- 76^  jjounds 
each.  A  second  furnJice  of  equal  capacity  with  that  now  used,  and  having  many 
improvements  never  before  introduced  in  the  construction  of  quicksilver  reducing 
furnaces,  has  just  been  completed,  and  the  product  is  hereafter  expected  not  to 
be  less  than  1,000  flasks  per  month.  The  mine  is  situated  in  a  hill,  and  is  worked 
by  a  tunnel  about  700  feet  long,  not  counting  the  numerous  side  drifts. 

'  Various  shafts  have  been  sunk  from  these  side  drifts,  and  trouble  being  expe- 
rienced from  water,  an  artesian  bore  of  seven  inches  diameter  was  sunk  on  the 
hillside  before  the  mouth  of  the  tunnel,  to  the  depth  of  250  feet.  In  this  was 
placed  a  pumj)  of  five  and  a  half  inches  diameter,  and  this,  though  generally 
looked  upon  at  first  as  a  very  doubtful  experiment,  is  found  efi'ectively  and  per- 
manently to  iree  the  whole  mine  from  water,  thus  saving  the  great  expense  of  a 
pumping  shaft. 

The  mine  employs  150  men,  has  built  and  maintains  20  miles  of  road,  and 
from  its  isolated  position  is  compelled  to  create  from  its  own  resources  all  the 
facilities  needful  for  carrying  it  on. 

BoKAX. — Tlie  production  of  refined  borax  by  the  Califoraia  Borax  Company 
for  eight  months,  beginning  January  5  and  ending  September  7,  1867,  was 
481,912  pounds.  The  present  product  averages  about  120  boxes  (112  pounds 
each)  per  week.  The  company  is  about  to  erect  a  machine  to  lixiviate  the  mud 
of  the  lake,  at  a  cost  of  S30,o5o. 

Mr.  J.  Arthm"  Phillips,  a  distinguished  mining  engineer  from  England,  made 


WEST  OF  THE  KOCKY  MOUNTAINS.  2G5 

a  careful  oxamination  of  the  company's  property  last  year.     The  following  is  an 
extract  from  liis  report  on  Borax  lake : 

The  borax  occurs  in  the  form  of  crystals  of  v.arions  (.limonsions,  imbcilded  in  the  mud  of 
the  bottom,  which  is  found  to  be  most  productive  to  a  depth  of  three  and  ti  half  feet,  althonprh 
a  bore-hole,  whicli  was  sunk  near  the  centre  to  u  depth  of  GU  feet,  is  said  to  have  aflbrded  a 
proportion  of  that  salt  throughout  its  whole  extent. 

The  crystals  thus  occurrino;  are  most  abundant  near  the  centre  of  the  lake,  and  extend 
over  an  area  equivalent  to  about  one-third  of  its  surface,  but  they  are  also  met  with,  in  smaller 
quantities,  in  the  muddy  deposit  of  the  other  portions  of  the  basin,  some  of  them  beinj^,  in 
tlic  richest  part  before  alluded  to,  over  a  pound  in  weij^ht,  The  larg-est  crystals  are  generally 
enclosed  in  a  stiti'  bine  clay,  at  a  depth  of  between  three  and  four  feet,  and  a  short  distance 
above  them  is  a  nearly  pure  stratum  of  smaller  ones,  some  two  and  one-half  and  three  inches 
in  thickness,  in  addition  to  which  crystals  of  various  sizes  are  disseminated  throughout  the 
muddy  deposit  of  v.-hieli  the  bottom  consists. 

Besides  the'borax  thus  existino-  iu  a  crystallized  form,  the  mud  itself  is  highly  charged  with 
that  salt,  and,  according  to  an  analysis  of  Professor  Oxland,  when  dried  affords,  in  the  por- 
tions of  the  lake  now  worked,  (including  the  enclosed  crystals,)  17.73  percent.  Another 
analysis  of  an  average  sample,  by  Mr.  Moore,  of  Sau  Francisco,  yielded  him  18.80  per  cent. 
of  cr^'stallized  borax. 

In  addition  to  this,  the  deposit  at  the  bottom  of  the  other  portions  of  the  basin,  although 
less  productive,  still  contains  a  large  amount  of  borax,  but  no  analyses  of  samples  appear  to 
have  been  made,  except  from  the  portions  of  the  bottom  at  present  worked.  It  has  further 
been  ascertained,  by  making  pits  on  the  lake  shore,  that  clay  containing  a  certain  proportion 
of  borax  exists  iu  the  low  ground,  at  a  considerable  distance  from  the  water's  edge. 

Extraction  of  Bouax. — The  borax  at  present  manufactured  is  exclusively  prepared 
from  the  native  crystals  of  crude  salt,  while  the  mud  iu  which  they  aie  found  is  returned  to 
the  lake  after  the  mechanical  separation  of  the  crystals  by  washing.  The  extr;;ction  of  the 
nnid  is  eSccted  by  the  aid  of  sheet-iron  coffer-dams  and  a  small  dredging  machine,  worked 
by  manual  power,  but  the  latter  has  been  very  recently  put  into  operation.  Until  within  a 
few  weeks  the  only  apparatus  employed  consisted  of  a  raft,  covered  by  a  shingled  roof  which 
ha-s  an  aperture  in  its  centre  about  15  feet  square,  and  above  which  are  hung,  by  suitable 
tackle,  four  iron  cotter-dams,  six  feet  by  six  feet,  and  nine  feet  in  depth.  This  raft  or  bargo 
is  moved  iu  parallel  lines  across  the  surface  of  the  lake,  and  at  each  statiou  the  four  dams  are 
sunk  simultaneously  by  their  own  weight  into  the  mud  forming  the  bottom.  When  they 
have  thus  become  well  imbedded  the  water  is  baled  out,  and  the  mud  removed  iu  buckets  to 
large  rectangular  washing  vats,  into  which  a  continuous  stream  of  water  is  introduced  from 
;he  lake  by  means  of  Chinese  pumps — the  contents  of  the  cisterns  being  at  the  same  time 
constantly  agitated  by  means  of  rakes.  In  this  way  the  turbid  water  continually  flows  off, 
and  a  certain  amount  of  borax  is  tiually  collected  iu  the  bottom  of  each  tank,  which  is  sub- 
sequently recrystallized ;  but  from  the  density  acquired  by  the  washmg  water,  of  which  no 
less  than  70,000  gallous  are  daily  employed,  it  is  evident  that  less  than  one-half  of  the  borax 
existing  in  the  form  of  crystals  is  thus  obtained,  while  that  which  is  present  iu  the  mud  itself 
is  again  returned  to  the  lake. 

The  dredging  machine  recently  introduced  is  a  decided  improvement  on  the  coffer-dams, 
and  may,  by  the  aid  of  some  trifling  modifications,  be  made  a  very  eflicient  machine;  but 
the  mud  brought  up  by  it  is  subjected  to  the  washing  process  before  described,  and  a  small 
proportion  only  of  the  borax  is  obtained  for  recrystallization. 

Crystallization'. — The  crystals  of  rude  borax  thus  daily  obtained  now  amount  to  about 
3,000  pounds,  and  after  being  carefully  washed  they  are  deposited  in  boiling  water  and  recrj-s- 
tallized  in  large  lead-lined  vessels,  from  which  the  purified  borax  is  removed  into  boxes 
containing  114  pounds  each,  for  the  purpose  of  being  forwarded  to  tSan  Francisco. 

The  produce  of  refined  borax  now  daily  obtained  appears  to  vary  from  2,500  to  2,800 
pounds,  which  is  prepared  and  packed  for  the  market,  as  nearly  as  my  data  will  allow  mo  to 
calculate,  at  a  cost  of  about  .S'JO  per  tou  of  2,240  pounds. 

Capabilities  fn.-  Production.— It  is  evident  from  the  foregoing  description  that  tho 
present  system  of  working  is  by  no  means  calculated. to  develop  the  best  results  which  this 
property  is  capable  of  affording,  and  that  in  order  to  do  so  it  will  be  necessary  to  adopt  some 
method  for  the  lixiviation  of  the  mud,  its  removal  from  the  bottom  of  the  lake,  and  the  crys- 
tallization of  the  borax  thus  obtained.  The  total  extent  of  the  muddy  deposit  considerably 
exceeds  three  hundred  acres,  and  if  we  assume  that,  of  this  area,  only  one  hundred  acres,  or 
that  portion  now  worked  for  borax  crystals,  is  alone  sufficiently  rich  to  pay  the  expenses  of 
treatment,  we  shall  arrive  at  the  follow mg figures: 

One  hundred  acres  are  equivalent  to  484,000  square  yards,  and  if  the  mud  bo  worked  to 
the  depth  of  only  three  and  one-half  feet,  this  represents  about  505,000  cubic  yards ;  or, 
allowing  a  cubic  yard  to  weigh  a  tou  of  2,210  pouuds,  which  is  a  very  low  estimate,  the  total 
weight  of  one  hundred  acres  of  mud,  in  its  wet  state,  will  be  565,000  tons.  If  we  now 
assume  that  the  mud  extracted  from  the  lake  contains  GO  per  cent,  of  water,  this  will  cor- 
respond to  226,000  toDs  of  dry  mud,  containing,  according  to  the  mean  of  the  analyses  of 


266  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

Professor  Oxland  and  Mr.  Moore,  18.29  per  cent,  of  borax  ;  but  if,  in  practice,  only  12  per 
cent,  of  borax  be  obtained,  this  will  represent  27,120  tons  of  crystallized  salt. 

The  present  wholesale  price  of  borax  in  Europe  is  §320  per  ton  of  2,240  pounds,  and  con- 
sequently the  total  value  of  the  amount  contained  in  this  portion  of  the  lake  would  be,  on 
the  foregoing  assumption,  delivered  in  the  market,  $8,G78,4U0,  If,  however,  we  estimate  its 
value  in  San  Francisco  at  $275,  it  is  at  the  port  of  shipment  worth  $7,458,000.  The  expend- 
iture, in  plant  and  appliances,  of  a  further  sum  of  $30,000,  would,  by  the  process  proposed 
bj'  Dr.  Oxland,  allow  of  a  daily  production  of  four  tons  of  borax.  This  could  be  produced 
and  delivered  in  San  Francisco  at  a  cost,  exclusive  of  interest  on  capital  and  depreciation  of 
plant,  of  $70  per  ton;  $],b98,400  for  the  27,100,  and  leaving  a  difference  of  $4,559,600 
between  the  expense  of  production  and  the  market  value. 

The  above  calculations  are  made  in  accordance  with  the  data  famished  by  the  analyses 
already  quoted  of  the  mud  in  the  central  portions  of  the  basin,  but  exclusive  of  a  considera- 
tion of  the  borax  contained  in  the  deposits  of  other  portions  of  the  lake,  as  well  as  of  the 
G,000  tons  of  this  salt,  indicated  by  analyses,  as  existing  in  solution  in  its  waters. 

A  careful  consideration  of  the  phenomena  attending  the  production  of  borax  also  leads  to 
the  belief  that  its  formation  is  continually  going  on  by  the  decomposition  of  carbonate  of 
soda,  (which  is  abundantly  contained  in  the  waters  of  the  lake,)  by  boracic  acid  emitted 
fi-om  sources  beneath  its  bed,  since  large  quantities  of  carbonic  acid  constantly  escape  from 
the  surface.  Should  this  prove  to  be  the  case,  it  is  probable  that  any  moderate  extraction  ot 
borax  may  be  replaced  by  the  formation  constantly  taking  place. 

The  quantity  of  carbonate  of  soda  contained  in  the  mud  and  water  is  considerably  in  excess 
of  the  amount  of  borax  present,  and  could  be  readily  extracted  from  the  mother  liquors. 
Whether  this  operation  could,  however,  be  profitably  conducted,  with  a  view  to  the  exporta- 
tion of  soda  ash,  is  a  matter  of  considerable  doubt,  but  the  yearly  consumption  of  this  sub- 
stance in  California  being  understood  to  be  about  500  tons,  this  local  demand  could,  at  least, 
be  supplied,  at  a  profit  of  say  2^  cents  per  pound— $25,000  per  annum. 

Sulphur. — Mr.  Phillips  thus  describes  tlie  sulphur  bank  belonging  to  this 
compauj'^,  and  the  mode  and  cost  of  refining  the  crude  sulphm- : 

Sulphur  Bank. — The  sulphur  bank,  which  presents  the  usual  characteristics  of  such  for- 
mations, is  situated  on  the  shore  of  Clear  lake,  and  covers  an  area  ot  about  40,000  square 
yards.     In  addition  to  sulphur,  small  quantities  of  cinnabar  are  found  in  this  locality. 

The  deposit  has  not,  as  yet,  been  extensively  developed,  but  has  already  afforded  400  tons 
of  refined  sulphur,  of  which  about  three  tons  daily  can,  it  is  stated,  be  readily  sold  in  San 
Francisco  at  $70  per  ton. 

From  the  limited  extent  of  the  explorations  which  have  been  made,  it  would  be  difiBcult 
to  estimate  the  probable  total  j'ield  of  sulphur,  but  it  is  not  unreasonable  to  anticipate  that 
the  bank  contains  at  least  from  15,000  to  20,000  tons  of  that  substance. 

In  order  to  make  immediate  returns  of  sulphur,  a  refinery  has  been  recently  erected  for  the 
treatment  of  the  richer  portions  of  the  deposit,  which  frequently  do  not  contain  above  10  per 
cent,  of  impurity ;  but  there  are  also  vast  quantities  of  tufaceous  matters,  containing  from 
5  to  Go  per  cent,  of  sulphur,  all  of  Avhich  will  be  ultimately  treated  with  advantage. 

The  cost  of  extracting,  refining,  and  delivering  a  ton  of  sulphur  in  San  Francisco  is  now 
stated  to  be  about  $35. 

The  refinery  consists  of  sundry  iron  retorts  for  the  purposes  of  sublimation,  together  with 
the  necessary  condensers  and  receivers.  It  is  well  laid  out,  and  connected  with  the  sulphur 
bank  by  a  railway  1,300  feet  in  length. 


SECTION  XXI. 

AGRICULTURAL  RESOURCES  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

CALIFORNIA  AS  A  HO.ME  FOR  EMIGRANTS." 


INQUIRIES   FROM   LOUISIANA— RESPONSE   OF  THE   EMIGRATION  SOCIETY— PUBLIC  LANDS. 
AGRICULTURE,    MANUF.\CTURES,   ETC. 

New  Iberia,  Louisiana,  September  25, 1867. 

Sir  :  Some  six  weeks  or  two  months  ago  I  presumed  to  address  you,  not  directing  the  letter, 
as  is  now  advised,  by  I'anania.  I  think  it  more  than  probable,  on  account  of  Indian  disturb- 
ances, it  will  not  reach  its  destination. 

In  that,  the  first  letter,  I  made  many  inquiries  in  regard  to  your  favored  State,  and  if  I 
repeat  them  in  this,  I  trust  you  will  not  esteem  me  troublesome.     There  are  several  families 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  267 

of  us  desirous  of  cscapiii<T  from  the  cvil^  tliat  aftlict  thi.s  sfction,  nnd  try  onr  fortunes  in 
States  not  curseil  by  nepro  siipreniacy.  Wo  lost  nearly  cvorylliinp;  by  t!ie  war,  and  wo  wish 
ouly  protection  and  health,  that  wo  may  tr}'  to  live  and  educate  our  children,  and  where,  if 
we  should  be  so  fortunate  as  to  make  anything,  we  would  bo  protected  in  its  enjoyment. 
With  politics  we  are  disgusted,  and  cannot  caro  again  to  exercise  the  privilege  of  voting,  but 
heartily  wishing  to  be  governed  by  our  own  race. 

To  the  I'olknviug  inquiries  we  most  respectfully  ask  answers,  and  should  your  time  be  other- 
wise employed,  we  ask  that  you  hand  this  to  some  one  that  will  honor  us  with  the  solicited 
iuformation: 

1.  Are  the  public  lands  entirely  absorbed? 

2.  Can  they  be  entered,  if  public  ? 

3.  Are  there  any  special  laws  regulating  the  entry  ? 

4.  In  what  part  of  the  State  are  these  lands  mostly  situated  ? 

5.  What  is  the  price  of  unimproved  lands  not  very  close  to  the  city  ? 
G.  Of  improved  places  ? 

7.  What  are  the  wages  of  laborers  by  day,  or  month,  or  year  ? 

8.  Is  there  a  demand  for  labor  ? 

0.  Is  mining  more  profitable  than  farming,  or  vice  versa  ? 

10.  What  section  Avould  you  advise  poor  people,  desirous  of  making  a  living,  and,  if  pos- 
sible, more,  to  settle  in  ? 

11.  At  about  what  price  could  work-horses,  milch  cows,  &c.,  be  bought  in  the  rural  dis- 
tricts ? 

Vi.  Are  goods  of  all  descriptions  very  much  more  costly  than  in  New  York  or  New  Orleans  ? 

13.  Are  there  any  diseases  peculiar  to  the  climate? 

14.  And  any  information  that  you  may  judge  would  be  of  interest  or  service. 

Several  of  us  are  professional  men,  but  we  caro  not  for  profession  if  we  can  only  have  a 
•white  man's  chance  to  work,  and  thereby  su{)port  and  educate  our  families.  We  would 
arrive  in  your  city  with  but  little  money,  and  it  would  be  well  for  us,  I  suppose,  to  remain 
but  a  short  time,  and  not  be  very  long  in  locating.  At  what  season  would  it  be  best  to  arrive  ? 
Cotton  crop  a  failure  in  this  State;  corn  and  cane  very  fine.  Yellow  fever  has  been  very 
severe.  Permit  me  again  to  ask  the  favor  of  an  early  and  full  answer  to  the  above  inquiries. 
Yours,  respectfully, 

THOS.  T.  FOLSOM. 
His  Honor  the  Mayor  of  San  Francisco,  California. 


EErLT. 


Query.  "  Are  the  public  lands  entirely  absorbed  ?" 

Answer.  No.  There  are  millions  of  acres  yet  in  the  keeping  of  the  federal  government 
officers,  which  can  be  had  for  .^1  an  acre  in  gold.  Ouly  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  great 
thoroughfares,  the  navigable  rivers,  the  fragments  of  railways  yet  constructed,  the  mining 
camps  and  the  like,  has  ever  the  government  surveyor  yet  erected  his  theodolite.  The  whole 
population  of  the  States  of  Calilbrnia,  Oregon,  Nevada,  and  the  Territory  of  Washington,  does 
not  come  to  a  million  of  souls,  and  they  have  more  laud  to  live  upon  than  the  entire  German 
family  of  '30  nations  and  G(),(JOU,000.  There  are  plenty  of  good  spots  where  small  colonies 
of  immigrants  may  squat  upon  and  await  the  coming  (for  years)  of  the  federal  government 
surveyor,  and  when  he  shall  come,  the  %l  an  acre  demanded  by  the  government  will  have 
long  before  been  realized  out  of  the  land. 

In  the  San  Joaquin  valley,  (JO  miles  back  from  Stockton,  (a  city  of  about  5,000  inhabitants, 
and  one  night's  journey  by  steamer  from  San  Francisco,)  plenty  of  land  can  be  got  for  $1  in 
gold  per  acre  from  the  government  office  in  Stockton.  This  valley  is  about  lUU  miles  long, 
a  width  varying  from  10  to  30  miles,  through  which  streams,  navigable  for  flatboats,  flow 
down  to  the  Sacramento  river.  The  soil  is  deep  and  rich,  and  the  bottoms  near  the  water 
are  exceedingly  fertile,  and  able  to  support  abundance  of  kine.  This  valley  would  absorb 
100,000  settlers. 

We  have  received  from  Mr.  Merry,  of  Red  Bluff,  (a  growing  town  of  about  2,000  inhabit- 
ants, at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Sacramento  river,  and  to  be  reached  in  two  days  by 
steamer  from  San  Francisco,  at  an  expense  of  from  $10  to  112,)  an  elaborate  report  of  the 
agricultural  and  business  facilities  in  that  section.     He  says : 

"  The  slopes  of  the  Sierra  hills  and  coast  range,  being  well  watered,  afford  good  pasturage 
for  sheep  and  horned  cattle  during  the  year.  The  arable  land  of  the  country  lying  along  the 
'  bottoms '  of  the  Sacramento  river  and  its  tributaries  bear  grain  crops  of  from  j'ti  to  40  bushels 
of  wheat  to  the  acre.  The  best  lands  in  the  county  (Tehama  county)  are  covered  by  Mexican 
grants,  to  which  patent  titles  from  the  President  of  the  United  States  have  been  obtained. 
These  lands  can  be  i)urchased  from  present  holders  for  $10  to  $J5  per  acre.  They  are  adapted 
to  the  growth  of  grain,  potatoes  and  beets.  All  kinds  of  vegetables  and  fruit  grow  in  the 
greatest  luxuriance.     Sheep  breeding  pays  well.    The  flocks  in  this  county  number  about 


268  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

100,000  sheep.     The  quality  of  wool  has  a  very  good  name  in  the  Sau  Francisco  market,  and 
brings  20  cents  a  pound.     Butter  will  pay  well  for  skilful  dairymen,  and  cheese  also. 

"For  swine  there  is  no  better  county  in  the  State.  Over  4,000  head  of  grain-fed  hogs 
have  been  sold  out  of  the  county  during  the  past  jeaw  A  pork  and  bacon-packing  house  in 
this  place  is  doing  an  extensive  business.  The  establishment  of  a  woollen-mill  here  would 
be  the  best  investment  of  capital  extant.  Lumber  is  cheap,  firewood  plenty,  and  water  power 
abundant,  going  to  waste.  An  iron  foundry  would  pay  well  here.  Money  is  dear,  it  brings 
two  per  cent.,  and  two  and  a  half  per  cent,  per  month.  Farm  laborers  get  $3U  per  mouth 
and  board.  Blacksmiths  and  wagon  makers  do  well.  Some  have  got  rich.  Good  board 
can  be  got  for  $i'0  to  $25  a  month.  Cottages  can  be  got  for  from  $S  to  .^15  a  month  rent. 
Town  lots  for  building  can  be  entered  at  government  prices.  Common  necessaries  from  the 
farms  are  cheaper  than  in  San  Francisco.  Imported  articles  are  about  30  ,per  cent,  higher. 
As  to  vine  culture  it  is  the  best  locality  for  that  industry  in  the  State.  Here  is  the  celebrated 
Bosquejo  vineyard,  where  the  'Gerke'  wine  is  made,  which  is  a  fair  sample  of  our  vine  lands. 
Thousands  of  acres  of  equally  good  lands  can  be  had  here  for  $]  25  an  acre." 

The  section  of  country'  referred  to  by  Mr.  Merry  would  absorb  and  maintain  100,000  persons. 

In  the  counties  south  of  San  Francisco — Monterey,  for  instance — two  days' journey  by 
stage  from  Francisco,  large  tracts  of  the  richest  land,  owned  by  easy-going  people  of  Spanish 
descent,  can  be  purchased  or  rented  upon  very  advantageous  terms  ;  purchased  for  $1  or  $2 
an  acre,  or  rented  on  shares  for  one-forth  of  the  annual  product  of  the  land.  The  chief  and 
greatest  cost  is  the  cost  of  fencing. 

In  many  places  the  old  Spanish  settlers  own  tracts  of  30,000  to  50,000  acres,  unfenced  and 
undivided,  over  which  numberless  flocks  of  sheep  and  cattle  roam  and  breed  and  die,  without 
control  or  much  care  from  the  proprietors,  who  live  in  rude  ease,  and  almost  secluded  from 
the  outside  world.  Their  slumbers  will  soon  be  broken  by  the  hum  of  busy  immigrants,  who 
will  come  crowding  by  sea  and  land  into  their  fruitful  territories.  Furtiier  south,  towards 
Los  Angeles,  the  best  lands  can  be  purchased  from  those  old-fashioned  settlers  for  $1  an 
acre,  or  even  le.'^s.     There  is  very  little  timber  to  be  cleared  from  any  of  these  lands, 

To  go  upon  these  lands,  several  families  should  form  themselves  into  villages  or  companies, 
and  go  out  together  on  the  land  and  help  each  other.  This  co-operative  sj'stem  i^  sure  to  make 
immigrants  happy  and  prosperous.  Farming  implements  can  be  got  here  better  and  cheaper 
than  in  England,  or  in  any  of  the  An;erican  cities  of  the  Atlantic.  Farm  horses  can  be  pur- 
chased for  $20  to  $40  apiece ;  milk  cows,  $20  to  .$30  each.  The  expense  of  transi)ortiiig  one 
])erson  from  this  city  to  the  government  land  may  be  set  down  at  $20.  Markets  can  be  found 
for  any  quantity  of  grain,  butter,  wool,  and  fruits.  The  vine  is  slow  in  its  returns,  but 
qitite  certain  to  pay  at  the  end  of  four  or  five  years,  and  will  yet  be  the  great  occupation 
of  Califoniians.  The  climate  in  most  parts  of  California  is  moderate ;  in  winter  there  is 
neither  frost  nor  snow. 

The  population  of  California  is  about  500,000.  About  90,000.  of  these  have  votes,  and 
are  entered  on  the  great  register.  Being  an  American'citizen,  and  residing  three  months 
in  one  locality,  gives  the  privilege  of  voting  far  all  public  ofticers.  The  voting  is  done  ia 
one  day,  b}'  ballot,  all  over  the  State,  and  there  is  no  property  qualification  required  in  the 
voter  or  in  the  public  officer.  A  person  born  out  of  the  United  States  must  be  two  years 
resident  in  the  United  States,  have  sworn  fealty  to  the  American  government,  and  harve 
registered  his  name  on  the  great  register  before  he  can  vote. 

There  are  about  50,000  Chinese,  and  about  10,000  negroes  in  the  State.  Neitlier  of  them 
liave  any  political  rights  allowed  them.  They  cannot  vote  for  any  public  officer,  nor  is  it 
likely  that  ever  they  will  enjoy  such  privileges.  The  Chinese  are  looked  upon  with  much 
jealousy  by  the  white  race.  Opposition  to  thein  has  assumed  an  organized  shape,  and  there 
are  numerous  anti-coolie  clubs  existing  in  our  city,  whose  object  is  to  resist  and  discourage 
the  importation  and  employment  of  Chinese  labor.  About  8,000  Chinamen  arc  employed 
on  the  Pacific  railway  works;  about  20,000  are  working  in  and  around  the  mines,  and  the 
remainder  are  scattered  over  the  State  engaged  in  doing  the  lowest  kind  of  work  about  the 
cities  and  towns;  washing,  gardening,  dealing  in  lish  an<l  vegetables,  «S:c. 

Question  2.  "Is  there  a  demand  for  labor  ?" 

Answer.  We  are  anxiously  and  carefully  gathering  information  from  every  side,  from 
reliable  sources,  with  the  intention  of  forming  a  small  haud-hook  for  the  intending  immigrant. 
\Ve  arc  full  of  the  great  idea  of  inviting  an  extensive  immigration  from  Europe,  and  from  the 
southern  and  eastern  States,  to  the  Pacific  slope,  but  we  shudder  at  the  thought  of  mislead- 
inc  any  one.  It  Is  almost  unnecessary  to  repeat  that  wo  have  room  and  work  for  millions 
of  people  in  our  fields  and  mines,  but  the  great  trouble  is  to  support  people  while  they  are 
finding  the  work  suited  to  their  strength,  tlreir  habits,  and  their  c-^perience.  1'he  idea  that 
tills  the  minds  of  many  p(n'sons  in  making  towards  California  is,  that  they  shall  go  a  gold- 
hunting  in  the  mines,  make  lucky  hits,  and  return  at  some  distant  day  to  their  old  homes  in 
Euro]jo  or  the  Atlantic  States  to  enjoy  their  good  fortunes.  This  idea  has  been  the  unseen 
rock  that  wrecked  many  an  emigrant  to  this  golden  land.  None  should  come  to  the  California 
mines  but  miners. 

On  the  first  discovery  of  gold  in  California,  and  for  several  years  afterwards,  every  kind 
of  laborer  went  into  the  mines,  and  many  of  them  did  very  well ;  but  of  late  years  the  Chinese 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  2G9 

got  in,  and  swarmod  over  the  "  placer  "  or  stream  mines,  and  as  they  work  in  well  organized 
companies,  live  upon  little,  they  are  able  to  scrape  a  living  from  the  oft-washed  sands  in  tho 
older  washin<j  {:tronnds  of  the  earlier  miners.  The  principal  mining  now  carried  on  in  Cali- 
fornia is  quartz  mining,  which  is  as  like  coal  or  iron  mining  as  possible — penetrating  the 
bowels  of  the  earth  several  hundred  feet — men  working  iu  gangs,  in  "watches"  of  eight 
hours  each  shift,  so  that  the  work  never  stops,  night  or  day.  For  this  kind  of  work  miners 
get  si  11  tlay.  Their  board  and  lodging  in  the  neighborhood  of  those  qnartz  mines  comes 
high,  about  $8  or  §10  a  week,  as  a  general  rule  ;  two  and  a  half  days'  wages  is  required  to 
pay  for  a  miner's  board  and  lodging  for  a  week.  A  great  deal  of  the  work  on  the  Pacific 
railroad  on  our  side  of  the  Rocky  mountains  is  performed  by  Chinamen,  under  white  over- 
seers. They  get  about  si  a  day  for  their  lalior.  White  men  could  get  that  wages  and  board, 
but  they  won't  work  for  it.  A  dollar  a  day  is  the  lowest  notch  which  the  strong  man's  labor 
has  touched  in  any  part  of  California.  Common  labor,  according  to  skill,  ranges  up  to 
$1  .'lO  and  $"i  a  day.  We  are  not  now  talking  of  skilled  mechanical  labor,  such  as  carpenters, 
bricklayers,  plasterers,  smiths,  machinists,  foundry  men,  tailors,  shoemakers,  and  the  like. 
The  labor  of  these  sort  brings  $']  to  $5  a  day  in  all  the  cities  and  in  all  the  towns  of  the 
Pacific  coast.  As  to  clerks  and  light  porters,  and  those  who  are  always  waiting  for  an  easy 
berth  or  something  to  "  turn  up,"  there  is  little  encouragement  for  them.  The  cities  are  full 
of  them.  This  sort  of  helpless  people  are  the  production  of  an  erroneous  system  of  education, 
which  has  weaned  the  boy  from  labor,  and  left  tho  man  a  helpless,  pitiable  mendicant. 

You  are,  doiibtless,  impatient  to  learn,  then,  what  sort  of  people  are  likely  to  do  well  here, 
and  we  answer,  any  sort  who  are  thoroughly  determined  to  work — men  and  women,  young 
and  old. 

The  lowest  wages  for  labor  among  us  is  about  twice  the  wages  of  New  York,  and  four 
times  the  wages  obtained  in  Great  Britain,  Ireland,  or  Germany.  The  price  of  wheaten  flour 
is  about  one-lialf  what  it  is  iu  Liverpool  or  New  York — sS  a  barrel  of  J9(i  pounds  just  now. 
Tea,  sugar,  and  cottee  about  the  same  as  in  England  or  New  York.  Clothing  and  bouse 
rent  about  double  the  English  rates,  and  about  the  same  as  in  New  York.  All  the  foregoing 
rates  are  in  gold. 

Question  'A.  "  Is  mining  more  profitable  than  farming  ?" 

Answer.  This  question  is  one  still  more  difficult  to  answer.  Farming  has  lately  acquired 
a  fixed  character.  The  fine  qualities  of  wheat  and  flour  which  California  yields — the  vast 
quantities  of  wool,  of  butter,  of  fruit  and  wine,  and  the  high  prices  these  products  realize  in 
New  York  and  Liverpool,  have  latterly  decided  great  numbers  of  our  population  to  go  mto 
fiirming.  One  only  drawback  which  farming  in  California  will  ever  experience,  and  that 
will  occasionally  arise  from  long  seasons  of  drought. 

The  last  three  years  the  seasons  were  very  well  mixed  with  rains  about  the  time  they  were 
wanted,  and  sunshine  when  wanted;  and  our  farmers  have  had  splendid  crops  and  obtained 
high  prices.  About  four  years  ago.  there  was  a  long  drought  and  a  cattle  famine  was  expe- 
rienced. Flour  ran  up  to  very  high  rates,  and  there  was  much  sufYering  among  the  worknig 
people.  This  has  passed  away  and  is  forgotten  in  our  present  prosperity,  but  it  is  well  for 
all  immigrants  facing  to  this  country  to  be  made  aware  of  these  things. 

We  have,  in  general,  about  seven  months  of  the  year  when  there  does  not  fall  a  drop  of  rain, 
yet  vegetation  is  nourished  by  copious  dews.     Then  we  have  four  or  five  months  when  it 

f)ours  down  plenteously,  and  this  rain  it  is  that  brings  us  the  means  to  obtain  the  food  that 
ies  intact  iu  the  earth,  and  enables  our  miners  to  wash  the  clay  and  sand  that  contains  the 
gold  dust. 

The  total  produce  of  our  gold  and  silver  mines  may  be  set  at  §50,000,000  to  $60,000,000 
a  year.  Our  farming  and  general  agricultural  products  will  verj'  soon,  if  they  do  not  now, 
foot  up  to  §50,000,0U0  worth  a  year.  The  value  of  the  wheat  and  flour  shipped  from  Cali- 
fornia since  last  harvest  comes  u;)  to  .S'J,OGO,()00 ;  and  as  fast  as  good  ships  come  into  the 
harbor  they  are  engaged  to  takeout  wheat  and  flour,  wool,  hides,  &c.  The  general  demand 
for  all  sorts  of  mechanics  in  this  city,  and  througliout  the  State,  was  never  better.  The 
wages,  as  we  have  said,  range :  For  Chinamen,  §1  a  day ;  common  laborers,  §i  a  day ; 
skilled  mechanics  §3  to  S4  a  day — some  of  superior  skill,  §5  a  day  ;  female  servants,  §15  to 
§•25  a  month,  and  board ;  farm  laborers,  §30  a  month,  and  board.  All  these  prices  are  gold, 
and  all  our  dealings  hero  arc  managed  on  a  gold  basis. 

Question  4.   "Arc  there  any  diseases  peculiar  to  California?" 

Answer.  The  climate  of  California  is  tho  most  healthful  to  be  found  in  the  world.  It  is 
equable  all  the  year  round.  The  thermometer  ranges  from  50°  to  'M°  throughout  the  State. 
We  lay  from  'M°  to  4-2°  north  latitude.  We  have  neither  frost  nor  snow,  except  on  the  high 
mountains  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  some  of  the  mountains  in  the  Coast  range.  The  only 
drawback  to  health  is  experienced  in  the  neighborhootl  of  the  mines,  where  the  water  is  over- 


and  beauty  beyond  those  of  any  race  on  the  face  of  the  globe. 

Next  to  the  employments  under  the  head  of  "ordinary  agriculture"  is  the  rine  culture, 
which  is  peculiar  to  California ;  its  vines  and  wiues  arc  now  celebrated  all  over  tho  world. 


270  EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

But  a  few  years  ago  it  was  not  supposed  tbe  vine  would  flourish  anywhere  but  in  the  sonth- 
evn  region  and  Los  Angeles.  Latterly,  experiments  have  demonstrated  that  it  will  flourish 
in  the  acclivities  around  the  mining  camp  as  well  as  amid  the  sheep-walks  and  pastoral  plains 
and  valleys  ;  that  whether  it  is  pressed  into  wine  or  distilled  into  brandy,  it  will  reward  the 
labor  bestowed  upon  its  cultivation.  The  California  wines  begin  to  make  their  way  in  the 
New  York  market,  and  each  new  year  will  confer  on  their  quality  more  richness  and  more 
reputation. 

The  grape  vines  of  California,  when  five  years  old,  yield  plenteously  ;  one  has  only  to  own 
half  dozen  acres,  well  planted  with  vines  of  that  age,  to  realize  a  life-long  indepedcnce.  In 
a  few  years  from  the  present  time,  the  wine  and  silk  of  Calilbrnia  will  form  some  of  the  lead- 
ing articles  of  its  export. 

The  fruits  of  C/ilifornia  are  now  so  rich  and  plentiful  that  the  farmers  begin  to  dry,  and 
press,  and  ship  them  to  the  Atlantic  cities,  from  whence,  but  a  very  few  years  ago,  we 
imported  dried  fruits,  flour,  &c. 

The  raising  of  the  silk-worm  has  been  commenced  in  California,  and  has  succeeded.  It 
is  proven  that  the  climate  is  f(uit(^  as  favorable  as  that  of  France  or  Italy  for  this  branch  of 
industry.  Arrangements  arc  in  progress  to  start  a  silk  factory.  The  success  of  this  experi 
ment  will  Jbad  to  national  results  by  and  by.  We  shall  soon  come  to  the  raising  of  tobacco, 
beet  root,  and  manufacture  of  beet  and  cane  sugar,  cotton,  flax,  linen,  hemp,  and  hops,  for 
all  of  which  the  soil  and  climate  are  admirably  fitted.  Some  cotton  has  been  raised  in  the 
southern  parts  of  the  State  in  a  desultory  way,  but  the  soil  awaits  the  enterprising  hands  of 
toiling  men  to  bring  about  those  great  results  from  the  vast  and  varied  material  that  sleeps 
neglected  in  the  soil,  and  hovers  over  tis  in  the  overhanging  climate. 

We  are  building  small  coasting  schooners  of  50  to  2UU  tons.  All  those  craft  are  well 
employed  in  carrying  lumber,  coal,  and  the  produce  of  the  fields  into  market,  and  latterly 
groups  of  those  small  craft  have  gone  fishing  for  cod  in  the  North  Pacific  with  great  sticcess. 
The  salmon  and  other  fish  caught  in  our  waters  are  certainly  the  best  in  the  world. 

Our  progress  in  manufacture  is  infimtino  and  rude.  Three  or  four  woollen  mills  and  one 
cotton  fiictory  are  all  that  California  can  boast  of,  but  these  are  doing  well,  and  in  good  time 
others  will  start.  Our  tanneries  are  numerous  in  city  and  country,  and  their  manufactures 
well  liked  and  in  good  demand.  We  should  say  the  business  is  healthy,  with  fair  profits. 
Soap  and  candle  factories  are  experimenting  on  the  native  tallow  and  beeswax  of  the  country 
— this  is  the  land  for  bees  and  honey. 

They  have  begun  one  factory  for  making  boots  and  shoes,  and  so  far  it  is  prosperous, 
employing  two  hundred  hands.  There  is  room  here  for  many  paper  and  flour  mills.  Wo 
kavo  two  glass  factories,  on  a  small  scale,  doing  well,  and  any  number  of  iron  foundries,  all 
at  full  work.  Tiiere  has  been  a  glove  factory  lately  started,  and  is  doing  well ;  also  a  rude 
pottery-ware  factory.  We  want  half  a  dozen  hat  factories,  in  which  the  hat  from  the  founda- 
tion would  be  made,  trimmed  and  finished.  We  have  plenty  of  printers  and  an  abundance 
of  newspapers.  The  population  of  Sau  Francisco  is  about  ]'20,000.  We  have  eight  morn 
ing  and  evening  newspapers,  and  12  or  15  weeklies.  We  have  a  score  of  banks,  15  insu- 
rance companies,  any  number  of  hotels,  boarding  houses,  and  public  schools.  About  half 
the  population  arc  native-born  Americaiis  from  the  Atlantic  States  ;  the  otber  half  is  divided 
among  the  Germans,  Irish,  French,  Spanish,  Chinese,  and  negroes.  The  Jews  have  two 
synagogues,  the  Roman  Catholics  eight  churches,  and  the  Protestants  a  dozen  or  so.  Take 
thorn  as  a  whole,  they  are  the  most  hospitable  and  generous  crowd  of  citizens  to  be  found  iu 
any  seaport  round  tLc  whole  earth.  No  man  nor  woman  will  be  suffered  to  want  food  here, 
and  no  industrious  man  nor  woman  need  be  afraid  of  Ciisting  their  destiny  in  the  fertile  grazing 
lands  of  California. 

We  hope  these  few  hints  on  our  new  and  growing  State  will  be  useful.    The  worst  time  for 
travelling  through  our  interior  districts  are  the  winter  and  spring  months,  when  the  roads 
are  softened  by  the  rains.     Rains  usually  begin  in  December  and  continue  down  to  April. 
We  remain,  respectfully, 

H.  A.  COBB,  President. 

THOMAS  MOONEY,  Tice  President. 

J.  W.  MfiKENZIE,  Secretary. 

San  Fkancisco,  Octoher  29,  1867. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


271 


Tahdar  sfalcmcnt  of  receipts  and  exports  of  apricidtiirrd  products  at  San  Fran- 
cisco, California,  from  June,  18G0,  to  Jul//,  1SG7. 


RECEIPTS. 


Year. 


1861 

1862 

1863 

1864 

1865 

1866 

1867 

Totals 


Flour. 


barrels. 
122,  809 
111,269 
149,825 
99, 298 
01,070 
107,316 
301,449 


Wheat. 


100-lh.  sacks. 
2,164,320 
1,451,465 
1,890,777 
1,843,840 
509, 163 
2,138,442 
5,214,196 


1,013,036 


15, 212, 203 


Barley. 


lOO-lh.  sacks 
071,414 
012,014 
435, 945 
623, 201) 
415,914 
984, 21  »8 
767, 938 


4,510,699 


Oats. 


100-//>.  sacks. 
305, 208 
313,808 
172, 896 
304,  504 
255, 8^39 
322, 528 
326,119 


2,030,902 


Wool. 


Pounds. 
3,721,998 
5, 990,  300 
6, 268, 480 
7, 435, 670 
8, 889,  931 
7,851,629 
"7, 1^)6, 680 


47,334,688 


To  August  1. 


EXPORTS. 


Year. 

Flour. 

Wheat. 

Barley. 

Oats. 

Wool. 

18G1 

Barrels. 
197, 181 
191,652 
144,882 
152, 033 
91,479 
279, 554 
485, 337 

100-lb.  sacks. 
1,529,924 

851,844 
1,043,052 
1,071,292 
25, 360 
1,039,518 
3,636,194 

100-lb.  sacks. 

339, 537 

188,619 

49, 609 

40, 260 

13,920 

349,991 

142, 157 

100-/&.  sacks. 

116,462 

154,587 

39, 985 

91,  082 

3, 389 

113,9()1 

88,331 

Pounds. 
3  721  998 

1862 

5  990  3^J0 

1863 

5, 2ti8,  480 
5,935  670 

1864 

1>65 

6.549,931 
4  062  129 

1866 

Ic07 , 

2  104  000 

Totals 

1,452,718 

9,197,784 

1,124,296 

607,797 

^-l,  232, 508 

Countries  to  which  exported  during  the  year  18G7. 


Destination. 

Flour. 

Wheat. 

Barley. 

Oats. 

Wool. 

New  York 

Barrels. 

201,478 

38,921 

69, 270 

1,410 

4,  171 

1 ,  676 

3, 149 

1,650 

22,669 

40, 732 

\00-lb.  sacks. 

510,784 

3,131,553 

151,124 

544 

366 

2, 950 

10 

172, 0^9 

lOO-lb.  sacks. 
27, 625 

2, 797 

1 ,  700 
28, 579 

1,763 
7,78S 

2,  130 
70, 892 

100-?/;.  sacks. 

Pounds. 
2, 758, 000 

Great  Britain 

83 
3, 544 
2,700 
2,487 
565 
187 
1,281 

China 

Japan  

Hawaiian  Islands  

British  Columhia 

Mexico 

Australia 

Rio  do  Janeiro 

Other  countries 

58,  546 

1,223 

196 

Totals 

385,126 

4,027,916 

143,497 

11,043 

'>  753  0(  9 

\ 

272 


RESOURCES  OF  STATES  AND  TERRITORIES 


SAN  FRANCISCO  IN  1867-'68.* 

The  total  popi-lation  of  the  city,  August  1,  1867,  is  estimated  at  131,100.  The  estinnte 
for  1858  was  83,223,  showing  an  increase  in  eight  years  of  47,677.  The  particulars  of  the 
estimate  for  1867  are  as  follows : 

White  males  over  21,  names  in  the  present  volume    45,000 

White  females  over  1 8,  estimated 27, 000 

White  males  under  21  and  females  under  18.  estimated 40,000 

White  males,  names  refused,  and  foreigners,  estimated 4, 000 

Chinese,  male  and  female 3, 600 

Colored,  male  and  female 2, 500 

Total  permanent  population 122, 100 

To  which  should  bo  added  a  large  element  of  our  population  knowu  as  "  floating," 
■which  consists  of:  1st.  Transient  boarders,  &c.,  at  hotels,  boarding-houses,  &c. 
2d.  Soldiers  at  the  fortifications  in  the  harbor.  3d.  Persons  engaged  in  navi- 
gating the  bay,  who  claim  the  city  as  their  residence.  4th.  A  large  number  of 
persons  who  have  no  permanent  place  of  abode,  together  amounting  to  about.. .       0, 000 

Total  population 131, 100 


The  school  census  of  July,  1867,  gives  the  number  of  children  iruder  15  years  at  34,710. 
The  number  of  males  between  15  and  21,  and  females  between  15  and  18,  is  estimated  at 
5,290,  making  the  aggregate  40,000  of  all  ages. 

Improvemknts  of  the  Year  Past.— The  number  of  buildings  erected  in  San  Francisco 
during  the  year  ending  June  30,  18G7,  is  1,050,  of  which  340  are  of  brick  ;  total  in  the  city 
and  county,  17,368,  of  which  3,857  are  of  brick.  The  estimated  cost  of  the  improvements 
during  the  pame  period  is  nearly  $9,000,000.  The  sales  of  real  estate  for  the  first  seven  months 
of  the  present  year  exceed  $10,000,000.  The  operations  of  the  department  of  streets  and 
liighways,  for  the  year  ending  June  30,  1867,  show  an  expenditure  exceeding  $1,000,000. 

The  cost  of  a  number  of  the  principal  new  buildings  is  thus  given :  Bank  of  California, 
$275,000;  Mercantile  Library,  $110,000;  Merchants' Exchange,  $190,000;  Fireman's  Fund 
Insurance,  $45,000;  Pacific  Insurance,  $80,000 ;  Merchants'  Mutual  Insurance,  $60.000 ; 
Hibernia  Savings  and  Loan,  $65,000;  Murplij',  Grant  &  Co.'s  four-story  iron-fronted  brick 
block,  $170,000;  enlargement  and  improvements  Lick  House,  $175,000 ;  Dr.  Scudder's 
church,  $64,000;  Trinity  church,  $75,000;  St.  Joseph's,  Catholic,  $18,000;  Tehema  street 
school-house,  $26,000;  almshouse,  $00,000;  Oriental  buildings,  $200,000;  additions  to  Occi- 
dental Hotel,  $125,000;  Blanding  &  Pringle's  block,  $70,000;  Ellis's  block,  $65,000;  Bran- 
nan's  new  building,  $60,000;  Savuigs  Union  building,  $50,000;  Hayward's  building,  corner 
California  and  Leidesdovff,  $90,O0tJ ;  Morrow's  building,  Calilbrnia,  near  Montgouieiy, 
$50,000;  Tucker's  building,  $45,000. 

Streets  and  Sewers. — The  total  expenditure  in  the  department  of  streets  and  highways 
for  the  year  ending  June  30,  1867,  amounts  to  $1,009,883  85,  viz:  For  grading  1,191,257 
cubic  yards,  at  a  cost  of  $327,3:53 :  paving  166,033  square  feet  cobble-stone  and  236,005  square 
feet  Nicholson,  together,  $117,594;  brick  sewers,  21,203  lineal  fet't,  $156,745;  planking, 
2,571,083  feet,  $96,897;  sidewalks,  69,925  front  feet,  $96,154  ;  cross  walks,  6,296  feet,  and 
curbs,  19,193  feet,  together,  $47,423;  macadamizing,  1,560,119  square  feet,  $117,272;  red- 
wood sewers,  12,137  feet,  $49,578.  The  entire  cost  of  street  work  from  July  1,  1856,  to  June 
30,  1867,  is  $5,439,287.  The  total  length  of  sewers  constructed  from  July  1,  1856,  to  June 
30,  1867,  is  165,583  lineal  feet,  or  nearly  30  miles  of  sewerage.  The  principal  improvements 
have  been  the  grading  of  McAlistcr  street,  from  Lavkin  to  Fillmore ;  Tenth  street,  from  Mar- 
ket to  Howard:  Townsend  street,  between  Third  and  Fourth;  Brannan  street,  between 
Second  and  Third;  Fillmore  street,  from  Sacramento  to  Pacific;  Clay  street,  from  Jones  to 
Leavenworth  ;  O'Farrell  street,  from  Larkin  to  Polk  ;  California  street,  from  Polk  to  Franklin ; 
Fulton  street,  from  Buchanan  to  Fillmore ;  Van  Ness  avenue,  from  Bush  to  Geary ;  Franklin 
street,  from  Ellis  to  Turk;  Main  street,  from  Mission  to  Folsom,;  Fourth  street,  between 
Brainian  and  Townsend  ;  Taylor  street,  between  Broadway  and  Vallejo;  Spear  street,  from 
Harrison  to  Folsom,  and  Bush  street,  fiom  jLarkin  to  Cemetery  avenue. 

Water  Front  Iimprovejients.— The  work  of  constructing  a  seawall  for  the  protection 
of  the  city  fiont  and  better  accommodation  of  shipping  has  been  commenced  during  the  past 
yciar.  It  will  bo  8,336  feet  in  length  when  completed.  It  is  estimated  to  cost  $2,462,470,  or 
$295  37|  per  linear  foot.  It  is  to  bo  constructed  of  solid  granite,  eight  feet  thick  at  base  and 
six  feet  at  lop,  resting  on  a  broad  embankment  of  rocks  and  cement. 

The  new  dry  dock,  nearly  completed,  at  Hunter's  Point,  about  four  miles  southeast  from 
Folsom  street  wliarf,  is  one  of  the  most  important  enterprises  over  undertaken  by  private 
citizens.  This  work  was  commenced  in  September,  1866,  and  is  expected  to  be  completed 
by  the  close  of  the  present  year.    The  dimensions  of  the  dock  are  465  feet  long  by  125  feet 

*  Compiled  from  Langlcy's  City  Directory. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  273 

•wide  on  the  suvfacc,  and  400  feet  long  by  80  feet  wide  on  tbo  bottom,  and  of  snfficient  depth 
to  poniiit  vcssi'ls  drawiufj  'J'i  feet  of  water  to  float  in  it.  Nearly  the  whole  of  this  preat  cxca- 
vaiiou  has  been  cut  out  of  solid  rock  Tlu^  materials  extracted  iiave  been  HuOicient  to  cover 
it)  r)l)-vara  lots  of  the  adjoiuius:  swanij)  laud  to  a  deptli  to  brin<j  them  up  to  the  grade  of  the 
city.  The  wiiole  front  of  the  dock  will  be  covered  with  .solid  blocks  of  cut  granite,  1:5,000 
KpLire  yards  of  which  have  been  brou'j,ht  from  the  quarries  at  Kocklin,  Sacramento  county, 
for  that  purpose.  Powerful  engines,  pumps,  and  every  necessary  arrangement  for  rendering 
the  works  complete  have  been  constructed,  the  whole  cost  of  which  will  exceed  $1,2(10,000. 

The  Merchants'  Dry  Dock  Company  have  completed  a  floating  apparatus,  calculated  to 
sustain  vessels  of  1,000  tons  burden.     This  dock  cost  $00,000. 

The  Union  Linnber  Association  are  constructing  a  dock  near  Beale  street,  which  is  esti- 
mated to  cost  §100,000.  This  association  has  expended  $185,000  in  the  construction  ot 
wharves  and  other  improvements  on  lands  adjoining  the  new  wharf  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Steam- 
ship Compauy.  The  improvements  made  and  in  progress  under  the  direction  of  this  latter 
con)pany  have  quite  changed  the  topography  of  the  western  front  of  the  city.  This  company 
owns  the  block  of  overflowed  land  bouudetl  by  First,  Second,  Townseud,  and  Brannau  streets, 
about  \2  50-vara  lots.  They  have  constructed  wharves,  which  have  required  ],200  piles, 
3,000,000  feet  of  sawed  lumber,  3.")  tons  of  iron  bolts,  and  300,000  cubic  yards  of  earth  to 
complete.  They  erected  a  two-story  brick  warehouse,  lt)5  feet  deep  by  230  feet  wide,  cut 
down  hills  and  filled  up  swamps  to  such  an  extent  that  what  had  been  the  most  useless  por- 
tion of  the  city  front  has  become  ihe  centre  of  an  extensive  business.  Hundreds  of  men  and 
teams  are  at  present  engaged  cutting  down  the  hills  in  the  vicinity  and  filling  up  the  shallow 
bay  with  the  materials,  extending  the  area  of  the  city  hundreds  of  feet  over  what  had  been 
useless  territory.     The  erection  of  several  large  warehouses  is  contemplated  in  the  vicinity. 

Markets  and  Eollixg  Mills. — The  new  California  Market,  extending  from  California, 
to  Pine  streets,  was  commenced  and  has  been  completed  during  the  past  year.  This  is  one 
of  the  most  useful  improvements  in  the  city,  being  centrally  located  and  most  conveniently- 
arranged.  It  is  a  most  substantial  structure,  with  elegant  iron  fronts  on  each  of  these  streets, 
resting  on  a  solid  cut-granite  basement.  It  cost  about  $200,000.  Another  extensive  market, 
which  cost  about  $60,000,  has  been  built  on  Howard  street,  between  Third  and  Fourth. 

Among  tbo  new  branches  of  manufacture  introduced  during  the  past  year  the  Pacific  Roll- 
ing Mills  holds  a  prominent  position.  It  is  located  at  Potrero  Point,  and  has  been  fitted  up 
with  every  requisite  for  manufacturing  iron  bars  and  rods  of  any  shape  or  form,  from  a  i 
inch  up  to  36  inches  in  diameter,  including  railroad  iron  of  all  descriptions.  These  works 
cost  $1,000,000. 

Real  Estate. — Statistics  in  the  office  of  the  city  and  county  assessor  place  the  value  of 
our  real  estate  improvements  for  the  past  fiscal  year  at  $58,000,000.  The  number  of  sales 
of  property  made  for  the  12  months  ending  July  31,  18G7,  was  5,213,  at  a  valuation  of 
$15,383,196.  The  above  figures  include  only  the  sales  recorded.  The  prices  paid  at  the 
Beidman  sale  would  swell  the  total  to  nearly  $16,000,000. 

Edl'Catiox.\l  Facts. — There  are  34,710  white  children  under  15  years  of  age  in  the  city. 
Our  juvenile  population  has  increased  nearly  300  per  cent,  in  seven  years.  The  average 
number  of  pupils  belonging  to  the  public  schools  June  30,  1867,  was  nearly  11,000.  Eight 
new  school-houses  were  erected  during  the  year.  The  disbursements  of  the  school  depart- 
ment of  the  public  school  fund  upon  the  assessment  roll  of  the  last  fiscal  year  were  $320,958  88 
— slightly  within  the  receipts.  Basing  the  amount  of  taxes  for  the  benefit  $80,000,000,  at 
the  school  tax  rate  of  35  cents  on  each  $100,  the  amount  raised  from  this  source  the  present 
year  will  be  .$280,000;  apportionment  of  the  State  school  fund,  $60,000 ;  poll  taxes,  $2,500  ; 
dog  tax,  $1,000;  rent  of  school  property,  $600;  evening  schools,  $200.  Total  revenue  for 
the  present  year,  $344,300. 

The  whole  number  of  private  educational  institutions  in  San  Francisco  is  about  70,  with 
an  aggregate  attendance,  including  students  at  the  different  colleges,  of  4,2i30.  Of  this  num- 
ber 12  are  under  the  control  of  the  Catholic  denomination,  and  the  regular  aggregate  attend- 
ance upon  the  same  is  over  3,400. 

There  are  21  schools  connected  with  the  Protestant  Sunday  School  Union.  The  average 
attendance,  at  these  schools  is  4,340  ;  other  Protestant  schools,  2,405 ;  Catholic  schools,  3,600 ; 
Hebrew,  690.  Total  who  receive  religious  instructions  on  the  Sabbath  day  in  this  city, 
11,035.  Libr.irie.s- -number  of  volumes  Sabbath  School  Union,  19,927;  other  Protestant 
schools,  12,000;  Catholic  schools,  6,000.  Total  number  of  volumes  in  Sabbath  schools  in 
this  city,  (Hebrew  not  included,)  37,927. 

Ni:\v  Manufactures. — Among  the  most  prominent  of  the  branches  of  industry  put  iii 
operation  are  the  Pacific  Woollen  Mills,  located  at  the  Mission,  manufacturing  knit  goods  of 
all  descriptions  at  the  rate  of  $500,000  annually,  and  employing  nearly  400  persons;  the 
Golden  City  Chemical  Works,  with  a  capital  of  $2,000,000,  and  manufacturing  a  great 
variety  of  chemicals  and  medicinal  extracts  ;  the  San  Francisco  Glass  Works,  manufacturing 
both  white  and  colored  glassware  to  the  extent  of  $150,000  a  year,  and  the  San  Fraiicisco 
Linseed  Oil  and  Paint  Works,  with  capacity  to  supply  the  entire  wants  of  the  coast.  These, 
with  minor  enterprises  inaugurated  during  the  same  period,  have  absorbed  more  than  §3,000,000 
capital,  and  will  turn  out  manufactures  to  half  that  amount  annually.  The  most  prominenJb 
of  the  enterprises  yet  unfinished  is  the  Pacific  Rolling  Mills,  which  promises  to  be  in  auc- 

18 


274  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

cessful  operation  within  the  next  twelve  months.  This  establishment  is  much  needed,  both 
to  do  away  with  the  importation  of  a  vast  amount  of  manufactured  metals  and  to  stimulate 
new  branches  of  labor  by  furnishing  supplies  of  home  materials  Avhich  are  required  to  make 
them  successful.  The  large  capital  of  these  mills,  and  their  contemplated  extensive  scope  of 
manufacture  in  copper  as  well  as  in  iron,  promise  to  do  more  to  develop  the  resources  of  the 
State  in  these  metals  than  all  similar  enterprises  now  in  operation  combined. 

General  Manufacturing  Items. — The  pecuniary  results  of  all  the  manufactxiring  inter- 
ests in  this  city  for  the  past  year  are  favorably  reported.  The  sugar  and  petroleum  factories 
are  alone  complained  of  as  being  less  successful  than  in  former  years.  The  Pioneer  and 
Mission  Woollen  Mills  manufactured  for  the  year  ending  June,  18U6,  goods  to  the  value  of 
$899,734.  The  Mission  mills  alone  turned  out,  with  425  hands,  80,000  pairs  of  blankets, 
125,000  yards  of  broadcloth  and  cassimere,  500,000  j'ards  of  flannel  and  cloaking,  besides  a 
quantity  of  shawls;  the  whole  consuming  2,000,000  of  wool.  The  Pacific  Woollen  Mills 
will  make  up  into  knit  woollen  goods  this  year  500,000  pounds  of  fine  wool,  ll^yer  &  Sons' 
cotton  wadding,  batting,  and  twine  works  can  turn  out  2, 000  pounds  of  wadding  and  batting 
per  day.  The  cotton  they  use  is  imported  chiefly  from  Tahiti  and  Mexican  ports.  The  Pacific 
Cordage  Factory  turned  out  last  year  2,000,000  pounds  of  cordage.  The  rope-walk  is  1,500 
feet  long,  and  the  works  altogether  employ  47  men  constantly.  The  Pioneer  Woollen  Mills, 
during  last  year,  employed  350  hands,  and  made  30.000  pairs  of  blankets,  60,000  yards  of 
broadcloths,  tweeds,  and  cassimeres,  and  375,000yardsof  flannels,  which  consumed  1,300,000 
pounds  of  choice  wool.  A  very  large  portion  of  the  flannels  manufactured  is  made  up  at 
once  into  shirts,  the  company  employing  60  sewing  machines  in  that  and  other  work  con- 
nected with  their  manufactures. 

There  are  three  manufactories  of  acids  and  other  chemicals  in  the  city,  which  supply  the 
assay  offices  and  mint  on  this  coast.  The  Phoenix  Oil  Works  have  a  refining  capacity  of  400 
gallons  per  day.  Mallon  &  Co.'s  glass-cutting  works  manufactured  to  the  amount  of  $6,000 
in  1866.  The  Pacific  Saw  Works  turned  out  manufactures  valued  at  over  $3,000,000.  Dana's 
neat-foot  oil  works  turned  out  33,997  pounds  of  glue  and  5,007  gallons  of  oil.  Cameron, 
Whittier  &■  Co.  made  mirrors  to  the  value  of  $18,000.  Zech  made  12  pianos  last  year,  of 
an  average  value  of  $450,  using  native  ash,  laurel,  and  other  domestic  woods.  John  Mayer 
made  two  large  organs  of  good  quality.  The  glass  manufactures  of  the  year  aggregated 
$80,000. 

There  are  1 1  extensive  flour  mills  in  the  city,  which  exported  the  first  eight  months  of  this 
year  136,958  barrels  of  flour  via  the  Isthmus  of  Panama.  Eight  mills  turned  out  last  year 
an  aggregate  of  247,708  barrels,  besides  large  quantities  of  other  meals.  Eight  saw-mills 
turned  out  8,950,000  feet  of  lumber. 

Up  to  the  present  time  the  principal  foundries  and  machine  shops  located  in  this  city  have 
turned  out  machinery  for  the  propulsion  of  1,000  ton  vessels,  stationery  engines,  batteries 
of  heavy  guns,  the  most  powerful  quartz-crushing  machinery,  saw  and  flour  mills,  and  for  a 
multiplicity  of  business  not  needed  to  mention.  With  the  exception  of  the  raw  materials 
used  for  castings  and  machinery,  the  foundries  of  the  State  have  rendered  its  people  inde- 
pendent of  other  countries  and  given  profitable  employment,  directly  and  indirectly,  to  several 
thousands  of  persons.  At  the  present  time  there  are  14  large  foundries  and  machine  shops, 
some  of  which  have  no  superiors  anywhere  in  excellence  of  work  and  adaptation  of  materials 
to  meet  the  wants  of  the, people.  During  the  year  1866  tliese  foundries,  with  some  few 
smaller  ones,  employed  1,018  men,  using  6,921  tons  pig  iron,  1,448  tons  bar  and  rod  iron, 
1,027  tons  sheet  and  boiler  iron,  and  110  tons  rivets.  Several  of  these  establishments  have 
extensive  boiler  shops  connected  with  them. 

The  three  sugar  refineries  in  this  city  have  a  capacity  nearly  double  the  local  consumption. 
One  establishment  alone  has  a  capacity  to  refine  120,000  pounds  daily.  Altogether  about  300 
men  are  employed  in  these  refineries.  Twenty  thousand  boxes  of  maccaroni  and  paste  were 
made  by  one  firm  last  year.  Another  house  made  3,000  gross  of  yeast  powders.  About 
24,000  brooms  were  manufactured.  Wooden  ware  and  box  manufacturing  is  extensive  and 
profitable.  The  new  linseed  oil  works  can  crush  4,000  pounds  seed  per  week.  Two  firms 
have  made  5,000  billiard  tables  in  this  city  in  10  years.  During  1866  they  employed  12  men 
•and  made  70  tables,  worth  $480  each. 

The  products  of  sover.al  other  manufactories  may  thus  be  condensed:  Ten  soap  establish- 
ments, 2,831,419  pounds;  three  match  factories,  250,000  gross  ;  five  tanneries,  2,400  hides, 
615  dozen  calf  and  515  kip  skins;  hose  and  belting,  6,000  feet  hose,  $7,000  worth  of  belting, 
and  400  dozen  horse  collars  ;  boots  and  shoes,  total  manufactures,  $750,000,  employing  about 
500  men  ;  type  foundry  at  the  rate  of  $20,000  per  annum  ;  24  breweries,  of  which  17  turned 
out  76,602  barrels  of  beer;  furniture  establishments  employ  over  300  men  and  turned  out 
about  .$800,000  worth  of  furniture  ;  800  cigar  makers,  employed  by  100  firms,  turn  out  nearly 
3,000,000  cigars  a  montli ;  the  clothing  manufacturers  euiploy  700  persons  and  turned  out 
last  year  $1,500,000  worth  of  goods  ;  20  firms  are  engaged  in  making  carriages  and  wagons. 

Trade  Fluctuations. — A  general  table  of  the  fluctuations  of  trade  shows  that  the  num- 
ber of  persons  in  business  in  tliis  city  has  increased  from  5,300  in  1862  to  6,942  in  1867. 
Only  the  leading  branches  of  trade  are  included  in  this  table.  Of  those  in  business  in  1862 
only  3,956  are  still  found  in  existing  trade  circles.  The  yearly  changes  among  small  dealers 
will  not  full  short  of  40  per  cent,  per  annum. 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  275 

MrxiCIPAl,  FiNANCFS.— The  total  assessment  for  IWfi-'f)?  is  $9^,700,^97.  Of  tliis  valua- 
tion §r):?,4S,'>,42l  is  assifjneil  to  roal  estate,  and  $\:\,2]A,'MCi  to  personal  property.  Tlio  total 
of  Strtte,  city,  and  county  taxes  is  $:?  lit  on  each  $U)(l.  The  amount  absolutely  collected  on 
is  much  less  than  the  aprgreg'ato  valuations  for  the  last  two  years.  In  18Gr)-'(]f)  it  was 
$"2*J,7;Ut,719  personal  af!:ainst  ,$:$9,77.'"),.')(>0  assessed,  and  .$4.'),4H(),9'24  real  estate  against 
$49.  i;?H,027  assessed  ;  in  all,  $()8,1()7,()43  collected  on  against  !ti?.'^,913,.5"27  assessed. 

The  city  expenditures  for  I8C5-'()()  were  Si, 4:^7,2^1  20,  which  .'uniiuiit  was  divided  as 
follows:  Cunent  expenses,  $916,9:54  45;  permanent  improvements,  .'|!90,99.'>  90 ;  interest, 
|^*,")(),I98  38;  reduction  of  debt,  $154,055;  old  claims,  $19,097  47.  The  expenditures  for 
181H)-T)7  are  thus  stated:  Current  expenses,  $939,285  05;  permanent  improvements, 
$ia'<.073  75;  interest,  $213,353  0(5;  reduction  of  debt,  $354,686  82;  old  claims,  $71,166  66: 
total,  $1.7(>6,565  34.     Increase  this  year,  $329,284  14. 

The  total  revenue  for  186.5-'66  was  $1,624,408  06.  That  for  ]866-'67  was  .$1,841,753  96, 
showing  an  increase  of  $217,345  90.  The  revenue  is  derived  this  year  as  follows:  Taxes, 
$1,4*^2.476  31  ;  State  and  county  licenses,  $93,901  .50  ;  municipal  licenses,  $31,762  50;  sale 
of  bonds,  $125,965  38;  other  sources,  $107,647  97. 

The  bonded  debt  aggregates  $4,748,667,  bearing  interest  at  from  6  to  10  per  cent.  The 
annual  sinking  fund  is  about  $198,500.  The  bonds  in  aid  of  the  Pacific  railroad  alone 
amount  to  $650,000,  bearing  7  per  cent,  interest. 

Climate  of  Oalifornia. — The  following  intei-esting  and  instructive  obser- 
vations on  the  climate  of  California  are  from  the  proof-sheets  of  a  forthcoming 
work  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  by  Mr.  T.  F.  Cronise,  soon  to  be  issued  by  Messrs, 
H.  H.  Bancroft  &  Co.,  of  San  Francisco  : 

The  Variety  of  Climate. — There  are  esseutiaily  two  climates  in  California,  the  land 
climate  and  the  sea  climate.  The  latter  derives  its  low  temperature  from  the  ocean,  the  water 
of  which  along  the  coast  stands  at  from  52°  to  45*^  all  the  year  round.  The  evenness  of  the 
ocean  temperature  is  owing  to  a  steady  current  from  the  north,  which  is  accompanied  also 
by  winds  in  the  same  direction  during  the  entire  summer  season,  or  rather  from  April  to 
October,  inclusive.  Almost  daily  during  this  period  a  deluge  of  cold,  damp  air,  of  the  same 
tdmi)erature  as  the  ocean  over  which  it  has  passed,  is  poured  upon  the  laud.  It  is  mostly 
laden  with  mist,  in  dense  clouds,  which  it  deposits  at  the  foot  hills  and  on  the  slopes  of  the 
highlands,  or  carries  a  short  distance  into  the  interior,  wherever  there  is  a  break  in  the  laud 
wall. 

The  land  climate  is  as  nearly  as  possible  the  opposite  in  eveiy  respect.  In  summer  and 
atuumn  it  is  hot  and  dry.  It  undergoes  various  modifications  from  the  configuratiou  of  the 
surface  of  the  earth.  Even  the  mountains,  which  retain  the  snow  till  a  late  period,  i)resent 
a  high  temperature  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  and  the  presence  of  the  snow  on  their  suniniits 
in  June  is  owing  to  the  great  mass  which  has  accumulated  ou  them  rather  than  to  cold 
weather. 

A  large  district  of  territory  lies  between  the  jurisdiction  of  the  two  climates,  and  subject  to 
their  joint  influence.  It  is  composed  chiefly  of  valleys  surrounding  the  bay  of  San  Francisco, 
and  penetrating  into  the  interior  in  every  direction.  There  is  no  climate  in  the  world  more 
delightful  than  these  valleys  enjoy,  and  no  territory  more  productive.  While  the  ocean 
prevents  the  contiguous  land  from  being  scorched  in  summer,  it  also  prevents  it  from  being 
frozen  in  winter.  Hence  ice  and  snow  are  not  common  in  the  ocean  climate.  The  dilference 
in  temperature  is  comparatively  slight  between  winter  and  summer. 

The  cold  of  winter  in  the  interior  is  not  intense,  even  on  mountain  elevations,  with  the 
exception  of  the  tier  of  counties  in  the  extreme  north.  Its  degree  depends  nuich,  however, 
on  the  altitude  of  the  locality.  The  severity  of  winter  is  due,  not  to  extreme  cold  in  any  part 
of  California,  but  to  violent  and  prolonged  snow-storms  in  one  section,  aud  cold  and  prolonged 
rains  in  the  others. 

It  is  interesting  to  cast  the  eye  over  the  map  of  the  State,  and  trace  out  climatic  modifica- 
tions as  governed  by  topography.  First,  look  at  the  long  range  of  coast,  the  slope  of  which,  as 
lar  back  as  the  first  mountan  wall,  is  under  the  control  of  the  ocean,  and  has  the  most  uniform 
of  climates.  It  is  a  narrow  strip  of  territory,  the  only  part  of  the  State  preserved  from  dessica- 
tion  ii  summer  by  daily  showers  of  mist,  and  therefore  admirably  adapted  to  dairy  purposes. 
Then  survey  the  counties  bordering  on  tlie  great  bay,  Sonoma,  Napa,  Solano,  Contra  Costa, 
Alameda,  Santa  Clara,  and  San  Mateo,  borrowing  one-half  their  climate  from  the  ocean,  and 
the  other  half  from  the  interior ;  inexhaustible  in  agriculturul  resources,  and  forming  the 
granary  of  the  Pacific.  The  Pajaro  and  some  other  valleys  further  south,  to  which  the  sea 
winds  gain  access,  belong  to  the  same  system,  aud  those  also  of  the  Sacramento  aud  San 
Joaquin,  although  in  a  lesser  degree,  being  further  removed  from  the  ocean.  Then  regard 
the  mountain  range,  with  its  countless  little  valleys,  buried  up  with  snow  in  winter,  bursting 
forth  into  a  paradise  with  the  spring,  and  converted  into  furnaces  by  the  summer's  sun,  and 
yet  luxuriant  with  all  kinds  of  delicious  fruits.  In  this  section  are  concentrated  the  mining 
interests.  Finally,  view  the  southern  section,  embracing  one-fourth  of  the  State,  removed 
alike  from  both  extremes,  which  operate  in  the  north,  controlled  neither  by  mountain  nor 


276 


EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 


ocean,  and  enjoying  the  most  genial  temperature — a  section  of  country  wanting  only  in  the 
certainty  of  winter  rains  to  make  it  an  Eden. 

Climatf,  of  San  Francisco. — The  record  of  the  climate  of  San  Francisco,  as  kept  by 
Mr.  Henry  Gibbous,  extendingfromtheautumnof  1850  to  January,  1668,  a  period  of  17  years, 
shows  the  coldest  weather  during  that  time  to  have  occurred  in  January,  1854,  when  the 
mercury  fell  as  low  as  25^.  The  coldest  noonday  for  the  same  period  was  37°.  Persons 
who  do  not  rise  early  may  see  no  ice  in  that  city  for  several  years  in  succession.  When  it 
is  cold  enough  to  preserve  ice  in  the  shade  all  day,  the  circumstance  is  noted  as  a  phenomenon. 
It  is  not  uncommon  for  the  entire  winter  to  pass  away  without  bringing  the  thermometer  down 
so  low  as  the  point  of  freezing.  In  the  year  1853,  it  fell  at  no  time  lower  than  40°,  or  8° 
above  the  freezing  point. 

The  extreme  of  heat  in  the  same  period  occurred  on  September  10  and  11, 1852,  when  the 
thermometer  reached  97°  and  98°  on  the  two  days  respectively.  This,  however,  was  entirely 
exceptional,  and  might  not  again  occur  in  half  a  centurj'.  The  air  was  dry  as  a  sirocco,  and 
had  a  curious  effect  on  the  wood-work  of  houses,  causing  a  constant  crackling  noise,  from 
the  shrinking  of  the  timber  and  the  plaster  breaking  on  the  wooden  partitions.  In  a  locality 
somewhat  exposed  to  reflected  heat  from  the  sun,  and  where  the  temperature  was  100°,  a 
thermometer  with  a  wet  bulb  fell  to  68°,  the  evaporation  reducing  it  32°. 

With  the  exception  just  noted,  the  hottest  day  in  the  17  years  was  on  the  6th  of  July,  1867, 
when  the  thermometer  stood  at  93°.  In  October,  1854,  and  in  September,  1865,  it  reached 
91° ;  and  in  July,  1855,  it  rose  once  to  90°.  Thus,  it  appears  there  were  but  six  days  in  17 
years  when  the  temperature  was  as  high  as  90°,  and  only  two  of  these  six  days  were  in  the 
summer  months. 

The  absence  of  warm  weather  in  the  summer  months  is  characteristic  of  the  coast  climate, 
and  strikes  a  stranger  forcibly.  The  most  ordinary  programme  of  this  climate  for  the  year 
is  as  follows,  beginning  with  the  rainy  season :  The  first  decided  rains  are  in  November  or 
December,  when  the  country,  after  having  been  parched  with  drought,  puts  on  the  garb  of 
spring.  In  January  the  rains  abate,  and  vegetation  advances  slowly,  with  occasional  slight 
frosts.  February  is  spring  like,  with  but  little  rain.  March  and  April  are  pleasant  and 
showery,  with  an  occasional  hot  day.  In  May  the  sea  breeze  begins,  but  does  not  give  much 
annoyance.  In  June,  just  as  warm  weather  is  about  to  set  in,  the  sea  breeze  comes  daily, 
and  keeps  down  the  temperature.  It  continues  through  Jirly  and  August,  occas.'onally 
holding  up  for  a  day  or  two,  and  pennitting  the  sun  to  heat  the  air  to  the  sweating  point. 
In  September  the  sea  wind  moderates,  and  there  is  a  slight  taste  of  summer,  which  is  pro- 
longed into  the  next  mouth.  The  pleasant  weather  often  lingers  in  the  lap  of  winter,  and  is 
interrupted  only  by  the  rains  of  November  or  December. 

By  running  the  eye  over  the  following  table,  a  general  idea  can  be  gained  of  the  coast 
climate  as  regards  temperature.  The  first  column  represents  the  average  temperature  of 
each  month  at  sunrise,  for  17  years  ;  the  second  at  noon,  and  the  third  is  the  mean  of  the  other 
two: 


6 

a 

3 

o 

o 

a 

oi 

1 

1 

a 

Months. 

'3 

"3 

a 
a 

0 

Months. 

C3 

1 

3 

S 

S 

S 

S 

r3 

^ 

0 

0 

0 

O 

o 

o 

44 

56. 

50. 

53. 

67 

60 

48. 

60. 

5.3.5 

September 

53.5 

69.5 

61. 

48. 
49. 
50. 
51. 
5-2. 

63. 
64. 
04. 

ee. 

07. 

55.5 

57. 

57. 

59.5 

59.5 

October 

53. 
49. 
45. 

68. 
62. 
55. 

60.5 

55.5 

May 

50. 

July 

49.5 

C3.7 

56.6 

Observe  in  the  tabic  the  regular  increase  from  January  to  September,  and  the  rapid  decrease 
from  October  to  Dccembcir;  nine  mouths  of  increase  aud  two  of  decrease.  Notice,  also,  the 
uniform  increase  of  the  night  temperature  as  represented  in  the  first  column,  aud  the  irregu- 
larity in  the  uoouday  increase,  the  sea-breeze  arresting  it  in  May,  and  the  sun  giving  it  an 
xipward  impulse  in  June,  bcfure  the  sea  wind  has  gained  undisputed  control. 

Mi.AN  Annu.\l  Tkmi'EUATURK. — The  mean  annual  temperature  at  San  Francisco  is  56.6, 
which  may  lio  .set  down  as  the  mean  of  the  coast  aud  bay  climate.  As  we  recede  from  the 
ocean,  llie  days  arc  warmer  and  the  nights  colder,  the  sun.  being  the  great  disturber  of 
lempcrature,  and  the  ocean  the  great  equalizer.  But  the  increase  of  the  day  corresponds  so 
nearly  with  the  diniinutiou  of  the  high  temperature,  that  the  mean  varies  but  little  within 
the  range  of  the  sea  breeze. 

Washington  and  Richmond,  nearly  in  the;  same  latitude  as  San  Francisco,  have  a  mean 
of  54  or  54jJ,  two  degrees  colder  than  the  latter.     This  appears,  at  first  sight,  to  be  a  small 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


277 


difference ;  but  its  value  is  maile  evident  by  reflecting  that  it  is  a  difference  for  every  day  in 
the  year — each  day  of  the  year  in  San  I'raucisco,  from  January  to  December,  having  an 
average  of  two  degrees  higher  than  the  corresponding  day  on  tlie  Atlantic  border.  Cold  as 
our  summers  are  in  proportion  to  those  in  the  east,  it  appears  that  the  winters  are  warmer, 
in  still  greater  proportion. 

In  the  Atlantic  States  the  moan  arinnal  temperature  diminishes  in  going  northward  about 
one  degree  for  every  degree  of  latitude.  This  is  the  general  rule  in  all  climates.  But  the 
climate  of  California  presents  an  extraordinary  anomaly  in  this  respect.  Along  the  coast, 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  river  to  Monterey,  a  range  of  nine  degrees  of  latitude,  the 
mean  temperature  varies  but  little — not  more  tlian  three  or  four  degrees  at  most;  and  even 
this  ditference  does  not  correspond  exactly  with  the  difference  of  latitude.  On  the  other 
band,  the  interior  climate  varies  indelinitely,  every  valley  having  a  climate  of  its  own.  The 
summers,  however,  are  generally  hotter  in  the  north.  One  might  start  from  Los  Angeles, 
near  the  south  line  of  the  State,  in  summer,  and  travel  northward,  inland,  "500  or  600  miles, 
and  tind  it  growiug  hotter  every  day;  and  he  might  go  in  a  southeasterly  course  less  than 
half  that  distance,  and  arriving  at  Fort  Yuma,  on  the  Colorado,  he  would  find  one  of  the 
hottest  places  in  the  world. 

The  sudden  fluctuations  of  temperature,  incident  to  the  climate  of  the  Atlantic  States,  are 
unknown  in  California.  We  have  none  of  those  angry  outbreaks  from  the  northwest,  which 
change  summer  to  winter  in  a  few  hours.  The  sea  breeze  is  chilling  enough,  especially 
when  it  comes  in  suddenly  to  reassert  its  sway,  after  one  of  the  occasional  warm  days  of  sum- 
mer.   But  the  sea  breeze  can  never  bring  the  thermometer  down  below  52°. 

In  the  summer  months  there  is  scarcely  any  fall  of  temperature  through  the  night  in  the 
coast  climate.  The  early  morning  is  sometimes  clear,  sometimes  cloudy,  but  always  calm. 
A  windy  morning  in  summer  is  u  common  at  San  Francisco.  A  few  hours  after  sunrise  the 
clouds  break  away  and  vanish,  and  the  sun  shines  forth  cheerfully  and  delightfully;  not  a 
breath  of  air  stirring.  Towards  noon,  or  a  little  after,  the  sea  breeze  sets  in,  and  the  weather 
is  completely  changed.  From  65°  degrees  the  mercury  drops  to  53°  or  54°  long  before  sun- 
set, and  »t  that  point  it  remains  almost  motionless  till  the  next  morning.  This  is  the  order 
of  things  in  three  days  out  of  four  in  June,  July,  and  August. 

In  the  climate  of  the  coast  the  nights  are  never  uncomfortably  warm.  The  extreme  heat 
at  10  p.  ra.  at  San  Francisco,  for  17  years,  was  75°.  The  thermometer  reached  this  point  ou 
three  different  nights ;  on  two  nights  it  reached  75°,  on  four  nights  73°,  on  two  nights  72°, 
and  on  tive  nights  70° — making  only  16  evenings  in  17  years  when  it  was  warm  enough  at 
bed-time  to  sit  out  of  doors  with  thin  clothing.  The  warmest  morning  in  17  years  was  69°. 
These  facts  have  special  interest  in  relation  to  sleep. 

Though  the  nights  in  the  interior  are  not  so  uniformly  cool,  yet  there  are  few  localities, 
even  in  tbe  valleys,  where  they  are  too  warm  for  sleeping,  even  though  the  day  temperature 
may  have  reached  100°.  This  is  a  remarkable  feature  of  the  climate  of  the  Pacific  States, 
and  it  has  an  important  bearing  on  the  health,  vigor,  and  character  of  the  population. 

In  the  southeastern  corner  of  the  State  is  a  section  having  a  climate  of  its  own.  It  is 
known  as  the  Colorado  desert,  and  is  comparatively  barrren  of  vegetation,  owing  to  the 
small  quantity  of  rain  which  falls  there.  The  mean  temperature  of  Fort  Yuma,  though  not 
exactly  in  the  desert,  is,  in  the  month  of  July,  upwards  of  100°  at  noon,  and  90°  at  9  p.  m. 
In  contrast  with  this,  is  the  winter  climate  of  Yreka,  near  the  extreme  northwest  corner  of 
the  State,  and  representing  a  small  alpine  section  bordering  on  Oregon.  During  the  stormy 
we^ithcr  of  January,  1868,  when  the  thermometer  at  Marysville  and  other  localities  in  the 
north  were  telegraphed  as  ranging  from  25°  to  35°,  at  8  a.  m.,  the  despatches  from  Yreka 
placed  it  below  zero  day  after  day,  and  sometimes  10°  or  12°  below. 

We  will  conclude  the  subject  of  temperature  with  a  table,  representing  the  mean  of  the 
several  seasons  at  a  number  of  prominent  points  in  California,  and  also  further  northward. 
The  first  column  gives  the  temperature  of  the  spring  months,  March,  April,  and  May;  and 
so  on,  the  other  seasons  are  arranged.     The  last  column  is  the  mean  annual  temperature. 


Localities. 

Spring. 

Summer. 

Autumn. 

Winter. 

Year. 

San  Francisco 

o 
56. .') 
56.0 
56.5 
54.0 
6fl.O 
72. 0 
52.0 
52.0 
53.0 
51.0 
49.0 

o 
60.0 
6.59 
67.0 
59.0 
71.0 
90.0 
57.5 
6a.  0 
70.5 
61.5 
63.0 

0 

59.0 
61.0 
00.5 
57.0 
64.5 
75.5 
5.-).  0 
^.0 
52.0 
54.0 
51.5 

o 
51.0 
46.5 
49.0 
51.0 
52.5 
57.0 
4:).  5 
47.  5 
35.5 
42.  5 
39.5 

o 
56.6 

5S.  0 

58.0 

55.5 

62.0 

73.5 

Humboldt  Bay* 

51.5 

Port  Off ord 

53.5 

53.0 

52.0 

Fort  Steilacoom,  W.  T 

51.0 

'  The  figures  for  these  localities  are  probably  too  low. 


278  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

There  is  this  difference  between  the  summer  in  the  interior  of  California  and  the  Atlantic 
States,  that  in  the  former  it  is  unbroken  by  the  showers  and  storms  which  in  other  regions 
temper  the  heat  and  give  variety  to  the  climate.  From  tlie  beginning  of  June  until  Novem- 
ber the  sky  is  mostly  unclouded,  and  the  sun  shines  out  brightly  the  whole  day. 

The  Annu.aL  Rains. — In  the  entire  absence  of  rain  during  one  portion  of  the  year,  and 
its  restriction  to  another  portion,  California  has  but  one  climate.  There  is  this  difference, 
however,  between  one  part  and  another,  that  the  rain  commences  sooner  and  continues  later 
in  the  north,  and  that  both  the  quantity  of  the  rain  and  the  duration  of  the  rainy  season 
diminish  on  approaching  the  southern  part  of  the  State,  or  rather  on  receding  from  the  moun- 
tainous section.  The  rain  year  of  California  does  not  conform  to  the  calendar  year,  but 
extends  from  summer  to  summer,  embracing  the  latter  part  of  one  year  and  the  former  part 
of  the  year  ensuing.  The  natural  division  is  in  July  or  August — say  the  first  of  August. 
The  calendar  year  fails  to  represent  properly  either  a  dry  winter  or  a  rainy  one.  Thus,  the 
smallest  quantity*of  rain  in  any  one  of  the  17  calendar  years  was  10.50  inches,  in  1865,  while 
the  climatic  year  1850-51  had  but  7.12  inches,  and  ]863-'<j4,  8.49.  On  the  other  hand,  the 
calendar  year  1865  had  but  10.50  inches,  or  half  the  average  supply,  from  which  it  would  be 
inferred  that  one,  at  least,  of  the  two  seasons  in  which  it  enters  was  dry ;  whereas,  by  refer- 
ence to  the  table,  it  appears  that  both  of  these  seasons  had  the  full  supply,  being,  a  fraction 
over  21  inches.  It  so  transpired  that  the  rain  of  one  season  was  mainly  in  the  latter  part  of 
1864,  and  that  of  the  latter  season  in  the  early  part  of  1866,  leaving  the  intervening  calendar 
year  deficient. 

In  seasons  of  scanty  rains  the  deficiency  is  not  confined  to  certain  districts,  as  in  the 
Atlantic  States,  but  it  is  general.  The  annual  supply,  however,  varies  greatly  in  different 
sections.  Taking  the  gauge  at  San  Francisco  as  a  basis,  very  nearly  the  same  quantity  falls 
in  the  valleys  surrounding  the  bay,  and  also  in  the  Sacramento  valley  as  far  north  as  the 
capital.  Speaking  more  precisely,  the  quantity  in  Sonoma  and  Napa  counties  is  greater,  and 
in  Santa  Clara,  south  of  the  ba_y,  rather  less,  than  at  San  Francisco.  Proceeding  southward, 
it  diminishes  rapidly,  the  rain-fall  at  Los  Angeles  and  San  Diego  being  only  one-half  that  of 
the  bay.  In  the  north  and  northeast,  among  the  Sierras,  it  is  generally  much  greater,  being 
three  or  four  times  as  much  in  some  localities. 

In  San  Francisco  [according  to  a  table  which  we  cannot  conveniently  reproduce]  the  rains 
of  each  month,  during  a  period  of  17  years,  averaged  as  follows,  in  inches  and  fractions  of 
inches:  January,  4.51;  February,  3.08;  March,  2.76;  April,  1.74;  May,  .82;  June,  .05; 
July,  .02;  August,  .01;  September,  .O'J;  October,  .57;   November,  2.74;  December,  5.37. 

The  greatest  quantity  of  rain  for  any  one  month,  as  the  table  shows,  was  18.14  inches,  in 
January,  1862 — a  winter  memorable  on  account  of  destructive  floo.ls  on  the  Pacific  slope. 
The  greatest  quantity  in  any  one  month  in  eastern  Pennsylvania,  during  a  period  of  30  years, 
was  13  inches;  and  this  was  in  one  of  the  summer  months.  So  much  as  this  never  falls  in 
a  winter  month  in  the  Atlantic  States.  For  one  season  of  excessive  drought  there  have  been 
two  of  excessive  rain.  No  two  seasons  in  succession  have  given  as  much  rain  as  1866-'67 
and  1867-'68. 

The  rains  of  each  season  are  exhibited  in  the  following  table,  in  juxtaposition  with  the 
rains  of  each  year : 


Season.  Rain. 

1850-'51 11.12 

1851-'52 18.00 

1852-53 33.46 

1853-'54 22.80 

1854-'55 24.10 

1655-56 21.13 

1856-57 19.90 

18.57-'58 19.05 

1858-'59 19.76 

1859-'60 17.10 

1860-'6l 14.54 

1861-'62 38.04 

1862-63 15.19 

1863-'64  8.49 

1864-'65 21.30 

1865-'66 21.19 

1860-'67 32.22 

Mean 20.79 


Year.  Rain. 

1851 15.12 

1852 25.60 

1853 19.03 

1854 22.12 

18.W 27.8fl 

1£56 22. 01 

1857 ...20.55 

1S58 19.65 

1859 18.03 

1800 15.15 

1861 18.43 

1862 31.05 

1863 16.63 

1864 13.05 

18C5 10.30 

1866 33.98 

1867 33. 00 

Mean 21. 62 


It  appears  that  December  is  the  month  of  greatest  rain.  The  rainy  tendency  reaches  its 
climax  abont  Christmas,  and  then  diminishes  gradually  until  the  termination  of  the  season 
of  rain,  towards  the  latter  end  of  May.  June,  July,  August,  and  September  are  dry,  with 
exceptions  so  light  as  scarcely  to  deserve  notice,  only  2.50  inches  having  fallen  in  these  four 
months  collectively  in  17  years. 

In  almost  every  winter  there  are  two  rainy  periods,  with  a  drier  period  interposed,  showing 
an  analogy  to  the  earlier  and  later  rains  of  Palestine  and  other  oriental  countries.  The  month 
of  February  is  the  most  frequent  representative  of  the  dry  period  ;  but  the  spring  rains, 
which  sometimes  commence  in  this  month,  and  other  heavy  rains  which  occasionally  fall, 
swell  the  aggregate  so  as  to  prevent  the  exhibition  of  a  deficiency  in  the  table. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  279 

In  speaking  of  the  "niiiiy  season,"  strnnpors  will  not  infer  that  rain  is  perpctnal,  ornearly 
so.  duvin<x  that  time.  The  term  is  enipKiyed  only  t^*  eontrast  with  tlio  dry  season,  and  it 
implies  the  possibility  rather  than  the  actual  occnrrenee  of  rain.  In  more  than  half  the  winter 
there  is  not  a  drop  beyond  the  necessities  of  ao-riculturo,  and  even  in  the  seasons  of  most 
rain  much  very  pleasant  weather  is  interspersed.  If  the  winter  be  not  extraordinary,  it  is 
generally  regarded  as  the  most  pleasant  season  in  the  year.  In  the  intervals  of  rain  it  is 
brifjht,  sunny,  and  calm.  It  is  sprinij  rather  than  winter.  The  prass  starts  as  soon  as  the 
soil  is  wet.  At  Christmas  nature  wears  her  green  uniform  almost  throu{]^hout  the  entire  State, 
and  in  February  and  March  it  is  set  with  floral  jewels.  The  blossoms  increase  in  variety 
and  priifusion  imtil  April,  when  they  are  so  abundant  in  many  places  as  to  show  distinctly 
the  yellow  carpetiu<!f  on  hills  five  miles  distant. 

There  is  great  irregularity  in  the  time  of  the  commencement  of  the  rainy  season.  It  never 
sets  in  before  November,  and  sometimes  not  till  the  latter  part  of  December.  In  the  northern 
section  the  rains  commence  earlier  than  at  San  Francisco,  and  in  the  southern  section  later. 
The  spring  rains,  which  are  of  immense  importance  to  agriculture,  rarely  fail.  March  is  one 
of  the  surest  mouths  in  this  respect.  April  often  gives  a  copious  supply.  There  is  a  remarka- 
ble tendency  to  rain  about  the  20th  of  May,  and  a  complete  cessation  soon  afterwards.  It 
is  a  striking  feature  of  the  climate,  that  when  the  weather  puts  on  its  rainy  habit,  the  rain  is 
ai)t  to  continue  every  day  for  one  or  two  weeks,  and  then  an  interval  may  ensue  Avithout  a 
drop  for  several  weeks. 

The  rains  of  California  are  tropical  in  one  respect,  being  showery,  and  not  often  regularly 
continuous  for  many  hours.  The  monotony  of  an  easterly  storm,  such  as  the  Atlantic  climate 
furnishes,  is  almost  unknown  here.  The  sun  breaks  forth  frequently  in  the  midst  of  a  shower, 
and  directly  the  sky  is  almost  clear.  Presently,  when  it  is  least  expected,  the  rain  is  heard 
on  the  roof  with  the  suddenness  of  a  shower-bath. 

The  night  is  more  favorable  to  rain  than  the  day.  No  matter  how  dense  the  clouds,  how 
fair  the  wind,  how  resolute  the  barometer  in  its  promise  of  falling  weather,  the  sun  rarely 
fails  to  break  up  the  arrangement  before  noon,  and  to  tumble  the  clouds  into  confused  masses 
or  dissipate  them  altogether.  But  before  night,  or  during  the  night,  the  clouds  resume  their 
function. 

The  prevailing  direction  of  the  cloud-current  is  from  south  to  west,  and  the  cloud  supply- 
ing the  rain  is  mostly  of  the  cumulo-stratus  or  nimbus  form,  and  quite  low  in  the  sky. 
what  is  singular,  the  rain  begins  most  frequently  to  the  northward,  although  the  cloud  comes 
from  the  south.  The  horizon  in  the  south  may  be  entirely  clear  under  these  circumstances, 
the  cloud  forming  id  view,  and  growing  denser  and  denser  in  its  northward  travel,  until  it 
precipitates  the  rain. 

The  following  table  exhibits  the  mean  quantity  of  rain  falling  at  different  stations,  and  the 
number  of  years  on  which  the  mean  is  computed.  The  stations  are  arranged  in  the  order  of 
their  latitude,  beginning  with  Fort  Yuma  and  San  Diego,  which  are  about  on  the  same 
parallel : 

Localities.  Term.  Mean. 

Fort  Yuma Four  years.  3.24 

San  Diego Three  years.  10.43 

Monterey Four  years.  12. 20 

Stockton Four  years.  15. 10 

San  Francisco Seventeen  years.  20. 79 

Benicia Eight  years.  22. 86 

Sacramento Twelve  years.  18.23 

Placerville 18(il-'62.  86.00 

Placerville 1862-'63.  26.00 

South  Yuba ]8r)l-'62.  109.00 

South  Yuba 18tiG-'(i7,  81.56 

Red  Dog,  Nevada  county Three  years.  64.  00 

Fort  Jones Three  years.  16. 77 

Hoopa  valley,  Klamath  county lH(il-'6:^.  129.15 

Port  Orford Four  years.  71.63 

Astoria,  Oregon One  and  a  half  year.    86.  35 

Dalles,  Oregon Two  years.  14.  32 

Fort  Steilacoom,  Washington  Territory Five  years.  61. 75 

A  comparison  with  the  Atlantic  slope  presents  a  striking  contrast.  The  smallest  amount 
of  rain  that  falls  in  one  year,  in  any  locality  on  the  eastern  side,  say  20  inches,  is  at  least 
equal  to  the  average  annual  supply  in  the  great  grain-growing  valleys  of  California;  while, 
on  the  other  hand,  no  locality  on  the  eastern  side,  until  you  reach  the  tropical  latitude  of 
Florida,  approaches  the  maximum  of  the  Pacific  sloj)e.  Thus  California,  with  a  range  of  10 
degrees  of  latitude,  has  a  minimum  of  3^  inches  at  Fort  Yuma,  with  a  maximum  exceeding 
100  inches  on  the  Sierras ;  while  the  Atlantic  slope,  with  upwards  of  20  degrees  of  latitude, 
and  an  expanse  of  territory  vastly  greater,  with  mountainous  elevations  of  considerable 
height,  presents  a  rciuLmum  of  20  inches  with  the  same  maximum  as  California. 


280  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

To  make  the  contrast  more  striking  it  may  be  added  that  the  annual  supply  of  rain  has  a 
greater  range  in  California,  in  a  distance  of  50  miles  from  Sacramento  City,  than  on  the 
Atlantic  slope,  from  Maine  to  Florida.  Two  or  three  times  as  much  rain  may  fall  in  a  single 
night  in  the  mountains  of  California  as  in  the  entire  year  in  the  southeastern  corner  of  trhe 
State. 

The  enormous  quantity  of  129  inches,  at  Hoopa  valley,  is  stated  on  the  authority  of  Dr. 
Kirkpatrick,  of  the  United  States  array.  In  general,  such  extreme  results  are  to  be  accepted 
with  caution.  The  gauge  may  not  have  been  fairly  exposed,  or  it  may  have  been  wrongly 
gi'aduatcd.  But  Dr.  Kirkpatrick  gives,  in  detail,  the  supply  for  each  of  three  months,  which 
seems  to  confirm  his  report:  November,  44.10  inches;  December,  23.79  inches;  January, 
30.95  inches.  An  observer  on  the  South  Yuba,  Nevada  county,  reports  41.95  inches  as  fall- 
ing there  in  the  month  of  December,  1867.  Instead  of  being  surprised  at  the  floods  in  the 
Sacramento  valley,  we  may  wonder  what  becomes  of  so  much  water. 

It  is  worthy  of  note  that  Hoopa  valley  is  but  about  40  miles  west  of  Fort  Jones,  where 
the  annual  supply  is  set  down  as  16.77  inches.  Both  places  are  on  the  northern  border  of 
the  State,  among  the  Coast  mountains,  and  remote  from  the  ocean. 

In  reference  to  the  climate  of  California  and  its  effect  upon  diseases  of  the  lungs, 
Lorin  Blodget  says : 

In  California  the  proportion  of  cases  of  this  class  has  been  given  imperfectly  for  two  prints, 
on  the  authority  of  Dr.  Hatch.  Three  years  at  Sacramento,  which  would  represent  the 
average  of  Upper  California  quite  correctly,  give  113  deaths  in  a  total  of  1,251,  or  90.03  per 
1,000,  but  of  this  he  remarks  :  "  Certain  it  is,  however,  that  few  of  the  cases  of  consumptive 
diseases  hitherto  met  with  in  the  valley  have  originated  here.  In  most  if  not  all  the  instances 
the  disease  has  been  implanted  before  reaching  the  country,  and  the  most  that  can  be  said  is, 
that  it  has  not  been  benefited  by  the  change.  Of  admissions  to  the  city  hospital,  San  Fran- 
cisco, for  nearly  two  years,  August  7,  1851,  to  July  1,  1853,  there  were  84  in  a  total  of  1,870 
belonging  to  the  respiratory  class.  Of  these  but  11  were  of  consumption — 45  per  1,000  of 
all,  and  5. 8  1,000  of  consumption.  It  is  believed  that  the  cases  of  all  diseases  of  this  class 
originating  in  California  will  not  reach  four  per  cent,  on  the  number  of  deaths,  and  will  thus 
stand  at  less  than  one-third  of  the  number  of  the  eastern  States.  (Climatology  of  the  United 
States,  p.  475.) 


PRINCIPAL  ROUTES  THROUGH  CALIFORNIA. 

Tables  of  distances,  Jares,  and  freights* 

STEAM   NAVIGATION— INLAND   SERVICE. 

San  Francisco  to  Sacramento,  125  miles. — Steamer  Chrysopolis,  1,300  tons,  and  steamer 
Yosemite,  1,100  tons,  daily,  at  4  p.  m. ;  returning,  leave  Sacramento  at  2  p.  m.  Through 
fare,  $4  and  $5 ;  to  Bcnicia,  $2 ;  to  Rio  Vista,  $3.     Through  freight,  $3  per  ton. 

San  Francisco  to  Stockton,  127  miles. — Steamer  Julia,  600  tons,  and  steamer  Cornelia,  600 
tons,  daily,  at  4  p.  m. ;  returning,  leave  Stockton  at  4  p.  m.  Fare,  $4  and  $5.  Freight, 
$2  50  and  $3  per  ton. 

Sacramento  to  Mnrysville,  A^  miles. — Steamers  Flora  and  Governor  Dana,  daily,  at  7  a.m.; 
returning,  leave  Marysville  at  7  a.  m.     Fare,  $4.     Freight,  $5  per  ton. 

Sacramento  to  Red  Bluff,  105  miles. — Steamers  Gem  and  Lark,  every  Saturday  morning. 
Fare,  $10.     Freight,  $17  per  ton. 

San  Francisco  to  Napa,  47  miles,  via  Vallejo  and  Mare  Island. — Steamer  Amelia,  .summer, 
daily,  at  9  a.  m. ;  winter,  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday,  at  10  a.  m.  Fare  to  Napa,  $3; 
to  Vallejo  and  Mare  Ishind,  $2.     Freight,  $2  50  per  ton ;  grain  from  Vallejo,  $1  per  ton. 

San  Francisco  to  Suisun,  40  miles,  via  Benicia. — Steamer  Paul  Pry,  Tuesday,  Thuisday, 
and  Saturday.     Fare,  $3  ;  to  Benicia,  $2. 

*  Compiled  from  Holdredge's  "  Guide-book  of  the  Pacific,"  and  other  authorities. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 


281 


Tables  of  distances,  fares,  and  freights — Continued. 


CENTRAL  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 

SAN  FRANCISCO  AND  SAN  JOSfi  RAILROAD. 

Stations. 

Stations. 

o  o 
*-  o 

s  p 
^  a 

©  6 

■^  a 

M    03 

San  Francisco      .    . 

$0  70 
I  50 

1  80 

2  20 

2  50 

3  10 

3  60 

4  30 

5  50 

$1  05 
2  25 

2  70 

3  30 

3  75 

4  65 

5  40 

6  45 
8  25 

Mission  . ...... . 

.$0  20 
25 

liniiinnn's 

Benial 

35 

50 

Pino 

60 

Newcastle ........... 

12-Mile  Farm   

70 

Auburn 

Sau  Bruno 

$0  40 
45 
50 
65 
75 

75 

Clipper  Gap 

17-Mile  House 

90 

Colfax 

1  00 

Cisco 

1  25 

Rpclwood  City  ... 

1  50 

MenloPark 

]  70 

Mayfield 

1  80 

Mountain  View 

1  05 
]   15 
1  25 
I  25 

2  10 

Lawrence's 

2  25 
2  40 

2  50 

SACRAMENTO   TO   STOCKTON. 


Stations.    , 


Buckner's  .. 
Hicksville  . . 

Liberty 

Woodbridge 
Stockton  ... 


Distance.      Fare 


14 

$2  00 

22 

3  00 

29 

3  50 

35 

4  00 

50 

5  00 

Freight. 


Steamers  run  at  irregular  intervals  between  Sacramento  and  Stockton,  carrying  freight 
only. 


SACRA.MENTO   TO   NAPA. 


Stations. 

Distance. 

Fare. 

Freight. 

Solano  House 

17 
25 
35 
47 
51 
61 
65 

'"$2'66" 

'"'4 '66' 

Through  freight,  5  cents  per 
pound. 

Silvey  ville 

Vacaville 

Suisun 

Rockville 

Suscol 

Napa 

Connect  at  Suisun  with  stages  for  Benicia,  and  at  Napa  with  Healdsburg  with  stages,  and 
line  for  St.  Helena  and  Calistoga. 


282  KESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

Tables  of  distances,  fares,  and  freights — Continued. 


SACRAJIENTO   TO   KNIGHT'S   LANDING. 


Stations. 

Distance. 

Fare. 

Freight. 

Woodland . .. . . 

20 
25 
35 

$1  50 

2  00 

3  00 

Through  by  team,  25  cents  per 
cwt. 

Cucheville .. . .. 

Kniffht's  Landing . . 

The  Buckeye  and  Cache  Creek  mail  branches  off  at  Woodland. 


STOCKTON  TO  CAMPO  SECO. 


Stations. 


Waterloo 

Locust  Shade 

Lockeford 

Poland's 

Camanche  — 
Poverty  Bar  . 
Campo  Seco  . 


Distance. 

Fare. 

8 

$1  00 

14 

1  50 

18 

2  00 

20 

2  00 

28 

3  00 

30 

3  00 

38 

4  00 

Freight. 


Through  freight,  4  cents  per 
pound. 


Connect  at  Campo  Seco  with  stages  for  lone  City,  via  Winter's  Bar,  Lancha  Plana,  and 
Buena  Vista.    Distance,  fifteen  miles  ;  fare,  $2. 


STOCKTON  TO  COPPEROPOLIS. 


Stations. 


Twelve-Mile  House 

Farmington 

Rock  Creek 

Shafer's 

Telegraph  City 

Copperopolis 


Distance. 

Fare. 

12 

$2  00 

16 

2  50 

21 

3  00 

28 

4  00 

29 

4  00 

36 

5  00 

Freight. 


Stage,  4  cts.  per  pound ;  team, 
•J  cent  to  Telegraph  City; 
stage,  4  cents  per  pound ; 
team,  f  cent  to  Stockton. 


STOCKTON  TO  SAN  ANDREAS. 


Stations. 


Fifteon-Milo  House 

Gorham 

Spring  Valley 

San  Andreas 


Distance. 


15 


37 
45 


Fare. 


$2  00 


3  50 
5  00 


Freight. 


Through  by  express,  10  cents 
per  pound ;  team,  1  cent  per 
pound. 


Connect  with  stage  at  Mokelumne  Hill. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 


283 


Tables  qf  distances,  fares,  and  freights — Continued. 

MAKYSVILLE  TO   LA  PORTE. 


Stations. 


Distance. 


Fare. 


Freight. 


Orovillo,  via  Northern  railroad 

Forbestown 

Clipper  Mills 

Strawberry  Valley 

Eagleville 

La  Porte 


28 
48 
56 
60 
62 
74 


12  00 


By  team,  $15  per  ton. 


10  00 


Connect  at  La  Porte  with  stages  for  Gibsonville. 

Clipper  Mills  is  situated  near  the  eastern  edge  of  Butte  county,  within  one  quarter  of  a 
mile  of  the  Yuba  county  line,  and  in  one  of  the  best  surgar-pine  sections  of  the  State, 
from  which  large  quantities  of  clear  lumber  are  made  for  the  San  Francisco  market. 


MARYSVILLE  TO  FORBESTOWN. 


Stations. 


Distance. 


Fare. 


Freight. 


Sewalls ^ 

Bangor 

Miller's  Ranch 
Brownsville... 
Forbestown . . . 


12 

$1  50 

20 

2  50 

24 

3  00 

32 

4  00 

37 

5  00 

Connect  at  Forbestown  with  stages  for  La  Porte. 

"      MARYSVILLE  TO  DOVVNIEVILLE. 


Stations. 


Brown's  Valley 
Foster's  Bar  ... 
Camptonville  .. 
Goodyear's  Bar. 
Downieville  . . . 


Distance. 


12 

36 
41 

57 

62 


Fare, 


$1  00 


5  00 

9  00 

10  00 


Freight. 


Express,  2  cents  per  ponnd. 

6  cents  per  pound. 

9  cents  per  pound. 

10  cents  per  poun^. 


MARYSVILLE  TO  NORTH  SAN  JUAN. 


Stations. 

Distance. 

Fare. 

Freight. 

Empire  Ranch 

16 
30 
32 
34 
37 

$2  00 
3  00 

3  50 

4  00 

5  00 

By  express,  in  summer,  i  to  f 
cent  per  pound ;  in  winter, 
1  to  li  cents  per  pound. 

French  Coral 

Birchville 

Swectland 

North  San  Juan 

^                

Freight  from  Lincoln,  35  miles  distant,  to  North  San  Juan,  in  summer,  f  to  1  cent  per 
pound ;  in  winter,  U  to  2  cents  per  pound. 
Connect  at  North  San  Juan  with  North  Bloomfield,  Forest  City,  and  Nevada  stages. 


284 


RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 


Tallies  of  distances,  fares,  ond  freiglits — Continued. 

OAKLAND  TO  SOMERVILLE. 


Stations. 


Distance. 


Fare. 

$1  00 

1  50 

2  00 
2  50 

2  75 

3  00 

Freight. 


Lafayette 

*Walnut  Creek 

tPacheco  

Clayton 

Carbondale . . . 
tSomerville  . . . 


12 
16 
21 
30 
33 
35 


■  Connect  with  Danville  stages. 


t  Connect  with  Martinez  stages.  |  Connect  with  Antioch  stagfes. 


WALNUT  CREEK  TO  DANVILLE. 


Stations. 

Distance. 

Fare. 

Freight. 

Alamo 

3 

7 

$0  50 
75 

Danville 

ANTIOCI 

I  TO  SOMEKSVILLE. 

Stations. 

Distance. 

Fare. 

Freight. 

Somersville  .. 

6 

$0  50 

$4  per  ton. 

Connect  at  Antioch  with  Stockton  boats. 

OAKLAND  TO   SAN  JOSfe. 


Stations. 


Distance. 

Fare. 

3 

$0  50 

9 

75 

12 

1  00 

17 

1  00 

21 

2  00 

26 

2  00 

30 

2  00 

42 

2  50 

Freight. 


San  Antonio  . . 
San  Leandro.. 
San  Lorenzo  .. 

Alvarado  

Centreville . . . . 

Mission 

Warm  Springs 
San  Jos6 


1  cent  per  pound. 
1  cent  per  pound. 
1  ceut  per  pound. 

1  cent  per  pound. 

2  cents  per  pound. 
2  cents  per  pound. 
2  cents  per  pound. 
2^  cents  per  pound. 


SAN   JOSfc   TO   ALMADEN   MINES. 

Stations. 

Distance. 

Fare. 

Froight, 

Mines .- 

12 

$1  00 

WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 


285 


Tables  of  distances,  fares,  and  freights — Continued. 

SAN  JOSf:  TO  LOS  ANGELES. 


Stations. 


Niitividad 

IJurus's 

Saliuas 

Cock's 

Jolone 

Plieto 

Hot  Sprinps 

Sail  Luis  Obispo  . 

Foxen's 

Santa  Juez 

Santa  Barbara  

San  Buenaventura 

Las  Posio 

Mountain  Station. 

Lone  Station 

Los  AujTcles 


Distance. 


52 

62 
82 
108 
120 
132 
166 
190 
240 
265 
310 
342 
362 
382 
402 
418 


Fare. 


$4  50 
6  00 
8  00 

11  00 

12  00 
14  00 
16  00 

18  00 

19  00 

20  00 
20  00 
23  00 

25  00 

26  00 

27  00 

28  00 


FreiffLt. 


4^  cents  per  pound. 
6  cents  per  pound. 
8  cents  per  pound. 

11  cents  per  pound. 

12  cents  per  pound. 
14  cents  per  pound. 
16  cents  per  pound. 

18  cents  per  pound. 

19  cents  per  pound. 

20  cents  per  pound. 
20  cents  per  pound. 
23  cents  per  pound. 

25  cents  per  pound. 

26  cents  per  pound. 

27  cents  per  pound. 

28  cents  per  pound. 


Connect  with  stages  for  San  Pedro,  San  Diego,  San  Bernardino,  and  Clear  Lake. 
SAN  JOSE  TO   SOUTH  SAN  JUAN. 


Stations. 

Distance. 

Fare. 

Freight. 

Fifteen-Mile  House 

15 
21 

$1  00 
1  50 

1  cent  per  pound. 
IJ  cent  per  pound. 

Twenty-one-Mile  House  - . . 

Burnett's 

Gilroy 

30 
42 

2  66 

3  00 

2  cents  per  pound. 

3  cents  per  pound. 

San  Juan 

Connect  at  San  Juan  with  stages  for  Watsonville,  Saliuas,  and  Monterey. 

SAN  JOSt:  TO  VISALIA. 


Stations. 


Hallenbeck's, 

San  Luis 

Lone  Willow , 

Temple's 

Firebaum's  .. 
Fresno  City 
Elk  Horn  ... 
King's  River 
Cross  Creek. 
Visalia 


Distance. 

Fare. 

50 

§5  00 

66 

7  00 

84 

9  00 

98 

11  00 

no 

14  00 

128 

17  00 

150 

20  00 

168 

21  00 

180 

23  00 

192 

25  00 

Freight. 


5  cents  per  pound. 
7  cents  per  pound. 
9  cents  per  pound. 
1 1  cents  per  pound. 
14  cents  per  pound. 
17  cents  per  pound. 

20  cents  per  pound. 

21  cents  per  pound. 
23  cents  per  pound. 
25  cents  per  pound. 


Connect  with  10. 30  a.  m.  train  from  San  Francisco, 
three  days. 


Semi-weekly  in  winter ;  through  in 


286 


EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 


Tables  of  distances,  fares,  and  freights — Continued. 

.  SAN  JOSt  TO  LEXINGTON. 


Station. 

Distance. 

Fare. 

Freight. 

$1  00 

50  cents  per  100  pounds. 

PETALUMA  TO  BODEGA. 


Stations. 


Distance. 


Fare. 


Freight. 


Stony  Point 
Sebastopol.. 
ra 


16 
26 


$1  00 
2  00 
2  50 


Express  i  cent  per  pound. 
Express  1  cent  per  pound. 
Express  1  cent  per  pound. 


Connect  at  Petaluma  with  boats  for  San  Francisco,  and  stages  for  Cloverdale  and  Mendo- 
cino. 

PETALUMA  TO  CLOVERDALE. 


Stations. 


Distance. 

Fare. 

16 

$1  50 

22 

2  00 

26 

2  25 

32 

3  03 

30 

3  50 

49 

4  50 

Freight. 


Santa  Rosa 
Mark  West 

Windsor 

Heardsburg 
Geyservilie 
Cloverdale. 


J  cent  per  pound. 

1  cent  per  pound. 
H  cent  per  pound. 

Team,  50  cents  per  100  pounds. 
If  cent  per  pound. 

2  cents  per  pound. 


Connect  at  Heardsburg  with  stages  for  Skaggs's  and  the  Geyser  Springs. 
Connect  at  Cloverdale  with  stages  for  Big  River  and  Ukiah,  and  Long  Valley. 

PETALUMA  TO  DUNCAN'S  MILL. 


Stations. 


Distance. 

Fare. 

8 

$1  00 

14 

1  50 

18 

2  00 

22 

2  50 

27 

3  00 

31 

3  50 

36 

4  og 

Freight. 


Two  Rock  Valley. 

Bloomfield 

Valley  Ford 

Bodega  Corners.  .. 

Bodega  Bay 

Duncan's  Point.  .. 
Duncan's  Mill 


i  cent  per  pound. 
^  cent  per  pound, 
f  cent  per  pound. 
J  cent  per  pound. 
1  cent  per  pound. 
1  cent  per  pound. 
1  cent  per  pound. 


i 


SUISUN  TO  KNOXVILLE. 


Stations. 


Gordon  Valley 

Big  Canon 

Berrcyesa  Valley 

Sulphur  Spring  House. 
Knoxville 


Distance. 


25 
30 
44 

50 


Fare. 


$2  50 

3  00 

4  00 

5  00 


Freight. 


1  cent  per  pound. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


287 


Talks  of  distances,  fares,  and  freights — Continued. 

NAPA  TO  UPPER  LAKE, 


Stations. 


Distance. 


Fare. 


Freight. 


Sebastopol 

St.  Helena... 

Calistofja 

Lower  Lake  . 
Kelsey  Creek 

Lakeport 

Upper  Lake  . 


9 
20 
27 
62 
72 
87 
101 


$0  50 

1  00 

2  00 
7  00 

7  50 

8  50 
10  00 


Connect  at  Napa  with  Sacramento  stages  and  boats  for  San  Francisco. 

LOS  ANGELES  TO  SAN  DIEGO. 


Stations. 


Freight. 


Anaheim 

San  Juan  Capistrano 

San  Luis  Rey 

San  Diego 


LOS  ANGELES  TO  SAN  BERNARDINO. 


Stations. 


Distance. 

Fare. 

14 

$1  00 

30 

2  50 

45 

4  00 

65 

5  00 

Freight. 


El  Monte 

Mud  Springs... 

Sosamongo 

San  Bernardino 


2i  cents  per  pound. 


Connect  with  Los  Angeles  and  San  Jos6  stages,  and  Los  Angeles  and  Cleveland 

LOS  ANGELES  TO  SAN  PEDRO. 


Stations. 


Distance.      Fare, 


Sauseo  

Los  Cuervos  , 
Wilmington  , 
San  Pedro  . . , 


7 
11 
22 
26 


$0  25 
0  25 
0  50 
0  50 


Freicrht. 


288 


EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 


Table  of  distances  from  Honolulu,  Haicaiian  Islands,  and,  from  San  Francisco, 
California,  to  various  forts  of  the  Pacific  and  the  world  ;  prepared  hy  J. 
H.  Riley,  Bureau  of  Statistics,  Treasury  Department,  and  verified  hy  J.  E. 
Hilgard,  esq.,  United  States  Coast  Survey  Office,  to  accompany  statistical 
report  on  the  Sandwich  Islands. 


From — 


To- 


Shortest  dis- 
tances. 


Shortest  sail- 
ing routes. 


Honolulu. 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

.      Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

San  Francisco - 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do. 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Aspinwall 

Panama 

Do 

Do 


New  York,  via  Cape  Horn 

New  York,  via  Panama 

Panama,  New  Granada 

Callao,  Peru 

Valparaiso,  Chili 

Acapulco,  Mexico 

Mazatlan,  Mexico 

Guaymas,  Mexico 

Cape  San  Lucas,  Mexico 

San  Diego,  California  

San  Francisco,  California 

Portland,  Oregon 

Victoria,  Victoria  Island 

New  Westminster,  British  Columbia.. 
New  Archangel,  (Sitka  Isl'd, )  Alaska. 

Yokohama,  Japan 

Canton,  China 

Sydney,  New  South  Wales 

Melbourne,  Victoria 

Jeddo,  via  Honolulu 

Shanghai,  via  Honolulu 

Hong  Kong,  via  Honolulu 

Sydney,  via  Honolulu 

Melbourne,  via  Honolulu 

Calcutta,  via  Honolulu 

New  York,  via  Cape  Horn 

New  York,  via  Panama 

Panama 

Callao 

Valparaiso 

Acapulco,  Mexico 

Manzanillo,  Mexico 

Mazatlan,  Mexico 

Guaymas,  Mexico 

Cape  San  Lucas,  Mexico 

San  Diego,  California 

Portland,  Oregon 

Victoria,  Vancouver's  Island 

New  Westminster,  British  Columbia.. 

New  Archangel,  (Sitka  Island) 

Kanagawa,  japan 

Milford  Haven,  England 

Tahiti,  Society  Islands 

Sydney,  New  South  Wales 

Canton,  China 


NauVl  miles. 


4,  320 

4,560 
5, 172 
5,928 
3,282 
2, 856 
2,580 
2,658 
2, 262 
2,080 
2,256 
2,310 
2,358 
2,370 
3,354 
4,848 
4,405 
4,810 
4,460 
5,328 
6,012 
6,456 
6,860 
6,810 


2,886 

3,9J2 

5,124 

1,740 

1,472 

1,200 

864 

1,104 

400 

462 

654 

690 

1,284 


4,390 
4,430 
7,638 
8,760 


NauVl  miles. 
14, 376 
6,587 
4, 560 
5,364 
5,990 
3,282 
2,856 
3,012 
2,658 
2,262 
2,080 
2,330 
2,330 
2,410 
2,370 
3, 475 
5,017 
4,820 
5,280 
5, 580 
6,740 
7,000 
6,700 
7,160 
11,380 
14, 000 
5,287 
3, 260 
4,010 
5,300 
1,850 
1,550 
1,390 
1,530 
1,145 
450 
570 
746 
815 
1,290 
4,900 
4,500 
4,540 
7,690 
9,577 


WEST  OP  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  289 

SECTION    XXII. 

GENERAL    SUMMARY. 

AUF.A    OF   CALIFORNIA,    AUA15LE   LANDS,    POPULATION,    PRODUCT    OF    PRECIOUS    METALS, 
SHIPMENTS  OF  TREASURE,  COINAGE,   &C. 

The  Commissioner  of  the  General  Land  Office,  in  his  Report  fur  18G7,  says  : 

California  extends  alongf  the  Pacific  coast  750  miles,  with  an  avcrag^e  breadth  of  2'.W.  Its 
area  is  ]8;^,9SI  square  miles,  or  l'iU,947,840  acres,  of  which  not  less  than  Hy,(lOH,(l(>(i,  incliid- 
infj  swamp  and  tnle  lands  capable  of  reclamation,  are  suited  to  some  kinds  of  profitable  hus- 
bandry. Of  these  over  40,000,000  are  fit  for  the  plough,  and  the  remainder  present  excellent 
facilities  for  stock-raising,  fruit-growing,  and  all  the  other  branches  of  agriculture.  This  agri- 
cultural area  exceeds  that  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland,  or  the  entire  peninsula  of  Italy.  The 
State  also  contains  about  40,000,000  of  acres  of  mineral  land,  unsurpassed  for  productiveness. 

About  30,000,000  of  acres  have  been  surveyed,  leaving  a  residue  unsurveyed  of  90,000,000. 
Nearly  9,000,000  have  been  granted  to  the  State  by  the  general  government,  under  various 
acts  of  Congress,  for  common  schools,  agricultural  colleges,  public  buildings,  and  internal 
improvements. 

Of  the  4(t,000,000  acres  of  arable  land,  14,000,000  are  found  in  the  basin  of  the  Sacramento 
and  San  Joaquin  rivers,  16.000,000  in  the  coast  valleys,  and  the  residue  in  the  region  called 
the  "Colorado  desert,"  in  Owen's  river  valley  and  the  Klamath  basin.  When  irrigation  is 
practiced  on  an  extensive  scale,  as  it  must  be  within  a  few  years,  and  the  valley  of  the  Col- 
orado is  brought  under  its  influence,  much  of  what  is  now  characterized  as  "desert"  will 
become  productive  and  valuable.  The  land  not  fit  for  the  plough,  but  valuable  for  grazing 
and  in  a  measure  for  horticultural  purposes,  especially  the  grape  culture,  is  to  be  found  on 
the  foot-hills  and  slopes  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  Coast  Range  mountains. 

Lano-lcy,  in  his  Pacific  Coast  Directory,  estimates  that  65,000,000  acres  are 
adapted  to  agricnltirre,  15,000,000  to  grazing-  purposes,  that  4,000,000  are  swamp 
and  oveiiiowed  hinds ;  also,  that  the  greater  portion  of  the  latter  is  capable  of 
reclamation,  and  is  to  a  great  extent  each  year  being  added  to  the  cultivated 
lands  of  the  State.  The  area  of  lakes,  bays  and  mountains  he  estimates  at 
14,000,000. 

Of  the  65,000,000  acres  of  agricultural  land,  [says  the  same  authority,  ]  there  were  returned 
by  the  county  assessors,  for  the  year  1865,  as  under  fence,  4,055,690  acres,  and  under  culti- 
vation 1, 504,680  acres.  It  will  thus  be  seen  that  there  is  but  six  per  cent,  of  the  agricultural 
la-nd  of  the  State  under  fence,  and  little  over  two  and  one-half  per  cent,  under  cultivation. 
The  retiurns  for  1866  will  increase  these  estimates  about  15  per  cent. 

19 


290 


EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TEREITORIES 


[From  Langley's  Pacific  Coast  Directory.  J 

Tahle  exhibiting  the  county  scats  of  the  different  counties,  legal  distances,  population 

of  1860  and  1S66,  d'C. 


Counties. 


Alameda 

Alpine 

Amador 

Butte , 

Calaveras 

Colusa 

Contra  Costa 

Del  Norte 

El  Dorado 

Fresno 

Humboldt 

Inyo 

Kern 

Klamath 

Lake 

Lassen 

Los  Angeles 

Marin 

Jlariposa 

Mendocino 

Merced 

Mono 

Monterey 

Napa 

Nevada 

Placer 

Plumas 

Sacramento 

San  Bernardino 

San  Diego 

San  Francisco 

San  Joaquin 

San  Luis  Obispo 

San  Mateo 

Santa  Barbara 

Santa  Clara 

Santa  Cruz 

Shasta 

Sierra 

Siskiyou 

Solano 

Sonoma 

Stanislaus 

Sutter 

Tehama 

Trniity 

Tulare 

Tuolumne , 

Yolo 

Yuba 


Total 


County  seat. 


San  Leandro  . .. 
Silver  Mountain 

Jackson 

Oroville 

San  Andreas  . . . 

Colusa 

Martinez 

Crescent  City. .. 

Placerville 

Millerton 

Eureka 

Independence  -  . 

Ilavilah 

Orleans  Bar 

Lakcport 

Susanville 

Los  Angeles 

San  Rafael 

Mariposa 

Ukiab , 

Snelling , 

Bridgeport 

Moutf  rey 

NnpaCity , 

Nevada  City  — 

Auburn 

Quincy 

Sacramento  - . . 

San  Bernardino. . 

San  Diego 

San  Francisco  - . 

Stockton  

San  Luis  Obispo 

Redwood  City. . 

Santa  Barbara.. 

San  Jos6 

Santa  Cruz 

Shasta 

Downieville 

Yreka 

Fairfield 

Santa  Rosa 

Knight's  Ferry  . 

Yuba  City 

RedBlulf 

Weaverville  . .  . 

Visalia 

Sonora 

Woodland 

Marysville 


Miles. 

i:i5 

I'lO 

53 

75 

60 

75 

90 

465 

50 

190 

390 

t 

t 

450 

120 

SCO 

550 

135 

145 

t 

115 

260 

i.>45 

60 

65 

35 

145 

Capital. 

f.CO 

750 

117 

51 

335 

140 

435 

150 

245 

185 

110 

350 

90 

130 

85 

50 

145 

255 

250 

115 

16 

50 


o  o 


1853 

1864 
16.^4 
J  850 
1850 
1850 
1850 
1857 
1850 
1856 
1853 
1866 
18G6 
1851 
1861 
1864 
1850 
1850 
1850 
1850 
1855 
1861 
1850 
1850 
1851 
1851 
1854 
1850 
18.54 
1650 
1856 
18.50 
1650 
1856 
1850 
1850 
1850 
1850 
1852 
1852 
1850 
1850 
1854 
1850 
1856 
1851 
1852 
1850 
1850 
1850 


8,926 


10, 933 

12, 107 
16, 3^3 
2  274 
5,  328 
1,992 
20,  562 
4,005 
2,694 


11,336 
3, 334 
6, 243 

3,967 
1,141 


4,739 
5,515 

16,  447 

13, 270 
4,363 

24, 145 
5,  554 
4, 326 

56,  805 
9,  434 
1,  782 

3,  214 
3, 545 

11,912 
4,945 
4,360 

11, 389 
7,  629 
7,170 

11,867 
2,245 
3, 390 
4,044 
5, 125 

4,  638 
16, 229 

4,716 
13,  671 


380, 016 


2,278 

612 

2,591 

2,856 

3,  635 

699 

1,480 

306 

5,071 

451 

685 


261 

618 

554 

1, 299 

1,095 

1,609 

1,354 

291 

305 

779 

1,328 

4,577 

3,792 

1,497 

5, 956 

736 

294 

21,019 

3, 276 

408 

977 

423 

3,  132 

1,426 

1,471 

3,088 

1, 882 

2,163 

4,362 

623 

1,263 

846 

1,114 

1,167 

3, 1.55 

1,128 

3,203 


Oj   go 

a  '^'^- 

.=  "0  0 


4,631 

231 
2,816 
2,806 
3,600 

956 
2,682 

299 
3,892 

486 

1,601 

28 


197 

995 

426 

3,882 

1,347 

1,253 

2,301 

596 


103, 135 


2,123 
2,175 
4,970 
3, 123 

982 
0,914 
1,679 

454 

30,  694 

5,143 

856 
1,  544 
1,641 
6,51,9 
2,780 
1,276 
1,  555 
1,727 
4,755 
7,585 

940 
1,739 
1,016 

728 
1,303 
2,951 
2, 125 
3,126 


p.  00 


15,  430 


9,380 
9,350 
12, 000 
3,180 
8,960 


12,  970 
1,680 
5,330 


3,350 
1,420 
12, 940 
4,490 
4,170 
7,670 
1,980 


137, 498 


7,000 
7,250 

16, 560 

10,410 
3,670 

23,  000 

5,  260 

1,  .500 

102, 313 

17,140 
2,850 
5,148 
5,  470 

21,696 
9,260 
4,250 
5,180 
5,756 

15, 850 

25, 280 
3, 460 
5,796 
3, 386 
2,426 
4,890 
9,836 
7,080 

10. 420 


as. 2 


456.  437 


$4,  533, 560 

450,  OOO 

1, 907, 252 

5, 128,  358 

1,890,657 

1, 089, 155 

2,  544, 282 

379, 025 

3, 476,  526 

826, 000 

2, 2C0, 000 

tSOO,  000 

819,825 

288, 089 

395, 708 

:750,  000 

2, 353, 392 

2,  247, 571 

1, 237,  470 

1,  900.  000 
842,  847 
357, 961 

1, 265, 450 

2,  797, 688 
5, 173, 837 
2,  82(i,  243 
1, 192, 521 

10,316,976 
695, 201 
448, 706 

88,  402, 274 

5,  275,  016 

758, 330 

2,  7011,  000 
771,861 

7, 972,  899 
1,441,739 
1, 091, 723 
2,314,096 
1,617,822 

3,  044, 120 
5,  346, 686 
1,026,216 

1,  778, 268 
'  1, 598,  500 

653, 189 
1,299,379 
|2,  300.  000 

2,  156,427 
4, 150, 500 


197, 133, 345 


.    Note.— Total  estimated  population  in  1867,  480,000. 

*  The  figures  in  the  above  table  referring  to  the  population  of  this  State  for  1866  are  taken  from  the  report 
of  the  State  superintendent  of  public  schools,  Mr.  John  Swett,  and  are  estimilted  upon  the  basis  that  the 
school  children  under  litteen  years  of  age  constitute  thirty  per  cent,  of  the  population.  In  the  absence  of 
ofiieial  data,  this  is  probably  a.s  fair  a  mode  as  can  be  adopted  to  arrive  at  an  approximation  of  the  population 
of  our  State.  Wo  think,  however,  that  the  estimate  for  San  Francisco  is  at  least  18,000  too  low. — Compiler. 
t  Not  yet  defined  by  law.  ♦  Estimated. 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


291 


Sfafownt  of  the  number  of  passengers  hy  sea  arrlv'wp  at  and  departing  from  the 
port  of  San  Francisco  during  the  frst,  second,  third,  and  fourth  quarters  of 
1867,  a^  declared  at  tJw  custom-house. 


Arrivals. 

Departures. 

a 
t 

s 

c 

a 

3 

c5 

0) 

a 
s 
c 

•a 

c 

a 

3 

.a 

3 

u 

3 
C 

5 

V. 
a 

.a 

"3 

O 

Panama,  New  Granada 

3,089 

1,766 

242 

463 

12 

4 

152 

193 

145 

20 

6,409 

1,519 

236 

2,129 

5,654 

1,674 

341 

.1,429 

6 

5,630 

1,835 

405 

273 

13 

20.  782 

6,791 

1,224 

4,  294 

31 

4 

1,267 

593 

544 

139 

2  227 
~'e67 

77 
424 

1 

3,168 

1,413 

1.34 

410 

2,194 

1,005 

120 

1,232 

2 

2,434 

1,055 

71 

2,433 

1 

10,074 
4,340 

Victoria,  British  Columbia 

402 
4,499 

4 

315 
73 

227 
18 

702 

230 

67 

47 

98 

97 

105 

54 

67 

107 

99 

14 

6, 281 

07 

150 
03 
15 

111 
51 
9 

67 

47 

344 

441 

260 

3S2 

Total 

6,086 

10, 926 

10, 150 

8,510 

35, 672 

3,881 

5,296 

5,011 

20,  469 

RECAPITULATION. 


1st  quarter. 

2d  quarter. 

3d  quarter. 

4th  quarter. 

Total. 

6,  086 

3,881 

10,  926 
5,296 

10, 150 
5,011 

8,510 
6,  281 

35,672 
20  469 

2,205 

5,630 

5, 139 

2,229 

]5  2C3 

One  of  the  most  ag^reeable  features  of  the  past  year  is  the  increase  in  populittiou  which 
reached  our  shores  during  its  passage.  Tlie  arrivals  during  the  second  and  third  quarters  \\  ere 
more  numerous  than  in  the  lirst  and  fourth  quarters,  while  the  departures  for  the  fourth  quarter 
exceed  those  of  any  other.  This  we  believe  to  be  contrary  to  the  general  rale.  Heretofore 
the  greatest  number  of  arrivals  by  sea  have  been  during  the  last  quarter,  and  the  departures 
fewer.  People  at  the  east  are  generally  more  anxious  to  leave  when  the  rigors  of  their  severe 
winters  commence,  while  those  who  have  been  residents  of  the  Pacific  coast  usually  evince 
more  desire  to  go  eastward  when  the  spring  has  fairly  opened  and  our  winds  commence. 
During  the  year  li^(57  the  arrivals  by  sea  exceeded  the  departures  by  ]5,"203.  But  wc  have 
also  received  huge  additions  ovedand.  Our  probable  increase  from  abroad  will  reach  27,UU0 
souls.  Large  numbers  are  known  to  be  on  their  way  from  Sweden,  Germany,  and  Norway, 
and  considerable  tracts  of  fine  farming  land  have  already  been  purchased  and  made  ready  for 
their  reception. — [Commercial  Herald  and  Market  Review. 


PRODUCT  or  PRECIOUS  METALS,  ETC. 

Receipts  and  Exports  or  Tkeasuee. — The  following  tables  derived  from 
official  sources  are  co])icd  IVuiu  the  C(Minnercial  Herald  and  Market  Review  : 


TREASURE  PRODUCT,  IMPORTS,  ETC. 

The  receipts  of  treasure  from  all  sources  through  regular  public  channels  during  the  past 
twelve  months,  as  compared  with  ln-GG,  have  been  as  follows : 

1866.  1867. 

From  California  northern  mines $38, 715,  340  $40,  927,  3C9 

From  California  southern  mines 5, 149,749  4,477,4()1 

From  Coastwise  ports,  Oregon,  «fec 5, 940,  '>'M'y  6,  ] 92, 734 

Imports,  foreign,  British  Columbia,  «&c 2, 8^7,  (.i-M  3,  909,  322 

Total 52,C92,tw3  rw,.";G6,82G 


292 


EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERPJTOEIES 


From  an  examination  of  the  statements  of  treasure  received  in  this  city,  it  will  be  seen  that 
there  lias  been  an  increase  of  more  than  $2,000,000  in  the  amount  received  from  the  northera 
mines  the  past  over  the  preceding  year  ;  the  greater  portion  of  this  increment  being  due  to 
the  State  of  Nevada.  The  receipts  from  the  southern  mines  have  meantime  fallen  off  mate- 
rially, while  those  from  coastwise  ports,  Oregon,  «fcc.,  have  increased  slightly,  and  those  from 
British  Columbia  and  other  foreign  ports  very  considerably.  The  bullion  transmitted  the 
past  year  to  this  city,  through  Wells,  Fargo  &  Go's,  express,  as  being  the  product  of  the 
State  of  Xevada,  amounted  to  $lb,000,000.  To  this  sum  may  be  added,  perhaps,  $500,000 
to  represent  the  amount  of  biTllion  arriving  during  the  year  in  private  hands,  making  a  total 
product  for  that  State  for  1867  of  §18,500,000.  Of  this  sum  about  $2,000,000  may  beset  down 
as  the  product  of  lieese  river  and  other  outside  localities,  leaving  the  balance  §16,000,000  to  be 
credited  to  the  Comstock  lode.  In  apportioning  the  product  of  these  several  outside  localities, 
about  $1,500,000  should  be  set  down  to  account  of  what  is  usually  termed  the  Eeese  river 
country,  which,  for  the  end  in  view,  should  be  made  to  embrace  all  the  outlying  districts  about 
Austin ;  in  fact,  the  whole  of  Lander,  Nye,  and  Lincoln  counties,  excepting,  perhaps,  the  Silver 
Peak  district,  which  lies  in  Esmeralda  county,  and  Avhich  has  turned  out  but  little  bullion 
the  past  year.  The  remaining  half  million  maj'  be  divided  between  Humboldt  and  Esmeralda 
counties  in  the  following  proportions:  $300,000  for  the  former,  and  $200,000  for  the  latter, 
none  of  the  other  counties  in  the  State,  except  Storey,  containing  the  Comstock  lode,  pro- 
ducing any  bullion  worth  naming.  These  figures,  as  will  be  seen,  denote  for  the  year  iu 
question  a  very  marked  increase  in  the  State  at  large  over  the  yield  of  any  former  year ;  this 
rate  of  increase  being  in  about  the  same  ratio  for  the  Comstock  lode  and  the  outside  precincts. 
The  product  of  the  former  for  186(1  was  estimated  at  $16,250,000,  and  of  the  other  localities 
named,  $1,2.50,000,  of  which  $1,000,000  was  assigned  to  Reese  river,  and  $250,000  to  Hum- 
boldt and  Esmeralda.  While,  however,  such  gratifying  gains  have,  during  this  period,  sig- 
nalized the  progress  of  Nevada,  the  year  has  rather  been  one  of  preliminary  preparation  than 
of  progress  and  fruition ;  the  most  of  the  companies  owning  what  may  be  considered  the  more 
promising  of  the  outside  mines,  having  been  engaged  at  heavy  expense  in  developing  their 
claims,  and  erecting  mills — very  few  of  them  in  active  productive  operation.  These  mills  will 
soon  be  completed,  and  the  mines  be  thoroughly  explored,  and  placed  in  condition  to  yield 
ores  largely,  rendering  it  probable  that  still  more  marked  additions  will  be  made  to  the  bullion 
returns  of  the  State  the  present  than  was  done  the  past  year,  and  almost  insuring  for  that 
State  a  total  product  for  1868  of  $20,000,000.  Eveu  if  the  Comstock  mines  should  not 
advance  their  yield,  or  should  suffer  some  small  abatement,  this  result  will  probably  be  attained, 
as  there  is  an  almost  certainty  of  the  mines  at  Silver  Peak  and  those  about  Belmont  turning 
out  a  large  amount  of  bullion  the  current  year,  to  say  nothing  of  the  promised  gains  for 
Humboldt  and  Esmeralda. 

The  following  table  shows  the  value  and  destination  of  treasure  shipments  from  this  port 
during  the  past  14 years — from  1854  to  1867,  inclusive: 


Years 

East'n  ports. 

England. 

China. 

Panama. 

Other  ports. 

Totals. 

1854.... 

$46,533,166 

$3, 781, 080 

$965, 887 

.$204,592 

$560, 908 

$52,045,633 

1855.... 

38, 730, 564 

5,182,1.56 

889, 675 

231,207 

128, 129 

45,161,731 

18.56.... 

39, 895, 294 

8, 666, 289 

1 ,  308, 852 

2.53, 268 

573,732 

50, 697, 434 

18.57.... 

35,  .531,  778 

9,  347, 743 

2, 993, 2(54 

410,929 

692, 978 

48, 976, 692 

18.58.... 

35,891,236 

9, 265, 739 

1,916,007 

299, 265 

175,779 

47,548,026 

J859.... 

40,  146,437 

3,910,930 

3,100,7.56 

279, 919 

202, 390 

47, 640, 462 

1860.... 

35,719,296 

2, 672, 936 

3, 374, 680 

300,819 

258, 185 

42,325,916 

18(>l.... 

32,628,011 

4,061,779 

3,541,279 

349, 769 

95,920 

40, 676, 758 

1862     .. 

26,194,035 

12,950,  140 

2, 660, 754 

434,508 

322, 324 

42,561,761 

1863.... 

10,389,330 

28,467,256 

4,206,370 

2, 503. 291) 

505, 667 

46,071,920 

1864.... 

13,316,  122 

34, 436,  423 

7, 888, 973 

378, 795 

68{i,  8BS 

56,707,201 

1865.... 

20, 583,  390 

15,432,639 

6, 963,  .522 

1,224,845 

1, 103,832 

45,308,227 

1866.... 

29,244,891 

6,  532, 208 

6, 527, 287 

511,550 

1 , 548, 457 

44,364,393 

1867.... 

23, 355, 903 

5,841,184 

9,031,-504 

372, 552 

3, 075, 149 

41,676,292 

Totals. 

428,159,453 

150,548,502 

55,  368,  810 

7, 755, 344 

9, 930, 338 

651,762,446 

WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


293 


RECEIPTS  OF   TREASURE. 


The  tblU)wiii<T  tiiMes  comprise  the  roceipts.of  coinetl  and  uncoined  treasure  from  the  inte- 
■  rior  and  cotistwise  during  the  yeurs  1^05,  18GG,  and  I8li7  : 


FROM  THE  NORTHERN  MINES. 


1865. 

1866. 

1867. 

Uncoined. 

Coined.        Total. 

Uncoined. 

Coined. 

Total. 

Uncoined. 

Coined. 

Total. 

Jan 

|3, 236, 768 

$440,  637  $3,  677,  405 

$2,  347,  832 

$452,  288 

$2,  800, 120 

$3,  077, 209 

$439, 204 

.$3,516,533 

Feb 

2,  995,  161: 

245, 17-1 

3. 240, 337 

2,  846, 13C 

173,  03C 

3,  019, 160 

2,202,155 

265,  857 

2,  .528,  012 

March 

3, 875, 331 

216,  853 

4,  092, 184 

2,  567,  000 

182.  COO 

2,  749,  000 

2,719,436 

281,876 

3,001,312 

April 

3, 258,  420 

279,51)4 

3,  537,  924 

2,951.030 

599,415 

3,  550,  445 

3,  943,  605 

246,910 

4,190,515 

Mav 

3,851,53;i 

211,808 

4,  063,  341 

3,  523,  482 

360,  670 

3,  884, 152 

3,521,435 

250, 354 

3,  771,  789 

June 

3,416,3)4 

271,4:18 

3,  087,  742 

3, 357,  702 

230, 373 

3,  588,  075 

3,  405,  576 

273,  403 

3,  738,  979 

July 

2,  8filJ,  83.) 

274,776;  3,  13.i,  606 

3,158,584 

445,  o.;o 

3,  6U3,  584 

3,701,611 

291,  524 

3,  993,  135 

Aug 

3,  0,58,  004 

2(19,1181  3,267,122 

3, 293, 276 

243, 097 

3,  536,  373 

3,  736,  035 

209,  890 

3,  945, 925 

Sept 

2,  613,  623 

185,  342 

2,  798,  965 

2,  802,  649 

241,443 

3,  044,  092 

3, 101,  754 

18.5,  920 

3,  287,  074 

Oct 

2,  688,  079 

225,  977 

2,914,056 

3, 128, 32C 

198,  420 

3,  326,  740 

3,  082,  637 

307, 219 

3, 389, 856 

Nov 

2,614,218 

250,  8,-.3 

2,865,071 

2,621,219 

196, 337 

2,817,556 

2,968,419 

253, 263 

3,221,683 

Dec 

2,181,064 

281,630 

2,  402,  694 

2,  595,  531 

200,  512 

2,  790,  043 

1,  998,  695 

343,  202 

2,341,897 

Total... 

36, 649, 337 

3,093,110,39,742,447 

35, 192,  755 

3,  522, 585 

38,  715,  340 

37, 578,  627 

3,  348,  082  40, 927, 309 

FRO 

tt  THE  SOUTHERN   MINES. 

Jan 

$425,711 

$123, 374     $549,  085 

$289,  984 

$138,  836 

$428,  820 

$220,  367 

$166,  707 

$387, 074 

Feb 

386, 287 

72,  283 

458,  570 

308,  716 

65,431 

.374, 147 

203,  918 

57,  452 

261,370 

March 

530,210 

129,  073 

659,  2S3 

250,  000 

57,  000 

307,  000 

203,  250 

98,  074 

3.11,924 

April 

471,963 

79,  600 

5.51,  563 

355,  295 

64,  479 

419,774 

287,  478 

123,  275 

410,753 

May 

501,  267 

135,  444 

036,711 

269,  045 

84,  080 

353, 125 

290,  543 

130,  000 

421,143 

Juue 

433,818 

86,  534 

520,  352 

206,168 

119,  .350 

415.518 

314,402 

114.107 

428,  509 

July 

408,  903 

136,  36;! 

545, 266 

306,  373 

70,  432 

376,  805 

3C9,  601 

87,910 

397,  571 

Aug 

407,  355 

100,  4(14 

507, 759 

3;;9,  361 

79,  595 

388,  956 

262,188 

75  825 

338, 013 

Sept 

421,  033 

82,261 

503,  294 

250,  683 

97,  608 

354,291 

237,  027 

li;4,9G9 

341,  996 

Oct 

437, 274 

156,642 

593,  916 

488,  450 

87,  614 

570,  004 

263,  72£ 

;32,  02S 

395,  757 

Nov 

373,  433 

122,  935 

496, 368 

490, 300 

92, 33i) 

582,  630 

254,  921 

184,  837 

439,  758 

Dec 

311,159 

95,  634 

406, 793 

486,  600 

80,  019 

572,  619 

165, 873 

187,  721 

353, 594 

Total . . . 

5, 108, 413 

1,320,547   6,428,960 

4, 106,  975 

1,042,774 

5, 149,  749 

3,  013,  350 

1,  464, 105 

4,  477, 401 

COASTWISE. 

Jan 

p33, 123 

$128,611 

$461,  734 

$257,  930 

$30,  853 

$288,  783 

$344,  440 

$15,  381 !    $359,821 

Feb 

219,9 -'6 

59,  978 

279,  904 

174, 219 

80,  972 

255,  191 

128, 799 

10,884!      139,683 

March... 

]f,7,  411 

40,  9 1 1 

208,  322 

197,  023 

20,  577 

217,  600 

119,398 

23,2841      142,682 

April 

291,  949 

60, 873 

352,  822 

274, 620 

29,  974 

304,  594 

344, 075 

7,  4.50!      351,  525 

May 

362,  150 

47, 975 

410,  134 

411,427 

90,  956 

502,  383 

380, 780 

11,030,      392,416 

Juue 

791,928 

52,  CG9 

844,  597 

400, 132 

42,  388 

502, 520 

366, 265 

8,976       37.5,241 

July 

823,641 

31,269 

8.54,910 

680,  953 

37,591 

718,  544 

760,  693 

214,  744       975,  437 

Aug 

786, 538 

32,241 

818,799 

932,  392 

50,  959 

989,  351 

1,  006,  ISO 

2,536,  1,0(8,722 

Sept 

954,813 

28, 870 

983,  689 

621,426 

7,618 

629,  044 

490,  853 

5,  556       496. 409 

Oct 

034,116 

23, 861 

657, 980 

559,  212 

54,  055 

613, 267 

744, 349 

80, 980]      825,  329 

Niiv 

794, 085 

16,818 

810,  903 

412, 183 

45,  300 

457,  483 

536,  548 

100,  520!      037,  008 

Dec 

788, 802 

24,  J8U 

812,  982 

415, 5«3 

32,  193 

447,  776 

442,  951 

45,450'      488,401 

Total . . . 

6,948,511 

548,265 

7, 496, 776 

5, 397, 100 

529, 436 

5,  920, 536 

5,  665,  337 

527, 397,  6, 192,  734 

RECAPITULATION. 


Uncoined $48,  706,  201 

Coined 4.  961,  922 


Total. 


1800. 


$44,  690,  830 
5,  094,  895 

49,791,72.5 


$46, 257,  320 
5,  340, 184 

51,  597,  504 


294  EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TTiRRITOEIES 

TO  NEW  YORK.  ^      $2,809,235  55 

In  January 1,396,207  24 

In  February 1,646,058  86 

In  March 1,186,780  34 

In  April. s' 535, 232  56 

InMay 2,661,643  57 

In  June 2,389,688  29 

In  July 1,610,041  45 

InAugust 1,337,755  30 

InSeptember 1,024,552  18 

In  October 1,957,828  43 

InNovember 2,800,88168 

InDecember '        $23,355,903  45 

TO  ENGLAND.  ^qS,  070  85 

In  January 384,098  00 

In  February 357,661  60 

In  March 297,174  02 

In  April 788,772  13 

InMay 502,834  36 

In  June 616,302  22 

InJuly 515,691  91 

InAugust 493,065  34 

InSeptember 704,600  43 

InOctober 321,514  42 

InNovember 156,408  71 

InDecember _ 5,841,183  99 

TOFR.^CE.  122,33156 

In  January '  105,079  91* 

InFebruary 67,000  00 

InMarch 69,537  25 

In  April 101,509  48 

InMay 117,400  57 

In  June 183,751  64 

InJuly 234,905  70 

InAugust 106,600  42 

In  September 34,772  40 

InOctober 65,555  27 

InNovember 74,79153                     „^  _ 

InDecember . 1,283,235  73 

'^^^"'^^-  806,076  27 

In  January 376,206  32 

InFebruary 110,642  72 

In  March.-.,, 1,081,513  57 

In  April 760,027  73 

luMay 698,933  73 

In  Juno 1,746,078  69 

InJuly 385,540  53 

In  August 1,180,308  18 

InSeptember 1,119,629  84 

InOctober 766,546  77 

InDecember ___J 9,031,504  35 

TO  JAPAN.  ^^^^g^^g 

In  January 10,000  00 

In  March 2,238  72 

lu  April 2,845  00 

InMay 1,100  00 

InJuly 10,000  00 

InSeptember 650  00 

InOctober 593,430  34 

InDecember . 641,949  52 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 


295 


TO  PANAMA. 

In  January $:50,000  00 

In  February 30,  000  00 

In  March 30,000  00 

lu  April 29,000  00 

I n  M ay 30.000  00 

In  June 30,000  00 

In  July 30,000  00 

In  Auirust 32,127  40 

In  September 40,000  00 

In  October 30,000  00 

In  November 31,424  30 

luDecember 30,000  00 


$372,551  70 


TO  CENTRAL  AMERICA. 

InFebruary 20,000  00 

In  April 45,550  00 

In  May 28,400  00 

In  June 8,000  00 

In  July 3,000  00 

InOctober .   8,060  00 

InDecember 58,370  00 

171,980  00 

TO   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS. 

In  April 1,300  00 

In  June 1,000  00 

In  July 1,000  00 

InAuRust 5,000  00 

InOctober 18,906  00 

In  November 29,826  42 

57,032  45 

TO  MEXICO. 

In  January 10,000  00 

In  February 3,000  00 

InMarch 13,000  00 

In  October 5,000  00 

InDecember... 11,000  00 

42,000  00 

TO  VALPARAISO. 

In  February 399,849  08 

InMarch 323,601  89 

723,450  97 

TO   TAHITI. 

In  February 500  00 

TO  VICTORIA. 

InFebruary 50,000  00 

In  October 80,000  00 

In  December 25,  000  00 

155,000  00 

Total,  1867 *4 1,  676, 722  10 

Total, 18(i6 44,364,393  05 

Decrease  this  year 2,  (]e,S,  100  89 


*To  tho  fipwres  representing  the  amount  of  treasure  shipped  hence  in  1807  would  justly  bo  added  about 
$6,000,000  sent  east  by  tho  United  States  sub-treasurer  in  this  eity,  whereby  the  total  sura  sent  out  ol  tho 
country  reached  $4i?,000,000  for  the  last  year.  This  oflBcer  shipped  on  Koverniuent  .-iccount  $11,500,000  in  16(iC, 
thoagb,  so  near  as  we  can  learn,  not  over  $6,000,000  wero  shipped  by  him  last  year. 


296 


RESOURCES    OF   STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 


Amount  of  Bullion  Assayed  and  Taxed. — The  following  table,  pre- 
pared at  the  office  of  the  Commissioner  of  Internal  Revenue,  shows  the  total 
amount  of  bullion  produced  in  the  United  States,  upon  which  the  revenue  tax 
of  one-half  of  one  per  cent,  has  been  collected  during  the  calendar  year  1S67.* 
It  should  be  observed  that  the  bullion  is  not  always  assayed  and  assessed  in  the 
State  or  Teratory  in  which  it  is  produced.  California,  for  example,  shows  a 
total  estimated  value  of  gold  and  silver  bullion  in  coin  of  828,840,139;  this 
includes  a  considerable  portion  of  the  product  of  Idaho,  Washington  Territory, 
and  Oregon.  Nearly  all  the  bullion  produced  in  Nevada  is  assessed  in  that 
State  ;  whilst  in  New  York  and  Pennsylvania  the  assessments  are  upon  bullion 
deposited  there  from  other  sources.  The  table,  therefore,  is  chiefly  valuable  as 
showing  the  aggregate  product  upon  which  taxes  have  been  collected.  The 
total  value  assessed,  viz :  $58,175,047,  and  the  actual  product  for  1867,  as  esti- 
mated in  letter  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  (page  3,)  viz :  $75,000,000, 
show  a  difference  of  $16,824,953.  Of  this  amount  a  portion  may  be  accounted 
for  as  remaining  unassayed,  and  some  may  have  escaped  taxation. 

Statement  showing  the  fax  returned  on  hidlion  as  assayed  from  each  State,  and  Ter- 
ritory of  the  United  States  for  the  calendar  year  1867;  also,  tile  value  of  the 
bullion  in  currency  and  its  estimated  value  in  coin,  assuming  that  the  average 
premium  on  gold  for  the  year  was  38f  per  cent.,  or  that  one  dollar  in  currency 
was  worth  seventy -ttvo  cents  in  coin. 


states  and  Territories. 


Tax  in  currency 
on  gold  bullion. 


Tax  in  currency 
on  silver  bul- 
lion. 


Valueoftbegold 
bullion,  in  cur- 
i-ency. 


Value  of  the  sil- 
ver bullion,  in 
currency. 


California  ... 

Colorado 

Idaho  

Montana 

Nevada 

New  York... 

Oregon 

Pennsylvania 

Utab 

Washington  - 

Total  . 


$193, 

1, 

5, 

11, 

43, 

28, 

lo', 

14, 
4, 


3f56  74 
447  45 
080  12 
413  70 
865  20 
140  27 
C24  CO 
030  14 
087  16 
563  02 


,912  00 


1,  682  02 

44 

77,021  21 

3,  007  70 

4  61 

1,747  00 


$38, 6T3, 348 

289,  4P0 

1, 136,  024 

2, 282,  740 

8,  773,  040 

5,  638,  054 

2,  004,  920 

2,  806,  028 

817,432 

312,  604 


$1, 382, 400 


336,  404 

88 

15,  404,  242 

601,  ,540 

922 

349, 400 


313,618  40 


90,  374  98 


62,  723,  680 


18, 074, 996 


States  and  Territories. 


California  . . . 

Colorado 

Idaho  

Montana 

Nevada  

Nevir  York... 

Oregon 

Pennsylvania 

Utah 

Washingtou  . 

Total . 


Total  v.ilue  of 
gold  and  silver 
bullion,  in  cur- 
rency. 


,  055, 
289, 
,472, 

Os-j 

imi 

,  229, 
,  00,5, 
,  15.5, 
817, 
312, 


80, 798,  676 


Estimated  value 
of  gold  bullion, 
in  cuiu. 


$27,844,811 

2C8,  433 

817,937 

1,  643, 573 

6, 31(!,  589 

4,  052, 199 

1,  443,  542 

2,  020,  340 
588,  551 
225, 075 


45, 161,  050 


Estimated  value 
of  silver  bul- 
lion, in  coin. 


$995, 328 


242,211 

63 

11,  091, 054 

433, 109 

664 

251, 568 


13,  013, 997 


Total  estimated 
value  of  gold 
and  silver  bul- 
lion, in  coin. 


$28, 840, 139 

208,  433 

1,060,143 

1,643,636 

17, -407,  643 

4,  485,  303 

1,444,206 

2, 271,  908 

588, 551 

225, 075 


58, 175,  047 


**  This  tax  is  abolished  under  the  new  internal  revenue  act. 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  297 

Deposits  A^m  Coixagp:. — The  followini^  is  a  statement  of  the  deposits  and 
coinage  at  the  branch  mint  of  the  United  States,  in  San  Francisco,  during  the 
year  ending  December  31,  18G7  : 

Value. 

Gold  deposits $18,92:5,152  17 

Silver  deposits  and  purchases 01:5, 117  94 

Total  deposits 19, 53(),  270  1 1 


Statement  of  coinage  executed. 


Denominations. 

No.  of  pieces. 

Value. 

GOLD. 

920,  750 

9,000 
29,  000 
28,000 

$18,415,000  00 
'HI  000  00 

Eai'les    ■     

145,  000  00 
70,  000  00 

Total     . 

986,  750 

18,  720,  000  00 

SILVER. 

Half  dollars 

1, 19G,  000 

48,  000 

140, 000 

120,  000 

20 

598, 000  00 
12,000  00 

14  000  00 

6  0i;0  00 

20,  534  92 

Total 

1,504,020 

650  534  92 

RECAPITULATION. 

986,  750 
1,504  020 

18,  720, 000  00 
65U,  534  92 

Silver 

Total 

2,  490,  770 

19,  370, 534  92 

The  deposits  for  the  year  ending  December  31,  1867,  were  of  the  following  character : 


GOLD  DEPOSITS. 

California,  bullion $5,700,871  12 

1,144,483  04 

319,620  90 

309,843  32 

49,030  47 

48,797  73 

168,901  92 


Idaho, 

Oregon,  "       

Montana,         "      

Nevada,  "      

Arizona,  "       

Parted  from  silver  bullion 


Fine  bars 10,980,791  94 

Foreign  coin 153,453  31 

Foreign  bullion 47,358  42 


r, 74], 548  50 


11,181,603  67 


Total  gold 18,923,152  17 


298  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

SILVER. 

Nevada,  bullion $205,618  87 

Arizona,       "      8,425  74 

Idaho,  "      39,727  45 

Parted  from  gold  bullion 69,999  56 

$323,771  62 

Bars 239,799  25 

Foreign  coin 27, 595  31 

Foreign  bullion 21,951  76 

289,346  32 

Total  silver 613,117  94 

Sil vfr  bars  stamped $20, 534  92 

Total  gold  and  silver 19,536,270  11 

Fine  bars,  total 20,534  92 

Total  Deposits  and  Coinage. — The  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  in  Lis  annual 
report  for  the  year  1867  states  that  the  total  value  of  the  bullion  deposited  at 
the  mint  and  branches  during  the  fiscal  year  was  $41,893,100  76,  of  wliich 
$40,069,200  06  was  in  gold  and  $1,823,900  70  in  silver.  Deducting  the  rede- 
posit,  the  amount  of  actual  deposit  was  $34,537,048  39. 

The  coinage  for  the  year  was,  in  gold  coin,  $28,217,187  50;  gold  bars, 
$11,621,691  32;  silver  coin,  $986,871;  silver  bars,  $575,823  18  ;  nickel,  copper, 
and  bronze  coinage,  (one,  two,  three,  and  five-cent  pieces,)  $1,879,540.  Total 
coinage,  $31,083,598  50.     Total  bars  stamped,  $12,197,514  50. 

Tlie  gold  deposits  of  domestic  production  were,  at  Philadelphia,  $2,418,11'  7  89 ; 
at  San  Francisco,  $17,936,169  40;  at  New  York,  $10,320,821  55;  at  Denver, 
$130,559  70.  The  silver  deposits  were,  at  Philadelphia,  $37,399  72;  Sau 
Francisco,  $744,387  48 ;  New  York,  $274,893  19. 

The  gold  and  silver  deposits  of  foreign  production  were  $2,674,619  46. 

The  amount  of  gold  coined  at  Philadelphia  was  $10,072,060  86  ;  at  San 
Francisco,  $18,225,000;  of  silver,  at  Philadelphia,  $357,490  38;  at  San  Fran- 
cisco, $780,048  54 ;  of  bronze,  nickel,  and  copper,  at  Philadelphia,  $1,879,540. 
Total  number  of  pieces  struck,  54,110,384. 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  299 


NEVADA. 

SECTION    I. 

TOPOGRAPHY.  PHYSICAL  FEATURES.  AND  NATURAL  PRODUCTIONS. 

System  of  Mountains,  Plains,  and  Valleys. — This  State,  in  common 
with  the  entire  region  lying  between  the  SieiTa  Nevada  and  the  Rocky  mountains, 
is  an  elevated  plain,  having-  a  general  altitude  of  about  4,000  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  Crossing  this  plateau  are  many  mountain  ranges,  the  most  of  which 
have  a  northerly  and  southerly  course,  being  separated  from  each  other  by  valleys 
horn  5  to  20  miles  wide,  which  is  also  about  the  width  of  the  adjacent  mountains, 
measured  on  a  straight  line  from  base  to  base.  These  mountains  have  an  abso- 
lute height  varying  from  5,000  to  12,000  feet,  being  from  1,000  to  8,000  feet 
above  the  common  level  of  the  country.  The  Sien-a  Nevada,  forming  for  some 
distance  a  natural  banner  along  the  western  apd  southwestern  parts  of  the  State, 
varies  in  height  from  7,000  to  13,000  feet.  ^This  range  is  covered  with  heavy 
forests  to  its  very  base,  while  all  the  others  in  the  interior  of  the  State  are  barren 
of  wood,  or  but  sparsely  timbered.  This  alternation  of  mountains  and  valleys 
is  preserved  with  gi'eat  uniformity  throughout  all  parts  of  the  State,  more  espe- 
cially in  the  central  and  eastern  portions.  In  places  these  mountains  disappear, 
or  so  contract  as  to  transform  the  valleys  into  broad  plains  or  basins,  sume  of 
which  are  open  and  imobstinicted,  while  others  are  dotted  with  buttes,  or  covered 
with  groups  of  rugged  hills.  At  points  along  then-  course  these  ranges  are  much 
depressed,  or  cut  by  ravines  striking  across  their  summits,  fonning  passes  so  low, 
and  with  such  gradual  slopes  on  either  side,  as  to  greatly  facilitate  the  constnic- 
tion  of  wagon  roads,  and  even  railways,  across  them.  In  some  parts  of  the  country 
the  mountains,  instead  of  running  in  parallel  chains,  are  broken  into  confused 
and  detached  masses,  their  longitudinal  axis  confoiTning  towards  no  commpn 
direction.  The  sides  of  these  mountains  are  everywhere  cut  by  deep  ravines  or 
canons,  the  most  of  them  running  from  crest  to  base,  and  usually  at  nearly  right 
angles  with  their  general  comse.  In  some  places  these  ravines  are  but  one  or 
two,  while  in  others  they  are  five  or  six  miles  apart,  dividing  the  mountain  slopes 
into  enormous  ridges,  some  of  them  2,000  or  3,000  feet  above  the  separating 
canons.  The  latter  are  in  some  cases  well  watered,  perennial  streams  flowing 
through  them,  rendering  irrigation  of  their  banks  always  feasible,  while  in  others 
there  are  neither  springs  nor  running  streams,  whole  mountain  ranges  being,  like 
the  adjacent  plains,  nearly  or  quite  destitute  of  water.  As  in  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
these  interior  ranges  contain  a  few  high  ridges  and  peaks,  upon  which  in  places 
sheltered  from  the  sun,  or  where  deep  drifts  have  been  fonned,  the  snow  lies 
throughout  the  year.  Granite,  sienite,  slate,  limestone,  and  porphyry,  are  the 
])revailing  rocks  in  the  composition  of  the  Nevada  mountains,  which  have  gen- 
erally a  rounded  and  dome-like  contour,  though  occasionally  shooting  up  into 
]>yramidal  peaks  and  spire-shaped  summits.  The  tops  of  the  divides  between  the 
lateral  canons  are  especially  apt  to  be  sharp  and  nigged,  the  bare  and  splintered 
rocks  occasionally  standing  far  above  the  crest  of  the  ridge,  and  sometimes  strongly 
inclined  towards  the  comb  of  the  principal  mountain.  While  the  most  of  these 
ranges  are  covered  with  a  scanty  growth  of  bunch  grass,  and  with  patches  of 
pinon,  juniper,  and  other  scrubby  trees,  much  of  their  surface  is  destitute  of  both 
grass  and  every  other  species  of  useful  vegetation,  fully  three-fourths  being  with- 
out any  kind  of  timber.  Along  some  of  the  streams  flowing  through  the  canons 
are  narrow  strips  of  arable  land  which  frecjuently,  at  the  point  where  the  fonner 
opens  into  the  valleys,  spread  out  into  tracts  of  several  acres,  aflbrding  a  suflS- 
ciency  of  tillable  land  fur  gardens  and  small  farms.  Some  of  these  streams  are 
fringed  with  cottonwood,  birch,  willow,  wild  cherry,  and  similar  trees,  the  most 


300  RESOURCES    OP   STATES   AXD    TERRITORIES 

of  tliem  small,  and  of  but  little  value,  mixed  witli  which  are  often  vax'ieties  of 
wild  vines,  rose,  cuiTant  or  gooseberry  bushes,  and  other  shrubbery,  ^.Up  the 
most  of  these  canons  it  is  no  difficult  matter  to  construct  wagon  roads  leading 
quite  to  the  summits  of  the  mountains,  a  consideration  of  moment,  as  the  latter, 
the  principal  repositories  of  the  precious  metals,  are  thus  rendered  easily  accessi- 
ble to  loaded  teams  ;  and  these  mountain  ridges  sometimes  ran  for  100  miles  or 
more  without  any  material  deviation  from  their  general  course.  So  also  do  the 
adjacent  valleys  extend  for  a  like  distance  without  other  obstruction  than  perhaps 
an  occasional  butte,  or  outstanding  spm",  and  'with  no  perceptible  variation  of 
level.  Sometimes  these  valleys,  ouang  to  a  subsidence  of  the  mountains,  or  a 
change  in  their  general  course,  expand  into  immense  plains,  as  in  the  southern 
and  northwestern  parts  of  the  State,  or  connect  with  other  valleys  having  the 
same  or  nearly  the  same  level,  or,  may  be,  are  separated  from  the  latter  only  by 
low  ridges  or  swells  of  land  so  inconsiderable  as  to  present  no  obstacle  to  the 
building  of  railroads  throughout  the  entire  series.  A  more  favorable  region  for 
the  construction  of  railways  than  is  offered  by  this  system  of  communicatino-  plains 
and  valle^^s,  especialty  where  these  improvements  are  required  to  pursue  a  gen- 
erally northern  and  southern  direction,  could  not  be  deshed.  Besides,  being  so 
nearly  level,  and  wholly  unobstructed,  the  soil,  for  the  most  part  a  dry  sand,  or 
a  compact  sandy  loam,  affords  the  best  possible  material  for  a  road-bed,  whether 
facility  of  construction  or  durability  be  considered.  Upon  these  plains  and  valleys 
nothing  of  a  vegetable  gTowtli  is  to  be  found  larger  or  more  formidable  of  remo- 
val than  the  wild  sage,  a  shrub  that  can,  as  a  general  thing,  be  ploughed  up 
with  a  single  yoke  of  oxen,  while  their  surfaces  are  almost  entirely  free  from 
rocks,  loose  stones,  or  other  obstructions.  But  while  these  valleys  are,  longitu- 
dinally viewed,  so  nearty  level,  they  all  have  a  slight  descent  from  the  foot  of 
the  adjacent  mountains  to  their  centres,  caused  hy  the  wash  that,  going  on  for" 
years,  has  been  gradually  wearing  down  the  mountains  and  filling  up  the  valleys;. 
The  difference  in  altitude  between  the  tops  of  the  mountains  and  the  level 
of  the  valleys,  now  varying  from  1,000  to  8,000  feet,  was  formerly  much  greater, 
since  at  one  time  the  bottoms  of  the  opposing  mountains  met,  no  doubt,  in  the 
middle  of  the  intervening  valley,  making  the  difference  in  altitude  two  or  thi'ee 
times  as  great  as  at  present.  While  many  of  these  valleys  receive  a  great  num- 
ber of  small  streams  from  the  mountains  on  either  side,  or  about  their  heads,  very 
few  of  them  have  any  large  stream  flowing  through  the  centre,  the  most  of  these  tribu- 
taries sinking  into  the  arid  and  porous  soil  as  soon  as  they  reach  the  edge  of  the 
valley.  As  a  consequence,  the  latter,  few  of  them  having  any  common  outlet, 
are  great  natural  reservoirs ;  but  the  water,  resting  upon  the  bed  rock,  can  only 
be  reached  by  penetrating  the  immense  mass  of  superincumbent  debris.  Hence 
wells  in  these  valleys  require  to  be  sunk  to  a  great  depth,  nor  is  water  always 
obtained  even  then ;  thongli  it  could  no  doubt  be  reached  in  many  places  by 
artesian  boring,  a  mctliod  not  generally  adopted,  if  in  any  instance  yet  resorted 
to  in  this  State.  In  the  few  cases  where  there  is  a  sufficient  accumulation  of 
water  to  cause  a  stream  to  run  througli  the  valley  above  ground,  there  are 
usually  at  points  along  it,  patches  of  alluvial  bottom  constituting  good  plough 
or  grass  lands,  the  tpiantity  generally  being  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  stream. 
Reese  river,  Carson,  Umashaw,  ]\aradise,  and  Franklin  valleys,  afford  good  exam- 
ples of  this  kind.  In  lvul»y,  Big  Smoky,  Degroot,  and  Toquima,  we  have  examples 
of  large  valleys  containing  nuicli  good  land,  yet  without  open  streams  running 
through  them  ;  while  in  the  Great  Salt,  Fairview,  Ralston,  Sinkavata,  and 
Sand  Spring  valleys,  there  is  neither  arable  land  nor  running  water.  In  the 
case  of  the  Big  Smoky  and  similar  valleys,  the  moimtain  streams  after  disappear- 
ing make  their  way  vmderground  towards  their  centres,  where,  meeting  with 
obstructions,  or  gathering  into  natural  basins,  they  saturate  the  earth  and  render 
it  productive.  Much  of  the  soil,  both  in  the  valleys  and  upon  the  mountains,  is 
rich  and  friable,  being  easily  tilled  and  abounding  in  the  elements  of  fruitftilness, 


WEST  OF  Tin:  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  301 

hut  iinnvailalile  for  aii-ncnltural  ))iiri)()>;cs  because  of  its  aridity  aud  tlie  lack  of 
means  for  its  irriii'atiou,  I'otli  tlie  oj)Cu  plains  and  the  moie  contracted  valleys 
are,  for  the  most  part,  destitute  of  timber,  the  only  exceptit)ns  being  where  they 
are  tra^•el•sed  by  considerable  streams,  as  the  valleys  of  the  Carson,  Walker, 
Truckee,  and  Ihnnbohlt  rivers,  along'  which  are  a  few  scattered  cottonwodds 
and  copse  of  willow,  there  being  no  other  trees,  large  or  small,  along  them.  Both 
the  valleys,  plains,  and  mountains  are,  in  some  sections  of  the  country,  wholly 
destitute  of  wood,  and  but  ill  supplied  with  grass  and  water,  the  latter,  where 
it  does  occur,  being  often  so  impregnated  with  mineral  substances  as  to  render  it 
unwholesome,  or  so  warm  as  to  be  unfit  for  immediate  use.  Several  of  the  more 
extended  of  these  jdains  are  so  arid  and  ban-en  as  to  justly  merit  the  appellation 
of  ''desert,''  popularly  applied  to  them.  The  regions  most  strongly  marked  in 
this  respect  are  those  adjacent  to  the  sinks  of  the  Humboldt  and  Carson,  the 
vicinity  of  the  Big  jNIud  lakes,  and  the  belt  of  country  stretching  from  the  Great 
Salt  valley  of  Chm-chill  count}^  south  through  the  centre  of  the  State,  and 
spreading  out  in  the  desolate  and  sandy  wastes  that  suiTonnd  Deatb  valley  and 
the  sink  of  the  Amargosa,  reputed  to  be  depressed  many  Hsci  below^  the  level  of 
the  sea.  The  characterizing  of  these  sections,  however,  as  peculiarly  sterile  does 
not  imply  that  there  are  not  many  other  considerable  tracts  in  the  State  almost 
e(]ually  worthless,  the  only  difference  being  in  their  more  contracted  area.  To 
this  system  of  mountains,  valleys,  aud  plains,  the  latter  so  spread  out,  and  often 
connected  together,  as  to  constitute  a  series  of  basins,  each  having  a  drainage  of 
its  own,  but  no  outlet  to  the  sea,  Nevada  is  indebted  for  its  singular  hydrogra- 
phy, this  common  receptacle  of  its  gathered  waters  becoming,  according  to  cir- 
cumstances, a  lake,  sink,  meadow,  alkali  flat,  or  a  salt  bed.  , 

Sinks,  Sloughs  axd  Lakes. — The  only  waters  of  Nevada  that  are  supposed 
to  reach  the  ocean  consist  of  a  few  inconsiderable  streams  in  the  northern,  and 
a  still  smaller  number  in  the  southern  part  of  the  State.  The  former  are  tribu- 
taries of  the  Owyhie  and  the  Snake  rivers,  and  the  latter  of  the  Colorado.  With 
these  exceptions  all  the  surface  flow  of  the  country  is  collected  in  lakes,  none  of 
them  of  large  size  and  most  of  them  extremely  shallow,  and  in  sinhs,  a  name 
popularly  applied  to  a  certain  class  of  these  lakes  from  the  circumstance  that  the 
streams  emptying  into  them  or  received  from  other  lakes  are  here  supposed  to 
sink  and  finally  disappear  beneath  the  smface.  The  idea,  however,  is  erroneous, 
as  these  bodies  of  water,  while  they  are  not  deep,  arc  quite  as  permanent  as  any 
other,  though  fluctuating  in  area  with  the  size  of  the  streams  by  which  they  are 
fed.  Most  of  the  mountain  streams  in  this  State  do  sink,  as  already  stated,  as 
soon  as  they  reach  the  j)lains  or  valleys.  Some  of  the  larger  streams  flowing 
through  the  latter,  as  lieese  river,'  also  disappear  in  like  manner,  being  absorbed 
by  the  earth  without  accumulating  at  any  point  in  a  lake.  These  are  the  only 
cases  to  w-hich  the  tenn  sink  properly  applies.  The  fact  that  some  of  these  lakes 
having  no  visible  outlet  receive  each  a  large  stream  without  overflowing  its 
banks,  or  being  greatly  raised  even  W'hen  these  tributaries  are  at  high  stages  of 
water,  has  led  to  the  suj)position  that  they  connnunicate  with  the  sea,  or  perhaps 
with  subteiTanean  lakes,  through  underground  passages.  The  consideration, 
however,  that  but  comparatively  little  rain  or  snow  ever  falls  in  this  I'cgion, 
while  the  extreme  dryness  of  the  atmosphere  and  the  soil  causes  evaporation  and 
absoi-ption  to  go  on  rapidly,  dispenses  in  a  great  measure  with  the  necessity  for 
such  a  theoiy.  The  only  lakes  of  any  considerable  size  in  Nevada  are  those 
formed  by  the  Hund)oldt,  Walker,  Carson  and  Franklin  rivers,  and  bearing  the 
names  of  these  streams  respectively,  together  with  Pyramid  lake,  the  largest  of 
the  group,  formed  by  the  waters  of  Truckee  river.  To  Lake  Tahoe,  lying  one- 
third  within  its  limits,  Nevada  can  only  advance  a  con-esponding  claim.  By  the 
the  early  emigrants  tlie  name  Sink  was  given  to  Humboldt  lake,  and  a  large 
shallow  lake  situate  in  the  northern  part  of  Churchill  county  is  still  called  the 


302  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

SlnJc  of  the  Carson,  from  the  fact  that  it  receives  the  sm-plus  waters  of  that  river 
through  a  sluggish  tortuous  stream,  in  some  places  having  numerous  channels, 
and  in  this  country  generally  designated  a  slough.     There  is  also  a  slough  run-- 
ning  from  Hamboldt  lake  to  this  sink,  through  ■5\hich  the  former,  at  high  stages, 
discharges  its  water.     Through  a  similar  channel  Pyramid  lake,  when  above  its 
ordinary  level,  sends  its  water  into  "VVinnemucca  lake,  a  large  shallow  basin 
lying  east  of  Pyramid,  and  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year  nearly  dry.     In  addition 
to  the  above  there  are  small  lakes  and  ponds  in  Degroot,  Franklin,  and  various 
valleys  in  the  State,  the  waters  of  which  are  in  some  cases  fresh  and  pellucid, 
while  in  others  they  are  more  or  less  opaque  and  impm-e.     About  these  ponds, 
which  are  mostly  shallow,  there  is  often  a  body  of  good  gTazing  or  agricul- 
tural land.     Lake  Tahoe,  which  has  a  depth  of  over  1,500  feet,  is  of  an  in-eg- 
ular  oval  shape,  21  miles  long  and  10  miles  ^vide,  and,  though  elevated  more 
than  6,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  it  never  freezes  over,  nor  does  the 
temperature  of  the  water  vary  much  from  57°  winter  or  summer,  a  circumstance 
owing,  probably,  to  its  being  fed  largely  by  springs.     That  it  receives  most  of 
its  supplies  from  this  source  is  evident  from  the  fact  that  it  has  but  one  tributary 
stream  of  any  magnitude,  while  its  outlet,  Truckee  river,  canies  a  heavy  body 
of  water.     This  lake,  like  Pyramid,  abounds  in  trout  of  large  size  and  fine 
flavor,  and  is  sm'rounded  on  every  side  by  lofty  mountains,  which,  rising  abruptly 
from  its  shores,  are  covered  for  nearly  two-thu'ds  of  the  year  with  snow.     These 
mountains  are  heavily  timbered  with  forests  of  pine,  spruce  and  fir.     Pyramid 
lake,  the  largest  body  of  water  wdiolly  within  the  limits  of  the  State,  is  about 
30  miles  long  and  12  wide,  and  is  situate  in  the  southern  part  of  Roop  county, 
near  the  western  line  of  the  State.     This  lake,  which  derives  its  name  from  a 
p}a-amidal  rock  standing  near  its  centre  and  rising  600  feet  above  its  surface, 
has  an  elevation  of  about  4,000  feet  above  tide  level.     Like  the  Walker,  it  has  a 
considerable  depth,  and  the  scenery  about  it  is  extremely  grand,  it  being  walled 
round  with  precipitous  mountains  rising  from  2,000  to  3,000  feet  high.     Walker 
lake  has  about  the  same  altitude  and  length,  but  is  not  so  wide  as  P}Tamid,  its 
average  width  not  being  over  six  or  seven  miles.     Like  the  latter  it  is  of  an 
irregular  oblong  shape.     The  shores  are  indented  ■udth  numerous  small  bays. 
Besides  an  inferior  species  of  fish  it  contains  the  salmon  trout ;  but  the  latter  are 
not  so  large,  numerous  or  well  flavored  as  in   Pyramid  or  Lake  Tahoe,  the 
water  here  being  neither  so  deep  nor  pure.     Walker  lake  is  flanked  on  both  sides 
by  high  mountains  and  rugged  hills,  the  whole  extremely  arid  and  baiTcn,  almost 
entirely  destitute  of  wood,  grass  or  water.     Carson  lake  has  a  diameter  of  about 
12  miles;  Ilumbold  and  Franklin  are  somewhat  smaller.     They  are  all  of  an 
irregular  circular  or  oval  shape,  have  low,  flat  shores,  and  are  nowhere  over  50 
or  00  feet  deep.     Iliey  contain  no  fish  except  suckers  and  others  of  an  inferior 
kind,  the  water  of  tliese,  as  well  as  most  of  the  other  small  lakes  and  ponds  in 
the  country,  being  brackish  and  slightly  alkaline — that  of  Humboldt  lake  and 
Carson  sink  so  much  so  as  to  render  the  fish  quite  unpalatable  and  hardly  fit 
for  culinary  purposes.     The  same  is  true  of  the  water  in  most  of  the  sloughs, 
and  also  in  some  of  the  rivers,  especially  the  Humboldt,  which  becomes  greatly 
deteriorated  at  its  lower  stages,  particularly  as  it  approaches  the  lake.     Washoe, 
Toshepah,  Pueblo  and  Guano  are  all  small  and  shallow  lakes,  the  water  of  which 
is  in  some  cases  clear  and  sweet,  while  in  others  it  is  discolored  with  earthy  matter, 
or  so  impregnated  with  salt,  soda  or  other  substances  as  to  render  it  distasteful 
If  not  unwholesome.     About  some  of  these  lakes,  as  well  as  along  a  few  of  the 
rivers,  occur  patches  of  tule  lands,  or  ground  overflowed  at  high  water  and  cov- 
ered -with  a  species  of  large-sized  bulrush.     Where  susceptible  of  easy  drainage, 
these  patches  can  readily  be  converted  into  excellent  meadows.     The  most  exten- 
sive" tracts  of  this  land  are  found  at  the  mouth  of  the  Humboldt  river,  around 
Carson  lake  and  sink,  and  above  Genoa  on  C;uson  river,  along  the  west  shore 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  30.'^ 

of  Franklin,  and  at  the  outlet  of  Waslioo  lake,  smaller  patclios  being  met  with 
at  the  sinks  of  the  Ihnashaw,  Weatherlow,  and  "Weniissa  creeks,  Iliunboldt 
county,  and  aronnd  several  small  lakes  in  Franklin  valley,  liander  eoniity. 

As  Honey,  Mono  and  Owens  lakes,  thou<;^h  not  within  tlu^  boundaries  of  Nevada, 
all  lie  \\est  of  the  Sierra,  and  f(n-ni  a  part  of  the  system  of  valleys  and  lakes 
strctchin<^  alonj^  the  western  rim  of  the  Great  Basin,  the  lirst  two  bein<:^  very 
near  the  line  of  this  State,  it  Tnay  be  proper  to  give  here  a  passing  description 
of  them.  Honey  Lake,  so  named  from  the  honey-dew  abundantly  precipitated 
throughout  this  region  during  the  summer  months,  is  a  small  and  very  shallow 
body  of  water,  even  at  high  stages,  and  wholly  disappears  in  extremely  dry  seasons. 
Its  principal  continents,  Willow  creek  and  Susan  river,  sink  into  the  tulo  marsh 
before  reaching  the  lake,  the  shores  of  which  are  in  some  places  low  and  swampy, 
while  in  others  they  are  dry  and  elevated.  It  has  no  outlet,  and  is  destitute  of 
lish,  the  water  being  strongly  alkaline.  To  the  west  of  the  lake  is  an  extensive 
valley,  skirted  by  the  Sierra  Nevada  in  that  direction,  a  strip  of  hilly  country 
separating  it  from  P\Tamid  and  Mud  lakes  on  the  east.  Jlono  lake,  lying  about 
10  miles  southwest  of  the  dividing  line  between  California  and  Nevada,  derives 
its  name  from  the  tribe  of  Indians  originally  inhabiting  the  vicinity.  It  is  about 
14  miles  long  and  9  wide,  and,  though  never  sounded,  is  supposed  from  the  con- 
figuration of  the  adjacent  mountains  to  bo  very  deep;  some  trials  said  to  have 
been  made  with  a  300-foot  line  failed  to  reach  bottom.  It  has  been  suggested 
that  the  bed  of  this  lake  is  the  centre  of  an  extinct  volcano  filled  np  with  water, 
a  hypothesis  that  assumes  plausibility  from  the  crater-like  form  of  one  of  its 
islands,  as  well  as  of  numerous  small  mountains  in  the  neighborhood.  By  chem- 
ical analysis  a  gallon  of  this  water  weighing  eight  pounds  is  found  to  contain 
1,200  grains  of  solid  matter  consisting  principally  of  chloride  of  sodium,  (com- 
mon salt,)  carbonate  of  soda,  borax,  sulphate  of  soda,  (glauber  salt,)  and  silica, 
with  indications  of  the  presence  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen.  Holding  such  a  large 
percentage  of  these  substances  in  solution  the  water  of  this  lake  is,  of  course,  so 
acid  and  nauseating  as  to  render  it  not  only  nnfit  for  drinking  but  even  for 
bathing.  Leather  immersed  in  it  is  soon  destroyed  b}'^  its  coiTosive  properties, 
and  no  animal,  not  even  a  fish  or  frog,  can  for  more  than  a  short  time  exist  in 
it.  The  wild  fowl  in  visiting  it  keep  about  the  mouths  of  the  creeks,  where  the 
lake  water  is  mixed  with  that  flowing  from  the  mountains.  The  only  thing 
able  to  live  within  or  upon  the  waters  of  this  lake  is  a  species  of  fly,  which, 
spiinging  from  a  larvse  bred  in  its  bosom,  after  an  ephemeral  life,  dies,  and  col- 
lecting on  the  surface,  is  drifted  to  the  shore,  where  the  remains  collect  in  great 
quantities,  to  be  fed  upon  by  the  ducks  or  gathered  by  the  Indians,  with  wliom 
this  forms  a  staple  comestible.  Nestling  under  the  eastern  water-shed  of  the 
Sierra,  this  lake  receives  several  considerable  tributaries;  and,  although  desti- 
tute of  any  outlet,  such  is  the  aridity  of  the  atmosphere  that  it  is  always  kept  at 
nearly  the  same  level  by  the  process  of  evaporation.  So  dense  and  sluggish  is 
the  water  rendered  through  supersaturation  with  various  salts  and  other  foreign 
matters,  that  none  but  the  strongest  winds  can  raise  a  ripple  on  its  surface.  As 
the  Sierra  in  this  neighborhood  reaches  nearly  its  greatest  altitude,  the  scenery 
about  ^lono  is  varied  and  majestic,  some  portions  of  it  being  at  the  same  time 
marked  by  a  most  cheerless  and  desolate  aspect.  This  lake  may  aptly  be  tenned 
a  dead  sea,  its  bitter  and  fatal  waters  rendering  it  literally  such,  while  all  its 
suiTonndings — wild,  gloomy  and  foreboding — are  highly  suggestive  of  sterility 
and  death.  Owen's  lake,  lying  to  the  south  of  INlono,  though  somewhat  larger 
and  not  so  deep,  does  not  otherwise  differ  materially  from  the  latter.  It  has  the 
Sien-a  on  the  west  for  a  back  ground,  while  its  water  is  almost  equally  saline 
and  bitter.  Like  Mono,  it  has  no  outlet ;  and,  though  receiving  the  waters  of 
Owen's  river,  a  large  and  rapid  stream,  its  surface  is  observed  t(j  he  every  year 
getting  lower,  a  process  that  its  former  shore-line  marks  indicate  to  have  been 
going  on  for  a  long  time.     This  subsiding  for  the  last  five  years  has  been  at  the 


304  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND   TERRITORIES 

rate  of  nearly  two  feet  per  year.  Former  beach  lines  along  the  shores  of  Mono 
lake  indicate  that  it  has  in  like  maftner  fallen  by  gradual  stages  many  feet  below 
its  ancient  level.  The  larvae  generating  the  insect  found  on  Mono  lake  also 
breed  abundantly  in  these  waters,  being  the  only  form  of  animal  life  adapted 
to  live  in  or  about  them.  The  decomposing  action  of  this  water  is  shown  by  its 
effect  upon  the  bodies  of  a  company  of  Indians,  some  20  or  30  in  number,  who, 
while  seeking  to  escape  the  whites  several  years  ago,  having  taken  refuge  in  the 
lake,  were  there  shot  by  their  pursuers,  who  left  them  in  the  water.  In  the  course 
of  a  few  weeks  not  a  vestige  of  their  bodies  was  to  be  seen,  even  the  bones  ha%ang 
been  decomposed  by  this  powerful  solvent. 

Alkali  Flats  and  Mud  Lakes. — The  surface  of  many  of  the  plains  and 
valleys  in  this  State  being  composed  of  a  stiff  clay  nearly  impervious  to  water, 
and  at  the  same  time  quite  level  or  but  slightly  basin-shaped,  are  readily  con- 
verted, dm'ing  wet  weather,  into  shallow  lakes,  some  of  which  exist  but  for  a 
few  days,  while  others  last  until  the  dry  season  comes  on,  a  few  sometimes  con- 
tinuing tliroughout  the  year.  These  bodies  of  water,  though  often  covering  a 
large  area,  are  rarely  more  than  a  foot  or  two  deep.  When  drying  np  they 
usually  leave  behind  a  slight  deposit  of  argillacious  sediment,  to  which  circum- 
stance and  their  generally  miry  condition  they  are  indebted  for  the  name  mud 
Jake,  commonly  applied  to  them.  When  covered  with  water,  or  even  but  mod- 
erately wet,  these  spots  are  mostly  impassable  to  teams  or  even  horsemen.  To 
obviate  this  difficult}^  roads  require  to  be  thrown  np  and  impacted  by  travel  during 
the  dry  season.  Besides  this  clayey  sediment  many  of  these  lakes  on  drying  up 
deposit  a  variet}'  of  salts,  the  most  of  them  of  alkaline  nature,  whence  the  name 
alkali  flat  given  them  when  in  this  condition.  These  salts  are  white,  and  glisten 
in  the  sun,  so  that  these  localities  are  very  hot  in  summer  as  well  as  trying  to 
the  eyes  of  persons  crossing  them.  When  dry  their  beds  become  so  hard  that 
the  hoof  of  an  animal  or  even  the  tire  of  loaded  wagons  leaves  but  a  slight  impres- 
sion. In  some  instances  while  the  greater  portions  of  these  flats  become  dry 
and  hard,  others  remain  moist,  the  water  in  places  coming  to  within  a  few  inches 
of  the  surface.  From  these  damp  spots  a  constant  efHorescence  of  saline  matter 
goes  on.  The  sublimated  particles  are  left  upon  the  surface  or  adhere  to  the 
shrubbery  if  there  be  any  near  by.  The  most  of  these  desiccated  lakes,  however, 
are  wholly  without  vegetation,  not  even  the  artemesia  being  able  to  take  root 
upon  them.  These  spots,  so  transformed  alternately  into  mud  lakes  and  alkali 
flats,  are  also  the  localities  of  the  salt  beds  and  marslies  characteristic  of  this 
country.  Though  met  with  in  nearly  every  part  of  Nevada,  the  most  exten- 
sive occur  in  the  northwestern,  central  and  southern  portions  of  the  State,  where, 
in  the  wet  season,  some  of  them  cover  more  than  a  hundred  square  miles. 

RiVEKs  AND  Stkeams. — In  proportion  to  its  size  Nevada  has,  perhaps,  fewer 
large  streams  than  any  other  State  or  Territory  in  the  Union ;  none  of  those 
within  its  limits  being  navigable,  and  not  more  than  four  or  five  justly  entitled 
to  be  called  rivers.  Tlie  Ilumboldt,  the  largest  and  longest  river  in  the  State, 
is  at  ordinary  stages  fordable  at  many  places,  as  are  all  the  others  nearly  every- 
where along  them.  But,  while  possessing  so  few  rivers,  this  State  contains  a 
great  number  of  small  streams,  which,  issuing  from  the  various  mountain  ranges, 
afford  an  extensive  propulsive  power  and  means  of  irrigation.  As  a  general 
thing  the  rivers  have  a  swift  current,  with  occasional  rapids,  though  nothing  like 
a  cataract  exists  in  any  part  of  the  State.  The  most  of  the  mountain  streams 
have  a  great  descent,  some  of  them  falling  a  thousand  feet  every  two  or  three 
miles.  Where  running  through  valleys  or  plains,  the  immediate  banks  of  the 
streams  are  apt  to  be  low;  in  the  case  of  the  smaller  ones  only  a  few  feet  above 
the  water,  though  some  have  higher  benches  further  back.  Reese  river,  for 
example,  flowing  through  a  channel  having  nearly  parallel  banks,  is  scarcely 
anywhere  more  than  10  or  15  feet  below  the  adjacent  plain.  Except  towards 
its  terminus  it  never  dries  up,  and  rarely  ever  overflows  its  banks.     At  one  point 


WEST  OF  THE  KOCKY  MOUNTAINS.  305 

it  ili.-'apiH'ars  for  several  miles,  liavhiix  no  eliaunel  aliove  fifrotuid.  The  water 
here  is  clitru!>ed  tlirongliout  the  soil,  lonuii)g',  by  a  system  of  iititm'al  irrigation, 
an  extensive  meadow.  Below  this  it  reappears  at  several  points,  and  being 
tinally  eolleeted  again  in  one  ehannel  ilows  on  as  before.  Tliis  stream  has  an 
average  width  of  lo  feet  and  a  depth  of  about  two  feet.  After  pursuing  its 
course  for  more  than  a  hundred  miles  it  begins  to  diminish,  standing  only  in 
pools,  and  tinally  disappearing  altogether.  During  high  stages  of  water  it  runs 
for  a  greater  distance,  making  its  way  nearly  to  the  IIund)oldt,  where  it  termi- 
nates in  a  tule  swamp,  which  dries  up  in  one  summer.  Weatherlow,  AVamissa, 
Umashaw,  and  several  other  considerable  creeks  in  tlie  State  resemble  Reese 
river  in  their  leading  features.  The  most  of  them  in  like  manner  terminate  in 
small  fens,  usually  called  sinks.  Nearly  all  tlie  running  waters  of  the  Nevada 
are  palatable  and  wholesome.  That  of  the  mountain  streams  is  always  excel- 
lent. In  most  of  the  sloughs  it  is  disagreeably  brackish,  which  is  also  the  case 
in  the  Humboldt  river,  and  soiue  other  of  the  larger  streams,  pai'ticularly  at  low 
stages  of  water,  the  impurities  increasing  as  the  stream  descends.  In  consequence 
of  waste  from  evaporation  and  absorption  most  of  the  larger  streams  lose  as 
much  Avater  from  these  causes  as  they  gain  from  their  tributaries,  rendering  them 
sometimes  larger  near  their  soiu-ces  than  at  points  further  down.  The  Ilmnboldt, 
for  instance,  a  stream  about  40  yards  wide  and  four  feet  deep,  is  scarcely  so  large 
where  it  enters  the  lake  as  it  is  200  miles  above.  The  AValker  and  Carson  riv- 
ers are  also  smaller  where  they  empty  into  their  respective  lakes  than  at  points 
higher  up.  The  Truckee,  though  not  so  large,  being  a  more  rajiid  stream,  dis- 
chai'ges  a  greater  volume  of  water  throughout  the  year  than  the  Humboldt.  In 
point  of  size.  Walker  river  ranks  next  to  the  Truckee.  Carson  river  has  an 
average  width  of  20  yards,  with  a  depth  of  three  feet,  and  is  about  two-thirds 
the  size  of  AValker.  Franklin  river  is  a  much  smaller  stream  than  Carson.  The 
entire  length  of  the  Humboldt,  including  its  two  main  forks,  is  over  300  miles. 
That  of  the  others  is  much  less.  Both  the  Humboldt,  Carson,  and  Walker  riv- 
ers are  foraied  by  the  irnion  of  two  main  forks  or  branches,  below  which  none  of 
them  have  a  single  affluent  of  any  size,  the  Walker  none  whatever.  Trackeo 
river,  issuing  a  large  stream  from  Lake  Tahoe,  receives  a  numl)er  of  tributaries 
before  leaving  the  mountains,  after  which,  though  not  enlarged  by  any  iiHluents, 
it  preseiTcs  a  nearly  unifonn  volume,  running  with  a  swift  current  until  it  empties 
into  Pyramid  lake.  The  water  of  this  stream  is  cold  and  pure  throughout  its 
entire  course,  and,  as  it  has  a  great  descent,  it  could  be  made  to  supply  an  immense 
propulsive  power.  That  it  will  be  largely  diverted  to  this  use,  as  soon  as  the  Cen- 
tral Pacific  railroad  is  completed,  admits  of  no  doubt,  since  this  improvement  fol- 
lows along  its  banks  for  more  than  50  miles,  nearly  half  the  distance  throiigh  heavy 
forests  of  spruce  and  pine,  which  supply,  in  connection  with  the  extensive  water 
powei",  gi'eat  advantages  for  the  manufacture  of  lumber.  The  Humboldt  river 
takes  its  rise  in  the  Goose  Creek  mountains,  in  the  northwestern  comer  of  the 
State,  whence,  running  in  a  westerly  com-se  about  250  miles,  it  deflects  to  the 
south,  and  flowing  50  miles  farther  falls  into  Humboldt  lake.  It  runs  through  a 
tortuous  charmel  with  a  moderate  current,  falling  about  500  feet  while  ti'avcrsing 
a  distance  of  250  miles.  It  passes  through  an  exceedingly  dry  and  sterile 
country.  The  only  good  land  is  comprised  in  a  naiTow  l)elt  of  alluvion  along  its 
immediate  banks.  While  this  belt  contracts  at  some  points  to  very  narrow  limits, 
or  disappears  altogether,  it  expands  at  a  few  others,  as  at  Lassen's  meadows, 
into  grassy  bottoms  of  consideral)le  extent.  During  the  period  of  high  water, 
which  occurs  on  the  melting  of  the  snow  in  the  mountains  about  its  sources,  in 
the  months  of  April,  ^lay,  and  June,  the  river  is  swollen  to  a  size  somewhat 
larger  than  above  stated,  occasi(jnally  overflowing  its  banks,  while  at  low  water 
it  shrinks  into  smaller  dimensions,  a  condition  connnon  to  most  of  the  otlier  largo 
streams  in  the  State.  The  only  tree  found  in  the  valley  of  the  Humboldt  is  a  spe- 
cies of  small  willow,  growing  on  the  banks  of  the  stream.  Nothing  but  a  littlo 
20 


306  EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

scrubby  juniper  and  pine,  and  these  very  sparsely,  is  met  with  upon  any  of  the 
mountains  adjacent.  In  the  Goose  Creek  range,  however,  about  its  head  waters, 
there  are  some  groves  of  hirge-sized  timber,  with  fair  supphes  of  bunch  grass 
and  water.  The  grass  along  the  river  bank  consists  of  several  wild  varieties, 
such  as  wire,  rye,  blue,  clover,  and  bunch,  some  of  which  are  so  injurious  to 
stock  that  experienced  drovers  will  not  allow  their  cattle  to  feed  upon  them,  but 
drive  them  into  the  mountains,  where  the  grass,  though  less  abundant,  is  more 
nutritious  and  wholesome.  The  only  fish  found  in  this  stream,  or  the  lake  into 
which  it  discharges,  are  minnows,  of  little  value.  During  the  summer  the  Hum- 
boldt swarms  with  mosquitoes,  gnats,  sandflies  and  other  trouldesome  insects. 
These  pests  are  very  numerous  along  the  lower  portions  of  the  river  and  about 
the  lake. 

In  their  leading  featm-es  and  surroundings  the  Trnckee,  Carson,  and  Walker 
rivers  do  not,  except  as  to  size,  differ  materially  from  the  Humboldt,  having  first 
a  narrow  and  partially  fertile  valley  near  their  immediate  banks,  "vnth  another 
much  more  extensive,  but  wholly  barren,  lying  some^\•hat  higher  and  stretching 
away  to  the  base  of  the  mountain  ranges  that  bound  them  on  either  hand.  The 
cotton  woods  that  once  formed  a  naiTow  fringe,  or  stood  in  small  clumps  along 
these  streams,  have  mostly  been  cut  down,  and  there  is  little  left  except  a  willow 
copse  to  mark  the  meanderings  of  the  rivers  through  the  plains,  or  their  passage 
through  the  deep  canons  that  sometimes  occur  along  their  routes.  These  canons, 
by  subdividing  the  main  valley  into  difi'erent  parts,  sometimes  cause  the  waters 
of  the  same  river  to  be  designated  by  separate  names.  After  leaving  the  moun- 
tains from  which  they  all  take  their  rise,  there  is,  with  the  exception  of  a  little 
willow  and  the  few  cottonwoods  mentioned,  no  timber  along  any  of  the  streams 
in  this  State  or  in  the  valleys  through,  which  they  flow.  In  Ileese  River  valley, 
proper,  more  than  100  miles  long,  there  is  not  a  stick  of  timber  large  enough 
For  a  fence  rail,  and  nearly  all  the  other  valleys  and  plains  in  the  country  are 
equally  destitute  of  timber. 

The  Spiiings  of  Nevada. — These  abound  in  many  parts  of  the  State,  and 
are  to  the  economist  not  more  objects  of  value  on  account  of  their  utility  than 
of  interest  to  the  scientist  because  of  their  size,  temperature,  modes  of  occuiTcnce, 
chemical  properties,  and  other  natural  peculiarities.  They  are  met  with  at  all 
altitudes,  and  often  under  such  strange  conditions  as  justly  entitle  them  to  be 
considered  geological  curiosities.  They  are  found  on  the  mountain  sides,  in  the 
valleys,  and  far  out  on  the  desert — large,  small,  deep,  shallow,  cold,  hot,  and 
tepid.  Some  are  in  a  state  of  ebullition,  leaping  up  with  a  gurgling  sound,  as 
if  heated  by  fierce  fires  below,  while  others  are  quiescent.  Some  are  pellucid 
and  perf(!ctly  pure,  while  others  are  impregnated  ^ith  a  great  variety  of  mineral 
and  metallic  substances.  In  some  places  they  occur  solitary  and  at  others  in 
groups,  as  many  as  a  hundred  being  found  within  an  area  of  a  few  acres.  In 
temperature  they  range  from  50  to  204  degrees,  the  latter  about  the  boiling  point 
of  water  in  this  region.  In  diameter  they  vary  from  1  to  100  feet,  and  in  depth 
from  3  or  4  to  150.  In  shape  they  incline  to  be  circular,  many  of  them  being 
perfectly  round,  with  funnel-shaped  or  perpendicular  well-like  walls.  The  min- 
eral and  thermal  springs  are  generally  situated  on  a  mound  formed  from  the  silicious 
or  calcareous  particles  brought  up  and  deposited  by  their  own  waters.  Some  of 
these  mounds  cover  several  acres  and  reach  a  height  of  50  or  60  feet,  or  even 
more.  In  some  cases  the  walls  of  the  springs  are  formed  of  these  limy  or  sili- 
cious concretions,  which,  shap"d  into  huge  basins,  lift  them  several  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  mounds,  while  in  others  they  are  composed  simply  of  earth  or  turf. 
The  water  in  most  of  them  is  soft  and  palatable  when  cold,  and  so  clear  that  the 
smallest  object  can  be  seen  at  a  great  depth,  even  the  minute  orifices  through 
which  the  water  enters  at  the  bottom  of  the  deepest  spring  being  visible.  Fre- 
quently a  hot  and  a  cold  spring  are  in  such  proximity  that  a  person  can  dip  one 
hand  into  each  at  the  same  time.     From  some  a  small,  and  fi-om  a  few  quite  a 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY   MOUNTAINS.  307 

larije,  stream  of  water  issues,  while  in  others  the  water  merely  keeps  even  with 
tlie  top,  or  (h»es  not  rise  so  hiijli.  Some  of  these  sprin<rs  emit  an  odor  of  sul- 
phuix'tied  hydroiren,  ami  taste  sliirhtly  of  sulphur,  while  others  ha\'e  a  (•lialyl)eate 
taste.  Analytical  tests  of  the  waters  from  the  more  hig-lily  mineralized  of  these 
sprinirs  show  them  to  contain,  in  various  proportions,  tlie  chlorides  of  sodium  and 
mafirnesium,  with  soda  in  different  forms  and  a  small  {lercentacfc  of  lime,  sulpliur, 
silica  inm,  and  orijanic  matter.  A  few  of  these  have  an  intermitting;  or  tidal 
action,  the  water  coming  to  the  surface  with  a  gurgling-  sound  and  sinking  away 
every  few  miimtes,  this  subsidence  sometimes  continuing  for  a  mucli  longer  period 
— occasionally  for  weeks,  or  perhaps  months.  The  mounds  and  orifices  of  ancient 
tbermals  ^e  ^frequently  met  with,  being  now  destitute  of  water,  a  condition  to 
whicli  many  seem  rapidly,  and  perhaps  all  are  gi-adually,  approaching. 

These  fountains,  both  mineral  and  theniial,  are  much  frequented  by  the  Indians 
for  their  supposed  medicinal  virtues;  and  that  some  of  them  do  possess  valuable 
curative  properties  has  been  abundantly  shown  by  the  benefits  coufeiTed  through 
their  use  upon  mtiltitudes  of  invalids  who,  during  the  past  few  j'ears,  have  had 
recourse  to  them.  Some  of  the  cold  springs,  especially  those  in  the  larger  val- 
leys, are  quite  as  limpid  as  the  thermals,  while  they  are  often  not  only  larger 
and  deeper,  Itut  also  freer  from  mineral  substances  than  the  latter.  It  frequently 
happens  that  the  mountain  streams,  after  sinking,  reappear  in  the  form  of  springs 
near  the  margin  or  out  in  tlie  middle  of  the  valleys;  and  while  some  of  these  are 
small  or  of  but  moderate  size,  others  are  innnense  pools,  being  from  10  U)  100 
feet  in  diameter,  and  often  100  feet  or  more  in  depth,  some  of  them  sending  oif 
large  streams  of  water.  Not  all  the  cold  springs,  however,  are  free  from  distaste- 
ful and  deleterious  matters,  some  being  so  repulsive  that  even  animals,  though 
suffering  from  thirst,  refuse  to  drink  from  them. 

The  most  remarkable  group  of  thermals  in  this  State  is  that  known  as  the 
Steamboat  Springs,  so  called  because,  when  first  discovered,  they  are  said  to 
have  emitted  a  puffing  noise  something  like  that  of  a  high-pressure  steamboat. 
The  only  sound  escaping  from  them  at  present  is  a  seething,  gurgling  noise  like 
that  of  a  boiling  caldi'on.  These  springs  are  situated  in  Washoe  county,  altout 
16  miles  north  of  Carson  City  and  four  east  from  the  SieiTa,  near  a  range  of  low 
basaltic  hills,  an  extensive  flow  of  this  rock  overlying  granite.  They  occupy 
a  rocky  mound  about  half  a  mile  long  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide,  having  an 
elevation  of  50  or  60  feet  above  the  adjacent  valley.  This  mound,  which  is 
composed  wholly  of  silicious  matter  deposited  by  the  waters,  is  rent  longitudi- 
nally by  a  number  of  irregular,  scraggy-edged  fissures,  from  six  inches  to  a  foot 
in  width,  caused,  apparently,  by  some  upheaving  force  from  below.  Gurgling 
up  through  the.se  chasms,  which  probably  extend  to  the  bottom  of  the  mound, 
come,  at  intervals  of  a  few  minutes,  volumes  of  hot  water,  which,  after  hissing 
and  toaming  for  a  minute  or  two,  subside,  leaving  the  aperture  again  nearly 
emjity.  From  some  of  these  openings  small  jets  of  steam  constantly  escape, 
accompanied  with  the  emission  of  gas.  Besides  these  fissures  there  are  pools 
filled  with  hot  water,  one  of  which,  occupying  a  basin  three  feet  in  diameter  and 
one  foot  high,  built  tip  by  the  deposition  of  solid  matter  held  in  solution  by  the 
water,  rises  and  falls  with  great  regularity  every  six  minutes.  For  about  five 
minutes  the  water  left  in  the  bottom  of  this  basin  remains  quiescent,  when  it 
gradually  rises,  the  ebullition  increasing  until  it  nins  over  the  rim,  when  it  again 
subsides,  the  agitation  lasting  a  little  over  a  minute.  By  throwing  a  few  ounces 
of  soap  into  this  basin  the  water,  after  rising  and  falling  a  few  times,  as  usual, 
V>egins  to  boil  with  fury,  throwing  up  the  spray  six  or  eight  feet  and  sending  off 
volumes  of  steam.  In  this  manner  its  action  can  for  hours  be  preternaturally 
excited,  with  varying  degrees  of  energy,  until  it  finally  comes  to  rest,  the  water 
disappearing  entirely  from  the  basin,  and  not  rising  again  for  some  time,  as  if 
exhausted  ])y  these  vehement  exertions.  The  temperature  of  the  hottest  of  these 
springs  is  204°  Fahienheit,  this  being  about  the  boiling  point  of  water  at  that 


308  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

altitude.  The  temperature  of  others,  however,  is  much  lower.  The  air  ahoni 
the  spot  smells  of  sulphur,  the  ground  in  the  vicinity  being  in  places  impreg- 
nated with  that  mineral.  Along  the  eastern  base  of  the  tumulus  on  which  the 
springs  are  situated  flows  a  rivulet  pure  and  cool,  till  it  mingles  with  the  wann 
and  mineralized  water  of  the  latter.  At  times  the  chemical  agents  at  work  here 
seem  more  active  than  at  others,  the  sounds  •emitted  being  louder  and  more  fre- 
quent and  the  steam  more  abundant.  It  is  even  probable  that  a  gradual  but 
general  subsidence  of  action  is  going  on,  as  the  loud  puffing  sounds  said  to  have 
been  observed  here  when  the  springs  were  first  discovered,  some  20  years  ago, 
are  no  longer  heard.  The  country  about  also  affords  evidence  that  the  springs 
in  this  neigh))orhood  were  formerly  much  more  extensive  than  at  present. 

Other  groups  of  warm  springs,  scarcely  less  remarkable,  besides  many  less 
worthy  of  note  than  that  above  described,  are  met  with  in  different  parts  of  the 
State.  In  the  valley  of  the  Great  Salt  Bed,  southern  part  of  Humboldt  county, 
occur  three  clusters  of  thermals,  separated  by  a  distance  of  six  or  eight  miles — 
one  on  each  side  and  one  in  the  centre  of  the  valley — but  all  so  much  alike  that 
a  description  of  one  will  sei've  to  give  a  good  idea  of  the  others.  The  principal 
group  at  this  place,  being  that  in  the  centre  of  the  valley,  consisting  of  over  20 
springs,  occupies  an  oblong  mound  covering  10  acres  and  rising  60  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  valley.  This  mound,  formed  wholly  by  the  carbonate  of  lime 
brought  up  and  deposited  by  the  waters,  is  covered  with  short,  coarse  grass. 
Some  of  the  springs  are  fringed  with  rushes  and  tules.  Much  of  the  surface  is 
saturated  with  water  fi'om  tbe  overflow  of  the  springs.  This  overflow  runs  in 
small  channels  out  upon  the  plains,  where  it  is  soon  evaporated  or  absorbed  by 
the  dr}^  and  porous  earth.  Upon  the  summit  and  about  the  sides  of  this  tumulus 
are  situated  the  springs,  some  occupying  well-shaped  openings  in  the  turf  and 
others  issuing  from  huge  basins  composed  of  limy  concretions  resembling  ala- 
baster, or  from  the  tops  of  tumuli  formed  of  the  same  material  and  raised  six  or 
eight  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  mound.  Some  of  these  springs,  or  rather 
pools,  are  more  than  60  feet  wide,  while  the  diameter  of  others  is  not  more  than 
two  or  three  feet,  the  whole  varying  as  much  in  depth  as  in  supei-ficial  area. 
There  is  also  a  wide  difference  in  temperature,  some  being  at  boiling  point  while 
others  are  simply  tepid  or  quite  cool,  the  hot  and  cold  springs  in  some  instances 
being  separated  only  by  a  few  feet.  The  water  in  all  is  soft,  pure,  and  limpid, 
and  so  transparent  that  the  smallest  object  can  be  seen  at  a  depth  of  50  or  60 
feet.  Bubbles  of  gas  are  seen  constantly  ascending  through  it,  but  there  is  no 
ebullition  nor  perceptible  escape  of  steam.  While  all  these  springs  keep  quite 
or  nearly  fall  but  few  overflow,  the  aggregate  amount  of  water  discharged  being 
small.  The  cluster  of  springs  on  the  west  side  of  the  valley  contains  eight  pools, 
hot,  wann,  and  cold,  the  most  of  them  larger  and  deeper  than  those  in  the  cen- 
tral group,  while  those  on  the  eastern  side,  though  equally  numerous,  are  not  so 
large.  At  Wilson's  ranch,  in  the  southern  end  of  the  valley,  are  a  number  of 
small  springs,  some  of  them  quite  hot,  while  along  its  eastern  side  are  to  be  seen 
the  crater-shaped  basins  and  tumuli  of  extinct  thennals. 

At  the  following  additional  localities  in  this  State  hot  springs  occur,  either 
isolated  or  in  groups,  and  of  different  dimensions,  some  large  and  in  a  state  of 
active  ebulHtion,  others  small  and  wholly  quiescent :  at  several  points  in  Carson 
and  Eagh^  valleys;  on  the  desert  between  Truckee  river  and  Humboldt;  in  the 
vicinity  of  Black  Bock,  very  numerous;  along  the  eastern  base  of  the  Pine  Nut 
nionntains;  on  the  desert  between  the  Big  Bend  of  the  Carson  and  Walker  rivers; 
near  ]vei)ler's  station  on  the  Wellington  road,  16  miles  west  of  the  Sinkavata 
mountains  and  40  east  of  Walker's  lake;  at  a  nmnber  of  places  in  Lassen,  Alpine, 
and  j\lono  counties,  California,  near  the  Nevada  line;  upper  end  of  Degroot's 
valley,  western  part  of  Lander  county;  east  side  of  Reese  River  valley,  60  miles 
north  of  Austin;  south  end  of  Smoky  valley;  in  fu'st  range  of  momitaius  east  of 
Toqiiima  valley,  and  in  the  valley  beyond;  along  the  south  side  of  the  Upper 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  309 

Ilumboldt,  and  great  Tiumlicrs  scattered  over  Fnmklin  valley,  besides,  in  many 
jilaees  thruughont  tlie  State,  the  nioimds  and  other  evidences  of  extinct  thermals, 
now  without  signs  of  heat  or  nioistnre.  At  sonic  of  the  localities  ennnicrated  the 
S}>rings  are  large,  deeji,  and  numerous,  the  water  being  kept  at  a  high  tempera- 
ture and  in  a  state  of  violent  commotion  b}'  internal  heat;  at  others  these  con- 
ditions are  nearly  all  reversed,  the  orifices,  once  aj)])arently  much  deeper,  being 
nearly  filled  up  and  the  temperature  of  the  water  scarcely  alxjve  blood  heat,  jus- 
tifying the  conclusion  that  the  cooling  })rocess  is  general,  and  that  the  chemical 
action  u]ion  which  it  is  dependent  for  its  elevated  temperature  is  constantly  dimin- 
ishing, and  will,  in  process  of  time,  cease  altogether.  There  are  cases,  however, 
in  which  this  acti(m  is  supposed  to  be  on  the  increase  and  in  which  the  springs 
appear  to  be  of  recent  origin,  not  being  contained  in  the  nsual  rocky  basins  nor 
surrounded  with  the  mounds  formed  by  the  deposition  of  silicious  or  calcareous 
matter.  Of  this  kind  are  the  springs  situate  in  the  Hot  Creek  districts,  Nye 
county,  the  surplus  water  of  which  is  so  copious  and  hot  as  to  have  given  the 
name  Hot  creek  to  the  stream  issuing  from  them.  Besides  this  there  are  other 
hot  creeks  in  the  State,  having  their  origin  in  a  similar  cause. 

Some  of  the  cold  springs  in  Nevada  are  scarcely  less  remarkable  because  of 
their  size,  depth,  or  the  great  volume  of  water  they  discharge  than  the  thermals 
above  described.  The  most  noted  of  these  occur  in  the  central  and  eastern  part 
of  the  State.  Along  the  western  side  of  Smoky  valley  are  a  number  of  pools, 
varying  in  diameter  from  20  to  SO  feet,  some  of  them  being  at  least  100  feet 
deep — so  deep,  in  fact,  that  the  water,  which  is  soft  and  clear  as  crystal,  has  a 
dark  ])lue  appearance.  Several  of  these  are  filled  with  small  fish  and  send  ofi' 
a  large  stream  of  water.  So  immense  are  some  of  these  fountains  that  it  has 
been  conjectured  they  must  have  their  sources  in  subterranean  lakes;  a  more 
plausible  theory,  however,  is  that  they  originate  from  the  mountain  streams 
which,  sinking  on  the  margin  of  the  valley,  pursue  their  way  under  ground  until 
they  meet  with  some  obstruction,  when  they  collect  in  reservoirs  that  ultimately 
find  an  outlet  in  these  springs.  In  the  second  tier  of  vallej's  east  of  Smoky 
occurs  another  group  of  these  springs,  also  circular  in  form,  very  deep  and  full 
of  clear  cold  water,  but  having  no  apparent  outlets  or  inlets.  These  also  swarm 
with  small  fish,  the  number  of  which  leads  to  the  belief  that  there  must  be  more 
room  for  them  beneath  the  turf-like  sod  by  which  they  are  surrounded.  In  one 
of  the  lateral  valleys  on  the  Upper  Humboldt  is  a  meadow  covering  1,200  acres 
and  clothed  with  luxmiant  grass,  in  the  midst  of  which  are  several  hundred  cir- 
cular openings,  from  three  to  six  feet  wide,  through  which  the  pure,  pellucid 
water  rises  nearly  to  the  surface.  They  are  very  deep  and  full  of  small  fish, 
the  number  of  which  becomes  greatly  increased  on  shaking  the  suiTounding  turf, 
which  can  easily  be  done  by  the  weight  of  the  person,  favoring  the  supposition 
that  these  apertiu:es  are  really  the  vent  lioles  of  an  extensive  underground  lake. 
Franklin  river,  a  good-sized  stream,  is  formed  almost  wholly  from  tributaries  that 
take  their  rise  in  a  series  of  large  springs  ranged  along  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tains l)ounding  its  valley  on  the  west.  Some  of  these  springs  send  off  creeks 
15  feet  wide  and  over  a  foot  deep,  which  run  with  a  rapid  current.  The  nun)ber 
of  springs  contained  in  Thousand  Springs  valley,  on  the  Upper  Humboldt,  is 
sufiiciently  indicated  by  its  name;  many  of  these  are  distinguished  for  their  size 
and  the  excellence  of  their  water. 

Salt  Beds. — These  deposits,  through  their  extent  and  number,  become  not 
only  a  notable  feature  in  the  chorography,  but  also  an  important  item  in  the 
economical  resources  of  Nevada.  Like  the  alkali  Hats  and  mud  lakes  they  are 
confined  to  the  valleys  and  plains,  in  which  they  cover  the  points  of  greatest 
depression,  the  most  of  them  l)eing  adjacent  to  or  encompassed  l»y  a  belt  of  alkali 
lands.  They  are  doul)tless  of  lacustrine  origin,  occupying  what  were  fonnerly 
tte  basins  of  inland  seas  and  salt  lakes,  their  deposition  being  efl'ected  through 
the  evaporation  of  these  bodies  of  water.     Besides  the  extensive  beds  of  this 


310  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

mineral  occnmug  in  Cluircliill,  Esmeralda,  and  Lincoln  counties,  there  are  seve- 
ral smaller  deposits,  as  ^Yell  as  a  number  of  saliniferous  springs,  elsewhere  in  the 
State,  all  of  which  may  become  of  local  value  on  account  of  their  proximity  to 
supposed  valuable  mines.  The  most  productive  bed  at  present  is  that  of  the 
Sand  Spring  Salt  Mining  Company,  75  miles  east  of  Vii'ginia.  The  claim  of 
this  company,  consisting  of  1,600  acres,  occupies  a  depression  in  the  southeastern 
corner  of  an  extensive  alkali  flat,  the  centre  of  which  for  a  space  of  seN''eral 
hundred  acres  is  damp  and  marshy,  and  some  portion  of  it  covered  Avith  a  few 
inches  of  water.  This  damp  surface  is  coated  to  a  depth  of  two  or  three  inches 
with  a  crystallized  incrustation  of  salt  formed  by  sublimation  of  the  particles  of 
this  mineral  with  which  the  clayey  strata  below"  are  charged.  On  removing  this 
coating  of  salt  a  thin  body  of  fine  white  clay  is  exposed,  overlying  a  stratum  of  soft 
l)lack  clay,  w'hich,  in  turn,  rests  upon  another  seam  of  green  and  black  clay,  con- 
taining coarse  globules  of  salt.  Beneath  this  seam  occm'S  a  deposit  of  crystal- 
lized salt,  hard  and  massive  but  of  unascertained  thickness.  In  collecting  the 
salt  at  this  place,  a  tract  embracing  a  score  of  acres  or  more  is  selected,  and 
divided  into  strips,  from  each  of  which,  in  regular  order,  it  is  scraped  into  large 
heaps  with  a  broad  wooden  hoe.  These  heaps,  after  being  exposed  for  a  few 
days  to  drain  and  dry,  are  conveyed  in  w'heelbarrows  or  cars  running  on  wooden 
tracks  laid  down  for  the  purpose  of  facilitating  transportation  over  the  soft 
ground,  and  thrown  upon  platfonns  or  dumps,  when  the  salt  is  ready  for  sacking 
and  shijnnent  to  market.  After  one  of  these  surface  sections  has  been  stripped 
of  salt,  the  incrustration  immediately  begins  to  refomi,  and  so  rapidly  do  the 
secretions  from  the  saliniferous  clays  below  proceed  that  a  few  weeks,  and  some- 
times less,  is  sufficient  to  fully  replace  it,  admitting  of  the  gathering  of  a  fresh 
crop  at  least  every  month.  As  the  masses  of  crystallized  salt  underlying  these 
clayey  strata  are  probably  inexhaustible,  it  would  seem  as  if  this  process  of 
replenishment  might  go  on  Ibrever.  These  clays  are  not  the  primary  sources  of 
supi)ly,  though  no  doubt  serving  a  useful  purpose  in  promoting  by  their  heat  the 
sublimaticm  of  the  saline  particles  as  well,  perhaps,  as  in  aiding  their  condensa- 
tion upon  the  surface.  Large  sections  of  the  alkali  flat  at  Sand  Spring,  lying 
outside  of  this  company's  claim,  are,  dm-ing  the  dry  season,  covered  with  a  coat- 
ing of  salt ;  but  it  is  neither  so  heavy  nor  pure  as  that  owned  by  them,  being 
rarely  more  than  an  inch  thick,  and  largely  mixed  with  alkaline  and  other  for- 
eign matters,  resembling,  in  these  particulars,  the  deposits  in  Smoky  valley,  and 
in  the  Cortez  district,  and  other  salt  fields  of  limited  extent  elsewhere  in  the 
State.  The  leading  features  of  the  larger  l)eds,  however,  are  almost  identical 
with  those  of  this  deposit  at  Sand  Spring,  the  character  of  the  salt  and  the  mode 
of  collecting  it  being  also  very  much  the  same.  Prior  to  1862,  all  the  salt  used 
in  tliis  State  ^was  brought  from  San  Francisco,  at  an  average  cost,  laid  down  in 
Virginia,  of  about  $150  per  ton.  During  that  year  parties,  having  imported  a 
herd  of  camels  for  the  purpose,  began  packing  this  commodity  in  irom  the  salt 
pools,  45  miles  southeast  of  Walker  lake,  whereby  the  prices  were  somewhat 
reduced.  The  following  year,  the  Sand  Spring  Company  having  commenced 
operations,  the  price  of  salt  suilered  a  iurther  reduction,  and  for  the  past  two  years 
this  article  has  been  delivered  to  the  mills  about  Virginia  at  the  uniform  rate  of 
$60  per  ton,  being  considerably  less  than  the  average  cost  of  freight  from  San 
Francisco.  During  the  year  1866  this  company  disposed  of  about  150,  and 
during  the  past  year  of  about  250  tons  oi'  salt  per  month,  the  most  of  which  was 
consumed  iii  the  mills  and  reduction  works,  a  little,  also,  after  grinding,  having 
been  used  for  meat-packing  and  culinary  ]iurposes,  for  which  it  is  Avell  adapted. 
The  Sand  Spring  Com])any  have  over  $il00,000  invested  in  this  business,  and, 
though  owning  several  large  teams,  hire  many  (,)thers  to  haul  the  product  of  their 
salt  fields  to  market,  their  freight  liills  amounting  to  from  $10,000  to  $15,000  per 
week.  Large  as  is  the  amount  of  salt  they  are  thus  enabled  to  deliver,  the  supply 
is  scarcely  equal  to  the  demand,  some  of  the  larger  mills  consuming  between  35 


WEST  OF  THE  ROOKY  MOUNTAINS.  311 

and  40  tons  p(>r  niontli.  Tlio  company,  linilini^  tlieir  salt  Avell  snitod  to  table 
uso,  liavocnrti'd  a  steam  mill  at  Vir<;^inia,  where  considerable  qnantitiesarc  ground 
and  put  up  I'or  tins  purpose.  About  40  miles  north  of  the  Sand  Spring's  bed. 
also  in  Churchill  county,  is  another  and  still  larger  but  very  similar  deposit  of 
salt.  At  this  \Ai\w  there  is,  first,  an  incrustation  of  salt  an  inch  or  two  thick 
overlying  a  stratum  of  blue  clay  18  inches  thick,  filled  with  cubical  crystals  of 
salt,  ami  resting  u])on  a  heavy  l)od3'  of  these  crystals  free  from  earthy  matter  and 
reaching  downward  to  an  nnknown  depth.  This  property  is  also  owned  by  a 
company,  ■v\ho  have  laid  down  a  tramway  for  running  out,  a  ]ilatform  for  n^ceiving, 
and  a  house  for  storing  their  salt.  From  this  locality  the  Humboldt  mills  obtain 
their  su})plies  of  this  commodity,  a  little,  also,  having  V»een  sent  to  Virginia  and 
Austin,  it  being  extremely  white  and  pure.  In  the  Silver  Peak  district,  Esme- 
ralda county,  occurs  the  most  extensive  salt  field  in  the  State,  its  area  covering- 
some  40  or  50  square  miles,  much  of  which  is  coated  with  a  thick  incrustation 
of  the  pure  chloride  of  sodium,  underlaid  by  seams  of  clay  and  a  crystallized 
mass  of  salt  of  unknown  thickness,  as  at  Sand  Spring  and  Big  Salt  valley. 
Situate  near  the  edge  of  this  lied  are  a  number  of  saline  springs,  the  water  of 
which  evaporating  is  constantly  increasing  the  deposits  of  salt  about  them.  Holes 
dug  in  the  earth  in  this  vicinity  are  in  a  short  time  conqdetely  filled  with  a  solid 
mass  of  salt,  deposited  from  the  supersaturated  water  seeping  into  them.  It  is  a 
curious  circumstance  that  situated  in  close  proximity  to  these  pools  of  perfect  brine 
are  a  number  of  springs  of  soft  fresh  water.  In  the  Columbus  district,  and  within 
half  a  mile  of  the  principal  mines,  layers  of  salt  iuterstratilied  with  clay  are 
found  near  the  surface ;  and  by  removing  a  foot  or  tW'O  of  earthy  matter  on  top, 
the  water  coming  in  fills  the  excavation  in  the  conrse  of  four  or  five  days  with 
a  compact  mass  of  pure  white  salt.  North  of  this  spot  five  miles  are  the  pools 
from  which  the  camel  train  several  years  since  procured  their  loading  for  Vir- 
giaia,  and  at  a  point  10  miles  to  the  west  is  the  extensive  deposit  known  as 
Teal's  salt  marsh,  and  from  which  the  mills  at  Am'ora  obtain  their  supplies. 
Besides  these,  there  are  several  other  salt  beds  of  minor  importance  both  in  this 
vicinity  and  in  other  parts  of  Esmeralda  county,  as  well  as  also  in  Owen's  valley, 
Inyo  county,  California,  adjoining  Esmeralda  on  the  southwest.  In  the  Pah- 
ranagat  district,  southeastern  j)art  of  Lincoln  county,  on  the  upper  waters  of  the 
Eio  Virgin,  masses  of  crystallized  salt  exist  in  such  quantities  as  to  constitute  a 
notable  part  of  the  mountain  in  which  they  occur.  They  lie  in  strata,  are  almost 
chemically  pure,  and  so  transparent  that  ordinary  print  can  be  read  through  blocks 
of  this  material  a  foot  square.  The  salt  deposits  before  alluded  to  as  occuiring 
in  Smoky  valley  and  near  the  Cortez  district  are  slight  and  impure.  The  former 
and  the  more  important  of  the  two  lies  40  miles  south,  and  the  latter  60  miles 
north  of  Austin.  The  incrastation  of  salt  at  these  localities  is  scarcely  more  than 
half  an  inch  tliick.  It  is  deposited  as  elsewhere  by  efflorescence,  and  though 
destitute  of  any  heavy  bodies  of  salt  below,  possesses  the  usual  power  of  repro- 
duction, renewing  itself  as  often  as  removed.  It  is  dissipated,  however,  by  the 
least  amount  of  rain,  though  readily  reappearing  on  the  return  of  dry  weather. 
From  the  Smoky  valley  bed,  where  a  considerable  amount  of  salt  is  collected, 
and  also  some  manufactured  for  talde  use,  the  mills  about  Austin,  at  Belmont, 
and  those  around  the  valley  procure  their  needed  supplies  of  this  article.  Thi.s 
salt  is  s<dd  on  the  gi-ound  ready  for  sacking  at  one  cent  a  pound,  the  cost  of 
hauling  it  to  the  mills  where  used'being  about  as  nuich  more.  jVlost  of  the  salt 
of  Nevada  as  found  in  its  natural  condition  is  remarkably  pm-e ;  samples  taken 
from  the  Silver  Peak  and  the  Great  Salt  valley  beds  gave  by  analysis  98  per 
cent,  chloride  of  sodium,  that  from  Sand  Spring  giving  96  per  cent.  Sam})le!i 
from  Smoky  valley  show  by  assay  909  per  cent,  chloride  of  so(liinn,the  inq)uri- 
ties  consisting  of  sand  and  sulphate  of  soda — ingredients  which  do  not  a})pear 
to  detract  frc)m  its  efficacy  for  amalgamating  purposes,  though  rendering  it  less 
fit  for  table  use.     With  salt  in  such  illimitable  quantities,  of  such  excellent 


312  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

quality  and  easy  procurement,  there  can  be  no  question  but  this  article,  besides 
supplying  all  local  demands,  will  be  largely  exported  from  this  State  whenever 
railroad  transportation  shall  have  been  extended  to  it. 


SECTIOX    II. 

WOODLANDS— SOURCES  OF  FUEL  AND  LUMBER  SUPPLY— COAL,  ETC. 

The  only  timber  in  this  State  suited  for  making  first-class  lumber  is  that 
found  on  or  near  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Sien'a  Nevada  mountains.  There 
are,  as  observed  in  the  remarks  on  the  central  and  eastern  parts  of  the  State,  a 
few  groves  of  spruce  and  white  pine  in  that  quarter;  but  the  trees  are  compara- 
tively small,  and  the  wood  for  the  most  part  soft  and  brittle.  The  prevailing 
tree,  where  there  is  any  east  of  the  Sierra,  is  the  scrubby  pitch  pine,  already 
described,  having  a  low  bushy  trunk,  from  10  to  15  inches  in  diameter,  and  from 
12  to  30  feet  high.  Being  compact  and  resinous,  it  bmiis  freely,  even  when 
green,  emitting  much  heat,  and  though  worth  biit  little  for  lumber,  constitutes  a 
valuable  fuel.  Mixed  with  these  are  a  few  juniper  and  mountain  mahogany 
trees,  equally  scrubby  with  the  pinon,  though  the  mahogany,  when  dry,  burns 
well.  Some  of  the  mountain  streams  are  fringed  with  a  naiTow  belt  of  willow, 
birch,  and  cheny,  all  slender  and  dwaiiish,  and  fit  at  best  only  for  fence  rails  or 
tire-wood.  With  so  great  a  scarcit}'  of  large  timber,  the  better  qualities  of  lumber 
necessarily  command  high  prices  in  most  parts  of  Nevada;  the  rates  increasing 
with  the  distance  fi-om  the  Sierra,  the  principal  source  of  supply.  Thus,  while 
this  article  can  be  purchased  at  the  mill  for  about  $20  per  1,000,  it  costs  nearly 
three  times  that  amount  delivered  in  Yii'ginia,  five  times  in  Austin,  and  six  or 
seven  at  Belmont.  The  price  is  proportionally  increased  where  delivered,  at 
jtoints  still  further  in  the  interior. '  This  question  of  fuel  and  lumber  supply  is 
more  fully  elucidated  in  the  pages  relating  to  the  working  of  the  Comstock  ores 
and  mines. 

Coal. — Although  no  heavy  deposits  of  coal  have  yet  been  found  in  Nevada,  it 
is  too  valuable  an  article  to  be  overlooked  in  making  up  a  summary  of  the  mineral 
resom-ces  of  the  State. 

The  Whitman  Coal  Minks — Developmrnts  and  RESULTS.--»The  first 
locations  of  mineral  coal  lands  and  efforts  at  working  the  same  were  made  in 
1861,  when  |)arties  encouraged  by  the  outcroppings  of  narrow  seams  of  lignite 
in  the  Pine  Nut  mountains,  at  a  point  about  12  miles  northeast  of  Dayton, 
Lyon  county,  proceeded  to  form  a  mining  distri(;t,  adopting  a  set  of  laws  and 
regulatious  for  governing  the  locating  and  holding  of  claims  therein.  These 
laws  w(;re  similar  to  those  used  in  taking  up  and  holding  quartz  lodes,  but  with 
this  diflerencc,  that  individual  claims,  instead  of  running  longitudinally  with,  and 
being  confined  to  a  narrow  space  along  the  ledge,  consisted  of  square  plats  of 
40  acres  each,  the  same  requiring  to  be  surveyed  l)y  the  territorial  surveyor,  and 
to  be  recorded  after  the  manner  of  real  estate.  The  coal  signs  observable  in  this 
locality  are  distributed  over  an  area  of  several  scpuire  miles,  all  of  which,  and 
nuich  more  was  taken  up  soon  after  the  district  was  fonned.  Quite  a  large 
amount  of  money  was  subsequently  expended  upon  these  claims  in  the  work  of 
exploration,  road  building,  &c.  Upon  the  most  promising,  shafts  were  sunk  to 
SI  considerable  dei)tli.  Whitman,  the  discoverer  and  his  associates,  besides  open- 
ing several  short  inclines,  and  performing  other  preliminary  labor,  ran  a  tunnel 
175  feet  in  length,  from  the  extremity  of  which  a  shaft  was  sunk  to  a  depth  of 
100  feet.  The  entire  outlay  of  this  company  amounted  to  some  SS,000  or  $10,000, 
a  portion  of  which,  however,  was  spent  in  constructing  a  wagon  road  leading 
from  thek  claims  to  the  valley  of  Carson  river,  six  miles  distant.     The  invest- 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  313 

mcnt  proved  nearly  a  total  loss.  Less  than  100  tons  of  roal  was  disposed  of,  as, 
indeed,  scarcely  more  than  that  amount  of  a  marketable  (jnality  was  ever  raised  Irom 
the  mines.  None  worth  speaking'  of  has  heeu  obtained  from  the  other  claims  in 
the  neiijhl)orhood.  This  coal  delivered  at  the  quartz  mills  or  other  points  where 
required  ft)r  eonsum])tion,  otMumanded  from  $8  to  812  per  ton,  rates  at  whicli 
most  of  that  of  local  j>rodnetion  has  since  been  disposed  of.  Numerous  trials 
were  made  to  test  its  adaptability  for  generating  steam.  The  proprietors  of  the 
Sacramento  quartz  mill,  in  Gold  Canon  procured  such  alterations  in  their  furnace 
grates  to  be  made  as  seemed  necessary  to  afford  ample  draught,  and  although 
their  mill  was  run  upon  it  for  a  short  time,  its  use  was  soon  abandoned.  The 
large  percentage  of  non-combustilde  matter  present,  choked  the  draught,  and 
prevented  the  production  of  sufficient  heat  for  the  rapid  creation  of  steam.  The 
attempts  made  to  introduce  this  coal,  and  that  procured  from  Eldorado  Caiion, 
near  by,  as  a  domestic  fuel,  were  somewhat  more  successful.  Considerable 
quantities  were  olitained  from  the  latter  place  for  a  year  or  two,  and  consumed 
in  Virginia  City  and  vicinity. 

The  getdogical  features  of  the  Whitman  district  are  not -such  as  to  indicate  the 
presence  of  heavy  bodies  of  carboniferous  matter.  The  country  about  the  mines 
is  dry  and  baiTcn ;  the  surface  in  places  discloses  traces  of  former  volcanic  action, 
and  although  there  is  here  a  species  of  coarse  sandstone,  the  old  red  sandstone, 
and  most  other  rocks  accompanying  the  true  coal  series  are  absent.  There  is 
also  here  a  shale,  but  like  the  sandstone,  it  evidently  belongs  to  the  pliocene 
age,  and  indicat(>s  for  these  coal  beds  a  comparatively  modern  origin.  The  follow- 
ing strata  encountered  in  sinking  a  perpendicular  shaft  110  feet  on  the  Whitman 
gi'ounds,  serve  to  exemplify  the  general  geology  of  the  district.  The  first  foot 
passed  through  consisted  of  a  clay  shale,  below  whicli  lay  several  feet  of  steatite, 
mixed  Anth  talc;  next  nearly  one  foot  of  bituminous  lignite,  underlaid  with  a  bed 
of  talcose  slate  Avas  encountered.  This  slate  rested  upon  sandstone,  followed  by 
another  thin  seam  of  lignite.  Then  followed  in  succession  a  stratum  of  slate ; 
30  inches  of  lignite,  of  a  somewhat  improved  character — a  narrow  seam  of  slate; 
six  inches  of  coal ;  various  strata  of  sandstone  alternating  with  thin  beds  of  steatite, 
shale,  and  coal,  the  shaft  terminating  a  thick  layer  of  white  sand.  Tlie  planes 
of  these  successive  strata  are  nearly  parallel,  the  whole  pitching  at  an  angle  of 
about  20°,  the  dip  varying  slightly  at  different  points. 

Othek  Discoveeirs. — Soon  after  the  location  of  the  Whitman  mines  a  still 
hea\'ier  deposit  of  lignite  was  found  12  miles  further  south,  in  Eldorado  caiion, 
resting  in  a  similar  geological  formation.  From  this  place  several  hundred 
tons  of  this  material  was  soon  afterwards  taken,  the  most  of  which  found  a  market 
in  the  neighboring  towns,  where  it  was  used  chiefly  in  stoves  and  grates.  As  a 
domestic  fuel  this  coal  has  met  with  more  favor  than  that  from  "the  Whitman. 
mine,  though  imfit  for  furnace  or  forge  purposes.  Upon  the  claim  of  the  New- 
castle Comi)any,  the  principal  claim  in  Eldorado  caiion,  a  good  deal  of  explora- 
tory work  has  been  done,  yet  no  heavy  body  of  coal  has  been  developed.  The 
contents  of  this  vein  resemble  the  broA\-n  coal  of  Germany,  witli  which  they 
coincide  in  their  chemical  constituents.  An  analysis  of  the  coal  from  the  vein 
of  the  Newcastle  Company,  shows  it  to  contain,  moistm-e  19. G5,  hydro-carbonaceous 
matter  40. .19,  fixed  carbon  28.31,  and  ash  11,  with  traces  of  sulphur  and  iron. 
The  resultant  fixmi  distillation  is  a  charcoal,  and  not  a  coke,  as  from  the  English 
coal,  which  generally  contains  more  sulphur,  but  less  volatile  matter  and  ayh. 
As  the  Nevada  coal  contains  but  little  sulphur,  it  would  be  valuable  for  forge 
Tise  and  iron  works,  were  it  not  for  the  large  percentage  of  volatile  substances 
it  can-ies,  composed  mainly  of  water,  which  detracts  from  its  merits  as  a  fuel,  as 
well  as  for  the  generation  of  gas.  For  the  latter  purpose  it  might  be  made  to 
answer  by  the  addition  of  sonie  carbonaceous  material,  since  by  this  plan,  as  has 
been  ascertained,  it  could  be  made  to  produce  about  9,000  cubic  feet  of  gas  to 
the  ton,  which  owing  to  the  absence  of  sulphur,  would  posses  high  powers  of 


i^:  t  ■ 


314  EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

illumination.  Soon  after  the  above  discoveries  fnrilier  coal  signs  were  noticed 
two  miles  southeast  of  Fort  Chm-chill,  where  a  number  of  thin  seams  of  lignite 
crop  along  the  steep  and  barren  hills  that  abound  in  tliat  neighborhood.  To 
secure  these  a  district  was  laid  out,  and  several  claims  taken  up,  on  two  or  three 
of  which  open  cuts  were  run  and  other  work  done,  but  without  establishing  for 
them  any  positive  value.  Discoveries  of  coal  in  other  parts  of  the  State  have 
from  time  to  time  been  announced,  but  with  two  or  three  exceptions  they  do  not 
appear  to  have  had  any  substantial  foundation.  As  early  as  the  summer  of 
1860,  parties  excited  by  the  finding  of  a  black  slaty  substance,  a  few  miles  east 
of  Sand  Springs,  took  ste]?s  for  securing  a  tract  of  land  there,  but  abandoned 
the  purpose  on  ascertaining  the  worthless  nature  of  the  material.  There  was 
a  rumor  prevalent  some  years  ago  of  mineral  coal  having  been  found  in  the 
country  to  the  north  of  the  Himiboldt  river,  but  the  report  lacks  verification. 
In  1864,  some  miners  prospecting  to  the  north  of  New  Pass  station,  Churchill 
county,  having  come  upon  a  species  of  obsidian  possessing  a  cleavage  and  lustre 
similar  to  hard  coal,  for  which  it  was  ignorantly  mistaken,  quite  an  excitement 
supei-vened  on  its  being  made  known  in  Austin.  The  non-combustible  nature  of 
this  substance  was  readily  established,  and  the  interest  so  suddenly  awakened 
by  its  discovery  speedil}-'  subsided.  Two  years  later  a  company  of  miners  search- 
ing after  silver  lodes,  picked  up  in  the  Eureka  district,  60  miles  east  of  Austin, 
some  pieces  of  float  coal,  which  on  trial  were  found  to  burn  freely,  emiting  a 
strong  heat,  and  leaving  but  little  ash.  This  float  was  not  traced  to  its  original 
bed,  concerning  which  nothing  is  known,  though  the  sample  picked  up  was  of 
a  superior  qualit^^,  and  there  is  reason  to  hope  that  mines  of  good  coal  vnl\  yet 
be  fouiid  in  that  quarter  of  the  State,  valuable  seams  having  already  been  met 
with  ill  the  adjacent  Territory  of  Utah.  In  the  Volcano  district,  Esmeralda 
county,  at  a  point  about  80  miles  easterly  from  Aurora,  two  veins  of  coal,  the 
one  12  and  the  other  30  inches  think  have  been  discovered.  They  can  be  easily 
traced  for  several  rods  by  the  bituminous  debris  on  the  surface ;  are  evidently  of 
an  earlier  period  than  tlie  lignite  found  elsewhere  in  the  State,  and  are  highly 
carbonized,  and  bear  the  appearance  of  a  silicious  anthracite  coal  mixed  with 
calcite.  The  impurities  in  this  article  amount  to  40  or  50  per  cent,,  yet  it  emits 
a  strong  heat,  and  bm-ns  almost  entirely  to  a  white  ash.  It  has  been  used  suc- 
cessfully as  a  substitute  for  charcoal  by  blacksmiths  and  assay ers;  that  tested 
came  from  but  three  or  fom'  feet  below  the  surface,  to  which  depth  only  have  the 
seams  yet  been  opened.  The  fissm-es  are  well  defined;  have  an  argillaceous 
shale  on  the  one  side,  and  limestone  of  the  Jurassic  age  on  the  other;  but  whether 
these  coal  measures  will  prove  to  be  of  greater  extent  or  value  than  those  at  the 
localities  already  described,  we  have  not  the  data  to  determine.  Thcw  remain 
,as  yet  v/holly  undeveloped.  Should  they  afford  even  a  moderate  amount  of 
fuel,  their  presence  in  a  region  where  there  is  but  little  wood  and  much  mineral 
wealth  would  hereafter  prove  important.  This  coal  is  but  three  or  four  miles 
from  a  series  of  oo]i]ier-bearing  lodes,  and  there  arc  also  in  this  district  promising 
veins  of  gold  and  silver-l)caring  quartz.  Outcroppings  of  soft  coal  can  be  traced 
for  several  miles  along  the  foot  hills  of  the  Wassack  mountains.  This  locality 
is  about  25  miles  north  of  Aurora,  and  four  miles  east  of  the  east  fork  of  Walker 
river.  In  thickness  this  seam  ranges  from  a  mere  thread  of  shale  to  6  or  7  feet. 
The  coal  burns  readily.  A  lot  taken  from  a  shaft  30  feet  below  the  sm-face 
underwent  perfect  combustion  on  being  ignited,  while  lying  in  an  open  heap  on 
the  ground.  The  vein  runs  nearly  northwest  and  southeast,  and  dips  south  westerlv 
at  an  angle  of  20°  degrees.  Tlie  accompanying  formation  consists  of  shale, 
sedimentary  rock,  sandstone,  &:c.,  the  whole  having  a  range  corresponding  with 
that  of  the  coal  seam.  The  deposits  at  this  place  are  not  in  their  natural  situa- 
tion much  exposed,  and  but  little  work  has  yet  been  done  upon  them.  It  is 
difficult  to  form  an  opinion  as  to  their  value,  though  competent  judges  speak 
favorably  of  the  chances  for  finding  here  a  fair  article  of  soft  coal.     Recently  a. 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  315 

coal  vein  of  the  aiitliracito  variety  is  reported  to  have  been  found  15  miles  from 
niko,  the  eounty  seat  of  Lincoln  county,  in  this  State.  The  vein  is  represented 
to  l>e  IT)  inehes  thick  on  the  surface,  and  its  contents  are  said  to  ignite  readily, 
and  burn  with  freedom,  leaviui^  less  than  three  ])er  cent,  of  residuum.  In  i^ravity 
and  external  characteristics  it  com])ares  favorably  with  the  best  coal  found  on 
this  side  of  tlie  continent,  thoui^h  assi^'ncd  to  a  later  geological  period.  Should 
the  deposit  prove  at  all  extensive  it  would  greatly  ben(^fit  the  surrounding  region, 
which,  with  much  mineral  wealth,  is  rather  limited  in  its  suj)plies  of  fuel. 

Crystal  Peak. — At  this  locality,  some  35  miles  northwest  of  Virginia  City, 
coal  signs  similar  to  those  in  El  Dorado  canon  occur  in  a  de})ression  known  as 
Dog  valley,  lying  near  the  eastern  Itase  of  the  Sierra,  distant  one  mile  from  the 
Trnckee  river,  and  two  from  the  line  of  the  Central  Pacific  railroad.  The  adja- 
cent hills,  as  well  as  the  valley,  are  covered  with  a  stately  growth  of  spruce  and 
pine  timlier,  which,  should  the  coal  fail,  might  still  afford  profitable  employment 
to  a  consideral)le  population,  as  good  lumber  can  be  made  here  at  small  cost. 
The  Truckee  affords  amjile  water-power  for  saw-mills  to  manufacture,  and  the 
railroad  a  ready  means  for  transporting  it  to  market.  There  are  also  some  gold 
and  silver-bearing  lodes  in  the  district,  which,  with  the  facilities  at  hand  for 
reducing  the  ores,  may  come  to  be  worked  with  remunerative  results.  The  dis- 
covery of  coal  at  this  place  was  made  about  four  years  ago,  fragmentary  portions 
of  a  dark-colored,  lustrous  lignite,  strongly  marked  with  the  structure  of  the  trees 
and  plants  from  wl^ich  it  was  fonned,  having  been  found  along  the  line  of  the 
outcropping  coal  seams.  A  good  deal  of  work  directed  to  the  exploration  of  these 
beds  has  since  been  done.  Several  thousand  dollars  have  been  expended  in  sink- 
ing shafts  and  artesian  borings,  and  in  excavating  cuts  and  tunnels.  Some  of 
the  former  have  been  carried  to  a  depth  of  300  feet.  In  some  cases  the  work  of 
prospecting  was  first  effected  by  means  of  boring,  after  wdiich  working  shafts 
were  put  down  and  steam  machinery  was  employed  to  facilitate  hoisting  and 
pumping  o})erations.  The  carboniferous  strata  at  Crystal  Peak  vary  in  thick- 
ness from  a  few  inches  to  two  and  a  half  feet ;  they  are  much  compressed  in  spots, 
and  largely  intemiixed  with  foreign  matter.  Although  a  considerable  quantity 
of  this  lignite  has  been  extracted,  and  one  company  claim  to  have  reached,  by 
boring,  a  seam  eight  feet  thick  at  a  point  300  feet  beneath  the  surface,  the  develop- 
ments made  have  not,  in  the  main,  proved  satisfactory ;  and  of  the  several  enter- 
prises at  one  time  set  on  foot  for  the  pm'pose  of  exploring  these  beds,  none  are 
now  being  actively  prosecuted;  and  as  some  of  those  interested  may  contemplate 
resuming  operations,  it  may  be  expedient  to  copy  here  the  opinions  of  the  State 
mineralogist  of  Nevada,  as  to  the  proliabilitiesof  any  considerable  bodies  of  coal, 
even  of  the  lignite  class,  ever  being  found  at  this  place.  Mr.  Stretch,  having 
given  the  locality  a  personal  examination,  remarks  concerning  its  geology  and 
coal  prospects  as  follows  : 

As  so  mncb  imperfect  knowledge  relative  to  the  probabilities  of  finding  coal  in  Nevada  is 
prevalent,  il  may  be  well  to  speak  more  fully  of  the  indications  in  this  neighborhood.  The 
seams  of  coal  originally  discovered  at  this  place  arc  interstratilied  with  thin  beds  of  coarse 
sandstone  or  volcanic  tufa,  of  light  coiors.  This  formation  is  traceable  easterly  for  a  distance 
of  IT)  miles,  being  intimately  associated  with  trachytes  and  basalt  wherever  it  is  found.  Where 
it  is  exposed  in  Long  valley,  north  of  Virginia,  it  contains  great  numbers  of  fragments  of  wil- 
low leaves  grasses,  «fec.,  remains  resembling  some  varieties  of  sage-brush,  and  in  one  instance 
the  elytron  of  a  beetle,  apparently  the  same  as  a  species  now  found  on  the  same  mountains, 
and  attached  to  the  pinon.  These  remains  indicate  for  the  formation  a  comparatively  recent 
date,  a  conclusion  confirmed  by  the  manner  in  which  it  is  associated  with  the  surrounding 
rocks.  The  rocks  of  the  Sierra  at  Crystal  Peak  are  entirely  igneous  or  metamorphic  in  their 
character,  and  have  been  tilted  into  every  conceivable  position  by  the  agencies  which  seamed 
them  with  intruded  granite  and  basalt.  Did  any  of  the  formations  which  are  known  to  accom- 
pany the  coal  fields  of  Europe  and  the  eastern  States  occur  in  this  vicinity,  even  though  cov- 
ered up  by  lava  beds,  their  immense  thickness,  and  the  distortions  to  which  tliey  have  been 
subjected,  would  certainly  have  disclosed  their  jireseuce,  and  they  might  have  been  recognized 
by  their  peculiar  fossils.  They  certainly  do  not  exist  at  Crystal  I'eak.  Had  the  tufas  and 
sandstones  containing  the  so-called  coal  seams  been  formed  before  the  elevation  of  the  Sierra, 


316  EESOUECES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

they  would  liave  necessarily  been  tilted  and  displaced  in  the  same  manner  as  the  associated 
rocks,  partakinf^  of  all  the  flexures  and  faults  of  tlie  mountain  range  near  which  they  lie. 
Instead  of  this  being  the  case,  the  stratification  is  nearly  horizontal,  or  only  slightly  inclined. 
In  some  places  the  beds  have  been  somewhat  tilted,  probably  by  the  causes  which  finally 
raised  them  above  the  water  level,  and  gave  the  present  configuration  to  the  surrounding 
country.  The  conclusion  is  almost  irresistible,  that  whatever  coal  is  found  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Crystal  Peak  will  be  confined  to  the  small  valleys  in  that  vicinity-,  which,  at  the  period 
when  Steamboat  valley  was  an  inland  sea  bounded  by  the  Sierra  on  the  west  and  the  Virginia 
mountains  on  the  east,  formed  small  arms  of  the  lake,  and  collected  more  or  less  of  the  vege- 
table debris  which  during  violent  storms  was  washed  down  from  the  pine  forests  on  the  sur- 
rounding hills.  There  is  yet  another  consideration  to  be  taken  into  account  in  estimating  the 
probable  extent  of  the  deposit.  The  loss  of  bulk  during  the  conversion  of  vegetable  matter 
into  coal  is  equal  to  about  three-fourths  of  the  original  mass.  It  becomes  evident  from  this 
that  an  extensive  bed  of  coal  can  only  be  found  where  there  has  been,  at  some  remote  period, 
most  luxuriant  forest  growth  and  water  sufficient  in  quantity  to  convey  the  debris  to  vast 
tracts  of  marshy  ground  favorable  for  decomposition.  The  coal  fields  of  the  Eastern  States 
and  England  afford  abundant  evidence  that  they  were  at  one  time  extensive  tracts  of  swampy 
forests,  with  a  tropical  climate  and  a  luxuriance  of  vegetation  with  which  even  equatorial 
forests  in  the  present  day  cannot  compete.  On  the  other  hand,  the  remains  of  plants  found 
in  the  associated  rocks  at  Crystal  Peak  do  not  warrant  us  in  entertaining  the  belief  that  such 
conditions  ever  existed  in  that  neighborhood.  What  we  do  find  point  rather  to  a  scanty 
growth,  such  as  is  found  on  the  hills  to-day.  The  almost  entire  absence  of  animal  remains  in 
the  beds  strongly  supports  this  idea.  Where  there  is  an  abundant  vegetation  there  is  gener- 
ally a  coiTesponding  abundance  of  animal  life,  which  could  scarcely  have  failed  to  leave  some 
mementos  of  its  existence.  If  these  views  are  correct,  as  there  is  good  reason  to  believe  they 
are,  no  body  of  coal  will  be  found  in  this  vicinity  which,  from  its  extent  or  thickness,  will 
repay  the  capital  expended  in  its  development.  The  mere  fact  of  the  formation  having  accu- 
mulated in  a  contracted  mountain  valley,  limits  its  extent  and  value  at  the  same  time.  The 
thin  seams  of  bituminous  matter  found  between  the  layers  of  tufa  may  have  been  the  product 
of  dense  growths  of  tule  and  other  water  plants. 


SECTION    III. 

COPPER. 

Among  the  more  promising  cupriferous  localities  in  tlie  State,  is 
The  Pea  vine  District,  situate  about  30  miles  northwest  of  Virginia  City, 
being  six  miles  north  of  the  Tnickee  river,  and  about  the  same  distance  from  the 
Central  Pacific  railroad,  with  all  which  it  is  connected  by  good  wagon  roads. 
This  district^  erected  in  March,  1SG3,  has  a  length  of  about  20,  and  an  average 
width  of  10  or  12  miles.  Near  its  centre  is  a  cluster  of  small  springs,  at  which 
a  house  was  built  in  18G0.  About  tliese  springs  grow  quantities  of  wild  peavines, 
hence  the  name  of  the  station  and  subsequently  of  the  district,  which  covers  a 
region  of  low  hills  stretcliing  along  the  eastern  base  of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  The 
country  about  tlie  mines  is  dry,  baiTcn,  and  treeless,  though  it  contains  several 
small  lakes  with  a  number  of  springs,  and  water  can  be  obtained  in  many  places 
by  digging  wells  from  30  to  50  feet  deep,  while  wood,  both  for  fuel  and  lumber, 
abounds  in  the  Sierra,  four  or  five  miles  distant.  The  lodes  in  this  district,  found 
almost  invariably  in  a  gi-anite  and  metamorphic  formation,  have  a  northerly  and 
southerly  strike,  and  are  from  3  to  12  feet  in  thickness,  with  a  few  of  greater 
dimensions.  They  do  not  project  much  above  the  surface,  and  although  a  small 
iiiunber  have  lieen  traced  by  the  outcrop  for  several  hundred  yards,  and  have 
been  found  persistent  for  a  considerable  depth,  many  of  them  have  the  appearance 
of  segregated  rather  than  deep  fissured  veins.  The  lodes  possessing  the  best  local 
reputation  as  based  on  size,  assays  of  ore,  and  extent  of  development,  are  the 
Great  Eastern,  20  feet  thick,  the  Bevelhymer,  American  Eagle,  Enterprise,  and 
Metropolitan,  upon  which  tuimels  have  l)een  run,  varying  from  50  to  300  feet  in 
leno-th  and  the  Pacific,  Indian,  Occidental,  Young  America,  Great  Western, 
Orient  Challenge,  and  Bay  State,  all  somewhat  explored  by  means  of  shafts, 
open  cuts,  and  other  excavations.     The  Tolls  Company  have  expended  s*^' 


WEST    OF   TlIK    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  317 

$4,000  in  pros{)ectinij  their  lode,  from  \vliicli  tlioy  have  taken  quantities  of  ore 
assayinj;  from  lo  to  40  per  cent,  of  copper,  and  I'roui  $60  to  $500  per  ton  in  s;iAd 
and  silver.  "Wliih*  the  above-mentioned  chiims,  as  well,  perhaps,  as  many  besides, 
cover  larc^e  and  permanent  lodes,  others  in  the  district  have  the  appearance  of 
beins2:  merely  limited  and  superficial  deposits.  The  Peavine  ores,  composed 
chioriy  of  carbonates  and  oxides,  besides  assayinc^  largely  in  cojjper,  contain  a 
sntliciency  of  the  precious  metals  to  defray  cost  of  transportation  to  the  seaboard, 
when,  as  will  be  the  case  in  the  course  of  next  yvm;  railroad  transit  can  be  had. 
In  the  metalliferous  portions  of  these  veins  free  gold  can  frequently  be  detected  by 
the  unassisted  eye ;  i)articles  of  this  metal  being  sometimes  found  on  the  surface 
where  the  veinstone  has  undergone  decomposition.  The  ores  of  this  district  givo 
by  assay  from  10  to  50  per  cent,  of  metallic  copper,  selected  samples  often  going 
much  higher.  Small  lots  of  the  better  class  of  ores  have  been  found  by  working 
tests  to  yield  from  30  to  40  per  cent,  of  metal.  By  an  assay  of  these  ores  made 
by  Mr.  Ricard,  the  following  results  were  obtained  : 

Gold 0005      $2  50  per  ton. 

Silver 0200        7  85 

Oxide  of  copper 34.1000     135  00        " 

Peroxide  of  irou 2.  3200 

Alumina 2200 

Sulphur 1.3600 

Carbonic  acid 11.2000 

Silicia 46.6600 

Water 3.8400 

Loss 2795 

100. 0000    145  35        " 


Some  choice  ores  reduced  at  the  English  Company's  mill,  seven  miles  distant 
from  the  mines,  yielded  100  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton.  Smelting  works 
on  the  Swansea  plan,  with  a  capacity  for  operating  10  or  12  tons  of  ore  daily, 
have  been  erected  in  the  district,  plumbago,  obtained  from  a  l)ed  of  that  mineral 
near  Washoe  City,  having  been  employed  in  their  construction.  This  material 
is  abundant  in  the  locality  mentioned,  and  although  not  yet  thoroughly  proved, 
there  is  good  reason  for  believing  it  well  adapted  to  this  and  similar  uses.  Sev- 
eral other  furnaces,  some  of  them  on  a  ditlerent  plan,  have  been  projected,  and 
there  is  a  likelihood  that  one  or  more  of  these  will  be  completed  and  in  operation 
in  the  course  of  a  few  months.  It  is  probable,  however,  that  the  bulk  of  these 
ores  will  be  shipped  to  San  Francisco  for  a  market,  or  sent  elsewhere  for  treat- 
ment when  the  railroad  shall  have  l)een  completed  to  this  point ;  an  event  that 
promises  to  revive  operations,  now  nearly  suspended,  enhance  the  value  of  claims, 
and  repopulate  this  eligiljly  situated  and  promising  district.  A  town,  also 
named  Peavine,  was  laid  out  in  1863,  at  the  group  of  springs  mentioned.  It 
contains  several  houses,  and  being  adjacent  to  the  mines,  should  the  latter  turn 
out  according  to  expectation,  its  growth  will  no  doubt  keep  pace  with  their  futme 
development. 

The  WalkePw  River  Copper  Region  covers  a  considerable  scope  of  countiy 
lying  between  and  atljacent  to  the  east  ami  west  forks  of  that  stream.  The  prin- 
cipal mines,  so  far  as  developments  extend,  are  distant  from  the  latter  in  a  westerly 
direction,  from  3  to  10  miles.  This  cvqiriferous  belt  has  an  average  width  of  eight 
and  a  length  of  aV)out  25  miles.  Within  these  limits  some  strong  veins  occur, 
and  here  most  of  the  labor  and  money  laid  out  in  that  region  have  been  expended. 
Like  the  Peavine,  this  is  an  arid,  sterile,  and  timberless  district  ;  the  only  water 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  mines  is  afforded  by  a  few  small  springs,  while 
the  only  vegetable  })roducts  consist  of  a  scanty  growth  of  bunch  grass,  artemisia, 
and  a  few  other  equally  scraggy  and  worthless  shrubs.  There  are,  however, 
scattered  groves  of  piuon  on  the  Pine  Nut  mountains  a  few  miles  to  the  west, 
while  the  west  branch  of  Walker  river,  iu  close  proximity,  and  at  all  seasons  a 


318  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

strong  and  ra])i(l  stream,  snpplies  every  reqiiisite  for  reduction  works.  Tlie  volume 
of  water  is  ample  for  propulsive  power,  and  also  for  floating  down  fuel  and  lum- 
ber ft-om  the  heavy  pine  and  spruce  forests  30  miles  above.  The  veins  here, 
which  are  numerous,  well  defined,  and  of  fair  average  dimensions,  have  a  gener- 
ally north-nortlieast  ti'end,  assay  from  12  to  50  per  cent,  in  copper,  and  fi-om$15 
to  $30  per  ton  in  the  precious  metals.  Most  of  the  countiy  rock  is  of  a  calcareous 
nature.  The  ores  embrace  almost  every  variet}^  and  often  cany  small  particles 
of  virgin  metal.  The  first  discoveries  were  made  in  this  district  in  1862,  since 
which  time  a  good  deal  of  work  in  a  promiscuous  way  has  been  done.  Although 
several  lodes  have  been  opened  to  a  considerable  depth,  it  can  hardly  be  said 
that  any  have  been  thoroughly  explored.  Active  exertions,  except  upon  a  few 
claims,  have  })een  suspended  for  the  past  two  years.  On  the  Bewley  mine  an 
incline  shaft  6  feet  by  10  has  been  sunk  to  a  depth  of  100  feet.  From  tliis  lode 
several  hundred  tons  of  ore  have  been  extracted  which  gave  an  average  yield  of 
nearly  40  per  cent,  of  metal.  It  is  well  fomied,  has  a  thickness  of  about  six  feet, 
has  a  nortlierly  and  southerly  strike,  and  an  easterly  dip  in  conformit}'  with  the 
prevailhig  pitch  in  the  district.  Other  veins  located  near  it  and  partially  opened, 
promise  almost  equally  well.  Upon  the  Constitution,  Peacock,  AYard,  and 
Weister  lodes,  some  prospecting  work  has  been  performed  with  encouraging 
results.  The  former,  which  is  the  most  extensivelj'  opened,  exhibits  a  vein  16 
feet  thick,  and  carries  ores  that  assay  from  20  to  30  per  cent,  of  copper,  with  a 
large  percentage  of  iron,  and  from  $15  to  $18  per  ton  in  gold  and  silver.  The 
quantity  of  iron  diminishes  as  depth  is  attained  on  the  lode.  The  Ward  and 
Weister  lode,  lying  near  the  Constitution,  and  some  10  miles  to  the  westward 
of  the  liver,  is  about  six  feet  wide,  carries  a  pure  gray  sulphuret  ore  of  high  grade 
with  native  copper,  and  from  $25  to  830  per  ton  in  gold  and  silver.  The  Pea- 
cock, four  miles  from  tlie  river,  is  a  four-foot  vein,  i^npregnated  Avith  yellow  sul- 
l^liuret  ore  assaying  about  the  same  as  that  from  the  Constitution.  In  the  foot 
hills  that  flank  the  Tollock  mountains  lying  between  the  forks  of  Walker  river, 
,as  well  as  in  the  country  contiguous  to  the  main  stream  and  that  stretching  along 
the  western  base  of  tlie  Wassack  range  west  of  the  Walker  lake,  occur  numerous 
copper-bearing  lodes,  which,  judging  from  surface  indications — none  of  them 
liaving  liecn  much  opened — will  yet  constitute  a  cupiiferous  field  of  considerable 
extent  and  value.  As  in  the  district  further  west,  a  variety  of  ores  is  met  witli 
in  these  localities.  The  facilities  for  transportation  and  reduction  are  about  the 
same. 

In  Battle  Mountain  district,*  in  the  eastern  part  of  Humboldt  county,  are 
several  deposits  of  the  red  oxide  of  copper.  The  Dunderberg,  the  principal  lode 
in  the  district,  consists  of  a  mass  of  silicious  rock  and  limestone  nearly  200  feet 
thick,  ]ienneated  by  numerous  small  veins  of  this  ore,  assaying  throughout  50 
per  cent,  of  metal.  Owing  to  the  remoteness  of  the  district,  90  miles  north-north- 
west of  Austin,  and  about  the  same  distance  easterly  Irom  the  settled  portions 
of  Humboldt  countv,  these  deposits,  though  apparently  rich  and  extensive,  pos- 
sess only  a  iirosjiectivc  value,  since  they  cannot  be  opened  to  advantage  or  worked 
with  pruiit  until  the  railroad,  to  passwitliin  10  miles  of  them,  shall  be  completed. 
With  that  auxiliary  they  will  probably  connnand  the  means  necessary  for  devel- 
opment. The  country  about  these  mines,  though  generally  barren,  contains 
some  patches  of  good  land,  with  a  naiTow  strip  of  fertile  bottoms  along  the  Iliun- 
boldt  river  a  few  miles  distant,  to  the  north.  Being  without  timber,  however, 
and  the  otlu^r  agents  essential  to  an  economical  reduction  of  the  ores,  the  mass 
of  them  will  require  to  be  shipped  elsewhere  for  treatment.  In  the  Volcano  dis- 
trict, Esmeralda  county,  at  a  point  about  80  miles  nortlieast  of  Aurora,  have  been 
found  some  of  the  heaviest  and  apparently  richest  copper  lodes  in  the  State.  The 
deposits  at  this  place  consist  of  well-defined  veins,  some  of  them  of  considerable 

*  See  section  on  Eastern  Nevada. 


!'rJL.. 


WEST    OF    THE   ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  319 

mafjnitudc,  and  of  orc-licariiig  masses  lyincr  upon  or  j'vujootinj:^  from  the  surface. 
The  top  ores  are  carbonates,  with  a  sprinklini>'  of  other  varieties,  and  at  g-reater 
depths  snl|>hurets,  the  average  assays  of  which  inchcate  a  fair  ])ercentage  of  cop- 
per and  the  presence  of  from  $25  to  $30  per  ton  in  silver,  and  from  S'i  to  $10  in 
gold.  The  region  for  a  considerable  distance  around  is  forbidding  and  desohite; 
it  is  scantily  sup[)lied  with  wt)od  and  water,  and  wholly  destitute  of  arable  lands. 
Moreover,  it  is  far  removed  from  the  line  of  any  contemplated  railway,  and  other- 
wise unfavorably  situated  for  the  cheap  extraction  of  the  metals  and  exportation 
of  ores ;  so  that  an  early  development  of  its  mineral  resources,  of  which  copper 
foiTns  but  one,  can  hardly  be  anticipated.  About  50  miles  southeast  of  Volcano, 
in  the  San  Antonio  district,  signs  of  copper  manifest  themselves  over  a  consid- 
erable scope  of  country.  The  ores  at  this  place  are  said  to  be  rich,  yet  nothing 
has  been  done  to  indicate  the  extent  or  probable  pennanence  of  the  mines.  One 
of  the  ledges  located  here  at  a  point  two  and  a  half  miles  east  of  Montezuma 
Spring,  called  the  Ruby,  has  a  thickness  of  12  feet,  and,  although  it  carries  a 
variety  of  metals,  copper  appears  to  predominate.  In  the  Bolivia,  Manmioth, 
and  Palmetto  districts,  as  well  as  in  numerous  other  localities  in  different  parts 
of  the  State,  strong  and  well  marked  veins  of  copper  ore  occur.  Although  many 
of  these  bear  superlicial  evidence  of  permanency,  no  positive  opinion  can  be  pro- 
nounced on  this  point,  since  only  upon  a  few  of  them  has  any  work  been  done. 
Upon  none  have  explorations  been  prosecuted  to  decisive  results. 


SECTION    IV. 

METEOROLOGY,  BOTANY,  ZOOLOGY,  ETC. 

Of  the  climate  of  Nevada  so  much  has  been  said  elsewhere  that  it  only  remains 
here  to  notice  a  few  of  what  may  be  considered  its  meteorological  peculiarities ; 
among  which  the  most  remarkable  are  w-hat  have  been  denominated  cloud  hursts, 
a  heavy  precipitation  of  rain  caused  by  the  meeting  of  two  clouds  surcharged 
with  moisture.  This  phenomenon  is  thought  to  be  produced  through  electrical 
agencies,  though  not  enough  has  been  ascertained  to  settle  this  fully.  Numbers 
of  these  "  cloud  biu'sts  "  occur  every  summer.  They  are  most  frequent  in  the  south- 
ern and  western  parts  of  the  State.  In  some  instances  an  immense  amount  of 
■water  falls  to  the  earth  in  a  few  minutes,  filling  up  gulches  and  sAveeping  away 
ever}i;hing  opposed  to  its  progress.  Several  lives  have  been  lost  and  considera- 
ble property  destroyed  in  the  State  during  the  past  few  years  through  this  cause. 

The  mirage,  an  optical  illusion  caused  by  saline  particles  floating  in  a  heated 
atmosphere,  is  often  seen  in  great  perfection  on  the  deserts  of  Nevada.  Some- 
times it  takes  the  form  of  lakes,  w"itli  islands  and  headlands  l)athing  in  their  lim- 
pid waters  ;  assuming,  at  others,  though  more  rarely,  the  appearance  of  extensive 
gi'oves  and  wooded  lawns,  the  whole  so  closely  resembling  nature  that  it  requires 
an  effort  of  reason  to  dispel  the  illusion.  The  same  or  similar  atmospheric  con- 
ditions sometimes  so  refract  the  rays  of  light  as  to  distort  and  magnify  in  a 
strange  manner  objects  seen  at  a  short  distance.  A  sage  bush  viewed  through 
this  medium  has  the  appearance  of  a  large  spreading  tree,  and  the  little  cones 
^fonned  by  the  drifting  sand  loom  like  pyramids  on  tlie  deserts. 

Snoiv  slide's,  though  often  happening  in  the  Sierra,  where  they  sometimes  occur 
on  a  large  scale  and  w  ith  fatal  results,  are  not  common  in  tlV'  interior  of  the 
State.  Nearly  every  winter  some  unfortunate  traveller  loses  his  liA;  in  the  Sierras 
by  being  overwhelmed  by  those  descending  masses  of  snow. 

Sand  storms  and  sand  clouds  are  regular  features  of  the  climatology  of  this 
region.  The  former  is  brought  about  by  certain  strong  winds,  which,  blowing 
steadily  for  some  days,  so  completely  fill  the  air  with  sand  and  dast  that  it  is 


320  EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TEERITOEIES 

impossible  to  see  for  more  than  a  few  rods.  Respiration  becomes  labored,  and 
tlie  atmospliere  often  grows  oppressively  warm  during  their  contimaance,  \i-hich 
rarely  lasts  more  than  a  single  day.  The  sand  clouds  or  pillars  are  formed  after 
the  manner  of  water-spouts,  and  consist  of  immense  bodies  of  fine  sand  and  dust 
canied  to  a  great  height  by  a  rotary  and  upward,  but  at  the  same  time  advanc- 
ing, current  of  air,  sometimes  at  a  slow  and  again  with  a  rapid  pace.  Frequently 
these  columns  sway  high  in  the  atmosphere,  and  many  of  them  can  be  seen  at 
the  same  time  following  each  other  in  majestic  procession  arcoss  the  plains. 

This  region,  like  California,  has  its  wet  and  dry  seasons,  though  the  latter  is 
scarcely  so  long  or  uninterrapted  here  as  there,  nor  is  the  precipitation  dming 
the  wet  season  so  great.  Summer  showers,  accompanied  with  thunder  and  light- 
ning, are  more  frequent  in  Nevada  than  in  California,  though  much  less  common  than 
in  the  States  east  of  the  llocky  mountains. 

Both  the  fauna  and  flora  of  Nevada  lack  fullness  and  variety.  The  indigenous 
plants  and  flowers  are  few,  while  the  animal  kingdom,  except  in  the  department 
of  insect  life,  is  barren  almost  beyond  example.  With  the  exception  of  the  pine- 
nut,  a  few  wild  currants  and  gooseberries,  and  one  or  two  other  inferior  kinds  of 
berries,  found  only  in  a  few  localities,  and  none  of  them  very  plentiful,  there  is 
little  in  the  vegetable  world  that  civilized  man  considers  eatable.  There  are  few 
or  no  wild  plums,  blackberries,  strawberries,  or  grapes.  The  wild  cherries  found 
growing  on  a  scrubby  bush  in  some  of  the  canons  are  small,  bitter,  and  astrin- 
gent. The  Indians  find  many  medicinal  herbs  and  esculent  roots,  but  neither 
are  much  esteemed  by  white  men.  In  the  tule  about  the  sink  of  the  Humboldt 
and  Carson  grows  a  species  of  cane  which  exudes  a  sweet  sirup  that,  di'png  in 
small  lumps  on  the  smface,  forms  a  tolerable  article  of  sugar.  Wild  flax  and 
tobacco  are  found  occasionally  growing  on  the  hills,  and  along  the  Humboldt  a 
species  of  wild  hemp  is  met  with,  having  a  long  and  stout  fibre,  which  may, 
with  cultivation,  come  to  form  an  important  textile.  The  artemesia  or  wild  sage, 
a  scraggy  shrub  growing  from  one  to  six  feet  high,  is  found  nearly  everywhere. 
This  species  is  worthless  for  anything  except  fuel,  though  there  is  a  small  white 
kind  of  sage  upon  which  cattle  feed  with  avidity  after  it  has  been  visited  by  the 
fiii-st  frosts  of  autumn.  The  cactus,  growing  but  sparsely  in  the  northern  and 
central  parts  of  the  State,  is  common  further  south,  where,  also,  the  mesquit  tree 
abounds.  Game,  with  the  exception  of  sage  hen  and  hare,  is  scarce  in  all  parts 
of  the  State.  There  are  no  wildcats,  panthers,  bears,  or  other  animals  that  can 
justly  be  called  beasts  of  prey.  The  nearest  approach  to  these  are  the  coyote 
and  wolf,  of  which  there  are  a  few  in  all  parts  of  the  country.  On  some  of  the 
more  loft}'  ranges  are  to  be  seen  occasionally  small  herds  of  mountain  sheep. 
These  animals  arc  shy  and  fleet,  keeping  usually  in  the  more  rugged  and  inac- 
cessible parts  of  the  mountains.  The  beaver,  otter,  martin,  foxes,  fishers,  and 
other  fiu--]jcaring  animals  that  drew  the  trapper  into  this  region  in  the  eaiiy  day, 
have  nearly  all  disai)pcared,  and  now  rarely  fall  a  prey  to  the  hunter.  About 
the  sinks  and  lakes  geese,  ducks,  cranes,  and  pelicans  are,  at  certain  seasons  of 
the  year,  plentiful.  These,  with  the  sage  hen,  raven,  an  occasional  eagle,  and 
a  sprinkling  of  small  bii'ds,  comprise  all  there  is  to  represent  the  feathered  race 
in  the  conntiy.  lieptiles  are  also  scarce,  and  are  mostly  confined  to  a  few  horned 
toads,  spotted  lizards,  and  snakes,  of  which  the  only  venomous  kind  is  the  rat- 
tlesnake. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  321 

SECTION    V. 

SOCIAL,    INDUSTRIAL,    AND    EDUCATIONAL    PROGRESS. 

In  all  these  departments  Nevada  has  made  rapid  and  gratifying  progress. 
Iler  population  is  distinguished  for  industry,  order,  and  a  ready  obedience  to 
lawfnl  authority.  Already  nearly  30  church  edifices  have  been  erected  in  the 
State,  at  a  cost  ranging  from  $2,000  to  $40,000  each,  and  an  aggregate  expense 
of  about  $300,000.  These  represent  the  leading  Christian  denominations,  and 
are  in  some  c^xses  spacious  and  handsome  buildings.  Numerous  well  conducted 
schools  have  been  established  imder  an  enlightened  educational  system,  for  the 
suppoit  of  which  liberal  provision  has  been  made  by  the  State.  There  is  also 
a  number  of  academies,  seminaries,  and  high  schools  sustained  by  private  pat- 
ronage. Capacious  halls  for  literary,  social,  and  benevolent  purposes  have  been 
erected  in  all  the  large  towns,  several  of  which  are  supplied  with  gas  and  water 
works  and  commodious  buildings  for  municipal  uses.  Besides  many  minor  indus- 
trial establishments,  several  large  foundries  and  machine  shops  have  been  erected 
in  the  vicinity  of  Virginia,  and  one,  also  of  considerable  capacity,  at  Austin, 
near  the  centre  of  the  State.  A  salt  mill,  an  acid  factory,  and  a  tannery  and 
pottery  speak  of  the  diversified  pursuits  now  obtaining  a  foothold,  and  a  well- 
patronized  press,  issuing  five  daily  and  as  many  weekly  journals,  indicate  the 
intelligence  and  enlightenment  of  the  people.  Of  the  agricultural  capacities 
and  products  of  the  country  so  much  has  been  said  elsewhere  in  this  report  that 
they  need  only  be  glanced  at  in  a  summary  way  in  this  connection.  The  entire 
amount  of  laud,  aralde  and  gi-azing,  enclosed  in  the  State  may  be  roughly  esti- 
mated at  1-50,000  acres,  of  which  one-quarter  at  least  is  planted  to  grain,  giving 
an  average  yield  of  about  20  bushels  to  1.  Neaa-ly  every  cereal  grown  in  the 
most  favored  regions  elsewhere  can,  with  proper  care,  be  successfully  grown  here. 
Even  the  more  delicate  fruits  common  in  the  temperate  zones,  such  as  pears, 
peaches,  and  grapes,  can  be  raised  in  Nevada  if  the  soil  and  site  be  judiciously 
selected  and  their  culture  properly  attended  to,  while  in  the  matter  of  vegetables, 
except  the  more  tender  kind,  no  country  can  produce  them  with  greater  facility 
or  of  better  quality  if  the  requisite  attention  be  paid  to  their  culture.  Besides 
the  vegetables  and  grain  raised  in  this  State,  large  quantities  of  butter  and 
cheese  are  annually  produced,  and  these  commothties  are  very  justly  esteemed 
for  their  excellent  flavor.  Taken  in  the  aggregate,  the  amount  of  stock  kept  in 
the  State  is  quite  large;  the  neat  cattle  number  between  11,000  and  12,000,  and 
the  horses  and  mules  kept  for  farming  purposes  and  draft  about  6,000,  besides 
between  3,000  and  4,000  sheep  and  about  the  same  number  of  swine.  The 
ranges  of  mountain  pasturage  found  in  many  parts  of  the  State,  with  an  almost 
universal  absence  of  weeds,  burs,  and  wild  animals  to  injure  the  wool  and  endan- 
ger the  lives  of  the  flock,  should  recommend  this  country  to  wool  growers  and 
sheep  herders  abroad.  The  tule  lands  furnish  a  good  field  for  raising  swine. 
These  animals  thrive  well  on  the  root  of  that  rush,  even  without  other  food. 
It  is  estimated  that  there  were  7.0,000  tons  of  hay  cut  and  6,000  tons  of  grain 
raised  in  the  State  the  present  year,  besides  sufficient  vegetables  for  home  con- 
sumption. Tliere  are  three  flour  mills,  one  in  operation  and  two  in  course  of 
erection  ;  24  saw-mills,  driving  35  saws,  and  having  a  capacity  to  cut  daily  from 
5,000  to  20,000  feet  of  lumber  each,  or  an  aggregate  of  180,000  feet.  The 
most  of  these  mills  are  propelled  by  steam.  I'heir  cost  ranges  from  $5,000  to 
$15,000;  toUil  cost,  about  $175,000.  The  number  of  quartz  mills  and  reduc- 
tion works  in  this  State,  including  such  as  are  in  course  of  erection,  having  their 
machinery  and  material  on  the  ground,  with  the  prospect  of  an  early  con)pletion, 
may  be  set  down  at  100.  The  most  of  these  mills  are  driven  by  steam,  the  whole 
can-ying  an  aggregate  of  about  1,300  stamps.  The  individual  cost  of  these 
establishments  Viiries  from  $3,000  to  $950,000,  the  cost  of  the  greater  part  rang- 
21 


322  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

ing  from  $40,000  to  S60,000  each,  though  quite  a  number  have  cost  $100,000, 
and  several  much  larger  sums.  At  the  present  time  nearly  all  of  these  establish- 
ments are  in  constant  and  profitable  operation.  None  of  those  completed  and 
in  condition  to  do  good  work  are  idle.  About  60  miles  of  ditching,  the  most  of 
it  of  large  capacity,  has  been  constructed  in  the  State  for  the  pui-pose  of  con- 
ducting water  to  points  where  required  for  the  use  of  mills  or  for  domestic  wants, 
besides  a  large  amount  of  work  expended  on  other  projects  of  this  kind  but  par- 
tially completed  and  a  multitude  of  smaller  ditches  dug  for  mngating  pm-poses. 
Over  1,000  miles  of  toll-road,  some  portions  of  it  very  costly,  has  been  built, 
either  for  subserving  local  necessities  and  wholly  within  the  State,  or  for  the 
purpose  of  improving  thoroughfares  over  the  Sierra,  or  connecting  those  with 
points  in  the  interior.  The  sums  expended  on  account  of  these  improvements 
amount  in  the  aggregate  to  scarcely  less  than  a  million  of  dollars 


SECTION  VI. 

DOUGLAS    COUNTY. 

This  county,  named  after  the  late  Stephen  A.  Douglas,  is  situate  centrally  on 
the  western  border  of  the  State,  having  Ormsby  and  Lyon  counties  on  the  north, 
Esmeralda  on  the  east,  and  California  on  the  west  and  south.  It  has  an  area  of 
about  1,500  square  miles,  forming  in  this  respect  the  fourth  county  in  the  State, 
though  it  contains  more  valuable  timber  land  than  any  other,  except  Washoe,  as 
well  as  a  greater  quantity  of  good  agricultural  land  in  proportion  to  its  size.  In 
1861  it  contained  a  population  of  1,057  ;  the  present  population  is  about  2,000. 
The  western  part  of  thi.s  cotmty  is  covered  by  the  Sierra  Nevada  mountains,  and 
the  eastern  by  the  Pine  Nut  range,  Carson  valley,  embracing  about  200  square 
miles  lying  between  them.  About  one-third  of  this  valley  consists  of  good 
farming  and  meadow  lands ;  the  remainder  consists  of  gravelly  and  sandy  sage 
T)arrens,  the  most  of  it  incapable  of  producing  good  grain  crops,  even  with  the  aid 
of  careful  culture  and  irrigation.  There  are  in  this  valley  several  thousand  acres 
of  tule  land,  which  ])y  diking  and  drainage  might  be  converted  into  valuable  pas- 
ture and  hay  lands.  With  the  exception  of  about  2,000  acres  of  arable  land 
lying  in  Jack's  vallc}',  one  mile  northwest  of  Carson,  nearly  all  the  tillable  soil 
in  this  comity  is  embraced  within  the  limits  of  the  latter,  or  the  mountain  ravines 
tributary  to  it.  Outside  of  these,  Douglas  county  possesses  a  generally  rugged 
surface  and  a  barren  soil,  the  latter  incapable,  except  where  covered  with  forests, 
of  producing  anything  be^'ond  its  native  growth,  the  artemesia,  and  a  scant}^ 
crop  of  bunch  grass.  Much  of  the  soil  on  the  hills  and  mountains  would  grow 
fair  crops  of  grain  could  it  be  irrigated,  but  for  this  there  are,  imfortunately, 
})ut  limited  facilities.  Carson  river,  flowing  centrally  through  the  valley,  together 
^^nth  the  numerous  streams  coming  down  from  the  Sierra,  atlbrd,  to  a  certain  extent, 
means  for  imgation  and  for  the  propulsion  of  machinery.  To  the  latter  use  a 
sufficiency  of  it  has  been  diverted  for  driving  the  machinery  of  six  saw  mills 
and  one  Hour  mill,  without  more  than  partially  appropriating  the  power  that 
cxjuld  be  obtained.  These  mills,  including  also  a  steam  mill  situated  in  the 
western  part  of  the  country,  cost  in  the  aggregate  about  $40,000,  and  have 
a  united  capacity  for  cutting  50,000  feet  of  lumber  per  day.  The  timber 
lands,  fi'om  which  a  good  article  of  lumber  can  be  made,  amount  to  between 
60,000  and  70,000  iicres  within  the  limits  of  the  county.  This  timber  is  sittiate 
on  the  Sierra  Nevada.  The  Pine  Nut  range  contains  only  scattered  groves  of 
pifion,  the  greater  portion  of  it  is  destitute  of  even  thisj  There  are  no  quaitz 
mills  in  this  county.  As  yet  no  productive  mines  have  been  developed  within 
its  boundaries.     Agriculture,  hay  making,  and  stock  ranching  constitute  the 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  323 

principal  jiursnits  of  its  inhabitants  ;  the  number  of  work  liorscs  and  miilos  con- 
tained in  it  beincf  estimated  at  800;  tlio  ne.'it  cattle  at  1,800,  and  the  swine  at 
400.  Miieli  poultry  is  also  kept  by  the  farmers,  and  considerable 'quuntilies  of 
butter  and  cheese  are  made  annualh'.  The  amount  of  hay  cut  here  in  18GG 
reached  15,000  tons  ;  the  grain  raised  was  estimated  at  570  tons.  Thirty  thou- 
sanda  acres  of  land  have  been  enclosed,  of  which  between  G,000  iind  7,000  are 
under  cultivation.  Douglas  is  well  supplied  with  wagon  roads.  The  extensive 
valley  occupying  its  centre,  and  the  numerous  mountain  passes  leading  out  of  it, 
favor  their  construction.  Genoa,  the  county  seat  and  only  town  in  the  county  of 
considerable  size,  contains  about  400  inhabitants.  Besides  a  brick  school-house 
and  two  churches,  it  contains  a  handsome  court-house  erected  at  a  cost  of  $20,000. 
The  value  of  taxable  property  in  the  countiy  is  estimated  at  SG00,000.  There 
are  numerous  hot  springs  situate  in  and  along  the  margin  of  Carson  valley,  i)ut 
none  of  them  are  of  a  magnitude  or  possessed  of  other  features  requiriHg  spocial 
notice. 

While,  as  observed,  no  mines  have  been  developed  to  a  productive  state  in  this 
county,  it  is  believed  to  contain  some  valuable  cupriferous,  if  not  also  argen- 
tiferous, lodes,  upon  some  of  which  a  large  amount  of  exploratory  labor  has 
been  expended.  Commencing  in  1859,  several  mining  districts  have  since  been 
laid  out  in  the  county,  tlie  earlier  with  a  view  to  operations  on  silver-bearing 
lodes ;  one  or  two,  more  recently  erected  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  county,  for 
the  purpose  of  seeming  and  working  the  copper  veins  existing  at  that  point. 
These  latter  distiicts,  and  one  or  two  others,  are  all  that  still  maintain  their 
organization.  The  rest,  created  under  excitement  and  insufficient  exploration, 
have  long  since  been  abandoned.  For  fuller  information  touching  these  cup- 
riferous lodes  the  article  on  copper  may  be  consulted.  The  Eagle  district,  situate 
on  the  Pine  Nut  range  in  the  southern  part  of  the  count}*,  contains  a  number  of 
quartz  veins,  some  of  them  displaying  prominent  outcrops.  In  the  work  of 
exploring  two  of  these  ledges,  the  Peck  and  the  Mammoth,  a  thousand  fcyt  of 
tunneling  has  been  run.  Operations,  commenced  in  1860,  were  continuously 
prosecuted  for  four  or  five  years  thereafter,  and  although  the  ledge  has  been  pene- 
trated in  these  claims  at  a  considerable  depth,  no  paying  body  of  ore  has  been 
developed.  It  is  said  the  work,  for  some  time  suspended,  is  to  be  resumed. 
Already  about  8100,000  have  been  expended  upon  these  two  claims,  fro.m  neither 
of  which  has  any  amount  of  millable  ore  been  extracted.  Adjoining  Douglas 
on  the  south  are  situate  Markleyville,  Mogul,  Monitor,  Silver  Mountain,  and 
several  other  less  important  districts,  all  silver-producing  and  lying  east  of  tjie. 
SieiTa,  though  in  Aljiiiu^  county,  California.  They  are  located  on  the  head-waters 
of  Carson  river,  distant  from  20  to  40  miles  from  Genoa.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  lat- 
ter place  is  a  district  bearing  the  same  name  and  stretching  along  the  base  of  the 
Sierra,  in  which  a  good  many  claims  were  locak'd  about  six  years  ago.  Here 
afterwards  a  large  amount  .of  work  was  done  and  money  expended,  but  with  no 
very  detenninate  results.  The  outlay  at  this  point,  divided  amcmg  some  ten  or 
twelve  com])anies,  could  scarcely  haveljeen  less  than  $200,000,  over  3,000  linear 
feet  of  tunnelling  having  ])een  excavated,  besides  other  work  done.  For  the  past 
year  or  two  operations  have  been  suspended,  and,  as  is  gencn-ally  supposed,  with 
no  prospect  of  an  early  resumption.  Could  a  heavy  body  of  moderately  rich 
ore  be  found  at  this  spot  it  could  hardly  fail  to  impart  value  to  these  mines, 
owing  to  the  cheapness  with  wliich  it  could  be  workf^d  by  reason  of  their  prox- 
imity to  wood  and  water.  The  i)rospect,  however,  of  reaching  even  this  result 
is  not  encouraging.  In  a  range  of  low  hills  at  the  north  end  of  Carson  valley 
some  small  veins  of  gold  and  silver-bearing  quartz  were  found  about  a  year  ago. 
Upon  these  several  shafts  have  l)een  sunk,  and  in  the  limited  operations  conducted 
at  this  place  is  to  be  found  nearly  all  the  work  now  being  done  upon  mines  within 
lie  bounds  of  this  county. 


324  EES0UECE6    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

SECTIOJf   YII. 

ORMSB  Y    C  OUNT  Y. 

Tliis  county,  wliich  adjoins  Douglas  on  the  north,  takes  its  name  from  "William 
Ormsby,  an  early  settler  on  the  eastern  slope  and  one  of  the  founders  of  Carson 
City.  Though  of  small  dimensions,  devoid  of  productive  mines,  and  containing 
but  a  moderate  amount  of  arable  land,  its  central  antl  otherwise  eligible  situa- 
tion, extensive  pineries,  and  ample  water  power  have  built  up  within  it  important 
industries,  rendwing  the  population  among  the  most  thrifty  in  the  State.  Carson 
City  is  the  capital  of  the  State,  and  has  been  selected  for  the  site  of  the  United 
States  branch  mint.  The  census  report  of  1861  showed  the  county  to  contain 
2,076  inhabitants,  a  number  now  increased  to  about  2,500,  of  whom  two-thu'ds 
l^erhaps  reside  in  Carson  City,  and  a  sixth  in  Empire,  a  milling  hamlet,  situate 
on  the  river  three  miles  east  of  Carson.  A  large  proportion  of  the  inhabitants 
are  engaged  in  teaming,  lumbering,  and  cutting  fire-wood.  Three-fourths  of  the 
county  is  covered  with  mountains.  The  Sierra  occupies  the  western  and  the 
Pine  Nut  range  the  eastern  parts.  These  mountains  are  here  timbered  as  in 
Douglas  county,  and  the  broad  and  sandy  plain,  fertile  only  in  its  western  part, 
known  as  Eagle  valley,  lies  between  them.  Across  from  south  to  north  runs  the 
Carson  river,  affording  good  water-power  and  an  easy  channel  for  floating  dowti  saw- 
logs  and  fuel  from  the  forests  about  the  head-waters  of  this  stream.  The  quan- 
tity of  these  _  materials  thus  brought  down  to  Empire  amounts  to  5,000,000  feet 
lumber  and  5,000  cords  of  wood  annually.  The  streams  issuing  from  the  Sierra 
also  supply  a  cf)nsiderable  amount  of  propulsive  power,  besides  furnishing  Carson 
City  with  water  for  domestic  uses,  and  the  arable  land  about  it,  of  which  there 
are  several  thousand  acres,  with  means  for  irrigation,  nearly  the  whole  of  this 
wftter  having  thus  been  utilized.  A  considerable  amount  of  lumber  is  made 
in  tliis  county.  The  forests  of  pine  and  fir  with  water  power  in  their  midst,  and 
the  proximity  of  the  Comstock  mines,  insure  a  constant  market  and  supply 
many  advantages  for  caiT^nng  on  the  business.  The  wood  lands  consist  of  about 
20,000  acres  of  large  timber,  situate  in  the  Sierra,  and  2,000  or  3,000  acres  of 
scattered  pifion  fit  only  for  fuel.  About  2,000,000  feet  of  lumber  and  14,000 
cords  of  wood  are  annually  cut  within  the  limits  of  the  county,  besides  that 
floated  down  the  Carson.  There  are  three  saw-mills  in  the  county,  built  at  an 
aggregate  cost  of  $30,000  ;  daily  capacity  40,000  feet.  About  6,000  acres  of 
land  are  under  fence,  of  which  200  are  sown  to  grain  and  100  planted  with  vege- 
tables. Last  year  200  tons  of  hay  were  cut  and  180  tons  of  grain  raised,  25  of 
wheat,  50  of  oats,  and  105  of  barley,  the  average  yield  being  nearly  40  bushels 
per  acre.  This  is  about  the  ])roportion  in  which  these  several  kinds  of  grain  are 
raised  throughout  the  State,  though  this  yield  is  much  above  the  average.  The 
county  contains  430  horses  and  mules,  700  head  of  neat  cattle,  200  of  which  are 
milcli  cows  and  450  work  oxen,  250  sheep,  and  500  swine.  A  tannc-ry  and  acid 
works  at  Carson  City,  with  sandstone  quanies  near  by,  together  with  lime  and  char- 
coal burning,  and  the  several  pursuits  already  mentioned,  give  to  this  county  a  more 
varied  industry  than  is  common  elsewhere  in  the  State.  The  acid  works  have 
engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  sulphuric  acid,  an  article  employed  in  the  benofi- 
ciating  of  silver  ore,  with  fair  prospects  of  success.  About  2,000  pounds  of 
sulphur,  procured  from  the  beds  in  Humboldt  county,  are  consumed  here  weekly. 
The  sandstone  quames  yield  a  good  article  of  building  material.  It  is  easily 
gotten  out  and  is  readily  shaped  by  the  chisel  when  first  quanied,  but  hardens 
on  exposure  to  the  atmosphere.  The  United  States  branch  mint  is  constructed 
of  this  stone,  as  arc  also  the  penitentiary,  county  buildings,  used  for  State  pur- 
poses, and  many  of  the  better  class  of  edifices  in  Carson  City.  Near  the  town 
are  two  large  hot  springs,  one  of  which  has  been  handsomely  improved  for, 
bathing  purposes.     Five  miles  to  the  northeast  is  a  bed  of  white  marble,  very 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  325 

pare  and  easily  ^\TOugllt.  Giauular  limestone  is  funnd  at  several  places.  Cop- 
per, 'u\n\,  and  eoal  are  among  the  mineral  products  of  Ornisby,  as  elsewhere 
related.  Thore  are  eight  quartz  mills  in  this  county,  live  diiven  by  water  and 
three  by  water  and  steam,  the  whole  carrying  175  stamps  and  costing  $4-^)0,000. 
They  are  all  kept  running  on  ores  from  the  (Jomstock  vein.  The  j^lexican,  one 
of  the  largest  of  the  ninnber,  has  been  engaged  for  some  time  j)ast  in  working 
over  the  sulphurets  which  for  several  years  had  been  accunudating  in  the  com- 
pany's reservoir. 

Although  numerous  mining  districts  have  been  laid  of!"  in  this  county,  some  as 
early  as  1859,  and  a  large  amount  of  work  done  on  a  lew  of  the  letlges  located, 
no  mineral  deposits  of  value  have  been  reached,  nor  has  much  attention  been 
}iaid  to  the  business  of  mining  for  the  past  few  years.  In  the  Eagle  district,  the 
earliest  erected,  lying  along  the  l)ase  of  the  Sierra  west  of  Carson  City,  several 
lodes  were  located  in  1859,  some  of  which  having  been  extensively  prospected 
tlie  following  year  by  means  of  shafts  and  tunnels,  and  not  turning  oat  according 
to  expectation,  the  whole  was  abandoned.  The  next  season  a  fitful  interest  was 
awakened  in  regard  to  supposed  valuable  discoveries  made  on  the  bald  hills  south- 
west of  the  town,  which  having  led  to  the  locating  of  many  claims  in  that  neigh- 
borhood, eventuated,  soon  aftei',  in  their  total  al)andonment,  since  which  time 
nothing  further  has  been  done  either  towards  locating  or  working  mines  in  the 
district.  The  same  yeai"  the  Cle<u"  Creek  district  was  the  scene  of  much  excite- 
ment and  activity.  Extensive  mining  grounds  were  taken  up  and  prospecting 
operations  initiated.  Here  a  ninnber  of  long  tunnels  wc.re  afterwards  driven 
and  deep  shafts  sunk,  but  none  of  them  availed  to  reach  ore  deposits  of  a  remu- 
nerative kind,  and  the  district,  under  an  absence  of  population  and  an  entire 
cessation  of  labor  for  several  years,  is  considered  practically  abandoned.  In  the 
Sullivan  district,  east  of  Carson  river,  organized  in  1860,  there  were  many  locations 
made  and  much  desultory  work  done  during  that  and  the  following  year ;  and 
although  some  of  the  lodes  proved  highly  auriferows  in  spots,  they  failed,  so  far 
as  penetrated,  in  the  matter  of  persistence  and  regularity.  Another  drawback 
upon  the  success  of  these  mines  was  at  that  time  experienced  in  the  absence  of 
mills  for  working  the  ores,  which  were,  therefore,  nnavailable,  compelling  claim- 
holders  who  were  without  means  to  suspend  work,  leaving  the  i.voblem  as  to  the 
character  and  value  of  these  lodes  still  unsolved.  The  ores  in  most  of  these 
districts  carry  considerable  copper,  and  in  some  cases  a  notable  percentage  of 
fi'ee  gold.  Washings  for  the  latter  metal  have  been  found  renuuierative  at 
several  localities  in  the  county.  At  a  spot  three  miles  west  of  Carson  sluicing 
operations  were  for  some  time  carried  on,  having  been  in  progress  until  recently. 
Although  no  regular  vein  was  found,  the  smface  eaith  gave  fair  returns  in  free 
gold.    "  ° 


SECTION   Yin. 

WASHOE    COUNTY. 

This  county  takes  its  name  from  the  tribe  of  aborigines  who  formerly  inhab- 
ited this  part  of  the  State.  It  lies  north  of  Ormeby ;  its  western  portion  covers 
a  large  and  well  timbered  section  of  the  Sierra,  and  its  central  a  chain  of  fertile 
valleys,  of  which  Washoe,  Pleasant,  Steamboat,  Truckee  and  Long  are  the 
principal.  With  the  exception  of  these  valleys,  which  contain  about  150,000 
acres  of  farming  and  grass  lands  and  the  timber  lands  mentioned,  nearly  the 
entire  county  consists  of  sage  plains,  rugged  hills  and  mountains.  The  most  of 
it  is  arid,  ban-en,  and  unfit  for  cultivation,  the  only  vegetable  growth  found 
upon  it  being  a  sparse  crop  of  bunch  grass,  and  in  a  few  spots  groves  of  scrubby 


326  EESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

pine.  The  valleys,  however,  are  extremely  fertile,  and  witli  careful  cultivation 
and  irrigation  are  made  to  produce  hay,  grain  and  vegetables.  Considerable 
quantities  of  butter  and  cheese  are  also  made.  At  the  south  end  of  Washoe 
valley  is  situated  a  shallow  lake  five  miles  long  and  two  wide,  the  surplus  waters 
of  which  run  through  a  slough  and  are  made  to  do  service  in  driving  several 
quartz  mills  at  Washoe  City,  a  few  miles  below.  The  numerous  streams  falling 
from  the  Sien-a  are  also  employed  for  propelling  quartz  and  saw  mills  located 
along  them.  Pleasant  valley,  a  small  but  fertile  basin,  lies  two  miles  north  of 
Washoe.  Steamboat  valley,  the  site  of  the  hot  springs  elsewhere  described,  lies 
three  miles  north  of  Pleasant  valley.  It  contains  some  good  land,  opening  eight 
miles  below  the  hot  springs  into  the  Truckee  meadows,  a  tract  embracing  several 
thousand  acres  of  partly  arable  and  grass  lands.  The  population  of  this  county 
numbers  about  3,000.  It  contains  several  small  towns,  of  which  Ophir,  situate 
near  the  mill  and  reduction  works  of  the  Ophir  Company,  has  500,  and  Wajshoe 
City,  the  county  seat,  three  miles  finther  north,  800.  Franktowu,  Galena, 
Crystal  Peak,  and  Glendale — the  latter  two  on  the  Truckee — are  small  agricul- 
tural and  mining  hamlets  containing  from  100  to  200  inhabitanti>  each. 

WTiile  the  wealth  of  the  county  consists  largely  of  its  agricultural  resources, 
the  business  of  liunbering  and  quartz  milling  is  also  extensively  engaged  in. 
The  annual  product  of  hay  amounts  to  about  7,000  tons,  and  of  grain  to  1,500 
tons.  There  are  800  horses  and  mules  and  1,000  head  of  neat  cattle  in  the 
county,  nearly  half  of  the  latter  being  milch  cows ;  sheep  and  swine  number 
about  500  each.  There  are  20,000  acres  of  land  enclosed,  of  wljich  4,000  are 
under  cultivation.  There  are  15  saw-mills,  most  of  them  driven  by  steam  power; 
the  whole  cut  about  1,300,000  feet  of  lumber  per  month,  besides  lath  and 
shingles,  for  making  which  several  of  them  have  machines  attached.  In  addition 
to  this,  400,000  feet  of  hewn  timber  and  largo  quantities  of  cord  wood  are  cut 
for  the  Virginia  market.*  Although  this  county,  like  Douglas  and  Ormsby,  is 
without  productive  mines,  there  are  ten  quartz  mills  within  its  limits,  several  of 
which  are  large  and  first-class  in  their  appointments.  The  Ophir  Compaiy's 
mill  carries  72  stamps  and  cost  half  a  million  of  dollars.  DalVs  mill  at  Frank- 
town,  bunit  last  spring  but  since  rebuilt,  carries  60  stamps  and  cost  a  (piarter  of 
a  million.  Most  of  these  mills  are  propelled  by  steam  ;  several  employ  both 
steam  and  water.  They  carry,  in  the  aggregate,  281  stamps,  and  cost  $1,420,000. 
With  the  exception  of  the  English  Company's  mill  on  tlrc  Truckee,  built  in 
advance  of  mining  developments,  all  these  establishments  are  now  running  on 
Comstock  ores,  and  generally  with  remuneraitive  restxlts. 

The  amount  of  taxable  proportv  in  the  comity,  in  1861,  was  SI, 140, 000;  in 
1863,  $2,527,500,  and  is  now  believed  to  be  at  least  $3,000,000.  There 
have  been  30  miles  of  canal  built  for  conducting  water  to  mills  and  other  enter- 
j)rises  of  this  kind  projected,  some  of  which  may  be  carried  out.  Although 
iiboundingin  metalliferous  lodes  and  mineral  deposits  of  ditferent  kinds,  the  county 
is  still  without  ore-yielding  mines,  a  circmnstance  attributable,  in  the  case  of  gold 
and  silver-bearing  lodes,  partially  to  the  barrenness  of  the  latter  in  their  upper 
portions,  and  in  part  to  the  superficial  and  ill-directed  character  of  prospecting 
labors.  Of  thoi deposits  of  copper  and  coal,  mention  has  been  made  elsewhere. 
A  number  of  mining  districts  have  at  various  times  been  formed,  some  of  them 
as  early  as  1859,  the  year  of  the  silver  discovery.  In  the  spring  of  1860  the 
Argentine  district,  lying  in  the  range  of  mountains  east  of  Washoe  valley,  was 
erected ;  and  although  the  ledges  there  have  periodically  since  been  the  subjects 
of  sanguine  expectation,  the  ore  ]n-ocured  from  them  has. done  little  towards 
meeting  the  expenses  incurred  in  their  partial  development.  Scarcely  anj'  work 
has  been  done  in  the  district  for  the  last  three  years,  and  the  lodes  can 
liardly  be  said  to  possess  any  present  value.  The  history  of  this,  the  first  dis- 
trict formed,  will  serve  to  illustrate  that  of  all  others  subsequently  erected,  in 
every  one  of  which  the  high  hopes  at  cue  time  entertained  failed  of  final  realiza- 


WEST  OF  TUE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  327 

tion.  Of  the  many  claims  located  tlnongliout  tlie  couDty  nearly  all  may  be 
considereil  abandoned,  nor  is  it  probable  that  work  will  ever  be  resumed  on  more 
than  a  few  of  theni.  The  quartz  veins,  though  of  fair  size,  are  generally  hard 
and  vitret)ns,  the  country  rock  being  mostly  mctamorphic  slate  and  granite.  The 
ores  are  usually  impregnated  with  comjiounds  of  iron  and  copper,  caiTying  also, 
in  some  cases,  a  small  percentage  of  sulphuretted  silver,  with  jiarticles  of  native 
metal  and  a  sprinkling  of  free  gold.  So  much  of  the  latter  has  been  found  in 
the  earth  at  several  jioints  as  to  atJbrd  fair  surface  digging  for  a  short  time.  In 
the  Wisconsin,  district,  at  the  south  end  of  Washoe  valley,  several  (;ompanies 
made  wages  for  a  period  of  some  months,  sluice-washing  the  auriferous  ground 
at  that  place.  The  Galena  district,  as  its  name  implies,  abounds  in  the  sulphuret 
of  lead,  which  here  occurs  in  the  shape  of  an  argentiferous  galena.  The  metal 
extracted  from  it  assa\'s  about  8200  per  ton  in  silver.  The  vein  matter  carries 
fi'om  20  to  60  per  cent,  of  metallic  lead.  Between  the  walls  of  the  veins  and  the 
gangue  rests  a  thin  stratum  of  arsenical  pyrites,  so  placed,  however,  as  to  render 
tlieii'  mechanical  separation  easy.  Upon  several  of  these  lodes  work  has  been 
done.  The  Alford  has  been  explored  by  means  of  a  tunnel  several  hundred  feet 
long  and  an  inclin'^  shaft  sunk  at  its  temiinus.  Various  attempts  have  lieeu 
made  to  reduce  this  ore  by  smelting,  none  of  which  have  met  with  entire  success. 
The  principal  lode  having  lately  passed  into  the  hands  of  a  company  possessed 
of  ample  means  and  the  requisite  skill,  better  results,  it  is  believed,  will  bo  reached 
through  the  eflPorts  now  about  to  be  made  for  smelting  it  on  a  large  scale.  The 
Silver  l^eak  distnct,  besides  the  beds  of  lignite  there  found,  contains  a  number 
of  metalliferous  lodes,  some  of  which  prospect  well  in  the  precious  metals.  The 
facilities  enjoyed  through  the  forests  and  water  power  at  that  place  will  secure 
the  working  of  low  grade  ores  with  profit,  if  only  the  quantity  be  large  and  easily 
pmcnred.  A  lot  of  ore  taken  from  the  Truckee  Ophir,  a  large  ledge  and  the 
only  one  yet  much  opone-tl,  was  found  to  yield  by  mill  process  at  the  rate  of  $30 
per  ton  in  gold  and  silver.  A  town  has  been  laid  out  near  these  mines  which, 
as  it  is  within  two  miles  of  the  Tiiickee  river  and  the  Central  Pacific  railroad, 
and  suiTounded  with  forests,  has  the  promise  of  growth.  Several  saw-mills  in 
the  vicinity  already  lind  market  for  all  the  lumber  the)'  can  make,  and,  w-ith  the 
railroad  completed,  quantities  of  this  article  will  probably  be  manufactm'ed  at 
tliis  point. 


SECTION   IX. 

STOREY    COUNTY. 

This  county,  named  in  honor  of  Captain  Storey,  who  lost  his  life  in  the  Indian 
fight  near  Pyramid  lake,  in  the  spring  of  1860,  is  not  only  of  limited  extent  but 
extremely  barren,  containing  a  smaller  amount  of  good  land,  less  timber,  and 
fewer  streams  than  any  other  in  the  State.  It  is,  in  fact,  without  agricultural, 
lumbering,  or  even  milling  resources,  except  in  the  latter  case  where  some  have 
been  supphed  by  steam.  The  only  pasturage  is  that  afibrded  by  the  bunch- 
grass — short-lived  and  scanty  at  best,  since  there  is  little  of  it  except  on  the 
mountains,  and  when  once  eaten  off  does  not  readily  grow  up  again  the  same 
season.  Originally  there  was  a  sparse  growth  of  pinon  on  the  hills  about  Vir- 
ginia, but  it  is  now  nearly  all  cut  away,  leaving  both  the  town  and  the  mills 
dependent  on  outside  localities  for  fuel.  Nearly  jill  the  northern  and  western 
part  of  the  county,  embracing  fully  three-fourths  of  its  area,  lies  on  the  high  and 
barren  chain  of  mountains  known  as  the  Washoe  range,  and  which,  commencing 
near  Carson  City,  extends  to  the  Truckee  river,  fonning  a  sort  of  spur  or  otT-shoot 
of  the  main  Sierra.     Situaied  along  the  eastern  slope  of  tliis  range,  about  half- 


328  EESOUECES    OF   STATES    AND    TEEEITORIES 

way  up  its  side,  and  rnnning  parallel  ^dtli  its  longitudinal  axis,  is  tLe  Comstock 
lode,  with  Vii'ginia  City  built  immediately  over  it,  and  Gold  Hill,  lialf  a  mile 
fm"tlier  south,  a  little  below  the  line  of  its  strike.*  The  eastera  part. of  the  county 
is  composed  of  the  desolate  sage  barren  stretching  from  the  Carson  north  to  the 
Truckee  river — a  treeless,  arid  and  sand}'^  waste,  alike  destitute  of  vegetable  and 
animal  life.  Storey,  like  all  its  sister  counties,  has  been  the  theatre  of  numerous 
mining  excitements,  leading  to  the  creation  and  sudden  peopling  of  new  districts 
to  be  almost  as  suddenly  abandoned  and  soon  after  forgotten.  In  this  manner 
at  least  a  dozen  districts  have  first  and  last  been  foraied,  scarcely  any  of  which 
continue  to  maintain  their  organization  or  are  recognized  as  having  a  legal 
existence.  Still  there  are  a  number  of  districts  in  the  county  besides  those  of 
Virginia  and  Gold  Hill  that  continue  to  be  recognized  as  valid,  and  in  some  of 
which,  as  the  American  Flat  and  Flowery,  there  is  much  work  being  done,  and 
in  a  few  instance-s  with  satisfactory  results  or  good  prospects  of  ultimate  success. 
The  amount  of  land  enclosed  by  fence  does  not  exceed  5,000  acres  in  the  county, 
of  which  1,000,  perhaps,  are  under  cultivation,  a  good  shai'e  of  it  being  planted 
with  vegetables,  which  in  a  few  choice  localities  are  found  to  do  well.  Some 
attempts  at  raising  fruit  in  a  small  way  have  also  been  attended  with  success. 
About  100  tons  of  hay  are  cut  yearly  in  the  county,  but  as  yet  no  grain  has  been 
raised.  Storey  contains  about  1,000  head  of  work-horses  and  mules,  500  neat 
cattle — one-half  of  them  milch  cows — 100  sheep  and  400  swine.  An  immense 
number  of  beef  cattle,  sheep  and  hogs  are  slaughtered  here  annually,  the  most 
of  which  are  driven  in  from  California.  For  its  size  there  is  a  great  extent  of 
costly  toll  road  in  this  county,  several  hundred  thousand  dollars  having  been 
laid  otit  in  this  class  of  improvements,  some  of  which  return  large  revenues  to 
the  owners.  The  assessable  property  in  the  county  amounted  for  1866  to 
S6,343,353,  the  estimate  for  the  present  year  being  about  $7,000,000.  Stoi«ey 
county  contains  63  quartz  mills  canying  665  stamps,  all,  except  two  or  tlu'ee  of 
small  capacity,  driven  by  steam,  the  aggregate  cost  of  the  whole  being  $3,500,000. 
The  population,  which  in  1861  reached  4,500,  is  now  estimated  at  12,000. 


SECTION   X. 

LYON    COUNTY.        • 

Lyon  cotmty,  named  after  General  Lyon,  who  fell  in  Missouri  during  the  late 
rebellion,  bears  a  strong  resemblance  in  its  general  features  to  Storey,  except 
that  it  contains  a  considerable  tract  of  piiion  on  the  Pino  Nut  range,  occupying 
the  eastern  part  of  the  county,  and  a  belt  of  good  land  situate  along  the  Carson 
river  rnnning  through  the  centre.  A  multitude  of  ledges  have  been  located  in 
the  various  mining  districts  formed  from  time  to  tune  within  the  limits  of  this 
county,  the  money  expended  upon  which  has  amounted  in  the  aggregate  to  mil- 
lions of  dollars;  yet,  with  the  exception  of  the  Daney  mine  and  some  small  lodes 
along  Gold  canon,  nothing  affording  a  steady  supply  of  pay  ore  has  been  developed 
in  the  county,  though  there  are  unquestionably  many  lodes  that  a  more  persistent 
mode  of  exploration  might  have  brought  to  a  paying  point.  The  only  districts 
in  the  county  that  continue  to  maintain  an  organization  are  the  Devil's  Gate,  the 
earliest  fonned,  the  Blue  Sulphur  Spring,  Brown's  Indian  Spring,  and  Palmyra, 
in  none  of  which  has  much  active  mining  been  carried  on  for  the  past  three  years. 
Of  the  coal  deposits  situated  in  the  Pine  Nut  mountains  a  description  will  be  found 
in  the  article  treating  of  that  mineral.  In  the  absence  of  productive  mines,  milling, 
teaming  and  wood-chopping  have  become  the  leading  pursuits  of  the  inhabitants, 

*  See  Section  XVI,  on  tho  Comstock  lodo. 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  329 

vorv  little  attention  beini^  paid  to  agriculture,  a^,  imleed,  there  is  but  little  arable 
land  in  the  comity.  The  hay  eut  amounts  to  about  1,000  tons  annually;  the 
fjnun  raised  to  100  tons;  a  good  many  vegotables  of  line  quality  being  also  raised. 
Lyon  contains  500  horses  and  mules,  200  head  of  neat  cattle,  100  sheep,  and 
lio  swine.  About  o,000  acres  of  land  is  fenced  in,  of  -which  1,500  is  under 
cultivation.  The  iidiabitants,  numbering  1,G50  in  1861,  are  now  estimated  at 
2,500.  There  are  41  quartz  mills  in  the  county — 13  driven  by  water,  22  by 
steam,  and  six  by  water  and  steam — the  whole  canying  600  stamjis  and  costing 
SI. 500. 000.  The  only  considerable  towns  in  the  county  are  Silver  City  in  Gold 
Ciiuon,  and  Daytou  on  Carson  river,  each  containing  about  1,200  inhabitants. 


SECTIOx\   XI. 
EOOP    COUNTY. 

This  county,  occupying  a  long  and  narrow  strip  of  territory  in  the  northwest- 
em  part  of  the  State,  is  named  after  Isaac  N.  Roop,  an  early  settler  in  Honey 
Lake  Valley,  and  at  one  time  governor  of  the  Provisional  Ten'itory  of  Nevada. 
It  was  at  first  called  Lake,  having  been  changed  to  Roop  in  1862.  The  county 
lias  never  been  organized,  but  is  attached  to  Washoe  for  judicial  and  political 
purposes.  At  the  time  it  was  first  erected,  in  1861,  it  was  supposed  to  embrace 
within  its  limits  Hoiiey  Lake  valley,  the  only  settlement  in  it.  The  adjustment 
of  the  boundary  line  between  Nevada  and  California,  in  1863,  having  thrown 
tliis  valley  into  the  latter,  left  this  county  almost  without  population.  The 
settlement  since  then  of  Surprise  Valley,  in  the  extreme  northwestern  part  of  the 
State,  has  brought  within  the  boundaries  of  Roop  a  population  of  several  hun- 
dred, a  number  which  is  likely  soon  to  be  further  augmented,  as  the  county  is 
reputed  to  be  rich  in  mineral  wealth,  and  there  are  known  to  be  considerable 
tracts  of  good  land  in  the  northern  part  still  open  for  occupation.  This  region, 
including  also  the  northern  and  western  pails  of  Humboldt  county,  has  for 
a  long  time  been  infested  by  a  vicious  race  of  Indians,  whose  presence  has 
tended  greatly  to  retard  its  exploration  and  settlement ;  but  as  these  savages 
are  now  pretty  well  sul)dued,  tlio  country  is  likely  in  a  short  time  to  become 
more  thoroughly  prospected  and  its  value  for  mining  and  agricaltural  purjwses 
more  fully  ascertained.  The  greater  portion  of  it  is  undoul»tedly  very  bairen  and 
forl)idding,  consisting  for  the  most  part  of  rough,  arid,  and  timV)erless  mountains, 
or  equally  dry  and  sterile  plains.  All  accounts,  however,  agree  in  representing 
Surprise  valley  as  being  extensive  and  fertile,  and  one  of  the  finest  districts,  both 
for  stock-raising  and  grain  growing,  in  the  State.  This  valley,  a  portion  of 
which  lies  in  California,  is  50  miles  long  and  from  10  to  15  broad.  It  extends 
north  and  south ;  contains  three  lakes  which  cover  nearly  one  half  its  area.  It 
is  walled  in  on  the  west  by  a  lofty  spur  of  the  SieiTa  Nevada,  having  a  range 
of  low  rolling  hills  on  the  east.  The  mountains  on  the  west  are  well  timbered 
with  white  and  yellow  pine,  and  along  their  lower  slopes  with  cedar.  The 
arable  land  lies  along  the  base  of  this  range  and  between  it  and  the  lakes,  having 
a  gentle  declivity  towards  the  latter,  and  is  covered  at  all  seasons  of  the  year 
with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  blue-joint,  clover,  rimothy  and  rye  grass,  some  of 
which  is  six  and  seven  feet  high,  and  standing  so  close  that  in  places  four  tons 
of  hay  can  bo  cut  to  the  acre.  Across  this  alluvial  belt,  which  is  several  miles 
wide,  course  every  few  miles  streams  of  pure  cold  water,  affording  ])ropulsive 
power  and  the  facilities  for  irrigation.  The  land  is  light,  warm,  and  easily  culti- 
vated, and  produces  with  little  trouble  prolific  crops  of  grain.  The  planting  of 
1866  yielded  an  average  of  50  busheli}  of  wheat  and  nearly  60  of  barley  to 
the  acre.     The  grain  is  clean  and  heavy.     This  year  the  crops,  under  more 


330  EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND   TERRITORIES 

extensive  planting,  have  been  equally  good.  Vegetables  can  be  grown  with 
very  little  care.  The  climate  of  this  valley  is  mild  and  healthful.  Very  little 
snow  falls  in  winter,  and  sickness  amongst  the  inhabitants  is  of  rare  occurrence. 
Stock  require  neither  shelter  nor  fodder  in  the  winter,  but  are  able  to  keep  fat 
the  year  round  on  the  native  grasses.  There  are  at  the  present  time  about ' 
10,000  head  of  cattle',  and  3,000  horses  grazing  here,  many  of  which  having  been 
driven  in  from  California  for  the  purpose  of  being  recruited,  will,  as  soon  as  they 
become  fat,  be  taken  away.  The  population  numbers  about  250,  and  is  con- 
stantly increasing,  as  the  settlers  feel  safe  under  the  military  protection  now- 
extended  to  them,  against  further  Indian  depredations.  Along  the  base  of  the 
mountain  on  the  west  side  of  the  valley  are  a  multitude  of  warm  springs,  some 
of  them  remarkable  for  their  depth  and  volume.  Free  gold  has  been  found  in 
small  quantities  on  several  streams  in  this  part  of  the  country-,  and  there  is  reason 
for  believing  that  both  vein  mining  and  surface  digging  will  yet  be  earned  on 
here  with  profit.  With  a  mining  population  to  consume  the  products  of  the 
fanner,  this  region  could  scarcely  fail  to  fill  up  rapidly  with  a  hardy  and  pros- 
perous people. 


SKCTION    III. 
HUMBOLDT    CO'UNTY. 

This  county,  named  after  the  principal  river  running  through  it,  ranks  among 
the  larger  counties  of  the  State.  Its  western  half  is  covered  with  sandy  deserts, 
low  ranges  of  monutains,  isolated  hills,  and  extensive  alkali  flats,  converted  in 
the  wet  season  into  mud  lakes.  The  northern  and  eastern  portions  consist  of 
lofty  chains  of  mountains,  broken  towards  the  northeast  into  iiTcgiilar  masses, 
and  running  in  the  southeast  in  narro-v\'  parallel  ranges  separated  by  valleys  of  a 
similar  conformation.  Taken  as  a  whole  the  region  is  dr}^,  desolate,  and  but 
illy  supplied  with  grass  and  water.  Timber  is  also  very  scarce  in  most  parts  of 
this  county,  there  being  none  fit  for  lumber.  The  only  trees  found  here  ai-e  the 
piiion  and  a  scrubby  species  of  juniper,  the  latter  of  little  value  even  for  fuel. 
The  quantity  of  agricultural  land  is  also  comparatively  small,  being  confined  mostly 
to  the  valleys  of  the  Humboldt  river  and  of  Weniessa,  Umashaw,  and  Weather- 
low  creeks,  with  some  isolated  spots  of  good  soil  in  the  larger  valleys  and  at  the 
entrance  to  the  mountain  canons.  Bunch  grass  is  found  nearly  everywhere 
except  on  the  alkali  flats  and  arid  deserts,  though  in  many  places  it  is  much 
scattered  and  far  from  abundant.  High  basaltic  table  lands  cut  by  fissure-like 
chasms,  constitute  a  feature  in  the  northwestern  part  of  the  county.  In  many 
of  these  depressions,  which  have  precipitous  sides  varying  from  200  to  1,000 
feet  high,  are  small  alkali  lakes,  the  beds  of  which  become  perfectly  white  on 
drying  up  in  summer,  from  the  depositions  of  magnesia,  salt,  and  soda  left 
behind.  To  the  south  of  this  region  occur  in  their  greatest  extent  the  mud  lakes 
peculiar  to  the  geography  of  Nevada,  in  the  midst  of  w^hich  is  situated  the 
Black  Rock  mining  district,  the  I'uoblo^ind  Vicksbiu-g  districts,  the  only  ones 
in  this  jiart  of  the  State,  lying  further  north  and  very  near  the  Oregon  line. 
Humboldt  county  contained,  August,  1861,  about  400  inhabitants.  The  present 
population  is  estimated  at  between  1,200  and  1,300,  not  so  many  by  one-half  as 
it  was  four  years  ago,  a  falling  off  due  to  the  great  disadvantanges  under  which 
the  mines  hero  have  to  be  o|)ened  rather  than  to  the  poverty  of  the  mines  them- 
selves. Among  these  disadvantages  the  lack  of  timber,  and  in  some  localities 
of  even  wood  for  fuel,  and  the  cost  of  freights  stand  foremost.  When  the  Pacific 
railroad,  striking  through  the  very  heart  of  the  Humboldt  mining  region,  shall 
have  been  completed,  thereby  obviating  in  some  measure  these  difficulties,  this 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  331 

section  tniist  receive  an  iinpuls(>  that  will  awaken  the  energies  of  the  inhabitants 
and  restore  the  confidence  once  felt  in  the  district.  It  is  estimated  that  there 
are  200,000  acres  of  aral)le  laud  in  the  county,  much  (»f  which  is  now  a  natural 
meadow,  beiui;^  covered  with  a  coarse  species  of  grass,  and  all  of  which  could, 
with  irrigation,  be  made  to  produce  crops  of  gi^ain  or  tin;  cultivated  grasses. 
Without  artiliciaJ  moisture  but  little  of  the  soil  is  capable  of  maturing  either 
grain  or  vegetables,  though  with  its  aid  both  can  be  grown.  There  is  nearly 
everywhere  pa.sturage  enough  both  winter  and  summer  for  a  small  amoulit  of 
stock,  or  for  a  large  amount  if  the  latter  be  sufliciently  scattered.  The  stock  is 
estimated  at  500  head  of  horses  and  nudes,  400  head  of  neat  cattle,  200  sheop, 
and  300  swine.  There  are  15,000  acres  of  land  enclosed^  4,000  under  cultiva- 
tion; 3,000  tons  of  hay  are  cut,  and  1,000  tons  of  grain,  raised  annually,  the 
most  of  them  in  Humboldt  and  Paradise  valleys,  the  latter  embracing  between 
20,000  and  30,000  acres  of  ■  well-watered  and  fertile  farming  land.  Here  a 
number  of  settlers  have  located  during  the  past  three  years,  nearly  all  of  whom 
are  doing  a  thrifty  business  raising  grain  and  vegetables,  or  in  cutting  hay  for 
the  Humboldt  and  Owyhee  markets,  or  for  supplying  the  military  post  estab- 
lished in"  the  valley.  The  yield  of  the  cereals  here  is  prolific,  both  grain  and 
vegetables  being  grown  without  much  trouble.  Eyen  the  wild  rye  on  being  cul- 
tivate<l  produces  a  large  and  plump  berry.  The  barley  sown  on  sod  freshly 
turned  up  yielded  last  year  at  the  rate  of  23.  bushels  to  one,  and  of  1,100  acres 
of  barley,  ancl  1,300  of  wheat  grown  in  the  valley  the  present  year,  the  yield 
has  been  equally  good.  Barley  delivered  on  the  farms  sells  at  the  rate  of  about 
$2  50  per  bushel,  and  wheat  at  about  the  same,  though  the  price  of  the  latter 
■will  now  probably  depreciate,  as  a  flour  mill  is  about  being  erected  in  the  valley. 
The  quantity  of  grain  raised  here  in  1866  amounted  to  33,000  bushels,  the  crop 
the  present  season  being  still  larger.  So  green  does  the  grass  remain,  and  so 
genial  is  the  climate  in  this  valley,  that  good  hay  can  be  made  iu  the  month  of 
December.  The  principal  tow'ns  in  the  county  are  Unionville,  the  county  seat, 
with  a  population  of  400,  Star  city,  300,  and  Humboldt  city,  100;  besides  wdiicli 
there  are  several  mining  liandets  numbering  from  40  to  60  inhabitants.  Some 
of  these  towns  contain  a  number  of  line  buildings,  which  being  erected  at  a 
time  when  labor  and  material  were  very  expensive,  have  cost  large  sums.  The 
most  noteworthy  improvement  in  the  county  is  the  Humboldt  canal,  designed  to 
take  water  from  the  river  and  introduce  it  into  or  near  the  mines,  and  now  in 
course  of  construction.  This  work  is  more  than  half  finished,  and  will,  when 
completed,  be  SO  miles  long,  15  feet  wide,  and  3  feet  deep,  canying  Avater 
sufficient  to  drive  at  least  600  stamps.  It  will  cost,  construction  of  dam  included, 
a  little  over  .$1,000  per  mile.  The  route  of  this  canal  lies  near  many  of  the 
best  mines  in  the  county,  and  must,  when  these  come  to  be  developed,  prove  a 
very  valuable  and  important  propjerty  in  a  country  having  so  little  fuel  for  gen- 
erating steam  })ower.  Already  .this  work  has  been  rendered  to  some  extent 
available  for  the  propulsion  of  machinery.  There  are  12  qnartz  mills  in  the 
county,  two  of  them  provided  with  furnaces  for  smeltiag  the  ores,  the  whole 
number  caiTving  112  stamps  and  costing  $400,000.  Of  those  mills,  nine  are 
propelled  by  steam  and  three  by  water.  The  ])ower  for  driving  one  of  these 
mills  recently  constructed  is  ol>t?iined  by  damming  np  the  outlet  of  Humboldt 
lake,  by  which  means  a  sulKcient  force  is  generatetl  for  carrying  a  large  number 
of  stam))s,  and  which  it,  is  intended  shall  be  api)lied  to  that  jjurposo  should  the 
ores  of  the  Desert  district,  «)n  which  the  ])rcseiit  mill  is  to  be  run,  ])ruve  remu- 
nerating. Many  of  the  ores  iu  this  region  are  so  iuixe<l  with  lead,  antimon}^,  copper, 
and  otlicr  refractory  agents  as  to  require  smelting,  for  whicli  purpose  several 
establishments  have  already  been  erected  and  are  in  operation.  Two  of  these, 
the  one  situated  at  Etna,  and  t.he  other  at  Orcana,  on  the  Humboldt  river,  have, 
after  many  difficulties,  succeeded  to  such  an  extent  that  the  business  is  now  remu- 
nerative, the  shipments  of  bullion  from  them  amounting  to  §3,000  per  week. 


".hUaf 


332 


RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 


The  crude  metal  cnrncd  out  Ly  smelting  consists  of  lead,  silver,  and  antimony, 
wLicli  is  then  passed  through  calcining  and  refining  furnaces,  whereby  the  silver 
is  liberated  from  the  base  metals,  coming  out  from  /j,%5_  to  ^^jf^^  fine.  Much  of 
the  crude  metal  is  sent  away,  as  it  will  not  pay  for  refining  here  where  the 
expenses  are  so  high.  The  cost  of  smelting  and  refining  ore  at  these  establish- 
ments is  $50  per  ton,  about  double  the  cost  of  reduction  here  by  ordinary  mill 
process.  The  price  of  wood  delivered  at  the  mills  varies  from  $6  to  Si4  per 
cord,  depending  on  localities.  The  extraction  of  the  ores  costs  about  $10  per 
ton;  hauling  to  mill  from  $3  to  $8,  according  to  distance.  Some  of  the  lodes 
in  this  region  cany  in  the  outcrop  chiefly  gold,  while  others  contain  only  silver 
or  both  of  these  metals  mixed.  Many  of  the  smaller  ledges  are  rich  in  free  gold, 
and  are  worked  as  gold  mines.  This  is  especially  the  case  in  the  Oro  Fino. 
SieiTa,  and  other  districts  in  the  mountains,  designated  as  the  Foist  Range  east. 
While  some  of  the  lodes  in  this  county  are  large,  well  walled  and  symetrical, 
caiTying  all  the  features  of  regular  fissure  veins,  others  are  narrow  and  broken 
and  marked  by  irregular  distributions  of  ore.  'An  immense  amount  of  work  has 
been  done  in  this  part  of  the  country,  but  there  has  been  too  little  concentration 
of  labor  and  much  of  it  has  been  lost.  Some  of  the  tunnels  have  a  length  vary- 
ing from  500  to  2,000  feet,  .showing  that  a  great  deal  of  persistent  work  has 
been  done.  Yet  only  in  a  few  cases  have  these  excavations  reached  the  lodes 
for  which  they  were  driven,  so  ihsit  not  much  practical  benefit  has  been  reaped 
from  their  construction.  Besides  these  tunnels  a  great  number  of  shafts  have 
been  sunk,  being  the  more  common  method  of  prospecting  claims  here.  These 
shafts  vary  in  depth  from  a  few  feet  to  several  hundred,  some  of  them  being 
carried  down  on  and  following  the  inclination  of  the  vein.  Most  of  the  com- 
panies have  in  this  manner  been  able  to  bring  small  lots  of  pay  ore  to  the  sur- 
face, while  others,  drifting  upon  thin  lodes,  have  raised  considerable  quantities: 
The  ore  is  usually  of  high  grade,  yielding  by  mill  process  from  $40  to  $200  per 
ton,  and  in  some  cases  much  more.  That  taken  from  the  Sheba  mine  several 
years  since,  yielded  from  $200  to  $500  per  ton,  the  average  being  $140.  With 
so  large  a  number  of  veins,  some  of  them  carrying  a  good  body  of  high  grade 
ores  and  displaying  evidence  of  pennanency,  this  can  hardly  fail  to  become  in 
the  course  of  a  few  years  a  productive  mining  district.  Prior  to  1867  the  annual 
shipments  of  bullion  from  Humboldt  scarcely  exceeded  $200,000,  whereas  the 
amount  will  be  nearly  double  that  sum  for  the  present  year,  with  the  prospect 
of  a  larger  increase  hereafter.  Much  prospecting  as  well  as  exploratory  labor  is 
now  being  done  in  different  parts  of  the  county,  and  generally  with  encouraging 
results.  Capital  is  being  invested  more  freely  than  for  several  years  past,  a 
number  of  new  mills  are  being  put  up  and  others  projected,  w'hile  population 
that  had  for  some  time  been  falling  off  is  again  on  the  increase.  In  the  north- 
western part  of  the  county  adjacent  to  a  fertile  and  well-watered  valley,  is  situ- 
ated the  Pueblo  district,  with  the  Vicksburg  district  a  short  distance  further 
south.  There  are  good  mines  here,  but  the  remoteness  of  the  locality,  and  the 
hostile  disposition  of  the  Indians  there  have  retarded  their  development  as  well 
as  prevented  the  settlement  of  the  country.  The  only  mill  ever  erected  in  Pue- 
blo was  burnt  by  the  savages,  who  at  the  same  time  'murdered  two  of  the  early 
settlers  of  the  tlistrict  and  wounded  others.  With  the  adoption  of  more  vigorous 
measures  for  the  prevention  of  these  outrages  there  is  a  probability  that  opera- 
tions, for  several  years  nearly  suspended,\vill  be  resumed  at  both  Vicksbm-g 
and  Pueblo.  This  valley,  in  its  general  features,  resembles  Sui-prise  valley, 
already  described,  only  that  it  is  more  extensive,  though  not  so  much  settled. 
The  Black  Rock  mines  are  situated  in  the  western  part  of  the  county,  some  40 
miles  south  of  the  Vicksburg  district.  The  region  about  there  is  sterile  in  the 
extreme,  being  almost  without  any  arable  or  meadow  land,  and  very  deficient  in 
wood,  grass,  and  water.  But  that  the  mines  at  this  place  ai-e  extensive  and  val- 
uable is  now  beyond  dispute,  though  for  a  long  time  the  peculiar-  appearance  of 


'^'^vjMk^ 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  333 

tlie  ore,  in  the  absence  of  developments  and  working  tcst.^^,  rendered  this  a  matter 
of  considerable  doubt.  Recent  crnsliings  of  ore,  claimed  to  represent  average 
masses  in  these  niine^,  have  tended  to  dispel  di  mitts  of  their  richness,  if  indeed 
they  may  not  bo  said  to  have  established  for  them  a  high  value.  The  deposits, 
here  lie  in  huge  masses  rather  than  arranged  in  ore  channels  walled  in  the  ordi- 
nary way.  and  should  they  be  found  persistent  in  depth,  must  prove  valuable, 
notwithstanding  the  remoteness  of  their  locality  and  their  unfavorable  sur- 
roundinjTS. 


SECTION   nil. 

CHURCHILL    COUNTY. 

This  county  took  its  name  from  Fort  Ciiurchill,  the  first  military  post  ever 
established  in  this  region,  so  called  after  an  officer  in  the  United  States  army. 
The  entire  western  half,  except  near  the  waters  of  the  Carson,  is  a  sandy  sage 
ban-on,  the  most  of  it  an  absolute  desert,  over  which  are  scattered  low  ranges  of 
black  basaltic  hills.  x\cross  the  central  and  eastern  portions  run  in  a  north  and 
swith  direction  three  high  ranges'of  mountains,  the  Silver  Hill  the  most  westerly, 
Clan  Alpine  the  centre,  and  the  See-da-yah  or  Look-out  chain  on  the  east,  each 
separated  from  the  other  by  a  broad  and  generally  ban-en  valley.  The  county 
oontiiins  in  proportion  to  its  size  but  little  good  land,  the  amount  fit  for  hay- 
cutting  or  grain-raising  not  being  over  50,000  acies  in  an  area  of  nearly  6,000 
square  miles.  This  good  land  is  nearly  all  found  along  the  Carson  river,  or 
Miout  the  lake,  slough  and  sink  formed  by  its  waters,  the  greater  portion  con- 
sisting of  natural  meadows,  kept  for  cutting  hay.  On  the  mountains  there  is  a 
scanty  growth  of  bunch  grass;  elsew-here  almost  none  at  all.  The  mountains  also 
contain  all  the  wood  there  is  in  the  county,  and  nearly  all  the  water  except 
that  supplied  by  Carson  river.  About  2,500  tons  of  hay  are  cut,  and  300  tons 
of  grain,  with  as  many  vegetables,  are  raised  annually.  There  are  400  horses 
and  mules  in  the  county,  and  600  cattle,  one-half  of  them  work  oxen.  The 
population  ninnbers  about  400,  of  whom  150  are  residents  of  La  Plata,  the  county 
seat.  Besides  its  auriferous  veins,  Churchill  contains  a  variety  of  minerals  and 
metals,  its  western  portion,  owing  to  its  great  depression,  being  a  vast  receptacle 
of  the  various  salts  distilled  from  the  drainage  of  more  than  half  the  State.  The 
sink  of  the  Carson  may  be  considered  the  grand  central  basin  of  all  northern  and 
western  Nevada;  hence,  about  it  we  find  deposited  those  alkaline,  saline,  and 
sulphurous  substances  with  which  most  of  the  waters  of  this  State  are  impreg- 
nated. From  the  waters  of  two  small  lakes  situated  in  the  great  desert  plain 
west  of  Carson  sink,  the  carbonate  of  soda  is  so  abundantly  deposited  that  tons 
of  the  article  could  easily  be  collected  quite  pure.  One  of  these,  on  drying  up, 
which  it  does  every  summer,  leaves  a  thick  incrustation  of  this  salt  behind. 
Sulphur  and  the  chloride  of  soda  are  also  plentifnl ;  and  two  of  the  principal  salt 
beds  in  the  State  are  in  the  western  part  of  this  county.  Hot  springs  oc<;ur 
at  several  jjlaces  with  many  tumuli  and  other  signs  of  extinct  thennals.  In  the 
article  on  sinks  and  slougJts  will  be  found  some  remarks  on  those  hydrographical 
features  of  Churchill  county.  Some  10  or  12  mining  districts  have  at  different 
periods  been  laid  out  within  the  bounds  of  this  county.  Silver  Hill,  situated  in 
the  mountains  of  the  same  name,  and  organized  in  1860,  contains  some  large 
lodes  heavily  charged  with  auriferous  and  argentiferous  galena,  a  nunil)erof  whieh 
have  been  prospected.  Considerable  work  has  been  done  in  the  district.  Its 
inconvenient  situation,  however,  joined  with  a  scarcity  of  water,  as  well  as  a 
prospective  scarcity  of  wood,  has  ser\-cd  to  defeat  all  efibrts  for  getting  in  mills 
or  otherwise  bringing  the  ledges  to  a  productive  state.     Very  little  work  has  been 


334  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AKD    TERRITORIES 

done  here  for  the  past  three  years,  and  latterly  there  have  been  but  few  inhabi- 
tants in  the  district.  Desert  district  is  located  in  the  northwestern  comer  of  the 
county  on  what  is  known  as  the  Forty-Mile  desert.  It  is  an  arid  dreary  timber- 
less  plain,  being  without  even  a  sufficiency  of  water  for  culinary  uses.  The 
lodes  are  small  and  blind,  but  rich  in  free  gold,  which  occurs  in  a  gangiie,  com- 
posed principally  of  red  oxide  of  iron,  easily  reduced  ;  and  if  there  were  only  the 
ordinary  facilities  for  working  these  mines  they  might  prove  very  remunerative. 
A  five-stamp  mill  was  built  near  them  four  years  ago,  and  though  operated  for 
a  time  with  success  has  since  remained  idle,  the  dilticulty  of  getting  wood  and 
water  supplies  proving  too  great.  A  mill  has  been  built  lately  at  the  outlet  of 
Humboldt  for  working  these  ores,  and  though  distant  some  14  miles  from  the 
mines,  the  enterprise  may  turn  out  profitable,  and  as  there  is  a  considerable 
amount  of  propulsive  power  at  that  point,  these  lodes  may  yet  be  worked  exten- 
sively. In  the  Mountain  Wall  district,  situate  on  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Silver 
Hill  range,  a  great  many  veins  were  located  some  five  years  ago.  The  surface 
indications  being  good,  considerable  work  was  afterwards  done  upon  them.  But 
the  lodes  were  found  to  be  faulty  and  uncertain,  which  led  to  the  abandonment  of 
most  of  them.  Experts  are  of  opinion  that  deeper  exploration  would  reach  perma- 
nent bodies  of  pay  ore  in  these  mines.  Three  years  ago  the  Silver  Wave  Company 
completed  at  La  Plata  a  20-stamp  mill,  at  a  cost  of  8125,000.  They  had,  how- 
ever, failed  to  prove  their  mine  in  advance,  and  it  having  failed  to  fmiiish  snfiicient 
pay  ore,  the  mill  after  running  for  a  short  time  was  obliged  to  stop,  and  has  been 
idle  ever  since.  About  the  same  time  another  company,  supplied  as  in  the  case 
above,  with  eastern  funds,  erected  at  Averill,  a  few  miles  from  La  Plata,  a  20- 
stamp  mill,  at  a  cost  of  .$150,000,  and  although  this  has  not  as  yet  accomplished 
much  in  the  way  of  taking  out  bullion,  they  are  developing  their  mines  with  a 
prospect  of  obtaining  snfiicient  pay  ore  to  start  the  mill  and  keep  it  running. 
It  is  b}''  no  means  certain  that  similar  persistence  on  the  part  of  the  Silver  Wave 
Company  in  opening  their  ledge  would  not  be  attended  with  good  results.  With 
the  exception  of  the  work  doing  by  the  Averill  Companj-  there  are  but  few 
mining  operations  now  in  progress  in  the  district.  The  history  of  operations  in 
the  Mountain  Well  district  is  so  like  that  of  those  in  Clan  Alpine,  30  miles  farther 
east,  that  it  is  unnecessary  to  go  into  details  of  the  latter,  where  also,  after  but 
a  superficial  examination  of  the  mines,  a  10-stamp  mill  was  two  years  ago  put 
up  to  run  a  few  days,  and  then  remain  idle.  Yet  there  are  unquestionably  good 
mines  in  this  district,  besides  plenty,  of  wood  and  water  to  insure  a  cheap 
reduction  of  the  ores.  Of  the  several  other  districts  in  this  county  nothing  is 
requii-ed  to  be  said  other  than  that  many  of  them  show  encouraging  signs  of  pay 
ore,  though  but  little  work  has  been  done,  and  most  of  them  ai'e  but  poorly  sup- 
plied with  wood  and  w\'iter. 


SECTION    IIY. 

ESMERALDA    COUNTY. 

This  county,  named  after  the  principal  mining  district  in  it,  occupies  the  south- 
westem  portion  of  the  State.  In  its  general  features  the  country  does  not  differ 
materially  from  most  of  that  already  described,  except  that  the  mountains  con- 
tfiin  a  greater  extent  of  jjiuou  forests  tluin  those  of  Humboldt,  Eoop,  or  Churchill, 
The  proportion  of  agricultural  land,  however,  is  scarcely  greater  than  in  those 
counties,  if  so  great  as  in  Humboldt.  The  mineral  productions  of  Esmeralda 
are  varied  and  abundant,  the  veins  of  gold,  silver  and  copper  being  numerous, 
often  large,  and  scattered  t)ver  a  vast  region.  The  number  of  mining  districts 
laid  out  in  the  county,  first  and  last,  is  so  large  that  it  would  require  consider- 


^YEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  335 

altlo  spaoo  to  vopcvit  their  iiaincs.  T1h>  liist  disoovcTy  of  silvci*  lodes  was  made 
near  Aurora,  in  tlio  sHiiimer  of  18G0;  iimnediatcly  after  which  a  hirge  population 
was  drawn  to  that  vicinity,  and  for  several  years  miuiuir operations  were  earned 
on  with  activity.  Mills  were  erected,  and  a  town  built  up  which  at  one  time 
contained  3,000  inhabitants.  U'lie  prices  of  real  estate  advanced  to  extravagant 
figures,  and  mining  properties  were  bought  and  sold  at  rates  out  of  all  propor- 
tion to  their  real  value.  In  the  mean  time  the  titles  to  many  <jf  the  leading 
mining  claims  became  involved  in  litigation,  whereby  work  was  for  the  time 
being  suspended,  and  capitalists  deterred  from  further  investments.  The  mills, 
left  without  sutHcient  supplies  of  ore,  ceased,  first  to  pay  dividends,  then 
expenses,  and  finally  closed  up  altogether.  Sufteriug  under  these  conjoint  disas- 
ters, business  fell  off,  the  population  left,  stocks  depreciated,  and  the  Esmeralda 
mines  were  practically  abandoned  just  at  a  time  when,  by  proper  caution  and 
good  management,  they  might  have  l)een  rendered  permanently  remunerative. 
'J'his  occurred  nearly  four  years  ago,  and  althougli  matters  have  been  slightly 
improving  about  Aurora,  the  great  mining  centre  of  the  county,  for  a  year  or 
more  past,  they  are  not  yet  restored  to  their  former  prosperous  condition.  The 
population  of  the  cotmty,  which  in  the  summer  of  1861  numbered  about  3,000 
souls,  had  two  years  after  increased  to  more  than  4,000.  At  present  it  docs  not 
exceed  2,500.  The  principal  part  of  the  farming  and  hay  lands  are  situated  on 
the  forks  of  Walker  river.  The  following  figures  indicate  something  of  the 
agricultimil  resources  and  products  of  this  county :  500  horses  and  mules,  1,000 
Lead  of  neat  cattle,  300  sheep,  400  swine,  3,000  tons  of  hay  cut,  and  600  tons 
grain,  besides  a  large  quantity  of  vegetables  raised,  annually.  There  are  15,000 
acres  of  land  under  fence,  of  which  5,000  are  cultivated.  The  first  quartz  mill 
was  erected  at  Aurora  in  1861,  since  which  time  15  others  have  been  built  in  the 
county — 10  at  that  place,  one  in  tlie  Columbus  district,  two  at  Silver  Peak,  one 
at  Pine  Creek,  and  one  at  lied  Mountain.  Besides  these  there  are  several  in  the 
Bodie  and  other,  districts  adjacent,  generally  spoken  of  as  being  in  Esmeralda, 
though  really  in  Calitbrnia.  These  mills  carry  200  stamps,  all  told,  and  will 
liave  cost,  when  that  now  in  process  of  building  at  Silver  Creek  is  completed, 
about  8600,000.  The  most  of  those  at  Aurora  having  been  put  up  in  1862-63, 
when  labor  and  material  were  high,  cost  considerably  more  than  similar  estab- 
lishments would  at  present.  After  the  building  of  the  first  mill  at  that  place 
the  shipments  of  bullion  from  the  county  steadily  increased  for  several  years, 
until  they  reached  nearly  81,000,000  for  1864."^  From  this  time  tliey  fell  off 
heavily  for  two  years,  but  are  now  again  on  the  increase,  and  there  is  reason  to 
believe  they  will  be  steadily  augmented  for  years  to  come.  In  addition  to  the 
troubles  already  mentioned,  the  millmen  at  Aurora  experienced  the  finther  diffi- 
culty of  having  in  some  cases  a  rather  refractory  class  of  ores  to  deal  with ;  many 
of  the  ledges,  also,  which  had  prospected  fairly  in  the  croppings,  failed  to  yield 
any  large  bodies  of  ore  at  greater  depths.  In  some  cases  the  exj)osed  portion  of 
the  ledges  here,  and  even  the  (piartz  boulders,  of  which  there  were  many  lying 
loose  on  the  isurface  of  the  ground,  were  found  to  be  heavily  charged  with  the 
sulphuret  of  silver.  ]\Iuch  free  gold  was  also  foruid  in  several  of  the  veins  and 
occasionally  in  the  earth  adjacent,  all  of  which  leading  tQ  the  belief  that  an 
abundance  of  pay  ore  could  l)e  easily  and  certainly  obtained,  a  number  of  largo 
and  costly  mills  were  erected  in  advance  of  mining  developments,  many  of  them 
to  meet  with  subseipient  embarrassment  and  often  to  remain  idle  for  want  of  ore. 
This  district  also  suffered  severely  from  excc'ssive  speculation  in  mining  stocks 
and  properties,  nnich  of  it  brought  about  through  very  questionable  agencies 
and  modes  of  procediu-e,  the  odium  of  wliich,  extending  beyond  the  guilty  instni- 
ments,  uttached  to  the  mines  themselves,  tlius  discouraging  the  work  of  explora- 
tion and  bringing  them  into  disrepute.  Within  the  past  two  years  parties  con- 
versant with  the  geology  of  the  mineral  veins  in  this  district,  and  well  posted  as 
to  previous  operations,  satisfied  that  the  pi-incipal  cause  of  failure  was  to  bo  found 


336  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

in  the  siipei-ficial  and  insufficient  character  of  the  explorations  before  carried  on, 
have  commenced  a  series  of  deep  prospecting  shafts  on  a  number  of  the  more 
promising  ledges  at  Aurora,  with  a  view  to  prosecuting  them  to  determinate 
results.  In  several  cases  these  operations  have  already  been  crowned  wath  com- 
plete or  partial  success,  in  one,  at  least,  that  of  the  Juniata,  a  vein  well  charged 
with  pay  ore  having  been  developed  at  no  great  depth  beneath  the  surface,  a 
circumstance  that,  besides  encouraging  those  engaged  in  similar  works  to  perse- 
vere, will  be  likely  to  lead  to  the  initiation  of  other  enterprises  directed  to  the 
accomplishment  of  the  same  end.  Stimulated  by  these  results,  business  has 
begun  to  improve  in  Aurora,  and  mining  enterprise  has  everywhere  received  a 
wholesome  impetus  throughout  the  county.  Some  of  these  prospecting  shafts 
are  already  down  several  hundred  feet,  and,  being  supplied  with  efficient  hoisting 
works  and  directed  by  parties  of  experience  and  energy,  are  progressing  favor- 
ably. The  ore  in  this  district  is  a  sulphuret  of  silver,  much  of  it  carrying  a  per- 
centage of  gold,  either  free  or  in  combination  with  other  metals  and  minerals. 
Taken  as  a  mass,  it  is  of  high  grade,  yielding  from  one-third  to  one-half  more 
bullion  than  that  from  the  mines  about  Virginia  City  and  Grold  Hill.  Most  of 
the  ore  raised  at  Aurora  yields  by  mill  process  from  $40  to  S70  per  ton,  -$50 
being  perhaps  a  fair  average  ;  while  the  cost  of  reduction  is,  or  might  be,  less 
than  at  those  places,  wood  being  considerably  cheaper.  The  only  trouble  seems 
to  be  the  insufficiency  of  the  ore  supply,  and  this,  as  above  stated,  may  be  con- 
sidered in  a  fair  way  of  being  overcome.  Wood  costs,  delivered  at  the  mills  in 
Aurora,  about  $6  per  cord — a  little  less  in  most  of  the  outside  districts  in  the 
county — a  price  that  cannot  V>e  materially  advanced  for  some  years  to  come, 
owing  to  the  abundance  of  piiion  in  the  vicinity  of  the  principal  mines.  In  the 
proximity  of  the  latter  to  good  agricultural  districts  a  further  guarantee  is  had 
against  exorbitant  demands  for  grain  and  rbany  other  staples  of  subsistence. 
The  only  townis  in  Esmeralda  county  of  any  size  are  Aurora  and  Pino  Grove, 
the  former,  the  county  seat,  containing  a  population  of  about  1,500,  and  the  latter 
of  about  300.  There  are  two  saw-mills  in  the  county  capable  of  cutting  about 
10,000  feet  of  lumber  per  day,  and  a  large  extent  of  toll-roads,  some  portions 
of  which  have  been  built  at  heavy  expense.  Lying  in  a  northerly  and  easterly 
direction  from  Aurora,  and  distant  from  10  to  30  miles,  are  several  mining  dis- 
tricts, all  of  which,  having  had  their  day  of  popularity,  generally  resting  on 
misapprehension  or  a  hasty  inspection  of  their  claims,  ai'e  now  nearly  depopu- 
lated. Of  these  the  Walker  Iliver,  Lake,  Cornell,  Desert,  East  Esmeralda, 
Masonic,  and  Van  Horn  form  the  most  notable  examples.  In  some  of  these  are 
promising  veins,  and  in  nearly  all  much  work  has  been  done,  yet  generally 
without  such  decisive  results  as  to  secure  capital  for  the  erection  of  mills  or 
to  warrant  continued  operations.  In  the  Wilson  district,  situated  in  the  Tol- 
lock  mountains,  40  miles  north  of  Aurora,  were  discovered  in  the  summer  of 
1866  a  number  of  auriferous  lodes,  several  of  which,  having  since  been  par- 
tially developed,  are  likely  to  prove  valuable.  Here,  within  the  present  year,  a 
considerable  town — Pino  Grove — has  been  built  up,  a  number  of  arrastras  driven 
by  steam  and  a  10-stamp  steam  quartz  mill  have  been  erected,  and  another  mill 
of  larger  size  partially  completed.  The  lodes  are  of  fair  average  size,  some  of 
them  large,  from  10  to  20  feet  thick,  and  as  a  general  thing  show  signs  of  per- 
manency. So  far  as  opened  they  display  regular  walls  and  linings,  with  other 
evidences  of  true  fissure  veins.  'J'ho  exploratory  works  consist  of  shafts  and 
tunnels,  some  of  the  latter  nearly  1,000  feet  long  and  several  of  the  shafts  over 
100  feet  deep.  From  these  excavations  and  from  open  cuts  on  the  hnles  a  quan- 
tity of  ore-bearing  quai'tz  has  been  extracted,  a  portion  of  which  has  been  crushed 
with  good  results,  the  greater  part  being  still  retiiined  awaiting  better  facilities 
for  reduction.  The  gangue  consists  of  an  ochreous  quartz,  much  of  it  easily 
pulverized  from  partial  decomposition.  The  vield  of  the  oi'es  so  far  reduced  has 
run  from  $30  to  $90  per  ton,  worked  by  simple  settling  tub  and  blanket  process. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAIN^.  337 

The  ffoin  is  c:cnorally  diflfiisod  thron£jliout  the  veinstone  and  is  extremely  pure, 
lieiui^  017  tine  and  worth  within  a  fraction  of  $19  per  onnce.  There  is  sutKoiCTit 
water  near  the  mines  for  the  use  of  several  large  steam  mills,  Walker  river, 
eiirht  miles  distant,  to  which  there  is  a  ffood  road  with  a  descending'  grade,  also 
8upj)lying  a  large  propulsive  power.  The  mountains  throughout  the  district  are 
covered  with  forests  of  piuon,  rendering  tlu^  i?"pply  of  fuel  at  cheap  rates  certain 
for  some  ycai-s.  These  mines  are  accessible  over  good  wagon  roads  from  Cali- 
fornia, and  in  the  vicinity  of  a  ])roductive  agricultural  district,  with  fine  timber 
lands  but  40  miles  distant,  conditions  that  must  tend  greatly  to  facilitate  their 
development.  In  the  Washington  district,  20  miles  south  of  Pine  (xrove,  a 
number  of  argentiferous  veins,  carrying  also  copper,  galena,  and  antimony,  were 
discovered  in  the  early  part  of  the  present  year,  some  of  which  have  since  been 
prospected.  A  10-stamp  steam  mill  for  the  reduction  of  the  ores  has  lately  been  put 
up  in  the  district,  where  there  are  now  about  150  men  at  work  on  the  mines.  The 
lodefi  are  of  good  size,  and  carry  ore  which,  from  the  limited  tests  made,  it  is 
thought  will  yield  well  by  mill  process.  The  situation  of  this  district  and  the 
supjdy  of  wood  and  water  are  much  the  same  as  of  the  Wilson  district.  A  go©d 
deal  of  ore  is  now  out  lying  on  the  dumps  awaiting  means  of  reduction.  Bunch 
grass  is  abundant  throughout  all  this  region,  and  as  the  climate  is  mild,  but  litflc 
snow  falling  in  the  winter  except  on  the  higher  mountains,  stock  keep  in  o-ood 
condition  the  year  through  without  fodder.  Ranging  from  30  to  50  miles  in  a 
southeast  direction  from  Aurora,  and  lying  partly  in  California,  are  the  Hor 
Sjjring,  the  Blind  Spring,  and  the  Montgomery  districts,  discovered  in  1864, 
since  which  time  a  considerable  amount  of  ore  has  been  extracted  from  some  of 
the  lodes,  though  but  few  well-planned  or  persistent  eft'v^rts  appear  to  have  been 
made  looking  to  a  systematic  development  of  the  mines.  Some  of  this  ore  has  been 
sent  to  San  Francisco  for  sale  or  reduction;  a  small  quantity  has  been  beneficiated 
at  the  mines,  while  a  large  amount  remains  on  the  dump  piles  undisposed  of.  A 
ditliculty  with  many  of  the  lodes  in  these  districts  is  the  want  of  well-defined 
ore  channels,  the  de]30sits  occm-ring  more  in  the  shape  of  pockets  or  bonanzas 
than  of  regular  strata,  and  hence  deficient  in  continuity  and  ]iersistence  in  depth. 
These  bunches,  however,  are  frequently  large,  and  being  easily  broken  out,  can 
usually  be  mined  with  a  remarkaljle  prosjjcct  of  profit.  Most  of  the  ore  here  ia 
an  argentiferous  galena,  the  large  percentage  of  base  and  refractory  metals  it 
contains,  of  whicli  manganese,  ant^imony,  and  copper  are  the  principal,  render- 
ing smelting  necessary,  not  more  than  30  per  cent,  of  the  fire  assay  l)eing  saved 
l>y  ordinary  modes  of  reduction.  Some,  however,  is  rich  in  silver,  yielding, 
where  thoroughly  treated,  iVom  S300  to  S500  per  ton,  selected  lots  turning  outa 
great  deal  more.  Two  small  mills  and  a  number  of  smelting  furnaces  have 
been  put  up,  whicli,  considering  their  limited  capacity,  have  made  a  fair  turn-out 
of  bullion.  These  districts  are  moderately  well  supplied  with  wood,  grass,  and 
water,  Montgomery,  containing  an  abundance  of  piuon  ;  and  the  opinion  may  be 
expressed  that  witli  the  aid  of  capital  and  skilled  labor  a  thrifty  mining  business 
may  yet  be  established. 

Columbus  district,  situate  about  50  miles  east  of  Aurora,  and  the  same  dis- 
tance southeast  of  Walker  lake,  is  another  of  the  more  noted  mining  centres  of 
Esmeralda  county,  at  least  so  far  as  the  possession  of  numerous  lodes  is  con- 
cerned. The  developments  have  not  been  extensive.  Adjacent  to  this  are 
several  other  districts,  the  most  of  which  have  been  too  little  explored  to  justify 
notice,  though  all  contain  metalliferous  veins  of  either  the  precious  or  useful 
metals  and  often  of  both.  But  little  work,  however,  has  been  performed  in  any 
of  them,  and  they  are  mostly  deficient  in  wood  and  water,  which  latter  is  also 
the  case  in  the  Columbus  district.  Here,  however,  a  number  of  the  veins  have 
been  partially  prospected  and  working  tests  made  of  the  ores,  which  have  gen- 
erally yielded  good  returns.  The  ledges  are  mostly  in  the  hands  of  men  of  small 
means,  while  the  remoteness  of  the  district  has  prevented  it  from  being  visited 
22 


338  RES<!)URCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

by  stran<Tcrs  and  perhaps  from  attracting  the  attention  it  deserves.  Certain  it  is 
the  lodes  are  of  fair  dimensions,  some  of  them  very  strong  and  marked  by  regu- 
lar walls  and  well-stocked  ore-channels.  The  top  ore  consists  largely  of  chlorides 
mixed  with  sulphurets,  often  exhibiting  a  little  free  gold  and  native  silv^er ;  the 
accompanying  metals  are  copper  and  lead.  Various  cmshings  of  small  lots, 
some  of  which  it  is  claimed  were  not  closely  worked,  have  given  proceeds  ranging 
from  $50  to  $200  per  ton,  a  good  result  considering  the  quantity  of  ore  of  this 
class  that  can  easily  be  obtained ;  so  that  the  prospect  is  not  unfavorable.  The 
country  here  is  rugged  and  generally  barren,  consisting  of  high  hills  and  mountains, 
interspersed  with  sandy  plains  and  salt  beds.  The  mountains  are  scaiTed  with 
volcanic  outflows  and  masses  of  basalt,  intenningled  with  trachytic  rock  and  dikes 
of  trap,  indicating  a  period  of  great  upheavals  and  disturbance  of  the  earth's 
crust.  Along  the  flanks  of  the  volcanic  breaks  portions  of  the  original  metamor- 
phic  and  stratified  rocks  are  found  traversed  and  seamed  in  many  cases  by  the 
metallic  bearing  veins  of  gold,  silver,  copper,  lead,  and  iron.  The  elevated  por- 
tions of  this  district  consist  of  a  northeasterly  extension  of  the  White  Mountain 
range,  Avhich  a  short  distance  to  the  southwest  rises  to  a  height  of  10,000  feet,  their 
tops  and  northern  slopes  being  covered  a  good  portion  of  the  year  with  snow. 
A  small  town  containing-some  200  inhabitants  has  been  settled  near  the  principal 
mines,  distant  from  which  abotit  eight  miles  are  forests  of  piuon.  There  is  but 
little  wood  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  A  number  of  extensive  salt  deposits  exist  in 
the  district,  ffom  which  this  article  can  be  obtained  quite  pure  and  at  small  cost. 
One  of  these  salt  beds  is  estimated  to  cover  an  area  of  30  square  miles.  Hay 
and  other  agricultm'al  products  can  be  procured  from  Fish  Lake  valley,  a  fertile 
farming  district  20  miles  eoutheast  of  the  mines,  at  which  place  several  hundred 
tons  of  hay  were  cut,  and  considerable  quantities  of  grain  and  vegetables  were 
raised  the  present  year.  While  springs  and  streams  are  scarce,  water  can  be  found 
in  many  places  by  digging  to  a  moderate  depth,  though  it  is  often  slightly  brackish. 
A  four-stamp  steam  mill  has  recently  been  put  up  in  this  district  and  is  now  ope- 
rating with  satisfactory  results.  Another  and  larger  mill  is  about  being  erected, 
creating  a  probability  that  the  business  of  mining,  long  dormant,  will  soon 
be  prosecuted  with  energy.  The  Silver  Peak  district  lies  about  90  miles  a  little 
south  of  east  from  Auiora,  the  great  salt  bed  of  this  region,  covering  over  40 
square  miles,  bordering  it  on  the  east,  and  the  Red  Mountain  district  on  the  west. 
Tlic  lodes  in  these  districts,  taken  in  connection  with  the  vast  improvements  con- 
torn])latcd  and  in  progress,  a  portion  of  them  completed,  render  this  a  promising 
and  important  mining  locality.  The  metalliferous  lodes  are  numerous,  and,  as 
shown  by  working  tests,  well  charged  with  the  precious  metals.  Those  in  the  Silver 
Peak  district  arc  for  the  most  part  argentiferous,  while  the  lied  jMountain  veins  are 
chiefly  gold-bearing.  All  the  valuable  lodes,  so  far  as  discovered  in  these  two 
districts,  are  now  owned  by  the  Great  Salt  Basin  Mining  and  Milling  Company, 
who  are  proceeding  to  develop  them  with  skill  and  energy.  The  first  discovery 
and  location  of  mineral  lodes  in  this  region  was  made  at  Red  Mountain  in  1863, 
which  having  been  followed  u])  the  next  year  by  the  erection  there  of  a  small 
three-stamp  mill,  the  value  of  the  auriferous  veins  at  that  place  was  soon  estab- 
lished. The  same  3'ear,  (18G4,)  the  Silver  Peak  mines  were  discovered,  and 
here  a  10-stamp  mill  was  built  in  the  fall  of  1865,  which  after  running  for  a 
short  time  with  moderate  success  suspended  for  repairs,  but  never  after  resumed 
operations,  the  owners  having  disposed  of  it  in  common  with  their  mining  proper- 
ties to  a  company  of  eastern  capitalists,  the  same  who  are  now  proceeding  to 
work  the  mines  on  a  liberal  and  extended  scale.  The  present  })roperty  of  this 
company  in  these  districts  consists  of  about  a  hundred  different  lodes,  some  of 
them  of  good  size  and  supposed  value,  a  10-stamp  mill,  intended  to  reduce  ores 
without  roasting,  as  practiced  at  Gold  Hill  and  Vu-ginia,  or  for  testing  them  and 
ascertaining  the  best  methods  for  their  reduction,  a  three-stamp  mill,  operating 
on  the  aiu'iferous  ores  at  Red  Mountain,  and  a  1.000  acre  tract  of  pinon  forests 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  339 

lying  adjacent  thereto  and  embracing'  the  best  lands  of  this  kind  in  the  country, 
together  with  numerous  improvements  in  the  shape  of  shops,  corrals,  stables, 
otlices,  storehouses,  and  buildings  for  workmen.  C)n  the  margin  of  the  Great 
Salt  bed,  adjacent  to  their  principal  mines,  and  a  large  spring  of  fresh  water,  a 
site  has  been  secured  for  a  mill  and  all  attendant  uses.  On  this  sjiot  a  first-class 
mill  is  now  being  erected,  most  of  the  lumber,  machinery,  and  other  material 
being  on  tlie  ground.  This  establishment,  which  it  is  intended  shall  be  complete 
in  all  its  appetintments,  will  start  with  20  stamps  at  lirst,  to  which  others  will 
pri>bably  be  added,  the  intention  being  that  GO  stamps  shall  ho  running  there 
before  next  summer.  Among  the  improvements  projected  by  this  company  is  a 
system  of  railways,  embracing  a  main  trunk  running  to  the  centre  of  their  prin- 
cipal claims,  to  be  extended  to  the  most  distant  in  Red  mountain  and  having 
])ranches  ramifying  throughout  both  districts.  This  railway  will  terminate  at 
their  principal  mill,  and  over  it  all  their  ores  will  be  transported,  dispensing  with 
the  necessity  for  team-hauling  almost  entirely,  and  thereby  effecting  a  groat 
economy  in  cuiTcnt  expenses.  As  justly  remarked  by  Mr.  J.  E.  Clayton,  a  wcll- 
knowTi  engineer,  after  a  careful  examination,  the  property  of  this  company  con- 
stitutes a  favorable  combination  of  available  resources  and  local  facilities.  With 
their  plans  carried  out  they  will  probably  be  able  to  mine  and  reduce  their  ores 
at  a  })rofit.  In  the  quantity  of  average  grade  ores  and  easy  transportation  to 
their  mills — the  prime  agents  of  cheap  reduction,  water,  salt,  and  fuel  close  at 
hand,  and  a  good  agricultural  district,  Fish  Lake  valley,  not  far  distant — are 
supplied  some  of  the  necessary  requisites  of  a  promising  mining  enterprise. 
Experience  thus  far  had  encourages  the  hope  that  these  investments  will  prove 
remunerative. 


SECTIONIV. 

LINCOLN    C  OUNT  Y. 

This  county,  named  after  the  late  President  Lincoln,  was  erected  from  Nye 
county  by  act  of  the  State  legislature  at  its  last  session.  Its  boinidaries  are  as 
follows  :  beginning  at  the  Red  Bluff  springs,  about  15  miles  east  of  the  Reville 
district,  and  running  thence  east  to  the  State  line,  which  it  follows  to  the  south 
boundary  of  the  line  separating  it  from  Arizona,  ah)ng  which  it  runs  west  until 
it  reaches  a  point  due  south  of  Red  Bluff,  and  thence  north  to  the  latter  place. 
It  occupies  the  extreme  southeastern  corner  of  the  State,  and  does  not  differ 
materially  in  its  physical  features  and  natural  productions  from  the  adjacent  por- 
tions of  Nye  county,  elsewhere  described.  The  country  is  corrugated,  like  that 
farther  north  and  west,  by  alternating  ranges  of  mountains  and  valleys,  thefonner 
lofty  and  covered  with  a  sparse  growth  of  bunch  grass,  with  numerous  small 
streams  of  water  and  patches  of  pifion  and  occasionally  larger  timber,  while  the 
latter  contains  a  number  of  fertile  spots  on  which  liay  can  be  cut  from  the 
native  grasses  and  good  crops  of  grain  raised  with  the  aid  of  irrigation.  The 
county  seat  has  for  the  present  been  fixed  at  Ilico,  the  principal  settlement. 
The  county  is  now  fully  organized,  having  a  full  set  of  officials  and  consti- 
tuting the  ninth  judicial  district  of  the  State.  The  first  discovery  of  silver- 
bearing  lodes  in  this  region  was  made  about  three  years  ago,  since  which  time 
a  population  of  several  hundred  has  been  gathered  there,  though  as  yet  no 
gi-eat  amoiuit  of  work  has  been  done.  Many  of  the  mountain  ranges  are  found 
to  contain  metalliferous  veins  of  greater  or  less  magnitude  and  value,  but  the 
most  valuable  so  far  as  discovered,  and  the  only  ones  yet  at  all  developed,  are 
situate  in  the  Pahi'anagat  district,  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  county,  in  a  high 


340  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

range  known  as  Quartz  mountain,  its  altitude  being  about  11,000  feet.*  The 
geographical  position  of  this  district  is  nearly  in  37°  37'  north  latitude,  and 
112°  west  longitude.  The  principal  mineral  deposits  are  found  in  a  belt  about 
five  miles  long  and  two  wide,  stretching  across  the  foot-hills  and  spurs  of  the 
mountain.  This  belt  contains  several  distinct  systems  of  lodes,  all  bearing 
the  features  of  true  fissure  veins,  having  smooth  and,  in  places,  striated  walls 
with  clay  linings.  They  are  of  medium  size,  many  of  them  cropping  boldly 
and  traceable  for  a  good  distance.  The  country  rock  is  principally  a  meta- 
moi-phic  limestone,  the  stratification  greatly  disturbed.  The  ores  on  the  sur- 
face are  associated  with  copper  and  ai'gentiferous  galena,  and  show  by  assay 
a  percentage  of  silver  varying  from  $50  to  $2,500  per  ton.  The  vein  stone  is 
quartz  and  calspar,  carrying  iron,  zinc,  and  manganese,  rendering  reduction 
somewhat  troublesome,  and  necessitating  roasting  as  a  general  thing,  or  a  resort 
to  smelting  where  the  sulphuret  of  lead  i^rcvails.  After  roasting  the  ores  are 
tractable,  rendering  amalgamation  easy  and  giving  bullion  from  800  to  900  fine, 
there  being  but  little  gold  present.  Some  of  the  copper  ore  here  assays  as  high 
as  50  per  cent,  of  metal,  making  it  probable  that  it  will  yet  be  of  economic 
value  when  better  facilities  for  its  transportation  elsewhere  are  extended  to  this 
region.  Tiie  veins  are  for  the  most  part  well  situated  for  extraction  of  their 
contents,  with  available  ores  accessible  from  the  start.  The  mountains  adjacent 
to  these  mines  are  tolerably  well  stocked  with  piuon  and  juniper,  but  water  is 
not  abundant,  in  consequence  of  which  all  reduction  works  will  probably,  for 
the  present  at  least,  be  located  in  Pahranagat  valley,  12  miles  east  of  the  mines, 
Avhere  the  mountain  benches  afibrd  good  mill  sites,  with  plenty  of  water  issuing 
from  several  springs.  Thirty  miles  east  of  Pahranagat  are  found  groves  of 
timber  suitable  for  making  a  fair  article  of  lumber.  Many  of  the  ranges  further 
west  also  contain  similar  trees,  a  species  of  white  pine,  with  some  fir. 

The  climate  of  this  region  is  milder  than  its  geographical  position  and  eleva- 
tion— over  7,000  feet — would  indicate,  the  atmosphere  being  tempered  by  the 
warm  cuiTent  of  air  fronr  the  Gulf  of  California,  flowing  up  the  valley  of  the 
Colorado.  Pahranagat  valley,  which  is  35  miles  long  north  and  south,  and  10  wide, 
contains  about  20,000  acres  of  natural  meadow  land,  or  of  soil  that  can  bo  rendered 
arable  by  irrigation.  Most  of  this  will  grow  crops  of  grain  and  vegetables,  that 
cultivated  there  the  present  year  having  yielded  largely.  Until  the  population 
becomes  numerous,  enough  of  hay,  grain,  and  vegteables  can  be  grown  to  meet 
local  demands;  afterwards  supplies  can  be  drawn  from  the  ^Mormon  settlements 
not  far  distant  to  the  southeast,  and  from  which  grain  is  now  brought  and  sold 
in  the  valley,  at  six  cents  per  pt)und;  flour  at  10  cents,  and  beef  at  15  cents. 
Hico  is  but  135  miles  from  Callville,  at  the  so-called  head  of  navigation  on  the 
Colorado  river;  that  is,  as  the  wagon  road  now  runs,  which  can  probably  be 
reduced  to  100  miles,  rendering  it  possibe  that  goods  and  machinery  may  yet  reach 
this  region  through  that  channel.  There  is  now  one  five-stamp  mill  completed, 
with  two  others  of  larger  capacity  underway,  in  this  district.  The  first  not 
having  facilities  for  roasting  the  ores,  failed  in  the  earlier  efforts.  Furnaces 
having  been  built,  with  which  also  the  new  mills  are  to  be  supplied,  no  further 
trouble  in  saving  the  metal  is  apprehended,  and  there  is  now  a  fail"  prospect  that 
the  more  extended  operations  about  to  be  initir.ted  will  prove  remunerative  to 
the  pioneers  of  this  distant  region. 

*Seo  section  on  eastern  Nevada,  Pahranagat  district. 


WEST    OF   THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS  341 

SECTION    XVI. 

THE    COMSTOCK    LODE. 

TliP  inininjj  interest  in  Storey  county  centres  almost  exclusively  in  the  Com- 
Ptoek  lode.  Not  tl>at  it  is  the  only  silvcr-bearino-  lode  in  the  district,  but 
the  others  which  are  worked  yield  so  small  a  proportion  of  the  bullion  produced 
as  almost  to  be  «>vershadowed  by  their  jijreat  neighbor.  The  Comstock  lode 
may  be  called  the ''mother  vein"  of  the  district,  but  both  to  the  east  and  the 
west  of  it  lie  veins  which  ma}^  become  at  no  distant  day  valuable  property.  Of 
the.«ie  the  New  Brunswick  lode,  on  which  are  located  the  St.  John,  Occidental, 
and  other  mines,  is  worthy  of  most  attention,  not  only  from  its  steady  yield  of 
bullion,  but  on  account  of  its  peculiar  veinstone.  The  usual  gangue  in  the 
Comstock  lode  is  quartz ;  in  the  New  Brunswick  it  is  almost  entirely  carbonate 
of  lime,  an  analysis  of  the  rock  showing  the  following  composition : 

Gold 0016  1-5  Qii 

Silver 0250  10  98 

Peroxide  of  iron 1.  6370 

Peroxide  of  manganese .  2500 

Alumina .  7750 

Carbonate  of  limo 83.7240 

Sulphur 0050 

Chlorine Traces. 

Silica 13.2.500 

Loss 3324 

100.  0000  16  00 


This  analysis  shows  less  than  the  usual  amount  of  the  precious  metal,  the  mine 
at  present  yielding  about  30  tons  of  oi'e  daily,  of  an  average  value  of  about  $25. 

In  the  southern  part  of  Gold  Hill  are  many  small  veins  or  deposits  of  decom- 
posed quartz  and  lime,  yielding  gold  worth  about  310  an  ounce;  these  veins  are 
worked  chiefly  l)y  private  individuals  on  a  small  scale,  and  furnish  employment 
for  several  arrastras  in  Gold  canon. 

But,  as  before  stated,  the  mining  interest  centres  chiefly  in  the  Comstock  lode. 

In  the  preliminar\-  report  a  large  amount  of  information  was  furnished  rela- 
tive to  the  general  features  of  this  district  and  its  mining  resources.  To  avoid 
repetition  the  remarks  in  the  present  report  will  be  confined  mainly  to  the  condi- 
tion of  the  lode  at  this  time.  In  order  to  preserve  continuity,  however,  it  will  bo 
nccessaiy  to  go  over  some  of  the  ground  already  traversed.  For  concise  descrip- 
tion the  subject  is  divided  into  separate  headings. 

Character  of  the  Comstock  Lode. — The  Comstock  lode  runs  along  the 
eastern  slope  of  the  Washoe  mountains,  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Davidson,  its  loftiest 
summit.  Its  outcrop  is  not  by  any  means  continuous,  consisting  of  parallel  belts 
of  quartz,  extending  from  east  to  west,  in  some  places  nearly  1,000  feet,  which 
show  themselves  chiefly  on  the  tops  of  the  spurs,  running  down  from  the  main 
ridge.  The  western  of  these  quartz  seams,  being  of  a  hard  crystalline  texture, 
foiTu  the  most  prominent  outcrops,  but  experience  has  shown  them  to  be  of  less 
value  than  the  eastern  bodies,  which  from  their  different  composition  have  been 
more  easily  disintegrated,  and  are  often  covered  up  .by  the  debris  from  the  higher 
and  steeper  portion  of  the  mountain. 

Length  of  Lodu. — The  vein  has  been  more  or  less  thoroughly  explored, 
(see  table  of  mines  in  jjreliminary  report,  i)ages  72  and  7.3,)  and  its  continuity 
established  by  underground  workings  for  a  length  of  about  three  and  a  half 
miles,  though  the  productive  portion  forms  but  a  small  proportion  of  the  whole, 
as  ban-en  spots  of  gi-eat  extent  intervene  between  the  bonanzas  or  ore  bodies. 

Strike  of  Lode. — Its  "  strike  "  or  course,  as  shown  by  the  exposure  of  the  west 
wall,  in  numerous  places,  is  nearly  magnetic  north  and  south,  (north  16°  E..by 
true  meridian.) 


342  RESOURCES    OF   STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

Enclostkg  Rocks. — But  little  if  any  doubt  now  remains  that  tlie  Comstock 
is  a  true  fissure  vein.  The  enclosing  rock  on  the  east  throughout  its  entire  length 
as  far  as  knowji  is  "  propylite," .  a  species  of  porphyry,  var\-ing  much  in  its 
appearance  at  different  points,  as  the  crystallization  is  coarser  or  finer,  and  decom- 
])Osition  more  or  less  advanced.  The  country  rocks  on  the  west  vary  considerably. 
On  the  slopes  of  Mount  Davidson  and  Mount  Butler  it  is  sienite;  north  of  this 
propylite  occurs  on  both  sides ;  while  in  souihem  Gold  Hill  various  metamorphic 
rocks  occur  on  the  western  side. 

West  Wall. — The  west  Avail  of  the  lode  is  separated  from  the  country  rock 
by  a  well  defined  clay  selvage,  and  maiutains  a  remarkaby  uniform  dip  of  about 
38°  or  40°  to  the  eastward  at  the  surface,  gradually  increasing  to  about  45°, 
which  it  maintains  to  the  lowest  depths  hitherto  explored.  The  east  wall  near 
the  surface  has  a  false  dip  to  the  westward,  gradually  becoming  vertical,  and  at 
a  depth  of  400  or  500  feet  turns  to  the  eastward,  and  continues  down  more  or 
less  parallel  with  the  west  wall.  Owing  to  the  flat  dip  of  the  lode  this  eastern  or 
hanging  wall  is  less  clearly  marked  than  the  western  or  foot  wall,  frequently 
dropping  down  on  or  near  the  foot  wall.  When  this  is  the  case,  another  clay 
is  usually  found  to  the  eastward,  and  this  stractiu-e  will  probably  continue  for 
an  indefinite  depth.  Developments  appear  to  show  it  to  be  most  frequent  where 
the  walls  of  the  lode  approach  each  other  rapidly. 

Width  or  Lode. — The  jaws  of  the  fissure  at  the  surface,  as  before  stated,  are 
frf>m  500  to  1,000  feet  apart,  gradually  approaching  each  other  in  depth  until  the 
fissure  is  reduced  to  an  average  width  of  150  feet.  This  is  not  maintained,  how- 
ever, with  any  regularity.  The  west  wall  maintains  a  tolerably  straight  course, 
though  conforming  to  some  extent  to  the  general  direction  of  the  mountain  range; 
but  the  eastern  clays  arc  full  of  sinuosities,  which  produce  in  the  vein  a  series  of 
swells  and  nips.  In  Virginia  these  are  very  strongly  marked,  the  nips  usually 
occurring  where  the  lode  intersects  a  ravine,  and  the  swells  corresponding  to  the 
prominent  spurs  of  the  mountain.  One  of  the  best  illustrations  of  this  structm'e 
occurs  in  the  ground  owned  by  the  Savage,  Hale  and  Norcross,  and  Chollar- 
Potosi  Mining  Companies.  At  the  north  line  of  the  Savage  mine  the  clays, 
including  what  is  generally  termed  the  vein,  are  probably  about  100  feet  apart. 
Going  southward  they  diverge  to  a  width  of  500  feet  or  upwards,  again  contracting 
to  the  southward,  rapidly  at  first,  and  then  more  gradually,  until,  at  a  point  in 
the  Chollar-Potosi  mine  1,900  feet  south  of  the  starting  point,  the  vein  matter 
included  between  the  same  clays  is  not  more  than  20  feet  in  thickness,  and  con- 
sists principall}'  of  an  iiTCgular  clayey  mass,  caused  by  the  union  of  several  seams 
of  clay,  which  show  themselves  in  the  vein  to  the  northward.  This  great  swell 
of  the  eastern  clay  imites  the  clay  bounding  two  subordinate  swells,  spanning 
at  the  same  time  what  was  supposed  to  be  a  nip  of  the  vein,  and  recent  develop- 
ments render  it  probable  that  clays  will  j'et  be  found  to  the  east  of  apparent 
contractions  of  the  lode,  uniting  the  swells  which  bound  them  to  the  north  and 
soutli.  The  importance  of  thoroughly  understanding  this  feature  of  the  lode 
will  become  apparent  when  the  dilliculties  of  exploring  the  Comstock  lode  come 
under  consideration. 

Filling  of  the  Vein. — It  must  not  be  supposed,  however,  that  the  whole 
of  this  immense  fissure  is  filh'd  with  valuable  ore.  Near  the  surface  the  aggre- 
gate thickiu'ss  of  the  qiuirtz  seams  is  in  man}'  places  not  more  than  five-sixths 
of  the  total  width  of  the  lode.  There  are  points  where  develoi)nients  show 
upwards  of  150  feet  of  (juartz,  occurring  between  the  clays  without  any  inter- 
mixture of  foreign  matter,  l)ut  whvn  this  is  the  case  the  mineral  is  distributed 
tlirough  the  whole  mass  too  sparingly  to  make  it  valuable  at  the  present  time. 
Considering  the  vein  as  a  whole,  it  is  safe  to  say  that  at  least  tAvo-thirds  of  it 
are  filled  with  immense  ''horses"  or  masses  of  country  rock,  chiefly  detached 
from  the  hanging  wall,  between  which  are  found  the  belts  of  metalliferous 
quartz.     These  masses  of  country  rock  are  frequently  of  such  great  length  and 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY   MOUNTAINS  843 

tTiiclvness  as  to  liave  formed  ono  of  the  stroncfcst  ar£!;uiiicnts  in  favor  of  tlie  theory 
that  there  was  not  merely  one  lodo,  but  a  belt  of  lodes  runniiio'  alu.iig  the  foot  of 
^fount  Davidson.  Tliey  are  usually  bounded  by  clay  selvages,  uniting  and 
dividing,  both  in  the  length  of  the  lode  and  vertically,  producing  a  coniidicatcd 
network  of  clay  seams  throughout  its  entire  length,  which  materially  interferes 
with  its  drainage.  Other  portions  of  the  lodo  are  filled  with  a  brecciatcd  mass 
of  porphyry  quartz  and  clay,  -which,  from  the  rounded  character  of  the  enclosed 
pebbles,  gives  evidence  of  the  intense  dynamic  action  of  the  vein. 

Bonanzas,  or  Ore  Bodies. — The  ore  bodies  lie  chiefly  in  the  swells  of  the 
vein,  usually  forming  in  their  upper  portion,  at  or  near  the  eastern  clays,  and,  as 
their  position  is  more  vertical  than  the  dip  of  the  lode,  they  gradually  drop  down 
on  the  west  wall,  leaving  room  to  the  eastward  for  the  formation  of  new  bodies. 
In  Virginia  their  form  is  usually  that  of  lenticular  masses,  with  their  longer  axes 
in  the  direction  of  the  lode,  dij^ping  at  the  same  time  to  the  southward.  In 
Gold  Hill  the  ore  occurs  in  sheets,  lying  more  or  less  parallel  to  the  east  wall, 
the  change  from  one  structure  to  the  other  occm'ring  in  the  Chollar-Potosi  mine. 
The  bonanza  in  the  Ophir-Mesican  mines  was  about  200  feet  in  length  and 
330  in  depth,  attaining  a  maximum  thickness  of  about  45  feet,  and  tapering 
above  and  below  to  two  or  three  feet.  The  Gould  and  Cany  bonanza  was 
nearly  650  feet  long,  over  500  feet  in  depth,  and  about  one  hundred  feet  wide  at 
its  greatest  expansion.  The  immense  deposit  of  ore  in  the  Savage  and  Hale  & 
Norcross  mines  first  showed  at  a  depth  of  about  500  feet.  It  partakes  of  the 
crescent  shape  of  the  east  clay,  which  it  follows  closely,  varying  in  width  from 
10  to  50  feet.  It  is  known  to  extend  to  a  depth  of  over  250  feet,  and  will 
probably  continue  as  much  loW'Cr.  Its  total  length  is  upwards»of  800  feet.  In 
the  Chollar  mine  a  large  lenticular  mass  of  red  ore,  200  feet  long,  300  deep,  and 
aV)out  25  wide,  has  been  developed.  In  the  Potosi  the  ore  lies  in  a  sheet  near 
the  eastern  clay. 

Ores. — The  ores  of  the  Comstock  consist  chiefly  of  vitreous  silver  ore, 
stephanite,  native  silver,  and  argentiferous  galena,  imbedded  in  a  quartz  gangue. 
Beside  these,  ruby  silver,  horn  silver,  and  polybasite  occur  in  small  quantities ; 
also,  native  gold,  iron  and  copper  pyrites  and  zinc  blend.  These  all  usually 
occur  in  an  amorphous  condition,  good  crystallized  specimens  being  remarkably 
rare.  In  the  Kentuck  mine  (Gold  Hill)  carbonate  of  lime  occurs  in  the  gangue, 
and  in  the  deep  workings  in  Virginia  sulphate  of  lime  is  an  abundant  mineral. 
The  Fairview  mine  formerly  produced  fine  crystals  of  the  latter. 

Developments  on  the  Comstock  Lode. — The  structm-e  of  the  lode,  as 
shown  by  the  underground  works,  has  already  been  spoken  of.  The  true  dip  of 
the  lode  was  not  understood  for  some  time  after  its  discovery.  The  false  dip  of 
the  east  wall  at  the  surface  induced  a  belief  that  the  vein  would  pitch  to  the 
westward,  and,  consequently,  the  first  working  shafts  were  located  accordingly. 
The  majonty  of  these,  at  least  in  Virginia,  reached  the  west  wall  at  depths 
varying  from  450  to  600  feet,  and  owing  to  the  intensely  hard  nature  of  the 
westeni  country  rock  had  to  he  abandoned  as  far  as  deeper  explorations  were 
couceiTied ;  the  cost  of  sinking  and  drifting  back  into  the  vein,  the  constant 
repair  required  by  shafts  located  in  the  rein,  and  the  necessity  of  more  powerful 
machinery  as  great  depth  was  attained,  all  tending  to  this  result.  Tlie  principal 
companies  mining  on  the  C<mistock,  in  Virginia  and  North  Gold  Hill,  have 
accordingly  erected  new  hoisting  works,  about  1,000  feet  cast  of  the  old  shafts, 
on  ground  not  likely  to  settle  to  any  serious  extent,  and  in  these  shafts  the  fol- 
lowing de[)ths  have  been  attained : 

Gould  &  Curry 850 

Savage 670 

Hale  &  Norcross 500 

Chollar  Potosi 830 

Empire-Imperial  (Gold  Hill) 920 


344'  EESOURCES     OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

These  shafts  are,  or  will  be,  furnished  with  machinery  of  the  finest  description, 
capable  of  working  to  depths  ranging  fiom  1,200  to  2,000  feet.  In  Southern 
Gold  Hill  the  original  shaft  of  the  Belcher  Company  has  been  carried  doAvn  to 
a  depth  of  850  feet. 

While  many  of  the  originally  discovered  bonanzas  have  been  worked  out, 
depreciating  the  value  of  the  mines  where  they  occuiTed,  as  in  the  case  of  the 
Ophir  and  Gould  &  CuiTy,  the  comparatively  recent  discovery  of  the  Savage- 
Norcross  bonanza  gives  good  foundation  for  believing  that  they  will  again  become 
productive.  This  deposit  was  not  found  until  the  Hale  &  Norcross  Company 
had  been  at  work  for  nearly  five  years,  and  had  attained  a  depth  of  700  feet. 
Their  location  covered  what  was  supposed  to  be  a  nip  of  the  vein,  and  having 
exhausted  all  other  means,  as  a  last  resource,  the  supposed  east  wall  was  pierced 
and  a  drift  run  to  the  eastward  from  the  700  feet  level^  with  but  little  encourage- 
ment until,  at  360  feet  east  of  what  had  hitherto  been  considered  the  east  wall, 
this  magnificent  discovery  was  made.  The  body  of  ore  has  been  followed  up 
200  feet,  and  lying  so  far  from  the  west  wall,  will,  judging  by  analogy,  continue 
down  for  a  great  depth.  This  discovery  made  valuable  800  feet  of  ground, 
which  up  to  that  time  had  pmduced  nothing,  though  lying  between  the  valuable 
deposits  in  the  Gould  &  Curry  and  Chollar-Potosi  mines. 

Nearly  1,500  feet  of  ground  between  the  Gould  &  Cmiy  works  and  the  Ophir 
mine  is  to-day  in  the  former  condition  of  this  ground,  having  been  prospected 
only  to  a  depth  of  about  350  feet,  and  found  to  contain  nothing,  or  merely  ores 
of  too  small  a  value  to  pay  for  extraction.  Much  other  gi'ound  which  has  been 
examined,  chiefly  in  the  neighboi'hood  of  the  west  wall,  should  be  prospected  to 
the  east,  experience  clearly  showing  that  all  valuable  ore  bodies  originate  on  that 
side  of  the  fissure.  The  bodies  of  quartz  forming  on  the  west  wall  are  unifoiTuly 
baiTen,  or  of  very  inferior  quality. 

Tlie  development  of  the  vein  has  been  greatly  retarded  by  various  causes. 
Among  these  the  most  prominent  have  been  the  fear  of  causing  litigation  by 
prospecting  to  the  eastward  and  making  discoveries  which  were  certain  to  be 
claimed  by  some  of  the  innumerable  locations  made  in  early  times,  and  the  fact 
that  almost  all  mining  stocks  are  here  owned  only  temporarily  for  speculative 
purposes.  In  the  first  respect  a  happier  era  is  dawning.  Repeated  litigation 
has  only  tended  to  show  conclusively  that  the  many  parallel  outcrops  of  quartz, 
each  of  which  was  located  by  a  difterent  company,  unite  in  depth  or  disappear 
entirely,  and  the  titles  to  the  principal  mines  are  now  nearly  free  from  fmther 
dispute.  As  far  as  the  latter  cause  is  concerned,  the  trouble  will  probably  con- 
tinue for  manj^  years.  To  thoroughly  understand  any  arbitrary  section  of  ground 
a  knowledge  of  the  adjoining  property  is  almost  indispensable.  This  is  frequently 
attainable  only  to  a  limited  extent.  It  too  often  happens  that  the  trae  condition 
and  structure  of  a  mine  is  concealed,  lest  the  information  should  aftect  the  schemes 
of  those  who  are  operating  in  its  stocks.  A  ccmabination  of  mining  superin- 
tendents and  the  establishment  of  a  general  oflicc,  where  maps  of  the  various 
min(>s  could  be  consulted  by  those  desiring  information,  would  prove  prejudicial 
to  mining-stock  speculators,  but  Mould  tend  greatly  to  check  the  useless  expen- 
diture of  money,  and  materially  increase  tlie  legitimate  profits  of  our  mining 
enterprises,  by  (■nal)ling  superintendents  to  lay  out  their  work  with  judgment  and 
greater  certainty  than  is  at  present  the  case. 

Mode  of  mining  on  the  Comstook. — Shafts. — Mining  on  the  Comstock 
is  carried  on  almost  exclusively  through  perpendicular  shafts,  explorations  having 
penetrated  below  the  deepest  adits,  wliicli  are  now  used  almost  exclusively  as 
drains,  to  avoid  the  necessity  of  hoisting  the  water  to  the  surface.  The  original 
shafts  were  nuicli  less  substantial  than  those  now  in  use,  being  merely  lined  witli 
planks  about  three  inches  thick,  the  compartments  being  two  or  three  in  number 
and  about  four  and  a  half  feet  square.  The  principal  shafts  now  in  use  are  fine 
specimens  of  mining  engineering.     The  Cnrtig  shaft  of  the  Savage  Company 


t^^ij..^ii^\ 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY   MOUNTAINS.  345 

lias  four  compartments,  three  of  them,  for  hoisting,  beinii:  five  feet  square,  and 
the  fourth,  which  is  oociipiod  liy  the  hoistim,'  machinery,  five  feet  by  six.  The 
Bonner  shaft  of  tlie  Goukl  &  Curry  Company  and  the  ChoHar-Potosi  and 
Kmpire-Imperial  sliafts  are  simihir  in  their  character,  while  the  Hale  6c  Norcross 
shaft,  being-  intended  for  the  exploration  of  much  less  ground,  has  onlv  three 
compartments.  The  mode  of  construction  in  all  these  shafts  is  similar,  cribs  of 
12-ineh  timbers  being  inserted  every  five  feet,  supported  by  vertical  i)osts  of  the 
same  size.  This  cribbing  is  covered  on  the  outside  by  lagging  of  three  or  four- 
inch  planks.  Wooden  guides  are  then  inserted  down  each  side  of  the  compart- 
ments for  the  purpose  of  retaining  the  })latform  cages,  used  for  ascent  from  and 
descent  into  the  mine,  in  their  places.  For  some  years  iron  guides  were  much  in 
use,  but  have  now  been  superseded  almost  entirely  by  wood,  as  less  liable  to 
accident.  The  cost  of  sinking  these  shafts  varies,  of  course,  with  the  nature  i>f 
the  ground'  encountered.  The  Bonner  shaft  w-as  put  dow-n  to  the  depth  of  525^ 
feci,  at  an  average  cost  of  $100  78  per  foot,  including  such  a  proportion  of  the 
total  cost  of  pumping  and  hoisting  as  was  chargeable  to  this  account.  The  fol- 
lowing ttvble  shows  the  amount  expended  for  each  department  of  the  work.  It 
is  made  up  for  a  depth  of  692  J  feet,  and  shows  that  the  last  67  feet  of  the  shaft 
cost  considerably  more  in  proportion  than  the  upper  portions,  as  it  raised  the 
average  cost  per  foot  to  $109  o6. 

Cost  of  sinking  the  Bonner  shaft. 

Paid  for  excavation $22,3-24  .'"lO 

Lumber 5, 400  05 

Timber 9,(570  67 

Framing  timbers 3,518  00 

Placing  timbers J,  570  .'iO 

Carmen 3,530  00 

Lowering  pumps,  &c.,  «tc 4,  683  75 

Picks  and  drills 2,041  50 

Powder  and  fuze 29 1  00 

Caudles 1,054  30 

Other  materials 1, 777  13 

Cost  of  running  machinery,  keeping  pumps  in  order,  pitmen,  &c 19,817  00 

75, 738  40 


TmrNELS  AND  Drifts. — From  these  shafts  drifts  are  run  to  the  vein,  gener- 
ally about  100  feet  apart  vertically  ;  but  it  seldom  happens  that  the  levels  iu 
aiiv  one  mine  coiTCspond  with  those  in  the  mines  adjoining.  This  arises  from 
the  minc§  being  worked  entirely  independent  of  each  other.  But  few  of  these 
tunnels  will  stand  without  protection.  The  main  working  drifts  are  usually 
timbered  every  five  feet,  the  timbers  varying  from  eight  to  twelve  inches  square, 
according  to  the  nature  of  the  ground  to  be  sustained.  In  many  places,  even 
12-inch  timbers  carmot  resist  the  inmiense  pressure  brought  upon  them  by  the 
slacking  and  expansion  of  the  material  through  which  the  drifts  are  run,  imme- 
diately on  its  exposure  to  the  atmosjdiere.  It  is  not  uncommon  to  see  timbers 
com})letely  cnished,  notwithstanding  the  utmost  precautions,  in  six  months  after 
they  have  been  placed  in  the  mine.  Main  working  drifts,  after  timbering,  are 
usually  about  six  feet  high  in  the  clear,  three  and  a  half  to  four  feet  wide  at  the 
top,  and  somewhat  more  in  the  bottom.  Temporary  prospecting  drifts  are  much 
smaller  in  size,  and  generally  left  untimbered,  if  practicable,  till  they  develop 
something  of  value.  In  each  drift  is  laid  a  wooden  track  shod  with  iron,  on 
■which  the  material  extracted  from  the  mine  is  run  out  to  the  shaft  in  dumping 
cars,  holding  from  1,000  to  1,.'')00  pounds.  To  avoid  repeated  handling  of  the 
ore  or  waste,  the  same  cars  are  hoisted  on  the  cage  to  the  surface,  and  their  con- 
tents there  distributed  to  the  ])roper  places.  The  following  tables  will  give 
some  idea  of  the  cost  of  this  branch  of  mininc: 


346 


RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 


•;ooj  luauii  J3d  ^800 

00 

to 

•BITJJOX 

$1, 109  94 
848  44 
897  07 

1,  073  50 
2,513  22 
3,218  50 

2,  593  90 
2, 198  25 

745  84 

00 

F- 

•ssxoq  Jiv 

$12  72 
9  54 
9  60 
19  80 
62  80 
82  00 
65  00 
52  80 
16  00 

to 
n 

•saipnco 

$27  00 

21  60 
24  30 
28  35 
89  70 

118  39 
91  03 
72  93 

22  44 

•aznj  pun  aapMo,! 

oiraooooof^i^ 

tOOQ032C)rI<oaOCO 
—  r-.rHCiCT>J<CO-0'C< 

o 

C( 

■siU-ip  pnB  S5pi<j 

OOOIOOOOOO 
L0  000t~00000 
ClO^OOOf*tOOOt?)(3^ 
OJ  rl  (N  ■*  <0  03  OS  O  rH 

s 

o 

pire     uoai    310BJX 

$13  77 

10  39 

11  60 
20  28 
41  68 
55  70 
48  84 
35  45 
10  68 

00 
Oi 

•jaqniii  Snp 
-Bid  puB  SaiuiTjj^ 

$42  00 

31  50 

32  90 
63  00 

110  50 
143  50 
113  75 
92  50 
23  00 

to 

s 

to 

•SnnidS 

$50  40 
37  80 
39  48 
75  50 
122  46 
110  70 
92  53 
70  20 
24  00 

o 
n 

to 

•jaqmni 

$9  12 

6  84 

7  14 

13  68 
18  84 
24  60 
18  20 

14  78 
4  80 

o 
o 

00 

•joqmix 

$146  83 
98  72 
118  25 
220  24 
308  04 
402  21 
297  55 
241  72 
74  55 

00 

8 

•notjBA 
-Boxo  JO  ?so9  pnox 

$767  00 

598  00 

611  00 

1, 170  00 

1,661  00 

2, 151  00 

1,  739  00 

1,515  00 

525  00 

8 

rH 

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ooootointo'^o 

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i9aj  JO  -on; 

c;tor*or*Trr:oiO 

r 

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CV  r—  O  to  C<  C^  -V  C^  CT)  f~  o  o 

-J  r-  to  o  t~  c!  t~  c»  to  c)  C-.  -^ 

— '-^CM-sc^t^rr"  —  -<?•  —  tc 

focotoot^'^t^'^'^r^o 


tOCTtOOOOOOOCO 

rot^c:ocotooc:o^o 
to  CJ  to  n  Tj-  CO  i-o  cj  to  C-:  o 

<f^r—  •-■  CJ  rt  CJ  CO  «  L-  ^  o 


OOOOOO-5'O'^OOlOtD 

LO  CO  CO  «  c;  to  to  c)  o  o  I1 1) 

COrf-^-^tOLOOOtOOCtOOtO 

—  C(  CJ  CJ  o<  i~  to  -^  t^  o  -r  CI 


iraoooooooor~co 


—  — KNOlrlCOi-Hi-'COCOtO 


ooomoooooooo 

OOlOt^OOOiOCOOO 

OiratJ>lOVOOi<— IC»0— '(^ 
--'.-li-tCOCOCO'S"*Ot~f-'r3 


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t~'*00C0'^O00O10OC^L'3 

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ooooooooomoo 
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— 1  c»  to  to  Ln  r~  o  to  00  !^  m  (M 
c«'^iotO'«>'aO'Hmojr-t~e^ 


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c<  c*  o  o  to  oj  CO  cj  00  c)  m  o 

int^oc-*"^tocococi'^ciC5 
c*totoooinr*OTt^o-n' 


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^mooraooo— 'c^invno-f 
'ce-    r-4iH     OS  in  to -<  m  t- ■<»« 


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■«/*rt  ,-l<^(rH<^^coc^'»■T>•ln^-^ 


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OOO— ■  —  OCIC!-^— I— 'J~'0 
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WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  347 

STonxCr  is  univorsally  oonrluctcd  by  opcnitic;  a  level  below  tlio  body  of  ore 
to  be  exf vacteil,  and  working-  upward  on  the  vein.  On  the  Conistock,  tlie  open- 
inijfs  made  in  niinini^  the  ore  are  so  lurg'e  that  a  comidicated  system  of  tiinbcriniW' 
is  requisite  to  ix'plaee  the  material  extracted.  A  rectangular  system  of  timbers 
is  usually  adcipted,  the  posts  being  about  seven  feet  in  length,  12  inches  square, 
and  placed  about  iive  feet  ajiart  from  centre  to  centre.  These  arc  retained  in 
their  places  by  "caps"  and  "sills,"  and  farther  to  secure  the  mine  each  floor,  as 
far  as  practicable,  is  filled  up  with  waste  material  as  soon  as  it  is  worked  oixt. 
In  early  days  too  little  attention  was  paid  to  this  last  precauticm,  resulting  in 
extensive  ''  caves"  or  giving  way  of  the  ground  from  the  superincumbent  pressure. 
If  a  body  of  ore  is  entirely  extracted  the  result  is  not  serious  ;  but  should  any 
remain  initouched,  the  cost  and  difficulty  of  securing  it  after  a  "cave"  has  occur- 
red in  its  vicinity  is  usually  greatly  increased  fi'om  the  broken  and  shattered 
condition  of  the  ground.  The  quantity  of  timber  used  in  these  stopes  is  immense, 
as  will  be  seen  by  the  details  of  the  annual  consumption  on  a  future  page.  Any 
means  wMch  would  diminish  its  price  would  be  a  great  gain  to  the  entire  com- 
munity. 

PnosPECTrxG  for  new  ore  bodies  fonns  a  serious  item  in  the  cost  of  mining  on 
the  Comstock.  When  the  great  and  irregular  width  of  the  vein,  the  in-egular 
distribution  of  the  ore  bodies,  the  uncertainty  of  their  occurrence,  and  our  imper- 
fect knowledge  of  the  structure  of  the  vein  are  taken  into  consideration,  the  diffi- 
culty of  laying  out  })rospecting  works  to  the  best  advantage  becomes  apparent. . 
Immense  sums  of  money  are  spent  annually  in  this  kind  of  work,  whicli  must  be 
taken  entirely  from  the  pockets  of  the  shareholders  when  a  mine  is  unproductive. 
If  only  moderately  productive  the  entire  revenue  may  be  consumed  in  looking 
for  more  valuable  bodies  of  ore  ;  at  the  same  time,  the  certainty  of  being  richly 
rewarded  for  years  of  waiting  if  they  are  found,  induces  the  continuation  of  work 
on  mines  which  have  not  yielded  a  dollar  for  years.  They  are  known  on  the 
main  fissure  of  the  Comstock  to  be  surroundedby  good  property,  and  may  become 
valual)le  at  any  moment.  The  Hale  and  Norcross  mine  is  a  good  illustration. 
The  following  extract  is  taken  from  the  annual  report  of  the  president  of  the 
company,  for  1S66  : 

Heretofore  the  entire  expense  of  opening  the  mine,  erecting  machinery,  &c.,  had  to  be  borne 
from  money  collected  by  assessments,  until  they  aggregated  the  sum  of  $;3riO,000,  equal  to 
S875  per  foot.  For  the  year  just  ended  the  trustees  have  been  enabled  to  return  to  the  stock- 
holders, in  dividends,  the  sum  of  $490,000,  equal  to  $1,225  per  foot,  or.  in  one  year  to  repay 
the  assessments  collected  in  five  years,  with  the  handsome  sum  of  $350  per  foot  in  addition, 
besides  carrying  over  the  large  surplus  in  cash  of  $133,288  99,  equal  to  a  further  sum  of 
$333  22  per  foot,  making  altogether  the  handsome  profit,  in  one  year,  of  $1,558  22  per  foot, 
or  155  per  cent,  on  the  par  value  of  the  stock. 

In  this  connection  the  advantages  of  a  community  of  knowledge  and  interest 
among  the  mining  superintendents  would  be  of  immense  value,  the  experience 
of  all  becoming  available  by  each,  thus  reducing  the  cost  of  explorations  by 
showing  in  what  portion  of  the  ditferent  mines  deposits  of  ore  are  most  likely  to 
be  found,  and  thus  directing  attention  more  jDavticularly  to  them.  Every  dollar 
spent  on  an  unproductive  mine  is  so  much  taken  out  of  the  aggregate  net  profits 
of  the  mining  interest,  and  every  dollar  which  can  be  saved  woukl  be  equal  to 
the  same  amount  distributed  in  dividends.  But  because  a  mine  on  the  CNjmstock 
is  unproductive  to-day,  is  no  reason  why  it  should  be  abandoned.  The  only 
})oint  to  be  considered  is  how  it  may  be  developed  in  the  most  economical  manner, 
and  the  plan  suggested  above  appears  to  afford  a  solution  of  the  difficulty.  The 
inefficient  character  of  the  results  obtained  by  many  companie*  working  on  the 
Comstock  lode,  when  compared  with  the  money  expended,  is  well  known  toper- 
sons  familiar  with  our  mines,  and  can  only  be  remedied  by  some  such  organiza- 
tion. 


348  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

Number  of  engines  on  the  lode. 


Hoisting. 

Pamping. 

Hoisting'  and 
pumping. 

Name  of  mine. 

C 

3 

o 

•a  C 

^  s 

W 

a 

s 

o 

t  i 

1  ^ 

J" 

S 

3 
I? 

o 

n 

Alleu 

1 

30 

1 

2 

60 
30 

1 

1 

200 
200 

..„.. 

Sides  

50 

1 

3 
1 

1 

w 

1 

60 
60 
60 
60 

1 

150 

1 
1 

250 
150 

40 

60      \ 
20     5 
60 

1 

1 

60 
60 

1 
1 
1 

2 

60 

60 

30 

33 

1 

Plato  &^  Bowers                        ... 

1 
2 
1 
1 

10 

20 

35 

25 

1 

60? 
60 

1 

100? 

1 

€0 

r 

1 

40 
60 

1 
1 

40 
40 

Belcher 

2 

30 

1 

40 

1 

60 

1 

Total 

22 

11 

16 

*  Donkey  engine. 

These  engines  were  almost  universally,  in  early  times,  attached  to  friction 
hoisting  gear,  but  the  increase  of  depth  attained  has  almost  hanished  this 
mode  of'operation,  the  great  weight  of  the  rope  and  car  rendering  it  unsafe.  Flat 
wire  ropes  have  almost  entirely  superseded  the  hemp  ropes  originally  employed. 
For  hoisting  ore  cages  are  employed  in  all  instances,  buckets  being  used  only 
for  sinking  in  the  shafts.  These  cages  are  fitted  with  a  variety  of  appliances  to 
insure  safety  in  case  of  accident  to  the  ropes  or  hoisting  machinery. 

Pumps. — The  largest  pumj)s  in  use  are  14  inches  in  diameter;  the  greater 
number,  however,  range  from  10  to  12  inches.  The  amount  of  water  to  contend 
with  varies  greatly  in  dilFerent  mines,  being,  as  a  whole,  more  abundant  in  the 
north  end  of  the  lode.  The  Oiihir  Mexican  pump  throws  about  oOO  gallons  per 
minute,  and  must  be  run  steadily  to  kec})  the  mine  free  of  water.  The  Bullion 
mine,  about  one  mile  to  the  southward,  is  comparatively  dry,  and  in  most  cases 
a  few  hours'  })umping  daily  is  sufficient  to  rid  it  of  water.  Small  pamping 
machinery  would  generally  be  sufficient  was  there  not  always  a  risk  of  tapping 
bodies  of  water  dammed  up  by  the  clay  seams  in  the  vein  already  spoken  of. 
These  rcserv'oirs  generally  yield  a  large  volume  when  first  struck,  but  rapidly 
diminish  to  a  small  stream.  The  machinery  must  be  adequate,  however,  to  the 
duty  imposed  upon  it  at  such  times,  otherwise  serious  detention  and  damage  may 
be  the  result. 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  349 

Amount  of  Orp:  raised  from  the  Mines. — The  amount  of  ore  raised  from 
the  mines  on  the  Comstock  lode  may  be  put  down  at  the  present  time  at  about 
1,-000  tons  daily,  and  the  total  amount  raised  since  the  con)mencement  of  opera- 
tions at  about  2,000,000  tons.  The  followin<^-  table,  compiled  by  S.  II.  Marlette, 
the  surveyor  c^eneral  of  Nevada,  from  returns  made  to  the  assessor,  for  the  year 
1SG6,  shows  tlie  number  of  tons  produced  quarterly  ])y  the  several  mines  Avhich 
yielded  more  than  $20  i)cr  ton.  Some  mines,  ownin<^  mills  of  their  own,  work 
iv>ck  yielding  as  low  as  $15  per  ton,  but  no  record  of  this  becomes  public,  and 
is  very  difficidt  to  obtain,  chiefly  owing-  to  disinclination  on  the  part  of  owners  C)f 
unincorporated  mines  to  make  their  operations  public.  The  table  also  shows  the 
yield  of  the  ore  per  ton. 

"Yield  of  Ore  per  Ton. — From  information  furnished  by  the  superintendents 
of  the  following  mines,  the  yield  per  ton  appeal's  to  be — 

Savage  mine — 30,250  tons  produced  in  the  last  six  months  of  1866,  yielded 
an  average  of  $42  93  per  ton. 

Hale  and  Norcross  mine — 16,836  tons  produced  in  the  same  time,  yielded  an 
average  of  $50  33  per  ton. 

Gould  and  Curry  mine — 62,425  tons  produced  in  1866,  yielded  an  average  of 
828  64  per  ton. 

The  following  table  shows  the  nund)er  of  tons  of  ore,  worth  more  than  $20 
per  ton,  ])roduced  quarterly  by  mines  on  the  Comstock  lode,  names  of  the  mines, 
and  vield  of  some  of  the  ores : 


350 


RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 


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4 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  351 

Cost  of  Mining  per  Ton. — The  following  items  are  IVoin  official  soui-ces : 

Savage  mine — average  cost x)cr  ton  of  the  last  six  months  of  1866. 

Officials $0  30 

Extriictins:  ore 3  ()0 

Prospcctiug 05 

Accessory  work 1  04 

Improvements 2  04 

Incidentiil  expenses j  ]0 

Total  cost  per  ton 8  82 

Gould  and  Curry  mine — average  costjycr  tan  for  the  12  months  ending  November 

30,  1866. 

Officials $0  21 

Prospecting  and  dead  work 2  11 

Extracting 3  10 

Accessory 1  82 

Improvements .' 62 

Total  cost  per  ton 7  86 

Hale  and  Norcross  mine — average  cost  per  ton  for  the  12  months  ending  March 

20,  1867. 

Managerial ., $0  31.7 

Hoisting 2  .38.7 

Mining 4  79 

Improvements 6.5.9 

Incidentals 92,9 

Total  cost  per  ton 9  08. 2 


These  results  show  a  marked  improvement  on  previous  years,  and  enable  lower 
grade  ores  to  be  worked  more  profitably  than  was  fomierly  the  case.  Some  portion 
of  the  diminution  in  cost  is  due  to  the  lower  price  of  material,  but  by  far  the 
greater  part  to  more  efficient  management  and  systematization  of  labor. 


352 


RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

Tabular  list  of  mills  crushing  ore  from  mines 


Names. 


Owners. 


STORKY  COUNTY. 

Atlas 

At  wood's 

Bay  State 

Bowers'...- 

Central 

Crown  Point  (1) 

Comet  (1) 

DoTiglas  (1) 

Eclipse 

Empire  State 

Empire  No.  1  (1) 

Empire  No.  2  (1) 

Gold  Hill 

Gould  <t  Curry 

Hoo!-ier  State 

Imperial 

Land's 

Mariposa 

MarysvUle  (1) 

Ogden .. 

Pacific , 

Petaluma  CI) 

Piute 

Eliode  Island 

Kigby's(l) 

Rogers's  (1) 

Sapphire 

iSinicooc 

Stevenson's  (1) 

Succor  (1) 

Summit 

Union 

"Winfield 

Total 33 


LYON   COUNTY. 


Haggin  &  Tevis  . . 

George  Atwood 

Bay  State  Mill  Co. 

L.  S.  Bowers 


Lower  Gold  Hill 

Flowery  (Six  Srile  Creek) . 
American  Flat 


1861 


Bacon 

P.irdsall  &  Carpenter 

Cole  &Co 

Confidence 

Davton  No.  I 

"Dayton  No.  2  (I) 

Dancy 

Eagle 

Eastern  Slope 

Eureka '. 

Excelsior 

Ernnklin 

Gold  Canon  Reduc- 
tion Works. 

Golden  Eagle 

Illinois 


Imperial  (Rock  Pt) 

Island 

Monitor 

Ophir(New) 

Pticenix  No.  1  (1)  .- 

Pion.-er  ( 1 ) 

Sacramento  (1) 

San  Francisco 

Swansea 


J.  B.  Dickenson 

Crown  Point  G.  &  S.  M.  Co 
New  York  &  Nevada  M.  Co 

C.  S.  Wheeler 

Eclipse  M.  &  M.  Co 

Wm.  Sharon,  Agent 

W.  S.  Hobart 

Empire  M.  &  SI.  Co 

GoldHillQ.  M.  &M.  Co.  .. 

Gould  &  Curry  M.  Co...... 

Clark  &  Hearst 

Imperial  S.  M.  Co 

Charles  Land 

J.  V.  McCurdy 

O'Neale.  Rule  &  Glasier  ... 

O.  S.  Carvill 

Sharon  &  Co 

Greely  Bros 

M.  Livingston 

Crown  Point  G.  &  S.  M.  Co. 

Ricbv  &  Co  .  J 

Rogp'rs  S.  M.  Co 

W.  S.  Hobart 

A.  Bassett  &  Co 

C.C.Stevenson 

O'Neale,  Rule  &  Co 

Mason,  Carville  &  Wright.. 
Wm.Kidd 

L.  A.  Booth 


Crown  Point  Ravine,  (G.H.) . . 

Virginia 

Crown  Point  Ravine,  (G.H.  j. . 

Gold  Hill 

Liwcr  Gold  Hill  

GpldHiU 

Seven  Mile  Canon 

Virginia 

Lower  Gold  Hill 


Gold  Hill. 


Seven  Mile  Canon 

Virginia ,  ... 

Lower  Gold  Hill.. 
Seven  Mile  Cauon. 

, do 

LowerGoldH.il.. 

Virginia 

Lower  Gold  Hill... 

do 

,.  ...do 

GoldHill 

American  Flat 

Seven  Mile  Canon 
Lower  Gold  Hill.. 
Seven  Mile  Cauon 

GoldHill 

Lower  GoldHill-., 

Virginia , 

GoldHill 


Seven  Mile  Canon 


Lowe  &  Fair 

Birdsall  &,  Carpenter... 

Cole  &.  Co 

Confidence  M.  Co 

Winters,  Kustell  &  Co  . 

do do 

Daney  M.  &  M.  Co 


Stevenson,  Winters  &Co. . 
Wheeler,  Hurd  &  Dunker. 

John  Briggs 

Wm.  Sharon,  agent 

Wm.  Sharon,  agent 


O'Neale,  Rule  &  Co... 
Wm.  Sharon,  agent 

Imperial  31.  Co 

O'Neale,  Rule  &Co... 

Hirsehman  &  Co 

Ophir  S.  M.  Co 

Hcntsch  and  Berton 

Sheldon  &.  Hickok 

Hunt,  Woodruff  &  Co. 

Charles  Schad 

VV.  Sharon,  agent 


Silver  City 

Dayton 

Johntown 

Silver  City 

Dayton 

do 

3  miles  from  Dayton 

SllverCitv 

Below  Silver  City 

Carson  River,  near  Dayton. 

Johntown 

Carson  River,  near  Dayton. 
Silver  City 


Carson  River,  near  Dayton. 
do do 


.do. 


...do 

do do 

Gold  Canon,  near  Dayton .. 

Carson  River 

Below  Silver  City 

Silver  City 

Johntown 

Carson  River,  near  Dayton. 
Johntown 


1862 

ieea 


1860 
l&CO 


1862 
1860 


1863 

1862 


1862 
1861 


1860 


(1) 
1861 


$35,  000  $21, 000 
35,  OCC  I  19,  550 
40,  000     24, 000 

100,000     15,400 

75,  000 
40,  COO 
40,  noo 
40, 000 
50,000 
35,  000 
75,  OCO 
8a  COO 

30,  OCO 

380,  000 

40,  000 

75,  000 

GO,  OCO 

20.  000 

50,  COO 

50,  COO 

75, 000 

30,  000 

80, 000 
100,000 

25,  OCO 

t,-.  COO 

no,  coo 

35,  000 
15,  OCO 
50,  OCO 
50,000 
25, 000 

8f),  000 


2,  COO,  CO'P  'l';"n.  7(!.' 


1863 
1865 
18G4 
1861 
1861 
1864 
1863 
1864 
1862 
1861 
1861 
1861 
1861 

1861 
1864 

1861 

1862 
1865 
1864 
1861 
1861 
1861 
1861 
1862 


$85,  COO 
(1)110.000 
10,  000 
35, 000 
50,  000 
40, 000 
70,  000 


60,000 
100,000 
25, 000 
50,  000 
40, 000 


30,000 

250,  000 

40,  000 
6,000 
75,000 
40,  000 
40,  000 
50,  COO 
4U,  0(iO 
60,  COO 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 
on  the  Coynstock  lode  during  the  year  1866. 


353 


I 

o 
o 

STAMPS. 

WHEELS. 

WATER 

WOOD.    " 

Motive  power. 

1 

a 
§ 

I 

.a 

c 
&. 

2 

0 

a 
S 

c. 

o. 
o 

Q 

• 
Kind. 

B 
S 

"3 
fa 

0 
.2 

0 

< 

u 
P. 

0 

•6 
g    . 

u 
a, 

0 
0 

36 

15 
16 
23 

20 

13 
8 
10 
10 
15 
15 
16 
16 

14 

80 

8 

44 

20 

(1)12 

9 

22 

,■50 

10 

20 

25 

10 

8 

16 
10 
(2)   8 
20 
20 

14 

18 

600 

41 
4* 
6 

4 

8 

5 

44 

4 

4 

5 

5i 

8 

3 

20 
3,^ 
6 
54 
4 
5 
6 
8 
34 
54 
8 
4 
34 
5 
5 
24 
6 
6 

24 
5 

1804 

8 
1 
2 
5 
1 
5 
6 
4 
6 
3 
24 
0 

6 
34 

64 

4 

1 

14 
6 
6 
5 
3 
5 

$13 

do      

do 

do 

C 10-600  ) 
\  10-700  i 

9 

70 

14 

...  do 

do 

35 

500 

9 

70 

14 

...  do 

14 

do 

650 

8 

78 

12i 

...  do 

14 

do 

do 

60 
60 

45 

650 
650 
<   6-750  J 
X    8-600  5 

9 
9 

7i 

80 
80 

84 

15 

do 

14 

do 

14 

...  do 

do 

20 
60 

7.50 
600 

9 

8 

70 

14 

do 

14 

do 

do 

...  do 

do 

do 

80 
30 

60 
(1)150 

650 
700 
650 
650 

10 

72 

'    14 

...  do 

14 

do 

10 
10 

80 
80 

14 

do 

14 

do 

do 

do 

45 

750 

9 

80 

134 

do 

500 

6 

76 

14 

do 

625 
C 10-650  ) 
X   4-500  5 

10 

70 
60 

14 

do 

40 

14 

do 

607 

60 

720 
613 
480 
900 
600 
800 
.550 
400 
1,100 
650 
6.50 
600 
700 

850 
400 
< 16-600  } 
I  40-5.50  5 
720 
450 
650 
650 
700 
760 
650 
900 

10 
9 
9 

75 
85 
65 

20 
30 

5 
(1)  12 
20 
15 
15 

5 
12 
20 
10 
10 
15 

10 
20 

56 

10 
5 
24 
16 
15 
12 
10 
12 

$1^ 
10 

Water 

50 

20 
35 

10 

do 

10 
10 

75 

75 

2 — central  discbarge 

5i 

12 

1,500 

84 

Steam 

60 
45 

84 

WBter 

37 

.... 

100 

Steam..- 

CO 

10 

50 

11 

Witter 

2,500 

40 

Wrtti-r 

2,500 

30 

40 
30 

50 

25 

9 

75 

121 

....do  

do 

10 

Steam  and  water. .. 

8i 

80 

2— Overshot 

Central  discharge . . 

{i-m! 

2  4-5 
32 
10 

14i 

32' 

14 

3,600 

1,800 
1,200 

10 

Water 

do 

40 
45 
45 
40 
30 
40 

Turbine ^.. 

10 

Steam 

do 

do 

Central  discharge.. 

10 

.... 

1,100 

Steam 

.... 

.... 

23 


354  EESOURCES    OP    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

Tabular  list  of  mills  crushing  ore  from  mines  on  the 


Name8. 


Owners. 


Location. 


o 

•3 

a 

•d  ' 

a 

B 

S 

H 

< 

$7.5,  000 

35  000 

•   8, 000 

1.  424. 000 

25  millg. 

$50,  000 

2.5,  000 

100,  000 . 

300,  000 

100, 000 

25, 000 

75,  000 

150,  000 

825, 000 

$75, 000 

60,  000 

100,  000 

75, 000 

34.  000 

100, 000 

150,  000 

60, 000 

140, 000 

794, 000 

LYON  COUNTY.-Con. 

Trench 

Weston's  (1) 

Weston's  (1) 

Total 27 


OnMSBY  COUNTY. 


Joseph  Trench 
Wm.  Westoa... 
Wm.  Weston... 


Silver  City  , 
Johntown  . . 
, do  .... 


1861 
1862 

1862 


Brunswick  .. 

Caraon 

Merrimac  (I) 
Wexican  (1)  . 
Santiago 


Williams  &  Sharon  . 
W.  Sharon,  agent... 
Rice  &  Yerrington.. 

Alsop  &  Co 

Santiago  M.  Co 


Sierra 

Vivian 

Yellow  Jacket. 


Beach  &  Harrington. 

P.  Frotiiingham 

Yellow  Jacket  M.  Co 


1  mile  below  Empire 

3  miles  west  of  Carson 

\h  mile  below  Empire 

Empire 

4  miles    below   Empire,    on 
Carson  river. 

3  miles  west  of  Carson •. 

3i  miles  below  Empire 

Empire 


1863 
1862 
1862 
1862 
1862 


1860 
1864 


Total 8 

WASHOE  COUNTY. 

Atchison 

Buckeye 

Manhattan  (1) 

Minnesota 

K:ipa  

Kew  York  &.  Washoe 
Ophir  Reduction 

Works  (1.) 
Temelec 

*  Washoe  Valley  Re- 
duction Works. 

Total 9 


Savage  Co 

Lambert  &Co 

New  York  &  Nevada  Co. .. 

Savage  M.  Co 

James  Hill  &.  Co 

Now  York  &  Washoe  Co. . . 
Ophir  M.  Co 


Baldwin  &,  Bonner - 
J.  H.Dall 


Washoe 

do  .... 

do  .... 

do  .... 

Galena 

Washoe 

Franktown . 


Washoe 

Franktown. 


1862 
1863 
1863 


1863 
1862 


1865 
1863 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 
Covistock  lode  during  the  year  18GG — Continued. 


355 


u 

% 

o 
o 

STAMPS. 

WHEELS. 

WATER. 

WOOD. 

Motive  power. 

s 

1 

•a 

n 

3 

o 
to 

41 
J3 

a 

0 

o. 
£ 

s 
a 

1 

U 

p. 
£ 
0 

Kind. 

u 

S 

cd 

5 

1^ 

.a 
.1 
a 
g 
g 
< 

t 

u 

■a 
o 
O 

o 

p. 

o 

O 

30 
40 

20 
15 
10 

600 
550 
250 

6 
4} 

...  do  

9 

9 

80 
70 

11 

40 

42 

80 

11 

i-2A 
29 

395 

1,000 

10 

80 

21 

i 

Water 

8 
10 
20 
44 
24 

8 
16 
40 

7* 
6 

...  do  

do 

74 
7i 
7i 

6 

AVater 

3— Central  discharge 

do 

650 

10 

80 

Central  discharge.. 

7 

14 

9 

■\Vater  

7i 

170 

6 
6 
6 
6 
4 
8 
20 

6 
20 

82 

20 
10 
24 
16 
20 
24 
72 

15 
60 

do 

:::::::: 

do 

300 

CO 

261 

L 


356  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

Tabular  list  of  mills  crushivg  ore  from  mines  on  the 


Owners. 


STOREY  COUNTY. 


Atliis 

Atwood'.s 

Bay  Statu 

liuwerK'  

(jentral 

Crown  Poiut  (1 ) 

Gomt-t  (i; 

Douglas  (1) 

Kelipse 

Empire  State   

Empire  No.  1  (1)  ... 
Empire  No.  2  (1)  ... 

Gold  Hill 

Gould  &  Curry 

lioosier  State 

Imperial 

Land's 

Mariposa 

Marysville  (1) 

Ogdeu 

Pacitic 

Petaluraa  (1) 

Piute 

Rhode  Island 

Rigby's(l) 

Kogers'  (1) 

Sapphire 

Simcooc 

Stevenson's  (1) 

Succor  (1) 

Summit 

Union 

Winfield 


Total'. 33 


LYON  COUNTY. 


Bacon 

BirdBullife  Carpenter 

Cole  &Co 

Confidence 

Dayton  No.  1 

Dayton  No.  2  <1) . ... 

Daney 

Eagle 

Eastern  Slope 

Eureka 

Excelsior 

Franklin 

Gold  Canon  Ueduc- 
tion  ■\Vork8. 

Golden  Eagle 

Illinois 

Ir»perial  (Rook  Pt.). 

Island 

Monitor 

Ophir(New) 

Phoenix  No.  1  (1). .. 

Pioneer  (1) 

Sacramento  (1).. 
San  Francisco... 
Swansea 


Ilaggin  &  Te vis 

Gci)r},'e  Atwood 

Day  State  Mill  Co 

L.  S.  Bowers 

J.  B.  Dickenson 

Crown  Point  G.  &  S.  M.  Co 
New  York  &  Nevada  M.  Co 

C.  S.  Wheeler 

Eclipse  M.  &  M.  Co 

Wm.  Sharon,  agent , 

W.  S.  Hobart 

Empire  M.  &  M.  Co 

Gold  Hill  Q.  M.  &  M.  Co  . . 

Gould  &  Curry  M.  Co 

Clark  &  Hearst 

Imperial  S.  M,  Co 

Charles  Land 

J.  V.  McCurdy 

O'Neale,  Rule  &  Glasier. . . 

O.  S.  Carvill 

Sharon  &  Co 

Greely  Bros 

M.  Livingston 

Crown  Point  G.  &  S.  M.  Co 

Rigby  &Co 

Rogers  S.  M.  Co 

W.  S.  Hobart 

A.  Bassett  &  Co 

C.  C.  Stevenson 

O'Neale,  Rule  &  Co 

Mason,  Carville  <Ss  Wright. 

Wm.  Kidd 

L.  A.  Booth 


Lowe  &  Fair 

Birdsall  &.  Carpenter. . . 

Cole&  Co 

Confidence  M.  Co 

Winters,  Kiistell  &  Co  , 

do do 

Daney  M.  it  M.  Co 


Lower  Gold  Hill 

Flowery  (Six  Mile  Creek)... 

American  Flat 

Crown  Poiut  Ravine,  (G.  H). 

Virginia 

Crown  Point  Ravine,  (G.  H). 

Gold  Hill 

Lower  Gold  Hill 

GoldHill 

Seven  Mile  Canon 

Virginia  

Lower  Gold  Hill 

GoldHill 

Seven  Mile  Canon 

Virginia 

Lower  Gold  Hill 

Seven  MileCaiion 

do 

Lower  Gold  Hill 

Virginia 

Lower  Ciold  Hill 

do 

do 

GoldHill 

American  Flat 

Seven  Mile  Canon 

Lower  Gold  Hill 

Seven  Mile  Canon 

GoldHill 

Lower  Gold  Hill 

Virginia 

GoldHill 

Seven  Mile  Canon 


Stevenson,  Winters  &  Co  .. 
Wheeler,  Hurd  &  Dunker.. 

John  Briggtf 

Wm.  Shai'on,  agent 

Wm.  Sharon,  agent 


Silver  City 

Dayton 

Johntowu 

Silver  City 

Dayton 

do 

3  miles  from  Davton 

Silver  City  ...." 

Below  Silver  City 

Carson  Kiver,  near  Dayton 

Johutown 

Carson  River,  near  Dayton  . . 
Silver  City 


ONealo,  Rulo&  Co 

Wm.  Sharon,  agent 

Imperial  M.  Co 

O'Neale,  Rule  &,Co 

Hirschman  &  Co 

OphirS.  M.  Co 

Heutsch  it  Berton 

Sheldon  &  Hickok 

Hunt.  Woodruff  &Co.. 

Charles  Schad 

W.  Sharon,  agent 


Carson  River,  near  Dayton 
do do 


do do 

do do 

Gold  Canon,  near  Dayton  . . 

Carson  River 

Below  Silver  City 

Silver  City 

Johntown 

Carson  River,  near  Dayton. 
Johntown 


18C2 


18H0 
18G0 
1860 


]8fi-2 
1860 


1863 
1862 


1862 
1861 


.1860 


(1) 
1861 


1863 
1865 
1864 
1861 
1861 
1864 
1863 
1864 
1862 
1861 
1861 
1861 
1861 

1861 
1864 
1861 
1862 
1865 
1864 
1861 
1861 
1861 
1861 
1862 


25 
20 
35 
25 
12 
8 
20 
16 
25 
15 
30 
33 
17 
100 
13 
30 
30 
'15 
18 
20 
50 
12 
40 
50 
12 
12 
28 
25 
.  5 
26 
35 
14 
30 


846 


30 

75 

5 

14 
20 
30 
20 
li 
20 
22 
18 
16 


/ 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 
Comstock  lode  during  the  year  1866 — Continued. 


357 


§ 
a 

u 
B. 
1> 
3 

t 
O 

o 

3 

PANS. 

0 
< 

■a 
a 
'C 

0 

0. 

S 

a 
c 

o 
O 

0 
a 

■3 

c 
X 

c 
a 

•ri  a 

n.  . 
3 

H 
3 

s 

0 

$1  75 

$050 

8 

4 

2 

7 

750 

26 

2 

14 

000 

250 

(1)   100 

(1)   100 

75 

350 

75 

1  400 

75 

(2)   30 

1 

750 

(2)    4 

(2).  4 

670 

6 

8 

1 

250 

600 

871 

1 

415 

300 

8 
0 

4 

2 

700 

CO   20 

2 

-IK) 

1  75 

300 
300 
205 

*900 

12 

6 
4 

1,000 

87i 

(I)   5 

24 

475 

39 

3 

:;;::::::::::::: 

3,500 

1  00 

200 
300 

(1)   24 
74 

3 

2 

400 

1,100 

10 
6 

5 

(2)   3 

(B)    1 

2 

1,000 

150 
75 

2 

600 

2 

500 

12 
15 

4 
(1)   5 

4 
(1)   6 

4 

4 

1,000 

1  75 

400 
150 
300 
400 
150 

2 

1,305 

1  00 

18 

1 

30O 

1  00 

12 

8 

5' 

1 

1.900 

70 

(2)   13 

2 

1 

1,350 

400 

3r,o 

i  25 

250 

2' 

56 

3 

1 

(1)    1 

850 

(1)4 

mi 

2 

TOO 

1  00 

36 

150 
300 
200 

10 

150 

0 

'i2)"i 

1 
4 

1 

1 
1 

600 

1  00 

11 

900 

1  00 

14 

400 

8 

4 

(B)    1 

1 

1,000 

5,380 
25  mUls. 

27 

305 

91 

93 

9 

101 

17 

4     8 

26,820 

2  00 

17 
20 
4 

4 

(2)  10 

2 

5 

m    2 

4 

2 
5 

3  00 

(B)    1 

1 

1,900 

3  00 

125 

1  75 

8 

3 

(3)   2 
3 

650 

3  50 

6 

500 

3  50 

8 

800 

3  25 

$15 

500 

2  00 

0 

40 

1  50 

6 

(1)   3 
5 
1 

1 
0 

550 

3  25 

10 

(1)    1 

1,100 

3  00 

18 

530 

4  25 

5 

0 

2 
6 

5u» 

I  50 

(1)    7 
24 

tooo 

3  50 

1 

(1)   7 
3 

500 

3  50 

fi 
14 

8 

3 
3 

5(X» 

3  00 

(1)  27 

(B)  (2)  1 

\-2,  400 

3  00 

500 

3  00 

2 

75 

4  25 

12 

6 
4 

1 

1,200 

2  00 

sro 

1  75 

550 

3  00 

1 

550 

3  00 

7 
(1)  22 

3 

500 

2  75 

;::::::::: 

3 

600 

*Soon  will  be  1,200  per  month. 


t750  tong  per  month ;  October  15,  1866. 
{Now  2,800  tons. 


358  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

Tabular  list -of  mills  from  mines  crushing  ore  on  the 


Names 


Owners. 


Location. 


LYON  COUNTY.-Con, 

Trench 

Weston's  (1) 

Wegton'g  (1) 

Total 27 


ORMSBY  COUNTY. 

Bnmswck 

Carson , 

Merrimac  (1) 

Mexican  (1) 

Santiago 

Sierra  .  ." , 

Vivian 

Yellow  Jacket 

Total 8 


WASHOE  COUNTY. 

Atchison 

Buckeye 

Manhattan  (I) 

Minnesota 

Kapa 

New  York  &  Washoe 
Ophir  Reduction 

Works  (l.> 

Temelec 

*  Wanhoc  Valley  Re- 

''uctioQ  Works. 

Total 9 


Joseph  Trench. 
Wm.  Weston.. 
Wm.  Weston . . 


Williams  &  Sharon 
W.  Sharon,  agent... 
Rice  &  Yerrington.. 

Alsop  &  Co 

Santiago  M.  Co 


Beach  &  Harrington  . 

P.  Frothingham 

Yellow  Jacket  M.  Co. 


Savage  Co 

Lambert  &  Co 

New  York  &  Nevada  Co  . 

Savage  M.  Co 

James  Hill  &  Co 

New  York  &.  Washoe  Co. 
Ophir  M.  Co 


Baldwin  &  Bonner. 
J.  H.  Dall 


Silver  City  , 
Johntown  . 
do  .... 


1861 
1862 
1862 


1  mile  below  Empire 

3  miles  went  of  Carson 

IJ  mile  below  Empire 

Empire 

4  miles    below    Empire,   on 
Carson  river. 

3  miles  west  of  Carson 

3i  miles  below  Empire 

Empire 


1863 
1862 
1662 
1862 
1862 


1860 
1864 


Washoe 

do  .... 

do  .... 

do  .... 

G.ilena 

Washoe 

Franktown . 


Washoe 

Friuiktown . 


1862 
1863 
1863 


1863 
1862 


1865 
1863 


64  li 

41 


637i 


308 


9i 
18 
9 
9 


18 
9 
8J 


A 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 
Comstock  lode  during  the  year  1866. — Continued. 


359 


a 

o 

a 

u 

V 

B. 

u 

a 

t 

o 

i 

3 

TANS. 

OB 

£ 

o 

< 

a 

•a 

a 

O 

Cost  per  ton  hauled. 

O 

i 

C 

B 
> 

>>  . 

•■*  2 
a  3 

3 

5 

$1  75 
2  fX) 

800 

9 

5 

1 

700 

2  00 

76 

51 

70 
9 

49 

24 

69 
5 

27 

1 

3 

1 

61 

64 

26 

i  00 

8 

4 

1 

600 

4 

15 

1 

(1)      6 

10 

1,350 

12 
4 

*1  2W 

14 

9 

(B)        1 

1,100 

3  75 

8 

4 
15 

1 
o 

(1)          1 

o 

750 

30 

2  300 

4 

37 

46 

9 

38 

13 

2 

3 

m 

10 

8 

8 

4 

1 
1 

....„ 

i  200 

TIT 

700 

8 
6 

1,300 

• 

12 

] 

1 

1,000 

16 

8 

1 

1,  30(1 

t450 

12 

(1)      3 

800 

6 



(2)         2 

'1,725 

48 

22 

33 

5 

5 

o 

■B_ 

'  By  wet  process  1,000,  and  dry  260  tons.  tFull  capacity  750  tons. 

:Wet,  1,050;  dry,  675  tons. 


360  RESOURCES    OF   STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 


NOTES  ON  MILLS. 

STOREY  COUNTY. 

Bowers  (1) — Paid  this  for  5  months  only  ;  has  been  idle  four  months  ;  new  running,  with 
own 'water;  (2)  5-foot  pans. 

Central  (1) — To  Virginia  and  Gold  Hill  Water  Companies;  also,  pays  $ to  Ophir 

Company. 

(2) — Hepburn  and  Peterson's,  working"500  tons  per  month  wet ;  four  furnaces  and  six 
barrels,  working  170  tons  dry. 

Crown  Point  ( 1 ) — Just  dismantled  ;  engine  used  to  drain  mine. 

Comet  (1) — Been  idle  for  seven  months  ;  just  started  again. 

Douglas  (I) — 10-inch  cylinder,  30-inch  stroke,  26  plain  pans. 

Empire  No.  I  (1) — Increasing  stamps  to  21 ;  capacity  to  be  40  tons  per  day;  to  employ 
10  men,  27  Wakeleo  pans. 

Empire  No.  2(1 ) — Concentrators  and  two  stamps  for  breaking. 

Empire  State  ( I) — 4-foot  pans. 

Gold  Hill  (1)— 6-foot  tubs. 

Heosier  State  (1) — With  steam  chambers. 

Land's  (B) — Throughout  the  table  designates  Blake's  breakers. 

Mariposa  (1) — Also  one  prospecting  stamp;  (2)  large. 

Marysville  (1) — 30  5-foot  plain  pans. 

Pacific  (1) — Large. 

Petaluvia  (1) — Stamps  being  increased  to  16  ;  capacity  to  26  tons  per  day;  men  to  11 ; 
wood  to  live  cords ;  adding  eight  improved  Wheeler  pans,  four  settlers  and  one  agitator. 

Piute  {[) — 8-foot  settlers. 

Rhode  Island  (1) — 18-inch  cylinder;  (2)  7-foot  pans. 

Rigbtfs  (1) — One  extra  pan  and  settler  for  tailings  and  one  barrel. 

Rogers^ s  (1) — Not  running  for  four  months. 

Saphire  ( 1 ) — Wheeler. 

Simcooc  (1) — Improved.  ' 

Stevenson  ( 1 ) — 8|-inch  cylinder ;  (2)  Rowland's  rotary  battery ;  can  crush  seven  tons  and 
amalgamate  five  tons  per  day  ;  (3)  Small. 

Succor  (1) — 24  Wakelee  flat-bottomed  pans. 

Summit  (1) — Burnt  and  rebuilt  in  1863;  (2)  small  pan  and  settler.  ' 

LYON  COUNTY. 

Birdsall  (1)— Mill,  $110,000;  ditch,  $40,000;  total,  $150,000. 

Carpenter  (2) — Large-sized  Wheeler. 
.    Dayton  No.  1  (1 )— Four  of  these  for  prospecting ;  (2)  8-foot  settlers  ;  (3)  Enox. 
.    Dayton  No.  2  (1) — Two  roasting  furnaces. 

Eastern  Slope  (l) — Large. 

Eureka  (1) — Break  80  tons  per  day. 

G    C.  Reduction  IVorks  {\) — 5-foot  pans. 

Imperial  Rock  Pt.  (1) — 7-foot  tubs  and  settlers  ;  (2)  breaker,  large  size. 

Phanix  No.  1  ( 1 ) — Eight  tubs  and  Wheeler  pans. 

Pioneer  (1) — 15  tubs  and  Wheeler  pans. 

Sacramento  (1) — 12  7-foot  iron  pans. 

Stcansea  (1) — fi-foot  tubs  and  one  prospecting  battery  and  pan, 
■    Trench  (1) — 16  flat  7-foot  pans,  one  excelsior  and  two  Wheeler  and  Randall  pans.  ' 

Weston^s  (Steam) — (1) — Worked  but  about  1,000  tons  of  Comstock  ore  this  year;  hauling 
about  $3  per  ton. 

IFeston's  (Water)—  ( 1 )— Six  flat-bottomed  pans ;  has  run  but  little  this  year  for  want  of  water 

ORMSBY  COUNTY. 

Merrimac  (1) — Also,  one  prospecting  battery  and  pan  ;  (2)  large. 
Mexican  ( 1 )— Four  farnaces  and  10  barrels. 
''ivian  (1) — Hanscom's. 

WASHOE  COUNTY. 

Manhattan  (1) — 16  pans. 

Ophir  (1 ) — Working  but  36  stamps — Freiberg  process — nine  furnaces. 

Reduction  Works — 24  amalgamating  barrels. 

Temetec  (]) — Large. 

*  Washoe  Galley  (1)— Wheeler  12-feet  breast ;  full  capacity  about  300  horse-power. 

Reduction  Works — 40  stamps  used  for  Freiberg  process,  and  20  for  wet;  eight  furnaces  and 
2  0  barrels  for  dry  process  ;  four  Wheeler  and  Randall's  pans  for  wet ;  four  more  Varney  pans 
to  be  introduced  ;  (2)  Blake's  improved  saw. 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.'  361 

Process  of  Reduction, — The  ores  from  the  Comstock  lode  are  probably  the 
most  docile  silver  oren  found  in  Nevada,  and  the  ])r()eess  used  for  their  reduction 
is  of  the  simplest  kind.  After  crushing-  by  the  stamps,  the  large  boulders  being 
Ikst  reduced  to  a  moderate  size  by  hand  labor  or  by  lUake's  i)atent  (n-nsluMS,  the 
material  a^  it  passes  from  the  battery  is  collected  and  settled  in  tanks  to  avoid 
as  much  as  j)()ssible  the  risk  of  fine  ])artieles  passing  off  with  the  supeiiluous 
water.  In  spite  of  all  precautions  much  loss  is  sustained  from  this  soiu'ce,  expe- 
rience showing  that  the  most  impalpable  of  the  slum  is  the  richest  in  proportion. 
Out  of  40,432  tons  of  ore  worked  at  the  Gould  &  Curry  mill  4,431  tons  were 
lost  in  this  manner. 

From  the  tanks  the  erusliod  ore  is  passed  to  the  iron  grinding-  pans^  a  descrip- 
tion of  whicli  will  be  found  in  preliminary  report,  pages  7G  and  77.  The  cliarges 
vary  from  500  to  1,500  pounds,  according  to  the  character  and  capacity  of  the  pans 
used.  In  these  pans  the  ore  is  ground  from  lour  to  six  hours,  being  in  that  lime 
reduced  to  an  almost  impalpable  powder.  The  mode  of  treatment  varies  con- 
siderably, some  mill  men  using  a  variety  of  chemicals,  such  as  sulphate  of  iron, 
muriatic  and  sulphuric  acids,  &c.,  while  others  dispense  with  them  almost  entirely. 
Their  object  is  to  assist  the  reduction  of  the  silver  in  combinati(m,  but  nmch 
uncertainty  exists  as  to  their  benoiicial  operation.  Each  charge  is  invariably 
mixed  with  a  considerable  amount  of  salt,  varying  with  the  richness  of  the  ore. 
Towards  the  end  of  the  process  the  quicksilver  is  usually  added,  the  niullers  of 
the  pans  being  at  the  same  time  slightly  raised  to  prevent  the  grinding  or  "flour- 
ing" of  the  mercury.  After  a  sufficient  time  has  elapsed  to  allow  a  thorough 
amalgamation,  the  pulp  is  thinned  by  the  addition  of  water,  and  revolved  in  such 
a  way  as  to  allow  the  amalgam  to  settle  to  the  bottom.  For  economy  of  time,  this 
is  usually  accomplished  in  large  vats  called  "  sev,tlers,"  especially  adajjted  for  that 
purpose.  The  refuse  matter  is  then  drawn  off  and  ti'cated  by  various  methods  of  con- 
centration, to  be  spoken  of  afterwards.  This  process  is  used  only  for  second  atid 
third  class  ore,  it  being  found  better  to  employ  the  Freiburg  process  for  fu"st-class 
ores.  The  Central  mill  in  Virginia^  and  the  Washoe  reduction  works  and  Ophir 
mill  in  Washoe  valley  are  the  only  ones  adapted  to  this  method,  the  amoxmt 
of  ore  requiring  this  treatment  being  but  a  small  percentage  of  the  entire  product 
of  the  lode. 

Some  mill  men  amalgamate  in  the  battery  while  the  ore  is-  being  craishcd,  but 
the  practice  is  not  by  any  means  universal.  In  fact,  the  treatment  of  ores  is  in 
a  great  measure  empirical,  but  little  attention  being  given  in  Nevada  to  analyti- 
cal chemistry,  and  the  adaptation  of  the  working  processes  to  the  results  devel- 
oped. In  this  connection  the  following  assays  or  rather  analyses  of  Comstock 
ores  may  be  found  of  interest : 

Ophir  mine — a  first-class  ore  and  metal  produced  therefrom  by  the  Freiburg  process,  by 
George  Attwood. 

Gangue •. 63.380  '    .00 

Silver 2.78G  41.51 

Gold 059  1.58 

Lead 4.151  39.01 

Antimony 087  .00 

Zinc ". 14.455  .50 

Sulphur 7.919  .00 

Copper 1.596  17.04 

Iron 5.463  .17 

99.  bdG    99.  87 


362 


RESOURCES    OF   STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 


'  Ore  from  California  mine,  Virginia.     No.  1  made  in  London;  No.  2  at  Swansea. 

No,  1.     No.  2. 

Silica 67.5  65.783 

Sulphur 8.75  11.35 

Copper 1.30  1.31 

Iron 2.25  2.28 

Silver L75  1.76 

Gold 059  .57 

Zinc 12.85  11.307 

Lead • - -. 5.75  6. 145 

Loss .25 

100.00     100.00 


Yellow  Jacket  ores,  second-class  ;  by  W.  F.  Rickard,  F.  C.  S. 

White.                         Brown.  Mixed. 

Gold 005=430  03        ,00l=|;7  52  .002=$10  04 

Silver 150=62  83.     .050=2199  .157=65  98 

Iron 575                     2.800  1.230 

Lead Traces.                  Traces.  Traces. 

Copper Traces.                  Traces.  Traces. 

Sulphur 693                       .160  .457 

Lime Traces.                .000  Traces. 

Silica - 98.310                   96.560  97.8.50 

Loss 267                       .429  .304 

100.000  $92  86    100.000  $29  51  100.000    $76  02 


The  diflFerence  in  the  composition  of  these  ores  is  worthy  of  notice.  The 
Ophir  and  California  mines  are  situated  in  the  northern  part  of  the  explored 
jiyrtion  of  the  lode,  where  a  much  larger  percentage  of  base  metal  is  encoun- 
tered than  elsewhere.  These  ores  are  evidently  unsuited  to  the  simple  process 
just  described.  The  analysis  of  Yellow  Jacket  ores  presents  a  fair  sample  of  the 
general  composition  of  second  and  third-class  rock  from  the  Comstock  mines.  It 
will  be  seen  at  a  glance  that  the  amount  of  base  metal  present  is  extremely  small, 
the  ore  consisting  almost  entirely  of  sulphuret  of  silver  and  kon  and  native 
metals. 

Cost  of  Reduction. — The  following  details  taken  from  the  published  reports 
of  mining  companies  show  a  material  diminution  from  the  cost  in  former  years, 
due  in  great  measure  to  improvements  in  machiueiy,  systematization  of  labor, 
and  increased  knowledge  of  the  method  of  reduction  : 

Savage  mine,  average  for  12  months  ending  July  1,  1867 $14  04 

Savage  mine,  for  the  previous  year —  16  74 

Hale  &  Norcross  mine,  average  fof  12  months  ending  March,  1867 14  26 

Gould  &  Curry  mine,  average  for  12  months  ending  November,  1866 13  30 

The  following  table,  from  the  report  of  the  Gould  &  Cuny  Company,  will 
show  the  relative  proportion  of  the  various  items.  It  will  be  noticed  that  the 
total  cost  per  ton  is  less  than  the  average  given  above.  This  arises  fi'om  the  fact 
that  the  company  had  ores  worked  at  custom  mills,  the  cost  of  which  was  greater 
than  at  their  own  mill  as  given  below : 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY   MOUNTAINS.  363 

Cost  j^'^f  foil  in  detail  of  ore  reduced  at  the  Gould  Sf  Curry  mill. 


3 

•a 
o 

.S 
1 

o. 

8 

o   ■ 
la 

"3 

"3 

u 

"3 

•o 

•3 
o 

$0  71  33 

$0  71.33 
4  61.21 

0  58.  88 

0  41. :« 

$3  97.  84 

$0  12.  49 

0  03.  :i:i 

0  10.3!) 
0  10.  96 
0  69.41 
0  90 

0  44.  65 

0  65.  98 
0  76.  81 
0  84.10 

'o'oi'es 

$0  20. 85 
0  59.36 

0  97.  22 

$6  43.  50  *0  27.  06 

$0  86.  59 

3  08.  96 

1  53.41 

1 

0  90 

1 

Totals    .  . 

3  90. 42 

4  02.  49 

0  80. 21 

0  43.  50 

0  27.  06 

0  86. 59 

1  96.  48 

12  26  78 

(rroat  as  has  been  the  "decrease  in  the  price  of  reducing  ores  since  the  cora- 
mencemcnt  of  operations  in  Virginia,  the  construction  of  a  raih'oad  into  Virginia 
from  any  point  on  the  Truchee  river  (where  fuel  is  abundant)  would  result  in  a 
still  further  reduction.  In  this  connection  attention  is  called  to  the  follow- 
ing figui'es  from  the  last  report  of  the  State  surveyor  general : 

STOREY  COUNTY. 

Tlic  table  contains  a  list  of  33  mills,  all  steam,  estimated  to  have  cost  $2,000,000,  with  an 
assessed  value  for  o2  of  $953,705,  say,  for  the  33,  $970,000,  containing  007  stamps,  with  a 
crushing  capacity  of  846  tons  per  day,  nearly  1.4  tons  per  stamp,  consuming  IHO-J  cords  of 
weed  per  day,  average  cost  about  $14  per  cord  ;  total,  $2,527,  or  nearly  $3  per  ton,  and  about 
$4  1")  per  stamp. 

Twenty-four  mills  pay  the  Virginia  «fe  Gold  Hill  Water  Company  $5,280  per  month  for 
water ;  add  water  tax,  $130  per  mouth  ;  total,  $5,410,  cost  of  water  per  month  for  24  mills, 
which  contain  .399  stamps,  with  a  tsushing  capacity  of  562  tons,  or  14,612  tons  per  month 
of  26  days.     Cost  per  ton  of  ore  worked  for  water,  37  cents,  or  52  cents  per  stamp. 

Aggregate  distance  of  33  mills  from  the  mines  about  48J  miles ;  average  distance  about 
H  mile,  (for  custom  mills  the  distance  is  estimated,  with  one  or  two  exceptions,  from  the 
divide  between  Virginia  and  Gold  Hill;)  and  the  average  cost  of  hauling  is  about  $1^  per 
ton,  ranging  from  70  cents  to  $2. 

846  tons  per  day  for  26  days  would  equal — 

21,996  tons,  at  $3  for  wood $65,988  00 

*2],966  ton.s,  at  37  cents  for  water 8, 127  42 

21,966  tons,  at  $1 J  for  hauling 27,457  50 

Total  per  month  for  wood,  water  and  hauling 101,572  92 

■or  $4  62  per  ton. 
LYON  COUNTY. 

Total  mills,  27.  Steam,  16;  water,  8;  steam  and  water,  3.  Estimated  cost  of  15  steam, 
7  water,  3  steam  and  water  mills— $1,464,000. 

The  27  mills  contain  424  stamps,  from  which  deduct  4  used  for  prospecting,  and  ive  ha^e 
420  stamps,  with  a  crushing  capacity  of  641|  tons  per  day;  from  which  deduct  1  mill  with 
10  stamps,  capacity  7  tons,  which  has  run  but  little  during  the  year;  also  1  mill  with  15 
stamps,  capacity  25  tons,  which  has  crushed  but  about  1,000  tons  during  the  year  of  Comstock 
ore;  and  we  have  25  mills  with  395  stamps,  with  a  capacity  of  6I9|  tons  per  day,  or  1.57 
tons  per  stamp  ;  using  1(10  cords  of  wood  per  day,  costing  about  $10  per  cord.  Total,  $1,000 : 
equal  to  $1  61  per  ton,  or  $2  53  per  stamp. 

The  aggregate  distance  of  25  mills  from  the  mines  is  about  135  miles:  average  distance 
5.4  miles,  and  average  cost  for  hauling  about  $2  75,  ranging  from  $1  50  to  $4  25. 

25  mills  employ  315  men,  or  one  wan  for  1.97  tons. 

619^  tons  per  day  for  26  days  equal  16,107  tons  ;  add  for  Weston'st  steam  mill  93  tons  per 
monthly  average;  total  per  month,  16,200  tons. 

16,200  tons,  at  $2  75  per  ton  for  hauling $44,. 550  00 

16,200  tons,  at  $1  61  per  ton  for  wood 2(),082  00 

Total  j)er  month  for  wood  and  hauling 70,632  00 

or  $4  36  per  ton. 


364  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

ORMSBY  COUNTY 

Six  water,  and  two  steam  and  water  mills.  Estimated  cost,  $825,000;  with  170  stamps, 
crushing  capacity,  280  tons  per  day,  or  1.G5  tons  per  stamp;  aggregate  distance  from  mines, 
80  miles;  average  distance,  10  miles;  average  cost  lor  hauling,  say  $4  per  ton;  ll|  cord 
of  wood  at,  say,  $S  per  cord,  $'J4,  or  33^  cents  per  ton.  or  55  cents  per  stamp. 

280  tons  per  day  for  26  days  equal — 

G,7S0  tons,  at  $4  for  hauling $27,120 

(),780  tons,  at  33^  cents  for  wood 2, 2()0 

Total  per  month  for  wood  and  hauling 29,380 

or  $4  33  per  ton. 

WASHOE  COUNTY. 

Five  steam,  and  four  steam  and  water  mills ;  estimated  cost,  $794,000 ;  containing  261 
stamps ;  crushing  capacity,  308  tons  per  day,  or  1.18  tons  per  stamp,  consuming  about  82 
cords  of  wood  at,  say,  $5  per  cord ;  total,  $410,  or  $1^  per  ton,  or  $1  57  per  stamp. 

Average  distance  of  mills  from  mines,  say  14  miles,  and  average  cost  of  hauling  $4  50 
per  ton. 

308  tons  per  day  for  26  days  equal — 

8,008  tons,  at  $4  50  per  ton  for  hauling $.36,036  00 

S,0U8  tons,  at  $1^  per  ton  for  wood 10,677  33 

Total  per  month  for  wood  and  hauling , 46, 713  33 

or  $5  83  per  ton. 

From  these  tables  it  appears  wbcn  wood  is  wortli  in  Virginia  $14  per  cord,  tlie 
cost  of  this  item  per  ton  of  ore  reduced  is  about  $3.  Any  raih-oad  could  put 
wood  down  at  the  same  mills  for  S9  per  cord,  with  great  advantage  to  the  com- 
pany. This  would  be  a  saving  of  $5  per  cord,  or  about  $1  07  per  ton.  Making 
this  alteration  in  the  details  of  Storey  county  mills,  the  cost  of  reduction  per  ton 
for  the  items  of  wood,  water  and  hauling,  the  total  would  be  $3  55  per  ton,  or 
Si  cents  less  than  the  most  favorable  average  results  at  mills  working  Comstock 
ores,  or  $2  02  less  than  the  most  unfavorable.  Competent  judges  estimate  that 
})y  taking  these  ores  to  the  Truckee  river  the  total  cost  of  reduction  per  ton 
Avould  not  exceed  about  $9  or  $1(). 

Percextage  of  Yield  and  Loss. — Experience  has  shown  that  for  the  ordi- 
nary ores  of  the  Comstock,  Go  per  cent,  of  the  assay  value  of  the  ore  is  about  the 
proportion  which  can  be  extracted  by  the  process  in  use,  and  custom  mills  are 
re(pured  to  return  at  least  that  proportion.  CareM  assays  are  made  daily  of  the 
ore  as  it  is  raised  from  the  mine,  it  being  customary  to  take  a  handful  of  ore  from 
each  car  load  as  it  is  brought  to  the  surface,  and  place  it  in  a  box  placed  near  the 
shaft  for  the  purpose.  Several  times  during  the  day  the  contents  of  this  sample 
box  are  thoroughly  mixed  and  several  assays  made  of  them ;  the  average  of 
which  will  show  very  nearly  the  quality  of  ore  being  raised  at  any  particular 
time.  In  some  cases  the  value  of  the  ore  is  ascertained  by  sampling  the  con- 
tents of  each  wagon  load  as  it  leaves  the  mine,  in  the  manner  just  described. 
])uring  the  process  of  reduction,  assays  are  taken  of  the  pulp  as  it  leaves  the 
batteries,  which  of  coiu'se  from  the  intimate  admixture  of  the  ore  will  be  more 
reliable,  but  if  amalgamation  for  iVee  metal  in  the  batteries  is  adopted,  as  at  some 
mills,  the  millnvm  cvan  gain  but  little  idea  of  what  he  is  doing,  as  the  quantit}^ 
of  metal  saved  in  the  batteries  is  an  unknown  item,  to  be  ascertained  only  when 
a  thorough  clean  up  is  made.  To  avoid  mniecessary  detention  from  this  source, 
which  requires  a  stoppage  of  all  machinery,  this  is  not  done  much  oftener  than 
about  every  two  weeks.  The  following  tables'are  valuable  in  this  connection. 
Tlie  statistics  from  the  Hale  and  Norcross  mine  may  be  taken  as  a  fair  illustra- 
tion of  the  average  results  of  milling  operations  in  this  section.  It  will  be  noticed 
that  the  percentage  of  gold  lost  is  small  compared  with  the  silver,  showing  the 
former  metal  to  be  present  chiefly  in  an  uncombined  form.  The  table  suggests 
some  important  questions.     It  shows  that  we  are  losing  annually  about  35  per 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


365 


cent,  of  tlio  valno  of  the  ore  mined  from  the  Comstock.  Tlio  yield  of  Lullion 
la*;t  year  was  in  round  lunnbers,  say,  $15,000,000,  whieli  would  show  the  loss  to 
have  been  about  88,000.000.  The  enormous  extent  of  this  loss  is  well  understood, 
but  so  far  no  feasible  means  of  lessenin<j  it  without  diuiinishlng  the  net  profits 
on  the  result  have  been  suggested,  or  at  least  shown  to  be  practicable.  Excep- 
tional lots  of  ore  will  work  nearer  to  the  assay  value,  but  only  in  rare  instances. 
How  small  a  percentage  of  the  metal  which  escapes  the  mill  is  saved  by  future 
ojierations  will  appear  under  the  next  heading.  The  great  difficulty  to  contend 
with  lies  in  the  cost  of  labor  and  fuel.  The  avwage  yield  of  all  ores  worked  at 
the  present  time  does  not  pi'obably  exceed  $35  per  ton,  equivalent  to  a  loss  of 
SIS  90  per  ton,  supposing  $35  to  represent  Go  per  cent,  of  the  assay  value  of 
the  ores.  If  by  using  the  Freiburg  process  we  saved  SO  per  cent.,  the  average 
yield  per  ton  would  be  $43  12,  or  an  advance  of  $8  12,  which  wotild  not  cover 
the  additional  cost  of  labor  and  fuel.  The  price  charged  for  treatment  by  the 
Freiburg  process  in  this  district  is  $45  per  ton,  with  a  guarantee  of  only  80  per 
cent,  its  non-applicability  to  low'  grade  ores  is  at  once  apparent,  the  cost  of 
reduction  being  greater  than  the  average  yield  of  the  ores.  To  make  it  avail- 
able, it  is  evident  that  the  additional  15  per  cent,  of  the  assay  value  saved  must 
cover  the  increased  cost  of  reduction,  which  is,  say,  $31,  so  that  it  will  prove  val- 
uable only  when  the  ores  are  worth  $200  per  ton  and  upwards.  In  practice  a 
lower  grade  than  that  may  be  adopted,  it  being  found  by  experience  that  the 
percentage  of  loss  in  working  ores  by  the  net  process  increases  with  the  greater 
value  of  the  mineral.  Under  these  circumstances  we  must  look  rather  to  improve- 
ments on  the  present  modes  of  treating  the  ''tailings''  from  the  mill  by  concen- 
tration or  othei-wise. 

HALE    AMD   NORCROSS    MINE. 

Tahle  sJioicing  the  assay  value  of  the  ore  extracted  during  twelve  montJis  oper- 
ations, also  the  yield  and  loss  per  ton,  the  percentage  of  yield  and  loss,  and 
the  entire  results. 


Assay  value  of  ores. 

Yield. 

Loss. 

Ore. 

a 

a 
o 

u 

3 

> 

03 

"2 
> 

O 

d 
o 

u 

"3 
o 

d 
o 

1 

o 

u 

"3 
S 

First  six  monthe— 

Gold 

Tons. 

Lbs. 

m  39 
40  79 

$30r>  582  W 

son  n-T 

85. 8 

$263, 043  90 
967  764  65 

$3  46 
19  50 

14  2 

*4r?  r,r?o  m 

Silver 

512,695  43   21  30 

47.  8'245'  130  78 

' 

Total 

12,  571 

1,950 

65  18 

819,478  33   42  42 

64. 7     530,  8C8  55 

22  96 

35.  3  288,  669  73 

Second  six  months — 

Gold 

29  18 
51  CA 

468,  734  00   24  90 
820  524  11    ?>«  49 

85.3 
51.2 

400,016  18 
424,  395  07 

4  28 

M  fi  *;fl  717  wo 

Silver 

25  22  •!«  ftiill.V  i'JS  44 

' 

Total 

16  CC4 

30 

80  %i 

1.298,258  11 

51  32 

03.5     824,411  85 

29  50 

36.5  473,840  26 

Total  for  12  months- 
Gold  

27  07 
46  88 

775  310  90 

oT  ^^ 

85.  5     663,  060  08 
51.6     692,100  32 

3  92 

14  ."^112  2.'i6  82 

Silver 

1  34"'^'  419  54 ■  "-i  I' 

"•■^  7li48  4  650  259  22 

Total 

28, 635 

1  980 

47  32 

og  63  V,   itTfi'T  ."iiri  04 

XOTF„— This  table  ig  copied  from  records  on  file  In  the  ofiBce  of  the  company.  The  original,  prepared  by 
Mr.  Thompson,  wa.s  marked  out  to  six  places  of  decimals  for  the  cents.  The  omission  of  these  will  account 
for  its  apparent  trifling  discrepancies. 


366  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

Gould  and  Cuert  Mike. — Table  showing-  the  average  value  of  the  ore 
reduced  during  the  year  ending  November  30,  1866,  the  yield  at  the  mill  and 
the  loss  per  ton.     (G.  &  C.  annual  report  for  186C  :) 

Avera<re  assay  per  tou. |i43  95 

Average  yield  per  ton,  75  per  cenf 33  02 

Average  loss  per  ton,  25  per  cent 10  93 

Total  value  of  ore  as  per  assay $1,582,247  43 

Bullion  produced : 

Gold $363,803  92 

Silver 825,277  85 

1,189,081  77 

Total  loss,  about  25  per  cent 393,165  66 


Note. — This  table  does  not  show  the  entire  yield  of  the  mine  for  the  year,  large  quantities 
of  ore  being  reduced  at  "custom  mills."  The  statement  refers  only  to  oies  reduced  at  the 
large  mill  owned  by  the  Gould  and  Curry  Mining  company. 

Concentration. — Concentration  is  employed  only  in  the  treatment  of  the 
"tailings,"  or  sands  from  which  all  the  metal  has  been  extracted  which  could  be 
saved  in  the  mill.  The  tailings  are  usually  tiirncd  into  the  nearest  watercourse, 
(many  mills  being  so  situated  as  to  have  no  facilities  for  the  constraction  of  reser- 
voirs,) and  the  right  to  use  them  rented  to  other  parties.  ]\Iany  plans  have  been 
suggested  for  their  concentration,  but  the  one  in  general  use  is  extremely  simple. 
It  consists  merely  in  passing  the  sands  through  shallow  sluice  boxes,  the  bottoms 
of  wliich  are  covered  with  thick  blankets.  The  fall  of  these  sluices  is  consider- 
aV)le  to  prevent  packing  of  the  sands,  but  the  stream  of  water  ir  regulated  so  as 
to  cover  the  blankets  with  a  thin  sheet  only.  In  this  Avay  the  heavy  metalliferous 
particles  are  retained  in  passing  over  the  rough  smface  of  the  blankets,  the  lighter 
sands  passing  oii"  in  the  water.  After  a  sluice  box  has  been  running  several 
hours,  the  water  is  turned  off,  the  blankets  washed  in  a  tank  of  water,  and 
returned  to  their  places.  This  constitutes  the  entire  treatment.  When  the 
tank  is  nearly  full  of  tailings,  it  is  emptied  and  the  resulting  mass  considerably 
increased  in  value  by  the  elimination  of  waste  sands,  is  ground  and  amalgamated 
in  the  manner  already  described.  Latterly  this  has  become  quite  an  extensive 
branch  of  om'  mining  business,  and  is  said  to  yield  a  good  return  on  the  capital 
en)ployed. 

The  following  items  are  taken  from  the  report  of  the  sui-veyor  general  for  1866  : 

Details  of  blanket  washings  in  Six'Tnile  canon  for  1866  and  1867. 

Number  of  mills  discharging  tailings  into  the  canon,  12. 

Probable  number  of  tons  worked  during  the  year  1866,  100,000. 

Estimated  value  of  tailings  saved  and  worked  in  1866,  $72,000. 

Saving  per  ton  of  ore  worked,  72  cents. 

Lengtli  of  sluices,  22,000  feet. 

Cost  of  sluices,  $20,000. 

Estimated  value  of  tailings  saved  and  worked  in  1867,  $164,000. 

Saving  per  ton  of  ore  worked  in  1867,  $1  (')4. 

Average  value  of  tailing  saved  per  tou,  $20. 

These  items  show  only  a  portion  of  tlio  operations.  The  total  value  of  all 
tailings  saved  in  this  manner  was  probably  about  $200,000  for  1866,  which  will 
1)0  doubled  for  1867.  These  figures  can  only  be  considered  approximations,  but 
they  serve  to  show  how  small  a  percentage  of  the  gross  loss  is  saved  by  these 
means,  and  how  large  a  field  is  yet  open  for  improvement. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


367 


SECTION    XVII. 

YIELD  OF  THE  MINES,  NET  PROFITS,  ETC. 

The  follmving  tables,  taken  from  the  circular  of  tlie  Sun  Francisco  Stock  and 
Exchange  Board,  will  be  found  of  hiterest  in  this  connection : 

Tabic  of  the  prodifds  of  some  of  the  principal  mines  in  Virginia  and  Gold  HiU; 
also  showing  dividends  ])aid  and  assessments  levied  on  the  same  during  the  year 
1S66. 


Company. 


Lady  Bryan 

Daney 

Sierra  Nevada 

Ophir 

Gould  &  Cunry 

Savage  

Halo  &  Norcross  . . . . 

ClioUar-Potosi 

Bullion 

Exchequer 

Alpha 

Imperial 

Empire 

Bacon 

Confidence 

Yellow  Jacket 

Crown  Point 

Belcher 

Overman 

Baltimore  American. 


Total. 


Bullion  produced. 


$450,  000 
1,  605,  2-28 
1,805,800 
1,199, 7()8 
848, 750 


910,187 
486,  778 


303,  920 
2,  310,  000 
1,  313,  357 


11, 261, 741 


Dividends. 


$252,  OOO 
360,  000 
350,  000 


176, 000 
32, 400 


390,  000 
2:J4,  000 


1,794,400 


Assessments. 


?1 5,  000 
26,  000 
55,  500 

184, 800 


175,  000 
32,000 
144, 560 


18,000 

78,  OCO 

180, 000 


143,  520 

208, 000 

13. 000 


1,273,3^0 


Production  of  bullion  by  Storey  county  during  the  year  ending  December  31,  1S66. 

January $316,430  43 

February 971,643  46 

March 1,001,577  65 

April l,U52,7r)9  89 

May l,]4r),293  41 

Juno 1,'J44,297  54 

July 1.193,741  56 

August 1,420,902  35 

September 1,169,391  46 

October 1,409,2-^0  00 

November 1,327,985  00 

December 1,348,828  80 

Total 14,167,071  55 


In  United  States  cnn-ency  this  represents  a  value  of  $18,072,934,  on  which 
federal  taxes  were  paid  as  follows  : 

From  January  to  July,  inclusive,  -^  of  one  per  cent,  on  $9,402,062 

From  August  to  December,  inclusive,  \  of  one  per  cent,  on  $8,670,872 


Total  tax 


$56, 412  37 
43,354  36 

99,766  73 


368 


RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 


Production  of  bullion  in  Storey  county  for  the  first  seven  months  of  1867. 

January $1,330,832  80 

February 1,233,811  63 

March 979,786  78 

April 1,567,427  60 

May 1,784,724  25 

June 1,594,794  22 

Total 8,501,377  28 

July :...  1,613,559  75 

Total 10,1]4,93T  03 


XoTE. — The  montli  of  March  was  characterized  by  the  most  severe  snow-stoiTa 
which  has  3'et  been  experienced  in  Virginia.  The  roads  were  nearly  impassable 
for  two  weeks — to  such  an  extent,  indeed,  that  firewood  rose  from  816  to  845  per 
cord,  and  was  scarcely  obtainable  even  at  that  price.  The  mills  situated  at  some 
distance  from  the  mines  were  entirely  cut  off  from  new  supplies  of  ore,  and  reduced 
only  such  reserve  as  had  been  accumulated;  hence  the  marked  diminution  in  the 
monthly  production  of  bullion. 

Table  oj"  assessments  levied  on  Comstock  mines  during  the  first  six  months  of  1867. 


Company. 


B.iltimore  American 

Belcher 

Bullion 

California 

Conlideuce 

Ophir 

Overman 

Sides  

Sierra  Nevada 


1st  quarter. 


$5,200 
28,  080 
25, 000 


Total  for  six  months 


39,  000 
84,  OCO 
32,  000 
1,500 
12,  000 


22C,  780 


2d  quarter. 


$15, 

60O 

50,  COO 

30,  G'JO 

1, 

30O 

14. 

OiO 

42, 

(-(JO 

153, 

r.,:0 

226, 

TSO 

Dividends  of  leading  claims  on  the  Comstock  lode. 

SECOND  QUARTER  IN  ltf67. 


Company. 


S  avage 

Hale  &  Norcross 

Imperial 

Yellow  Jacket 

Chollar-Potosi 

Keiilnck 

Crown  Point 

Gold  HillQ.  M.  &M.  Co... 
Empire  Mill  and  Mining  Co. 
Gould  &.  Curry 


Total 


First  quarter  1867 

Total  since  January,  1867  . 


April. 


May. 


$80,000 
.50,  000 
60,  000 


48,  000 
5,000 


$120, 000 
50,000 
60, 000 
60,  000 
70,000 
40, 080 
48, 000 
5,000 
7,200 


243,000    460,200 


June. 


$160,  COO 
50,000 
40, 000 

90,  000 
70, 000 
60,  000 


5,000 


Total. 


$360,000 
150,000 
160,  000 
150,«00 
140,  000 
100,000 
96,  000 
15,000 
7,200 


1, 178, 200 
790,000 


1, 968, 200 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 


369 


Dividends  of  the  leading  daims  on  the  Comstoclc  lode — Continued. 

SECOND  QUARTER  OF  1866. 


$•20,  000 

$20,  000 
40,  000 

$-J0,  000 

$00, 000 
40,  000 

ChoUiir-Potosi 

48,  000 

48,000 

48, 000 

144,000 

Cold  llillQ.  M.  &  M.  Co 

96,  000 

96, 000 

192,000 

Total 

164,  000 

108, 1)00 

1G4,  000 

430,  000 
90, 000 

First  quarter  1866 

Total  since  January,  1866 ..................... 

520,  000 

The  aggregate  j'ield  of  the  Comstock  lode  since  its  opening  has  been  so  fully 
spoken  of  in  the  preliminary  report,  that  I  shall  here  confine  myself  cliiefly  to  a 
comparison  of  the  operations  of  1SG6  with  the  first  six  months  of  the  present 
year. 

Although  the  first  tal)le  does  not  show  the  entire  yield  of  the  mines  for  1866, 
which  reached,  as  sliown  elsewhere,  the  sum  of  $14,167,071,  it  will  answer  as  a 
basis  for  an  inquiry  into  the  actual  profits  of  mining  enterprises  in  this  district 
for  the  year,  inasmuch  as  mines  owned  by  private  companies,  the  returns  of  which 
are  not  madepublic,  are  generallj^  worked  only  while  they  prove  profitable,  or  at 
any  rate  yield  sufficient  bullion  to  cover  the  actual  expenses  of  their  development. 

By  striking  out  of  the  assessment  table  the  items  relative  to  the  Lady  Brian 
and  Daney  mines,  which  are  not  on  the  Comstock  lode,  we  have  the  followinir 
result : 

Dividends  paid  during  1866 $1,794,400  00 

Assessments  paid  during  18G6 1,232,380  00 

Net  profit  for  the  year  1866 562,020  00 


Equal  to  about  five  per  cent,  of  the  gross  yield  of  the  mines  under  consideration. 
Ihe  taV)le  shows,  however,  that  out  of  the  11  mines  producing  bullion,  only  seven 
realized  sufficient  over  working  expenses  to  waiTant  them  in  distributing  the 
surplus  to  the  stockholders  in  the  form  of  dividends.  These  dividends  show  the 
net  profits  of  the  seven  mines  for  the  year  1866  to  be  the  following  percentage 
of  the  gross  yield.  Gould  and  Curry  15.5,  Savage  20,  Hale  and  Norcross  29, 
Im])eriid  19,  Empire  6.5,  Yellow  Jacket  9,  and  Crown  Point  17. 

The  first  six  incmths  of  1867  show  a  very  marked  imi)rovement  on  1866;  for 
there  is  not  only  an  actual  decrease  in  the  amount  of  assessments  levied,  but  an 
increase  in  the  number  of  dividend-j)aying  mines,  a  very  great  advance  on  tho 
production  of  l)nllion,  and  a  really  gratifying  improvement  in  the  percentage  of 
profit  on  the  gross  operations. 

From  the  tables  it  will  be  seen  that  during  this  period  dividends  were  dis- 
tributed to  the  amount  of  $1,968,200,  from  which  deduct  the  assessments  of 
8380,280,  and  there  remains  $1,587,920  as  the  net  profit  on  87,064,653,  or  about 
22  per  cent.,  against  five  per  cent,  for  the  year  1866.  This  result  is  due  to  many 
causes,  among  which  may  be  mentioned  freedom  from  litigation,  final  settlement 
of  conflicting  interests,  reduced  cost  of  milling,  and  small  expenditures  for  neces- 
sary outside  im})i\)vements.  In  1866  the  latter  item  was  unusually  heavy.  To 
such  causes  as  these  may  we  look  for  the  improved  financial  condition  of  mining 
interests  on  the  Comstock  lode. 

The  actual  })rofits  on  the  capital  invested  in  our  mines  is  a  difficult  question 
to  approach,  surrounded  as  it  is  by  so  many  uncertain  and  tluctuaiing  conditions, 

24 


370 


RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND   TERRITORIES 


and  has  probably  been  spoken  of  in  the  preliminary  report,  as  fully  as  the 
information  at  command  will  allow. 

The  San  Francisco  Bulletin  gives  the  followdng  figures  showing  the  aggregate 
gain  in  the  market  value  of  15  of  our  leading  mines  during  the  past  year: 


Company. 


July  1,  1866. 


January  1, 1867. 


July  1, 1867 


Alpha 

Belcher 

Bullion 

ChoUar-Potosi... 

Confidence 

Crown  Point 

Empire  Mill 

Gould  &  Curry.. 
Hale  &.  Norcross 

Imperial 

Ophir 

Overman 

Savage  

Sierra  Nevada.  . 
Yellov?  Jacket... 

Total 


$249, 600 

]  7-2,  640 

142,500 

540,  400 

99,  840 

570,  COO 

1G8.  000 

840,  o;.o 

600,  000 

412,  000 

308,  OCO 

76,  800 

720,  000 

6.000 

834, 000 


5, 739,  780 


$150, 000 

137, 280 

72, 500 

585, 200 

96,  080 

750,  000 

240, 000 

804,  000 

1,  000,  000 

528,  000 

198,  8C0 

64,  000 

1, 672, 000 

9,000 

1,  488,  COO 


794,  860 


$493, 200 

457, 600 

82, 500 

1,260,000 

99,  840 

1,  086, 000 

224,  400 

846, 000 

1, 240,  COO 

1,040,000 

532, 000 

736, 000 

3,  640,  COO 

25,500 

1,  92  J,  000 


13,  683, 040 


Using  the  valuation  for  July  1,  1867,  the  dividends  paid  during  the  first  six 
months  of  1867  (deducting  assessments)  would  show  a  profit  on  the  gross  opera- 
tions at  the  rate  of  rather  more  than  23  per  cent,  per  annum  for  this  period.  The 
majority  of  our  raining  stocks  are  held,  however,  for  purely  speculative  purposes, 
and  fluctuate  in  value  so  greatly  and  incessantly  that  such  a  calculation  is  of 
little  value,  most  stockholders  depending  for  their  profits  on  sudden  rises  in  the 
value  of  their  property,  caused  by  favorable  developments  or  skilful  "  manipula- 
tion," rather  than  on  the  dividends  paid  out  of  the  product  of  the  mines.  These 
have  been  looked  upon  too  much  in  the  light  of  means  by  which  to  "bull"  stocks, 
and  too  little  thought  has  been  bestowed  by  stockholders  on  the  means  by  which 
they  have  been  obtained. 

Instances  are  not  wanting  where  they  have  been  paid  out  of  bon'owed  capital, 
and  in  many  cases  they  have  been  mucle  only  by  working  the  mine  in  a  ruinous 
manner.  Many  th<iusand  tons  of  rock  have  been  worked  during  the  past  year, 
Avhich  ought  never  to  have  been  taken  from  the  mines  until  such  time  as  it  coulcl 
be  worked  more  cheaply  than  at  present.  Had  the  stockholders  of  the  mining 
companies  looked  to  the  actual  jirolits  of  mining  enterprises  for  their  remuneration, 
they  would  have  extended  to  railroad  matters  a  helping  hand,  and  could  have 
been  realizing  to-day  on  lou -grade  ores  a  profit  of  SIO  or  S12  per  ton,  instead 
of  S4  or  $5.  The  fear  of  temporarily  reducing  the  value  of  their  mining  stocks 
by  granting  such  assistance  has  always  stood  in  the  way.  The  absolute  neces- 
sity, however,  of  better  modes  of  transportation  has  at  length  been  realized,  and 
before  the  expiration  of  another  year  we  shall  have  the  means  of  greatly  reducing 
the  cost  of  mining  and  milling  operations  at  our  command,  and  so  increasing  the 
amount  of  our  legitimate  profits. 

TnE  Costs  and  Losses  ix  Silver  Mining. — There  are  few  facts  connected 
with  the  development  of  the  mineral  resources  of  the  country  that  deserve  more 
immediate  attention  than  the  costs  and  losses  which  attend  gold  and  silver 
mining. 

The  ft)llowing  tables,  compiled  with  the  greatest  care,  exhibit  details  connected 
"With  the  subject  of  silver  mining  in  a  fonn  more  convenient  for  reference  than 
an  elaborately  written  treatise.  The  accounts  of  the  mine  named  have  been 
selected  for  compiling  these  tables  because  they  were  more  convenient  and  con-ect 
than  any  others  at  our  commaiiil,  and  because  this  mine  affords  a  fair  sample  of  a 
well-managed  enterprise  in  Nevada. 


WEST    OF   THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


371 


Similar  taMos  have  not  heon  propaivd  for  ij-old  mining',  hccansc  tlic  books  of 
no  g-olil  mininiif  company  afford  the  necessary  data  for  their  compilation. 

liable  No.  J  is  a  complete  balance  sheet  of  this  company's  operations  for  six 
months,  exhibiting  every  detail  of  its  expenditure  for  that  i)eriod,  divided  under 
ajiprt)priate  heads.  This  table  explains  the  numerous  expenses  attending  silver 
mining,  the  excessive  cost  of  material  and  labor,  and  the  large  proportion  of 
non-productive  work  necessary  to  be  done  in  developing  a  mine. 

Table  No.  2  shows  the  proportions  of  the  precious  metals  saved  and  lost ; 
gives  the  names  of  the'various  mills  at  which  the  ore  was  worked.  This  por- 
tion of  the  subject  is  very  suggestive,  as  exhibiting  the  fact  that  some  of  these 
mills  return  a  larger  per  cent,  of  metal  than  others.  This  table  also  exhil)its 
the  varying  proportions  of  gold  and  silver  in  the  bullion  saved  by  the  various 
mills,  which  appear  to  be  influenced  \>y  the  processes  used  for  its  extraction. 
This  important  feature  in  the  table  would  have  been  more  valuable  had  the  books 
of  the  company  shown  the  depths  and  localities  from  whence  the  ore  reduced 
had  been  extracted. 

It  is  suggestive  also  to  mark  that  the  loss  of  metal,  according  to  assay,  foots 
up  S-471,155  17,  while  the  total  (piantity  saved  only  amounts'to  S816,979  62, 
out  of  SI, 288,132  79.  Of  32  lots  sent  to  mill,  only  two  returned  over  70  per 
cent,  of  the  fire  assay  value ;  this,  too,  in  one  of  the  best  managed  companies, 
and  when  the  mills  are  boasting  of  the  improvements  in  their  machinery  and 
processes.  What  must  have  been  the  waste  during  the  earlj'^  days  of  silver 
mining,  before  the  present  incom})lete  experience  had  been  attained! 

That  the  present  enormous  waste  of  the  precious  metals  by  custom  and  com- 
pany's mills  might  be  avoided,  is  cleai'ly  demonstrated  by  the  success  of  the 
companies  which  re- work  the  tailings  thrown  away  by  these  mills.  In  the  vicinity 
of  ^'irginia  City  there  are  several  miles  of  flumes,  all  lined  with  blankets,  which 
require  hundreds  of  men  to  change  every  few  hours.  The  tailings  thus  collected 
yield  a  larger  profit,  according  to  the  cost  of  their  production,  than  the  ores 
worked  in  the  mills.  Nearly  one-third  of  the  ])ullion  shipped  from  Storey  county, 
Nevada,  is  obtained  from  the  waste  of  the  mills  collected  in  these  flumes. 

Table  No.  3  shows  the  total  product  of  this  mine  for  a  year;  exhibits  the  per- 
centum  of  metal  to  the  ore;  the  costs  of  production  and  reduction.  It  is  hoped 
thesc^  tables  will  be  carefully  studied,  as  they  c(jntain  much  valuable  information 
conveniently  an'anged  for  reference. 

TABLE  No.  1. 

Detailed  statement  of  the  cost  of  production  of  29,404^§§^  tons  of  ore  during 
the  ijt'ar  ending  March  1,  1867,  hy  the  Hale  and  A'orcross  Silver  Mining 
Comjmny  of  Nevada. 


MANAGERIAL. 


Officers : 

Superintendent $4.  75.'?  28 

Clerk 2, 277  48 


Total. 


Office  expenses: 

T(.-lfgriini« 

Newspapers 

Petty  ca^h 

Piiperiiiir 

Repairing  clock. , 
Kxpress  ( barges  . 
Miscellaneous ... 


Total 

Materials  consumed : 
5J  cords  of  wood. 
2  brooms 


$74  75 
2  00 


SALARIES— Continued. 


Materials  consumed; 
Stationery 


Total 

Team  expenses : 

Horse-hire , 

Hay  anil  grain 

Horse  shoeing 

Repairing  buggy.. 

Total , 

PerKonal  property: 
(^fKce  turniture.  .. 

1  stove , 

18  towels 

1  banner 

1  horse 

1  buggy  and  robes  . 

2  horse  blankets  . . . 


$434  60 

511  a5 

$120  00 

2-2!)  90 

2()  75 

25  00 

401  &5 

$172  tJ'J 

12  25 

12  00 

$12!)  00 

3.J0  00 

5(!0  00 

17  CO 


1,243  94 


Total 

Total  managerial $!),  331  25 


372 


RESOURCES    OF   STATES    AND   TERRITORIES 


Detailed  statement  of  the  cost  of  production,  Sfc. — Continued. 


SUMMARY. 

Salaries $7,030  76 

Office  expenses _. 143  55 

Materials 511  35 

Team  expenses 401  65 

Personal  property 1,  243  94 

Total 9,331  25 


HOISTING. 

HOISTING  DEPARTMENT. 

Materials  consumed : 

2,665  pounds  tallow $296  78 

44  pounds  machine  oil 11  00 

36  pounds  sulphur 18  CO 

60  pounds  spun  yam 24  00 

133  pounds  white  lead 35  25 

98  yards  duck 131  35 

19  brooms 20  00 

Rope  and  freight 2,  C53  69 

Hardware 1,119  00 

Total 3,707  07 

Lights:  = 

300  gallons  coal  oil $366  75 

13  dozen  chimneys 63  29 

12reflectors 48  87 

17  dozen  wicks 14  26 

8  gross  matches 19  40 

Total 512  57 

Cars,  cages,  &c. : 

1,828  pounds  iron  for  cars $227  50 

247  pounds  nuts 60  68 

653  bolts 187  76 

52  gross  screws 138  27 

3,303  pounds  iron  for  cages 462  42 

811  pounds  steel  for  cages 150  33 

1,020  bushels  charcoal 336  60 

2,046  pounds  stone  coal 132  11 

61  pounds  borax 27  80 

Total 1,723  47 

Personal  property : 

9  yards  matting $13  50 

15  lamps 86  00 

24  flre-buckets 17  00 

1  clock 25  00 

1  set  stocks  and  dies 15  00 

Total 156  50 

Labor :  ^=z 

Biakoman,  l,415i  days $6,186  00 

Blacksmith,  665  days 2,810  00 

Cai-mau,  730.V  days 3,176  00 

Pitman,  1,078}  days 4,314  00 

Total 16,486  00 

Outside  %vorks :  :z^= 

7,500  feet  timber $210  00 

17  shovels 34  00 

12  pick  handles 5  .50 

Ssledges $10  00 

Laborers,  585J  days 2,  342  83 

Total 2,602  33 

Total  hoisting  department $25, 187  94 


ENGINE  DEPARTMENT. 

Materials  consumed : 

1,916}  cords  wood $26,770  16- 

93  gallons  lard  oil 295  95 

103  pounds  rubber  packing 179  13 

31  pounds  hemp  packing 14  75 

316  pounds  soap  and  soda 55  95 

38  gallons  oil  and  turps 8  25 

6  pounds  sponge^ 20  73 

1  gallon  varnish 8  00 

Sundries 3  00 

Total 27,355  92 

Auxiliary : 

Water,  lyear $2,767  50 

Hardware 701  03 

nifiles 117  00 

Total 3,585  53 

Pump: 

Foundry  bill,  pump,  &c $1, 565  96 

77  feet  pipe 462  00 

362i  pounds  pump  leather 130  87 

2hides 8  00 

Total 2,166  83 

Repairs : 

Mason  work $101  05 

Machine  work 940  63 

Freight 238  30 

Foundry  bill 1,  437  25 

Boiler  work 862  80 

Total 3,580  03 

Labor : 

Engineers,  756}  days $4,  C73  00 

Wood  passer,  365  days 1,  460  00 

Pumpman,  365  days 2,190  00 

Total 8,323  00 


SUMMARY. 

Hoisting  department: 

Materials  consumed $3, 707  07 

Lights 512  57 

Cars,  cages,  &c 1,723  47 

Personal  property 156  50 

Labor 16,486  00 

Outside  works 2,602  33 

Total 25,187  94 


Engine  department : 

Materials  consumed $27, 355  92 

Auxiliary  expenses 3,585  53 

Pump _ 2,166  83 

Rep;iirs 3.580  03 

Labor 8,323  00 

Total 45,011  31 

Total  hoisting 70^199  25 


WEST    OF^-THE .  ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 
Detailed  statefnent  of  the  cost  of  jjroduction,  Sfv. — Continued. 


373 


MIXING. 
PROSPECTING  AND  DEAD  WORK. 


Prospecting. 

Alateriala  consumed. 

Labor. 

Location. 

Feet 

run. 

Timber. 

Lagging. 

Miners. 

Carpenters. 

Name  of  drift. 

a5 
to 

a 

§ 

a 
< 

<u 

13 
0 

a 
< 

0 

1 
0 

a 
< 

a 
0 

0 

3 
0 

s 
< 

•3 

400  foot   

450 
865 

"211 
'"261 

10, 770 

20,  760 

5  060 

$368  45 
726  60 
177  in 

1,257 

2,422 
591 

3,  920 
728 
352 

1,050 

$251  40 
484  40 

21 
41 
10 
94 
12 
85 
18 

$105  00 
205  00 

50  00 
470  00 

60  00 
425  00 

90  00 

1.038 

$4, 1.52  00 
1,  008  00 
4, 608  00 
1,  248  00 
1,  680  00 
120  00 

Do            

118  20 1       2.V2 

700  foot     

980 

47,040'l,646  4(1 
6, 2651    219  27 

37.500  1,312  .50 
9, 000     315  00 

784  00 

145  60 

62  20 

210  00 

1,  152 

312 

420 

30 

Do  

125 
378 

780  foot 



Totals 

2,798 

472 

136,  395*4.  765  .12 

10, 320 

2  055  80 

3,204 

12,816  OqI  281 

1, 405  Oo'tol 

,042  12 

DEAD  WORK. 


Materials  consumed.                                Labor. 

Timber. 

Lagging.                Miners. 

Carpenters. 

Character. 

Location. 

a 
§ 

a 
< 

. 

n 

s 
0 

a 
< 

0 

a 
n 
0 

a 

a 

s 

0 

a 
< 

1 
0 

Retimbering 

Vein 

700  foot  . . . 

Incline 

535  foot  ... 

10,  000 
5,000 

$350  on 

175  ni) 

1,170 
830 

$234  00       125 
166  00         53 

$500  00 

212  00 

432  00 

200  00 

1,920  00 

26 

$156  00 

$156  00 
400  00 

Do 

6,200     2i7  60 
3,  600     126  00 

108 
50 
480 

Do 

868  00 

3,264  00 

Totals 

24, 800     868  no 

2,000 

400  00       816 

3, 264  00 

26 

156  00 

PROSPECTING— ADDITIONAL  E.XPENSES. 

Material^<  consumed : 

2i;8  boxes  candles $1,  474  00 

87  gallons  lubricating  oil 189  20 

1,070  bushels  charcoal 353  26 

8  kegs  powder 49  00 

875  feet  fuze 25  50 

5  sets  car  wheels 162  50 

186  pick  handles 116  25 

36  sledge  handles 18  00 

Total 2,387  71 

Tools : 

57  shovels $114  00 

9sledges 45  00 

29  picks,  old M  00 

230  pounds  steel  for  picks 80  00 

Total 253  00 

Labor : 

Carmen,  981  days $3,92J  00 

Blacksmiths,  285  days 1,710  00 

Total 5,634  00 

Auxiliary : 

3cask8 $10  ,50 

12  rubber  coats 108  00 

Ice 131  90 

Total 250  40 


PROSPECTING— Continued. 


Contracts : 


Contractor. 


Location. 


E.  D.  Owens. 
E.  D.  Owens. 

T.Cassins 

E.  D.  Owens. 


Total  . 


400  feet  level. 
700  feet  level. 
780  feet  level. 
780  feet  level. 


Feet 
run. 


430 

40 

20 

371 


801 


Amount. 


$2, 952  00 

192  00 

140  00 

2, 230  00 


5, 514  00 


Summary  of  prospecting : 

Miners,  3,204  days 

Carocnters,  281  days.. 

Carni'Mi,  981  days 

Blacksmiths,  285 days. 
Timber,  I36,:i95  feet  .. 
Lagging,  10,320  pieces  . 
Artditional  materials. . . 
Additional  tools,  &,c... 
Additional,  auxiliary.. 


$12,  816  00 
1,405  00 
3,924  00 
1,710  00 
4,  765  32 
2,  055  80 
2,  ,387  71 
25  iOO 
ia40 


Total 29,567  23 


Summary  of  dead  work : 

Miners,  816  days 

Carpenters,  26  days  . . 
Timber,  24,800  feet  . . 
Lugging,  2,000  pieces. 


Total. 


$3, 264  00 
1.56  00 
8(i8  00 
400  00 

4,  688  00 


374 


RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 


Detailed  statement  of  the  cost  of  production,  Sfc. — Continued. 


FROSPECTING — Continued. 


Contracts : 

861  feet  running $5,514  00 


Total  prospecting  and  dead  work.  $39,769  23 


E.XTRACTING  ORES. 

Materials  consumed : 

511,813  feet  timber $14,330  76 

53e  boxes  candles 2,  969  87 

62i  kegs  nails 908  92 

81  gallons  lubricating  oil 179  60 

1,121  bushels  charcoal 398  25 

5,820  pounds  iron  tacks 7-7  .50 

4,600  pounds  turntable 5.29  00 

3,  II  3i  pounds  cars 367  15 

40  gross  screws 90  00 

10  sets  car  wheels 300  00 

2  sets  incline  wheels 130  00 

7  brooms 7  00 

Total 20,938  05 

Tools,  &c.: 

llSshovels $175  30 

]6sledge8 91  13 

16axes 33  .50 

19  saws 75  75 

16  hoes 16  21 

7  wheelbarrows 6S  50 

454  tool  handles 276  50 

470  pounds  steel  for  picks 120  00 

Total 850  89 

Labor : 

Miners,  14,938i  days $59,852  00 

Head  miners,  614  days , 3,  625  50 

Carmen,  1,963  days 7,852  00 

Carpenters,  838  days 4,  463  50 

Blacksmiths,  326  days 1,  357  00 

Foreman,  365  days 2,229  00 

Total 79,379  00 

Summary  extracting  ore : 

Materials $20,938  05 

ToSls 8.50  89 

Labor 79,379  00 

Total 101,167  94 

Mining  recapitulation : 

Extracting  ore $101, 167  94 

Prospecting 29,  567  23 

Contracts 5,514  00 

Deadwork 4,688  00 

Total 140,937  17 

IMPROVEMENTS. 

FAIR  SHAFT. 
Real  estate  : 

16  lots  and  expenses $1,970  .50 

1  stable 70  00 

1  tract  and  expenses 2,  2.58  50 

Closing  V  street.  , ICO  00 

Moving  dwelling 85  00 

Total 4,484  00 

Materials    consumed : 

127,015  feet  timber $3,  806  46 

ISJkegsnails 208  50 

1 1  gross  screws 31  .55 

1  cord  wood 14  00 

1  box  caudles 5  .50 

112  bushels  charcoal 40  32 

2,  f*  1 1  pounds  iron 327  90 

SOU  pounds  nuts,  &C 47  60 

3  kegs  powder 21  00 

SOOfeetfuse 8  50 


FAIR  SHAFT — Continued. 

Materials  consumed: 

1  gallon  boiled  oil $2  50 

1  quire  emery  paper 150 

1,7.50  bricks,  &c 42  00 

43i  pounds  packing 48  06 

30  pounds  white  lead 7  00 

Chalk  and  line 3  00 

Stationery 23  00 

Total 4,638  39 

Materials  on  hand : 

8  windows $44  00 

102bolts 39  66 

12  coach  screws 3  84 

30  tool  handles 15  50 

20  feet  belting 19  20 

3  brooms 3  00 

7  pairs  hinges 13  15 

8  locks  and  latches 8  50 

Rope 947  73 

482  pieces  pipe  and  joints 189  88 

1  iron  tuyere 8  50 

Total 1,293  31 

Engine  adjuncts : 

2reels $258  00 

1  pump 135  00 

Boxes,  collars,  &c 59  70 

1  valve 9  00 

6  flanges,  &c 7  25 

Scocks 32  00 

1  steam  stop 3  50 

1  oil  cup 10  00 

Total 534  45 

Labor : 

Foreman,  36  days $216  00 

Machinist,  16i  days 99  00 

Masons,  6  days 34  50 

Blacksmiths,  54  days 272  00 

Carpenter.s,  264i  days 1,3.30  75 

Miners,  82days 328  00 

Laborers,  367 i  days 1,471  00 

Total 3,751  25 

Contractor $300  00 

Materials  used : 

1  grindstone $37  12 

1  shaft  hook 30  00 

1  set  bellows,  &c 100  00 

7  wheelbarrows 102  00 

2  sets  car  wheels 60  00 

1  hoisting  cask 8  00 

lean 1  25 

3  lanterns ,  6  50 

14  pieces  furniture 60  25 

Total 405  12 

Tools,  &c.: 

20shovels $40  00 

33  picks 122  50 

4  sledges 17  00 

4  axes iO  25 

14  durable  tools 53  88 

2saws 11  25 

25  files 17  75 

1  paintbrush 2  50 

53  assorted  brushes 20  00 

186  pounds  steel 46  50 

Total 341  63 

Incidental  expenses : 

Hauling $107  50 

Advertising 4  00 

Total Ill  50 


WEST    OF   THE   KOCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


375 


Detailed  statement  of  the  cost  of  production,  t^r. — Coutiuued. 


FAlll  SHAFT— Continued. 

SnmmBrv : 

Uoafestate $4,484  00 

JUiterials  consumed 4,638  3!) 

lilaterials  on  bund 1,293  31 

Engine  at\i""*^''* '*'''*  "^"^ 

Labor 3,  751  33 

Contractor 300  00 

Materials  used 405  12 

Tools.&c 341  63 

lueideutol  expenses 1 1 1  50 

Total 15,859  65 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Real  estate : 

Superintendent's  residence $1,050  00 

Repairing  ditto 271  04 

Total 1,321  04 

Ore  house : 

22.700  feet  timber $794  50 

19,0U0  shingles 167  00 

6kegsnail3 84  00 

830  pounds  iron  chutes 91  30 

Total 1,136  80 

Labor :  = = 

Carpenters,  45  days $225  00 

Blacksmiths,  19day8 114  00 

Laborers,  20day8 80  00 

Total 419  00 

Scales :  ^=== 

6,000  feet  timber $168  00 

l,240pound3  iron 130  60 

i  of  a  ItPg  spikes 4  00 

2  gross  screws 20  00 

24  coach  screws 7  20 

Total 

Labor : 

Carpenters,  15  days 

Blacksmiths,  8  days 

Laborers,  24  days 

Total 

Expenses : 

Freight 

Sundries 

Total 91  01 

Summary  of  improyements : 

Fair  shaft $15,859  65 

Real  estate 1,321  04 

Ore  house  ....' 1,  555  80 

Scales 639  81 

Total  improvements 19,  376  30 

RELATIVE. 


CLASSIFICATION. 
Weighing : 

Scale  cards $99  00 

Regulating  scales 7  50 

Ca,<h  paid  for  weighing 3  30 

Overman,  390  days 1,608  00 

Macadamizing 96  00 

Total 1,813  86 

By  receipt  for  weighing  ...  47  28 

Sampling : 

10  cords  wood 130  00 

6  yards  oil  cloth 9  00 

Twine,  paper,  &c 34  25 

24  sample  bags 5  00 


329  80 

$75  00 
48  00 
90  00 

219  00 

$71  01 
20  00 

CLASSIFICATION Continued. 

Tools  : 

3  shovels $0  00 

2  brooms 2  00 

3  brushes 4  25 

Incidental  expenses: 

Assaying 2, 300  00 


$2, 490  50 

Total  weighing  and  sampling 4, 2G2  58 

Auxiliary  expenses  : 

Surveying $500  00 

llauliug 134  25 

Preiniumou  coin 2,  013  01 

Assaying  bullion $8,827  69 

Less  clips 605  90 

8, 221  79 

Total 10,868  05 

TiiXGS  r 

Federal  buUion $7,239  83 

State  bullion 2, 189  70 

City  bullion 2Q3  20 

State  and  county  property 1,  023  62 

City  property 346  43 

Federal  license 7  50 

Total 11,010  28 

Contingent  expenses : 

Law  expenses,  fees,  &c $250  00 

Maps 55  00 

Miscellaneous 51  80 

Subscriptions 250  00 

Medical  attendance 133  00 

Gratuity  to  Mrs.  Farge 387  00 

Brandy  and  whiskey 53  50 

Total 1,180  30 

Summary  : 

Weighing  and  sampling $4,262  58 

Auxiliary  expenses 10, 868  05 

Taxes 11,010  28 

Contingent  expenses 1, 180  30 

Total  relative  expenses 27,  321  21 


$1, 766  08 


TOTALS. 

RECAPITULATION. 

Managerial  cost $9,331  25 

Hoisting  expenses  : 

Hoisting  department $25, 187  94 

Engine 45,011  31 

70, 199  25 

Mining  expenses : 

Prospecting 29,081  23 

Contracts 5,514  00 

34  595  23 

Dead  work 4,688  00 

Extracting  ore 101,  107  94 

105, 855  94 

Improvements — cost : 

Fair  shaft,  total  expenses..  15,859  65 

Real  estate  purchased 1,321  04 

Ore  house  and  scales 2, 195  61 

19, 376  30 

Relative  expenses : 

Weighing  and  sampling 4,262  58 

Auxiliary  expenses 10,868  05 

Taxes 11,010  28 

Contingent  expenses 1,  180  30 

^  27, 321  21 

Total  cost  of  production 2(i0,  679  18 


376- 


EESOURCES    OP    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 


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WEST   OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 


377 


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380  EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

BtJLLiON  Product  of  the  Comstock;  Lode. — The  foregoing  tables,  from  tlie 
Commercial  Herald  and  Market  Review,  show  the  bullion  product  of  the  lead- 
ing claims  on  the  Comstock  lode  during  the  year  1867,  as  compared  with  1866. 
The  bullion  product  of  the  Yellow  Jacket  claim  has  been  estimated  for  the  last 
six  months  of  1867.  .  The  total  product  of  the  Comstock  lode  for  the  year  ending 
December  31,  1867,  is  estimated  by  the  most  reliable  authorities  at  $17,500,000. 
It  is  estimated  that  other  districts  in  Nevada  have  yielded  during  the  same  period 
^2,500,000,  making  the  total  product  of  Nevada  for  the  calendar  year  1867, 
$20,000,000.  The  average  percentage  of  gold  and  silver  is  shown  in  table  2,  on 
the  workings  of  the  Hale  and  Norcross,  being  about  66  per  cent,  silver,  and  34 
,per  cent.  gold.     In  the  outside  districts  the  proportion  of  gold  is  considerably  less. 

Assay  Ofpices,  &C. — There  are  four  assay  offices  in  Virginia  and  three  in 
Gold  Hill ;  some  few  of  the  mining  companies  assay  their  own  bullion. 

The  amalgam  is  usually  retorted  at  the  mill  and  delivered  to  the  assayer  in 
the  form  of  ''  crude  bullion."  After  melting  and  refining  it  is  assayed  by  the 
ordinary  process  of  cupcllation  with  lead,  the  accm'acy  of  these  assays  being 
checked  from  time  to  time  by  the  humid  method. 

The  charge  on  bullion  for  transportation  to  San  Francisco  is  one  per  cent.,  and 
on  coin  from  San  Francisco  to  Virginia  one  and  one-eighth  per  cent.,  the  latter 
being  somewhat  the  highest,  to  cover  the  extra  risks  of  loss  and  robbery. 


STAGE  ROUTES  CENTRING  AT  OR  PASSING  THROUGH  VIRGINIA  CITY. 

Route  No.  1.  Virginia  to  Sacramento^  via  tlie  Central  Pacific  Railroad,  with 
which  it  connects  at  Cisco  depot.  Two  coaches  daily  each  way.  Fare,  including 
raikoad  chai-ges,  from  Virginia  to  Sacramento,  $20  ;  fi'om  Sacramento  to  Vir- 
ginia, $25.  This  route  crosses  the  Sierra  by  the  Donner  Lake  Pass,  the  one 
selected  by  the  C.  P.  R.  R.  The  fall  of  snow  during  the  winter  is  very  heavy, 
and  sleighs  run  from  the  terminus  of  the  railroad  to  within  30  miles  of  Virginia. 
Duxing  the  winter  of  1S66  and  1867  they  ran  for  a  short  time  into  Virginia 
without  changing. 

Route  No.  2.  Virginia  to  Sacramento,  via  Placerville  and  the  Sacramento 
Valley  railroad,  passing  through  Gold  Hill,  Silver  City,  Empire,  Carson,  and 
Genoa,  connecting  with  the  railroad  at  Shingle  Springs.  One  coach  daily  each 
way.  This  route  crosses  the  Sierras  at  tlie  south  end  of  Lake  Tahoe.  Snow 
on  the  summits  of  the  mountains  heavy.  During  the  severest  portion  of  the 
winter  sleighs  run  from  the  sunnnit  nearly  down  to  Carson  valley.  Before  the 
construction  of  the  Central  Pacific  railroad,  nearly  the  entire  freighting  business 
between  California  and  Nevada  passed  over  this  route.  At  the  present  time  the 
Donner  Lake  road  takes  j)robably  three-fourths,  and  will  gradually  secure  the 
balance  as  the  railroad  approaches  Virginia. 

RouTK  No.  3.  Overland  route,  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  States,  passes 
through  Virginia,  one  coach  arriving  and  departing  daily.  Passengers  com- 
plete the  journey  to  Sacramento  by  either  of  the  two  previously  mentioned  routes. 
Fare  to  Austin  from  Virginia,  about  !^15  ;  to  Salt  Lake,  $70;  to  the  eastern  rail- 
road terminus,  $100. 

Route  No.  4.  Virginia  to  Carson,  passing  through  Gold  Hill,  Silver  City, 
and  Empire,  one  coach  each  way  daily. 

Route  No.  5.  Virginia  to  Dayton,  passing  through  Gold  Hil  and  Silver  City, 
one  coach  each  way  daily. 

Route  No.  6.   Virginia  to  Washoe  and  Ophir,  one  coach  each  way  daily. 

Route  No.  7.  Virginia  to  Idaho  Territory,  passing  through  the  Humboldt 
county  settlements,  one  coach  each  wa}'-  every  other  da3^  This  line  connects 
with  the  stages  on  route  No.  1,  at  Hunter's  crossing  of  the  Tnickee  river,  about 
24  miles  from  Virginia. 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  381 

RoTTTE  No.  8.  Fast  freight,  via  Bonner  Lalcc  and  the  C.  P.  It.  JR.,  one  coach 
each  way  daily.  Brings  perishable  freight  to  Nevada,  carrying  passengers  only 
from  Nevada  to  California,  the  amonnt  of  return  freight  being  small. 

KouTE  No.  9.  Fast  frcifiht,  via  Placerville  and  the  Sacramento  Valley  railroad, 
details  the  same  as  route  No.  8. 

KouTE  No.  10.  Fast  freight  to  Belmont,  in  Central  Nevada,  via  Austin,  one 
coach  each  way  weekly.     Carries  freight  and  passengers  both  ways. 

Route  No.  11.  Fast  freight  to  Belmont,  one  coach  twice  a  week  each  w-ay, 
caiTying  passengers  and  freight.  / 


STAGE  LINES  CENTRING  AT  CARSON  CITY. 

Route  No.  1.  Carson  to  Dayton,  via  Empire,  one  coach  each  way  daily. 

Route  No.  2.  Carson  to  Washoe,  via  FranJctown  and  O^/hir,  one  coach  each 
way  daily. 

Route  No.  3.  Carson  to  Aurora,  via  Genoa  and  Wellington's  station,  one 
coach  each  way  every  other  day.  The  mines  at  Pinegrove  lie  a  few  miles  to  the 
east  of  Wellington's.  At  Genoa  this  route  connects  with  stages  for  Silver 
monntain  and  jNIarkleeville,  and  at  Aurora  with  stages  for  Blind  Springs,  Fort 
Independence,  Kearsarge,  and  Owen's  River  valley. 

The  majority  of'  these  routes  have  been  established  for  several  years,  and,  as 
will  be  seen  by  the  following  table  of  postal  routes,  usually  receive  government 
aid,  in  the  form  of  subsidies  for  carrying  the  United  States  mails.  But  few  of 
them,  especially  those  operating  between  distant  settlements  and  through  thinly 
settled  countries,  could  exist  without  such  assistance.  Though  sutiering  less 
severely  from  Indian  depredations  on  this  side  of  the  Rocky  mountains  than  on 
the  eastern  slope,  these  lines  of  travel,  in  some  instances,  absolutely  require  the 
presence  of  soldiers  to  make  them  safe  modes  of  communication. 


SECTIOX    XVIII.   • 

VIRGINIA  AND  ADJACENT  DISTRICTS— FACILITIES  FOR  OBTAINING  FUEL. 

Coal. — No  coal  deposits  w'hich  are  likely  to  prove  of  permanent  value  have 
been  found  in  the  neighborhood  of  Vii'ginia.  Considerable  prospecting  has  been 
done  in  the  neighborhood  of  El  Dorado  canon,  a  few  miles  from  Dayton,  where 
inferior  lignite  is  found  associated  with  triassic  ('?)  limestones  and  shales,  and  at 
Crystal  Peak,  on  the  Tiaickee  river,  near  the  California  State  line,  where  lustrous 
black  lignite  is  found  in  small  quantities,  in  recent  geological  deposits.  In  the 
Palm\Ta  mountains,  a  few  miles  from  Como,  a  small  vein  of  lignite  is  also  found, 
but  none  of  these  localities  can  be  relied  upon  for  a  supply  sufiicient  to  warrant 
an  outlay  of  capital.  Many  other  points  have  been  located  as  coal  lands,  with- 
out any  foundation  whatever,  the  dece[)tive  appearance  of  some  metamorphic  or 
igneous  rocks  having  misled  persons  ignorant  of  geological  fomiations  into  costly 
and  useless  expenditure  of  time  and  money.* 

The  enure  district  is  dependent  on  wood  for  fuel.  When  the  mines  on  the 
Comstock  lode  were  first  discovered,  the  surrounding  mountains  were  covered 
with  a  scanty  giowth  of  scrubby  j)ines,  (known  as  the  piuon  or  pinenut,)  and  a 
variety  of  juniper,  generally  called  cedar.  This  supply  has  been  entirely  exhausted, 
the  nearest  remaining  timber  of  these  kinds  coming  to  the  market  from  the  mountains 
east  and  south  of  Dayton,  and  north  of  Virginia,!  )oth  localities  about  12  miles  dis- 
tant from  the  place  of  consumption.  Even  at  these  points  the  amount  easily  acces- 
sible is  rapidly  diminishing.     The  rugged  character  of  the  mountains  compels 

*  See  article  on  coal  deposits  of  Nevada,  section  2,  page  312. 


382  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

the  lnml)ermen  to  pack  the  wood  on  mules,  frequently  two  or  three  miles  to 
places  which  are  accessible  to  wagons.  This  and  the  distance  from  market 
make  the  price  high,  ranging  from  $14  to  $16  per  cord.  The  piiion  is  considered 
the  most  valuable  firewood,  being  a  hard,  resinous,  fine-grained  variety,  growing 
from  10  to  30  feet  in  lieiglit,  and  commands  about  82  per  cord  more  than  the 
cedar.  The  whole  district  will  ere  long  be  entirely  dependent  on  the  practically 
inexhaustible  forests  of  the  Sierra  Nevadas.  Even  now  large  quantities  of  fire- 
wood are  brought  from  this  source,  though  the  fuel  is  considered  inferior  to  the 
piuon.  There  are  manj^mills  working  ore  from  the  Comstock  mines,  located  at 
the  foot  of  the  Sierras,  and  the  teams  hauling  ore  to  these  points  bring  return 
loads  of  firewood  or  lumber.  Large  quantities  are  floated  down  the  Carson  river 
yearl}^,  a  distance  of  60  to  100  hundred  miles  from  the  forests  at  the  headwaters 
of  the  river  to  Empire  City,  in  Eagle  valley,  and  are  shipped  from  that  point  to 
the  mines  and  mills.  The  vicinity  of  Carson,  Washoe  valley  and  Galena  also 
j'ield  an  abundant  supply,  but  a  wagon  freight  of  12  to  18  miles  keeps  the  price 
at  about  the  figures  mentioned. 

Co^^^suMPTiox  OF  Firewood  axd  LuiiBER. — The  following  table  shows 
approximatel}^  the  daily  consumption  of  firewood  in  the  district : 

Cords. 

By  hoistino^  works  on  mines 70 

By  mills  crushing  ores 378 

For  domestic  use 120 

Total 568 

The  average  cost  of  this  firewood  will  be  about  $10  per  cord  or  $5,680  per 
day,  giving  a  yearly  total  of  over  .$2,000,000.  Of  this  sum  at  least  60  per  cent, 
is  paid  for  hauling  to  the  place  of  consumption. 

The  consumption  of  lumber  and  mining  timbers  in  the  district  will  reach  some- 
where near  25,000,000  feet,  (board  measure,)  of  which  about  17,900,000  feet  are 
used  in  and  around  the  mines  on  the  Comstock  lode.  The  total  annual  value 
of  this  branch  of  business  will  not  ial\  far  short  of  8800,000  per  annum. 

Other  Mineral  Deposits. — The  mining  district  under  consideration  may 
be  called  exclusively  a  silver  region,  its  other  mineral  deposits  being  relatively 
of  small  value. 

Gold  occurs  in  small  quantities  in  many  of  the  ravines  along  the  foot  hills  of 
the  Sierras,  and  Gold  canon  was  worked  as  a  placer  mine  before  the  discovery 
of  silver;  but  both  of  these  operations  have  been  discontinued  for  some  years. 

Copper  Ores  are  found  in  many  localities,  both  east  and  west  of  Carson,  but 
the  difficult}'  of  making  copper  mining  remunerative  in  Nevada,  with  the  existing 
high  rates  of  labor,  transportation,  and  sujiplies  have  prevented  their  development. 

Iron  Ores  are  abundant  in  the  mountains  southwest  of  American  Flat,  and 
about  fuiu'  miles  south  of  Virginia,  but  they  ai"e  unfavorably  situated  for  working, 
and  not  likely  to  be  of  value. 

Lead  OpvES  containing  a  considerable  percentage  of  silver  occur  frequently 
in  the  neighborhood  of  Galena,  in  AVashoe  county.  The  mines  have  been  opened 
to  some  extent,  passing  into  the  hands  of  several  different  parties,  wlio  have  failed 
to  work  them  prolirabiy,  though  admiral)ly  situated  as  regards  both  water  power 
for  concentration  and  fuel  for  smelting.  The  galena  is  associated  with  conside- 
rable quantities  of  niis])ickel,  which  renders  careful  sorting  essential  to  the  pro- 
duction of  good  marketable  lead,  luit  the  manner  of  the  association  is  such  that 
no  diliiculty  need  arise  on  this  account. 

Plumbago  .of  inferior  quality  is  found  extensively  in  the  mountains  east  of 
the  Carson  river,  a  few  miles  from  Enipire,  but  has  never  been  utilized.  It  also 
occurs  between  Virginia  and  Washoe,  in  the  Washoe  mountains,  and  at  one  time 
was  used  in  the  manufacture  of  crucibles. 

Sulphur  occurs  at  the  Steamboat  Springs,  condensed  in  the  earth  from  the 
rising  vapors,  but  not  in  any  large  quantity.   ^ 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 


383 


LiMESTOXE  of  fine  quality  is  j)lentv  in  the  mountains  east  and  south  of  Virginia. 

NujiBKR  OF  ]\Iixixo  Locations  Claimed  and  Opened. — The  number  of 
miniui;  ehiims  reeonled  on  the  books  of  the  mining  recorders  of  Virginia  and 
Gold  Hill  does  not  fall  far  short  of  5,000.  If  to  these  are  adch'd  otlier  claims 
throughout  the  district  under  consideration,  the  nnnd)er  ^vill  not  fall  far  short  of 
8,000.  When  we  compare  this  numl)er  with  the  claims  on  which  work  is  being 
done  at  the  present  time,  (probaldy  not  more  than  50)  we  begin  to  realize  the 
character  of  the  wild  mining  fever  which  raged  here  from  18G0  to  186.S.  It 
must  not  be  supposed,  however,  that  all  claims  at  present  lying  untouched  are 
worthless.  ]Many  of  them  developed  ore,  but  too  low  in  quality  to  pay  a  profit 
at  the  time  they  were  abandoned.  Still  all  the  claims  which  may  at  any  time 
in  the  future  become  valuable  will  not  exceed  a  few  hundred,  a  vast  proportion 
of  the  8,000  locations  having  no  foundation  whatever,  and  many  of  which  could 
scarcely  be  pointed  out  even  by  the  locators  themselves. 

COST    OF    MATERIALS. 

The  following  table  may  be  taken  as  a  fair  illustration.  The  few  articles 
used  in  the  mines  not  occurring  in  this  table  are  added  at  the  end,  the  average 
price  being  derived  from  the  same  source : 

Materials  consumed  at  the  Gould  Sf  Curry  mill  during  the  year  ending  Novein- 

ber  30,  1866. 


Articles 


■Wood,  cords 

Lumber,  feet 

Shingles 

Chnrcoal,  bushels 

Iron,  pouudri 

Gas  pipe,  pounds 

Casting.-i,  pounds 

Rivets,  nuts,  &c.,  pounds 

Steel,  pounds 

Copper,  pounds 

B;ibbit  metal,  pounds 

Nails,  pounds 

Zinc,  pounds 

Turpentine,  gallons 

Belting,  pounds 

Packing,  pounds 

Rope,  pounds 

Hose,  pounds 

Sulphate  of  copper,  pounds. 

Salt,  pounds 

Lard  oil,  gallons 

Kerosene  oil,  gallons 

Linseed  oil,  gallons 

Quicksilver,  flasks 

Cut  bolts,  pounds 

Screens,  pounds 

Candles,  pounds 

Axes  and  handles 

Picks 


Shovels 

Feed,  sacks 

Hay.  bales 

Axle  grease 

Copper  rivets,  pounds. 

Tallow,  pounds 

Alcohol,  gallons 

Brooms 

Oakum,  pounds  

Sledge  handles 

Lamp  chimneys 

Hoes 


White  and  red  lead  . 

Blankets 

Leather 

Stone  coal 

Water 

Sundries 

Mining  timbers 

Hay 

Barley , 


Quantity. 


11,  442 
17:2,  857 

21,500 
5,848 

12,  G39 
450 

395,  C99 

853 

1,253 

178 

262 

3,  832 

172 

25 

2,888 

494 

393 

136 

87,  35.3 

345,  668 

1,  360 

985 

40 

675 

923 

743 

2,980 

71 

42 

239 

487 

19G 

116 

280 

10, 863 

15 

189 

126 

157 

531 

76 

1,241 

43 

575 

9,751 


Cost. 


$168, 830  00 

3,725  00 

185  00 

1,659  00 

1,  698  00 
258  00 

33,  880  00 
175  00 
315  00 
142  00 
120  00 
417  00 
42  00 
72  00 

2,  192  CO 
497  00 

96  00 

97  00 
17,  588  00 
10,  943  00 

2,487  CO 

1,615  00 

99  00 

35,  013  00 

214  00 

633  00 

819  00 

67  00 

20  00 

231  00 

2,  087  00 
1,  120  00 

58  00 

280  00 

1,361  00 

60  00 
147  00 

46  00 

77  00 
174  00 

71  00 
242  00 
347  00 
246  CO 
714  00 
6,  8:!5  00 

3,  833  00 


Average  price. 


(per  M) 


$14  72 
42  40 
8  60 
28 
13i- 
57.i 
8* 
20 
25 
80 
46 
11 
25 
3  00 


1  00 
25 


20 

3 

1  83 

1  64 

2  47 
51  89 

23 
lfo.75 
27i 


50 
1  39 


50 

1  00 
12* 

4  00 
77 
32 
50 
32 

1  00 
20 

8  00 
42i 
(per  ton)  ..150  00 


$28  to$:!0  per  M  feet. 
$37  50  per  ton. 
4i  per  pound. 


384 


EESOUECES    OF   STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 


PoPULATioif  OF  TowifS. — In  the  absence  of  census  tables  it  is  extremely 
diflBcult  to  give  accurate  information  on  this  head.  The  population  of  the  differ- 
ent towns  may  be  estimated  at  about  the  following  figures,  which  Avill  probably 
be  found  rather  over  than  under  the  mark : 

Virginia,  Gold  Hill  aird  Silver  City 12,  000 

Carson 1,000 

Washoe 1,  000 

Dayton 1,  000 

Empire 500 

The  entire  district  under  consideration 20,  000 

Of  this  number  about  1,500  are  employed  directly  in  the  mines,  and  about 
1,200  in  the  various  mills,  the  remainder,  whether  engaged  in  farming,  lumber- 
ing or  in  trade,  being  more  or  less  dependent  on  the  mining  interest  for  their 
support.  Were  it  not  for  its  mining  attractions,  the  district  Avould  in  all  proba- 
bility have  remained  the  desert  it  was  in  1859,  before  the  discovery  of  the  Com- 
stoclc.  Previous  to  that  time  it  supported  only  a  scanty  population,  w^ho  made 
a  livelihood  out  of  the  annual  emigi-ation  over  the  plains. 

Price  of  Laboe. — Miners  receive  from  $3  50  to  $4  per  diem,  and  black- 
smiths, carpenters,  brakemen  and  engineers,  from  $5  to  $8.  Mill  hands  earn 
from  $3  to  $5,  according  to  the  responsibility  of  their  positions. 

]\IoDE  AND  Cost  of  Living. — The  following  list  of  prices  current  for  articles 
of  domestic  consumption  is  taken  from  the  daily  papers: 


Flour,  per  100  pounds $S  00  a$6  50 

California  bacon 25  a  27 

California  hams 28  a  30 

Eastern  bacon 20  a  25 

Eastern  bams 20  a  25 

Butter,  ranch 42ia  50 

Butter,  eastern  firkin 40  a  50 

Green  coffee,  per  pound,  Rio. ..  35 

Green  coffee,  per  pound,  Java.  40 

Coffee,  Chartres,  1  lb.  papers..  50 

Cheese,  new  California,  per  lb-.  25  a  374 

Candles,  per  pound 30  a  37.^ 

Coru-mcal,  per  pound 10 

Lard,  Calitbinia,  per  pound..  .  25  a  30 

Crushed  sugar,  per  pound 19  a  25 

Browu  sugar,  per  pound 16  a  20 

Powdered  sugar,  per  pound.  ..  25 

Golden  sirup,  per  gallon 1  50  a  2  00 

Tea,  black.  Comet,  per  pound.  1   12  a  1  35 

Tea,  green.  Comet,  per  pound.  1  25  a  1  50 

Tea,  Japanese,  per  pound..  ..  1  00  a  1  25 

Plug  tobacco 85  a  1  50 

Salt,  10-pound  sacks 75 

Salt,  5-pound  sacks 50 


Salt,  3-poiind  sacks $0  25 

Whiskey,  Monongahela 5  00  a$6  00 

Whiskey,  Bourbon 4  00  a  6  00 

Whiskey,  quart  bottles 1  25  a  1  50 

Coal  oil,  per  gallon 1  20  a  1  50 

Eggs,  per  dozen 62^ 

Eggs,  per  box  50  dozen 50 

Mackerel,  per  kit 5  00 

Mackerel,  per  barrel 18  00  a20  00 

Trout,  Lake  Tahoe 20  a      25 

Codfish,  per  pound 20  a      25 

Salmon,  salt,  per  pound 20  a 


20  a 
5  a 


Salmon,  smoked,  per  pound 
Salmon,  fresh,  per  pound.. 

Herrings,  fresh,  pe*'  pound  ..  25 

Herrings,  salt,  per  pound 25 

Potatoes,  per  pound 2|a 

Potatoes,  sweet,  per  pound  ..  12^« 

Cabbage,  per  pound 7  a 

Green  peas,  per  pound 12^ 

Asparagus,  per  pound 20  a 

Onions,  per  pound Ga 

Beets,  per  pound 4  a 

Turnips,  per  pound 4  a 


25 
25 
37i 


3 
16 


25 
10 
5 
5 


Even  in  the  towns  a  large  proportion  of  the  population  board  at  restaurants 
or  hotels,  at  rates  varying  from  $8  to  $12  per  week.  Many  mills  are  so  situated 
that  they  are  compelled  to  keep  a  boarding-house  for  the  men  employed,  in  which 
case  they  are  usually  paid  so  much  a  month  including  their  board.  This  system 
is  the  inevitable  result  of  the  unsettled  disposition  of  much  of  our  population, 
who,  in  spite  of  oft-repeated  warnirigs,  are  yet  ready  to  believe  that  every  new 
mining  camp  discovered  is  better  than  the  one  in  which  they  are  located,  and 
rush  to  it  accordingly,  in  the  hope  of  making  the  "big  strike"  which  shall  bring 
them  wealth  and  comfort  in  a  day,  instead  of  winning  them  by  the  old  well-tried 
ride  of  patient  industry  and  perseverance.  There  are  many  signs,  however,  of 
improvement  in  this  respect ;  but  the  number  of  those  who  have  come  to  look 
upon  Nevada  as  a  permanent  home  are  very  few,  indeed. 

House  servants  receive  from  $30  to  840  a  month.  Many  Chinamen  are  employed 
in  this  capacity  at  about  the  same  wages. 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  385 

The  gvoai  majority  i»f  private  residences  in  this  district  are  built  of  wood 

IiKXKKiTs  or  THE  PACIFIC  RAILROAD  AND  ITS  BRANCHES. — The  Central 
Pacific  raih'oad  at  the  nearest  point  will  be  about  20  miles  distant  from  Viroinia. 
Even  were  there  no  railroad  connection  between  the  two  points,  we  should  yet 
feel  the  advantai]fe  of  this  cfreat  thoroughfare,  in  more  rapid  and  certain  com- 
munication with  the  seaboard,  and  in  reduced  rates  of  freight.  But  its  benefits 
are  likel}'  to  be  largely  increased  by  the  construction  of  a  line  from  Virginia  to 
a  point  on  the  Truckee  river,  about  2G  miles  east  of  the  State  line.  Tliis  line 
has  been  carefully  surveyed,  its  chief  features  being  enumerated  in  tho  following- 
abstract  : 

Length  of  road  from  the  Savftgo  mine  in  Virginia  to  the  Truckee  river  and 
Central  Pacific  railroad,  20  miles. 

Total  length  of  road,  22  miles. 

Total  elevation  to  be  ovci'come,  1,996  feet. 

Average  grade  per  mile,  115^^^  feet. 

Heaviest  grade  per  mile,  180  feet. 

Jlinimum  curve,  radius,  300  feet. 

Percentage  of  straight  line,  65. 

Total  estimated  cost,  including  equipment,  &c.,  $1,105,743. 

Total  estimated  revenue  per  annum,  $1,368,320. 

I'robable  net  profits,  60  })er  cent,  of  gross  revenue. 

This  line  follows  a  hillside  grade  along  the  Washoe  mountains  to  a  point  1^ 
miles  north  of  Virginia,  where  it  descends  into  Long  valley,  and  follows  the 
waters  of  that  valley  to  the  Truckee  river.  These  flow  through  smooth  vallej's, 
occasionally  intennqited  by  deep  gorges  bounded  on  either  side  by  lofty  prccipitoQS 
liluffs  of  trach^'te  or  basalt;  but  in  all  cases  the  bottom  of  the  canon  is  compara- 
tively smooth,  and  wide  enough  to  admit  of  the  construction  of  a  good  road  with- 
out being  compelled  to  adopt  a  hillside  grade,  except  in  one  instance,  for  about 
li  miles.  Owing  to  these  circumstances,  a  good  road  can  be  built  for  a  very 
moderate  outlay,  though  the  route  lies  through  very  rough  and  broken  moun- 
tains. 

A  preliminary  reconnoissancc  of  this  route  was  made  early  this  spring,  and  the 
detailed  location  has  just  been  completed  with  very  flattering  prospects.  The 
importance  of  the  early  completion  of  this  road  to  the  mining  interest  of  this  dis- 
trict is  almost  beyond  calculation.  Its  effects  will  be  felt  in  the  reduced  price  of 
freight  on  general  merchandise,  in  the  reduc<?d  cost  of  firewood  and  lumber,  and 
in  the  possibility  of  working  ores  at  present  valueless  iVom  their  too  poor  qualit}-. 

At  the  present  time  about  30,000  tons  of  general  merchandise  are  brought  from 
California  to  Nevada  annually  for  consumption  in  this  district,  at  a  cost  for  trans- 
])ortation  of  about  $1,800,000.  Through  railroad  conununication  with  Sacra- 
mento will  result  in  a  saving  of  upwards  of  $900,000  per  annum,  of  which  about 
10,  per  cent,  or  $90,000  may  be  credited  to  the  Virginia  and  Truckee  railroad. 

The  road  will  nho  make  the  pine  forests  of  the  Sierra  Nevadas  easily  accessilde 
frohi  Virginia,  and  from  this  source  both  lumber  and  firewood  can  be  supplied  to 
Virginia  and  Gold  Hill  at  a  reduction  of  fully  35  per  cent,  on  present  rates.  The 
following  details  of  the  probable  business  of  the  road  are  from  the  report  of  the 
chief  engineer,  J.  E.  James.  The  figures  show  the  present  actual  consumption 
in  the  localities  where  the  opening  of  railroad  communication  with  the  Truckee 
river  and  the  Central  Pacific  railroad  would  affect  their  price : 

According  to  the  estimate  of  parties  likely  to  be  well  iufornied,  firewood  can  bo  delivered 
at  the  Truckee  terminus  of  the  road  at  §:;  or  .$3  CO  per  cord.  They  propose  to  cut  this  tiic- 
wood  in  the  Sierras  and  tluat  it  dowu  ihe  Truckee  river.  Logs  <ire  at  present  furnished  to 
Eastman's  saw-mill  (only  a  tew  miles  higher  up  the  river)  from  this  source,  showinf^  the  plan 
to  be  feasible,  and  furnishing  data  on  which  to  base  an  estimate.  Supposing,  however,  that 
these  estimates  are  too  low,  and  that  the  price  at  the  terminus  is  $5  per  cord,  your  company 
can  supply  the  entire  demand  of  Virginia,  Gold  Hill  and  Silver  City  at  §10  per  cord.  lu 
Virgiaia  and  Gold  Hill  this  would  be  §4  per  cord  less  than  ruling  rates  to  large  consumers, 

25 


386  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

and  $6  or  $7  less  than  is  usually  paid  by  private  families,  and  would  certainly  control  the 
■entire  business,  shown  by  the  aecompanyiug  tables  to  be  as  follows : 

For  mills  as  per  schedule,  daily 223cord3. 

For  mines  as  per  schedule,  daily 72     " 

For  domestic  use fiO     " 

Total 355     " 

The  present  price  of  timber  and  lumber  for  mining  purposes  ranges  from  $28  to  $30  per 
1,000  feet,  board  measure. 

lu  the  report  of  the  county  assessor  to  the  surveyor  general  ofthe  State,  for  J866,  the  cost 
of  delivering  logs  and  manufacturing  them  into  lumber  at  Russell  &  Crowe's  mill,  at  Empire 
City,  is  given  at  $12  per  1,000  feet,  which  is  probably  not  far  from  a  correct  estimate.  These 
loE^s  are  tloated  down  the  Carson  river  a  distance  of  from  GO  to  100  miles,  from  the  forests  of 
Alpine  county,  California-  Lumber  can  be  manufactured  on  the  Truckee  at  rates  equally 
favorable,  thus  enabling  your  company  to  place  it  in  the  market  at  a  price  not  exceeding 
|!21  per  1,000  feet.  The  following  condensed  statement  shows  nearly  the  present  annual 
consumption : 

Required  by  mines 17, 91 0, 1 00  feet. 

Required  by  mills 920,000     " 

Required  for  other  purposes 5,  000,000     " 

Total 23,830,  100     " 

We  have  then  the  following  result  per  annum : 

Saving  on  127,800  cords  of  wood,  at  $5 $639,  000 

Saving  on  23,800,000  feet  lumber,  at  $7  per  1,000 IGG,  GOO 

Saving  on  30,000  tons  merchandise 90,  000 

895,  GOO 
equal  to  Si  50  on  every  ton  of  ore  raised  from  the  mines. 
We  again  quote  from  the  report  of  the  chief  engineer  : 

The  facilities  afforded  by  the  Truckee  river  will  doubtless  create  an  immense  business  in 
the  transportation  of  low-grade  ores  to  thai  river  for  reduction  by  water-power.  Competent 
judges  estiuiate  that  rock  yielding  $12  per  ton  can  be  reduced  with  profit  both  to  mine  and 
mill  by  taking  advantage  of  its  capabilities.  All  persons  at  all  familiar  with  our  mines  are 
aware  of  the  vast  amount  of  low-grade  ores  now  standing  in  the  Conistock  mines.  We 
believe  that  1,000  tons  of  this  class  of  ore  would  be  extracted  daily  in  a  short  period  after  the 
cumplt;tiou  of  the  road,  but  allowing  for  the  gradual  growth  of  the  traffic,  have  based  our 
estimate  on  500  tons  daily  for  the  iirst  year  of  operations. 

On  a  basis  of  500  tons  daily,  there  would  be  from  this  source  alone  an  increase 
on  the  annual  ]iroduction  of  bullion  as  follows  :  180,000  tons,  aveniging  $15 
per  ton,  S2, 700, 000  or,  supposing  the  quantity  to  be  increased  to  1,000  tons,  the 
amount  would  be  $5,400,000. 

This  bullion  can  be  secured  to  circulation  in  no  other  way. 

Neither  will  the  advantages  cease  at  this  point.  The  ability  to  Vv'ork  $15  ores 
to  advantage  will  imiDcdiately  enable  many  mines  at  present  lying  idle  to  resume 
operations,  and  ver\'  materially  lessen  the  aumial  assessment  list.  Neither  can 
it  be  doul)tcd  tliat  the  reduced  cost  of  working  will  gradually  caus(i  the  removal 
of  other  mills  to  tln^  'J'ruckee.  If  all  the  ores  were  worked  at  that  point  the 
saving  to  the  conununity  would  amount  to  upAvards  of  $1,000,000  per  annum, 
equal  to  nearly  seven  per  cent,  on  the  gross  yield  per  annum  of  the  Coinstock 
lode.  The  miniiuum  cost  of  mining  ores  has  probably  been  reached ;  we  must, 
therefore,  look  to  improvements  in  the  mode  and  cost  of  reduction,  as  an  otiset 
to  the  increased  expenditure  necessary  to  deeper  mining  operations,  if  we  would 
keep  cm*  net  profits  at  tlieir  present  position. 


WEST    or    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  387 

SECTIOX    XIX. 

THE    SIJTRO    TUNNEL. 

One  of  tho  most  important  enterprises  connected  -with  the  mining  interests  of 
the  l*acitic  coast  is  the  proposed  Sutro  tunnel,  briefly  refeiTed  to  in  prelim- 
inary report. 

Tlie  magnitude  of  the  work,  its  bearing  upon  the  future  yield  of  the  mines 
located  upon  the  Comstock  lode,  and  its  probable  influence  in  demonstrating  the 
continuity  of  mineral  lodes  in  depth,  in  other  parts  of  our  territory',  where  the 
conditions  ma}' be  similar,  have  been  set  forth  in  various  reports  upon  the  subject. 

The  iMcchanics'  Institute  of  San  Francisco,  a  body  composed  of  highly  intel- 
ligent men,  some  time  since  apjiointed  a  committee  to  make  a  report  upon  the 
proposed  tunnel,  as  being  a  work  beneficial  to  the  mechanical  interests  of  the 
coast.  The  f(dlowing  extracts  are  taken  from  the  report,  which  is  quite  an  elab- 
orate document : 

Yield  or  Bi'LLIon. — These  mires  have  now  a  wovlcl-wido  reputation  ;  the  yield  of  the 
precious  metals  from  the  Comstock  lode  far  exceeds  that  of  any  other  locality. 

The  animal  produce  for  the  past  five  years  has  been  in  round  numbers  as  follows  : 
1 862 $4, 000,  000 

i&t;:i 12,  oot),  000 

1804 16,  000, 000 

l^Go. 15,000,000 

1866 If!,  000,000 

Total  produce  in  five  years $fi3, 000,  OUO 

The  total  annual  production  of  silver  in  the  world  in  1P54  is  stated  by  Professor  Whitney 
at  S47,44:<,'2(i0.  The  bullion  obtained  from  the  Comstock  lode  in  ]8(3G  is,  therefore,  equal  to 
more  than  one-third  in  value  of  all  the  silver  produced  in  1854.  Mexico,  in  its  most  flour- 
•ishing  days,  from  1795  to  1810,  produced  an  annual  average  of  $24,000,000  from  several 
thousand  mines.  After  1810,  when  the  revolution  took  place,  the  yield  of  the  mines  fell  in 
some  years  to  as  low  a  f.gure  as  $4,500,000,  but  the  average  from  1810  to  182.5  shows 
$10,000,(100.  At  the  present  time  the  entire  product  of  Mexico  does  not  exceed  that  of  the 
Comstock  lode. 

The  celebrated  mines  of  Potosi  averaged  abont  $1,000,000  per  annum  for  300  years;  those 
on  the  Veta  Mad^e  (mother  vein)  of  Guanajuato  about  $:5,000,000  for  an  equal  period,  and 
the  mines  of  the  Real  del  Monte  Company,  on  the  Biscanya  vein  in  Mexico,  over  $400,000 
for  the  last  110  j-ears,  or  a  total  of  $44,000,000,  a  less  amount  than  has  been  obtained  from  Uie 
Comstock  lode  in  the  last  three  years. 

Profits  of  Mixing. — The  immense  yield  of  bullion  from  the  Comstock  lode  will  lead  one 
to  suppose  that  the  profits  realized  by  the  owners  have  been  proportional  to  the  yield,  but 
this  has  not  been  the  case.     / 

It  is  tnie  that  the  value  of  bullion  obtained  by  some  companies  has  greatly  exceeded  the 
current  expenses,  as,  for  example,  the  Gould  and  Curry  :  the  net  profits  of  which  amount  to 
over  $;5,000,000.  But  some  Oi.her  companies  have  ex  j)ended  large  sums  of  money  and  realized 
little,  and  some  nothing  at  all.  We  have  no  accurate  figures  for  the  earlier  ycar.'^,  but  com- 
paring the  dividends  with  the  assessments  levied,  we  find  that  the  aggregate  produce  of  the 
mines  has  been  swallowed  up  by  expenses.  In  lSti5thc  dividends  paid  amount  to $1,900,000, 
and  the  assessments  levied  to  $1,950,000,  or  $50,000  more  than  the  dividends. 

lu  18lK>  the  dividends  paid  werc$l,794,400;  the as.scssmeuts levied,  $l,2;W,o80.  Dividends 
over  assessments,  $oGJ.020.  In  the  first  years  of  operations  on  the  Comstock  lode,  the 
expenditures  for  machinery,  which  had  to  be  transpoi  led  from  California  across  the  .Sierra 
Nevada  moinitains,  for  the  erection  of  costly  re(lucti^)n  works,  and  for  other  permanent 
improvements,  together  with  the  extravagant  prices  j)aid  for  reducing  ores  in  a  very  impe;-fect 
manner,  absorbed  nearly  thi-  whole  produce.  Latterly,  thi;  only  increase  of  expense  has  been 
iu  mining  operations  ;  as  greater  depths  were  reached  a  largo  amount  of  prospecting  or  dead 
work  had  to  be  done,  and  additions  made  to  the  pumping  and  hoisting  machineiy,  almost 
counterbalancing  the  reduction  in  the  cost  of  crushing  the  ore,  of  labor,  and  of  freight,  and 
we  consequently  find  that  tb.e  aggregate  profits  of  the  mines  at  the  end  of  the  last  year  bear 
but  a  small  ratio  to  the  production. 

Tlie  cost  of  labor  and  of  reducing  ores  will  gradually  diminish  from  year  to  3-ear,  and  on  the 
completion  of  the  Central  Pacific  railroad  frc^n  Sacramento  to  the  valley  of  the  Truckeo  river, 
which  will  certainly  be  etfected  in  the  year  1808,  the  price  of  transportation  from  San  Francisco 
to  the  mines  will  not  be  more  than  one-third  of  the  average  rates  heretofore  paid.  But  wc  do 
not  believe  that  any  reduction  of  expenses  on  these  items  which  can  be  made  will  be  sufficient 
to  meet  the  increased  cost  of  Avorking  the  mines,  after  a  few  years,  when  greater  depths  are 


''A.vii' 


388  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

attained,  if  the  present  .system  of  pumping  out  the  water,  and  of  raising  the  ore  and  refuse 
through  shafts  to  the  surface,  is  continued. 

In  the  late  report  of  R.  PI.  Stretch,  esq,,  State  mineralogist  of  Nevada,  we  find  it  stated 
that  47  steam  engines  are  now  iu  operation  on  the  Comstock  lode,  which  answer  all  the  present 
requirements,  but  every  addition  to  the  depth  demands  additional  power,  correspondent 
augmentation  of  capital  invested  in  machinery,  and  a  larger  annual  demand  for  fuel.  The 
little  wood  there  was  originally  in  tlie  vicinity  of  A''irginia'City  wa'^  long  since  exhausted  ;  it 
has  now  to  bo  obtained  almost  exclusively  from  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  moun- 
tains, and  as  the  nearer  timber  is  destroyed,  it  must  be  hauled  a  greater  distance  and  at  an 
increased  price. 

If  we  take  into  consideration  the  cost  of  machinery,  of  annual  additions  and  repairs,  and 
of  consumption  of  fuel,  wages  of  employes,  delays  caused  by  breaking  of  pumps,  expense  of 
explorations,  obstacles  in  c-ecuring  good  ventilation  and  increase  of  heat  with  the  depth,  and 
the  financial  result  of  past  years,  we  are  forced  to  the  conclusion  that  the  mode  now  adopted 
of  working  these  mines  cannot  long  be  prosecuted  with  profit  to  the  owners. 

The  result  of  similar  operations  in  other  countries,  as  furnished  by  Humboldt,  Ward,  St. 
Clair  Duport,  and  other  writers,  conveys  an  instructive  lesson  to  persons  interested  in  min- 
ing enterprises.  These  authorities  agree  that  mining  from  the  surface  must  always  prove 
suicidal  to  the  interests  of  the  owners  when  the  position  of  the  mines  will  allow  theconstmc- 
tion  of  adits  or  tunnels,  which  will  drain  the  water,  ventilate  the  mines,  and  diminish  the  cost 
of  removing  the  ore  and  valueless  material. 

Humboldt,  in  his  "Assay  Politique  sur  la  Nouvelle  Espagne,"  published  in  180.3,  inrefer- 
ence  to  the  Vcta  Madro  of  Guanajuato,  a  lode  much  resembling  the  Comstock,  exclaims: 

"It  is,  indeed,  strange  that  mines  of  such  richness  have  no  tunnels  for  draining,  when  the 
neighboring  ravines  of  Cata  and  Marfil  and  the  plains  of  Tumascalio,  which  are  below  the 
level  of  the  lowest  works  of  the  Valenciana  mine,  would  seem  to  invite  the  miner  to  com- 
mence works  which  would  servo  for  drainage,  and  at  the  same  time  afford  facilities  for  trans- 
porting materials  to  the  smelting  and  amalgamation  works." 

A  gentleman  of  intelligence,  whom  Humboldt  questioned  in  regard  to  this  want  of  wisdom, 
replied  "that  the  excavation  <if  a  general  tunnel  would  be  a  work  very  expensive,  and  per- 
haps impossible,  on  account  of  the  want  of  union  among  the  proprietors  of  the  different  mines.''' 

The  Valenciana  Mine. — Upon  this  lode  is  located  the  celebrated  Valenciana  mine, 
which,  according  to  Humboldt,  was  first  opened  by  Obregon,  a  young  Spaniard,  who,  with- 
out means,  commenced  prospecting  on  a  part  of  tho  vein  which  up  to  that  time  had  been . 
unproductive. 

Alter  undergoing  many  privations,  he  at  last  struck  an  immense  body  of  ore,  from  which 
alone  was  extracted,  from  the  1st  of  January,  1787,  to  tho  11th  of  June,  1791,  the  sum  of 
$14,764,492  of  silver,  out  of  lo4,988  tons  of  ore.  l!>enor  Obregon,  afterwards  known  as  the 
Count  of  Valenciana,  became  tho  richest  man  in  Mexico,  and  probably  iu  the  world,  at  that 
time.  As  greater  depths  were  attained,  the  increase  of  expense  became  such  that  the  mine 
cea.sed  to  yield  a  profit,  and  before  ihe  breaking  out  of  the  revolution  in  181?),  it  was  allowed 
to  fill  with  earth  and  water.  Iu  1825,  this  mine,  together  with  many  others,  fell  into  the 
bands  of  a  wealthy  English  company,  who  expended  21  months  iu  draining  it  of  water,  but 
the  expenses  of  mining  and  pumping  were  so  great  that  after  some  years  the  lower  works 
were  again  abaudniied. 

Tm;  En(iI,isii  Real  del  Month  Company. — The  most  reqjarkable  and  disastrous  expe- 
rience made  by  any  foreign  company  in  Mexico  has  been  that  of  the  English  Real  del  Moute 
Company. 

They  became,  in  the  year  182:',  the  possessors  of  the  Biscanya  and  several  other  veins,  the 
former  ha\  ing  been  worked  for  many  years,  and  having  yielded  lurge  amounts  of  silver, 
prior  to  1749.  At  that  date  an  intelligent  miner,  named  Bustamente,  concluded  to  run  an 
adit,  or  tunnel,  iu  order  to  etl'ect  their  drainage.  Ho  labored  long  and  patiently,  and  was 
supplied  with  means  by  Don  Pedro  Ttrreros,  who  continued  the  work  after  the  decease  of 
Bustamente.  In  1759  tho  vein  was  reached,  after  running  a  tunnel  9,000  feet  in  length, 
cutting  the  vein  at  a  depth  of  (iOO  feet  beneath  the  surface,  and  exposing  to  view  an  immense 
body  of  ore.  Tcrrero.'?,  iu  the  12  succeeding  years,  drew  from  Iiis  mines  a  clear  profit  of 
$6,000,000;  he  obtained  the;  title  of  Count  of  Kegla  by  the  munificence  of  his  donations  to 
the  Court  of  Madrid;  he  presented  Charles  III  with  two  ships  of  the  line,  (one  of  112  guns, 
coustvucted  at  Havana  of  the  most  costly  material,)  and  accommodated  him  besides  with  a 
loan  of  $1,000,000,  no  [lart  of  which  has  boon  repaid. 

His  successor,  the  second  count,  continued  the  working  of  the  mines,  but  not  with  equal 
profit,  for  tho  upper  portious  of  the  vein  being  worked  out,  he  was  compelled  to  go  below  the 
adit,  and  the  water  encountered  required  1,200  horses  to  pump  it  out,  at  an  annual  expendi- 
ture of  $i2.'>0,000.  After  stniggling  for  manj-  years,  and  alter  a  depth  of  324  feet  under  the 
adit  had  been  reached,  the  woik  was  abandoned,  and  the  mine  allowed  to  fill  with  water. 

It  was  in  this  state  when  tho  English  Real  del  Monte  Company  took  possession;  they 
expected,  by  substituting  powerful  steam  machinery  for  tho  horse  whims  which  had  been 
employed  by  the  Mexicans,  to  make  the  mines  again  profitable.  Tho  result,  however,  was 
very  disastrous,  for  in  the  2'.«  years  they  held  the  mines  tho  expenditures  were  $15,381, 633; 
while  the  total  yield  was  1^10,481,475,  showing  a  loss  of  nearly  $5,000,000. 


jAhS^aillM^, 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  389 

They  first  prrctcd  two  steam  enpiucs  of  n()-ineli  cjliuders  each,  which  freed  the  mine  from 
wiiter  to  ti  dejith  tif  3x.'4  feet  under  the  adit ;  at  this  point  another  one  was  rennired  and  erected 
of  r)4-inoli  cylinder,  by  which  the  working  was  carried  to  724  feet  under  the  adit;  but  here 
ag^aiii.tlie  eii<jines  were  overpowered,  and  still  another  encrine  ot"7r)-inch  cylinder  was  erected. 

Mr.  John  ISuelian,  the  superintendent  of  the  mine,  in  one  of  his  reports,  n\ado  in  \8i'>2,  says: 

"Alter  the  mine  had  I'eachcd  a  depth  of  710  feet  under  the  udit  (l,l!I()  feet  below  the  sur- 
face) the  ditKculties  of  drainage  had  so  increased,  both  from  augmented  quantity  of  water 
and  the  greater  height  to  raise  it  to  the  point  of  disciiarge,  that  three  powerful  steam  engines 
could  barely  stem  the  coming  waters  of  the  mine. 

"With  the  increased  difiieulty  of  drainage,  seeing  three  bunches  of  ore  worked  out,  and 
a  debt  of  S.'),l)tiO,UUO  still  iintstanding,  it  is  not  surprising  that  the  energy  and  perseverance 
of  the  Engli.sh  adventurers  were  at  last  exhausted. 

"  Had  the  company  prosecuted  u  projected  deeper  drain  tunnel,  it  would  have  secured  the 
continued  prosperity  of  the  mines  for  many  j'oars  to  come.  It  will  be  remembered  that  the 
lirst  Count  of  Kegla  distinguished  himself  and  made  the  fortune  of  his  family  by  driving 
the  present  adit;  the  second  count  reached  down  '.i-i\  fret  below  it,  being  the  limit  to  wliich 
the  mines  could  be  worked  with  profit  by  horse  power  drainage.  The  English  company,  by 
the  powerful  aid  of  steam  machinery,  carried  down  the  workings  to  720  feet  below  the  adit; 
but  here  wo  find  another  limit  to  profitable  working,  as  the  deeper  excavations  of  the  Cis- 
canya  vein  are  again  abandoned  to  till  with  water. 

"  A  deeper  adit,  which  had  to  be  driven  a  distance  of  i;?,500  feet,  had  been  commenced  by 
the  second  count.  The  English  company  unfortunately  adopted  the  moro  speedy  plan,  as  it 
was  supposed,  of  employing  steam  engines,  instead  of  the  slower  but  surer  plan  of  driving 
home  the  deep  adit,  which  could  have  been  done  with  the  investment  of  but  little  more 
capital  than  that  e.xpended  in  applying  steam  engines,  and  would  no  doubt  have  given  a 
very  ditferent  turn  to  the  fortune  of  that  company." 

Mr.  W.  P.  Kobertson  thus  relates  the  financial  history  of  this  company: 

"The  London  Real  del  Monte  Company  commenced  working  on  a  magnificent  scale; 
then,  under  the  influence  of  a  panic,  suddenly  deserted,  in  the  most  critical  time,  their  judi- 
cious and  indefatigable  agent  at  the  mine,  and  the  result  has  been  unmitigated  ruin.  The 
nmuia  in  Loudon  at  the  time  ( lrt'j;i  to  1^2."))  was  so  strong  and  so  general  that  r.o  expenditure 
wa.s  for  a  moment  grudged.  People  thought  they  were  laying  out  tens  to  receive  back 
thousands,  so  they  i>aid  up  their  tens  with  surprising  alacrity.  The  management  in  London 
of  many  of  the  new  companies  under  the  reaction  was  miserably  bad,  and  in  the  end  many 
of  the  shareholders  wore  completely  ruined  and  retired  to  cottages,  there  to  abandon  forever 
their  '  Chateaux  en  Espagne.' 

"In  1625,  the  late  Mr.  Kinder,  the  enthusiastic  leader  of  the  Real  del  Monte  Company, 
was  offered  $S,000  for  each  of  liis  30  shares  of  .$500  paid  tip  in  that  concern  ;  he  refused  to 
sell,  that  is,  he  would  not  take  §240,000  for  what  liad  cost  him  $l''>,'JOO.  The  reaction  set 
in,  and  down  went  all  shares.  In  ]845-'46,  those  of  Real  del  Monte  were  to  be  had  at 
$12  50  each;  that  is,  Mr.  Kinder's  ;50  shares,  which  in  1825  were  worth  .$240,000,  had  grad- 
ually dwindled  down  to  $1575!  The  company  was  all  but  bankrupt ;  no  moro  assessments 
were  listened  to  ;  and  tlie  debts  could  not  be  paid  with  unsalable  engines,  though  they  kept 
up  the  steam,  nor  yet  with  stones,  although  silver  was  in  them.  The  shares  have  since  gone 
to  nil;  no  one  will  have  them  fenced  in,  as  they  are  with  unknown  responsibilities  and 
debts.  In  vain  did  their  new,  active,  intelligent,  and  enterprising,  though  pnident  manager 
and  agent,  Mr.  Buclian,  write  to  the  shareholders  to  take  heart  and  not  to  throw  away  their 
property.  Tliey  had  been  panic-stricken  in  the  first  instance,  they  liad  got  sick  of  the 
business  in  the  second,  and  in  this  last  and  most  helpless  fit,  they  entered  into  negotiations 
for  the  sale  of  the  projierty  to  a  Mexican  company.  A  bargaiti  was  s'tnick,  a-nd  the  perpetual 
lease  of  Real  del  Monte,  with  everything  on  it,  passcil  from  the  hands  of  the  Real  del  Alonto 
bondholders  for  an  old  song.  'J'ho  entioi  sum  paid  was  .tii:!O,00O,  for  a  business  on  which 
4^7,000,000  had  first  and  last  been  expended;  and  even  of  the  mite  to  be  recovered,  three- 
fourths  were  not  to  go  into  the  liands  of  the  bondholders  at  all,  but  to-be  appropriated  in 
Real  del  Alonte  itself  in  tin;  licptidation  of  sums  still  due  to  the  servants  of  the  old  company. 
What  a  winding  up  1  Shares  onco  worth  $8,000  each,  now  not  worth  :>0  cents  I  and  the 
actual  movable  iirojierty  on  the  estate,  in  hou.ses,  worksiiops,  machinery,  crushing  estal)lish- 
ment,  timber,  wood,  iron  implements,  utensils,  steam  eugiues,  horses,  iiorned  cattle,  mules, 
and  many  valuable  miscellaneous  materials,  must  be  worth  altogether  some  millions  of 
dollars.  The  house  of  Regla  alone  cost  a  million  and  a  half,  and  now  is  valued  at  a  million 
of  dollars— all  gone  for  .sl;;ii,000. 

"Thus  did  Real  del  Monte  pass  from  the  Counts  of  Regla  in  Mexico,  and  thus  has  it 
passed  from  the  luckless  shareholders  in  London — the  first  i)aying  the  pemilty  of  jiersonal 
extravagance,  the  other  an  etpially  severe  one  of  wild  speculation  and  injudicious  manage- 
ment. It  is  now  in  wi>er  liands  than  theirs,  and  prosperity  dawns  again  on  this  almost 
national  establishment  or  colony." 

This  history  of  the  Real  del  Monte  mine  teaches  a  valuable  lesson,  confirmed  by  the  result 
of  almost  every  similar  enterprise  in  Mexico.  They  show  that  after  a  certain  depth  has  been 
reached  and  no  drain  tunuels  constructed,  the  mines  have  been  abandoned  and  the  proprie- 
tors ruined. 


.:,'t\/^ii'^v_ 


390  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

St.  Clair  Diiport,  who  published  a  work  on  the  mines  of  Mexico  in  1843,  gives  a  general 
sketch  of  mining  operations,  which  is  a  perfect  representation  of  recent  experience  iu  Cali- 
fornia and  Nevada.     He  says : 

"Opening  a  mine  by  accident,  somebody  discovers,  guided  by  the  croppings  elevated 
above  the  soil,  quartz  containing  some  metal.  He  exposes  some  pieces  to  white  heat,  and  if 
he  discovers  thereon  globules,  or  pearls  of  silver,  be  takes  up  the  claim.  The  discoverer 
now  seeks  partners  with  capital  to  woik  this  claim,  as  generally  the  means  of  one  man  are 
not  sufficient  for  such  an  enterprise.  At  first  they  generally  seek  to  extract  the  ore  by  fol- 
lowing down  on  the  vein,  and  open  a  number  of  shal"ts  along  its  course  ;  but  in  the  same  ratio 
as  these  shafts  increase  in  depth  the  water  increases  too  ;  galleries  and  new  shafts  become 
necessary,  and  finally,  as  is  generally  the  case  when  the  largest  portion  of  the  yield  has  been 
expended  in  such  operations,  particularly  iu  mines  which  are  not  extraordiuarily  rich  in 
minerals,  the  work  has  to  stop  on  account  of  bad  air  and  abundance  of  water,  the  improve- 
ments being  of  no  farther  use. 

"The  owners  now  look  fur  new  partners  ;  if  the  vein  presents  probabilities  of  richness  at 
a  greater  depth,  persons  can  be  found  who,  for  a  portion  of  the  stock,  generally  for  half, 
advance  the  necessary  means,  which  is  to  be  repaid  out  of  the  first  yield  of  the  mine. 

"After  the  water  has  been  removed,  and  the  shafts  and  galleries  are  made,  and  really  rich 
ore  is  found,  then  oommences  the  good  time  of  the  mine.  Arrived  at  a  depth  where  silver 
generally  is  abundant,  and  when  the  expenses  to  bring  the  water  and  ore  to  the  surface  are 
not  too  great,  mining  is  a  good  paying  business  ;  that  is  what  is  called  iu  the  miner's  lan- 
guage 'ia  bonanza.^  This  time  is  hoped  for  with  ardent  desire,  not  only  by  the  owners  of  the 
mine  and  the  miners  employed,  but  also  by  the  entire  neighborhood.  In  this  ca'^e  labor,  and 
all  necessary  articles  for  mining,  are  in  demand,  and  well  paid  for;  the  money  earned  with 
ease  is  spent  freely,  and  everybody  in  the  whole  mining  region  having  any  claims  is  full  of 
hopes  to  strike  it  equally  rich.  The  buildings  for  the  reduction  of  ores  are  now  erected,  and 
veiy  ol'ten  in  a  style  altogt'ther  too  costly  for  their  use.  Next,  underground  works  are  con- 
structed to  facilitate  the  hoisting  of  ore  and  water.  In  case  the  mines  in  '^owawza' belong  to 
private  individuals,  these  works  are  executed  on  a  substantial  basis,  with  a  view  of  useful- 
ness for  the  future.  But  in  most  cases,  when  a  mine  is  divided  amongst  a  number  of  share- 
liolders,  they  present  such  a  diversity  of  ideas  that  they  often  cannut  a*ree  upon  tiuythiugat 
all,  except  to  extract  the  most  money  from  their  mine  iu  the  shortest  time  possible,  without 
even  looking  ahead  for  a  few  months.  For  this  reason  we  cannot  find  one  single  well- 
worked  gallery  in  sucli  mines.  The  richest  ore  is  torn  from  the  mine,  and  less  rich  ore 
remains  untouched  to  be  taken  out  when  'la  boiianza'  ceases.  It  is  difficult  to  understand 
why  in  times  of  prosperity  a  small  portion  of  the  yield  is  not  spent  to  make  new  developments. 

Abandonment  of  the  Mine. — "  The  pay  streak  once  traversed,  and  the  increased  depth 
rendering  the  price  of  extraction  too  considerable,  the  'bonanza'  ceases.  The  less  rich  oi^e 
left  in  the  mine  is  now  taken  out,  and  one  of  the  greatest  expenses  being  the  keeping  down 
of  the  water,  the  lower  qualities  of  ore  are  abandoned. 

"The  reserved  middle  class  of  ores  will  pay  cxjieuses  to  explore  the  mine  for  awhile,  but 
the  time  arrives  when  a  day's  work,  or  the  value  of  a  pound  of  ore,  ceases  to  pay,  and  the 
mine  is  thereafter  entirely  abandoned." 

The  author  of  the  above  description  of  mining  operations  in  Mexico,  written  2')  years  ago, 
could  not  have  given  a  more  truthful  account  of  operations  in  the  Comstock  lode  had  he 
spent  the  last  six  or  seven  years  in  Virginia  City.  Our  mining  companies  have  been  pur- 
suing exactly  the  same  course,  and  have  followed  in  the  footsteps  of  their  Mexican  prede- 
cessors. Ruin  of  the  owners  and  abandonment  of  the  mines  has  been  the  result  there  ;  ruin 
and  abandonment  must  follow  upon  the  suicidal  course  pursued  here. 

MiNiNt;  IN  Europe. — If  we  turn  to  Europe,  however,  we  find  that  mining  is  carried  on 
w^ith  intelligence,  economy,  and  with  a  view  to  permanencj'.  In  England  but  few  mines 
are  located  at  any  considerable  elevatitui  above  sea  level,  and  deep  drainage  by  adits  is 
impossible.  I3ut  each  mine  has  its  adit,  however  small  its  depth  may  be  beneath  the  surface, 
and  in  stating  the  depth  of  shafts  iii  England  they  are  given  from  the  adit  downwards  ;  what 
is  above  the  adit  is  not  counted  at  all. 

The  most  rcnnarkablo  work  of  this  kind  in  Great  Britain  is  the  great  adit  in  Cornwall,  of 
which  an  English  writer  says : 

"The  advantages  of  working  mines  by  adits  are  well  shown  at  the  United  mines,  near 
Redruth,  where  an  adit  has  been  driven,  connneiicing  only  u  few  feet  above  the  sea  level, 
which,  with  its  bianches,  has  a  length  of  I'rom  30  to  40  miles,  and  a  depth  under  the  mines 
of  from  180  to  4-JU  feet.  ]?y  means  of  this  work  a  saving  in  the  consumption  of  coal  is 
effected  amounting  to  '24,000  tons  per  annum.  This  magnificent  undertaking  was  completed 
in  1768." 

Mines  in  Germanv.— The  mines  in  Germany  present  by  far  the  finest  field  for  studying 
mining  operations  reduced  to  a  science.  'Ihere  mining  schools  and  learned  professors  have 
for  years  prepared  young  men,  who  were  to  bo  placed  in  charge  of  mines,  with  a  thorough 
knowledge  of  all  the  varied  branches  required  ot  mining  engineers.  It  is  owing  quite  as 
much  to  intelligent  management  as  to  the  low  rates  of  wages  that  mines  arc  profitably 
worked  in  Germany  which  would  be  considered  valueless  iu  California  or  Nevada.  There 
wc  SCO  the  most  complete  systems  of  drainage  and  ventilation,  and  mines  placed  beyond  the 


"WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  391 

usual  contingpncies  of  such  cutcrprises,  yielding  nearly  uniform  dividends,  and  regarded  by 
capitalists  as  <rood  security  for  investment. 

Tm:  Fkikiu'.iu;  District. — A  few  years  since  it  was  proposed  to  drain  theFriebcrg  min- 
ing district  by  an  tulit-iove!  of  tUo  extraordinary  leus^tli  of  2\  miles,  which  would  cut  the 
vein  at  a  mean  dcptli  of  2,000  feet.  Tiiis  phin  was  vigorously  supported  by  Von  Beust  and 
other  eminent  mining  engineers,  and  received  the  sanction  of  lue  Sax(ui  government.  This 
gigantic  work  lias  not  yet  been  commenced,  but  a  deep  adit  is  now  being  driven,  which  will 
drain  the  mines  -lUO  fei't  below  the  present  deepest  natural  drainage,  ami  will  iiave  a  length 
of  a  little  over  eigiit  miles.  It  is  eight  feet  wide,  nearly  10  fuet  high,  and  rises  in  the  whole 
distance  12  feet  (i  inches. 

In  the  Ilarz  di-^trict  some  mines  have  attained  an  immense  depth.  The  mine  of  Andreas- 
berg  has  a  depth  of  2,4rtO  feet,  being  one  of  the  deepest  mines  in  the  world  ;  adits  have  been 
there  for  centuries,  the  largest  of  which  was  completed  three  years  ago. 

The  Frnst  August  Tuxnkl. — We  make  the  following  condensed  extract  from  a  report 
made  by  Dr.  Geissler  concerning  this  great  work,  called  the  Ernst  August  tunnel,  after  the 
late  King  of  Hanover: 

"On  the  *2"Jd  of  June,  1 8154,  a  drain  tunnel  was  completed  which  may  be  called  the  great- 
est work  of  the  kind  ever  executed.  To  explain  its  objects  and  importance  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  give  the  following  details: 

"The  mines  of  the  Harz  were  about  to  be  abandoned,  or,  more  properly  speaking,  about 
to  be  drowned  out  by  water  beyond  redemption.  In  the  course  of  time  the  explorations  in 
those  mines  went  deeper  and  deeper,  until  they  reached  a  depth  of  2,000  feet.  While  the 
higher  situated  galleries  ceased  to  yield  pay  ore  in  sufficient  quantity,  the  exceedingly  rich 
ores  discovered  iu  the  lowest  levels  could  not  be  reached  on  account  of  great  bodies  of  water, 
which  pumps  and  engines  could  not  master,  and  the  lower  levels  had  to  be,  for  the  time 
being,  abandoned.- 

"  There  have  been  drain  tunnels  in  the  ITarz  for  a  long  time,  which  were  used  as  canals 
for  the  transportation  of  ores.  Already  at  the  c«mmeucement  of  the  Kith  century  mechani- 
cal means  to  remove  the  water  from  the  mines  were  insufHcient,  and  drain  tunnels  were  con- 
structed at  that  early  period.  The  first  tunnel  was  commenced  in  1525,  another  iu  1.548,  one 
in  155J,  and  still  another  in  1573.  By  aid  of  these  tunnels  mining  was  continued  iu  those 
districts  for  200  years,  but  about  the  middle  of  the  last  century  it  became  difficult  again  to 
master  the  water. 

"  Iti  lld'J  another  deep  tunnel — having  a  length,  including  galleries,  of  57,000  feet,  or 
nearly  11  miles — was  completed.  But  this  also,  afterwards,  was  considered  insufficient  for 
future  purposes,  for  notwithstanding  additional  engines  might  have  been  used  for  a  while, 
their  dimen.sions  and  cost  in  mines  which  had  reached  such  an  enormous  depth  would  have 
been  very  great.  And.  after  all,  the  surest  and  cheapest  way  for  water  to  be  removed  is  by 
its  natural  flow ;  the  engines  have  enough  to  do  in  pumping  the  water  up  to  the  Ernst  August 
tunnel,  as  that  gives  the  deepest  natural  drainage  which  can  ever  be  obtained. 

DF.ScniPTlox  OF  Tuxne:l.  —  "In  1850,  after  careful  surveys  and  due  consideration,  the 
construction  of  the  Ernst  August  Tunnel  was  resolved  upon ;  it  was  to  commence  at  Gittelde, 
a  little  town  at  the  foot  of  the  Harz  mountains,  and  it  was  estimated  that  22  j'ears  would  be 
required  for  its  completion,  but  it  only  took  a  little  over  half  that  time,  for  it  was  entirely 
completed  in  12  yi-ars  and  11  months.  Kiue  shafts  had  been  sunk,  from  which  18  gal- 
leries or  drifts  were  run,  and  one  from  the  mouth,  so  that  the  work  progressed  from  19  diti'er- 
eut  points.  The  connections  were  made  with  such  perfection  that  they  could  not  be  recog- 
nized aiter  they  were  completed. 

"This  tunnel  has  a  uniform  fall  of  5  -1%  inches  to  each  630  feet,  or  1  in  1,400;  its  height 
is  eight  feet  three  inches  ;  its  width,  five  feet  six  inches,  and  its  shape  that  of  an  egg.  'i'he 
water  has  a  sufficient  depth  to  allow  the  use  of  long  flat-boats,  for  the  transportation  of  ore. 
A  part  of  the  water-course  is  covered  over,  to  be  used  as  a  sidewalk  for  the  miners." 

Nkckssitv  oi' A  TUXXKL  TO  THE  CoM.STOCK  h(tuv.. — We  have,  thus  far  reviewed  the 
Jesuits  of  mining  experience  where  drain  tunnels  have  not  been,  and  where  they  have  been 
constructed,  and  the  conclusion  your  conmiittee  arrives  at  is,  that  a  deep  drain  tunnel  to  the 
Comstock  lode  will  not  only  greatly  facilitate  mining  operations,  but  is  an  ab.solute  necessity ; 
the  sotmer  it  is  constructed  the  more  benefit  will  be  derived  therefrom,  and  without  it  nothing 
is  more  certain  than  the  abandonment  of  those  mines  before  the  Lapse  of  many  years. 

The  necessity  of  the  tunnel  having  been  sufficiently  demonstrated,  it  remains  to  show  that 
the  ore  which  will  probiiiily  be  obtained  fromtiiese  mines  will  justify  thcco.st  of  construction. 

The  first  question  to  be  examined  is.  whether  the  ore  in  the  Comstock  lode  extends  to  an 
unlimited  depth.  This  question  has  been  so  ably  handled  by  Baron  liiciithofeu,  an  eminent 
geologist  of  the  highest  European  reputation,  that  we  content  ourselves  by  giving  some 
extracts  from  a  letter  written  by  him  upon  this  subject,  in  February,  18(55,  and  jiublished  in 
one  of  the  pamphlets  issued  by  the  Sutro  Tunnel  Company.  For  a  more  detailed  account 
of  the  geology  of  the  Washoe  country  we  refer  to  his  able  report,  to  be  seen  on  the  tables  of 
this  institute. 

CoXTiNUiTY  OF  THE  CoMSTOCK  LoDE. — The  learned  Caron.says:  "The  value  of  a  deep 
tunnel  will,  of  course,  chiefly  depend  upon  the  question  whether  these  mines  will  ever  be 
worked  to  considerable  depth ;  that  is,  whether  the  Comstock  vein  will  extend  far  down,  and 


392  KESOUKCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

■whether  it  will  retain  its  metalliferous  character  in  depth.  Both  questions  ivill  have  to  be 
decided  from  the  study  of  the  structure  and  nature  of  the  Comstock  vein,  and  from  compar- 
ing the  results  with  the  observations  at  such  mines  in  other  countries  ■which  have  already 
been  worked  to  great  depth.  My  experience  on  the  Comstock  vein  is  based  on  close  and 
repeated  examinations  of  nearly  all  the  mines  on  its  course.  I  believe  I  concur  with  almost 
everybody  who  has  had  equal  experience  about  them,  in  the  opinion  that  it  is  a  true  fissure 
vein,  of  extraordinary  length,  and  extending  downwards  much  further  than  any  mining 
works  will  ever  be  able  to  be  carried  on.  It  would  be  too  lengthy  to  enumerate  the  various 
reasons  which  lead  most  positively  to  this  conclusion.  It  is  now  assumed  almost  universally 
as  a  fact,  and  tJae  number  of  those  who  consider  it  as  a  gash  vein,  or  a  system  of  gash  veins, 
is  fast  diminishing. 

"As  to  the  downward  continuance  of  the  ore-bearing  character,  every  instance  goes  to 
show  that  the  average  yield  in  precious  metals  remains. about  the  same  at  every  depth. 
Some  mines  had  accumulations  of  ore  near  the  surface,  (Ophir,  Mexican,  Gold  Hill;)  in 
others  they  commenced  very  near  under  tlie  surface,  (Gould  and  Curry,  Potosi,  Yellow 
Jacket,  Belcher;)  at  others,  again,  considerable  work  had  to  be  done  before  bodies  of  ore  of 
any  amount  were  struclf,  (Chollar,  the  southern  part  of  Gold  Hill,  Uncle  Sam,  and  others;) 
and  some  which  had  no  ore  heretofore,  appear  to  l)ave  good  prospects  to  find  it  soon.  The 
tact  that  some  rich  bodies  of  ore,  which  were  found  near  the  surface,  gave  out  at  a  depth  of 
a  few  hundred  feet,  induced  the  common  belief  that  the  Comstock  vein  was  becoming  poorer 
in  its  lower  parts.  But  the  cxi)lorutious  ot  the  last  few  months  have  entirely  defeated  this 
opinion.  On  the  contrary,  the  enormous  amount  of  bullion  which  is  being  produced  by  the 
mines  at  present  niay  almost  appear  to  prove  that  the  vein  is  improving  in  depth.  But  this 
conclusion  is  probably  equally  fallacious,  as  it  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  many  mines  Viave 
been  developed  at  diti'erentle^■els  and  ore  is  being  extracted  from  several  of  those.  Hoisting 
works  and  the  mode  of  extracting  the  ore  have  also  been  improved,  and  of  course  help  to 
increase  tlie  daily  produce.  This  average  equality  of  the  produce  of  the  vein  at  ditFerent 
levels  is  not  only  true  for  the  amount  of  ore  extracted  but  also  for  its  yield.  The  rich  body 
of  ore  in  the  Ophir  and  Mexican  mines  forms  the  only  exception  to  this  rule,  as  none  of  equal 
average  percentage  in  silver  and  gold  has  been  found  again.  Even  the  relative  proportion 
of  gold  and  silver  in  the  ore  has  not  undergone  any  material  change,  though  the  bullion,  on 
account  of  the  more  imperfect  process  of  reduction,  contained  at  first  proportionally  more 
gold  than  at  present. 

"There  is  no  reason  to  doubt  that  the  equality  of  average  produce  and  yield  throughout 
the  entire  length  of  the  vein  will  contimre  downward  to  any  depth  ;  besides  the  very  obvi- 
ous theoretical  conclusion  that  vast  amounts  of  silver  could  not  be  carried  into  the  fissure 
from  the  overlying  or  enclosing  rocks,  but  naturally  had  to  rise  from  uidvnown  depths, 
through  the  channel  of  the  fissure  itself,  to  be  deposited  in  it  where  the  conditions  lor  sivbli- 
mation  or  precipitation  were  given  in  its  open  space;  experience  in  other  countries  by  no 
means  shows  of  a  regular  decrease  or  increase  in  yield  as  of  common  occurrence,  though 
either  of  th.em  may  happen.  More  commonly,  the  produce  of  true  fissure  veins  in  precious 
metals  has  been  found  to  be  about  constant." 

The  Baron  wrote  the  above  over  two  years  ago;  the  explorations  made  since  that  time  in 
the  Hale  and  Norcross  and  other  mines,  strongly  confirm  the  views  expressed  by  him. 

Nearly  all  writers  who  have  specially  studied  the  question  of  the  continuance  of  mineral 
veins  in  depth  have  arrived  at  the  same  conclusion.  We  will  give  an  extract  upon  this  s"ab- 
ject  from  an  eminent  French  writer,  M.  Burat.     He  says:  ■ 

"In  all  countries  where  isolated  veins  are  worked,  a  large  number  of  them  have  been 
abandoned  and  taken  up  again  ;  abandoned  because  accidents  or  barren  streaks  rendered  the 
working  burdensome,  and  afterwards  taken  up  again,' when  thi^y  have,  by  the  aid  of  capital, 
been  made  productive  mines.  The  sanre  veins  have  been  declared  to  be  rich  or  exhausted 
for  these  ri'asous  at  diiferent  times ;  exhausted  always  when  the  owners  were  discouraged, 
and  rich  after  the  execution  of  further  works  had  pierced  tlie  barren  places.  These  are  the 
facts  of  which  we  will  lelate  several  examples,  and  by  which  we  intend  to  prove  that  each, 
reworking  of  a  vein  after  an  abandonment  more  or  less  long,  bears  witness  of  the  continuity 
of  mineral  veins  in  depth." 

Burat  and  other  pnnninent  writers  recite  numerous  instances  of  this  kind,  but  wo  cannot 
give  place  to  them  in  this  report, 

THE   .SITRO   TUNNEL. 

The  proposed  tunnel  begins  Hi  miles  below  Dayton,  between  CoiTal  and  Webber  caiions. 
The  distance  from  the  mouth  of  the  titnmd  fi  the  Savage  Works  is  a  little  over  four  miles,  but 
as  the  .Comstock  lode  dips  to  the  east,  it  will  be  cut  in  20,178  feet.  It  will  pass  through  the 
different  ledges  in  Silver  Star  and  ot'ier  districts  nearly  at  right  angles.  Allowing  a  grade 
of  one  inch  in  ](JU  feet,  or  four  and  four-tcjilhs  feet  per  mile,  it  will  be  l,y-:i2  feet  below  the 
floor  of  the  Savage  Works.  The  topography  of  the  country  is  admirably  adapted  for  sinking 
shaits,  four  of  which  are  irrojiosed  to  be  put  down.  They  will  not  only  supply  the  tunnel 
with  tresh  air,  but  will  greatly  expedite  work,  as  drifts  can  be  run  each  way  after  reaching 
the  grade  of  the  tunnel.  The  distance  of  the  first  shaft  from  the  mouth  of  the  tunnel  is  4,070 
feet;   depth,  443  feet;  second  shaft  from  first,  5,150  feet;   depth,  960  feet;  third  shatt  from 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  393 

spcond.  4,000  <Vet ;  drptb,  1,436  feet;  fourtli  shtift  from  tliird,  4,r>.')4  feet;  depth,  1,360  feet; 
froui  fourth  shdtt  to  Ccmstoek  lode,  ^,244  feet;  depth.  1,'J42  feet.  These  lire  convenient  dis- 
tances for  woiking  and  ventihition.  The  mouth  is  about  one  and  a  half  mile  from  Carson 
river,  and  I'lO  feet  above  hifi^h-watcr  mark.  Tiiere  is  a  gradual  descent  for  about  one-third 
of  a  mile,  in  which  a  fall  of  100  feet  is  obtained,  giving  suflicient  area  for  dumping  and  mill 
sites. 

The  vertical  section  of  the  tunnel  through  rock  not  requiring  any  support  is  a  circle  of  12 
feet  diameter,  with  oflsets  3^  feet  iVom  the  bottom,  about  one  foot  wide,  which  support  the 
superstructure  of  the  railroad  track  to  be  used  lor  removing  ore  and  debris  from  the  mine. 
The  spaci'  under  the  superstructure  is  for  drawing  the  water  from  the  lode.  Where  timber 
supports  nre  required  to  sustain  the  adjacent  rock,  the  top  is  level,  and  10  feet  wide,  clear  of 
the  franuug;  height  eight  feet  to  the  bottom  of  thi^  timbers  supporting  the  railroad,  where  it 
is  12  feet  wide  in  the  clear.  Below  this  there  is  a  triangular  space,  three  feet  .seven  inches  in 
depth,  forming  the  water  way. 

The  estimates  of  the  cost  of  construction  have  been  very  ably  discussed  in  a  lengthy  report 
by  R.  G.  Carlyle,  esq.,  covering  .some  200  pages  of  manuscript,  and  illustrated  by  numerous 
well-executed"  diagrauis.  Mr.  Carlyle  has  resided  some  years  in  Virginia  City,  when  he  was 
the  engineer  of  the  Gould  and  Curry  Company,  and  appears  to  be  thoroughly  familiar  with 
everything  connected  with  mining  in  that  country.  The  minuteness  with  which  he  goes  into 
the  details  of  the  proposed  work,  the  elaborate  calculations  into  which  he  enters,  and  the 
scrupulous  manner  in  which  he  weighs  his  conclusions,  entitle  his  report  to  careful  consider- 
ation. 

It  is  impossible  for  us  to  give  more  than  a  condensed  abstract  of  the  results  he  has  obtained. 
The  basis  of  his  calculations  is  the  experience  of  himself  and  others  in  mining  near  Virginia 
City,  and  the  statements  of  Caron  Kichthofen  in  regard  to  the  character  of  the  material 
encountered  in  the  constniction  of  the  tunnel.     The  Baron  says: 

"The  facilities  of  excavating  the  tunnel  would  depend  mainly  upon  the  quality  of  the 
rock  through  which  it  will  pass.  It  is  a  remarkably  fortunate  incident  that  the  route  selected 
by  Mr.  Sutro  not  only  gives  the  greatest  depth,  is  the  .shortest,  has  the  best  facilities  for 
working  shalts.  but  promises  also  in  this  respect  to  be  the  most  advantageous.  The  tirst 
(),t;UO  or  7,01)0  feet  will  be  through  trachyte  and  trachytic  breccia,  which  in  a  broad  .semicir- 
cular belt  of  prominent  hills,  swing  from  Dayton  by  the  Siigarloaf  to  Washoe  valley. 
Trachytic  breccia  may  easily  be  worked  by  the  pick,  yet  is  ordinarily  solid  and  dry  enough 
to  require  no  timbering.  An  idea  of  its  excellent  qimlities  for  tunnelling  may  be  formed 
from  the  fact  that  in  Hungary  wine  cellars  hundreds  of  feet  in  length  are  with  preference 
excavated  in  this  kind  of  rock.  The  solid  trachyte  is  an  excellent  blasting  rock.  Its  supe- 
rior qualities  have  caused  its  general  use  in  Washoe  for  building  material ;  it  was  as  such 
applied  in  the  construction  of  the  solid  masonry  of  Gould  and  Curry  mill.  With  the  u.so  of 
the  drilling  machine  of  Mount  Cenis,  speedy  work  will  be  made  in  this  rock.  The  next 
2,500  feet  will,  to  all  probability,  exhibit  a  great  variety  of  rock,  some  of  which  will  be  rather 
hard.  The  following  10,000  feet  to  the  cutting  of  the  vein  will  most  likely  consist  of  the 
same  material  as  is  traversed  by  the  numerous  tunnels  which  lead  at  present  to  the  Comstock 
vein.  This  rock  (trachytic  greenstone)  would  offer  some  obstacles  if  i^,  were  in  an  undecom- 
posed  state.  But  from  tin;  general  nature  of  its  decomposition,  which  evidently  was  per- 
formed from  below  by  ascending  steams  and  vapors  during  a  time  of  volcanic  action,  we 
believe  we  are  justified  in  the  conclusion  that  it  will  be  found  for  the  entire  length  of  JO,OI^() 
feet  of  the  .sauie  rotten  nature  as  in  the  shallow  ti:nnels  at  present  in  existence,  and  it  may 
have  to  be  timbered  the  whole  distance." 

Mr.  Carlyle  speaks  as  follows  in  regard  to  his  experience  with  the  two  principal  kinds  of 
rock  to  bo  encountered  : 

"While  I  was  in  the  employ  of  the  Gould  and  Curry  as  their  chief  engineer,  we  used  solid 
trachyte  for  building  purposes,  taken  from  a  quarry  on  the  side  of  the  .Sugarloaf  mountain. 
I  had,  therefore,  considerable  opportunity  of  learning  the  particular  characteristics  of  the 
stone.  It  is  not  poroiis,  but  is  very  close  in  its  nature,  has  very  few  seams,  no  grains  or 
special  tendency  to  fracture  in  any  particular  direction.  It  is  rather  soft,  and,  in  consequence, 
is  easily  drilled  to  any  desired  shape.  The  rock  drills  well  and  blasts  freely,  as  it  does  not 
seem  to  have  much  col.esi(jn  on  account  of  its  many  component  parts.  The  rock  docs  not  air- 
slack  ;  on  the  contrary,  it  grows  liarder  by  exposure." 

This  rock  is  extensively  nsed  for  building  purposes  ;  all  the  stone  buildings  in  the  town  of 
Dayton  are  constructed  of  it. 

His  experience  in  working  greenstone  porphyrj'  he  gives  as  follows: 

"This  cla.-s  of  rock  is  iravmsed  by  several  tunnels  to  the  Comstock  lode,  all  of  which  were 
easilj-  woikcd,  and  they  had  to  be  supported  by  timber.  The  Gould  and  Curry  lower  tunnel 
is  the  only  excplion  to  this,  as  it  passed  through  1,400  fict  of  undecomposed  rock,  which 
was  not  diflicult  to  work  on  account  of  its  favorable  stratitication ;  powder  was  used  but  to 
a  email  extent,  and  this  for  the  purpose  only  of  shaking  the  mass.  The  remaining  800  feet 
to  the  lode  had  to  be  timbered,'  as  the  rock  would  not  supjiort  itself.  The  whole  length  of 
this  tunnel,  2,'iOO  feet,  was  run  from  one  working  point  in  4t;()  working  days,  or  10  months; 
the  work,  however,  was  distributed  over  a  period  of  two  years,  as  it  did  not  progress  steadily. 
The  average  daily  progress  was  nearly  five  feet." 


394  KESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

Mr.  Carlyle  estimates  that  10,535  lineal  feet  of  tunnel  will  be  through  solid  rock,  and 
9,043  through  decomposed  rock  requiring  timbering, 

Shaft  No.  1  is  7^  feet  by  131  feet,  and  shafts  Nos.  2,  3,  and  4  are  71  feet  by  14  feet,  outside 
of  plauking.  They  are  timbered  and  planked  from  top  to  bottom,  and  divided  into  two  com- 
partments— one  for  pumping  out  the  water,  and  the  other  tor  raising  the  excavated  material. 

Preliminary  tunnels  are  driven  from  the  bottom  of  these  shafts  in  both  directions  till  they 
meet.  These  tunnels  are  in  solid  rock,  five  feet  in  width  and  seven  feet  high,  the  top  being 
a  semicircle.  In  rock  requiring  timbering  they  are  of  a  box-shape,  four  feet  wide  on  top,  five 
feet  on  bottom,  and  six  feet  four  inches  inside  of  the  timbering,  with  a  channel  below  for 
drainage. 

TiMK  RKQUIRED  TO  FINISH  TuNNBL. — "The  time  required  to  sink  the  different  shafts 
on  the  Sutro  tunnel,  and  make  connections  of  the  drifts  from  the  same,  I  estimate  as  fol- 
lows, on  the  basis  that  four  feet  can  be  sunk  per  day  on  the  shafts,  and  five  feet  made  on 
the  drifts : 

"  Connection  from  drift  No.  1  in  462  working  days. 

"  Connection  from  drift  No.  2  in  693  working  days. 

"  Connection  from  drift  No.  3  in  708  working  days. 

"Connection  from  drift  No.  4  in  815  working  days. 

"  Since  all  these  shafts  would  be  progressing  at  the  same  time,  the  connections  from  shafts 
Nos.  1,  2,  and  3  will  be  made  before  those  of  No.  4,  and  the  whole  time,  therefore,  required 
to  finish  a  preliminary  tunnel  to  the  Comstock  lode  would  be  815  days. 

"The  enlargement  of  this  preliminary  tunnel  will  progress  from  the  mouth  from  time  to 
time  as  the  connections  are  made,  and  will  be  completed  up  to  a  point  midway  between  shafts 
three  and  four  by  the  time  the  last  connection  is  finished.  From  that  point  4,618  feet  Avould 
still  remain  to  be  enlarged,  which  would  occupy  J 16  days.  The  total  time,  therefore, 
required  to  complete  the  Sutro  tunnel  to  the  Comstock  lode  would  be  931  days,  or  two  years, 
six  months,  and  21  days." 

The  committee  would  remark  in  regard  to  the  removal  of  the  rock  for  4,618  feet,  that  esti- 
mating the  sectional  area  at  nine  yards,  the  amount  is  only  13,854  cubic  yards,  on  which,  as 
the  cut  can  be  worked  all  along  the  top  and  at  the  two  ends,  sufiicient  number  of  men  can 
be  employed  to  remove  it  in  the  time  indicated. 

Mr.  Carlyle  then  cites  numerous  instances  of  shafts  sunk  by  different  companies,  and  tun- 
nels driven  to  the  Comstock  lode,  which  prove  that  his  estimate  of  four  feet  per  day  in  sinking 
shafts,  and  five  feet  in  driving  tunnels,  whenever  prosecuted  with  energy,  is  confirmed  by 
experience,  making  due  allow  ance  for  their  size  and  other  circumstances,  which  in  some  cases 
have  retarded  work. 

Your  committee  are  of  the  opinion  that,  with  proper  energy,  a  sufficiency  of  capital,  and 
provided  no  extraordinary  obstacles  are  encountered,  the  tunnel  might  be  finished  in  the  time 
stated,  but  it  is  so  well  known  that  delays  are  met  with  in  works  of  this  kind,  from  causes 
impossible  to  anticipate,  that  it  is  probable  that  an  additional  time  of  least  one  year  may  be 
occupied.  It  is  safe  to  say  that,  making  all  due  allowance  for  contingencies,  the  tunnel  can 
be  completed  in  from  three  and  a  half  to  four  years. 


SECTION    II. 
EASTERN  NEVADA. 

The  eastern  Nevada  mining  region,  as  the  terra  is  used,  is  understood  to  include 
tliat  part  of  Nevada  constituting  the  counties  of  Lander, Nye, and  Lincoln;  being 
considerably  more  than  hall"  the  State  ;  or  embracing  an  area  of  three  and  a  hal£ 
degrees  of  longitude  and  seven  of  latitude,  if  we  include  the  portion  of  territory 
taken  from  Arizona  and  added  to  this  State  by  an  act  of  the  39th  Congress ; 
making  an  aggregate  of  abont  G0,000  stpiare  miles,  or  an  area  equal  to  the  entire 
State  of  New  York,  with  several  of  the  lesser  New  England  Stiites  added.  This 
great  region,  at  the  beginning  of  the  ])reseiit  decade,  was  almost  enth'ely  unknown 
to  the  world,  as  it  was  unoccnpied  and  imexplored,  save  one  or  two  routes  travelled 
by  the  emigrant  from  the  valley  of  the  ^Mississippi  to  the  Pacific  coast.  It  had 
been  crossed  along  the  line  t)f  the  IIiind)oldt  river,  and  upon  the  more  direct 
route,  part  of  which  is  now  the  road  taken  l)y  the  great  overland  mail.  Fremont 
and  other  explorers  had  also  crossed  by  ditfcrent  routes,  but  they  had  regiirded 
it  as  a  sterile  waste,  and  without  looking  for  minerals  or  what  might  give  value 
to  the  country,  sought  only  for  routes  or  passes  by  which  they  could  most  expe- 


^^^:ST  of  the  rocky  mountains.  395 

(lilidtisly  li'avc  it.     So  little   was   learned    from  these  explorations  that  until 
wuhiiiu  few  years  past  the  eountry  had  been  marked  npon  the  maps  as  an  nnex- 
j)l()red  reii-ioii,  generally  destitute  of  vec^etation  and  water,  and  sparsely  occupied 
by  a  homeless,  wandering',  and  degraded  race  of  Indians.     The  desolation  and 
sterility,  not  only  of  this  particular  region,  but  of  all  the  country  lying  between 
the  Koeky  mountains  and  the  Sierra  Nevada,  had  become  so  generally  .acknowl- 
edged, that  the  wish  had  been  expressed  that  these  ranges  of  mountains  might 
come  together,  and  this  great  region  be  obliterated  from  the  surface  of  the  earth. 
The  general  ap])earance  of  the  country  through<jut  the  '\great  basin"  indicates 
that  a  partial  elimiiuiti^n  has  taken  place,  as,  topographically  it  presents  the 
apfietmmce  of  having  once  been  a  vast  plain,  which  being  pressed  by  tlie  two 
great  mountain  ranges  bordering  on  the  east  and  west,  broke  or  wrinkled  the 
surtace  into  parallel  ridges  and  valleys  whose  axial  lines  quit>e  regularly  extend 
north  and  south.    These  corrugations  are  a  prominent  characteristic  of  the  country 
south  of  the  Humboldt  river,  and  north  of  the  3Gth  parallel  of  latitude.     A  pecu- 
liar featm-e  of  this  scc^tioii  is,  that  it  has  no  outlet  to  the  sea,  but  its  streams, 
■which,  though  generally  small,  are  quite  nuinerous,  flow  from  the  monntains  to 
the  valleys,  sometimes  for  a  considerablo  distance  in  the  valleys,  and  then  are 
lost  in  the  sand.      The  mountains,  which  rise  precipitously,  are  from  a  few 
Inmilred  to  5,000  feet  above  the  subjacent  plain,  and  as  the  general  elevation 
of  the  plains  is  about  5,000  feet  above  the  sea,  the  most  lofty  peaks  attain  an 
altitude  above  tide-water  of  10,000  feet.     These  hills  and  mountains  are  usually 
covered  with  scanty  ])atches  of  pine,  cedar,  and  mahogany  trees,  furnishing  excel- 
lent fuel,  but  generally  valueless  tor  building  material,  although  th^xO  are  local- 
ities where  there  are  groves  of  i>ine,  from  which  a  fair  quality  of  lumber  is  manu- 
fiictured.     These  hills  and  valleys,  if  forbidding  in  their  general  aspect,  and 
apparently  barren,  produce  a  most  excellent  and  nutricious  species  of  bunch  grass, 
and  constitute  a  very  superior  grazing  country  ;   while  in  the  many  canons  of  the 
mountains,  and  in  all  the  large  valleys,  are  tracts  of  land  of  an  exceedingly  pro- 
ductive character.     The  lands  susceptible  of  profitable  tillage  amount  in  the 
aggregate  to  a  considerable  area,  and  are  capable  of  furnishing  most  of  the  pro- 
ducts of  the  farm  grown  in  temperate  climates.     The  grasses,  gi-ain,  and  vege- 
tables are  of  good  qiitdity.     Agriculture  and  manufactures  can  be  conducted  on 
a  limited  scale,  and  will  be  great  assistants  to  the  chief  resource  of  the  coinitrj' — 
mining.     The  mineral-bearing  veins  of  eastern  Nevada  were  iirst  made  known 
in  1862,  at  the  time  when  attention  was  called  to  the  sul)ject  by  the  develop- 
ments made  npon  the  ^'  Comstock  ledge,"  and  from  which  near  §75,000,000  of 
silver  have  been  taken.     The  history  of  this  discovery  says : 

Early  in  the  month  of  May,  1802,  William  II.  Talcott,  an  attache  of  the  stance  station  at 
Jacob.s's  Springs,  a  post  ou  the  transcoutimmtal  stage  route,  while  hauling  wood  I'rom  the 
hillside,  now  within  the  limits  of  the  city  of  Austin,  discovered  a  vein  of  metal-bearing  quartz, 
and  carried  a  small  quantity  with  him  to  the  station.  The  rock  proving  to  contain  silver,  tho 
ledge  was  located  as  a  mining  claim,  and  named  the  Pony,  as  the  discoverer  had  formerly 
been  a  rider  ot"  the  pony  express.  On  the  lUlli  day  of  May,  l!H'i2,  a  miuiug  district  was 
formed,  including  an  area  75  miles  in  length  east  and  west,  and  20  miles  north  and  south, 
aixl  luimed  the  lice.sii  river  mining  district.  A  code  of  laws  was  adopted  after  the  custom 
of  miners,  and  William  M.  Talcot*,  the  discoverer,  elected  recorder,  and  the  claims  already 
discovered  were  recorded. 

The  extent  of  the  district  east  and  west  is  nominally  75  miles,  but  really  it 
only  extends  from  the  western  base  of  the  mountain  to  Ihe  summit,  about  three 
miles. 

This  was  the  inauguration  of  the  Reese  river  mining  region.  Its  name  is 
derived  from  a  small  stream  called  Pteese  river,  flowing  irom  south  to  north 
through  the  valley  which  borders  the  western  bjuse  of  the  mountains.  The  extreme 
lengih  of  Reese  river  is  about  150  miles,  when  it  empties  into  the  Humboldt, 
but  the  water  usually  sinks  and  is  lost  before  reaching  the  latter  stream.  Tho 
valley  averages  about  live  miles  iu  width,  and  contains  some  good  agricultm-al 


396  EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

land.  The  mountain  range  in  wliicli  the  silver  Avas  found  received  the  name  of 
"Toiyabee,"  an  Indian  word,  meaning  a  range  of  hills.  This  range  is  of  about 
the  same  length  as  the  river,  and  is  from  5  to  1-5  miles  broad  through  its  base, 
and  rises  above  the  subjacent  valley  from  1,000  to  5,000  feet.  It  is  geologically 
composed  of  primitive  rocks,  of  which  granite  or  gneiss  and  ^late  are  the  princi- 
pal, with  quai't::ite,  limestone,  serpentine,  porphyry,  and  others  as  occasional 
varieties.  In  all  are  found  veins  of  quartz-bearing  gold,  silver,  copper,  lead, 
antimony,  and  Either  metals.  In  its  general  character,  appearance,  and  forma- 
tion it  resembles  the  numerous  other  ridges  running  pai'allel  to  it  through  the 
country,  and  from  10  to  30  miles  distant  from  each  other,  separated  by  valleys 
generally  containing  a  proportion  of  tolerable  soil,  yet  unoccupied  and  iiTeclaimed. 

The  discovery  of  silver  being  made  known,  the  news  spread  rapidly  and  the 
people  flocked  to  the  locality.  Situated  on  the  line  of  the  overland  stage  and 
telegraph,  it  was  convenient  to  reach.  The  site  for  a  large  toMTi  was  surveyed, 
and  Austiii  was  built ;  now  incorporated  as  a  city,  with  its  mayor  and  board  of 
aldennen,  city  officers,  police,  a  city  hall,  a  daily  newspaper,  saloons  and  stores, 
a  national  bank,  private  banks  and  assay  offices,  costly  churches,  public  and  pri- 
vate schools,  public  halls  and  lecture  rooms,  comfortable  private  dwellings,  gas- 
works for  lighting  the  city,  watei'-works  and  pipes  supplying  the  houses,  sewered 
streets,  stages  nmning  in  all  directions,  arid  the  telegraph  connecting  it  with  all 
parts  of  the  world — in  fact,  possessing  the  usual  features  of  a  city.  Refemng  again 
to  the  history  of  Austin  in  the  directory  of  the  city,  the  A\Titer  says  :  ''  Centrally 
in  the  State  of  Nevada  is  the  young  and  happy  city  of  Austin.  Should  its 
locality  be  sought  for  on  the  map  of  America,  it  will  be  found  where  is  usually 
marked  the  vacancy  of  the  '  unexplored  regions,'  in  latitude  30°  29'  30'',  and 
in  longitude  west  from  AYashington  40°  4',  or  117°  5'  west  from  Greenwich, 
England,  being  almost  precisely  in  the  geogTaphical  centre  of  Nevada." 

This  centre  is  conveniently  reached  from  the  east  or  west,  and  without  hard- 
ship or  danger.  The  gi'eat  trans-continental  highway  nms  through  it  with  a 
daily  stage,  mail,  and  express.  Two  other  stages,  running  between  Austin  and 
the  Pacific,  carry  passengers  and  freight  at  very  low  rates.  By  daily  stage  the 
jouniey  from  San  Francisco  to  Austin  is  perfomied  in  four  days,  at  the  cost  of 
$50.  By  the  other  stages  the  timv  is  greater  by  one  or  more  days ;  the  cost  is 
from  $15  to  SoO.  The  road  is  good,  and  freight  wagons  bearing  10,000  to  15,000 
pounds  weight  are  taken  over  it.  Th(^  distance  to  Sr.n  Francisco  is  473  miles, 
of  whicli  more  than  half  is  travelled  by  steamboat  and  railroad.  From  the  cast 
the  traveller  leaves  the  Missouri  river  by  the  cars  of  the  Union  Paciiic  railroad 
or  its  l*ranclies.  After  the  present  year  (1867)  the  cars  will  quickly  and  easily 
bear  him  GOO  miles  westward  over  the  great  plains,  and  thence  by  stage  900 
miles  through  Bridger  l*ass  by  Salt  Lake  to  Austin,  requiring  about  10  days  of 
tiavel.  Great  bodies  of  immigrants  cross  annually  with  their  own  conveymiccs, 
subsisting  their  animals  upon  the  native  grasses,  or,  as  may  be  done  at  the  present 
time,  purchasing  forage  which  is  produced  at  the  settlements  along  the  road. 
This  mode  of  travel  greatly  lessens  the  expense,  but  requires  from  40  to  60  days 
for  the  journey. 

The  laws  and  customs  of  Nevada,  which  are  rccog'nized  bv  the  government  of  the 
United  States,  permit  miiu-rs  upon  the  discovery  of  metal-bearing  lodes  in  an  unoc- 
cupied locality  to  organize  a  mining  district,  designate  its  bounds,  pass  a  code  of 
laws  regulating  tlu^  location  and  tenure  of  mining  property,  and  choose  a  recorder 
of  locations.  These  districts  are  usually  from  10  to  20  miles  square,  though  gov- 
wned  by  the  physical  features  of  the  country  and  the  contiguity  of  other  districts. 

IIeese  lliVEii  DisTiMCT — IIow  Ci-AIMS  AKE  AcQUiKED. — Ivcesc  Eivcr  dis- 
trict. Lander  county,  v.as  the  first  organized,  and  has  given  its  name  to  the 
suiTOunding  country.  Its  mineral  belt  comprises  an  area  on  the  western  slope 
of  the  Toiyabee  mountains,  about  two  miles  in  width  and  seven  in  length. 
The  dimensions  were  formerly  greater,  but  the  area  mentioned  comprises  what 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  397 

is  luiw  fdnsidcrod  as  the  (listrict.  Upon  or<;-iuu/,at ion  a  code  of  laws  was  adopted 
ri'irulatiiii;-  the  size  and  manner  of  location  of  niiuini*'  claims.  The  law  as  first 
passed  accorded  to  the  locators  of  a  vein  the  i,''round  and  all  the  mineral  it  con- 
tained for  a  width  of  200  feet  on  each  side  of  the  vein  located.  In  a  few  months 
lari^e  additions  were  made  to  the  population,  and  the  law  was  amended  so  as  to 
restrict  ownership  to  the  lode  or  vein  actually  discovered  and  lociited,  with  the 
privilege  of  occupying  the  surface  necessary  for  working  the  mine.  The  mining 
laws  of  other  districts  in  eastern  Nevada  do  not  differ  materially  from  those  of 
lleese  river.  The  laws  of  Congress  acknowledge  the  validity  of  these  rules 
and  permit  miners  to  go  upon  the  public  lands  and  take  possession  of  the  mines, 
promising  no  interference.  These  laws  explain  themselves.  The  ground  is 
pul)lic  and  (^pen  to  all  the  world.  Any  man  Ciin  go  npon  it,  and  by  finding  a 
vein  of  gold,  or  silver,  or  any  other  ore  can  make  it  his  own,  and  is  assured  and 
protected  in  his  title.  In  no  other  country  is  such  a  privilege  given.  A  country 
stored  with  wealth  invites  the  people  of  all  the  eartli  to  come  and  take  possession 
and  become  independent  lan<l-owners  and  miners. 

Within  the  limits  of  the  district  over  G,000  locations  have  been  made,  but  tliis 
does  not  indicate  the  number  of  distinct  silver-bearing  veins  known  to  exist. 
There  are  many  hundreds  oi  known  value.  These  veins  are  in  the  granite  rock, 
and  are  from  six  inches  to  three  feet  in  thickness.  They  generally  lie  parallel 
to  each  other,  with  a  strike  northwest  and  southeast  and  a  dip  to  the  northeast. 
A  movement  of  the  rock  lias  at  some  plaees  been  made^  and  these  ledges  are 
broken  or  have  "  faults,"  and  tlie  angle  of  their  dip  is  not  so  great. 

Mode  of  Working.— The  veins  are  usually  explored  by  means  of  an  inclined 
sliaft  conunencing  wliere  the  ore  appears  at  the  surface,*aud  following  down  with 
the  dip  of  the  ledge.  When,  after  thus  sinking  a  distance  sufficient  to  render 
certain  the  existence  and  character  of  the  vein,  it  is  thought  dtisirable  to  open  it 
as  a  mine,  and  to  work  it  conveniently.,  a  })erpendicular  shaft  is  sunk  at  a  point 
some  distance  from  the  outcrop,  as  the  ground  permits,  calculating  to  plerco  the 
vein  at  a  depth  of  100  feet  or  more  beueath  the  surftuie.  These  shafts  are  of 
different  dimensions,  the  best  being  about  5  by  15  feet.  The  cost  of  sinking 
such  a  sliaft  and  securely  timbering  it  is  about  SGO  per  foot  of  depth. 

DESCKirTiox  OF  OiiES. — A  belt  of  .silver-bearing  veins  runs  from  Marshall 
canon,  in  the  southern  part  of  the  disti'ict,  northerly  to  the  Amador  district,  a 
distance  of  about  six  miles.  This  belt  is  about  half  a  mile  in  width.  In  it  are 
a  gi-eat  number  of  parallel  veins  similar  in  churjicter  and  generally  rich.  Tlie 
different  localities  are  designated  as  follows,  connnenung  at  the  south  ;  Miguel 
canon,  Marshall's  cauon,  Union  hill,  Central  liill,  Lander  hill.  Emigrant  canon, 
Telegrai)li  canon,  Yankee  Blade,  and  New  York  ravine,  the  northern  line  of  the 
district  separating  it  from  Amador.  l']acli  of  these  localities  is  locally  known 
for  its  particular  mines  in  tlie  more  advanced  stages  of  development.  Those  of 
the  district  most  systematically  opened  are  the  Great  Eastern,  I'imoke,  Oregon, 
North  Star,  Florida,  JMagnolia,  .Savage,  Diana,  Troy,  iiuel  North  Star,  Provi- 
dencia,  Kaleseed,  and  some  others  on  Lander  hill,  in  the  city  of  Austin,  and 
within  an  area  of  a  few  hundred  yards  square.  These  are  veins,  the  gangue 
being  quartz,  of  10  inches  to  two  fe(!t  in  width,  of  highly  concentrate<l  ore,  easily 
and  cheajdy  mined.  On  Central  hill  are  the  North  Iliver,  Hubbard,  Naiad 
Queen,  I'enobscot,  and  others,  which  are  well  developed  and  have  produced  a 
consitlerable  amount  of  buUicju.  On  Union  hill  are  the  Whillatch  Union, 
Camargo,  Silver  Chamber,  and  Tuscarora,  from  which  bullion  has  been  taken. 
At  Yankee  Blade  ami  in  the  vicinity  are  the  Confidence,  l\Iaggie,  Ontario,  Yan- 
kcM?  Blade,  Whitlatch  Yankee  Blade,  ]\Iianii,  Chase,  Metacuiu,  ^lidas.  Green 
Emigrant,  Vineyard,  Vedder,  and  Sclavonia,  most  developed  and  of  tiie  best 
promise,  while  many  others  are  located,  partially  d(.'veIoi)ed,  and  regarded  as 
valuable.  A  catalogue  of  the  locations  made  in  the  (listrict,  or  an  opinion 
regai'ding  them,  would  be  useless ;  many  have  been  abandoned  after  some  slight 


398  EESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

developments.  The  general  cliaractcr  of  the  ore  tlirongliout  tlie  district  is  the 
same  in  the  same  relative  positions.  At  the  sm'face,  and  to  the  depth  of  50  to 
70  feet,  where  water  is  found,  the  vein  matter  is  loose  and  friable,  has  a  dirty  or 
earth-stained  appearance,  and  the  silver  is  found  in  the  fonn  of  a  chloride  ore, 
j)reseuting  a  dark  or  straw-colored  appearance.  When  the  water  is  reached  the 
vein  matter  shows  the  white,  clear  quartz,  and  the  ore,  then  nsualty  an  antimo- 
nial  sulphurct,  is  quite  hlack,  and,  contrasted  with  the  white  quartz,  pi-esents  a 
beautiful  appearance.  Its  value  is  readily  ascertained  by  one  experienced  in 
observing  it.  The  ore  taken  from  below,  wdiere  the  water  has  long  existed  in 
the  eailh,  often  contains  lieautiful  crystals  of  silver.  From  these  mines  are 
obtained  specimens- which  adorn  the  cabinets  of  the  mineralogists,  the  lovers  of 
the  beautiful  and  unique,  and  the  curiosity  hunter. 

The  limits  of  tliis  report  do  not  permit  a  full  descrijjtion  of  the  varieties  of 
ores,  nor  the  discussion  of  the  fonnations  of  the  veins.  It  wnll  sufKce  to  notice 
the  manner  of  their  development,  and  to  show  their  value.  In  the  district,  as 
has  been  said,  are  more  than  G,000  locations  of  mines  of  500  to  2,000  feet  each. 
Probably  1,000  of  these  have  been  so  far  developed  as  to  prove  that  they  pos- 
sess a  value;  but  of  this  nunil)er  only  a  few  are  at  present  mined.  A  descrip- 
tion of  a  few  of  the  most  noted  on  Lander  hill  will  give  an  insight  into  the 
character  of  all  and  an  idea  of  the  extent  of  operations  to  be  undertaken  in  the 
future. 

The  Nor/rn  Stap.,  belonging  to  the  Manhattan  Company,  was  located  in 
1862.  In  its  hrst  stages  of  development  it  was  opened  l)y  an  incline,  which 
exjiosed  chloride  of  silver  ore,  and  was  mined  with  some  profit.  At  a  greater 
depth  the  ore  was  a  suljlhuret.  Subsequently  a  perpendicular  shaft  was  sunk, 
piercing  the  vein  at  the  depth  of  200  feet,  and  with  powerful  steam  hoisting 
machinery  the  mine  is  still  worked  with  profit.  The  vein  is  encased  in  granite, 
is  generally  about  14  inches  in  width,  and  is  mined  without  the  aid  of  ])owder. 
In  February  last,  of  some  hundreds  of  tons  mined  and  reduced  at  the  mill  of  tlie 
company,  the  average  product  was  $240  per  ton  of  2,000  pounds.  The  work- 
ings of  the  quarter  ending  June  30  show  507  tons,  and  a  product  of  $149  40 
per  ton.  The  ore  found  in  this  mine,  as  in  all  the  others  in  the  district  when 
below  the  line  of  pennanent  water,  is  commonly  denominated  a  sulphnret, 
although  it  comprises  several  varieties  of  ore  containing  sulphur. 

The  Oregon  is  a  parallel  vein  within  a  few  lumdred  feet  of  the  North  Star, 
belongs  to  the  same  company,  is  Avorked  by  the  aid  of  the  same  machinery,  and 
in  all  respects  resembles  it. 

The  GitEAT  Easteux  is  opened  by  a  perpendicular  shaft,  and  is  advanta- 
geously worked.  In  one  niontli,  to  the  labor  of  oO  men  it  produced  137  tons  of 
ore,  which  retiu-ned  of  bullion  an  average  of  $346  77  per  ton,  or  an  aggregate 
ot  $47,507  50.  The  vein  is  from  10  to  30  inches  in  thickness,  averaging  per- 
haps 18  inches.  The  gangue  is  a  clear  white  quartz,  and  the  ore,  which  consti- 
tutes a  large  ])ercentago  of  the  vein,  is  an  antimonial  sulphnret,  or,  as  locally 
tenned,  a  ruby  silver,  from  its  dark  red  or  ruby  color.  The  mine  was  tiret  opened 
by  an  incline  following  the  inclinatioii  of  the  ledge,  which  dipped  at  an  angle 
of  about  30°  from  a  horizontal,  to  the  depth  of  250  feet,  developing  much  good 
ore,  although  the  vein  was  very  narrow.  For  the  better  opening  oH  the  mine  a 
]>erj)endicular  shaft  was  sunk  at  a  distance  of  400  feet  northeast  of  the  croppings, 
which  pierced  the  ledge  at  a  depth  of  300  feet.  At  this  depth  it  was  found  of 
greater  size  and  value  than  in  the  incline.  It  is  unfortunate  that  at  the  date  of 
this  report  the  workings  should  be  in  bairen  rock.  A  dei)th  of  350  feet  has 
been  reached,  and  extensive  explorations  have  lieen  made  without  finding  ore  of 
the  quality  which  heretofore  made  its  workings  so  profitable.  The  "mine  is 
worked  through  the  vertical  shaft  before  spoken  of,  which  is  divided  into  com- 
partments to  create  a  current  of  air,  that  passes  down  one  compartment  and  np 
another,  allbrding  excellent  ventilation.     At  the  greatest  depth  (350  feet)  the 


WEST    or    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  399 

tomperaturo  is  GO'  Fahrenheit.*  The  altitude  of  the  surface  is  about  G,000  feet 
above  tlie  sea.  Tlie  mine  is  easily  drained,  dischari;-in^'  20,000  g'allons  daily. 
The  water  is  raised  in  a  bueket  by  a  steam  enyine  of  oO-horse  power,  which  also 
does  the  work  of  hoistini];  the  ore  and  waste  rock  from  the  mine,  which  amounts 
to  GO  tons  per  diem.  The  cost  of  transporting  the  ore  to  the  mill  and  milling 
is  as  agreed  upon.  If  the  entire  amount  of  bullion  produced  or  the  ''clean-up" 
is  returned,  the  charge  is  $65  per  ton  ;  but  if  the  miller  agrees  to  rctuni  80  per 
centum  of  the  assay  value  of  the  ore,  the  charge  is  $45  per  ton. 

TiiK  Florida  vein  presents  many  characteristics  of  the  Great  Eastern,  is  in 
size  about  the  same,  and  furnishes  the  same  quality  of  ore.  It  is  owned  by  the 
New  York  and  Austin  Silver  Mining  Company,  and  is  mined  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  Sir.  Edwin  A.  Sherman,  a  skilful  mining  engineer.  The  claim  is 
SOO  feet  in  length,  and  is  situated  near  the  centre  of  the  belt  passing  through 
Lander  hill.  Its  strike  follows  the  general  direction  of  veins  through  the  hill, 
being  northwest  and  southeast,  its  dip  being  29°  from  a  horizontal  plane.  Its 
develojiment  under  the  present  management  commenced  August  IS,  1S6G.  It  is 
opened  by  an  inclined  shaft  following  the  vein,  and  has  now  reached  a  depth  of 
350  feet.  From  this  incline  three  levels  are  running;  the  first  at  a  depth  of  150 
feet,  which  has  extended  to  the  northwest  65  feet,  and  above  which  for  a  width 
of  30  feet  the  ore  is  mined  out.  Through  this  mining  the  average  width  of  the 
vein  is  10  inches.  The  second  level  is  50  feet  below  the  fii'st,  and  between  the 
two  all  the  ore  has  been  mined.  This  level  extends  to  the  southeast  a  distance 
of  230  feet,  and  the  ore  has  been  taken  out  for  a  width  of  30  feet  above  the 
level  along  100  feet  of  it.  The  average  width  of  the  vein,  through  this  working 
was  eight  inches.  A  third  level  is  ran  at  a  depth  of  300  feet,  which  has  reached 
a  length  of  about  30  feet  on  each  side  of  the  incline.  Along  this  level  the  vein 
has  a  thickness  of  16  inches.  The  amount  of  levels  run  in  the  past  year  aggre- 
gate 760  lineal  feet,  making  32,000  cubic  feet  of  rock  removed  froui  the  ave- 
nues alone  in  the  development  of  the  mine,  and  about  18,000  more  have  been 
removed  in  the  excavations  necessary  in  taking  out  the  ore,  making  an- aggre- 
gate of  50,000  cu])ic  feet  of  country  rock  actually  removed  from  the  mine,  or  a 
small  fraction  over  4.000  tons.  The  number  of  tons  of  ore  taken  from  the  mine 
in  this  time  is  317,  28  of  which  have  not  been  worked.  From  the  ore  worked, 
288  tons  and  1,679  pounds,  there  has  been  produced  874,823  82,  or  an  average 
of  8259  per  ton  of  2,000  pounds.  The  actual  cost  of  working  this  mine  to  pro- 
duce the  above  sum  has  been  865,740  21,  leaving  a  net  profit  of  89,083  61. 
The  expenses  include  officers,  rent,  taxes,  &:c.,  &c.  To  the  profits  should  be 
added  the  value  of  the  levels  run  to  be  used  in  the  further  operations  of  mining, 
which,  at  a  reasonable  estimate,  should  l)e  815,000  ;  also  a  property  above  ground 
on  the  mine  worth  85,000  more.  The  above  statement  is  for  the  10  months 
ending  June  30,  18G7.  Since  then  machinery  has  been  erected  for  hoisting,  of 
the  value  of  810,000,  and  about  85,000  worth  of  ore  taken  out  and  hauled  to 
the  mill  ready  for  crushing ;  so  that  thus  far  it  may  be  fairly  stated  that  the  mine 
has  paid  the  expense  of  its  development,  including  the  cost  of  machinery,  &c., 
with  a  value  of  nc^t  less  than  $30,000  alcove  ground,  and  the  value  of  work 
performed  for  future  benefit. 

'J'liE  Shekman  Suaft. — On  the  7th  day  of  Febniary  last  was  commenced 
the  Sherman  shaft  by  the  superintendent  of  the  Florida  mine,  in  honor  of  whom 
it  is  nami'd.  This  shaft  it  is  designed  to  sink  to  the  depth  of  1,000  feet,  and  as 
much  deeper  as  it  shall  be  found  practicable  to  go.  Its  dimensions  are  5  by  15 
feet ;  it  is  timbered  or  lined  with  i)laidi  three  inches  in  thickness,  and  by  tlie 
^me  character  of  planking  is  divided  into  three  compartments.  Up  to  July  28 
i  depth  of  175  feet  had  been  reached,  all  of  which  is  substantially  timbered. 
Water  was  reached  at  a  depth  of  145  feet.  The  cost  of  sinking  the  shaft  to  the 
present  time  has  averaged  861  per  foot,  including  all  expenses. 

*  At  1st  of  August  the  tempeiature  at  the  surface  is  82P. 


400  EESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

The  Burns  Shaft  is  projected  by  tlie  same  engineer,  is  for  the  same  com- 
punv,  and  is  of  the  same  plan  and  dimensions,  and  is  named  in  honor  of  B.  J. 
Bums,  local  editor  of  the  Daily  lieese  River  Reveille.  It  is  situated  on  the 
crest  of  Lander  hill,  as  is  the  Sherman  shaft ;  is,  at  its  starling  point,  150  feet 
lower,  and  about  one-fourth  of  a  mile  northwest  cff  the  latter.  It  has  reached  a 
depth  of  SO  feet,  ( Julv  28,)  and  has  cost  about  the  same  per  foot  as  the  Sherman 
shaft. 

These  two  shafts  are  the  enterprises  of  the  New  York  and  Austin  Silver  Min- 
ing Company,  and  are  designed  for  working  the  Florida,  Semanthe,  Rubicon, 
Saratoga,  and  other  ledges  belonging  to  the  company,  and  such  other  blind  or 
non-cropping  ledges  as  may  be  discovered  in  sinking ;  but  more  especially  for 
the  penetration  of  the  basin  which  is  supposed  to  lie  below  the  crust  in  which 
the  numerous  and  parallel  fissure  veins  are  found.  To  continue  these  shafts  to 
a  great  depth,  heavy  and  powerful  steam  machinery  of  not  less  than  200-horsc 
power  will  be  required  on  each,  and  deep  levels  must  be  ran  connecting  the  two 
shafts.  The  machinery  for  the  Sherman  shaft  has  already  been  contracted  for, 
and  will  be  placed  on  the  mine  by  the  1st  of  October  of  the  present  year.  These 
shafts  are  important  and  most  promising  enterprises,  and,  if  carried  out  as  designed, 
will  prove  the  wealth  of  Lander  hill  at  a  great  depth.  It  is  expected  they  will 
be  completed  in  about  three  years. 

The  Magnolia  is  a  location  upon  the  same  vein  as  the  Florida,  joining  that 
claim  on  the  northwest,  and  of  course  in  many  respects  it  bears  the  same  charac- 
teristics. The  vein  is  explored  to  the  depth  of  about  250  feet,  and  bodies  of 
good  ore  have  been  developed.  This  mine  is  locally  distinguished  for  the  high 
grcde  of  ore  that  has  been  taken  from  it  near  the  smface.  Its  greater  depths 
are  but  little  developed. 

The  TiiiOKE. — Lying  between  the  Great  Eastern  and  the  mines  of  the  Man- 
hattan Company  is  the  Timoke,  a  small  mine,  but  one  that  has  been  profitably 
worked  under  the  superintendence  of  W.  F.  Leon,  for  a  company  residing  in 
Boston,  JMassachusetts.  The  vein  is  from  one  to  two  feet  in  thickness,  and  in 
general  character  is  the  same  as  the  others  of  Lander  hill. 

Plymouth  Silver  Mining  Company. — The  Pljnnouth  Silver  ]\Iining  Com- 
pany is  organized  under  the  laws  of  the  State  of  New  York.  It  owns  the  Kale- 
seed,  Parent,  Zimmennan,  and  Jacob  mines  on  Lander  hill,  lying  in  close  prox- 
imity to  each  other  and  i^arallel,  so  that  they  may  be  well  opened  and  worked  by  one 
perpendicular  shaft.  Such  a  shaft  is  in  course  of  construction  under  the  super- 
intendence of  Charles  C.  Lane.  It  is  the  intention  to  sink  this  shaft  400  feet, 
lOS  of  which  has  already  been  reached,  (August  1.)  No  very  extensive  mining 
has  been  done  n})on  these  veins,  only  sufiicient  to  give  proof  of  their  value 
and  to  encourage  thorough  opening.  A  few  tons  of  ore  from  the  Kaleseed  lode 
was  lately  reduced  and  showed  a  value  for  first-class  ore  of  $],7G3  02  per  ton, 
and  the  second  class  a  value  of  8280  53  per  ton.  This  ore  was  taken  from  a 
depth  of  25  feet  from  the  surface.  The  veins  are  quite  small,  seldom  exceed- 
ing a  foot  in  width,  but  the  high  grade  of  ore  which  characterizes  these  and  other 
veins  of  the  neighborhood  has  made  their  working  profitable. 

'J'he  Savage  and  other  Minks. — The  Savage,  Morgan  and  Muncy,  Diana, 
Providencia,  AVhitlatcli,  Union,  'IVoy,  Buel  North  Star,  and  many  others  in  the 
neighborhood,  have  been  extensively  mined  and  at  times  have  been  productive. 
A  description  of  each,  where  all  are  so  much  alike,  would  be  exceedingly  tedious. 
It  may  be  reniiU'ked  that  those  mentioned,  as  well  as  others,  arc  within  an  area 
of  a  few  hundred  yards  square,  and  that  in  the  district  are  several  miles  of  area 
of  equally  good  ground,  judging  fnmi  the  slight  developments  made  upon  the 
surface,  and  where  undoubtedly  as  good  mines  could  be  opened  as  those  men- 
tioned. In  the  great  mining  enterprises  of  Virginia  and  Gold  Hill  in  western 
Nevada,  where  in  the  last  six  years  near  §70,000,000  have  been  taken  from 
the  mines,  there  exists  but  one  grand  lode,  the  Comstock,  which  is  divided  through 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  401 

its  length  into  a  great  number  of  claims,  or  mines,  many  of  wliich  return  largely 
to  their  owners,  -while  some  return  notliing.  This  has  been  the  most  productive 
vein  in  the  world.  In  the  Keeselliver  district  such  a  gigantic  lode  has  not  been 
found,  but  there  extends  a  belt  some  six  miles  in  length  and  half  a  mile  in  width, 
in  which  are  innumeral)le  small  veins,  such  as  here  desciribed,  of  liighly  concen- 
trated ore,  easily  and  cheaply  mined.  From  a  few  mines  upon  this  belt  tlierc^ 
wcri'  prodnc^l  in  the  last  m«mth  §109,221  87.  There  appears  to  l)e  room  for 
many  times  the  present  mining  operations,  with  the  same  ])roportiou  of  produc- 
tion, yet  the  resulting  iigtues  are  so  great  that  one  scarcely  ventures  to  mahe 
the  calculation.  An  increase  based  upon  the  full  development  of  all  the  mines 
(.'f  known  value  would  amount  to  several  millions  of  dollars  monthly,  from  an 
area  not  exceeding  iifteen  scpiare  miles,  the  utmost  capacity  of  the  district.  Upon 
a  close  examination  of  the  ground  the  conviction  is  irresistible  that  there  will  be 
a  greatly  increased  production  wdthin  a  few  years.  A  full  development  of  the 
district  awaits  the  coming  of  the  railroad,  with  capital,  labor,  and  cheap  subsist- 
ence.* 

TiiE  Mills. — An  entnneration  of  the  mills  in  eastern  Nevada,  and  their  capa- 
city, wotild  give  a  wrong  impression  and  seem  incongruous  in  calculating  the 
production  of  bullion,  without  some  explanation.  It  must  be  understood  that  it 
rcipiires  more  to  constitute  a  mill  than  a  set  of  stamps  placed  in  battery,  with  an 
engine  to  work  them,  and  pans  to  amalgamate,  or  furnaces  to  roast  the  ore.  The 
building  reqtiires  to  be  well  and  substantially  constructed;  all  its  successive 
parts  to  be  systematically  arranged;  the  power  full  and  sufhcient;  and  then 
energetic,  economical,  and  scientific  management.  Many  mills  have  been  built 
without  due  consideration  as  to  what  was  required,  and  sotne  upon  experimental 
})lans  which  were  not  successful.  These  have  been  failures,  and  now  stand  idle, 
and  should  not  be  counted  in  the  list. 

*Mr.  J.  P.  Kimble,  in  an  interesting  coramuuication  to  the  American  Bureau  of  Mmes, 
of  New  York,  says: 

'"The  interests  of  the  Reese  river  district  are  rapidly  advancing  under  the  improved  treat- 
ment of  its  ores  of  all  varieties,  and  more  especially  the  utilization  of  those  of  lower  grade, 
which  at  first  were  generally  discarded.  Formerly  only  very  rich  ores  would  bear  the  cost 
of  milling  and  amalgamating,  so  greatly  was  this  augmented  by  the  incomplete  extraction 
of  silver,  as  well  as  by  their  supply  far  below  the  capacity  of  the  extensive  mills,  which 
therefore  could  not  steadily  be  kept  in  operation.  Dry  crushing  and  roasting  preparatory  to 
amalgamation  have  effected  something  towards  the  utilization  not  only  of  the  more  refractory 
autimoniated  ores,  but  also  those  of  medium  grade  and  the  richer  tailings.  In  the  mills  of 
Reese  river  the  standard  of  yield  is  as  high  as  from  80  to  S5  per  cent,  of  the  absolute  value 
of  the  ores  in  silver,  attained  at  a  cost  which  has  gradiuilly  fallen  from  $7.')  to  from  ii?40  to 
§50  per  ton.  The  mills  of  Storey  county  using  Comstock  ores  produce  not  more  than  65 
per  cent,  of  their  value,  though  enabled  to  work  ores  yielding  as  low  as  $15.  Thus  there  is 
entailed  upon  the  Comstock  lode  an  annual  loss  of  .$7,UU0,0U0  ;  upwards  of  $9,000,000  this 
year,  (18G7.)  The  one  thing  needful  above  all  iii  Nevada  is  the  adoption  of  means,  accord- 
ing to  the  varying  circumstances  and  resources  of  ditfereut  localities,  to  concentrate  ores  of 
low  gr.ade,  and,  Avhat  is  practically  the  same,  the  tailings  or  residue  obtained  in  the  dressing 
of  ores  of  better  class.  Tliis  is  an  object  of  far  greater  moment  at  present  than  the  discovery 
of  mining  ground  in  addition  to  what  is  already  far  in  excess  of  available  capital  to  develop. 
The  greater  bulk  of  Reese  river  ores  are  at  present  valueless  for  want  of  cheaj)  dressing  and 
concentration.  In  the  deposits  of  that  district  as  well  as  in  the  Comstock  lode,  first-class 
ores  in  heavy  bodies  are  of  uufrequeut  occurrence.  The  average  yield  per  ton  of  all  Gould 
&  Curry  ores_  reduced  was  nearly  three  times  as  rich  in  180;}  ($80  07)  as  in  1800,  (§28,) 
and  in  18(50  (S15G  02)  was  nearly  twice;  as  rich  as  in  18G3.  That  of  other  leading  mines  on 
the  Comstock  lode  does  not  at  present  exceed  $40  per  ton,  while  in  a  majority  of  cases  it  falls 
below  $".50.  The  books  of  the  assKssor  for  Lander  county  show  40  mines,  mainly  in  the 
Reese  river  district,  to  have  produced  more  or  less  bullion  during  the  quarter  ending  Decem- 
ber 31,  180(5.  The  largest  production  of  ore  was  by  the  Savage  Consolidattal  mine,  being 
451  tons  of  an  average  yield  of  .$103  2.').  The  Great  Eastern  gave  287  tons,  averaging  S~17  94. 
Of  these  44  mines,  two,  producing  lightly,  yielded  about  .$400  per  ton  of  ore;  three  between 
$300  and  §400 ;  five  between  $200  and  $300 ;  18  between  $100  aud  §200 ;  18  below  $100." 

26 


402 


RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 


The  mills  of  pJl  classes  now  standing";  the  power,  stamps,  and  districts,  are  as 
follows: 


Name  of  mill. 


Mautiattan 

Boston 

Silver  Hill 

California 

Long  Island 

Keystone 

Midas 

Metacom 

Ware 

13utte 

Empire  and  Silver  State 

PaiTOtt 

Phelps 

Pioneer 

Knickerbocker 

Kigby 

Pioneer 

Martin's 

Stirling- 

Murphy 

La  Plata 

Buel'.< 

Gould' :< 

Eutland 

Social 

Hope , 

Pioneer 

Valley 

Crescent 

Cortez 


Total 


District. 


Reese  River 
...do 


...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

Big  Creek 

...do 

Union 

...do 


Steam 

..do 

..do.... 
..do.... 
..do.... 
..do.... 
..do.... 

-do.... 
..do.... 
..do.... 
..do.... 
..do.... 

Watrr 

Steam  . 

-do 


San  .'Antonio ..do. 

. .  .do |..do. 

Silver  Peak l.-do. 


BunkevHill 

Twin  River 

North  Twin  River. . 

Philadelphia 

Hot  Creek 

Reveille 

Gold  Canon 

.-..do 

Pabrauagat 

....do 

....do 

Cortez 


AVater 
Steam  . 

..do.... 

..do.... 

..do.... 

..do  ... 

..do.... 

..do.... 

..do 

..do.... 

..do 

..do.... 


Xo.  of 
stamps. 


i 

10 

2:j 
4 

10 
10 
20 
20 
10 
10 
*10 


^  Light. 

Other  mills  have  been  constructed  and  removed  or  dismantled,  which  have 
been  mentioned  in  other  reports  but  do  not  appear  in  this.  The  above  are  either 
in  operation  or  in  condition  to  be  put  in  operation,  although  the  aiTangements  of 
sotne  are  such  that  they  are  run  at  too  great  expense  to  be  profitable,  or  cannot 
compete  with  others  ia  doing  custom  work.  The  majority  are  standing  still. 
Mills  are  in  course  of  construction  as  follows:  One  of  20  stamps  at  Smoky  Val- 
ley district;  one  of  10  at  Hot  Creek;  one  of  40  and  one  of  20  at  Philadelphia; 
one  of  20  at  Pahranagat;  one  of  5  at  Bunker  Hill;  one  of  20  at'  Newark;  one 
of  20  at  Egan,  (Gold  canon  ;)  and  others  are  in  contemplation. 

The  Keystone  Mill,  at  Austin,  may  be  taken  as  a  sample  of  its  class,  from 
its  arrangement,  construction,  and  cost.  It  Avas  built  in  1SG5,  by  Mr.  A.  L.  Page, 
it.s  chief  owner  and  manager,  with  several  additional  buildings,  as  residence  of 
superintendent,  stables,  blacksmith  shop  and  store-house,  all  of  brick,  at  a  total 
cost  of  S91,800.  The  mill  is  divided  into  four  rooms  or  divisions:  1st,  boiler 
and  engine  room;  2d,  battery  room;  3d,  furnace  room;  and  4th,  amalgamating 
xoom.  The  lirst  three  occupy  the  front,  and  the  last  is  in  the  rear  of  the  battery 
room.  Their  dimensions  are  as  follows:  engine  room, 45  feet  deep  by  25  front; 
■battery  room,  45  by  35;  furnace  room,  50  by  140;  and  the  amalgamating -room, 
45  by  35;  making  a  total  fifontage  of  200  feet  Avith  a  depth  of  90  feet.  The 
engine  is  of  GO  horse-poAver.  There  are  20  stamps  of  750  pounds  each,  di-op 
eiglit  in(;hes  and  78  times  each  minute.  There  are  eight  roA^erberatory  furnaces 
Avith  hearths  11  by  13  feet;  14  pans  or  tubs,  five  feet  in  diameter;  six  settlers, 
six  feet  in  diameter;  Avith  retorts,  smelting  furnaces,  &c.  The  total  amount  of 
freight  hauled  from  California  for  this  mill,  as  machinery,  lumber,  and  material 
for  building,  Avas  140  tons,  at  a  cost  for  freight  of  nine  cents  per  pound  from 
San  Francisco.  (The  price  is  noAV  six  cents.)  The  cost  of  the  machinery  in 
San  Francisco  was  $18,000,  and  the  total  cost,  as  stated,  $91,800.     It  crashes 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  403 

dry,  roasts  and  anialgainatcs,  producing  bars  df  Imllioii  at  a  cost  to  the  yiill  of 
S2a  per  ton.  For  custom  \\-ork  it  cliarges  $^5  per  ton  and  agi-ees  to  retnni  80 
per  cent,  of  the  assayed  value  of  tlie  ore.  Twenty  tons  of  ore  can  he  reducedin 
each  24  honrs.  Ft)ur  cords  of  wood  are  used  per  day  in  making  steam  for  the 
engine  and  for  heating  the  pulp  in  the  pans,  and  eight  cords  ibr  the  roasting 
furnaces.  "Wood  usually  costs  $7  j)er  cord.  Salt,  of  which  a  considerables  quan- 
lity  is  used  in  chloridizing  the  ore,  is  furnished  from  the  large  lields  in  different 
parts  of  the  State,  at  from  $30  to  S40  per  ton.  About  200  poiuids  of  (piicksilv(T 
is  used  at  each  charge  of  a  pan,  but  varying  with  the  amount  of  silver  in  the 
ore.  The  quicksilver  costs  (50  to  75  cents  per  ])ound;  about  one  per  cent,  of  it 
is  lost.  The  wages  paid  are,  for  amalgamator,  SIO  per  da^^;  first  engineer,  $8; 
second  engineer,  $6;  fireman,  §6;  blacksmith,  $7;  carpenter,  86;  pan  attend- 
ants, roasters,  and  battery  feeders,  $4  each. 

The  expenses  attending  the  production  are:  first,  mining  the  ore,  exceeding!}' 
variable;  second,  hauling  to  the  mill;  third,  the  State  tax  of  Ij  per  cenr.  upon 
ore  after  deducting  S40  per  ton ;  foiu'th,  cost  of  milling,  $45  per  ton ;  fifth,  internal 
revenue  tax  on  bullion  of  ^  of  one  per  cent. ;  melting  and  assaying  one  per  c^nt., 
and  transportation  to  San  Francisco  three  and  a  half  per  cent.,  making  a  total 
tax  of  six  and  a  half  per  cent.,  besides  the  cost  of  mining,  hauling,  and  milling. 
To  these  arc  to  be  added  the  income  tax,  the  many  stamps  used  on  recci])ts,  certi- 
ficates, checks,  &c.,  incident  to  the  constant  handling  and  exchaiige  of  valuable 
property,  the  customs  and  internal  revenue  tax  levied  on  machinery,  raw  and 
mainifactured  material,  of  which  the  miner  is  a  destructive  consumer.  Thus  it 
will  lie  observed  how  disproportionate  are  the  taxes  imposed  upon  the  miner,  com- 
jiared  to  other  occupations ;  the  tax  being  both  upon  what  he  produces  and  vhat 
he  consumes,  while  he  is  ^\ithout  the  protection  given  to  others.  A  tax  on  iron 
may  be  added  by  the  miner  to  the  price  of  the  iron,  but  a  tax  on  silver  is  never 
returned,  and  the  silver  miner  pays  the  two  taxes.  All  taxes  are  paid  in  currency, 
but  estimates  are  also  made  in  currency  when  taxes  are  so  paid.  The  business 
throughout  the  State,  with  the  exception  of  the  district  of  Pahranagat,  is  earned 
on  in  coin,  estimated  at  par,  and  all  expressions  of  nnniey  used  in  this  report 
mean  in  coin,  unless  cmTcncy  is  expressly  mentioned. 

Official  Retukxs. — A  law  of  the  State  of  Nevada  levying  a  tax  upon  the 
prodwcts  of  mines  compels  the  county  assessor  of  each  county  to  collect  from 
the  mills  and  mines  quart erh'  statements  of  the  amount  of  ore  mined  and  reduced, 
and  the  average  production  per  ton  for  the  quarter  of  bullion  obtained.  This 
statement  is  given  under  oath,  and  the  amounts  produced  are  estimated  in  coin.  The 
assay  value  of  the  ore  is  from  20  to  40  per  cent,  higher  than  the  amounts  given 
in  these  reports,  these  being  only  the  amounts  obtained  from  the  working,  a 
})ortion  always  being  lost.  The  reports  are  for  Lander  county,  but  large  quan- 
tities of  ore  are  brought  to  Austin  from  districts  in  Nye  county,  and  ai'e  included 
in  the  returns.  These,  in  tlie  returns  for  the  quarter  ending  September  30,  ISGG, 
are  marked  thus:  Pniladelphia,*  Danville,!  and  N()rthum])erland.|  The  returns 
for  one  year  furnished,  taken  fro)nthe  assessor's  report,  as  published,  in  the  Dally 
Reese  River  Reveille. 


404  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

Quarter  ending  Se2)tem1)er  30,  1866. 


Name  oi  miue. 


Great  Eastern 

Fortuna 

North  River 

Troy 

Diamond 

Kliuil  Ledge 

Semautho 

Othello 

Idora 

Highbridge  * 

Eastern  Oregon 

Foster 

La  Plata 

Chase  and  Zent 

Canada 

El  Dorado* 

Magnolia 

Washington 

Vauderbiltt 

Morgan  &  Muncey 

Diana 

Richey  &.  HusseyJ 

Detro'itt 

Camargo 

Timoke 

Green  &  Oder* 

Dover 

Isabella 

Harding  &  Dickman 

Providential 

Cortez  Giant 

Transylvania* 

Folsom... 

Savage  Consolidated,  No.  1 
Savage  Consolidated,  No.  2 


Pounds. 


412 

639 

"1 

39 

536 

~> 

1,000 

•  1 

402 

o 

l,-968 

2 

774 

5 

1,135 

10 

1,237 

17 

1 

26 

1,212 

50 

882 

4 

1,000 

6 

1,500 

2 

568 

4 

1,171 

4 

88 

o 

1,670 

17 

631 

17 

503 

7 

612 

4 

1,800 

T1 

28 

253 

1 

600 

o 

450 

19 

503 

1 

1,233 

71) 

1,000 

007 

19 

330 

5 

1,  019 

160 

230 

Quarter  ending  Dcecmlcr  31,  1866. 


Name  of  mine. 


Amsterdam .•. 

Buel  North  Star 

Camargo 

Chase 

Diana 

Enterprise  (White  Pino  district)  ... 

East  Oregon 

Empire  State 

Ensign 

Fortuneteller 

Florida 

Fenian  Star 

Fortuna 

Farrel 

Groat  Eastern 

Idorii 

J.  U.  Murphy 

Josejili  Colo 

Jacob  Uradley 

Ki'yntbne 

Kihook 

Zaidee 

Lodi - 

Llvermore 

Mount  Tonubo  Company  (Cortez) . 

Morgan  &  Muncey 

Magnolia 

Mi'tacom 

Manhattan  Company 

May  &■  Davis 

North  River 

Owen  &  Perkins 

Providential 

Pinuey,  Rev 


1 
4 

12 
4 

143 
1 
4 
7 
1 
4 
13 
7 
1 
3 

287 

"l 
1 
1 

1 
1 
7 
3 


250 
1,920 

973 
1,438 
1,909 


779 

619 

667 

416 

1,900 

1,359 

1,520 

1,453 


1,  605 

100 

1,350 


728 

1,  019 

500 


026 
1,671 


288 
430 
1, 924 
1,700 
844 
600 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 
Quarter  ending  December  3i,  1866 — Continued. 


405 


Kame  of  mine. 


r.itt.n 

iJiiiriii^ton 

•Saviigi'  Consolidated 

SilviT  Queen 

Surprise 

St'uiantbe 

Tinioke 

Taylor  &.  Passmoro,  (Cortez) 

Tanuohill,  (Eureka) 

Vietoria 

WashinptOH 

Mbiilatch 

Zimuiermau 


The  above  table  embraces  47  mines,  which  have  yielded  more  or  less  bullion  duriugj  the 
quarter,  and  with  few  exceptions  the  ore  reduced  is  of  a  good  grade,  sufficiently  so  to  admit 
its  being  worked  here  remuueratively.  It  will  be  observed  that  a  number  of  mines,  which  were 
included  iu  the  previous  quarters  of  the  year,  do  not  appear  in  the  present  list,  as  well  as 
that  several  mines  appear  for  the  first  time.  According  to,the  assessor's  returns  there  are  in 
Lander  coinit}',  and  mainly  in  the  Reese  Kiver  district,  about  75  mines  which  have  produced 
bullion  during  the  past  j'ear.  As  we  have  remarked,  the  ore  worked  is  generally  of  a  high 
grade,  as  the  average  yield  per  ton  will  show.  A  considerable  number  of  the  mines  embraced 
iu  the  quarterly  lists  were  subjected  only  to  testing  operations,  and  the  general  result  must 
be  deemed  encouraging.  In  the  case  of  the  Savage  mine,  the  average  yield  of  the  ore  is  less 
than  iu  several  quarters  preceding,  but  is  still  high,  being  $103  25  per  ton.  The  yield  of 
the  Washington,  Chase,  Buel  North  Star,  Great  Eastern,  Semanthe,  Magnolia,  Florida, 
Tiuioke,  Idora,  Metacom,  Taylor,  and  Passmore,  &c.,  is  excellent,  and  as  most  of  them  are 
jnetty  well  developed,  they  may  be  fairly  classed  henceforth  among  the  producing  and  paying 
mines  of  the  Reese  River  district. 

Quarter  ending  March  31,  1867. 


Names. 


Tons. 

Pounds. 

Average 
per  tou. 

5 

569 

$210  32 

31 

422 

162  56 

K) 

161 

51  52 

•17 

1,678 

238  69 

3 

1,735 

239  90 

1115 

717 

94  30 

101 

1,  394 

351  96 

12 

981 

2D4.  67 

3 

36  44 

4 

319  34 

137 

669 

345  93 

2 

700 

2U0  75 

1 

192  58 

3 

81 

129  18 

5 

1,121 

50  62 

1 

134  48 

4 

738 

267  54 

13 

1,536 

371  82 

1 

150  78 

1 

1,836 

234  45 

384 

360 

141  37 

28 

782 

103  36 

1 

c;i4 

76  36 

1 

1,295 

144  00 

1 

900 

88  90 

3 

148 

60  08 

4 

1,753 

284  71 

1 
1 

96  66 

467 

64  08 

5 

657 

53  73 

1 

650 

55  01 

3 

1,635 

48  00 

7 

254 

132  88 

1 

1,895 

520  05 

3 

1,700 

204  98 

Black  Ledge 

Buel  North  Star,  1st  class 

Buel  North  Star,  2ii  class 

Cortez.  no  name  given 

Dolerhide 

Diana 

Florida 

Farrell  Co 

Fenian  Star 

Fuller 

Great  Eastern 

Glasser 

Idora 

Kelly  and  Ensign 

Leggett 

Lady  Franklin 

Li  vermore 

Magnolia 

Mountain  View 

Miller  &  Co 

North  .Star  (Manhattan  Company) 

Morgan  &  Muncey 

Miller 

Montauk 

Marline 

Niagara 

ODiiir 

Penslee 

Patriot 

Richmond 

Ked  Bluff 

.Stranger 

Semanthe 

Swaney 

Story 


406  El^SOUKCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

Quarter  ending  March  31,  1S67 — Continued. 


Tong.i  Pounds. 


Average 
per  ton. 


Savage  Consolidated 

.Silver  Lead 

Timokc 

Viue}'itrd 

Vaudync 

Wasliugton 

Yankee  Elade,  no  name  given 
W.  C.  Blake 


290 
3 

100 


1,492 
1,042 
1,392 


1,561 

427 

1,628 


$62  77 

88  4'i 

276  5  I 

66  0 

193  3 

312  37 

250  04 

76  08 


On  comparing  this  table  with  that  of  the  preceding  quarter  a  marked  improvement  will  be 
observed  iu  the  average  yield  of  the  ore  produced  by  several  of  the  leading  mines,  as  iveH 
as  in  their  increased  production.  For  instance,  the  Florida  pijoduced  during  the  last  quartet 
301  tons  of  ore,  which  gave  an  average  yield  of  $351  9G  per  ton,  against  13  tons  yielding  an 
average  of  S-55  60  the  previous  quarter;  the  Diana,  I'Jo  tons  which  averaged  $'J4  30, 
against  143  tons  which  averaged  $91  18;  tlie  Great  Eastern,  137  tons  which  averaged 
$345  93,  against  287  tons  which  averaged  $217  94 ;  th«  Magnolia,  13  tons  which  averaged 
^371  82,  against  6  tons  which  averaged  $338  23 ;  tlie  North  Star  of  the  Manhattan  Company, 
384  tons  which  averaged  $141  37,  against  69  tons  which  averaged  $83  90  ;  the  Timoko,  100 
tons  which  averaged  $276  59,  against  79  tons  which  averaged  $148  41  ;  and  the  Savage,  290 
tons  Avhich  averaged  $62  77,  against  451  tons  wliich  averaged  $10S  25.  The  falling  otf  iu 
the  quantity  and  qtiality  of  the  ore  from  the  Savage  is  remarkable,  but  we  believe  the  expla- 
nation is  that  only  a  small  proportion  of  the  ore  reduced  was  extracted  from  the  mine  during 
the  last  quarter,  but  that  the  great  bulk  of  it  ^vas  taken  from  their  dump  pile.  On  the  other 
liand,  the  improvement  in  the  prodttction  of  ore  from  the  North  Star  of  the  Manhattan  Com- 
pany, and  its  increased  average  yield  of  bullion,  is  more  remarkable.  Perhaps  the  most 
striking  increase,  both  as  regards  the  product  of  ore  and  its  yield  of  silver,  is  presented  by 
the  Florida,  the  exhibit  for  the  two  quarters  being — December  31,  1866,  13  tons,  averaging 
$255  60;  March  31,  1867,  101  tous,  averaging  $351  96.  A  number  of  the  mines  embraced 
in  the  present  returns  are  strangers  iu  previoits  lists  ;  indeed,  there  is  reason  to  believe  that 
several  of  them  are  not  the  names  of  mines,  but  of  the  persons  who  delivered  ore  to  the  mills 
for  reduction.  Two  lots  are  returned  from  "  Yankee  Blade,"  not  from  llie  mines  bearing  that 
title — both  of  which  belong  to  companies  and  are  lying  idle — bttt  from  that  part  of  the  Reese 
River  district.  One  large  lot  of  47  tons  of  high  grade  ore  is  returned  from  "Cortez;"  we 
presume  it  was  brought  from  the  Cortez  district,  but  from  what  particular  mine — whether 
from  the  St.  Louis,  Taylor  and  Passmoro,  or  Nonesuch — is  not  mentioned  in  the  quarterly 
statement  of  the  assessor.  This  loose  and  inaccurate  method  of  making  the  return  is  in 
direct  violation  of  the  statute,  and  defeats  one  of  its  principal  objects.  Every  mill,  or 
arrastra,  or  reduction  w^orks  of  anj'  character,  is  required  by  the  law  to  keep  an  accitratc  list 
of  the  name  of  every  mine  from  which  ore  was  delivered,  and  to  furnish  a  sworn  statement 
of  the  same  to  the  assessor.  Of  cotirse,  in  a  district  having  the  nttmberless  locations  of 
Reese  river,  a  person  bringing  ore  to  mill  may  easily  impose  a  fictitious  name  on  the  super- 
intendent ;  but  the  name  of  the  mine  should  be  required  in  every  instance,  and  no  such 
unmeaning  entries  as  "  Yankee  Blade,"  "Cortez."  &c.,  should  be  allowed  to  appear  in  the 
statement. 


Quarter  ending  June  30,  1S67. 


Name  of  mine. 

Tons. 

Ponnds. 

Average 
per  ton. 

2 

20 

127 

2 

3 

o 

3 

2 

37 

I 
13 

173 
5 

320 
y;S6 
331 
882 

1,  295 

1,095 
3.J9 
222 
936 

1,145 
740 

1,300 
385 
825 

$56  19 
104  09 

inaekLcdgo 

Cuel  North  Star 

163  63 

324  45 

Cuba 

114  l."{ 

314  81 

49  47 

103  60 

Elkliorn 

535  41 

Empire  State .       .... 

101  38 

Fuller 

741  67 

206  10 

Farrell  and  Hixon 

366  77 

WEST    OF  THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 
Q-tuoicr  cudi/ir/  June  30,  18G7 — ('iiiitiiiiic(l. 


407 


Name  of  miue. 


(Jiviil  Kastcrn  . ... 
(IfiuTiil  Docbrane. 

CiouiM'al  iSii'sel 

(iiiadolnpo 

l.ivennora 

la  Plata 

I.ibi-nv 


ToBS.   PouudB. 


Average 
per  toil. 


Jlagnolia 

Jlosex  Scramlin. 
Montaiik 


Ni>rtli  Siar,  (Manhattan  Company) 

Norlh  Hiver ! . . 

Olfander 


Oiogou,  (I)ollailiiJe). 
P.ition  and  Monroe  .. 
Prrkins    


Hough  and  Keady ' 

St.  Louis,  (Cortez  district). 
Stony 


State  of  New  York   

Senianthe,  (New  Yoi  k  jiud  AusfaU  Company; 

Sil viT  Cord 

•St.  Louis 


Silver  Parlor 

Social  and  Stoptoc,  (Egan) 

'Iniy.  (X.  V.  S.  M.  Company).. 

Ti-.uokc 

■S'trgiiiia 

Vijuyu.d 

"W^uliington    

AVall  and  iKabella 

M'liitliilch  I'uiou 

\V  iiiilatch  Xo.  2 

■^Duug  Aratrica,  (Mount  Hope) 


1 

2:r) 

$70  91 

2-.:() 

2.'<2  72 

1 

4lrf 

22J  .'Ifi 

1 

lliO 

155  48 

]7;i 

201  84 

1 

■21)0 

73  p;j 

1 

.')>-':i 

50  2;i 

:i!l4 

120  2fi 
50  88 

] 

•)'.)(! 

250  70 

1 

14!)  40 

1 

.'',.").( 

211  rj9 

■XA 

11:5  40 

I'JO 

25:i  89 

9-JH 

14:3  74 

ii(i:i 

214  44 

i)0 

fi:i  CI 

lUU 

12:3  90 

250 

252  5.3 

170 

253  79 

(!;«) 

165  26 

.5:i0 

94  14 

(!{)() 

313  e(> 

19.5 

73  73 

290 

77  24 
90  00 

'198 

87  0(3 

4(iO 

241  49 

9:jo 

2S8  21 

124 

'm)  57 

69.') 

447  69 

500 

137  07 

,')()' ) 

30G  78 

1 

458 

187  18 

158 

80  CI 

T!ic  whole  number  of  tons  of  ore  reduced  during  the  quarter  was  1,438,  which  produced 
lli(!  .sum  of  $-2;!2,:?'J.5  57.  The  average  yield  of  J,4;>S  tons  was  JrilGl  5(1  per  ton — a  result 
that  maintains  the  character  of  Lander  hill,  from  which  it  was  chit^tl^^  obtained,  for  yielding 
a  high  grade  of  ore.  On  comparing  the  jxesent  table  with  that  of  the  previous  quarter, 
;iotal)lc  lliictuations  and  uniformity  will  be  observed.  For  instance,  the  North  Star  miue  of 
the  Manhattan  Company  produced  during  the  last  quarter  5t)y  tons  of  ore,  which  averaged 
§149  4U  per  ton,  against  384  tons,  averaging  §141  Ii7  per  ton,  in  the  former  quarter;  the 
Florida  produced  173  tons,  which  averaged  §".il)(5  lU  per  ton,  against  101  tons,  averaging 
."?3dl  DG,  of  the  former  quarter;  the  Buel  North  Star  produced  127  tous,  which  averaged 
$i03  03  per  toil,  against  31  tons  of  lirsl-chxss  oro,  averaging  $182  ;">(),  and  10  tons  of  second- 
class  ore,  averaging  §51  52  per  ton.  of  the  former  quarter;  the  Timoke  produced  97  tons, 
wiiich  averaged  5?'24l  49  per  ton,  against  100  tons,  averaging  $27G  59  per  ton,  of  the  former 
quarter;  the  Fuller  produced  14  tons,  which  averaged  $741  07  per  ton,  against  4  tons, 
averaging  §349  34  per  ton,  of  the.  former  quarter;  and  the  Diana  produced  37  tons,  which 
averaged  ;^i03  60  per  ton,  against  195  tons,  averaging  !p94  30  per  ton,  of  the  former  quarter. 
The  most  marked  tluctuatiou  is  that  of  the  Great  Fastern,  which  produced  during  the  last 
([uarler  onl}'  34  tons,  which  averaged  .§70  91  per  ton,  against  137  tou^,  with  the  reuuukable 
average  of  §345  93,  lor  the  quarter  ending  31st  of  JNlarch.  Considerable  exploration  has 
been  carritnl  on  in  the  Great  Eastern  during  the  last  three  months,  the  result  of  which  has 
not  been  made  j)ublic.  Several  mines,  which  produced  bullion  in  the  former  quarter,  are 
not  iiichuled  in  tho  above  tabic;  and  others  again,  which  wert^  not  nujntioned  then,  sijipear 
in  tiie  present  return.  The  most  noticeable  of  the  latter  is  the  Gilligan  mine  of  the  Social 
and  Siejiloe  Company,  iu  Egan  canon,  which  appears  in  the  present  table  with  tlie  good 
]irodu(t  of  150  tons,  averaging  $90  jier  ton,  which  is  scarcely  GO  per  cent,  of  the  silver  con- 
tained iu  its  peculiar  ore.     The  returns  of  the  last  quarter  are  generally  eucouraging. 

Following  the  organization  of  Reese  L'ivcr  district,  v.crc  in  the  snnic  year  dis- 
covered and  organized  those  of  Sinijjson's  Taik,  adjoining  it  on  the  south,  and 
further  south  that  of  Big  Creek;  north  was  ]\Lount  lIo})e  and  (jrass  ^'alley ; 
-southeast  were  Smoky  \'alley  and  Santa  Fti,  and  northwest  was  IJavenswood. 
These  nearly  surrounded  Austin,  and  Avere  from  live  to  fifteen  miles  distant. 
All  hat  Ravenswood  were  iu  tho  Toiyahee  mountains;  and  the  fact  that  large 
veins  of  silver-bearing  quartz  were  ibuud  outside  of  this  district  gave  an  impetus 


408  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

to  prospecting,  and  the  mountains  in  their  entire  length  were  explored  and  dis- 
tricts I'onned  throughout  before  the  termination  of  the  year  1863. 

Amador  Distiuct. — Immediately  north,  in  Lander  county,  was  formed  the 
district  of  Amador,  where  the  veins  and  croppings  created  a  great  excitement, 
and  a  populous  and  busy  village  Avas  built  in  a  few  weeks'  time.  This  appeared 
the  most  promising  of  the  districts  during  the  fall  of  1863,  but  many  of  the 
ledges  not  proving,  from  the  diipth  to  which  they  were  explored,  as  rich  as  their 
croppings  promised,  the  district  is  not  so  favorably  regarded  as  formerly. 

The  Amador  Ledge  has  been  explored  by  an  incline  to  the  depth  of  200  fe»t 
and  upwards.  It  dips  to  the  northeast,  at  an  angle  of  about  15  degrees.  During 
this  exploration  much  good  ore  was  taken  out,  and  its  owners  express  confidence 
that  ^\•hen  the  reduction  of  ores  becomes  simplified  and  cheapened  the  mine  can 
be  worked  .at  a  prolit.  There  are  many  veins  like  the  Amador,  which  await  the 
same  events  for  their  development. 

The  Chase  Mine. — In  the  southern  part  of  the  district  is  the  Chase  mine, 
which  has  tlie  ap})carance  of  being  rich.  It  is  but  slightly  doveloj)ed,  yet  shows 
quantities  of  ore  of  an  almost  pure  sulphuret  of  silver.  Operations  have  been 
suspended  on  it  for  several  montlis,  but  it  has  lately  passed  into  the  hands  of  an 
eastern  company,  and  work  will  be  prosecuted  on  it  hereafter. 

Otlter  Mines. — In  the  vicinity  of  the  Chase  are  veins,  some  of  which  give 
assurance  of  value.  The  want  of  capital,  and  the  lack  of  knowledge  of  mining 
engineering,  have  been  obstacles  in  the  v>'ay  of  development  of  many  mines  iu 
this  district  supposed  to  be  rich. 

Mount  Hope,  Cumbeelaxd,  Columbus,  Mouxt  Veexon^,  Indiax,  and 
Wall  Street  Disteicts. — As  before  said,  the  year  1863  was  distinguished 
for  explorations,  but  prospecting  was  then  chiefly  confined  to  the  Toiyabee  range, 
and  to  those  ranges  east  and  west,  next  parallel.  In  the  Toiyabee  to  the  north 
of  Austin  and  Amador,  and  in  Lander  county,  were  organized  the  districts  of 
Mount  Hope,  Cumberland,  Columbus,  Mount  Vernon,  Indian,  and  Wall  Street, 
extending  as  far  as  35  miles  north,  l)eing  continuous  and  including  both  sides  of 
the  mountain.  The  mines  of  these  districts  are  almost  entirely  undeveloped,  their 
croppings  alone  being  known.  I'rom  these  croppings  some  rock  has  been  taken 
from  which  encouraging  results  have  been  obtained,  but  this  vast  area,  probably 
well  stored  with  silver,  is  neglected  and  comparatively  unknown,  awaiting  the 
coming  of  the  capitalist  and  a  denser  population.  It  otiers  favorable  conditions 
for  working  mines,  as  it  iuclud-es  one  of  the  highest  peaks  of  the  Toiyal)ee  moun- 
tains— Mount  Hope — which  attains  an  altitude  of  about  10,000  feet  above  the 
sea,  in  the  deep  canons  of  which  run  a  number  of  streams  capable  of  furnishing 
water-power  for  driving  machinery.  Its  sides  are  covered  with  groves  of  pine, 
and  wh(M-e  its  streams  debouche  into  the  })lains  at  its  base  are  tracts  of  good  agri- 
cultural lands.  In  the  valley's  Avhich  skirt  its  foot  are  some  farms  ;  but  its  min- 
eral A\calth  lies  entirely  neglected.  One  district  has  been  noticed  by  an  expe- 
rienced mining  engineer,  Mr.  J.  II.  Boalt,  who,  after  as  close  an  examination  of 
the  ledges  as  their  slight  development  would  allow,  reported  that  they  were  tnie 
fissure  veins,  of  size  from  4  to  15  feet  in  width,  and  of  unmistakable  value. 
Several  of  the  veins  were  cut  transversely,  and  the  ore  taken  for  trial ;  and  it  was 
proved  that  they  (Mintained  silver  in  paying  (]uantities ;  the  assays  showing  a 
value  of  $100  and  upwards  to  the  ton.  This  is  the  only  reliable  examination 
made  of  the  ledges  (>.f  the  district.  Sui)erficial  as  it  is,  it  presents  some  proof  of 
tlic  value  of  a  neglected  district,  and  an  indication  that  the  great  extent  of  country 
which  this  mountain  embraces  bears  in  its  bosom  the  same  precious  veins  which 
lalior  has  jn-oved  to  exist  in  other  parts  of  the  Toiyabee  range. 

Coktez  District. — The  Cortez  district.  Lander  county,  comprises  the  north- 
em  terminus  of  the  range  east  of  the  Toiyabee,  and  includes  the  lofty  peak  of 
Mount  Tenabo.  It  is  ij5  miles  north,  by  15°  east  of  Austin.  It  was  organized 
in  1863,  and  operations  were  instituted  ou  a  number  of  small  veins  in  the  northern 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY   MOUNTAINS.  409 

part  of  the  district.  In  1864  a  mill  was  constmcted  which  attempted  tlic  reduc- 
tion of  the  ores;  bnt  from  the  iiicomideteness  of  the  mill,  and  the  inexperience 
of  the  manaixeiv,  the  workings  were  not  suceesst'ul,  and  as  a  consequence  disap- 
pointment ensued,  and  the  district  wasloug  negdected.  Subsecpiently,  discoveries 
were  made  of  mineral  existing  in  a  mammoth  vein  or  broad  stratum  of  ([uartzite 
which  coursed  through  Mount  Tenabo,  and  these  bodies  of  mineral  having  proved 
valualde,  attention  is  again  attracted  to  the  district.  The  following  description 
of  this  mountain  and  the  stratum  or  vein  which  bears  the  mineral,  is  iVom  the 
Eeveille,  of  Jiinuary  4,  1SG7  : 

This  vein  is  embedded  in  the  bosom  of  Moimt  Tenabo,  a  peak  11,500  feet  above  the  level  of' 
the  sea,  aud  upwards  of  5,000  feet  aljovc  the  surroundiuj;:  valleys.  Its  base,  up  its  side  to 
the  veiu,  is  covered  with  a  scrubby  pine;  while  its  summit,  aud  1,500  feet  below  is  over- 
f^rown  with  grass  aud  shrubs.  The  scarred  and  rus^rnod  mountain  looks  eternal.  Some  3,000 
feet  above  its  base  a  vein  of  silver-bearing  quartz  cuts  its  face  obliquely,  burying  itself  in 
the  mountain  atone  end,  and  penetrating  into  the  valley  at  the  otlier,  after  stretching  out  in 
palpable  view  to  the  length  of  18,G.J0  feet.  Its  width  is  400  feet.  This  vein,  or  perhaps  more 
properly  stratum,  of  the  mountain  formation  bears  beds  of  ore,  the  extent  of  which  is  only 
conji'cture.  The  workings  at  various  mills  have  proved  encouraging'.  The  veiu  is  encased 
in  crystalline  limestone.  Twenty  locations  have  been  made,  with  the  following  names  and 
dimensions  :  Commencing  at  its  greatest  point  of  altitude  is  the  Chieftain,  Genesee  county, 
1,400  feet;  Murphy  Company,  800  feet;  Gill  Company,  800  feet;  Taylor  and  Passmore, 
800  feet;  De  Witt  Company,  450  feet ;  St.  Louis  Company,  2,000  feet ;  Meacham  and  Brothers, 
400  feet;  Niagara,  400  feet;  Savage  Company,  400  feet;  Nebraska  Company,  1,200  feet; 
Cortez  Giant,  Mount  Tenabo  Company,  4,000  feet;  Elmore  Company,  200  feet;  Russell 
Company,  GOO  feet;  Continental  Company,  1,000  feet;  Argentine  Company,  1,000  feet; 
Empire  Company,  800  feet ;  Conn  and  Brothers,  400  feet ;  Traverse  Company,  400  feet ;  and 
the  Anna  Burr  Company,  2,000  feet.  Tlie  latter  claim  is  somewhat  broken,  and  at  its  ter- 
mination the  vein  penetrates  the  earth  and  is  lost  altogether.  The  vein  disappears  also  at  the 
upper  boundary  of  the  Chieftain.  It  has  been  opened  at  several  points  along  its  course,  in 
every  case  disclosing  mineral.  The  Gill,  Taylor  and  Passmore,  and  St.  Louis  locations,  near 
the  upper  end  of  the  vein,  have  been  worked,  the  two  latter  considerably :  the  Cortez  Giant, 
which  lies  near  the  centre  of  the  vein,  is  the  most  fully  developed,  aud  has  yielded  a  consid- 
erable amount  of  bullion  this  season.  Some  work  has  also  been  done  on  the  Continental, 
situated  towards  the  lower  end  of  the  vein,  with  about  the  same  results  as  in  the  other  cases 
specified.  Of  this  vein  there  is  little  exact  knowledge,  but  that  it  stands  out  upon  the  moun- 
tain face,  a  large,  palpable  fact.  It  will  probably  be  developed.  And  when  that  day  arrives 
we  believe  the  Nevada  Giant  will  be  regarded  as  among  the  remarkable  veins  of  the  world. 

The  Continental. — There  are  but  few  claims  upon  this  vein  developed  to 
any  gi'eat  extent.  Upon  the  Continental,  explorations  have  been  conducted 
rmder  the  superintendency  of  D.  T.  Elmore,  which  have  shown  a  lode  about  300 
feet  in  width,  containing  three  strata  of  ore  of  from  five  to  eight  feet  in  thick- 
ness. These  have  been  mined  to  some  extent,  and  the  ore  reduced  at  the  mills 
at  Austin,  with  a  result  of  about  81.50  per  ton.  This  is  owned  by  a  Maryland 
company,  which,  being  assured  of  the  value  of  the  property,  has  thought  best  to 
await  the  coming  of  the  railroad,  that  operations  maybe  carried  on  chea]ily,  and 
the  greatest  prolit  secured.  The  trans-continentalrail  road  will  pass  within  a  few 
miles  of  these  mines.  When  complet(Nl  to  this  })oint  it  will  cheapen  material  of 
consmuption  by  the  lessening  of  freight,  and  the  time  of  its  completion  is  so  near 
that  noue  can  doubt  the  propriety  of  waiting  for  it. 

Tlic  Cortez  (riant. — The  Blount  Tenabo  ^Mining  Company,  a  San  Fran- 
cisco (u-ganization,  was  fonnerly  called  the  Cortez  Company,  and  its  operations 
liave  been  previously  noticed.  It  possesses  a  claim  called  the  Cortez  Giant,  of 
4,000  feet  in  length,  upon  the  Nevada  Giant  ledge,  and  has  prosecuted  mining 
npon  it  to  some  extent.  It  has  lately  been  under  the  charge  of  H.  J.  Hall,  but 
is  at  present  superintended  by  II.  II,  Day.  A  main  shaft  has  been  sunk,  which 
has  now  a  depth  of  214  feet,  partly  planked,  and  divided  into  two  comptirtments. 
From  the  shaft  several  levels  have  been  run ;  the  second  from  a  depth  of  121 
feet,  whieh  has  explored  the  vein  for  a  length  of  217  feet,  finding  a  stratum  of 
ore  of  eight  feet  in  thickness,  worth  from  SG-5  to  $100  per  ton.  The  shaft  i)assed 
through  the  ore  following  the  dip  of  the  ledge  at  a  depth  of  171  feet.  From  tho 
greatest  depth  a  third  level  has  been  started,  which  it  is  expected  will  find  ore 


410  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

as  good  as  tluit  developed  above.  Steam  lioistiug  works  are  expected  to  be  com- 
pleted within  two  months,  when  work  will  be  prosecuted  to  greater  advantage 
than  at  present.  A  mill  of  15  stamps  belongs  to  the  company,  and  is  usually 
emplo^'ed  in  worldng  the  ores  of  this  mine.  In  this  property  the  vein  assumes 
its  gi-eatest  propoi-tioijs.  Its  croppings  tower  many  hundred  feet  in  the  air,  in 
Avild  and  rugged  grandem".  Viewed  from  a  distance,  as  it  skirts  the  brow,  of  the 
mountain,  this  curious  line  of  croppings  presents  the  appearance  of  a  huge  balus- 
trade to  some  colossal  architectural  structure,  with  the  round  and  treeless  summit 
of  Mount  Tenabo,  11,000  feet  above  the  sea,  ritdng  gently  and  gracefully,  as 
the  crowning  dome  above. 

The  St.  Louis. — Xorth  of  the  Cortez  Giant  is  the  St.  Louis,  owned  chiefly 
by  A.  L.  Page  and  Simeon  Wenban.  In  the  claim  is  a  body  of  silver  ore 
from  which  selected  lots  have  been  transported  to  Austin,  producing  from  $200 
to  $300  per  ton.  Work  is  now  progressing,  and  an  incline  in  the  body  of  ore, 
some  50  or  GO  feet  in  depth,  gives  promise  that  the  mine  will  prove  remunerative. 

Tayhr  and  Passmore,  GiU,  d'c. — The  Taylor  and  Passmore,  Gill,  and  a  few 
other  locations  have  been  slightly  developed,  and  good  ore  obtained.  Upon 
no  others  than  those  mentioned  has  sufficient  work  been  done  to  demonsti'ate  any 
value  in  the  property. 

In  the  northern  part  of  the  district  are  some  small  veins  encased  in  granite, 
which  in  time  may  prove  valuable.  Among  tliese  are  the  Berlin,  Wenban,  Veatch, 
and  a  few  others,  upon  which  A\-ork  has  been  done,  and  ore  of  a  favorable  charac- 
ter obtained.  There  is  no  mining  doing  upon  them  at  present.  There  is  some 
grazing  and  agricultural  land  in  the  neighborhood. 

The  district  is  pleasantly  situated.  Xo  grander  scenery  is  furnished  by  the 
wild  mountains  of  the  interior,  nor  of  the  Pacific  coast.  From  the  high  peak 
may  be  seen  nearly  all  Nevada,  with  its  ranges  of  mountains,  its  isolated  hills, 
broad  valleys,  and  desert  ])lains.  The  Indians  called  it  "  Tenabo,"  which  we 
translate  to  ''  look  out ;"  and  it  is  really  a  lookout  mountain.  Looking  westward 
from  the  summit  in  a  clear  day,  the  white  peaks  of  the  Sierra  Kevada  are  seen 
stretching  along  the  eastern  boundary  of  California,  and  many  a  hill,  bearing 
silver,  gold,  and  copper,  lie  between.  Northward,  but  25  miles  distant,  drami 
athwart  the  vision,  is  the  long  and  winding  line  of  the  Humboldt  river  and  its 
valley  of  meadow  or  sandy  plain.  Eastward  successions  of  hills  and  valleys 
meet  the  eye.  In  the  other  direction  the  dim  atmosphere  of  Smoky  Valley 
limits  the  sight,  but  glimpses  of  the  summit  of  Mount  Hope,  Bunker  Ilill,  and 
other  peaks  of  the  Toiyabee  range  which  pierce  the  clouds,  trace  the  line  for  150 
miles  to  the  south.    The  district  is  attractive  both  for  its  scenery  and  its  resources. 

Netvakk  Disteict. — Newark  district,  Lander  county,  was  organized  in  Octo- 
ber, 1866.  It  lies  on  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Diamond  range  of  mountains,  about 
85  miles  east  of  Austin.  Its  geological  formation  is  of  slate  and  limestone,  the 
latter  carrying  a  great  abinulance  of  fossil  shells.  Deep  chasms  are  cut  in  the 
mountain  side  which  exhibit  the  character  of  the  rocks.  One  of  these  chasms 
or  (canons  is  called  the  ]\liiniehaha.  With  its  towering  rocks,  sparkling  stream, 
and  luxuriant  verdure,  it  oilers  to  the  eye  a  scene  of  rare  beauty.  Another  is  the 
Chihuahua  cafion,  where  the  rocks  seem  burst  in  twain  by  some  great  convulsion, 
and  stand  in  ])erpeudicular  walls,  towering  to  the  height  of  a  thousand  feet.  This 
deep  li^isure  exposes  veins  of  silver-bearing  quartz,  varying  from  2  to  20  feet 
in  width.  The  ore  exposed  is  an  antimonial  sulphuret,  and  is  supposed  to  bo 
valuable.  A  number  of  the  veins  have  already  been  tested  by  workings  at 
the  mills  in  Austin  and  good  returns  obfained.  A  mill,  the  pro})erty  of  the  Cen- 
tenary companv,  is  now  in  course  of  construction  in  the  district,  which  it  is  hoped 
will  soon  add  its  product  of  bullion  to  the  silver  current  of  eastern  Nevada. 
The  ledges  of  the  Centenary  company  Ix^st  known  are  the  Lincoln  and  the  Chi- 
huahua. Upon  the  Chihuahua  tuniil;ls  have  been  run  which  exposed  the  ledge 
in  several  places,  favorably  developing  the  property.    The  district  is  as  yet  but 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  411 

little  known.  Like  nuuiy  others  in  its  uoi_i4'liborlioo(.l,  it  invites  capital  and  labor. 
Kow  a  \vi(k'  and  an  almost  nnoccnjned  wilderness,  it  oilers  many  advantages  to 
the  miner  and  the  agricnlturist.  These  ocen))ations,  beini;-  the  Vjasis  of  wealth, 
will  attract  in  theu"  train  other  branches  of  trade  and  iiidnstry.  The  mountain  is 
partially  covered  with  pine  and  mahog-any,  furnishing  lumber  and  fuel.  At  the 
l>ase,  and  between  it  and  the  White  Pine  range  to  the  east,  is  a  broad  valley 
where  farms  can  be  secured.  The  small  streams  which  run  from  the  moun- 
tijius,  on  either  side,  will  supply  water  for  iirigation  and  mining;  the  neighboring 
hills  will  ftu-uish  a  market  for  agricultunil  products.  "Within  the  valley  are 
Siilt  springs,  and  acres  of  land  are  covered  with  this  useful  article,  a  demand  for 
which  is  created  in  the  reduction  of  silver  ores.  A  visitor  to  this  district  about 
the  tinu' of  its  organization  writes:  '^ The  future  of  our  State  is  encouraging. 
The  good  time  may  be  delayed,  but  it  will  come.  Where  there  Js  a  foiuidation 
I'or  prosperity,  there  need  be  no  ap})rehensions  for  the  future.  The  foundation 
lies  broad  and  deep  in  Nevada ;  the  rest  is  the  work  of  time  and  man." 

White  Pine  District. — The  District  of  White  Pino  was  organized  in  the 
autumn  of  18G5,  and  received  its  name  from  the  species  of  wood  growing  upon 
the  mountain.  That  portion  of  the  range  bearing  the  name  of  White  Pine  is 
about  two  degrees  in  length,  is  lofty,  and  generally  covered  with  pine.  It  has 
not  been  unich  explored  for  mines,  except  in  the  district  now  mentioned.  Here 
a  number  of  veins  have  been  located  which  are  represented  to  be  valuable.  The 
district  is  about  90  miles  east  of  Austin,  and  is  in  Lander  county.  A  company 
called  the  Monte  Christo  commenced  in  July  last  the  development  of  a  property, 
but  the  progress  made,  or  the  resitlts  obtained,  have  not  been  ascertained. 

Diamond  District. — Diamond  district,  also  in  Lander  county,  lies  upon  the 
Avesteru  sloi)e  of  Diamond  mountains,  and  is  SO  miles  east,  by  a  few  degrees 
nt)rth,  of  Austin.  It  has  l>een  organized  about  three  years,  and  some  work  has 
been  done  in  exploring  and  demonstrating  the  value  of  the  ledges,  of  which  a 
great  number  are  located.  Ore  has  been  taken  to  Austin  for  reduction,  \\liich, 
returning  8150  and  upwards  to  the  ton,  gave  proof  of  value  of  the  veins.  They 
are  yet  the  property  of  the  discoverers,  who  for  want  of  means  were  unable  to 
erect  the  machinery  necessary  for  their  development,  and,  consequently,  have  in 
the  Atlantic  States  and  in  Europe  sought  the  aid  of  capital. 

Eureka  District. — The  Eureka  district.  Lander  county,  was  organized  in 
18G4,  and  lies  GO  miles  almost  dh'ectly  east  of  Austin.  The  geological  i'onna- 
tion  is  limestone,  with  veins  or  bodies  of  metal-bearing  (piartz.  The  chief 
characteristic  of  the  ore  is  an  iU'g(!ntiferous  galena,  Avhich  might  be  reduced  by 
smelling.  Several  tons  sent  to  the  mills  in  Austin  yielded  from  $150  to  $450 
per  ton.  These  i"esults  are  encouraging.  As  some  of  the  veins  are  owned  by 
men  of  wealth  in  New  York,  it  is  expected  that  measiux's  will  be  taken  for  their 
development.  The  district  is  in  the  midst  of  a  good  agiicultural  and  grazing 
country,  and  offers  inducements  to  those  wishing  ai'ree  and  indcipendent  home. 

Egan  or  Gold  Canon  District. — Gold  Canon  district.  Lander  county,  better 
known  as  Egan  Canon,  is  one  of  the  farthest  east  of  Nevada,  l)eing  165  miles  from 
Austin.  It  wtis  organized  in  1SG3,  and  native  gold  showing  plainly  in  the  quartz 
of  some  of  the  veins  first  discovered,  gave  it  tlie  name  of  Gold  Canon.  It  lies 
upon  the  great  tran.s-continental  highway  where  passes  daily  the  overland  mail 
stage,  and  is  connected  with  the  world  by  two  lines  of  telegraph.  A  small  mill 
erected  in  the  year  1SG4,  by  Mr,  John  O'Dougherty,  met  with  success.  It  is 
figain  in  operation,  reducing  ore  which  returns  about  $150  to  the  ton,  A  mill  ui' 
increased  cajjacity  is  in  process  of  constniction  which  it  is  expected  will  add  to 
the  product  of  bullion.  It  is  favorably  located  for  accessibility,  and  the  abund- 
ance of  wood  and  water  give  it  some  advantage, 

Kjnsley  District. — The  Kinsley  district.  Lander  county,  is  distinguished 
i'or  its  massive  lodes  of  copper-bearing  ore.     It  is  in  the  Antelope  range  of  moun- 


412  EESOURCfiS    OF    STATES    AND    TEKEITORIES 

tains  near  the  eastern  border  of  the  State,  45  miles  northeast  of  Egan  and  200 
miles  from  Austin.  The  lodes  are  large,  and  ore  is  represented  as  being  upon 
the  surface  which  shows  by  assay  from  35  to  50  per  cent,  of  copper,  and  from 
S60  to  $100  per  ton  in  silver.  The  district  is  but  little  kno'wii ;  its  distance  fi-om 
the  centre  of  population  and  a  market  render  the  copper  mines  valueless  for  the 
jiresent.  The  Pacific  railroad  now  in  com'se  of  constraction  is  expected  to  pass 
through  this  neighborhood,  when  the  ores  may  be  transported  to  market.  The 
Kinsley  may  then  become  a  valuable  mining  district. 

Ykeka  District. — Yreka  district,  Lander  county,  is  about  75  miles  nortlieast 
of  xlustin.  Reports  of  silver-l)earing  veins  have  been  made ;  but  it  is  almost 
entirely  undeveloped,  and  its  value  is  unknown.  It  is  smTounded  by  a  good 
agricultural  and  grazing  country. 

Battle  Mountain  District. — Battle  Mountain  is  a  copper-bearing  hill, 
situated  about  70  miles  north  of  Austin  and  is  probaljly  in  Humboldt  county. 
In  1S66  it  was  formed  into  a  mining  district  bearing  that  name.  It  is  an  igneous 
formation,  and  through  the  eruptive  rocks  are  veins  of  quartz  associated  ^\ith  red 
oxide  of  copper.  The  ore  is  Vnilliantly  red  and  very  beantiful.  The  district 
borders  upon  tlie  valley  of  the  Humboldt  river,  which  will  soon  be  traversed  by 
the  great  Pacific  railroad,  when  its  ores  Avill  find  a  market. 

Tlie  district  derives  its  name  from  the  range  of  hills  or  mountains  containing 
the  cupriferous  veins.  In  these  hills  a  battle  was  fought  in  the  summer  of  1857 
between  some  Indians  and  a  government  expedition  under  the  superintendence 
of  J(}hn  Kirk,  engaged  in  the  survey  of  a  road  bearing  the  name  of  the  Fort 
Kearney  wagon  road,  Pacific  division.  It  is  a  low  range  of  hills  of  about  12 
miles  in  length  by  five  in  breadth,  fronting  on  Reese  River  valley  on  the  east, 
and  terminating  in  the  valley  of  the  Humboldt  on  the  north.  At  the  southern 
end  is  Copper  canon,  where  the  Troy  and  other  copper  veins  are  found ;  and  at 
the  northern  end  is  Long  canon,  where  the  Trojan,  President,  Mayflower,  Blue 
Bell,  Capitol,  Henrietta,  Fanny,  Morning  Star,  and  others  lie. 

There  are  l>ut  few  companies  formed  for  operating  in  Battle  Mountain  district. 
The  principal  are  the  Emerson  and  the  Austin  companies.  These  are  wnincor- 
porated. 

The  Emerson  Company. — The  Emerson  Company  is  composed  of  General 
W.  S.  Rosecrans,  G.  W.  Emerson,  William  Plumhof,  and  others.  The  company 
owns  the  Morning  Star,  Henrietta,  Surprise,  Fanny,  President,  Trojan  and  Cap- 
itol ledges,  and  extensions  on  some  others.  Upon  those  named,  the  location 
upon  each  is  from  1,400  to  1,G00  feet,  and  the  veins  are  from  10  to  30  feet  in 
width.  All  are  developed  to  the  extent  of  a  cut  of  from  5  to  10  feet  in  depth 
crossing  the  vein  from  side  to  side.  By  this  means  the  width  of  each  vein  has 
been  ascertained,  and  the  character  of  the  ore  shown.  The  gangue  is  quartz  and 
spar  intermixed  with  nodules  and  numerous  veins  of  red  oxide  of  copper.  These 
veins  are  of  various  thicknesses,  from  a  narrow  filament  to  several  inches  through, 
and  run  irregularly  through  the  mass  of  the  vein.  They  contain  native  copper ; 
also  considerable  silver.  The  mass  of  the  rock  will  require  crushing  and  con- 
centrating for  profitable  mining  and  ex{)ortatiou.  This  set  of  mines  is  at  the 
northern  end  of  Battle  mountain,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Long  caiion.  Tlie 
surveyed  route  of  the  Paciiic  railroad  jiasses  about  two  and  a  half  miles  north 
from  the  locations,  and  as  this  great  road  is  expected  to  be  completed  to  this  point 
before  the  close  of  another  year  it  enhances  the  })rospective  value  of  the  ]n'operty. 

The  Audin  Compainj. — The  Austin  Conq)any  owns  the  Troy,  Mayflower, 
Blue  Bell,  and  other  veins  in  the  district,  some  of  which  are  at  Copper  canon 
and  others  at  Long  canon.  The  developments  on  the  Troy  consist  of  an  exca- 
vation some  12  feet  in  width  and  abdut  15  feet  in  depth,  showing  the  size  and 
character  of  the  vein.  It  is  estimated  that  one-fourth  of  the  vein  is  composed  of 
red  oxide  of  copper  having  40  per  cent,  of  metal. 


"WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY   MOUNTAINS.  413 

Ujion  oilier  claims  sonu^  work  lias  been  done,  tli(>  o-cncral  aim  Ix'iiii,'  merely 
to  hold  ])(>ssession  ot"  the  property,  awaitiiii^  tln^  eoustruetion  of  the  railroad. 

Kavknswood  DiSTincT. — Ilaveuswood,  Lander  conuty,  situated  but  15  miles 
northwest  I'rom  Austin,  was  one  ot"  the  earliest  districts  org'anized  in  the  lleeso 
liiver  country,  having  been  fornicd  in  the  lirst  year  ol"  the  discovery  of  silver  here. 
]t  is  in  the  sauio  range  as  Battle  mountain,  though  the  latter  is  almost  separated 
by  i\  low  depression,  yet  it  is  the  northern  terminus  of  the  Shoshone  mountains. 
'J'he  veins  of  Eavenswood,  which  were  located  for  silvcn-,  being  found  rich  only 
in  copper,  disappointed  the  locators,  and  as  a  consecpience  the  district  has  been 
almndoned.  It  contains  veins  which  assay  as  high  as  40  to  50  per  cent,  of  copper, 
and  cmitains  silver  and  gold.  The  district  is  well  situated  for  economical  work- 
ing, bordering  on  the  valloy  of  the  llecse  river,  and  is  tolerably  well  supiilied 
A\  ilh  limber.  Like  many  others  it  awaits  the  coming  of  the  railroad,  cheap  trans- 
j)or'tation  and  subsistence. 

Big  Ckeek  Distkict. — The  Big  Creek  district,  Lander  county,  was  the 
second  organized  in  the  Toiyabce  mountains,  and  it  seemed  likely  at  one  time  to 
eclipse  everything  else.  A  village  was  built,  with  post,  express  and  telegraph 
offices  connecting  with  Austin,  with  schools,  courts,  stores  and  mills,  and  its 
prosperity  and  stability  seemed  beyond  a  doubt.  Veins  were  found  appearing 
full  of  metal,  but  upon  further  trial  their  value  consisted  in  copper,  which  was 
not  profitable  to  work,  and  interest  in  the  district  died  away.  Now  no  attention 
is  [)aid  to  the  mines.  It  is  situated  on  the  western  slope  of  the  Toiyabee  moun- 
tains, twelve  miles  south  of  Austin.  The  creek  is  a  small  mountain  stream, 
aftbrding  sites  for  water  or  steam-power  mills.  It  flows  through  a  deep  canon, 
along  which  are  some  good  farms  and  gardens.  If  the  district  has  not  proved 
remunerative  to  the  miner,  it  has  furnished  pleasant  homes  for  the  husbandman. 
Washington  District. — South  of  Austin  28  miles,  in  Nye  county,  and  on 
the  western  slope  of  the  Toiyabee,  is  Washington  district,  organized  in  1S63,  then 
and  the  subsei^uent  year  the  scene  of  busy  operations.  The  mineral  is  an  argen- 
tii'erous  galena,  abundant  in  quantity.  None  who  have  examined  the  mines  with 
attention  can  hesitate  to  decide  that  they  possess  value.  The  veins  are  from  4 
to  16  feet  in  width,  and  regular  in  their  foi-mation.  Attem})ts  have  been  made 
to  reduce  the  ores,  but  owing  to  want  of  skill  on  the  part  of  the  operators  they 
have  not  l)een  succ(.'ssful.  A  great  number  of  veins  were  located,  a  pretty  village 
was  built,  and  h()])es  of  pros{)erity  were  entertained,  but  the  district  following  the 
usual  course  has  become  almost  deserted.  Its  mineral  resomres,  however,  may 
yet  he  advantageously  developed. 

Mahysville  Distkict. — South  of  Washington  about  15  miles,  in  Nye  county, 
is  Marysville  district,  organized  in  the  same  year  and  possessing  many  similar 
characteristics.  Numerous  claims  were  here  located,  and  great  expectations  were 
once  entertained.  It  is  now  entirely  deserted  except  by  a  few  farmers  who  cul- 
tivate the  soil  of  the  valleys,  irrigating  it  by  tlu;  streams  which  run  dow'u  from 
the  mountain.  The  district  is  well  watered  and  timbered,  and  oilers  advantages 
to  the  settler. 

The  Toyabee  Mountat^s. — On  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Toiyalx^e,  and 
south  of  Austin,  were  organized  during  the  sunnner  of  1SG3  a  number  of  districts, 
covering  that  side  of  the  mountain  almost  continuously  ft)r  a  distance  of  75  miles. 
Throughout  its  southern  extent  the  UKJuntain  rises  from  the  valley  of  Keese  river 
on  the  west  and  Smoky  valley  on  the  east,  and  attains  an  altitude  of  2,000  to 
5,000  feet  above  them.  From  valley  to  valley  through  the  base  (.f  the  mountain 
the  distance  is  from  7  to  10  miles.  From  its  high  peaks  and  through  its  deej)ly 
chasmed  sides  nm  many  streams  of  water  aflbrding  good  sites  for  mills. 

Smoky  Valley  Distkict. — Of  the  numerous  distiicts  organized  on  the  eastern 
slope  of  the  mountain  that  of  Smoky  Valley  was  among  the  lirst.  It  is  in  Lander 
county,  12  miles  south  of  Austin,  and  includes  w'hat  were  once  the  liusy  little 
tamlets  of  Geneva  and  Clinton.     Through  it  run  in  deep  canons  Birch  and 


414  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AXD    TERRITORIES  ' 

Willow  crocks  and  several  smaller  rivulets,  all  of  ■\vliicli  are  lost  in  tlie  valley. 
There  Lave  been  man}'  locations  of  mines  made  in  the  district,  but  they  have 
been  generally  neglected  until  the  present  yeftr.  Latterly  labor  has  been  prose- 
cuted upon  the  Smoky  Valley  ledge,  'which  has  developed,  at  the  depth  of  200 
feet,  a  lode  or  series  of  veins  50  feet  in  thickness,  of  which  about  20  feet  contain 
pay  streaks  of  ore.  Average  specimens  assay  S'60  to  S150  per  ton.  The  upper 
part  of  the  lode  has  proved  quite  baiTen,  but  the  results  obtained  from  below 
give  encouragement  to  the  miners.  In  this  district  the  lodes  are  generall}"  large, 
and  exhibit  themselves  in  some  instances  for  miles  in  length  upon  the  surface. 
They  are  situated  conveniently  for  mining,  and  the  district  possesses  advan- 
tages of  wood,  water,  and  arable  land  for  can-ying  on  cheaply  extensive  opera- 
tions. 

Sa:n'TA  Fb  j)iSTRiCT.-^South  of  Smoky  Valley  district,  in  the  same  county, 
is  that  of  Santa  Fe,  IS  miles  from  Austin.  It  is  composed  of  high  peaks,  pre- 
cipitous ridges,  and  deep,  rocky  canons.  The  bare  rocks  of  the  ridges  and  canons 
expose  to  view  the  white  ledges  of  quartz  in  great  mnnbers.  A  feature  in  the 
mineralogy  of  the  district  is  the  presence  of  gold  in  considerable  quantities  in 
some  of  the  veins.  Notwithstanding  the  imdoubted  value  of  the  veins,  however, 
in  both  gold  and  silver,  no  successful  mining  has  yet  been  carried  on. 

Bx^NTKER  Hill  aijt>  Summit  Districts. — Bunker  Hill  and  Summit  districts, 
Lander  county,  occupy  both  sides  of  Big  Smoky  creek,  and  are  20  miles  south 
of  Austin.  Ore  paying  from  fifty  to  some  hundreds  of  dollars  per  ton  has  been 
mined;  but  the  veins  have  l)een  found  broken  and  iiTCgular,  and  but  little  success 
has  attended  mining  operations.  This  is  generally  attributed  to  improper  man- 
agement, ancf  lack  of  scientific  knowledge  of  the  business  of  mining  and  the 
reduction  of  ores.  The  stream  is  one  of  the  largest  flowing  out  of  this  moun- 
tain range,  and  affords  water-power  sufficient  for  a  number  of  extensive  mills. 
Some  failures  have  retarded  progress  in  what  appears  a  superior  district.  This 
cannot  long  continue,  for  where  uatrn'o  has  done  so  much  by  oficring  valuable 
minerals,  building  material,  and  inexpensive  power,  a  pleasant  climate  and  a  rich 
soil,  man  will  sooner  or  later  take  advantage  of  it  and  reap  the  reward. 

Blue  Springs  District. — Blue  S]>riugs  distnct,  in  Xye  county,  30  miles 
south  of  Austin,  is  so  named  from  a  number  of  deep  springs  or  ponds  which  lie 
in  the  valley  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains.  It  contains  veins  of  quartz  of  large 
size,  reputed  to  be  rich  in  silver,  but  developments  upon  tliem  are  so  slight  that 
their  value  is  not  really  known. 

Smoky  Vallet  Salt  Field. — Xear  Blue  Springs,  in  the  great  Smoky  valley, 
is  an  extensive  field  of  2,000  acres  of  salt  lands,  from  which  is  obtained  most 
of  the  salt  used  in  Eastern  Nevada  both  for  domestic  purposes  and  the  reduction 
of  03-es.  Upon  this  salt  field,  as  upon  some  others  with  which  the  State  abounds, 
the  salt  rises  as  an  efflorescence,  half  an  ilich  or  more  in  thickness,  upon  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  from  which  it  is  gathered.  A  slight  rain  drives  the  salt 
beneath  the  surface,  but  mider  the  influence  of  the  sun  it  soon  reappears.  Hun- 
dreds of  tons  are  obtained  from  this  field  annually,  and  the  supply  coming  from 
deep  S])riiigs  seems  to  be  inexhaustible.  It  is  furnished  for  the  use  of  the  mills 
at  from  $30  to  850  per  ton.  When  it  is  known  that  salt  in  large  quantities  is 
essential  to  the  reduction  of  silver  ores,  the  beneficence  of  a  Divine  Providence 
in  fm-nishing  it  in  such  vast  deposits  and  at  convenient  localities  throughout  the 
country  can  be  api)re(;iated. 

NoitTii  Twix  111  VEii  District. — Forty  miles  south  of  Austin,  in  Nye  county, 
is  the  North  Twin  River  district.  Although  this  region  was  examined  and  many 
claims  located  early  in  the  settlement  of  the  country,  it  was  not  considered  uf 
importance  imtil  recently,  when  work  iqjon  some  of  the  veins  has  proved  them 
to  be  of  large  size  and  great  value.  Deep  caiions,  with  running  streams,  open 
to  the  ])lain,  offering  access  to  the  mines  and  sites  for  reduction  mills. 

The  La  Plata  Mining  Company,  owning  mines  in  this  district,  is  organized 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  415 

nmlcr  the  laws  of  Poinisylvania.  Its  oliicf"  sfoclduildcrs  arc  resident,-!  of  ]{ead)ii<r. 
This  e(>iti])any  owns  the  Twin  Ophirs,  tlio  "William  Bii^'ler,  and  otlier  veins  sit- 
uated in  I'ark  eanon.  Sonic  of  the  veins  arc  larq'C,  and  have  sliown  bodies  of 
good  pay  ore.  Work  upon  one  of  the  Twin  C)phirs  has  develfiped  a  chimney  or 
mass  t»f  ore  of  a  very  singndar  eliaraeter,  being  chiefly  iron  and  resembling  steel, 
bnt  containing  from  $70  to  6>ir)0  per  ton  in  silver.  A  mill  is  in  course  of  con- 
struction, which,  in  a  few  months,  will  probably  add  something  to  the  stream  of, 
bullion  already  beginning  to  flow  from  the  districts  bordering  the  Smoky  valley. 
It  is  mainly  built  of  stone,  with  furnaces  and  chimney  stack  of  bnck.  These 
materials  are  conveniently  obtained  in  the  neighborhood.  It  will  contain  10 
st-ixmps  of  about  700  pounds  each,  crushing  the  rock  dry  and  in  a  condition  for 
roasting.     The  ]iroperty  of  the  company  is  managed  by  G.  B.  JMontgomery. 

Tlie  lji(clri/c  Mining  Companii  is  a  New  York  company,  and,  under  the  super- 
intendence of  Mr.  Stephen  Kidd,  is  developing  the  Buckeye  mine,  situated  in 
Summit  caiion.  The  vein  was  discovered  and  located  in  1865.  The  claim 
consists  of  1,400  feet  of  the  lode  running  north  from  the  cafion.  The  vein  is 
encased  in  limestone,  and,  although  it  sometimes  naiTows  down  to  a  mere  clay 
seam  in  the  rock,  it  appears  to  be  a  true  fissure  vein.  Its  general  width  is  five 
feet,  occasionally  reaching  to  seven.  It  has  been  developed  by  an  incline  fol- 
lowing the  dip  of  the  ledge,  which  is  westerly  0)5°,  to  the  depth  of  100  feet,  and 
l)y  different  levels  several  hundred  feet  north  and  south.  Erom  these  excava- 
tions a  quantity  of  ore  has  been  taken  which  has  yielded,  at  the  Austin  mills, 
$100  per  ton.  The  company  has  located,  under  the  laws  of  Nevada,  800  acres 
of  woodland,  mill-sites,  &c.  Neither  lands  nor  mines  are  entered  imder  any  law 
of  Congress,  nor  are  any  lands  or  mines  throughout  this  region.  The  lands  are 
■nnsuiTeyed,  and  there  is  no  land  office  in  eastern  Nevada.  The  laws  of  the 
United  Stcites  give  peiinission  to  occupy  the  mines  subject  to  the  local  rules  of 
miners.  Survey  and  purchase  appears  to  them  a  useless  expense,  serviceable 
only  to  the  sun'cyors  and  land  ofiicers. 

In  Summit  caiion  are  other  claims,  as  the  S(;ottisli  Chief,  which  is  an  extension 
of  the  Buckeye  south  of  the  canon.  This  has  been  but  slightly  developed, 
having  a  shaft  40  feet  in  depth  ;  its  real  worth  is  therefore  known  only  from  the 
greater  explorations  on  the  IJuckeye.  A  short  distance  to  the  southwest  is  the 
Canada  vein.  This  appears  on  the  surface  to  be  about  nine  feet  in  width,  but 
the  explorations  upon  it  are  not  suflicient,  it  being  encased  in  limestone,  to 
determine  its  extent  and  character.  From  the  surface  several  tons  of  ore  have 
been  taken,  which  give  promise  of  worth. 

Twin  River  District. — The  Twin  River  district,  Nye  county,  is  50  miles 
south  of  Austin,  on  tlie  eastern  slope  of  the  Toiyabee  range,  and  is  at  present 
regarded  as  one  of  the  most  important  districts  south  of  Austin.  It  receives  its 
name  from  two  pretty  streams  on  the  southern  border,  which,  flowing  through 
deep  and  rugged  canons,  enter  the  valley  near  each  other,  and  continuing  })arallel 
for  some  miles  sink  in  the  pjain.  The  characteristics  of  the  district  are  its  rug- 
gedness,  high  and  j)recipitous  mountains,  deep  canons,  and  its  geological  forma- 
tion being  granite  and  slate,  while  the  districts  north  of  it  are  of  limestone.  The 
princijial  mines  are  situated  in  Ophir  caiion.  These  were  discovered  in  18G3by 
S.  Boulerond  and  a  party  of  Frenchmen,  who  located  several  veins,  but  did  not 
publish  to  the  world  their  discovery  nor  do  nmch  t(twards  developing  their  ]»rop- 
erty.  The  year  following  the  canon  was  entered  by  George  II.  Willanl  and 
others,  ledges  located,  a  district  formed,  and  laws  made.  From  that  date  the 
district  has  been  somewhat  noted.  In  entering  the  canon  from  Smoky  vaUey, 
one  feels  almost  forbidden  to  advance,  so  towering  and  jnx^-ipitous  are  the  rocks 
on  cither  side,  which  appear  to  close  the  naiTow  pass  ;  but  winding  along  at  the 
base  of  the  cliffs  is  now  a  well-constnicted  road.  Following  this  a  mile  or  more 
the  nan-ow  gorge  of  granite  is  passed  and  a  caiion  of  more  gently  sloping  sides,  a 
slate  formation,  is  reached.     The  granite  is  generally  barren  of  soil,  but  upon 


416  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND   TERRITORIES 

the  eummits  of  tlie  ridges  a  few  low  and  dwarfed  piuon  trees  are  found,  wliicli  are 
cut  for  fuel  and  witli  great  labor  brought  to  the  brink  of  the  precipice  and 
tumbled  into  tlie  canon  below,  whence  it  is  hauled  to  its  place  of  consumption. 
Fuel  is  difficult  to  obtain,  and  costs  about  $10  per  cord.  At  the  present  date  a 
mill  is  iu  operation,  and  a  village  called  Toivabec,  of  300  inhabitants,  has  been 
buik. 

The  Oplur, — The  first  vein  noticed  in  passing  up  the  canon  is  the  Ophir. 
This  was  discovered  and  claimed  by  S.  Boulerond  and  Company  in  1863,  and 
is  still  owned  by  the  same  parties.  It  is  a  large  vein,  showing  chiefly  white 
quai-tz,  but  deposks  of  good  ore  have  been  found  in  it.  The  claim  consists  of 
2,400  feet  along  the  ledge.  A  shaft  has  been  sunk  to  the  depth  of  60  feet,  from 
which  a  small  quantity  of  ore  was  obtained,  worth  at  the  rate  of  §500  per  ton. 
The  developments  upon  the  mine  are  very  slight. 

Tlte  Orplice,  Central  Favorite,  and  numerous  otlier  claims  have  been  slightly 
developed,  but  have  not  yet  been  productive. 

The  Miojihi)  is  the  only  developed  and  productive  mine  in  this  neighborhood, 
and  its  success  has  given  celebrity  to  the  district.  It  was  located  by  G.  H. 
Willard,  John  Murphy,  Jo.  Patty,  and  others,  in  1864,  and  is  1,000  feet  in  length. 
Its  course  is  north  and  south,  dipping  to  the  east  at  an  angle  of  46^,  and  the 
lode  is  about  20  feet  in  thickness.  It  has  been  developed  by  an  incline  130  feet 
in  depth,  from  which  levels  have  been  run  and  ore  extracted,  worth  about  SI 30 
per  ton.  It  appears  fiom  the  working  that  the  ore  is  not  continuous  throughout 
the  vein,  but  exists  in  chimneys  of  one  to  seven  feet  in  thickness,  and  from  100 
to  150  feet  broad,  with  nearly  a. corresponding  interval  of  barren  rock.  These 
chimneys  are  inclined,  having  a  dip  to  the  north  of  about  30°.  Although  much 
valuable  ore  has  been  extracted,  a  map  of  the  mine,  showing  its  whole  size  and 
the  excavations  made,  indicate  that  but  a  small  portion  is  touched.  There  are 
41  men  employed  in  the  mine,  working  eight  hours  each,  at  $4  per  day,  and 
keeping  up  the  labor  without  intermission.  The  miners  are  usually  natives  of 
Cornwall,  England.     The  hoisting  of  water  and  ore  is  done  by  steam  power. 

Tlie  Mmyhy  Milt,  belonging  to  the  Twin  Eiver  Mining  Company,  is  a 
sul)stantial  structm-e  of  stone,  having  20  stamps  and  coixesponding  machinery, 
driven  by  an  Ctogine  of  95  horse-power.  Tlie  ore  is  brought  from  the  mine,  a 
few  hundred  feet  distant,  in  cars.  The  first  process  is  to  pass  it  through  a 
Blake's  rock  breaker,  which  will  in  a  few  hours  break  sufficient  rock  into  frag- 
ments of  less  than  a  cubic  inch  in  size  to  supply  the  stamps  for  24  hours.  This 
effects  a  saving  of  $2  per  ton  in  the  cost  of  crushing  the  ore.  From  the  breaker 
the  ore  is  placed  upon  a  large  pan  or  dryer,  which  is  heated  by  the  gases  passing 
from  the  roasting  fm'uaces  to  the  smoke-stack,  and  is  thoroughly  dried.  It  is 
then  ready  for  the  stamps.  Of  these  there  are  20,  weighing  850  pounds  each, 
and  they  cnish  16  tons  per  day  fine  enough  to  pass  through  a  No.  60  screen,  or 
a  screen  with  3,600  holes  to  the  square  inch.  Falling  from  the  screens  into  a 
tig-ht  Ijin,  it  is  removed  into  cars  standing  on  a  track  i)assing  over  the  tops  of  the 
roasting  furnaces,  and  is  thus  transported  to  the  furnaces,  of  which  there  are 
eight,  capable  of  roasting  16  tons  in  24  hours.  Seven  to  nine  hundred  pounds 
of  ore  mixed  with  a  certain  quantity  of  salt,  according  to  the  composition  of 
tlie  ore,  varying  from  eight  to  fifteen  per  cent.,  constitutes  a  charge,  and  this  is 
roasted  from  five  to  seven  hours,  being  constantly  stiiTcd.  It  is  then  taken  to 
the  amalgamating  room,  in  which  are  six  pans  taking  one  ton  of  the  roasted 
pulp,  now  mixed  with  water,  at  a  charge.  Here  the  silver,  which  in  the  fiu'naces 
was  changed  from  its  native  condition  to  a  chloride,  is  again  changed  to  metallic 
.silver,  and  is  amalgamated  with  quicksilver.  The  pulp  is  agitated  and  ground 
by  revolving  iron  mullers  for  about  six  hours,  when  it  is  drawn  ofi"  into  settlers, 
of  which  there  are  six,  where  more  water  is  added,  and,  after  several  hours' 
agitation,  the  quicksilver  bearing  the  silver  is  dra^m  off,  the  pulp  allowed  to  run 
to  waste,  and  the  silver  taken  out.     This,  after  being  strained  and  pressed  in 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


417 


IcrttluM"  l)a<i"s,  r\li;uistini;"  tlic  (piirksilvor  as  far  as  possible,  is  placed  in  a  close 
retort,  and  the  retuaiiiiiii;'  ipiieksilver  expelled  \>y  heat.  The  crude  Indlioii 
remaining  is  then  taken  to  the  smelting  room,  where  it  is  melted  and  run  into 
iuiTots.  ready  lor  the  assayer  and  for  etmunerce.  The  establishment  is  very  com- 
jdete,  and  presents  an  injjiosino-  appearance.  The  officers  of  the  company  liaving 
eliarge  and  carrying  on  the  Avorks,  are  R.  13.  Cunlield,  general  agent ;  II.  M. 
(i  rant,  bookkeeper ;  II.  liichards,  mining  superintendent;  Charles  V.  Baesler, 
assayer;  and  Alonzo  Monroe,  engineer.  In  working  the  mill  at  full  capacity, 
41  men  arc  required.  Besides  those  in  the  mine  and  mill  are  blacksmiths,  ore 
nssortcrs,  and  wood  choppers,  making  100  men  employed.  In  one  month  417 
tons  of  ore  were  milled,  producing  $36,865.  The  assay  of  the  ore  was  over 
SlOO  per  ton.  At  the  present  date  the  mill  is  working  to  its  full  capacity,  and 
better  results  than  formerly  are  obtained. 

The  JIcDomdd  mine. — The  Murphy  and  McDonald  are  locations  upon  the 
same  lode,  the  first  extending  from  the  canon  northwardly  and  the  latter  south 
of  it.  It  is  anticipated  that  they  are  of  equal  value,  although  the  McDonald  is 
imdeveloped.  Preparations  are  making,  under  the  superintendence  of  John  II. 
Boalt,  for  a  New  York  company  to  commence  explorations  and  developing  the 
mine. 

These  mines  constitute  the  basis  of  support  to  a  busy  and  prosperous  little 
village,  called  Toiyabee  City,  of  about  300  inhabitants.  This  place  is  connected 
■with  Austin  by  a  tri-wcekly  stage,  canying  the  United  States  mail  once  a  week. 
The  distance  is  55  miles,  and  the  time  of  passage  about  nine  hours.  From  the 
valley  to  the  town  is  about  two  and  a  half  miles  along  the  caiion,  and  through 
this  distance  a  road  has  been  constructed  at  a  cost  of  about  66,000.  The  work 
has  been  very  heavy,  and  under  the  circumstances  a  good  road  is  constructed, 
although  its  grade  at  some  places  is  as  great  as  10°.  The  road  continues 
through  this  canon  over  the  summit  of  the  Toiyabee  mountain,  and  forms  a  con- 
venient avenue  for  summer  travel,  but  the  passage  is  generally  im])eded  by  snow 
dtu'iniT  the  winter.* 


*  The  books  of  the  county  assessor,  accorclino^  to  the  Silver  Bend  Reporter,  give  the  fol- 
lowing returns  of  bullion  and  yield  per  ton  of  the  mines  of  Nye  county  for  the  quarter  ending 
September  liO,  made  under  oath.     The  amounts  are  for  coin: 


Twin  River  Company. 

Murphy  Mine 

Belmont  Company 

Transylvania,  1 

Belmont  Company 

Transylvania,  2 


Tons. 


800 
73G 

21 


Gross. 


$107,  544  00 

28, 856  88 

837  06 


Amount 
per  ton. 


$143  43 
39  33 
39  86 


Following  are  the  returns  of  small  lots  of  ore  from  tliis  county,  worked  at  mills  in  the 
vicinity  of  Austin,  and  forwarded  by  the  assessor  of  Lander  ceunty.  We  merely  give  the 
number  of  pounds  of  ore  worked  and  the  gross  product: 

Pounds.  Gross  yield. 

Indian  Jim,  Hot  Creek  district 1,915  $90  80 

OldDorainion do 3,630  206  24 

Gazelle do 11,314  753  30 

Desert  Queen,  Reveille  district 3,083  474  Sd 

Wild  Rose do 2,277  149  69 

North  America do 1, 172  68  75 

Manhattan do 2,639  292.01 

Lord  Byrou do 2,2.')4  106  65 

Button do 600  8  84 

Regan do 2,792  30  68 

Lexington do 2,764  235  00 

Peta,  Union  district 1 ,  971  63  46 

Holman,  Union  di.strict 2,031  295  34 

The  books  of  the  county  assessor  show  the  following  annual  product  of  two  of  the  leading 
mines  of  Nye  county:  From  October  1  to  December  31,  1866,  the  Buel  mill  (now  the  Bel- 

27 


ffTT^IV 


418  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

South  Twin  Rivek,  Hot  Smixos,  El  Dorado,  an^d  Pea  vine  Districts. — 
The  districts  of  South  Twin  River,  Hot  Springs,  El  Dorado,  and  Peavine,  all 
in  Nye  county,  continue  in  the  order  in  which  they  ai'e  named  to  near  where  the 
mountain,  which  we  have  traced  for  150  miles,  falls  away  into  tlie  plain.  Although 
but  slightly  explored, 'the  opinion  is  expressed  that  the  mines  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  Toiyabee  range  will  equal  those  of  other  parts,  and  that  this  exten- 
sive country  ofl'ers  an  inviting  field  to  the  explorer  and  the  capitalist. 

Smoky  Valley. — The  great  Smoky  valley,  traversed  by  Fremont  in  1845, 
who  mapped  Big  Smoky  creek  and  Twin  ri\-ers,  is  worthy  of  special  mention. 
In  the  centre  of  it  are  found  remarkable  springs  of  boiling  water,  throwing  a 
■  large  and  constant  stream,  in  which  meat  and  vegetables  are  readily  cooked, 
and  tea  and  cofi'ee  quickly  prepared  for  use.  The  basin  of  the  spring  is  from  20 
to  30  feet  in  diameter,  and  the  fountain  of  boiling  water  rises  in  the  centre,  a 
constant  column  ascending  by  its  subteiTanean  force  several  feet  above  the  sur- 
face. There  are  scvei'al  smaller  springs  in  the  neighborhood,  one  of  which 
furnishes  cold  water.  The  soil  about  them  is  fertile,  and  the  climate  pleasant 
and  healthy. 

The  fields  of  salt  in  the  northern  part  of  the  valley  have  already  been  men- 
tioned. Throughout  it  are  found  good  agricultural  lands.  The  climate  is  more 
agreeable  than  generally  prevails  in  Nevada,  without  extremes  of  heat  or  cold. 
Snow  seldom  falls  and  frosts  are  never  severe,  although  there  are  localities  where 
frosts  have  occuiTcd  as  early  as  September,  sufficient  to  blight  certain  species  of 
vegetation.  The  vallej'  continues,  although  slight  elevations  divide  it  into  dif- 
ferent basins,  into  the  desert  upon  the  southern  borders  of  the  State.  In  it  are 
other  vast  fields  of  salt,  and  beds  of  sulphur,  alum,  and  soda,  and  bordering 
upon  it  are  the  mountains  of  San  Antonio  and  Silver  Peak.  These  are  isolated 
and  singular  in  their  formation,  and  appear  as  if  thrown  into  position  by  some 
violent  convulsion  of  nature.  The  mining  districts  of  this  region  are  among 
the  most  important  of  the  State. 

San  Antonio  District,  comprising  the  mountain  of  that  name,  is  situated 
about  20  miles  southeast  of  the  southern  terminus  of  the  Toiyabee  mountains, 
and  about  90  miles  from  Austin.  Several  companies  are  engaged  in  mining 
here  with  some  success,  and  ore  is  extracted  which  retmiis  from  reduction  an 
average  of  $200  per  ton. 

The  lAhciiij  mine,  ow'ned  by  George  Seitz,  has  been  continuously  worked 
during  the  present  year.     It  is,  so  far,  the  most  extensively  worked  mine  in  the 

mont  Company's)  reduced  904  tons  of  ore,  producing  bullion  of  the  value  of  $52,712  24, 
beinpf  an  average  per  ton  of  $.')8  31 ;  the  three  mouths  fullowing — January,  February,  and 
Mareli,  IddT — .554  tons  and  a  fraction  were  reduced,  yielding  !j!:)3,041  39,  or  $59  (34  per  ton; 
the  next  quarter,  125  tons,  1,339  pounds,  producing !j(i,9U3  02,  $!54  93  per  ton;  and  676 tons, 
1,010  pounds,  which  produced  $26,439  77,  or  $39  08  per  ton.  The  amounts  added  to  the 
production  of  the  quarter  ending  on  the  30th  of  September,  of  736  tons,  yielding  $28,856  88 — 
$39  33  per  ton,  and  21  tons,  yielding  $837  06— $39  86  per  ton,  swells  the  total  product  of 
this  mine  for  the  past  year  to  $148,790  36  in  coin.  The  aggregate  number  of  tons  of  ore 
worked  is  a  fraction  over  3,917 — averaging  very  nearly  $00  per  ton.  It  was  reduced  in  a 
10-stamp  mill,  at  best  but  an  inferior  one,  by  the  wet  crushing  process,  by  which  it  is  not 
claimed  that  mure  than  about  65  per  cent,  of  the  silver  is  saved.  In  connection  with  the  fact 
that  the  mine  from  which  the  ore  was  obtained  is  practically  uiexhaustibie,  and  can  be  made 
to  furnish  almost  any  amount  of  ore,  the  above  figures  will  furnish  a  basis  upon  which  to 
estimate  its  great  value.  D«ring  the  same  period,  the  Murphy  mine,  of  the  Twin  River 
Company,  situated  in  Ophir  cafiou,  as  is  shown  by  the  books  of  the  assessor,  has  yielded  as 
follows:  first  quarter— 626^  tons,  averaging  $132  49  per  ton,  $83,007  96;  second  quarter— 
l,16l|  tons,  averaging  $84  18  per  ton,  $97,775  08;  third  quarter— 804it  ton.s,  averaging 
$92  94  per  tun,  $74,863  17;  fourth  quarter— 800  tons,  averaging  $134  43  per  ton,  $107,544, 
making  a  total  of  $363,190  21  in  coin  in  a  twelvemonth.  The  agm-gate  quantity  of  ore 
worked  is  3,393^  tons,  and  the  averag(>  yield  per  ton  a  fraction  over  ij;] 07.  We  are  informed 
that  the  Murphy  mine  is  now  in  a  condition  to  supply  ore  for  another  mill  of  equal  capacity 
as  the  one  in  use,  a  number  of  levels  having  already  been  run  which  disclose  hundreds  of 
feet  in  length  along  the  vein,  and  for  a  depth  of  near  200  feet  a  compact  mass  of  solid  ore 
Eome  10  or  12  feet  thick. 


\ 


I 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.'  419 

district,  and  bids  fair  to  be  remunerative.  A  depth  of  200  feet  has  been  reached 
and  no  water  obtained,  "i'he  motuitain  is  dr}'-,  barren,  and  broken.  A  few  miles 
to  the  northwest  are  the  Indian  sprins^s,  where  two  small  quartz  mills  have  been 
constructed.  As  more  vij^orous  work  is  now  prosecuted  \ipon  the  mines  of  this 
district  than  formerly;  they  will  probably  soon  take  the  rank  in  jjublic  esteem 
to  which  their  value  entitles  them. 

SiLVEK  Peak,  Red  Mountain,  Palmetto,  Ltda,  and  Edmonton  Dis- 
tricts.— The  districts  of  Silver  I'eak,  Red  Mountain,  Palmetto,  Lida,  and 
Edmonton  comprise  the  southwestern  part  of  the  territory  which  has  been  pros- 
pected by  people  who  have  made  Austin  their  base  of  o})eratious. 

Silver  Peak  and  Red  ]\Iountain  are  contiguous,  lying  about  150  miles  south 
by  west  from  Austin.  Silver  Peak  is  a  small,  preci[)itous  mountain,  through 
which,  lying  at  a  low  angle,  cuts  the  Vanderbilt  vein,  cropping  on  all  sides. 
The  value  of  this  vein  has  been  very  highly  estimated.  Other  good  veins  exist 
in  the  district. 

In  the  valley  skirting  the  eastern  base  of  the  mountain  is  an  extensive  salt 
field,  covering  an  ai'ea  of  30  square  miles,  and  capable  of  furnishing  an  unlimited 
supply  of  salt. 

The  Red  Mountain  district,  a  few  miles  east  of  Silver  Peak,  is  distinguished 
for  its  production  of  gold. 

Great  Salt  Basin  Company. — The  mines  of  these  two  districts  are  chiefly 
owne<l  by  a  single  company,  the  Great  Salt  Biisin  Gr.  &  S.  M.  Company,  organ- 
ized by  S.  B.  JMartin  and  John  W.  Ilarker.  They  have  already  a  mill  of  10 
stamps,  which  has  produced  considerable  bullion.  The  company  is  about  to 
erect  two  other  mills  of  greatly  increased  capacity.  Mining  is  to  be  carried  on 
systematically.  I'he  superintendent  is  JMr.  J.  E.  Clayton,  a  competent  mining 
engineer,  and  the  nominal  capital  $3,000,000.  The  company  owns  many  mines 
in  the.<e  districts,  the  principal  of  which  are  the  Vanderbilt,  Pocatillo,  and  Sisson. 
The  bullion  obtained  at  the  mill  from  the  Vanderbilt  ore  is  worth  $2  per  ounce, 
while  that  of  Red  Mountain  is  chiefly  gold. 

The  developments  in  Palmetto  district  have  proved  several  of  the  veins  to  be 
large  and  valuable.  Gold-bearing  quartz  is  also  found,  which  indicates  an  abun- 
dance of  that  metal.  The  district  derives  its  name  from  a  species  of  date  tree, 
which  was  mistaken  by  the  discoverers  for  the  palmetto. 

Columbus,  Volcano,  Clarendon,  Paradise,  Pilot,  Mammoth,  Union, 
and  North  Union  Districts. — These  districts  are  generally  classed  as 
belonging  to  eastern  Nevada  or  Reese  river,  although  they  are  in  the  western 
half  of  the  State.  Each  has  peculiarities,  which  to  describe  in  detail  would  be 
beyond  the  limits  of  this  report. 

Clarendon  district  contains  silver-bearing  veins,  the  character  of  the  ore 
being  the  same  as  that  of  Silver  Bend,  southeast  of  Austin.  It  has  a  pleasant 
vilhige  of  about  80  inhabitants,  with  families,  a  school,  and  church  society, 
indications  of  the  respectability  and  good  order  of  the  community. 

Volcano  district  is  peculiar  in  its  formation,  and  is  supposed  to  possess  quick- 
silver and  coal  mines,  as  well  as  gold,  copper,  and  silver,  but  is  most  familiarly 
known  from  its  fossils,  which  are  rare  and  beautiful. 

Paradise  district  receives  its  name  from  its  pl<!asant  location,  and  its  abundant 
wood,  water,  and  vegetation. 

These  are  situated  from  90  to  150  miles  southwest  of  Austin. 

Mammoth  district  is  situated  65  miles  southwest  of  Austin,  and  its  condi- 
tion is  promising.  The  ilount  Vernon  Com{iany  are  jn'osecuting  an  extensive 
system  of  w(uks,  which  will  develop  the  mines  and  prove  the  value  of  tlu^  dis- 
trict. The  Hamilton  Gold  and  Silver  Mining  Com[)uny  have  several  excellent 
mines  in  this  district,  but  they  are  not  yet  developed  to  any  considerable  extent. 

Union  district  lies  on  the  western  slope  of  the  Shoshone  mountains,  the  first 
range  west  of  Reese  river,  and  is  about  55  miles  southwesterly  from  Austin. 


420  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

It  contains  leJges  of  undonhted  value  and  fiicilities  for  the  reduction  of  ore,  such 
as  an  abundance  of  wood  and  water.  The  district  was  early  brought  into  notice, 
yet  its  progress  has  been  slow  and  its  jjroduction  of  bullion  slight.  It  is  inter- 
esting from  the  beauty  and  abundance  of  geodes,  valuable  to  the  jeweller  and 
lapidary,  found  in  it.  Chalcedory,  agate,  jasper,  and  other  precious  stones  also 
abound. 

North  Union-  district  is  almost  entirely  undeveloped,  but  is  favorably  regarded 
by  those  who  are  acquainted  with  its  mines  and  resources. 

New  Pass  District  lies  almost  directly  west  of  Austin,  25  miles  distant.  It 
has  been  organized  two  years  and  is  yet  undeveloped.  Mineralogists  and  engineers 
have  given  it  a  pai-tial  examination  and  have  pronounced  favorable  opinions 
respecting  its  resources.  The  predominant  metal  is  gold.  The  veins  are  numer- 
ous and  well  situated  for  mining. 

We  may  now  turn  to  that  portion  of  Nevada  southeast  from  Austin.  This 
until  within  the  past  year  was  to  the  general  public  a  terra  iiicognita,  and  believed 
to  be,  as  it  was  represented  upon  the  maps,  an  inhospitable  desert,  treeless  and 
verdureless,  and  barely  subsisting  the  few  miserable  Indians  who  wandered  over 
its  barren  plains.  But  the  prospector  at  last  ventured  upon  its  exploration,  and 
tlie  results  have  been  unexpectedly  important.  A  country  of  vast  extent  has 
been  unveiled  to  the  world ;  the  rocks  seamed  with  veins  of  silver,  and  the  valleys 
abounding  in  valuable  grasses.  Not  repelling  the  explorer,  it  invited  him  on, 
until  at  last  the  chorography  of  the  country  has  been  made  known.  The  west- 
ern slope  of  the  mountain  bordering  Smoky  valley  on  the  east  had  been  slightly 
explored,  and  the  districts  of  Jefferson,  Manhattan  and  Santa  Clara  fomied. 

Under  the  general  belief  prevailing  that  silver-bearing  ledges  found  elsewhere 
than  in  the  Toiyabee  were  exceptional,  little  attention  was  paid  to  the  discoveries 
reported  to  have  been  made  in  these  districts  until  subsequent  to  the  discovery 
of  the  ledges  of  Silver  Bend.  Since  then  more  attention  has  been  paid  to  them, 
and  they  are  now  found  to  be  of  some  importance.  Little,  however,  has  been 
done  towards  the  development  of  any  mine  in  them. 

Silver  Bend. — A  section  of  country  soutlieast  of  Austin  bears  the  general 
name  of  Silver  Bend.  It  was  first  entered  by  prospectors  at  an  early  day  in  the 
settlement  of  eastern  Nevada,  but  no  discoveries  of  mineral  were  made  until 
October,  1865,  when  ledges  cropping  out  in  massive  proportions  and  showing  sil- 
ver-bearing ore  were  found.  But  little  work  was  done,  or  attention  paid  to  these, 
until  May,  1866,  when  Dr.  William  Geller,  now  general  agent  of  the  Combi- 
nation S.  M.  Company  of  New  York,  was  attracted  by  the  statement,  and  paid 
the  locality  a  visit.  He  was  at  once  convinced  of  its  worth,  and  purchased  the 
interest  of  the  locators  of  the  Highbridge  ledge,  being  3,000  feet  in  length,  for 
the  sum  of  $24,000  in  currency.  Soon  afterwards  work  was  commenced  under 
the  superintendence  of  L.  B.  Moore,  who  is  now  carrying  on  the  company's 
operations.  Mr.  D.  E.  Buel  and  others  subsecpiently  visited  the  district,  and 
reports  of  its  wealth  were  published  in  the  Reese  River  Reveille,  with  descrip- 
tions of  the  mines  and  surrounding  country.  From  that  time  it  began  to  attract 
attention  from  all  ])arts  of  the  State.  People  gathered  in  the  vicinity;  the  terra 
incorjnita  of  the  southeast  was  explored  and  many  districts  organized.  The  town 
of  Belmont  was  Imilt,  vvhich  is  now  a  flourishing  village  and  the  shire  town  of 
Nve  county.  The  following  particulars  of  the  mines  have  been  obtained  chiefly 
from  ]\Ir.  J.  E.  Moloney  of  Belmont.     He  says  of  the 

Philadelpiiia  District. — This  district,  eiToneously  called  '' Silver  Bend," 
is  situated  about  85  miU's  south  by  east  from  Austin,  on  the  eastern  slope  of  the 
Smoky  range  of  mountains,  in  the  county  of  Nye.  The  principal  mines,  as  yet 
tU'veloped,  are  situated  down  towards  the  eastern  base  of  the  mountain,  near 
^lonitor  valley.  It  was  organized  in  1865  with  laws  similar  to  those  of  Reese  River 
district.  The  facilities  for  building  are  good,  the  prefeiTcd  material  being  stone, 
but  brick  of  a  fine  quality  is  made  in  the  neighborhood.     Fire-wood  exists  in  such 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  421 

abundance  tliut  mills  are  furnislied  with  fuel  ut  the  rate  of  $-1  50  per  cord.  Tim- 
ber suitable  for  purposes  of  buikling  exists  in  the  surroundina^  hills,  and  several 
saw-mills  find  [trolitable  employment  and  a  good  market  for  their  products.  The 
better  quality  of  lumber,  however,  is  brought  from  the  Sierra  Nevada,  near  250 
miles  distant.  A  more  convenient  source  of  supply  would  be  the  White  Pine 
range  of  mountains,  lying  about  75  miles  to  the  east.  There  a  species  of  fir  tree 
i^I'rows  from  which  an  excellent  (piality  of  Itunber  could  be  obtained.  Elsewhere 
throughout  the  State,  with  slight  exceptions,  the  forests  are  of  pinon,  cedar  or  juni- 
]K'r,  mountain  mahogany  and  cottonwood,  with  a  few  other  varieties,  all  of  a 
dwartish  character,  and  although  excellent  for  fuel,  make  very  poor  Imiiber.  It, 
however,  answers  many  purposes,  and  in  the  district  and  neighborhood  are  five 
saw-mills  engaged  in  its  manul'acture.  Water  is  found  in  quantities  sufficient 
to  sujiply  the  demand,  through  the  medium  of  natural  springs,  some  of  which 
furnish  considerable  streams  of  water.  Already  water  has  been  obtained  in  mines 
and  wells,  and  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  deep  mining  will  supply  an  abund- 
ance of  the  element  for  a  large  population  and  an  unlimited  amount  of  steam 
machinery. 

The  geological  formation  is  of  slate,  with  a  stratification  running  north  and 
south  and  dipping  to  the  east  at  a  high  angle,  and  the  veins  follow  the  stratifi- 
cation. A  large  number  of  veins  have  been  discovered  and  located,  the  principal 
of  which  are  the  Transylvania,  Highbridge,  El  Dorado,  and  Achilles. 

In  the  district  is  the  village  of  Belmont,  the  shire  town  of  Nye  county.  It  is 
situated  in  or  about  the  centre  of  the  mineral  belt,  on  a  flat  through  which  flows 
a  stream  of  water.  At  this  point  a  spur  of  mountains  branches  off"  from  the 
Smoky  range  and  trends  to  the  southeast,  dividing  the  valley  into  two  parts — 
that  on  the  north  called  Monitor,  and  that  on  the  south  called  Ralston  valley. 
In  this  spur,  and  east  of  the  town,  are  the  principal  mines  of  the  district.  The 
site  opens  out  southward  into  Ralston  valley,  presenting  a  fine  view  of  the 
country  south,  and  the  range  of  mountains  in  which  are  the  districts  of  Manhat- 
tan, Aj-gentoro  and  others.  Though  this  place  is  scarcely  a  year  old,  it  presents 
the  appearance  of  a  well-established  centre  of  trade,  having  substantial  stone 
and  brick  fire-proof  buildings,  and  many  good  frame  ones.  A  weekly  mail  route 
is  established  from  Austin  to  this  place,  and  is  extended  on  to  Pahranagat. 
Between  Belmont  and  Austin  the  mail  is  carried  in  a  four-horse  stage,  Avhich 
runs  tri-weekly,  and  cames  Wells,  Fargo  &  Company's  express  every  trip.  The 
express,  therefore,  does  the  chief  letter-carrying,  its  superior  convenience  entirely 
eclipsing  the  weekly  mail.  A  weekly  newspaper,  the  "  Silver  Bend  Reporter," 
is  published,  and  is  evidence  of  the  enlightened  state  of  society  peopling  this 
distant  frontier.  Banks,  assay  offices,  schools,  &c.,  are  established,  with  other 
institutions  and  business  that  go  to  make  up  a  flourishing  town. 

Tlie  Comhination  Gold  and  Silver  Mhiimj  Comiytny,  already  spoken  of,  is  a 
New  lork  or<ranization,  owning  mines  and  other  })roperty  in  different  parts  of 
eastern  Nevada.  In  Phila(k'li)hia  district  it  has  a  claim  of  3,000  feet  upon 
the  Transylvania  ledge,  which  is  so  developed  as  to  leave  no  dt)ubt  of  its 
worth.  This  is  the  most  northerly  portion  of  the  vein  yet  developed.  An 
incline  has  been  sunk  on  the  ledge  to  a  depth  of  170  feet,  where  it  shows  a  width 
of  22  feet  inside  of  casings,  with  a  large  body  of  ore.  It  is  estimated  that  the 
vein  will  average  by  the  wet  process  of  working,  $150  per  ton.  This  seems  a 
very  high  estimate  and  needs  the  corroboration  of  thorough  trial.  The  vein  is 
pierced  by  two  tunnels  at  a  depth  of  120  feet,  and  sei)ai-ated  by  a  distance  of  700 
feet,  from  the  termini  of  which  levels  have  been  run  north  and  south,  in  all  about 
800  feet,  thus  to  some  extent  proving  the  ledge  and  ])reparing  it  for  mining. 

The  company  have  in  course  of  construction  a  mill  of  40-stamp  caj)acity.  It 
is  rapidly  approaching  completion,  and  will  soon  b(!  in  operation.  For  the  better 
working  of  the  mine  a  perjiendicular  shaft  is  sunk,  which  will  }tierce  the  ledge 
at  a  depth  of  600  feet.     The  sinking  is  now  in  progress. 


422  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

Bclmcmt  Silver  Mining  Company  is  composed  of  Messrs.  J.  A.  McDonalcI, 
J.  W.  Gashwiler  and  S.  M.  Buck.  The  mining'  property  lies  south  of  the  Com- 
bination Company's  and  joins  it,  being  on  the  same  ledge.  It  was  formerly 
known  as  Buel's  Highbridge,  having  been  owned  and  developed  by  Mr.  D.  E. 
Buel.  This  gentleman,  when  attention  was  first  drawn  to  the  district,  purchased 
the  location,  300  feet,  for  the  sum  of  $9,000.  This  was  in  June,  1866,  and  he 
immediate!}^  commenced  the  erection  of  a  10-stamp  mill,  putting  it  into  operation 
on  the  1st  of  September  following.  The  mill  was  prepared  only  for  wet  crush- 
ing, or  working  ores  without  roasting,  and  was  expected  to  save  onl}^  60  per  cent, 
of  the  silver  contained  in  the  ore.  It  was  very  incomplete,  having  for  some 
months  onlj'  the  machinery  standing,  without  roof  or  enclosing  building ;  yet  in 
about  seven  months  it  turned  out  upwards  of  $100,000  in  bullion.  The  ores 
Avorked  were  chiefly  from  or  near  the  surface.  Since  it  has  gone  into  the  posses- 
sion of  its  present  owners,  extensive  developments  have  been  undertaken  under 
the  direction  of  S.  i\I.  Buck,  civil  and  mining  engineer.  The  results  are  said  to 
be  satisfactory.  At  the  present  time  the  company  is  constinicting  a  20-stamp 
mill  which  they  hope  to  have  in  operation  before  the  close  of  the  year.  The 
same  parties  are  also  owiiers  of  a  claim  of  400  feet,  known  as  the  Wood  &  Buel 
mine,  on  the  Transylvania  No.  1,  a  parallel  vein  to  the  Transylvania  No.  2,  or 
Highbridge,  and  100  feet  from  it.  There  is  some  dift'erence  of  opinion  respect- 
ing these  veins — whether  they  are  really  two  distinct  veins,  or  one  a  break  fi'om 
the  other.  Their  parallel  course  and  great  similarity  of  gangue  and  ore  impress 
many  with  the  belief  that  explorations  will  prove  them  to  be  but  one  lode.  Upon 
the  claim  last  mentioned  some  work  has  been  done,  and  a  depth  of  75  feet 
attained  on  it,  where  it  is  found  to  be  from  six  to  ten  feet  in  width.  The  ore 
taken  out  has  been  reduced  at  the  mill,  and  is  said  to  have  produced  from  $70 
to  $100  per  ton.     A  less  return  is  given  in  the  report  published  by  the  assessor. 

The  McAleer  Company  is  a  company  formed  in  Frederick  City,  Maryland, 
and  has  been  previously  mentioned  as,  the  Continental,  owning  property  in  the 
Cortez  district.  Its  mining  property  was  the  location  of  Moore  and  Martin,  and 
comprises  153  feet  on  the  great  Transylvania  vein,  next  south  of  the  Wood  and 
Buel  location.  Since  it  has  been  the  property  of  the  McAleer  Company  it  has 
been  under  the  management  of  D.  T.  Elmore,  who  has  prosecuted  work  on  the 
mine  to  the  depth  of  140  feet,  at  which  depth  the  vein  is  from  6  to  10  feet  in 
width,  nearly  the  entire  body  being  ore  estimated  to  be  worth  from  $60  to  $130 
per  ton.  Developments  are  still  going  on  in  preparation  for  a  mill  of  20  stamp 
capacity,  now  in  course  of  construction,  and  which  it  is  expected  will  be  in  ope- 
ration this  year.  The  mine,  tliough  less  in  length  of  vein  than  the  others,  is  none 
the  less  valuable  in  proportion,  and  like  the  others  is  well  situated  for  working. 

The  Silver  Bend  Company  owns  the  next  location  south  on  the  vein,  and  is 
locally  known  as  the  Childs  and  Canfield.  The  claim  extends  2,000  feet  along 
the  vein,  and  the  developments  show  it  to  be  similar  in  size  and  quality  of  ore 
to  the  others  pre\nously  mentioned.  An  in(;line  shaft  has  been  sunk  to  the  depth 
of  115  feet,  and  a  level  run  150  feet  along  the  vein,  proving  it  permanent  and 
valuable  throughout.  At  a  point  800  feet  south  of  the  incline  mentioned  another 
was  sunk  to  the  depth  of  105  feet,  and  levels  run  north  and  south,  from  which 
100  t(ms  of  ore  worked  at  the  Belmont  mill  (wet  process)  yielded  $91  per  ton. 

'^I'liesc  mines  are  all  on  one  ledge,  and  ])roduce  good  ores. 

Slost  writers  stop  when  the  mines  of  the  Transylvania  are  described,  not 
thinking  that  others  are  worthy  of  note,  but  an  examination  reveals  the  fact  that 
others  of  a  promising  character  exist. 

The  El  Dorado  lies  about  1,000  feet  west  of  the  Transylvania,  and  parallel 
to  it.  This  vein  was  discovered  in  the  early  settlement  of  the  place.  It  is  now 
owned  by  Leon,  Mullen,  Singleterry,  and  Brown.  An  incline  shaft  has  been 
sunk  upon  it  to  a  depth  of  70  feet,  developing  a  vein  8  to  10  feet  in  width,  from 
which  pay  ore  is  obtained. 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


42:5 


Till'  Iii(l«'jHMi(loiu'e  and  Arizona  lie  north  of  the  El  Dorado,  and  are  supposed 
to  l)e  on  tlu'  same  vein.  Tliey  are  not  much  deveh)ped,  Imt  beiui;-  on  the  EI 
Dorado  vein  ari'  esteemed  vahialde. 

Noith  of  Jk'hnont  one  mile  is  the  Silver  Champion,  whieh  has  produced  some 
good  ore.  It  has  lately  been  })nreluised  by  T.  F.  White  for  an  eastern  company, 
and  work  will  })r(diably  be  eonimeneed  u])on  it  soon. 

Adjoiniui^  this  is  the  Silver  Queen,  upon  which  developments  are  prog-ressing'. 

Northeast  of  Belmont  is  the  Silver  Cord,  Magnolia,  and  other  veins,  and 
sontheast,  near  the  Silver  Bend  Ctmipany's  mine,  is  the  Achilles.  These  have 
been  worked  to  some  extent  and  give  evidence  of  value. 

West  of  Belmont  is  what  is  termed  the  "Spanish  Belt,"  where  numerous 
ledges  lire  found.  There  are  other  veins  and  claims  than  those  mentioned  which 
may  prove  of  value,  and  many  w  liich  doul)tless  deserve  the  name  of  "  wild-cat." 

Official  Retuiixs. — The  oflicial  returns  of  Nye  county  have  been  pnblished 
for  the  quarter  ending  June  30,  1SG7.  The  following  list  contains  the  names  of 
the  mines,  the  amount  worked,  and  the  average  rate  per  ton : 


Name  of  mine. 


Murphy,  (Twin  river) 

Trausylvunia,  (Silver  Bend  Company)... 
Transylvania  K<>.  1,  (Hclmont  Company). 
Transylvania  No.  3,  (Belmont  Company) . 

Liberh',  (San  Antonio) 

Teutoiii.i,  (Milk  Springs) 

W.-stiielil,  (Reveille) 

J.  Ritter,  (Reveille) 

Adriatie,  (Reveille) 

Cornuco|)i;i,  (Reveille) 

Wild  Irishman,  (I'nion) 

Canada,  (North  Twin  river) 


Tons. 


805 
100 
676 
lis 
100 
1 


Lbs. 


1,000 

632 

1,110 

1,330 


46 

1,679 
1, 320 

940 
1,620 

296 
1,748 


Average  per 
ton. 


.$92  94 
66  20 
39  08 
54  93 

208  00 
56  23 

408  00 

101  73 

102  32 
611  37 
262  89 
367  76 


During  the  quarter  a  considerable  amount  of  ore  from  Nye  county  was  reduced 
at  the  mills  of  Austin,  and  not  mentioned  in  the  above  returns.  The  mills 
Avorking  were  the  Murphy,  at  Twin  river,  20  stamps;  the  Belmont,  at  Belmont, 
10  stamps;  the  Rigby,  at  San  Antonio,  four  stamps;  and  the  Rutland,  at  Rev- 
eille, live  stamps.     The  last  reduced  very  little  ore. 

NoRTnuiiBERLAXD  DISTRICT. — Sixty  miles  southeast  of  Austin  is  the  dis- 
trict of  Northumberland,  which  from  recent  developments  shows  evidences  of 
value,  and  is  attracting  some  attention.  It  lies  on  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Smoky 
range,  and  on  both  sides  of  the  pass  through  which  goes  the  road  leading  from 
Austin  to  Belmont.  The  district  was  organized  in  June,  186G,  and  a  number 
of  ledges  located,  few  of  Mliich  were  tested.  Those  now  most  developed  are 
the  Northumberland  and  Lady  Cnmmings.  From  these  20  or  more  tons  of  ore 
have  been  taken  and  reduced  at  the  mills  of  Austin,  and  from  $70  to  $150  per 
ton  have  been  obtained.     Ore  of  this  quality  is  reported  to  be  abundant. 

Danville  District  lies  on  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Monitor  range,  being 
the  next  east  of  the  Smoky  range.  Between  the  two  lies  Monitor  valley,  similar 
in  its  api)earance  and  general  characteristics  to  the  Smoky  valley  and  others 
in  the  eastern  part  of  the  State.  The  district  lies  directly  east  of  Northumber- 
land, and  80  miles  distant  from  Au.stin.  It  was  organized  in  the  snmmer  of 
1S66,  and  many  ledges  located.  Of  these  the  Vanderbilt  and  Silveropolis  have 
furnished  ores  which,  assaying  largely,  have  given  some  notoriety  to  the  district. 
From  first-class  ores  of  the  Vanderbilt  assays  have  been  obtained  ranging  from 
SSOO  to  81,700  per  ton,  and  from  the  Silveropolis  as  high  as  $300  and  8400  per 
ton.     The  assayer  remarks  that  the  ores  are  unusually  free  from  base  metals.* 

*  It  must  be  ob.served  that  these  as.says  afford  no  reliable  indication  of  the  value  of  a  vein. 
Generally,  the  ores  are  selected.  There  is  ore  in  every  district  and  almost  every  mine  from 
which  high  assays  can  be  obtained;  'but  $1,000  or  $10,000  ore  may  exist  in  a  worthless 
mine. — J.  R.  B. 


424  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

The  veins  at  the  outcrop  are  from  20  mches  to  12  feet  in  width.  The  develop- 
ments are  slight,  and  none  appear  to  be  in  progress  at  the  present  time.  The 
district  is  represented  to  l»e  well  supplied  with  wood  and  water. 

Hercules'  Gate  District  is  situated  east  of  and  about  150  miles  distant 
from  Austin,  in  the  Egnn  range  of  mountains.  It  receives  its  name  from  a  deep 
chasm  cutting  the  moimtain  in  two,  and  through  wliich  Major  Simpson  passed 
with  his  exploring  expedition  in  1859.  Silver-bearing  veins  of  good  character 
are  reported  as  existing,  but  the  mineral  resom'ces  of  the  district  are  little  known. 
Bordering  on  the  great  Steptoe  valley,  with  numerous  streams  furnishing  power 
for  mills  and  manufacturing  and  water  for  in-igation,  it  presents  features  of  attrac- 1 
tion  and  value  aside  from  its  mines.  Copper  ore  is  foimd  in  small  iiTCgular  veins 
running  through  the  lime-rock  or  marble  in  some  portions  of  the  district. 

Hot  Creek. — The  district  of  Hot  Creek  is  situated  about  100  miles  south- 
east from  Austin,  in  Nye  county.  It  was  organized  in  Febraiary,  1866,  and  is  of 
the  usual  dimensions,  20  miles  square.  It  receives  its  name  from  a  great  natural 
curiosity,  being  a  stream  of  hot  water  of  several  hundred  inches  in  measurement, 
and  running  for  several  miles  in  a  deep  chasm  through  the  mountains.  The 
stream  rises  from  the  ground  in  a  large  boiling  spring  at  the  western  base  of  the 
Hot  Creek  range  of  mountains,  and  runs  eastward  thi-ough  a  naiTow  pass  and 
sinks  in  a  tule  marsh  in  the  valley  east  of  the  mountain.  For  several  hundred 
yards  the  water  retains  a  high  degree  of  heat,  but  being  supplied  by  numerous 
cold  springs  its  temperature  is  reduced.  The  water  is  piire,  and  is  used  for  culi- 
nary purposes.  Tlie  heat  furnished  by  nature  is  highly  appreciated  by  those 
dwelling  on  its  banks.  There  is  in  the  vaJleys  flanking  the  mountains  a  con- 
siderable amount  of  agricultural  land,  and  experiments  in  cultivation  have  been 
made  with  some  success.  The  chasm,  which  in  places  is  but  a  few  rods  wide, 
offers  facilities  for  a  road  through  the  mountain.  A  town  has  been  laid  out  in 
the  district,  and  is  occupied  l)y  about  100  people.  The  geological  fonuation  is 
of  limestone,  slate,  and  porphyry,  all  containing  silver-bearing  quartz.  The 
limestone  appears  chiefly  on  the  surface.  The  mountain  rises  about  1,500  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  valleys,  and  being  very  precipitous,  otl'ers  good  opportuni- 
ties for  opening  mines  by  tunnelling.  The  mining  claims  of  chief  notoriety 
located  in  the  district  are  the  Indian  Jim,  1,500  leet ;  Memmac,  1,500  ftet ;  Old 
Dominion,  1,400  feet ;  Gazelle,  1,200  feet ;  and  the  Old  Joe,  Keystone,  Hot 
Creek,  and  Silver  Glance. 

Old  Dominion  Company. — Upon  the  Indian  Jim  and  Memmac  some  devel- 
o})ments  have  been  made.  These  and  the  Old  Dominion  are  the  property  of 
the  Old  Dominion  Company,  formed  under  the  laws  of  Peiinsylvania.  The 
company  is  jjrosecuting  work  on  their  mines,  and  constructing  a  mill  of  20  stamp 
cai)acity.  Upon  the  Merrimac  a  shaft  has  been  sunk  to  a  depth  of  40  feet,  and 
from  this  a  drift  is  run  which,  on  the  1st  of  August,  had  penetrated  the  vein  a 
distance  of  six  feet,  showing  a  body  of  ore  estimated  to  be  wortli  from  $100  to 
SoOO  per  ton.  From  cuts  through  the  vein  at  the  surface,  it  is  found  to  be  40 
feet  in  thickness.*  It  runsnoith  and  south,  crossing  the  HotCreek  canon;  that  part 
north  of  the  canon  being  the  Indian  Jim  location,  and  that  south  the  Menimac. 
Tlie  shaft  ju-oves  that  the  limestone,  covering  the  surface  has  only  a  depth  of  30 
feet,  and  is  undeilaid  by  slate  and  jiorphyry. 

The  Consolahdion  L'ompany  is  a  iS'ew  York  organization,  and  owns  veins 
throughout  various  i)arts  of  easteni  Nevada,  but  the  scenes  of  its  principal  oper- 
ations are  in  Hot  Creek  district.  Here  it  owns  a  number  of  veins  of  some  prom- 
ise, though  tliey  have  not  been  renmnerative.  Tlie  company  has  built  a  10-stamp 
mill,  called  the  Manchester.  Each  stamp  is  but  250  pounds  weight.  The  mill 
has  not  been  run  successfully  and  is  now  idle.     The  chief  mine  of  the  company 

*It  should  be  understood  that  veins  of  this  widthdonotcontain  pay  ore  all  the  ^vay  through. 
Generally,  the  ore  runs  in  streaks  or  is  found  in  pockets.  The  thickness  of  a  vein,  therefore, 
cannot  of  itself  be  regarded  as  infaliable  evidence  of  value. — J.  R.  B. 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  425 

is  tlu'  Kovsti»no.  U])on  the  vein  a  shaft  was  sunk  33  feet  in  depth,  when,  after 
passinij  a  b(»'.ly  i)f  jiay  ore,  the  walls  eame  tou^etlier  and  the  ledge  was  h)st.  Ihit 
slig-ht  exeavalit>ns  have  been  made  to  recover  it,  and  all  work  of  the  company 
has  ceased  for  the  present.  There  are  several  other  veins  in  the  district  belong- 
\uiX  to  the  s;inie  conn)any,  upon  which  work  has  been  done,  but  while  the  pros- 
])ects  were  encourau'ing,  there  were  no  prolitable  results. 

The  district  has  advantao'es  of  wood,  which  can  be  procured  at  $5  per  cord; 
fine  water,  a  pleasant  climate,  and  is  surrounded  by  good  agricultural  land. 
'I'hese,  with  the  silver-bearing  veins,  will  })robably,  at  no  distant  day,  bring  it 
into  notice. 

Reveillk  District. — During  the  sunnner  of  1866  ex})h)rations  through  the 
southeastern  part  of  the  State  were  caiTicd  on  extensively,  and  many  discoveries  of 
i  m  portance  were  made.  This  region  of  country  had  previously  been  regarded  as  an 
iidiospitable  desert,  and  was  entered  with  great  caution.  The  impression  of  its  ster- 
ility was  found  to  be  erroneous,  and  it  is  now  ascertained  that  north  of  the  38th  paral- 
lel, that  part  of  Nevada,  at  least,  contains  but  little  country  that  can  with  propriety 
be  called  a  desert.  In  August,  1866,  a  party  composed  of  M.  D.  Faiichild,  A. 
Monroe,  and  W.  O.  Arnold,  discovered  an  extraordinary  outcrop  of  silver-bear- 
ing veins  upon  the  eastern  slope  of  a  range  next  east  of  the  Hot  Creek  moun- 
tains, and  about  135  miles  southeast  of  Austin.  They  immediately  proceeded 
to  organize  a  mining  district  to  which  they  gave  the  name  of  Reveille,  in  com- 
pliment to  the  Reveille  newspaper,  Austin.  They  adopted  the  mining  law 
of  the  State,  and  under  it  claims  were  recorded  and  held.  The  most  promising 
claims  located  are  the  Crescent,  August,  MediteiTanean,  Atlantic,  National, 
Antartic,  Fishennan,  and  Adriatic.  Many  others  are  located.  The  last  two 
named  are  situated  on  the  western  slope  of  the  mountain,  while  the  others  are 
on  the  eastern  side.  The  rock  formation  is  chiefly  limestone,  and  the  metal- 
beaiing  quartz  appears  in  veins  or  vast  beds  in  the  crust  and  extending 
above  the  surface.  These  appear  of  various  widths  from  20  to  upwards  of  lOO 
feet.  The  excavations  npon  them  have  not  determined  their  depth,  nor  whether 
they  are  true  fissure  veins  or  detached  beds.  Being  in  limestone,  and  appearing 
in  such  masses  at  the  surface,  has  given  rise  to  questions  as  to  their  true  charac- 
ter. From  the  August,  Crescent,  Fisherman,  Adriatic,  and  others,  some  ore  has 
been  taken  and  reduced  at  the  mills  at  Austin,  producing  $150  and  upwards  to 
the  ton.  The  outcropping  masses  of  this  district  are  distinguished  for  the  amount 
of  silver  they  contain.  There  is  but  little  water  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  mines, 
but  to  the  west,  from  seven  to  ten  miles,  upon  the  opposite  side  of  the  valley 
separating  the  Reveille  from  the  Hot  Creek  range,  are  streams  affording  water 
for  reduction  mills  should  deep  mining  fail  to  obtain  water  for  the  purpose  close 
at  hand.  Upon  one  of  these  streams  the  Rutland  mill  of  live  stamps  has  been 
erected,  but  as  it  was  prei)ared  oid}'  for  wet  crushing,  or  from  want  of  efficient 
manageTnent  and  metallurgical  skill,  it  has  not  been  successful. 

Empire  District. — Joining  Hot  Creek  district  on  the  south,  and  about 
eight  miles  distant  from  that  singular  stream,  is  Empire  district.  This  was  organ- 
ized in  1866,  shortly  after  that  of  Hot  Creek.  It  is  represented  as  containing 
valuable  ledges.  Ore  from  them  reduced  at  Austin  has  yielded  as  high  as  $400 
per  ton.  Specimens  of  great  richness  are  often  exhibited,  showing  chloride, 
sulphuret,  and  native  silver.  The  true  c4iaracter  and  real  w^orth  of  the  district 
has  not  been  demonstrated. 

Milk  Springs  District  is  in  the  Hot  Creek  range  of  nK>imtains,  and  sotith 
of  Empire.  It  receives  its  name  from  the  peculiar  ajjpearance  of  the  water 
arising  from  a  large  spring,  which,  although  to  the  taste  jjure,  is  of  a  milky 
color.  Numerous  veins  have  l)een  located,  and  some  good  ore  has  been  obtained. 
But  little  work  lias  been  done  in  the  district,  and  its  true  character  cannot  bo 
stated.     Some  of  the  veins  are  regarded  as  of  value  by  jtersons  (pialilied  to  judge. 

MoREY  District. — The  mineral  veins  of  Morey  district  were  noticed  in  1865,  by 


426  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AXD    TERRITORIES 

T.  J.  Barnes,  who  penetrated  the  southeastern  country.  This  gentleman  made 
extensive  explorations,  and  with  others  organized  several  districts.  Accounts  of 
these  were  reported  at  the  time  in  the  Reese  River  Reveille,  but  they  led  to  no 
general  occupation  of  the.country,  nor  to  the  development  of  any  mines.  The  year 
following  Morey  district  was  reorganized,  and  labor  upon  some  of  the  veins  is  now 
progressing  with  fair  prospects.  It  is  situated  about  100  miles  east  and  a  little 
south  of  Austin,  on  a  spur  of  mountain  running  east  fi'om  the  Hot  Creek  range. 
It  is  as  yet  but  little  known. 

Pahrakagat  Distict  lies  in  the  southeastern  part  of  Xevada,  near  the  38th 
parallel  of  latitude,  and  about  115°  west  from  Greenwich.  Its  distance  from 
Austin  is  estimated  at  180  miles.  The  mines  were  first  discovered  in  March, 
1865,  by  T.  C.  W.  Sayles,  John  H.  Ely,  David  Sanderson,  Samuel  S.  Strut, 
William  McClusky,  and  Ira  Hatch,  Indian  intei-preter.  These  parties  were  from 
Utah,  and  were  guided  to  the  locality  by  an  Indian.  A  district  w^as  fonued 
and  many  ledges  located.*  The  name  given  it  was  the  name  borne  by  the 
Indians  living  in  an  extensive  valley  lying  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  bearing 
the  mineral ;  the  word  "pah"  meaning  water,  and  "ranagat"  any  vegetable,  as 
melon,  squash,  or  pumpkin,  growing  on  vines.  It  is  indicative  of  the  agricul- 
tural value  of  the  section.  Tlie  mountain  bearing  the  mineral  -was  named  Mount 
Irish,  in  honor  of  Mr.  Irish,  the  United  States  Indian  agent  for  the  Temtoiy  of 
Utah.  The  place  where  the  discoverers  encamped,  being  at  a  spring  of  water 
in  the  vallej',  was  called  by  the  Indians  Hiko,  meaning  white  man,  and  the 
village  now  at  that  place,  and  county  seat  of  Lincoln  county,  bears  that  name, 
l^^he  chief  phj^sical  features  of  the  district  are,  Mount  Irish,  a  lofty  peak  attaining 

""  Messrs.  Adelberg  and  Raymond,  metallurgists  and  mining  engineers,  of  New  York,  in 
a  report  ou  the  character  of  certain  silver  ores  from  the  Pahraoagat  district,  say :  The  silver 
ores  from  Pahrauagat  district,  the  value  of  which,  as  determined  by  22  assays  made  for 
1\  Prentice,  esq.,  of  New  York,  will  be  found  in  our  certificates,  present,  with  but  one  excep- 
tion, a  single  typical  class  of  argentiferous  rock,  viz:  polybasite,  of  great  richness.  This 
mineral  contains  a  somewhat  variable  proportion  of  silver,  although  it  has  a  distinct  habitus 
and  chemical  character.  It  is  a  sulphuret  of  arsenic  (or  antimony)  and  silver,  with  the  for- 
mula it  Ag  S  +  As  S^ ;  but  a  portion  of  the  silver  may  be  represented  by  copper,  and  the 
arsenic  by  antimony,  so  that  the  general  formula  may  be  given  thus :  9  (Cu  S.  Ag  S)  -\-  (S 
C  S'  As  B"\ )  The  percentage  of  silver,  according  to  careful  analyses  made  in  Europe,  varies 
from  64  to  72  per  cent.,  and  even  more. 

Pahranagat  district,  aside  from  its  well-known  veins  of  argentiferous  galena,  one  of  which 
is  represented  in  the  specimens  submitted  to  us,  seems  to  carry  in  its  silver  lodus  principally 
polybasite.  This  mineral  must  be  looked  upon,  therefore,  as  the  characteristic  ore  of  the 
district,  and  the  principal  basis  of  that  silver  production,  which  is  rapidly  springing  up  iu 
that  rich  locality.  This  mineralogical  feature  distinguishes  Pahranagat  from  other  centres 
of  silver  production,  such  as  the  Washoe  and  Reese  River  districts  :  and  will  determine  for 
it  a  peculiar  metallurgical  process  for  the  treatment  of  its  ores.  We  cannot  undertake,  with- 
out a  more  extended  examination,  to  describe  in  detail  such  a  process ;  and  content  ourselves 
on  this  occasion  with  the  following  brief  opinion  : 

1.  In  the  case  of  ores  of  such  quality  as  the  samples  marked  Hampden,  Saturn,  Mars, 
Williams,  Moscow,  Comanche,  Vesuvuis,  Leonidas,  London,  Pittsburg,  Cliff,  Hamburg, 
Judson,  Steuben,  Inca,  and  Mazeppa,  we  do  not  see  any  objection  to  the  use  of  the  -well- 
known  process  of  chloritic  roasting  and  subsequent  amalgamation,  as  carried  ou  in  and  around 
Austin;  altliough  it  is  obvious,  that  only  a  caieful  roasting  of  long  duration  will  convert 
these  ores  into  a  form  of  chlorides  for  amalganiatiou. 

2.  On  tiie  other  hand,  such  exceedingly  rich  ores  as  those  marked  Braganza,  Exenica, 
Gibraltar,  and  Manchester,  would  best  be  beneticiated  by  the  smelting  process,  the  choice  of 
which  is  indicated  by  their  very  character,  and  tlie  use  of  which  is  especially  feasible  in  Pah- 
rauagat, inasmuch  as  the  galena  veins  of  that  district  furnish  the  very  material  upon  which 
that  process  is  founded.  Another  most  favorable  circumstance  is  the  existence  of  coal  beds 
in  the  neighborhood.  Although  these  coal  beds,  like  others  of  the  western  coast,  belong,  no 
doubt,  to  the  tertiary  formation,  they  will  still  be  of  great  value  to  the  mining  industry  of  the 
country,  especially  as  they  occur  within  four  miles  of  the  lode. 

'3.  In  conclusion  wc  desire  to  say,  that  most  of  the  specimens  submitted  to  us  are  obviously 
from  near  the  surface;  and,  judging  from  the  analogy  between  the  mineralogical  character- 
istics of  the  poorer  and  the  richer  ores,  we  regard  it  as  most  probable  that  future  develop- 
ments in  depth  will  prove  all  these  lodes  to  carry  rich  polybasite,  which  could  unquestionably 
be  more  thoroughly  and  easily  treated  by  smelting  than  by  amalgamation. 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  427 

an  olovatittn  tiC  1 1,000  tci't  above  the  soa,  with  other  hills  and  ])eaks  constitnting- 
a  range  ol"  mountains;  the  Tahranagat  valley,  of  some  30  miles  in  length  and 
about  1:2  in  width,  a  portion  of  Avhicli  is  agricultural  land;  and  its  large  and 
singular  springs.  The  mountain,  as  described  by  Mr.  R.  II.  Stretch,  State  min- 
eralogist of  Nevada,  '•  is  a  mass  of  white  porphyritic  rock,  the  flanks  consisting' 
of  a  blackish  limestone  (abounding  in  fragments  of  crinoids  and  corals)  overlying 
slates  and  ca})ped  witli  a  heavy  body  of  quartzite.  On  Silver  hill  and  Sanderson 
mountain,  the  outcroppings  of  the  lodes  are  in  limestone.  On  the  western  slope 
of  the  range,  crystalline  eruptive  rocks  are  abundant."*  The  trend  of  the  moun- 
tain range  is  north  and  south,  and  the  strike  of  the  veins  is  g'enerally  northeast 
and  southwest,  with  a  slight  dip  to  the  southeast,  or  stand  nearly  vertical.  There 
have  been  upwards  of  1,000  locations  made,  the  principal  of  which  are  the  Illi- 
nois, List,  Crescent,  Bay  State,  New  Hampshire,  Eclipse,  Utah,  Ulric  Dahlgren, 
and  Vict(U'ia.  Many  others  are  worthy  of  mention,  but  their  developments  are 
slit^lit,  and  the  catalogue  would  be  useless. 

The  valley  of  Pahranagat  lies  at  an  elevation  estimated  at  from  G.OOO  to  7,000 
feet  above  the  sea,  but,  for  so  great  an  altitude  the  climate  is  comparatively  warm 
and  pleasant.  This  is  accounted  for  by  its  being  in  a  measure  open  to  the  valley 
of  the  Colorado  and  the  warm  region  of  the  south.  Very  slight  snow-storms  are 
experienced  in  winter,  and  frosts  are  not  severe.  S})riugs  and  streams  atlbrd 
water  for  irrigating  a  large  area,  which,  with  the  good  soil  and  mild  climate,  will 
enable  it  to  furnish  such  products  of  the  farm,  garden,  and  field  as  a  mining 
population  may  refjuire.  The  springs,  of  which  there  are  three,  Hiko,  Logan, 
and  Ash,  are  natural  ctuiosities,  from  the  amounts  of  water  they  pour  forth, 
being  from  1,000  to  2,000  inches,  and  the  peculiarity  of  their  high  temperature, 
which  is  from  65°  to  75°  Fahrenheit.  In  the  neighborhood  of  each  of  these  are 
fanning  settlements,  and  at  Hiko  and  Logan  are  small  villages.  The  total 
number  of  inhabitants  in  the  district  is  now  about  300.  There  are  several  families 
residing  in  the  valley,  but  no  schools  are  yet  established.  This  section  having 
been  first  occupied  by  people  from  Utah  and  the  east,  where  United  States  legal- 
tender  notes  is  the  currency,  this  currency  is  adopted  here,  and  in  that  differs 
from  other  portions  of  the  State.  Early  in  the  present  year  a  mill  of  five-stamp 
capacity  was  erected  by  W.  II.  Ilaymond,  and  put  in  operation  ;  but  either  from 
inexperience  or  bad  management  it  proved  a  failure,  and  is  not  operating  now. 
Another  mill  of  five  stamps,  to  work  the  ores  of  the  List  lode,  lias  been  con- 
structed and  is  more  successful,  although  very  incomplete,     A  10-stamp  mill  is 

*  The  Minin<T  and  Scientific  Press,  of  San  Francisco,  California,  of  December,  1865,  makes 
the  following  allusion  to  the  Pahranagat  mines : 

We  have  had  placed  upon  our  table  some  very  fine  specimens  of  silver  ore  from  an  entirely 
new  mining  di.strict,  lately  discovered  about  lUU  miles  easterly  of  ISIono  lake,  and  at  least  75 
miles  distant  from  any  already  existing  district.  It  has  been  named  the  Pahranagat  Lake 
district,  the  Indian  name  of  the  lake  and  valley  near  which  the  mines  are  located.  The 
discovery  was  made  in  March  last,  by  Messrs.  J.  Ely,  W.  McClosky,  S.  S.  Shutt,  and  three 
others.  The  location,  as  ascertained  by  running  out  a  line  from  a  known  point,  is  in  lati- 
tude 37^  34'  north,  and  115°  5i9'  west,  which  places  it  in  the  southeast  corner  of  the  State  of 
Nevada. 

The  ore  from  this  newly  discovered  region  is  mainly  silver-bearing,  and  judging  from 
samples  of  the  croppings  before  us,  the  mines  nuist  prove  rich  in  depth. 

Assays  have  been  made  by  Mr.  G.  Kiistol  from  five  difl"erent  samples  of  ore,  taken  from  as 
many  ditlVrent  lodes,  three  of  which  present  marked  peculiarities,  and  duplicates  of  all  ot 
which  arc  before  us.     We  append  the  assays,  with  a  description  of  each  sample:  | 

No.  1.  Principally  carbonate  of  lead  and  antimony,  yielded  at  the  rate  of  S*:!!)?  10,  in  silver, 
to  the  ton  of  ore. 

No.  2.  Carbonate  of  lead,  copper,  and  antimony,  $282  25  in  silver. 

No.  3.  Carbonate  of  lead  and  copper,  with  argentiferous  gray  copper  ore  and  copper  silver 
glance,  $1,036  75  in  silver. 

No.  4.  A  specimen  presenting  same  characteristics  as  No.  3  yielded  at  the  rate  of  $263  '.>0 
to  the  ton. 

No.  5.  Another  specimen  similar  to  No.  3  yielded  at  the  rate  of  $337  30  to  the  ton.  The 
two  last  each  presented  traces  of  gold. 


428  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

now  in  coni\se  of  construction  upon  the  plan  of  the  best  mills  at  Austin.  Its 
architect  ami  builder  is  Benjamin  Evans,  whose  exj^erience  gives  hopes  of  suc- 
cess. Several  attempts  have  been  made  to  smelt  the  ores,  some  of  which  bear 
considerable  (piantities  of  galena,  but  so  far  they  have  proved  failures.  It  is  proba- 
ble these  failures  are  the  consequence  of  want  of  knowledge  of  the  composition  and 
inexperience  in  the  reduction  of  the  ores.  They  have  retarded  the  development  of 
the  disti-ict,  and  depleted  the  pockets  of  the  miners. 

A  remarkaljle  mountain  of  salt  exists  about  70  miles  south  of  the  mines.*  It 
is  reported  to  be  about  five  miles  in  length  and  600  feet  in  height.  The  body 
of  salt  is  of  unknown  depth.  It  is  chemically  pure  and  crystalline,  and  does 
not  deliquesce  on  exposure  to  the  atmosphere.  Like  rock,  it  requires  blasting 
from  the  mine,  whence  it  is  taken  in  large  blocks  as  transparent  as  glass.  This 
would  afford  an  abundant  supply  to  the  world  could  it  be  cheaply  mined  and 
transported,  but  it  now  stands  in  the  wilderness,  an  object  for  the  admiration  of 
the  cm'ious,  and  the  inspection  of  the  scientific.  The  salt  to  be  used  in  bene- 
ciating  the  ores,  or  for  domestic  purposes,  is  more  easily  obtained  fi-om  the 
fields  in  White  Pine  valley,  where  it  is  gathered  ready  for  the  talile  or  the  mill. 
This  salt  field  is  about  60  miles  north  of  the  mines  on  Moimt  Irish,  and  from 
it  salt  can  be  delivered  at  the  mills  at  Pahranagat  at  a  cost  of  S40  in  coin  per 
ton.  The  district  receives  its  machinery  and  most  of  its  supplies  ft'om  San 
Francisco.  The  dift'erent  routes  from  that  city  are  by  sea  around  Cape  St. 
Lucas  and  up  the  Gulf  of  California,  thence  in  small  steamers  np  the  Colorado 
river  about  600  miles  to  Calhnlle,t  thence  by  land  about  175  miles;  or  by 
sea  to  San  Pedro,  thence  by  land  via  Los  Angeles  475  miles  ;  or  by  Sacra- 
mento, the  Central  Pacific  railroad,  and  Austin.  The  total  distance  by  the 
latter  route  is  650  miles,  and  freight  is  taken  through  at  the  rate  of  $200  in  coin 
per  ton.     The  preference  is  now  given  to  the  land  route  via  the  railroad. 

T/ie  Illinois  Mine. — The  Illinois  lode  is  situated  high  up  on  the  eastern 

*  Dr.  O.  H.  Conger,  assayer  and  metallurgist,  says  in  a  report  on  the  resources  of  this  dis- 
trict : 

"  Timber  is  very  abundant  in  the  mountains  of  this  region,  particularly  in  those  in  which  the 
mines  are  situated.  The  water-power  is  also  almost  unlimited  along  the  valley  streams. 
Coupled  with  these  great  natural  advantages,  which  are  indispensable,  are  immense  deposits 
of  salt  and  the  silicate  of  alumina,  and  the  latter  is  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  mines. 
The  outcroppings  of  it  over  a  very  large  extent  of  country,  which  are  apparent,  prove  it  abso- 
lutely inexhaustible.  Its  capability  of  withstanding  any  degree  of  heat,  to  the  state  of  incan- 
descence, is  most  remarkable.  It  possesses  the  pioperty  also  of  hardening  by  heating,  so 
that  in  a  very  short  period  it  becomes  almost  adamantine.  Another  very  desir.ible  property, 
as  a  furnace  material,  is  in  its  scarcely  perceptible  expansion  and  contraction  under  the  most 
intense  degree  of  heat  or  cold.  Its  constituents  appear  to  be,  from  a  hasty  test  made,  silica, 
alumina,  magnesia,  and  asbestus,  the  two  first  minerals  greatly  predominating,  and  some 
strata  indicating  silica  and  alumina  only.  In  appearance  it  resembles  chalk,  and  is  as  easily 
carved  into  any  desirable  shape.     The  strata  vary  in  thickness  from  four  inches  to  six  feet. 

"  These  varying  thicknesses  enable  blocks  of  it  to  be  obtained  of  any  desired  size,  so  that 
the  floors  or  hearths  of  reverbaratory  and  cupelling  furnaces,  as  also  pieces  entire  for  the 
jirches  can  be  obtained  whole.  This  will  greatly  lessen  the  expense  in  the  construction  of 
the  furnaces  in  this  district,  which  are  required  for  the  proper  working  of  the  ores,  and  also 
they  can  bo  much  more  strongly  and  perfectly  built  than  with  the  usual  fire  brick.  Already 
it  is  being  carried  to  difiereut  parts  of  the  country  for  refractory  purposes.  Mountains  of 
limpid  salt  Ijoldly  project  through  the  floor  of  the  valley,  and  in  many  places  from  100  to 200 
feet  in  height  and  thickness,  so  that  blocks  of  a  ton  in  weight  or  more  are  easily  obtained. 
One  remarkable  feature  about  it  is,  that  it  is  perfectly  pure,  containing  not  a  trace  of  any- 
thing but  the  two  elements  chlorine  and  sodium.  I  believe  there  is  but  one  other  place  on 
the  globe  where  it  exists  in  such  a  state  of  pimty  in  workable  quantities,  and  that  is  Cracow, 
Poland.  This  is  but  another  evidence  of  the  state  of  purity  in  which  the  Ibrce  of  nature  has 
left  her  mineral  deposits  in  this  interesting  portion  of  the  continent.  Native  silver  is  common 
in  many  of  tlie  lodes  of  this  district  on  the  outcropping  ore. 

"  Copper  ore.  of  the  sub-oxide  and  gray  varielies,  80  per  cent,  metal,  and  also  iron  ore  of 
equ.'rl  richness,  are  abundant." 

t  Callville  has  been  reached  with  great  difficulty  by  one  small  steamer ;  but  the  naviga- 
tion of  the  Colorado  to  that  point  can  scarcely  be  considered  practicable  for  commercial  pur- 
poses, in  its  present  condition. — J.  R.  B. 


WEST  OF  THE  BOCKY  MOUNTAINS.  429 

blopo  of  tlio  iDoniitain,  and  is  cut  tlirouiifli  by  a  deep  canon,  g'ivinj^  an  opportu- 
nity to  examine  the  vein,  and  to  open  it  hy  tunnels  at  a  great  depth.  It  crops 
out  boUlly,  showing  an  apparent  width  of  from  lo  to  20  feet.  The  vein  has  been 
opened  at  several  places,  and  found  to  be  valuable.  The  Illinois,  Indiana,  Web- 
ster, and  other  veins  of  good  repute,  are  the  property  of  W.  11.  Raymond  &  Co., 
of  New  York. 

The  Indiana,  on  Peters's  mountain,  has  been  tapped  by  a  tunnel  of  I'^-O  feet, 
at  a  depth  of  120  feet  below  the  croppings,  showing  a  pay  streak  of  6  feet  in  a 
vein  of  10  feet  between  the  w^alls. 

The  Webster,  on  Ivaymond  mountain,  has  been  struck  by  a  vertical  shaft  100 
feet  below  the  croppings,  with  a  pay  streak  of  about  10  feet. 

The  Ahuneda  Conq)anii. — This  is  a  New  York  organization,  and  owns  the  List 
and  other  uiines.  The  List  is  a  location  of  400  feet  in  length  upon  a  vein  which 
extends  throitgh  several  similar  locations.  In  the  claim  of  the  Alameda  Com- 
pany it  is  most  developed,  and  shows  a  width  of  from  5  to  10  feet,  bearing  two 
strata  of  ore,  respectively  6  and  18  inches  in  width.  Several  tons  of  this  ore 
have  been  taken  to  Austin  for  reduction,  and  produced  at  the  rate  of  $100  per 
ton,  and  a  number  of  tons  worked  at  the  Crescent  mill,  near  the  vein,  yielded 
$80  per  ton.  The  developments  consist  in  an  incline  23  feet,  and  a  shaft  50 
feet  in  depth,  from  the  bottcmi  of  which  a  tunnel  has  been  run,  but  it  has  not  as 
yet  penetrated  the  vein.  Wm.  Fleming  is  the  stiperintendent.  The  wages  paid 
for  Arst-class  miners  in  this  district  are  $6  per  day  in  currency.  Mr.  Islin,  Cap- 
tain Dahlgren,  and  others,  are  about  to  conmience  operations  on  mines  of  which 
they  are  owners  or  agents.  The  district  bids  fair,  with  its  mineral-bearing  ledges 
and  agricultural  resources,  to  become  one  of  importance.  It  is  connected  with 
Austin  by  a  weekly  mail,  and  the  road  between  the  two  places  is  naturally  good, 
and  has  been  well  improved,  so  it  is  easily,  safely,  and  pleasantly  passed  by 
heavy  freight  wagons  and  travellers.  It  lies  on  a  practicable  route  for  a  railroad 
from  the  Central  Pacific,  at  several  points  on  the  Humboldt  river,  to  the  Colo- 
rado at  the  head  of  navigation,  or  to  the  crossing  of  the  Atlantic  and  I^icific  rail- 
road, should  such  a  road  be  constructed. 

Colorado  Distkict. — A  recent  act  of  Congress  annexed  a  portion  of  Arizona 
to  Nevada,  and  in  the  section  transferred  is  Colorado  district,  or  the  mining  region 
of  El  Dorado  caiion.  This  is  on  the  banks  of  the  Colorado  river,  and  as  yet 
Las  had  but  little  intercourse  with  the  original  Nevada.  It  may  not  be  regarded 
as  within  the  limits  of  this  report  to  give  a  description  of  this  district,  but  as  a 
step-child  of  Nevada,  it  is  proper  to  recognize  its  existence.  It  was  organized 
in  1861,  and  a  large  number  of  claims  located  bearing  gold,  silver,  and  copper. 

Northern  Mines. — In  July  of  the  present  year,  a  party  composed  of  Messrs. 
McCan,  Beard,  Heath,  and  others  left  Austin  on  an  exploring  tour  to  the  ranges 
of  mountains  north  of  the  Humboldt  river.  There  had  l)een  rumors  of  discoveries 
of  gold-bearing  veins  and  placers  in  those  ranges,  and  also  in  the  Goose  Creek 
mountains,  dividing  the  waters  of  the  Humboldt  and  Owyhee  from  Salt  Lake. 
This  part  of  the  country  was  infested  with  hostile  Indians,  and  it  was  regarded  as 
dangerous  to  penetrate  it.  For  that  reason  it  had  remained  unexplored,  yet  its 
very  dangers  were  inviting  to  the  ventur(>some  prospector,  whose  imagination 
gave  the  w  ild  country  wealth  in  proportion  to  the  hardships  and  dangers  attend- 
ing its  o('cu})ati(m.  This  party  of  explorers,  consisting  of  eight  men,  j)assed  the 
Hmnboldr  riv(n-,  and  going  north  on  about  the  117th  meridian,  crossed  a  range 
of  mountains,  made  u})  chiefly  of  detached  hills  or  buttes  running  easterly  and 
westerly,  and  when  upon  the  northern  slope,  about  60  miles  from  the  river, 
discovered  gold  in  placers  and  in  situ. 

TusCAiioRA  Distkict. — Upon  making  the  discoveries  of  gold,  the  prospectors 
organized  a  mining  district,  to  which  they  gave  the  name  of  Tuscarora.  A  small 
stream  running  through  it  northwardly  was  named  McCan.  Along  this  stream  for 
about  three  miles  gold  in  small  quantities  was  found  to  exist.    It  appears  very  much 


430  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

diffused  througli  the  soil  from  the  surface  to  the  depth  reached,  which  did  not  exceed 
five  feet.  Several  ledges,  or  what  are  supposed  to  be  ledges,  were  found,  showing 
gold.  The  party  retiu'ning  to  Austin  with  specimens  reported  their  discoveries, 
and  as  is  usual  upon  such  occasions  an  excitement  was  created,  and  100  or  more 
men,  well  armed  for  defence  against  the  Indians,  and  prepared  for  prospecting, 
immediately  proceeded  to  the  new  mining  region.  A  large  area  of  country  has 
already  been  explored,  and  mines  found  in  vai'ious  localities.  At  the  present 
time  the  real  value  of  the  discoveries  is  unknown,  as  but  little  labor  has  been 
expended  upon  either  the  gold-bearing  veins  or  in  washing  the  soil.  The  creek 
does  not  furnish  water  in  sufficient  quantities  for  extensive  and  rapid  washing, 
and  therefore  unless  very  rich  deposits  are  found,  it  is  not  probable  any  large 
fortunes  will  be  realized.  It  is  estimated,  however,  from  the  prospects  obtained 
that  from  $10  to  $20  per  diem  may  be  made  per  man,  for  a  score  or  more  of 
men.  Should  the  specimens  of  gold-bearing  quartz  found  be  any  criterion  of 
the  value  of  the  veins  at  great  depths,  they  are  rich  indeed.  The  geography  of 
the  region  is  but  little  known,  and  it  cannot  be  stated  at  present  whether  the 
waters  drain  to  the  Owyhee  sink  in  a  basin  of  their  own,  or  flow  to  some  branch 
of  the  Humboldt.  A  short  period  will  determine  all  such  doubts.  The  country 
is  described  as  well  adapted  for  grazing,  producing  an  abundance  of  grass  of  a 
very  nutricious  character.  There  are  many  valleys  of  large  size  capable  of  cul- 
tivation, and  which,  when  the  treacherous  savage  is  exterminated  or  subdued, 
and  the  miners  fill  the  hills,  \\nll  fumish  pleasant  homes  to  settlers. 

About  40  miles  east  of  Tuscarora,  and  on  the  southern  slope  of  the  range, 
ledges  bearing  both  silver  and  gold  have  been  discovered.  These  discoveries 
were  latelv  made.  No  district  has  yet  been  formed.  The  locality  is  about  50 
miles  north  of  Gravelly  Ford,  on  the  Humboldt  river.  T.  J.  Tennant  and  party, 
the  discoverers,  brought  specimens  of  the  ore  to  Austin,  where  they  were  assaye<l, 
and  showed  value.  The  rock  is  granite,  the  veins  of  quartz  nnining  north  and 
south.  This  is  represented  as  a  good  fanning  and  grazing  country,  with  grass 
covering  the  hills  like  a  meadow.  Game,  as  deer,  antelope,  hare,  and  several 
varieties  of  grouse,  the  chief  of  which  is  the  sage  hen,  abounds  in  great  plenty. 

This  new  region,  which  has  so  long  been  closed  against  the  pioneer,  promises 
to  become  an  important  and  wealthy  portion  of  the  State. 

The  following  classification  of  the  minerals  which  characterize  the  veins  of 
Eastern  Nevada  is  prepared  by  Charles  A.  Stetefeldt,  esq.,  assayer  and  metal- 
lurgist, of  Austin. 

CATALOGUE  OF  MINERALS. 

Reesk  Etver  District.* — Eastern  part  of  Lander  IliJl  and  Central  HiJl. — 
Pyrargyrie,  proustite, polybasite, and  stephanite predominant;  tetrahedrite  seldom; 
few  suli)liurots  of  base  metals. 

Central  part  of  Lander  Hill  and  Union  Hill. — Tetrahedrite  predominant;  pyrites 
of  iron  and  copper,  galena  and  blende;  few  polybasite  and  stephanite. 

Western  part  of  Lander  Hill  ami  Union  Hill. — Ai-gentiferous  galena,  pyrites 

'MINERALS    OF    REE>=E    RIVER    DISTRICT,    ARRANGED    ACCORDING    TO 
DANA'S  SYSTEM.  BY  EUGENE  N.  RIOTTE,  M.E. 

I.  Native  elements: 

Native  pold,  native  silver,  native  copper. 

II.  SUI  IMIURETS  AKSEXURETS,  ETC  : 

I.  Biniiry  compuumls. 

1.  Stibuito,  antimoiifjlance. 

2.  Silvcrglanze;   erubcscite,  varief^ated  copper  ore ;  galena,  blende,  copper  glance,  stro 
meieritc,  pyrites,  lucopgrites,  molyadeuite. 

II.  Dotiblc  binary  compounds. 
Chalcopyrite,  pyrargyrite,  proustite,  fetrahedrite,  polybasite,  stephanite,  fircblende. 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  431 

of  iron  aiul  copjn'r,  blende  inrdoininaut;  few  tetnilicilrito.  In  imtst  veins  above 
water  lovi'l,  horn  silver  predominant. 

Twin  Kivkk  District. — Ophlr  Canon. — Species  of  tetraliedritc  containing 
gold  and  silver  predominant;   native  silver;   blende,  pyrites  of  iron  and  copper. 

Sianmlt  Canon. — Argentiferous  galena  predominant ;  native  sihcr,  silver  glance ; 
blende,  pyrites  of  iron. 

North  Twin  Hiver  District. — Ptirh  Canon. — Mixture  of  pyrites  of  iron, 
l\vrites  of  copper,  blende,  argentiferous  galena,  spathic  iron,  native  silver,  pyrar- 
girite,  and  quartz. 

Reveilt-k  District. — Argentiferous  sulphuret  of  copper  predominant;  silver 
glance,  sulphuret  of  antimony.     Croppings  contain  much  horn  silver. 

PniLADELt'iiiA  AND  CoLUMBUS  DISTRICTS. — Stetefcldtitc  (ucw  mineral)  pre- 
dominant; galena;  pyrites  of  copper.     Croppings  contain  nmcli  horn  silver. 

Eureka  District. — Argentiferous  galena  predominant;  stetefeldtite. 

Empire  District. — Stetefeldtite  predominant. 

UxiON  District. — Stromeyerito  predominant;  native  gold  and  silver;  silver 
glance;  horn  silver. 

Washincton  District. — Argentiferous  galena  predominant;  native  silver; 
pyritc  of  iron  and  cojiper,  blende. 

Summit  axd  Big  Creek  District. — Argentiferous  galena  predominant; 
pyrites  of  iron  and  cop[)er,  blende,  sulphuret  of  antimony. 

Smoky  Valley  District. — Argentiferous  sulphm-et  of  copper,  argentiferous 
galena,  blende,  pyrites  of  iron  and  copper. 

Bunker  Hill  District. — Native  gold  and  silver,  argentiferous  sulphm-et 
of  copper,  pyrites  of  iron  and  copper,  galena. 

Santa  Yk  District. — Native  gold ;  pyrites  of  iron,  copper  glance. 

Lone  Mountain. — Native  gold;  pyrites  of  iron  and  copper. 

New  I'ass  District. — Native  gold;  argentiferous  galena,  pyrites  of  copper 
and  copper  glance. 

Bullion  Product. — The  actual  amount  of  silver  bullion  shipped  from  Austin 
to  Viiginia  and  San  Francisco  for  the  12  months  ending  August  1,  18G7,  is 
§1,455,27.3  GO,  the  greater  portion  being  in  the  last  five  months  of  the  present 
yeai".    This  is  ascertained  from  the  way-bills  of  the  express  and  stage  companies. 


SECTION    XXI. 

THE  OVERLAND  TELEGRAPH. 

The  subject  of  trans-continental  telegraphic  communication  has  attracted  gene- 
ral attention  during  the  jiast  few  years,  and  almost  every  intelligent  person  has 
acquired  Some  knowledge  respecting  it.  1  am  induced  to  believe,  however,  that 
much  may  still  be  learned  from  the  practical  experiences  of  operators  along  the 
route.     The  magnitude  of  the  enterprise,  the  benefits  resulting  I'rotn  it  both  to 

IIL  Flourids,  ciilorids,  bromids,  todids  : 
L   Binary  compounds. 
Common  salt,  kerargyrite,  bromyrite,  todyrite.(?) 
IV.  Oxvr.KN  compounds: 

I.  Oxyde  binary  compounds. 

Red  copper,  magnetic  iron  ore,  hematite,  housnanite,  pyrolusite,  isilomelan,  wad,  quarz, 
opal. 

II.  Sails  double  binary  compounds  : 

Pyroxene;  rhodonite,  silicate  of  manganese;  hornblende,  muscovite,  feldspar,  oligoclas 
and  orthoclas,  tourmalie,  chrysocolla  ;  hubnerite,  tungstate  of  manganese  ;  barytes,  gypsum, 
cyanosite.  copperas,  glauber  salts,  apatete,  nitre,  cal cite,  carbonate  of  manganese,  cbalybite, 
spathic  iron  ore,  cerusite,  trona,  malachite,  asuritc,  titauite,  tungstate  of  lead. 


432  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

the  commercial  world  and  the  mining  community,  and  tlie  difficulties  encountered 
in  carrying  it  into  effect  are  not  yet  fully  appreciated. 

The  first  practical  movement  toward  the  construction  of  the  overland  telegraph 
was  made  by  California.*  The  Placerville  and  Hum])oldt  Telegraph  Company 
was  organized  in  185^,  and  the  first  pole  of  the  line  fi'om  Placerville  across  the 
Sien-a  Nevada  mountains  was  erected  on  the  4th  of  July  of  that  year.  During 
the  autumn  of  the  same  year  the  line  hatl  reached  Genoa — ^then  in  Utah  Tem- 
tory,  now  in  the  State  of  Nevada — and  by  the  spring  of  1859  it  had  reached 
Carson,  from  which  point  a  branch  was  extended  to  Virginia  City  soon  after  the 
discovery  of  the  silver  mines. 

This  much  of  the  line  was  constructed  entirely  by  private  enterprise.  Neither 
State  nor  general  government  afforded  any  assistance,  though  repeated  applica- 
tion was  made  to  both.  Disagreements  between  Messrs.  Broderick  and  Gwin, 
senators  of  the  United  States  from  California,  prevented  the  passage  through 
Congress  of  a  bill  introduced  by  the  former  in  May,  1858,  for  the  constniction 
of  a  trans-contiiiental  line  between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  States. 

In  April,  1859,  the  legislature  passed  an  act  pledging  the  State  to  give  86,000 
a  year  to  the  telegraph  line  that  should  make  the  first  connection  with  an  eastern 
line,  and  $4,000  a  year  to  the  next. 

Two  companies  were  encouraged  to  enter  the  list — one  via  Salt  Lake  city  and 
the  other  via  Los  Angeles  and  the  Butterfield  stage  route  through  Arizona  and 
Texas. 

The  dissensions  already  refeiTed  to  in  Congress  retarded  the  adoption  of  any  of 
the  measures  proposed  on  the  Atlantic  side,  until  the  16th  of  June,  1860,'v\dien  an 
act  was  passed  directing  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasmy  to  advertise  for  sealed 
proposals  to  bo  received  for  60  days  after  the  passage  of  said  act  for  the  use  by 
the  government  of  a  line  or  lines  of  telegraph  to  be  constructed  within  two  yeai"s 
fi-om  July  31,  1860,  from  some  point  on  the  west  line  of  Missouri,  by  any  route  the 
contractor  might  select,  to  San  Francisco,  for  a  period  of  10  years,  and  to  award 
the  contract  to  the  lowest  bidder,  provided  he  did  not  require  more  than  $40,000 
a  year. 

Permission  was  gi-anted  to  the  successful  bidder  to  use  for  ten  years  such  public 
lands  of  the  United  States  as  might  be  necessary'  for  the  right  of  way  and  for 
the  purpose  of  establishing  stations  for  repairs,  not  exceeding  at  any  one  station 
one  quarter-section,  and  not  to  exceed  one  in  15  miles  on  the  Avhole  average  of 
the  distance.  No  pre-emption  right  to  the  land  was  granted.  The  contract  was 
not  to  be  made  until  the  line  was  in  actual  operation. 

Certain  reservations  were  also  made  establishing  for  the  government  a  priority 
of  use  of  the  line,  free  from  charge  until  at  the  ordinary  charges  for  private  mes- 
sages the  sum  of  $40,000  was  reached,  after  which  the  excess  was  to  becertified 
to  Congress  by  the  Secretar}^  of  the  Treasury.  '     - 

Foiu'  bids  were  made  in  accordance  witli  the  proposals  advertised  by  the  Sec- 
retary of  the  Treasury,  ranging  from  $40,000  to  $25,000,  three  of  which  were 
sul)sequently  witlidrawn.  The  highest  bid  was  that  made  by  Mr.  Hiram  Sibley, 
which  was  accepted. 

The  parties  represented  by  Mr.  Sibley  met  at  Rochester,  New  York,  and  con- 
cluded uj)on  a  scries  of  propositions,  which  they  submitted  to  the  Pacific  com- 
panies through  the  agency  of  Mr.  J.  11.  Wade  and  Major  Bee. 

Tlie  consolidation  was  effected  in  JNIarch,  1861,  between  all  the  companies  on 
the  Pacific  coast,  by  the  purchase  by  the  California  State  Telegraph  Company 
of  all  the  lines  belonging  to  other  companies. 

The  California  Stale  Telegraph  Company  was  the  oldest  telegraph  company 
on  the  Pacific  coast,  with  a  cajjital  of  $1,250,000,  of  which  Mr.  Horace  W;  Cai-pen- 
tier,  of  California,  was  president,  and  Mr.  J.  Mora  Moss  vice-president. 


'  "From  data  published  a  few  years  since  in  the  San  Francisco  Evening  Bulletin. 


WEST    OF   THE   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  433 

Tlie  Overland  Teloi^raph  Company  was  then  incoi-porated  promptly  by  tlio 
owners  of  the  California  State  I'elegraph  Company,  also  with  a  cajiitul  of 
$1,:2.>0,000,  aiul  under  the  same  board  of  (ifHc<'rs. 

On  the  1st  of  January,  1S62,  the  California  .State  Tele<rraph  and  the  Over- 
land 'Peleij^raph  Conipanv  emisolidated  un(l<,'r  the  name  of  the  California  State 
Teleirrapli  Company,  with  a  capital  of  $r>,r)00,000. 

Thus  all  the  lines  in  California  and  the  overland  line  to  Salt  Lake  City  came 
into  the  jiossession  and  under  the  direction  of  this  company. 

The  ea.stern  end  from  Salt  Lake  City  to  Omaha  beloni^ed  t<)  the  Pacific  Tele- 
grajili  Couipany. 

^Ir.  Edward  Creii»hton,  a  o-entleman  of  ijreat  energy  and  ex]ierience,  was  the 
constructor  of  the  line  from  Omaha  to  Salt  Lake  City.  He  performed  the  duties 
of  his  position  with  perfect  success  under  obstacles  of  a  most  formidable  char- 
acter. 

The  California  division  of  the  line  was  reconstructed  from  Placorville  to  Fort 
Chnrehill,  and  thence  continued  to  Salt  Lake  City  under  the  general  supervisiim 
of  3fr.  Carpentier,  who  personally  visited  all  parts  of  the  route  and  gave  the 
enterprise  his  earnest  attention. 

Mr.  James  Gaud)le,  superintendent  of  the  State  Telegraph  Company,  a  gen- 
tleman thoroughly  familiar  with  the  details  of  the  telegraph  system,  who  had 
the  advantage  of  experience  in  the  construction  of  every  line  built  in  California 
by  the  State  Telegraph  Company,  had  the  special  supervision  of  the  whole  work, 
and  much  is  due  to  his  expcjrience,  energy,  and  skill. 

Mr.  James  Street  superintended  that  part  of  the  woi'k  between  Rulty  valley 
and  Salt  Lake  City,  one  of  the  most  dithcult  sections  on  the  route. 

Mr.  J.  M.  Hubbard  superintended  the  constniction  of  the  section  from  Carson 
to  lluby  valley. 

On  the  27th  of  ^fay,  18G1,  Mr.  Gamble,  as  general  superintendent  of  the  line, 
started  a  train  of  30  wagons  from  Sacramento,  loaded  with  wire,  insulators,  pro- 
visions, &:c.,  with  three  or  four  hundred  head  of  oxen,  horses,  and  mules;  and, 
although  it  was  considered  late  in  the  season,  there  Avas  no  stoppage  on  account 
i>f  storms  or  bad  roads.  The  snows  had  begun  to  melt  in  the  SieiTa  Nevadas ; 
the  mountain  streams  were  swollen  into  fearful  toiTcnts ;  the  roads  were  cut  up 
into  ruts  and  mudholes,  many  of  which  were  almost  impassable ;  and  forage  was 
exceedingly  scarce  and  dear.  Some  of  the  wagons  were  upset,  many  of  tlie  ani- 
mals foundered  in  the  mud,  but  the  train  went  on  regardless  of  every  obstacle. 

On  the  24th  of  June  the  first  pole  was  set  on  the  line  from  Fort  Churchill  to 
Salt  Lake,  and  on  the  24th  day  of  October  the  connection  with  the  city  of  the 
saints  was  completed. 

History  presents  no  record  of  such  a  stupendous  work  accomplished  in  so  short 
a  time.  Five  hundred  and  seventy  miles  of  telegraph  line,  built  through  a  dreary 
desert  where  wood  and  water  were  the  exceptions,  within  the  brief  space  of  four 
months!  Surely  if  the  Americans  are  boastful  in  their  speech,  their  acts  are 
remarkable.  Men  who  build  telegrajdis  across  continents,  regardless  of  seasons, 
deserts,  or  savage  races,  have  a  right  to  speak  well  of  themselves. 

The  nund)er  of  poles  to  the  mile  is  from  25  to  30,  depending  upon  the  char- 
acter of  the  country ;  the  average  length  is  about  22  feet;  and  the  kinds  of  tim- 
ber chietly  used  redwood,  pine,  cedar,  and  tamarack.  It  is  customary  to  sink 
the  poles  from  three  to  four  feet  in  the  ground,  according  to  the  nature  of  the 
.soil.  In  soft  or  marshy  ground  they  re(piire  to  be  braced.  Ordinarily  tliey  last 
about  two  or  three  years,  much  depending  on  the  climate  and  durability  ot  the 
wood.  The  best  woods  used  on  the  California  section  are  said  to  bo  the  redwood 
and  cedar. 

Nearly  one-third  of  the  poles  had  to  be  hauled  from  the  Sierra  Nevada  moun- 
<^ains  to  Austin  and  beyond,  extending  to  a  distance  of  more  than  300  miles,  at 
a  cost  of  four  to  six  cents  a  pound  for  freight.     But  this  was  the  least  of  the 
28 


434  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND   TERRITORIES 

d;fficultic"S  encountered.  Water  is  exceeding-ly  scarce  in  tliese  sage  deserts,  and 
it  often  happened  tliat  both  men  and  animals  suffered  fearfully  from  thirst.  It 
was  a  constant  battle  almost  every  step  of  the  way  against  the  most  formidable 
natural  obstacles — alkali  deserts,  scarcity  of  water,  lack  of  timber  for  poles  and 
feed  for  the  animals,  rugged  mountains  and  difficult  passes.  In  some  places  the 
sand  v.as  so  soft  and  shifting  as  to  afford  scarcely  a  foothold  for  the  poles ;  in  others 
the  ground  was  so  hard  and  rocky  that  foundations  had  to  be  drilled  out  or  built 
around  them  with  stones.  During  the  progress  of  the  work  despatches  continued 
to  \>Q  regularly  transmitted  from  California  to  the  outer  end  of  the  line,  where 
they  were  copied  and  forwarded  by  pony  express  to  the  approaching  end  of 
the  eastern  division,  and  vice  versa,  so  that  scarcely  a  day  was  lost  in  the  use 
of  the  telegraph  on  either  side. 

Constant  coinmunication  was  also  kept  up  Ijotween  the  operators  at  the  various 
stations  along  the  line  and  the  office  of  the  company  at  San  Francisco,  who  were 
daily  advised  of  the  progress  of  the  work. 

Poles  of  sufficient  size  and  strength  were  very  difficult  to  obtain  on  other  por- 
tions of  the  route. 

The  cost  of  transportation  was  the  most  expensive  item.  In  the  vicinity  of 
Salt  lake  this  difficulty  was  in  part  ol>viated  by  the  adroit  management  of  Mr. 
Street,  who  had  special  charge  of  that  section.  It  was  very  generally  supjiosed 
that  Brigham  Young,  the  president  of  the  Mormons,  was  hostile  to  the  building 
of  the  line  through  the  Mormon  settlements.  Mr.  Street  was  well  aware  that 
without  his  co-operation  the  difficulties  incident  to  the  undertaking  would,  at 
least,  be  greatly  augmented.  He  adopted  tlie  policy,  therefore,  of  conciliating 
the  great  leader  of  the  latter-day  saints — whether  by  pleasant  words  or  by  more 
substantial  tokens  of  esteem  is  still  a  mooted  question.  His  interviews  with 
Brigham  on  the  subject  were  highly  amicable,  and  I  have  heard  them  graphi- 
cally described.  Among  other  things,  it  is  reported  that  Brigham  expressed  sur- 
prise at  being  regarded  as  an  enemy  of  this  important  and  beneficial  enteiiH'ise. 
''  Why  should  we  be  opposed  to  a  telegraph  line  ?"  said  he  ;  "  we  have  nothing 
to  fear  from  it,  and  everything  to  gain.  It  is  to  our  interest,  as  well  as  yours,  to 
have  the  means  of  communicating  with  the  outer  world.  Our  religion  cannot 
suft'er  from  it,  and  it  will  certainly  be  advantageous  to  om*  industrial  interests." 
Whether  this  be  true  or  not,  it  is  certain  he  gave  his  hearty  co-operation  to 
the  enterprise,  ordered  out  men  and  teams,  and  cordially  assisted  in  the  construc- 
tion of  the  line  from  Salt  Lake  City  to  Deep  creek,  a  distance^  of  174  miles. 

The  first  through  message  transmitted  over  the  line,  from  Salt  lake  to  San 
Francisco,  is  interesting  in  the  above  connection  : 

Gre.\t  Salt  Lake  City, 

October  24 — 7  p.  ra. 
To  Hon.  H.  W.  CarI'ENTIER,  President  of  the  Occrlaud  Telegraph  : 

Dear  Sir  :  I  am  very  much  oblig'ed  to  you  tor  your  kindness,  manifested  through  Mr. 
Street,  in  giving  mo  the  privilege  of  first  message  to  California.     May  success  ever  attend, 
the  enterprise.     The  success  of  Mr.  Street  in  completing  his  end  of  the  line,  under  many 
luifavorable  circumstances,  in  so  short  a  time,  is  beyond  our  most  sanguine  anticipations. 
Join  your  wire  with  the  Russian  empire  and  wo  will  converse  with  Europe. 
Your  friend, 

BRIGHAM  YOUNG. 

This  was  in  answer  to  a  despatch  from  Mr.  Carpentier,  as  follows  : 

San  Francisco,  California, 

October  24,  1861. 
To  Hon.  BRIGII.AiM  YOUXG,  Great  Salt  Lake  City  : 

That  which  was  so  long  a  hope  is  now  a  reality-.  The  trans-continental  telegraph  is  now 
completed.  May  it  prove  a  bond  of  perpetual  union  and  friendship  between  the  people  of 
Utah  and  the  people  of  California. 

H.  W.  CARPENTIER. 


WKST    OF    THE    KOCKY    ^lOUNTAINS.  435 

Tliis  was  tlie  first  through  message  from  San  Francisco  to  Salt  Lake  City. 
Tlic  first  throuii-h  uiossago- from  the  Atlantic  States  contained  the  following 
melancholy  announcement : 

Great  Salt  Lake  City, 

October  24 — 7  p.  m. 
To  II.  W.  Caupkntier  : 

rcilDiK'l  Baker  was  killed  in  llio  liaftlci  of  the  '2 1st,  while  in  the  net  of  clieciing  on  his  coni- 
urind.     Intense  excitement  and  niouiiiins:  in  I'hiladclphia  over  his  death. 

STREET. 

The  line  was  started  from  St.  Joseph,  west,  under  the  supervision  of  Mr. 
Creighton,  in  the  summer  of  18G0.  It  was  built  as  far  as  Fort  Kearney,  via 
OniaLa,  that  fall,  following  the  north  fork  of  the  Platte  river.  The  contract, 
however,  was  not  made  until  March,  1861.  During  the  summer  and  fall  tlie 
work  was  vigorously  pushed  forward  l)y  Mr.  Creighton  and  his  subordinates.  Ir 
reached  Salt  Lake  City  on  the  19th  of  October,  1861,  just  five  days  prior  to  the 
completion  of  the  California  branch. 

Thus,  in  the  language  t)f  ]\Ir.  Carpentier,  "  that  which  was  so  long  a  hope 
became  a  reality ;"  thus  were  the  people  of  the  Atlantic  miited  to  their  friends 
and  fellow-countrymen  of  the  Pacific  by  an  electric  bond  that  annihilated  time 
and  space. 

Congratulations  followed  from  every  State  of  the  Union  and  from  every  civi- 
lized nation  of  the  world.     It  was  the  great  achievement  of  the  19th  centur3\ 

Within  a  few  days  after  the  completion  of  the  line,  the  secessionists  in  Mis- 
somi  tore  it  down  in  several  places,  and  for  a  while  messages  were  sent  east  via 
Hannilial,  Missouri,  connecting  with  Quincy,  Illinois.  Subsequently  a  change 
was  made  1)}'  which  a  connnection  was  formed  between  Omaha  and  Chicago, 
through  Iowa. 

From  San  Francisco  to  Chicago  the  distance  is  about  2,700  miles  by  the  route 
taken  ;  to  New  York  little  short  of  4,000  miles. 

This  is  tlu?  longest  circuit  on  the  American  continent,  perhaps  in  the  world. 
For  practical  purposes  it  is  necessary  to  repeat  at  Salt  Lake  City,  Omaha,  and 
Chicago. 

Messages  either  \\ay  are  rewritten  and  repeated  at  Salt  Lake  City,  where  an 
accurate  account  is  kept  between  the  Atlantic  ami  California  oilices. 

Direct  connnunication  lietween  San  Francisco  and  New  York  has  frequently 
taken  place,  but  this  can  only  be  done  under  very  favoraldo  circumstances,  when 
there  is  little  or  no  electrical  disturbance.  Nev;  York  and  San  Francisco  held 
direct  communication  ^\^th  each  other  for  the  first  time  on  Thursday,  Novemlicr 
G,  1SG2.  On  that  memorable  day  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  oceans  were  united  in 
the  iron  bond  of  matrimony,  from  which  it  is  to  bo  hoped  they  will  never  be 
divorced. 

The  distance  is  so  gi-eat,  however,  and  the  line  subject  to  so  many  electrical 
disturbances  that  no  battery  can  be  made  sufficiently  powerful  to  overcome  all 
the  obstacles  in  the  way  of  direct  communication.  For  practical  piu-poses  mes- 
sages have  to  be  repeated  at  the  stations  designated  for  that  purpose. 

The  battery  furce  required  for  the  working  of  the  overland  telegraph  is  small 
compared  Avith  that  required  in  the  Atlantic  States.  This  is  in  i)!irt  owing  to  the 
rarification  of  the  atmosphere,  and  the  jjrevailing  absence  of  moisture  and  atmos- 
jdieric  electricity ;  also,  in  jiart,  to  the  absence  of  trees,  which  in  timbered  coun- 
tries are  apt  to  come  in  contact  with  the  line  and  affect  the  insulation. 

At  Salt  Lake  City  .50  cups  of  main  battery  are  used  for  two  wires,  one  extending 
east  to  the  repeating  station  at  Fort  Laramie,  500  miles,  and  the  other  west  to 
Cai'son,  600  miles. 

Experienced  operators  inform  me  that  it  requires  double  that  amount  of  bat- 
tery to  work  the  same  length  of  line  on  any  other  part  of  the  American  continent. 

For  every  space  of  30  to  50  miles  between  Omaha  and  San  Francisco  there 


436  KESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

iri  an  office  or  repair  station,  -wlicro  men  are  kept  for  tLe  puipose  of  protecting 
and  repairing  the  line.  These  men  are  provided  with  wii'es,  implements,  pro- 
visions, &c.,  and  hold  themselves  in  readiness  to  start  out  at  a  moment's  notice 
to  any  point  within  their  range.  The  expedition  with  which  poles  are  reset  and 
breaks  in  the  wire  repaired  is  almost  incredible.  An  ordinary  break  seldom  detains 
despatches  more  than  a  few  hours. 

So  skilled  do  some  of  the  operators  become  in  the  art  of  telegraphing  that 
they  are  enabled  to  read  by  the  mere  sense  of  touch  or  sight  applied  to  the  wire  or 
the  instrument.  Mr.  Shaffuer  rehates  instances  in  which  operators  have  read  mes- 
sages by  appljnng  to  their  tongue  a  small  wire  attached  to  the  main  line.  Still 
more  remarkable  is  the  fact  that  a  person  near  by  can  discover  what  is  passing 
by  watching  the  vibrations  or  electric  throbs  on  the  tongue  of  another.  The 
communication  is  imperfect,  however,  and  would  scarcely  be  reliable  beyond  the 
simplest  monosyllables. 

Breaks  in  the  line  are  sometimes  very  difficult  to  find.  An  example  is  given 
by  Mr.  Shaffiier  where  there  was  a  break  between  two  stations.  The  line  was 
carefully  examined  all  the  way  through.  Apparently  it  was  perfect,  yet  there 
was  no  communication.  By  testing  from  each  station  it  was  discovered  that  the 
break  was  within  a  space  of  a  few  hundred  yards.  The  wire  was  then  cai'efully 
examined,  when  it  was  found  that  a  silk  cord  had  been  substituted  by  some 
designing  person  so  closely  resembling  the  wire  that  to  the  eye  it  presented  no 
perceptible  diflerence. 

As  an  illustration  of  the  wonderful  delicacy  of  the  ear  acquired  by  the  ope- 
rators, I  must  not  omit  to  mention  one  or  two  facts  connected  with  the  working 
of  the  instruments. 

In  large  offices  where  many  instruments  are  at  work,  an  ordinary  visitor  almost 
imagines  himself  in  some  extensive  clock  establishment.  There  is  a  perfect 
medley  of  ticks,  as  unintelligible  to  him  as  would  be  a  bag  of  shot  rained  down 
over  the  floor.  Yet  an  operator  who  has  left  his  seat  to  say  a  word  to  a  friend 
in  some  other  part  of  the  room  suddenly  starts  back,  saying  "  I  am  called." 
Among  a  thousand  ticks  his  particular  tick  has  struck  upon  the  tympanum  of 
his  ear.  One  cannot  but  think  of  the  final  call  which,  sooner  or  later,  will  be 
sent  doAvn  from  heaven  to  each  one  of  us  among  millions  of  busy  souls,  and  yet 
be  intelligible  as  this  earthly  call  is  to  the  operator  in  a  telegrapli  office. 

It  should  also  be  mentioned,  as  a  characteristic  illustration,  that  operators  have 
an  individuality  of  style  or  manner  as  distinctly  marked  as  the  difierences  in 
chirograph}".  For  example,  a  message  is  being  received  at  the  office  in  San 
Francisco  from  the  office  in  Carson.  The  superintendent  standing  by,  asks  "  Who 
is  that  at  the  instnmient  at  Carson?"  The  operator  replies,  ''Jones  is  at  it  now. 
Thcimpson  was  at  it  a  few  minutes  ago."  Presently  he  adds,  "  Smith  has  it  now." 
How  does  he  know  all  this"?  Neither  Jones,  nor  Smith,  nor  Thompson  has  men- 
tioned his  name  or  said  a  word  on  his  own  account,  and  yet  the  fact  of  each 
change  is  perfectly  clear  to  the  operator  at  Sun  Francisco.  Ho  knows  the  style  of 
each  man.  One  makes  long  dashes  and  quick  dots;  another  runs  a  race  between 
dots  and  dashes  ;  the  third  is  sharp,  clear,  and  methodical.  Each  has  his  indi- 
vidual characteristics,  which  have  become  as  familiar  as  the  tones  or  modulations 
of  his  voice  to  the  ear,  or  his  handwriting  or  face  to  the  eye.  The  language  of 
sounds  is  even  considered  less  liable  to  eiTor  in  many  offices  than  that  of  written 
signs,  and  has  been  of  late  very  generally  adopted. 

East  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  the  poles  are  often  t)urnt  for  miles  by  prairie 
fires.  The  Indians  on  their  hunting  expeditions  are  in  the  habit  of  firing  the 
dry  grass  for  the  purpose  of  driving  their  game.  Once  started,  the  fliunes  sweep 
over  the  country  for  lumdreds  ol'  miles.  Emigrant  parties  camping  by  the  road- 
side leave  their  fires  burning  with  little  regard  to  consequences,  and  many  a  mile 
of  line  has  been  destroyed  through  the  thoughtlessness  of  travellers,  who,  after 
lighting  their  pipes,  throw  the  burning  match  into  a  bunch  of  dry  grass,  if  possible, 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY   MOUNTAINS.  437 

since  it  presents  a  peeuliar  attraction.  The  passion  for  dcstrnction  is  inherent  in 
man  ;  and  it  may  be  laid  down  as  an  axiom,  ajiplicalde  to  all  races  of  the  eartli, 
that  where  there  is  a  chance  of  doing  mischief  free  from  the  restraining  inllu- 
cnces  of  law,  by  the  burning  of  a  prairie  or  a  forest,  human  nature  is  not  proof 
against  the  tcmjjtation.  The  Indians  differ  from  the  whites  only  in  this,  fliat 
being  an  ignorant  race,  they  usually  have  some  object  to  gain  in  thus  destroying 
the  vegetation. 

Dm-ing  tiie  summer  months,  the  region  of  conntry  bordering  on  the  Platte 
river  is  subject  to  teiTific  thunder-storms,  which  sweep  over  the  plains  with  irre- 
sistible force.  The  earth  l>ecomes  saturated  with  heavy  rains,  and  the  poles 
being  loosened  in  their  foundations,  are  blown  down  for  miles.  Scarcely  a  .day 
passes,  in  the  early  jiart  of  sunnncr,  without  a  severe  stona  on  some  })art  of  the 
line  between  the  Kocky  mountains  and  the  borders  of  a\Iissouri.  'Jlie  instrn- 
ments  are  '*  burned  "  by  lightning,  dr  the  poles  swept  to  the  earth,  and  the  insu- 
lation destroyed  or  obstructed.  It  is  extremely  difHcult  to  Avork  through  the 
entire  length  of  the  line  during  the  prevalence  of  these  stomis — many  times 
impracticable  for  several  days.  This  source  of  annoyance  cannot  be  overcome 
by  any  means  known  under  the  present  system  of  telegraphing. 

In  the  dry  deserts  of  the  Great  Basin,  both  east  and  west  of  Salt  Lake,  the 
wire  has  been  known  to  work  for  miles  without  interruption,  while  partially 
imbedded  in  the  sand.  The  heat  of  the  sun  absorbs  all  moisture  from  the  sand 
and  renders  it  a  non-conductor. 

We  thus  lind  a  very  peculiar  comlanation  of  obstacles — especially  on  the  eastern 
division.  In  the  month  of  June,  for  example,  the  weather  at  Salt  Lake  may  be  clear 
and  warm,  while  the  AVaschita  mountains,  lying  to  the  east,  arc  covered  with  snow. 
It  may  be  raining  heavily  at  Fort  Bridger,  snowing  at  South  Pass,  clear  at  Fort 
Laramie,  storming  and  raining  along  the  Platte,  and  so  on  to  Chicago.  But  it 
is  worthy  of  note  that  when  the  lightning  is  so  terrific  at  one  station  as  to 
cause  the  operators  to  leave  their  instnmients  in  alarm,  the  operators  on  either 
side  are  frequently  able  to  continue  their  communications,  the  electric  current 
passing  entirely  through  the  storm  without  any  material  interruption.  Salt 
Lake  communicated  with  stations  far  east  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  when  at 
South  Pass  the  operators  were  effectually  cut  off. 

In  the  vicinity  of  South  Pass  the  operators  are  sometimes  "  snowed  in ''  for 
months  at  a  time.  All  communication  with  the  outer  world,  save  by  telegraph, 
is  completely  cut  off.  A  more  isolated  life  than  these  poor  fellows  lead  can 
scarcely  be  conceived.  Around  them  as  far  as  the  eye  c<au  reach  the  mountains 
and  plains  are  covered  w"ith  snow.  All  traces  of  human  life  are  obliterated. 
The  station-houses  are  covered  uji,  high  over  the  roofs,  and  it  is  only  b\^  cutting 
a  way  out  and  keeeping  it  clear  that  the  occupants  save  themselves  from  being- 
buried  alive. 

One  of  these  stations  fs  situated  within  a  short  distance  of  a  point  to  which 
travellers  in  future  ages  will  probably  make  pilgrimages,  as  the  Makometans 
now  do  to  Mecca.  It  is  the  heart  of  the  North  American  continent,  from  which 
flow  the  great  arteries  of  commerce.  Within  a  distance  of  200  yards  lie  the 
sources  of  the  ^Missouri  lyid  the  Colorado.  Ilere  is  the  true  line  of  division 
betwToeu  tlie  Atlantic  and  the  Pacilic  sloi)es.  On  the  one  side  an  insignificant 
spring  bursts  from  the  earth,  (lathering  contributions  from  every  canon  and 
ravine  as  it  flows,  it  fonns  in  time  the  Sweetwater  river,  which,  after  a  long 
and  turbulent  career,  empties  into  the  Platte,  the  great  liver  of  the  plains.  From 
the  Platte  the  Missouri  takes  up  the  current  and  rolls  it  onward  till  it  swells 
mto  the  majestic  toiTcnt  of  the  Mississippi.  The  Gulf  of  Mexico  receives  the 
triliute.  Up  north,  into  the  Arctic  regions  flows  the  Gulf  Stream,  which  in  turn 
pays  tribute  to  the  shores  (>[  Norway  and  Iceland.  Who  knows  but  the  Indian 
deity  of  the  llocky  mountiiins  holds  converse  with  the  old  Scandinavian  god 
Thor,  sending  him  letters  of  bimch-gi-ass  and  (bift-wood,  while  in  return  he 


438  EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

receives  from  the  winds,  or  tlirougli  tlio  flood-gates  of  lieaveii  aslies  from  the 
Jokuls  of  Iceland  ?  The  idea  is  not  altogether  without  foundation,  but  cannot 
in  our  present  state  of  knowledge  be  tunied  to  any  useful  telegraphic  pmpose. 

On  the  other  side,  200  yards  distant,  rise  the  Pacific  springs,  which  fomi  the 
source  of  the  Green  river.  From  Green  river  swells  the  great  Colorado,  the  Reil 
river  of  the  desert;  which,  after  a  long  and  thirsty  career  through  burning  sands 
and  cheerless  wastes,  cutting  in  twain  the  grim  mountains  of  the  Black  canon, 
receives  in  its  bosom  the  Gila,  or  Swiftwaters  of  Arizona.  Freighted  with  the 
red  and  golden  sands  of  a  great  interior  wilderness,  where  the  Apache  and  the 
Navajo  and  kindred  tribes  of  wild  men  still  roam,  it  sweeps  onward  till  lost  in 
the  seething  waters  of  the  Gulf  of  California. 

What  a  magnificent  point  of  ol)sei'vation  for  the  prophetic  eye  of  a  poet. 
Looking  to  the  east  or  to  the  west  the  new  world,  with  its  various  races  of  inhabi- 
tants, its  scenery,  its  commerce,  its  future,  ligs  before  him.  Starting  at  this  little 
group  of  springs,  he  could  write  a  thousand  volumes  and  leave  "  ample  room  and 
verge  enough"  for  a  thousand  more,  on  the  great  futm-e  of  this  vast  continent, 
where  "  no  pent  up  Utica  contracts  our  powers." 

But  the  operators  are  generally  practical  men.  In  seasons  of  great  severity 
they  sometimes  run  short  of  food,  and  then  they  have  a  hard  time.  It  becomes 
a  simple  question  of  life  or  death;  starvation  staring  them  in  the  face,  and  noth- 
ing around  them  but  cheerless  wastes  of  snow.  To  such  perfection,  however, 
have  the  company  reached  their  system  of  operations  at  the  present  day,  that 
instances  of  prolonged  suffering  rarely  occur.  The  stations  are  supplied  with 
abundant  provisions  for  the  winter,  and  with  all  the  apparatus  necessary  for 
repairing  the  line.  It  is  only  in  cases  of  Indian  depredations  or  some  casualty 
against  which  no  human  ingenuity  can  provide,  that  the  em])loyes  can  sutler  for 
the  means  of  subsistence.  As  a  rule  they  are  comfortably  lodged  in  stockades 
or  block-houses,  well  armed  with  rifles  and  revolvers,  provided  with  horses  for 
travelling  to  and  fro  along  the  line ;  and  a  Avagon  at  each  repair  station  to  cany 
poles,  wire,  and  implements,  so  that  they  are  not  so  badly  off  as  might  be  sup- 
posed. Isolation  from  the  society  of  their  fellow-beings  is  the  most  unpleasant 
feature  in  their  calling;  but  even  that  has  its  advantages.  Tliey  have  abundant 
time  for  study  and  reflection,  and  can  save  a  good  part  of  their  wages. 

On  the  approach  to  the  summit  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  it  becomes  necessary 
to  increase  the  number  of  stations  in  consequence  of  the  frequent  interniptions  to 
which  the  line  is  subject  from  falling  timber,  snow-stonns  and  other  causes. 
During  the  winter  and  spring  months  the  storms  are  often  so  violent  as  to  break 
down  the  poles  for  miles;  and  when  the  snows  melt,  floods  and  freshets  are  a 
prolific  source  of  trouble.  Even  the  (by  season  gives  battle  in  the  shape  of 
extensive  fires  which  sometiuies  rage  through  the  forest,  for  weeks  at  a  time, 
consuming  all  before  them.  In  addition  to  these  natural  ui)stacles,  which  are 
formidable  enough  in  themselves,  the  cupidity  of  man  is  too  often  cast  in  the 
balance  against  legitimate  enter}u-ise.  Many  apparent  accidents  to  the  line  have 
been  ingeniously  contrived  by  speculators  in  Washoe  stocks,  for  the  purpose  of 
gaining  some  dishonest  advantage.  Fortunately  the  sagacity  and  energy  of 
tiie  Tek^graph  Conqiany  have  nearly  precluded  the  possibility  of  cutting  off 
communication  for  a  sulhcient  length  of  time  to  aflford  facilities  of  this  kind.  It 
is  their  interest  as  well  as  their  duty  to  ])reserve  uninterrupted  connnunication 
for  the  benefit  of  the  public  at  large.  With  this  view,  stations  are  established 
at  intervals  of  8  or  10  miles  all  across  the  Sierras.  One  or  two  men  are  placed 
at  each  of  these  stations,  with  horses  ready  to  go  ottt  at  any  time  on  either  side 
In  winter,  during  severe  snow-storms,  these  horses  are  saddled  ready  fo*r  use,  so 
that  the  employes  whose  duly  it  is  to  repair  the  lino  can  proceed  to  the  break 
without  delay.  When  the  difficulty  is  too  great  to  be  immediately  remedied  by 
connection  of  the  wires,  the  despatches  axe  carried  to  the  first  station  beyond,  and 
there  repeatetl  for  transmission  to  their  point  of  destination.     It  sometimes  hap- 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS  439 

]H'iis,  (luring  soastms  dT  cxtraorcliiiarv  severity,  that  the  line  is  bmlien  down  20  or 
30  times  in  v,  single  day  and  at  as  many  diilerent  points.  This  is  a  husy  time 
for  tlie  operators.  They  ninst  be  eonstantly  on  the  alert,  availing  themselves  of 
every  possible  resomre  that  ingennity  ean  devise.  It  is  not  merely  a  mecliani- 
eal  oiliee,  as  many  sn])[)ose.  Not  only  lunst  the  operator  bo  skilled  in  the  Ordi- 
nary details  of  his  profession,  but  he  must  have  Hie  head  to  devise,  and  the  hand 
to  execute  in  the  various  unforeseen  difficulties  which  are  constaiitl}'  occurring. 
He  must  be  able  to  act  as  well  as  direct — to  repair  by  extraijrdiiiary  where  ordi- 
nary means  arc  not  at  hand.  "With  such  men  feats  arc  perfonned  almost  every  day 
during  the  winter  of  which  the  i)ublic  have  but  little  conception.  A  citizen  of 
San  Francisco  telegraphs  to  his  coiTespondent  in  Virginia  City.  In  six  hours, 
let  us  say,  he  receives  a  response,  ''llow  is  this,"  he  exclaims,  "allowing  full 
time  each  way  for  transmission,  delivery,  and  probable  delay,  1  should  have  had 
this  answer  at  least  four  hours  agof  He  is  dissatisfied  with  the  tardiness  of 
electricity,  or  the  operators,  or  both.  He  does  not  know,  and  probably  would 
mit  believe  it  if  told,  that  his  message  passed  through  ten  or  a  dozen  breaks  on  the 
line;  that  it  was  canied  over  several  gaps  on  horseback,  through  raging  floods, 
or  blinding  snow-storms ;  that  dangers  were  encountered  and  hardships  experi- 
enced in  its  transmission  from  which  most  men  woidd  shrink,  unless  they  found 
their  com]U'nsation  in  something  beyond  a  monthly  salar}^ 

The  falling  of  trees  across  the  line  is  a  source  of  great  inconvenience  in  densely 
wooded  countries.  Although  the  wire  is  not  always  l>roken,  the  insulation  is  apt 
to  be  destroyed  or  affected,  and  thus  communication  cut  off  or  rendered  imper- 
fect. ^Micre  the  poles  are  far  apart  and  the  wires  slack,  several  trees  may  lie 
across  the  line  within  a  distance  of  eight  or  ten  miles  and  still  not  break  the  wire. 
In  these  cases  it  becomes  as  tense  as  a  piano  string  and  gives  forth  a  nmsical 
answer  to  the  slightest  vibration.  The  repairer  iisually  exercises  his  discretion 
in  adopting  one  of  the  two  alternatives  left,  either  to  cut  the  Avire  or  the  tree. 
Mr.  ShafFner  mentions  the  case  of  an  employe — an  Irishman,  it  is  presumed — 
who  stood  over  the  wire  while  he  cut  a  tree  that  lay  across  it.  Relieved  of  the 
pressure  that  bore  it  down,  the  wire  suddenly  righted  itself,  tosshig  the  man 
about  10  feet  in  the  air.  His  astonishment  may  be  imagined,  but  scarcely 
described. 

The  construction  of  the  overland  telegraph,  under  difficulties  so  numerous 
and  so  formidal)le,  was  one  of  the  great  triumphs  of  the  present  age.  When 
we  consider  the  vast  extent  of  desert  country  traversed,  the  scarcity  of  material, 
the  vicissitudes  of  the  climate,  and  the  hostile  character  of  the  Indian  tribes 
iidiabiting  the  wild  regions  through  which  it  was  necessary  to  pass,  the  consum- 
mation of  this  enterprise  is  an  event  of  which  the  American  people  may  be 
justly  proud.  No  achievement  of  ancient  or  modem  times  surpasses  it  in  the 
magnitude  of  the  interests  involved  both  to  commerce  and  to  civilization.  It 
■was  the  first  grand  practicalde  demonstration  of  the  feasibility  of  a  system  by 
which  the  remotest  parts  of  the  earth  may  l)e  brought  into  direct  and  instanta- 
neous comnmnication,  and  thus  the  l)Onds  of  sympathy  and  interest  strengthened 
between  the  various  races  of  maidiind. 

In  anticipation  of  the  dilficulties  likely  to  arise  between  the  Company  and 
the  jjublic  without  an  explicit  understanding  of  the  relations  existing  l)ctween 
them,  Mr.  Caq)entier,  while  acting  as  president,  devoted  special  attention  to  the 
foiTnaticm  of  a  code  of  laws  and  regulations  by  which  they  should  be  nmtually 
governed  and  the  interests  of  each  protected.  Among  the  laws  devised  by  him 
and  })assed  by  the  legislature  of  California,  the  most  important,  and  that  which 
most  intimately  concenis  the  public,  is  the  act  of  April  18,  1SG2.  This  act 
introduces  a  new  feature  in  the  business  of  telegraphing,  a  feature  not  only 
novel  in  its  conception  and  application,  but  of  incalculable  importance  to  the 
civilized  world — tlie  legalization  of  messages  transmitted  by  telegraph  in  their 
relation  to  instrimients  and  acts  of  law. 


440  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

Appropriate  pro\'ision  is  made  to  secure  the  public  against  dislionesty  and 
fraud  on  the  part  of  the  operators  and  other  employes.  Penalties  are  imposed 
for  divulging  the  contents  of  messages,  changing  the  sense  or  meaning,  know- 
ingl}'  sending  false  or  forged  messages,  appropriating  infoiination  to  private 
uses,  wilfull}'  neglecting  to  send  messages,  or  postponing  or  sending  them  out 
of  order.  Also,  against  fraud  by  any  person  whatsoever  who  may  open  seals  of 
messages  addressed  to  any  other  person,  read  despatches  by  means  of  any  machine 
or  contrivance,  bribe  telegraph  operators  to  di\"ulge  the  contents  of  messages, 
damage  the  line,  or  otherwise  attempt  to  cut  off  communication.  But  the  great 
feature  of  the  law  k  that  contracts  by  telegraph  are  deemed  to  be  contracts  in 
writing,  and  the  signatures  thereto  are  valid  in  law.  Notice  by  telegraph  is 
actual  notice.  Power  of  attorney  or  other  instnmient  in  writing,  duly  acknow- 
ledged and  certified  so  as  to  be  entitled  to  record,  may,  together  with  certificate 
of  acknowledgment,  be  sent  by  telegraph,  and  the  telegraphic  copy  or  duplicate 
\\ii^  prima  facie  the  same  effect  in  all  respects  as  the  original.  Checks,  due  bills, 
promissory  notes,  bills  of  exchange,  and  all  orders  and  agreements  for  payment 
or  delivery  of  money  or  other  thing  of  value  may  be  made  or  drawn  by  tele- 
graph, with  full  force  and  effect  as  if  written.  Persons  indicted  on  oath  for,  or 
accused  of,  any  public  offence,  may  be  arrested  and  imprisoned  upon  wan-ant 
issued  by  any  competent  officer,  properly  indorsed  and  dii-ected  to  such  officer 
as  ma}^  be  legall}^  authorized  to  make  the  an-est.  Writs  or  orders  in  civil  suits 
or  proceedings  may  also  be  transmitted  in  the  same  waj^  All  these  pro^^sions 
are  carefully  guarded  so  as  to  avoid  any  infringement  upon  individual  rights, 
while  they  tend  materially  to  promote  the  public  convenience  and  welfare. 

A  novel  feature  in  this  law  is  that  the  marriage  ceremony  may  be  performed 
without  regard  to  distance. 

Upon  the  passage  of  this  important  act  by  the  California  legislatm'e,  Mr.  Car- 
pentier  proceeded  to  secure  the  passage  of  similar  acts  in  the  neighboring  States 
and  Territories.  On  the  17th  of  October,  1862,  the  legislature  of  Oregon  passed 
an  act  embracing  substantially  the  provisions  of  the  law  of  California ;  this  was 
followed  by  a  similar  act  of  the  territorial  assembly  of  Utah,  passed  January  16, 
1863.  As  the  State  of  California,  always  in  the  lead,  was  the  first  to  make  a 
]*racticable  movement  towards  the  constmction  of  the  Pacific  raikoad,  the  over- 
land mail  route,  and  the  overland  telegraph,  so  it  has  been  the  fii'st  to  introduce 
this  imporant  featm-e  in  the  laws  governing  the  telegraph  system.  None  of  the 
Atlantic  States,  I  believe,  have  yet  adopted  it,  but  they  will  doubtless  come  to 
it  in  time. 

A  very  general  misapprehension  prevails  in  the  Atlantic  States  in  reference 
to  the  frequent  eiTors  and  intcnuptions  which  have  attended  the  working  of  the 
overland  telegraph  since  it  went  into  operation.  The  inconvenience  to  which 
the  public  have  been  subjected  has  been  patiently  borne,  until  patience  has  almost 
ceased  to  be  a  virtue.  The  facts  of  the  case  are  that  east  of  Salt  lake,  within 
the  past  fovu-  years,  Indian  disturbances  have  been  a  prolific  source  of  trouble. 
Tlie  stations  have  been  attacked,  the  line  broken  down,  the  operators  murdered, 
and  all  C(.)mmunication  cut  off,  day  after  day,  week  after  week,  yet  California  is 
compelled  to  bear  a  share  of  the  blame.  Without  attempting  to  cast  any  cen- 
sure u})on  the  eastern  division,  Avhich  doubtless  has  done  all  in  its  power  to  pro- 
vent  tliese  interruptions,  it  has  been  the  good  fortune  of  the  California  divison, 
Avitli  the  exception  of  a  single  outbreak  at  Iluby  valley  in  1864,  to  have  had  no 
difficulty  with  the  Indians. 

A  marked  difference  exists  between  the  character  of  the  Indian  tribes  east 
and  west  of  Salt  lake.  The  Arrapahoes,  Navajos,  Apaches,  and  Sioux  are 
powerful,  mischievous,  and  warlike;  the  Shoshones,  Bannocks,  Pi-Utes,  and 
other  western  tribes  are  poor  and  less  able  to  cope  with  the  whites.  I  refer  to 
the  fact  as  showing  a  prolific  cause  of  failm-e  on  the  eastern  side  to  which  the 
western  division  is  not  subject. 


WEST   OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


441 


111  reference  t*^>  tlie  operations  of  the  division  between  Suit  Lake  Cit}'  ami 
San  Franeiseo,  there  is  not,  I  believe,  a  line  of  e(iual  leiii^tli  in  any  i)art  of  the 
world  upon  whieh  so  tew  errors  or  interruptions  have  occuiTed.  The  system  of 
checks  adojited  is  so  rii^'id  that  it  is  scarcely  ])ossiblo  for  an  eiTor  to  pass  throui^h 
the  office  at  8an  Francisco.  When  there  is  doubt  in  rei^ard  to  a  word  the  oper- 
ator causes  it  to  be  repeated  from  the  Salt  Lake  ollicc ;  if  still  the  same  and 
evidently  an  error,  he  causes  it  to  be  repeated  back  from  the  olHcc  in  the  Atlan- 
tic States  where  it  oriii-inated.  In  the  vast  number  of  messages  transmitted 
between  Salt  lake  and  San  Francisco  nearly  every  error  that  occiu'red  has  been 
ti'aced  back  to  the  other  side. 

The  greatest  trouble  hitherto  in  the  working  of  the  California  division  has 
been  experienced  in  the  Sierra  Nevada  mountains.  This  is  now  almost  entirely 
obviate(i.  I'he  company  have  constructed  four  separate  and  distinct  lines  from 
Sacramento  to  Carson  :  one  by  the  Dutch  Flat  route  and  three  \'ia  Placerville, 
each  of  which  is  in  full  operation.  It  is  scarcely  possible  for  any  combination 
of  circumstances  to  result  in  the  inteiTuption  of  communication  upon  all  these 
lines  at  the  same  time. 

A  new  and  substantial  line  has  been  built  between  San  Francisco  and  Omaha, 
following  the  travelled  stage  route,  making  the  second  line  across  the  continent. 
This  was  commenced  as  an  opposition  line  by  the  United  States  Telegraph 
Company,  but  after  completion  between  San  Francisco  and  Salt  lake,  was  pur- 
chased and  finished  from  Salt  lake  to  Omaha  by  the  Western  Union  Telegi'aph 
Cumpanv. 

The  Western  Union  Telegraph  Company,  having  pm'chased  a  controlling 
interest  in  the  California  Overland  Telegraph  Comiianj'  lines,  in  June  last  took 
a  lease  of  the  lines  of  that  compan}'^,  and  all  are  now  worked  under  the  name 
of  the  foniicr  company  as  their  Pacific  division.  The  lines  of  this  division  con- 
stitute all  the  wires  west  of  Salt  lake,  from  Los  Angeles  to  a  point  in  British 
Columbia  7.50  miles  north  of  New  Westminster,  on  Frazer  river.  This  extends 
to  near  the  boundary  line  of  oiu"  Russian  jiossessions. 

A  new  line  has  been  constructed  by  the  Western  Union  Company  from  Salt 
Lake  to  Helena,  in  ilontana,  via  Virginia  City,  Montana,  between  500  and  600 
miles  in  length. 

Brighain  Young  has  built  a  line  some  400  miles  in  length,  counocting  the 
northern  and  southern  settlements  of  the  Mormons  in  Utah. 


Telegraphic  Connections — Table  of  distances. 


Miles. 

San  Francisco  to  San  Mateo 20 

San  Mateo  to  Rcclwoo J 8 

Eedwood  to  Sauta  Clara 21 

Santa  Clara  to  San  Jose 3 

San  Jose  to  Ccntrcville IG 

Ceutreville  to  San  Leandro IS 

San  Leandro  to  Oakland 8 

Oakland  to  Martinez 24 

Martinez  to  IJenicia 4 

Benicia  to  Suisiin 22 

Suisun  to  Sacramento 45 

Sacramento  to  Nicolaus 2(5 

Nicolaus  to  Marysville 10 

Marysville  to  Tiinbnctoo 17 

Tluibuctoo  to  Grass  Valley 19 

Grass  Valley  to  Nevada 4 

Nevada  to  North  San  Jnan 18 

North  San  Juan  to  Cauiptonville 8 

Camptonvillc  to  Forest  City 26 

Forest  City  to  Downieville 8 


Miles. 

Marysville  to  Oriville 28 

Oriville  to  Chico 2G 

Cbico  to  Tehama ; 20 

Tehama  to  Rod  Bluflfs 12 

Red  HlutTs  to  Shasta 40 

Shasta  to  Trinity  Centre 45 

Trinity  Centre  to  Callalians 2r» 

Cnllahans  to  Rough  and  Ready 11 

Roufi^h  and  Ready  to  Fort  Jones 11 

Fort  Jones  to  Yreka 18 

Yreka  to  Mountain  House 40 

Mountain  House  to  Jacksonvillo 22 

Jacksonville  to  Grave  Creek "54  | 

Grave  Creek  to  Cnnonville 'J4 

Cauonville  to  Koseburp 27 

Roseburf^  to  Oakland,  O 18 

Oakland  to  Eugene  City 58 

Eugene  City  to  Corvallis 40 

Corvallis  to  Albany '0 

Albany  to  Salem 24 


442 


RESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITOEIES 


TaUe  of  distances — Continued. 


Miles. 

Salem  to  Oref^on  City 38 

Oregon  City  to  Portland 13 

Portland  to  Yancouvers 7 

Vancouvers  to  Monticello.- 40 

Monticello  to  Drews 30 

Drews  to  Olympia 5-2 

Olympia  to  Stellacoom 22 

Steilacoom  to  Seattle GO 

Seattle  to  Pt.  Elliot 35 

Pt.  Elliot  toTualalup 17 

Tualahip  to  Swinomish 35 

Swiiiomisli  to  Sehomc 37 

Sehome  to  Semiahnoa 28 

Semialinoa  to  Xew  Westminster 25 

Sacramento  to  Folsom 22 

Folsoni  to  Latrobe 17 

Latrobe  to  Shiug-le  Sprinj^s 8 

Shinj^le  Springs  to  El  Dorado 5 

El  Dorado  to  Placerville ti 

Placerville  to  Sportsman's  Hall 12 

Sportsman's  to  Sii^ar  Loaf 22 

Sugar  Loaf  to  Strawberry 12 

Strawberry  to  Yanks 13 

Yank's  Station  to  Fridays 12 

Fridays  to  Genoa 12 

Genoa  to  Carson 16 

Carson  to  Dayton 

Dayton  to  Silver  City 5 

Virginia  to  Williamsburg 131 

Williamsburg  to  Unionvillo    14 

Uuionville  to  Star  City 12 

Yank's  Station  to  Glenbrook 17 

Gleubrook  to  Carson 14 

Carson  to  Opbir ]  3 

Ophir  to  Washoe 3 

Washoe  to  Virginia 12 

Genoa  to  Wellington's 40 

Wellington's  to  Aurora 50 

Genoa  to  Markleeville 24 

Markleeville  to  Monitor 7 

Monitor  to  Silver  Mountain 7 

San  Jos6  to  Warm  Springs 14 

Warm  Springs  to  Stockton 5() 

Stockton  to  Sacramento 45 

San  Francisco  to  Fort  Point 5 

Fort  I'oint  to  San  Kafai'l 21 

San  Kafacl  to  Pctalunia 24 

Petaluina  to  Sonoma 12 

Sonoma  to  Napa 12 

Napa  to  Suisuu 20 

Sacramento  to  Newcastle 32 

Nmvcastle  to  Auburn 4 

Auburn  to  Colfax 19 

Colfax  to  Grass  Yalloy 11 

Grass  Valley  to  Nevada 4 


Miles. 

Nevada  to  Dutch  Flat iQ 

Dutch  Flat  to  Donnor  Lake 40 

Donnor  Lake  to  Steamboat  Springs 46 

Steamboat  to  Virginia 12 

Petaluma  to  Santa  Rosa 17 

Santg,  Rosa  to  Healdsburg 15 

Benicia  to  Vallejo 7 

Vallejo  to  Napa 16 

Napa  to  Calistoga 26 

Sacramento. to  Auburn 36 

Auburn  to  Coloma 14 

Coloma  to  Placerville 9 

Coloma  to  Georgetown 9 

GeorgetoAvn  to  Todd's  Valley 8 

Todd's  Valley  to  Forest  Hill 3 

Forest  Hill  to  Yankee  Jim's 3 

Yankee  Jim's  to  Iowa  Hill 10 

Iowa  Hill  to  Dutch  Flat 10 

San  Andreas  to  Coppcropolis 15 

Folsom  to  Latrobe 14 

Latrobe  to  Dry  town 14 

Dry  town  to  Sutter's  Creek 5 

Sutter's  Creek  to  Jackson 3 

Jackson  to  Mokolumne  Hill 5 

Mokolumne  Hill  to  San  Andreas 9 

San  Andreas  to  Murphy's 16 

Murphy's  to  Columbia 12 

Columbia  to  Sonora 7 

San  Jose  to  Gilroy 30 

Gilroy  to  San  Juan,  S 12 

San  Juan,  S.,  to  Kingston 130 

Kingston  to  Visalia 25 

Visali  a  to  Fort  Tcjon ". 125 

Fort  Tcjon  to  Los  Angeles 110 

San  Juan,  south,  to  Watsouville 

Watson ville  to  Santa  Cruz 

Santa  Cruz  to  Monterey 

OVERLAND. 

Carson  to  Dayton 13 

Davton  to  Fort  Churchill 22 

Fort  Churchill  to  West  Gate 69 

West  Gate  to  Austin 69 

Austin  to  Grubb's  Wells 51 

Grubb's  Wells  to  Ruby  Valley 62 

Ruby  Valley  to  Egan 42 

Egan  to  Deep  Creek 74 

Deep  Creek  to  Fish  Springs 52 

Fish  Springs  to  Fort  Crittenden 99 

Fort  Crittenden  to  Salt  Lake 42 

Swinomish  to  Fidalgo  island 15 

Fidalgo  island  to  San  Juan  island 12 

San  Juan  island  to  Victoria,  V.  I ~0 


WEST    OF    THE    IJOCKY   MOUNTAINS.  443 

ARIZONA. 

SECTIOX   I. 

GENERAL  FEATURES  OF  THE  COUNTRY. 

To  1)0  iiiiderstood  niul  u})preciatt'il,  Arizona  iinist  l)c  taken  as  a  ^vll()lc.  Those 
who  know  it  only  as  ''the  Gadsden  })ni'chase/'  those  who  have  no  knowledi^'e  of 
more  tlian  the  Cohjrado  river  distri(;t,  or  who  are  only  familiar  with  the  central 
and  northern  rei^'ions,  cannot  form  a  correct  idea  of  its  resom-ces  and  capahilities. 

Tlie  general  lines  of  the  Ten'itory  arc  thus  defined  in  the  organic  act  ajiprovod 
February  24,  1SG3  : 

All  thnt  part  of  tlip  present  Territory  of  New  Mexico  situate  west  of  a  line  rnniuDg  duo 
south  iVoiii  tbo  point  where  the  southwest  corner  of  the  Territory  of  Colorado  joins  tlie 
nortiieru  bomidary  of  the  Territory  of  New  Mexico  to  the  southern  boundary  line  of  said 
Territory  of  New  Mexico. 

In  other  W(n-ds,  all  of  New  Mexico,  as  fomnndy  existing,  between  the  109th 
degree  of  longitude  and  the  California  line,  embracing  120,912  square  miles,  or 
77,;i83,GS0  acres,  a  district  three  times  as  large  as  the  State  of  New  York. 

The  mountain  I'anges  are  a  prolongation  of  those  which,  southward  in  Sonera, 
Chihuahua,  and  ]  )nrango,  have  yielded  large  quantities  of  the  precious  ore,  and 
which,  northward  in  Nevada,  are  attracting  the  attention  of  the  world  with  their 
wealth.  The  general  direction  of  the  mountains  and  quartz  veins  is  northwest 
and  southea.st,  and  there  are  numerous  parallel  ranges  which  form  long  valleys 
in  the  same  direction. 

The  Temtory  is  divided  into  many  mining  distiicts,  but  as  these  are  liable  to 
be  changed  at  any  time,  the  mineral  regions  will  be  detined  under  three  gTand 
natural  divisions,  vii^  ^'  Southern  Arizona,"  ''The  Colorado  River,"  and  "Cen- 
tral Arizona,"  referring  'within  these  districts  to  the  various  streams  upon  which, 
or  near  to  which,  the  placers  or  lodes  are  located,  as  atlbrding  the  most  definite 
description  for  permanent  reference  that  can  be  given. 


SECTION    II. 

SOUTHERN    ARIZONA. 

This  part  of  Arizona,  known  as  the  Gadsden  pnix-hase,  was  tlic  earliest 
occupied  by  the  Americans,  and  is  still  the  best  known.  Until  the  ))eginning 
of  the  war  it  was  the  favorite  overland  mail  route  to  the  Pacific,  and  it  Is  still 
crmsidered  tlie  easiest  stage  route  across  the  continent.  Its  mountains  are  nearly 
all  mineral-bearing,  and  silver  lodes  near  to  the  Simora  lino  have  been  to  some 
extent  worked. 

I'he  princijial  towns  of  southern  Arizona  are  Tucson,  on  the  line  of  the  over- 
land mail  route,  and  Tid)ac,  52  miles  south.  Both  have  l(»ng  been  in  existence, 
and  are  situated  upon  the  Santa  Cmz  river,  ■\^•hich,  rising  in  Sonora,  nnis  nearly 
directly  north  until  it  roaches  the  Gila  river,  near  the  Maricopa  wells.  The  dis- 
.  lances  frotn  Tuliac,  which  may  be  considered  in  the  heart  of  the  mineral  region 
V^.f  southeiTi  Arizona,  arc,  by  the  usually  travelled  roads,  as  follows:  San  Fran- 
cisco, 1,074  miles;  San  Diego,  510  miles;  Fort  Yuma,  330  miles;  El  Paso, 
389  miles;  St.  Louis,  1,770  miles.  Towns  in  Scmora,  Mexico — Santa  Cmz, 
54  miles  ;  Magdalena,  51  miles;  Altar,  95  iniles;  Ilennossillo,  capital  of  Sonora, 
229  miles;  Guaymas,  port  of  entry  of  Sonora,  329  miles;  Libcrtad,  ou  the  Gulf 
of  California,  ISO  miles. 


444  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

The  ores  of  silver  found  in  soutLcni  Arizona  are  argentiferous  galena,  native 
silver,  auriferous  sulpliuret  of  silver,  Llaek  sulpliuret  of  silver,  sulphate  of  silver, 
sulphate  of  iron  coniLined.  The  gangue  is  usually  quaitz  or  feldspar.  The 
ores  of  copper  are  \isuaily  the  sul})hurets,  principally  gray. 

Nearly  all  the  silver  and  copper  lodes  show  traces  of  gold,  and  placers  have 
been  found  at  many  points,  but  have  not  proved  sufficiently  extensive  to  attract 
much  attention. 

While,  owing  to  Indian  disturbances  and  the  consequent  high  prices,  and  other 
serious  impediments  to  mining  operations,  most  of  the  lodes  in  southern  Arizona 
ai'e  now  temporarily  abandoned,  no  one  familiar  with  them  doubts  that  some  of 
them  are  valuable,  and  must  eventually  be  worked  with  profit. 

The  CoLOitADO  Mine. — This  mine,  otherwise  knowna  as  the  Heintzelman, 
(in  honor  of  General  Heintzelman,  United  States  army,  who  was  among  the  first 
of  the  American  owners,)  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  Cen-o  Colorado 
mountain,  about  22  miles  west  of  Tubac  by  way  of  Sopori,  and  eight  miles 
north  of  Arivaca.  The  lode  runs  nearly  north  and  south,  and  may  average  22 
inches  in  thickness.  It  is  about  2,000  feet  in  length,  and  is  distinct  and  separate 
from  the  porphj-ry  rock  on  both  sides.  ^Ir.  Sam.  F.  Butterworth,  wIk),  on  behalf 
of  the  owners  in  New  York,  examined  the  mine  in  the  winter  of  1863-64, 
reported  as  follows : 

-  The  principal  ore  in  the  depth  is  silver-copper  glance — containing  an  average  of  six  per 
■cent,  of  silver ;  this  is  accompanied  by  argentiferous  gray  copper  ore,  which  averages  two 
per  cent,  of  silver.  These  minerals  are  very  unequally  distributed  through  the  quartz  ;  their 
presence  in  greater  or  less  quantity  determines  the  value  of  the  ore  ;  at  the  present  level  they 
constitute  about  seven  per  cent,  of  the  ore  fit  for  reduction,  making  its  value  about  §1'20  per 
ton  ;  at  a  higher  level  the  ore  contained  fully  30  per  cent,  of  these  minerals. 

Guido  Kiistel,  who  reported  upon  the  property  at  the  same  time,  says: 

The  main  shaft,  6  feet  by  12,  well  timbered,  and  furnished  with  substantial  ladders,  is  placed 
on  the  east  side  of  the  lode,  which  pitching  east,  changes  the  inclination  in  the  deph,  so  that  the 
shaft,  which  was  calculated  to  strike  the  lode  at  160  feet  below  the  surface,  may  not  reach  it 
before  4U0  or  500  feet  depth.  The  distance  from  the  shaft  to  the  vein,  below  the  present  work, 
is  less  than  (50  feet. 

There  ai'o  other  shafts,  and  some  tunnelling  and  drifting,  and  the  depth  of  actual 
working  is  about  120  feet.     Mr.  Kiistel  further  says : 

The  characteristic  feature  of  this  mine  is  the  rich  ore  which  shows  everywhere.  The  prin- 
cipal ore  in  the  depth  is  silver-copper  glance,  containing  from  2  to  10  per  cent,  of  silver, 
accompanied  by  argentiferous  gray-copper  ore,  with  from  one  to  three  per  cent,  of  silver.  On 
the  more  or  less  abundant  appearance  of  these  two  minerals  in  the  quartz,  the  richness  of  the 
■ore  chiefly  depends.  The  distribution  in  the  quartz  is  very  unequal,  sometimes  in  small  par- 
ticles, and  sometimes  more  massive.  This  last,  representing  the  first  class,  when  selected 
was  formerly  obtained  ;  about  30  per  c«nt.  of  the  whole  mass  of  ore  is  fit  for  redaction ;  but 
•at  the  present  level  only  five  to  eight  per  c«nt.,  so  that  over  the  average  of  the  ore  cannot  be 
estimated  much  over  $lt)0  per  ton.  This  estimation  refers  to  the  vicinity  of  the  main  shaft 
for  about  200  feet  in  length.  North  and  south  of  this  part,  the  quartz  prevails,  making  the 
ore  poorer. 

Near  the  Cerro  Colorado  mine,  and  upon  the  same  pro2')erty,  are  other  promising 
lodes.     Mr.  Kiistel  refers  to  one  of  them : 

In  Arivaca,  a  few  hundred  yards  east  from  the  lead  mine,  a  quartz  lode,  "  Mina  Blanca," 
is  found,  (discovered  long  ago,)  in  which  rich  silver  ore  occurs.  This  vein  was  opened  only 
about  nine  feet  deep,  and  never  further  prospected.  Mr.  Higgings  is  informed  of  this  mine. 
It  is  very  probable  that  more  good  veins  will  be  discovered  yet  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
■Colorado  mine,  such  as  do  not  crop  out.  Till  now  not  much  attention  has  been  paid  to  this 
kind  of  prospecting.  Tlie  best  mines  in  Santa  Rita  arc  those  lately  discovered,  of  which 
no  outcropping  was  to  be  seen.     This  was  also  the  case  with  the  Heintzelman  lode. 

Regarding  wood,  water,  and  the  process  for  working  the  ores,  he  says  : 

For  about  20  miles  round  Cerro  Colorado  there  is  very  little  wood,  but  sufficient  to  supply 
ft  limited  steam  engine  for  hoisting  the  ore.  Water  is  also  scarce.  The  shaft  at  100  feet 
depth  gave  as  much  water  "as  was  required  for  about  100  men  and  animals. 


WEST   OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS,.  445 

If  tlip  snnip  quality  of  ore  bo  foiiiitl  Jeepor  in  tlio  Colorado  niino,  ami  (his  doubtless  will  bo 
the  case,  the  aiiialpaiiiation  in  pans  by  way  of  roustinjj  cannot  be  rcconiuiendcd  on  account 
of  the  copper  winch  would  enter  the  ainalfyani  to  from  (iOO  to  80(1  per  cent.  The  snieltin{!^  of 
the  lirst-cluss  ore  cannot  be  introduced  for  waut  of  lead  ores.  The  ricliest  ore  was  melted 
formerly  with  from  'JOO  to  MOO  per  cent,  of  lead  oro.  It  was  procured  from  the  lead  mine  iu 
Arivaca.  This  mine,  however,  did  not  yield  as  much  ore  as  reciuired.  Homo  load  ore  was 
obtained  from  the  Patapfonia  mine,  under  conditious  that  ."-5  per  cent,  of  the  silver  contaiued 
in  tlio  lead  ore  had  to  be  returned  to  the. 'Patap;onia  mine  free  of  cost. 

In  rog,'ard  to  the  scarcity  of  wood  or  fuel  generally,  whatever  location  may  bo  selected,  it 
appears  tliat  for  the  Colorado  ores  and  circumstances,  two  methods  of  reduction  sliould  be 
adopted  :   First,  amalgamation  iu  barrels ;  aud  second,  amalgamation  by  patio. 

The  iullowing  is  a  report  made  to  the  Sonora  Exploring  and  Mining  Company 
regarding  the  Ccrro  Colorado  mine  in  18G1,  by  Colonel  Talcott: 

Ixcport  showing  the  quaniitij  and  value  of  silver  ore  yielded  In/  the  Ilcinlzehnan 
mine,  how  disjiosed  of,  and  where  tJiat  on  hand  is  situated  on  the  1st  of  July, 
ISGO. 

Poundf. 

Sold  and  taken  by  purchasers  to  Sonora 3,880 

Seut  by  the  company  to  San  Francisco 44,  037 

Sent  by  the  company  to  Cincinnati 1, 400 

Smelted  by  the  company 18,991 

Keduced  by  amalgamation  at  the  Arivaca  works  of  the  company 586, 700 

Total  sold  and  reduced 65.5, 008 

Eemaining  at  Cerfp  Colorado - I'iy,  .500 

On  hand  at  Arivaca 443,  700 

Total  ore  on  hand 573, 200 

Total  product  of  the  mine ],  228, 208 

Tlie  655,  008  pounds  sold  and  reduced  yielded  tbo  company $45,010  28 

Allow  for  pre  on  hand  $90  per  ton 25,794  00 

Value  of  ore  raised - 7(»,  804  28 


General  Heintzelman  stated  in  a  letter  from  the  mine,  dated  1858,  that  all  the 
ore  smelted  to  that  date  yielded  $920  })er  ton.  Herman  Ehrenherg,  civil  and 
mining  engineer,  ^VTote  from  TuVtac  in  1859  that  75  tons  smelted  or  reduced  in 
various  ways  yielded  841,180  in  silver,  or  an  average  of  $549  per  ton. 

The  Arivaca  ranch,  upon  which  the  Cerro  Colorado  mine  is  situated,  com- 
]>rises  17,000  acres,  and  was  ftunous  in  the  days  of  the  Jesuit  missions.  It  is 
thus  described  in  the  rejiort  of  the  engineer  who  lirst  surveyed  it: 

The  Arivaca  has  much  beautiful  meadow  land,  fine  pasture  on  the  low  surrounding  bills 
for  thousands  of  cattle  ;  live  oak  grows  in  the  gulches,  mosquito  on  the  hills,  and  on  the 
lower  ends  of  the  streams  it  is  thickly  lined  for  live  or  six  miles  with  groves  of  cottonwood, 
ash,  walnut,  and  other  useful  woods  for  farming  and  mining  purposes,  iu  sufficient  quantities 
to  answer  all  demands. 

On  and  near  the  ranch  a  number  of  silver  lodes  have  Leon  taken  up.  Upon 
the  E>u-i<iuetta  some  ex]icnsive  machinery  was  erected  several  years  since,  but 
like  that  upon  the  Heintzelman  mine  it  is  now  idle.  The  lodes-  are  probably 
too  small  U)  be  profitably  worked  tmtil  mining  can  bo  conducted  at  less  exptnise. 

Santa  IIita  Mixes. — These  mines  are  located  in  the  Santa  Rita  mountains, 
some  10  miles  east  of  Tubac,  and  50  miles  south  of  Tucson.  jMr.  Wrightson, 
agent  of  the  company  owning  most  of  them,  thus  referred  to  their  characteristics 
in  a  report  made  in  1859  : 

The  ores  of  the  Santa  Rita  mines  are  suited  to  both  smelting  and  amalgamation.  The  smelting 
ores  are  those  in  which  there  is  a  largo  admixture  of  lead  or  very  rich  sulpliuret  ot  silver  and 
copper.     The  amalgamation  ores  are  those  where  the  salts  of  silver  and  copper  predominate; 


446  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

TLe  Crystal  and  the  Encarnaciou  mines  yield  smeltinf;^  ores.  The  Bustillo.  the  Cazador,  the 
Ojcro,  and  the  Fuller  mines  yield  ores  which  b}'  assortment  can  be  treated  by  both  processes. 
I'he  Salero  yields  amalgamation  ore. 

Raplmcl  Pumpelly,  mining  engineer,  made  an  elaborate  report  in  18G1,  from 
wliicli  the  following  extracts  are  taken  : 

The  veins  of  the  southern  spur  of  the  Santa  Rita  occur  in  a  feldspathic  porphyry,  charac- 
terized by  the  absence  of  quartz,  and  presence  of  hornblende.  They  are  not  isolated  occur- 
rences, but,  as  is  usual  with  true  fissure  veins,  appear  in  groups.  Indeed,  the  entire  ranG;c 
of  hills,  from  the  point  of  the  Salero  mountain  to  the  Santa  Rita  peak,  is  an  extensive  net- 
work of  Iddes.  They  diifer  but  little  in  the  character  of  their  outcrops,  usually  more  or  less 
porous  quartz,  blackened  with  oxide  of  manganesp.,  or  reddened  with  that  of  iron.  Frequently 
frrcen,  blue,  and  yellow  colorings  betray  the  decomposition  products  of  our  ai-gentiferoua 
Ikhl  ores.  There  is  no  reason  for  doubting  that  the  great  mass  of  these  are  silver  leads,  while 
at  the  same  time  there  is  the  weighty  argument  of  analogy  in  favor  of  such  a  supposition. 

The  dilferent  leads  present  a  remarkable  uniformity  of  character.  Having  nearly  all  tho 
same  general  direction,  they  also  possess  the  same  combination  of  minerals.  Many  of  them 
have  been  prospected  by  small  shafts,  but  there  are  hundreds  apparenMy  equally  good  that 
remain  intact. 

Gila  or  Ojera  Vf.tn. — Direction  north  G9°  east,  south  71°  west;  inclination  81°.  More 
work  has  been  accomplished  on  this  than  on  any  other  belonging  to  the  company.  The  old 
Ojero  and  the  Gila  shafts,  two  frontons  at  the  latter,  and  a  small  prospecting  shaft,  have  been 
opened  on  it.  In  the  beginning  of  I860  good  ore  was  discovered  in  the  outcrop,  and  on  exca- 
vating, a  rich  deposit  of  galena  and  fahl  ore  was  found. 

TUK  Salkko  has  a  different  direction  from  any  known  vein  of  the  district.  Its  course  being 
about  north  35°  east,  its  continuation  northeast  must  intersect  that  of  the  Gila.  It  is  well 
defined,  and  presents  every  indication  of  a  good  vein.  It  possesses  a  shaft  09  feet  deep, 
admirably  equiiiped,  and  timbered  in  a  very  substantial  manner. 

The  Crystal  has  a  direction  of  north  85°  east,  and  is  one  of  tlie  best  defined  leads  that 
have  been  opened  upon.  A  shaft  'M  feet  deep  and  '^4  feet  of  fronton  have  been  accomplished. 
The  ore  is  abundant,  and  being  almost  ma.ssive  sulphuret  of  lead,  will  be  of  great  value  in 
smelting.  It  is  associated  with  copper  pyrites  and  zinc  blende.  Although  the  last  named 
mineral  is  an  unwished  for  ingredient,  occasioning  much  trouble  iu  the  furnaces,  still  this 
difiiculty  can  be  to  a  great  extent  overcome  by  a  careful  separation. 

The  low  yield  of  silver  in  the  crystal  undoubtedly  arises  from  the  absence  of  argentiferous 
fahl  ores,  but  I  do  not  doubt  that  these  will  make  their  appearance,  and  v.-ith  them  an  increase 
in  the  amount  of  silver.  Should  the  ore  continue  as  abundant  as  it  is  at  present,  or  should 
there  be  an  increase  in  the  lead  ores  of  other  mines,  it  is  jirobable  that  the  reduction  works 
would  yield  an  excess  of  lead  and  litharge  over  the  amount  needed  for  their  own  use. 

The  Buenaventura  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  leads  belonging  to  the  company.  A 
remarkable  characteristic  of  this  lead  is  the  great  facility  with  whicdi  the  silver  in  its  minerals 
can  be  extracted.  Of  this  the  following  experiments  will  give  an  idea.  A  trial  was  made 
in  the  patio,  and  from  what  I  can  learn,  from  about  40U  pounds  of  average  ore,  20  ounces  of 
silver  were  obtained.  From  another  made  on  good  ore,  (10  pounds,)  1.5  ounce  was  the 
result,  being  at  the  rate  of  336  ounces  to  the  ton. 

The  ores  of  the  Santa  Rita  mines  fall  into  two  classes,  lead  ores  and  fahl  ores,  considering 
them  miueralogically ;  or  into  three,  when  classified  according  to  the  metallurgical  process 
best  suited  to  them  iu  this  country. 

1.  Smelting  ores ;  galena  and  sucli  fahl  ores  as  are  too  rich  in  silver  to  be  subjected  to 
other  jjrocesses. 

2.  Refractory  amalgamation  ores,  containing  a  certain  percentage  of  lead,  and  requiring 
to  be  roasted  before  reduction,  whether  this  be  accomplished  in  the  patio,  the  barrel,  or  the 
salt  process. 

:?.  Ores  containing  rich  fahl  ore,  native  silver,  sulphuret  of  silver,  and  other  simple  or  com- 
plex salts  of  this  metal,  with  little  or  no  lead,  needing  no  roasting  for  the  patio,  and  no  magis- 
tral, or  but  very  little. 

Under  the  first  two  heads  come  the  products  of  all  the  mines  excepting  those  of  tho  Buena- 
ventura and  Mascasa,  which  fall  almost  entirely  into  the  last  division. 

Nearly  all  of  the  ores  will  require  a  mechanical  preparation  before  they  can  be  submitted 
to  the  dilferent  processes.  The  more  massive  lead  and  fahl  ores,  with  a  small  percentage  of 
quartz,  need  simply  a  separation  by  hand.  The  amalgamation  ores  require  crushing  and 
grinding,  and  the  majority  of  the  smelting  ores  demand  both  crushing  and  washing  to  free 
them  from  useless  gangue. 

The  old  ranch  of  Toinacacori,  two  and  a  half  miles  south  of  Tnhac,  is  claimed 
by  the  company  owning  most  of  the  Santa  Rita  mines.  It  was  the  seat  of  a 
Jesuit  missi(ni,  and  tlie  ruins  of  a  sjilendid  clinrch  edifice  are  still  to  be  seen  upon 
it.  Water  for  working  the  mines  is  found  at  tliis  ranch  on  the  Santa  Cruz,  and 
at  one  or  two  points  on  the  Sonoita. 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  447 

Soroiu. — The  rafu'li  of  Supori,  a  noted  property,  lies  sjoutli  of  tlie  miysioii  of 
San  Xavier  tlel  Bae,  nine  miles  south  of  Tucson,  uliere  is  a  costly  church  cdifico 
erected  nearly  a  hundred  years  since,  and  remarkable  for  its  architectural  sym- 
metry and  beauty.  The  Sopori  ranch,  through  which  the  Santa  Cruz  river  runs, 
has  been  thus  ilescribed  : 

Bosiiles  the  liottom  lands  on  the  estate,  wliicli  are  partially  woodetl,  a  large  portion  is  cov- 
ered with  H  dense  forest,  cliietly  niesijiiit  or  locust,  {Alfrarobia  ^randulosa,)  while  along  the 
nuirjjin  of  tiio  river  are  found  cottouwood.  sj-cauiore,  ash,  aud  walnut  trees ;  but  the  uicsfiuit 
is  the  timber /^rtr  cxccllrncc,  on  account  of  the  many  uses  to  whicli  it  may  be  applied. 

In  tile  uiountaius.  on  the  extreme  eastern  portion  ot  the  estate,  is  [lino  timber.  Between 
the  limber  lauds  and  the  mountains  are  lar>j;e  tracts  of  grazing  lands,  unsurpassed  in  the  Ter- 
ritory for  their  excellence.  The  arable  portions,  before  referred  to,  though  limiled,  are  ;idapted 
to  the  cultivatiou  of  wheat,  corn,  barley,  and  other  cereals  ;  and  to  the  fruits  and  vegetables 
of  the  southern  States.  On  the  grazing  lands  innumerable  herds  of  horned  cattle,  iiorses, 
mules,  and  sheep  were  formerly  raised,  when  the  great  haciendas  and  missions  were  in  a 
flourishing  state. 

The  8orORi  Silver  Mixe,  upon  the  ranch  named,  has  been  somewhat 
develoiitM,!  by  a  Xew  England  company.  In  1S59,  Frederick  Brunckow,  geolo- 
gist and  mining  engineer,  made  the  annexed  reply  to  a  letter  of  incpiiry  : 

In  answer  to  your  inquiries  about  the  mine  and  ranch  of  Sopori,  in  the  Territory  of  Arizona, 
I  have  to  say,  that  I  am  familiar  with  said  mine  and  ranch,  from  a  three  years'  residence 
in  the  vicinity  as  chief  engineer  of  the  Sonora  Exploring  and  Mining  Company,  at  Cerro 
Colorado. 

I  have  made  several  assays  of  the  ore  from  the  Sopori  mine  and  found  them  to  yield  from 
10  to  15  marcs  per  cargo.  The  ore  can  be  treated  successfully  by  amalgamation,  with  the 
baiTcl  process.  The  mine  is  well  located,  being  near  wood,  water,  and  grass,  the  three 
necessary  elements  to  its  successful  development. 

There  is  a  small  quantity  of  agricultural  laud  in  the  vicinity,  and  an  immense  range  of 
excellent  pasturage.  On  the  Santa  Cruz  river,  near  by.  great  forests  of  mesquit  timber  pre- 
vail.    The  roads  are  tlie  best  natural  roads  in  the  world. 

There  ma}'  be  other  mines  in  the  vicinity  of  Sopori.  I  have  examined  some  outcrops  in  the 
vicinity,  which  proved  to  be  argentiferous  galena.  Gold  has  been  washed  in  this  vicinity 
during  the  rainy  season,  and  is  to  be  found  in  the  Teuajas  mountains. 

I'ine  timber  for  building  purposes  can  be  obtained  from  the  Santa  Rita  mountains,  on  the 
east  of  the  Santa  Cruz  valley. 

Sopori  is  one  of  the  best  locations  in  Arizona  for  mining,  trading,  fanning,  and  stock 
raising. 

5Io"\rRT  Mines. — This  well-known  mining  property  has  perhaps  been  more 
continuously  and  successfully  worked  than  any  upon  the  Sonora  border.  Some 
8200,000  is  said  to  have  been  expended  in  the  ])urchase  of  the  property,  the  erec- 
tion of  reduction  works,  houses  for  laborers,  and  everything  necessary  for  an 
extensive  jind  permanent  establishment,  including  steam  engine  and  mill.  The 
district  is  finely  timbered  and  watered,  and  proverbially  healthful.  'J'wenty-livo 
tons  of  the  ore  were  sent  to  Europe  in  1SG2.  The  result,  (says  jlr.  Mowry,)  was  an 
otTer  of  dCoO  sterling  per  ton  for  the  ore  as  it  ran,  properly  cleaned.  Some  bars 
of  lead  and  silver  fn^m  the  reduction  works  sold  in  Enghmd  at  S200  per  ton, 
and  many  have  been  reduced  at  the  mines,  in  an  English  cupel  fimiace,  to  sup- 
ply silver  f(jr  the  ])ayment  of  cuiTcnt  expenses.* 

F.  Bicrtu,  metalluri;-ist  and  mining  engineer,  wTote  a  report  wpon  these  mines 
in  Felwuary,  18G1,  from  which  the  following  extracts  arc  taken  : 

Instead  of  finding,  as  I  expected,  barren  mountains,  as  at  Washoe  and  Mono,  I  gazed  on 
beautiful  landscapes  and  a  country  covered  with  trees  of  difTerent  kinds,  with  fertile  lands 
perfectly  watered.  True  it  is  that  thi;  nearest  neighbors,  the  Apaches,  an;  far  fnun  being 
even  equal  to  the  Patagonians  ;  but  this,  it  seemed  to  me,  could  not  be  a  reason  for  giving 
to  such  a  beautiful  spot,  which  in  spring  must  be  covered  with  flowers,  so  savage  a  name. 

The  property,  containing  about  500  acres  of  land,  is  situated  10  miles  from  parallel  32°  20' 

*  All  the  reports  made  upon  this  mine  are,  in  my  opinion,  to  some  extent  exaggerated.  I 
visited  it  in  16(34,  and  found  that  the  average  of  ores  ranged  at  $:55  to  .$40  per  ton.  The 
lode  averages  about  four  feet  in  thickness.  The  mine  has  never  paid  expenses,  but  might  bo 
made  profitable  under  judicious  and  ecopomical  management. — J.  K.  B. 


448  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

north  latitude,  which  forms  the  limit  between  Arizona  and  Jlexico,  20  miles  from  Fort 
Buchanan,  14  from  the  town  of  Santa  Crnz,  in  Sonora,  and  at  an  elevation  of  C,  160  feet  from 
the  level  of  the  sea;  and  a  good  road,  '2S0  miles  in  length,  and  which,  with  a  little  repair, 
might  be  made  excellent,  places  it  in  direct  communication  with  Guaymas.  By  this  route 
freight  from  San  Francisco  to  the  mine  does  not  go  beyond  five  cents  per  pound.  The  mine 
is  situated  on  the  last  hills  forming  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Sierra  de  Santa  Cruz,  and  is  bounded 
on  the  northeast  l)y  extensive  plains  covered  by  the  mesquit  and  oak  trees,  which  reach  the 
line  of  Sonora,  whose  elevated  mountains  rise  in  the  horizon.  Between  these  plains  and  the 
mine  is  to  be  seen  the  Sierra  Espuela,  called  also  Wachuka  mountains. 

The  road  leading  to  the  mine  from  Fort  Buchanan  crosses  a  range  of  hills  and  mountains 
completely  covered  with  oak,  pine,  sycamore,  poplar,  willow,  and  hazlenut.  The  land  and 
tlie  hills  around  the  mine  are  covered  with  green  oak,  cedar,  pine,  and  manzanitas.  The 
whole  country  abounds  with  rabbits,  quails,  and  wild  turkeys.  It  is  not  a  rare  occurrence 
to  meet  droves  of  deer  and  antelope,  numbering  from  25  to  30. 

The  principal  lode  of  the  Patagonia  mine  is  composed  principally  of  argentiferous  galena, 
and  runs  south  85°  east.  Its  thickness,  which  increases  as  it  dips  in  tlie  earth — now  83  feet 
in  depth — is  of  about  three  feet.  Three  small  veins,  excessively  rich,  cross  each  other  in  the 
main  vein,  all  running  in  diiferent  directions.  The  size  of  these  small  veins  varies  from  10 
to  19  inches.  Other  veins,  whose  outcroppings  are  visible  on  the  top  of  the  hill,  and  which 
run  in  a  parallel  direction  at  a  great  distance,  will,  according  to  all  probabilities,  be  met  with 
as  the  working  of  the  mine  proceeds.  The  galena  of  the  principal  vein  contains  a  small 
quantity  of  copper  and  arsenic.  It  seemed  to  me  that  I  detected  appearances  of  zinc,  but  I 
had  no  means  to  ascertain  the  fact.  An  assay  of  the  different  ores  has  given  results  varying 
from  $80  to  $706  in  silver  per  ton,  and  up  to  62  per  cent,  of  lead.  Their  reduction  is  of  the 
utmost  facility. 

Guido  Kiistel  sent  tlie  folloAving  condensed  report  npon  the  Mowry  mine  from 
San  Francisco  to  New  York  by  telegrapli,  in  April,  1864  : 

The  lode,  which  is  over  14  feet  wide,  runs  east  and  west,  between  limestone  and  granite- 
like porphyry.  It  consists  of  sulphurets  and  carbonates  of  lead  in  manganese,  often  pure, 
containing  iron,  frequently  in  large  chambers.  Its  great  advantage  is  the  presence  of  iron, 
manganese,  lime,  and  lead,  so  that  the  necessary  fluxes  are  in  the  ore  in  abundance.  The 
greatest  depth  worked  is  180  feet.     There  are  four  galleries. 

The  present  style  of  furnaces  and  system  of  purification  are  more  like  waste  than  rational 
working.     Nevertheless,  these  furnaces  paid  all  expenses,  with  120  men  employed. 

The  present  expense  of  working  six  tons  per  day  is  $15  per  ton.  There  are  many  thou- 
sand tons  of  rock  out  in  front  of  the  main  shaft,  half  of  which  is  fit  for  melting  after  very 
simple  concentration. 

Wood  is  abundant.     Live  oak  costs  $1  75  a  cord. 

With  furnaces  four  feet  square  and  ten  feet  high,  and  with  proper  treatment,  more  silver  at 
less  expense  could  be  extracted.  The  best  ore  produces  $'.MiO,  the  poorest  $50  per  ton.  But, 
even  reckoning  mining  and  reduction  at  $20  per  ton,  facts  and  calculations  show  that  the 
net  profits  of  one  day's  work  of  20  tons  will  be  §1,280. 

A  statement  from  Mr.  Mowry,  later  in  1864,  says  the  lode  has 

Much  increased  in  width  and  richness  at  the  great  depth  of  over  200  feet.  The  vein  often 
spreads  out  into  chambers  of  pure  ore  of  great  size,  no  gangue  appearing  between  the  side 
walls.     Two  peons  have  taken  out  10  tons  of  rich  ore  in  one  day's  work. 

Olive  Mine. — Half  a  mile  west  of  the  MowTy  mines  is  the  Olive  lode,  of 
argentiferous  galena.  Three  shafts  of  30  feet  each  have  been  sunk  in  it,  and 
the  lode  shows  a  width  of  14  inches.  The  ore  worked  to  this  time  has  given 
from  $50  to  $100  ])er  ton. 

San  Antonio  Mine. — This  mine  is  distant  aV)out  six  miles  southwest  of  the 
Mowry  mines.  It  was  discovered  in  1862,  and  has  been  worked  to  some  extent 
Its  ores  are  described  as  carbonates  and  sulphides  of  lead,  the  latter  occuaiing 
in  segregations. 

The  veins  in  which  these  ores  arc  found  is  composed  of  decomposed  garnet,  followed 
along  some  portions  of  its  line  of  strike  by  limestone,  bounded  by  a  country  formation  of 
feldspathic  and  granetic  porphyry.  This  vein  varies  on  the  surface  from  a  few  feet  to  J2  or 
14  feet  in  width. 

The  Empire,  the  Eagle,  the  French,  and  the  La  Esperanza  silver  lodes,  in 
the  same  vicinity,  have  l)een  sufficiently  opened  to  demonstrate  the  existence  of 
argentiferous  galena  in  quantities  and  of  a  gTade  that  may  eventually  pay. 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.      "  449 

TllR  GuALOTA  lodo,  lour  miles  west  of  the  Mowry  niiues,  is  a  lode  varying 
from  one  to  six  feet  in  widtli  on  the  surface.  At  the  bottom  of  a  shaft  of  GO 
feet  there  is  a  vein  of  metal  three  feet  wide.  The  ore  is  chiefly  sulphurets  of 
silver,  and  there  are  traces  of  gold. 

The  FiiESXAL  lodes  arc  about  GO  miles  west  of  Tubac,  in  the  Baboquivoii 
range.  The  country  is  very  roiigh  and  broken.  At  })laces  wood,  water,  and 
grass  may  be  had,  though  generally  scarce.  The  ores  are  sul})hurets  of  silver, 
and  argentiferous  galena,  black  and  brownish  ores.  The  chief  lode,  called  the 
Prieta  or  Ajax,  has  bold  croppings,  and  is  at  places  10  feet  in  width.  The 
lode  has  been  traced  for  six  miles.  Twenty  tons  of  the  surface  ore,  reduced  by 
the  Patio  process,  gave  S30  to  the  ton  the  poorest,  and  $45  the  best.  The 
size  of  this  vein,  (although  it  is  not  so  rich  as  others  already  discovered,)  with 
some  facilities  for  working,  will  proI)ably  make  it  valuable.  Three  other  veins 
Lave  been  worked  in  the  Fresnal  district,  (so  called  from  an  old  town  now 
abandoned,)  viz :  the  Colorado,  and  two  not  definitely  named.  Ore  fi-om  the 
Colorado  yielded  $75  to  the  ton. 

The  Cababi  Mixes  ai-e  in  a  district  some  75  miles  northwest  of  Tubac,  in 
the  Cababi  mountaims.  The  veins  are  not  large,  but  are  moderately  rich. 
The  ores  are  of  silver  in  sulphurets,  (amalgamating,)  and  have  thus  far  been 
reduced  b}'  the  Patio  process  only.  The  Picacho  mine,  sometimes  called  the 
Padreas  mine,  has  a  vein  about  three  feet  in  width.  It  has  been  worked  for 
many  years,  and  the  average  yield  of  the  ores  has  been  about  $80,  It  is  esti- 
mated that  the  i)rcsent  owner  has  extracted  $50,000.  Mexican  labor  only  has 
beeen  used.  The  Tajo,  the  Providcncia,  the  Tiger,  the  Cobriza,  the  Cokespa, 
and  the  Bahia  mines,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Picacho,  are  well  spoken 
of.  Some  50  tons  of  the  Coln'iza  ore,  (selected,)  sent  to  Europe  via  Guaymas, 
and  reduced  by  the  best  process,  brought  $550  i)er  ton  in  silver  and  copper. 
Eight  tons  of  selected  ore  from  the  Picacho,  sent  at  the  same  time,  yielded 
$1,200  to  the  ton.     Mr.  Pumpelly  says  of  the  Cababi  lodes : 

The  veins  which  I  observetl  occur  in  a  quartziferous  porphyry  and  iu  an  amygdaloid  rock. 
This  latter  has  a  brown  compact  base,  containing  numerous  acicular  crystals  of  tricliuic 
feldspar,  and  calcareous  spar  iu  impregnations  and  small  threads.  Cavities,  some  filled  with 
quartz  and  others  with  delessite,  arc  t'lequent. 

A  great  number  of  veins  of  quartz  aud  barytes  occur  iu  these  two  formations,  the  latter 
seeming  to  prefer  the  amygdaloid  rock.  One  vein  of  barytes,  containing  a  "bonanza"  of 
sulphurct  ot  silver,  was  found  and  worked  by  the  Mexicans,  and  several  specimens  of  heavy 
spar  associattd  with  silver  glance  from  various  localities  were  shown  me. 

The  Fresnal  and  Cababi  mines  are  in  the  country  of  the  Papago  Indians,  a 
branch  of  the  Pimas,  who  have  always  been  friendly  to  the  whites.  Hence 
operations  upon  the  mines  have  not  necessarily  been  interrupted.  Mexican  and 
Indian  lal)or  may  be  had  at  from  $15  to  $30  per  month,  and  provisions  may  be 
brought  from  Sonora  at  low  I'ates,  flour  seldom  costing  over  foiu*  cents  per  piMuid. 
While  water  is  scarce,  there  is  sufficient  for  mining,  and  in  the  shafts  of  the 
Picacho  lode  there  is  now  so  much  that  pumps  are  needed. 

At  t^uijota,  west  of  Cababi,  arc  gold  placers  (dry  washings)  long  worked  l)y 
the  Pa}iagoes,  and  now  worked  by  them  and  at  times  by  Mexicans,  with  consider- 
able profit.  Large  pieces  of  fine  gold  have  been  extracted,  and  the  gold  gen- 
erally is  coarse. 

SiERKlTi  Mixes. — These  mines  are  in  the  Sierriti  mountains,  about  30  miles 
northwest  of  Tubac.  They  are  of  argentiferous  galena.  Work  has  been  done 
upon  the  Benton,  Belcher,  and  other  lodes.  There  is  an  old  gold  placer  at  the 
west  end  of  the  mountains,  long  worked  by  Mexicans.  In  the  vicinity  is  an 
abundance  of  water  a7id  oak  timber,  and  some  gold  placers  worked  before  the 
discovery  of  gold  in  California. 

Ajo  Mixes. — These  copper  mines,  sometimes  called  the  Arizona  mines,  are 
situated  northwest  of  the  Cababi  mines  about  GO  miles,  and  40  miles  south  of 
the  Gila  river.     The  ores  are  principally  of  red  oxide,  malachite  of  copper,  and  • 

29 


450  EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

gray  suliiluuets.  A  number  of  veins  have  been  opened,  and  tlie  mines  were 
steadily  worked  for  three  years.  The  ore  was  carried  to  Fort  Yuma  and  thence 
shipped  to  San  Francisco,  to  Swansea,  and  to  Boston.  A  shipment  of  30  tons 
of  the  red  oxide  ore  sent  to  Swansea  sold  for  S360  per  ton,  and  is  said  to  have 
been  the  richest  copper  ore  of  the  class  ever  received  there.  Work  was  sus- 
pended upon  these  mines  chiefly  because  of  the  lack  of  water  on  the  desert  road 
to  Fort  Yuma. 

Santa  Eosa  Mines. — About  50  miles  west  of  Tucson,  near  the  road  from 
Cababi  to  Maricopa  Wells,  are  some  copper  lodes,  with  indications  similar  to 
those  of  the  Ajo  mines. 

Apache  Pass. — South  of  this  well-known  pass,  on  the  overland  mail  route 
to  New  Mexico,  a  number  of  lodes  have  been  located  by  soldiers  and  others, 
but  little  work  has  been  done. 

Mines  neak  Tucson. — In  the  vicinity  of  Tucson  lodes  are  not  so  numerous 
as  about  Tubac  and  the  Sonora  line,  but  a  number  have  been  taken  up. 

Lee's  ]Mine,  12  miles  due  west  from  the  town,  shows  a  vein  two  and  a  half  feet 
wide,  of  silver  sulphurets  and  galena.  Some  of  the  ore  worked  in  an  arrastra 
has  given  a  retmia  of  $150  per  ton,  and  considerable  Avork  has  been  done  upon 
the  mine.  Five  hundred  pounds  of  ore  lately  smelted  yielded  90  ounces  of 
silver. 

La  Pak  Mine,  near  Lee's  mine,,  is  of  a  similar  character  and  has  a  shaft  of 
about  100  feet.     About  25  tons  of  the  ore  have  been  smelted, 

Spangler  Mine,  some  six  or  eight  miles  southwest  of  Tucson,  is  a  copper 
lode  upon  which  some  w'ork  has  been  done. 

ViCTOiuA  Lode  is  about  16  miles  southwest  from  Tucson.  Ten  tons  of  the 
ore  (copper)  were  lately  taken  out,  and  a  part  of  the  same  has  been  shipped  to 
San  Francisco  via  Guaymas  for  a  working  test.  The  vein  is  some  10  feet  in 
width.  Four  tests  of  the  ore  in  small  quantities  have  returned  a  yield  of  45, 
714-,  72^,  and  74^  per  cent. 

San  Pedeo  Lodes. — The  district  of  the  San  Pedro  river  is  chiefly  noted  for 
its  fine  agricultural  lands,  but  several  promising  lodes  have  been  found  in  it.  It 
lies  east  from  Tucson  some  25  miles.  Mr.  Pumpelly  describes  the  ores  as  tetra- 
hedite  and  massive  copper  glance,  containing  copper  pyrites,  with  quartz  and 
barytes  i'or  gangue  from  the  San  Pedro  vein,  and  galena  with  iron  pyrites  from 
the' St.  Paul  vein.  The  San  Pedro  river  furnishes  an  abundance  of  water  for 
all  purposes. 

At  the  Cauon  d'Oro,  on  one  of  the  roads  from  Tucson  to  the  San  Pedro,  are 
gold  placers  wdiich  are  occasionally  worked,  and  seldom  without  affording  fair 
wages.     There  are  evidences  of  Avork  done  upon  them  in  years  past. 

Makicopa  Lode. — Tlus  lode,  sometimes  called  Gray's  mine,  situated  about 
70  miles  north  of  Tucson  and  four  miles  south  of  the  Gila  river,  is  considered 
one  of  the  best  copper  deposits  in  southern  Arizona.  Mr.  Gray  thus  described 
the  vein  in  a  general  report,  made  in  1860 : 

The  formation  of  the  district  is  primitive,  chiefly  <iranite  and  sienite,  with  metamorphic 
and  sedimentary  rocks,  und  iujecteil  dilvcs  of  trap  and  quartz. 

The  lode  was"  traced  and  measured  l.GdU  teet,  having  a  width  of  from  8  to  12  feet  plainly 
marked  by  its  walls  and  out-cropping  ore.  The  veinstone  is  quartz,  with  seams  of  argen- 
tiferous copper  ore,  at  the  surface  a  few  inches  wide,  but  which  at  six  feet  down  appear  nearly 
solid,  covering  the  greater  i)art  of  the  lode. 

The  copper  glance  and  gray  ore  predominate,  though  at  top  the  carbonates  and  silicates 
were  intermixed.  A  branch  vein  shows  itself  near  the  place  of  greatest  development.  Here 
it  traverses  an  elongated  hill,  intersecting  it  lengthwise,  and  protruding  above  the  surface 
from  one  end  of  the  hill  to  the  other,  a  distance  of  700  feet.  The  hill  is  00  to  1-25  feet  higher 
than  the  valleys  and  ravines  surrounding  it,  and  slopes  for  half  a  mile  in  the  direction  of  the 
lode  to  the  west,  when  the  ground  descends  northward  towards  the  Gila  at  a  rate  of  250  feet 
to  the  mile. 

The  course  of  the  lode  is  very  regular,  north  84^-^  east,  or  5^°  north  of  true  east,  and  5^° 
south  of  true  west.  The  dip  is  to  the  north,  and  about  75°  from  the  horizon,  very  nearly 
vertical  as  far  as  could  be  observed 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUXTAIXS.  451 

'IIio  clcvatio::  of  tlic  ^laiicopii  inino,  defrrmiurd  by  nio  witli  ii  fino  oistcni  barometer,  is 
X'Mf'  A'pt  iilj<)V(>  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  I.4il7  feet  liijrlier  tlmii  our  camp  established  on  the 
Gila  river  six  miles  otV,  seleeted  as  ii  pood  site  for  smelt ino;  works. 

"NV.  Iv.  lliipkiiis,  civil  on£:iiioer,  in  connection  with  tlic  Hanie  report,  speaks  as 
follows  : 

*  *  *  We  have  traced  the  copper  lode  by  distinct  pieces  of  heavy  ore  for  1,000 
feet,  almut  east  and  west;  also,  three  other  veins.  Tlie  lode  appears  to  be  from  fc!  to  11?  teet 
wide  on  the  surface. 

'1  lie  shaft  we  liave  commenced  is  on  the  main  lode,  and  on  ;i  hill  that  rises  from  GO  to  100 
feel  above  the  snrroinidinp  pruHeys.  It  is  now  seven  feet  square  and  six  feet  deep.  The  ore 
IS  increasiiiof  in  i  ieiiness,  and  the  veins  wideniuij.  The  vein  containing  the  copper  planco, 
specimens  of  which  yen  will  receive,  is  now  W  inches  wide,  and  t)ccupies  the  south  side  of 
the  lode  Next  to  this  comes  pray  and  preen  ores  and  tlie  red  oxide  of  copper.  Tlie  lode  is 
now  occupied  with  the  ore,  so  that  nearly  all  that  is  thrown  out  goes  into  the  pile  to  bo 
smelted. 

The  dip  of  the  lode  is  now  sliphtly  to  the  north,  and  we  suppose  that  it  will  run  into  another 
lode  "J")  feet  north  of  it,  and  form  a  wider  bed  of  ore  than  we  now  lind. 

We  wiiuUI  express  to  yi^m  our  coiitidence  in  the  extreme  richmss  of  the  mine,  both  from  our 
own  olxeivatiiin  and  the  opinion  of  experienced   miners  throuphout  this  section  of  country. 

We  find  fiie  water-power  on  the  river  abundant.  Mesquit  is  in  sufficient  quantities  to 
furnish  charcoal,  which  is  of  the  best  quality. 

Frederick  Brunckow,  assayer  aiid  mining  eiigiiiecv,  made  a  report  in  January, 
ISGO,  upon  some  selected  specimens  from  this  mine,  from  whicli  this  extract  is 
taken  : 

The  specimens  consisted  of  the  outcrop  ore  of  a  powerful  vein,  and  bear  the  unmistakable 
tigns  of  a  true  vein.  *  *  As  commonly  by  all  outcrop  ore.  so  here  carbonates 

and  silicates  make  their  appearance,  while  the  main  body  of  the  vein,  to  some  extent  below 
the  surface  proljably,  will  consist  in  general  of  pray  sulphuret  of  cop])er  and  other  ores  which 
ahead}-  in  larpe  quantities  appear  upon  the  surface.  *  *  j  divided  the  ores  into 
different  classes,  and  assayed  them  accordinply. 

1.  Fahl  ore,  (Tennantit,)  mixed  with  carbonate,  contained  to  the  ton  50  per  cent,  copper 
and  im  ounces  silver. 

2.  Gray  sulphuiet  containinp  to  the  ton  GO  per  cent,  copper  and  93  ounces  of  silver. 

3.  Silicate  of  copper  containing  20  to  25  per  cent,  copjier,  and  20  to  25  ounces  of  silver  to 
the  ton. 

4.  Carbonate  of  copper  containinp  25  to  50  per  cent,  copper  and  only  a  trace  of  silver;  as 
carbonates  and  silicates  are  secondary  formation,  a  Inrpe  yield  of  silver  could  not  be  expected. 

The  ore  of  this  vein  would  be  the  cheapest  and  quickest  way  to  reduce  iu  a  blast  furn'ace, 
and  run  into  copper  ingots,  which  could  be  shipped,  and  afterwards  be  striiqicd  of  their  siivei:. 
Iron  crusliers  forbreakinp  the  ore,  as  well  as  the  necessary  blast,  could  be  driven  by  water- 
power,  of  which  there  is  at  the  Rio  Gilo  any  abundance. 

GEyEKAL  r.EMAUKS  OX  SOUTHERN"  Arizoxa. — The  foregoing  reference  to 
the  princijial  mining  localities  in  southern  Arizona  will  show  that  the  country  is 
pre-eminently  mineral  beaiing.  In  most  places  there  is  a  tolerahle  supply  of 
mesquit  timlier,  Init  water  is  scarce.  The  grazing  is  generally  excellent.  A 
great  need  of  southern  Arizona  is  a  port  upon  the  Gulf  of  California,  and  it  has 
long  been  the  ardent  hope  of  the  people  that  either  Guaymas  or  Libertad  Vx^ould 
be  secured.  While  the  roads  are  for  the  most  j)art  good,  the  distance  from  Fort 
Yuma,  the  nearest  American  port  at  present,  is  so  great  as  to  involve  large 
expense  in  the  transportation  of  machinery  and  such  supplies  as  are  not  pro- 
duced in  the  country. 

Enough  has  been  done  to  show  tliat  some  of  the  lodes,  if  not  remarkably 
rich,  are  sufficiently  .'^o  to  pay  well  when  they  can  be  worked  at  a  reasonable  out- 
lay, and  as  the  Apaches  are  overcome,  and  the  agriculttu'al  lands  are  safely  cul- 
tivated, mining  oju-rations  will  jirobably  be  renewed. 

It  is  a  well-ainhenticated  fact  that  until  the  uprising  of  the  Apaches,  (about 
1780,)  many  of  the  silver  mines  of  that  part  of  northern  Sonora,  now  consti- 
tuting Sdiitheni  Arizona,  were  worked  with  remunerative  results. 

Should  a  railroad  from  the  Rio  Grande,  or  from  tlie  Gulf  of  California,  be 
extended  over  anyone  of  the  easy  routes  to  southern  Arizona,  the  cotuitry  would 
"be  made  an  attractive  mineral  region,  and  would  soon  be  well  jiopulated.  The 
principal  streams  are  the  Santa  Ciiiz,  the  Sonoita,  the  San  Pedro,  and  the  Gila. 


452  KESOUECES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

SECTION   III. 

COLORADO    RIVER. 

The  valley  of  this  great  river,  ''the  Mississippi  of  the  Pacific,"  may  jiistlybe 
coHsidered  one  of  the  natural  divisions  of  Arizona.  Ascending  the  river  from  its 
mouth  it  is  a  distance  of  150  miles  to  Fort  Yuma,  where  the  mineral  district  may 
be  said  to  begin.  Opposite  to  the  fort,  on  the  Arizona  side,  is  the  town  of  Ari- 
zona City.  The  Gila  road  to  Tucson,  and  across  the  Territory  to  New  Mexico, 
begins  at  this  place,  and  the  supplies  for  the  military  of  southern  Arizona  are 
forwarded  from  here,  coming  from  San  Francisco  via  the  Gulf  of  California, 

Up  the  Gila,  some  20  miles  from  the  Colorado,  gold  placers  were  discovered 
in  1858,  and  caused  some  excitement.  A  traveller  passing  at  that  time  says  he 
saw  S20  washed  out  of  eight  shovelsfuU  of  dirt,  and  this  in  the  rudest  manner 
by  an  unpracticed  hand.  The  diggings  arc  in  the  sand-hills  half  a  mile  or  more 
from  the  river,  too  far  to  carry  water  by  hand,  and  as  l)y  dry  Avashing  but  $1  or 
$2  a  day  can  be  made,  they  are  now  for  the  most  part  abandoned.  Occasionally 
a  strilie  is  made  by  Indians  or  Mexicans,  and  S20  to  $30  secured  in  a  day.  Old 
residents  of  the  Colorado  and  Gila  mining  districts  give  it  as  their  opinion  that 
with  water  conducted  to  the  placers  they  would  pay  well.  A  company  organized 
in  186G  for  tliis  purpose  sent  some  machinery  to  Gila  City,  but  subsequently  gave 
up  the  enterprise. 

The  first  mining  district  of  note  on  the  Colorado  is  some  40  miles  above  Aii- 
zona  City  by  the  river,  and  known  as  the  Eureka  district.  The  ores  are  chiefly 
argentiferous  galena,  containing  from  20  to  30  per  cent,  of  silver.  There  is  also 
a  show  of  gold.  The  lodes  are  in  the  moimtain  ranges,  and  situated  at  from  I 
to  20  miles  east  from  the  river  banks.  They  may  be  reached  by  trails.  Generally 
travel  is  difficult  in  that  region,  owing  to  the  rugged  nature  of  the  country.  But 
few  of  the  lodes  taken  up  in  the  first  excitement  (18G2)  have  been  developed. 
Of  those  upon  which  work  has  been  perfonned  the  Buena  Vista  promises  well. 
The  Avidth  of  the  lode  in  tlie  main  shaft  (which  is  60  feet  deep)  is  about  five  feet. 
Some  of  the  ore  submitted  to  a  working  test  gave  a  yield  of  $60  in  silver  to  the 
ton.  The  Bronze,  the  Margarita,  and  the  Vernon  lodes  yield  ore  of  the  same 
class  and  value.  The  country  rock  is  granite  and  slate  ;  the  silver  veins  are  in 
pink  and  white  quartz.  Copper  indications  are  numerous,  and  it  is  supposed  that 
deposits  of  that  ore  exist  here  as  well  as  further  up  the  river. 

Silver  Distkict,  on  the  Colorado,  nortli  of  the  Eureka,  has  some  well- 
defined  veins  capped  with  what  the  miners  call  "dry  bone,"  containing  consider- 
able zinc.  The  district  has  been  but  little  prospected.  Most  of  the  lodes  located 
are  from  three  to  four  miles  from  the  river.  Upon  one  a  shaft  was  sunk  to  the 
depth  of  25  feet  before  reaching  metal,  when  a  good  quality  of  silver  and  lead 
ore  was  discovered. 

Castle  Dome,  50  miles  above  Arizona  City,  is  a  well-known  mining  district, 
so  called  from  an  isolated  mountain  bearing  a  close  resemblance  to  a  dome.  The 
lodes  are  in  a  range  of  mountains  from  15  to  30  miles  back  of  the  river,  but,  as 
in  the  Eureka  district,  they  are  not  very  easy  of  access,  and  water  is  exceedingly 
scarce.  A  number  of  lodes  have  been  claimed,  and  several  companies  organ- 
ized in  San  Francisco  for  their  development.  Those  opened  are  from  a  foot  to 
five  feet  in  width,  and  well  defined. 

Professor  Blake  states  that  the  ores  of  Castle  Dome  are  argentiferous  galena, 
in  a  vein-stone  of  fiaor  spar,  and  that  they  contain  30  to  40  oimces  of  silver  to 
the  ton. 

Mr.  Safe,  one  of  the  principal  owners  in  this  district,  fm-nishes  an  estimate  of 
what  he  believes  the  true  value  of  the  ores  to  be  in  San  Francisco,  and  what  the 
expense  Anil  be  provided  the  mines  can  be  made  to  produce  regularly  a  large 
quantity  of  ore : 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  453 

Price  of  (>0  por  cont.  ores  per  ton $50  00 

Castle  Dome  ores  arc  75  ouuces  of  lend 12  50 

Add  75  ouuces  of  silver  per  ton 75  00 

Giving  for  vnlne  of  ton  of  ore  in  silver  and  lead i;37  50 

1  deduct  freip:lit  to  San  Francisco $15  00 

Deduct  citrtiuff  to  the  river 10  00 

Deduct  miuiug  and  sackiug 10  00 

35  00 

Leaving  a  profit  per  ton  of ]  02  50 


Mr.  Gird,  another  owner,  values  the  ores  at  60  jier  cent,  worth  $40  in  silver  to 
the  ton;  making — 

The  value  of  a  ton  of  ore $90  00 

He  allows  for  mining  and  sacking $12  00 

Carting  to  the  Colorado  river 15  00 

Freight  thence  to  San  Francisco 18  00 

45  00 

Leaving  a  profit  per  ton  of 45  00 


The  bottoms  and  ravines  furnish  cottonwood,  mesqnit,  and  ironwood,  but  not 
in  sutfieicnt  quantities  to  supply  fuel  for  reduction  works  upon  a  large  scale,  and 
hence,  as  most  of  the  Colorado  river  ores  are  such  as  require  a  smelting  process, 
it  will  probably  be  found  most  profitable  to  ship  them  to  San  Francisco.  Lately 
a  price  has  been  offered  in  that  city  for  lead  ores  from  the  Eureka  and  Castle 
Dome  districts  which  is  sufficient  to  waiTant  their  shipment  even  at  the  present 
rates  of  transportation. 

In  the  Weaver  District,  next  above  the  Castle  Dome  district,  the  silver 
lodes  are  much  of  the  same  character.  Those  of  copper  are  quite  promising. 
Of  these  the  Colorado  has  a  fair  reputation.  It  is  thus  described  by  Mr.  Herman 
Ehrenberg,  a  good  authority  : 

This  mine  is  located  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Colorado  river,  in  the  Territory  of  Arizona, 
nine  miles  south  of  La  Paz,  and  about  eight  miles  east  from  the  river.  The  outcroppiugs 
are  very  heavj',  and  may  be  traced  for  a  mile  by  bands  or  isolated  outbrealis  of  quartz  mat- 
ter stained  with  carbonates,  intermixed  with  copper-glance.  The  Colorado  appears  more  like 
a  mighty  intcrstratitied  deposit  of  gneiss  and  nietamorphic  slates  in  which  it  occurs,  forced 
to  the  surface  by  an  eruptive  mass  of  rock  that  breaks  fortli  west  of  the  croppings.  Fixture 
developments  may  prove  this  appearance  to  be  deceptive,  and  that  at  a  greater  depth  the  vein 
will  have  a  greater  dip,  becoming  more  vertical,  and,  in  place  of  following  the  stratification, 
break  through  them  like  a  true  fissure  vein.  It  is  immaterial,  however,  to  which  class  of 
mineral  deposits  the  Colorado  belongs.  If  an  iuterstratified  deposit,  or  nearly  horizontal  vein, 
its  great  extent  and  width  on  the  surface  and  the  rich  ores  it  contains  speak  extremely  favor- 
able for  its  becoming  a  lasting  and  extremely  valuable  mineral  deposit.  Many  a  great  copper 
deposit,  like  those  of  Talhua  and  Manslield,  which  have  bcf-n  worked  for  centuries,  with 
immense  success,  are  of  a  similar  description,  differing,  perhaps,  in  the  formation  which 
encloses  them  being  younger  and  less  disturbed  by  eruptive  forces.  The  ore  already  taken 
out  may  be  divided  into  three  qualities — the  first  should  yield  from  40  to  70  per  cent,  in  cop- 
per, carrying  with  it  a  large  quantity  of  silver;  the  next  grade  will  give  from  '60  to  50  per 
cent,  in  copper  alone;  the  third  grade  contains  free  gold  ranging  from  $30  to  $100  per  ton. 

A  shipment  of  the  Colorado  ore  was  made  to  Richardson  &  Company,  Swansea. 
Their  rettmi,  dated  January  1%,  1867,  gives  a  yield  of  oO'^  per  cent,  in  copper, 
with  68  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton.  They  say  they  aix'  ready  to  pay  <£50  ster- 
ling per  ton  for  such  ore. 

The  next  district  is  that  a>)0ut  the  towTi  of  La  Paz,  and  bears  the  same  name. 
It  was  first  explored  in  the  Colorado  gold  excitement  of  1862,  and,  indeed,  little 
was  known  of  the  mineral  resources  of  the  Colorado  valley  until  that  year.  Mr. 
A.  McKey,  member  of  the  temtorial  legislature  from  La  Paz,  has  furnished  the 
annexed  account  of  the  discovery  of  the  placers  which  caused  the  iq)building  of 
La  Paz,  now  a  place  of  considerable  importance,  and  a  favorite  shipping  point 


454  TcESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND    TEREITOEIES 

for  goods  for  Central  Arizona;  Prescott,  the  capital  of  tLe  Tenitor}-,  being  at  a 
distance  of  less  than  200  miles  in  the  interior,  and  Wickenburg  at  a  distance  of 
but  a  little  more  than  100,  over  remarkably  good  roads: 

Captain  Pauline  Weaver,  and  others,  in  the  month  of  January,  1862,  were  trapping  on 
the  Colorado  river,  and  at  times  would  stray  off  into  the  mountains  for  the  purpose  of  pros- 
pecting for  gold.  They  had  discovered  what  was  then  named  and  is  still  called  *'  El  Arollo 
de  la  Tenaja,"  which  is  about  two  miles  north  from  El  Campo  Ferra,  and  about  seven 
miles  east  from  La  Paz.  In  this  gulch  they  had  discovered  gold  in  small  quantities,  and 
had  taken  two  or  three  dollars'  worth  out,  which  Captain  Weaver  kept  in  a  goose-quill. 

Soon  after  this  discovery  Weaver  visited  Fort  Yuma  and  exhibited  what  gold  he  had 
This  evidence  of  the  existence  of  a  cominodiry  so  much  sought  for  in  this  country  convinced 
others  that  gold  might  be  found  in  quantities  by  hunting  for  it.  Don  Jose  M.  Eedondo 
Laving  heard  of  the  discovery,  at  once  set  out  to  visit  the  newly  found  "El  Dorado  "  in  com- 
pany with  several  others.  He  arrived  a  few  days  afterward  at  the  camp  of  Captain  Weaver, 
who  pointed  out  to  him  and  his  party  the  particular  gulch  from  which  he  had  taken  the  gold. 
After  a  short  examination  of  this  place  the  party  set  out  in  different  directions  to  discover,  if 
possible,  something  wliich  would  pay  to  work,  and  the  extent  of  the  placers.  Within  less 
than  a  mile  from  Weaver's  camp,  south,  Eedondo  took  a  pan  of  dirt  to  prospect,  and  when 
he  had  dry-washed  it,  to  the  astonishment  of  himself  and  the  party  with  him,  he  found  that 
he  had  one  "chispa''  which  weighed  two  ounces  and  one  dollar,  besides  other  small  pieces. 
Others  of  his  party  found  good  prospects,  but  none  of  the  company  had  come  for  anything 
more  than  to  ascertain  the  truth  or  falsity  of  the  reported  glad  tidings,  and  therefore  were 
not  prepared  to  remain  and  work  for  want  of  the  necessary  provisions  and  tools,  but  were 
compelled  to  return  to  La  Laguua,  a  settlement  some  twenty  miles  above  Fort  Yuma,  on 
the  Arizona  side  of  the  Colorado.  After  their  arrival  at  La  Laguna,  and  report  of  what 
they  had  discovered,  a  party  of  40  persons  prepared  to  visit  the  new  mines.  After  their 
arrival  in  the  placers,  about  the  middle  of  February,  18G2,  discoveries  were  made  almost 
daily,  until  it  was  known  that  every  gulch  and  ravine  for  twenty  miles  east  and  south  was 
ricli  with  gold.  Ferra  Camp,  Campo  en  Medio,  American  Camp,  Los  Chollos,  La  Plomosa, 
and  many  other  smaller  places,  all  had  their  rich  diggings,  but  the  discovery  made  by  Juan 
Ferra,  of  the  Ferra  gulch,  was,  without  doubt,  the  most  valuable  of  any.  Very  soon  the 
knowledge  of  these  discoveries  spread  to  Sonora  and  California,  and  people  began  to  pour  in 
from  all  points,  and  continued  to  come  until  they  probably  numbered  fifteen  hundred.  This 
population  was  maintained  to  a  greater  or  less  extent  until  the  spring  of  1864,  when  the 
apjiarent  exhaustion  of  the  placers  and  the  extreme  high  prices  for  provisions  caused  large 
numbers  to  leave.  The  discovery  of  the  Weaver  and  Walker's  diggings,  in  the  year  1863, 
drew  away  many  of  the  miners  from  these  placers. 

Of  the  yield  of  these  placers,  anything  like  an  approximation  to  the  average  daily  amount 
of  what  was  taken  out  per  man  would  only  be  guess-work.  Hundreds  of  dollars  per  day  to 
the  man  was  common,  and  now  and  again  a  thousand  or  more  per  day.  Don  Juan  Ferra 
took  one  nugget  from  his  claim  which  weighed  47  ounces  and  six  dollars.  Another  party  found 
a  "  chispa  "  weighing  27  ounces,  and  another  one  of  20  ounces.  Many  others  found  pieces 
of  from  one  or  two  ounces  up  to  20,  and  yet  it  is  contended  that  the  greater  proportion  of  the 
larger  nuggets  were  never  shown  for  fear  of  some  evil  spirits,  who  infested  the  mines  at  the 
time.  It  is  the  opinion  of  those  most  conversant  with  the  first  working  of  these  placers  that 
much  the  greater  proportion  of  the  gold  taken  out  was  in  nuggets  weighing  from  one  dollar 
up  to  the  size  of  the  'chispas"  above  named.  I  have  often  heard  it  said  of  those  days  that 
'•  not  even  a  Papago  Indian  would  work  for  less  than  ^iU  per  day." 

As  has  been  seen  from  the  above,  the  gold  was  large,  and  generally  clear  of  foreign  sub- 
stances. The  largest  \ncce.  (above  mentioned)  did  not  contain  an  apparent  atom  of  quartz 
or  any  other  base  matter.  The  gold  from  the  different  camps  varied  a  trifle  in  its  worth  at 
the  mint  in  San  Francisco,  and  brought  from  i^l7  50  to  5; II)  50  per  ounce.  But  all  that 
was  sold  or  taken  here  went  for  from  §16  to  .^17  per  ounce.  Since  the  year  1864  until 
the  present,  there  have  been  at  various  times  many  men  at  work  in  these  placers,  number- 
ing in  the  winter  months  liundreds,  but  in  the  summer  months  not  exceeding  75  or  100; 
and  all  seem  to  do  sufficiently  well  not  to  be  willing  to  work  for  the  wages  of  the  country, 
which  are  and  have  been  foi  some  time  from  ^'M  to  .'j(J5  per  month  and  found.  Xo  inconsid- 
erable amount  of  gold  comes  in  from  these  placers  now  weekly,  and  only  a  few  days  ago  I 
saw,  myself,  a  nugget  which  weighed  .$40,  clear  and  pure  from  any  foreign  substance. 

Some" parties  have  lately  come  into  these  diggings  with  what  is  called  concentrators  or  dry 
washers,  which  they  have  been  working  for  a  tew  weeks,  and  in  conversation  with  Mr. 
Fiukler  (an  owner  of  one  of  these  machines)  he  told  me  that  he  could  make  $20  per  day  where 
he  was  at  work,  and  pay  three  dollars  per  day  for  his  hands,  and  that  he  only  required  four 
to  work  the  machine.  Should  these  machines  prove  a  success  these  placers  will  soon  be 
peopled  again  with  industrious,  prosperous  miners.  Of  the  total  amount  of  gold  taken  from 
these  mines,  I  am  as  much  at  a  loss  to  say  what  it  has  been  as  I  was  to  name  the  i^'erage 
daily  wages  of  the  first  years,  and  as  I  might  greatly  differ  from  those  who  were  among  the 
first  in  these  mines,  I  do  not  feel  justified  in  .setting  up  an  opinion  as  against  them ;  I  shall, 
therefore,  give  the  substance  of  the  several  opinions  which  I  have  obtained  from  those  who 


■WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  455 

■^•ovo  [ho  pionoors  of  tlieso  placers.  I  bavo  failed  to  fiiKl  any  one  of  them  whoso  opinion  is 
tliar  less  than  $l,(K)li,(ll)0  were  taken  fVum  these  ilij^jjinfj.s  within  the  first  year,  and  in  all 
probability  as  niucii  was  taken  out  within  the  following  years. 

As  mii^lit.  be  supjiosed,  the  richness  of  thoso  placers  stigc^cstcd  tlio  cxistenco  of 
valuable  quartz  lodes  in  the  vicinity,  and  prospectini^  began  in  18G3.  The 
result  was  the  location  of  a  number  of  gold,  silver  and  copper  veins  within  an 
area  of  30  miles  about  La  Paz.  Of  these  several  have  been  opened,  and  tlio 
ores  well  tested. 

CoNSTAXTiA  MiXE. — A  gold  mine  12  miles  east  of  La  Paz  has  a  shaft  of 
75  feet,  and  some  20  tons  of  the  ore  worked  by  aiTastras  yielded  $30  to  $50  per 
ton.  The  vein  is  five  feet  wide  in  a  granite  formation  and  reguLir.  The  Las 
Posas  is  a  similar  vein. 

Conquest  3Iixe. — This  is  a  gold  mine,  otherwise  known  as  the  Ilavena  mine. 
It  is  situated  east  of  La  Paz,  some  six  miles,  and  has  been  well  prospected.  A 
innnl)er  of  shafts  and  tunnels  have  been  opened,  and  the  vein  is  found  to  be  well 
delined  and  promising.  The  width  is  from  3  to  20  feet.  Some  silver  is  found 
in  the  ore  which  is  free  from  sulj)hnrets.  Gangs  of  men  are  now  employed,  as 
they  have  been  for  several  years,  in  preparing  this  mine  for  working  upon  a  large 
scale,  and  its  owner,  Mr.  Ravena,  is  confident  that  he  has  a  valuable  property. 
He  lias  already,  it  is  said,  been  offered  $100,000. 

Cruc  Mixe. — This  lode  is  also  of  gold-l)earing  quartz,  with  a  mixture  of 
galena  in  the  ore.     A  shaft  50  feet  deep  has  been  sunk. 

PiCACHO  Mixe. — At  a  point  some  30  miles  east  from  La  Paz,  on  the  road  to 
"Wickenburg,  a  number  of  silver-bearing  lodes  were  opened  in  1863  and  1864. 
Much  work  was  done  upon  the  Picacho,  and  about  300  tons  of  ore  were  extracted 
from  the  shafts  and  tunnels,  which  amounted  to  some  600  feet  in  extent.  For 
some  cause  or  other  the  ore  was  iu»t  worked.  The  ore  is  of  argentiferous  galena, 
and  the  vein  shows  a  width  of  about  three  feet  five  inches. 

Peach  Bloo:*!  Mixe. — A  shaft  of  80  feet  has  been  sunk  npon  the  lode  which 
adjoins  the  Picacho,  and  is  of  a  similar  class. 

The  Hughes,  the  Americax  Pioxeer,  the  Scotty,  and  the  Salazax  silver 
lodes  in  the  same  vicinity  are  generally  of  the  same  class,  but  for  various  reasons 
have  not  yet  been  nnich  worked.  Good  pay  ore  in  carbonates  and  chlorides  has 
been  taken  from  the  latter,  but  no  permanent  vein  yet  found. 

The  Apache  Chief  copper  lode,  near  the  foregoing,  is  one  of  the  most  remarka- 
ble in  Arizona,  and  at  one  time  attracted  considerable  attention  in  San  Francisco. 
The  ore  is  found  in  deposits  rather  than  in  a  regular  vein,  but  the  location  is 
too  far  from  navigation  to  make  mining  profitable  at  present.  The  country 
about  La  Paz  is  barren  of  wood  saving  mescjnit  and  ironwood  in  the  gulches 
and  ravines,  and  water  is  not  abundant,  although  it  might  possibly  be  had  at 
any  point  between  La  Paz  and  Wickenburg  by  sinking  artesian  wells.  A  com- 
pany holding  a  charter  for  a  toll  road  to  Wickenburg  and  Prescott  have  proposed 
to  sink  several  such,  but  have  as  yet  taken  no  action. 

Ascending  the  Colorado  towards  Williams  Fork,  the  mountains,  n<>arly  all 
show  signs  of  metal -l)earing.  Perhaps  the  most  striking  and  extensive  group  of 
copper  veins  yet  discovered  is  in  the  Harcuvar  chain  of  mountains,  at  a  distance 
of  35  miles  east  of  the  river,  and  55  miles  northeast  of  La  I'az,  and  a  little  north 
of  the  La  Paz  and  Wickenburg  road,  before  refen-ed  to. 

Herman  Ehrenberg,  who  was  among  the  first  to  examine  the  lodes  upon  the 
Colorado,  as  he  was  those  in  southern  Arizona,  and  who  was  noted  for  his 
cautious  language,  made  a  lengthy  report  upon  the  Harcuvar  district,  of  which 
the  annexed  is  a  synopsis : 

The  group  embraces  18  lodes,  making  an  aggregate  of  51,200  lineal  feet. 
Shafts  have  been  sunk  which  demonstrate  that  they  are  not  only  large  but  per- 
manent veins.  The  rocks  of  the  country  are  gi-anite  gneiss,  fractmed  at  right 
angles  to  the  plain  or  arrangement  of  stratification.     The  fissurcD  are  nearly  per- 


456  EESOUECES    OF    STATES    AXD    TERRITORIES 

penclicular,  and  vary  in  widtli  from  5  to  15  feet.  The  vein  mass  consists  of 
calcareous  spar,  tinctnred  green  by  the  mixtm-e  of  talc  in  small  quantities  It  is 
distinctly  separated  from  the  connecting  rock  by  a  narrow  selvage  of  a  femigiuous 
substance,  colored  by  hydratcd  oxide  of  iron.  The  sheets  of  ore  are  compact 
and  continuous,  the  mass  of  the  gangue  being  found  near  one  of  the  walls,  both 
of  the  true  walls  of  the  different  cuts  having  been  reached  in  only  a  few  instances. 
The  several  cuts  show  the  same  general  bold  iron-stained  croppings,  the  same 
broad  fissures,  the  same  surface  ores,  similar  dip,  and  nearly  parallel  bearing  or 
strike. 

On  the  CriNNiiNGHAir  lode  the  shaft  has  been  sunk  to  the  depth  of  107  feet. 
The  metallic  part  of  this  vein  varies  in  width  from  four  to  six  feet,  the  width 
gradually  increasing  ^dth  the  depth.  The  ore  in  sinking  assumes  an  undecom- 
poscd  and  characteristic  appearance,  i.  o.  sulphurets  and  pyrites.  The  vein  has 
a  dip  of  nearly  80°  north-northeast,  bearing  or  striking  northwest,  and  is  sin- 
gularly regular,  being  tracealde  a  long  distance  on  the  surface. 

The  Qda-sha-qua-mah,  another  of  the  leads  embraced  in  the  group,  has  been 
sunk  upon  to  the  depth  of  48  feet;  it  is  a  much  larger  vein  than  the  Cmming- 
ham  and  has  yielded  some  good  ore.  All  the  other  leads  have  been  opened  by 
small  shafts  or  cuts,  and  nearly  all  show  the  same  bold  croppings,  similar  dip 
and  strike,  and  the  same  general  character  of  ores.  It  is  unquestionably  one 
of  the  most  promising  groups  of  copper  mines  in  Arizona.  Assorted  ores  taken 
from  these  leads  have  been  shipped  to  Swansea,  and  worked  37j  per  cent. 
Assays  made  range  from  30  to  70  per  cent.  These  high-grade  ores  can  be  easily 
mined. 

Williams  Fork. — Some  70  miles  north  of  La  Paz,  Williams  Fork,  or,  as  it 
was  originally  named,  "  Bill  Williams  Fork,"  after  a  well  known  trapper  and 
explorer,  enters  the  Colorado  from  the  east.  It  is  the  first  tributary  worthy  of 
note  north  of  the  Gila,  and  has  its  rise  in  the  mountain  ranges  between  Wick- 
enbui'g  and  Prescott ;  the  streams  known  as  Kirkland  creek  and  Date  creek 
being  its  head-waters. 

The  Williams  Fork  district  is  now  the  best  known  copper  region  in  Arizona. 
The  country  for  a  number  of  miles  on  each  side  of  the  creek  abounds  in  scattered 
croppings  and  masses  or  bunches  of  copper  ore.  It  is  contended  by  some  that 
there  are  several  clearly  defined  copper  lodes.  A  recent  writer  thus  refers  to 
their  characteristics : 

The  containing  rock  is  of  trapean  character,  and  geolof^ically  .speaking,  comparatively 
recent,  probably  belonging  to  the  early  tertiary  or  eocene  era.  These  copper  veins  are,  from 
the  present  state  of  knowledge  and  observai.on,  supposed  to  he  composed  entirely  of  iissure 
veins,  or  infiltrated  deposits  from  the  general  impregnation  of  the  containing  rock,  rheir 
materials  laving  made  their  way  by  plntouic  forces  through  the  trapean  rocks,  and  the-r 
accompanying  formations.  The  theory  of  the  formation  of  tliis  district  is  against  a  syuclijal 
plutonic  base,  unlike  the  California  middle  coppiT  belt,  because  the  whole  of  the  containing 
rock  is  the  same.  Its  geognostic  position,  however,  is,  as  far  as  authoritative  geology  is 
concerned,  sufficiently  true  of  a  real  vein  formation.  But  one  of  the  best  evidences  of  the 
value  of  the  copper  deposits  of  tliat  district  is  tliat  they  are  massive,  solid,  and  regular,  so 
far  as  developed,  whilst  in  the  deposits  the  least  infiltration  is  impregnated  with  carbonates. 
The  outside  gossan  is  usually  of  specular  or  mafjiietic  iron,  which  is  invariably  found  adjacent 
on  the  surface.     Such  is  the  character  of  the  richest  copper  mines  the  world  over. 

The  Planet  Company  was  organized  in  California  in  1864;  the  company  owns 
five  claims  as  follows  :  Phiiiet,  2,700  feet ;  Ashk'y,  2,100  feet;  Wash,  2,100  feet; 
Sentinel,  2,100  feet;  and  IMountain  Chief,  1,800  feet.  To  this  time  no  work  has 
been  done  upon  the  Sentinel  and  ]Moiint;un  Chief  more  than  that  required  by  the 
laws  of  the  district,  in  t)rder  to  hold  ihem.  The  Ashley  claim  has  been  so  far 
developed  as  to  show  evidences  of  a  ledge  of  copper  ore  about  600  feet  in  length. 
Several  cuts  have  been  made  develo|)ing  indications  of  an  average  thickness  in 
the  ledffo  of  about  10  feet.  The  character  of  the  ore  is  malachite,  assay  30  per 
cent,  copper.    Only  about  25  tons  have  been  mined  from  this  claim.    The  AVash 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  457 

claim  is  the  wasli  scparatini:^  tlie  Ashley  and  Planet  (-lainis.  Tlio  Planet  claim 
has  been  worked  since  the  spring  of  1SG5,  and  about  800  tons  of  ore  have  been 
taken  out.  The  ore  is  of  array  and  red  oxide,  average  assay  40  per  cent.  It 
has  been  S(dd  in  San  Francisco  at  an  average  of  §100  per  ton. 

The  mines  are  located  12  miles  from  tlie  Colorado,  and  within  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  of  Williams  Fork.  The  cost  of  transporting  ore  to  San  Francisco  was  at 
iirst  SGO  jier  ton.  It  is  now  $28  per  ton,  and  will  probably  soon  be  but  $18  or 
$20.  If  the  company  could  erect  a  warehouse  at  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado, 
and  store  the  ore  there  until  a  cargo  for  a  large  vessel  accuumlated,  it  could  be 
shij^ped  from  the  mines  to  Boston  or  Swansea,  at  a  total  cost  of  not  more  than 
$2')  per  ton.  Then  30  per  cent,  ore,  of  which  there  is  a  quantity  in  both  the 
Ashley  and  Planet  claims,  coidd  be  profitably  worked.  Several  other  companies 
are  engaged  in  working  copper  lodes  at  Williams  Fork.  Mr.  Thompson,  a 
practical  and  enter))rising  miner,  superintendent  of  the  Great  Centi'al  Company, 
has  erected  furnaces  for  smelting  the  ore  taken  from  the  Eliza  mine,  and  althougli 
he  has  had  many  obstacles  to  contend  with,  his  experiment  has  not  proved 
altogether  unsuccessful.  The  Eliza  is  biit  1,000  feet  distant  from  the  Planet 
It  is  thought  by  some  to  be  njjon  the  same  vein,  but  this  has  not  yet  been  demon- 
strated. According  to  a  late  report  the  company  have  two  small  furnaces  run- 
ning, turning  out  copper  fnmi  91  to  96  per  cent,  fine,  wdiich  is  being  shipped  to 
San  Francisco.  A  large  lot  of  this  copper  has  been  sold  for  15  cents  per  pound, 
$300  per  ton.  The  cost  of  delivering  such  copper  is  but  a  little  over  $100  per 
ton. 

The  ores  of  this  mine  are  oxides  and  carbonates,  very  little  or  no  iron  or  sulphur 
being  present ;  hence  the  company  is  able  to  turn  out  at  one  smelting  a  very 
good  ai-ticle  of  copper.  Some  of  this  copper  has  been  used  by  the  brass  foundries 
of  San  Francisco,  who  have  pronounced  it  a  very  fair  article  for  many  commer- 
cial i)urposes,  just  as  it  comes  from  the  furnace.  Within  less  than  two  months 
they  Avill  have  a  larger  funiace  in  operation,  which  they  think  will  be  able  to 
turn  out  from  three  to  five  tons  of  copper  per  day. 

The  com})any  own  two  parallel  ledges  of  3,000  feet  each.  Only  one  ledge 
has  as  yet  been  developed  to  any  consideral)le  extent.  Uj)on  this  an  incline  has 
been  sunk  to  the  depth  of  100  feet,  at  which  point  there  are  some  indications  of 
sulphurets  coming  in.  At  the  depth  of  about  50  feet  drifts  have  been  nm  each 
way  from  the  shaft  about  100  feet,  all  the  way  in  good  ore;  vein  varying  from  five 
to  seven  feet  thick.  The  shaft  is  also  connected  with  the  surface  by  a  tunnel, 
through  which  the  ore  will  be  taken  out.  The  outcrop  of  the  vein  has  been 
stripped  quite  a  distance,  developing  good  ore  all  the  way.  The  superintendent 
estimates  that  he  has  5,000  tons  (jf  ore  opened  to  sight,  which  will  average 
a  yitdd  of  25  ])er  cent.     lie  has  lately  taken  out  some  ore  yielding  74  })er  cent. 

Mineral  Hill,  a  locality  near  the  Planet  mine,  has  several  of  tliese  so-called 
lodes,  supposed  to  be  valuable.  The  Sjjringfield  Company  are  now  taking  ore 
from  the  Orion  ;  a  furnace  has  lieen  erected  l)y  Mr.  Know  les.  At  Empire  Flat, 
10  miles  south  of  Williams  Fork,  and  three  miles  from  the  steamboat  landing  on 
the  Colorado,  the  Challenge  mine  has  l)een  worked  for  more  than  a  year,  and 
about  500  tons  of  fair  shipping  mineral  secured.  The  Kangiiroo,  the  Bridal, 
and  other  copper  veins  iiromise  well,  and  ore  lately  worked  by  an  aixastra  from 
a  gold  lode  in  this  vicinity  gave  a  return  of  $85  to  the  ton. 

From  Williams  Fork  to  Fort  ^lohave,  by  the  Colorado,  is  a  distance  of  about 
70  miles.  Just  about  the  fort,  which  was  established  long  prior  to  the  organiza- 
tion of  the  Tenitory,  there  are  no  lodes,  but  in  the  mountain  ranges  east,  and 
north  and  east  of  Ilardyville,  a  town  nine  miles  higher  up  the  river,  are  some 
districts  already  noted  for  their  gold  and  silver  mines. 

The  Sax  Fkanx-isco  District  is  situated  some  12  miles  from  Ilardyville, 
in  a  northeasterly  direction.     A  stream  called  Silver  creek  runs  through  the  dis- 


458  KESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND    TEERITOEIES 

trict  from  iiortli  to  soiitli.     The  features  of  the  district,  which  is  some  20  miles 
long  and  10  miles  wide,  are  thus  given  by  a  recent  wiiter: 

The  bold  outcrop  of  quartz  lodes  stretching  from  east  to  west  may  be  seen  for  a  long  dis- 
tance. Conspicuous  among  these  ledges  is  the  Moss  lode  on  the  north,  the  Skinner  and  Par- 
sons on  the  south.  The  aspect  of  these  ledges  is  singularly  wild  and  rugged,  deviaUng 
seldom  more  than  4-^  or  5^  from  the  east  and  west  magnetic  equators.  There  is  another  set 
of  lodes  much  less  numernus  than  the  first,  whose  general  direction  is  northwest  and  south- 
east, or  more  exactly  north  20°  west.  These  lodes,  if  prolonged,  must  obviously  intersect 
some  of  the  east  and  west  lodes.  They  ditfer  not  only  in  their  course  and  direction,  but  in 
their  mineralogical  consti-uction.  The  tirst  class,  the  east  and  west,  are  quartz  lodes,  charac- 
terized by  the  presence  of  feldspar  and  flourspar  as  ihe  associate  minerals.  The  second  set  of 
lodes  may  be  called  calcareous,  being  composed  to  a  great  extent  of  magnesian  carbonate  of 
lime,  or  dolomite.  In  some  instances  these  have  quartz  linings  and  polished  walls.  The 
Virginia,  Olive  Oatman,  and  Buffalo  are  conspicuous  examples  of  the  calcareous  lodes.  A 
third  class  of  lodes  is  observed  in  the  San  Francisco  district,  whose  direction  is  northeast 
and  southwest.  This  class  is  veiy  small,  not  including  more  than  three  or  four,  named 
the  Pride  of  Mexico,  Trimuverate,  Wright,  and  Morning  Star.  In  general  the  lodes  in  the  San 
Francisco  district  are  remarkably  vertical,  rarelj'  deviating  more  than  30°  from  the  perpen- 
dicular, and  their  outcroppings  are  commonly  Aery  strong  and  well  marked,  forming  in  case 
of  the  upper  lodes  conspicuous  features  in  the  topography  of  the  country. 

The  rocks  of  this  district  are  exclusively  porphyritic  or  volcanic.  The  porphyry  consists 
for  the  most  part  of  the  feldspathic  variety.  The  crystals  of  feldspar  are  implanted  in  a 
violet-colored  mass,  yielding,  like  most  of  the  porphyries  at  Virginia  Cit}',  at  Esmeralda, 
Bodie,  and  in  the  Mojave  desert,  to  atmospheric  influences,  crumbling  into  incoherent  masses, 
or  breaking  away  into  acute  and  fantastic  clifts.  The  gigantic  quartz  lodes,  known  as  the 
Moss  and  the  Skinnei',  contain  imbedded  in  their  mass,  especially  at  their  surface,  fragments 
of  scoriaceous  lavas,  and  present  in  general  a  burned  and  roasted  appearance.  On  the 
Organ  canon  of  the  Mojave  there  are  extinct  cones  of  volcanoes,  whose  streams  of  lava  may 
be  traced  for  eight  or  ten  miles,  standing  with  vertical  basaltic  walls  100  or  200  feet  above 
the  plain,  capped  with  scoria,  whose  surface  still  speaks  of  the  sluggish  nature  of  the  once 
molten  mass. 

The  attention  of  the  mineralogical  observer  is  arrested  by  the  similarity  of  the  lodes  in  this 
region  as  compared  with  those  of  other  districts,  by  the  general  absence  of  metallic  sul- 
phurets,  and  the  carious  or  porous  character  so  common  in  the  outcroppings  of  quartz  iu 
most  auriferous  regions,  and  not  unlike  those  seen  in  some  portions  of  Nevada.  This  char- 
acter of  outcroppings  of  the  quartz  lodes  in  the  Sau  Francisco  district  is  common  to  most 
outcroppings  in  the  porphyritic  or  plutonic  rocks  of  other  mining  districts  in  Arizona,  as  in 
the  districts  of  El  Dorado  canon  and  the  Wauba  Yuma. 

Of  the  contents  of  the  lodes  the  same  writer  has  the  following : 

The  Moss,  Skinner,  and  in  general  the  larger  lodes  of  the  district,  are  characterized  by  the 
presence  of  an  abundance  of  white  feldspar,  forming  sometimes  the  nuiss  of  the  vein  ;  the 
quartz  existing  then  as  a  subordinate  vein  in  the  feldsparic  and  porphyritic  gangue.  The 
mineral  most  characteristic  of  the  east  and  west  lodes  in  the  Sau  Francisco  district,  next  to 
the  quartz  and  feldspar,  which  form  the  great  mass  of  the  lodes,  is  flourspar,  a  mineral  fre- 
quently seen  elsewhere  in  the  world  as  an  associate  in  silver-bearing  lodes — as,  for  example, 
in  Frieburg  in  Saxony — but  which  is  of  rare  occurrence  in  this  country  in  a  similar  asso- 
ciation. 

This  mineral  is  found  abundantly  in  the  Skinner  lode,  the  Dayton,  the  Knickerbocker, 
and  the  Qnackenbush,  and  has  been  observed  in  the  Moss  and  several  others.  It  is  asso- 
ciated in  tliem  with  free  gold,  horn  silver  sometimes  in  dodecahedra  crystals  and  iron  gossary. 
The  outcroppings  of  the  Moss  lode  form  a  most  conspicuous  feature  in  the  landscape,  seea 
standing  up  iu  bold  crests  from  a  long  distance.  This  lode  stretches  in  a  continuous  line  for 
more  than  a  mile,  and  is  claimed  for  double  that  distance.  It  is  distant  north  of  Silver  creek 
about  two  miles ;  its  course  is  about  west  5°  north,  nearly  at  right  angles  from  the  liver, 
from  which  it  is  distant  about  five  miles.  On  the  surface  the  outcrop  shows  a  width  of 
about  50  feet,  rising  to  the  height  of  from  50  to  100  feet  above  the  arroya,  sinking  at  intervals 
to  the  siuface ;  its  height  above  the  Colorado  river  is  about  1,500  feet.  It  has  a  southerly 
dip  of  14^  to  20°  away  from  the  vertical.  The  veiu  material  is  composed  of  whitish  compact 
feldspar  and  tpiartz  poijihyrj-,  intersected  by  veins  of  dense  red,  often  marbled  quartz,  rich 
in  free  gold.  Included  in  this  vast  mass  are  numerous  sets  of  feldspar,  horustone,  and 
quartz  veins,  also  masses  of  gray  porphyry,  tufaceous  and  vesicular  lava. 

The  hanging  wall  of  the  Moss  lode  is  au  ash-gray,  feldspathic  porphyry,  often  intersected 
by  thread-veins  of  quartz  and  hornstone,  barren  of  metallic  sulphurets,  showing  at  the  sur 
face  no  clay  wall,  or  tluccan,  separating  it  from  the  vein.  The  absence  of  this  character  of 
permanent  and  well-defined  lodes  at  the  surface  of  the  Moss  ledge  is  in  analogy  with  the 
character  of  many  veins  iu  Nevada,  whicli,  however,  at  a  moderate  depth  acquire  this 
feature,  as  the  Alien  shaft  shows  to  be  the  fact  for  the  south  or  hanging  wall  of  the  Moss 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  459 

lode.     The  entire  outcrop  of   this  lode  Ims  a  Ininit-U)),  dried  and  hardened  aspect^  but  is 
jtroven  to  he  (piile  sujhm  tii'iiil  l>,v  very  moderatt^  ex])loratiou.s. 

The  bullion  ol>tain''d  f'loui  this  vein  eontaiiis  silver  enuiifrli  to  p^'ivo  it  a  palo,  yellow  color; 
the  gold  appears  in  beantifui  polished  scales,  the  tlat  surl'ace  often  embossed  with  crj'stallino 
lines.  Tiie  precious  metal  is  sometimes  imbedded  in  a  compact  red  jasj)ery  (puirtz,  presentinf^, 
when  cut  and  polished,  beautiful  prajihic  p^oldstone.  This  rich  {;'old-bcariujniass  of  ferrugi- 
nous quart/,  form  the  outcrop  of  this  gigantic  vein  only  at  isolated  ])oints.  These  pliysical 
features  bear  great  resemblance  to  that  portion  of  the  Conistock  vein,  which  is  still  seen  at 
Gold  Hill,  south  of  Virginia  City,  where  similar  rich  deposits  of  low-grade  gold  were  formed 
in  the  quartz  outcrop,  giving  name  to  the  town  which  has  since  si)rung  into  such  wonderful 
activity  us  the  result  of  the  development  of  the  mines  which  have  opened  upou  thi.s  remark- 
able silver  vein.  Assays  of  samples  of  the  Moss  vein  show  a  value  varying  from  §170  to 
several  thousand  dollars  per  ton  of  2,000  pounds.  Of  the  other  lodes  in  this  district,  the 
Skinner,  on  the  south  .side  of  Silver  creek,  is  one  of  the  most  conspicuous,  and,  like  the 
Moss,  show  bold  oiuline  of  outcrop.  Tliis  lode  shows  drusy  quartz,  both  compact  and 
cellular,  and  ferruginous  with  numerous  cavities,  out  of  which  tioursjiar  has  been  decom- 
posed. Small  traces  of  sulphide  are  seen  at  the  surface,  which  is  stained  by  black  oxide  of 
inaganese,  nuiking  portions  of  the  outcrop  quite  black.  This  vein  varies  from  50  to  l.')01eet 
in  thickness.  Its  walls  are  ash-colored,  feldspathic  porphyry,  in  places  beautifully  polished 
on  the  line  of  dip  70°  north.  The  vein  appears  to  be  without  a  lining  of  clay,  but  like  that 
which  is  so  commonly  seen  in  the  outcrops  of  Nevada,  that  it  is  no  proof  of  the  absence  of 
this  important  cliaracteristic  of  a  true  vein  at  a  moderate  depth,  assays  of  ores  from  this 
vein  prove  the  presence  of  silver  to  the  respective  valups  of  ^2o,  $74,  and  .fi8o  to  tlm  ton  of 
2,000  pounds.  The  Parsons,  Hurst,  and  Leland  are  other  gigantic  lodes,  south  of  the 
Skinner.  The  smaller  lodes  of  this  district  seem  to  promise  quicker  returns  for  a  less  expendi- 
ture of  money,  such  as  the  Caledonia  and  Dayton,  a  few  hundred  feet  south  of  the  Moss 
lode,  and  the  Quackenbush  and  Knickerbocker,  some  distance  south  of  the  Skinner  and 
Parsons.  These  veins  are  from  three  to  ten  feet  in  thickness,  well  defined,  and  showing  at 
the  surface  all  the  characters  of  true  metalliferous  veins.  Samples  from  these  outcrops 
yielded  in  a  mill  from  $40  to  $250  per  ton. 

Mr.  A.  E.  Davis,  of  Hardy villc,  lias  furnislied  some  notes  descriptive  of  the 
Moss,  Parsons,  and  several  other  lodes  in  the  San  Francisco  district,  which  are 
given  with  a  slight  condensation  : 

The  3Ioss  Lode  Avas  among  the  first  discovered  in  this  district,  and  is  perhaps 
the  best  known.  The  vein  is  well  defined  for  a  dista^ice  of  two  miles.  The 
rock  is  dark  colored  and  iron  stained,  the  country  rock  is  porphpy,  the  hanging 
wall  smooth  and  hard.  Some  remarkable  specimens  of  gold  ore  have  been 
taken  from  this  lode.  In  blasting,  in  some  instances,  pieces  have  been  torn  out 
yellow  with  gold,  and  the  face  of  the  lode  has  shown  streaks  of  the  precious 
metal.  It  is  not  surprising  that  the  owners  have  held  their  claims  as  high  as 
$300  per  foot.  The  gold  is  of  a  bright  color,  and  usually  found  in  layers  as 
thin  as  paper,  which  makes  it  more  showy  than  abundant ;  the  lode,  however, 
promises  well.  There  are  several  shafts,  and  recently  a  tunnel  300  feet  in  length 
has  pierced  the  vein  at  a  depth  of  150  feet,  where  the  vein  is  wide,  and  consid- 
erable gold  was  found,  but  fine  and  scattered.  The  tunnel  enters  the  vein  at 
right  angles,  and  after  reaching  it  follows  it  west  for  300  feet,  where  a  shaft 
descends  from  the  surface.  All  the  rock  taken  out  bears  gold,  and  the  vein, 
from  a  width  ctf  five  feet  at  the  surface,  increases  at  the  greatest  dei)th  reached. 

A  10-stamp  mill  was  erected  at  Ilardyville  a  few  months  since,  and  about  250 
tons  of  the  ore  have  been  worked,  but  the  result  is  not  announced.  The  cost 
of  mining  is  $5  per  ton  ;  of  hauling  to  the  mill  the  same. 

TIic  I'arsoris  Lode. — This  lode  runs  east  and  west,  and  can  be  traced  by  neat 
■wall  of  croppings  for  a  distance  of  two  and  a  half  miles.  The  vein  rock  is 
chiefly  a  gray  quartz,  accompanied  by  tlonrspar.  The  country  rock  is  blue  and 
birds-eye  porphyry.  The  lode  is  from  5  to  12  feet  in  width.  There  are  several 
claims  upon  it,  those  best  known  being  the  youthern  Cross  and  Queen  ol  the 
Pacific.  Ujam  the  latter  a  tunnel  of  210  feet  in  length,  along  the  lode,  has 
been  cut. 

Crossing-,  or  rather  iiunnng  into,  the  Parsons  lode  at  nearly  right  angles  is  a 
lode  known  as  the  Michigan.     The  vein  is  about  three  feet  thick,  and  a  few  tons 


460  EESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

of  tlie  surface  ore  worked  in  an  arrastra  gave  a  yield  of  $70  to  tlie  ton  in  gold ; 
the  tailings  since  worked  yielded  $80  to  the  ton  in  silver. 

What  is  now  known  as  the  Southern  Cross,  or  Hardy  mine,  is  a  location  of 
1,800  feet  on  the  Parsons  lode  and  of  ]  ,600  feet  on  the  Michigan  lode.  The  Par- 
sons is  probably  the  «iother  lode  of  the  vicinity.  Beginning  at  the  eastern 
terminus  of  the  Hardy  location,  at  a  largo  wash,  the  lode  takes  its  course  west 
over  an  eminence,  say  4C0  feet  higher  than  at  the  starting  point,  and  this  in  a 
distance  of  about  1,000  feet.  The  lode  is  favorably  situated  for  tunnelling,  and 
several  tunnels  are  already  well  advanced.  A  shaft  between  the  two  principal 
tunnels  is  now  down  some  80  feet,  following  the  vein;  it  will  need  to  be  200 
feet  deep  in  order  to  reach  the  depth  of  the  tunnels.  The  shaft  is  five  and  a 
half  feet  wide,  but  it  does  not  occupy  the  whole  vein.  One  hundred  tons  of  the 
ore  taken  during  the  past  summer  from  this  shaft  and  from  other  cuts,  and 
worked  in  the  ]\Ioss  mill,  gave  a  return  of  $18  to  the  ton,  while  the  assays  of  the 
pulp  from  the  battery  gave  about  $35  to  the  ton.  This  experiment  is  not  con- 
sidered, owing  to  a  want  of  proper  facilities  in  the  mill,  an  accurate  test  of 
what  the  ore  will  produce  under  proper  working.  The  owner  of  the  claim,  Mr. 
Hardy,  is  pushing  the  tunnels  and  shafts  forward,  and  is  confident  tliat  he  has  a 
good  mine.  He  has  already'  expended  $40,000  in  opening  it,  and  will  soon 
erect  a  mill  at  Hardyville. 

The  Lcland  Lode,  in  this  district,  runs  east  and  west,  and  is  about  five  feet  in 
width.  The  rock  bears  gold  and  silver,  the  former  predominating.  The  gold 
is  fine  and  evenly  diffused  through  the  rock.  A  tunnel  150  feet  in  length  strikes 
the  lode  at  the  depth  of  50  feet,  where  the  quartz  is  as  good  as  at  the  surface. 

The  Mitchell  Lode  runs  east  and  west,  with  a  slight  dip  to  the  north  ;  has  good 
walls,  and  the  vein  is  from  three  to  six  feet  in  width,  of  quartz  and  flourspar. 
A  vein  of  quartz  of  a  bluish  color,  varj'ing  in  width  from  one  to  two  and  a  half 
feet,  runs  the  whole  traceable  length  of  the  lode,  and  prospects  well  in  gold. 
For  my  own  satisfaction  (sa^^s  M;^.  Davis)  I  took  from  this  vein  10  pounds  of 
quartz,  a  fair  sample,  and  pulverized  it  in  a  hand  mortar,  when,  washing  it  in  a 
pan,  it  jnelded  at  the  rate  of  $150  per  ton  in  gold.  But  little  work  has  been 
pei-fomied  upon  the  lode,  owing  to  a  want  of  means  and  to  Indian  troubles. 

The  Sacramento  District. — Next  to  the  San  Francisco,  the  Sacramento 
is  the  best  known  of  the  districts  adjacent  to  Fort  ]Mohave  and  Hard3'ville.  It 
is  some  30  miles  northeast  of  the  latter  plaac,  and  abounds  in  veins,  several 
of  which  have  been  opened.  This  district  is  tolerably  well  watered,  having 
three  or  four  small  running  streams  and  a  number  of  springs.  The  water  is, 
with  the  exception  of  two  or  three  springs,  of  an  excellent  character.  Pine  and 
cedar  timber  are  abundant,  and  the  whole  district  is  rich  in  nutritious  grasses,  and 
arable  hinds  are  near  at  hand.  The  mines  are  chiefiy  ol"  argentiferous  galena, 
and  show  well  in  gold  and  silv^er.  There  are  also  some  co})per  veins  showing 
free  gold.     A  correspondent  has  furnished  the  following  list : 

Neptune  Lode. — This  lode  shows  a  vein  S(>ven  feet  wide,  with  walls  of  slate 
and  granite.  A  shaft  has  been  sunk  to  the  depth  of  150  feet.  The  ore  shows 
both  gold  and  silver. 

Silccr  Udl  Lode,  argentiferous  galena;  a  shaft  100  feet  deep;  vein  fom-  feet 
wide. 

Alcran^s  I^ode,  gold  and  silver ;  shaft  Q>5  feet  deep ;  vein  three  feet  wide. 

Mohave  Chief  Lode,  gold  and  silver;  shaft  45  feet;  vein  six  feet  wide. 

Antictam  Lode,  copper ;  shaft  40  feet ;  vein  three  feet  wide,  two  feet  of  which 
is  ore  yielding  from  40  to  80  per  cciiit.  There  are  also  rich  traces  of  gold  and 
silver. 

Blue  Bell  Lode,  gold  and  silver ;  shaft  24  feet ;  vein  two  feet  wide. 

Darhij  Lode,  gold  and  silver  shaft  26  feet ;  vein  two  feet  wide. 

Daniel  Webster  Lode,  gold  and  silver;  two  shafts  20  feet  each;  vein  three  feet 
wide. 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  461 

Atlanta  Loile,  argent iferouts  galena;  shaft  22  foot;  vein  three  feet  wide. 

Union  Lode,  argentiferous  galena;  shaft  13  feet;  vein  eight  feet  wide,  show- 
ing a  mass  of  mineral. 

The  Wauba  Yuma  Distkict  is  upon  the  road  to  Prescott,  and  some  50 
miles  from  the  Colorado. 

Here  (stiys  a  writer  describing  the  district)  seems  to  be  an  entire  c,ban<Te  in  the  geological 
formation  ;  tlie  porpliyritic  and  volcanic  rocks  giving  a  place  to.mt'tamorpbic  scbists,  gneiss, 
and  granitic  rocks  abonnding  \vitb  inunerous  veins  of  quartz,  and  is  accompanied  by  a  cor- 
responding clmnge  in  tlio  character  and  direction  of  tbe  mineral  veins  Near  the  western 
margin  of  the  Wauba  Yuma  district  occurs  a  considerable  vein  of  auriferous  quartz,  accom- 
panied by  ores  of  copper  and  sulphurets  of  iron.  It  is  located  in  a  high  granitic  mountain; 
it  i^  called  the  "  Pride  of  the  Pines,''  and  appears  to  be  about  10  feet  in  width,  possessing 
promising  characteristics  common  to  the  auriferous  lodes  of  tho  Sierra  Nevada,  and  has  the 
same  northwest  and  southeast  direction.  Enormous  dikes  or  roofs  of  quartz,  and  of  course 
quartz  ore,  feldspathic  granite,  cut  through  the  reddish  gueissoid  granite  which  forms  the  base- 
ment rock  over  a  large  partof  the  Wauba  Yuma  district.  Upon  these  gigantic  quartz  ledges 
no  exploration  has  been  made,  nor  is  there  evidence  of  much  metallic  value  in  them. 

There  is  some  timber  in  this  district,  chiefly  pine,  oak,  and  walnut,  and  it  is 
well  supplied  with  water  and  grass. 

The  Frlde  of  the  Pines  lode  has  a  shaft  36  feet  in  depth,  and  shows  a  vein 
three  feet  wide,  in  which  there  is  considerable  free  gold  and  some  traces  of  silver. 

The  Ben  FranJdin  lode  has  a  shaft  22  feet  deep,  and  shows  a  vein  four  feet 
wide,  with  gold  and  silver. 

The  El  Uonifo,  JIcAnneni/,  Florence,  McClcllan,  Mountain  Lily,  liuhicon, 
and  ^Villia)n  21.  Lent  lodes  in  this  district  are  well  spoken  of,  and  a  company 
has  been  funned  in  Xew  York  to  develop  them. 

El  Dorado  caJiOn,  upon  the  west  bank  of  the  Colorado,  some  40  miles  north 
of  Hardy ville,  is  the  centre  of  a  silver  district,  in  which  a  number  of  lodes  ha-^^e 
been  located  and  several  of  them  worked.  Two  mills  were  erected  several  years 
since. 

TJie  TclmtticKjp  lode  is  seven  feet  wide,  well  defined,  and  yields  good  ore.  Four 
hundred  tons  crushed  averaged  870  to  the  ton. 

The  Queen  City,  Indian  Queen,  and  other  lodes  have  a  good  reputation. 

This  part  of  Arizona  has,  by  a  vote  of  Congress,  been  set  oif  to  the  State 
of  Nevada,  but  its  inhabitants  protest  against  the  change,  and  the  legislature  of 
Arizona  has  unanimously  memorialized  Congress  to  reconsider  its  vote. 

Gexekal  Remakks  ox  the  Colorado  River  Country. — Although  not 
well  known  until  long  after  southern  Arizona  had  been  explored,  and  not  yet 
fully  prospected,  the  valley  of  the  great  Colorado  is  entitled  to  some  considera- 
tion as  a  mining  region.  The  temperature  is  much  like  that  of  southern  Arizona, 
and  the  region  is  about  as  well  wooded  and  watered.  The  timber  is  chiefly 
niesquite  and  iron  wood,  and  foimd  in  the  ravines  and  gulches.  There  is,  also, 
considerable  Cottonwood  along  the  Colorado  and  its  triljutaries,  and  for  mining 
use  and  fuel  the  drift-wood  annually  swept  down  the  Colorado  furnishes  an 
acceptable  supply. 

The  agricultm-al  lands  of  the  Colorado  region  are  less  extensive  than  those  of 
eouthern  Arizona,  but  where  they  are  Ibund  they  are  mellow  and  fertile.  Tho 
Yuma,  3Iohave,  and  Chimahueva  Indians,  friendly  tribes,  cultivate  them  with 
success,  and  gardens  laid  out  near  La  Vaz,  Arizona  City,  jMohave,  and  Ilardy- 
villo  by  the  white  settlers  have  produced  abundantly.  The  broad  plains  lying 
between  La  Paz  and  Weaver  and  Wickenburg  only  need  water  to  be  made  i^ro- 
ductive,  and  this  it  is  thought  can  be  supplied  by  artesian  wells. 

There  are  various  opinions  regarding  the  navigation  of  the  Colorado.  Small 
steamers  have  for  some  years  delivered  freight  at  La  Paz  and  Ilardyville,  and 
many  persons  consider  the  latter  place  the  practical  head  of  navigation,  but  of 
late  several  trips  have  been  made  to  Callville,  and  it  is  asserted  that  tho  river  is 
navigable  to  that  point.  The  difficulties  and  delays  are  serious  obstacles,  but  it 
is  thought  they  may  be  overcome.     Callville  is  some  600  miles  from  the  mouth 


462        RESOUPX'ES  OF  STATES  AND  TERRITORIES 

of  tlie  Colorado,  and  tlic  roads  to  Salt  Lake  City,  a  distance  of  about  400  miles, 
are  easy  and  safe.  It  is  believed  that  the  river  may  be  improved  so  as  to  render 
navigation  to  Callville  practicable  in  a  commercial  point  of  view,  especially 
when  boats  such  as  are  used  upon  the  upper  Missouri,  and  upon  the  Tennessee 
and  Cumberland  rivers,  ai'e  introduced.  In  the  event  of  success,  trade  will  be 
made  one  of  large  profit,  not  onl}^  securing  the  transportation  of  great  quanti- 
ties of  silver  and  copper. ores,  but  of  supplies  for  all  of  Arizona  north  of  the 
Gila,  for  Utah,  and  for  parts  of  JMontana.  The  merchants  of  San  Francisco, 
conceding  the  importance  of  the  river  as  a  channel  of  trade,  have  lately  held 
several  meetings  to  encourage  navigation,  and  to  call  general  attention  to  the 
j^racticability  of  the  same. 

At  a  meeting  of  the  merchants  of  San  Francisco  held  September  27,  18G7, 
G.  W.  Gilmorc,  esq.,  submitted  the  following  report  of  observations  upon  the 
Colorado  river,  chicfl}^  made  during  the  trip  of  the  steamer  Esmeralda,  Captain 
Rogers,  in  November,  1866  : 

Port  Isabf-l  to  Fort  Yuma. — For  the  whole  of  this  distance  the  river  runs  throiig'h  an 
open  country,  presenting  on  either  side  wide  stretches  of  bottom  lands,  covered  with  vegeta- 
tion and  abundantly  supplied  with  timber,  mostly  cottonwood,  willow  and  mesquite.  The 
Indians  who  live  along  the  river  cultivate  the  land  to  some  extent,  producing  good  crops  of 
Indian  corn,  squashes,  melons,  beans,  tomatoes,  and  other  vegetables.  Occasionally  a  little 
barley  and  wheat  are  planted,  which  always  appear  to  yield  well. 

About  60  miles  above  Fort  Isabel,  tule  lands  commence,  extending  along  the  river  on  either 
side  for  a  distance  of  20  or  25  miles,  and  back  from  the  river  to  a  great  widtli — on  the  west 
shore  said  to  be  in  places  20  or  30  miles  in  Avidth.  These  tule  lands  are  dvy  enough  for  cul- 
tivation, and  bold  out  promise  of  great  fertility.  Above  the  tules  the  land  is  again  higher, 
like  that  below,  covered  with  vegetation  and  trees,  and  more  or  less  cultivated  by  the  Indians 
up  to  Fort  Yuma. 

For  the  whole  of  these  17.5  miles  the  river  has  a  very  crooked  and  winding  course,  aver- 
agir-g  in  width  probably  half  a  mile;  and  this  average  width,  it  may  be  here  remarked,  it 
retains  for  the  entire  distance  up  to  Ca'lville,  varied  from  time  to  time  by  bars  and  bends, 
or  by  its  passage  throngli  nftiuntain  canons  and  rocky  obstructions. 

The  tide  ebbs  and  fl<j\vs  for  AO  or  35  miles  above  Port  Isabel  in  ordinary  stages  of  the  river, 
and  for  this  distance  on  the  flood  tide  salt  water  is  found. 

At  the  rise  of  water  the  river  will  perhaps,  on  the  average  between  Fort  Yuma  and  tho 
mouth,  be  five  to  six  ieet  above  low  water  level — the  rise  lessening  towards  Port  Isabel. 

The  channel,  sometimes  on  one  shore,  sometimes  on  the  other,  has  a  width  varying  from 
cue-eighth  to  one-third  of  a  mile,  and  a  depth  of  from  four  and  a  half  to  eight  feet.  The 
only  obstructions  of  note  in  the  entire  distance  to  Fort  Yuma  are  two  sand-bars,  which  at 
times  have  not  oA-er  two  feet  of  water  upon  them,  and  are  frequently,  in  low  stages  of  water, 
consequently  troublesome.  It  often  happens  that  thes'^  bars  are  washed  away  and  changed 
suddenly  by  the  ciu'ient.  In  one  instance,  during  a  single  night,  a  bar  with  but  two  feet  of 
water  upon  it  disappeared,  and  10  feet  of  water  were  found  next  day  in  its  place. 

Fort  Yuai.v  to  La  Paz. — The  river  continues  ver^'  crooked,  having  about  the  same  aver- 
age width  and  depth  of  channel.  There  are  perhaps  tiiree  bars  which  may  be  called  bad  iu 
low  water,  though  these  are  frequently  cut  away  by  the  current  so  as  to  have  plenty  of  water 
upon  them. 

At  high  stages  of  water  great  changes  take  place  in  the  channel.  The  banks  arc  of  light- 
colored  adobe  soil;  they  A\eie  in  sonic  places  during  last  season's  unusually  high  water  cut 
away  for  a  nnlc  directly  into  the  land,  changing  the  course  of  the  river  to  that  extent,  but 
leaving  a  new  channel  quite  eqmil  to  the  old.  This  cutting  occurs  at  bends  of  the  river  in 
the  bottom  lands,  which,  as  below  Fort  Yuma,  are  covered  with  vegetation  and  timber;  the 
trees  of  the  varieties  already  named  are  suitable  for  fuel,  and  are  of  very  rapid  growth.  It 
is  found  that  tipoii  new  lauds  I'urau'd  by  the  cuttings  of  the  river  cottonwood,  willow,  and 
mesquite  trees  will  be  produced  iu  three  years  large  enough  to  cut  for  fuel. 

Fertile  bottom  lands  extend  with  little  interruption  along  the  banks  of  the  river  from  Fort 
Yuma  to  the  liarriers — theliist  rapids  oti  the  river,  situated  about  half-way  to  La  Paz.  Here 
a  range  i>f  broken  monnUiins  approaches  the  river  on  either  side,  and  its  channel  passes 
between  high  rocks,  which  contract  it  and  give  it  a  current  more  rapid  and  difficult  to  make 
head  against  than  any  other  rapid  on  the  river  excepting  the  Roaring  rapids.  At  the  Bar- 
riers there  arc^  two  channels.  The  one  used  at  low  water  is  about  100  feet  wide  at  that  stage, 
the  current  flowing  through  smooth,  deep,  and  very  rapid.  The  rapids  are  short,  probably 
500  yards,  more  or  less.     The  other  channel,  used  when  the  river  is  up,  is  wider  and  easier. 

After  passing  the  Barriers,  the  mesa,  an  elevated  gravelly  plateau,  generally  barren,  nearly 
up  to  the  river  in  manj-  places,  breaking  the  bottom  lands,  and  forming  the  banks  for  spaces 
sometimes  of  half  a  mile,  at  others  ot  two  or  three  miles  along  its  course.  Occasionally  the  mesa 
will  form  one  shore  of  the  river  for  a  mile  or  two,  Avhile  on  the  other  will  be  a  fine  open  bot- 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    JIOUNTAINS.  463 

toni.^  This  mesa,  wlipvp  it  strikes  tbc  river,  is  usunlly  20  to  30  feet  above  tbn  water.  Tt  is 
never  overtlowed,  niul  chirinp  tbe  mosquito  season  the  Indians  live  upon  it  to  avoid  those 
insects,  whicli  are  exceediusrly  troublesome  ujion  the  lower  lands.  AH  the  way  from  Fort 
Yuma  to  La  I'az  the  mesa  eau  be  seen  from  the  river  in  tbe  distance,  Ijorderinp:  the  bottom 
lands,  tlioujrh  at  times  it  seems  to  bo  If)  or  20  miles  distant.  The  botton  lauds  prevail 
throug:hout  tbe  distance  of  17.">  miles,  probably  covering:  two-thirds  of  the  way.  They  are 
similar  to  lliose  below  Fi>rt  Yuma,  as  before  mentioned,  and  are  to  some  extent  inhabited 
and  culrivaled  by  the  Indians,  whose  villapjes  are  occasionally  seen  ahuifj  tlu'  river  shore. 
Trees  are  quite  abundant  for  most  of  the  distance,  and  plenty  of  fuel  to  be  bad.  Fuel  cut 
by  the  Indians  is  not  very  {rood,  as  they  usually  take  only  dead  trees  or  driitwood,  instead 
of  cuttiu<rlive  trees  and  pilinc:  the  wood  to  dry.  Driftwood  upon  the  lower  river  is  mostly 
of  tbe  lijjliter  woods  that  grow  there  ;  while  upon  the  upper  waters  it  is  of  wood  having  good 
substance  for  fuel. 

Above  the  Barriers  is  the  well-kuown  rancho  of  William  Rhodes,  extending  IG  miles  along 
tbe  east  bank  of  the  river.  The  land  is  cultivated  to  a  small  extent,  and  sustains  large  num- 
bers of  cattle  which  thrive  remarkably  well. 

L.\  Pa/  to  Mohave  Canon. — The  character  of  the  river  is  a  little  changed  in  these  100 
miles.  It  has  a  width  of  from  one-eighth  to  one-third  of  a  mile,  and  a  depth  ranging  from 
four  and  a  half  to  eight  feet,  with  occasional  bars  having,  say,  30  inches  of  water  upon 
them.  It  is  nnich  less  crooked  than  below.  There  is  generally  a  good  wid(>  channel  with 
a  pretty  rapid  current,  and  occasionally  a  short  bend  wliich,  at  high  water,  will  cause  a 
powerful  eddy,  a  little  dangerous  for  a  steamboat  of  insufUcieut  power.  There  is,  however, 
no  broken  water,  and  no  dangerous  rocks  are  to  be  found. 

The  valley  described  in  the  last  section  extends,  with  little  change  of  character,  np  to 
Mohave  canon.  About  30  miles  above  La  Paz  the  Chimalmeva  mountains  approach  to 
within  a  couple  of  miles  of  the  shores  of  the  river,  with  a  line  open  country  lying  about 
their  base.  In  these  mountains  are  copper  mines  which  promise  to  become  very  productive 
wiieuever  work  upon  them,  now  suspended,  shall  be  resumed.  After  passing  Williams  Fork, 
situated  about  80  miles  above  La  Paz,  there  is  a  distance  of  13  or  20  miles  to  Mohave  canon, 
through  which  the  river  passes,  cutting  its  way  for  eight  or  nine  miles  through  a  high  range 
of  mountains  ;  flowing  partly  between  immense  precipices-of  rock,  rising  nearly  perpendic- 
ular from  its  sides,  and  partly  between  masses  of  broken  rocks  and  mountains.  The  chau- 
nel,  however,  is  of  good  width  and  depth,  free  from  dangerous  rocks,  and  with  deep  water 
close  up  to  the  rocky  shores,  against  which  a  steamboat's  guards  will  touch  while  the  hull  is 
in  clear  water,  free  from  projecting  points  of  rock.  Tliis  feature  is  constantly  to  be  observed 
npou  the  Colorado  in  places  where  it  passes  between  shores  of  rock,  and  is  a  most  favorable 
circumstance  for  steamboat  navigation. 

MoHAVK  Canon  to  IIaruyville. — Above  the  caiion  the  valley  again  presents  itself, 
difVeriug  little  in  cha.racter  until  reaching  Fort  ilohave,  about  30  miles  above.  For  this  dis- 
tance the  bottom  lauds  prevail,  bordered  in  the  distance  by  the  mesa,  whicli  occasionally 
comes  up  and  skirts  the  river  for  short  distances  and  then  again  recedes,  leaving  long,  wide 
stretches  of  low  lands  covered  with  vegetation,  and  producing  the  same  timber  as  that  found 
lower  down  the  river.  Upon  the  east  side  of  the  river  a  few  Mohave  ludiaus  are  scattered  ; 
on  the  west,  a  small  number  of  the  Chimahucva  tribe.  There  is  a  great  deal  of  fiue  farming 
land  lying  between  the  canon  and  the  fort,  some  of  which  is  already  occupied  by  Americans. 
Here  was  located  the  Philadelphia  rancho,  occupying  several  miles  along  the  east  side  of  the 
river.  Of  this  rancho  a  large  part  has  been  washed  away  and  lost  by  the  cutting  out  of  the 
river  during  the  past  two  seasons. 

Alter  passing  Fort  Mohave  the  shores  change.  Low  mesas,  producing  a  little  vegetation, 
form  the  banks  upon  both  sides  of  the  river,  except  when  occasionally  broken  by  small  bot- 
toms of  good  land,  some  ot  them  occupied  by  a  few  Indians.  Scarcely  any  timber  is  seen 
upon  the  river  from  the  fort  up  to  Cottonwood  island.  What  little  formerly  grew  upon  this 
part  of  the  river  has  been  mostly  cut  off. 

For  the  60  miles  from  Mohave  canon  to  Ilardyville  there  is  nothing  serious  to  impede 
navigation.  The  river  is  much  straighter  than  in  the  loAver  parts,  and  has  no  sharp  bends 
and  no  bad  bars.  lu  some  places  a  strong  current  is  encountered,  but  there  is  nothing  to 
stop  a  steamboat.  The  average  width  of  the  river  continues  about  half  a  mile.  The  chan- 
nel in  width  and  depth  is  about  the  same  as  that  described  in  the  lower  part  of  the  river. 

IIaruvvii.le  to  Cottonwood  I.sland.— The  shores  continue  of  low  mesas  on  each 
side.  There  is  very  little  timber  to  be  seen.  Here  and  there  is  a  small  opening  of  arable 
land,  breaking  the  line  of  the  mesa.  A  few  Indians  of  the  Mohave  and  Chimahueva  tribes 
are  found  upon  the  banks.  The  country  generally  presents  a  poor  and  barren  aspect,  but 
in  a  few  places  ujion  the  small  bottoms  farms  might  be  cultivated.  A  trifling  amount  of 
firewood  can  yet  be  had  upon  this  portion  of  the  river. 

For  this  distance  the  river  may  be  said  to  be  quite  straight.  Its  bends  are  long  and  easy, 
and  it  oflers  every  facility  for  navigation.  The  few  bars  found  have  .sufficient  water  upon 
them  even  at  low  stages.  Some  places  are  to  be  passed  where  there  is  a  quick  current,  but 
there  is  no  obstruction  to  navigation  until  the  head  of  Cottonwood  island  is  reached.  At 
this  place  there  is  a  sand-bar  upon  which  the  depth  of  water  frequently  changes,  and  which 
is  said  might  sometimes  in  low  water  prove  troublesome.     When  the  Esmeralda  crossed  it 


464  EESOUECfiS    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

there  were  five  feet  of  water  upon  it,  and  that  at  a  low  stage  of  the  river.  The  riv#  con- 
tinues about  half  a  mile  in  average  width,  and  the  channel  about  the  same  in  depth  and 
width  as  in  the  lower  river — ranging  say  from  four  and  one-half  to  eight  feet  deep  in  most 
places. 

Cottonwood  island,  about  10  miles  long  by  an  average  of  about  three  miles  wide,  is  a  fine, 
level  island,  fertile  and  covered  with  grass,  and  having  considerable  timber.  Claiais  are 
said  to  have  been  located  upon  the  land,  but  it  is  yet  unoccupied.  On  the  main  land  on 
both  sides  of  the  river  opposite  Cottonwood  island  are  fine  bottom  lands,  with  good  grass. 

A  large  quantity  of  driftwood  of  superior  kind  far  fuel,  composed  mainly  of  pitch-pine  and 
cedar,  every  year  lodges  at  the  head  and  along  the  sides  of  the  island — sufficient,  perhaps, 
alone,  if  taken  care  of,  to  furnish  the  fuel  for  years  to  steamboats  passing  on  the  Callville 
route.  An  immense  quantity  of  this  wood  was  upon  the  island,  estimated  at  several  thou- 
sand cords.  The  entire  head  of  the  island  seemed  to  be  formed  of  trunks  of  trees  and  sand 
washed  in  between  them.  The  driftwood  consists  of  trees,  much  broken  up,  of  various 
sizes,  not  usually  exceeding  14  inches  in  diameter. 

Cottonwood  Island  to  Callville. — In  these  60  miles  are  found  the  following  points 
of  interest : 

Round  island,  four  miles  above  Cottonwood  island. 

El  Dorado  canon,  five  or  six  miles  above  Round  island 10  miles. 

The  cave,  five  miles  from  £1  Dorado  canon 15  " 

Roaring  rapids,  two  or  three  miles  above  the  cave 18  " 

[Explorers'  rock  is  six  miles  above  Roaring  rapids.] 

Black  caiion,  20  miles  above  Roaring  rapids 38  '• 

Callville, '20  or  2*2  miles  above  Black  caiiou 60  " 

From  Cottonwood  island  toRoimd  island,  (four  miles,)  there  is  nothing  serious  to  impede 
navigation.     The  channel  is  good,  though  occasionally  soino  "strong  water"  is  met  with. 

At  the  point  where  El  Dorado  caiion  empties  into  the  Colorado,  (five  miles  above  Round 
island,)  mountains  and  high  broken  lands  commence,  and  continue  to  border  the  river  until 
the  Black  canon  is  passed,  a  distance  of  probably  28  or  30  miles. 

From  Round  island  to  El  Dorado  canon,  (five  or  six  miles,)  the  channel  continues  goo^, 
and  without  obstruction,  except  occasional  "  swift  places"  of  no  great  moment. 

After  passing  El  Dorado  canon,  and  until  Roaring  rapids  are  reached,  (a  distance  of  about 
eight  miles, )  the  channel  continues  good,  with  smooth  water,  but  a  quicker  cunent.  No 
impediment  is  found  here  that  could  be  at  all  serious  in  any  stage  of  the  water  until  arrival 
at  the  famous  Roaring  rapids. 

These  rapids  are  caused  by  bars,  composed  of  rock,  gravel,  and  boulders,  which  make  out 
obliquely  from  each  side  of  the  river  toward  the  centre.  The  current  striking  these  bars  is 
deflected  with  a  strong  swell  or  roll  from  eacii  bank  towards  the  middle  of  the  channel.  These 
swells  cause  the  water  to  break  where  they  meet,  and  the  water  has  then  a  straight  rapid 
shoot  down  the  contracted  channel  in  the  middle  of  the  river.  With  the  lead  no  bottom  could 
be  found  in  the  rapids.  The  water  appeared  very  deep,  probably  as  much  as  30  feet.  The 
rapid  water  may  be  altogether  oliO  yards  in  extent,  but  of  this  the  great  obstruction  is  found 
in  only  200  to  300  feet;  there  the  straight  rapid  shoot  above  described  is  located.  In  these 
200  to  300  feet  the  descent  of  the  water  is  plainly  perceptible  to  the  eye.  By  the  use  of  a 
water-level  it  was  found  to  fall  in  the  neighborhood  of  four  feet  in  the  distance  named.  There 
is  a  rock  here  standing  about  five  feet  out  of  water,  which  is  ])robably  covered  when  the  river 
is  high,  but  is  easily  avoided,  and  in  fact  it  would  be  dltficult  to  run  upon  it,  as  the  swell  and 
the  coiu'se  of  the  current  would  set  a  boat  away  from  it. 

To  pass  the  200  to  300  feet  of  rapid  broken  water  described,  the  Esmeralda  placed  a  ring- 
bolt in  the  rocks  above,  (the  only  ring-bolt  used  on  the  trip,)  and  ran  a  line  800  feet  in  length 
to  it.  This  line  was  taken  to  the  steam  capstan  on  the  single  juirchase,  and  the  steamboat 
was  run  up  the  800  feet  to  the  ring-bolt  in  seven  ntinutes  easily,  and  without  apparent  strain. 
For  perhaps  threc-lburtlis  of  the  800  feet  the  steamboat  slowly  backed  her  wheel  to  keep  her 
head  right.  ^ 

After  rniming  the  Esmeralda  up,  the  lino  was  taken  to  the  loaded  barge,  which  was  hauled 
up  in  about  30  minutes,  using  the  three-ibld  purchase  upon  the  capstan.  At  this  time  the 
river  was  at  a  low  stage,  probably  nearly  as  low  as' it  usually  gets. 

From  Roaring  ra])ids  to  Black  canon,  (about  20  miles,)  there  are  a  number  of  rapids.  Of 
these  only  three  arc  of  any  consequoiice,  and  in  them  the  water  scarcely  breaks  at  all.  At 
the  rapids  the  shores  were  always  rocky,  but  there  was  ample  width  in  the  channel  to  clear  all 
rocks,  which  were  g(>nerally  above  water.  Explorers'  rock,  situated  in  this  portion  of  the 
river,  is  near  mid-cliannel,  and  is  seldom  or  never  seen  above  water.  Its  position,  however, 
is  well  known,  and  there  is  little  danger  from  it,  as  there  is  about  100  feot  of  clear  channel- 
way  on  cither  side  of  it,  and  the  river  luns  with  a  still  slow  current. 

Black  canon,  from  its  entrance  to  its  termination,  is  from  8  to  10  miles  in  length.  In  the 
canon  the  river  has  an  average  width  of  perhaps  200  feet.  It  is  here  a  still  deep  stream, 
flowing  smoothly,  but  not  very  rapidly,  between  bold  rocks,  which,  for  a  large  part  of  the 
way,  rise  in  precipitous  walls  to  an  immense  height  above  the  water.  The  channel  is  free 
from  rocks  from  shore  to  shore,  and  has  no  sudden  or  short  tunis.     The  Esmeralda  towed 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   IMOITNTAINS.  465 

the  barpc  through  the  cauon,  not  running  »  lino  more  than  onco  or  twice,  and  that  only  to 
save  fuel. 

Leaving  Black  canon,  the  country  again  becomes  open,  with  occasional  bottom  lands  and 
grass  on  either  aide,  up  to  Vegas  Wash,  six  or  eight  miles  distant.  The  river  resumes  its 
average  width  of  about  half  a  mile;  it  runs  with  smooth  water,  but  ii  strong  current,  to  make 
bead  against  which  the  Esmeralda  constantly  run  lines.  The  lines  were,  however,  only  used 
to  economize  luel.  which  nnist  have  been  freely  used  to  propel  the  boat  against  the  quick 
current.  Only  the  single  capstan  was  used.  No  bars  or  rapids  were  found  between  Black 
canon  and  Vegas  Wash.  The  clniuuel  w  as  in  width  and  depth  about  equal  to  that  of  tho 
lower  river.     A  small  tribe  of  Indians  live  along  the  baidis  of  the  river. 

From  ^'egas  Wash  toCallville,  {\2  to  15  miles,)  the  Colorado  has  a  smooth  slack  current, 
anil  (ilenty  of  water.  Tlie  coimtry  along  the  river  is  mostly  mesa  and  sand,  but  with  con- 
siderable land  tliat  seemed  tit  for  cultivation.  A  few  Indians  are  living  upon  this  section. 
Tliere  is  scarcely  any  tinvber  growing  from  Black  canon  toCallville,  (what  was  seen  was  wil- 
low and  mesquite,)  but  a  little  drift-wood  lodges  along  the  banks  tor  the  whole  distance. 
Besides  what  the  Esmeralda  used,  she  left  about  enough  of  this  drift-wood  for  one  more 
tiip  up. 

Nothing  was  seen  of  the  Colorado  above  Callville.  Information  obtained  showed  that  a  steam- 
boat might  possibly  be  taken  up,  with  difficulty,  to  a  point  ;5l>  miles  higher,  but  that  llicre, 
owing  to  the  crooks  in  the  river,  she  would  be  but  eight  miles  distant  in  a  straight  line  by  laud 
from  Callville.  Mr.  iSmith,  the  Mormon  agent,  stated  that  tbrei'  men,  at  diti'erent  times,  and 
each  ignorant  of  the  other's  proceedings,  had  been  sent  by  Bi  igliam  Young  from  Salt  Lake, 
to  examine  the  river  and  adjacent  country  ;  and  that  each  had  separately  reported  that  Call- 
ville must  be  the  head  of  navigition. 

TllK  Cavk. — Two  or  three  miles  below  Roaring  rapids,  and  in  sight  of  t.liem,  the  river  at 
a  bend  strikes  the  face  of  a  steep  rocky  mountain.  'J'iie  action  of  the  water  has  here  scooped 
or  hollowed  out  a  very  remarkable  cave,  about  70  feet  in  \vidth  at  its  entrance,  extending 
directly  into  the  rock  for  about  2W  feet,  and  Laving  a  height  of  perhaps  50  or  GO  feet.  The 
current  setting  into  and  out  of  this  cave  carries  in  and  deposits  sufficient  drift-wood  to  keep 
it  full  to  extreme  high -water  mark.  When  the  Esmeralda  sto])ped  here  for  wood  it  was  found 
piled  in  to  the  height  of  :20  feet  above  the  then  stage  of  water,  lilling  the  cave  to  aljout  that 
hfight  for  nearly  the  whole  extent.  It  is  supposed  that  if  the  cave  were  cleared  out  every 
year,  it  would  be  tilled  afresh  by  the  season's  drift.  If  this  be  so,  it  will  be  readily  under- 
stood liow  valuable  the  cave  may  become  to  a  steamboat  line  to  Callville.  There  are  high 
grounds  near  by  uiion  which  the  wood,  when  taken  out,  could  be  safely  piled. 

Gexku.\l  OnsEUVATiox.s  UPON  THE  RiVKR,  &c.— The  average  Current  of  the  Colorado  at 
ordinary  low  stages,  where  no  contraction  or  special  obstruction  exists,  may  be  about  three 
and  a  half  miles  per  hour.  At  b'gh  water  it  is  of  course  more  rapid.  Against  such  a  current 
the  Esmeralda,  when  under  way,  towing  a  loaded  barge,  would  make  about  40  miles  per  day 
from  poiut  to  point,  running  only  during  daylight.  When  regular  navigation  is  established 
boats  will  undoubtedly  run  day  and  night,  except  that  when  reaching  any  difficult  place  at 
night  it  may  be  necessary  to  wait  for  daylight,  to  pass.  At  least  this  will  hv,  the  ease  for  the 
greater  part  of  the  passage  to  Callville,  say  trom  Port  Isabel  to  El  Dorado  canon,  distance 
about  i'.')0  miles.  Whenever  steamboats  get  to  running  irequently  and  regul.arly,  the  con- 
stant stiiTing  of  the  sand  upon  the  bars  will,  it  is  believed,  keep  them  washing  away,  so  that 
a  good  depth  of  water  may  always  be  found  upon  them.  A  steamboat  for  the  Callville  trade 
should  have  an  18-inch  cylinder,  draw  not  over  20  inches,  and  be  not  over  J40  feet  in  length, 
with  a  large  stern  wheel.  A  boat  like  this  would  go  from  Point  Isabel  to  Callville,  with  a 
barge  in  tow  carrying  200  tons  of  goods,  in  14  days,  running  only  by  daylight,  at  almost  any 
stage  of  the  river.  When  boats  of  this  description  are  placed  upon  the  river,  tlie  trips  will  be 
made  with  the  same  regularity  and  certainty  as  on  the  rivers  of  California.  Up  to  this  time 
there  has  never  been  a  suitable  boat  on  the  Colorado.  All  arc  deticient  in  power  and  size, 
and  some  draw  too  much  water.  The  Indians  living  along  the  whole  length  of  the  river  are 
friendly  and  peaceable. 

Hough  estimate  of  distances. 

Port  Isabel  to  Fort  Yuma 175  miles. 

Fort  Yuma  to  La  Paz,  175  miles o50      " 

La  Paz  to  Williams  Fork,  80  miles 4130       " 

Williams  Foik  to  Mohave  canon,  18  miles 450      " 

Mohave  canon  to  Hardyville,  (iO  miles 510      " 

liardyville  to  Cottonwooil  island.  :30  mile.s 540      " 

Cottonwood  island  to  Callville,  tiO  miles GOO      " 

Other  Statements. — At  the  same  public  meeting,  R.  G.  Sneath.esq.,  of  San  Francisco, 
said  he  believed  that  freight  could  be  put  down  at  Callville  for  four  cents  per  pound,  and 
that  a  chance  was  now  ofleied  to  supply  125,000  to  1:50,000  people  with  the  necessaries  of 
life,  and  they  ought  to  take  advantage  of  it.  In  answer  to  question  put  by  the  chairman,  he 
said  that  be  believed  that  it  would  lake  from  liO  to  60  days  to  run  a  cargo  through  to  Call- 
ville. It  would  have  to  be  transhipped  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  it  might  be  well  to 
transfer  it  again  to  a  powerful  boat  below  the  rapids. 

30 


466  RESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

• 
Captain  Rogers  said,  as  far  as  his  kno%A'le(lge  -went,  there  was  no  particular  trouble  in  nayi 
gating  the  river.  There  was  a  scarcity  of  wood  tor  50  miles  below  Callville,  but  the  Mor- 
mons told  him  that  there  was  a  mountain  at  the  back  of  that  place  where  there  was  plenty 
of  wood,  which  could  be  obtained  at  reasonable  rates,  say  about  §7  per  cord.  Wood  could  be 
procured  the  whole  length  of  the  river  for  from  $3  to  $4  per  cord,  and  by  cutting  it  them- 
selves, for  us.  He  thought  that  when  proper  arrangements  were  perfected  the  trip  could  be 
made  inside  of  15  Aays.  The  expense  of  running  a  steamer  was  less  there  than  here ;  it  did 
not  cost  nearly  so  much  on  the  Colorado  as  on  the  Sacramento  river.  Labor  and  wood  were 
cheaper  there.  They  pay  $50  per  month  to  men  on  the  Sacramento,  and  on  the  Colorado 
only  $25 ;  they  pay  $G  per  cord  for  wood  on  the  former  river,  and  only  .§3  on  the  latter. 

Captain  Rogers,  :n  answer  to  questions,  said  that  the  currents  were  stronger  and  not  so 
regular,  on  the  Colorado,  than  on  the  Sacramento,  but  there  was  deeper  water  on  the  former. 
There  were  no  sand-bars  to  speak  of  above  Fort  Mohave,  and  the  river  was  not  practically 
more  difficult  to  navigate  than  the  waters  of  the  upper  Missouri. .  He  had  no  doubt  in  the 
world  that  it  would  prove  the  best  paying  institution  on  the  coast;  it  would  certainly  pay 
better  than  the  Sacramento  river.* 


SECTIO\    IV. 

CENTRAL    ARIZONA. 

It  was  not  until  1862  and  1863  that  an  attempt  was  made  ttorouglily  to 
explore  Central  Aiizona.  Whipple  and  Beale  had  crossed  by  the  35th  parallel ; 
Aulny  and  Leronx  had  seen  something  of  the  Salt  and  Yerde  rivers,  the  chief 
northern  tribntaries  of  the  Gila ;  hut  no  one  had  attempted  more  than  a  humed 
passage  through  the  country,  although  all  believed  it  to  be  rich  in  the  precious 
ores.  Late  in  1862,  or  early  in  1863,  Powel  or  Pauline  Weaver,  a  noted  moun- 
tain man,  who  had  crossed  Arizona  by  the  Gila  as  early  as  1832,  was  attracted 
bjr  the  placers  at  La  Paz  to  look  for  others  in  the  interior  of  the  country,  and 
started  with  a  party  of  men  for  exploration.  He  found  what  have  since  been 
known  as  the  AVeaver  diggings,  near  Antelope  Hill  and  the  town  of  Weaver, 
some  sixty  miles  south  of  the  present  town  of  Prescott.  About  the  same  time 
Joseph  Walker,  another  well-known  and  veteran  pioneer,  arrived  at  Pima  Vil- 
lages with  a  party  of  gold  htmters,  and  determined  to  go  n^orth  to  see  what  the 
unexplored  country,  from  which  the  Indians  had  often  brought  fabulous  reports, 
really  ctmtained  in  the  way  of  precious  metals.  This  party  discovered  and 
ascended  the  Ilassyampa,  one  of  the  main  streams  of  Central  Arizona,  which 
has  its  rise  about  ten  miles  southeast  of  the  town  of  Prescott,  and  runs  nearly 
south  until  it  sinks  in  the  desert  some  twelve  miles  below  the  town  of  Wicken- 
burg.  l*art  of  the  V/alker  party  went  to  the  Weav<n-  diggings,  where  on  the 
top  of  Antelope  Hill,  in  a  most  remarkable  position,  Mr.  Snelling  discovered  a 

*  Although  the  dp>oription  given  of  the  Colorado  river  in  the  above  report  is  fubstantially  con-ect  so  far  as 
relates  to  its  peneral  features,  the  difficulties  of  its  navigation  are  considerably  underrated.  It  should  be 
borne  in  iiiiud  that  these  rupresentatious  are  made  by  parties  interested  in  getting  up  a.scheme  to  secure  the 
Utah  trade.  So  far  from  the  depth  of  water  being  greater  on  the  Colorado  than  on  the  Sacramento,  my  own 
experience  from  Fort  Mojave  to  Fort  Yuma,  and  all  the  testimony  I  have  been  enabUd  to  gather  on  the  sub- 
ject, furnish  ilircct  proof  to  the  contrary.  Tho  depth  at  the  ordinary  low  stage  on  the  Colorado  is  not  more 
than  two  and  a  halt  feet  on  tho  bars.  In  January.  180.'),  the  Cocojiah.  under  command  of  Captain  Robinson, 
one  of  the  most  experienced  pilots  on  the  river,  was  nearly  two  mouths  making  the  trip  from  Fort  Yuma  to 
Fort  Miijave,  and  the  draught  of  this  boat  was  not  over  24  inches.  .She  was  compelhd  to  transfer  all  her  freight 
to  barge  s  after  passing  La  Paz.  On  the  return  trip  from  Fort  Mojave  to  Fort  Yuma,  without  any  freight 
whatever,  she  took  nine  days  to  make  a  distance  of  less  than  3(l(t  miles  down  stream.  The  great  difficulty 
arises  from  the  constant  shifting  of  Ihi'  channels,  caused  by  the  caving  of  banks,  deposits  of  sand  in  new 
places,  and  consetitient  changes  in  the  direction  of  the  current.  It  is  a  peculiarity  of  the  river  that  any 
improvement  made  in  the  way  of  dams,  wings,  or  weirs  must,  from  its  very  nature,  be  of  temporary  benefit. 
Tlie  natural  laws  which  govern  this  stream  are  constantly  in  operation.  New  eaves  in  the  alluvial  banks 
throw  the  current  out  of  the  existing  channels;  and  even  where  this  cannot  occur,  there  are  always  new- 
deposits  of  sand  made  at  their  lower  extremity,  thus  creating  new  obstacles.  The  Roaring  Rapids  form  an 
almost  insuperable  barrier  to  navigation  beyond  that  point,  but  it  would  be  less  difficult  to  make  a  permanent 
improvemi  nt  there,  where  the  banks  are  rocky,  than  in  the  long  stretches  of  the  river  below,  where  the  banks 
are  composed  of  sand.  It  certainly  requires  something  more  than  the  unsupported  statement  of  an  interested 
party,  however  reliable,  to  justify  the  assertion  that  <he  Colorado  is  superior  to  the  Sacramento  as  a  navigable 
gtreani,  or  that  it  can  ever  compete  with  the  latter  river  in  the  extent  or  value  of  its  trade.  There  is  neither 
the  population  nor  the  natural  facilitie*  to  justify  such  a  conclusion.  Small  steamers  may  possibly  be  con- 
Binictrd  to  navigate  the  Colorado  to  greater  advantage  than  those  now  in  use,  but  I  am  clearlj' of  opinion  that 
no  extensive  trade  will  eucr  be  carried  on  with  Salt  Lake  City  by  the  way  of  Callville. — J.  K.  B. 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS."  467 

lavije  (|uaiiliiy  of  ii'oUl,  iiuK-li  of  it  in  ])i(>c('s  of  unusual  si/.c.  One  nugget  w(ngli- 
ing  a  half  pound  was  taken  out.  ]\Iuch  of  the  mineral  was  dug  out  with  com- 
luon  jaok-knives,  and  one  man  is  said  to  have  taken  out  $4,000  in  a  single  day. 
]t  is  the  I'ommon  impression  that  if  water  could  be  had  at  the  top  of  the  moun- 
tain nuich  of  the  soil  would  pay  very  richly.  A  large  amount  of  work  has  been 
done,  and  a  great  deal  of  money  taken  out  along  the  creek  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountain,  where  the  mining  town  of  Weaver  is  located. 

'J'he  Walker  party  gradually  ascended  to  llassyampa,  finding  gold  at  nearly 
every  point,  ami  in  the  winter  of  1863  and  ISiH  taking  possession  of  the  Lynx 
or  Walker  Creek  diggings,  (ten  miles  east  of  l*rescott,)  from  whicrli  it  is  esti- 
mated that  little,  if  any,  less  than  a  half  million  of  dolhirs  have  been  taken. 
Tliey  also  gathered  nmch  gold  on  Big  Bug  creek,  four  miles  cast  of  Lynx  crec'k. 
As  the  placers  were  pretty  well  worked  the  miners  began  to  look  for  quartz 
veins,  and  found  no  lack  of  them.  All  along  the  Hassj'ampa,  upon  the  Agua 
Frio,  a  paralh'l  stream  of  consideral)lo  size,  upon  Lynx  creek,  Big  Bug,  Turkey 
creek,  and  indeed  upon  nearly  all  the  streams  of  Central  Arizona  lodes  of  gold, 
silver,  and  copper  were  found.  In  the  excitement  a  great  many  were  named 
and  recorded  which  have  no  value. 

Gic.NEtiAL  VIEW  OF  THE  Prescott  REGION'  OF  COUNTRY.* — There  are  three 
elevated  ranges  of  mountains  preserving  an  approximate  parallelism  and  trend- 
ing in  general  north  and  south.  Between  them  are  wide  meridianal  depressions, 
occupied  by  grass  plains. 

The  eastern  range  is  called  the  I'outo  Plateau,  and  is  composed  of  horizontal 
etrata  of  lime  and  sandstone,  resting  upon  the  surface  of  a  broken  granite  sys- 
tem. The  surface  or  summit  of  the  chain  is  quite  evenly  level,  a  plateau  of  fif- 
teen miles  wide  and  over  a  hundred  long  covered  with  pines.  West  of  this  and 
separated  from  it  by  the  Tonto  or  l^rescott  plains,  lies  the  Sierra  Prieta;  a  con- 
tinuous elevated  ridge  of  about  60  miles  in  length. 

Westward  again  is  the  »Skull  mountain  chain,  a  less  important  formation. 

These  will  be  described  separately. 

The  broad  valleys  Ix'tween  the  two  first  ranges  open  northward  and  connect 
with  the  great  Yal  de  China,  which  lies  beyond,  bounded  on  the  northeast  l»y 
escarped  mural  edge  f)f  the  great  Plateau  or  Colorado  Mesa,  and  on  the  west  by 
the  mass  of  the  Aztec  mountains.  This  extended  valley  or  plain  system  is  all 
connected,  and  the  entire  drainage  empties  around  the  northern  end  of  the  Tonto 
moimtains  into  the  west  branch  of  the  Rio  Verde. 

The  valley  lying  west  of  the  Sierra  Prieta  drains  the  Williams  fork. 

Tjie  Tonto  Plateau. — This  singular  table  range  is  unlike  most  chains  in 
Arizona.  It  is,  in  fact,  a  part  of  the  grand  ]\[esa;  its  summit  being  on  the  exact 
level  of  the  plateau,  and  only  separated  from  it  on  the  east  by  the  deeply  crowded 
canon  of  the  Bio  Verde.  This  stream  has  cut  down  a  valley  of  abttut  3,000  feet 
deep,  and  thus  isolated  the  Tonto  range,  leaving  it  as  an  outlying  strij)  of 
plateau,  having  the  aspect  from  the  country  on  either  side  of  a  true  range.  The 
excavation  of  vast  valleys  on  its  \\-estern  side  have  left  a  high  escarpment  of  its 
strata  on  that  flank. 

Along  its  base,  where  the  erosiin  has  cut  deepest,  granite  cones  of  the  under- 
lying system  are  laid  bare,  curiously  varying  the  general  aspect. 

The  exact  limit  of  this  talile  in  its  soiuhern  extension  is  not  yet  known,  l)ut 
like  the  Sierra  Prieta  it  nnist  finally  sink  under  the  low  plains  of  the  Ilio  Salado 
and  Gila. 

Its  summit  is  about  8,000  feet  high,  rising  at  the  northern  end  to  nearly  9,000 
above  sea  level.  Forests  of  2^'fiiis  Frcmontiana  and  jiimts  ponderosa  grow  in 
considerable  extent  over  its  more  elevated  portions,  an<l  a  most  luxiniant  growth 

*  Keport  of  Clarence  Kiiigr.  esq.,  of  the  State  {reolojrical  survey  of  California,  to  Colonel 
R.  S.  Williamson  on  the  geological  features  of  Northern  Arizona. 


468  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AKD    TERRITORIES 

of  bunch  and  gi'amma  grasses  is  eveiywliere  found.  Water  is  rare  except  in  the 
two  rainy  seasons. 

The  Sieeea  Peieta. — By  refen-ing  to  the  map,  the  geographical  position 
and  extent  of  this  important  claim  will  be  easily  seen.  I  shall  confine  myself 
to  a  few  notes  on  its  stnicture,  and  the  distribution  of  waters  and  timber. 

From  our  elevated  position  upon  one  of  its  culminating  pealis,  we  could  look 
down  the  line  of  the  range  and  overlook  a  large  portion  of  the  wide-spread  foot- 
hill system.  In  this  description  I  shall  use  all  the  notes  afterwards  made  from 
other  points  of  view,  both  from  the  valley  of  Kirkland  creek  and  the  summits  of 
the  Aztec  chain. 

G-EAXITE  MouyTArX,  THE  XOETHEEI^  TEEMLNTS  OF  SlEEEA  PeIETA. An 

immense  pile  of  granite  rears  out  of  the  plains  and  low  foot-hills  which  stretch 
eastward  and  south  from  the  Aztec  mountains.  To  the  eastward  it  presents  a  very 
rugged  front,  deep  scored  by  ravines  and  ribbed  by  cragged,  precipitous  spm's.  It 
is  an  elongated  m.ass,  ending  northward  in  ))aiTen  rock  cones  of  700  or  800  feet  in 
height,  and  on  the  south  extending  into  the  summit  ridge  of  the  chain.  Within 
a  radius  of  four  or  five  miles  of  the  base  the  whole  distance  is  occupied  by  low 
ridge-like  masses  of  granite,  A\hich  are  covered  with  immense  detached  bouklers 
poised  one  upon  another  in  strange  positions.  Among  these  are  many  egg-shaped 
masses  weighing  SO  to  100  tons,  balanced  on  the  small  end. 

Gexeeal  Steuctuee  or  the  Raxge. — The  granitic  ridge  tenninating  in 
the  peak  just  mentioned  extends  southward  for  about  65  miles,  maintaining  an 
average  elevation  of  nearly  8,000  feet,  rising  in  three  conspicuous  places  to  about 
9,000  feet  each.  These  are  Granite  mountain,  the  northern  terminus,  Mount 
Union,  about  the  middle  of  the  range,  and  Bradshaw's  mountain,  its  southern  end. 
Its  average  extention  latterally  is  25  miles.  The  topography  is  comparatively 
simple,  consisting  of  the  central  ridge,  whicli  is  usually  straight,  and  from  wliich, 
at  right  angles  on  either  side,  project  long  rocky  spius  descending  at  easy  grades 
to  the  plains  on  both  sides. 

Tabular  masses  of  nearly  horizontal,  sedimentary  rocks  rest  unconformably  on 
the  spurs  in  the  Big  Bug  district,  south  of  Prescott,  varying  the  rolling  character 
of  the  surface.  These  isolated  fragments  of  mesas  are,  without  doubt,  relics  of 
the  same  beds  which  form  the  Tonto  and  Colorado  plateau, 'and  which  have  been 
accidentally  left  in  the  great  period  of  erosim,  when  the  main  mass  of  overlying 
rock  was  worn  away  and  carried  off"  from  the  granitic  flanks  of  the  Sien-a. 
Accompanying  the  granite  is  a  system  of  highly  inclined  (and  even  vertical) 
rocks,  which  strike  with  the  range,  skirting  its  eastern  base,  and  forming  the 
mateiial  of  the  lower  foot-hills.  Southward  of  Prescott  this  scries  of  rocks  widen, 
and  finally  occupy  more  than  half  of  the  eastern  slope. 

They  are  of  great  importance  geologically,  as  being  the  chief  auriferous  rock 
of  the  region,  and  enclosing,  parallel  with  their  stratification,  the  main  quartz 
lodes  of  the  Prescott  and  13ig  Bug  districts.  Metamorphic  slates,  mica  sheets 
and  (piartzites  are  the  principal  rocks,  but  there  is  interbedded  a  fine  seam  of 
micaceous  oxyd  of  iron,  a  hematite  of  apparently  great  purity.  This  zone  seems 
to  be  about  15  feet  thick,  and  I  have  traced  its  indications  for  about  17  miles. 
West  of  Mint  valley  it  is  conspicuous  in  a  sharp  purple  outcrop,  which  may  be 
followed  north  and  south  for  several  miles,  dijij)ing  about  85°  to  the  east. 

T'he  detrital  matter,  sand,  gravel  and  clay,  which  has  been  brought  down  from 
the  slopes  of  the  chain  and  deposited  by  former  torrents  in  valleys  among  the 
lowest  foot-hills,  and  even  out  upon  the  plains,  has,  in  crossing  the  auriferous 
zone,  become  mixed  with  its  peculiar  rocks,  and  contains  the  gold  resulting  from 
their  disintegration  and  decomjjosition.  These  gravel  deposits  and  stream  sands, 
although  never  (so  iar  as  known)  so  rich  as  the  placer  washings  of  Califcnfia, 
are  yet  sufficiently  charged  ^\-ith  the  precious  dust  to  pay  for  washing,  especially 
where  water  enough  for  extended  operations  is  present.     It  is  cmious  to  observe 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  469 

iiloiio-  the  i)lact'r  pTomuls  of  this  region  iininerous  olist-nre  traces  of  the  former 
inhabitants. 

Cireuhir  mouiuls  oi  stones  occupy  many  of  the  lilth'  knolls  and  heights  along 
the  streams,  and  everywhere  they  exist  mnnberless  fragments  of  eartheftware 
and  glazed  pottery  are  thickly  strewn  over  the  snrface.  That  these  ruins  arc  of 
considerable  ag(>  is  proved  by  large  cedar  trees  whose  roots  penetrate  and  embrace 
the  confused  roek  piles,  and  which,  by  examination  of  the  rings  of  growth,  are 
found  to  be,  in  some  cases,  not  less  tlian  200  years  old.  It  is  firmly  believed 
by  many  placer  miners  that  the  gold  ground  has  formerly  been  washed  over. 
This  idea  is  based  on  the  disturbed  position  of  the  boulders  and  gravel  in  the 
earth,  and  a  frequent  absence  of  that  regular  bedded  structure  \\hich  materials 
deposited  by  water  generally  have,  and  which  the  digging  over  and  washing  l)y 
miners  must  obliterate.  It  will  not  be  hmg  before  this  must  be  established  or 
disproven,  for  it  is  impossible  to  suppose  that  no  implements  would  be  lost  (and 
embedded  in  the  gravel)  ])y  these  ancient  miners.  It  will  be  an  interesting  piece 
of  history  if  the  proof  is  finally  found,  that  the  former  inhabitants,  whose  origin 
and  life  and  disappearance  is  so  wrapped  in  mystery,  were,  like  the  present  settlers, 
in  quest  of  gold.  Of  the  metalic  contents  of  the  Sierra  Prieta  little  is  yet  known. 
Gold  is  known  to  exist  in  considerable  amount,  how  richly  and  how  widely  dis- 
tributed time  only  can  tell;  rich  surface  specimens  and  the  exaggerated  ideas 
of  prospectors  are,  of  course,  no  more  than  an  indication,  not  even  amounting  to 
a  probability.  That  the  rocks  are  remarkably  rich  in  large  quartz  veins  is  true, 
but  their  characteristics  are  utterly  unknown,  and  the  rich  surface  distribution 
may  not  be  continuous  in  depth. 

Iron  I  have  before  mentioned  as  existing  in  a  bed  of  hematite,  but  inifortu- 
natcly  the  want  of  coal  forbids  the  extraction  of  this  most  precious  metal.  It  is 
quite  possible,  however,  that  the  plateau  strata  lying  east  of  the  Rio  Verde,  and 
which  are  yet  wholly  unexplored,  may  be  found  to  yield  coal.  Silver  is  present 
in  certain  galena  veins  in  workable  percentage.  I  examined,  chemically,  at  Gen- 
eral Mason's  laboratory,  one  specimen  which  contained  over  $400  to  the  ton.  The 
copper  indications  arc  frequent,  but  as  yet  no  deposit  has  been  sufficiently  })ros- 
pected  to  throw  light  on  its  occurrence.  The  soil  of  the  mountain  valleys  along 
the  chain  is  often  rich  in  elements  of  fertility,  but  from  the  great  elevation  and 
great  nocturnal  radiation  in  the  clear  summer  months,  it  is  Ibund  that  few  crops 
can  bear  tlie  rigorous  climate,  frosts  occurring  in  every  month  of  the  year. 

Timber  of  the  Sierra  Prieta. — Everywhere  above  5,000  feet  the  range  is 
heavily  wooded  with  coniferous  trees,  chiefly  i\iG  2)i>i'i(S  2>ondcrosa,  which  ranges 
fi'om  the  elevation  mentioned  quite  to  the  summit.  It  has  about  the  same  habit  of 
grov,-th  as  on  the  flanks  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  but  averages  considerably  less  in 
Leigh.t ;  its  average  is  hardly  over  150  feet.  The  timber  of  this  species  is  decidedly 
bett(!r  than  in  California,  wdiere,  from  the  long-continued  dry  season,  or  some 
other  powerfid  climatic  cause,  the  wood  is  so  brittle  that  a  tree  in  falling  will 
often  ])reak  in  five  or  six  sections. 

All  along  the  more  elevated  parts  of  the  range  are  scattered  groves  of  a  fir, 
(ahies  J)ouglassU,)  and  the  i)iuon,  (plnus  cduUs,J  also  a  slender  balsam  fir,  (pro- 
bably ^?/fca  grandis.)  The  timber  of  all  these  is  very  good  for  all  the  ordinary 
architect m-al  i)ui-]ioses. 

A  poplar,  fp.frcnmJoidcsJ  a  tree  having  a  very  white  l)ark  and  ragged,  wide 
branching  habit,  is  found  on  the  iqijjer  waters  of  all  the  streams,  even  about 
springs  at  the  summit.     Its  timber  is  too  soft  for  most  uses. 

Another  of  the  i)oi)lar  family  (a  Cottonwood)  skirts  the  stream  banks  and  beds 
in  their  levels,  and  continues  downward  into  the  extreme  foot-hills  to  the  sinking 
grounds. 

Near  the  lower  limits  of  the  yellow  pine  timber  are  live  oaks  of  two  species, 
generally  too  small  to  be  of  value,  and  a  large  wide-spreading  juniper,  fj.  padnjp- 
tilvea.J     These  last  are  dotted  over  the  foot-hills  in  open  groves,  and  together 


470  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

witli  a  walnut,  ^^•]licll  generally  keeps  tlie  immediate  vicinity  of  streams,  stray 
quite  out  into  the  plains.  For  50  miles  in  length,  l)y  from  16  to  20  broad,  the 
range  is  well  timbered  with  the  above  species,  and  is  decidedly  the  most  favored 
region  in  this  respect  witliin  a  great  distance.  Very  many  years  of  settlement 
and  enterprise  would  be  required  to  make  a  serious  inroad  on  this  valuable  wood- 
land, and  unless  the  mines  should  prove  extraordinarily  rich  it  will  always  supply 
a  large  demand. 

Water  System  of  Sierra  Prieta. — Climatic  causes,  w^hich  everywhere 
govern  the  distribution  of  waters,  are  somewhat  peculiar  in  their  action  in  this 
region.  We  have  not  yet  sufiicient  knowledge  of  the  atmospheric  changes  to 
thoroughly  understand  the  deportment  of  streams. 

In  general,  during  the  winter  months,  there  is  an  immense  precipitation  of 
vapor  over  the  whole  plateau,  which  is  deposited  in  the  form  of  snow  in  heavy 
banks  npon  all  the  mountain  chains  and  more  elevated  rolls  of  mesa.  This 
period  is  not  one  of  continuous  cold,  but  is  frequently  broken  by  a  few  'days,  or 
even  weeks,  of  mild  weather,  when  the  power  of  the  sun  rapidly  melts  great 
quantities  of  snow,  and  all  the  brooks  of  the  Sierra  Prieta  are  brimfull.  The 
clear  nights  during  winter  produce  an  intense  cold,  the  thermometer,  even  at  Pres- 
cott,  several  times  indicating  as  low  as  11°,  Fahrenheit;  the  melting  of  snow  is 
suspended  and  much  of  the  surface  water  frozen  up,  so  that  in  the  morning  the 
stream  is  very  low,  while  by  3  o'clock  p»  m.  of  the  same  day  it  is  a  torrent. 

The  period  of  winter  is  followed  by  a  warm  spring,  when  the  air,  instead  of 
showing  a  ditierence  of  only  3°  or  5°  between  wet  and  dry  bulbs,  indicates  28° 
and  30°  of  diHerence. 

The  mountain  snows  are  rapidly  melted,  and  by  May  are  nearly  disappeared ; 
then  the  streams  gradually  fall,  the  volume  of  water  becomes  less  and  less. 
Finally  they  shrink  back  into  the  mountains,  having  an  intermittent  flow,  chiefly 
hidden  underneath  the  rivers  of  sand-  which  fill  their  beds.  Constant  and  rapid 
evaporation,  caused  by  the  thirsty  condition  of  the  heated  air,  renders  the  remain- 
ing waters  alkaline.  This  season  of  droughts  and  shrunken  streams  gives  way  in 
July  and  August  to  a  second  wet  season,  one  of  copious  summer  showers.  The 
conditions  and  geographical  extent  of  this  rain-fall  are  not  known. 

Vast  masses  of  cloud  are  almost  daily  condensed  over  the  crest  line  of  the 
Sierra  Prieta,  and  toward  the  middle  of  the  afternoon  drift  eastward.  Similar 
storms  gather  along  the  Aztec  mountains  and  around  the  isolated  volcanic  cones 
of  the  upper  mesa.  This  discharge  of  rain  is  represented  to  be  very  rapid  and 
great,  and  as  accompanied  by  a  brilliant  display  of  lightning. 

The  course  of  these  storms  seems  to  be,  according  to  general  testimony,  from 
the  Sierra  I'rieta  eastward,  and  from  San  Francisco  mountains  southward  and 
eastwar<l,  over  the  Megollon  mesa.  This  phenomenon,  of  almost  daily  occurrence 
during  July,  August,  antl  early  Sei)tember,  at  the  very  season  when  over  the 
greater  part  of  Arizona  plants  are  dying  of  thirst,  has  a  powerful  influence  on 
vegetation,  redeeming  the  land  within  its  range  from  the  condition  of  a  desert. 
The  influence  of  this  season  on  the  streams  is  not  so  great  as  would  be  expected, 
fi'om  which  I  am  inclined  to  think  that  the  discharge  is  chiefly  over  plains,  where 
its  irrigating  '.'fleet  is  seen  in  a  flne  crop  of  grass. 

Water  for  steam  purposes  in  the  mining  region  is  plenty,  if  used  economically, 
throughout  the  whole  Sierra  1^-ieta,  but  all  placer  works,  except  single  rockers, 
must  be  suspended  during  about  half  the  year. 

Grass  1'lains  xeau  1'rescott. — The  streams  -nhich  rise  among  the  volcanic 
group  on  the  Colorado  mesa  join  those  from  the  Aztec  range,  and  have  excavated 
out  of  the  mesa  formations  broad  valleys,  whose  general  elevation  is  from  5,000 
feet  to  5,600  feet  above  the  sea.  Of  these  the  largest  is  known  as  the  Val  de 
China.  Williamson's  valley,  lying  north  of  the  Sierra  Prieta,  is  also  connected 
as  an  arm  to  the  Val  de  China,  and  in  the  same  drainage  system  are  the  con- 
nected plains  between  the  Tonto  and  Prieta  ranges.     Taken  together  they  form 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  471 

an  iv/cn  of  not  less  than  r)00,000  noirs;  aild  to  this  about  300,000  acres  of  thinly 
woodocl  foot-hills  sinToundin^'  the  jtlains,  and,  like  them,  well  supplied  with  grass, 
and  we  have  a  reijion  of  grass  land  of  nearly  a  million  acres. 

In  the  coldest  winters  snow,  although  on  rare  occasions  quite  covering  this 
area,  never  lies  more  than  a  few  days. 

At  present,  owing  to  the  Ajjaches,  stock-raising  is  not  possible,  but  if  the  mines 
should  half  come  up  to  the  wealthy  yield  which  is  confidently  ])redicted  by  the 
mine  speculators,  both  civil  and  military,  this  vast  stock  range  will  be  a  most 
valuable  accessory  to  the  mining  settlements. 

The  grasses  are  all  of  the  kinds  known  as  lumch  grasses,  never  forming  turf. 
How  these  would  last  if  eaten  down  yearly  and  cropped  closely,  it  is  imi)0SMible 
to  say. 

Water  is  not  abundant  over  these  plains,  but  the  immense  amount  of  drainage 
which  Hows  beneath  their  surface  and  unite  to  form  the  west  fork  of  the  Verde, 
could  doubtless  be  reached  by  wells  not  far  below  the  surface. 

We  remained  aloft  on  the  Granite  mountain  two  days,  February  21  and  22, 
studying  carefully  all  the  topographical  features  within  the  range  of  view.  The 
night  was  comfortless,  with  a  wind  that  cut  through  our  limited  supply  of 
blankets,  but  the  mild  temperature  we  found  on  regaining  our  camp  in  the 
valley  soon  thawed  us  out.  On  the  morning  of  the  24th  we  started  for  Skull 
valley.  Our  road  cuiwed  around  the  northern  base  of  Granite  mountain,  through 
a  succession  of  low  sjiurs  and  intermediate  valleys,  the  former  covered  with  scrub 
oaks  and  chapparal  plants,  and  the  latter  with  a  scattered  carpeting  of  dry  grass 
and  the  dead  stems  of  herbaceous  plants.  Continuing  on  the  cun^o  till  our 
direction  was  southward,  we  entered  the  upper  end  of  a  long  belt  of  level  grass 
land  lying  under  the  western  flank  of  the  Sierra  Prieta,  and  called  Skull  valley 
from  the  number  of  crania  the  Apaches  have  thrown  there. 

The  following  day  (the  25th)  was  devoted  to  a  fi'uitless  search  after  a  lost 
mem])er  of  our  party.  The  26th  (Sunda3')  Avas  likewise  spent  in  trailing  the 
missing  man,  and  by  nightfall  we  determined  that  he  must  have  gone  to  Skull 
Valley  settlement.  Four  of  us  rode  down  there  at  midnight  and  fomd  that 
Brinley  was  safe  and  had  started  back  to  look  for  our  camp. 

A  little  after  sunrise  next  morning  we  met  the  wanderer  and  took  him  back 
to  camp.  Monday  Mr.  Gardner  and  I,  with  one  soldier,  climbed  a  bold  granite 
cone  nortli  of  our  camp,  from  the  summit  of  which  we  had  a  line  topographical 
%aew. 

Near  us,  and  bordering  the  Skull  mountains,  lay  a  rolling  belt  of  foot-hills, 
chapparal-covered  and  roughened  by  outcrops  of  granite. 

Skull  Valley. — This  level  valley  is  ai)proximately  20  miles  long,  with 
bottom  land  of  varying  width,  from  one-fourth  to  a  mile,  and  winds  between  the 
foot-hills  of  the  SieiTa  Prieta  on  the  one  side  and  a  range  of  granite  and  sedi- 
mentary rocks  on  tho  other.  It  is  intersected  about  mi<lway  by  a  cross  ridge  of 
granite,  which  has  acted  as  a  retaining  wall  to  the  accumulating  detritus  washing 
down  iVoin  the  inountain  sides  al)ove  it,  damrniug  it  back  and  elevating  the 
northern  portion  of  the  valley  about  l.^O  feet  higher  than  the  other.  The  mate- 
rial of  the  northern  section  is  mostly  of  disintegrated  granit(!,  and  the  vegetation 
of  a  poor  character,  except  two  s])ecies  of  live  oak,  which  flourish  finely  and 
seem  always  to  like  a  granitic  soil.  South  of  the  granite  ridge  there  is  a  decided 
improvement  in  the  soil,  owing  to  the  presence  of  metamorphic  {mal  pais)  rocks 
lying  west  of  the  V>ottom. 

Plere  are  the  farming  settlements,  founded  on  a  deep  black  mould  of  great  fer- 
tility ;  with  a  climate  never  very  cold  nor  ever  intensely  hot,  they  .nay  hope  to 
accomplish  considerable  agiicultural  development.  The  waters  of  this  valley 
flow  southward  through  a  gap  in  the  metamorphic  hills,  and  empty  into  Ku'k- 
land  creek,  a  tributary  of  the  Santa  ilaria. 

In  the  granite  hills  wliich  project  from  the  western  range  into  the  head  of 


472  EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

Skull  valley,  is  a  li^^ng■  spring  that  contains  sufficient  water  for  a  large  camp, 
even  in  dry  seasons ;  good  buncli  grass  mider  the  live  oaks  and  scattered  among 
the  chapparal  on  all  the  hills,  and  a  plenty  of  fire-wood,  make  this  an  attractive 
camp. 

The  chain  of  granitic  hills  lying  west  of  Skull  valley  are  at  their  southem  end 
depressed,  and  finally  buried  beneath  sedimentary  beds.  These  are  physically 
of  little  importance,  except  as  being  the  divide  or  water  shed  between  Kirkland 
creek  and  the  Santa  Maria.  From  the  granite  cone  spoken  of  above  we  obtained 
our  first  near  view  of  the  great  and  interesting  basin  of  the  Santa  Maria. 

It  seemed  to  us  at  first  like  a  confused  labyrinth  of  rock  ridges  piled  up  one 
above  the  other  without  system  or  order,  but  a  further  study  from  several  other 
points,  overlooking  it  more  completely,  and  several  tramps  into  its  depths,  gave 
us  a  good  knowledge  of  its  structure.  Before  describing  this  singular  place,  I 
will  anticipate  our  work  a  little,  and  give  the  results  we  arrived  at  in  the  road 
reconnoissance  up  to  the  Skull  vallej'  settlements. 

A  road  from  Prescott,  either  to  the  settlement  at  Wickenburg,  to  La  Paz,  or 
to  the  mouth  of  Bill  Williams  Fork,  must  either  follow  the  present  road  to  Mint 
valley  and  around  the  northern  base  of  Granite  mountain,  and  down  to  Skull 
valley,  making  a  long  horseshoe  curve,  and  returning  in  a  distance  of  38  miles 
to  within  ]  6  of  the  starting  point,  or  cross  the  high  range  du'ectly.  We  explored 
two  passes  over  the  mountains,  one  directly  west  of  Prescott,  which,  from  the 
great  accumulation  of  winter  snoAV,  would  be  quite  impassable  during  five  months, 
and  another  called  the  Indian  pass,  which  ofi'ers  great  facility  for  the  construc- 
tion of  a  road.  The  Apaches  rarely  fail  to  decide  wisely  on  all  matters  of  trail  ; 
a  well-l)eaten  path  through  the  pass  attests  their  sagacity.  This  depression 
can  hardly  be  over  1,000  feet  above  Prescott,  and  from  its  open,  exposed  nature 
it  can  hardly  have  more  snow  than  the  valley  at  Fort  Whipple.  Approached 
from  the  Prescott  side,  the  pass  is  reached  by  a  gentle  ascent  through  rolling 
Avooded  country,  and  without  any  of  the  difficulties  of  ordinary  mountain  roads. 
A  good  covering  of  soil  and  generally  even  surface  leaves  little  to  be  done  beside 
occasionally  digging  out  stumps  or  picking  away  a  few  stones.  The  descent 
into  Skull  valley,  although  not  so  gentle  as  on  the  eastern  slope,  still  presents 
no  o])Stacles,  either  of  grade  or  rocky  surface,  which  cannot  be  overcome  by  a 
small  expendiure.  A  road  through  here  would  be  always  passable,  and  would 
reach  tlie  Skull  valley  settlements  in  about  1"  miles,  saving  18  or  19  miles,  and 
reaching  the  valley  in  one  day  less  than  by  the  present  road. 

Having  reached  Skull  valle}'',  a  road  from  Prescott  to  Bill  Williams  Fork  must 
either  follow  the  present  line  to  Date  creek,  or  else  cross  the  Skull  mountains 
below  Tonto  spring  and  keep  the  high  mesas  of  the  Santa  Marui.  This  latter 
is  the  shortest  way,  and  we  explored  it  to  determine  its  practicability. 

February  28  we  crossed  the  divide  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  camp  Xo. 
4,  and  descended  gradually  among  rolling  chapi)aral-covered  hills,  following  the 
dry  tributary  of  the  Santa  Maria.  After  marching  about  four  miles  we  found 
ourselves  (jn  the  brink  of  a  deep  impassable  canon,  with  ragged  vertical  walls  of 
black  cellular  rocks.  In  the  bottom  were  chaotic  piles  of  angular  debris,  for- 
bidding a  i)assage  down  the  calion,  even  had  we  found  a  place  to  descend.  To 
go  around  the  head  of  the  caiion  wouUl  (,)nly  lead  into  a  maze  of  deeper  ones. 
Our  only  way  was  to  keep  the  high  mesa  and  work  westward  parallel  to  the 
cafion,  crossing  the  lateral  gorges  which  were  made  by  its  tributary  streams. 
Into  one  of  these  we  were  forced  to  descend  to  a  depth  of  fully  1,000  feet,  and 
at  an  angle  so  great  as  to  forbid  the  aiipruach  ol'  a  wagon  road,  except  by  zigzag 
to  and  fro  at  great  exi)ense.  Having  regained  the  o})posite  summit  of  the  mesa, 
we  continued  southwest,  following  an  old  Indian  trail  skirting  the  borders  of 
the  canon.  The  surface  of  this  phiteau  is  thickl}-  strewn  with  blocks  and  frag- 
ments of  all  sizes  of  a  dark  brown  cellular  rock,  half  buried  in  the  earth ;  their 
sharp  edges  cut  our  mules'  hoofs,  and  rendered  footing  exceedingly  insecm'e 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  473 

The  soil  fornu'tl  by  the  deconipusitioii  of  this  mal  i^ais  rock  forms,  when 
thoroncrhly  soaked  in  the  wet  season,  a  reinarkaldy  tenacious  mny  clay,  which 
a)»»no,  even  if  there  were  no  ditlicult  canons,  would  at  times  make  a  road  quite 
impassable. 

The  nudes  struggled  on  over  this  rough  table-land,  and  about  the  middle  of 
the  afternoon  brought  us  to  a  singular  depression,  where  we  found  water  and 
camped. 

A  granite  cone  rose  out  of  the  mal  pais,  and  all  around  its  base  the  strata  have 
been  worn  away,  leaving  a  round  l)asin,  in  the  mitldle  of  which  is  the  cone  of 
l,-300  or  1,S00  feet  height.  Here  is  permanent  water  in  tanks,  and  a  good  camp 
ground  ;  grass,  in  great  quantities  and  of  excellent  kinds,  abounds  all  over  the 
neighboring  hills  and  mesas,  and  wood  enough  for  all  camp  purposes  may  be 
collected  from  the  shrubby  cedars.  Mr.  Gardner  climbed  the  cone  on  the  following 
day,  while  I  explored  the  canons  and  tal)les  for  a  road  line. 

From  thiscanq:)  we  made  a  nmnber  of  pedestrian  excursions,  getting  at  last  a 
complete  knowledge  of  the  smrounding  topographs'.  The  difficulties  which  lie 
in  the  way  of  a  road  are  all  of  them  of  a  nature  that  can  be  overcome,  but  only 
with  a  very  great  expenditure.  Compared  with  the  very  small  gain  in  distance 
over  the  Date  Creek  road,  it  is  muck  more  than  compensated  by  the  accidental 
character  of  the  ground. 

In  moving  t>ur  camp  we  descended  into  a  canon  wliicli  winds  through  a  laby- 
rinth of  confused  piles  of  granite,  the  trail  doubling  and  twining  to  avoid  impass- 
able crags,  and  iinally  emerging  on  the  edge  of  a  mesa,  from  which  a  steep 
declivity  of  about  a  thousand  feet  leads  to  the  rolling  country  bordering  the 
valley  of  Kirkland  creek. 

Thompson's  valley  is  a  circular  expansion  of  the  main  Kirkland  valley,  and 
is  of  topographical  interest,  as  its  present  water  system  is  divided  by  a  low,  flat 
spm-,  a  half  draining  down  one  side  of  a  high  granitic  ridge  and  half  down  the 
other,  uniting  about  four  miles  below,  and  flowing  as  one  stream  into  the  Santa 
Maiia. 

AVe  followed  the  dry  cai'ion  of  the  northern  branch,  keeping  the  narrow,  sandy 
bed  as  it  wound  l^ack  and  forth  between  the  interlocking  spurs  which  jutted  from 
high  granitic  ridges  on  either  side.  Tall,  monumental  plants  of  the  Ccriiis 
GiganticHS  stood  erect  among  the  debris  and  rock  ruins ;  their  shafts  of  fluted 
gi-eeu,  leafless,  and  trimmed  with  thorns,  heighten  the  savage  aspect  of  the  defile. 

The  pass  opens,  after  four  miles  of  winding,  into  an  open  valley  lying  along 
the  Santa  Maria.  This  level  area  of  about  2,000  acres  of  sandy  soil  is  bordered 
on  the  west  by  granitic  mountains,  through  which  the  river  in  its  westward 
course  has  cut  a  deep  gateway.  Upon  the  east  is  a  high  boundary  wall,  formed 
of  the  escarped  edge  of  the  mesa.     Here  we  camped  for  about  10  days. 

After  exjjloring  in  all  directions  as  iar  as  we  could  on  foot,  Mr.  Gardner,  Mr. 
Brinley,  and  myself,  with  three  soldiers,  made  a  little  tri])  northwestward,  climbing 
two  high  ste{)s  of  the  mesa  system,  and  reaching,  after  two  hard  days'  tramp,  a 
culminating  i)oint  of  the  Aztec  range.  This  we  climbed  and  spent  two  days  on 
its  summit. 

Our  lirst  day  was  half  in  clouds,  half  in  sunshine.  Bitter  snow-stonns,  which 
almost  hom-ly  swept  over,  accompanied  by  thunder,  completely  shut  out  all  viev/. 
These  alternate  periods  of  cloud  sha«lows  and  sudden  bursts  of  dazzling  sun- 
light were  of  wonderful  jMcturesqueness,  but  they  rendered  our  work  very  unsat- 
isfactory. The  second  day,  however,  was  of  that  peculiar  clearness  which  so 
often  succeeds  a  storm  in  mountain  countries.  The  immediately  surrounding 
region,  from  the  ]Mojavc  road,  at  Fort  Rock  springs,  down  to  Date  creek, 
excluding  the  remarkable  basin  of  the  Santa  Maria,  was  in  jjlain  sight  and  in 
position  to  be  easily  studied  out.  The  great  plateau  is  not  lu'oken  ofl"  here  in 
one  high  blulf,  as  in  the  Val  de  China  and  Yampai  valle}',  but  descends  in  long 
slopes  and  broken  steps,  which  are  everywhere  cut  by  remarkably  broken,  abrupt 


474  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

canons.  TLe  Santa  Maria  basin  was  itself  excavated  by  aquaceous  action  from 
one  of  tlicse  steps,  a«d  tlien  in  a  subsequent  period  of  mucli  greater  erosive 
action  was  deeply  gashed  down  by  narrow,  converging  canon'-',  with  tabijar 
lidges,  mere  tongues  of  land,  left  between  them,  so  that  the  former  sinface  of  the 
basin  is  now  2,000  and  3,000  feet  above  the  present  stream  beds,  and  only 
remains  in  the  fonn  of  mesa  peninsulas.  Among  these,  here  and  there  lise  bold 
granite  peaks,  of  generally  angular  outline  and  rugged  surface,  suggesting  the 
architecture  of  mighty  pyramids  from  the  solid  strata  which  have  long  over- 
whelmed and  hidden  them.  A  more  difficult  region  to  travel  over  cannot  be 
imagined,  nor  one  which  presents  less  inducement  for  settlements. 

The  mesa  plains  are  indeed  well  clothed  with  grass,  but  they  are  hard  to 
reach  and  far  from  any  tillable  land  ;  besides,  the  dry  climate  and  scarcity  of 
Avater  must  always  keep  them  in  their  present  desolate  condition. 

The  great  streams  have  long  ago  shrunken  away.  The  torrents  which  excavated 
these  remarkable  caiions  are  generally  now  a  mere  river  of  sand,  only  flowing 
during  the  rapid  melting  of  snows  on  the  neighboring  hills,  or  rarely  in  summer, 
when  a  dense  storm-cloud  bursts  over  the  gulf  walls  and  pours  down  its  deluge. 

There  is  evidence  that  even  now  these  occasional  floods  sometimes  occur. 
With  their  exception  the  streams  are  mere  brooklets,  saturated  with  bitter  alka- 
line salts,  and  for  the  greater  part  of  their  cotu'se  trickling  and  filtering  along 
the  bed  rock  under  a  covering  of  hot  sand. 

The  water-loving  cottonwoods,  by  deeply  rooting  themselves  on  the  margin 
of  these  river  beds,  where  they  can  drink  up  the  subterranean  moisture,  manage 
to  live,  their  fresh,  vivid  green  contrasting  strongly  with  the  red-brown  rocks 
and  dusky  olive  vegetation  of  artemesia  and  larrea. 

From  our  station  we  could  trace  each  caiion,  and  here  and  there  a  widening 
of  the  walls  would  open  to  view  the  lower  depths,  where  a  line  of  rich  green 
willow.s  and  cottonwoods  fringed  the  sandy  stream  bed. 

Northward  and  northwest  the  long  level  table  lines  are  broken  by  Cygnus 
and  Gemini,  two  lofty  snow-clad  mountains,  the  fonner  an  irregular  pile,  capped 
b}"  a  rough-hewn  dome,  the  latter  a  symmetrical  cone  of  bLack  volcanic  material. 
Between  them  and  encircling  their  bases  is  a  slope  of  mesa,  furrowed  by  canons, 
which  deepen  as  they  continue  westward  till  they  break  through  among  the 
mesa  steps  and  granitic  hills  of  the  aquareous  range,  uniting  under  its  western 
base  to  fonn  the  main  canon  of  Bill  Wilhams  Fork. 

This  canon  drains  the  whole  of  a  long  meridianal  valley,  excavated  out  of  hori- 
zontal strata  of  rock  between  the  two  parallel  ranges,  the  Hualajiais  and  Aquarius. 

The  whole  view  is  one  of  desolation,  relieved,  it  is  true,  here  and  there  by 
vegetation — cedars  on  the  higher  mesas,  grasses  and  chapparal  plants  dotted 
over  the  rough  hill  slopes — yet  the  solid  rock  foundation  constantly  otitcrops  in 
sombre  red  and  black  masses,  shattered  into  collosal  fragments  and  cut  down 
by  a  labyrinth  of  canons.  It  produces  a  picture  of  savage  nature,  quite  in 
keeping  with  the  fiendlike  Apaches  who  make  their  dens  in  its  fastnesses. 

Beyond,  to  the  southwest,  lies  stretched  a  low  desert  plain,  sloping  in  almost 
imperceptible  graduation  toward  the  two  rivers  Colorado  and  Gila.  Detached 
mountain  groups  rise  here  and  there,  scored  down  by  deep  dry  gorges.  Every- 
where a  great  volume  of  sand  and  gravel  descends  from  their  mouths,  giving 
evidence  of  a  former  torrent. 

The  vegetation  is  sparse,  and  only  of  desert-loving  shri;bs,  whose  ill-favored 
leaves,  together  with  the  cactus  thorns,  seem  typical  of  the  whole  region. 


Lynx  Ckeek. — Writing  from  Prescott  in  1866,  Mr.  Ehrenberg  used  the  fol- 
lowing language : 

Wo  may  safely  say  there  is  a  coutinuous  range  of  gold-bearing  rock  from  near  Wicken- 
berg  to  10  miles  north  of  Prescott,  and  from  the  Lower  Hassjampa  to  the  Agua  Frio,  which 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  475 

would  onihmco  nil  avoa  (J'  iit  least  1,000  square  miles.  Tho  coiitaininp:  rock  in  uoi.rly  the 
same  iu  this  entire  section.  It  does  not  follow  tluit  other  sections  eiist  iiud  southeast  are  not 
metalliterous,  nor  does  it  iiugur  for  tiie  non-existence  of  other  metuls  here ;  on  the  contrary, 
lead  and  copper  ores  abound,  and  silver  has  been  found  to  some  extent ;  but  gold  predomi- 
nates, at  least  a3  far  as  known  at  present. 

The  tirst  loilo  upon  wliicli  niacliiuoiy  was  crocted  way  tlio  Accick'iital,  upon 
Lynx  cret'k,  a  gold  voin  yioldiui;-  some  showy  and  beautiful  speeimens  of  frco 
o-()ld — speeinuMis  wliieli  attractctl  great  attention  in  San  Francisco.  The  ore 
ernshed  l»y  the  small  mill  and  jirior  tiiid  sul)se(piently  by  arrastras  averaged  about 
SlOO  per  ton.     The  vein  is  small,  varying  from  12  to  20  inches  in  width. 

Near  the  head  of  Lynx  creek,  which  has  been  worked  for  placers  throughout 
its  length,  say  12  miles,  is  a  hill  crowded  with  quartz  lodes.  This  is  known  as 
Eiu'eka  Hill,  and  Mr.  Ehrenberg,  writing  (in  1S6G)  of  the  lodes  in  it  says: 

I  find  them  to  be  of  the  same  decomposed  character  as  those  on  the  bill  below  the  Big  Bug 
mine,  only  showing  sulphurets  iu  abuudance,  which  those  in  Big  Bug  do  not  as  yet.  1  can- 
not come  to  any  conclusion  as  to  their  real  character.  More  and  judicious  work  is  required 
to  do  this.  There  are  a  great  many  veins  here  of  this  character — more,  indeed,  than  I  like 
to  see ;  still,  if  this  class  oi'  veins  and  ores  will  pay,  by  all  I  can  see  and  what  I  cau  hear  I 
can  only  come  to  the  coucl,usiuu  that  these  uiountaius  contain  an  extent  of  productive  quartz 
not  equalled  iu  any  part  of  the  United  States. 

The  Eur.EKA  Lode  is  the  most  prominent  iu  the  hill.  It  is  a  largo  vein,  and 
near  the  surface  showed  free  gold,  which,  worked  in  arrastras,  yielded  $00  per 
ton,  but  at  the  bottom  of  a  shaft  of  SO  feet  in  depth  sul})hiu-ets  predominate,  and 
it  is  the  belief  that  the  same  will  be  found  in  most  if  not  all  of  the  Lynx  creek 
lodes. 

The  Dead  ArooD,  the  Title,  the  Mouxt  Veexon,  the  Poixtee,  the 
Boston",  the  Pixe  Mountain,  and  other  lodes,  the  ore  from  which  has  been 
worked  in  an'astras,  has  returned  from  $20  to  $80  per  ton.  Sixty  tons  of  the 
Dead  AVood  ore,  worked  by  arrastras,  yielded  $27  50  per  ton  in  g-old. 

At  the  head  of  Lynx  creek  the  Senator  lode  is  a  large  silver  vein,  which  has 
woiked  S60  to  the  ton  in  that  metal. 

The  Mountaineer,  Brandon,  Lyon,  Box  Elder,  Monitor,  and  other 
veins  show  gold,  and  have  been  developed  to  a  sufficient  extent  to  indicate  value. 
The  quartz  on  the  surface  is  decomposed,  and  the  gold  often  visible.  At  a  depth, 
as  a  rule,  the  ore  abounds  in  sulphurets.  AiTastras  have  been  erected,  and  are  now 
testing  the  ore  from  some  of  these  veins.  The  headwaters  of  the  Hassyampa 
are  near  those  of  Lynx  creek,  and  the  quartz  lode  upon  the  Hassyampa  are  gene- 
rally held  in  good  esteem. 

The  Chase  Lode  is  a  gold  vein  prospecting  well,  and  believed  to  be  valuable. 

The  Benedict  Silver  Lode  has  a  shaft  upon  it  nearly  a  hundred  feet  deep. 

Good  silver  has  been  taken  from  the  McDougal. 

Sterling  Mine. — This  mine,  live  miles  nearly  south  from  Prescott,  and  near 
to  the  Hassyampa,  is  somewhat  noted.  Two  live-stamp  mills  have  been  erected 
upon  it.  The  ore  is  of  gold  sulphurets,  and  presents  the  appearance  of  bronze. 
It  was  found  impossible  to  work  it  profitably  by  any  ordinary  process,  and  the 
mills  have  been  idle  much  of  the  time.  Lately  a  San  Francisco  gentleman  tried 
a  process  upon  the  ore  which  promises  to  be  a  success,  and  it  is  believed  the  mine 
will  j)rove  valuable.  The  vein  is  as  yet  irregular  and  uncertain ;  but  C(jm2)ara- 
tively  little  shafting  or  tuimelling  has  been  done. 

The  Montgomery,  Often,  and  Gdadaloupe  Mines,  further  down  theHas- 
syamjia,  have  been  worked  to  scjme  extent,  and  yielded  some  free  gold.  They  are 
difficult  of  access  at  present,  but  roads  might  lie  made  to  them  without  gretit  expense. 

The  Leihy  Copper  Veins,  between  Prescott  and  Sktill  valley,  show  that 
Central  Arizona,  no  less  than  Southern  Arizona  and  the  Colorado  river  country, 
is  rich  in  copper,  but  it  is  not  likely  that  attention  will  be  given  to  working  this 
ore  at  present.     There  ai'C  some  lil'ty  veins  in  close  proximity  in  the  property 


476  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

named,  and  in  other  parts  of  Central  Arizona  numerous  copper  lodes  have  heen 
located.     The  ores  are  oxides  and  sulphurets. 

Big  Bug. — East  from  Lynx  creek  some  four  miles,  and  from  Prescott  some  15 
miles,  is  the  Big  Bug  creek,  and  a  well-known  mining  district  bearing  that  name. 
Every  hill  in  this  rough  region  is  mineral  bearing.  The  placers  worked  upon 
the  creek  for  many  miles  paid  well,  and  continue  to  pay  good  wages. 

Mr.  Ehrenberg  spent  some  days,  in  the  spring  and  summer  of  1866,  in  an 
examination  of  this  district,  and  thus  described  it  in  a  letter  written  in  May  to  the 
Alta  Califoniian,  of  San  Francisco : 

The  veins,  in  part  of  the  district  at  least,  are  large,  distinct,  and  well  defined  ;  in  the  other 
parts  this  is  not  the  case,  and  I  have  not  yet  come  to  any  conclusion  as  to  what  they  are,  as 
no  work  whatever  has  been  done  on  them,  and  the  containing  rock  is  so  decomposed  and 
stained  with  oxide  of  iron  in  certain  parallel  zones  and  masses  that  it  is  even  doubtful' whether 
they  are  veins  at  all ;  they  have  some  regularity,  nevertheless  ;  and,  should  this  iron  stain 
be  caused  by  the  decomposition  of  pyrites  (or  sulphates)  of  iron,  then  there  is  hope  of  numer- 
ous extensive  and  lasting  veins,  as  most  all  the  croppings  show  gold.  It  is,  however,  possi- 
ble that  this  rusty  stain  is  caused  by  the  decomposition  of  the  hornblende  in  the  sicnite,  (or 
diorite, )  which  is  the  rock  in  which  all  these  veins  occur.  In  this  case,  not  much  is  to  be 
hoped  from  this  second  series  of  veins.  I  expect,  however,  that  a  few  of  these  also  will  prove 
good  and  permanent. 

First,  the  Galena  lode,  belonging  to  the  first  series.  It  is  a  fissure,  and  fine-looking,  large 
vein,  prospecting  and  opening  well.  Eight  men  are  at  work  here  in  two  shafts,  from  whx-h 
about  70  tons  of  ore  have  been  taken  up  to  date,  (shafts  about  15  feet  deep  only.)  The 
Galena  is  situated  on  the  mountains  about  two  miles  north  of  the  mill. 

Second,  the  Big  Bug,  situated  about  one-half  a  mile  from  the  mill,  also  on  the  mountains, 
and  on  the  boundary  separating  the  two  classes  of  veins.  Some  beautiful  ores  of  a  singular 
character  are  taken  from  this"  mine,  which  make  me  almost  believe  that  much  of  this  irou 
stain  is  occasioned  by  the  decomposition  of  the  hornblende  rock,  and  not  by  iron  pj'rites — 
at  least  not  always.  The  shaft  is  some  fifty  feet  deep,  but  has  considerable  water  in  it,  which 
prevented  my  examining  it  below  at  present.  They  are  extracting  ore  from  two  small  levels 
some  three  feet  down.  The  lower  wall  is  very  firm,  but  the  upper  consists  of  a  crumbling, 
heterogenous  mass  of  the  same  material  and  segregated  masses  of  crystallized  hornblende. 
The  fissure  in  which  the  ore  occurs  varies  in  width  from  two  to  four  feet,  and  the  ores  lie  in 
the  same  iu  nests  of  various  sizes,  showing  by  their  relative  position,  however,  the  probability 
that  at  one  time  they  have  formed  a  continuous  sheet. 

The  condition  of  the  hanging  wall,  and  the  whole  combination  or  character  of  the  ganguo 
or  vein  mass  make  me  think  very  favorably  of  this  vein.  The  vein  mass  consists,  first,  of 
the  ores  referred  to,  segregated  masses  of  recrystallized  hornblende,  decomposed  country  rock, 
with  large  and  small  fragments,  at  times,  of  the  latter,  and  quartz  enveloped  and  blended  with 
the  former  in  a  very  peculiar  mixture.  It  is  my  opinion  that  considerable  friction  has  been 
excited  at  some  time  on  the  walls,  by  which  the  upper  has  been  shattered  and  broken,  and 
that  in  course  of  time  the  whole  mass  has  been  reconsolidated,  and  the  intervals  refilled  by 
recrystallization  of  hornblende,  iron  pyrites.  Arc.  Even  the  ore  is  of  this  character,  gold 
generally  occurring  iu  the  vicinity  of  brown  crystals  of  iron  iu  the  admixture  of  hornblende 
and  felspar,  and  in  a  deposit  of  carbonate  and  even  sulphate  of  copper  in  small  quantities. 
The  vein  can  be  traced  for  a  mile  in  a  straight  line,  showing  principally  those  flush  walls  of 
hornblende,  with  ore  iu  some  places.  As  the  shaft  was  sunk  in  a  ravine  it  is  questionable 
whether  the  whole  vein  has  been  so  much  shattered,  or  whether  this  was  confined  to  the  ravines 
solely. 

Third,  the  Eugenia,  not  worked  noAv,  and  water  in  the  drift,  which  was  commenced  toe 
low  or  too  near  the  creek.  This  is  a  vein,  consisting  of  iron  pyrites,  occurring  in  a  gangue 
ot  calcareous  spar,  (or  talc,)  with  some  quartz.  Near  the  surface  the  iron  is  oxydized,  and 
the  gold  cau  be  extracted  in  the  common  way.  The  iron  jiyrites  will  require  concentration 
and  roasting.  I  can  say  nothing  of  this  vein  now,  further  than  that  it  seemed  to  be  of  enor- 
mous size,  and  tlitit  it  is,  or  can  be,  worked  with  gieut  facility,  being  only  one-half  mile  from 
the  mill,  and  on  nearly  the  same  level.  Onlj'  the  siirtace  ores  will  be  available  now,  of  which 
there  are  a  great  abundance.     If  these  will  pay  but  ijlo  per  tou  the  mill  cau  be  kept  running. 

At  this  writing  about  1,000  tons  of  tlie  Galena  ore  are  in  sight.  Five  hundred 
tons  have  been  worked  by  the  quartz  mill  erected  for  the  purpose,  and  although 
the  machinery  is  incomplete  the  yield  lias  averaged  $25  to  the  ton  in  free  gold. 
There  are  several  shafts  and  tunnels  on  the  lode.  The  cost  of  shafting  has  been 
from  $8  to  $40  per  foot.  Ordinary  wages  875  per  month  and  board.  Wood 
costs  delivered  $5  per  ton.  The  Big  ling  mine  is  of  a  similar  character;  60 
tons  averaged  $30  per  ton.  The  ore  from  both  these  mines  contains  from  10 
to  20  per  cent,  of  sulphm'ets.     The  Eugenia  is  at  places  10  feet  in  width. 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  477 

Several  tons  worked  in  arrastras  gave  $25  per  ton  ;  some  as  liiyli  as  S40.  At 
such  a  return  as  this  the  Eugenia,  from  its  location  near  the  mine  and  its  size, 
must,  if  continuously  rich,  i)ay  well. 

The  TrcoNDEROGA,  the  CuArrAKEL.  and  the  Dividend  Mines,  in  the  Big 
line;  (Hstrict,  have  a  fair  reputation.  Thirty  tons  of  the  Chapi)arel  ore  worked 
at  tile  Big  Bug  mill  gave  S22  per  ton  in  free  gold.  Sixty  tons  from  the  Divi- 
dend <i"ave  S20  per  ton.  A  mill  has  been  erected  upon  the  Ticonderoga,  a  lode 
reputed  to  be  vahiable,  but  little  work  has  yet  been  done. 

'I'l'iiKKV  CuKEK,  30  miles  soutlieast  from  Prescott,  is  more  noted  for  itssilvei 
than  for  its  gold  mines.  A  mill  has  been  erected  to  work  the  ore  of  tlie  Bully 
Bueno  lode,  but  owing  to  iinancial  embaiTassment  it  has  not  yet  been  put  in 
operation.  Shafts  and  tunnels  show  the  lode  to  good  advantage.  Tlie  ore  is 
of  a  cm'ious  character,  that  upon  the  surface  being  gold  in  hornblende.  The 
Yahoo  mine  in  this  vicinity  promises  well.  The  Goodwin  is  a  silver  lode,  show- 
ing some  ch<;ice  ore.  Specimens  taken  to  California  in  iSG5  were  highly  praised. 
A  ton  or  two  worked  yielded  $300.  The  Gross  gold  lode  in  this  district  has 
yielded  some  specimens  of  free  gold  of  rare  beauty.  The  Capital  silver  lode 
resembles  the  Goodwin,  and  the  llichmond  is  of  the  same  class. 

The  Bkadsiiaw  District  is  upon  the  upper  Aqua  Frio,  at  what  is  known 
as  Black  Caiion,  a  distance  of  from  50  to  GO  miles  southeast  from  Prescott. 
Here  the  3Iexicans  for  several  seasons  worked  the  placers  with  considerable  suc- 
cess, and  in  18G4  numerous  quartz  claims  were'  taken  up.  Some  of  the  oi'o 
reduced  in  aiTastras  gave  a  return  of  $100  to  the  ton.  The  Great  Eastern,  the 
"White  Swan,  the  Uno,  Forks,  and  other  lodes  present  good  surface  indications. 
A  company  has  been  formed  in  I'hiladelphia  for  working  them.  The  Nopal  and 
Balieufiana  lodes  have  been  worked  by  arrastras,  and  some  showy  specimens 
ha>ve  been  extracted. 

JS'ear  Given  mountain,  at  the  south  side  of  the  Bradshaw  mountain,  (from 
wliich  the  foregoing  district  is  named,)  some  silver  lodes  have  been  located,  but 
noi  yet  worked.  The  ^lammoth  has  an  average  width  of  15  feet,  and  has  been 
traced  for  two  and  one- half  miles. 

PiXE  Flat,  at  the  west  end  of  the  Bradshaw  mountain,  has  several  gold 
lodes.  The  Clinton  and  Minnehaha  have  been  opened  to  the  depth  of  perhaps 
30  feet,  and  the  district  is  accounted  promising. 

"NValxut  Grove,  one  of  the  best  farming  districts  in  central  Arizona,  is  upon 
tlie  liass^-ampa,  30  miles  south  of  I'rescott,  and  15  miles  west  of  the  mining 
districts  just  referred  to.  In  its  vicinity  are  some  good  lodes.  The  most  noted 
are  the  Big  Rebel,  a  lode  of  considerable  size,  and  the  Josephine,  ore  from 
A\hich,  worked  by  arrastras,  has  paid  $200  to  the  ton. 

At  the  Placeritas,  between  "Walnut  grove  and  People's  ranch,  about  the  time 
of  the  Weaver  gold  excitement,  some  gold  was  extracted,  and  the  diggings  are 
still  worked  ])y  ^lexicans. 

Vulture  Mine. — A  German,  named  Henry  Wickenburg,  with  several  coi;p- 
panions,  while  piospecting  upon  the  Ilassyampa  late  in  1SG3,  discovered  a 
butte  or  small  isoluted  mountain  of  (puirtz,  at  a  point  some  GO  miles  north  of  the 
Gila,  and  near  the  Ilassyampa.  After  examining  it  closely  they  found  traces 
of  gold  but  attached  no  great  value  to  the  ore,  and  all  but  Mr.  Wickenberg  were 
reluctant  to  go  to  even  the  slight  trouble  of  posting  notices  claiming  the  lode, 
if  such  it  could  be  called.  It  was,  however,  taken  up,  and  is  now  the  best 
known  and  most  profitable  mining  property  in  central  Arizona,  if  not  in  the  entire 
Territory.  Upon  the  discovery  claim  is  a  chinmey  500  feet  long  and  400  feet 
wide,  which  rises  100  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  surrounding  country.  So  far 
as  tested  nearly  all  the  rock  of  this  chimney  contains  gold.  I'he  vein  proper 
is  39  feet  wide,  and  continues  the  same  at  the  depth  of  100  feet  from  the  surface, 
or  say  200  feet  from  the  top  of  the  chimney,  the  depth  to  which  shafts  have  been 
sunk.     The  vein  runs  n(jrtliwest  and  southeast.     The  hanging  \vall  is  of  por- 


478  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

pliyiy  rock  ;  the  foot  wall  of  talcose  slate.  The  vein  has  a  pitch  of  45°  to  the 
northwest.  The  main  lode  is  all  of  quartz,  and  there  are  various  strata  on  each 
side,  varying"  from  one  to  six  feet  in  width. 

A  20-stamp  mill  has-been  erected  upon  the  Hassyarapa,  within  a  mile  of  the 
town  of  Wickenburg,  where  the  ore  was  first  worked  in  arrastras  by  ]\[r.  Wick- 
enburg  and  others.  This  is  for  working  the  ore  from  the  discovery  claim  of  the 
Vulture,  which  is  now  the  property  of  a  New  York  company.  Mr.  Cusenbary, 
the  superintendent,  has  Icindly  furnished  the  following  report  of  the  amount  of 
ore  worked  by  this  mill  to  September  1,  1867  : 

From  November  1,  1866,  to  September  1,  1867,  the  mill  crushed  4,834  tons, 
which  produced  $145,633,  an  average  of  about  830  per  ton. 

The  gold  has  thus  far  been  found  free,  and  occasionally  some  showy  specimens 
are  obtained.  The  absence  of  water  near  the  lode  now  renders  it  necessary  to 
work  the  ore  at  Wickenburg,  a  distance  of  14  miles.  Thus  the  cost  of  trans- 
portation alone  is  $10  per  ton.  Wood  is  not  abundant  in  any  part  of  central 
Arizona  south  of  Prcscott.  At  Wickenburg  it  costs  delivered  about  $8  per 
cord. 

The  Vulture  is,  however,  considered  rich  enough  to  pay  with  these  draw- 
backs, and  aiTangements  are  now  making  for  the  working  of  other  claims,  and 
it  is  tliought  that  all  will  pay,  although  some  have  heretofore  considei'ed  the 
chimney  or  discovery  claim  the  only  desirable  part  of  the  lode.  Two  thousand 
feet  are  claimed  upon  the  Vulture  vein,  and  several  other  lodes  of  a  similar 
character",  although  much  smaller  in  size,  have  been  taken  up  in  the  vicinity. 


General  Remakes  on  Central  Arizona. — Central  Arizona  is  an  elevated 
country.  The  town  of  Prcscott,  the  present  capital  of  the  Territory,  is  at  an 
altitude  of  some  6,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  At  this  height  the  win- 
ter temperature  is  of  course  severe,  but  at  other  seasons  the  climate  is  perhaps 
the  most  agreeable  in  Arizona.  Above  Weaver  the  country  is  well  wooded  and 
watered.  The  valleys  are  for  the  most  part  small  and  disct)nnected,  but  the  soil 
is  rich,  and  at  most  points,  altliough  there  are  early  frosts,  fine  crops  are  produced. 
It  is  estimated  that  2,000  tons  of  C(^.rn  will  be  produced  this  season  within  a 
circle  of  50  miles  of  Prcscott.  Vegetables  of  nearly  every  kind  grow  luxu- 
riantly. At  a  reasonable  outlay  good  roads  may  be  made  through  the  most  for- 
midable mi.*antain  ranges,  and  the  country'  offers  many  facilities  for  mining.  The 
want  of  success  to  this  time  is  not  to  be  attributed  to  any  deficiency  in  the  mines, 
bat  to  the  Indian  troubles  and  the  refractory  character  of  the  ores  of  most  of 
the  lodes  thus  far  opened.  The  mills  erected  having  been  intended  onh^  for  the 
working  of  free  gohl  have  not  been  suited  to  sulphurets  and  rebellious  ores. 
When  proper  machiiu'ry  is  provided  the  lodes  of  central  Arizona,  or  a  ninnber 
of  them,  will  probably  repay  development.  It  is  estimated  that  ordinary  ores 
may  now  be  worked  at  a  cost  not  exceeding  $7  per  ton.  Only  American  labor 
is  to  be  had,  wliich  is  more  costly  than  most  of  that  employed  in  southern  Arizona 
and  upon  the  Colorado,  but  at  the  same  time  more  efiective. 

Remarks  on  the  'i'l-jRRuroRY. — In  soutliem  Arizona  and  upon  the  Colorado, 
excepting  at  tlie  highest  points,  work  is  usually  suspended  in  the  summc"  months. 
In  central  Arizona  this  is  not  necessary,  as  the  sun  is  seldom  oj)pressi\e.  The 
thermometer  has  been  Ivuown  to  stand  at  110°  on  the  Colorado,  when  it  rose 
to  but  65°  in  and  about  Prcscott.  The  nights  in  the  mountains  throughout  the 
Territory  are  cool  at  all  seasons.  Snow  falls  in  central  Arizona,  but  excepting 
in  the  liighcr  mountains  it  usually  remains  but  a  few  hours.  Of  the  four  winters 
since  the  whites  occupied  the  country,  l)ut  one  has  been  severe. 

Arizona  is  far  richer  in  agricultural  lands  than  is  generally  supposed.  To 
those  who  have  traversed  the  desert  regions  only,  it  would  he  an  absurdity 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  479 

to  talk  of  fine  fanus  and  gardens,  but  with  tliose  who  have  seen  the  products  of 
the  fertile  valleys,  no  argument  is  necessary  to  prove  their  value.  Indeed,  it 
may  be  boldly  asseVted  that  no  one  of  the  mineral-bearing  'IVnitories  of  the 
Vacilio  is  richer  in  mineral  lands  than  Arizona,  while  its  climate  is  acknowledired 
by  all  who  have  tested  it  to  be  unsurpassed  ujion  the  western  continent.  The 
]iastoral  resources  of  the  Territory  deserve  mention.  Grasses  of  every  nutritious 
variety  abound,  and  cattle  anil  sheep  may,  whenever  the  hostile  Indians  are  over- 
come, be  raised  with  comparatively  no  outlay.  Southern  Arizona  is  especially 
rich  in  grazing  lands,  and  were  its  mines  to  prove  worthless,  which  is  hardly 
possible,  it  must  eventually  liecome  important  as  a  pastoral  country,  and  support 
a  large  pojiulation,  furnishing  cattle  not  for  the  Territory,  but  for  California  and 
Xew  ^lexico. 

15elo\v  Prescott  and  upon  the  Colorado  adobe  is  used  for  buihling,  and  is  per- 
haps better  suited  to  the  climate  than  any  other  material.  At  Prescott  and  in 
the  siuTounding  mining  districts  timber  is  used,  and  lately  brick  of  an  excellent 
character  have  been  made  in  Prescott. 

The  pine  of  central  Arizona  grows  to  a  medium  size,  and  much  of  it  is  resinous. 
The  oak  and  Idack  walnut  do  not  obtain  a  great  size.  Pine  lumber  cut  by  a 
steam  mill  in  Prescott  is  furnished  at  $30,  860,  and  §100  per  1,000,  according 
to  the  quality.  The  mesquite  and  cottonwood  of  southern  Arizona  and  the  Colorado 
furnish  good  rafters  for  the  adobe  structures,  and  the  mesiiuite  is  famed  as  a 
snperl>  firewood.  About  Tucson  and  Tubac,  and  many  of  the  mining  districts, 
it  is  abundant. 

The  Territory  offers  two  natural  and  inviting  routes  for  continental  railroads. 
That  ]iy  the  32d  jiarallel,  over  which  the  Butterfield  or  southern  overland  stage 
seiwice  was  so  satisfactorily  perfonncd  prior  to  the  rebellion,  is  too  well  known 
to  require  comment.  That  by  the  35th  jiarallel,  explored  by  Beal  and  Whipple, 
is  scarcely  less  practicaide,  and  is  for  much  of  the  distance  well  supplied  with 
timber  and  coal,  and  through  a  promising  agricultural  and  mining  region.  Both 
these  routes  possess  advantages  over  those  farther  north,  and  it  is  the  judgment 
of  those  who  have  passed  over  them  with  care  and  observation  that  they  must 
both  soon  be  traversed  by  the  iron  horse. 

Upon  the  adoption  of  the  code  of  the  Tenitoiy,  (1864.)  a  chapter  was  incorpo- 
rated providing  for  ''the  registry  and  government  of  mines  and  mineral  deposits," 
and  it  at  first  met  general  favor,  both  in  and  out  of  the  I'erritory,  but  practice 
proved  it  to  be  cumbersome  and  annoying,  and  in  18G6  it  was  repealed,  and  a 
siuq^le  act  passed,  leaving  the  regulation  of  the  size  of  the  claims,  the  amount 
of  work  to  be  performed,  and  all  details  connected  with  the  taking  up  and  hold- 
ing of  claims,  to  the  district  organizations.  But  few,  however,  of  the  districts 
enforce  rules,  and  it  is  not  likely  that  much  attention  will  be  given  the  matter 
until  the  congressional  mining  law  is  enforced  here.  The  land  oflicers  who  are 
to  see  to  its  execution  have,  it  is  reported,  been  ajipointed,  and  will  soon  open 
their  offices.  The  congressional  act,  so  far  as  nnilcrstood,  is  much  liked,  and 
considered  liberal  even  by  the  large  class  who  have  always  opposed  any  legis-' 
lation  by  Congress  regarding  the  mineral  lands. 

A  simple  segregation  act,  of  whioh  the  following  is  a  copy,  was  adopted  by  the 
last  legislattu'e : 

AN  ACT  to  provide  for  the  segregation  of  miniug  claims. 

Be  it  enacted  by  the  legislntire  assf-mlily  of  the  Territory  of  Arizona,  Tliat  whenever  any  ono 
or  more  joint  owners  or  tenants  in  common  of  gold,  silver,  copper,  or  mineral-bcariug  ledges 
or  claims  may  desire  to  work  or  develop  such  ledgo  or  claim,  and  any  other  owner  or  owners 
thereof  shall  fail  or  refuse  to  join  in  said  work,  after  due  notice  of  at' least  oO  days,  given  by 
publication  in  one  newspai)er,  printed  in  the  county  in  which  said  ledges  or  claims  are 
located,  and  if  none  be  printed  in  said  county',  then  in  any  newspaper  printed  in  the  Territory, 
said  notice  to  have  publication  in  four  successive  weeks  of  said  paper,  said  other  owner  or 
owners  may,  upon  application  to  the  district  court  of  the  district  wherein  the  ledge  or  claim 


480  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

is  situated,  cause  the  interests  cf  said  parties  so  refusing  to  be  set  off  or  segregated  as  here- 
inafter set  forth. 

Sec.  2.  The  owner  or  owners  of  any  mineral-bearing  ledge  or  claim,  after  the  expiration 
of  said  30  days'  notice  having  been  given,  may,  if  the  party  or  parties  notified  fail  or  refuse 
to  join  in  the  working  or  developing  said  ledge  or  claim,  apply  to  the  district  court  of  the 
district  wherein  the  ledge  or  claim  may  be  situated,  for  a  partition  or  segregation  of  the  iute 
rest  or  interests  of  the  party  or  parties  so  failing  or  refusing  to  join. 

Sec.  3.  The  party  or  parties  so  applying  shall  set  forth  the  fact  that  the  said  parties  have 
been  duly  notified  in  accordance  with  section  one  of  this  act,  and  that  said  party  or  parties  have 
failed  or  refused  to  join  in  said  work,  all  of  which  shall  be  sustained  by  the  oath  or  afiirmation 
of  one  or  more  of  the  parties  applying ;  and  upon  such  application  being  made  the  clerk  of 
said  court  shall  post  a  notice  at  the  office  of  the  county  recorder,  and  in  two  other  conspicuous 
places  within  the  district,  stating  the  application,  and  notifying  the  parties  interested,  that 
unless  they  appear  within  GO  days,  and  show  good  cause  why  the  prayer  of  the  petitioner 
should  not  be  granted,  that  the  same  will  be  granted  if  good  cause  can  be  shown. 

Sec.  4.  At  the  expiration  of  said  60  days,  if  the  party  or  parties  notified  do  not  appear  and 
show  good  cause  why  the  prayer  of  the  petitioner  should  not  be  granted,  the  court  shall 
appomt  two  commissioners  to  go  upon  the  ground  and  segregate  tbe  claims  of  the  parties  so 
refusing  to  join ;  and  in  case  they  do  not  agree,  they  to  choose  a  third  party ;  and  said  com- 
missioners shall  make  a  report  in  writing  to  said  court,  who  shall  issue  a  decree  in  con- 
formity with  said  report,  which  shall  be  final,  except  appeal  be  taken  to  the  Supreme  Court 
within  30  days  after  issuance  thereof. 

Sec.  5.  The  provisions  of  this  act  shall  not  apply  to  the  county  of  Yavapai. 

Sec.  6.  All  acts  and  parts  of  acts  in  conflict  with  the  provisions  of  this  act  are  hereby 
repealed. 

Sec.  7.  This  act  to  take  effect  and  be  in  force  from  and  after  its  passage. 

The  present  report  indicates  the  discovery  and  location  of  lodes  in  all  parts 
of  the  Territory  rather  than  their  development.  The  reader  may  wonder  why 
lodes  ofi'ering  snch  rich  surface  indications,  and  so  generally  promising,  have  not 
been  extensiveh-  worked.  In  explanation,  the  comparative  inaccessibility  of  the 
Territory,  being  oft"  the  grand  overland  lines  of  travel,  and  without  seaports, 
must  be  first  offered.  Next  the  fiendish  Apache,  the  most  difiicult  Indian  upon 
the  continent  to  overcome,  and  next  the  limited  extent  of  the  placer  diggings, 
or  the  lack  of  water  for  their  working.  It  will  be  remembered  that  it  was  the 
placers  that  brought  the  large  population  to  California,  Idaho,  and  Montana. 
Irlad  those  countries  been  without  such  inducements,  their  growth  would  probably 
have  been  as  slow  as  that  of  Arizona. 

After  some  years  residence  here  the  writer  is  more  than  ever  confirmed  in 
the  belief  that  while  there  is  much  to  contend  with  in  Arizona,  there  is  much  to 
contend  for,  and  that  despite  all  the  drawbacks  and  discouragements  the  Terri- 
tory will  yet  command  a  large  and  prosperous  population,  and  abundantly  rci^ay 
the  government  for  the  onthxy  re(]uired  to  reserve  it  from  the  savage. 

Besides  the  minerals  already  referred  to,  there  are  indications  of  the  existence 
of  many  others  in  dift'ercnt  parts  of  the  Temtory.  Iron  in  carbonates  and  oxides 
is  abundant.  Traces  of  nickel  have  been  found  near  the  Big  Bug  creek.  Plati- 
num (metallic)  is  sliown  in  the  ])laccrs  of  the  Black  canon  or  Bradshaw  district, 
on  the  Agiia  Frio.  Traces  of  tin  exist  at  several  points.  The  geologist  of  Lieu- 
tenant I'arks's  United  States  exj)loring  expedition  reports  the  discovery  of  large 
beds  ol"  gypsum  u])on  the  Han  I'edro.  A  lode  of  cinnabar  was  located  several 
years  since  10  miles  southeast  of  La  Paz,  and  named  the  Eugenia;  copper,  silver, 
and  quicksilver  are  found  together  in^  a  rare  combination,  but  the  lode  is  not  large. 
Rich  cinnabar  float  has  been  found  upon  the  Mohave  and  Prescott  road,  about  50 
miles  from  the  Colorado.  Lime  of  a  superior  quality  exists  in  large  quantities 
near  Prescott  and  Tucson,  and  is  found  at  other  points.  It  is  now  extensively 
used  in  building.  Lime  coral  exists  in  the  Adelphi  mine.  Mineral  hill,  Williams 
Fork.  It  is  found  in  immediate  connection  with  the  richest  carbonates  and  oxides 
of  copper.  The  Salt  mountains  near  Callvillc,  and  a  few  miles  east  of  the  Col- 
orado, are  among  the  most  remarkable  Ibrmations  in  Aiizona.  The  deposits  of 
pure,  transparent,  and  beautifully  crystallized  salt  are  very  extensive,  and  no  salt 
is  superior  for  table  or  general  use.     In  the  vicinity  traces  of  coal  have  been  dis- 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  481 

covorod,  and  ])nrtios  eiifrac^ed  in  oxploratiun  arc  (]uito  confident  that  largo  quan- 
tities will  1)0  round.  There  is  a  report  of  the  discovery  of  coal  upon  the  San 
Vvdvo. 

The  folly  of  intrustino-  niinine;'  operations  to  inexperienced  and  impru- 
dent men  has  been  well  illustrated  in  Arizona.  In  the  southern  country  and 
upon  the  Cohn'ailo  hundreds  of  thousands  of  dollars  have  been  thrown  away  in 
foolish  an<l  extravagant  expenditures.  In  one  instance,  after  the  outlay  of 
S1,000,0U0,  th(>  company  abandoned  work  without  enough  having  been  done  to 
ascertain  whether  there  W'as  or  was  not  a  true  vein.  In  many  cases  the  whole 
capital  of  the  owners  has  been  frittered  away  in  unnecessar}'^  buildings,  improper 
machinery,  and  large  remuneration  to  unworthy  agents,  men  who,  next  to  the 
Apache,  have  by  their  recklessness  obstructed  the  progress  of  the  country,  and 
prejudiced  capitalists  against  fiu'ther  investment  in  it. 

Thus  far  it  may  be  truthfully  asserted  that  there  have  been  more  failures  in 
superintendents  than  in  mines  in  Arizona;  indeed  it  is  a  common  remark  that 
no  lode  properly  opened  and  economically  and  systematically  worked  has  failed 
to  pay.     Tliis  is  true  in  the  main. 

In  southern  Arizona,  and  upon  the  Colorado  river  bottoms,  irrigation  is  neces- 
sary. In  central  Arizona  the  seasons  are  defined,  and  at  many  points  good  crops 
have  l)een  raised  without  irrigation,  the  rains  furnishing  sufiicient  moisture.  These 
occur  mainly  in  the  months  of  July  and  August,  but  there  are  frequent  showers 
in  April  and  May,  as  well  as  in  the  winter  months. 

The  friendly  Indians,  Pimas,  Maricopas,  and  Papagoes,  below  the  Gila,  raise 
large  quantities  of  excellent  wheat,  and  the  whites  engaged  in  farming  tipon  the 
Gila,  the  Santa  Cruz,  the  San  Pedro,  and  the  Sonoita,  raise  corn,  barley,  and 
wheat.     Some  sis  flouring  mills  are  now  in  operation  in  the  Tenitory. 
31 


482  EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

UTAH    TERRITORY. 

SECTION    I. 

GENERAL  FEATURES. 

The  boundaries  of  tliis  Territoiy  have  been  changed  a  number  of  times  until 
its  form  approaches  a  rectangle.  Its  length  from  north  to  south  is  about  345 
miles,  and  its  breadth  about  320  miles,  with  an  area  of  about  110,000  square  miles. 
Its  population  is  variously  estimated  at  from  80,000  to  100,000,  and  is  rapidly 
increasing. 

The  Wasatch  range  of  moimtains  divides  the  Territory  diagonally  northeast 
and  southwest  into  tAvo  parts,  the  northwestern  being  much  larger  than  that  lying 
to  the  southward.  The  Wasatch  range  is  high  and  rugged.  Its  lofty  summits, 
covered  with  perpetual  snow,  probably  have  an  altitude  of  11,000  or  12,000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  In  a  broad  and  elevated  range  surrounded  by 
countries  rich  in  gold  and  silver  we  should  expect  to  find  those  metals.  But  so 
far  as  is  known  no  range  of  mountains  on  the  western  coast  has  been  found  rich 
in  precious  metals  that  has  a  trend  to  the  northeast  and  southwest,  and  it  may 
be  considered  problematical  whether  any  mines  of  those  metals  will  be  found  of 
great  richness  in  the  Wasatch  mountains.  On  the  western  side  of  the  Temtory 
are  a  number  of  small  ranges,  on  the  Goshoat  and  a  number  of  others,  that  con- 
tain mines  of  gold  and  silver. 

The  largest  river  is  the  Cok)rado,  one  of  the  longest  in  the  United  States. 
Of  its  capabilities  for  navigation  comparatively  little  is  known,  though  so  far  as 
explored  the  reports  are  unfavorable.  Its  principal  branches  are  the  Green, 
Grand,  San  Juan,  and  Virgin  rivers.  These  drain  the  southeastern  portion  of 
the  Territory.  On  the  north.  Goose  and  Holmes's  creeks  nm  into  Snake  river, 
but  all  the  interior  streams  empty  into  lakes  that  have  no  outlet  to  the  sea. 
Bear  river  and  the  Jordan  empty  into  Salt  lake,  besides  many  large  creeks  and 
numerous  smaller  oiies. 

Salt  lake  is  about  120  miles  long,  north  and  south,  and  40  miles  wide,  and 
contains  several  islands  of  considerable  size,  some  of  which  are  partially  covered 
with  timber.  A  steamer  is  no\v  being  built  for  the  purpose  of  shipping  the  tim- 
ber from  these  islands,  for  the  use  of  Salt  Lake  City. 

The  lake  is  subject  to  sudden  stonns,  and  boat  navigation  is  sometimes  danger- 
ous. Until  the  present  time,  no  serious  effort  has  l^cen  made  to  test  its  capabili- 
ties for  navigation,  but  there  is  no  doubt  that  the  trade  on  this  lake  will,  at  some 
future  period,  be  of  considerable  magnitude.  The  water  is  extremely  salt.  An 
analysis  shows  that  it  contains  over  22  per  cent,  of  solid  matter,  an  indication 
that  it  has  had  no  outlet  to  the  sea  for  a  great  length  of  time,  and  that  compared 
w'ith  other  regions  the  fall  of  rain  in  this  part  of  the  country  is  loss,  and  the 
evaporation  greater,  than  elsewhere.  The  ocean  represents  the  average  saline 
impregnation  of  the  world  produced  b}-  raini'all  and  evaporation.  B}'  comparison 
with  tliis  standard  solution  we  can  judge  which  is  in  greatest  excess,  raini'all  or 
evaporation.  On  the  hills  which  siftnound  Salt  lake  are  mai'ks  of  an  ancient 
beach  about  300  feet  above  its  present  level.  From  the  depth  to  which  these 
shore-marks  have  worn  into  the  rocky  sides  of  the  hills,  and  the  large  amounts 
of  del>ris  brought  down  by  streams  and  deposited  at  that  elevation,  it  is  evident  that 
this  level  of  the  lake  must  have  remained  for  a  long  period.  It  is  probable 
the  lake  once  had  an  outlet  to  the  ocean ;  and  from  the  fresh-water  tertiary  fos- 
sils found  at  Bear  river,  and  at  other  points,  it  is  almost  certain  that  it  then  con- 
tained fresh  water.  Then,  also,  it  doubtless  contained  many  varieties  of  fish,  but 
as  the  water  grew  salt,  they  gradually  perished ;  and,  so  far  as  has  been  observed, 
it  has  no  animal  life  in  it  at  present. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  483 

The  cause  of  the  extreme  aridity  of  this  country  lies  in  the  fact  that  it  is  sar- 
vounded  by  higli  niouutains.  The  Sierra  Nevada  on  the  west,  the  Wasatch  range 
on  the  south  and  east,  and  the  Rocky  mountains  on  the  north,  completely  encircle 
it.  The  wind  c(»niing  from  any  quarter  has  its  moistvn'e  ahsorhed  in  passingover 
the  mountains.*  The  absence  of  vegetation,  the  etfect  of  this  extreme  aridity, 
also  aggravates  the  droughts.  The  cultivation  of  these?  valleys  hy  covering 
them  with  crops  aiul  trees,  may  cause  some  change  in  the  amount  of  rain-fall,  and 
it  is  not  unlikely  that  in  the  course  of  years  the  water  in  Salt  lake  will  l>e  per- 
manently higher  than  it  is  now.  As  the  small  rain-fall  at  present  is  due  to  the 
environment  of  mountains,  the  inference  is  that  in  former  times  they  did  not  exist, 
and  that  this  lake  is  older  than  the  mountains;  this  conclusion  appears  to  he  war- 
ran  t(>d  by  our  })resent  knowledge  of  the  facts. 

'Jlie  course  of  the  wind  in  past  ages  was  mainly  from  the  west,  as  it  is  now. 
This  is  shown  by  the  deeper  shore-marks  found  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  lake — 
a  fact  general  in  Utah  and  Nevada  and  the  southeastern  portion  of  California. 

Utah  lake,  the  source  of  the  Jordan,  is  almost  the  shape  of  a  right-angled 
triangle,  about  30  miles  long  and  20  wide.     The  water  is  fresh. 

There  are  several  other  lakes,  as  Little  Salt  lake,  Sevier  lake,  and  Goshoat. 

The  first  settlement  in  tliis  Territory  was  in  1846,  at  Salt  Lake  City,  by  a  band 
of  Mormons.  Owing  to  the  fertility  of  the  soil  and  other  natural  advantages, 
the  growth  of  this  counnunity  has  been  very  rapid  for  a  population  devoted  to 
agriculture.  The  discovery  of  gold  in  California  and  the  large  emigration  which 
it  induced,  passing  through  this  })lace,  greatly  stimulated  trade  and  made  a  mar- 
ket for  the  surplus  produce  of  the  inhabitants.  The  advent  of  the  United  States 
tioops  under  Ct)lonel  Johnson,  and  the  discovery  of  silver  in  Nevada,  and  of  gold 
in  Idaho  and  Montana,  produced  similar  results. 

These  markets  are  now  nearly  or  quite  closed,  and  trade  in  the  Territory  is  more 
depressed  than  since  1850.  This  may  cause  the  people  to  turn  their  attention 
to  mining,  a  pursuit  hitherto  neglected  owing  to  the  greater  profits  derived  from 
agriculture.  The  favorable  notice  taken  of  the  recent  discoveries  of  mines  on 
the  east  side  of  Green  river  is  evidence  in  point.  The  most  potent  cause  of  the 
increase  of  the  population  is  the  encom'agement  extended  to  emigration  from 
foreign  countries.  Nearl}^  nine-tenths  of  the  adult  population  are  of  foreign 
birth.  Salt  Lake  City  has  a  population  of  about  19,000  inhabitants.  It  is  a 
lieautifnlly  laid-out  town.  The  streets  are  wide,  with  streams  of  clear  water 
ninning  on  each  side.  The  carriage-ways  are  separated  from  the  sidewalks  by 
rows  of  trees,  which  present  a  refreshing  appearance  in  summer  to  the  way-worn 
traveller  who  has  crossed  the  deserts.  The  private  houses,  built  chiefl}'  of  wood, 
are  perishal)le,  luit  the  })ublic  edifices  are  constructed  of  stone  and  wood,  and  are 
durable  and  highly  creditable  to  the  skill  and  enterprise  of  the  inhabitants.  The 
tabeniacle,  the  i)rincipal  place  of  worship,  is  capable  of  seating  10,000  people. 
The  width  of  the   streets,  the  umbrageous  rows  of  trees,  the  great  number  of 

*  Lorin  Blodget,  in  his  Report  on  the  Climatology  of  the  United  States,  says:  "The 
Basin  refjion  as  a  whole  can  hardly  be  said  to  be  one  of  periodical  rains  north  of  tlie  o.'Sth 
parallel,  however  deiicient  the  quantity  is,  and  however  abortive — as  it  may  be  said — the 
rains  are,  as  rej^ards  vegetation  and  practical  cliijiatoligy.  The  rain  of  summer,  from  the 
middle  of  June  forward,  is  practically  valueless  in  cultivation  for  the  vicinity  of  Gr(5at  Salt 
Lake,  and  the  flourishing  settlements  there  are  sustained  by  irrigation.  Cultivation  would 
clearly  require  this  aid  everywhere,  and  as  the  Avinters  are  not  available  in  bringing  crops 
forward  as  in  California,  irrigation  may  not  be  dispensed  with  as  it  may  be  there.  It  is  unim- 
portant to  many  of  the  best  crops  of  California,  wheat  among  them,  that  there  is  no  rain 
whatever  in  summer,«  since  they  are  so  far  advanced  in  the  mild  winter  that  the  summer  is 
only  requisite  to  ripen  them.  But  in  no  part  of  the  Basin  is  this  adajjtatiou  practicable,  so 
far  as  known.  The  extent  of  summer  required  is  similar  to  that  of  like  latitudes  in  the 
Atlantic  States,  and  the  deficiency  of  rain  therefore  is  destructive,  if  irrigation  is  impracti- 
cable." 

<i  Except  on  the  seacoast  north  of  Mendocino  City ;  from  which  point  occasional  gummer  rains  prevail, 
increasing  in  frequency  towards  the  north. — J.  R.  B. 


484  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

orcliards  and  gardens  in  tlie  Leart  of  the  city,  and  the  incombustible  nature  of 
the  houses,  give  a  country  appearance  to  the  city,  and  render  fu-es  ahiiost  unknown. 
The  small  size  of  the  farms  is  favorable  to  high  cultivation.  As  a  consequence, 
the  greater  part  of  Salt  Lake  valley  is  under  better  cultivation  than  any  region 
west  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  except,  perhaps,  around  the  bay  of  San  Francisco. 

The  system  of  imgation  is  excellent  and  extensive.  Fanners  in  the  eastern 
States  might  learn  much  here  that  would  be  valuable  tothem.  From  a  report  of  the 
Deseret  Agricultural  Society  of  January  11,  1866,  it  appears  that  ''there  have 
been  constructed  277  main  canals,  in  length  amounting  to  1,043  miles,  102  rods, 
at  a  mean  width  of  5  feet  6  inches,  and  a  mean  depth  of  2  feet  2  inches,  which 
water  153,949  acres  of  land,  at  a  cost  of  $1,766,939,  and  that  there  is  in  com'se 
of  construction  canals  at  an  estimated  cost  of  $900,000." 

Ogden  is  a  flourishing  town  on  the  east  side  of  the  lake,  and  ranks  next  to 
Salt  Lake  City  in  population  and  importance. 


SECTION    II. 


MINES    AND    MINING. 


In  tlie  spur  of  the  Wasatch,  on  the  east  side  of  Salt  lake,  gold  has  been  found 
in  very  minute  quantities.  Some  of  the  quartz  assayed  about  $2  per  ton.  The 
mountains  at  this  point  trend  west  of  north  and  east  of  south.  The  country  rock 
is  granite,  and  quartz  is  abundant. 

The  thermal  springs  in  this  vicinity  show  the  presence  of  sulphate  of  u'on, 
and  possibly  mines  of  value  may  be  found  in  this  spiu'  of  the  mountain. 

Miis'EESViLLE. — The  western  part  of  the  temtory,  adjoining  Nevada,  so  far  as 
known,  is  the  richest  in  metals.  At  Miuersville  are  mines  of  lead  and  copper,  which 
contain  some  gold  and  silver.  One  of  the  mines  has  been  worked  to  a  depth  of  90 
feet.  At  this  point  the  copper  predominated,  and  the  working  of  the  mine  for  lead 
was  suspended.  The  lead  was  smelted  to  supply  the  territory.  While  lead  pre- 
vailed working  of  the  mine  was  remunerative.  No  effort  -was  made  to  recover 
tlie  silver,  although  in  many  countries  this  would  have  been  profitable.  By  open- 
ing the  mine  at  other  ]X)ints,  no  doubt  lead  ore  of  the  same  quality  as  that  worked 
could  be  obtained.  The  percentage  of  silver  contained  in  the  lead  and  copper 
ores  of  this  district  is  sufficient  to  justify  the  conclusion  that  the  working  of  these 
mines  will  be  a  source  of  profit  at  some  future  day. 

Rusn  Valley. — This  district  abounds  in  veins  containing  argentiferous 
galena  and  ct)pper.  In  1865  there  was  considerable  excitement  about  these 
mines.  Companies  were  organized  b}-  officers  of  the  army  at  Salt  Lake  City, 
and  some  develo])ments  were  made.  Smelting  works  were  erected  at  the  mines, 
but  the  smelting  failed  to  extract  the  metal  in  a  satisfactory  manner,  and  the 
expenses  incident  to  enterprises  of  this  kiiul,  in  a  new  country,  rendered  opera- 
tions very  costly.  Silver  occurs  in  galena  in  the  aanie  irregular  manner  as  in 
quartz^  Many  suppose  that  if  a  vein  of  galena  assays  well  in  one  part  it  will 
do  the  same  in  all;  an  erroneous  fdea,  as  miners  frequentl}-  find  to  then-  cost. 
When  transjiortation  is  cheaper,  fuel  more  abundant,  and  labor  cheaper,  these 
mines  will  dou])tless  be  valuable.  At  present  no  profit  is  likely  to  be  derived 
from  working  them. 

Coal. — The  eastern  part  of  the  territory  contains  large  seams  of  coal.  As  it 
has  been  found  as  far  south  as  Pahranagat  and  at  San  Pete,  it  is  not  improbable 
it  abounds  in  many  parts  of  the  Green  River  valley.  That  said  to  be  from  San 
Pete  is  a  firm  bituminous  coal,  considered  by  many  superior  to  any  found  west 
of  the  Rocky  mountains,  but  its  quality  must  be  thoroughly  proved  in  large 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  485 

amounts  before  it  can  be  pronounced  equal  to  the  bituminous  coal  of  Pennsyl- 
vanin. 

The  coal  front  I^ahranagat  is  found  about  300  miles  southwest  from  Salt  Lake 
City  ;  that  from  San  Pete  120  miles  south.  About  80  miles  east  from  the  city 
coal  is  found  very  abundantly.  These  discoveries  tend  to  justify  the  conclusion 
that  coal  exists  in  larg-e  (luantities  in  the  Territory.  As  soon  as  a  marketis  opened, 
the  ileniand  can  lie  supplied  from  these  coalfields.  Owing  to  the  scarcity  of  fuel 
in  the  tniuing  regions  of  the  eastern  part  of  Nevada  and  the  western  part  of 
I'tah,  where  most  of  the  silver,  copper,  and  lead  ores  must  be  smelted,  coal  will 
in  time  be  in  great  demand. 

AnfJiracifc. — The  most  interesting  discovery  in  this  connecticn  is  anthracite 
coal.  Scientific  men  have  long  been  seeking  in  vain  to  find  anthracite  west  of  the 
liocky  mountains.  It  has  recently  been  found  on  Green  river.  An  old  iron-worker 
from  the  anthracite  regions  of  Pennsylvania  says  the  deposit  is  identically  the 
same.  The  coal  is  heavy,  and  will  not  bum  with  a  flame.  When  used  in  a 
blacksmith's  forge  it  gives  an  intense  heat.  This  article  has  been  tried  and 
found  to  answer  all  the  purposes  required  of  it. 

Pacific  Railkoad. — The  advantages  to  be  derived  from  the  construction 
of  the  Pacific  railroad  will  be  beyond  computation.  Branch  railroads  will  fol- 
lo\\',  and  these  coal  fields  will  eventually  be  opened  up.  The  number  of  coal 
seams  visible  along  the  canons  in  eastern  Utah  is  remarkable.  Many  of  them 
are  of  large  size;  some  are  said  to  be  15  feet  thick.  Occasionally  they  can  be 
traced  four  or  five  miles.  They  are  so  numerous  and  easily  found  that  the  inhab- 
itants do  not  locate  them.  It  would  be  difilcult  to  imagine  such  an  abundance 
of  valuable  coal  deposits  in  Nevada  or  California  as  to  preclude  location.  Utah* 
appears  to  be  nearly  in  its  normal  condition.  The  recent  elevations  and  depres- 
sions are  slight ;  consequently  in  mining  for  coal  it  is  probable  few  faults  will 
be  found.  The  great  number  of  veins  near  the  surface  will  furnish  that  article 
for  years  to  come  without  deep  mining  or  the  use  of  expensive  machinery  for  hoist- 
ing or  pumping.  If  the  coal  fields  on  Green  river  should  prove  as  extensive  and 
of  as  good  quality  as  there  is  reason  to  expect,  it  will  be  a  great  advantage  to 
the  miners  on  the  Colorado  and  at  Pahranagat,  as  w^cll  as  useful  in  the  naviga- 
tion of  the  Colorado  river.  A  thorough  exjiloration  of  the  coal  fields  of  Utah, 
Dakota,  Colorado,  and  Ifontana  is  much  needed.  It  would  probably  establish 
the  fact  that  western  coal  fields,  though  inferior  in  quality,  rival  in  extent  the 
vast  deposits  east  of  the  ]\Iississij)pi  river. 

Inox. — Iron  ore  is  alumdant  in  Utah.  Attempts  have  been  made  to  smelt  it, 
but  so  far  ^\ithout  success.  There  is  nothing  rcfractorj-  in  this  ore  to  render 
smelting  difficult  with  skill  and  the  proper  appliances.  The  demand  for  iron 
will  always  be  large  in  Utah,  and  the  cost  of  freight  from  any  other  point  of 
production  renders  it  an  inqioitant  resource  for  development.  AVith  a  large 
agi-icultural  population,  laljor  will  be  cheap.  In  every  point  of  view  Utah 
ajipears  to  have  better  facilities  for  the  production  of  iron  than  any  of  the  adjoin- 
ing States  or  Territories.  The  profit  on  agricultural  pursuits  Avill  become  less 
every  year,  for  many  years  to  come.  All  the  adjacent  mining  States  and  Ten'i- 
tories  will  soon  raise  their  own  stock  and  grain.  With  the  exception  of  New 
Mexico  and  Arizona  they  are  now  doing*  it  to  a  great  extent,  so  that  there  will 
be  only  a  home  market  for  the  produce  of  Utah.  This  will  have  a  tendency  to 
tuiTi  the  attention  of  the  inhabitants  to  mining  and  manufactures.  In  the  latter 
branch  of  industry  they  are  already  actively  engaged. ' 

Salt. — Salt  can  be  produced  in  unlimited  quantities,  both  for  home  consump- 
tion and  export.  When  the  railroad  is  completed  it  will  probably  ]»ay  to  trans- 
port this  article  to  the  markets  of  the  Atlantic.  In  the  State  of  Nevada  salt  is 
so  cheap  and  abundant  that  it  will  not  pay  to  send  it  west  from  Utah. 

Soda  exists  in  vast  beds  in  man}-  parts  of  the  Territory.  When  labor  and 
freight  aie  clieaper  this  will  probably  be  an  article  of  export. 


486  EESOUECES    OP   STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

CoTTO^■^^ooD  Canox  is  about  27  miles  southeast  jEi-om  Salt  Lake  City,  in  the 
Wasatch  mountains.  It  contains  several  silver  mines.  A  ]Mr.  Hirst  is  mnnino' 
two  furnaces  there  at  present.  They  ai'e  not  on  an  extensive  scale,  but  the  results 
are  satisfactory.  Hirst  thinks  his  ore  wall  yield  $200  to  the  ton.  He  has  a 
German  to  manage  his  works,  who  is  reputed  to  be  skilful.  The  veins  occur 
in  limestone,  and  ore  exists  at  the  surface  in  abundance.  This  is  a  valuable 
lead-mining  district.     The  ore  is  remarkably  free  from  antimonj-. 

General  Coxcltjsioxs. — The  Territory  of  Utah  will  undoubtedly  become 
in  time  an  important  and  prosperous  State.  It  possesses  a  gi'eat  variety  of 
resources.  Whatever  may  be  the  opinions  entertained  as  to  the  peculiar  institu- 
tions existing  there  at  present,  none  can  deny  that  its  population  is  industrious 
and  enterprising.  A  people  who  have  redeemed  the  deserts  by  a  vast  system 
of  imgation,  built  u}*  cities,  inaugurated  an  excellent  school  system,  established 
manufactures  of  nearly  all  the  articles  necessaiy  for  the  use  of  man,  opened  up 
roads  in  every  direction,  and  supplied  the  miners  of  the  adjacent  Temtories  for 
several  years  with  their  products,  cannot  fail  to  achieve  a  condition  of  high 
prosperity  in  the  future.  Contact  with  their  neighbors,  who  entertain  views 
antagonistic  to  their  social  institutions,  vn\l  remedy  the  evils  under  which  they 
now  labor.  As  they  become  more  intelligent  the  impolicy  of  isolating  them- 
selves from  the  moral  sympathies  of  the  world  will  become  appai-ent,  and  their 
patience,  industry,  and  self-reliance  vnW  be  turned  to  good  account, 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


487 


MONTANA. 

S  ECTIOX    I. 

AREA.  AND  rOPTTLATION— MOUNTAINS  AND  VALLEYS— GEOLOGICAL  FEA- 
TURES—VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS  AND  AGRICULTURAL  LANDS— TIM- 
BER   CLIMATE.  AND  NAVIGABLE  WATERS. 

]\rontaiKi,  tlie  most  recently  ori^'anized  of  the  Territories  of  the  United  States, 
is  second  only  to  California  in  the  production  of  gold.  Embracing  within  its 
limits  the  range  of  the  Rocky  i\Ionntains  and  the  heads  of  two  of  tlie  greatest 
rivers  that  wind  their  long  and  devious  courses  through  the  lower  countries  to  the 
Pacilic  and  Atlantic  oceans,  this  Temtory  may  justly  claim  the  appelhition  of 
the  "  Golden  Summit."  Extending  from  the  45th  to  the  49tli  parallel  of  north, 
latitude,  and  from  the  27th  to  the  39th  meridian  west  from  Washington,  it  con- 
tains an  area,  according  to  the  report  of  the  Commissioner  of  the  General  Land 
Office,  of  143,776  square  miles,  (92,016,640  acres,)  bounded  by  meridians  and 
parallels  of  latitude,  except  a  ])ortion  of  the  southwestern  corner,  where  for  the 
distance  of  nearly  400  miles  the  l)onndary  follows  the  crest  of  the  Bitter  Eoot 
mountains.     The  popnlation  is  about  32,000.* 

^MouxTAixs. — In  this  Tenitory  the  most  striking  geographical  feature  is  the 
great  range  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  extending  3;30  miles  from  its  southern  to 
its  northern  boundary,  and  in  width  over  200  miles.  This  range,  with  its  spm's, 
occupies  fully  half  the  Temtory.  The  main  chain  of  mountains  is  split  up  into 
a  number  of  diilerent  ranges,  as  the  Bitter  Root,  which  is  the  highest  and  the 

*  Langley,  in  his  Pacific  Coast  Directory,  a  publication  generally  accurate,  estimates  the 
population  as  follows : 

Table  exfiibiting  the  principal  cities  and  totcns  of  Montana  Territory,  the  county  in  ichiclt  each 
js  located,  the  estimated  population  in  September,  18t)6,  and  the  distance  from  l^irginia  City, 
the  territorial  capital. 


Bfinnack  City 

Benton  City 

Bliicklbot  City.. 
DierLi.dgeCity. 
Reynolds  City... 

Silver  Bow 

Helena 

Bozeuian 

Dennison 

Giillalin  City 

Prickly  Pear 

Nevada  City 

Stirling  (;ity 

.Summit  City 

Virginia  City 

Diaiiioiid  City  ... 
MisHoulu  MiU:!... 


Total. 


County. 


Beaver  Head 

Clioteau 

Deer  Lodge . 

, ...  do 

...  do , 

...  do , 

Edgurton 

Gallatin 

...do , 

...  do 

Jefferson 

Madioon 

...do 

...do 

...  do , 

Meagher 

Missoula 


No.  of  miles  from 
Virginia  City. 


70i  W. 


400 
200 

80 
180 
100 
1-25 

60 
155 
100 

90 
2 

30 


N.  W. 
N.  W. 

N.  \V. 

N.  W. 

W. 

N. 

E. 

N.  E. 

N.  E. 

N. 

N.W. 

E. 

S. 


1G5  N.  E. 
150  W. 


Estimated  A^p- 
ulation. 


80C 
1.  500 
2.000 
1,500 
2, 000 
1,250 
8, 000 

2(10 
1.  .500 

500 

230 
2-  000 

500 

1,  ODD 
4.000 

2,  oo;) 

500 


29, 500 


The  surveyor  general  of  tlio  Territory,  in  his  report  of  1807,  mikes  the  following  o.^^tiiuate: 
"  I  may  be  safe  in  estimating  the  entire  population  at  40,0UU,  and  it  is  contiilently  believed 
that  it  will  reach  GO.tiUU  in  JdtJd  should  there  bo  no  Indian  troubles  along  the  overland 
routes.  *  *  »  The  class  of  citizens  who  are  eomiiig  into  the  Territory  are  generally 
those  who  intend  making  it  their  homes.  Hence  many  I'ainilies  are  coming  and  s'<i^ling  up 
the  dift'erent  valleys.  The  farming  population  is  fast  increasing,  and  a  great  number  of 
miners  find  it  profitable  to  devote  their  time  to  agriculture." 

The  reports  of  the  county  assessors  for  J8G5  and  1866  do  not  warrant  the  belief  that  the 
increase  has  been  so  rapid.  My  opinion  is  the  population  at  this  time  does  not  exceed 
32,000.— J.  R.  B. 


488  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

most  westerly,  and  the  Eoclvy,  Wind  Eiver,  Big  Honi,  and  Belt  ranges.  All 
of  these  have  a  trend  northwest  and  southeast,  and  all  contain  mines  of  gold 
and  silver.  Their  height  has  not  heen  detennined,  hut  it  is  probably  from 
10,000  to  14,000  feet,  the  highest  peak  being  covered  with  peq^etnal  snow. 
This  great  extent  of  mountain  ranges  causes  the  condensation  of  "a  large  amount 
of  moisture  from  the  atmosphere,  which  falls  principally  in  the  form  of  snow. 
Gradually  melting  during  the  wami  season,  it  thoroughly  saturates  the  earth, 
inducing  a  fine  growth  of  grass  and  timber  throughout  the  mountain  regions.* 

The  Territory  is  divided  by  these  ranges  into  a  number  of  basins,  and  their 
spurs  subdivide  each  basin  into  a  number  of  valleys,  which  contain  nearly  all 
the  towns  and  settlements,  and  the  greater  part  of  its  agricultural  as  well  as 
nearh^  all  its  mineral  resources.  The  mountains  ai-e  greatly  abraded  by  the 
agencies  of  rains,  frosts,  and  glacial  action,  leaving  them  smooth  and  much  less 
rocky  and  precipitous  than  the  Cascade  range  in  Oregon,  or  the  Sierra  Nevada 
in  California.  The  Bitter  Root  is  the  most  ragged  and  continuous  in  its  height. 
Th-e  other  ranges  are  full  of  low  passes,  with  none  of  those  lofty  peaks  that  are 
found  farther  south  in  Colorado. 

All  the  mountains  appear  to  be  old  and  weather-woni,  and  almost  at  the  very 
summits  of  the  highest  ranges  beds  of  gravel  containing  placer  gold  have  been 
formed  from  the  disintegration  of  the  neighboring  peaks.  Thus  placer  mines 
are  found  on  the  mountain  top,  differing  in  this  respect  from  the  SieiTa  Nevadas, 
where  placer  gold  is  almost  invariabh'  found  in  the  foot-hills.  In  the  northern 
part  of  the  Territory  the  mountain  regions  have  been  prospected  only  sufficiently 
to  prove  the  existence  of  gold.  The  hostility  of  the  Indians  has  prevented  a 
thorough  exploration,  or  any  pennanent  working  of  the  mineral  deposits.! 

*  The  following  from  Lewis  and  Clarke's  Narrative  describes  the  country  westward  from 
the  main  ridge  of  the  Bitter  Root  mountains.     It  is  applicable  to  a  large  area  of  Montana : 

"The  country  along  the  Rocky  mountains  for  several  hundred  miles  in  length,  and  about 
50  wide,  is  a  high  level  plain,  in  all  its  parts  extremely  fertile,  and  in  many  places  covered 
with  a  growth  of  tall,  long-leaved  pine.  This  plain  is  chiefly  intermpted  near  the  streams 
of  water,  where  the  hills  are  steep  and  lofty,  but  the  soil  is  good,  being  unincumbered  by 
much  stone,  and  possesses  more  timber  than  the  level  country.  Under  shelter  of  these  hills 
tlie  bottom  lands  skirt  the  margin  of  the  rivers,  and  though  narrow  and  confined,  are  still 
fertile  and  rarely  inundated.  Nearly  the  whole  of  this  wide-spread  tract  is  covered  with  a 
profusion  of  grass  and  plants  which  are  at  this  time  as  high  as  the  knees.  Among  these  are 
a  variety  of  esculent  roots,  acquired  without  much  difficulty,  and  yielding  not  only  a  nutri- 
tious but  a  very  agreeable  food.  The  air  is  pure  and  diy,  the  climate  quite  as  mild  if  not 
milder  than  the  same  parallel  of  latitude  in  the  Atlantic  States,  and  must  be  equally  healthy, 
for  all  the  disorders  which  we  have  witnessed  may  fairly  be  imputed  more  to  the  nature  of 
the  diet  than  to  any  intemperance  of  climate." 

t  Professor  G.  C.  Swallow,  formerly  State  geologist  of  Missouri,  says,  iu  a  late  letter  to 
Governor  Smith : 

"  Veins  of  gold,  silver,  copper,  and  lead  have  been  found  in  great  numbers  in  nearly  all  the 
explored  mountainous  portions  of  the  Territory ;  and  placer  gold  is  as  widely  distributed. 
Many  of  the  gulches  have  proved  vastly  rich,  and  some  of  them  very  extensive.  So  far  as 
discovered,  these  veins  come  to  the  surface  on  the  foot-hills,  and  on  the  sides  of  the  valleys  and 
canons,  and  some  of  them  cut  the  mountains  to  their  very  tops.  A  large  portion  of  the  lodes 
are  true  veins,  cutting  through  granite,  syenite  porphyry,  trap,  gneiss,  mica  slate,  hornblende 
slate,  talcose  slate,  argillaceous  slate,  sandstone,  aud  limestone.  These  lodes  vary  iu  thick- 
ness from  a  mire  line  to  5U  and  (iO  feet.  The  gangue  or  vein  rock,  called  quartz  by  the  miner, 
is  very  variable  in  character.  In  the  gold-bearing  lodes  it  is  usually  whitish  quartz,  more  or 
loss  ferruginous,  often  nearly  all  iron.  In  some  veins  it  resembles  a  stratified  quartzite ;  in 
a  few  it  is  syenitic,  pyrites,  hornblende,  calc  spar,  arsenic,  antimony,  copper.  Tellurium 
and  micaceous  iron  are  tbund  in  these  veins.  In  the  silver  lodes  the  iron,  so  abundant  in 
the  gold  veins,  is  often  replaced  by  the  oxide  of  manganese.  This  mineral  is  sometimes  so 
abundant  as  to  constitute  a  large  portion  of  the  gangue. 

"  The  gangue,  in  many  of  the  copper  veins,  is  made  up  of  quartz,  heavy  spar,  calc  spar, 
brown  S]iar,  and  oxides  ot  iron.  Man}'  thousand  lodes  of  gold,  silver,  and  copper  have  been 
already  discovered  and  recorded,  aud  many  of  them  more  or  less  developed.  It  is  true  here, 
as  well  as  in  all  other  mining  districts,  that  a  large  part  of  the  lodes  discovered  cannot  be 
profitably  worked  by  the  methods  usually  adopted  in  new  mining  regions ;  but  many  of  those 
which  cannot  now  be  worked  with  proiitable  results  will  become  valuable  when  experience 
has  proved  the  best  methods,  and  wheu  labor  and  materials  can  be  had  at  ordinary  prices." 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  489 

Tlio  c't't^loiiT  of  Montami  is  almost  entirely  unknown.  Tlic  Rocky  mountains 
are  cliictly  composed  of  granite,  o-neiss,  and  synite,  and  may  bo  pretty  certainly 
assiirned  to  the  Arzoic.  Ca})tain  John  Mullan  gives  the  following  general 
description  of  the  mountain  ranges  and  their  geological  formation  : 

Looking:  back  upon  our  route,  we  saw  we  had  followed  Bitter  Root  river  to  its  heatl, 
which  we  J'ouiul  from  its  mouth  to  be  Uf)  miles  lonp^,  llowiiip:  through  a  wide  and  beautiful 
valley,  wliose  soil  is  fertile  and  productive,  well  timbered  with  the  pine  and  cottouwood,  but 
■whose  chief  characteristic  and  capability  is  that  of  grazinfj  large  herds  of  cattle,  and  afi'ord- 
iug  exct'lleut  mill  sites  along  the  numerous  streams  flowing  from  the  moiuitaius.  The  country 
thence  is  watered  by  tributaries  to  the  Missouri  and  its  fork,  to  the  range  of  mountains  sepa- 
rating these  waters  from  those  of  the  Snake  river,  or  tho  south  branch  of  Lewis'  tork  of  the 
Columbia,  and  is  also  fertile,  but  its  characteristic  feature  is  the  great  scarcity  of  timber  for 
any  purpose,  the  willow  and  wild  sage  being  used  for  fuel  along  the  whole  route.  The  geo- 
logical formation  of  this  section  belongs  to  the  tertiary  period.  The  capability  of  this  broad 
area,  however,  for  grazing  is  excellent.  *  *  *  rpj^^  whole  country  is  formed  of 
a  series  of  beds  of  mountainous  ranges  or  ridges,  with  their  intervening  valleys,  all  of  which 
are  well  defined  and  marked,  the  decomposition  and  washings  of  the  rocks  of  the  mountains 
giving  character  to  the  soil  of  the  valleys,  which  may  be  termed,  as  a  general  thing,  fertile. 
The  geological  formations  along  the  Jetferson  fork  and  its  principal  tributaries  are  limestone 
and  conglomerate  rock.  From  the  range  called  the  Snake  river  divide,  the  whole  character 
of  the  country  is  completely  changed.  Here  the  geological  formation  is  basaltic  and  volcanic 
principally.  None  of  the  numenuis  streams  and  rivulets  flowing  from  the  mountains  along 
the  route  we  travelled  emptied  into  the  Snake  river,  but  either  sunk  into  the  ground  or  formed 
small  lakes  in  the  broad  valley  of  Snake  river.  The  ground  in  most  places  is  formed  prin- 
cipally of  sand,  and  where  large  beds  of  basalt  are  not  found,  the  ground  is  of  a  dry,  absorb- 
ing natiu'e,  through  which  the  water  sinks,  at  times  bursting  out  again.  It  was  somewhat  sin- 
gular that,  for  tiU  miles  above  Fort  Hall,  along  the  main  stream  of  Snake  river,  we  did  not 
cross  but  one  tributary,  and  that  coming  in  from  the  south,  while  none  came  in  from  the  north  ; 
all  of  the  streams,  as  before  mentioned,  either  forming  lakes  or  sinking  into  the  ground. 
This  section  is  also  noted  for  the  great  scarcity  of  timber,  and  the  immense  plains  of  wild 
sage,  which  is  so  abundant  that  it  merits  the  name  of  the  sage  desert  of  the  mountain.  It 
extends  for  many  miles  in  length  and  breadth,  forming  an  immense  ocean  of  prairie,  whose 
saaaeuess  is  only  broken  by  the  "Three  Buttes"  of  the  valley,  which  rise  like  islands  in  the 
8ea  in  this  broad  and  barren  area.  (Report  on  the  construction  of  a  military  road  from  Fort 
Walla- Walla  to  Fort  Benton.) 

Vegetable  Products. — In  tlie  fertile  soil  of  the  valleys  wheat,  barley,  and 
oats  grow  W'ell,  and  good  crops  are  produced.  Rye  and  buckwheat  would  also 
flom-ish,  but  Indian  corn  would  probably  fail.*     Potatoes  grow  in  the  greatest 

There  are,  however,  a  very  large  number  of  large  and  rich  lodes  which  will  yield  large  profits 
even  at  the  present  prices  of  labor  and  materials.  Some  of  the  lodes  of  both  gold  and  silver 
will  rank  among  the  largest  and  richest  in  the  annals  of  mining.  In  regard  to  the  want  of 
success  in  some  of  the  mining  operations  in  the  Territory,  it  may  be  said  that  such  partial 
failures  arc  incident  to  all  mining  regions,  particularly  in  the  early  operations  of  new  regions, 
Montana  is  particularly  exposed  to  delays  of  success  from  its  remoteness  from  machine  shops, 
where  the  machinery  used  may  be  altereil  and  repaired  to  suit  the  exigencies  constantly  arising. 
But  all  these  hindrances  to  inunediate  and  full  success  in  quartz  mining  operations  will  soon 
be  removed.  They  are  obvious  to  all  aciiuaiuled  with  the  business,  and  are  such  as  will  natu- 
rally pass  away.  Better  mills  are  being  put  up,  better  lodes  are  bought  in  larger  cpiautities, 
better  management  is  secured,  and  the  owners  of  quartz  property  are  offering  better  facilities 
to  those  who  wish  to  work  their  mines;  capital  is  seeking  this  source  of  wealth,  and  good 
financiers  are  o]M'rating  in  Montana  mining  ]}roiierty.  The  placer  mines  are  not  yielding  so  much 
as  at  some  former  periods.  Many  new  localities  have  been  discovered,  and  large  sums  have 
been  expended  in  conducting  water  to  favored  localities,  and  there  is  every  reason  to  believe 
that  the  placers  will,  the  coming  year,  yield  many  more  millions  to  the  hardy  toilers  who 
Lave  labored  so  faithfully  and  successfully  in  securing  this  "golden  harvest  "  The  quartz 
mining  operations  are  now  in  a  better  condition  to  secure  success  than  ever  before,  and  tho 
men  who  have  discovered  and  partially  developed  the  silver,  gold,  and  copper  lodes,  have  been 
long  inured  to  disappointments  and  hardships,  and  will  not  yield  to  any  ordinary  obstacles; 
and  we  may  safely  believe  that  1(),(JU0  of  such  earnest,  skilful,  hardy  men  will  achieve  mag- 
nificent results  in  such  a  field  as  the  mines  of  Montana  present. 

*Professor  Swallow  says:  ''The  results  already  obtained  from  herding  and  the  culti- 
vation of  our  own  rich  valleys  are  such  as  to  remove  every  reasonable  doubt  of  the  entire 
success  of  agricultural  pursuits  in  the  Territory.  It  certainly  is  one  of  the  finest  stock  coun- 
tries on  the  continent.  All  the  more  important  domestic  animals  and  lowls  do  remark- 
ably well.  Horses  and  mules  and  neat  cattle  are  more  hardy  and  kept  in  better  condition 
on  the  native  glasses,  bay  and  grain.     As  a  general  rule  they  winter  well  in  the  valleys  and 


490        EESOUPX'ES  OF  STATES  AND  TERRITORIES 

perfection,  and  their  flavor  if  not  superior  is  equal  to  that  of  any  in  America. 
The  residents  of  Montana  l)elieve  that  their  potatoes  are  superior  in  dryness  and 
mealiness  to  any  in  the  world,  Ireland  and  California  not  excepted.  Beets,  peas, 
onions,  cabbages,  cucumbers,  radishes,  parsnips  and  turnips  grow  finely,  while  in 
the  wannest  valleys  melons  and  tomatoes  come  to  maturity.  Bitter-root,  a  small 
]i]ant  flowering  in  June — the  root  three  inches  long,  one-fourth  inch  ^n  diame- 
ter, and  very  often  forked — grows  in  many  of  the  Rocky  mountain  valleys,  and 
is  very  abundant  in  Bitter  Root  valley.  It  is  a  favorite  article  of  food  for  the 
Flathead  Indians,  who  dig  it  in  May,  and  dry  it  so  that  it  will  keep  for  years. 
Very  nutritious,  but  extremely  bitter. 

Camus,  as  an  article  of  food  for  the  Indians,  is  probably  the  most  impoi-tant 
of  the  \vild  plants.  It  is  abundant  in  all  the  northera  parts  of  the  Pacific  coast. 
It  is  a  bulbous  root,  about  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  and  grows  in  low, 
swampy  lands,  ha\ang  a  sweet  gummy  taste,  and  is  very  nutritious.  Besides 
u.sing  it  largely  when  fresh,  the  Indians  boil  it  and  afterwards  dry  it,  so  as  to 
preserve  it  for  years.  If  cultivated  it  might  become  a  valuable  culinary  vegeta- 
ble. 

Qullah  is  another  singular  article  of  food  used  by  the  Indians.  It  is  the  root 
of  a  plant  about  the  size  of  a  man's  finger,  of  a  deep  yellow  color,  growing  iu 
the  moist  land  along  the  banks  of  the  streams.  When  raw  it  is  poisonous,  but 
when  cooked  in  a  kiln,  a  process  occupying  several  days,  it  turns  to  a  black  color 
and  resembles  tobacco  in  taste  and  smell,  and  is  equally  ofiensive  to  people  not 
accustomed  to  it.* 

on  the  surrounding  foot-hills  without  hay  or  grain.  The  valleys  furnish  a  large  area  of  natu- 
ral meadows,  whose  products  are  equal  in  quantity  and  quality  to  those  of  the  cultivated 
meadows  of  the  middle  States.  Beef,  fattened  on  the  native  pastures,  is  certainly  not  inte- 
rior to  the  best  produced  iu  the  country.  The  smallgrains,  wheat,  rye,  barley  and  oats, 
produce  as  large  an  average  yield  as  in  the  most  favored  grain-producing  States.  Of  the 
native  fruits,  we  have  choke  cherries,  service  berries,  currants,  gooseberries,  blueberries, 
raspberries,  and  strawberries  can  be  cultivated  as  successfulij-  as  in  the  New  England  States. 

"All  the  more  important  root  crops,  such  as  potatoes,  turnips,  rutabagas,  beets,  carrots, 
parsnips,  radishes,  and  onions,  and  the  most  valuable  garden  vegetables,  are  cultivated  with 
great  success.  Timber  is  abundant  on  the  mountain  slopes  and  iu  some  of  the  valleys.  Five 
species  of  pine,  two  of  fir,  one  of  spruce,  and  two  of  cedar,  grow  on  the  mountains,  and  in 
the  mountain  valleys  and  canons  ;  balsam,  poplars,  aspens,  alders,  and  willows,  on  the  streams 
and  iu  the  moist  valleys. 

"The  pines,  firs,  spruces,  and  cedars  furnish  an  abundance  of  good  timber  for  building, 
mining,  and  farming  purposes.  The  purest  waters  flon  everywhere  in  cool  springs,  moun- 
tain streams,  meadow  brooks,  and  clear  rapid  rivers.  Hot  and  mineral  springs  also  occur  in 
various  parts  of  the  Territory.  Beautiful  lakes  and  magnificent  falls  and  cascades  are 
numerous  in  the  mountains." 

*  Professor  A.  K.  Eaton,  in  a  recent  report  to  Governor  Green  Clay  Smith,  says  of  the 
agricultural  resources  and  climate  of  Montana : 

"In  a  Territory  so  far  removed  from  the  great  grain-producing  States,  the  most  vital  ques- 
tion bearing  upon  our  future  welfare  is  that  as  to  our  ability  to  become  self-sustaining  iu  all 
things  pertaining  to  the  necessaries  of  life.  If  our  success  thus  far  is  not  a  sufficient  guar- 
antee of  our  ability  to  raise  all  the  cereals,  root  crops,  &c.,  requisite  to  support  a  large 
number  of  inhabitants,  a  consideration  of  the  geological  and  topographical  formation  of  the 
country  and  its  climatic  characteristics  would  of  itself  demonstrate  that  the  soil  cannot 
fail  to  lurnish  all  that  is  essential  to  the  subsistence  of  au  unlimited  population. 

"  Our  valleys  are  very  broad,  ranging  from  five  to  fifteen  miles  in  width,  and  made  up  of 
rich  bottom  hinds  and  level  or  gently  undulating  plateaus.  The  mountain  ranges  on  either 
side  generail}'  ditfer  in  their  geological  character.  On  one  side,  granite  and  its  allied  primi- 
tive rocks,  bj'  the  disintegration  of  which  valleys  have  been  supplied  with  the  alumina  and 
alkaline  silicates  so  necessary  to  an  inexhaustible  soil ;  on  the  other,  ranges  of  secondary 
limestone,  sandstone,  &c.,  that  liave  furnished  the  additional  constituents  of  a  soil  of 
unequalled  richness.  The  want  of  rain  to  irrigate  the  lands  is  the  only  apparent  difficulty, 
and  nature  has  provided  for  this  in  the  conformation  of  the  country.  Lying,  as  these 
plateaus  do,  nearly  level,  the  mountain  streams,  which  are  frequent  and  never-failing,  are 
readily  turned  from  their  courses  and  made  to  wind  along  the  base  of  the  foot-hills,  upon  the 
outer  limits  of  the  table  lands,  and  thence  distributed  over  almost  every  foot  of  arable  laud. 
This  mode  of  irrigation  has  its  decided  advantages  over  that  of  the  natural  rain  storms  of 
regions  nearer  the  coast,  from  the  fact  that  it  is  wholly  under  the  control  of  the  fanner.     Iu 


WEST    OF    THE   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  491 

TiMBEK. — Pine  is  l)y  far  the  most  abundant  timber.  Tlic  next  is  fir.  The 
coltdiiwood,  wliioli  i^Tows  on  the  banks  of  the  streams,  is  the  only  other  tree,  and 
it  is  used  only  for  firewood,  and  oceasionally  for  log  houses.  Mountain  mahoi^any 
is  tlie  only  hard  wood  that  grows  in  the  Territory,  and  this  is  only  a  shrub.  None 
of  the  valuablehard  woods,  as  hickory,  maple,  or  ash,  grow  in  Montana. 

Climate. — The  climate  of  Montana  in  the  mountainous  parts  is  as  cold  as 
that  of  tl;e  New  England  States.  It  retards,  or  entirely  prevents,  ]daccr  mining 
for  about  half  the  year;  a«id  until  quartz  mines  are  opened,  so  that  the  miners 
can  be  employed  diu'ing  the  long  winters,  they  must  remain  idle  much  of  their 
time.  There  are,  however,  exceptional  years.  The  winter  of  1862-63  was  so 
mild  that  jtlacer  mining  was  continued  with  scarcely  an  inteiTuption  the  entire 
year.  Snow  generally  falls  to  a  great  depth,  so  that  communication  in  the 
higher  districts  is  somewhat  irregular  and  uncertain  during  the  winter.  In  the 
valleys,  where  the  altitude  is  less,  the  climate  is  milder.  In  Ueer  Lodge  and  the 
Gallatin  and  Madison  valleys  stock  continues  in  good  condition,  throughout  the 
year,  without  hay  or  grain,  the  grass  being  abundant  nearly  all  the  time.  Mon- 
tana is  a  remarkably  healthy  country.  There  seems  to  be  no  peculiar  diseases 
incident  to  the  climate.  In  the  towns  the  great  majority  of  deaths  are  either 
accidental  or  the  result  of  violence.* 

a  Territory  nearly  four  times  as  large  as  tlie  State  of  New  York,  we  have  hundreds  of  thou- 
sands of  acres  of  laud  of  this  description,  available  whenever  the  growth  of  the  country  may 
demand  its  cultivation. 

"No  disquisition,  however,  is  necessary  upon  thecharacter  of  the  soil  or  its  origin.  Facts 
demonstrate  beyond  question  the  self-sustaining  character  of  the  Territory  in  an  agricultural. 
point  of  view.  Flour  to-day  is  almost  as  cheap  as  in  the  great  grain-producing  regions  of 
the  east,  and  this  has  been  brought  about  by  the  cultivation  of  limited  patches,  here  and 
there,  of  these  broad  lands.  Our  table-lands  and  the  slopes  of  our  foot-hills,  without  irriga- 
tion,Vuruish  the  most  abundant  pasturage;  the  species  of  grass  flourishing  spontaneously 
being  of  the  most  nutritious  character,  and  in  some  respects  superior  to  the  cultivated  grasses 
of  the  east. 

"The  peculiarities  of  our  climate  demand  a  passing  remark.  The  great  wind  currents 
that  start  from  the  distant  sea- coast  regions  laden  with  moisture,  deposit  it  in  beneficent 
showers  on  their  way,  and  reach  our  inland  mountain  regions  with  scarcely  a  drop  to  moisten 
our  thirsty  soil ;  still  this  deprivation  proves  a  blessing  in  disguise.  It  gives  us  an  atmo- 
sphere comparatively  free  from  moisture,  and  makes  our  severe  winters  more  endurable  than 
even  those  of  lower  latitudes.  Our  lowlands  are  often  almost  free  from  snow  during  the 
■whole  season,  and  cattle  graze  and  grow  fat  on  the  grasses  of  our  valleys  during  our  long 
winters. 

"The  climate  is  indeed  the  m.ost  pleasant  and  salubrious  of  any  that  I  have  personally 
ever  known  ;  and  this  in  a  country  where  the  altitude  of  the  valleys  is  about  one  mile  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  and  lying  between  45'-'  and  id'^  north  latitude." 

^  Captain  Mullan  says  in  his  report: 

"The  temperature  of  Walla-Walla,  in  4G°,  is  similar  to  that  of  Washington  city,  in  38° 
latitude;  that  of  Clark's  Fork,  in  48^^,  to  that  of  St.  Joseph,  Missouri,  in  latitude  41°  ;  that 
of  the  Bitter  Eoot  valley,  in  40'^,  is  similar  to  that  of  Philadelphia,  in  latitude  40°,  with 
about  the  same  amount  of  snow,  and,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  days  of  intense  cold, 
about  the  same  tiverago  temperature.  This  condition  of  facts  is  not  accidental,  but  arises 
from  the  tnUhs  of  meteorological  laws,  that  are  as  unvarying  as  they  are  wonderful  and 
useful.  As  early  as  the  winter  of  IS^yS,  which  I  spent  in  these  mountains,  my  attention  was 
called  to  the  mi  id  open  region  lying  between  the  Deer  Lodge  valley  and  Fort  Laramie, 
where  the  butlulo  roamed  in  millions  tiuough  the  winter,  and  which,  during  that  season, 
constituted  the  great  hunting  grounds  of  the  Crows,  Blackfeet,  and  other  mountaiu  tribes. 
Upon  investigating  the  peculiarities  of  the  country,  I  learned  from  the  Indians,  and  after- 
wards confirmed  by  my  own  explorations,  the  fact  of  the  existence  of  an  infinite  number 
of  hot  springs  at  the  headwaters  of  the  Missouri,  Columbia,  and  Yellowstone  rivers,  and  that 
hot  geysers,  similar  to  those  of  CaUfornia,  existed  at  the  head  of  the  Yellowstone;  that  this 
line  of  hot  springs  was  traced  to  the  Big  Horn,  where  a  coal-oil  ."^jiring,  simUar  in  all 
respects  to  those  worked  in  western  Pennsylvania  and  Ohio,  exists,  and  where  I  am  sanguine 
in  believing  that  the  whole  country  is  underlaid  with  immense  coal  fields.  Here,  then,  was 
a  feature  sutficient  to  create  great  modifications  of  climate,  not  local  in  its  effect,  but  which 
even  extends  for  several  hundred  miles  from  the  Red  Buttes,  on  the  Platte,  to  the  plains  of 
the  Columbia. 

"A  comparison  of  the  altitude  of  the  South  pass,  with  tho  country  on  its  every  side,  with 


492  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

Navigable  Waters. — AltLoiigli  IMontana  is  abundantly  supplied  with  rivers 
canying  large  bodies  of  water,  the  great  altitude  of  the  TeiTitory  induces  such 
rapid  currents  as  to  prove  serious  obstacles  to  navigation.  On  the  western  slope 
the  rivers  are  unnavigable  for  anything  except  rafts,  small  boats,  and  canoes, 
their  courses  being  continually  interrupted  by  shoals,  rapids,  and  falls.  On  the 
eastern  slope,  the  Missouri  has  a  light-draught  steamboat  navigation  of  over  300 
miles  to  Fort  Benton,  and  steamboats  have  ascended  nearly  to  the  Great  Falls, 
situated  about  50  miles  above.  Fort  Benton  is  the  depot  of  supplies  for  the 
whole  Territory,  and  even  to  this  point  navigation  is  very  uncertain.  In  dry 
seasons  the  water  is  scant  on  the  shoals,  and,  as  the  ))anks  are  unsettled,  the 
boats  have  to  be  supplied  with  fuel  by  cutting  wood.  In  many  places  wood  is 
very  scarce,  and  has  to  be  carried  on  the  backs  of  men  for  a  mile  or  more. 
Vexatious  delays  are  the  result.  Every  year  the  wood  is  getting  scarcer  and 
more  difficult  to  procm-e.  The  hostility  of  the  Indians  also  renders  navigation 
perilous  at  this  time. 

Coal  is  found  some  distance  below  Fort  Benton.  When  mining  for  this  article 
is  carried  on  extensively  it  will  probably  supply  the  steamers  with  a  sufficiency 
of  fuel.  It  is  a  brown  or  lignite,  probably  in  the  cretaceous  formation,  and  is 
found  in  veins  of  large  size,  traceable  in  the  banks  of  the  streams  for  long 
distances.* 

Mullan'.s  pass,  further  to  the  north,  may  be  useful  in  this  connection.  The  South  pass  has 
an  altitude  of  7,489  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  Wind  River  chain,  to  its  north, 
rises  till  it  attains,  at  Fremont's  peak,  an  elevation  of  13,570  feet,  while  to  the  north  the 
mountains  inciease  in  altitude  till  they  attain,  at  Long's  peak,  an  elevation  of  l.'>,000  feet; 
while  the  plains  to  the  east  have  an  elevation  of  6.0UU  feet,  and  the  mountains  to  the  west, 
forming  the  east  rim  of  the  great  basin,  have  an  elevation  of  8,234  feet,  and  the  country 
between  it  and  the  South  pass  an  elevation  of  6,234  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The 
highest  point  on  the  road  in  the  Summit  line  at  Mullan's  pass  has  an  elevation  of  6,000  feet, 

which  is  lower  by  1,489  feet  than  the  South  pass. 

#  **  »  *  *  «  * 

"The  high  range  of  the  Wind  River  chain  stands  as  a  curvilinear  wall  to  deflect  and  direct 
the  currents  ot  the  atmosphere  as  they  sweep  across  the  continent.  (By-the-by,  whence 
arises  the  name  of  the  Wind  River  chain  ?)  All  their  slopes  are  well  located  to  reflect  back 
the  direct  rays  of  the  heat  of  the  sun  to  the  valleys  that  lay  at  their  bases.  These  valleys, 
already  warm  by  virtue  of  the  hot  springs  existing  among  them,  receive  this  accumulative 
lieat,  which,  driven  by  the  new  currents  of  cold  air  from  the  plains,  rises  and  moves  onward 
in  the  form  of  a  river  towards  the  valleys  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  where  it  joins  the  milder 
current  from  the  Pacific  and  diffuses  over  the  whole  region  a  mild,  healthy,  invigorating, 
and  useful  climate."    (Mullan's  Report,  pp.  53,  54.) 

T hermumetrical  data  furnished  by  J.  L.  Corbett,  civil  engineer,  Virginia  City,  Montana. 

J9m.— Mean  reading  during  the  mouth  of  December 5°.22  above  zero. 

1860. — Mean  reading  during  the  month  of  January 27°  " 

1866.— Mean  reading  during  the  month  of  February 22°  " 

Mean  during  the  three  months,  18"  above  zero. 

•1866. — Mean  during  December 31° 

1867. — Mean  during  January 23°.73 

1867.— Mean  during  February 26° 

The  mean  during  March,  1867,  is  unknown,  as  only  the  coldest  days  were  registered,  which 
were  as  follows:  March  11,  at  7.30  a.m.,  0° ;  at  8.20  a.m.,  5°;  at  1  p.m.,  1°;  at  6  p.m., 
12";  at  10  p.m.,  18",  or  below  zero.  March  12,  at  7  a.  m.,  18°;  at  10  a.  m.,  12°;  at  5  p.  m., 
6°  ;  at  6  p.  m.,  16"  ;  at  9. 15  p.  m.,  22°.  March  13,  at  7  a.  m.,  24°  ;  at  1  p.  m.,  10°,  or  above 
zero  ;  at  10  p.  m.,  3",  or  above  zero.     Weatlier  moderate  afterwards. 

Twent3--four  degrees  below  zero  is  the  greatest  cold  experienced  during  the  past  three 
winters  at  this  place.  Mean  during  the  winter  months  for  the  past  twc;  winters,  22"  above 
zero.  Mean  of  barometer  reading,  2,440  inches ;  altitude,  5,481  feet :  boiling  point,  202° 
Fahrenheit;  latitude,  45"  27'  35";  longitude,  about  111°  17'. 

*  Till'  sinveyor  general  of  Montana,  in  his  report  for  1867,  says: 

"  Bituminous  coal  has  been  found  on  tlie  Big  Hole  river,  about  60  miles  from  Bannack 
City ;  in  Jackass  gulch,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Madison  ;  and  at  Summit  district,  near  Vir- 
ginia City,  the  veins  being  from  three  to  four  feet  in  width.  Coal  also  exists  at  the  head  of 
the  Yellowstone  river.  Brown  coal,  or  lignite,  is  found  in  great  quantities  on  the  banks  of 
the  Missouri  and  Yellowstone,  valuable  as  common  fuel,  but  of  no  great  value  for  manulac- 
turing  purposes.    It  has  also  been  found  on  the  headwaters  of  the  Teton  and  Marias." 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  493 

The  Yi'llowstoiic  li;is  not  been  sufliciontly  explored  to  deteiTnino  its  capaltili- 
tios  lor  uaviijation ;  but  those  best  (lualilicd  to  judo'o  think  tliat,  with  suitable 
boats,  it  may  be  navigable  far  higher  than  boats  have  yet  reached.  Indian  hos- 
tilities and  want  of  j)opulation  have  prevented  a  more  thorough  exploration. 
The  rates  t)f  freight  charged  on  the  steamers  from  St.  Louis  to  Fort  Benton  are 
so  high  that  if  a  boat  makes  one  trip  it  sometimes  pays  all  expenses  and  returns 
the  capital  invested  in  the  boat  itself.  Competition  will  probably  reduce  these 
charges,  unless  their  trade  should  be  closed  altogether  by  the  Indians. 

The  ]>ortion  of  Montana  on  the  western  slope  forms  a  basin  about  250  miles 
long  and  75  miles  wide.*  It  is  drained  by  the  Missoula,  llellgate,  lilackfoot, 
and  Flat  Head  rivers,  which  uniting,  fonii  Clark's  Fork  of  the  Columbia  river. 
The  extreme  northern  })art  is  drained  V)y  Tobacco  river,  which  empties  into  Lake 
Bratham,  in  Idaho  Territory.  Flat  Head  is  the  only  lake  of  any  considerable 
size  in  Montana.  It  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  clear  water  about  35  miles  long  and  15 
broad,  surrounded  by  a  fine  farming  and  grazing  country.  This  basin  contains 
the  best  tindier,  and  probably  as  good  grazing  and  fanning  lands  as  are  in  the 
Tcrritoiy.  The  valley  of  the  Madison  and  Gallatin  only  are  equal  to  it  in  the 
latter  respect.  The  warm  moist  winds  from  the  Pacific  induce  a  more  vigorous 
deveh'ipment  of  vegetable  life  than  in  other  parts  of  the  Territory,  where  the  high 
wall  of  the  Rocky  mountains  prevents  these  winds  from  exercising  their  influence. 
In  this  mild  and  temperate  climate  the  missionaries  established  missions  for  the 
religious  advancement  of  the  Indians.  The  sites  of  several  of  their  missions  still 
remain,  and  are  admirably  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  fertile  country. 

From  Flat  Head  lake  south,  towards  the  mission  of  Pen  d'Oreille,  along  the 
foot  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  the  country  is  well  supplied  with  timber,  water 
and  grass,  and  is  an  excellent  agricultural  district.  South  of  the  mission  is  the 
Jocko  valley,  containing  the  Pen  d'Oreille  Indian  resen'ation.  This  is  a  small 
rich  agricultural  valley,  wliich,  if  properly  cultivated,  would  be  very  productive. 

Hell  Gate  valley  is  southeast  from  the  reservation.  It  is  about  25  miles  long, 
and  six  or  seven  broad,  possessing  excellent  agricultural  resources.  Still  south 
is  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  about  60  miles  long  and  eight  wide.  In  this  is  Owen's 
trading  post,  called  Fort  Owen,  around  which  is  a  flourishing  settlement. 

The  Hell  Gate  and  Bitter  Root  at  their  junction  form  the  Missotda,  which 
retains  that  name  until  it  forms  a  junction  with  the  Flat  Head  forming  Clark's 
Fork  of  the  Columbia.  Hell  Gate  and  Bitter  Root  valleys  contain  a  number  of 
settlers,  and  in  time  will  contain  a  large  agricultural  population.  At  this  point 
the  Bitter  Root  mountains  present  an  almost  impassable  barrier,  wath  but  few 
passes,  and  can  only  be  traversed  in  the  wannest  part  of  the  year;  at  other 
seasons  they  are  completely  blockaded  by  the  snow. 

*The  surveyor  general  says:  "The  soil  of  the  valleys  and  table  lands  is  of  good  quality, 
and  it  is  believed  that  fully  one-third  of  the  Territory  is  susceptible  of  profitable  cultiva- 
tion. The  more  important  valleys  requinug  immediate  survey  are  the  Bitter  Root,  Doer 
Lodge,  Hell  Gate,  Ronde,  Big  Ilole,  Beaver  Hi-ad,  Stinking  Water,  Jefferson,  Madison, 
Gallatin,  Boulder,  Prickly  Pear,  (including  the  town  of  Helena,)  and  the  Missouri  from  the 
Three  Forks  to  Canon  Ferry,  east  of  Helena.  Ihe  arabl<^  lands  in  these  valleys  amount, 
by  careful  estimate,  to  *J,OUU  square  miles,  and  contracts  for  their  surveys  will  be  let  as  soon 
as  possible.  A  ready  home  market  is  found  for  the  product  of  the  ranches  and  dairies,  and 
the  supply  of  the  different  kinds  of  grain  raised  is  no  doubt  sufficient  for  the  wants  of  the 
population  until  another  crop  is  produced.  The  yield  of  potatoes  has  been  so  great  during 
the  past  season  that  it  is  believed  that  fully  1,000,000  bushels  could  be  exported,  and  still 
have  enough  for  home  consumption.  The  wheat  raised  in  Gallatin  valley  is  closely  estimated 
at  8,000  acres,  and  the  other  small  grains,  such  as  oats,  barley,  rye,  «fcc.,  are  placed  at  0,000 
acres.  The  yield  will  be  at  least  30  bushels  to  the  acre,  giving  us,  as  a  low  estimate  ot  all 
the  grain  crop  in  that  valley  for  this  year,  at  420,000  bushels.  The  list  of  the  territorial 
auditor  shows  165,140  acres  of  land  under  cultivation  in  the  Territory,  and  the  total  valuation 
of  the  property  assessed  is  $5,703,118.  The  flouring  mills  are  particularly  mentioned.  The 
grazing  lands  are  among  the  finest  in  the  world,  their  uutricious  grasses  serving  to  keep 
cattle  and  stock  ia  good  condition  during  the  entire  winter.  The  number  of  cattle  grazing 
on  these  lands  is  estimated  at  40  000." 


494  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

Bif^  Blackfoot  comes  into  Hell  Gate  river  in  the  caiion  of  that  name,  and  for 
15  miles  nms  through  another  canon.  Above,  it  passes  through  a  large  and 
beautiful  valley  similar  to  that  of  Hell  Gate.  On  the  head  of  this  river  are  some 
good  placer  mines.  Some  say  the  canon  received  this  name  of ''Hell  Gate" 
from  the  gloomy  character  of  its  scenery ;  others,  that  it  was  so  named  fi'om  the 
fact  that  the  Indians,  when  on  the  war  path,  intent  on  deeds  of  blood  and  rapine, 
always  issued  out  from  it.     Either  cause  would  be  sufficient. 

Flint  Ceeek. — Forty  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Blackfoot,  fi-om  the 
south,  comes  in  Flint  creek  through  a  fine  large  valley  with  plenty  of  grass, 
water  and  timber.  Recently  near  the  head  of  this  stream  rich  silver  mines  have 
been  found,  and  a  town  of  400  or  500  inhabitants  has  sprang  up  in  a  few  weeks. 
On  one  of  the  branches  of  Flint  some  good  placer  mines  have  been  discovered 
which  paid  well  this  summer.  Twenty  miles  above  this  creek  the  Little  Black- 
foot comes  in  from  the  northeast.  For  some  distance  al)ove  its  mouth  is  a  good 
grazing  country,  not  suitable  for  agricultural  purposes,  but  well  timbered.  The 
ravines  and  gulches  at  the  head  of  this  stream  contain  some  good  placer  mines, 
and  several  mining  towns  have  sprung  up,  such  as  Blacklbot  City  and  Car- 
pentiei-'s  Bar.  Quartz  veins  containing  gold  have  been  found  in  this  vicinity, 
but  they  have  not  been  sufficiently  worked  to  prove  their  value. 

Deer  Lodge  Valley. — To  the  southward  lies  the  Deer  Lodge  valley,  one  of 
the  most  picturesque  and  beautiful,  as  well  as  one  of  the  richest  mineral  and  agricul- 
tural districts  in  Montana.  It  is  about  35  miles  long  and  10  broad,  surrounded 
by  low  rolling  hills,  which  afford  excellent  pasturage.  This  favored  region,  called 
by  the  Indians  Ttsookeencame,  or,  translated,  'Hhe  Deer's  Lodge,"  takes  its  name 
from  a  singular  mound  in  the  upper  end  of  the  valley  composed  of  silicious  and 
ferruginous  depositions,  formed  by  a  thermal  spring. 

This  mound  is  a  truncated  cone  30  feet  in  height,  100  feet  in  diameter  at  the 
base  and  30  feet  at  the  summit.  Brightly  colored  with  white  and  reddish-brown 
spots,  it  forms  a  notable  landmark.  In  the  Avinter,  when  the  steam  rises  like 
smoke  from  a  spring  at  the  top,  it  bears  a  strikino-  resemblance  to  a  large  Indian 
lodge.  This  spring  is  three  feet  in  diameter  ancT  of  a  considerable  depth.  The 
water,  which  does  not  overflow  at  present,  is  nearly  at  the  boiling  point,  while 
at  the  base  of  the  mound  several  springs  exist  the  temperature  of  which  varies 
from  near  boiling  point  to  icy  coldness.  A  marsh  elevated  a  few  feet  above  the 
surrounding  plains  is  fortned  by  the  springs  at  the  base  of  the  mound.  Very  few 
such  formations,  caused  by  thermal  springs,  are  found  in  the  Pacific  Territories. 
Hence  it  must  be  different  from  the  ordinary  methods  of  deposition.  From  the 
fact  that  the  spring  in  the  centre  of  the  cone  does  not  overflow,  it  is  evident  that 
in  f(jrmer  times  it  must  have  been  more  active  than  at  present,  and  that  the  forces 
that  once  gave  it  activity  are  failing ;  also,  that  unless  there  is  a  recurrence  of 
its  ancient  eruptive  power  the  mound  will  never  rise  any  higher.  Probably  it  is 
lower  than  formerly.  Ordinary  thennal  springs  throw  quite  a  volume  of  water, 
which,  gradually  cooling,  continues  to  deposit  its  sediment  for  a  considerable 
distance,  depositions  not  being  materially  greater  at  the  mouth  of  the  springs 
than  100  or  200  yards  distant. 

Quite  a  large  number  of  farms  are  under  enclosure  in  this  valley.  Stock 
raising  also  employs  some  of  the  inhabitants.  Until  recently  there  was  but  little 
mining  in  this  vicinity.  Last  spring  and  summer  some  very  good  placer  mines 
were  discovered  in  the  hills  on  the  oast  side  of  the  valley.  On  Silver  Bar,  a 
stn'am  falling  into  the  head  of  the  valley,  placer  and  quartz  mines  containing 
gold,  silver  and  copper,  especially  the  latter  metal,  have  been  worked  for  over 
two  years,  resulting  in  the  mining  towns  of  Silver  I3ar  and  Butte  Citv. 

TowN^  OF  CoTTOXWOOD. — Coltonwood,  the  county-seat  of  Deer  Lodge  county, 
is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  Cottonwood  creek,  near  its  junction  with  Deer 
Lodge  creek.  It  has  a  good  location  for  a  toA\Ti.  The  streets  are  wide  and  well 
laid  out.     The  advantage  of  wide  streets  m  mining  towns  is  so  evident,  in  view 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  495 

of  the  dangers  from  fire,  that  it  is  sin£:nlar  so  few  now  towns  are  laid  out  in  this 
manner.  The  houses  are  usually  huilt  of  wood.  Fire  engines  are  the  accom- 
]taniment  of  a  more  advaneed  progress.  When  a  fire  onec  gets  fully  under  way 
in  these  mining  towns  it  seldom  stops  tnilil  it  meets  an  open  space. 

Cottonwood  is  a  pleasant  little  town,  with  that  dreamy  appearance  of  repose 
indicative  of  an  agricultural  district.  Timber  is  scarce  in  the  valley,  but  is 
abundant  in  the  adjacent  hills  and  mountains.  Pine  and  fir  constitute  the  sole 
supply. 

Tlie  scenery  here  is  wonderfully  picturesque.  Spm's  and  broken  chains  of 
mountains,  the  lofty  summits  regularly  dispersed,  rise  above  and  beyond  one 
another,  giving  an  idea  of  interminalile  distance.  The  rarity  of  the  atmosphere 
consequent  on  the  altitude  causes  the  rays  of  light  to  be  less  strongly'  refracted 
than  when  the  atmosphere  is  denser,  giving  a  strange  and  unnatural  reflection 
to  every  object.  The  light  is  peculiar  in  many  respects.  "While  it  does  not 
apparently  impair  vision,  it  seems  to  l)lend  in  all  colors  a  portion  of  black.  Thus, 
as  the  eye  follows  one  mountain  peak  after  another,  the  color  becomes  darker 
and  darker,  till  the  most  distant  are  almost  entirely  black.  The  color  of  the 
snow,  varied  by  increasing  di;^tance,  goes  through  the  same  changes,  and  at  last 
appears  of  a  dark  gray.  There  are  none  of  those  wondrous  changes  of  tints  and 
shadows  which  are  so  charming  in  the  lower  latitudes  as  Mount  Hood,  vrhobe 
snows  from  a  hundred  ditlercnt  points  of  observation  never  appear  twice  of  the 
same  color.  Here  every  tint  is  sombre  and  rigid,  and  notwithstanding  the  beauty 
of  the  scenery  the  mind  is  chilled  with  a  feeling  of  awe.  This  is  heightened  by 
the  appearance  of  the  low  hills,  which  are  covered  with  grass,  and  have  the  aspect 
of  fields  once  cultivate<:l,  but  now  permitted  to  return  to  a  state  of  nature. 

In  the  upper  part  of  the  valley,  near  the  hot  springs,  the  snow  seldom  lies  on 
the  ground,  and  there  is  an  abundance  of  good  pasturage  the  year  round. 

A  curious  and  interesting  fact  connected  with  this  locality  is  worthy  of  note. 
From  the  head  of  this  valley  into  Big  Hole,  or  the  valley  of  Divide  creek,  a 
branch  of  Big  Hole,  is  the  lowest  pass  through  the  Rocky  mountains.  In  fact, 
it  is  simply  a  continuation  of  one  valley  into  another.  At  Butte  City  water  is 
brought  from  the  head  of  Boulder  creek,  which  is  a  tributary  of  the  Missouri, 
through  a  low  pass  into  Silver  Bar,  a  l)ranch  of  Deer  Lodge  creek,  thus  taking 
the  water  from  the  Atlantic  and  giving  it  to  the  Pacific. 

The  streams  and  small  lakes  which  al)ound  in  the  hills  around  this  valley  are 
well  supplied  with  trout.  All  the  streams  on  the  Pacific  slope  contain  trout ;  but 
except  in  the  Yellowstone  and  its  tributaries  the}^  are  very  scarce  on  the  Atlantic 
slope. 

A  short  distance  below  Deer  Lodge,  a  small  creek  empties  into  Hell  Gate 
river  from  the  west,  called  Gold  creek.  It  is  remarkable  as  the  first  place  where 
gold  was  discovered  in  Montana.  The  discovery  was  made  on  the  banks  of  a 
stream  whose  waters  finally  flow  into  the  Pacific  ocean. 

During  the  present  year  the  mines  on  the  western  slope  have  been  much  more 
productive  than  fonnerly,  while  on  the  eastern  slope  the  production  this  year 
will  be  less  than  that  of  last  year. 


496  KESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND   TERRITORIES 

SECTION    II. 

MINES  AND  SYSTEMS  OF  MINING. 

Gold  was  discovered  in  Montanca  by  a  Frencli  Lalf-breed,  named  Francois  Finlay, 
about  the  year  1852,  on  Gold  creek,  a  branch  of  the  Hell  Gate  river.  He  was 
merely  prospecting,  and  did  not  find  the  gold  in  sufficient  quantities  to  induce 
him  to  work  the  mines.* 

*  Mr.  Albert  D.  Richardson  quotes  from  a  book  published  in  Cincinnati  50  years  ago,  as 
follows : 

"These  mountains  are  supposed  to  contain  minerals,  precious  stones,  and  gold  and  silver 
ore.  It  is  but  late  that  they  have  taken  the  name  Rocky  mountains  ;  by  all  old  travellers 
they  are  called  the  Shining  mountains,  from  an  infinite  number  of  crystal  stones  of  an 
amazing  size  with  which  they  are  covered,  and  which,  when  the  sun  shines  full  upon  them, 
sparkle  so  as  to  be  seen  at  a  great  distance.  The  same  early  travellers  gave  it  as  their  opinion 
that  in  future  these  mountains  would  be  found  to  contain  more  riches  than  those  of  Indostan 
and  Malabar,  or  the  golden  coast  of  Guinea,  or  the  mines  of  Peru." 

Mr.  Richardson  remarks : 

"These  surmises  excited  little  notice,  for  the  early  travellers  believed  every  mountain  an 
El  Dorado,  and  every  stream  a  Pactolus.  The  first  statement  which  appeared  worthy  of 
serious  attention  was  made  by  Colonel  William  Gilpin  of  the  United  States  army.  This 
gentleman,  a  zealous  student  of  the  natural  scieuces,  crossed  the  continent  with  a  party  of 
Oregon  explorers,  and  again  with  his  command  during  the  Mexican  war. 

"In  1849,  in  an  address  at  Independence,  Missouri,  as  the  result  of  all  his  obseiTations, 
he  asserted  the  abundant  existence  of  gold,  silver,  and  precious  stones  throughout  the  Rocky 
mountains."     (Beyond  the  Mississippi,  pp.  ]3o-6.) 

Professor  A.  K.  Eaton,  in  his  report  to  Governor  Green  Clay  Smith,  gives  the  following 
general  summary  of  the  mineral  resources  of  Montana  : 

"  Of  the  common  minerals  of  value  in  the  arts  and  manufactures,  there  seems  to  be  every 
indication  of  abundance,  although  little  has  been  done  towards  the  development  of  them ; 
fire  clay,  gypsum  and  coal  are  indicated  strongly  in  the  tertiary  deposits  that  underlie 
the  table-lands  of  the  valleys  and  elsewhere ;  but  they  lie  mostly  undisturbed  and  undis- 
covered, except  where  some  wandering  prospector  has  accidentally  come  upon  their  out- 
crop. The  pursuit  of  the  precious  metals  has  made  the  people  oblivious  to  all  minor  con- 
siderations ;  but  if  we  consider,  for  a  moment,  the  immense  advantage  that  would  accrue 
to  the  Territory  by  the  opening  of  reliable  coal  beds,  it  would  be  an  incentive  to  the  greatest 
effort;  fuel  for  our  furnaces  and  manufactures,  to  say  nothing  of  our  ordinary  needs,  will 
soon  become  scarce  and  dear.  I  believe  that  a  small  appropriation  of  money  for  the  purpose 
would  insure  the  discovery  and  development  of  coal  deposits  in  a  very  short  time. 

"Discoveries  of  new  minerals  and  ores  are  occurring  frequently  in  the  Territory.  Cinna- 
bar, which  is  of  the  first  importance  in  a  gold  and  silver-producing  region,  has  been  found, 
though  not  in  place.  Specimens  of  water-worn  fragments  of  this  mineral,  found  in  the  gulch 
workings  of  an  almost  unoccupied  district  of  the  Territory,  were  recently  brought  to  me, 
which  proved  to  be  of  the  first  quality.  This  is  especially  gratifying,  since  deposits  of  ores 
resembling  cinnabar  have  been  frequently  found,  and  much  useless  labor  expended  in  their 
development.  I  have  also  recently,  and  for  the  first  time,  examined  true  tin  ore  found  within 
our  territorial  limits.     This  also  was  from  gulch  working. 

"  Lead  ores  occur  in  profusion,  both  as  galenas  and  as  carbonate  of  lead,  in  nearly  all 
districts  of  the  Territory.  These  will  not  be  worked  at  present,  except  when  accompanied 
by  silver.  All  the  galenas  are  so  accompanied,  and  generally  in  paying  quantities  of  the 
latter  metal. 

"  Copper  lodes  are  abundant,  showing  at  the  surface  ores  ranging  from  15  to  60  per  cent, 
of  metallic  copper.  These  when  located  near  the  Missouri  river  may  be  immediately  made 
profitable.  Copper  ores  in  the  eastern  market  probably  command  to-day  about  §5  for  every 
per  cent,  of  copper  contained  ;  15  per  cent,  ore  would  be  worth  $75  per  ton,  and  (30  per  cent, 
ore  $300.  Thus,  long  before  we  shall  be  extensively  engaged  in  smelting  these  ores,  our 
copper  lodes  may  prove  largely  remunerative. 

"The  silver  lodes  of  the  Territory  which  at  present  attract  much  attention,  are,  in  part, 
silver-bearing  galenas.  These  range  by  practicable  working  from  $'20  to  $300  per  ton.  The 
present  cost  of  labor  and  fuel  precludes  the  working  of  the  poorer  of  these  ores,  but  eventu- 
ally all  will  bo  worked  profitably.  The  cost  of  smelting  this  class  of  ores  cannot  at  present 
be  put  lower  than  $35  per  ton,'  and  in  some  localities  would  exceed  this  estimate;  still 
there  is  an  abundance  of  argentiferous  galena  that  can  be  worked  with  great  profit  at  the 
present  prices  of  material  and  labor.  Another  class  of  silver  lodes  is  found  in  the  country 
which  caiTy  no  lead  or  other  base  metal  to  interfere  with  the  successful  working  of  the  ores 
by  amalgamation.  It  is  from  this  class  of  ores  probably  that  the  first  remunerative  results 
will  be  obtained,  owing  to  the  simplicity  of  the  machinery  required.     Mills  are  now  being 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  497 

In  1S56  otlior  iirospcctors  foiiinl  o-old  at  the  same  mines,  l)nt  did  not  work 
tliem.  In  the  fall  of  1860  tlie  Brothers  Stuart  &  {!o.  prospected  near  the  same 
])hieo,  and  in  18G1  and  18G2  connnenced  workini^  in  earnest  with  slnices.  This 
was  the  firet  regiUar  placer  mining  in  the  Territory.    In  1861  they  wrote  to  some 

erected  tor  workiuf^  ores  of  this  rliarac.to.r.  The.  j^reut  ubundanv'o  of  veins  of  this  nature  of 
the  most  proinisiii<T  !ii>peartiiice  justifies  tiie  expectatiou  that  a  sliort  time  will  sliow  large 
returns  of  huliion  from  this  source. 

"The  placer  mines  of  tho  Territory  which  have  thus  far  been  successfully  worked,  are 
thosi'  only  which  from  their  favorable  location  with  reference  to  water,  &c. ,  could  be  easily 
worked  without  the  previous  expenditure  of  capital  by  sirifrle  workmen  or  by  small  parties. 
Gulches  already  worked  out  by  this 'Wasteful  n)ethod  will  be  reworked  perhaps  as  remune- 
ratively as  at  tirst.  by  the  aid  of  capital.  l)itches  for  the  further  supply  of  water,  bed-rock 
flumes,  aud  hydraulic  apparatus  are  essential  to  the  successful  workiug'  of  the  majority  of  our 
fTulch  deposits,  and  wlien  capital  flows  in  that  direction,  many  thousand  acres  cau  be  worked 
most  prolitably,  wliiclt.  to-day,  individual  etl'ort  caimot  touch  successfully. 

"That  which  lias  proven  one  of  the  most  serious  obstacles  to  successful  mining  in  the 
Territory  has  been  the  profusion  of  gold-bearing  veins,  showing  temptingly  at  the  surface.' 
Nature  is  never  so  lavish  as  she  in  this  ease  appears,  and  in  the  light  of  general  mining 
experience,  wo  have  no  right  to  expect  more  t!«an  a  small  percentage  of  true,  strong  aud 
uniformly  rich  veins  from  this  great  surface  display.  Thus  it  is  that  several  failures  may 
precede  one  great  success  in  the  development  of  mines.  There  can  be  no  doubt  in  the  mind 
of  any  one,  makmg  the  country  a  careful  study,  of  thi-  boundless  wealth  that  is  hidden  in  its 
bosom.     Iudefatigal)le  energy  and  untiring  perseverance  will  alone  reveal  its  full  magnitude. 

"A  large  number  of  mills  for  the  working  of  gold  ores  have  been  erected  in  thi;  Territory, 
and  few  of  them  with  more  than  partial  success.  The  reason  is  obvious,  and  in  their  partial 
failure,  mining  history  only  reflects  itself.  Some  of  them  are  of  that  xrntried  character  of 
which  it  may  be  said  that  whilst  they  show  in  construction  some  new  features  and  some 
good  ones,  unfortunately  the  new  things  are  not  good,  and  the  good  points  are  7iot  new. 
Novel  inventions,  even  if  capable  of  success  elsewhere,  are  inevitably  destined  to  failure  in  a 
new  country.  Tlie  principal  ditiiculty,  however,  has  been  the  imperfect  management  of  these 
diflFerent  enterprises,  arising  sometimes  from  the  incapacity  of  agents,  but  more  frequently 
from  the  impossibility  of  anticipating  in  a  country  new  aud  undeveloped  the  exact  require- 
ments of  the  case.  One  great  error  has  been  made  by  almost  all.  It  has  arisen  from  the 
over-sanguine  belief  that  quartz  could  be  mined  in  quantity  without  preliminary  expense  in 
development.  The  mills  are  erected,  the  money  and  patience  of  tho  proprietors  exhausted, 
and  with  untold  wealth  the  machinery  is  left  to  rust  and  rot  for  want  of  ore.  To-day  nearly 
every  mill  in  the  Territoiy  could  be  worked  most  profitably  by  the  expenditure  of  a  few 
thousand  dollars  in  the  thorough  opening  of  the  mines  belonging  to  them.  Excuse  me,  sir, 
for  referring  to  the  embarrassments  under  which  we  are  laboring.  It  is  only  by  looking  our 
errors  in  the  face  that  we  can  find  the  way  to  success.  It  is  the  fourth  year  of  my  residence 
in  tho  Territory,  and  I  can  assure  you  that  my  confidence  in  its  great  mineral  wealth  is 
stronger  than  ever,  and  notwithstanding  the  discouragements  that  we  have  been  compelled 
to  meet,  we  may  .^ay  with  pride  that  no  new  Territory  luis  made  such  rapid  advances  iu  so 
short  a  time  as  this.  The  working  of  many  thousands  of  tons  of  gold  ore  in  different  parts 
of  the  Territory,  varying  from  .§15  to  $75  per  ton  by  active  working,  is  a  sufficient  indication 
of  the  probable  average  of  our  gold-bearing  rock.  The  lowest  of  these  limits  pays  a  profit 
even  at  the  present  price  of  labor  in  a  mill  of  any  considerable  capacity.  The  expense  of 
the  importation  of  machinery  has  diminished  to  almost  half  since  the  first  mills  were  erected 
here.  The  Union  Pacific  railroad  is  every  day  bringing  us  near  to  the  sources  from  which 
we  draw  machin(;ry  and  capital.  Foundries  aud  machine  shops  are  springing  up  in  our 
midst,  and  we  are  in  all  directions  fast  becoming  self-sustaining.  With  agricultural  resources 
unexcelled,  with  a  climate  most  inviting,  with  mineral  wealth  inexhaustible,  we  may,  with 
reason,  feel  assured  that  Montana  will  take  the  highest  rank  among  the  gold  and  silver- 
producing  States." 

The  suiA'Cyor  general  in  his  report  for  18(i7,  says: 

"When  provisions  aud  labor  become  cheaper,  many  gTilchcs  will  be  worked  which  arc  at 
present  untouched.  Large  amounts  of  money  have  been  expended  this  season  in  the  con- 
struction of  ditches,  and  in  preparations  for  gulch  mining  next  year.  The  result  of  these 
preparations  will  be  that,  during  \SiJrf,  luUy  50  per  cent,  more  gold  will  be  taken  out  than 
there  has  been  this  season.  Tho  production  of  gold  for  this  season  has  been  estimated  at 
$'20,000,(100,  and  still  not  a  tenth  part  of  the  Territory  has  yet  been  prospected. 

"Iron  has  been  found  on  Jackass  creek. 

"Copper  abounds  principally  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Muscle.shell  river.  The  widtli  of  the 
veins  is  from  three  to  four  feet.  Placer  copper  has  been  found  on  Beaver  creek,  near  Jefler- 
8on  City,  which  shows  some  splendid  specimens. 

"The  leads  of  Montana  are  generally  better  defined  than  in  any  other  mining  country  in 
the  world,  and  the  singmlar  freaks  sometimes  taken  by  them  in  other  regions  are  less  Irequent 
here." 

32 


498  BESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

of  their  friends  in  Colorado  in  reference  to  tlieir  prospects  a,nd  hopes,  and  induced 
quite  a  number  of  adventurers  to  come  to  Montana  in  the  spring  of  1862. 

The  mines  on  Gokl  creek  not  promising  as  rich  as  was  expected,  the  Stuai-ts 
and  others  began  to  prospect  the  country  extensively,  and  that  summer  found 
some  mines  on  a  gulch  at  the  head  of  the  Big  Hole,  which,  however,  were  not 
very  productive.  Earl}^  in  the  same  summer  the  mines  at  Bannock  on  Grasshopper 
creek  were  discovered.  These  were  so  rich  and  extensive  that  the  other  mines 
Avere  abandoned,  and  by  the  fall  of  1862  nearly  all  the  miners  in  the  Territory, 
numbering  about  1,000,  had  congregated  at  this  place. 

Bannock  Placeks. — The  Placer  mines  of  Bannock  are  found  on  the  banks 
and  in  the  bed  of  Grasshopper  creek,  and  extend  from  the  town  down  the  creek 
for  a  distance  of  seven  or  eight  miles.  They  paid  well  at  first ;  as  the  creek 
had  an  abundance  of  water,  they  could  be  worked  by  miners  with  great  facility. 

The  banks  appear  to  be  nearly  exhausted  now;  but  the  bed  of  the  creek,  if 
flumed  and  worked  in  a  proper  manner,  would  still  yield  largely.  A  few  miles 
south  from  Bannock,  near  Horn  Prairie,  are  extensive  flats  and  gulclies,  which 
prospect  fairly.  Wlien  supplied  with  water,  which  will  be  brought  in  this  fall, 
they  will  give  employment  to  a  large  number  of  miners. 

There  are  200  or  300  miners  in  this  vicinity,  working  at  various  points  in  the 
creek  and  its  banks,  probably  making  something  over  wages,  viz :  $5  a  day  in 
gold. 

In  working  in  the  bed  of  the  creek  there  does  not  seem  to  be  any  concert  of 
action,  so  as  to  enable  one  individual  or  company  to  take  advantage  of  the 
works  of  another.  Each  operation  is  canied  on  by  itself.  After  one  company 
has  put  a  dam  in  the  creek,  and  turned  the  water  into  a  flume,  the  next  company 
below  can  take  the  water  at  the  end  of  the  flume  much  more  easily  than  the  first 
obtained  it.  When  one  claim  is  drained  so  as  to  be  workable,  the  next  below 
will  be  drier  and  more  easily  worked  than  if  nothing  had  been  done  above. 

Bannock  Quaetz. — The  first  quartz  veins  worked  in  .the  Tenitory  were  in 
Bannock. 

Grasshopper  creek  heads  at  the  foot  of  a  large  smooth  mountain,  called  Bald 
mountain,  which  abounds  in  veins  containing  gold,  silver,  and  copper.  The  creek 
then  nuis  eastwardly  through  a  basin,  when  its  branches,  concentrating,  pass  out 
through  a  limestone  canon.  At  the  head  of  this  canon  are  quartz  veins  containing 
free  gold,  These  veins  are  the  soiu-ce  from  which  the  placer  mines  on  the  creek  • 
were  supplied.  No  gold  is  found  above  the  veins.  The  croppings  being  promi- 
nent and  conspicuous,  were  soon  discovered  and  quartz  claims  located. 

In  the  winter  of  1862-63,  two  men,  named  Allen  and  Arnold,  put  up  the  first 
quartz  mill.  It  was  entirely  of  home  manufacture ;  the  irons  were  obtained 
from  old  wagons  and  fashioned  in  a  blacksmith's  shop ;  all  the  lumber  used, 
except  })ine,  fir,  and  cottonwood,  came  from  the  same  source.  The  mill  had  six 
stamps  of  400  pounds  each,  and  was  driven  by  water.  The  men  who  built  it 
ran  it.  In  a  financial  point  of  view  it  was  a  success.  The  ores  were  from  the 
discovery  claim  of  the  Dakota,  and  No.  6  of  the  same  lode. 

A  number  of  mines  in  this  vicinity  were  sold  to  parties  in  the  ea,storn  States, 
"vyho  have  expended  considerable  sums  of  money  and  erected  several  large  and 
costly  mills. 

In  the  fall  of  1864  the  first  steam  stamp  mills  commenced  working  at  Ban- 
nock. They  were  (nily  moderately  successful  in  extracting  the  gold.  The  men 
who  had  charge  were  i)ractically  unacquainted  with  the  business,  and  generally, 
as  soon  as  they  had  Icanicd  to  manage  with  more  skill,  they  were  superseded  by 
others  without  experience  and  the  same  process  repeated. 

One  furnace  was  erected  which  only  ran  a  short  time.  It  is  now  being  rebuilt. 
The  probability  is  it  will  only  continue  in  operation  as  long  as  the  ores  are  sus- 
ceptible of  reduction  more  cheaply  by  smelting  than  by  roasting  and  amalga- 
matinc. 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  499 

The  mines  of  Bnnnork  liavo  pvoduccd  a  large  uniount  of  ore.     With  proper 
inanairenient  tlioy  woiiM  eomiime  to  pay  well.     A  captain  ignorant  of  liis  l)iisi 
ncss,  with  a  erew  of  landsmen,  can  manage  a  ship  as  well  as  a  superintendent 
unacquainted  with  mining  can  manage  a  mine  or  mill  with  men  unaccustomed  to 
either. 

Sulplmret  ores  have  been  reached  in  some  of  the  mines,  which  the  mills  will 
not  be  able  to  reduce  without  aiUlitional  and  proper  machinery. 

TuE  D.VKoTA. — The  Dakota  was  the  lirst  lode  discoven^d  and  has  been  worked 
most  extensively,  }irol)ably  more  than  all  other  veins  in  the  district.  It  is  a 
large,  irregular  vein,  distinctly  traced  on  the  surface  for  over  a  mile  in  length, 
and  opened  at 'six  diti'erent  points  to  a  depth  of  100  feet,  and  in  one  place  to  the 
depth  of  3:20  feet.  There  is  no  dt)ubt  of  its  depth  and  permanency.  It  varies 
in  thickness  from  three  to  eight  feet ;  dips  to  the  northeast ;  strike,  northwest 
and  southeast ;  the  general  dij)  an<l  strike  of  the  veins  in  this  locality.  It  car- 
ries the  oxidized  ores  to  a  great  dejjth,  containing  free  gold,  easy  of  extraction. 

The  Dakota  was  located  under  the  old  law,  which  only  allowed  100  feet  to 
a  claim.  Nearly  every  claim  was  held  separately,  which  materially  interfered 
with  the  proper  opening  and  working  of  the  mines.  One  tunnel  has  been  driven 
in  800  feet  in  a  thorough  and  workmanlike  manner.  Some  of  the  shafts  arc 
well  constnictcd,  but  much  of  the  work  is  poorly  done  and  on  a  l)ad  system, 
rendered  necessary  in  part  by  the  small  size  of  the  claims.  Each  cou'ipany 
sbt)uld  own  at  least  1,000  feet,  which  would  justify  opening  in  a  proper  mmmer. 

The  country  rock  enclosing  the  lodes  is  limestone,  of  a  late  geological  epoch, 
and  rests  nnconfonnably  upon  syenites.  No  veins  have  been  found  in  the  sye- 
nites, and  probably  if  they  pass  from  the  limestone  into  the  s\^enites  they  will  be 
found  to  be  impoverished. 

Argknta. — Argenta  mining  district  lies  north  from  Bannock  on  the  north 
bank  of  the  Rattlesnake  creek.  This  district,  although  not  large,  contains  a 
gi'eat  number  of  veins.  In  no  part  of  Montana  yet  explored  have  as  many 
veins  been  fomid  in  so  small  a  compass.  On  the  creek  a  few  small  spots  have 
been  worked  for  placer  gold. 

The  quartz  veins  are  in  limestone  and  greatly  resemble  those  at  Bannock, 
only  they  contain  more  lead  and  iron. 

The  hill  on  the  north  side  of  the  creek  and  opposite  the  town  is  a  perfet  net- 
work of  veins,  which  are  very  irregular,  and  many  of  them  when  followed  down 
are  found  broken  and  the  continuation  lost. 

A  shaft  sunk  on  this  hill  is  almost  sure  to  strike  a  blind  ledge  or  a  portion  of 
some  ledge  that  crops  to  the  surface  in  some  other  location. 

The  proper  way  to  work  these  nrines  is  by  vertical  shafts.  A  large  amount 
of  gromid  should  be  o\vned  by  one  company.  The  great  number  of  claim-holders 
in  a  small  space,  with  the  irregular  and  uncei'tain  nature  of  the  veins,  will  cause 
many  conflicts  of  opinion,  if  nothing  more,  should  an  att(!mpt  be  made  to  work 
them  separately  under  each  location.  The  wdiole  hill  appears  to  l)e  full  of  bunches 
or  pockets  of  ore,  irregularly  dispersed.  To  extract  them  Avill  require  a  com- 
plicated system  of  mining  operations. 

Further  west  the  veins  are  larger,  better  defined,  and  not  so  numerous.  Some 
of  them  contain  much  richer  ore. 

The  Legal  Tkxdek  has  been  opened  to  a  greater  estent  than  any  other  in 
this  district.  It  is  irregular  in  size  and  rather  small,  but  the  ore  is  rich  and  con- 
tains a  large  amount  of  lead,  which  renders  it  excellent  for  smelting. 

The  Staplp:ton  is  a  good  vein  and  will  yield  a  considerable  amount  of  ore. 
It  contains  but  little  lead.     The  ore  is  well  calculated  for  amalgamation. 

The  Tuscarora  is  f^ituated  in  a  small  hill  or  knoll.  At  the  surface  it  dis- 
plays a  vast  amount  of  carbonate  and  oxide  of  lead.  The  ore  is  not  very  rich 
in  silver,  but  as  a  lead  mine  it  may  prove  valuable. 

The  smelting  works  erected  by  the  St.  Louis  and  Montana  Company,  for  a 


500  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

pioneer  enterprise,  are  well  constructed,  and  in  a  metallr.rg'ical  point  of  view 
tlieir  present  operations  are  eminently  successful.  Whether  the  financial  view 
is  as  flattering  is  imknown.     The  company  wisely  conduct  their  o\m  business. 

In  this  country  where  all  articles  are  so  dear,  and  skilled  labor  scarcely  to  he 
had,  the  cost  of  smelting'  is  very  great.  Unless  the  ore  is  very  rich  no  profit 
y»ill  accrue. 

The  ore  from  a  few  mines  in  this  district  must  be  smelted,  as  it  contains  a 
large  amount  of  lead,  but  probably  nine-tenths  of  the  ore  can  be  reduced  more 
proiitably  by  amalgamation.     Much  of  it  would  pay  well  if  worked  judiciously. 

The  limestone  appears  to  he  of  the  same  age  as  that  at  Bannckck,  but  here  it 
rests  iniconformably  on  granite.  Here  the  granite  contains  no  rich  veins,  and 
when  they  pass  from  the  limestone  into  it  they  are  much  smaller  and  generally 
barren. 

Argenta,  a  small  mining  town,  is  situated  on  the  south  bank  of  Rattlesnake 
creek.  It  is  pleasantly  located  on  a  small  tongue  of  the  Beaver  Head  valley, 
suiTounded  by  hills  except  where  it  opens  out.  Eastward  it  gives  a  splendid 
view  of  the  Beaver  Head  valley,  and  of  the  Virginia  mountains  in  the  distance. 

The  mines  are  silver-bearing  quartz  veins,  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the 
creek,  and  are  not  much  worked  at  present.  The  only  smelting  works  now  in 
operation  in  the  Territory  are  located  at  tliis  place.  On  Horse  prairie  there  are 
Some  good  placers,  but  they  are  not  available  at  present,  owing  to  a  scarcity  of 
water.  This  will  soon  be  remedied  by  a  ditch  from  the  creek,  now  in  course  of 
construction.  On  Rattlesnake  creek,  above  Argenta,  are  very  distinct  marks 
of  glacial  action.  The  polish  on  the  rocks  is  ver^^  fine,  and  the  strike  marked 
with  great  distinctness,  showing  a  movement  to  the  southeast. 

Red  Rock  creek  comes  in  from  the  south,  and  is  probably  the  ultimate  head  of 
the  ]\[issouri  river.  From  this  creek  to  Dry  creek,  in  the  Snake  River  valley, 
there  is  an  easy  pass  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  slope. 

Summit  District. — The  quartz  veins  in  this  district  were  the  undoubted 
source  of  the  gold  in  Alder  gulch.  Several  of  them  were  discovered  and  located 
soon  after  the  location  of  the  placer  mines  in  the  gulch  below. 

The  first  mill  here,  like  the  first  at  Bannock,  was  of  Montana  manufacture. 
A  wagon  supplied  tlie  iron ;  the  choice  lumber  and  the  natural  products  of  the 
district,  Avith  the  labor  of  the  builders,  furnished  all  else.  It  was"  a  financial 
success,  but  as  the  ore  was  carefully  selected  the  yield  was  higher  than  has  been 
obtained  since.  The  mill  was  propelled  by  water;  its  capacity  was  three  and 
one-half  tons  per  week. 

Since  then  many  veins  have  l)ecu  sold  in  th'.'  eastern  States  and  a  number  of 
steam  stamp  mills  erected,  a  few  of  which'  have  been  nroderately  successful. 
They  only  employ  batteiy  amalgamation,  and  pass  the  pulp  over  copper  plates, 
which  will  not  save  as  nuich  gold  as  when  iron  pans  or  arrastras  are  used. 

One  mill  has  a  great  collection  of  costly  meclianical  curiosities,  many  novel 
and  some  obsolete.  After  a  yeai^'s  experience'  the  operators  still  indulge  in  the 
antici{iation  of  gratiJ'yiug  results.  The  method  employed  in  these  mills  v/ill  not 
extract  the  gold  from  sulphuret  ore.  The  mines  contain  a  large  amoimt  of  oxi- 
dized ore,  which  will  eventually  be  exhausted,  and  the  sulphuret  ores  will  alone 
remain.  Sulphurets  constitute  the  main  reliance  for  the  future  ;  and  the  working 
of  any  mill  that  cannot  extract  the  gold  from  them  will  not  be  permanently  profit- 
able. 

The  mills  in  operation  in  this  district  crush  about  a  ton  to  the  stamp  in  24 
hours.  The  cost  of  working  in  two  mills  was  $6  50  to  $7  per  ton,  respectively, 
while  in  another  it  was  estimated  at  $3  25  per  ton  ;  these  were  stamp  mills,  in 
another,  the  cost  was  $25  per  ton.  The  cost  of  the  stamp  mills  was  from  820,000 
to  $30,000  each,  according  to  their  capacity,  which  varied  from  15  to  24  tons  per 
day.  The  cost  of  one  mill  was  $120,000,  with  a  capacity  of  about  12  tons  per 
day. 


WEST  OF  THE  KOCKY  MOUNTAINS.  501 

"WiKul  vavios  IVoin  So  to  6(3  oO  jter  cord ;  wac-os  are  from  $G  to  $9  per  day. 

Aliout  20  luiiies  have  been  located  and  opened  to  some  extent  in  tlie  Sunnuit 
district.     Among  the  most  celebrated  are  the  Kearsarg-e,  Oro,  Cash,  and  Lucas. 

Hit'  Kcarsarge  vein  is  about  two  iY'et  thick  on  an  average,  though  in  places  it 
is  six  and  a  half  feet.  Strike,  northeast  and  southwest ;  dip  4r)°  to  tlic  nortli- 
west  ;  opened  to  a  depth  of  120  feet ;  sulphuret  ore  at  the  bottom  of  the  shaft 
pays  in  a  mill  SIS  per  ton. 

Lucas  whi,  average  thickness  three  feet  ;  strike  north  and  south  ;  sliafl  140 
feet;  ore  sulphuret;  yields  $1()  jier  ton. 

On)  C(h^h  rein,  average  thickness  IVuir  feet ;  selected  ore  pays  680  per  ton  ; 
opened  100  feet  deep  ;  ore  sulphuret.  The  tirst  lot  of  a  few  tons  from  this  mine 
Avorked  $21G  to  the  ton. 

There  are  many  veins  in  this  locality  that  will  pay  well  when  judiciously  opened 
and  worked. 

Hot  Si'KINGS  District. — A  large  amount  of  money  has  been  expended  in 
opening  mines  and  building  mills  in  this  district.  The  mills  cost  froni  830,000 
to  S200,000,  as  estimated  by  men  who  have  had  good  opportunities  of  obtaining 
coiTect  information.  The  estimates  may  be  too  high,  but  it  is  cenain  the  expendi- 
tures have  been  extravagant,  compared  with  the  capacity  of  the  mills. 

There  are  three  mills  in  the  district,  two  of  which  are  running,  the  other  nearly 
compleK^l.  The  largest  has  40  stamps,  20  of  which  are  running.  Its  capacity 
is  20  tons  per  day.     The  capacity  of  the  others  is  less. 

The  mill  companies  in  many  instances  do  not  wish  their  results  made  public, 
as  it  might  atl'ect  the  price  of  their  stock.  In  some  cases,  owing  to  tlu,'  short  time 
during  \\liich  they  have  been  running,  no  accurate  estimates  of  the  yield  cas  be 
made.  Within  a  year  or  two  greater  experience  in  working  will  result  in  some- 
thing like  a  general  average  of  jirofit  to  each  mill. 

In  the  Cape  mill  ore  was  worked  from  18  different  veins,  in  amounts  aver- 
aging from  3  to  50  tons.  The  average  yield  from  all  the  veins  was  $20  per 
ton.  It  is  claimed  that  the  Posey  mine  pays  8100  per  ton,  and  has  been  opened 
to  a  depth  of  200  feet.     The  vein  is  very  irregular. 

The  George  Atkins  is  opened  50  feet  deep  ;  thickness  of  vein  one  to  throe 
feet ;  strike  northeast  and  southwest ;  dip  45°  to  the  northwest;  works  from  840 
to  850  per  ton.     The  country  rock  is  granite. 

Bevin's  gulch,  Granite  creek  and  Williams's  creek  empty  into  Alder  gulch 
from  the  southwest,  and  have  some  gold  and  silver-bearing  cpiartz  veins.  They 
prospect  well.     Being  now  worked,  their  value  will  soon  be  known. 

There  are  many  gulches  near  Virginia,  as  the  Norw'egian,  which  is  on  the 
east  side  of  the  range  and  empties  into  the  Madison,  like  JMeadow  creek  and  Flat 
Springs  creek  ;  the  California,  Brandon,  Ham's  Horn  gulches  and  Mill  creek; 
all  contain  veins  that  prospect  well  in  gold  at  the  surface,  and  many  of  them  in 
silver  and  copper.  When  opened  no  doubt  some  of  them  will  become  valuable 
mining  localities. 

Helkxa. — The  Helena  mines  were  discovered  in  September,  1864,  at  Dry 
gulch.  Soon  after,  gold  was  found  in  Last  Chance  gulch,  and  as  the  latter 
gulch  contained  water  and  prospected  richer,  it  became  the  centre  of  mining 
operations.  After  Alder  gulch,  this  is  the  richest  that  has  been  worked  in  tliis 
Territory,  and  is  yielding  largely  this  season. 

The  depth  of  these  digi,nngs  ranges  generally  from  10  to  20  feet.  In  some 
claims  it  is  over  40  k-et  from  the  surface  to  the  bed-rock.  Work  has  been  almost 
exclusively  confined  to  the  bed  of  the  gulch.  On  the  western  side  of  th(!  Prickly 
Pear  valley,  at  and  below  the  mouth  of  Dry  creek,  and  on  both  sides  of  Last 
Chance  gulch,  there  are  hundreds  of  acres  of  shallow  placers  that  will  pay  when 
water  w  introduced. 

Owing  to  a  scarcity  of  water.  Dry  gulch  has  not  been  very  extensively  worked. 
A  supply  has  just  been  brought  in  by  means  of  ditclics  from  Ten-mile  creek, 


502  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TEKRITOEIES 

and  the  prospect  is  bow  more  encouraging.  Last  Chance  gulch  is  formed  by 
the  junction  of  Grizzly  and  Oro  Fino  gulches,  about  half  a  mile  above  the  town 
of  Helena.  Grizzl}'  comes  in  from  the  south  and  Oro  Fino  from  the  north.  Both 
have  been  worked  extensively  and  profitably. 

The  covmtry  rock  near  Helena  is  limestone  and  metamorphic  slate  ;  further  up 
in  the  mountains  granite  prevails.  A  lar^-e  number  of  gold-bearing  quartz  veins 
are  found  in  it,  from  which  it  is  evident  the  gulches  below  received  their  gold. 

Nelson's  gulch,  which  heads  in  these  granite  mountains  and  runs  into  Ten- 
mile  creek,  has  been  nearly  as  rich  as  Oro  Fino  or  Grizzly  gulches.  South  from 
these  heads  are  a  number  of  gulches  running  into  Prickly  Pear,  which  have  paid 
well.  The  greatest  obstacle  that  the  miners  encounter  is  the  want  of  fall  in  the 
beds  of  the  gulches.  Tliey  are  too  flat ;  but  the  same  method  of  fluming  with 
steam  machinery  lor  removing  the  tailings  from  the  flume,  recommended  for  Alder 
gulch,  will  be  equally  as  efficacious  here. 

The  mines  around  Helena  are  supplied  with  water  by  a  number  of  ditches, 
the  actual  cost  of  none  exceeding  $100,000.  Small  ditches  usually  are  profit- 
able ;  large  ones  seldom  i)ay  the  cost  of  construction. 

The  Pake  mining  district  is  about  five  miles  from  Helena,  at  the  head  of 
Grizzly,  Oro  Fino.  and  Nelson's  gulches.  It  is  situated  in  a  nmge  of  low  roll- 
ing hills,  at  the  foot  of  a  high  range  of  mountains.  These  hills  are  elevated  to 
a  considerable  height  above  Helena,  and  are  covered  with  pines  and  fir.  Water 
is  abundant  and  roads  are  of  easy  construction. 

The  mineral  range  is  in  granite,  and  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  wide  and 
five  or  six  miles  long.  The  general  strike  of  the  veins  is  east-southeast  and 
west-northwest,  with  a  dip  to  the  northward.  The  average  thickness  of  the  prin- 
cipal veins  is  three  to  four  feet.  On  the  nortlieast  this  district  is  bounded  by  a 
range  of  limestone  ;  the  greater  number  of  veins  is  found  in  the  granite  near  its 
junction  Avith  the  limestone. 

The  greatest  depth  yet  attained  is  250  feet,  following  the  dip  of  the  vein.  At 
that  depth  the  ores  are  still  oxidized.  Sulphuret  ores  will  soon  be  reached.  lA 
some  of  the  veins  sulphurets  are  found  near  the  surface.     This  is  not  usual. 

A  number  of  mills  have  been  erected  in  this  district.  Generally  they  have 
been  successful  in  saving  the  gold.  They  are  nearly  all  supplied  with  battery 
amalgamators,  copi)er  plates  and  aiTastras. 

The  Whitlatch  Union  Vein  has  been  more  fully  opened  than  any  other  in 
Montana.  Its  strike  is  east-southeast  and  west-northwest ;  dip  40°  to  the  north- 
ward; thickness  of  vein  from  a  seam  to  15  feet;  average  4  feet;  opened  to  the 
depth  of  250  feet,  and  in  a  numl)er  of  ])oints  inclines  have  l)een  sunk  to  depths 
Irom  100  to  200  feet.  It  has  been  traced  for  a  long  distance  on  the  suiiace,  and 
several  different  companies  are  at  work  on  it. 

The  ore  is  worked  with  the  greatest  facility.  Its  average  yield  has  been  about 
S40  to  the  ton.  One  lot  of  1,000  tons  yielded  SGO,000,  or'SGO  per  ton.  The 
gross  yield,  so  far,  has  been  $250,000,  as  near  as  is  known  by  the  working  of 
the  dilierent  mills. 

On  Ten-mile  creek  some  veins  have  been  located  in  limestone,  which  con- 
tain gold,  silver,  copper,  lead,  &c.,  but  they  have  not  been  sufficienth'  developetl 
to  prove  their  depth  or  promise. 

It  is  a  general  rule  in  Montana  that  where  placer  mines  are  found  gold-bear- 
ing quartz  veins  will  be  found  in  the  same  vicinity. 

On  some  of  the  bars  of  the  Missouri  river  preparations  are  being  made  for 
mining. 

At  El  Dorado  bar  a  ditch  is  nearly  completed  to  bring  the  water  from  New 
York  gulch.  When  this  is  done  the  bar  can  be  worked  by  hydraulics,  and  will 
probabl\^  pay.  Recently  it  was  suj)posed  that  diamonds  had  been  found  on  the 
bar,  but  on  examination  the  supposed  diamonds  proved  to  be  sappliires.  Some 
of  them  were  fine,  thoug"^i  small. 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  503 

,1  siilo  of  the  Missouri  tire  ;i  niiiubor  of  jrulclios  that  have  paid  well. 
Clark,  ()r('j;(>n,  and  Cave  have  been  profitably  worked  this  season. 

j\I()NTANA  Uah. — This  bar  is  just  below  the  niouth  of  i\lontana  cfnlch,  and 
near  300  yards  above  Diamond  City.  It  is  about  one-fourth  of  a  niih^  long 
and  oOO  yards  wide.  It  is  estimated  that  tlu'^  best  claims,  of  r^OO  feet  in  length, 
extending  across  this  bar,  paid  as  much  as  $180,000  to  the  elaiui.  Tiie  earth 
was  shallow  and  the  bed-nn-k  slate.  Between  the  9tli  of  ]May  and  the  15th  of 
August  the  whole  bar  was  worked  out.  The  gold  was  rather  coarse  and  rough, 
showing  that  it  had  been  washed  but  a  short  distance.  The  gnunid  was  slate, 
of  the  same  character  as  the  bed-rock. 

T!'e  ])Osition  of  this  bar  is  considered  anomalous  by  the'  miners  ;  nearly  fill 
say  that  it  is  a  ''slide/'  a  term  generally  used  in  mining,  like  ''electricity"  in 
]>hysics,  to  exjdain  by  words  what  is  not  conceivable  in  thought.  No  doubt  the 
bar  wat;  formed  by  the  action  of  water,  in  precisely  the  same  manner  as  other 
bars  are  formed  in  small  mountain  streams.  As  it  is  lower  than  several  other 
bars  in  this  stream  it  nuist  be  of  more  recent  formation.  Along  the  sides  of  the 
gulch  the  ascent  is  very  abrupt,  the  mountains  on  the  east  side  being  from  1,000 
to  2,000  feet  above  the  bed  of  the  stream.  On  each  side  of  the  bar  is  a  bed  of 
ground  from  200  to  250  feet  above  this  bottom  level,  and  a  slide,  to  find  its  way 
to  the  centre  of  the  gulch,  must  have  passed  over  one  or  the  other  of  these 
bars — an  impossibility. 

The  gravel  in  the  other  bars  is  granite,  with  heavy  lioulders,  evidently  from 
the  granite  nioiuitains  on  the  east,  while  the  gravel  in  Montana  bar  is  slate. 
Very  little  quartz  is  found  in  this  gravel,  showing  that  the  veins  whence  the  gold 
came  were  soft  and  friable. 

DiAiioxD  Bak. — Diamond  bar  contains  the  same  gravel  and  the  same  quality 
of  gold,  and  is  really  a  continuation  of  ^iontana  bar;  above  and  below  on  this 
gulch  nothing  like  it  is  found.  The  combined  length  of  the  two  bars  is  not 
more  than  three-fourths  of  a  mile. 

At  the  head  of  Montana  bar  are  a  number  of  soft  decomposed  quartz  veins, 
which  probably  supplied  it  with  gold.  If  the  veins  were  thoroughly  explored, 
they  Svould  be  very  likely  to  prove  rich  in  gold.  IMontana  bar  was  entirely 
exhausted  last  year.  Diamond  l»ar  is  being  very  efficiently  w-orked  by  hydrau- 
lics this  year,  and  by  the  end  of  this  season  will  probably  be  exhausted. 

GoLi:)  Hill,  on  the  west  side,  Avill  he  supplied  with  water  by  a  costly  ditch 
and  sijihon,  sometime  during  the  autumn.  This  will  be  more  enduring  tlian  the 
bars  in  the  bottom  of  the  gulch.  The  bed  and  hill  diggings  to  the  southwest 
will  be  ])rofitable  mines  for  years.  Some  gold-bearing  (piartz  veins  have  been 
fiiund  in  the  hills  on  the  west  side,  but  they  have  not  been  opened  to  prove  their 
value,  to  any  great  extent. 

New  Yoijic  Gulch  has  been  worked  for  gold-bearing  quartz.  It  has  three 
mills,  one  of  which  is  running.  This  district  is  somewhat  out  of  repute  at  })reseut ; 
it  is  said  the  veins  do  not  pay  as  well  when  followed  down  as  at  the  surface, 
lint  this  is  probably  the  eflects  of  overestimating  the  yield  at  the  surJ'ace;  aJid 
as  greater  depth  is  attained,  finding  the  ore  more  refractory,  it  will  not  yield  its 
gold  to  the  simple  working  of  tin*  luills. 

Highland  Distuict,  al)out  60  miles  south  from  II(dena,  is  remarkable  as  pro- 
ducing a  very  fine  gold.  It  contains  both  placer  and  quartz  mine.s,  but  is  not 
as  much  worked  as  formerly.  It  is  the  most  elevated  mining  district  in  Montana, 
and  probably  in  the  United  States. 

The  ^It)utana  Post  of  August  31,  1867,  says:  "In  Highland  district  the  larger 
proportion  of  the  lodes  are  gold-bearing,  but  specimens  from  someoi  these  lately 


504 


RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND   TERRITORIES 


] 


discovered  and  subjected  to  the  action  of  fire  show  rich  in  silver.     The  foUow- 
inir  are  the  names  of  leads  in  Hi^'hland  district : 


No. 


Natups  of  leads. 


Ballarat 

Forrest  Queen  . 
A.  P.  Nevinrs... 
Gold  Kxcel.  ... 
Oaly  Chance... 
Park 


Talcoe 

Bijou 

East  Wheel  Rose. 

Oro  Piftra 

Wilbur 


Voleuy 

Gallus  Widow 
Belfast 


South  America. 

Reward 

Roanoke 

Corvdou 

Hvland 


Camp 

I.  N.  Meyers 
Beudigo 


Red  Mountain 

Waterbury 

Iron  Rod 

Highland  Summit. 

Golconrta 

General  Warren  . . 


Depth    of 
shaft. 


45 

15 

4.1 

16 

50 

30 

17 

13 

24 
Crevice  found 

44 

]i> 

10 

16 

18 
Crevice  found, 

10 
Crevice  found 

do 

do 

23 

10 

10 

11 
Crevice  found, 
...do  

10 

11 
Crevice  found. 


Width     of 
crevice. 


During'  the  last  summer  the  mining'  current  has  set  to  the  north,  along^  the 
Big  Blackfoot.  A  number  of  gulches  have  been  extensively  worked,  and  have 
produced  largely,  as  Washington^  Jefferson,  Lincoln,  California,  and  McClellan 
gulches. 

In  the  heads  of  these  gulches  gold-bearing  quartz  has  been  found.  The 
placers  only  have  been  worked,  and  they  have  paid  well.  The  hostility  of  the 
Indians  tliis  year  has  ])revented  explorations  farther  north.  It  is  probable  that 
when  exidttred,  gold  will  be  found  on  botli  slopes  of  the  Ilt)cky  mountains  north 
to  the  British  possessions. 

The  mines  on  the  Little  Blackfoot  have  paid  well  this  season,  particularly  at 
Carpentiers  bar,  and  on  Opliir  gulch,  near  Blackfoot  City.  j\rany  other  gulches 
in  this  vicinit}'  have  also  ])eeu  productive,  and  the  yield  of  IJeer  Lodge  county 
Avill  be  greater  this  year  than  ever  before. 

At  Silver  bar  and  Butte  City  the  mines  have  done  well.  Placers  only  have 
been  worked;  but  in  every  gulch  where  good  phwer  mines  are  found,  gold-bear- 
ing quartz  veins  are  found  also,  many  of  which  contain  silver,  copper,  antimony, 
arsenic,  and  manganese,  and  are  rich  but  very  reiVactory. 

At  Butte  City  some  copper  mines  have  been  discovered,  and  a  furnace  erected 
for  smelting.  Owing  to  a  defect  in  the  blast  it  was  not  successful.  The  ore, 
which  is  quite  abundant,  is  composed  of  oxides  and  carbonates  in  a  concentrated 
form.  It  contains  gold  and  silver,  and  with  a  well  regulated  furnace  there 
would  be  no  difliculty  in  smelting  it. 

These  veins  are  i'ound  crossing  a  belt  al>out  one  mile  wide  and  four  or  five 
long,  and  show  evidence^  of  being  deep  and  permanent. 

Along  the  eastern  sidi^  of  Deer  Lodge  valley,  north  from  Butte  City,  are  a 
number  of  gulches  which  have  been  prospected  lately,  and  promise  to  pay  well. 


WEST   OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  505 

CoMSTOCK. — At  Butte  City  resides  llonry  Coinstoclv,  famous  as  llie  discoverer 
of  the  Coinstock  lode,*  of  Nevada,  the  discovery  of  which  inaugurated  the  era  of 
silver  uiiuiui;  in  the  United  States.  Although  a  man  of  the  strictest  temperance, 
using  no  stimulant  stronger  than  tea  or  coflee,  and  not  even  tobacco,  j-ears  and 
the  hardships  and  excitement  incident  to  a  frontier  life  are  telling  ])ainfully  on 
his  facullies.  In  a  conversation  with  him  he  referred  to  his  past  career — esj)e- 
cially  his  connecti»>n  with  the  lode  that  bears  his  name..  His  intellect  appears  to 
^vander,  although  his  hand  still  retains  its  cumiing.  He  is  a  skiUul  prospector, 
but  his  fading  recollectiosis  carry  cloudy  images  to  his  darkened  understanding. 
He  imagines  he  owns  the  whole  Comstock  lode,  and  the  cities  (»f  (lold  Hill  and 
Virginia;  but  as  he  has  no  immediate  use  for  them,  he  alhjws  others  to  live  iu 
his  houses;  the  people  are  poor,  and  it  would  be  hard  to  turn  them  out,  especially 
in  the  winter.  'JMiis  feeling  of  benevolence  iu  the  old  num  is  genuine,  and  one 
that  he  hal)itually  jn-actices.  He  has  a  small  claim  that  pays  little  more  than 
wages.  If  a  poor  miner  comes  along  without  means,  he  gives  him  an  opportu- 
nity to  work  iu  the  claim  until  the  saifering  stranger  has  the  means  to  go  on  his 
journey. 

Recently  an  emigrant  came  along  who  was  sick  and  could  work  but  little. 
Comstock  and  he  A^orked  together  in  the  claim ;  the  old  maii  doing  the  most 
laborious  part  until  the  emigrant  concluded  to  leave.  Comstock  then  divided 
what  was  taken  out,  and  s<?eing  it  was  too  small  for  a  man  to  travel  on,  said: 
"Xow,  we  will  divide  my  half  again;   you  will  need  it." 

He  says  that  at  times  he  thinks  if  the  government  of  the  United  States  knew 
how  he  is  situated,  it  would  not  let  him  suffer. 

Flint  Ckeek. — On  Flint  creek  several  silver-bearing  veins  have  been  found 
recently,  which  show  large  amounts  of  rich  ore  at  the  surface.  Tlu;'y  liave  not 
been  opened  so  as  to  prove  their  depth  or  continuity.  The  country  rock  is  lime- 
stone. 

Hot  Springs. — At  the  head  of  Hot  Springs  creek,  a  mine  called  the  Atlantic 
Cable  has  recently  been  found  containing  an  oxide  of  iron,  rich  in  •■old.  It  is 
said  to  bo  a  slide.     The  ore  is  wonderfully  rich  and  easily  worked. 

'I'he  Jeffekson  Basin. — This  basin  is  draine<l  by  the  Jellerson  Fork  of  the 
Missouri  river  and  its  tributaries,  to  wit:  the  Big  Hole,  Beaver  Head,  and  the 
Stinking  Water.  It  is  about  150  miles  long,  and  100  wide.  In  this  basin  the 
first  extensive  mining  operations  were  conducted,  and  the  first  town  of  any 
iiiipiu-tance  was  built.     It  still  contains  a  number  of  important  mining  localities. 

The  Big  Hole  is  so  called  from  a  small  round  valley  near  its  head,  surrounded 
by  a  range  of  high  mountains.  Here  the  snow  falls  to  a  great  depth  in  wiiUer, 
As  it  melts  in  the  .'vpring  and  siinnuer,  it  swells  the  Big  Hole  to  a  large  and 
rapid  stream,  from  50  to  75  yards  wide  in  the  lowest  stages,  and  niu(;h  wider  in 
the  highest.  The  bars  and  bottoms  along  this  stream  are  subject  to  overilow, 
and  are  generally  rocky  and  barren.  Big  Hole  basin  affords  good  pasturage  in 
the  sunnner,  but  it  is  too  cold  for  agricultural  ptu-jjoses. 

In  1805  Lewis  and  Clark  attem])ted  to  ascend  this  river,  birt  found  the  current 
so  rai)id,  and  the  number  of  i.slands  and  other  obstructions  so  great,  that  they 
turned  back  and  ascended  the  Beaver  Head  river. 

Gold  has  been  found  in  small  quantities  in  some  of  the  tributaries  of  this  river, 
Imt  not  in  sufficient  abundance  to  pay  for  washing.  Coal  is  said  to  have  been 
found  in  the  ])asin,  but  the  deposits  have  not  been  explored  sufficiently  to  deter- 
mine their  value. 

*The  first  discovery  of  silver  was  mado  in  Gold  canon,  near  Silver  City,  by  E.  A.  and  H. 
B.  Grosch,  iu  Iri57.  The  first  (piartz  claim  was  located  in  the  Ing^rini  district,  in  February, 
lf?58,  by  James  Finney.  In  Juno,  18;VJ,  Peter  O'Keilly  and  Patrick  McLaiifrliHu  made  the 
first  discovery  of  rich  silver  depo.<!its  on  what  is  now  the  ground  of  tlie  Ojiiiir  Company, 
Comstock  is  not  jnstly  entitletl  to  the  credit  {generally  awarded  him  for  this  discovery.  (See 
preliminary  report  on  Mineral  liesources  of  the  West,  printed  by  Congress,  Jamuuy  S,  18U7, 
pp.  27  and  do.) 


506  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

Game,  sucli  as-  buffalo,  moose,  elk,  deer,  beaver,  and  mountain  slieep,  are 
abundant.. 

The  Beaver  Head  is  longer  and  drains  a  larger  area  than  the  Big  Hole,  and 
may  IViirly  claim  to  be  the  head  of  the  Missouri. 

Bannock  Citt.— ^Bannock  City  is  built  on  the  north  side  of  Grasshopper 
creek,  on  a  small  flat  or  bar  of  just  sufficient  size  to  hold  the  town,  and  very  near 
the  entrance  of  Grasshopper  canon.  It  is  an  iiTegular  wooden  town  with  one 
principal  street  ninning  parallel  to  the  creek,  containing  but  a  few  hundred 
inhal)itants  at  present.  In  1862-63  it  was  a  good  mining  camp,  and  business 
was  brisk.  Its  main  dependence  for  the  future  is  tlie  gold-bearing  quartz  lodes 
in  the  canon  below. 

Bannock  was  the  first  mining  town  built  in  Montana,  and  the  first  district  in 
which  gold  mines  were  worked  extensively  and  profital)ly. 

The  winter  of  1862-63  was  remarkably  mild,  so  that  supplies  could  be  hauled 
from  Salt  lake  during  the  coldest  months.  Had  that  season  been  as  severe  as 
the  winters  have  since  been,  the  whole  population  might  have  perished  from 
starvation.  Coal  is  reported  to  have  been  found  in  the  valley  of  Grasshopper 
creek,  about  four  miles  above  Bannock,  but  its  value  has  not  been  ascertained. 

Stinking  Water. — The  next  stream  wdiich  contributes  to  form  the  Jefierson  is 
tlie  Stinking  Water.  Its  Indian  name  is  Passamarine,  one  of  the  most  musical 
in  the  Indian  language.  It  is  not  improved  by  its  rendition  into  English.  On 
this  stream  and  its  branches  many  rich  mines  are  found. 

In  the  ranges  of  mountains  between  the  Stinking  Water  and  the  Madison 
forlc  of  the  Missouri,  sent  dow'n  into  the  former,  are  a  large  number  of  creeks  and 
gulches,  nearly  all  of  which  have  proved  to  be  rich  i'n  gold,  and  some  of  them 
in  silver.  The  principal  are  Wixanscn,  Ram's  Horn,  Bevius,  Harris,  California, 
and  Alder  gulches,  and  Mill  creek. 

Alder  Gulch. — Alder  gulch  rises  in  a  spur  of  the  Bocky  mountains,  and 
runs  north.  It  is  from  15  to  17  miles  in  length,  and  empties  into  the  Stinking 
Water,  a  branch  of  the  Jefierson  fork  of  the  IMissouri  river.  It  has  many  side 
gulches  or  tributaries,  l)ut  iionc^  of  them  except  Spring  and  Bowers  gulches,  which 
are  near  its  head,  have  any  gold,  or  at  least  not  sufficient  to  pay.  The  hills  on 
each  side  are  rouiuled  ofi'  and  covered  with  soil,  presenting  the  soft  outline  of  an 
agricultural  country.  The  denuding  effects  of  time  have  doubtless  been  of  long 
continuance. 

A  careful  examination  of  the  gulch  will  convince  anv  one  that  the  gold  in  it 
came  from  near  the  head,  at  its  junction  with  Bald  mountain.  The  gold  at  that 
j)oint  is  coarse  and  rough,  with  portions  of  quartz  adhering  to  it ;  further  down 
the  stream  it  becomes  finer  and  brighter,  showing  unmistakable  evidence  of 
having  been  worn  by  the  action  of  water.  Near  the  mouth  it  is  excessively 
fine,  and  cannot  be  collected  in  a  satisfactory  manner  except  l)y  the  use  of  quick- 
silver. 

The  gravel  is  very  coarse  and  heavy  high  up  the  gulch,  containing  many 
boulders  of  a  large  size ;  further  down  it  becomes  worn  away  to  small  })articles, 
and  at  the  naouth  only  sand  and  very  fine  gravel  are  found.  The  country  rock 
at  oi'  near  the  heml  is  g-neiss,  and  tlie  same  rock  holds  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance ;  below  it  is  i'ei)la('ed  by  micaceous  slate.  Near  the  head  the  rocks  rise  on 
each  side  in  a  vi'ry  precipitous  manner,  forcing  the  gulch  iiito  a  narrow  cut  or 
fissure,  but  below,  at  the  distance  of  three  or  four  miles,  it  Avidens  out.  The 
paying  pt)rtions  corres])ond  in  width  to  the  bed  of  the  stream,  and  are  richest 
where  the  bed  is  narrowest. 

This  gulch  is  a  vast  natural  <piartz  mill  and  mine.  Frost  and  atmospheiic 
action  loosen  the  quartz  c(uitainiiig  the  gold,  and  throw  it  down,  when  the  attri- 
tion caused  by  the  current  of"  water  pul\eriz(>s  and  washes  away  the  gangue, 
leaving  the  gold  behind.  This  action,  though  very  slow,  extending  back  through 
countless  ages,  produces  stu2)endous  results. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  507 

Tlie  iiuuibor  (if  quartz  veins  found  at  the  lioad  of  Alder  jrulch,  known  to  con- 
tain gold  in  sntlicient  amounts  to  add  materially  to  its  produrts,  is  not  more  than 
20,  of  which  the  average  width  is  about  two  feet,  and  the  average  assay  value 
about  SIO  jier  ton,  estimating  all  the  vein  stufl"  between  the  walls. 

Alder  iTulch  has  produced  more  gold  than  all  the  others,  and  ])ro])ably  more 
within  the  last  three  years  than  ever  wa^j  taken  in  the  same  time  from  any  gulch 
of  tlie  same  extent.  It  is  the  opinion  of  those  best  <iualiiied  to  judge  that  within 
tlu'ee  years  from  the  commencem(>nt  of  mining  operations  on  this  gulch 
SoO.000,000  were  taken  from  it.  This  estimate  mav  be  exaggerated,  but  the 
amount  taken  out  was  certainly  beyond  precedent  in  Montana. 

The  tnines  were  discovered  in  the  spring  of  1863,  and  in  18  months  a  popula- 
tion of  10,000  had  gatliered  together  on  the  banks  of  the  stream,  building  np 
four  considerable  cities,  to  wit :  Nevada,  Central,  Virginia,  and  Sunmiit  City. 
Virginia  was  built  first,  and,  occupying  a  central  position,  always  maintained 
its  supremacy.  It  is  pleasantly  located  on  the  east  bank  of  Alder  gulch,  and 
contains  a  number  of  fine  stone  buildings,  consisting  of  banks,  stores,  markets, 
dwelHngs,  &c.  It  snpj)orts  two  newsjiapers,  and  is  one  of  the  chief  mining  and 
(•(mnnercial  centres  in  Montana.  Helena  is  its  only  rival.  Although  the  first 
excitement  incident  to  the  discovery  of  a  new  and  rich  mining  district  has  passed 
away,  and  the  mines  most  easily  worked  have  already  been  worked  over  once, 
still  the  annual  jn'oduction  is  large.  By  proper  Avorking,  as  will  be  explained 
hereafter,  the  future  i)roduction  may  be  made  equal  to  the  past. 

It  is  the  opinion  of  the  best  judges,  as  already  stated,  that  830,000,000  have 
been  taken  out  of  this  gulch  by  the  miners.*     This  cannot  be  considered  more 

*  Such  a  proJuct  from  one  prulc-li  is  beyond  all  precedent,  and  ninst  appear  a  great  exag- 
geration. But  if  well-authenticated  facts  are  examined  the  amount  appears  more  reasona- 
l)le.  For  a  considerable  time  tlie  population  was  1U,U00  or  upwards  ;  probably  8,r)00  work- 
men in  the  mines.  Ten  dollars  per  day  for  220  daj's  in  the  year  would  give  W'iG, 9.30, 000  for 
three  years  and  a  half.  Wages  were  from  .^^10  to  $IA  per  day.  Nearly  all  of  the  mines  were 
worked  by  hired  labor  and  the  mines  almost  universally  paid  a  profit  above  wages.  The 
whole  niunber  of  claims  was  bet\veen  1,OUO  and  1,JU0;  at  J, 000  each  claim  must  give  a 
gross  yield  of  $:]0,000. 

Montana  is  the  most  difficult  mining  region  in  the  United  States  in  which  to  estimate  the 
yield  of  the  mines.  Occu])atiou  has  a  great  eflect  in  the  formation  of  opinions  on  this  sub- 
ject. Bankers  and  expressmen  always  underestimate;  merchants  and- successful  miners 
generally  overestimate;  unsuccessful  miners  underestimate,  while  ranchmen  and  fai'mers 
have  no  opinions  based  upon  any  reliable  data  on  the  subject.  After  the  gold  is  taken  from 
the  mines  it  passes  through  a  nund>er  of  different  channels,  some  of  which  enable  us  to  esti- 
mate tke  amount  produced  with  tolerable  accuracy,  whilst  in  other  cases  no  accurate  cou- 
clusion  can  be  formed.  A  portion  is  sent  by  express  to  the  mint  for  coinage.  Kemittances 
by  merchants  are  generally  known  to  comprise  the  amount  that  miners  expend  for  current 
expenses;  also,  what  they  send  to  their  families  or  friends  in  other  places.  A  small  qiuin- 
tity  is  used  for  a  circulating  medium  ;  this  also  comes  froai  the  miners  as  current  expenses. 
A  considerable  amount  is  buried  in  the  earth  by  the  miners,  but  no  accurate  estimate  can  be 
formed  on  t-his  point.  Of  the  amounts  canied  out  of  the  Territory  a  portion  is  taken  by  the 
miners  them.selves;  of  this  no  account  appears.  If  a  miner  goes  to  California  1k^  takes  Ids 
dust  with  him,  and  it  is  carried  to  the  credit  of  California  or  Oregon  or  I^vada,  as  the  case 
may  be.  Some  is  carried  to  foreign  countries,  as  the  British  po.ssessions,  which  join  Montana 
on  the  north  ;  lastly,  a  portion  is  kept  in  the  form  of  specimens  or  for  jewellers'  uses.  Thus 
we  see  it  is  dithcult  to  arrive  at  more  than  an  approximation. 

An  account  of  the  amount  of  the  goods  brought  to  the  Territory  furnishes  a  criterion  for 
some  statisticians,  wlio,  assuming  that  the  goods  were  all  paid  for,  a'dd  the  amount  to  what 
gold  is  supposed  to  be  in  the  country  and  what  was  sent  out  for  other  purposes,  and  make 
the  sum  total  the  gross  production  of  the  Territory.  This  is  a  very  loose  way  of  getting  at 
results.  Others  take  the  cost  of  board  per  week,  say  $4  to  $8  when  wages  are  liom  .§5  to  §9 
per  day,  and  state  it  thus  :  as  G  to  4-J,  so  is  the  amount  expended  for  provisions  to  the  gross 
yield  of  the  mines.  Manifestly  incorrect,  as  many  are  non-producers.  Probably  the  best 
criterion  is  the  price  of  labor.  A  mine  owner  will  not  long  employ  men  unless  lie  derives  a 
profit,  and  miners  will  not  work  for  the  same  amount  that  they  are  sure  of  making  by  them- 
selves, for  they  think  they  may  "  strike  it  rich  "  on  their  own  account.  Alder  gulch  is  an 
exception,  for  here  is  a  limited  number  of  claims,  and  those  who  have  no  claim  cannot  malte 
wages  by  prospecting. 


608  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

than  one-fourth  of  the  amount  that  has  come  from  the  veins  at  the  head  of  the 
gulch.  Probably  one-tenth  would  be  neai'cr  the  amount,  especially  when  we 
consider  the  extremely  divisible  nature  of  that  metal  and  the  facility  Anth  which 
minute  particles  are  transported  by  water,  a  large  portion  of  them  being-  so  small 
that  it  is  impossible  ta  collect  them  by  any  gold-saving  process  yet  devised. 
Rating-  the  amount  already  extracted  at  one-fourth,  this  would  give  $120,000,000 
as  the  actual  mineral  value  of  the  gulch.  At  $10  per  ton  this  would  require 
12,000,000  tons  of  quartz  to  be  reduced,  provided  all  the  gold  in  the  rock  is 
extracted.  At  13  feet  to  the  ton  a  result  of  156,000,000  cubic  feet  of  quartz 
must  be  reduced  to  produce  that  amount  of  gold ;  equal  to  the  product  of  20 
veins  two  feet  thick,  each  a  mile  long  and  nearly  1,000  feet  deep.* 

The  general  appearance  of  the  country  warrants  the  belief  that  the  denuda- 
tion is  fully  equal  to  2,000  feet.  Bald  mountain,  which  stands  at  the  head  of 
the  gulch,  rises  to  the  height  of  between  2,000  and  3,000  feet  above  the  quartz 
veins  at  the  head  of  mining  operations.  A  great  length  of  time  must  have 
elap«ed  since  this  denuding  operation  commenced,  and  it  is  still  in  action  and 
will  continue  until  either  man  fm>stalls  nature  in  extracting  the  gold  from  the 
veins,  or  some  great  upheaval  changes  the  face  of  the  country  and  causes  the 
formation  of  a  new  set  of  watercourses. 

The  country  rock  contains  a  large  amoinit  of  mica.  After  a  gentle  shower 
the  whole  face  of  the  earth  is  colored  a  fine  bronze. 

The  first  mining  distiict  found  on  the  gulch  was  Fairweather,  called  after  one 
of  the  discoverers.  Above  this  were  Highland,  Pine  Grove,  and  Summit,  and 
below,  Nevada  and  Junction,  their  locations  extending  from  Fairweather  district 
in  the  order  in  which  they  are  named.  Each  had  a  code  of  laws  almost  identi- 
cal with  that  of  Fairweather.  These  laws  have  been  subject  to  trifling  changes, 
and  generally  have  been  very  satisfactoiy  in  their  operations. 

In  the  lower  districts  claims  only  come  to  tha  centre  of  the  gulcJi,  thus  giving 
double  the  number  that  w-ere  held  above ;  the  same  on  the  banks.  Not  far  from 
1,000  claims  are  located  in  this  manner,  and  it  is  remarkable  that  nearly. every 
claim  paid  for  working  when  wages  were  from  $10  to  $14  per  day  in  gold.  From 
many  of  the  best  claims  $150,000,  and  from  some  as  much  as  $200,000,  have 
been  taken  out. 

The  usual  method  of  W'Orking  was  to  sink  a  shaft  14  or  15  feet  to  the  bed 
rock  and  extract  the  rich  gravel,  which  Avas  from  one  to  three  feet  thick,  by 
drifting.  In  this  way  a  considerable  amount  of  ground  was  left  as  pillars  to 
support  the  ground  above.  The  bed  rock  cannot  be  worked  with  the  care  neces- 
sary to  extract  all  the  gold.  When  gold  is  very  abmidant  the  miners  become 
careless  and  do  not  work  closely.  This  gulch  was  worked  to  a  great  extent  by 
hired  men,  who  are  not  as  careful  as  the  owners  of  the  mine.  In  some  of  the 
deepest  claims  water  retarded  the  working  or  jirevented  it  entirely.  Owing  to 
these  causes  it  is  ])r()bable  only  about  half  the  gold  has  l)een  taken  out  that  can 
be  obtained  by  carelul  and  thorough  working.  The  object  of  each  miner  was 
to  get  as  nuich'gold  as  possible  in  the  shortest  time  and  depart  for  his  home, 
expending  only  sufficient  to  defray  current  expenses. 

The  water  in  the  gidch  nearly  sufficed  th(^  wants  of  the  early  miners.  Up  to 
this  time  only  two  suiall  and  inexpensive  ditches  have  been  coustnicted.  It  is 
proposed  to  bring  water  from  the  Jell'erson  or  the  Stinking  AVater  rivers.  From 
the  Jefierson  a  large  amoimt  could  be  brought  in  at  the  head  of  the  gulch,  but  the 
cost  would  be  great.  From  the  Stinking  Water  the  cost  would  be  less,  but  the 
water  could  not  reach  the  head  of  the  gulch  by  two  or  three  miles,  and  the  sup- 
ply would  l>e  insufficient. 

Near  the  up})er  })art  of  the  gulch  small  Humes  are  in  course  of  construction, 

*  This,  however,  is  a  very  unreliable  mode  of  calculation. — J.  R.  B 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS 


509 


Tliev  are  iliscounoott'd  and  too  slioit  to  bo  ollicicnt.  To  work  in  the  most  eco- 
nomical anil  thorough  maimer  reqnires  a  largo  fliuuo  IVoiu  the  moutli  of  the  gulch 
uj)  to  the  head,  willi  a  large  amount  of  water. 

The  greatest  obstacle  to  placer  mining  in  jMontana  is  the  want  of  fall  or 
descent,  and  (his  is  particularly  the  case  in  Alder  gulch.  To  overcome  this  dif- 
licidty  awd  keep  the  works  in  running  order  it  will  be  necessary  to  have  the  Hume 
double  at  certain  points,  with  a  reservoir  in  each,  so  that  when  one  reservoir  is 
lilled  with  sand  and  gravel,  the  water  can  be  turned  into  the  other  flume  while  the 
liist  reservoir  is  emjHied.  This  can  bo  done  l)y  a  steam  paddy  or  otlun-  machin- 
ery. 15y  having  places  for  the  sand  to  settle  and  be  removed  at  two  or  three 
])Mints  along  the  ilume,  it  can  1)0  kept  in  running  order. 

By  such  a  flume  system  and  the  use  of  hydraulics  the  gulch  can  be  thoroughly 
worliod,  and  its  futiu'c  production  made  at  least  equal  to  its  past.  This  mclliod 
of  mining  requires  cai)ital.  The  minors  generally  are  employed  by  an  individ- 
ual or  ct)uq)any  and  the  profits  divideil  amongst  few.  The  last  working  usually 
occupies  about  twice  the  length  of  time  occupied  by  the  first. 

Summit  City. — Summit  City  is  substantially  built  of  logs,  but  in  building 
this  town  the  streets  appear  to  have  been  forgotten  at  first  and  j)utin  afterwards. 
In  case  of  fire  the  whole  town  would  burn  with  as  much  facility  as  a  single 
house.  It  seems  strange,  after  so  many  mining  towns  havebeeu  utterly  destroyed 
by  fire,  that  in  laying  out  a  new  one,  where  the  ground  costs  nothing,  the  streets 
should  not  bo  loft  sufficiently  wide  to  form  a  barrier  to  the  progress  of  fire,  as 
well  as  a  means  of  communication.  "With  a  sufilciont  width,  afire  could  be  con- 
fii;ed  to  one  S(piare. 

The  rich  and  extensive  quartz  veins  in  this  vicinity  will  probably  render  Sum- 
mit City  pennanently  prosperous. 

Nevada. — xVfter  Virginia,  Nevada  was  the  largest  town  on  Alder  gulch.  At 
present  it  shows  signs  of  decay.  In  tlie  winter  the  people  of  the  inhabited  parts 
(jf  the  town  make  use  of  the  uninhabited  houses  for  firewood.  If  a  lied-rock 
flume  is  put  in  the  gidch,  Nevada  will  probably  regain  in  some  degree  its  former 
life  and  activity. 

Junction  City  and  Cextkal  City  were  also  at  one  time  lively  little  towTis. 
Now  they  are  more  remarkable  for  quietness  than  for  the  commotion  of  business. 

j\rost  of  the  other  gulches  in  this  vicinity  iiave  small  collections  of  houses, 
hardly  suflicient  to  justify  the  name  of  towns. 

The  range  of  mountains  called  Virginia  is  not  as  high  as  the  mountains  around 
the  head  of  Big  Hole;  still  they  are  sufficiently  high  to  retain  snow  tlie  greater 
part  of  the  year.  This  range  aboinuls  in  springs  and  streams  of  running  water, 
and  forests  of  pine  and  fir  in  the  ravines  and  canons. 

Valley  of  the  Stixkixo  Water. — The  A^alloy  of  the  Stinking  Water  is 
1')  or  20  miles  long  and  5  or  6  broad,  with  some  good  farming  and  grazing  land, 
but  generally  it  is  not  very  fertile.  At  the  confiuonco  of  the  Big  llole  and  the 
Beaver  IIea»l  is  a  large  valley  very  similar  to  the  vallev  of  the  Stinking  Water. 
By  a  jiroper  system  of  imgation  both  of  those  valleys  could  be  rendered  avail- 
able for  agricultural  purposes.  Want  of  timber  is  one  of  the  most  serious  incou- 
venionccs. 

Among  the  old  mountaineers  this  fork  of  the  Missouri  was  known  as  the  Beaver 
Head,  and  took  its  name  from  a  point  of  rocks  on  its  north  bank,  about  15  miles 
above  the  month  of  the  Big  Hole,  called  by  the  Indians  Beavers  Head,  wliich 
it  closely  resembles  when  viewed  from  a  point  near  the  month  of  the  Stinking 
Water.  ' 

Gallatix  Valley. — The  section  of  country  drained  by  the  ^ladison.Calla- 
tin,  and  the  Missouri  down  to  its  junction  with  the  Dearborn  river,  is  about  175 
miles  long  and  SO  miles  wide.  In  this  district  of  country  lies  the  valley  of  Three 
Forks  and  Gallatin,  about  40  miles  long  and  12  wide,  which  may  be  considered 


510  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TEERITOEIES 

tlie  garden  of  Montana.  The  season  is  from  four  to  six  weeks  earlier  ttan  in 
the  valley  of  the  Big  Hole,  and  the  climate  is  as  good  as  that  of  Utah,  while  in 
fertility  the  soil  is  unsurpassed.  Here  farming  is  on  a  large  scale,  and  in  the 
course  of  a  year  or  two  the  valley  will  supply  the  Territory  with  wheat  and 
barley,  as  it  now  does  with  potatoes  and  vegetables. 

Other  Valleys  ais^d  Placees. — North  and  south,  Bouhler  and  Wallace 
creeks  empty  into  the  Missouri  from  the  west,  and  have  some  good  but  not  very 
rich  placer  mines  ;  also  some  quartz  veins,  containing  gold,  silver,  lead,  and  cop- 
per; but  they  are  not  attracting  much  attention  at  present. 

Further  down  comes  in  the  Prickly  Pear.  On  this  stream  and  its  branches  are 
some  excellent  mines.  The  towns  of  Montana,  Jefferson  and  Beaver  cities  are 
situated  on  this  stream.  Placer  and  quartz  mines  exist  here,  but  are  doing  but 
little  at  present. 

The  most  productive  gulch  in  this  part  of  Montana  is  Last  Chance,  which  is 
formed  by  the  junction  of  Oro  Fino,  Grizzly,  and  Dry  gulches,  and  «uptiesinto 
the  Prickly  Pear  not  far  above  its  mouth.  These  gulches  have  been  very  rich; 
also  Nelson's  gulch,  which  empties  into  Ten-mile  creek.  On  this  creek  are 
numerous  quartz  veins,  containing  gold,  silver,  copper,  &c.,  not  now  much  worked. 

Helena. — Helena,  the  largest  town  in  the  Territory,  is  situated  on  both  sides 
of  Last  Chance  gulch,  principally  on  the  south  side,  and  extends  over  an  elevated 
bar  to  Dry  gulch,  a  distance  of  three-quarters  of  a  mile.  It  is  well  and  regu- 
larly laid  out  for  a  mining  town,  containing  a  number  of  fire-proof  stone  build- 
ings. Many  of  the  wooden  buildings  have  fire-proof  safes  attached  to  them,  or 
an  outside  cellar  with  fire-proof  walls  and  d(Jor,  and  are  covered  with  heavy  dirt 
roofs.  Their  construction  is  not  costly,  and  in  combustible  mining  towns  they 
do  good  service  in  preserving  valuable  goods  from  fire. 

Helena  contains  an  active  population  of  miners,  merchants,  physicians,  law- 
yers, bankers,  and  that  miscellaneous  crowd  always  found  in  the  best  class  of 
mining  towns.  Residents  claim  that  its  population  numbers  from  7,U00  to  8,000 ; 
this  is  probably  an  exaggeration.  As  a  commercial  centre  it  has  stage  lines 
connecting  it  with  Virginia,  Diamond  City,  New  York  Bar,  Fort  Benton,  and 
Blackfoot  City.  Nearly  all  supplies  for  the  south  pass  through  it  on  their  way 
from  Fort  Benton. 

The  most  productive  gold-bearing  quartz  veins  in  Montana,  as  well  as  silver 
and  copper  mines,  (the  latter  un worked,)  are  in  this  vicinity.  The  plac«'rs  are 
extensive,  and  well  supplied  with  water  by  a  system  of  large  and  costly  ditches. 
On  the  heads  of  Grizzly  and  Oro  Fino  gulches  the  mountains  are  covered  with 
pines  and  fir,  and  along  the  Prickly  Pear  cottonwood  is  abundant. 

The  valley  of  the  Prickly  Pear  and  Ten-nule  creek  contains  a  considerable 
amount  of  good  farming  land  and  ft,  number  of  farms  imder  cultivation,  and  the 
surrounding  hills  afford  good  pasturage.  This  valley  is  nearly  circular  in  form 
and  1.5  miles  in  diameter. 

Helena  is  located  on  the  western  side,  close  under  the  foot  of  tl«e  mountains. 
A  more  pictures(pie  or  beautiful  situation  for  a  town  can  scarcely  be  imagined. 
A  broad  vista  stretches  away  to  the  east,  beyond  the  JMissouri  river. 

Bak  Mining. — From  the  mouth  of  the  Stinking  Water  down  to  the  Great 
Falls  all  the  bars  on  the  Missouri  river  contain  gold.  These  bars  will  probably 
be  among  the  most  lasting  placers  in  the  Territory.  LTp  to  the  present  time 
they  have  remained  tmworked,  except  El  Dorado  bar,  upon  which  operations 
liave  already  been  connnenced,  and  it  is  reported  with  favorable  results.  Alor«g 
the  Missouri  there  is  some  good  farming  and  grazing  land,  and  generally  the 
hills  in  the  vicinity  contain  timber. 

Confederate,  New  York,  and  a  number  of  other  gold-producing  gulches  come 
in  from  the  east,  just  above  the  mouth  of  Prickly  Pear. 

Coneedekate  GuLcn. — Of  these,  Confederate  is  the  richest;  after  Alder  and 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  511 

Last  Chanco  it  is  probably  the  riclicst  in  ^Ii)iitniia.  It  lias  produced  largely  since 
1865,  thoug'li  its  product  lias  not  been  so  groat  this  year  as  fomierly.  Diamond 
City  spning  up  on  this  gulch,  but  has  been  nearly  abandoned  by  the  washings 
from  the  hydraulics  in  the  rear  of  the  town. 

The  mountains  around  the  head  of  Confederate  gulch  arc  high,  and  contain 
pine  and  tir  timber  ;  also  numerous  streams.  Some  very  expensive  ditches  are 
in  coiu'se  of  construction  for  supplying  the  mines  with  water. 

Estimated  yield  of  Montana. 

1862 $500,000 

1SG:3 8,000,000 

1864 13,000.0<)0 

1865 14.500,000 

1866 16,500,0(10 

1667 12,000,000 

64, 500, 000 


^0V.& 


512 


RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 


IDAHO. 


SECTION    I. 

AREA    AND    POPULATION— MOUNTAINS,    RIVERS,    LAKES,    WATERFALLS, 
,     AND  BOILING  SPRINGS— VEGETATION— GEOLOGICAL  FEATURES— TOWNS 
AND  MINING  CAMPS. 

Area  and  Populatigis^. — In  form,  this  Ten-itoiy  is  almost  a  right-angled 
triangle.  Its  base,  about  350  miles  long  on  the  south,  rests  on  Nevada  and 
Utah,  with  a  per]:)endicular  of  about  420  miles,  separating  it  from  Oregon  and 
Washington  Territory  on  the  west.  Its  northern  point  touches  the  British  pos- 
sessions, and  its  hypothenuse  on  the  northeast  divides  it  from  the  Territories  of 
Montana  and  Dakota.  Its  area  is  about  90,000  scpiare  miles,*  but  inasmuch  as 
its  northeastern  boundary,  on  the  crests  of  the  Bitter  Root  and  Rocky  mountains, 
has  never  been  meandered,  this  estimate  is  only  an  approximation.  Its  popula- 
tion is  about  20,000  at  this  time.  As  estimated  by  the  territorial  assessor  it  was 
somewhat  larger  in  1866,  viz: 

TaMe  showing  the  principal  cities  and  totvns  of  Idaho  Territory,  the  county  in 
ivhich  each  is  located,  the  estimated  popidation  Septemher,  1866,  and  the  distance 
of  each  from  Boise  City,  the  territorial  cajntal. 


Counties. 

Name  of  town. 

Is 

O  -1 

^>' 
II 

9 
H 

Counties. 

Name  of  town. 

■5  'P 

o  — 
c.  - 

•^-^ 

■si. 
II 

o 

n 
s  >; 

1 

Ada 

2,050 

675 

1,  :oo 

5,860 

1,700 

1,000 

600 

150 

75 

1,100 

290 

1 

1  Nez  Perc6  . . 

i          Do 

Oneida 

Do 

Do 

Owyhee 

Do 

Do 

Stoshone. .. 
Do 

Total 

Elk  City 

450 
GoO 
300 
4i5 
75 
400 

350  N. 

Rocky  Bar 

Ceiiterville 

Idaho      City     and 
Buena  Vista  Bar. 

Pioneer  City 

Placerville 

100  N.  E. 
45  N. 
36  N.  E. 

55  N.  E. 

40  N. 
250  N. 
230  N. 
2(;0  N. 
230  N. 
330  N. 

350  N. 

450  E. 

Dc 

Do 

MaladeCity 

Soda  Springs 

348  E. 
450  E. 
79  S. 

Do 

Ruby  City 

1,  dOO  1          70  S. 

Silver  City 

3,  175             70  S. 

Do 

Miller's  Camp 

Slate  Creek 

Warren's  Diggings. 
Clearwater  Station  . 

350 
300 

450  N. 

Do 

Do 

Pierce  City 

450  N. 

21,7-25 

Mountains. — The  principal  mountains  are  the  Rocky,  Bitter  Root,  and  Bear 
mountains  on  tlie  east.  The  upheaval  of  these  ranges  has  tilted  the  whole  Teni- 
tory  to  the  west  at  a  greater  angle  than  that  of  any  other  State  or  Territory  of  the 
Pacific  slope.  In  the  south,  the  Owyhee  is  the  principal  range,  though  properly 
it  is  an  isohited  spur  rather  than  a  range.  This  region  of  country  contains  one 
of  the  principal  mining  districts  in  the  Tenntory.  Tlie  Bear  and  Rocky  moun- 
tains are  diflerent  branches  of  the  same  ntnge,  and  have  the  same  general  char- 
acter. ThT»  name  ''Rocky  mountains"  is  ;i  misnomer.  Instead  of  being  rough 
and  rocky,  they  a[)pcar  to  be  old,  with  their  highest  peaks  abraded,  worn  down, 
covered  with  soil,  su])porting  timber  and  grass,  full  of  low  passes,  suitable  for 
wagon  or  railroads,  and  emliraciiig  many  fine  agricultural  valleys.  The  Bitter 
Root  is  a  broad,  lofty  range,  continuous  and  unbroken,  with  a  few  elevated 
passes,  which  are  closed  in  winter.  It  abounds  in  rugged  spurs,  deep  gorges, 
and  tremendous  canons,  where  the  Salmon  river  runs  in  a  continuous  toiTent. 

*  The  Commissioner  of  the  General  Land  Office  estimates  the  area  at  90,932  ;  number  of 
acres,  369,529,(i0U. 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  513 

The  Boise  raiio-e  is  a  spur  or  lateral  offslioot  of  tlic  Bitter  Root.  They  are  well 
covered  with  jtiiie  suul  tir,  Avith  good  pastiu'nge  in  the  foot-hills  and  fanuinc^  lands 
in  the  small  valleys.  The  height  of  this  range  is  8,000  or  10,000  feet,  with 
some  peaks  that  attain  an  altitnde  of  near  12,000  feet. 

lliVKKs. — The  (Snake  river  and  its  branches  drain  the  whole  Tenitory,  except 
a  portion  of  about  1:^0  miles  long  and  45  wide  in  the  extreme  northern  part, 
which  is  drained  by  Clark's  fork  of  the  Columl)ia  and  its  branches,  and  an  iiTeg- 
ularly-siiaped  portion  in  the  southeastern  corner,  which  is  drained  by  Green  and 
Bear  rivers.  Bear  river  falls  into  Salt  lake,  and  Green  river  empties  into  the 
Colorado.  This  portion  of  the  Territory  has  some  farming  and  a  large  amount 
of  good  grazing  lands,  and  is  very  scantily  supplied  with  wood.  No  mines  have 
been  discovered  in  it.  The  Monnon  settlements  on  Bear  river  extend  for  a  short 
distance  into  Idaho  along  the  stage  route,  but  otherwise  this  portion  of  the  Ter- 
litory  is  uninhabited.  The  principal  l)ranches  of  the  Snake  river  in  Idaho  are 
the  Clearwater,  Salmon,  Payette,  Boise,  and  many  small  rivers  and  creeks, 
■«-hich  uniting  form  a  large  river,  with  man}^  falls  and  rapids  and  a  cun-ent  of 
great  swiftness,  which,  when  high,  carries  away  bridges  and  boats  and  renders 
crossing  it  dangerous.  It  is  navigable  to  Lewiston.  A  steamer  has  been 
recently  built  near  Fort  Boise,  but  is  not  running  at  present,  the  swiftness  of  the 
cmTent  rendering  navigation  always  difficult  and  sometimes  dangerous.  Among 
the  falls  on  this  river,  one  of  the  most  noted  is  the  American,  about  25  miles 
below  Fort  Hall,  which  has  a  perjiendicular  descent  of  60  or  70  feet,  but  is  not 
remarkable  for  the  grandeur  of  the  suiTounding  scenery. 

SnosnoxE  Falls. — The  Shoshone  falls  are  situated  abont  seven  miles  from 
Desert  station,  on  the  stage  road  from  Salt  Lake  City  to  Boise  City.  The  river 
for  many  miles,  both  above  and  below,  passes  through  a  volcanic  valley.  It 
has  cut  a  perpendicular  canon  through  the  layers  of  lava  to  the  depth  of  about 
1,000  feet.  The  canon  is  generally  about  half  a  mile  wide.  At  the  point  where 
the  falls  are  located  it  is  nearly  a  mile  w  ide.  Viewed  from  below  it  appears  cir- 
cular, like  a  vast  am]diitheatre,  with  the  falls  in  the  centre.  The  different  layers 
of  lava  resemble  seats  in  tiers  ranged  one  above  another  to  a  height  of  700  feet 
above  the  head  of  the  falls.  In  the  narrowest  part  the  water  is  200  or  300  yards 
wide.  About  400  yards  above  the  main  falls  are  live  islands,  at  nearly  equal 
intervals  across  the  river,  dividing  the  stream  into  six  parts.  As  the  water  passes 
between  the  islands  it  is  precipitated  25  or  30  feet.  The  falls  differ  essentially 
from  each  other  in  fonn,  affording  great  variety.  Below  the  islands  the  w'ater 
nnites  and  passes  in  an  unbroken  sheet  over  the  great  fall ;  the  descent  is  about 
200  feet.  The  semicircle  at  the  head  ot  the  falls  is  apparently  perfect,  and  the 
leap  as  clear  as  that  of  Niagara.  Enonnous  clouds  of  mist  and  spray  arise,  vari- 
egated with  raiid)ows.  At  the  foot  are  rushing  showers  of  spray,  from  under 
which  the  water,  beaten  into  foam,  dashes  furiously  aw-ay.  Occasionally  can  be 
Been  thnfii^h  the  Hying  mists  the  immense  sheet  of  water  Standing  out  in  Ixdd 
relief  from  the  rocks,  showing  that  with  proper  appliances  it  is  practicable  to  go 
behind,  as  at  Niagara.  A  few  hundred  yards  further  down  the  water  swings 
slowly  around  in  a  huge  whirlpool  and  then  disapjiears  in  the  black  canon  below. 
The  delicate  prismatic  cf>lors  of  the  rainbow  an<l  the  graceful  evanescent  fonns 
of  the  mist  ct)ntrast  strangely  with  the  iron-black  suri'jwie,  hard  outlines,  and 
awful  forms  of  the  overhanging  basalt.  1'he  sound  of  the  rushing  waters  resem- 
bles that  of  an  orchestra,  the  small  falls  giving  the  high  notes  and  the  great  falls 
the  bass,  producing  a  condonation  not  possi])le  to  obtain  from  a  single  undivided 
cunent.  At  Rock  Creek  station,  20  miles  distant,  it  can  be  heard  distinctly — 
not  continuously,  but  at  intei-vals,  like  the  surf.  When  the  notes  strike  in  unison 
they  can  be  heard  at  a  greater  distance.  In  the  winter  this  mist  rises  like  the 
smoke  from  a  volcano.  A  few  diminutive  pines  grow  annong  the  rocky  declivi- 
ties of  the  canon.     The  plain  pnxluces  only  sage  brush.     The  hostility  of  the 

33 


514  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

ludianfe  renders  a  visit  to  this  interesting  region  somewliat  hazardous,  unless  witli 
a  party  of  six  or  eight  men,  well  armed  and  on  the  alert. 

Salmon  Falls. — The  Salmon  falls,  al)Out  45  miles  below  the  Shoshone,  are 
some  20  feet  in  height,  and  are  remarkable  as  foniiing  an  impassable  banier  to 
tlie  progress  of  the  salmon.     Here  is  a  famous  Indian  fishery. 

Valley  or  the  Sxake. — I'he  valley  of  the  Snake  is  a  huge  crescent-shaped 
basin,  about  500  miles  long  and  250  at  its  greatest  breadth.  The  whole  interior 
is  a  bed  of  volcanic  rocks,  in  which  the  rivers  have  cut  deep  canons.  The  sm'- 
rounding  foot-hills  are  generally  covered  with  bunch  grass,  affording  excellent 
'  pasturage.  Along  the  streams  are  many  valleys,  containing  tracts  of  land  well 
adapted  to  agriculture.  Frequently  these  valleys  extend  through  the  basin  to 
the  Snake  river,  as  the  Boise,  which  is  well  cultivated,  and  contains  many  farms 
in  a  state  of  improvement  that  would  do  credit  to  older  countries.  But  the  greater 
portion  of  the  Ijasin  is  a  desert  waste  of  sand,  producing  nothing  but  sage  brash 
and  a  very  limited  amount  of  bunch  grass,  even  in  the  most  favored  localities. 
The  Indian  name  for  the  river  is  "Pohogwa,"  or  "  Sage  Bnish  river,"  the  most 
appropriate  that  could  be  imagined. 

Sage  Brush. — This  shrulj  in  general  appearance  resembles  the  cultivated 
sage,  having  the  same  form  and  color,  flower,  leaf,  and  l)ranch;  its  aroma  being 
similar  but  stronger  and  not  so  agreeable.  Its  average  height  is  about  three 
feet;  sometimes  it  attains  the  height  of  five  feet,  with  a  diameter  of  four  or  five 
inches.  The  sage  is  strictly  the  shrub  of  the  desert.  From  the  eastern  foot- 
hills of  the  Rocky  mountains  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  and  from  Mexico  to  the 
British  possessions,  it  occupies  nearly  all  lands  too  poor  and  dry  to  support  any 
other  vegetation.  It  burns  even  when  green,  with  a  quick  bright  fiame,  and  in 
many  extensive  districts  is  the  sole  fuel  of  emigrants,  miners  and  prospectors. 
In  the  Slate  Range  district,  in  the  southern  part  of  California,  it  was  used  suc- 
cessfully as  fuel  in  generating  steam  for  a  quartz-mill.  The  cost  of  gathering 
and  using  it  is  about  the  same  as  that  of  wood  in  a  moderately  wooded  district. 
Where  Indian  labor  is  available  it  is  much  cheaper.  A  smaller  variety  called 
the  white  sage  is  valuable  for  grazing  in  the  winter.  Cattle  thrive  on  it,  but  it 
imparts  a  peculiar  though  not  a  disagreeable  flavor  to  beef. 

BoiSK  Basin. — In  some  parts  of  the  Boise  basin  the  sand  is  loose,  and  the  ^\•ind 
drifting  it  over  the  i)lains  obliterates  all  traces  of  vegetation.  Whirlwinds  often 
raise  it  to  great  height,  and  when  one  of  these  dust  storms  passes  a  train  of  men 
and  animals,  the  air  is  darkened,  and  breathing  is  rendered  ditficult  until  the 
Sturm  is  over.  In  the  northeastern  part  of  the  basin,  on  the  south  side  of  Clark's 
Fork,  are  three  lone  mountains  called  the  Three  Tetons;  they  rise  ragged  and 
sharp  in  their  outlines,  and  form  a  notable  landmark  for  travellers.  North  of  Fort 
Hall  are  three  similar  peaks  called  the  Three  Buttes,  visible  for  a  great  distance. 
The  highest,  called  Cedar  Butte,  is  near  where  Lewis's  Fork  empties  into  the 
Snake.  It'is  scantily  covered  with  scrub  cedars,  and,  like  the  others,  is  undoubt- 
edly of  vocanic  origin.  When  the  whole  country  is  densely  populated  the  Snake 
river  will  be  turned  out  of  its  bed,  and'used  to  irrigate  this  basin.  In  that  way 
it  can  be  rendered  productive.  If  this  river  and  its  tributaries  should  thus  be 
directed,  navigation  would  sustain  but  little  loss,  while  agricultm-e  would  be 
greatly  benefited.  All  the  streams  emptying  into  the  Snake  some  distance 
below  the  Shoshone  falls  sink  before  they  reach  the  river,  and  passing  under  the 
strata  of  lava,  come  out  on  the  sides  of  the  Snake  canon.  Several  of  them  shoot 
out  at  such  a  height  as  to  form  beautiful  cascades;  some  at  perpendicular  leaps, 
others  in  a  succession  of  small  falls;  some  combine  falls  and  rapids,  and  assume 
the  most  beautiful  forms  of  falling  water  imaginable.  The  white  spray  and 
foam  strikingly  contrast  with  the  black  precipitous  walls  down  which  the  rushing 
torrent  ])lunges  into  the  river  below.  In  one  case  a  river  ran  over  the  surface 
until  it  had  worn  into  the  rock  acauonabout  a  half  mile  lone:.    A  beaatiiul  basin 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  515 

or  small  lake  still  irinains  wlioiv  the  water  romierly  j>asso(l  over.  In  ])i()cosf! 
of  time  it  iAiiuHl  an  inulergrouml  cliaiincl,  find  now  coincs  out  at,  tlio  loot  of  tlio 
rock  uln'io  the  falls  once  existed.  It  is  perfectly  clear,  and  altliough  tlio  defitli 
is  iiTcat,  the  trout  with  which  it  is  crowded  can  l>e  distinctly  seen  at  the  bottom. 
xVlouij  the  stream  on  each  side  of  the  canon  is  a  narrow  helt  of  tine  ^rass  and 
willows,  entirely  hid<len  from  view,  until  the  spectator  stands  on  its  banks.  The 
contrast  between  the  beautiful  verdure  here  and  the  awful  desolation  of  the 
suiToundini!;'  plain  is  very  striking.  All  over  the  vast  volcanic;  wastes  of  the 
plain  ar(>  upheaved  masses  of  lava,  with  clefts  or  fissures  in  them,  caused  by  the 
cooling  of  the  liquid  rock.  These  elevations  are  generally  of  an  oval  sliaj)e, 
with  a  cleft  in  the  centre  extending  longitudinally  from  the  summit  to  the  base. 
Others  have  two  lines  of  fractures  nearly  at  right  angles.  They  sometimes  fonn 
ridges  exceedingly  tortuous  in  their  course,  occasionally  twisted  into  a  circle. 
Their  usual  height  is  from  6  to  12  feet.  These  masses  of  rock  appear  almost 
to  defy  the  elements.  In  many  places  the  corrugations  formed  on  the  surface, 
when  the  lava  Avas  cooling,  appear  as  distinctly  as  if  they  were  formed  yesterday. 
Along  the  edges  of  the  deposit  the  lava  in  some  places  overlies  granite,  in  others 
slate  and  limestone.  The  actitm  of  the  elements  has  worn  these  strata  away, 
leaving  the  lava  ajiparently  nndecomposed,  and  elevated  above  the  rocks  that 
once  held  it  in  bounds.  A  great  ditlerence  is  found  in  the  power  of  different 
rocks  to  resit  the  action  of  the  elements.  Thus,  slate  when  soft  and  splinty  is 
less  capable  of  resistance  than  limestone,  and  this  vock  is  less  enduring  than  the 
coaj-sest  forms  of  granite.  The  hard  compact  granite  resists  much  longer  than 
the  softer  varieties;  but  all  much  less  than  the  basaltic  lava  in  this  valley.  The 
same  is  observed  in  almost  all  canons  where  there  has  been  a  lava  flow,  as  in 
Port  Noeaf  and  in  Moor's  creek.  These  facts  aflbrd  material  for  a  time  ratio. 
If  the  resisting  power  of  basalt  is  represented  by  100,  and  hard  granite  90,  soft 
granite  75,  limestone  50,  soft  slate  40,  gravel  5,  and  ordinary  soil  1,  or  if  we  adopt 
any  other  ratio  of  a  similar  kind  found  to  be  in  accordance  with  obsei-^'ation, 
we  have  a  basis  by  which  a  calculation  can  be  made  with  approximate  accuracy. 
Around  the  base  of  the  Boise  mountains  there  are  indications  of  upheaval  to 
a  certain  extent  since  the  bed  of  lava  was  formed.  The  strata  are  all  tilted  from 
the  mountains,  both  on  the  eastern  and  western  sides,  but  it  is  most  noticeable  on 
the  eastern  side.  At  the  base  of  the  Owyhee  mountains  the  proofs  of  upheaval 
are  clear.  Since  the  lava  was  formed,  many  beds  of  regular  columnar  l)asalt 
are  displaced,  and  the  columns  stand  at  diti'crent  angles,  showing  unmistakably 
the  effects  of  more  recent  con\T,ilsion.  On  Clover  creek,  a  small  tributary  of 
Snake  river,  about  40  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Malade,  are  three  volcanic 
bridges  within  a  third  of  a  mile  of  each  other.  The  stage  road  passes  over  them 
in  the  wet  (Reasons.  One  of  these  natural  bridges  is  over  a  dry  ravine,  whi(;h 
runs  into  the  creek.  There  is  an  island  at  the  point  W'here  the  stream  is  bridged. 
The  first  bridge  is  from  the  shore  to  the  island,  the  next  from  the  island  to  the 
other  side,  and  the  third  over  the  diy  ravine.  "^I'lieir  height  varies  from  three  to 
seven  feet;  the  arches  span  from  10  to  50  feet,  with  lengths  from  100  to  200  feet. 
It  is  probabh;  the  craters  or  som'ce  whence  this  vast  bed  of  lava  flowed  must  be 
near  the  upper  end  of  the  valley,  as  it  has  a  regular  descent  to  the  westward. 
But  this  is  not  certain,  for  the  inclination  may  be  the  effect  of  the  upheaval  of 
the  Rocky  mountains,  which  may  still  be  going  on.  It  is  highly  ])robable  these 
mountains  had  nearly  their  present  altitude  bel'ore  this  vast  ei-upti(.)n  of  lava  took 
place ;  after  that  their  upward  movement  may  have  continued,  which  would  account 
for  the  singularity  of  its  declination  to  tiie  west.  About  10  miles  west  from  the 
bridges  over  the  ]\Ialade  on  the  stJige  route  from  Salt  lake  to  Boise  City,  there 
is  a  circular  depression  in  the  plain  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  in  diameter. 
In  the  winter  this  is  filled  with  water,  forming  a  shallow  lake.  The  lava  around 
this  depression  is  remarkably  well  preserved,  and  all  the  wrinkles  or  corruga- 
tions caused  by  the  moving  and  cooling  of  the  smfuce  ai"e  as  distinct  as  though 


516  KESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND    TEKRITORIES 

they  were  very  recently  fonned.  By  observing  these  foldings  the  direction  in 
Avhich  the  lava  flowed  can  be  determined.  It  is  apparent  in  tliis  case  that  the 
flow  was  in  every  direction  from  the  depression,  proving  that  this  was  one  of  the 
craters  which  once  poured  its  fiery  flood  over  the  plain.  When  the  supply  from 
below  was  exhausted  the  mouth  of  the  crater  sank  back,  leaving  the  depression 
now  nearly  filled  with  alluvial  deposits.  A  close  examination  of  the  plain  would 
undouljtedly  lead  to  the  discovery  of  many  wmilar  openings,  and  by  a  careful  obser- 
vation of  the  relative  elevations  on  the  eastern  and  western  sides  of  these  craters, 
it  could  be  demonstrated  whether  the  level  of  the  country  has  been  affected  by 
upheavals  since  the  lava  bed  was  formed.  At  the  crater  examined,  the  lava  on  the 
eastern  side  appeared  to  have  run  up  hill,  while  on  the  west  the  declination 
seemed  unchanged.  The  Snake  river  has  cut  a  vast  canon  through  this  plain, 
varying  in  depth  from  100  to  1,000  feet.  The  difl"erent  strata  of  the  rock  can 
be  distinctl}'^  observed  in  this  canon.  The  length  of  time  required  by  the  river 
to  wear  away  such  an  enomious  fissure  must  have  been  great,  although  the 
descent  of  the  water  is  rapid.  The  Shoshone  Falls  probably  cut  out  the  canon 
below  it  to  the  Salmon  Falls,  a  distance  of  over  40  miles.  No  observations 
have  been  made  to  determine  the  rate  at  which  the  rock  is  worn  away  ;  but  from 
its  indestructible  nature  it  must  be  slow.  The  Boise  basin  di^^des  the  mining 
portions  of  the  Temtory  into  two  parts ;  one  south  and  one  north.  The  southern 
or  Owyhee  mines  are  in  the  Owyhee  mountains,  and  do  not  cover  near  the  extent 
of  the  northern  portion,  which  embraces  the  Boise,  Lemhi,  Salmon  river,  and 
()ro  Fino  mines. 

Towns. — Boise  City  is  situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  Boise  river,  at  the  head 
of  the  fertile  valley  of  the  same  name.  It  has  a  beautiful  location,  is  well  laid 
out,  and  contains  many  fine  buildings.  Nearly  all  the  passengers  and  supplies 
for  Boise  Basin  have  to  pass  through  it;  hence  it  is  a  great  staging  centre. 
Situated  between  the  Owyhee  and  Boise  mines,  it  will  long  be  the  commercial 
centre  of  the  southern  part  of  the  Territory.  The  climate  is  milder  than  in  the 
mines,  and  resembles  that  of  Utah.  Boise  Basin  is  about  30  miles  northeast 
from  ]3oise  City.  Its  length  is  from  15  to  IS  miles,  and  breadth  from  6  to  8. 
It  contains  a  number  of  towns  and  many  mining  districts,  and  is  the  most  popu- 
lous part  of  the  Territory.  The  present  population  is  estimated  to  be  about 
10,000.  Idaho  City,  the  largest  town,  was  recently  bm'ut;  but  has  been  partially 
rebuilt.  It  contains  probably  4,000  inhabitants.  Central  City,  Placerville,  and 
Pioneer  are  well-built  mining  towns,  containing  about  1,000  inhabitants  each. 
Salmon  river  has  been  the  scene  of  two  wild  mining  excitements.  One  in  1862, 
at  Florence,  on  Meadow  creek,  where  8,000  or  9,000  miners  collected — to  leave 
in  as  short  time  as  they  assembled.  The  town  contains  at  present  about  200 
persons.  The  other  excitement  was  at  Lemhi  this  summer,  where  7,000  t«  8,000 
miners  collected — to  scatter  as  suddenly,  except  some  800  (jr  900  Mho  had  claims, 
or  who  could  not  get  away.  The  valle\'  of  the  Clearwater  is  a  hn;ge  and  fertile 
agricultural  valley,  the  home  of  the  Nez  Perces  Indians.  Lewistown,  Oro 
Fino,  and  Elk  City  wore  once  flourishing  places;  but  now  contain  only  a  small 
population.  Lcwiston,  from  its  situation  at  the  confluence  of  the  Clearwater 
and  Snake  rivers,  the  head  of  navigation,  must  in  time  become  a  place  of  import- 
ance.    Warren's  Diggings  liave  a  considerable  mining  population. 

The  portion  of  the  Tcnitory  drained  by  Clark's  Fork  of  the  Columbia  has  a 
milder  climate  than  is  found  farther  south,  and  coiTCsponds  to  the  Yocko  and 
Bitter  Boot  valleys  in  Montana. 

There  are  three  lakes  of  considerable  size  in  Idaho,  the  Coeur  d'Aline,  about 
'24  miles  long,  and  2  or  3  wide,  very  frregular  iu  form;  the  Pen  d'Oreill^,  a  cres- 
cent-shaped lake,  about  30  miles  long,  and  5  broad;  and  the  Boatman  about  the 
same  length,  and  6  miles  wide.  The  Pen  d'Oreillo  and  Clark's  Fork  ai'c  practi- 
cable for  steamers  for  80  miles. 

The  discovery  of  the  Owyhee  mines  led  to  the  building  of  Boonville,  Kuby, 


WEST  OF  THE  KOCKY  MOUNTAINS.  517 

and  Silver  cities.  Boonville  wais  built  fust,  ami  (U'lnnided  on  placer  mines;  it  i.'^ 
now  iiearlv  deserted.  Kuby  City  was  both  a  placer  and  vein  mining  town;  at 
present  it  is  supported  by  a  few  placer  and  quartz  mills,  neither  increiising  nor 
diminishinj^  perc^-ptibly  in  jiopulatioii.  Silver  City  is  the  largest  town  in  Owyhee. 
It  is  a  picturescpie  village,  neatly  })acked  away  among  the  mountains,  in  Jordan's 
canon,  willi  mines,  quartz  mills,  hotels,  stores,  dwcdlings,  school-houses,  which 
serve  lor  churches  on  JSundays,  and  an  active  mining  population,  and  will  long 
be  a  mining  town  of  importance. 


SEt)TIO\    II. 

MINES.— DISTRICTS  AND  SYSTEMS  OF  MINING. 

The  mines  of  Idaho  occur  in  isolated  groups  separated  by  long  tracts  appar- 
ently ban-en  in  the  precious  metals.  They  may  be  divided  into  four  dis- 
trictk  On  the  north  Oro  Fino  and  Elk  City;  then  east  and  west,  the  Salmon 
river,  the  Boise  basin,  and  llocky  bar,  and  in  the  south  the  Owyhee  mines.  Gold 
was  discovered  in  this  Territory  on  the  banks  of  the  Pen  d'Oreille  river,  in  1S52, 
by  a  French  Canadian,  but  not  in  paying  quantities.  In  1860,  a  company  of 
prospectors  discovered  the  Oro  Fino  mines,  and  during  that  winter  25  men 
remained  there.  The  mines  at  Elk  City  were  soon  after  discovered.  In  the 
spring  of  1861  1,500  or  2,000  m«n  came  to  work  them.  Oro  Fino  creek  has 
paid  in  spots  for  a  distance  of  20  miles ;  Rhodes  creek  and  Canal  gulch  also 
])roved  to  be  good  localities,  and  although  no  remarkably  rich  placers  were  found 
in  1861-62  the  mines  paid  very  fairly.  Since  then  the  discovery  of  Boise  basin, 
Owyhee,  and  Mont<ana  have  drawn  the  miners  from  this  district.  Except  at 
"Wassen's  diggings,  very  little  is  done  in  this  part  of  the  country  at  present. 
When  wages  become  cheaper,  miners  may  rework  these  mines  to  advantage.* 

"Governor  D.  W.  Ballard,  in  his  annual  message  to  the  territorial  legislature  of  18l)6-'67, 
says : 

"  For  the  first  two  years  after  the  settlement  of  our  Territory,  Idaho  was  looked  upon  only 
as  a  theatre  for  speculation  and  as  a  place  for  a  temporary  rewidenco,  where,  by  enduring  the 
necessary  toil  and  privations,  Tii\nd  fortunes  might  be  acquired.  The  Territory  was  lirst 
peopled  by  those  who>;e  object  was  the  acquirement  of  a  speedy  fortune,  and  this  being  done 
to  return  either  to  the  Pacific  or  Atlantic  States  ;  but  this  feeling  is  rapidly  subsiding,  arid  the 
abundant  success  attending  both  mining  and  agricultural  pursuits  during  the  past  year  is  fast 
removing  the  prejudices  that  have  formerly  existed  against  Idaho  as  a  location  for  permanent 
residence. 

"The  most  reliable  information  on  the  subject  establishes  the  fact  that  the  yield  of  precious 
metals,  in  the  aggregate,  for  the  past  year  exceeds  thatot  any  preceding  year.  This,  in  con- 
nection with  the  fact  that  operations  in  gold  and  silver  quartz,  our  principal  source  of  mine- 
ral wealth,  are  as  yet  only  iu  embryo,  is  a  source  of  gratification  to  every  one  concerned  in 
the  future  prosperity  of  the  Territory.  The  ledges  already  opened  and  worked  uniformty 
present  indications  of  increasing  richness  ;  in  not  a  single  instance  have  there  been  indica- 
tions of  depreciation  in  the  deposits  of  mineral  wraith.  Only  a  small  proportion  of  the  gold 
and  silver  bearing  (puutz  ledges  already  discovered  and  known  to  be  rich,  some  of  them 
almost  fabulously  so,  are  as  j-et  being  worked.  From  observations  made  during  the  past 
summer  by  intelligent  and  scientific  gentlemen,  the  conclusion  is  drawn  that  these  ledges, 
which  have  yielded  so  abundantly  during  the  present  year,  willnext  your  produce  still  greater 
profits,  while  many  more  will  bo  successfully  opened,  and  their  yield  be  found  equally  abun- 
dant. 

'  'Agricultural  ])ursuits,  for  two  years  almost  totally  neglected,  have  been  prosecuted  during 
the  past  ye^r  with  the  most  gratifying  results  Many  hundreds  of  acres  in  the  JJoise  valley 
and  other  localitii-s  have  been  brougiit  under  cultivation,  and  it  is  cheering  to  karn  that  the 
yield  per  acre,  of  both  cereals  and  vegf-tables,  will  conjpare  favorably  with  tlie  yield  ot  any 
other  locality  ou  the  Pacihc  coast.  The  day  is  not  far  distant  when  but  little,  if  any,  of  the 
productions  raised  on  the  Pacific  coast  will  be  brought  over  the  Blue  mountains  for  the  sup- 
port of  tlie  people  of  Idaho  Territory.  Arrangements  for  more  extended  operations  in  both 
mining  and  agricultural  pursuits  are  already  in  progress  for  the  ensuing  y*?*''-  The  amoiuit 
of  land  cultivated  this  year  will  doubtless  be  more  than  doubled  next,  and  it  is  safe  to  esti- 
mate that  equal  success  will  attend  the  mining  interests  of  the  country.     In  connection  with 


518  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

Salmon  Ritee. — In  the  fall  of  1861  some  prospectors  discovered  tte  mines 
at  Florence,  at  the  head  of  Meadow  creek,  a  small  northern  tiilmtary  of  Salmon 
river.  The  situation  was  remarkable.  The  deposits  of  gold  were  in  a  marsh 
on  the  top  of  a  mountain,  in  the  centre  of  a  Lasin  called  Meadow  creek.  This 
singular  depression  is  nearly  circular,  about  12  miles  in  diameter,  and  surrounded 
by  high  mountains,  excejit  an  opening  to  the  south.  The  mountain  on  which  the 
mines  are  situated  is  granite,  nearly  circular  at  its  base,  rising  from  500  to  1,000 
feet,  and  about  four  miles  across.  From  its  top  a  number  of  flat,  marsh}'  ravines 
ramify  in  every  direction.  They  are  from  20  to  150  j^ards  wide,  and  filled  with 
peat  and  muck  to  depths  of  2  to  20  feet.  Under  this  was  a  stratum  of  rough 
unwashed  gravel,  which  had  evidently  never  been  much  moved.  This  contained 
the  gold  and  was  very  rich,  the  best  parts  yielding  a  dollar  to  a  panful  of  gravel. 
Very  little  black  sand  was  visible.  A  careful  search  failed  to  result  in  the  dis- 
covery of  any  quartz  or  other  vein  at  the  head  of  the  richest  ravines.  About 
1,000  claims  were  located  on  this  mountain,  and  paid  largely  for  a  short  time. 
Suddenly,  however,  they  gave  out,  and  no  more  gold  was  found.  On  Meadow 
creek  the  placers  were  more  enduring.  On  some  of  the  bars  of  Salmon  river  fair 
wages  were  made  by  the  miners,  at  the  lowest  stages  of  water  for  several  years, 
but,  unless  some  discoveries  should  be  made  hereafter,  mining  will  probably  never 
pay  permanently  in  this  part  of  the  Territory. 

A  variety  of  pine  grows  in  this  region  from  six  to  eight  inches  in  diameter  at 
the  ground,  with  a  height  of  60  to  70  feet.  So  dense  is  the  growth  that  it  is  diffi- 
cult for  a  horse  to  pass  between  the  trees,  which  are  nearly  of  the  same  height,  and 
present  the  appearance  of  a  field  of  grain.  They  are  remarkably  straight  and 
excellent  for  ])uildiug  houses  or  timbering  mines.  The  winter  of  1861  was  very 
severe  in  Florence.  For  several  months  all  supplies  were  brought  from  the 
Mountain  House,  a  distance  of  11  miles,  on  the  backs  of  men  who  travelled  on 
snowshoes. 

Lemhi. — Last  fall  some  mines  were  found  on  branches  of  Salmon  river,  not  far 
from  Fort  Lemhi.  Exaggerated  reports  of  their  richness  caused  quite  an  excite- 
ment. The  probability  is  the  reports  were  circulated  for  the  pui-j)Ose  of  sellmg 
claims.  It  is  said  one  claim  offered  for  sale  prospected  well  in  the  snow  above  the 
earth.  Accounts  are  conflicting  as  to  the  value  of  these  discoveries,  but  all  agree  thafc 
there  are  some  half-dozen  claims  on  each  of  four  or  five  gulches  which  will  pay 
well.  S(mie  assert  that  these  are  all;  otliers  maintain  that  Lemlii  abounds  in 
extensive  placers  which  will  yield  $5  per  day  to  the  hand,  though  it  is  generally 
conceded  that  they  will  not  justify  working  at  present,  except  in  a  few  of  the 
gulches. 

Boise  Basix  is  a  very  rich  placer  district,  well  timbered  with  forests  of  pine, 
and  well  supplied  with  water.  IMining  is  in  a  prosperous  condition  here ;  the 
flumes  are  substantially  built,  and  the  hydraulics  of  the  most  approved  construc- 
tion. These  mines  w(!re  discovered  in  August,  1862,  by  a  party  from  Walla- 
AValla,  under  the  direction  of  a  man  named  Grimes,  on  a  branch  of  Moore's  creek, 

the  agricultural  interests  of  the  Territory,  it  is  not  uninteresting  to  know  that  an  enterprising 
farmer  ot  Boise  valley,  during  the  past  sumaaer,  cultivated  sorghum  with  the  most  success- 
ful results. 

"  While  tlie  two  principal  pursuits  of  cur  Territory,  mining  and  agriculture,  have  thus  been 
prosecuted  with  efficient  energy  and  success,  all  other  industrial  pursuits  consequent  iipou 
them  have  been  correspoudingly  remuuenitive,  and  it  is  believed  that  there  are  more  settled 
families,  more  competent  business  men,  more  active  and  worthy  working  men,  such  as  con- 
stitute the  bone  and  sinew  of  every  country,  now  in  our  midst  who  look  upon  Idaho  as  their 
future  home  than  there  ever  have  been  at  any  previous  period. 

"The  idea  of  extravag.int  speculation  is  giving  way  to  patient  toil  and  well-regulated  econ- 
omy, and,  judging  the  future  by  the  past,  this  healthier  sentiment  on  the  part  of  the  people 
will  gradually  increase  until  Idaho  will  abound  in  all  the  fixtures  and  elements  of  a  well- 
established  and  properly  organized  community.  As  the  resources  of  the  country  are  more 
and  more  developed,  other  branches  of  industry,  hitherto  dormant,  will  doubtless  be  thrown 
open  for  the  active  and  energetic  labor  of  the  country.  All  things  considered,  the  future  of 
Idaho  may  now  be  looked  upon  with  more  confidence  than  at  any  former  period  of  her  history." 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  519 

nut  for  from  Ccntrevillo.*  In  a  fow  days  aftor  tlio  (lisrovery  Grimes  was  kitlcd 
liy  the  Indians;  liis  party  retreated  to  Walla-Walla,  wlit-re  they  procured  re-en- 
forcements, and,  returning',  built  a  fort  about  four  miles  above  Centreville.  There 
the}-  remained  thnnig-h  the  winter.  Soon  g-old  was  discovered  on  Granite  creek, 
Elk  creek,  and  Moore's  creek,  the  outlet  to  the  water  of  the  basin.  The  mines 
provinji^  extensive  and  the  gold  evenly  distributed,  a  great  number  of  claims  were 
speedily  located,  and  they  paid  well.  For  the  first  year  or  two  the  miners  did  a 
good  business.  Timber  and  water  being  abundant,  thej'  were  enabled  to  work 
their  claims  to  the  greatest  advantage.  The  country  rock  is  granite,  and  the 
gravel  containing  the  gold  has  but  little  quartz,  sand  or  bouldci's  in  it.  Gen- 
erally the  quartz  veins  in  the  basin  are  soft ;  when  detached  and  washed  down 
a  short  distance  in  the  stream,  the  (]uartz  is  finely  puK^crized  and  the  gold  liber- 
ated. In  mills  these  ores  an;  crushed  with  great  facility.  A  large  portion  of 
the  soil  is  stained  red  by  oxide  of  iron,  and  contains  a  small  amount  of  gold. 
The  beds  of  the  creeks  and  gulches  have  yielded  well,  and  have,  in  some  instances, 
been  worked  over  as  many  as  four  times.  Many  of  the  streams  have  ancient 
bods  of  gravel,  doubtless  rich,  below  the  present  beds.  On  the  sides  and  tops 
of  the  adjacent  hills  are  masses  of  clay  and  gravel  that  yield  handsomely.  In 
some  instances,  as  at  Placerville,  the  miners  come  to  a  bed  of  clay,  which  has 

"The  following;  particulars  relative  to  the  discovery  of  the  Boise  and  other  rich  mines  in 
Idalio  Territory  are  derived  from  an  article  in  the  Idaho  Times  : 

"  But  little  was  known  of  the  existing  wealth  of  southern  Idaho  until  midsummer  of  l>iG2. 
Even  Ti«i.  Goodell,  the  old  pioneer  trapper  of  Snake  river  and  its  tributaries,  %vho  has,  per- 
haps, travelled  every  trail  in  what  is  now  known  as  Boise,  Alturas,  and  Owyhee  counties,  was 
entirely  ijrnorant  of  the  existence  of  our  mineral  wealth  until  lti62,  when  the  first  prospecting^ 
party  of  six  found  their  way  up  the  canons  of  Moore's  and  Grimes's  creeks.  When  prospecting 
at  a  point  about  six  miles  above  the  place  now  known  as  Pioneer  City,  they  were  attacked  by 
Indians,  and  one  of  their  number  (Grimes)  instantly  killed.  After  hastily  burying  his  remains 
they  left  the  country,  and  reached  Walla-Walla  in  the  month  of  August.  No  time  was  lost  in 
forming  a  company  of  52  men  to  return  with  them  and  more  thoroughly  prospect  the  country. 
Many  of  those  early  pioneers  are  still  with  us  ;  among  them  we  might  mention  the  names  of 
J.  M  Moore,  John  Christie,  George  J.  Gilbert,  Mr.  Fogus,  James  Koache,  Green  and  Benja- 
min White,  R  C.  Combs,  F.  Giberson,  William  Arts,  J.  B.  Pierce,  and  J.  F.  Guiseburry. 
The  party  arrived  at  the  forks  of  Grimes's  creek,  on  the  site  now  known  as  Pioneer  City, 
about  the  JOth  of  October,  and  as  soon  as  a  substantial  fort  and  corral  for  their  horses  could 
be  built,  a  portion  of  the  company  returned  to  the  Columbia  river  for  winter's  supplies,  and 
the  remainder  built  cabins  and  prospected  during  their  absence  unmolested  by  Indians. 
Another  company  arrived  on  this  creek  about  the  ir)th  of  November,  and  located  mines  near 
the  site  of  Cemreville.  Messrs.  Miiford,  Siandifer,  Callaway,  and  Thatcher  were  with  this 
party.  The  latter  two  gentlemen  still  reside  in  that  place.  A  great  deal  of  fault  was  found 
with  the  action  of  the  first  party  in  the  number  and  size  of  the  claims  located,  hence  the  origi- 
nation of  the  name  of  Hog  'em  for  tliat  camp.  One  very  bright  morning  about  the  last  of 
October  several  of  the  Hog  'em  boys  took  a  stroll  over  the  divide  between  Grimes's  and  Elk 
creeks,  and  found  good  prospects  on  the  bar  on  which  Idaho  City  now  stands.  Returning 
to  their  camps  in  great  haste,  and  not  wishing  to  divulge  the  secret,  they  reported  having 
beat  a  hasty  retr(!at  from  some  huge  bears.  On  the  next  day  they  returned,  with  several  others 
of  their  party  who  appreciated  tlie  bear  story,  and  insisted  on  the  naming  of  the  gulch  at 
the  upper  end  of  Main  street  Bear  run,  by  which  name  it  is  still  known.  The  mines  on  Granite 
creek  were  discovered  about  the  1st  of  December  by  the  Centreville  party,  who  also  located 
the  site  of  Placerville,  which  contained  about  six  cabins  partly  completed  on  the  14th  day  of 
that  month. 

"  In  the  month  of  June,  186.3,  several  miners  found  their  way  unto  the  north  fork  of  Boiso 
river,  now  known  as  Rocky  Bar,  in  AUuras  county.  The  first  ledges  discovered  in  this  cisriip 
were  the  Ada  Elmore,  Idaho,  and  New  York,  which  class  among  the  best  ledges  in  that  camp. 

"  Owyhee  was  discovered  in  the  following  fall.  But  little  could  be  said  to  the  public  resi>ect- 
ing  this  camp,as  it«  history  is  spread  wide  and  far,  and  its  exports  of  bullion  amount  to  hundreds 
of  thousands  of  dollars  numthly.  The  mining  camps  of  Yuba  and  Banner  districts  contain  a 
great  number  of  good  ledges.  Capital  to  develop  the  mines  and  mills  to  crush  the  ore  is  all  that 
is  required  to  class  them  among  the  first  of  our  numerous  mining  camps. 

"The  mines  of  southern  Idaho  were  more  speedily  populated  and  developed  than  perhaps 
any  other  mining  country  ever  discovered  on  the  Pacific  coast.  One  year  from  the  time  the 
first  party  arrived.  5,5UU  votes  were  polled  within  the  limits  of  Idaho.  Since  that  time  it 
has  increased  and  decreased  as  is  usually  the  case,  on  account  of  the  fluctuation  of  our  popu- 
lation." 


520  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

been  mistaken  for  the  bed-rock.  On  sinking  a  shaft  through  it  a  rich  stratum 
of  giavel  is  found.  Ditches  from  a  mile  to  seven  miles  in  length  have  been  con- 
structed in  the  basin  ;  their  capacity  varying  from  300  to  3,000  inches,  costing 
from  $10,000  to  $30,000.  Like  the  small  ditches  in  California,  they  have  paid 
the  cost  of  thev!'  coni^truction  and  a  profit  to  their  owners.  Large  ditches  gen- 
erally entail  a  loss  to  their  projectors.  Where  a  large  amount  of  water  is  brought 
into  a  mining  district,  the  mine^,  unless  very  extensive,  are  soon  exhausted. 
Sixty  to  SO  cents  an  inch  are  the  rates  charged  here  for  the  use  of  water  for  24  hom's. 
In  some  of  the  hydraidic  claims  work  is  continued  day  and  night,  as  few  or  no 
companies  have  reservoirs.  Where  lumber  is  so  abundant  the  creeks  and  gulches 
ought  generally  to  pay  to  flume.  Want  of  fall  is  probably  the  reason  why  many 
of  them  have  not  been  flumed.  By  the  use  of  similar  machinery  to  that  recom- 
mended for  Alder  gulch,  in  Montana,  lluming  could  be  rendered  profitable  in 
some  cases  where  it  is  not  now  used.  Except  in  the  construction  of  flumes, 
placer  operations  in  Boise  Basin  arc  conducted  with  considerable  skill.  Quartz 
mining  has  been  conducted  with  different  degrees  of  skill,  and  with  varied  success. 
One  company  called  the  Elk  Horn  is  composed  of  four  miners,  who  all  work  in 
the  mill  and  mines,  giving  constant  personal  supei-vision  to  both,  and  although 
their  ore  is  not  richer  than  that  of  other  mines,  and  their  mill  nowise  superior  to 
tlie  ordinary  mills  of  the  countr}',  their  enterprise  has  been  uniformly  successful. 
The  Elk  Horn  is  a  small  vein  a  foot  to  eighteen  inches  in  thickness ;  the  mill 
in  the  same  ratio,  having  only  five  stamps.  This  con-e^pondence  of  the  mill  to 
the  actual  resources  of  the  mines  is  doubtless  a  prominent  cause  of  success.  The 
best  yield  which  has  been  obtained  by  the  company  from  large  amounts  of  ore 
is  #40  per  ton,  which,  with  their  economical  management,  affords  a  good  profit. 
On  Granite  creek  are  a  number  of  veins  with  quartz  so  soft  that  two-thirds  of 
the  vein  stuff  can  be  washed  in  a  common  rocker  without  any  previous  crashing. 

The  Pioneer  mine,  on  this  creek,  is  a  large  vein  of  soft  quartz,  containing  sul- 
pliurets.  An  extensive  mill  is  nearly  completed  to  work  them.  If  it  should 
prove  capable  of  extracting  the  gold  it  will  be  a  very  important  success,  as  all 
gold-bearing  veins  in  the  Territory  will  ultimately  produce  this  ore.  The  Juniata, 
about  eight  miles  northeast  from  Idaho  City,  has  been  opened  to  the  depth  of 
229  feet.     This  is  probably  the  deepest  opening  in  the  basin. 

About  25  miles  northeast  from  Idalio  City  is  a  district  which  contains  many  veins 
said  to  be  rich  in  silver.  Specimens  from  there  are  very  prolific  in  honi  and 
naby  silver,  with  occasional  particles  of  native  silver.  There  are  also  specimens 
containing  polybasite  and  argentiferous  galena.  All  the  ores  contain  gold. 
These  veins  are  j-epreseuted  as  being  large,  and  the  ores  well  diffused  through 
them.  They  are  situated  in  a  dense  forest,  and  ai"e  accessible  only  by  a  pack  train. 
When  wagon  roads  are  built  and  the  mines  proved,  it  will  probably  be  a  val- 
uable mining  district. 

Rocky  Bar. — Rocky  Bar,  on  the  Boise  river,  about  60  miles  from  Idaho  City, 
is  a  small,  compact  district,  with  many  veins  in  a  limited  compass.  It  has  been 
the  scene  of  several  enterj)rises  on  the  part  of  capitalists  from  the  eastern  States, 
who  jturchased  mines  in  this  locality.  The  imrchasers  assert  that  when  opened 
the  mines  did  not  pnn-e  good ;  the  parties  who  sold  them  maintain  that  if  the 
affairs  of  the  C()m})anies  had  been  well  managed  the  mines  would  have  been 
successful.  Neither  of  these  opinions  can  be  verified  by  practical  examples  at 
present,  although  many  mills  have  been  built  and  large  sums  of  money  expended. 

Atlanta  and  Yitba  District. — No  district  in  the  Territory  is  more  favored 
in  respect  to  the  supply  of  wood  and  water  than  the  Middle  Boise,  or  as  it  is 
now  known,  the  Atlanta  and  Yuba,  situated  in  Alturas  county,  16  miles  north- 
east of  Rocky  liar,  the  county  seat,  on  the  IMiddlo  Boise  river,  at  the  junction  of 
the  Yuba..  This  district  embraces  the  country  lying  in  the  forks  of  the  two 
streams  and  adjacent.  These  streams  afford  magnificent  water  power  for  the 
propulsion  of  machinery.     The  new  town  of  Atlanta  is  here  situated  on  a  gentle 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  521 

slope  in  tlio  valley  near  tlio  Middle  I?nise  river.  Alone:  tlio  l^fiso  of  a  lofty  moun- 
tain ealled  I^Iount  Forsyth,  burst  I'orlli  innumerable  hot  and  boiling  sprincff*, 
tlirowing  out  large  volumes  of  water,  whieh,  failing  into  the  river,  prevent  it  from 
freezing  or  closing  with  iee  during  the  most  rigorous  winter.  In  this  district  is 
the  Atlanta  Ledge,  already  traced  for  miles  in  length,  and  from  15  to  25  feet  in 
width.  Selected  ores  from  this  lode  assay  as  high  as  $11,000  per  ton  in  silver. 
In  some  places  it  is  equally  rich  in  gold.  The  Greenback  Mining  Company's 
mill,  located  at  Atlasita,  is  run  by  water  power,  and  is  now  working  rock  from 
this  lode,  although  imperfectly,  from  want  of  proper  appliances  and  skill.  The 
result,  however,  is  very  satisfactory.  In  the  immediate  vicinity,  and  running 
parallel  with  the  Atlanta,  are  other  lodes  which  are  thought  by  some  to  be  quite 
equal,  both  in  extent  and  richness;  such,  for  instance  as  the  John  Bascom  and 
Jessie  Benton,  the  Lusa,  the  Optimus,  the  Lenora  and  Silver  Moon,  the  Tahoma 
and  Greenback  on  the  Atlanta  or  northwest  side  of  the  mountain.  On  the  south 
or  Yuba  side  are  the  North  Star  and  Hard  Times,  continuations  of  the  Atlanta, 
and  the  Sophia  Tracy.  For  working  the  three  last  named  there  is  an  excellent 
20-stamp  mill,  with  modern  improvements,  now  being  put  up  on  the  ground  by 
J.  11.  O'Neal  and  assoi-iates.  Here  also  are  the  Minen'a,  Olive  Branch  and 
Confidence  lodes,  all  of  which  give  promise  of  value.  In  some  of  them  gold 
predominates,  in  others  silver.  There  are  other  claims  which  may,  wken  fmthcr 
developed,  prove  valuable;  but  as  little  work  has  yet  been  done  upon  them  no 
reliable  opinion  of  them  can  l)e  given.  Mr.  Graham,  in  co-operation  with  an  Eng- 
lish company,  has  a  20-stamp  mill  on  the  way  up  from  Saw  Francisco,  intended 
to  operate  in  this  district.  The  field  for  working  in  quartz,  and  for  exploration 
and  development  is  extensive.  The  valley  through  which  runs  the  JMiddle  Boise 
river  is  four  miles  in  length  and  three  in  width,  and  surrounded  on  nearly  all 
siiles  by  lofty,  rough  and  craggy  mountains,  some  of  which  ai^e  covered  with 
perpetual  snow.  "With  the  exception  of  this  little  valley,  and  another  of  lesser 
size  on  the  Yuba  side  of  Quartz  mountain,  the  whole  face  of  the  suiTOundiug 
coimtry  is  rough  and  mountainous,  so  that  the  building  of  roads  is  a  serious  under- 
taking, and  th(;  want  of  them  a  great  drawback  to  the  development  of  the  dis- 
trict. It  is  only  within  the  past  year  that  a  wagon  road  has  been  opened.  Here- 
tofore, all  freight  had  to  be  transported  upon  pack  animals.  From  this  cause, 
less  has  been  done  in  this  camj),  and  it  has  attracted  less  attention  than  any 
other  of  equal  value  in  the  Territory.  But  now  that  it  has  become  partially 
accessible,  and  demonstrated  its  richness  by  the  working  of  its  ores,  it  must  soon 
become  an  important  district.  The  lower  hills  in  the  vicinity  and  surrounding 
country  afibrd  fine  grazing  for  cattle,  horses  and  sheep  until  the  snows  of  winter, 
which  generally  commence  in  December  and  last  till  April.  About  20  miles 
southeast  runs  the  South  Boise  river,  bordering  on  which  are  large  bodies  of 
bottom  and  table  lands,  level  and  rich,  well  suited  for  purposes  of  agriculture. 
Oats,  wheat  and  l)arley  in  sufficient  abundance  for  the  consumption  of  a  consid- 
erable population  can  be  produced  in  this  region.  It  is  now  covered  with  a 
luxuriant  growth  of  grass,  from  which  thousands  of  tons  of  hay  may  be  cut.  The 
depredations  of  Indians  in  neighboring  districts,  the  niisnuinagenaent,  the  want 
of  skill  and  proper  knowledge  of  the  business,  and  the  inc(mq)etency  of  agents 
and  superintendents,  with  the  misapplication  of  capital,  have  done  nnu-h  to  retard 
the  development  of  the  Atlanta  mines.  The  regions  north  and  west  offer  induce- 
ments for  exploration.* 

'The  climate  is  uot  rifrorous  even  to  the  (JOth  parallel  of  north  latitude.  Loriu  Blodget  snys : 
"  To  the  ret^ion  bovdei  ing  on  the  northern  rucitic  the  finest  maritime  positions  belong  through- 
out its  entire  extent,  and  no  part  of  the  west  of  Europe  exceeds  it  in  the  advantages  of 
equable  climate,  fertile  soil,  and  commercial  accessibility  of  the  coast.  The  western  slope 
of  the  Kocky  Mountain  system  may  be  includt>d  as  a  part  of  this  maritime  region,  embracing 
an  immense  area  trom  the  4.')th  to  the  GOth  parallel,  and  five  degrees  of  longitude  in  width. 
The  cultivable  surface  of  this  district  cannot  be  much  less  than  3U0,00U  square  miles." 
(Climatology  of  the  United  States,  p.  53-J.) 


522  EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

0"WTHEE. — Gold  was  discovered  in  1863  by  a  party  under  the  leadership  of  a 
man  named  Jordan.  They  first  found  it  about  six  miles  below  Ruby  City.  As 
the  mines  were  rich,  and  wood  and  Avater  abundant,  a  large  number  of  miners 
soon  collected,  and  built  Boonville,  Ruby  and  Silver  cities.  The  placers  paid 
well  for  about  two  years ;  after  that  they  v*ere  almost  entirely  superseded  by 
vein  mining'.  Most  of  the  mines  produce  both  silver  and  gold,  though  these 
metals  var}'  greatly  in  their  relative  proportion  in  different  mines.  In  the  Ore 
Fino  gold  predominates  ;  in  the  Poonnan,  silver.  The  placer  gold  is  so  alloyed 
with  silver  as  to  be  worth  but  $10  per  ounce.  West  and  northwest  from  Silver 
City  is  a  vein  of  poiphyry,  which  f(.)rms  a  mountain  about  a  mile  and  a  half  long, 
half  a  mile  wide,  and  1,000  feet  high,  which  is  said  to  assay  $3  per  ton.  All 
the  gulches  that  head  in  this  mountain  have  been  rich  in  gold;  in  some,  hom- 
silver  has  been  found.  In  Owyhee  are  two  systems  of  veins.  One  has  a  strike 
nearly  north  and  south,  with  a  dip  almost  vertical.  To  this  system  belong  the 
Poorman  and  Whiskey  veins,  with  silver  predominating.  They  are  probably 
ohler  than  the  veins  of  the  other  system,  but  it  has  not  been  conclusively  proved. 
The  gold-bearing  S3'stem  of  veins  has  a  strike  northwest  and  southeast,  and  a 
dip  to  the  northeast.  To  this  belongs  the  Oro  Fino,  and  many  others  in  which 
gold  predominates. 

Oro  Fino. — The  Oro  Fino  is  one  of  the  most  productive  mines  in  Idaho. 
The  vein  is  large  and  well  defined,  and  the  gold  generally  diff'used  tlirough  the 
vein-stone.  It  was  discovered  in  following  up  a  placer  deposit  to  the  vein,  on 
each  side  of  the  ridges  in  which  it  is  situated.  The  first  work  done  upon  it  as  a 
quartz  mine  was  by  ]\Ioore  and  Fogus,  who  took  a  large  amount  of  ore  from  near 
tlie  surface,  which  paid  handsomely.  Becoming  involved  in  otlier  enterprises, 
they  failed,  under  a  heavy  indebtedness  to  their  workmen.  By  an  aiTangement 
with  other  creditors  the  workmen  took  the  mine,  agreeing  to  jiay  a  certain  pro- 
portion of  the  proceeds,  Moore  &  Fogus  left  it  in  bad  condition  for  working, 
and  the  men  who  undertook  to  work  it  liad  but  limited  means.  By  perseverance, 
however,  they  paid  off'  the  debt ;  then  opened  the  mine  deeper  than  it  had  been 
opened  before,  and  found  a  great  increase  in  its  richness.  The  company  is  known 
as  the  "  Oro  Fino  and  JMofning  Star."  A  recent  crushing  of  80  tons  yielded 
$160  to  the  ton;  and  it  is  probably  now  paying  the  owners  a  good  profit.  At 
a  meeting  of  the  stockholders  held  on  the  1 7th  of  Sei)teniber  last,  an  elaborate 
report  of  the  mine  was  presented,  from  which  the  following  is  extracted  . 

Work  was  commenced  in  tlie  mine  April  28th ;  since  wliich  time  two  shafts  have  been 
sunk  of  92  and  (i?  feet  respectively  ;  l,i;{4  tons  of  ore  have  been  taken  out,  and  up  to  the 
jr)th  instant  2,('r)0  tons  liad  been  crushed,  which  yielded  $;,')-l,  193.  The  total  amount  of 
expenditures  in  working-  tlie  mine,  including  repairs,  inc'dcntal  expenses,  &c.,  amounted  to 
$i4r),.5t)H,  besides  otluir  liabilities  amounting  to  l|l2,47(),  from  which  must  be  deducted  about 
$H,(KI(*,  value  of  supplies  on  hand  necessary  for  supplying  the  mill,  such  as  fuel,  quicksil- 
ver, oils,  acids,  iVc,  including  7, OUU  pounds  of  shoes  and  dies.  'J  he  company  by-laws  were 
revised  and  amended  ;  one  amendment  allows  the  trustees  to  exj)end,  for  the  benefit  of  the 
company,  any  sum  under  but  not  exceeding  f; 1 00,01)0,  instead  of  $15,000  as  heretofore. 
Altogether,  the  affairs  of  the  company  are  in  a  very  healthy  state.  'I  hey  are  now  ready  to 
slope  out  and  woik  a  new  level  of  70  feet,  and  consequently  thej'  will  take  out  much  larger 
quantities  of  ore  than  before.  A  clean-up  from  70  tons  of  ore  last  Saturday  yieldpd  §10,li27, 
and  to-morrow  they  will  probably  clean  \i\)  nearly  as  much,  which,  added  to  the  amount 
above  reported,  will  make  i\n  aggregate  yield  of  above  S?.^,!)!^)  since  the  2Hth  day  of  April, 
leaving  about  §25,000  in  the  treasury,  with  everything  in  good  condition  for  future  working. 

.  It  is  singular  that  so  few  mines  are  owned  and  worked  by  companies  of 
operative  miners,  especially  when  we  sec  how  successful  such  companies  usually 
are.  Nearly  all  placer  mines  are  worked  by  such  companies,  but  when  a  miner 
works  a  quartz  vein  he  considers  himself  relieved  from  manual  labor.  The  popu- 
lar belief  that  "a  mill  is  required  to  work  a  mine"  has  had  much  to  do  in  pre- 
venting companies  of  miners  from  working  quartz  mines.  In  all  extensive  mining 
districts  where  mills  are  numert)us,  miners  can  sell  their  ore  for  all  it  is  worth. 
Men  who  make  millino-  their  business  can  manage  it  better  than  those  who 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  523 

are  hoth  miners  and  mill-men.     "We   sec  tlie  bej^inning'  of  this  systeiy  in  Cali- 
fornia, where  the  eoneentrated  salphurets  are  sold. 

PooKMAX. — As  this  mine  is,  in  its  location,  adverse  titles,  legal  difficnlties, 
and  local  characteristics,  peculiar,  it  will  be  described  somewhat  at  length.  The 
Poorman,  or  Ilays  «It  Kay  mine,  was  discovered  in  the  summer  of  18G5,  at  or 
near  what  is  now  called  the  Discovery  shaft,  about  000  or  1,000  feet  south  from 
the  rich  chimney.  The  ore  at  this  point  was  good,  though  not  rich,  and  the  vein 
somewhat  small.  "While  the  discoverers  were  developing  their  viens,  a  pros- 
jiector  named  Peck  fomid  some  very  rich  float-rock  about  1,000  feet  south  of 
their  shaft,  and  out  of  sight  from  its  entrance.  By  a  small  amount  of  digging  i 
he  reached  the  vein,  which  he  carefully  covered  over  with  earth.  Gathering  up 
and  secreting  every  rich  piece  of  float  he  could  find,  he  went  w'here  the  discov- 
erers of  the  Hays  &:  liay  were  at  work,  and  after  ''  talking  round,"  asked  them 
where  their  claim  was  located,  and  how  far  it  extended  in  each  direction.  They 
showed  him  their  boundaries,  and  walked  directly  over  the  spot  where  Peck  had 
buried  the  vein,  and  such  a  distance  beyond  that  he  was  convinced  tlieir  claim 
embraced  the  rich  ground.  Peck  continued  to  prospect  in  that  vicinity,  and 
cautiously  conunenced  negotiations  for  the  purchase  of  the  mine.  Not  being  sat- 
isfied with  their  figures,  and  there  being  few  or  no  prospectors  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, he  left  for  a  few  days,  thinking  his  absence  would  cause  the  owners  to 
come  down  in  their  price.  Before  he  returned,  another  company  of  prospectors 
found  the  same  spot  discovered  by  Peck,  called  it  the  Poomian,  and  took  out  silver 
ore  of  great  richness.  Hays  &  Itay  claimed  the  ground,  but  as  their  vein  was 
not  uncovered  or  traced  to  the  new  opening,  the  Poorman  company  refused  to 
leave,  and  as  the  Hays  &  Ray  party  had  no  money  to  pay  for  provisions  or  tools 
■while  they  were  tracing  the  vein,  they  gave  Peck  a  share  in  it  for  tracing  it  from 
their  opening  into  the  Poorman.  The  Poorman  party,  seeing  that  they  would 
become  involved  in  litigation,  associated  their  company  with  some  capitalists  con- 
nected with  the  Oregon  Steam  Navigation  Company,  and  about  the  same  time 
'or  shortly  before  erected  a  fort  at  their  mine,  called  "  Fort  Baker,"  built  of  logs, 
with  portholes  and  other  means  of  defence  usual  in  such  cases.  The  Hays  & 
Ivay  party  had  their  work  so  nearly  completed  that  they  could  commence  suit, 
but  could  not  give  the  necessary  bonds.  Acting  by  the  advice  of  Peck,  they 
gave  a  portion  of  their  interest  to  the  New^  York  and  Owyhee  Company,  the  lat- 
ter guaranteeing  to  cany  the  suit  to  a  decision.  Before  trial  a  compromise  was 
effected,  the  New  York  and  Owyhee  party  getting  the  larger  share.  The  Poor- 
man,  at  the  stai't,  had  the  great  advantage  of  possession  of  the  paying  part  of 
the  mine.  The  strike  of  the  vein  is  nearly  due  north  and  south ;  the  dip  at  the 
surface  was  to  the  west,  but  at  the  depth  of  about  150  feet  it  changed  to  the  east, 
which  is  probably  the  pennanent  dip.  The  Silver  Cord  which  is  supposed  to  be 
on  the  same  vein,  at  a  depth  of  near  1,000  feet  below  the  Poorman,  has  also  the 
same  dip.  A  change  takes  place  in  the  character  of  the  ore,  as  is  usual  when 
the  dip  changes.  A  largo  amount  of  unnecessary  work  has  been  done  on  this 
mine;  one  shaft  sunk  near  the  office  would  have  been  all  that  was  necessary  ; 
but  when  claims  are  in  litigation  nmch  useless  work  must  be  done  to  prove  iden- 
tity of  vein.  The  vein-staff  is  soft;  a  great  portion  being  a  silicious  clay  that 
will  dissolve  in  w^ater.  Ordinarily  a  mill  will  crush  two  tons  to  the  stamp  in  24 
hours.  It  shows  considerable  free  gold.  The  sulphurct  ores  are  decomposed 
except  where  found  in  largo  mtusses.  At  the  depth  of  near  250  feet  the  great^T 
part  of  the  silver  is  in  the  fomi  of  a  chloride.  About  100  feet  from  the  surfa<e 
a  body  of  ore  showing  partially  the  planes  and  angles  of  a  crystal  of  ruby  silver 
was  found,  which  weighed  over  500  pounds.  U})on  being  fractured  it  showetl 
through  the  mass  a  uniform  crystalline  stratum.  There  is  i)rol)ably  no  sectmd 
example  of  a  similar  mass  of  crystalline  light-red  niby  silver  ore  being  taken 
from  any  mine.  A  piece  of  thib  boulder  was  sent  to  the  Paris  Exposition  this  year 
and  received  a  premium  of  a  gold  medal.     Chloride  of  silver,  or  horn-silver,  is 


'524  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

foancl  in  pure  masses,  with  crystals  of  remarliable  size  and  beauty.  It  is  said  sheets 
of  this  ore  were  ibund  more  tlian  a  foot  square  and  the  sixteenth  of  an  inch  in 
thickness,  some  weighing  many  pounds.  Black  sulphurets  of  silver,  or  silver 
glance,  is  common  in  the  mine  ;  also  palybasite.  The  above  enumerates  the  ores 
of  the  mine,  but  it  contains  also  small  amounts  of  the  various  silver-bearing 
minerals  usually  found  in  rich  silver  mines.  These  are  generally  more  interest- 
ing to  the  mineralogist  than  useful  to  the  metallurgist,  by  reason  of  theu-  small 
quantities. 

It  is  impossible  to  estimate  with  accuracy  the  amount  of  bullion  obtained 
from  the  earliest  workings  of  the  mine.  For  a  period  of  three  months,  from 
July  23,  1866,  to  October  23,  we  have  a  full  account  of  its  operations.  The 
previous  work  on  the  mines,  pending  the  litigation,  had  exposed  large  bodies  of 
ore,  but  the  working  parties  were  enjoined  from  removing  them.  The  following 
statement  lioni  the  official  report  of  Mr.  W.  D.  Walbridge,  the  special  agent  of 
the  company,  gives  a  clear  idea  of  the  operations  of  the  company  and  the  results 
obtained : 

Our  first  arrangement  of  working  the  ore  produced  was  with  the  New  York  and  Oro  Fino 
mill  and  oiu'  own  mill,  at  the  agreed  price  of  $40  per  ton  for  each  mill.  Subsequently  we 
found  that  we  were  producing  from  our  north  shaft  considerable  ore  of  a  poorer  quality, 
which  we  did  not  require  at  the  two  mills  above  named,  as  they  were  fully  employed  upon 
the  richer  silver  ore.  We  therefore  made  an  arrangement  with  the  Jackson  mill  to  work 
what  we  might  require  of  that  third-class  ore  for  $30  per  ton.  Subsequently  to  this,  having 
more  second-class  ore  than  the  first-named  two  mills  could  work.,  and  to  secure  the  use  of  a 
hoisting  engine  to  work  our  north  shaft,  we  made  an  arrangement  with  the  Ainsworth  Mill 
Comi)auy  to  use  their  engme,  by  agreeing  to  give  their  mill  all  our  surplus  ore  to  work  upon 
the  same  terms  as  was  paid  the  others.  We  were  enabled  to  produce  ore  enough  to  supply 
all  the  mills  named,  and,  by  the  several  arrangements  made,  were  enabled  to  produce  a 
much  larger  amount  of  bullion  than  we  could  have  otherwise  done,  the  great  majority  of 
our  ores  being  too  rich  for  any  of  the  mills  to  work  properly,  and  keep  nearly  up  to  their 
respective  stamping  capacity. 

We  continued  to  work  the  mine  until  October  23,  being  a  period  of  three  months  from  the 
time  it  was  opened.  During  this  time  we  mined  about  15  tons  of  first-class  selected  ore, 
which  we  determined  to  box  up  and  ship  to  New  York,  with  the  view  of  its  being  reduced 
by  the  smelting  process  to  increase  its  yield,  we  calculating  that  the  cost  of  transporting  the 
ore  would  not  be  any  more,  if  as  much,  as  it  was  costing  us  to  realize  upon  our  bullion  pro- 
duced in  Owyhee.  The  result  has  proved  that  we  have  lost  nothing  on  the  transportation, 
and  have  clearlj'  gained,  by  getting  a  much  larger  product  in  Newark  by  the  smelting  pro- 
cess than  we  could  have  got  in  our  mills  ;  the  cost  of  smelting  at  Newark,  by  Messrs.  Bal- 
bach,  Diefleiibach  &.  Company,  being  $100  per  ton  in  gold  ;  and,  as  near  as  we  can  estimate, 
the  product  in  bullion  will  be  about  §4,000  per  ton  in  gold  ;  this  is  upon  the  ground  and  dried 
ore.  Aside  from  that,  and  from  which  the  foregoing  15  tons  of  rich  ore  was  selected,  we 
mined  2,38'if  tons  second  and  third-class  ore,  which  was  crushed  and  worked  at  the  four 
mills  named — 

Producing,  in  refined  bullion $546,  C91  59 

Deduct  total  cost  of  mining,  hauling,  milling,  melting,  assaying,  and  refining, 

with  revenue  tax,  as  per  statement  marked  A,  annexed  hereto 156,  440  39 

Making  net  proceeds 390,251  20 

To  which  will  be  added  avails  of  rich  ore  now  being  reduced  at  Newark. 
This  amount  has  beeu  appropriated  as  follows : 

Reimbursed  our  company  for  expenditure  on  Hays  and  Ray  ledge $30,  000  00 

Reimburs(>d  our  company  for  cost  of  interest  in  Ilays  and  Ray  ledge 31,  000  00 

Paid  our  conii)any  from  second  proceeds  of  mine J 00. 000  00 

Paid  P.  F.  Bradford,  per  agreement 130,000  00 

Total  pay ment.s  on  account  of  compromise 29 1, 000  C»0 

Leaving  for  distribution,  pro  rata,  $90,251  20. 

The  late  date  at  which  tiio  settlement  with  Mr.  Bradford  was  effected,  with  the  seeming 
necessity  of  working  the  mine  sharply  and  vigorously  to  secure  as  large  a  result  as  possible 
before  the  time  agreed  upon  to  close  the  mine,  November  1,  placed  us  at  much  disadvantage 
as  regards  costs  of  working  and  expenses,  so  that  the  expenses  last  fall  should  not  be  con- 
sidered as  any  criterion  for  the  future. 

At  the  company's  mill  we  crushed  830  tons  of  Poorman  ore  in  a  period  of  78  week  days, 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  525' 

avorafrinc:  about  1 1}  tons  for  each  workinp;  tlav.  This  was  all  wo  could  amalfi^amate  in  our 
pans,  iliio  partly  to  a  want  of  quicksilvor,  ami  partly  to  the  very  lorip  time  required  to  work 
such  very  rieh  silver  oro.  The  want  of  (piieksilver  eaii  be  easily  and  cheaply  remedied 
another  year;  but  even  tlien  our  pans  can  hardly  more  than  amalgamate  in  24  hours  what  10 
of  our  stamps  can  crush  in  \i  to  14  hours,  which  is  barely  njoro  than  one-fourth  our  atnmp- 
ing  capacity.  Therefore  the  mill  needs  more  amalgamating  puns,  by  which  much  more  rock 
can  bi^  worked,  and  more  of  the  stamping  force  kept  employed.  Wo  received  for  crushing 
the  H-'^O  tons  of  ore,  as  per  statement  A,  $;ir),'20(),  which  somewhat  more  than  paid  the  cost; 
but  if  we  had  had  ten  more  pans  we  couM  have  worked  nearly  or  quite  three  times  the 
quantity  at  vt-ry  little  more  aggregate  expense.  In  other  words,  while  it  cost  us  nearly  $'.i5 
per  ton  to  crusii,  in  the  given  time,  fcriO  tons  of  ore,  with  sufticient  amalgamating  capacity 
uud  qni(disilver,  our  mill  could  work  '2,20t)  to  2,400  tons  of  ore,  at  a  cost  of  1 18  to  §20  per 
ton,  and  j)erhaps  less.  I  would,  therefore,  reconunend  you  to  provide  the  mill  another 
season  with  plenty  of  quicksilver,  and  about  10  more  approved  pans,  with  the  necessary 
separators,  to  properly  and  cheaply  work  the  Poorman  ore.  Quicksilver  is  always  wanted, 
because  it  is  always  wasting  by  use.  The  pans,  with  necessary  machinery  put  up,  will  cost 
about  $2(1,  (100  in  gold. 

Foreseeing,  in  July  last,  the  necessity  and  importance  of  saving  the  tailings  from  almost 
any  gold  and  silver  ore,  and  especially  from  the  Poorman  ore,  I  ordered  a  substantial  stone 
wall  built  around  our  tailing  yard,  sufficient  to  hold  securely  against  flood  about  1,500  tons. 
The  cost  was  about  $4,000,  and  it  now  contains  the  tailings  from  the  880  tons  of  ore  worked 
in  our  mill,  which  assay  about  .fioO  per  ton.  The  tailings  produced  at  the  Aiusworth  and 
Oro  Finu  mills  belonging  to  us  are  safely  cared  for,  and  assay  about  the  same.  Those  from 
the  .Jackson  mill  were  lost,  being  of  but  little  value. 

Believing  additional  settlers  in  our  mill  would  enable  us  to  save  more  sulphurets,  and 
catch  some  quicksilver  and  amalgam,  and,  as  our  amalgamating  floor  was  very  small,  I 
determined  to  build  on  the  north  side  of  the  mill  a  one-story  addition,  to  give  us  more  floor 
room,  room  for  three  settlers  and  one  Knox  pan  for  cleaning  amalgam,  a  store-room  for 
chemicals,  and  a  snuiU  room  for  assaying.  This  cost  about  $(5,000,  answers  every  purpose 
it  was  built  for  very  well,  and,  I  believe,  will  pay  its  cost  in  saving,  besides  being  a  very 
great  convenience. 

As  I  looked  upon  the  question  of  fuel  as  one  which  would  in  the  future  enter  largely  into 
the  cost  of  working  ores,  I  aimed  to  buy  all  I  could  during  the  fall,  at  low  prices,  and  le'ft 
orders  with  Mr.  Peck  to  contract  for  cutting  upon  our  land,  and  land  near  the  mill,  at  low 
rates.  We  had,  therefore,  on  hand,  at  and  near  the  mill,  on  January  HI,  1,118  cords  of 
wood,  which  had  cost  $7,300  62.  About  000  cords  of  this  is  piled  up  near  the  mill,  con- 
venient for  u.se  ;  the  balance  is  at  difl'erent  points  within  one  mile ;  all  of  it  is  so  scattered 
as  to  be  in  little  danger  from  fire.  To  be  forehanded  in  our  supply  will,  I  believe,  enable  us 
to  avail  ourselves  of  opportunities  to  get  all  we  may  need  cheaply  for  some  years. 

Not  knowing  that  working  Poorman  ore  would  require  so  large  an  amount  of  quicksilver 
a.s  was  proved  to  be  the  case,  we  found  ourselves  with  a  very  short  supply,  though  for  ordi- 
nary use  we  had  sufiicient.  I  was  therefore  compelled  to  send  to  Portland,  Oregon,  and  San 
Francisco  for  over  lOO  flasks  to  come  up  by  stages,  at  a  cost  of  $1  15  per  pound  delivered  at 
our  mill.  I  al.so  purchased  wherever  I  could  in  town,  some  of  which  cost  us  $1  40  per 
pound  ;  but  with  all  I  could  get  we  had  barely  enough  for  eftective  use  on  the  oro  we 
worked.  The  need  of  a  full  supply  was  partly  the  cause  of  the  small  quantity  of  rock 
manipulated  in  our  own  mill.  We  now  have  on  hand  ]o7^  flasks  of  quicksilver,  say  10,9% 
pounds,  valued  at  80  cents  \K'T  pound,  or  §8,788  80.  I  would  recommend  the  purchase  this 
sjjring  of  as  nuich  more,  to  go  out  by  slow  freight,  which  will  cost  from  72  to  75  cents, 
delivered  at  our  mill. 

We  had  but  onr.  retort,  which  irn fortunately  gave  way  within  two  weeks  after  we  com- 
menced working  Poorman  ore,  so  we  had  to  rent  and  use  those  of  our  neighbors,  requiring 
us  to  carry  our  amalgam  a  distance  averaging  nearly  one  mile,  and  our  bullion  the  same, 
and  to  keep  a  double  force  to  retort  the  amalgam,  working  night  and  day,  being  the  only 
way  we  could  keep  our  small  supply  of  quicksilver  at  all  in  hand.  I  at  once  ordered  two 
new  retorts  from  .San  Francisco,  but  they  \vere  so  large  and  unwieldy  that  they  had  to  come 
by  .slow  freight  via  Portland,  Oregon,  and  did  not  reach  us  until  too  lute  to  be  of  service.  I 
calculate  the  loss  to  the  company  from  the  breaking  of  that  retort,  and  having  to  replace  it, 
at  hilly  $4,000.  The  cost  of  new  ones  delivered  at  our  mill  would  not  exceed  $:>50  each  ;  I 
would  therefore  reconmiend  that  you  provide  against  the  recurrence  of  such  a  loss. 

*  »  «  ##  *  #  # 

Prior  to  the  adjustment  of  the  Poorman  controversy,  I  secured  1,000  feet  by  location,  and 
2f)6  feet  by  purchase,  of  a  newly-discovered  ledge  lying  upon  Florida  mountain,  opposite 
our  mill,  at  a  cost  of  $2, 103  5(i.  The  1 ,000  feet  is  so  much  undivided  in  a  claim  of  $1,400, 
the  balauce  is  undivided  in  the  adjoining  claim. 

In  addition  to  the  property  enumerated  in  statement  marked  B  is  the  company's  mill  prop- 
erty, which  consists  of  one  2C-stamp  mill,  with  10  Wheeler's  patent  pans;  live  separators; 
three  settlers;  one  Knox  pan;  one  office;  one  boarding-houso ;  one  barn;  one  blacksmith 
shop ;  one  retort  house :  one  temporary  carpenter's  shop,  all  very  good  for  the  several  pur- 
poses used,  the  office  affording  sleeping  room  for  two,  and  an  addition  to  the  barn  affording 


526  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

storage  room  for  iron  and  tools.     The  boardingf-house  having  heretofore  been  the  only  accom- 

medation  of  that  kind,  as  well  for  officers  and  millmeu,  and  such  guests  as  we  found  it  to 
the  company's  interest  to  lodge,  (which,  for  several  reasons,  is  in  my  opinion  inconvenient,) 
I  would  recommend  the  building  of  a  moderate  house  of  sufficient  capacity  to  accommodate 
a  few  persons,  independent  of  the  general  boarding-house. 

#*•  ■¥  #  «  *  *  # 

The  Poorman  mine  forms  at  present  the  chief  value  of  the  company's  investment.     The 
New  York  and  Owyhee  Company  now  owns  l,142i  feet  undivided  in  1,G00  of  this  mine. 

Summary  of  accounts  from  mine  hooks,  Tehruary  1,  1867,  (in  gold.) 

EXPEKDITURES. 

Construction  account — cost  of  mill $1 47, 62]  63 

Legal  expenses 44, 575  06 

Mining  cost 39,045  31 

Expense  account 22, 116  00 

Labor  account 7,  324  41 

Interest  account 6,  347  10 

$267,  029  51 

Woodlands  and  ledges. 

Noonday  ledge 5,897  61 

Eureka  ledge 2,974  .59 

Stamper  ledge 2,103  50 

Woodland  and  mill  site 1, 625  00 

12,600  70 

Houses  and  lets 2, 44 J  75 

Supplies  account 16,  308  21 

Wood  account 7, 360  62 

26, 110  58 

Bullion  account — amount  sent  to  New  York 1 33, 942  28 

Drafts  on  Cosmos  and  Oro  Fino  Companies 5, 704  69 

139, 646  97 

Due  the  company. 

Cash  in  agent's  hands 2,  318  06 

Bills  and  debts  receivable 7,496  06 

9,814  12 

455,201  SB 


RECEIPTS. 

Drafts  on  treasurer $278,760  85 

Poorman  mine 166, 888  33 

Due  by  the  company. 
Bills  and  debts  payable 9, 552  70 

45.".,  201  88 

Trial  balance  of  the  hooks  qf  the  New  York  and  OtcyJiec  Gold  and  Silver  Mining 

Company,  March,  1867. 

EXPENDITURES. 

Real  estate— cost  of  mine $1 ,  050, 000  00 

Mining  account $678,760  85 

Exchange  account 127,223  61 

Expense  account 26, 063  45 

Interest  account 2U,  832  62 

Insurance  on  mill ],  425  00 

454,  305  53 

Hays  and  Ray  ledge  account 87,  362  56 

Due  the  company. 

Cash  in  treasurer's  hands 7, 236  61 

Debts  receivable 20,  U53  33 

27, 289  94 

1,618,958  03 


WEST    OF    Tin:   ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


527 


RECEIPTS. 

Capital  stock,  amount  paid  in | 

Stock  account,  piocoeds  of  sale  of  2,500  shares 

Bullion  account,  realized  in  pold ,$]  :W,  942  28 

Premium  on  ditto 64,70i  19 

W.  D.  AValbridge,  agent,  realized  in  {rold  from  ore  in  part 4,992  02 

Premium  in  gold  from  ore  in  part 1,  888  10 

Due  by  the  company. 

Bonds 50,000  00 

Debts  payable 13,781  84 

Outstanding  draft 150  00 


, 249, 500  00 
100,000  00 


198,645  47 

6,880  72 

G3,931  84 
1,618,958  03 


A. — liesult  of  Poorman  mine  from  July  19  io  November  1,  1866. 


Kame  of  milL 

Tons 
crushed. 

Crude  bul- 
lion. 

Refinedbul- 
lion. 

Valup  of 
bullion. 

Average 
of  bullion 
per  ton. 

Remarks. 

369i 
362i 

^0 

Ovnccs. 

7.  860  20 
34,  5ii2  5.i 
121>,  542  51 
156,  394  25 

Ounces. 
7,  323  29 

33,  178  52 
116,753  91 
147,  960  17 

$25, 200  48 

62, 220  81 

203,  586  71 

255,  683  59 

$68  25 
171  88 
264  05 
301  91 

Mostly  3d  class  Kold  rock. 
87f  t'us3dcl'8,274it'ns2d. 
40  a  50  3d  cl'n,  bal.  2d  cl'a. 
All  2d  clasa  rock. 

Aiusworth  Mill 

N.  Y.  (t  Oro  Fino  Mill. 
N.Y.&  Owyhee  Mill.. 

546,  691  59 

. 

IVholc  amount  of  rock  produced  and  sent  to  mills. 

New  York  and  Oro  Fino  Gold  and  Silver  Mining  Company — accounted  for 750| 

New  York  and  Oro  Fino  Gold  and  Silver  Mining  Company — not  accounted  for 20^ 

Ainsworth  Milling  Company,  as  above 362^ 

Jackson  Mill  Company,  as  above ■ 369^ 

New  York  and  Owyhee  Gold  and  Silver  Mining  Company,  as  above 880 

Total  tons 2,  382f 

Cost  of  hauling  1,133^  tons  to  Sinker  creek,  at  $3 $9,068  00 

Cost  of  hauling  1,249^  tons  to  Jordan  creek,  at  $6  50 8,120  12 

Total  cost  of  hauling 17,188  12 

Cost  of  milling  362J  tons  at  Ainsworth  mill $13,  170  47 

Cost  of  milling  "odf  tons  at  New  York  and  Oro  Fino  mill 50,030  00 

Cost  of  milling  369^  tons  at  Jackson  mill 11,082  07 

Co.^t  of  milling  880  tons  at  New  York  and  Owyhee  Gold  and  Silver  Milling  Co.     35,200  00 
Cost  of  milling  204^  tons  at  New  York  and  Oro  Fino  mill  (balance) 820  00 

Total  cost  of  milling 90,302  54 

Total  expenses  at  mine  for  labor,  supplies,  lumber,  timber,  &c.,  less  profit  on 

money,  $3,286  99 $.38,707  74 

Cost  of  refining  and  a.ssaying  bullion 7, 250  01 

Internal  revenue  tax,  in  gold 2, 991  78 

Net  proceeds  of  2,382J  tons  of  rock  crushed $390, 251  20 

Value  of  bullion  per  ounce,  refined — Jackson  mill $3  44.  M 

Value  of  bullion  per  ounce,  refined — Ainsworth  mill 1  87.53 

Value  of  bullion  per  ounce,  refined — New  York  and  Oro  Fino  mill 1  74.38 

Value  of  bullion  per  ounce,  refined — New  York  and  Owyhee  mill 1  72.81 

Average  yield  of  all  rock  crushed 229  4 1 

Net  yield  of  all  rock  crushed  per  ton 163  34 

All  charges  for  mining,  milling,  &.C.,  per  ton 66  07 


528  RESOURCES    OF   STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

The  net  yield  of  the  ores  from  this  mine  is  wonderful,  and  is  due  mainly  to 
their  richness.  A  large  amount  is  left  in  the  tailings.  The  managers  are  per- 
fectly aware  of  this,  for  at  the  company's  mill,  by  a  well  aiTanged  s^'stem  of 
reservoirs,  all  the  tailings  are  saved,  so  that  when  the  water  leaves  the  last  reser- 
voir it  is  clear  and  can  be  used  over  again.  This  mill  is  well  constructed  and 
convenientl}'^  aiTanged.  The  ore  is  cmshed  wet  and  is  amalgamated  in  pans. 
This  collects  the  free  gold,  the  silver  from  the  chloride  of  silver,  and  a  portion 
from  the  silver  glance;  but  the  gold  from  the  sulphurets,  and  neaidy  all  the  silver 
in  combination  with  sulphur,  remain  in  the  tailings.  It  would  probably  be 
nnwise  to  remove  the  present  mill,  but  in  case  of  building  a  new  one  it  would 
be  advisable  to  have  it  as  near  the  mine  as  practicable.  Last  year  the  cost 
of  hauling  from  the  mine  to  the  mill  was  86  50  per  ton,  a  very  heavy  and 
unnecessary  expense.  The  Poorman  vein  shows  but  few  marks  of  movement  on 
its  walls,  as  might  be  infeiTcd  from  its  nearly  vertical  position.  It  is  probable 
that  no  faults  of  great  extent  will  be  met  in  working  it.  The  vein  in  the  widest 
parts  is  three  feet  or  more,  but  its  average  thickness,  from  the  shaft  of  Hays  and 
Hay,  (as  shown  in  the  lower  tunnel,)  for  a  distance  of  1,100  feet  north,  is  not 
over  a  foot.  Near  the  southern  end  of  this  tunnel  is  evidence  of  another  chini- 
ne}',  not  so  rich,  however,  as  that  in  the  Poorman  shaft.  Doubtless  many  more 
may  be  found.  These,  however,  are  the  only  chimneys  yet  developed.  The 
great  richness  of  this  vein  has  caused  its  examination  by  many  speculative  men 
who  never  saw  a  mine  before,  and  who  considered  that  each  vein  exhibited 
something  miraculous.  But  nature  operates  by  unchanging  laws,  and  if  these 
gentlemen  had  examined  other  mines  they  would  have  found  the  same  forces 
producing  the  same  effects,  and  have  saved  themselves  the  trouble  of  inventing 
useless  and  ridi^^ulous  theories. 

Flint  District. — Flint  district  is  situated  about  nine  miles  south  from  Silver 
City.  It  has  a  number  of  very  juxmiising  silver-bearing  veins,  all  containing 
nearly  the  same  varieties  of  ore.  Polj'basite,  antimonial  silver,  and  xanthacone 
are  the  principal  varieties.  All  these  require  roasting  before  they  can  be  reduced 
by  amalgamation.  A  mill  with  two  small  furnaces  has  been  recently  erected. 
The  yield  of  the  ore  has  been  very  satisfactory.  The  Hising  Star  has  been  well 
developed.  It  is  a  regular  vein  about  10  feet  thick,  and  contains  a  large  amount 
of  antimonial  silver  and  some  gold.  This  is  a  very  busy  mining  camp,  thickly 
peopled  with  miners  and  all  at  work.  The  Iowa  and  Idaho  mill,  with  a  capa- 
city of  15  tons  per  da^^,  is  nearly  completed.  This  mill  is  intended  to  work  by 
roasting  and  amalgamatitm.  In  theoiy  the  plan  is  correct.  The  mechanical 
arrangements,  either  as  they  are  or  with  some  modifications,  will  probably  be 
successful.  The  altitude  of  Flint  district  is  1,000  or  1,500  feet  less  than  that  of 
Silver  City,  and  the  climate  is  milder.  Owyhee,  l)eing  the  most  southern  mining 
region  in  Idaho,  will  receive  more  directly  the  benefits  arising  from  the  con- 
struction of  the  Central  Pacific  railroad,  which,  it  is  claimed,  will  be  only  90 
miles  in  a  direct  line  from  Silver  City.  Placer  and  vein  tinstone  have  been  found 
near  Silver  City.  The  placer  tin  was  in  small  quantities.  Only  three  veins 
containing  this  metal  have  been  found.  "Whether  the  mines  when  opened  will 
prove  valuable  is  uncertain,  but  their  appearance  encourages  a  trial. 

Climate. — The  climate  of  Idaho  is  greatly  diversified  by  the  altitude.  In 
the  mines,  which  are  generally  high  up  in  the  mountains,  the  temperature  is  of 
course  much  colder  than  in  the  valleys.  The  following  memoranda  by  jM.  M. 
Chipman,  of  Idaho,  were  kindly  furnished  by  the  observer.  Full  thermometri- 
cal  tables  by  the  same  observer  were  destroyed  by  fire  : 

Copy  of  weather  memoranda. 

Idaho  City,  July,  1867. 

On  the  morning  of  the  12th  December,  1865,  the  mercury  of  Fahrenheit's  thermometer 
stood  at  5"  below  zero.     December  lOth,  iit  half  pust  1    o'clock  a.  m.,  at  18°  below  zero; 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 


529 


but  the  temperature  grew  milder  immediately  aflerwards,  and  the  niercuiy  stood  at  G^  below 
zero  at  7  o'clock  a.  m. 

Fobninry  14,  1S67. — The  mercury  stood  at  5*^  below  zero  at  7  o'clock  a.  m.,  and  at  2"^ 
below  at  H>  p.  m. 

Ft'bruHi y  ];'>,  1867. — 5*^  below  zero  at  7  o'clock  a.  ni. 

Febniary  lO,  18(57. — 3°  below  zero  at  7  o'clock  a.  m. 

The  t'oregoiiig  memorandum  shows  the  coldest  periods  of  the  winters  of  ]865-'66  at  this 
place.  Purinp:  the  month  of  January  I  do  not  think  the  mercury  fell  below  zero.  The 
preatest  depth  of  snow  during  that  winter  occurred  about  the  1st  of  January,  at  which  time 
it  was  three  feet  deep  around  this  city,  but  much  deeper  on  the  surrounding  heights. 

April  '20,  18t>7. — I  have  had  a  fire  in  my  room  this  spring  throughout  every  day  to  this 
date,  with  the  exception  of  one  which  was  so  warm  as  to  render  it  unnecessary. 

The  winter  of  18G(3-"07  was  milder  than  any  experienced  since  the  settlement  of  this 
(Boise)  basin  until  March,  which  was  a  colder  month  than  either  of  the  three  preceding,  and 
colder  than  any  preceding  March  known  by  the  present  population. 

March  12,  lf^ti7. — The  mercury  stood  at  ]:j"  below  zero  at  7  o'clock  a.  m. 

March  13,  18G7. — J7°  below  aero  at  7  o'clock  a.  m. 

The  days  mentioned  were  by  several  degrees  the  coldest  during  the  winter,  although  there 
were  a  few  other  days  at  about  the  same  time  during  which,  in  the  latter  part  of  the  night  and 
the  early  part  of  the  morning,  the  mercury  ranged  at  from  1°  to  6*^  below  zero.  During  the 
three  winter  months  proper  the  mercury  rarely  fell  as  low  as  zero.         M.  M.  CIIIPMAN. 

QuAETZ  Mills. — Tlie  following  table  of  quartz  mills  and  water  clitches  in 
Idaho,  omitting  names  of  owners  on  account  of  the  frequent  changes  of  owner- 
ship, is  from  Langley's  Pacific  Coast- Directory.  The  increase  in  number  during 
tJie  past  year  (1867)  has  been  comparatively  small.  Notices  of  the  new  mills, 
constructed  or  in  progress,  and  of  the  ditches,  are  given  in  the  descriptions  of 
the  districts  : 

Table  of  quartz  mills,  with  their  location,  name,  cost,  date  of  erection,  number  of  stamps,  8fc. 


Name  of  milL 

Location. 

Cost 

^1 

Number  of 
stamps. 

Number  of 
arrastras. 

1 
o 

2  > 
o 

Idaho  

Alt-uroi  county. 

18C5 

12 

Steam . 
do 

G  ife  S. 

Waddingham  G   &  S.  M  Co 

do 

10 

Do 

"Waddingham  O.  &  S.  M.  Co 

Pittsburg  &  Idaho  G.  <fe  S.  M.  Co. . 

Clifden i 

40 
10 
10 
10 
20 
10 

do 

Do. 
Do 

Elk  Creek 

3 

Red  Warrior  Creek 

Do 

New  York  &  Idaho  G.  M.  Co 

do 

Steam. 
. .  do  . . . 

Do. 

Victor  Gold  &.  Silver  Mining  Co.. 

do 

Do. 

Do 

Bledsoe 

Yuba  District 

10 

Do 

Ravmonds 

BoUc  county. 

10 

8 

5 

8 

10 

10 

12 

25 

Do. 

Summit  Flat 

Do 

£lkiiorn 

Elk  Creek 1 

Water. 
. .  do  . . . 

Do 

Bibb,  Jucktion  &.  Humason 

Do. 

Idaho  City I 

Steam . 
do 

Do. 

do             .                 ' 

Do 

Collinn  i  HoHiday 

do 

Do 

Cobden  Mining  Co 

..do 

Do 

Gates 

do 

. .  do    . . 

Do. 

Van  Wvck 

5 

do 

Do 

Do. 

Lincoln 

Owyhee  county. 

20 
10 
20 
5 
8 
10 
20 
10 

Steam, 
do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Martin  &.  Co 

do 

do 

Do. 

do 

$40, 000 
75,  000 

do  ... 

Do. 

do 

do    . 

Do. 

New  York  Sc  Oro  Fino 

do 

do    .. 

Do. 

New  York  &  Owyhee 

do 

120,000 

100,000 

10,000 

..do  ... 

Do. 

do 

. . do  . . . 

Do. 

Vang  &  Morse 

do 

4 

10 
10 

5 

. .  do  . . . 

Do. 

Ainsworlh 

Sinker  Creok 

Do. 

Grenzeback 

do t 

Do. 

Webfoot 

Do. 

1                                    ..1 

34 


530  EESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

Water  ditches,  with  the  location,  source  oj"  water,  length,  S^c,  of  each. 


Name  of  ditch. 


Source  of  water. 


Miles  iQ 
length. 


Alderson 

Bannack 

Big  Ditch 

Buena  Vista 

Centerville 

Christa 

Deer  Creek  Ditck  Company's 

Goldstrup  &,  Company's 

Grimes  Creek 

More  <fc  Wilson's 

Pine  Creek , 

Placerville 

Upper  Creek , 

Wright's 


Boise  county. 


Alderson  Creek. 
Baiinack  Bar... 


Buena  Vista  Bar. 


Deer  Creek. 


Grimes'  Creek . 
More'a  Creek  . . 
Pine  Creek 


Prospecting  for  Mikes. — All  miners  are  prospectors  to  a  certain  extent,  but 
i»  all  mining  communities  on  the  Pacific  slope  there  is  a  class  whose  sole  busi- 
ness is  to  prospect  for  new  mines.  By  long  experience  these  men  acquire  a 
degree  of  sldll  that  appears  like  instinct.  As  far  as  they  can  see  a  mountain  they 
can  determine  with  great  accuracy  the  probabilities  of  its  containing  metals  of 
value.  If  the  hills  are  smooth  and  the  points  ai-e  rounded  off,  placer  gold  may 
be  found,  but  not  where  the  hills  are  bare  rock  with  sharp  angular  projections. 
If  there  is  granite,  slate,  porphyry,  or  limestone,  metalliferous  veins  may  be  found, 
but  if  the  rocks  arc  volcanic  it  is  useless  to  look  for  anything  valuable  where  it 
prevails  exclusively.  The  color  of  the  earth  is  also  an  important  consideration  ; 
over  a  metalliferous  vein  there  is  usually  a  strip  of  the  earth,  about  the  width 
of  the  vein,  different  in  color  from  the  sm'rounding  earth. 

The  outfit  for  either  quartz  or  placer  prospecting  is  the  same,  except  a  differ- 
ence in  tools.  Sometimes  a  single  man  goes,  but  usually  from  2  to  12  men  go 
in  a  company ;  the  latter  number  only  in  a  hostile  Indian  country. 

Each  man  has  a  siiddlehorse,  and  every  two  or  three  men  a  packhorse  for  the 
pm'pose  of  carrying  their  provisions,  cooking  utensils,  mining  tools,  and  blankets. 
In  very  stoniiy  weather  a  tent  is  sometimes  added  to  the  outfit. 

Cooking  utensils  consist  of  a  camp  kettle,  cofi'ee  pot,  frying  pan,  tin  cups,  and 
knives.  The  food  is  bacon,  beans,  self-iising  flom",  sugar,  and  coffee.  These, 
with  a  Colt's  revolver,  Henry  rifle,  or  a  double-barrelled  shot-gun,  constitute  tho 
armament. 

A  properly  organized  party  will  subsist  for  months  at  a  time,  and  traverse  a 
country  hundreds  of  miles  in  extent  without  ficsh  supplies. 

For  placer  prospecting  the  tools  are  a  pick,  pan,  sliovel,  and  axe.  For  quartz 
or  vein  prospecting,  a  palepick,  (a  pick  at  one  end  and  a  hammer  at  the  other,) 
shovel,  horn  spoon,  iron  mortar,  magnet  and  eyeglass,  a  few  vials  of  acids, 
ammonia  and  solution  of  salt,  and  some  mattrasses  and  test  tubes.  When  the 
prospector  can  uso  the  blowpipe  he  always  carries  it,  with  a  few  reagents.  The 
use  of  the  ])ick  and  shovel  is  too  well  known  to  require  description.  The  mor- 
tar is  used  to  reduce  the  rock  or  ore  to  a  fine  powder,  which  is  worked  in  tho 
honi  spoon  to  test  it  for  gold.  Very  minute  particles  of  gold  can  bo  detected  in 
this  manner,  especially  where  a  magnifying  glass  is  used.  The  eyeglass  is  also 
usetVd  to  examine  pieces  of  rock. 

If  the  rock  is  suspected  to  contain  silver,  it  is  heated  in  a  fire  to  as  high  a 
degree  as  the  means  in  a  wild  country  will  admit,  and  if  very  rich  the  silver 
melts  and  forms  globules,  which  adhere  to  the  rock  when  cold.  This  test  is. 
not  very  certain,  as  letul  and  antimony  behave  in  tho  same  manner  and  are  gen- 
erally associated  with  silver,  so  that  the  presence  of  one  is  a  strong  indication 
of  tho  others.     Another  method  is  to  puVerize  a  portion  of  the  rock,  boil  it  in 


WKST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  531 

a  Biattvass  wiili  iiiuir  acid,  aiul  allow  \i  to  sfttlo.  To  a  poi-tion  of  tho  clear 
liiiuov  in  a  test  tube  an  otiual  portion  of  a  strong  solution  of  common  salt  is 
added.  If  tlio  rock  contains  silver  not  in  the  form  of  a  chloride,  a  white  ])recipi- 
tiite  is  thrown  down,  which  an  exposure  to  the  li^^ht  for  a  few  hours  chanixes  to  a 
purple,  and  in  process  of  time  turns  black.  Other  metals,  as  lead,  antimony, 
and  zinc,  form  a  white  precipitate,  but  it  does  not  change  its  color  by  exposure 
to  light.  If  the  rock  contains  copper,  a  portion  of  the  solution  with  twice  the 
amount  of  annnonia  added  turns  a  deep  blue.  By  these  means  the  presence  of 
gold,  silver,  copper,  and  lead  can  be  determined,  which,  vAth  tin  and  quicksil- 
ver, constitute  the  list  of  valuable  metals  on  the  Pacific  slope.  The  l>lowpipe, 
witli  a  delicate  pair  of  scales  and  the  requisite  reagent,  will  detenninc  any  known 
mineral,  so  that  with  some  little  experience  any  compound  of  tho  valuable  metals 
can  be  easily  identified. 

After  a  paily  in  search  of  placer  mines  amves  in  a  district  reported  to  bo  rich 
aud  where  the  appearances  are  favorable,  they  select  a  camping  ground  near  some 
spring  or  stream  of  water  where  their  horses  can  get  grass,  and  proceed  to  explore 
the  country.  Smooth,  well-rounded  hills  and  beds  of  gravel,  either  near  a  stream 
or  on  the  side  r^r  top  of  a  hill,  are  good  indications ;  also  (piartz  veins  and  l)Oul- 
ders.  The  dirt  from  the  top  of  the  earth  is  tried  by  washing  in  a  pan.  If.  it 
prospects  well  the  discovery  is  made,  but  if  it  shows  nothing,  or  too  small  an 
amount  to  pay,  a  pit  is  suidv  down  until  a  change  is  observed  in  the  color  or 
consistency  of  the  gravel,  or  until  the  bed  rock  is  reached.  On  the  bars  of 
streams  the  sand  and  gravel  near  the  surface  are  finer  and  lighter  than  further  down, 
the  gold  corresponding ;  the  greatest  deposit  being  on  and  in  the  bed  rock  near 
its  surface.  In  hill  diggings  sometimes  for  the  depth  of  70  feet  the  gold  is  found 
al»ont  ecpially  distributed  the  whole  distance.  If  gold  is  found  in  sutHcient 
quantities  a  district  is  organized  and  a  town  springs  up.  But  if  after  the  sink- 
ing of  pits  no  satisfactory  prospect  i*  found,  the  party  move  on. 

Prospectors  often  move  too  soon.  When  gold  is  found  even  in  small  amounts, 
the  pits  ought  to  be  sunk  to  the  bed  rock  before  it  is  abandoned.  Frequently 
a  body  of  hard  clay  or  cement  is  taken  for  the  bed  rock,  not  only  in  prospecting 
but  in  working,  as  at  Carpentier's  bar  in  Montana.  Some  skill  is-  required  to 
select  the  best  place  to  sink  a  pit.  In  most  gulches  a  skilful  prospector  can 
select  points  in  which  if  no  gold  is  found  it  is  almost  certain  that  there  is  none 
in  it.  The  best  points  are  where  a  ridge  of  rock  extends  across  the  channel  of 
the  stream  and  where  the  gra\-el  is  shallow.  If  a  jilace  can  be  found  where  the 
gravel  and  soil  are  not  more  than  two  feet  deep  and  the  bed  rock  is  rough,  and 
on  a  thorough  prospect  entirely  across  the  channel  no  gold  is  discovered,  it  is 
exceedingly  probable  that  none  exists  in  that  gulch,  or  at  least  near  that  portion 
of  it.  In  prospecting  for  bar  claims  the  most  favorable  points  are  where  the 
stretim  now  makes  a  bend  where  it  formerly  ran  aci'oss.  What  are  called  '•  hill 
diggings "  are  beds  of  gravel  deposited  by  ancient  streams  when  the  general 
kvel  of  the  country  was  higher  than  at  present.  They  are  oft-en  found  under 
solidified  streams  of  lava,  as  under  Table  mountain  in  California. 

Perseverance  is  a  cardinal  virtue  in  a  prospector.  jMany  mines  are  said  to  be 
discovered  by  accident,  as  in  Alder  creek,  where  the  prospectors  sank  a  pit,  but 
the  j)rospects  appearing  too  small  the  party  concluded  to  abandon  it  except  one, 
who  said  he  would  try  ''  one  panful  of  dirt  more."  The  resi;lt  was  the  discov- 
ery of  the  richest  mines  in  Montana.  At  Florence,  in  Idaho,  a  man  left  in 
c^imp  while  the  rest  of  the  party  were  away  prospecting,  saw  some  gra\el  on 
the  root  of  a  tree  in  a  swamp.  Trying  a  panful  he  discovered  what  is  known 
as  the  Salmon  River  inines. 

Skill  and  experience  are  absolutely  essential  in  this  branch  of  mining.  Any 
mountain  not  volcanic  is  liable  to  contain  valuable  metalliferous  veins.  They 
rfrc  found  in  rough  and  high  mountain  cliffs,  but  apparently  not  as  abimdantly 
as  in  those  with  smooth  outlines.     Quartz  prospectors  follow  the  foot  of  a  moon- 


532  RESOUKCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

tain  range  and  examine  the  sand  and  gi'avcl  in  tlie  beds  of  streams.  These 
beds  are  generally  dry  in  summer,  which  renders  examination  comparatively 
easy.  If  the  gravel  consists  of  granite,  or  slate  with  quartz  pebbles,  they  fol- 
low up  the  stream,  breaking  open  every  piece  of  quartz  to  see  if  it  contains  any- 
thing valuable.  As  they  ascend  the  quartz  is  more  abundant  and  the  pieces 
become  larger  until  reaching  a  certain  point,  where  no  more  is  found  in  the  bed 
of  tlie  stream.  This  shows  that  the  vein  is  not  above  but  in  the  sides  of  the 
stream,  which  are  now  carefully  examined. 

The  vein  generally  crops  to  the  surface  and  is  easily  found.  But  when  it  is 
covered  with  soil,  trenches  are  run  through  it  down  to  the  bed  rock,  at  right 
angles  to  the  supposed  course  of  the  vein.  Tliis  is  not  done  unless  the  quartz 
fragments,  called  ''  float  quartz,"  are  rich  in  some  valuable  metal. 

Often,  though  man^  veins  are  found  in  one  locality',  each  sending  down  large 
quantities  of  float  quartz,  perhaps  only  one  of  them  has  rich  float.  Here  judg- 
ment is  required  to  distinguish  between  the  difierent  varieties  of  float  quartz  and 
veins  with  quai'tz  almost  exactly  alike.  The  skill  of  some  prospectors  is  won- 
derful in  determining  the  existence  and  locality  of  small  veins  covered  deep 
under  the  soil,  whose  float  quartz  is  nearly  identical  with  that  from  a  larger  vein 
close  above  it. 

In  California  nearly  all  the  gold-bearing  veins  are  quartz,  and  the  prospectors 
hardly  ever  prospect  for  anything  else  ;  but  gold  is  found  in  paying  quantities  in 
slate,  as  at  the  Harpending  mines,  near  Fulsom,  and  the  Oro  mine,  in  Bear  val- 
ley. In  Colorado  it  is  found  in  feldspai",  as  at  the  Gregory,  Bates,  and  Bobtail; 
and  in  Idaho  in  porphyr}',  as  in  the  mountains  west  from  Silver  City. 

General  Remarks  on  Peovikg  and  Working  Mines. — Vein  mining  for 
the  precious  metals  will  be  the  principal  source  from  which  they  will  be  obtained 
in  the  future.  The  product  of  placer  mines  will  grow  less  and  finally  cease, 
but  the  product  from  vein  mining  will  increase  for  an  indefinite  period.  If  the 
miners  on  the  Pacilic  slope  could  have  the  benefit  of  each  other's  experience, 
how  many  millions  it  would  save  annually  !  This  not  being  possible  without 
the  aid  of  a  national  school  of  mines,  as  recommended  elsewhere  in  this  report., 
a  few  suggestions  derived  from  experience  concerning  the  opening  and  working 
of  mines  may  not  be  inappropriate  in  view  of  the  undeveloped  wealth  of  Idaho 
and  Montana.  Rules  of  extensive  application  must  bo  veiy  general  in  their 
chai'acter,  and  as  the  conditions  under  which  each  mine  is  Avorked  necessarily 
vary,  no  general  rule  will  exactly  apply  to  every  pai'ticular  case.  General  ndes 
guard  against  loss  in  mining,  while  particular  rules  increase  the  profits.*  The 
first  quartz  raining  in  California  was  by  IMexicans  in  lS49-'50.  They  intro- 
duced the  aiTastr-a,  and  by  carefidly  assorting  the  ores  containing  fine  gold  from 
the  surface,  obtained  by  this  slow  method  very  satisfactory  results.  The  Amer- 
icans, seeing  these  results,  put  up  large  mills  capable  of  crushing  vast  quanti- 
ties, expecting  to  get  profits  in  the  ratio  of  the  amount  crushed.  Not  being 
properly  assorted,  much  of  the  rock  which  they  crushed  was  ucaidy  barren,  and 
their  machinery,  though  very  costly,  failed  to  extract  the  gold  which  the  ore 
contained.  Nearly  all  these  enterprises  resulted  in  a  loss  to  the  projectors,  and 
for  a  number  of  years  quartz  mining  was  in  great  disfavor  in  California.  A  few 
miners  continued  to  work  and  experiment  until  they  were  successful,  and  quartz 
mining  gradually  increased  in  })roductiveness  until  it  has  become  one  of  the 
most  important  interests  in  the  State. 

*  An  acquaintance  with  the  general  results  collected  and  classified  by  geology  must  be  our 
first  guide  in  the  investigation  of  mines.  This  enables  the  observer  to  j-udge  whether  a,ay 
particular  district  should,  from  the  nature  and  arrangement  of  its  rocks,  be  susceptible  of 
inchukug  within  its  bosom  beds  of  Avorkable  ores.  It  indicates,  also,  to  a  certain  degree,  f 
what  substances  may  probably  be  met  within  a  given  series  of  rocks,  and  what  locality  these  ^ 
svibutauces  will  preferably  aflect.  For  want  of  a  knowledge  of  these  facts  many  persons 
have  gone  bhudly  into -researches  equally  absurd  and  ruinous.     (Ure's  Dictionary.) 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  533 

The  same  oliaiiges  were  oI)servetl  in  the  silver-bearinir  vehis  in  Nevada.  First, 
a  seasitn  of  diseoveiy  and  excitement,  followi'd  lt\-  wikl  speculation  and  extrav- 
agant expenditure;  next  a  time  of  disapi>()intinent  and  distrust,  and  this  l>y  it 
general  season  of  prosperity  and  profit  to  all  well-condiicted  enterprises.  The 
eanu'  changes  are  taking  place  in  Colorado,  IMontana,  and  Idalw,  with  scarcely 
any  variations,  except  such  as  are  induced  by  local  causes.  It  is  desirable  to 
know  the  causes  that  act  injuriously  in  one  locality,  so  that  they  can  be  avoided 
in  another.  The  conditions  under  which  mines  are  w^orked  are  nearly  siinihir 
on  the  whole  Pacific  slope,  and  a  mode  of  working  that  is  very  defective  in  one 
locality  must  be  objectionable  in  all  others  which  it  closely  resembles,  and  a 
mode  of  working  that  experience  has  proved  to  be  best  in  a  given  district,  with 
slight  moditications,  will  be  adapted  to  other  districts  containing  similar  condi- 
tions. These  principles  underlie  all  business  transactions,  and  cannot  be  violated 
with  impunity.  One  of  the  fun<lamental  eiTors  in  mining  is  to  make  a  false  esti- 
mate of  the  value  of  the  mine,  the  amoimt  and  richness  of  the  ores,  and  the  cost 
of  extracting  them.  The  richest  mining  districts  contain  many  veins  that  will 
not  ])ay  to  work,  and  great  care  is  required  to  know  whether  a  vein  will  pay  for 
working  or  not.  Locality  is  very  important :  if  a  vein  be  situated  in  a  large 
mining  community  where  labor  and  materials  are  chea^  and  abundant,  the  cost 
of  working  will  l)e  greatly  less  than  in  new  and  unsettled  districts,  where  tlie 
pioneers  must  take  all  supplies  with  them,  or  where  freights  are  high  or  wood 
and  water  very  scarce  as  in  a  sterile  region.  In  old  and  extensive  mining  districts 
the  cost  of  opening  a  mine,  extracting  the  ore  and  reducing  it,  can  be  quite  accu- 
rately detennineil,  and  its  value  known  l>y  such  extensive  workings  as  admit  of 
no  serious  mistake,  especially  when  it  is  known  what  varieties  of  ore  can  be  profit- 
ably reduced  by  the  methods  of  reduction  practised  in  the  district.  In  new 
districts,  unless  freights  are  very  low,  mines  of  gold  and  silver  only  will  pay  to 
work,  and  they  must  be  so  rich  and  large  that  there  is  no  question  of  the  quantit}' 
and  (piality  of  their  ores.  If  a  vein  produces  rich  ore,  the  next  point  to  ascertain  is 
its  size,  and  what  quantity  of  ore  it  will  yield.  First,  thickness;  if  a  vein  is  not 
four  inches  or  more  in  thickness  its  value  is  very  doubtful,  unless  remarkably 
rich.  Very  rarely  a  vein  is  discovered  like  the  Oro,  in  Bear  valley,  Mariposa 
county,  California,  which  was  not  more  than  two  inches  thick,  but  paid  wonder- 
fully for  a  short  time,  and  then  gave  out.  No  confidence  can  be  placed  in  the 
extent  of  such  small  veins,  for  the  extent  of  a  vein  is  usually  in  the  ratio  of  its 
thickness.  In  working  a  vein  the  miner  must  make  an  opening  three  feet  wide 
to  allow  room  for  working,  and  this  space  must  be  excavated  whether  it  contains 
ore  or  not.  Veins  are  nearly  always  softer  than  their  walls,  and  can  be  exca- 
vated for  much  less  cost  than  the  same  amount  of  wall  rock.  In  the  three-feet 
vein  nothing  but  ore  is  taken  out,  but  in  a  I'our-inch  vein  only  one-ninth  is  ore, 
and  in  the  most  favorable  circumstances  the  ore  from  the  small  veins  costs  nine 
times  a-s  much  for  mining  a-s  the  larger,  and  owing  to  the  hardness  a£  the  wall 
rock,  it  may  be  20  times  more.  A  two-lwt  vein  sometimes  requii'es  heavy  tim- 
bering, but  may  l)e  worked  nearly  as  cheaj)  as  a  three-feet  one,  for  the  worthless 
rock  that  must  be  broken  can  be  used  to  secure  the  mine  instead  of  timber.  This 
is  done  in  larger  veins,  a.s  all  contain  barren  portions  A\hich  are  used  to  su[)port 
the  mine,  and  nothing  requires  more  skill  in  mining  than  to  leave  the  barren  por- 
tion, and  excavate  that  which  will  pay.  The  shafts  and  drifts  in  a  small  vein  ujust 
be  tlie  same  as  in  a  large  one,  and  the  pujnps  and  hoisting  machine  nearly  or  (juite 
as  costly.  It  is  a  general  nde  that  the  larger  the  vein,  other  things  being  equal, 
the  less  the  cost  per  ton  for  extracting  the  ore.  For  instance,  Quail  Hill,  No.  1 
mine,  in  Calaveras  county,  California.  Here  the  workmen  offered,  after  the  mine 
was  opened,  to  deliver  the  ore  at  the  mouth  of  the  vein  fur  50  cents  per  ton. 
This  vein  is  fro»i  70  to  80  feet  thick,  and  well  opened.  The  thickness  of  a  vein 
cannot  be  known  until  it  has  l)een  opened  to  a  considerable  depth,  and  trac<?d 
on  the  stuface  for  the  length  of  the  claim,  or  as  far  as  it  can  be  followed. 


534  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

Trai'ing  on  the  swrface'is  more  cheaply  done  than  sinking,  and  more  likely  to 
intersect  any  '' chimneys"  of  ore  that  may  exist  in  the  veins.  Extent  at  the 
surface  is  commonly  in  ratio  of  depth.  Where  veins  come  to  an  end  they  usually 
split  into  a  number,  of  small  seams,  which  disappear  as  they  are  followed,  but 
when  only  one  seam  is  found  the  vein  generally  continues.  It  is  important  to 
know  the  character  of  the  vein,  whether  it  is  regular  or  irregular  in  size  and 
richness,  whether  it  is  full  of  "horns"  or  afflicted  with  "faults."  Generally  the 
greater  portion  of  the  ore  is  found  in  what  are  called  "chimneys"  or  "chutes," 
as  in  the  Comstock,  which  is  rich  for  some  hundreds  of  feet  in  length,  and  then 
for  as  great  or  greater  distance  is  barren.  Chimneys  seldom  descend  at  right 
angles  to  the  strike  of  the  vein,  but  dip  lengthwise  in  it,  and  sometimes  leave 
one  claim  and  extend  into  another.  In  estimating  the  amount  of  vein  stuif  in  a 
vein,  it  is  safe  to  allow  14  cubic  feet  to  the  ton,  as  it  is  found  in  the  vein;  this 
is  more  than  the  foi'inula  in  the  V)ooks  allows,  bi:t  it  works  well  in  practice.  Thus, 
if  a  vein  is  traced  for  1,000  feet,  and  shows  an  average  thickness  of  one  foot, 
1,000  feet  deep  will  give  70,000  tons  of  vein  stuff.  Few  veins  of  this  size  pay 
to  follow  so  deep,  and  one-half  of  this  amount  of  vein-stuft'  or  35,000  tons  is  all 
that  can  1)0  relied  on.  These  calculations  in  veins  that  are  opened  are  of  great 
value  in  estimating  the  available  ore  on  hand,  but  in  unopened  mines  they  only 
give  a  vague  idea  of  what  might  be  in  them  under  the  most  favorable  circum- 
stances. In  fonner  times,  2,000  feet  was  about  the  working  depth  of  the  best 
mines ;  but  in  the  future,  owing  to  improved  methods  of  working,  the  same  class 
of  mines  ^vill  be  worked  to  a  greater  depth.  Some  veins  get  thicker  as  they 
are  followed  down ;  others  get  thinner  and  finally  disappear.  Generally  they 
are  more  liable  to  decrease  than  to  increase  in  value.  The  improvements  of  the 
present  time  in  mining  machinery  render  the  working  of  a  mine  much  more  rapid 
than  formerly,  and  as  mucli  ore  can  be  taken  from  a  mine  in  20  years  as  in  300 
when  the  ore  was  carried  on  the  backs  of  men  up  rude  ladders  out  of  the  naine. 
By  this  rapid  method  mines  can  be  worked  at  much  less  cost  than  when  tljo 
work  is  done  very  slowly;  thus  a  mine  that  contains  400,000  tons  of  ore,  at  100 
tons  per  day,  will  be  exhausted  in  about  15  years,  but  at  8  or  10  tons  per  day  it 
will  require  150  years,  and  the  cost  of  keeping  the  water  out  and  re})airing  the 
timbering  in  the  shafts  and  drifts  would  give  a  good  profit  on  any  moderate  sized 
mining  enterprise.  Neither  could  the  ancient  miners  extract  such  vast  masses  of 
ore  as  are  taken  out  of  the  Comstock,  without  leaving  a  large  portion  in  the  forai 
of  pillars  to  support  the  walls.  Proljal)ly  no  mine  was  ever  worked  under  the 
same  difiicidties  as  rapidly  and  efficiently  as  the  Comstock.  The  great  loss  has 
been  in  the  treatment  of  the  ores.  If  a  vein  is  in  a  favoralde  locality  lor  work- 
ing, has  ore  of  suflicient  richness  to  pay  when  worked  in  quantity,  has  the  proper 
thickness,  and  is  traced  on  the  swface  the  requisite  distance,  is  opened  in  depth 
so  as  to  show  a  body  of  ore,  and  has  the  same  strike,  dip,  and  general  appear- 
ance of  other  good  veins  in  that  inimediate  vicinity,  and  is  in  range  of  a  good 
mine,  there  can  be  little  doubt  of  its  value. 

Pkoduct  of  Idaho. — One  of  the  dithculties  attending  the  collection  of  relia- 
ble statistics  on  subjects  connected  with  the  value  and  yield  of  mines,  is  the 
proneness  of  interested  parties  to  furnish  exaggerated  data  for  speculative  pur- 
posc'.s.  With  the  must  earnest  desire  to  do  justice  to  individuals  and  companies 
whose  labor  and  capital  are  invested  in  mining  enterprises,  it  is  extremely  diffi- 
cult to  avoid  doing  injustice  to  the  public.  No  government  agent  can  detc-rmine 
with  certainty  how  far  the  figures  furnished  by  the  superintendents  and  subordi- 
nate officers  are  to  be  relied  upon;  and  it  is  impossible  to  verify  statements 
involving  detailed  ojierations  and  results  which  have  taken  place  bej'ond  the 
limits  of  personal  knowledge.  Thus,  the  report  of  the  New  York  and  Owyljee 
Company  for  JNiarch,  1867,  shows  a  very  favorable  condition  of  things  at  the' 
Pof>rmiui.  A  letter  from  New  York,  dated  in  October  and  published  in  a  late 
number  of  the  Oregonian,  says :    "New  York  and  Owyhee  Companies' stock, 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


535 


■vrliirli,  soon  nftcr'tho  pnrclmso  from  Br.'ulfonl  last  spring  of  the  conflicting  intci^ 
ests  in  the  Poomian  mine,  was  cuiTcntly  rated  at  SO  to  90  cents  on  tlic  dollar, 
has  ft)r  the  past  three  weeks  been  going  down.  It  was  sold  last  ■\\eek  at  25 
cents,  and  to-day  we  have  heard  it  ottered  at  10  cents.  How  long  can  this  com- 
pany atl'ord  to  ])ay  $35,000  per  annnm  in  salaries  to  a  few  oflicers  and  emi>loy<:;8 
at  this  rate  ?  Or  are  some  few  of  the  large  stockholders  and  knowing  ones  trying  a 
freezing-i>ut  process?  These  are  samples  of  the  general  condition  of  Idaho  mat- 
ters in  tliis  city.  Ex  uno  disce  omncsP  The  con-espoiident  of  the  Oregonian 
refers  to  a  similar  state  of  things  in  reference  to  the  Ynha  and  Atlanta  district. 
It  is  (piite  possible  there  is  either  prejudice  or  personal  interest  in  this  statement. 
Various  causes  already  referred  to  have  retarded  the  development  of  the  Yuba 
and  Atlanta  mines;  and  no  greater  credit  should  be  attached  to  the  assertions 
of  an  anonymous  letter-WTiter  than  to  the  reports  of  parties  known  to  be  inter- 
ested. The  richness  of  the  Poorman  mine  has  been  well  established;  whether 
it  has  been  or  now  is  remunerative  or  judiciously  managed,  the  stockholders  must 
detennine  for  themselves.  These  conflicting  statements  are  refeiTcd  to  for  the 
purpose  of  showing  how  difficult  it  is  to  avoid  eiTor.  Probably  the  best  crite- 
rion of  the  yield  of  the  Idaho  mines  in  the  aggregate  is  to  be  found  in  the  state- 
ments furnished  by  the  agent  of  Wells,  Fargo  &  Co.  at  Portland,  and  the  office 
at  San  Francisco.  From  this  source  it  ai)pears  tliat  the  shipments  to  San  Fran- 
cisco of  gold  and  silver  bullion  received  from  Idaho,  and  inclusive  of  the  receipts 
from  the  John  Day,  Powder  river,  and  Washington  Territory  placers  bordering 
on  the  Columbia,  were  as  follows  during  the  past  four  years,  viz  : 


1864. 

1865. 

1866. 

1867. 

$6,;823, 000 
1,?44,600 

$5,814,000 
1, 162, 800 

$5,  443,  000 
1, 086  600 

$4, 842,  036 
968, 406 

Add  10  per  cent.,  tbe  amount  estimated  to  be  shipped  by 
other  parties,  and  10  per  cent.,  the  probable  amount 

7,  467,  (500 
1,493,520 

6,  976,  80O 
1, 395,  360 

6,  529,  600 
1,  305,  920 

5,  810,  442 
1, 162,  088 

Add  for  amounts  probably  taken  out  of  Idaho  by  oxpreiss 

5,  974, 080, 
500,  000 

5,  .581, 440 
1,000,000 

5, 223,  680 

2,  800,  000 

4,  64S,  354 
1  SS-"*  000 

Total 

6,  474,  080 

6,581,440 

8, 023,  680 

6,  COO,  354 

It  is  not  pretended  that  these  statements  and  estimates  are  entirely  reliable, 
but  they  are  certainly  worthy  of  greater  credence  than  unsupported  individual 
assertions.  The  allowances  made  for  shipments  by  way  of  the  Hill  Beachy 
route  through  Nevada  are  deemed  amply  sufficient,  taking  into  view  that  very 
little  treasure  was  shipped  out  of  Idaho,  exce])t  by  the  way  of  Portland,  until 
the  past  year,  owing  to  Indian  depredations.  Many  believe  that  the  miners  cany 
out  of  the  Tenitory  more  of  the  precious  inefab  than  is  taken  l»y  the  express 
companies.  If  this  be  the  case  what  becomes  of  the  treasure  !  The  same  belief 
is  entertained  in  reference  to  the  product  of  3Iontana.  Where  does  the  alleged 
$40,000,000  jn-oduced  by  Idaho  and  Montana  go  to  ']  The  report  of  the  Director 
of  tlie  Mint  shows  that  the  total  deposits  of  gold  and  silver  of  domestic  }»rodue- 
tion  from  all  sources  during  the  fiscal  year  ending  June  30,  18G7,  were  as  fol- 
lows :  gold,  $30,805,748  54  ;  silver,  $1,056,(380  39  ;  total,  $31,862,429  93.  The 
amount  of  bullion  exported  from  San  Francisco  to  foreign  ports  during  the  year 
ending  December  31, 1867,  was  $18,320,818  71 ;  to  New  York,  $23,355,903  45 ; 
foreign  and  domestic,  $41,676,722  16  ;  add  estimated  home  shipments  by  United 
States  assistant  treasurer,  $6,000,000  ;  total,  $47,676,722  16.  The  total  amount 
of  bullion  upon  which  the  internal  revenue  tax  was  collected,  as  stated  by  the 
Commissioner  of  Internal  Revenue,  duiing  the  calendar  year  ending  DecemJber 
31,  1867,  was  $5S,175;047. 


536  RESOUECES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITOEIES 

If  we  allow  the  product  of  Idaho  and  Montana  to  be,  as  claimed  by  many, 
$20,000,000  each,  what  becomes  of  the  $25,000,000  of  gold  produced  by  Cali- 
foi^ia  and  the  $20,000,000  of  gold  and  silver  produced  by  Nevada,  for  nearly- 
all  oi  which  we  have  the  direct  returns  of  the  express  companies? 

I  am  inclined  to  tlte  opinion  that  the  product  of  Idaho  for  1867  is  but  little 
if  at  all  over  the  amount  stated  in  the  table  above  given ;  but  to  guard  against 
injustice  a  small  percentage  is  added,  making  the  total  product  $6,500,000.  The 
yield  of  Montana  for  1867  is  estimated  to  be  $12,000,000,  and  it  is  confidently 
believed  this  is  not  below  the  actual  amount  produced.  If  we  once  open  the 
way  to  conjecture  by  accepting  the  statement  that  the  miners  carry  away  more 
treasure  in  then-  pockets  than  the  express  companies  cany  in  their  boxes,  by 
what  means  are  we  to  arrive  at  the  amount,  or  at  what  point  is  the  limit  to  be 
fixed  ?  In  the  absence  of  proof  to  the  coutraiy  it  is  reasonable  to  suppose  that 
the  danger  of  robbery  is  too  great  to  justify  the  practice  among  miners,  as  a 
general  rule,  of  incmxing  such  extraordinary  risks  to  evade  the  payment  of  ordi- 
nary express  charges  which  secure  then-  earnings  from  the  chances  of  loss.  Small- 
amounts  doubtless  are  earned  out  in  the  pockets  of  individual  miners ;  but  none 
of  the  leading  companies  working  on  any  considerable  scale  ai'e  apt  to  incur  such 
risks.  It  is  more  than  probable  that  the  amount  supposed  to  swell  the  aggre- 
gate production  in  this  way  is  greatly  exaggerated.  On  the  other  hand  it  is  the 
interest  of  the  express  agents  to  magnify  the  dangers  of  robbeiy,  and  encourage 
the  belief  that  prudential  considerations  are  in  their  favor,  and  all  legitimate 
business  is  carried  tlu-ough  their  hands.  Between  the  efforts  of  the  company  to 
monopolize  the  canying  business,  and  the  indisposition  of  the  miners  to  incur 
expense  when  it  can  be  avoided,  it  is  difficult  to  anive  at  an  equitable  conclu- 
sion. The  estimates,  therefore,  may  be  far  from  the  truth,  but  we  must  rely 
upon  the  only  available  data  in  preference  to  mere  conjecture.  When  it  comes 
to  a  test  of  the  proportion  derived  from  each  mine,  the  statistician  is  utterly 
withowt  data,  except  such  as  he  can  obtain  from  the  officers  of  the  company. 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  537 

WASHINGTON  TERRITORY. 

SECTION    I. 

GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR. 

Until  the  recent  valuable  and  important  acquisition  of  Russian  America,  Wash- 
in<xton  Territory  was  the  extreme  northwestern  division  of  the  United  States, 
The  Cohunbia  river,  to  its  intersectit)n  by  the  4Gth  parallel  north,  and  that  paral- 
lel continued  eastward  to  its  intersection  of  the  Snake  river,  mark  the  southern 
boundary  and  separate  it  from  the  State  of  Oregon.  The  Snake  river  to  its 
conjducuce  with  the  Clearwater,  (Kooskooskie,)  and  a  line  due  north  from  the 
mouth  of  the  latter  river  to  the  49th  parallel,  l»ound  it  on  tlie  east  and  sepa- 
rate it  from  Idaho.  The  north  and  northwest  boundaries  are  deiined  by  the 
Treaty  of  Limits  between  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain,  (June  15,  1846,) 
and  are ''  westward  along  the  said  49th  parallel  of  north  latitude  to  the  middle 
of  the  channel*  which  sepai'ates  the  continent  from  Vancouver  Island,  and  thence 
southerly  through  the  middle  of  the  said  channel  and  of  Fuca's  straits  to  the 
Pacitic  ocean."  On  its  west  is  the  Pacific.  Its  area  closely  approximates  to 
70,000  scpiare  miles. 

The  special  natural  features  of  the  Territory,  common  to  it  as  a  whole,  are  the 
Cascade  range  of  mountains,  and  the  great  river  of  the  West,  the  Columbia, 
which,  first  traversing  its  whole  breadth  and  setting  off  nearly  a  third  of  its  area, 
fonns  a  southern  boundary  and  drains  the  remaining  two-thirds  of  the  Territory. 

The  Cascade  Mountains. — The  continuous  range  of  mountains  known  as 
the  Sierra  Nevada  in  California,  bears  the  name  of  Cascade  range  through 
Oregon,  Washington,  and  British  Columbia.  The  name  originates  from  the 
numerous  beautiful  cascades  which  pour  from  every  crevice,  at  every  height,  and 
sometimes  even  from  the  top  of  the  steep  bluflF  sides  of  the  gorge  in  these  moun- 
tains through  which  the  mighty  Columbia  forces  its  way  to  pom*  its  volume  of 
water  into  the  Pacific  ocean.  With  the  exception  of  the  lofty  snow-peaks, 
Ranier,  St.  Helen's,  Bakei",  and  Adams,  but  few  points  in  this  Territory  attain 
an  elevation  above  the  snow-line,  about  5,000  feet.  Estimates  have  been  made 
of  the  altitude  of  several  of  these  peaks,  but  they  have  either  diminished  in 
height  (jr  else  were  over  measured.  The  humiliation  of  the  lofty  ]\[uunt  Hood 
by  l)arometric  measurement  to  two-thirds  of  its  former  accredited  proud  altitude, 
discourages  the  assertion  of  claim  for  the  majestic  Ranier,  and  estimated  alti- 
tudes are  omitted. 

The  range  as  it  passes  through  this  Territory  bears  slightly  northwest  and 
southeast.  Several  rivers  passing  through  or  taking  their  rise  in  these  moun- 
tains atlurd  eligible  passes  for  the  construction  of  roads.  Among  these  may  be 
named  the  Skagit  River  pass,  Cady's  pass,  or  that  following  the  Skywamisii.  the 
northern  confluent  of  the  Snohomish  river  ;  the  Snoqualmie  pass,  or  that  follow- 
ing the  river  of  that  name;  Cedar  River,  or  Yakima  pass,  long  improperly  called 
Snoqualmie  pass ;  the  Xachess  jjass,  the  Nisqually,  and  tlie  Cowlitz  passes.  The 
exploration  of  several  of  these  passes  is  now  in  progress,  (fall,  1867,)  under  the 

*T\vo  channels,  the  Canal  de  Iliiro  and  Rosarlo  straits,  between  which  are  the  islands  of 
San  Juan  and  the  Archipelapfo  de  Ilaro,  separate  the  continent  from  Vancouver  island.  The 
former  is  the  boldest  and  n)ost  direct,  and  secures  what  the  treaty  evidently  intended :  instead 
of  runniiif)^  the  4'.Jth  parallel  west  to  the  ocean,  which  would  have  piven  the  south  end  of 
Vancouver  island  to  the  United  States,  the  latter  yielded  the  whole  island  to  Great  ]Jritain, 
with  the  free  navigation  of  the  straits  and  channel.  The  sovereig^nty  of  Sau  Juan  and  the 
islands  of  the  Archipelago  are  in  dispute;  the  boundary  and  area  of  Washington  Territory 
are  in  doubt,  fcjan  Juan  island  is  garrisoned  by  troops  of  both  nations,  their  jjoiice  jurisdic- 
tion extending  midway  between  the  two  camps.  The  laws  of  the  Territory  for  the  time  being 
are  suspended  in  the  islands  wfcst  of  Rosario  straits. 


538  RESOUECES    OF    STATES   AND    TEKRITOEIES 

auspices  of  the  Noi-tliem  Pacific  Railroad  Company.  The  work  has  been 
intrusted  to  the  efficient  management  of  General  James  Tilton,  ci%-il  engineer, 
formerly  surveyor  general  of  the  TciTitory,  and  a  report  of  the  results  will  be 
submitted  to  Congress  at  its  coming  session,  (winter,  1867-8.)  As  accTU'ate  instru- 
mental measurement  is  the  only  satisfactory  demon.stration  of  the  eligibility  of 
these  passes  as  lines  of  communication,  it  is  useless  to  anticipate  authentic  reports 
by  approximate  estimates.  It  is  proper,  however,  to  add  that  in  1854  a  con- 
gressional appropriation  of  820,000  was  expended  on  a  road  from  Wallula  to 
Fort  Steilacoom  ^^a  the  Nachess  pass,  and  that  quite  an  emigration  came  over  it 
that  fall,  with  wagons.  The  Indian  war  commencing  the  fall  of  the  subsequent 
year,  the  road  was  but  little  used.  Much  fallen  timber  is  now  an  obstniction  to 
its  travel,  and  the  freshets  of  some  of  the  mountain  streams  have  seriously  dam- 
aged the  river  crossings  and  the  portions  of  road  on  the  banks  of  such  rivere. 
Quite  an  appropriation  would  be  required  to  make  this  a  feasible  road.  The  alti- 
tude of  the  Snoqualmie  pass  is  3,130  feet.  The  ascent  upon  the  western  slope 
is  gradual  to  within  three  miles  of  the  summit,  when  the  rise  is  sudden  and  abrupt, 
it  being  nearly  900  feet  in  the  last  tliree  miles.  It  is  pronounced  an  admirable 
pass  for  a  wagon  road,  but  for  railroad  puii^oses  tunnelling  would  be  necessary. 
The  citizens  of  King  county,  with  commendable  enterprise,  have  opened  a  wagon 
road  from  Seattle  to  the  Yakima  valley.  A  small  appropriation  by  Congress, 
judiciotisly  expended,  would  make  this  road  a  great  and  practicable  thoroughfare 
connecting  Piiget  sound  with  the  upper  Columbia  basin,  Idaho  and  Montana 
Territories.  Parties  who  have  explored  Cady's  pass  and  the  Cowlitz  pass*  pro- 
nounce them  entirely  free  from  any  great  difficulty,  and  requiring  but  little 
expense  and  labor,  comparatively,  to  secure  good  mountain  roads.  In  all  of  these 
passes  the  approaches  are  reported  as  of  gradual  ascent,  and  the  altitudes  of  the 
summits  much  lower  than  the  surrounding  hills. 

The  Columbia  river,  which  forms  so  large  a  portion  of  the  south  lioundaiy 
of  the  Tenitory,  and  then  traverses  its  w'hole  breadth  from  south  to  north,  forms 
a  main  artery  for  travel  and  transportation  from  the  coast  to  the  great  interior, 
and  in  the  present  imdevelopcd  state  of  roads  r/a  the  Cascade  mountains,  affords 
the  channel  of  commrmication  between  the  inhabitants  separatwl  by  that  moun- 
tain chain.  It  rises  in  the  Rocky  mountains,  in  latitude  50°  20'  north,  flows 
northerly  as  high  as  52°  10',  receiving  Canoe  river,  which  has  its  sotu'ce  just 
under  the  53d  degree.  The  Columbia  then  deflects  shaqily  to  the  southward, 
expanding  in  51°  north  into  a  chain  of  small  lakes,  receiving  the  waters  of  the 
Kootenai  in  49°  30'.  Just  under  the  49th  parallel  the  Pen  d'Oreille,  the  great 
north  fork,  (Clarke's,)  pours  its  waters  into  it ;  then  flowing  southward,  the  Spokane 
river  empties  into  it,  and  it  turns  almost  due  west,  the  Okinakane  flowing  into  it 
irom  the  north.  Still  bending  slightly  south  of  west,  several  tributaries  from 
the  Cascade  mountains,  the  princii)al  of  which  are  the  IMethow,  Chelan,  Enteathwa, 
and  Wenachee,  contribute  their  waters,  when  it  turns  southeastwardly,  receives 
the  Yakima,  and  then  joins  with  its  great  southern  (Lewis)  fork,  now  called 
Snake  river.  Flowing  then  almost  due  south  a  short  distance  to  tlie  mouth  of 
the  Walla- Walla  river,  it  turns  abnrptly  to  the  west,  and  with  a  generally  west- 
erly course  flows  into  Pacific  ocean,  its  vobune  still  increasing  from  several  rivers 
from  the  south,  and  some  on  tliC  Washington  side.  The  southernmost  tributary 
of  its  most  iuqjortant  confluent,  the  Snake  river,  has  its  rise  as  low  as  latitude 

"  Since  the  preparation  of  tlie  above,  the  party  engaf!:ed  in  the  exploration  of  the  Cowlitz, 
or  Nisqutilly  pass,  have  returned.  This  pass  lies  between  and  connects  the  headwaters  of 
the  Kisqually  and  Nachess  rivers,  whiuh  flow  in  opposite  directions  from  the  immediate 
south  base  ot  Mount  Kanier.  The  altitude  of  the  summit  will  slightly  exceed  3,000  feet. 
liy  a  Hue  of  levels  run  by  s;iid  party  this  pass  can  be  surmounted  by  a  grade  of  65  feet  per 
mile,  ascending  from  the  west,  and  a  descending  grade  of  45  feet  on  the  eastern  slope.  From 
the  character  of  the  country,  the  western  ascent  can  be  so  distributed  that  in  56  miles  of  road 
a  grade  not  to  exceed  50  feet  per  mile  can  be  secured.  The  direct  line  to  the  summit,  after 
leaving  the  headwaters  of  the  Cowlitz  river,  is  but  16  or  18  miles. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  539 

41°  north.  The  easternmost  sources  of  the  two  main  forks  are  in  chiso  proxiuiity 
to  the  headwaters  of  the  ]\Iissonrl,  as  far  east  as  k)ngitn(le  111°  west  of  Green- 
wich. Its  mouth  is  in  124°  west  h)ng-itu(le.  Thus  it  will  be  seen  tliat  this  vast 
river  and  its  tril)utaries  water  and  permeate  a  region  embracing  12  degrees  of 
latitude  by  13  degrees  of  longitude.  Its  great  importance  nnist  be  conceded, 
when  the  statement  is  made  that  a  land  j)ortage  of  only  4.50  miles  is  reqtiiredto 
connect  the  navigal)le  waters  of  the  Missouri  and  Columbia  rivers. 

Navigability  of  the  Columbia. — From  the  mouth  of  the  river  to  the  lower 
Cascades,  IGO  miles,  no  obstructions  occur  to  navigation.  Sea  steamers  of  heavy 
drauo-ht  constantly  go  to  Vancouver,  115  miles  from  the  mouth.  IJy  a  portage  at 
tlie  Cascades  (the  railroad  is  six  miles  in  length)  navigation  is  o{)eu  to  the  Dalles, 
(205  miles  from  ocean.)  Several  miles  of  porta^-e  are  here  required  to  avoid 
rajiids  and  falls,*  when  good  navigation  is  again  seciu'ed  to  I'ricst's  rajiids,  (335 
miles  from  ocean.)  Three  miles  of  portage  avoids  the  dillicultics  at  I'riest's 
rapids,  when  a  stretch  of  good  navigable  water  is  secured  to  Buckland's  ra])ids, 
(451  miles  from  ocean.)  At  the  mouth  of  Methow  another  iuterrupti(>n  occurs, 
after  which  the  navigation  is  practicable- to  Kettle  falls,  a  distance  from  the 
movith  of  725  miles.  At  high  stages  of  water,  say  between  May  10  and  July 
15,  steamboats  can  ascend  from  the  portage  above  the  Dalles  to  Kettle  falls. 
The  big  bend  in  the  Columbia,  however,  extends  the  distance  so  greatly,  that 
White  Bluffs,  or  a  point  even  east  of  that,  must  be  practically  regarded  as  the 
head  of  navigation.  A  road  from  such  point  nearly  due  north  Avould  again  strike 
the  river  near  the  49th  parallel,  and  the  river  again  could  be  navigated  for  a 
distance  of  over  150  miles,  into  the  very  heart  of  the  richest  mini«ig  regions  of 
British  Columbia.  Again,  connecting  by  road  the  mouth  of  the  Walla-Walla 
river  with  the  mouth  of  the  Powder  river,  (a  tributary  of  the  Snake,)  a  reach  of 
over  100  miles  in  Snake  river  is  navigable  for  steamers. 

Natural  Divisions  of  Washington  Territoiit. — The  Cascade  moun- 
tains, varying  but  little  from  a  north  and  sontli  course,  traverse  the  Ten-itory  at 
an  average  distance  from  the  Pacific  coast  of  little  over  two  degrees  of  longi- 
tude, separating  the  Puget  Sound  basin  and  the  region  watered  by  the  lower 
Columbia  and  its  northern  tributaries  from  the  basin  of  the  Columbia  river.  The 
portion  east  of  the  Cascades  is  not  very  unequally  divided  by  the  Columbia  river. 
Three  natural  divisions  are  thus  constituted.  Western  Washington  finds  its 
synonym  in  the  Puget  sound  country.  Central  Washington  has  attained  the 
name  of  the  Yakima  Valley.  Eastern  AVashington  is  variously  termed  the  Upper 
Country,  sometimes  the  Walla-Walla  Valley,  and  Spokane  Plains  ;  frequently 
*'Colville"  is  made  to  embrace  a  large  section  of  country. t 

Western  Washington  includes  the  Puget  Sound  basin,  the  valley  of  the 
Chehalis,  the  basin  of  Shoalwater  bay,  and  the  country  drained  by  the  loAver 
Columbia  and  its  northern  tributai-ies,  the  principal  of  which  is  the  Cowlitz, 
Eidges,  spurs  of  the  Cascade  and  Coast  ranges  of  movmtains,  clearly  demarcate 
these  several  sul)-di visions,  and  a  diversity  of  soil,  products,  and  geological  con- 
formation ascribe  distinctive  features  to  each. 

And  first  of  the  great  inland  sea,  Puget  sonnd,  which,  though  properly  the 
smallest  sub-division  of  these  waters,  has  become  the  general  cognomen  of  that 
vast  ramification  of  waters  to  which  have  been  given,  by  illustrious  navigators, 
the  names  of  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  Admiralty  inlet,  Hood's  canal,  and  Puget 
sound,  together  with  the  almost  innumerable  bays,  harliors,  and  inlets,  each 
enjoying  a  septu'ate  name,  and  many  of  which  would  afford  commodious  and 
adequate  harbor  for  the  combined  navies  of  the  world.     Admiral  Charles  Wilkes, 

*  The  Oregon  Steam  Navigation  Company  have  in  successful  operation  a  railroad  from 
Dalles  to  Celilo,  lo  miles  iu  length,  avoiding  the  rapids  and  Calls,  though  a  much  less  portage, 
if  broken,  was  requisite. 

t  See  Navigable  Rivers  of  Oregon, 


540 


RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND   TERRITORTES 


(then  lieutenant  United  States  navy,)  in  1841,  in  tlie  valuable  nan-ative  of  tbe 
United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  of  wLich  he  was  commander,  after  a  minute 
description  of  these  waters,  thus  sums  up : 

Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  of  these  wafers  and  their  safety.  Not  a  shoal  exists  within 
the  Straits  of  Juau  de  Fuca,  Admiralty  inlet,  or  Hood's  canal,  that  can  in  any  way  interrupt 
their  navigation  by  a  74-gun  ship.  1  venture  nothing  in  saying  there  is  no  country  in  the 
■world  that  possesses  M'aters  equal  to  these.  They  cover  an  area  of  about  2,000  square  miles. 
The  shores  of  all  these  inlets  and  bays  are  remarkably  bold  ;  so  much  so  that  in  many  places 
a  ship's  side  would  strike  the  shore  before  the  keel  would  touch  the  ground.  The  country 
by  which  these  waters  are  surrounded  is  remarkably  salubrious,  and  offers  every  advantage 
for  the  accommodation  of  a  vast  commercial  and  military  marine,  with  convenience  for  docks, 
and  a  great  many  sites  for  towns  and  cities  ;  at  all  times  M'ell  supplied  with  water,  and 
capable  of  being  provided  with  everything  by  the  surrounding  countiy,  which  is  well  adapted 
for  agriculture. 

The  Straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca  are  95  miles  in  length,  and  have  an  average  width  of  11 
miles.  At  the  entrance  (eight  miles  in  width)  no  danger  exists,  and  it  may  be  safely  navi- 
gated throughout.  No  part  of  the  world  affords  finer  inlaud  sounds,  or  a  greater  number  of 
harbors,  than  are  found  within  the  Straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  capable  of  receiving  the  largest 
class  of  vessels,  and  without  a  danger  in  them  which  is  not  visible.  From  the  rise  and  fall 
of  the  tides  (18  feet)  every  facility  is  offered  for  the  erection  of  works  for  a  great  maritime 
nation.     The  country  also  affords  as  man}'  sites  for  water-power  as  any  other. 

To  furnish  a  better  idea  of  these  waters,  and  their  extent,  we  append  a  tabular 
statement  of  the  shwe  line,  prepared  by  James  S.  Lawson,  esq.,  the  efficient 
assistant  of  the  United  States  Coast  Survey,  now  employed  in  making  a  sm-vey 
thereof: 

SJwre-line  of  the  Straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  Admiralty  inlet,  Puget  sound.  Hood's 
canal,  SjC,  d^.,   Washington  Territory. 


I.   STRAITS  OF  JUAN  DE  FUCA. 

From  Cape  Flattery  to  Pt.  Partridge, 
Pt.  Wilson 


Miles. 
161 


II.   ROSARIO     STRAITS,     CANAL    DE    HARO, 
GULF  OF  GEORGIA,  ETC. 

East  side  of  Whidby's  island 79.  0 

West  side  of  Whidby's  island,  Pt.  Par- 
tridge to  Deception  Pass 14.  0 

McDonough's  island 41.0 

Main  shore,  Pt.  Gardner  to  49 tb  parallel  128. 5 

I'idalgo  island 56.0 

Allan's  and  BaiTOw's  islands 7. 5 

Gucme's  island 16. 5 

Cypress,  Sinclair,  Vendovia  &.  Jack's 

islands 26.0 

Lummi  and  Eliza  islands 25.0 

Lopez  island 34. 5 

Decatur  island 11.0 

James'  island 4.5 

IJlakely  island 9. 5 

Frost  island 1.5 

San  Juan  island 40.  0 

Shaw's  island lli.  0 

Obstruction  island 2. 7 

Orcas  island 57.  0 

Jones'  island 3.  8 

Henry  island 5. 8 

Speeden  island - 5.7 

John's  island 4.0 

Stuart's  island 6.  0 

Waldron  island 8. 5 

Various  small  islands 26.  0 


627.  0 


ni.   AD.MIRALTY  INLET. 

(Commencing  at  line  Pt.  Partridge,  Pt.  Wil- 
son to  Puget  sound.) 

Mileg. 

Pt.  Defiance  to  Possession  sound 67.  5 

Possession  sound  to  Pt.  Partridge 34.5 

Blake  island 4  0 

Gig  Harbor  to  Foul  weather  Bluff ....   102. 0 

Bainbridge  island 31.0 

Port  Ludlow  to  Pt.  Wilson 48. 0 

Vashou  island 47.  0 


334.0 


IV.  PUGET  SOUND. 

(Commencing  at  line  joining  Pt.  Defiance  and 

Gig  Harbor — embracing  all  south.) 
Main  shore,  east  side,  Pt.  Defiance  to 

Olympia 49.0 

Main  shore,  west  side,  Gig  Harbor  to 

Olympia 168.0 

Day's  island 1.3 

Hope  island 1.3 

10.5 

Herron  island 3.  0 

Stretch 4.0 

Anderson 15.5 

McNeil 10.4 

Kitson 3. 0 

Fox  island 11.5 

AUshouse  island 2.5 


280.0 


V.   hood's  CANAL 192.0 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  541 

RECAPITl'LATION, 

I.  Straits  of  Junnde  Fuca 161.0 

II.  Rosario  straits,  Canal  de  Haro,  Gulf  of  Georgia,  &c 627.0 

III.  Admiralty  iulet 334.0 

IV.  Tugft  sound 280.0 

V.  Hood's  canal 192.0 

Total  shore  line I,.'i94.  0 


Bats  A^^3  IIakbors. — Xcali  bay  is  just  inside  of  Cape  Flatteiy,  a  harbor 
aftbvding  partial  shelter  for  vessels.  The  anchorage  is  good,  but  there  is  no  pro- 
tection from  northwest  -winds.  It  is  a  mere  indentation  of  the  coast,  and  was 
called  by  the  early  fur  traders  Poverty  Cove.  It  is  now  universally  called  by 
its  original  Indian  name.  About  25  miles  east  of  Cape  Flattery  is  Callam  bay, 
where  a  California  company  is  now  engaged  in  taking  out  coal.  Port  Angeles, 
farther  east,  was  the  site  for  a  while  of  the  custom-house  of  this  district ;  an  admi- 
rable harbor  after  a  vessel  got  into  it,  and  difficult  to  leave  without  wind,  tide, 
and  other  favorable  circumstances.  It  lies  immediately  opposite  to  Victoria,  and 
not  very  distant  from  the  entrance  of  the  strait — two  circumstances  supposed  to 
control  the  location  of  custom-houses,  regardless  entirely  of  the  interests  of  ship- 
ping. A  small  town  grew  up  there,  but  it  has  not  improved  much  since  the  cus- 
tom-house was  retransfeiTcd  to  its  former  location  at  Port  Townsend. 

Port  Discovery,  Port  Townsend,  Poit  Ludlow,  Port  J\Iadison,  Port  Gamble, 
Port  Blakeh',  Dwamish  or  Elliott's  bay,  Bellingham  bay,  and  man}-  others, 
each  worthy  of  distinct  notice,  having  become  the  sites  of  flourishing  towns,  exten- 
sive milling  or  mining  operations,  and  as  such,  so  many  centres  of  population, 
must  be  refeiTed  to  hereafter  in  the  recital  of  the  material  resources  of  the  Ter- 
ritory, and  the  chronicle  of  the  progress  of  settlement — a  progress  enhanced  in 
many  instances  by  natural  advantages. 

The  Straits  of  Juau  de  Fuca  tenninate  at  Point  Wilson  and  Point  Partridge. 
Admiralty  inlet  lies  between  the  strait  and  Puget  sound,  and  is  separated  from 
the  latter  by  the  narroics,  a  mile  in  width  and  about  four  and  a  half  miles  long, 
on  both  sides  of  which  are  high  perpendicular  blufls,  the  northeast  terminus  of 
which  is  called  Point  Deliance,  which  has  been  reserved  for  fortifications.  In 
the  nan'ows  the  tide  rtuis  with  great  velocity,  and  a  reference  to  the  map  exhib- 
iting this  naiTOw  channel  or  dalles  through  which  this  vast  body  of  water  flows 
and  reflows  twice  every  24  hours,  will  readily  account  for  that  fact. 

lliVERS  Emptttn-q  into  Puget  Sound. — Adopting  the  vernacular  of  the 
country,  and  ascribing  the  name  Puget  sound  to  this  Mediterranean  of  the  north 
Pacific,  we  will  commence  on  the  east  shore,  at  the  northern  boundary,  and  follow 
round. 

The  Lummi  river  rises  in  the  Cascade  range,  nortlieast  of  Mount  Baker,  and 
flowing  in  a  southwest  direction  receives  the  Nook-sack  from  the  southeast,  and 
empties  into  Bellingham  bay.  It  is  a  large,  deep  and  rapid  river.  Much  excel- 
lent agi-icultural  and  grazing  lands  border  both  of  these  streams,  and  settlements 
to  a  very  limited  extent  have  been  commenced.  On  these  streams  the  color  can 
be  obtained  anywhere,  but  at  the  head  waters  of  the  Nook-sack  coarse  gold  has 
been  found,  some  specimens  being  nearly  as  large  as  a  pea.  The  dense  under- 
growtli  in  the  river  bottoms,  but  more  prol)ably  tlie  disgust  following  the  Frazer 
river  excitement,  has  created  that  apathy  among  the  citizens  of  Whatcom  which 
has  heretofore  prevented  a  thorough  prospect  from  being  made. 

The  small  inver  or  creek,  Whatcom,  gives  name  to  the  to\ni  through  which  it 
passes.  It  affords  excellent  water  power,  and  at  its  mouth  is  located  the  saw-mill 
of  Mr.  Henry  Reeder,  now  a  member  uf  the  legislative  assembly  from  that  county. 

Next  south  is  the  Swinamish,  rising  in  the  Cascades  and  emptying  into  Belling- 
ham bay.  The  Swinamisli  is  more  proi)erly  a  pass  connecting  two  parts  of  tho 
channel.     Next  south  is  the  Skagit  river,  rising  in  tho  Cascade  range,  north  of 


542  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

the  49tli  parallel,  and  emptying  into  Port  Susan  hy  several  mouths.  For  some 
six  miles  its  navigation  is  obstructed  by  large  drifts  of  logs,  the  collection  of 
years,  above  which  it  can  be  navigated  some  50  miles.  The  valley  of  the  Skagit 
has  already  become  noted  for  its  extensive  and  rich  agricultural  lands.  A  few 
settlers  have  ah-eady  taken  claims.  The  timber  consists  of  cedar,  sprace,  fir, 
&c.,  upon  the  uplands,  and  alder,  maple,  and  Cottonwood  in  the  bottoms.  With 
.ittle  expense  the  drifts  at  its  mouth  could  be  removed,  and  a  fine  valley  extend- 
ing some  60  miles  into  the  interior,  affording  excellent  fai'ins  for  many,  would 
be  opened  to  settlement. 

The  Stit-a-quamish  also  empties  into  Port  Susan.  The  timber  which  skirts 
is  banks  is  very  valuable.  Traces  indicate  the  presence  of  extensive  coal  beds 
about  20  miles  from  its  mouth.  No  attempt,  however,  has  yet  been  made 
to  develop  them.  The  mouth  of  this  river  is  obstructed  with  timber  drifts, 
which  removed,  navigation  for  scows,  rafts,  or  boats  of  light  draught  could  be 
secured  for  25  miles.  One  or  two  inconsiderable  streams  flow  southeast  into  the 
sound,  when  we  come  to  the  Snohomish,  which  empties  abreast  the  south  end 
of  Wliidby's  island.  About  18  miles  from  its  mouth  it  divides  into  two  confluent 
streams,  the  north  being  called  the  Sky-wamish,  and  the  south  fork  the  Sno- 
qualmie.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Snohomish  are  extensive  cranbeny  marshes. 
Like  most  of  the  rivers  emptying  into  the  sound,  tide  flats  stretch  for  considerable 
distance  across  the  mouth  of  the  stream,  permeated  by  numerous  channels.  At 
high  water  there  is  no  difficulty  of  entrance,  but  when  the  tide  is  out  the  channel 
must  be  strictly  followed.  After  entering  the  river  the  banks  become  higher. 
During  the  annual  freshet  its  highest  banks  are  subject  to  overflow.  The  aver- 
age width  of  this  stream  is  about  90  yards,  with  tolerable  deep  water.  On  this 
river  and  both  of  its  confluents  there  is  a  large  quantity  of  first-rate  agricultural 
land.     An  intelligent  visitor  writes : 

There  are  in  some  places  large  tracts  of  land,  with  scarcely  a  stick  of  timber  standing, 
possessing  a  soil  as  rich  as  any  farmer  could  desire,  while  the  rich  bottom  lauds,  covered 
with  a  light  growth  of  vine  maple  and  alder,  appear  to  say,  "come  and  till  me,  and  yoa 
shall  be  well  rewarded."  In  fact,  I  have  uo  hesitation  in  saying  that  the  country  watered 
by  the  Snohomish  and  Snoqnalmie  will  at  no  distant  day  be  thickly  settled  by  those  who 
will  reap  a  rich  reward  for  their  labor. 

The  Sn(jhomish  and  Snoqualrnie  are  navigable  for  steamers  of  light  draught 
at  all  stages  of  water  to  within  a  few  miles  of  the  falls  on  the  latter  river.  The 
falls  of  Snoqualrnie  are  about  35  miles  from  the  confluence  of  that  river  with 
the  Snohomish.  At  the  lowest  stage  of  water  the  width  of  the  falls  will  hardly 
exceed  10  yards,  but  when  the  river  is  full  it  amplifles  to  about  75  yards.  By 
recent  measurement  of  General  Tilton,  chief  engineer  Pacific  division  Northern 
Pacific  railroad,  the  perpendicular  descent  is  270  feet.  Beyond  the  falls  are 
several  rich  prairies  of  considerable  extent.  Following  the  headwaters  of  this 
interesting  river,  we  approach  the  Snoqnalmie  pass.  Following  the  north  con- 
fluent of  the  Siu)homisli,  (the  Skywamish,)  we  fiiul  Cady's  pass,  pronounced  by 
several  ex])lurers  e(]ual  iu  all  respects  to  its  neighbor,  the  Snoqualrnie  pass. 

The  next  river  <»f  note  is  the  Duamish,  entering  the  bay  of  that  name, 
(sometimes  called  Elliott's  bay,)  on  which  the  flourishing  town  of  Seattle  is 
located.  The  Dwamish  has  two  })rincipal  confluents.  White  and  Green  rivers, 
both  of  which  have  historic  importance  froui  being  the  headquarters  of  the  hos- 
tile bands  of  Indians  in  the  war  tif  1S55-'5G.  The  flourishing  settlement  upon 
the  former  was  for  a  time  wiped  out  lifter  the  horrible  massacre  of  October  28, 
1855,  in  which  11  unoffending  wliite  settlers,  men,  women,  and  children,  were 
surprised  at  early  dawn,  murdered,  and  their  bodies  shockingly  mutilated.  The 
savages  carried  off  such  property  as  was  valuable,  and  then  Avantonly  burned 
the  remainder,  together  with  the  dwellings.  Some  of  the  bodies  were  burned, 
and  others  were  thrown  into  the  wells. 

Lake  Dwamish,  or  Lake  Washington,  lies  back  of  the  town  of  Seattle.     Its 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  543 

outlet,  aV'Ont  four  ami  a  lialf  miles  louq-,  called  Black  river,  em])tie3  into  tbo 
Duaiiiisli  river.  Black  river,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  lake,  receives  the 
waters  of  Cedar  river,  which  takes  its  rise  in  the  Cascade  mountains,  a  short 
distance  south  of  the  headwaters  of  the  8not]ualmie.  The  Cedar  lliver  pass,  now 
callcil  th<>  Yakima  jiass,  was  long  confounded  with  the  Hnoqualmie  pa^ss,  (from 
which  it  .is  between  live  and  sc«ven  niik's  distant,)  from  the  fact  that  it  was  tra- 
versed bv  Snoqualmio  Indians.  Following  the  north  tributaries  of  Iho  Wliiio 
river  to  their  source,  a  short  distance  brings  us  to  the  headwaters  of  the  Na- 
chess,  a  tributary  of  the  Yakima.  The  valleys  of  these  two  streams  are  the 
depressit)n  to  which  the  name  of  Nachess  pass  has  been  given,  over  which  tbo 
military  road  was  constructed  b}^  Lieutenant  Richard  Arnold,  United  States 
army,  from  Fort  Walla-Walla  to  Fort  Steilacoom.  An  extensive  and  rich  agri- 
cultm'al  region  is  found  in  the  valleys  of  all  these  rivers,  and  is  fast  filling  w'itli 
settlers.  Inland  navigation  to  the  extent  of  .30  miles  is  afforded  by  the  Dwara- 
ish  and  White  rivers,  the  tide  extending  up  the  former  some  1-4  miles.  On  the 
Black  river  a  vein  of  coal  was  opened  and  worked  by  the  late  Dr.  Bigelow,  and 
a  cargo  shipped  to  San  Francisco  as  early  as  1854. 

The  I'uyallup  river  rises  north  of  ]\Iount  Ranier,  reus  northeasterl}^,  and 
empties  into  Commencement  bay.  It  is  a  fine  stream,  and  l»y  the  removal  of 
two  or  three  drifts  would  be  rendered  navigable  for  vessels  of  light  draught  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Stuck,  which  empties  into  it.  At  its  mouth  (Commencement  bay) 
there  is  an  excellent  harbor,  where  shipping  can  load  with  hay,  produce,  or  lum- 
ber. The  valleys  of  the  Puyallup  and  Stuck  aflord  a  large  quantity  of  good 
agricultural  laud.  The  soil  in  the  river  bottoms  is  generally  very  good,  much 
of  it  first  rate.  There  is  considerable  prairie  in  the  vicinity,  but  mostly  occupied, 
by  settlers.  The  bottoms  are  thinly  timbered  with  maple,  ash,  balm,  willow, 
&c.,  and  easily  cleai'ed.  These  lands  yield  heavy  crops  of  wheat,  barley,  oats, 
and  even  corn  has  succeeded  well.  Vegetables  attain  an  enonnous  size.  The 
highlands  are  generally  rolling  and  well  adapted  to  cultivation.  The  several 
tributaries  of  the  Puyallup  supply  a  considerable  amount  of  excellent  water- 
power.  Although  this  valley  is  covered  by  the  claim  of  the  Puget  Sound  Agri- 
cultural Conqiany,  that  circumstance  has  not  deterred  American  settlers  from 
occupying  and  improving  it. 

The  iSieipially  river  rises  south  of  i\[ount  Ranier,  and  at  its  mouth  is  the  site 
of  Fort  Nisqually,  a  })OSt  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Compan}'.  That  company,  under 
the  treaty-recognized  alias  of  Puget  Sound  Agricultural  Company,  claim  along 
the  shores  of  Puget  sound  from  Kisqually  river  to  Puyallup  river,  back  to  the 
Cascade  mountains,  amounting  to  261  square  miles,  or  167,040  acres.  The 
prairies  in  the  vicinity  are  called  the  Kisqually  plains,  supposed  by  many  to  be 
valuable  for  pasturage.  The  best  portions  have  been  taken  as  claims  by  Amer- 
ican settlers,  who  have  no  very  high  opinion  of  a  coi"poration  without  a  charter, 
or  a  claim  to  land  based  upon  neither  occupancy,  purchase,  nor  posse*;sion,  except 
in  the  few  spots  dotted  here  and  there  formerly  occupied  by  their  herdsmen  or 
farmers,  where  but  little  improvement  or  cultivation  has  been  attempted.  In 
fact,  but  a  trifling  portion  was  ever  used,  even  as  a  range  for  cattle,  horses,  and 
sheep.  It  is  well  worthy  of  remark  that  just  before  the  treaty  of  Juno  15,  1846, 
Oregon  then  being  jointly  occupied,  under  the  treaty  of  18:27,  by  American  set- 
tlers and  the  numerous  establishments  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Conqiany,  the  oiii- 
cers  of  the  latter  consented  to  co-operate  with  the  former  in  the  su[)j>ort  of  the 
provisional  government  of  Oregon,  provided  the  company  could  be  secured  in 
their  occujiancy  of  lands  at  their  several  posts.  To  effect  this,  a  section  called 
the  ''partnership  section"  was  incorjjorated  into  the  land  hnv  and  made  a  part 
of  the  compact  or  constitution.  This  compact  was  ratified  by  the  residents  of 
Oregon  (Briti-sh  and  American)  July  5,  1845.  Under  its  provisions  the  company 
recorded  their  claim  at  Niscjually  as  containing  17  sections,  or  10,880  acres. 
And  yet  under  the  treaty,  ratified  within  a  few  months  of  the  time  at  which  they 


544  EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AKD   TERRITORIES 

themselves  designated  tlie  extent  of  tliat  tract,  they  now  assert  a  claim  to  having 
occupied  167,040  acres. 

Nest  is  the  Des  Chutes  river,  which  empties  into  Bndd's  inlet,  the  extreme 
head  of  Puget  sound,  about  two  miles  fiom  Olympia,  the  capital  of  the  Terri- 
tory. Its  mouth,  named  Tumwater,  is  not  only  notahle  for  its  extensive  and 
valuable  water-power,  but  also  from  the  fact  that  here  Colonel  M.  T.  Simmons, 
the  pioneer  American  settler  north  of  the  Columbia  river,  located  his  claim  in  the 
fall  of  1845. 

Several  small  streams  empty  into  the  west  side  of  the  sound,  biit  the  first 
river  to  be  mentioned  is  the  Skokcnnish,  wliich  empties  into  the  elbow  of  Hood's 
canal,  28  miles  northwest  of  Olympia.  This  river  is  formed  by  two  confluents 
called  the  North  and  South  forks,  taking  their  rise  in  the  Coast  range  of  moun- 
tains and  coming  together  about  10  miles  fi'om  the  mouth  of  the  main  river. 
Upon  removing  the  customary  obstruction  of  collected  driftwood,  the  main  stream 
is  navigable  its  entire  length.  The  Skokomish  valley  varies  from  one  to  three 
miles  in  width,  with  a  soil  equal  to  the  best  bottom  land  in  the  western  States. 
The  growth  in  the  bottoms  consists  of  alder  and  vine  maple.  Union  City  has  been 
started  near  the  mouth,  and  several  claims  have  been  taken.  A  gi-eat  quantity 
of  very  desirable  land  is  still  vacant.  Infonnation  derived  from  sm-vcying  par- 
ties justifies  the  statement  that  the  land  upon  the  forks  is  similar  to  that  upon 
the  river.  The  average  yield  to  the  acre  in  this  valley  is  as  follows :  Potatoes, 
600  bushels  ;  wheat,  40  bushels ;  peas,  60  bushels ;  timothy  hay,  five  tons ;  oats, 
70  bushels. 

Into  Hood's  canal,  at  diiFerent  points,  from  5  to  30  miles  below  the  mouth  of 
the  Skokomish,  several  streams  empty,  the  valleys  of  which  are  marked  by  the 
same  general  features  as  that  of  the  Skokomish.  The  good  lands  are  not,  how- 
ever, in  such  extensive  bodies  as  to  invite  large  settlement. 

Along  the  southern  shore  of  the  strait  of  Fuca  several  streams  empty,  which 
take  their  rise  in  the  Coast  range  of  mountains.  The  principal  of  these  are  the 
Dungeness  and  Elwha,  the  valleys  of  both  of  which  are  fine  agricultural  lands. 
The  former  is  fully  settled,  and  several  farms  have  been  taken  upon  the  latter. 

Rivers  and  Bats  on  the  Pacific  Coast. — Passing  down  the  coast  fiom 
Cape  Flattery,  at  the  distance  of  28  miles  is  the  mouth  of  the  Quillehute  river. 
It  varies  in  width  from  50  to  200  yards,  and  in  depth  from  8  to  12  feet.  Rapids 
occur  at  the  distance  of  three  or  fom-  miles  from  its  mouth,  but  canoes  ascend  for 
many  miles.  Four  or  five  miles  back  from  the  river  is  the  Cammas  prairie,  five 
miles  long  and  about  three-fom'ths  of  a  mile  wide.  The  country  is  well  adapted 
to  grazing  and  cultivation,  and  there  is  but  one  sharp  hill  to  interfere  with  open- 
ing a  good  road  from  the  valley  of  this  river  to  the  straits  of  Fuca.  At  the 
mouth  of  this  river  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company's  steamer  Southerner 
(the  old  Isthmus)  was  wrecked  December  24,  1854.  Diu"ing  the  present  sum- 
mer D.  F.  Brownfield  and  several  others,  cutting  out  a  trail  from  the  river  to 
the  straits,  while  following  one  of  the  small  tributary  streams  of  the  Quille- 
hute, discovered  a  ledge  of  rock  indicating  the  presence  of  silver.  Specimens 
of  the  rock,  in  an  imperfect  assay  made  by  Dr.  Albert  Eggers,  of  Olympia, 
showed  gold  and  iron,  the  fonnev  amounting  to  S9  per  ton.  In  other  specimens, 
tested  by  Dr.  O'Brien,  of  Port  Tuwnsend,  traces  of  silver  were  apparent.  Mr. 
Brownfield,  who  went  through  from  the  straits  to  the  mouth  of  the  river,  describes 
the  region  west  of  the  Olympic  range  as  generally  level,  extremely  fertile,  and 
interspersed  with  prairies  containing  from  500  to  2,500  acres.  The  bottom  lands 
of  the  Quillehute  are  not  only  extensive  but  well  adapted  to  agriculture. 

Quenuilt  river,  a  small  stream  which  heads  in  a  lake  at  the  foot  of  the  Coast 
range,  empties  into  the  ocean  about  four  miles  north  of  Point  Grenville.  In  its 
vicinity  are  the  Indians  whose  tribal  name  is  ascribed  to  it,  noted  in  the  early 
history  of  this  coast  for  hostility  to  the  whites.  Such  names  as  Destruction 
Island  and  Ponta  de  Martires,  designating  localities  in  this  vieinit}-,  are  the  tea- 


WEST    OF    Tlir:    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  545 

timonials  of  tlicir  perlidioiis  cnu'lty,  the  ovidcnoo  of  tlieir  ori<»'inal  oliaraftor. 
'I'liis  river  c^iv'cs  iianio  to  a  variety  of  salmon,  as  yet  not  found  in  an}*  other 
locality.  They  are  short,  thick,  and  very  fat,  and  are  the  most  delicious  variety 
of  the  numerous  family  of  salmonidce  which  abound  in  all  the  waters  of  this 
Tenitory. 

There  are  several  other  small  streams  rising  in  the  Coast  range,  and  generally 
{lowing  southwest,  empty  into  this  portion  of  the  coast.  But  nothing  is  reliably 
known  of  this  section  of  the  country  after  leaving  the  coast. 

({rat's  ITaeror  and  the  Valley  Watered  by  the  CnEHALLs  and  its 
Tuir.UTAiUKS. — Gray's  harbor,  discovered  by  Captain  Robert  Giay,  of  Boston, 
in  the  ship  Columbia,  May  7,  179:2,  and  by  him  named  Bulfinch  harbor,  is  a  tri- 
angular-shaped bay  with  base  toward  the  ocean,  and  the  apex  receiving  the  Che- 
halis  river.  Its  south  point  of  entrance  is  called  Chehalis  I'oint;  Point  Brown, 
the  north  cape,  received  that  name  from  Lieutenant  Whidby,  of  the  Vancouver 
expedition.  A  bank  extends  across  the  entrance,  with  a  passage  about  three- 
fourths  of  a  mile  wide,  carrying  from  5  to  11  fathoms  of  water.  Outside  the 
bank  is  another  narrow  bar,  with  some  three  fathoms  of  water.  From  this  poin-t 
the  depth  increases  to^-ard  the  east,  the  deepest  water  being  between  the  points 
of  entrance.  The  bay  is  surrounded  by  mud  flats,  l)are  at  low  water.  The  mouth 
of  the  Chehalis  nearly  due  east  of  the  entrance  is  distant  about  12  miles  from 
Point  Brown.  The  greatest  width  of  the  bay  north  and  south  is  15  miles,  and 
its  area  is  about  150  square  miles.  Competent  judges  have  pronounced  tliishar- 
boi-  equal  in  every  respect  to  Boston  harbor.  The  Um-tulup,  llokium,  atul  other 
small  streams  empty  directly  into  the  bay.  The  main  river,  however,  is  the 
Chehalis,  which  rises  in  the  Cascade  mountains,  not  far  north  of  the  Columbia 
river,  and  south  of  the  sources  of  several  of  the  tributaries  of  the  latter,  flows 
northerly  a  considerable  distance,  Avhen  it  takes  almost  a  due  westerly  course, 
receiving  a  branch  from  the  Boisfort  hills,  and  finds  its  way  into  Gray's  harV)or. 
Its  principal  tributaries  are  the  Satsop,  Wynoochee,  Westican,  John's,  Black, 
Skookum-chuck,  and  Newaukum.  This  valley  is  the  richest  and  most  extensive 
body  of  agricultural  land  west  of  the  Cascade  mountains.  Indeed,  Chehalis  and 
Lewis  counties,  and  the  portion  of  Thurston  drained  by  these  streams,  may  be 
])ronounccd  the  garden  spot  of  Washington  Tenitory.  The  valley  varies  in 
breadth  from  15  to  50  miles.  From  the  mouth  of  the  Satsop  through  to  Hood's 
canal,  closed  in  by  the  Black  Hills  and  the  Coast  range,  there  is  a  beautiful  open 
valley  some  14  or  15  miles  wide.  In  fact,  the  whole  country  from  tlie  Chehalis 
to  the  head  of  the  sound  and  the  head  of  Hood's  canal  is  well  adapted  to  farm- 
ing purposes.  Prairie  land  to  the  extent  of  50,000  acres  suited  for  grazing  lies 
in  the  vicinity  of  Gray's  harbor,  and  the  rich  bottoms  skirting  all  these  streams, 
covered  with  an  undergrowth  of  alder,  maple,  &c.,  so  easily  cleare<.l,  would  fur- 
nish first-class  farms  for  a  vast  number  of  settlers. 

The  travel  from  Olympia  to  Chehalis  Point  has  heretofore  been  by  a  road  to 
the  "  Idock-house  "  on  the  Chehalis  river,  GO  miles  east  of  the  point,  and  thence 
down  the  river  in  canoes,  the  total  distance  being  about  90  miles.  From  the 
mouth  of  the  Satsoj),  (40  miles  from  Chehalis  Point,)  a  road  of  30  miles  in  length 
has  just  been  opened,  secunng  direct  conununication  with  Olyjujiia,  at  the  head 
of  the  sound.  The  Cli'ehalis  is  navigable  at  all  tides,  for  vessels  of  light  draught 
or  small  river  steamers,  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Wynooche,  and  at  high  tide 
to  tlie  mouth  »:)f  the  Satsop,  where  there  is  a  tidal  rise  and  fall  of  18  inches.  At 
the  lowest  water,  for  tw<j  and  three  months  in  the  year,  shoal  places  might  obstruct 
navigation  ;  but  f<jr  eight  months  no  difliculty  ne(!d  i)revent  ascending  as  far  as 
Claquato,  where  the  tenitorial  road  between  Olympia  and  Monticello  crosses 
the  Chehalis  river.  The  Slessrs.  Goff,  of  Claquato,  have  just  put  on  this  river  a 
good  light-dranght  stern-wheel  boat,  and  they  express  the  assurance  that  they  can 
make  trips  most  of  the  year  to  Boisfort  prairie,  some  miles  above  Claquato.  AH 
the  streams  abound  with  salmon,  trout,  and  many  varieties  of  edible  fish.  Elk 
35 


546  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

and  other  game,  large  and  small,  are  plentiful.     Coal  lias  been  discovered  on 
the  north  side  of  the  river,  and  also  upon  several  of  the  tributary  streams. 

SnOALWATER  Bay  axd  THE  WiLLOPAH  Vallet. — From  Chehalis  Point, 
the  site  of  the  em  Inyo  Chehalis  City,  a  splendid  beach  at  every  stage  of  the  tide 
affords  the  best  of  roads  to  Toke  Point,  the  northern  cape  of  the  entrance  to 
Shoalwater  ba}'' ;  distance  about  16  miles.  Along  this  road  a  continuous  tide 
prairie  appears,  constituted  almost  entirely  of  sand,  yet  yielding  the  most  excel- 
lent grass.  Shoalwater  bay,  which  is  one  of  the  best  harbors  between  San 
Francisco  and  the  Straits  of  Fuca,  is  in  the  southwest  ])ortion  of  the  Tcrritorv, 
separated  from  the  Columbia  river  by  a  narrow  strip  of  land.  Toke  Point  lies 
about  28  miles  north  of  Cape  Disappointment.  It  is  about  five  miles  from  Toke 
Point  to  the  southern  cape,  (Leadbettei-'s  Point.)  Two  channels  Avith  middle 
sands  lying  between  afford  good  entrances,  the  north  one  being  a  good  beating 
channel.  The  bay  is  full  of  shoals  and  flats,  and  at  low  tide  about  half  its  area 
is  bare  ;  good  but  narrow  channels  run  throughout  its  extent,  worn  b}''  the  several 
streams  which  empty  into  it.  These  flats  are  covered  with  oysters,  which  con- 
stitute the  chief  article  of  export.  Codfish,  halibut,  and  sturgeon  are  abundant. 
Several  varieties  of  salmon  are  also  found,  and  in  spring  large  shoals  of  small 
herring  enter  the  bay.  The  annual  shipments  of  oysters  to  San  Francisco  is 
about  3.5,000  baskets ;  about  5,000  baskets  more  are  sent  to  Portland,  Oregon, 
and  other  points  on  the  Columbia  river.  ]\Ir.  George  Davidson,  in  his  valuable 
''  Directory  of  the  Pacific  Coast,"  thus  states  the  extent  of  this  bay  : 

The  arm  stretching  southward  towards  Baker's  bay  is  15  miles  long  from  Leadbetter's 
Point,  with  an  average  width  of  not  less  than  three  and  a  half,  wliile  the  upper  jjortion  stretches 
to  the  northeast  for  nine  miles  to  the  mouth  of  the  Willopah  river,  reckoning  from  the  middle 
of  the  line  joining  Cape  Shoalwater  (Toke  Point)  and  Leadbetter  Poin-t. 

The  same  authority,  speaking  of  the  peninsula  terminating  in  Leadbetter  Point, 
thus  describes  it : 

The  peninstila  is  a  long,  flat,  marshy,  and  sandy  plain,  elevated  but  a  few  feet  above  the 
level  ct  the  sea,  and  covered,  like  tire  entire  surface  of  the  country,  with  a  dense  growth  of 
gigantic  forest  trees,  principally  spruce,  tir.  and  cedar,  with  a  lew  specimens  of  maple,  ash, 
and  black  alder.     The  spruce  frequently  attains  a  diameter  of  eight  feet. 

Several  rivers  empty  into  this  bay,  among  which  are  the  Palux,  Xasal,  and 
Willopah.  The  principal  one  is  the  Willopah,  in  the  valley  of  which  is  a  numerous 
and  one  of  the  oldest  settlements  in  the  Territory.  This  river  enters  the  bay 
at  its  northeast  corner.  The  lower  river  is  bordered  with  tide  lands  which  are 
subject  to  overflow;  the  uplands  are  well  adapted  to  grazing.  It  is  a  mile  wide 
at  its  mouth.  The  tides  extend  to  the  rapids,  17  miles  from  the  mouth.  A  con- 
siderable number  of  prairies  skirt  the  river  at  intervals,  and  the  bottom  is  a  rich 
deep  soil  of  a  clayey  character.  The  bottoms  are  covered  with  vine  maple  and 
alder,  and  extend  above  the  rapids  to  a  distance  of  about  20  miles,  and  are  about 
10  miles  in  width. 

The  Washington  Tributaries  to  the  Lower  Columbia. — The  mouth 
of  the  Columbia  is  now  reached.  An  extended  no»aco  of  this  river  has  already 
been  made,  and  the  reference  to  settlements  along  its  shores  will  necessarily 
exhibit  further  f(.'atures  of  the  country  bordering  upon  it.  The  same  may  be  said 
of  the  streams  flowing  into  it  from  the  north,  a  ])articular  description  of  several 
of  which  will  be  omitted.  The  Cowlitz  river  being  a  part  of  the  line  of  travel 
from  Columbia  I'iver  to  Puget  sound,  deserves  particular  mention.  This  river 
having  its  source  in  the  Cascade  mountains,  between  Mounts  Ilanier  and  St. 
Helens,  runs  west,  then  south,  and  empties  into  the  Columbia  about  50  miles 
fr(»m  its  mouth.  It  runs  the  whole  length  of  Cowlitz  county,  and  nearly  the 
whole  breadth  of  Lewis,  through  good  agricultural  land,  both  prairie  and  bottom. 
The  Cowlitz  ftu-ms,  the  Cowlitz  prairie,  and  the  Cowlitz  landing  are  familiar  as 
household  words,  and  date  their  origin  long  antecedent  to  the  commencement  of 
American  settlement.     Tiie  first  name  alludes  to  the  claim  of  the  prairie  by  the 


WEST    OF    TIIK    JiOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  547 

Pug'ot  Soinul  Agricultniul  Cmnpany,  and  (lie  aira  Hn-  wliicli  the  United  (States 
is  requested  to  pay,  uiidor  tlic  treaty  ct"  J\dyl,  lSGo,\vith  Great  Britain,  is  3, ';72 
acres,  or  nearly  six  square  miles.  The  Auiericaiis,  however,  have  squatted  on 
this  elaim;  until  the  oeeupancy  of  the  company  has  been  reduced  to  75  acres. 
On  this  prairie  the  Catholics  established  a  missionary  station,  where  recently  a 
tow^l  has  been  laid  out  in  acre  lots.  Here,  too,  was  the  site  of  the  old  Red  river 
settlement  of  Canadian  French,  introduced  in  1842  under  the  auspices  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company.  Tlie  landing  was  the  point  where  the  portage  com- 
menced, on  the  old  route  from  Fort  Vancouver  to  tlie  northern  establishments. 
To  that  point,  about  30  miles  from  tlie  mouth  of  the  river,  they  navigated  it  with 
batteaux  and  canoes,  which  were  cordelled  up  the  stream.  Along  the  eastern 
shore  were  two  trails,  one  used  at  low  and  the  other  at  high  stages  of  the  water. 
The  Cowlitz  river  is  still  a  link  in  the  chain  of  direct  communicatiwu  between 
the  Columbia  river  and  Paget  sound.  It  is  a  large  rapid  stream,  at  high  stages 
of  water  navigable  for  steamers  of  light  draught  above  the  old  landing,  and  for 
most  of  the  year  to  "  Pumphrey's,"  about  24  miles  fi'om  its  mouth,  where  steamers 
frequently  run.  A  boat  is  now  being  built,  and  will  be  placed  on  the  river  this 
fall,  to  run  from  Monticello  to  the  old  landing,  connecting  with  the  steamere  to 
Portland,  Oregon. 

In  Clarke  county  there  are  several  tributaries  of  the  Columbia,  the  principal 
of  which  are  Cath-la-poole  and  Washougal.  The  fonner,  made  by  two  forks 
respectively  rising  north  and  south  of  Mount  St.  Helens,  flows  nearly  west  and 
enters  the  Columbia  about  SO  miles  from  its  mouth.  It  is  a  bold,  rapid  stream, 
nuining  about  30  yards  in  its  bed.  The  bottom  lands  at  the  lower  porticm  of 
the  river  are  w'ide,  but  narrow'  as  they  approach  the  foot  hills  of  the  Cascade 
mountains.  The  country  is  well  timbered,  occasionally  interspersed  with  small 
prairies  well  adapted  to  grazing.  The  Washougal  empties  into  the  Columbia 
about  12  miles  above  Vancouver.  A  large  settlement,  to  which  it  gives  name, 
is  located  in  its  valley. 

The  Olympic  ok  Coast  Range  of  Moun^taixs. — Among  the  natural 
features  of  this  portion  of  tln^  TcuTitory,  the  Coast  range  of  mountains  must  iiot 
be  omitted.  They  are  located  in  the  northwest  peninsula,  between  Hood's  canal 
and  the  Pacific  ocean.  Mount  Olympus,  with  an  altitude  of  8,138  feet  as  estir 
mated  by  Wilkes,  is  a  snow-capped  peak,  and  may  be  seen  far  out  to  sea.  It 
gives  identity  to  the  chain,  and  the  name  Olympic  is  now'  generally  applied  to 
this  range.  This  sierra,  for  it  consists  of  several  peaks,  was  first  seen  by  Perez, 
in  1774,  who  nominated  it  La  SieiTa  Santa  Rosalia.  Meares  saw  it  in  1788,  and 
describes  it  under  the  name  which  he  gave  it,  of  Mount  Olympus.  Around  and 
from  the  base  of  this  main  sieiTa,  the  ntmicrous  mountains  descend  to  hills  and 
spurs,  and  abruptly  tei'niinate  on  the  sandy  beach  of  the  ocean  in  low  perpendic- 
ular bluffs.  It  was  long  supposed  that  the  Black  Hills  near  Olympia  were  spin's 
of  the  Coast  range.  This,  however,  is  a  mistake.  Parties  have  gone  thrc)ugh 
and  report  that  there  is  an  open  valley  of  at  least  15  miles  in  width,  separating 
these  two  ranges.  ^ 

CLUtATE  OF  Western  Washixctox. — The  climate  of  western  Washington 
is  essentially  different  from  that  of  the  portion  east  of  the  Cascade  mountains. 
The  fact  that  there  is  comparatively  no  winter  in  so  high  a  latitude  may  be  a 
matter  of  surprise.  Properly  speaking,  however,  there  are  but  two  seasons,  the 
dry  and  the  rainy.  The  grades  of  temperature  and  the  acconq)animents  which 
in  other  countries  of  tlie  same  latitude  ascribe  the  features  and  title  to  the  four 
seasons,  spring,  sununer,  autunm,  and  winter,  are  here  in  great  measure  olVliterated, 
or  at  least  so  dimly  marked  that  the  seasons  imperceptil)ly  run  into  each  other, 
and  lose  their  distinctive  line  of  division.  It  is  not  unusual  for  the  three  winter 
months  to  be  mild,  without  snow  or  ice,  the  grass  growing  meanwhile.  In  Feb- 
ruary, the  weather  may  occur  mild  and  genial  as  May,  to  be  succeeded  in  .Alarch 
or  April  with  om-  coldest  weather.     In  July  and  August,  days  in  some  portions 


548 


RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 


of  which  the  maxiranm  temperature  "will  reach  90°  or  100°,  are  sometimes  fol- 
lowed by  cold  nights,  occasionally  accompanied  by  heavy  frost.  The  rainy 
season  proper  begins  late  in  October  or  early  in  November,  and  may  be  said  to 
continue  till  the  ensuing  April.  It  frequently  happens  after  the  first  rains 
that  weeks  of  weather  similar  to  Indian  summer  occur,  and  it  is  seldom  that  one 
or  other  of  the  months  of  January,  February,  or  March  does  not  prove  continu- 
ously mild  and  clear.  Tke  summers  of  this  Temtory  are  unsuipassed  in  the 
world.  While  many  days  are  exceedingly  warm,  the  nights  are  always  cool  and 
refreshing,  as  if  specially  intended  for  wholesome  sleeping.  In  the  winter  months, 
six  in  number,  rains  prevail.  No  disappointment  should  be  felt  if  falling  weather 
occuiTcd  some  part  of  each  24  hours,  and  yet  many  bright  sunshiny  days  relieve 
the  long-continued  rainy  season  of  Washington  Territory.  Of  the  16  winters 
passed  in  this  Territory,  the  writer  has  known  but  three  so  severe  as  to  render  it 
essential  to  house  and  feed  stock.  The  Indians  do  not  pretend  to  such  acts  of 
providence,  and  they  lose  but  little  of  their  small  wealth  from  exposure  or  cold. 
Rose  bushes  generally  have  proved  an  evergreen,  and  during  the  winter  of 
1860-'61,  the  hermosa  continued  to  bloom  in  the  garden  of  the  writer:  till  the 
25th  of  January.  Such  weather  is  by  no  means  axiomatic,  and  an  improvident 
farmer  may  lose  his  stock  if  means  of  shelter  and  food  be  not  attainable.  Those 
who  have  followed  stock-raising  most  successfully  provide  from  two  to  three 
months'  feed  as  a  general  rule.  While  it  may  not  be  essential,  surely  "it  is  a 
good  thing  to  have  on  hand."  An  average  of  from  7  to  10  days  of  freezing 
weather  may  be  looked  for  with  moderate  certainty,  when  ice  may  be  formed 
sufhciently  thick  to  bear  a  man's  weight.  Under  most  favoring  circumstances, 
a  small  pond  entii'ely  protected  from  the  wind,  or  the  action  of  the  sun,  may  be 
frozen  tight  enough  to  pemrit  a  day  or  two  of  skating  to  a  limited  number  of  per- 
sons. Parties  fond  of  sleighing  consider  themselves  especially  favored  if  they 
are  afforded  a  season  of  from  three  days  to  a  week's  duration. 

From  a  series  of  meteorological  observations  taken  at  Fort  Steilacoom,  the  fol- 
lowing will  demonstrate  the  above  statements.  The  reason  for  adopting  this 
year  is  simjily  because  it  will  bo  found  that  the  mean  temperature  of  the  three 
winter  months  comports  with  the  register  furnished  at  the  ^nithsonian  Institute, 
and  used  by  the  Hon.  Charles  Sumner  in  his  recent  exhaustive  speech  in  favor 
of  the  purchase  of  Russian  America.  In  the  register  used  by  him,  the  mean  of 
the  winter  months  for  a  series  of  years  amounted  to  39°  38'.  In  the  year  adopted 
the  mean  temperature  is  30°  70^ 

3Iean  temperature  at  Fort  Steilacoom,  Wasliington  Territory,  (latitude  47°  07^ 
for  the  six  months  regarded  as  the  rainy  season,  or  winter,  together  with  the 
amount  of  rain  and  snow,  and  tM  number  of  frosts  in  each  mmith. 


Mean  temperature. 

Rain. 

» 

>. 

Remarks. 

1       a 

a 

a 

3  a 

% 

§           a 

c. 

p. 

9  " 

M          o 

n 

o 

1853. 

0             o 

o 

o 

o 

Inclie.': 

October 

45.25  55.58 

62.32   .51.19 

53.32 

6.93 

Ilonr  frost,  three  times.     Frost,  once. 

November 

40. 02|  4a  07 

50.43    43.73 

44.  t;3 

18.41 

Hoar  frost,  twice.     One  strong  frost. 

December 

38.74   44.30 

51 

44.45 

44.  94 

4.4;.' 

li  inch  snow,  23(1,  morning.      Hoar  frost,   three; 

froBt,  one;  hard  frost,  four  times. 

1854. 

January 

24.  C4 

29.96 

37.  80 

30.03 

31.38 

8.69 

2}  inches  snow.  Ice,  U  inch,  (4th.)  .Snow  latter 
part  of  lOth;  2}  inches  sunrise  1  Itb,  and  at  intervals 
ihat  day.  Snow  .showers  on  12th.  Six  days  without 

February 

34.17 

39.82 

48.17 

3G.42 

43 

7.57 

irost. 
iBt,  4  inch  snow.     Showers  of  snow  on  10th.    i  inch 
on  11th.     Snow  on  14th.    Hard  frost,  four  times. 
Hoar  frost,  twice. 

March 

35.53 

43.58 

54.22 

40.09 

46.08 

2.89 

Light  showers  of  snow  on  10th.  Showers  of  hail  and 
snow  on  29th.  Two  hoar  frosts  and  one  hrird  frost 
in  mouth. 

WEST    OF    TIIK    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 


549 


Mean  kmj^craiurc  ai  Fort  Sklkoom,  hi/  montlis,  for  four  years. 

M^nn  of  four  years:  Jnnuiiry,  38°.  1 ;  February,  40°.  7 ;  March,  41°.  8;  April,  48°.  fi;  May,  56°.  6;  June,  61°.  1; 
July,  fi4°.  9;  August,  64°.  0;  September,  56°.  9;  October,  52°.  6;  November,  '10°  2  :  December,  38°.  3;  for 
year,  50°.  H;  three  wiuter  mouths,  3i)^.  0. 

On  page  159  of  Davidson's  "Directory  of  the  Pacific  Coast"  will  be  found  a 
scries  of  meteorological  observations  ontliePtiget  sound,  for  the  years  1855-G-7, 
of  the  summer  months.     Those  of  1857  present  the  following  results : 


o! 

d 

B 

a 

^^ 

"S 

■g 

*-  rt 

a 

a 

s 

to 

a 
.§ 

to 

^  a 

C8 

a 

0  J, 

a 

Time. 

'5 
"3 

■3 

s 

c3  a 
£•3 

.9 

g 

a 

J2 

Kemarka. 
(.\ppended  below  uaid register.) 

0 

o 

a 

a 

IS 

to 

to 

si 

0 
0 
to 

CO 

□ 

^ 

a 

0 

S 

S 

s 

« 

*A 

K 

0 

K 

P3 

1857. 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0, 

Incites 

Inches 

May  (3  weeks.) . 

71.7 

48.4 

101.5 

46.9 

38.5 

18.1 

4fi.  0 

0.52 

0.79 

Greatest  range  of  temperature 
during  the  above  period,  63°'. 

78.2 
74.9 

50.7 
51.6 

90.1 
89.2 

29.2 
26.5 

43.0 
46.9 

13.1 
9.3 

36.9 
33.1 

.62 
.44 

1.19 

0.01 

July 

Greatest  range  of   barometer 

from     May    12   to    October 

13,  0°.  79  inch. 

AusiLiit 

73.8 

51.1 

88.0 

28.0 

47.1 

9.7 

37.8 

.46 

0.08 

SepUmber 

65.  5 

49.8 

76.4 

23.3 

45.2 

8.5 

30.8 

.73 

0.70 

A  dry  season,  and  marked  by 
a  week  of  remarkably  hot 
wu.ather  at  the  close  of  May 
and  the  begining  of  June. 

October  (2  w'ks.) 

60.1 

48.9 

68.7 

16.3 

43.4 

7.8 

25.1 

.65 

0.74 

^Ir.  Davidson  tlien  remarks:  ''The  cerealia  generally  grows  well,  but  the 
climate  is  too  cold  for  maize.  During  the  winter  a  great  amount  of  rain  falls — 
as  nuich  as  60  inches;  and  heav}^  weather  prevails  principally  from  the  south- 
ward.    It  is  never  cold  enough  to  form  thick,  clear,  solid  ice." 

In  the  winter  of  1866-7,  the  United  States  Coast  Survey  brig  R.  II. 
Fauntlcroy  was  ordered  to  remain  here  during  the  winter  with  the  idea  of  testing 
■whether  winter  work  was  practicable,  and  to  be  on  the  station  at  the  earliest 
oj)eniiig  of  the  season.  To  test  the  propriety  of  such  order,  a  meteorological 
register  was  kept  to  show  the  number  of  daj's  when  work  could  not  be  done. 
jMr.  J.  8.  Lawson,  in  charge  of  the  work,  has  kindly  furnished  an  abstract. 
It  shows  that  not  much  may  bo  effected  by  keeping  a  full  crew  on  duty,  but  it 
] troves  still  more  the  mildness  of  a  Puget  sound  winter,  and  how  exempt  this 
climate  is  from  fogs. 

Abstract  of  mekorohgkal  register  United  States  siirretjing  brig  B.  II.  Fauntkroy, 
November,  1866,  to  April,  1867,  inclusive. 

(Most  of  these  ob.seiTutions  were  taken  at  Olyuipia. ) 


Clear 
days. 

Stormy  days. 

Amount 
of  raiu. 

Month. 

Rain. 

Fog  or 
mist. 

o 
.3 
7 
2 

22 

25 

25 
18 
24 
•     8 
8 

3 
3 

2 
1 
0 

Inches. 
9,892 

8,260 

7,  :m 

5,197 

0,880 

April..                                        

2,371 

Snow  on  four  days. 


550  EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

That  admirable  document,  the  speecli  of  Senator  Sumner,  on  Russian  Amonca, 
explains  the  phenomenon,  wh}^  Washington  Territory  is  gifted  with  a  climate 
so  much  milder  in  winter  than  places  of  nmch  lower  latitude  in  Europe  or  the 
Atlantic  States.  His  remarks  were  applied  to  Sitka,  in  latitude  57°  03'.  With 
how  much  more  force'  may  they  be  ap])lied  to  western  Washington,  with  the 
Cascade  mountains  as  a  natural  wall  effectually  bamng  out  the  cold  bleak  winds 
from  tlie  frozen  northeast,  and  confining  the  more  genial  warm  cun-ents  of  air 
and  ocean  which  the  distinguished  senator  so  beautifully  describes  in  the  following 
extract : 

All  this  is  now  explained  by  certain  known  forces  in  nature  Of  these  the  most  important 
is  a  thermal  current  in  the  Pacitic,  corresponding  to  the  Gulf  Stream  in  the  Atlantic.  The 
latter  having  its  origin  in  the  heated  waters  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  flows  as  a  river  through 
the  ocean  northward,  encircling  England,  bathing  Norway,  and  warming  all  within  its 
influence.  A  similar  stream  in  the  Pacific,  sometimes  called  the  Japanese  current,  having 
its  origin  under  the  equator  near  the  Philippines  and  the  Malaccas,  amid  no  common  heats, 
after  washing  the  ancient  empire  of  Japan,  sweeps  northward  until  forming  two  branches: 
one  movas  onward  to  Behring's  straits,  and  the  other  bends  eastward  along  the  Aleutian 
islands,  and  then  southward  along  the  (;oast  of  Sitka,  Oregon,  and  California.  Geographers 
have  described  this  ''heater,"  which  in  the  lower  latitude  is  as  high  as  81°  of  Fahrenheit, 
and  even  far  to  the  north  it  is  as  high  as  50°.  A  chart  now  Before  me  in  Findlay's  Pacific 
Ocean  Directory  portrays  its  course,  as  it  warms  so  many  islands  and  such  an  extent  of 
coast.  An  officer  of  the  United  States  navy.  Lieutenant  Bent,  in  a  paper  before  the  Geo- 
graphical Society  of  New  York,  while  exhibiting  the  influence  of  this  current  in  mitigating 
the  climate  of  the  northwest  coast,  mentions  that  vessels  on  the  Asiatic  side,  becoming 
unwieldy  with  accuaiulations  of  ice  on  the  hull  and  rigging,  run  over  to  the  higher  latitude 
on  the  American  side  and  "thaw  out."  But  the  tepid  waters  which  melt  the  ice  on  a 
vessel  must  change  the  atmosphere  wherever  they  flow. 

1  hope  you  will  not  regard  the  illustration  as  too  familiar,  if  I  remind  you  that  in  the 
economy  of  a  household  pipes  of  hot  water  are  sometimes  employed  in  tempering  the  atmo- 
sphere by  heat  carried  from  below  to  rooms  above.  In  the  economy  of  nature  these  thermal 
currents  are  only  pipes  of  hot  water,  modifying  the  climate  of  continents  by  carrying  heat 
from  the  warm  cisterns  of  the  south  into  the  most  distant  places  of  the  north.  So  also  there 
are  sometimes  pipes  of  hot  air,  having  a  similar  purpose,  and  these,  too,  are  found  in  this 
region.  Every  ocean  wind,  from  every  quarter,  as  it  traverses  the  stream  of  heat,  takes  up 
tl^e  warmth  and  carries  it  to  the  coast,  so  that  the  oceanic  current  is  re-enforced  by  an  aerial 
current  of  constant  influence. 

But  these  forces  are  aided  essentially  by  the  configuration  of  the  northwest  coast,  with  a 
lofty  and  impenetrable  barricade  of  mountains,  by  which  its  islands  and  harbors  are  pro- 
tected from  the  cold  of  the  north.  Occupj'ing  the  Aleutaiu  islands,  traversing  the  peninsula 
of  Alaska,  and  running  along  the  margin  of  the  ocean  to  the  latitude  of  54°  40',  this  moun- 
tain ridge  is  a  climatic  division,  or,  according  to  a  German  geographer,  a  "cliiriatic  shed," 
such  as  j)erhaps  exists  nowhere  else  in  the  world.  Here  are  Alps,  some  of  them  volcanic, 
with  Mount  St.  Elias  higher  than  Mount  Bhiuc,  standing  on  guard  against  the  Arctic  Circle. 
So  it  seems  even  without  the  aid  of  science.  Here  is  a  dike  between  the  icy  waters  of 
Behring  sea  and  the  milder  southern  ocean.  Here  is  a  partition  between  the  treeless  northern 
coast  and  the  wooded  coast  of  the  Kenauians  and  Koloschiaus.  Here  is  a  fence  which  sepa- 
rates the  animal  kingdom  of  this  region,  leaving  on  one  side  the  walrus  and  ice  fox  from  the 
Frozen  ocean,  and  on  the  other  side  the  humming  bird  from  tlie  tropics.  I  simply  repeat 
the  statements  of  geography.  And  now, you  will  not  fail  to  observe  how  by  this  configura- 
tion the  thermal  currents  of  ocean  and  air  are  left  to  exercise  all  their  climatic  power.  (Vide, 
p.  29.) 

George  Davidson,  who  lias  already  been  referred  to,  and  whose  works  have 
been  consulted  in  preparing  the  f(uegoing  memoir,  thus  briefly  but  comiu-elien- 
sively  gives  his  view  of  the  coast  division  of  Washington  Territory  : 

Washington  Territory  has  a  climate  excelled  only  by  that  of  California.  We  know  not 
where  to  point  to  such  a  ramification  of  inland  navigation,  save  in  the  British  jiossessions  to 
the  northward.  For  depth  of  water,  boldness  of  approaches,  freedom  from  hidden  dangers, 
and  the  immeasurable  sea  of  gigautic  timber  coming  down  to  the  very  shores,  these  waters 
are  unsurpassed,  unapproachable. 


II.  Cektral  Washingtojt. — The  second  natural  division  of  Washington 
Territory  lies  between  the  Cascade  mountains  and  the  Columbia  river,  both  of 
which  have  already  been  noticed.  The  following  extract  from  the  geographical 
memoir  embodied  in  tho  "narrative  and  final  report  of  explorations  for  a  route 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS.'  551 

for  a  Piicilic  vailroatl,  near  tin-  17tV  and  49tli  i)arall('ls  of  north  latitude  IVoui  .St. 
Paul  to  l*u<i-et  sound,"  by  tlio  late  (rovcM'nor  Stevens,  chnrum  ct  vcncrahile  nomcn, 
\vill  gWo  the  best  idea  of  the  remaining  geographic  features  of  this  interesting 
region : 

Cominp:no\v  to  the  country  lyiiis:  t)et\vccii  the  main  Columbia  ami  the  Cascaflo  moinitains, 
it  may  l»f  necessary  to  describe  witii  some  particiiiarity  the  various  streams  and  tlieir  several 
triliutiiries  tlowinjr  into  the  main  Columbia.  A  o-lance  at  tlie  map  sliows  that  the  {general 
course  of  these  streams  is  very  much  to  the  soutii,  and  between  them  an;  aenerally  to  be 
t'oiind  hi>xh  niouutaiu  spurs  which  run  to  the  Columbia  itself,  overhangmjj  it  numy  hundred 
feet.  Tiie  nmst  considerable  rivers  are  the  Yakima,  with  its  Pisko,  its  Atahnam,  its  Nachess, 
its  Wenass,  and  other  tributaries. 

Thi>  Pisquouse  or  Wenachee  river,  Lake  Chelan  and  the  Chelan  river,  the  Methow  river 
and  the  Okinakane  river  may  be  described  as  follows  :  The  Yakima  rises  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  passes  of  the  Cascade  range,  latitude  47"^  1.")',  from  several  large  and  beautiful  lakes,  and 
taking  a  general  course  to  the  southeast,  runs  for  16U  miles  to  its  continence  with  the  Colum- 
bia, in  latitude  -IS^  05'.  For  "J.")  miles  down  the  stream  its  valley  is  only  from  half  a  mile  to  a 
mile  wide;  it  then  widens  out  in  Ketelas  plain,  which  is  lH  or  15  miles  wide,  the  river  there 
being  90  feet  wide,  and  about  three  in  depth,  but  very  rapid.  Below  thi.s  plain  the  river 
curves  gradually  to  the  south,  until  it  receives  the  waters  of  the  Pisko;  then  turns  again 
eastward  to  its  mouth.  Between  the  Ketelas  and  Atahnam,  for  00  mil'^s  the  hills  again 
encroach  on  the  valley,  but  below  that  it  again  wit^'us  out  to  0  or  10  miles,  with  numerous 
branchings  among  the  hills.  On  the  west  side,  o()posite  Ketelas  plain,  three  stieams,  the 
Pteii-niun,  Emptenum,  aud  Wenass,  rise  among  the  hilLs  separating  the  main  Yakima  from 
its  principal  branch,  the  Nachess.  These  streams  are  from  15  to  20  miles  long,  and  run  through 
small  and  fertile  valleys.  The  Nachess  rises  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Nachess  Pass,  and  run- 
ning nearly  parallel  to  tiie  Yakuna  at  a  distance  of  from  15  to  20  miles,  joins  it  after  flowing' 
about  5t)  miles.  It  has  a  valley  from  half  a  mile  to  four  miles  in  width.  The  Atahnam  ri.ses 
about  30  u\iles  south  ot  it,  aud  runs  iu  a  more  easterly  course,  emptying  about  10  miles  below ; 
its  valley  is  smaller  than  that  of  the  Nachess,  but  fertile.  The  Pisko  rises  among  ttie  hills 
east  of  Mount  Adams,  aud  iu  size  and  character  resembles  the  Atahnam.  Ouly  two  small 
branches  join  the  Yakima,  from  the  north  aud  east,  one  running  through  the  middle  of  Ketudas 
plain  from  the  hills  northward,  the  other  running  almost  directly  contrary  to  the  upper 
Yakima  from  the  hills  east  of  its  southerly  bend.  The  Pisquouse  and  Enteathwa,  which 
enter  the  Columbia  near  latitude  -17'^  30',  are  at  tlieir  mouths  rapid  streams,  with  high  falls  as 
they  descend  from  the  hills  at  the  foot  of  the  Cascade  range  into  the  deep  valley  of  the  Colum 
bia.  They  are  supposed  to  head  in  the  mountains  about  30  miles  northwest  of  it.  The 
Chelan  rises  in  a  lake,  which  is  reported  by  the  Indians  to  run  ibr  W  miles  back  among  tke 
mountains,  and  approaches  to  within  two  miles  of  the  Columbia,  into  which  its  outlet  falls, 
by  a  series  of  cascades,  350  feet  in  this  short  distance,  in  about  latitude  47'-'  45'. 

The  Methow  rises  by  several  sources  in  the  mountains  northwest  of  Fort  Okin- 
agan,  and,  running  southeasterly,  empties  near  latitude  48°.  On  its  upper  part 
there  is  a  fine  wide  valley;  but  this  narroAvs  to  a  mile  for  10  miles  above  its 
mouth.  The  Okinakane,  rising  in  a  long  series  of  lakes  north  of  the  49tli  par- 
allel, runs  nearly  south  for  seventy  miles  within  the  Territory,  joining  the 
Columbia  only  eight  miles  above  the  jMethow.  It  expands  into  several  small 
marshy  lakes  in  its  course,  and  is  generally  slow  and  deep,  but  in  one  place, 
about  33  miles  above  its  mouth,  there  is  ;i  fall  of  five  feet.  Its  valley  is  fine 
and  the  hills  around  well  grassed,  wooded,  and  arable.  •  It  receives  a  branch 
from  the  northwest,  near  the  falls,  which  runs  through  a  rough,  hilly  country, 
and  has  some  high  falls  near  its  mouth. 

The  Xe-hoi-at-pu-q>iu  is  a  stream  wliich  enters  the  Columbia  oj)posite  Fort 
Colville.  It  has  a  winding  course  of  about  70  miles,  and  has  numerous  beauti- 
ful prairies  in  its  valley,  though  the  hills  around,  }>artinlly  wooded,  are  also  to  a 
gretit  extent  arable.  None  of  these  rivers  west  of  the  Columbia  are  navigable, 
encept,  perhaps,  the  Yakima  for  a  part  of  its  course  at  high  water.  Lake  Che- 
lan is  doubtless  navigable  for  many  n)iles,  but  is  cut  off  from  the  Columbia  by 
the  lall  of  its  outlet.  Between  these  rivers  are  spurs  thrown  out  from  the  main 
chain  of  the  Cascades,  and  extending  towards,  aud  in  some  cases  reaching,  the 
banks  of  the  Columbia.  Those  between  the  Klikitat  and  Pisko  tributary  of 
the  Yakima  and  between  the  main  Yakima  and  the  "Wenachee  or  Pisquouse 
rivers  are  considerable  mountains ;  thus,  on  the  trail  pursued  by  Lieutenant 
McClellan,  the  rise  from  the  Klikitat  valley  to  the  divide  is  2,3G4  feet,  and  the 


552  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

descent  to  the  Pisko  2,114  feet,  tlie  elevation  of  the  divide  being  3,633  feet 
above  the  sea.  The  rise  from  the  main  Yakima  to  the  divide  separating  it  fi'om 
the  Wenachee  is  4,048  feet,  and  the  descent  to  the  latter  stream  4,264  feet ;  the 
summit  level  is  5,750  feet.  Here  the  spur  comes  upon  the  river,  making  the 
trail  difficult.  The  cjountry  north  of  the  great  western  bend  of  the  Columbia, 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Spokane  to  the  mouth  of  the  Okinakane,  is  much  more 
gentle  and  less  elevated.  Great  injustice  has  been  done  this  country  by  a  want 
of  patience  and  consideration  on  the  part  of  the  gentlemen  who  have  gone  over 
it  rapidly  in  the  summer,  and  who  have  been  over  it  but  once.  It  is  impossible 
to  speak  understandingly  of  a  country  unless  one  has  had  experience  and  oppor- 
tunities of  observation  in  countries  somewhat  similar.  Now  the  most  intelligent 
voyagers  and  best  practical  farmers  in  that  country  agree  in  opinion  that  there 
is  a  large  quantity  of  arable  land  throughout  this  country,  and  very  superior 
grazing.  This  is  the  opinion  of  intelligent  Indian  chiefs,  who  have  themselves 
made  some  progress  in  raising  crops,  and  who  are  already  great  stock  raisers. 

South  of  the  Yakima  is  a  low  divide  separating  its  waters  from  the  waters 
flowing  into  the  main  Columbia,  in  that  portion  of  the  river  where,  after  leaving 
Fort  Walla- Wal hi,  it  proceeds  westward.  This  divide  has  a  general  parallel 
course  to  the  Columbia,  is  nearly  east  and  west  some  30  miles  from  the  main 
river,  and  between  it  and  the  Columbia  is  a  large  body  of  arable  land,  nearly 
every  acre  of  it  adapted  to  cereals.  This  country  has  not  come  under  the  obser- 
vation of  a  scientiiic  party  with  instruments  in  hand,  but  has  been  much  trav- 
elled over  by  intelligent  officers  of  the  Indian  service  and  by  the  practical  agii- 
culturifets  of  the  country.  Little  streams  flowing  fi'om  the  southern  side  of  this 
divide,  which  is  well  wooded  all  through,  pass  down  to  the  main  Columbia, 
watering  the  country  and  fm'nishing  the  means  of  supplying  the  farm  and  animals 
with  water. 

On  the  several  tributaries  of  the  Yakima,  particularly  towards  its  upper  waters, 
the  land  is  rich,  and  adapted  to  most  of  the  crops;  and  so  in  the  valley  of  the 
Yakima  itself.  This  valley  has  been  denominated  by  some  a  desert  and  sage 
plain;  sage  does  occur  in  spots  and  small  quantities,  but  much  of  the  coun- 
try is  cultivable  and  productive.  It  may  be  observed  that  in  regard  to  the  whole 
of  this  central  portion  of  the  Ten-itory  it  will  be  necessary  to  exercise  care  as  to 
seed  time,  and  farmers  will  have  a  disadvantage  over  those  west  of  the  Cascades 
in  their  seed  time  being  very  much  shorter;  but  with  ordinary  care  as  to  the  }>ut- 
ting  in  seed  no  danger  need  be  apprehended  from  droughts.  This  portion  of 
the  countrj'  is  wooded  about  half  wa}'  up  from  the  divide  of  the  Cascade  moun- 
tains to  tiie  Columbia  itself,  but  you  pass  up  the  main  Yakima  70  miles  before 
you  reach  the  building  })ine,  although  cottonwood  is  found  on  its  banks  sutKcient 
for  camping  pvu-poses;  but  when  you  reach  the  Piscpiouse  or  Wenachee  you 
come  to  a  wooded  region  which  extends  to  the  main  Columbia.  The  forest 
growth  of  the  upper  waters  of  the  Clearwater,  and  of  the  main  Columl)ia  from 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Wenachee,  furnishes  inexhaustil)le  supjdies,  which,  after 
being  rafted  down  the  streams — that  is,  the  Snake  and  Columbia  rivers- — will 
furnish  settlements  in  the  vicinity  of  those  rivers  with  fii'ewood  and  lumber  at 
moderate  rates.  So  great  are  the  facilities  for  rafting  that  it  almost  amounts  to 
a  contiuuoas  i'orest  along  the  streams.  The  Blue  mountains,  which  border  the 
AValla- Walla  valley  on  the  south,  have  a  general  com'se  westward,  south  of  the 
main  Columbia,  until  they  unite  with  the  Cascade  mountains,  from  which  flow 
many  streams  to  the  Columbia,  to  the  Umatilla,  AVillow  creek.  Butter  creek, 
John  l^ay's  river,  and  the  l)es  Chutes  river. 

When  this  interior  becomes  settled  there  will  be  a  chain  of  agricultural  settle- 
ments all  the  way  from  Walla-AValla.to  the  Dalles,  south  of  the  Columbia,  along 
the  streams  just  mentioned  and  north  of  the  Columbia,  on  the  beautiful  table 
land  which  has  been  described  to  border  it  from  the  Walla- Walla  west^\•ard. 
The  Dalles  is  a  narrow  place  in  the  Columbia  river  where  the  channel  lias  been 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  553 

•worn  out  of  the  rocks,  liolow  wliicli,  ;il)i>ut  10  miles,  is  tlio  luoutli  of  tlio  Kliki- 
tat  river,  whose  ijeneral  vaHcv  furnishes  the  route  of  communication  with  the 
main  Yakima  and  the  several  intermeiliate  streams,  the  trails  pursuing-  a  i^ener- 
ally  northerly  threctitm.  In  this  Klikitat  valley  is  much  good  fanning-  land. 
Ir  is  also  worthy  of  observation  that  gold  was  found  to  exist,  in  the  explorations 
of  1853,  tin-oughout  the  whole  region  between  the  Cascades  and  the  main  Colum- 
bia, to  the  north  of  the  boundary,  and  paying  localities  have  since  been  found 
at  several  points,  particularly  on  the  southern  tributary  of  the  Wenachec.  The 
gold  (piartz  also  is  found  on  the  Xachess  river.  The  gold-bearing  crossing  the 
Columbia  and  stretching  along  Clark's;  fork  and  the  Kutanie  river  uncpiestion- 
ably  extends  to  the  llocky  mountains. 

Climatk  of  Cicxtral  WAsrriN(^.TOX. — The  meteorological  data  at  points  of 
known  altitude  within  this  region  precludes  a  satisfactory  notice  of  the  climate. 
In  the  absence  of  registered  observations  facts  may  be  stated  from  which  infer- 
ence*; may  be  drawn. 

A.  AY.  Tinkham,  a  distinguished  civil  engineer  connected  with  the  Northern 
Pacific  railroad  survey,  left  Fort  '\Yalla-^Yalla  (now  Wallula)  January  7,  1854, 
followed  thc^Columbia  river  to  the  mouth  of  the  Y'^akima,  and  ascended  that 
river  to  its  sources  in  the  Cascade  mountains.  To  Kle-alum-lake  (with  an  alti- 
tude of  3,000  feet,  which  he  reached  January  17)  he  found  no  ditliculty  in  trav- 
elling with  horses.  At  this  point  the  snow  was  about  two  feet  deep;  "30  miles 
lower  down  on  the  river  the  snow  was-  very  light,  not  over  three  or  four  inches 
decj) ;  the  grass  was  good  and  exposed,  and  the  Indian  horses  were  in  good  con- 
dition. Extending  still  further  down  and  reaching  Walla-Walla,  the  horses  are 
ranging  in  thousands  throughout  the  borders  of  the  valley,  with  abundant  grass, 
and  rarely  with  any  trouble  from  the  snow."  From  this  camp  to  the  20th  of 
Jaimary  the  snow  ni.twhere  exceeded  two  and  a  half  feet  in  depth.  From  lake 
Kitchelus  to  *he  summit  (Y'akima  pass)  the  snow  attained  the  depth  of  six  feet. 
Mr.  Tinkham  remarks : 

Di'sceiidiiif^,  tlie  snow  rapidly  decreases  on  both  sides  of  the  mountain,  on  the  eastern 
side,  abt)Ut  :^5  miles  from  the  summit,  amoimting  to  but  iVom  one  and  a  half  to  two  feet  in 
depth,  and  ou  the  western  side  falling  away  until,  in  the  short  distance  of  14  miles,  it  is 
only  eight  inches  deep. 

It  is  proper  to  add  that  the  winter  of  1853-4,  when  the  recoinioissance  was 
made,  was  an  unusually  severe  winter. 

Colonel  Thoi-]),  of  Yakima  county,  and  one  of  the  earliest  settlers  in  this 
valley,  having  lost  considerable  stock  in  the  very  severe  winter  of  1861-2,  at 
the  next  harvest  stacked  k  large  quantity  of  hay.  With  no  accessible  market 
for  the  article,  the  stacks  S'till  stand.  The  grass  keeping  green  all  winter  in  his 
lijcality,  (on  the  Y^akima,  about  a  mile  above  the  mouth  of  the  Atahnara,)  his 
large  hei-d  of  cattle  having  had  no  occasion  to  be  fed,  the  six  or  seven  great 
hay  stacks  stand  there  undiminished  in  their  original  vcdume;  they  serve  as  a 
reminder  of  that  uimsiuilly  cold  winter.  They  ecptally  attest  the  mihl  tempera- 
ture of  the  valleys  of  Central  Washington,  and  while  one  cannot  fail  to  com- 
mend the  jtrudence  of  the  stock  raiser,  yet,  for  the  sake  (»f  his  labor  and  that  so 
much  good  hay  should  not  be  wasted,  would  almost  wish  that  real  winter  would 
come  oftener.  .Sylvester  ^lowry,  then  a  lieutenant  in  the  United  States  army, 
who  had  charge  of  the  meteorological  observations  of  the  western  division  of  the 
Northern  Pacific  railroad,  1853,  gives  a  series  of  means  of  o])servations  at  each 
camp  between  Fort  Vancouver  and  Fort  Colville,  in  the  months  from  July  to 
OctobcT,  inclusive,  to  appreciate  which  the  altitudes  of  the  camps  should  bo 
included.  There  was  no  rain  in  July,  three  days  on  which  rain  fell  in  August, 
seven  days  ou  which  rain  fell  in  September;  in  October,  five  days  on  which  raiiv 
fell,  and  snow  on  the  night  of  23d  and  morning  of  24th.  He  notices  the  great 
disproportion  between  the  temperature  at  sunrise  and  mid-day,  and  says : 

I  have  no  recollection  of  a  single  day  on  which  a  fire  was  uncomfortable  during  the  pre- 


554  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

ceding  and  succeeding  sunrise.     The  heat  was  not  generally  oppressive,  except  in  the  sun, 
throughout  the  march. 

Governor  Stevens,  who  so  thoroughly  investigated  all  these  subjects,  in  solvino* 
the  great  desideratum  of  these  times,  ititeroceanic  railway  communications,  thus 
arrives  at  the  character  of  the  climate  in  this  vicinity,  which  is  quoted  with  the 
more  satisfaction  from  the  fact  that  his  deductions  are  substantiated  by  residents 
of  the  Yakima  valley.     He  thus  argues  : 

Walla- Walla,  latitude  46°  03',  longitude  118°  25';  altitude,  1,39G  feet;  li  year— spring, 
r>\^A) ;  suniiTier,  73°.]  ;  autumn,  53^.(5 ;  winter,  34°.l  ;  year,  53^.2.  Dalles,  lat'itude  4.^^  36', 
longitude  J2t)°  55' ;  altitude,  300  feet ;  3|  years — spring,  53°  ;  summer  70°. 4  ;  autumn,  .52°. 2 ; 
winter,  35°. 6 ;  year,  52°. 8.  Lapwai,  Clearwater  valley,  latitude  46°  27',  longitude  117°, 
altitude,  1,000  teet,  2-J-  years  observations  for  temperature  give — spring,  51°  ;  summer,  70°. 3; 
autumn,  51°. 2;  winter,  36°. 9  ;  j'ear,  52°. 4.  Of  these,  the  mean  may  repre.'^ent  the  climate 
of  the  great  plains  and  of  the  valleys  connected  with  it  up  to  latitude  49°,  which  are  about 
of  the  same  or  a  lower  elevation,  giving  us,  for  spring,  51°. 9;  summer,  71°. 2;  autumn, 
53°  ;  winter,  350.6  ;  year,  52°.7. 

With  respect  to  moisture,  no  record  exists  for  Lapwai ;  Walla- Walla  and  the  Dalles,  how- 
ever, are  drier  in  climate,  as  shown  by  the  records.  Fort  Walla- Walla,  1^  years  observa- 
tions— spring,  I). 40;  summer,  2.85;  autumn,  4.54;  winter,  7.10;year,  20.89  inches.  Dalles,  3|- 
years — spring,  2.63;  summer,  0  42;  autumn,  4.16;  winter,  7.11;  year,  14.32  inches. 
Mean — spring,  4.51  ;  summer,  1.63;  autumn,  4.35;  winter,  7.11  ;  year,  17.60  inches. 

All  the  crops  of  the  middle  States,  including  oorn,  can  be  cultivated  success- 
fully in  the  Yakima  valley.  This  statement  is  based  upon  reliable  information 
from  settlers  who  have  resided  there  and  farmed  for  several  years  past. 

III.  Eastern  Washiis^gton. — The  Columbia  river,  which  bounds  this  sec- 
tion of  the  Territory  on  the  west,  has  already  been  a  matter  of  extended  notice. 
To  present  the  idea  of  the  vastness  of  regions  drained  by  it  and  its  tributaries, 
it  was  essential  to  allude  to  its  two  main  confluents,  the  Snake  (Lewis's  Fork) 
and  the  Pen  d'Oreille,  (Clarke's  Fork,)  as  also  the  area  of  country  through 
which  they  flowed.  These  two  rivers  have  their  respective  sources  far  to  the 
south  and  east  of  the  Territory  of  Washington,  but  they  cross  the  whole  width 
of  the  region  under  consideration,  and  in  it  are  their  mouths,  several  of  their» 
tril)utaries,  and  thfe  largest  proportion  of  their  navigable  channels. 

If  the  Spokane  and  Walla  Walla  rivers,  with  their  resjiective  branches  and 
cimfluents,  be  excepted,  the  remaining  rivers  of  eastern  Washington  generally 
flow  into  one  or  other  of  the  two  great  ft)rks  of  the  Columl)ia.  This  section 
may  therefore  be  considered  as  the  aggregation  of  the  Walla- Walla  valley  ;  the , 
basin  of  the  Lower  Snake  river ;  the  Great  Plain  east  of  the  Columbia,  circum- 
scribed by  the  big  bend  of  that  river  and  divided  by  the  Gi'and  Coulee;  the] 
Spokane  river,  valley  and  plains  ;  and  the  ^■alley  of  the  Pen  d'Oreille,  underl 
the  general  term  of  ''  Colville." 

Tlie  Walla-Walla  river  and  its  several  tributaries,  the  Touchet,  IMill  creek, 
Dry   creek,  and   several  small   streams  which    ])ermi'ate    the    valley    like    the, 
branches  of  a  I'an,  take  their  source  in  the  lUue  mountains,  flow  westerly,  and] 
converge  in  the  main  stream,  which  enters  the  Columbia  just  above  the  northern,^ 
boundary  of  Oregon.     At  the  mouth  of  the  river  was  located  the  Hudson's  Bay' 
Company's  fort,  Js'ez  Perce,  or  Walla-Walla.     It  was  built  in  1820  by  an  oflicer] 
of  the  Northwest  Company,  and  consisted  of  a  stockade,  200  feet  square,  18 j 
feet  high,  with  a  broad  walk  on  tup,  with  two  bastions  at  the   northeast  and] 
southwest  angles.     The  timber  used  in  its  construction  was  drift-wood  from  thej 
upper  Columl)ia.     In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  fort  are  plains  of  drifting] 
sand,  extending  back  of  the  river  several  miles,  the  only  vegetation  being  wild] 
sage.     This  fort  was  a  stopping  jtlace  and  de])ot  for  the  brigade,  as  the  trading] 
parties  of  the  comi)any  were  termed.     In  later  years  it  was  the  supply  post  and 
entrepot  of  Forts  Hall  and  Boise  and  the  trapping  parties  of  the  interior.     Sup- 
plies from  Fort  Vancouver  intended  for  these  establishments  were  forwarded  b}' 
land  from  this  point,  while  such  as  were  designed  for  the  upper  Columbia  were 
transported  via  the  river.     This  fort  was  burned  in  1842,  and  rebuilt  with 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOl»JNTAINS.  555 

adobes.  In  Novpmhor,  185;>,  shortly  after  the  outbreak  of  Indian  hostilities,  it 
was  taken  by  the  Indians  and  plundered,  sinee  which  time  it  has  never  been 
occujned  by  the  company.  In  its  vicinity  Colonel  Kelley,  of  the  Oregon  vol- 
unteers, had  a  two  days'  battle  with  the  Indians  who  had  robbed  the  fort,  i^-ainin^- 
a  decisive  victory  over  them.  In  this  action  the  notorious  Pu-jiu-mox-mox,  head 
chief  of  the  hostiles,  was  slain. 

The  town  of  Wallula  now  occu])ies  the  site  of  this  old,  aI)andoned  fort.  I3eiu£r 
the  eastern  terminus  of  the  regular  estal)lished  trips  of  the  steamboats  of  the 
Oregon  Steam  Navigation  Company,  an  extensive  forwarding  business  is  done 
lieie.  It  may  also  )>e  considered  the  port  of  the  city  of  Walla- Walla,  distant 
some  .'>0  miles  east,  as  also  a  great  distributing  point  for  the  rich  mining  regions 
of  Idaho  and  Montana. 

AVhirman's  missionary  station  (Waiilatpu)  was  located  on  the  banks  of  tho 
Walla- Walla,  about  seven  miles  west  of  the  site  of  the  present  city  of  Walla- 
Walla.  It  was  estaV)lished  l)y  Dr.  Marcus  Whitman  in  the  fall  of  1836,  under 
the  auspices  of  the  American  Board  of  Foreign  Missions,  and  broken  up  Novem- 
ber, 1847,  by. the  atrocious  murder  of  its  pious  and  devoted  founder,  his  lovely 
wife,  and  nine  other  American  inmates,  by  a  band  of  perfidous  Cayuse  Indians. 

There  is  a  striking  peculiarity  about  the  innumerable  streams  wir.cli  flow  into 
the  Walla- AYalla  river.  They  spread  themselves  in  almost  every  direction,  not 
only  in  channels,  but  over  and  on  top  the  surface,  constituting  a  most  admirable 
system  of  self-distributing  natural  irrigants.  To  this  feattnc  this  rich  agricul- 
tnral  valley  owes  very  much  for  its  remarkable  fertiility  and  producing  power. 
The  main  streams  are  skirted  by  alder,  cottonwood,  and  willow,  the  only 
approach  to  timbea-  in  the  valley.  Distant  a  f^nv  miles,  however,  the  Blue  moun- 
tains are  covered  with  heavy  timber,  adequate  for  all  purposes,  tliough  it  is  ren- 
dered expensive  l)y  the  cost  of  transportation, 

3Iill  creek  is  worthy  of  notice,  not  only  because  upon  its  banks  is  located  the 
city  of  AValla- Walla,  the  largest  town  in  the  Territory,  but  also  from  the  remark- 
able fact  that  it  di\ddes  itself  into  many  distinct  channels  or  creeks,  spreading 
out  laterally  and  watering  quite  an  extensive  surface,  then  gradually  converging 
and  concentrating  into  one  channel,  through  which  their  waters  are  emptied  into 
the  Walla- Walla  river.  We  know  of  no  other  such  system  of  irrigation  as  this 
provided  by  bounteous  nature  for  this  beautiful  region.  The  valleys  of  all  these 
rivers  and  their  numerous  branches  afibrd  abundance  of  excellent  farming  lands, 
yielding  heavy  crops.  The  table-lands  and  suiTonnding  hills  are  possessed  of 
soil  of  like  character.  In  consequence  of  the  absence  of  water,  or  dilHcidty  of 
irrigation,  which  was  deemed  a  sine  qua  non  to  their  successful  culti\'ation,  until 
very  recently  no  attempts  were  made  to  convert  these  lands  into  farms ;  but  as 
settlement  increases,  they  are  l)eing  occupied  and  very  successfully  cultivated. 
For  grazing,  these  tables  and  side  lulls  cannot  be  excelled.  They  are  covered 
with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  native  bunch-grass  of  most  nutritious  qtiality. 
During  the  rains  of  spring  it  seems  to  attain  its  growth,  and  through  the  dry 
season  which  follows  it  stands  to  be  cured  into  the  best  of  hay,  preserving  its 
strength  and  esculent  i)ro{)erties  all  winter.  Stock  alnmdon  the  green  grass  of 
the  bottom  lands  to  feed  nj)on  it,  and  on  it  they  keep  i'at  all  winter.  Another 
noticeable  feature  in  this  region  is  the  great  nuud)er  of  cold  springs  bursting  out 
upon  the  surface,  some  of  wliich  are  sufficiently  large  for  water-j)owers.  On  tho 
hottest  days  they  retain  their  coolness,  and  are  many  degrees  colder  than  tho 
water  in  the  neighboring  streams,  to  which  they  are  found  in  close  proxinjity. 

But  the  term  AValla-Walla  valley,  in  connnon  parlance,  is  by  no  means 
restricted  to  the  valley  of  the  river  of  that  name.  Governor  Stevens,  in  his 
valuable  Geographic  Memoir,  thus  alludes  to  its  boundaries  : 

The  Snake  river  forms  a  {^roat  re-entering  from  the  Clearwater  to  its  junction  with  tlio 
Columbia,  which  re-entering,  being  bounded  on  the  south  by  the  Blue  mountains,  has  been 


5rj6  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

niimecl  the  Wall.i- Walla  valley,  although  that  term  properly  applies  to  the  imfaediate  system 
of  valleys  whose  streams  connect  with  the  Walla-Walla  river  itself. 

It  may  be  proper  to  add  tLat  tlie  settlers  on  the  Tukannon,  Al-pah-wali,  and 
Pa-ta-ha,  wbicl>i  are  all  tribntariey  of  Snake  river,  wonld  deem  themselves  out- 
lawed if  denied  their  residence  in  Walla- Walla  valley.  In  langnage  appre- 
ciated in  this  Territory,  this  valley,  in  its  most  restricted  meaning,  would  find  its 
synonym  in  Walla- Walla  county. 

The  Snake  river,  having-  formed  the  east  boundary  of  the  Temtory  from  the 
46th  parallel  to  the  mouth  of  the  Clearwater,  crosses  the  entire  width  of  eastern 
Washington  and  empties  into  the  Columbia  about  nine  miles  nortli  of  the  mouth 
of  the  Walla-Walla.  Some  200  miles  of  its  length  courses  in  and  around  this 
section.  Its  main  northern  tributary  within  Washington  Ten'itory  is  the  Pelouse, 
which  is  formed  by  two  main  branches,  one  rising  nearly  north  in  the  plain  of 
the  Columbia,  the  other  in  the  Bitter  Hoot  mountains.  The  latter,  after  running 
west  130  miles,  joins  the  north  fork  about  12  miles  from  the  mouth  of  Pelouse. 
The 'Falls  of  the  Pelouse,  about  nine  miles  from  its  mouth,  are  M^ell  worthy  of 
remark.  The  following  description  is  from  the  pen  of  J.  M.  Stanley,  esq.,  artist 
of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Exploring  Expedition,  (1853  :) 

The  Pelouse  river  flows  over  three  steppes,  each  of  which  is  estimated  to  have  an  .ascent 
of  1,00U  fei^t.  The  falls  descend  from  the  middle  of  the  lower  of  these  steppes.  There  is  no 
timber  along'  the  course  of  this  stream,  and  but  few  willows  or  other  bushes;  yet  the  soil  is 
fertile,  and  the  grass  nutritious  and  abundant  even  in  winter.  The  fall  of  water,  which  is 
about  30  feet  w-ide,  cannot  be  seen  from  any  distant  point ;  for,  flowing  through  a  tiss^ure  in 
the  basaltic  rock,  portions  of  which  tower  above  in  jagged  pinnacles,  it  suddenly  descends 
some  12.'>  feet  into  a  narrow  basin,  and  thence  flows  rapidly  away  throng!)  a  deep  canon. 
The  distance  from  the  falls  to  Snake  river  is  about  nine  miles  The  valley  widens  consider- 
ably for  about  half  a  mile  from  the  moubh  of  the  Pelouse.  The  home  of  the  Pelouse  Indians 
is  near  this  juuction,  where  they  devote  much  of  their  time  to  salmon  fishing.  The  salaion 
ascend  to  the  tails;  but  these  Indians  have  a  legend  M'liich  tells  of  the  wickedness  of  the 
Indians  higher  up  the  country,  and  how  the  Great  Spirit,  iu  his  displeasure,  placed  the  falls 
as  a  barrier  to  the  further  ascent  of  the  salmon. 

Of  the  o-veat  plain  lying  east  of  the  Columbia,  Governor  Stevens  thus  speaks  : 
That  portion  of  the  great  plain  lying  east  of  the  main  Columbia,  aud  which  may  be  regarded 
as  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Spokane,  and  on  the  east  by  the  foot-hills  of  the  Bitter  Root 
nioiuitains,  is,  for  the  most  part,  well  watered  and  well  grassed.  The  eastern  half  of  this 
portion  is  exceedingly  well  adapted  to  agricultural  purposes.  The  various  streams — the 
Pelouse,  the  Kamas  Prairie  creek  of  the  Coeur  d'Alene,  the  Spokane,  and  Cteur  d"Aleue 
rivers — are  well  timbered  with  pine,  and  numerous  rivulets  and  springs  are  found  through 
that  portion  of  the  couutry,  facilitating  the  progress  of  settlements,  and  rendering  the  whole 
at  once  available  for  agriculturists. 

The  Grand  Coulee,  which  is  the  pecvdiar  specialty  of  this  region,  conunences 
on  the  east  side  of  the  Columbia,  inunediately  noi'th  of  the  chain  of  hills  which 
skirt  the  river  in  its  bend  from  White  Blutt's  westward  ;  after  running  in  the 
same  general  direction  as  these  hills  eastward  some  30  miles,  it  turns  sharply  to 
the  nortli,  and  continues  in  that  direction  till  it  opens  again  upon  the  Cohnnbia, 
some  60  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Spokane.  The  information  as  to  this 
south  arm  and  mouth  of  the  Grand  Coulee  is  derived  from  A.  J.  Treadway,  esq., 
who  sin-veyed  several  townships  in  its  vicinity  during  the  past  summer,  (1867,) 
under  contract  with  the  surveyor  general  of  this  Territorj".     He  thus  describes  it  : 

The  south  or  southwest  end  of  the  Grand  Coulee  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  Columbia,  in 
towushi])  l(i  N.,  R.  "215  E.,  at  about  centre  of  the  range  and  south  side  of  the  township.  It 
extends  through  ranges  24,  '25,  2(5,  27,  28  east,  and  then  turns  nearly  to  ihe  north.  Near  the 
southern  boundary  of  the  township  is  a  range  of  high  iiills  from  ],OUti  to  1,500  feet  high, 
running  nearly  cast  and  west,  j)(irallel  with  the  township  line.  In  the  '  oulee  are  numerous 
broken  or  detached  ledges  of  rocks  from  10  to  75or  100  feet  high,  and  fi  un  100  feet  to  one  or 
two  miles  iu  length,  running  generally  in  the  same  direction  with  the  Coulee.  Scattered 
through  the  valley  are  numerous  mounds  of  broken  rocks  seldom  more  than  10  or  20  feet  iu 
height. 

Lieutenant  Richard  Arnold,  United  States  army,  of  Stevens's  Exploration, 
(1853,)  describes  the  north  end  as  starting  from  the  Columbia  60  miles  belov/ 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  657 

tlio  moutli  of  the  Spokane,  and  moving  in  a  general  direction  soutli-soutliwest. 
He  says  : 

The  Grand  Coulee  is  about  10  miles  wiJc  where  it  opens  on  the  river  at  its  northern  end, 
which  is  1(10  feet  above  the  water,  and  g^racbially  widens  towards  the  soutli ;  its  walls,  S(,0 
feet  hijrli.  are  forniotl  of  solid  basaltic  rock,  but  diminished  in  hei<^ht  soutliwavd  as  the  bottom 
rose  toward  the  summit  of  the  plaiu,  until  in  20  miles  distance  tliey  ended.  Numerous  lat- 
eral ravines  and  canons  were  seen,  runninj;  in  various  directions,  some  f)f  them  coutaining 
lakes  without  outlet,  aud  streams  10  feet  wide  aud  two  deep. 

I'lie  portion  west  of  tlic  Grand  Coulee  bounded  by  tlie  Ccdnnibia  is  of  basaltic 
formation,  sparsely  grassed  and  scantily  snj)plied  witli  water.  A  hirge  proiior- 
tion  of  country  east  and  soutli  of  the  Grand  Coulee  is  well  ada})ted  to  grazing 
and  tillage. 

The  Spokane  river  empties  into  the  Columbia  just  below  the  48tli  parallel, 
and  near  the  jioint  where  the  Ccdmnbia,  deflecting  shaqily  from  its  southerlv 
course,  forms  the  north  limb  of  the  big  bend  of  that  river  to  the  westward.  A 
few  miles  within  the  eastern  Itouudary  of  the  Territory  it  receives  its  main  con- 
fluent, the  Coenr  d'Alene,  the  outlet  of  Coeur  d'Alene  lake,  which  is  located  in 
that  naiTow  strip  of  Idaho  Territory  situate  between  eastern  Washington  and 
Montana.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  effort  now  being  made  to  re-annex  this  strip 
to  Washington  will  meet  with  success.  It  is  a  useless  appendage  to  Idaho,  and 
if  county  organization  became  necessary,  the  isolation  from  the  body  of  the  Ter- 
ritory and  the  capital  would  prove  a  source  of  inconvenience  to  tlie  residents. 
The  reannexation  would  divest  Idaho  of  incongruous  shape,  avoid  i)arallels  of 
latitude  and  imaginary  lines  as  boundaries,  substituting  therefor  mountain  chains, 
and  it  woidd  render  intact  a  region  of  country  with  community  of  natural  featiu'e 
and  resources,  and  if  inhabited  at  all,  its  population  would  depend  upon  simi- 
larity of  piu'suit. 

The  Coeur  d'Alene  river  has  several  tributaries,  the  principal  of  which  are  the 
St.  Joseph's  aud  South  Fork.  The  valleys  of  the  Spokane  and  Cceur  d'Alene 
are  well  adapted  to  settlement,  abundantly  supplied  with  timber  and  water,  and 
affording  a  large  proportion  of  arable  land.  This  region  m;t,y  l)e  regarded  as 
bounded  on  the  north  by  Clarke's  fork,  or  the  Pen  d'Oreille  river,  which,  tifter 
leaving  Pen  d'Oreille  lake,  (east  of  this  Territory,)  runs  northwest  and  enters 
the  Cohunbia  under  the  49th  parallel.  From  the  Spokane  river  to  the  northern 
boundary  the  country  is  heavily  wooded,  interspersed  with  valleys,  many  of 
•which  are  now  occupied  by  settlers.  The  extensive  prairie,  or  plain  of  the 
Spokane,  must  not  be  overlooked;  through  it  passes  the  wagon  road  from  Walla- 
Walla  to  Pen  d'Oreille  lake.  This  vicinity  is  memorable  for  the  short  but  bril- 
liant and  decisive  campaign  of  the  late  distinguished  General  George  Wright, 
(then  colonel  9th  United  States  infantry,)  in  the  summer  and  fall  of  1858,  against 
a  ho.stile  combination  of  the  Spokane,  Pen  d'Oreille,  Pelouse,  aud  Coeiu-  d'Alene 
tribes  of  Indians,  a  large  number  of  whom,  on  the  16th  May  previous,  had  siu-- 
prised  and  defeated  Colonel  Steptoe,  of  the  same  regiment,  on  Snake  river. 
Colonel  Wright  was  sent  by  General  N.  S.  Clarke  to  chastise  them.  On  the 
1st  September  he  thoroughly  whipped  them  at  "Four  Lakes,"  (latitude  47°  3:2', 
longitiule  117°  39'.)  without  the  loss  on  his  part  of  a  single  man.  On  the  Gth 
he  repeated  the  lesson  at  "  Spokane  jdains,"  (latitude  47°  40',  longitude  117°  19',) 
in  a  fight  continuin»'  over  seven  hours,  in  which  the  Indians  wen?  driven  some  14 
miles,  two  of  their  chicks  killed,  and  inmibL'rs  of  lesser  note.  The  prompt  ami 
etHcient  conduct  of  Colonel  Wright  forced  the  Indians  to  sue  for  i)eace.  He 
marched  as  far  as  the  Comu'  d'Alene  mission,  curtariing  their  ability  for  further 
depredation,  and  established  quiet  in  that  region,  which  till  this  time  remains. 
He  also  gloriously  wiped  out  the  humiliation  of  Stei>toe's  disaster. 

West  of  the  Spokane  j)rairie  a  range  of  hills  divides  the  waters  of  the  Spokane 
and  lower  Pea  d'Oreille.  Between  these  hills  and  the  Columbia  are  the  Col- 
ville  and  Chemakaue  valleys,  separated  by  a  low  divide.     In  the  latter  was 


558  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

located  tlie  missionary  station  of  Rev.  ilessrs.  Eels  and  Walker,  established  in 
1838,  under  the  auspices  of  the  American  Board  of  Foreign  Missions,  and  suc- 
cessfully conducted  till  the  winter  of  1847,  when,  after  the  "  Whitman  massacre," 
it  was  abandoned.  This  valley  affords  a  large  quantity  of  excellent  agricultm'al 
land,  and  is  capable  of  supporting  a  considerable  settlement. 

The  Colville  valley  derives  its  name  from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  fort 
of  that  name,  situated  near  the  bank  of  the  Columbia,  in  latitude  48°  37'.  This 
post  was  established  in  1825,  and  during  the  period  when  the  company  were  in 
active  operation  was  second  only  in  importance  to  Fort  Vancouver.  It  was 
erected  upon  a  terrace  about  a  mile  back  from  the  river,  and  about  two  miles 
from  Kettle  falls,  a  vicinity  formerl}^  noted  for  the  abundance  of  salmon.  The 
esta])lishme«t  consisted  of  a  dwelling-house,  three  or  four  warehouses,  a  black- 
smith shop,  and  several  one-story  log  houses.  In  primitive  days  these  were 
enclosed  Vithin  a  stockade  some  70  yards  square,  with  bastions  at  two  of  the 
angles.  Nine  miles  from  the  fort  was  the  Cattle  llanch  ;  a  grist-mill  situate  on 
the  Stauntehus  river,  (now  Mill  creek,)  three  miles  from  the  fort,  where  quite  an 
extensive  farm  was  cultivated.  This  mill  supplied  the  adjacent  country  and  the 
northern  posts  wdtli  flour,  made  from  the  wheat  raised  in  this  vicinity  by  its  few 
settlers,  mostly  in  the  company's  service,  and  Indians  living  w'ithin  a  circuit  of 
70  miles,  who  had  been  instructed  in  agriculture  by  the  Protestant  missionaries, 
also  supplied  considerable.  This  fact  alone  speaks  largely  as  to  the  capacity  of 
Colville  valley  as  a  wheat-producing  region.  The  batteaux  used  by  the  com- 
pany in  the  navigation  of  the  Columbia  were  built  at  this  fort.  It  was  in  fact 
a  recruiting  station  and  rendezvous  for  the  company's  brigades  ;  the  point  where 
the  results  of  trade  were  consolidated  to  be  transmitted  across  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains to  headquarters  in  the  Hudson's  Bay  territory,  from  whence  shipments  were 
made  to  England. 

In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  fort  the  soil  is  sandy,  but  a  short  distance 
back  it  })roduces  abundant  crops.  We  have  no  recent  meteorological  data  suffi- 
ciently full  to  make  an  exhibit  of  climate  ;  but  the  assertion  is  fully  warranted 
that  the  winters  are  many  degrees  milder  than  in  tlM3  same  latitudes  east  of  the 
Rocky  mountains.  Captain  Mullan,  United  States  army,  who  has  been  tho- 
rougldy  acquainted  with  this  whole  region  since  1853,  compares  the  climate  of 
this  region  with  that  of  St.  Joseph's,  Missouri,  in  latitude  41°.  The  summer  is 
apt  to  be  hot  and  dry ;  but  little  rain  falls  except  in  spring  and  fall.  Corn  suc^ 
ceeds  well,  though  later  in  maturing  than  in  the  middle  States.  Wheat,  barleyj 
oats,  patatoes,  melons,  &c.,  yield  abundantly. 

Colville  vaUey  proper  is  about  50  miles  long  and  three  wide,  and  large  quan^ 
tities  of  very  rich  land  are  unoccupied  and  open  to  settlement.  Hon.  J.  E^ 
W3'che,  a  judge  of  the  supreme  coiu't,  Washington  Territor\',  but  recentl} 
returned  from  holding  court  at  Pinckney  City,  thus  refers  to  it: 

On  the  rich  lands  now  unoccupied  in  the  valley  and  on  Mud  lake  and  along:  on  different 
points  on  the  Columbia  river  there  are  now  the  finest  opiiortuuities  for  settlement  and  happj 
and  prosperous  homes  ot  any  part  of  this  upper  coast.  From  lt)0  to  3(l0  families  may  fiuo 
as  rich  land  as  the  sun  shines  on,  with  no  timber  to  be  cleared,  and  with  splendid  timber  jnslj 
at  hand,  and  the  iinest  streams,  and  needing  only  the  touch  of  the  husbandman's  hand  to 
yield  abundant  harvests. 

Pinckney  City,  oftener  called  Colville,  has  recently  been  established,  anc 
already  has  a  population  of  over  200.  Near  it  are  the  United  States  niilitar 
post  (Fort  Colville)  and  the  Indian  reservation. 

This  vicinity  has  attracted  much  attention  as  a  gold  mining  region  since  1854! 
indeed  the  name  of  ''Colville"  has  attached  to  the  whole  mining  region  of  tht 
upper  Columbia  and  its  tributaries,  south  of  the  49th  parallel.  Gold  is  fount 
on  all  the  streams  and  bars  from  the  Spokane  river  to  tlie  northern  bomidary'J 
and  up  the  I'en  d'Oreille  to  the  Catholic  Mission.  The  richer  fields  of  BritisI 
Columbia  have  attracted  thither  white  miners,  but  a  large  number  of  Chinamet 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  559 

have  found  succossful  emiiloyuu'iit  on  these  various  bars  for  the  past  several 
years. 

On  tht'  .18th  November,  ISGo,  the  steamer  Forty-nine  Avas  launched  at  the  old 
HawkiTis  baiTaeks,  the  former  winter  quarters  of  the  Northwest  Boundary  Com- 
mission. 81ie  is  114  feet  long,  20  feet  4  inches  wide,  and  5  feet  deep,  with  two 
enfrines,  12.3-ineh  bore,  4  feet  stroke — 80-liorse  power.  Slie  was  built  by  Cap- 
tain LrMuucl  White,  the  ])ioneer  steam  navigator  of  tlie  upper  Columbia.  !She 
rims  from  Little  Dalles,  just  south  of  the  4i3th  parallel,  to  La  I'orte  or  Death 
rapids,  distance,  by  course  of  river,  270  miles,  and  within  15  miles  of  IVig  Bend, 
British  Columbia. 

Little  Dalles  is  an  embryo  town  established  on  the  Columbia,  some  30  miles 
from  Pint'kney  City,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  an  excellent  Avagou  road. 
The  collector  of  customs,  district  of  "Puget  Sound,  has  located  at  this  point  a 
United  States  deputy  collector.  A  large  quantity  of  merchandise  passes  througli 
this  place,  as  is  proven  by  the  following  exhibit,  very  kindly  furnished  by  Major 
J.  J.  IL  Van  Bokkclin,  who  acted  in  the  capacity  of  deputy  collector  from  March 
1,  1866,  to  December  1,  1866,  inclusive: 

1'aluc  of  goods  imported  by  Hudson's  Bay  Company  on  tchich  duties  were  paid  at  Port  Angelas. 

Amount  of  invoices $4,()3'i  00 

Duties  paid  on  same 2,928  21 

Statement  of  goods  in  transitu  from  I 'cHicouver's  island  and  British  Columbia  via  Little  Dalles. 

47  saddle  horses,  183  pack  animals,  merchandise;  value $34,175 

From  Kootenais,  British  Columbia,  to  Vancouver's  island  and  British  Columbia: 

6S  saddle  horses,  225  jiacU  animals,  42  packafjes  furs  ;  value 18,  560 

To  Fort  Shcpliard,  British  Columbia,  from  Vancouver's  island  and  Britisli  Colum- 
bia:  34  saddle  horses,  107  pack  animals;  value  of  merchandise 42,781 

From  Fort  Shephard  to  British  Columbia  and  Vancouver's  island :  38  saddle  horses, 

1U5  pack  animals,  35  packages  of  furs  ;  value 18,500 

\ 

Statement  of  merchandise  shipped  from  Little  Dalles  to  British  Columbia. 

From  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  Fort  Colville:  18  riding  horses,  167  pack  horses, 

28  pack  ages  of  furs  ;   value $J6,  700 

From  Oregon  and  Washington  Territory,  via  Yakima  valley  and  Soogoos  lake: 

2,754  head  of  sheep 22,032 

2,2ti5  head  of  beef  cattle 148,550 

4.snuad  of  horses 33,810 

43  head  of  mules 4,300 

1,132  head  of  pack  animals 113,200 

264  head  of  saddle  horses 26,  400 

From  Little  Dalles  to  Big  Bend,  British  Columbia,  via  Columbia  river — canoes  and  boats: 
Vessels  cleared  at  custom  house,  19  cnnoes,  35  boats,  15  trips  of  steamer  Forty-nine ;  mer- 
chandise cleared  at  custom  house,  $142,487  25. 

RECAPITULATION. 

Valuation  of  merchandise  imported  into  Colville  district $7,560  21 

Valuation  of  merchandise  passed  in  transitu ]  14,  016  00 

Valuation  of  animals 83,  4(K)  00 

Valuation  of  merchandise,  &c.,  exported 507,479  25 

Cli:^iate  of  Eastkhx  Wa-shington. — As  the  central  division  may  1)0 
regarded  as  the  west  half  of  the  great  plain  of  the  Columbia,  tlie  general  remarks 
iipon  its  climate  measinal)ly  ajjply  to  the  eastern  portion  of  said  plain.  ^letccu-- 
ological  data  from  contiimed  observations  at  known  points  are  not  ac<;essil)le 
within  the  time  allowed  in  the  preparation  of  this  memoir,  and  we  are  forced  to 
content  ourselves  with  a  single  citation,  the  mean  result  of  one  and  a  half  years' 
observations:  Fort  Walla-Walla,  latitude  46°  3',  longitude  118°  25',  altitude 
1,396— spring,  47°  ;  summer,  73°.  1 ;  fall,  53°.6  j  winter,  34°.  1 ;  mean  for  yoai', 
53°.2. 


560  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

Captain  MiiUan,  late  of  United  States  amiy,  long  on  duty  in  tliis  section,  in 
Lis  Military  Koad  report,  tlius  refers  to  the  climate : 

The  meteorological  statistics  collectecl  during  a  great  number  of  years  Lave  enabled  us  to 
trace  an  isochimenal  line  across  the  continent  from  St.  Joseph's,  Missouri,  to  the  Pacific; 
and  the  direction  taken  by  this  line  is  -wonderful,  and  worthy  the  most  important  attention 
in  all  fntTire  legislation  that  looks  towards  the  travel  and  settlement  of  this  country.  This 
line,  which  leaves  St.  Joseph's  in  latitude  40'^,  follows  the  general  line  of  the  Platte  to  Fort 
Laramie,  where,  from  newly  introduced  causes,  it  tends  northwestwardly,  between  the  Wind 
River  chain  and  the  Black  Hills,  crossing  the  summit  of  the  Rocky  mountains  in  latitude 
47° — showing  that  in  the  interval  from  St.  Joseph's  it  had  gained  six  degrees  of  latitude. 
Tracing  it  still  further  westward,  it  goes  as  high  as  48°,  and  develops  itself  in  a  fan-like 
shape  in  the  plains  of  the  Columbia. 

It  may  certainly  be  said  of  the  upper  Columbia  basin,  considering  its  altitude 
and  high  latitude,  its  climate  is  retuarkable  for  mildness.  On  the  open  prairie 
the  snow,  never  deep,  seldom  covers  the  ground  a  week  at  a  time ;  iu  the  heavy 
timber  and  in  sheltered  places  it  remains  much  longer  on  the  surface.  It  is  sel- 
dom essential  to  house  or  feed  stock,  though  occasional  severe  winters  serve  as 
warnings  to  provide  food  and  shelter.  One  or  two  mouths'  feed  is  the  extent 
which  necessity  ever  requires  in  the  heaviest  winters.  The  Indians,  who  own 
extensive  bands  of  horses,  take  no  precaution,  sometimes  shifting  their  camps 
for  better  grass,  and  they  seldom  lose  stock  by  occasion  of  severity  of  winter. 
A  noticeal>le  concomitant  of  the  winter  of  the  upper  Coluiubia  is  the  Chenook 
wind  ;  it  is  a  warm  current,  more  properly  a  gale,  occasionally,  during  the  winter 
months,  blowing  up  through  the  channel  of  the  Columbia  from  the  southwest. 
A  few  hours'  continuance  will  remove  every  vestige  of  snow  from  the  t«arth  over 
which  it  sweeps. 

There  is  no  liazard  in  the  statement  that,  for  health  and  salubrity,  there  is 
no  climate  in  the  world  which  surpasses  that  of  Washington  Temtory  in  the 
two  portions  east  of  the  Cascade  mountains. 

The  Counties  of  WAsnrxGTOx  Tekkitort. — The  Territory  is  diA-ided  ^ 
into  21  counties,  viz:  Chelialis,  Clallam,  Clarke,  Cowlitz,  Island,  Jefl'ersonJ 
King,  Eatsap,  Klikitat,  Lewis,  Mason,  Pacitic,  Pierce,  Skamania,  Snohomish/ 
Stevens,  Thurston,  Wahkiakum,  "Walla-Walia,  Whatcom,  and  Yakima. 

Chehalis. — Popitlation,  300;  astx'ssed  value  of  property,  $100,199  94; 
area,  1,600  square  miles.  The  geographical  position  of  this  coimty  is  be-si 
defined  by  referring  to  its  special  feature,  Gray's  harbor,  and  the  valley  of  the 
river  which  confers  its  name.  It  lies  u])on  the  Pacific,  and  its  north  boundar 
is  about  midway  between  Capes  Disappointment  and  Flatt^uy.  It  was  organ^ 
ized  by  act  of  the  Washington  Terrilory  legislature,  April  14,  1854.  Countj 
seat,  Montesano ;  post  oflices  or  towns,  CedaiTille,  Chehalis  City,  Cosmopoli 
Elma,  and  Satsop.  It  contains  a  large  quantity  of  rich  bottom  lands  and  prai^ 
ries,  and  is  one  of  the  best  agTicultural  sections  of  the  Territory. 

lioads. — Till  recently  the  travel  between  these  settlements,  all  located  upoi 
Gray's  harbor  or  the  Chehalis  river,  was  by  water.  The  road  from  Olympia,] 
on  Puget  scnind,  terminated  at  Cedar\-ille,  wliere  canoes  were  taken  for  the 
remaining  journey  to  Gray's  harbor,  altlioiigh  there  were  trails  along  the  banks 
of  the  river,  and  one  crossing  to  the  WiHojiah  settlement  in  Pacific  county. 
road  has  just  been  completeil  from  Satsoji  to  Olympia,  very  materially  shorten-^ 
ing  the  di^s^ance  between  tlie  lower  Chehalis  settlements  and  the  sound, 
beach  road  from  Chehalis  City  to  the  northern  cape  of  ShoalwaWr  bay  con-j 
nectcd  these  settlements  with  I'acific  county  and  Astoria,  Oregon. 

Clallam. — Population,  oOo  ;  assessed  value  of  jnoperty,  $97, 39o  31,-  area, 
1,720  square  miles;  number  of  acres  of  land  on  which  taxes  are  paid,  9,300. 
This  county  was  established  by  act  of  Washington  Ten-itory  legislature,  April 
26,  1854.  *  Its  full  northern  length  is  washed  by  the  Straits  of  Fuca,  and  its 
western  boundary,  about  40  miles  in  length,  borders  on  the  Pacific  ocean. 
Countv  scat,  New  Dungeness ;  post  offices  and  towns.  Port  Angelos  and  Nee-ah 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS  561 

Bay.  SlvirtiJig  tlu'  straits  fix>ui  the  o.'U'^t  l>onii(larv  to  near  Port  Ani^olos  there 
is  a  wiile  bolt  of  oxct'llent  laiul,  winch  is  very  (generally  occupied  by  settlers. 
The  river  bottoms  ^ue  very  rich,  and  the  openiiiij^  of  the  roads  IVom  the  straits 
to  tJie  Quilleluiyte  river  has  devehtped  the  existence  of  a  rich  section  of  land 
l!er<'tofore  unknown.  Most  of  the  travel  from  place  to  place  is  by  the  straits. 
A  r<iad  has  been  oj)ene<l  from  the  eastern  settlements  to  Port  Ano-elos,  and  short 
roads  connect  the  former  settlements  with  I'ort  Discovery  and  Port  Townsend. 

Clakke. — Population,  2,089;  assessed  value  of  property,  $G  11,057  ;  area, 
1,400  .'^cpiare  miles;  number  of  acres  of  land  on  which  taxes  are  paid,  94,7.31. 
Acres  planted  in  wheat,  9o2  ;  in  oats,  1,805  ;  in  rye,  52;  in  barley,  78;  in  peas, 
120;  in  potatoes,  215.  Lumber-  mills,  12;  flourincf  mills,  3;  schools,  26; 
clinrchcs,9;  stores,  31.  One  steam  vessel.  Horses,  1,039  ;  mules,  87  ;  cattle, 
3,080;  sheep,  4,463;  hogs,  1,469. 

■  This  is  the  oldest  co\uity  in  the  Territory.  The  provisional  govenrment  of 
Oregon,  June  27,  1844,  established  the  district  of  Vancouver,  embracing  all  of 
the  then  Oregon  Temtory  north  of  the  Columbia  river.  By  act  lender  same 
government,  December  22,  1845,  the  word  "county"  was  substituted  for  "dis- 
trict." Under  the  Oregon  territorial  government  the  name  of  "Clarke"  was 
adopted  in  place  of  "Vancouver."  County  seat,  city  of  Vancouver,  one  of  the 
most  thriving  settlements  in  the  Territory.  Here  was  established  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains.  The 
early  Catludic  missionaries,  in  1838,  first  commenced  their  labors  at  this  point. 
Early  after  the  treaty  of  1846  United  States  troops  amved  in  the  Temtory, 
sinc-e  which  time  it  has  been  occupied  as  a  military  post,  long  the  headquarters 
of  a  military  division  or  department. 

Towns  and  Post  Offices. — Lake  River,  Lincoln,  Pekin,  Union  Ridge,  and 
Washougal.  The  county  borders  the  Columbia  river,  and  is  about  equidistant 
from  the  Pacific  ocean  and  the  summit  of  the  Cascade  mountains.  The  settle- 
ments JU"e  connected  by  roads,  but  the  main  territorial  road  from  Fort  Vancouver 
to  Fort  Steilacoora,  passing  along  the  Columbia  river  to  the  Cowlitz,  at  certain 
seasons  is  inundated ;  from  this  fact  and  the  facility  of  travelling  on  the  Colum- 
bia this  road  has  onl}'  a,  nominal  existence. 

Co"VVLlTZ. — Population,  480  ;  assessed  value  of  property,  8186,079;  area,  460 
gqnare  miles  ;  number  of  acres  on  which  tax  is  jjaid,  20,918. 

This  county  lies  immediately  west  of  Clarke,  with  about  20  miles  of  shore 
line  on  the  Columbia  river,  with  25  miles  of  length  of  the  Cowlitz  river  trav- 
ersing it  north  and  south.  Its  southeast  corner  is  about  35  miles  east  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia  river.  Besides  the  valley  of  the  Cowlitz  several  tribu- 
taries of  that  liver  aflbrd  a  large  quantity  of  rich  bottom  land.  Nearly  one-third 
t.f  the  comity  is  included  in  tJ.ir'se  valleys.  A  short  distance  back  of  the  rivers 
large  tracts  of  unoccupied  lands  afford  great  indu(;ement  for  settlement.  No 
]»ortion  of  the  county  is  further  remcjved  from  either  the  Cowlitz  or  Columbia 
than  15  miles,  lience  access  to  market  is  insured.  The  whole  county  is  good 
soil.  Fifty  busl'cls  of  wheat  to  the  acre  is  not  an  unusual  yield  in  these  bottom 
lands.  This  county  was  set  off  from  Lewis  county  by  the  legislature  of  this 
Tenitory,  April  21,  1S54.  Montic(dlo  is  the  county  seat.  This  is  the  point  of 
departure  for  travel  from  the  Colnml)ia  river  to  Puget  sound.  Castle  Rock  and 
Oak  Point  are  the  remaining  post  olUces.  At  the  latter  point  is  located  Aber- 
nethy's  saw-mills,  at  which  about  4,000,000  feet  of  lumber  are  annually  manu- 
lactured.  There  is  also  a  small  saw-mill  on  the  Cowlitz  river  about  12  miles 
•  above  Jlonticello. 

L'oads. — TJiis  county  is  so  located  that  roads  from  the  Columbia  river  to 
Puget  sound  must  either  commence  in  or  pass  through  it.  Here  commences 
or  teiminates  the  land  travel  between  the  river  and  the  northern  settlements. 
The  military  road  from  Steilacoom  and  the  territorial  road  from  01ynq)ia  end  here, 
and  the  transit  to  Portland  or  Vancouver  is  completed  by  steamboats  via  the 
36 


562  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

river.  The  portion  of  road  between  Monticello  and  Vancouver  is  located;  bat 
scarcely  used.  The  old  Hudson's  Bay  trail,  which  comes  down  the  Columbia  river, 
may  be  travelled  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year,  and  was  much  used  for  driving 
stock,  but  even  they  are  now  most  generally  transported  in  barges  to  Monticello, 
towed  by  the  steamers.  On  the  east  side  of  Cowlitz  river  a  road  is  opened  con- 
necting all  the  settlements.  From  Monticello  to  Oak  Point,  and  from  Oak 
Point  to  Boisfort  prairie  in  Lewis  county,  roads  have  been  opened,  the  latter 
connecting  with  a  tenitorial  road  from  Boisfort  to  Olympia. 

Island. — Population  409;  assessed  value  of  property  $261,731;  area  250 
square  miles.  The  following  surplus  produce  remained  on  hand  May,  1867,  at 
time  of  annual  assessment,  which  indicates  the  producing  character  of  this  set- 
tlement: 1,416  tons  of  hay;  2,687  bushels  wheat;  15,815  bushels  barley; 
9,382  bushels  of  oats;  5,925  bushels  of  potatoes;  fruit  trees,  9,868;  horses, 
268;  cattle,  964;  sheep,  1,234;  hogs,  1,156. 

The  county  was  established  by  the  Oregon  teratorial  legislature,  January 
6,  1853.  It  consists  of  the  two  islands  of  Whidby  and  Camano.  The  county 
seat  is  Coupeville.  Towns  and  post  offices — Covcland,  Crescent  Harbor,  Oak 
Harbor,  and  Utsalada,  the  latter  of  which  places  is  the  site  of  the  extensive 
saw-mill  of  Messrs.  Greman  and  Craney,  on  Camano  island.  While  isolated 
from  the  remainder  of  the  Tenitory  the  settlements  on  Whidby's  island  are  con- 
nected by  good  roads. 

Jefferson. — Population,  650  ;  assessed  value  of  property,  $301,584  27  ; 
area,  1,670  square  miles.  Established  by  the  Oregon  territorial  legislature 
December  22,  1852. 

This  county  has  an  extensive  shore  line  upon  the  straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca  and 
Admiralty  inlet,  embracing  ports  Discovery,  Townsend,  and  Ludlow.  It  then 
extends  south  of  Clallam  county  to  the  Pacific  ocean.  On  ports  Discovery  and 
Ludlow  extensive  steam  saw-mills  are  located,  giving  employment  to  numerous 
hands  and  constituting  centres  of  population.  Port  Townsend,  on  the  bay  of 
that  name,  is  the  county  seat.  It  is  the  site  of  the  custom-house  of  the  district 
of  Puget  sound  ;  the  marine  hospital  is  Ipcated  here,  and  at  the  head  of  the  bay 
is  the  military  post,  (Fort  Townsend.)  The  bay  is  six  miles  long,  four  wide, 
and  an  excellent  harbor.  Towns  and  post  offices — Chemicun,  Port  Discovery, 
and  Port  Ludlow.  Water  transportation  is  relied  upon,  as  most  of  the  settle- 
ments are  in  the  vicinity  of  the  sound.  Roads  connect  Port  Townsend  with 
Port  Discovery,  and  with  the  prairie  settlements  back. 

King. — Population,  725;  assessed  value  of  property,  $414,043;  area,  1,800 
square  miles  ;  acres  luider  cultivation,  3,650.  Organized  by  the  Oregon  territo- 
rial legislature  December  22,  1852. 

In  this  comity  are  embraced  the  rich  agricultural  valleys  of  the  Dwamish, 
Wliite,  and  Green  rivers,  and  the  extensive  coal  fields  back  of  Lake  Washing- 
ton on  the  Squak,  Black,  Dwamish,  and  Green  rivers.  Seattle  is  the  county 
seat ;  a  thriving  town,  in  which  is  located  the  university  of  the  Territory.  Towns 
and  post  offices — Cedar  river  and  Freeport. 

JiocKls. — Seattle  is  connected  with  Steilacoom  by  a  good  wagon  road,  and  dur- 
ing the  i)ast  season  a  wagon  road  has  been  constructed  across  the  Snoqualmie 
pass  of  the  Cascade  mountains  into  the  Yakima  valley. 

Kitsap. — Population  610;  assessed  value  of  property,  $551,266;  area,  400 
square  miles. 

This  county  was  organized  by  act  of  the  legislative  assembly  of  this  Tenitory, 
passed  January  16,  1857,  under  the  name  of  Slaughter  county,  in  honor  of  the 
gallant  Lieutenant  W.  A.  Slaughter,  United  States  anny,  who  was  killed  in 
the  Indian  war  of  1855-56.  By  a  provision  in  the  bill  the  people  of  the  county 
were  authorized  to  vote  for  a  name  at  the  next  general  election,  (1857.)  At  such 
election  the  name  Kitsap  was  adopted  after  the  Indian  chief  whose  tribe  occu- 
pied considerable  portion  of  the  county,  one  of  the  most  prominent  and  able 


WEST    OF    THE    EOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  563 

of  tlic  loaders  of  tlic  liostilc  Indians.  Tho  county  may  ho  described  as  the 
]ieninsula  between  Hood's  canal  and  Admiralty  iidet,  inchiding  I'ainbiidi^-o  and 
Blake's  islands,  with  50  miles  of  shore  line  upon  Hood's  canal  and  80  ni)on 
Admiralty  inlet.  No  portion  of  tlic  connty  lies  further  from  navigal)l()  wat(ir 
than  four  miles.  This  county  is  noted  for  its  extensive  lumbering  mills.  Port 
Madison  is  the  county  seat,  on  the  excellent  harbor  of  that  name.  Towns  and 
2)ost  ttfficcs — Teekalet,  Seabec,  Port  Orchard,  and  Port  Blakely. 

lioad^!. — Between  Port  j\£adison  and  Teekalet  the  portage  is  made  by  a  road 
nine  miles  in  length.  Port  Orchard  to  Seabec,  a  distance  of  four  miles,  is 
made  over  <a  well-defined  trail.  Water  transportation  is  the  prevalent  method 
of  c<immnnication  between  the  settlers  themselves,  as  also  with  other  portions  of 
the  Territory. 

Klikitat. — Population,  300;  assessed  A-aluo  of  property,  $]  25,342;  area, 
1,850  square  m?les;  number  of  acres  of  land  on  which  taxes  are  paid,  0,778; 
established  by  legislative  assembly  of  this  Territory  December  20,  1859  ; 
county  seat,  Rockland.  The  Dalles  in  Oregon  is  the  post  office  for  this  whole 
region,  including  even  the  county  scat.  The  Yakima  Indian  reservation  and 
the  Simcoe  agency  are  located  in  this  county.  The  Indian  industiial  school, 
mider  management  of  Rev.  J.  H.  "Wilbur,  at  this  agency,  has  been  a  decided 
success. 

Lewis. — Population,  550  ;  assessed  value  of  property,  $268,095  ;  area,  1,580 
square  miles.  Established  by  the  Oregon  provisional  government  Deceinber 
21,  1845;  county  seat,  Claquato ;  towns  and  post  offices — Boisfort,  Cowlitz, 
Highland,  Newanknm,  Saunders,  and  Skookum  Chuck. 

This  county  is  one  of  the  best  agrictiltural  sections  west  of  the  Cascade  moun- 
tains. Thoroughly  watered  by  the  Cliehalis  and  Cowlitz  rivers  and  several  of 
their  tributaries,  its  prairies  and  rich  bottoms  oiler  great  inducement  to  settlement. 

IiOads. — The  territorial  road  and  .mail  route  from  Olympia  to  Monticello  runs 
through  the  wliole  Itreadth  of  this  county.  A  second  territorial  road,  crossing 
the  Skookum  Chuck  and  Xewankum  and  avoiding  the  Chehalis  river,  temiinates 
at  the  old  Co'\\litz  landing.  Boisfort  is  connected  with  Claquato  T)y  a  good 
wagon  road,  and  also  by  a  road  with  Mopali,  in  Paciiic  county. 

Masox. — Population,  219  ;  assessed  value  of  property,  844,480 ;  area,  1,600 
square  miles.  Organized  under  the  name  of  Sawamish  c(junty  by  the  Washing- 
ton Territory  legislature,  March  13,  1854.  Name  changed  to  Mason,  January 
8,  1864,  in  honor  of  the  memory  of  Mr.  Charles  H.  Mason,  deceased,  first  sec- 
retary of  the  Temtory  in  order  of  time  as  well  as  by  efficiency  of  service,  and 
long  and  ably  its  acting  governor.  Connty  seat,  Oakland.  Towns  and  post 
offices — Arkada,  Kamilchie,  Skokomish,  Sherwood's  mills,  and  Union  city.  A 
road  has  been  opened  from  Oakland,  near  the  head  of  Skookum  bay,  to  Olympia, 
whicli  is  used  for  driving  stock.  Water  communication,  by  the  sound  and  its 
several  l)ays,  is,  however,  the  usual  method,  and  in  the  present  location  of  settle- 
ments the  most  available. 

Pacific. — Population,  375;  assessed  value  of  jn-operty,  $135,568;  area,  1,140. 
Established  by  Oregon  territorial  legislature  February  4,  1857.  This  is  the 
southwestern  county  of  the  Territory,  bordering  on  the  Cobunl)ia  river  and  tlie 
Pacific  ocean,  its  great  specialty  the  basin  of  Shoahvater  l)ay.  It  is  noted 
for  its  oysters  and  fishenes.  An  extensive  establishment  for  the  maimfacture  of 
water  cement  has  just  l>een  completed  by  Mr.  J.  B.  Knapp,  on  the  Coluud>ia 
river,  about  two  miles  east  of  Chenook.  The  supply  of  rock  is  incxhausti])le. 
Preparations  are  made  to  supply  at  least  150  tons  per  month.  About  $20,000 
liave  been  expended  in  the  buildings  and  machinery. 

The  count}-  seat  of  Pacific  county  is  Oysterville.  Other  post  offices  and  town.s — 
Willopah,Bruceport,  Chenook,  and  Pacific  City. 

Pierce. — Population,  860;  assessed  value  of  property,  $508,806  50;  area, 
2,000  square  miles.     Organized  by  act  of  the  legislative  assembly  of  Oregon 


564  KESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

Temtoiy,  December  22,  1852.  In  tins  county  is  located  the  mammoth  claim 
of  the  Paget  Sound  Agricultural  Con)]jany  for  lands  appurtenant  to  Fort  Nis- 
qually,  called  the  Kisqually  claim.  Al>out  a  mile  east  of  the  city  of  Steilacoom 
the  United  States  fort  of  that  name  h  located.  From  this  point  commences  the 
military  road  to  Wullula  (the  old  fort  Walla-Walla)  via  the  Nachess  pass  of 
the  Cascade  mountains,  opened  by  the  people  of  Thurston  and  Pierce  comities 
in  the  summer  of  185.3,  and  an  appropriation  by  Congress  of  S20,000  expended 
upon  it  in  1854,  by  Lieutenant  Richar<l  Arnold,  United  States  army.  A  general 
idea  of  the  line  of  this  road  will  be  obtained  by  consulting  the  table  of  distances 
measured  by  odometer  at  the  time  of  construction.  The  points  designated  gen- 
erally indicate  camps  where  the  best  water  and  the  greatest  amount  of  wood  and 
grazing  may  bo  obtained.  The  first  colunni  of  figures  indicate  the  distance 
from  point  to  point,  and  the  second  the  distance  from  Steilacoom : 

Miles, 

ToPuvallup  river 22^  22^ 

First  ciossiDg  of  White  river 9jr  31 J 

Last  prairie  on  White  river 6^  38 

Second  crossing  of  White  river.. ]1^-  43| 

Sixth  crossing  of  White  river 5f  S.'jtV 

LaTete 3f  5?| 

First  crossing  of  Green  river 1|  6Ji 

Bare  Prairie af  63^ 

Last  crossing  Green  river  at  western  base  of  mountaiu 10^  7:* J 

First  prairie  on  summit  of  mountain 3f  77 -J- 

Last  prairie  on  summit  of  mountain 2-^  79^ 

First   crossing  of  Nachess  river 5|  84f 

Crossing  of  Fapattsally ]0^  9li 

Mouth  of  Bumping...-- 4|  9M 

Last  crossing  of  Nachess  river 11 J  11 1|- 

Wenass 10  121i 

Where  road  leaves  Wenass  valley IG  UTT^ 

First  crossing  of  Yakima  river 4  Mlj 

First  water  alter  leaving  Yakima  river ] 8f  ir(9| 

Second  water  after  leaving  Yakima  river 7^  167 

Brackish  Spring Kif  ]83f 

Great  Bend  of  the  Yakima 18^  202 

Near  mouth  of  Yakima 1.^)^  217;} 

Terminus  of  route,  opposite  Wallula 17j  234| 

The  road  from  Fort  Vancouver  passes  through  this  county,  continuing  to  Fort 
Bellingham  at  the  extreme  north  of  the  Territory,  though  not  travelled  beyond 
Seattle.  From  Steilacoom  to  this  latter  point  the  mails  are  carried  tri-weekly 
on  this  road.  The  settlements  scattered  tlirough  the  county  are  connected  with 
each  other  l»y  good  roads  permeating  the  county,  and  communicating  also  with  the 
farming  settlements  of  Thurston  and  King  counties. 

The  county  seat  is  Steilacoom.  Post  ollices — Franklin,  Nisqually,  and  Span- 
away  ;  the  former  named  being  the  post  ofllce  of  the  llourisliing  agricultural 
settlement  in  the  valley  of  the  Pnyallup.  Here,  also,  is  an  Indian  reservation, 
at  which  are  concentrated  most  of  the  tribes  of  the  head  of  Puget  sound. 

Skamania. — Population,  270;  assessed  value  of  property,  $260,365;  area, 
1,800  sipiare  miles  ;  organized  by  act  of  legislative  assembly,  Territory  of  Wash- 
ington, March  9,  1854.  This  is  a  mountainous  section,  there  being  but  little 
available  land  within  its  great  area  innnediately  bordering  on  the  Columbia 
river.  The  width  of  the  co\uity  eml)races  the  summit  of  the  Cascade  range;  in 
it  are  the  great  cascades  of  the  Columbia,  the  great  gorge  made  by  the  vast 
aggregation  of  the  waters  of  the  ui)per  Columbia  and  its  innumerable  confluents 
and  tributaries  forcing  an  exit  through  this  great  mountain  chain.  Through  this 
pass,  around  these  rajjids  and  falls,  the  first  railroad  west  of  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains was  constructed  to  avoid  these  obstructions  to  steamboat  navigation. 

Another  matter  worthy  of  remembrance  connected  with  this  county  was  the 
passage  by  the  legislative  assembly  of  this  Temtory  of  an  act  (January  14,  1865) 
dismembering  this  county  and  dividing  its  territory  between  Clarke  and  Klikitat  i 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  565 

coiuUies.  Congress  li;vvin<jf  in  the  ovixanic  act  vi'scrvcd  tlic  privilege  to  disprove 
territoriul  legislation,  annulled  said  law  of  the  assembly  of  llie  '^renitory,  (.June 
29,  IfSlUi,)  and  reinstated  Skamania,  eonnty ;  tlie  only  instance  in  territorial  legis- 
lation in  wliicli  Congress  lias  intervened. 

County  seat  is  Cascades.  By  this  is  lueant  Lower  Cascades;  tlu^  Upper  Cas- 
cades is  the  only  other  town.  J)oth  are  the  h'ri)ii)ii  of  the  Cascade  railroad  ;  both 
are  points  of  departure  for  the  steamboats  of  the  Oregon  8team  Navig'tition  Com- 
pany plying  up  or  down  the  Colum]>ia  river. 

The  narrow  stnp  of  land  over  which  the  railroad  })asses  afh>rds  but  little  rooiu 
for  any  other  road.  There  is,  however,  a  military  road  from  Fort  Vancouver 
(called  iu  the  Jict  of  Congress  making  the  appropriation  for  its  construction, 
Columbia  City  barracks)  to  Fort  Ualles.  Tliis  road  affords  land  communication 
))etween  the  Cascades  and  the  settlements  of  Clarke  county,  but  travel  by  tho 
river  almost  the  universal  mode  of  communication. 

SxoiiOMiSH. — Population,  285;  assessed  value  of  property,  $69,022  86;  area, 
1,5(X)  square  miles;  acres  under  cultivation,  1,200;  organized  by  act  of  Wash- 
iiiirton  Territory  legislatmx',  January  14,  1861.  This  county  is  noted  for  the 
pine  timber  which  skirts  its  numerous  streams,  which  are  resorted  to  by  logging- 
camps.  These  camps  are  transitory  and  made  up  entirely  of  males,  and  hence 
the  gTcat  preixmch'rance  of  nvale  population.  This  also  a(;coiuits  for  the  fact 
that  at  ditl'ereni  periods  such  discrepancies  arise  in  attempted  estimates  of  popu- 
lation. 

The  county  seat  is  Suohomish  City;  Muckelteo  and  Tulalip  (the  latter  the 
site  of  the  Indian  reser\-ation)  are  the  other  post  offices  in  this  county. 

Steven's. — ^l*opulation,  550;.  assessed  value  of  propert}-,  $200,579;  area, 
28,000  square  miles ;  acres  under  cultivation,  2,500.  This  county  embraces 
over  one-thii-d  of  the  area  of  the  Territory-,  lying  upon  both  sides  of  the  Columbia 
and  between  the  Cascade  mountains  and  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  Territory. 
On  the  29th  January,  1S58)  the  present  county  of  Stevens  and  the  territory 
included  within  the  county  of  Yakima  were  erected  into  a  county  by  the  legis- 
lature of  this  Temtory.  No  organization  being  ctl'ected  under  said  act  the  legis- 
latm-e  passed  a  similar  law  January  27,  1862,  constituting  the  before  described 
territory  into  Spukane  county.  On  the  20th  Jaiuiary,  1863,  the  territory  east 
of  the  Columbia  was  set  ofi'  and  erected  into  a  separate  county,  and  named 
Stevens  county  in  honor  of  the  late  General  Isaac  I.  Stevens,  AVashington's 
first  and  most  distinguished  governor.  January  19,  1864,  Stevens  and  Spokane 
counties  were'  consolidated  and  the  name  of  Stevens  ascribed  to  the  united  terri- 
tory. To  attempt  a  description  of  this  large  and  interesting  icgion,  would  be 
to  renew  the  notice  of  the  great  plain  of  the  Columl>ia,  the  Spokane  jdains,  the 
Grand  Coulee,  the  Colville  valley,  all  of  which  have  been  extendedly  noticed 
in  the  preceding  geographic  memoir,  which  is  referred  to  as  largely  applicable 
to  this  county. 

The  co\mtv  seat  is  Pinckney  City.  There  are  other  settlements  and  towns 
at  various  points,  but  it  alone  is  a  post  office. 

lioads. — Wagon  roads  from  Walla-AValla  to  C(dville;  from  "White  Bluffs  to 
Lake  Pen  d'Oreille,  the  MuUan  road ;  a  road  from  the  Dalles  through  the  Yakima 
valley,  and  on  the  west  side  of  the  Cohnnbia,  to  Colville,  and  roa<ls  connecting 
with  the  ])asses  of  the  Cascade  mountains  traverse  this  region,  and  are  much 
travelled  by  miners  and  parties  driving  stock  into  British  Colund)ia  and  to  the 
Pen  d'Oreille  and  other  mining  regions. 

TnuKSTOX. — Population,  2,045;  assessed  A^alue  of  projjcrty,  $776,022  75; 
area,  072  square  miles;  number  of  acres  on  wdiich  taxes  are  paid,  82,522  ;  cattle, 
2,691;  sheep,  7,877;  hogs,  696.  Esta])lished  by  act  of  Oregon  territorial  gov- 
ernment, January  12,  1852.  County  seat,  Olynq)ia,  the  seat  of  goveriunent  of 
the  Temtory.  At  Turnwater,  in  this  county,  the  first  American  settlement  north 
of  the  Columbia  was  made  in  the  fall  of  1845. 


566  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

Post  Offices  and  Towns. — Beaver,  Cliamber's  Praiiie,  Coal  Bank^  Miami,  Grand 
Mound,  and  TuniAvater. 

lioads. — Olynipia  being  tlic  liead  of  Paget  sound,  water  comTuunication  from 
the  northern  settlements,  Victoria  and  British  Columbia,  and  the  land  travel 
from  the  Columbia  river  northward,  temiinates  at  this  point.  Here,  then,  may 
be  said  to  start  the  great  thoroughfare  of  communication  between  the  sound  and 
Columbia  river,  terminating  at  Monticello,  where  steamboat  navigation  is  resumed. 
Tliere  are  no  less  than  three  routes  within  this  county  southward  to  Skookum 
Chuck,  two  thence  to  the  Cowlitz  river — one  (the  military  road)  continuing  down 
the  Cowlitz  to  Monticello;  an  excellent  wagon  road  connects  with  Steilacoom 
and  thence  to  Seattle.  This  county  is  admirably  adapted  for  roads,  and  the 
settlements  are  all  accessible  by  well  defined  and  good  roads. 

Wahkiakum. — Population,  63 ;  assessed  value  of  property,  $9,653  33;  area, 
225  square  miles.  Established  by  act  of  Washington  legislature,  April  25,  1854. 
Cathlamette  is  the  county  seat,  and  post  office  for  the  whole  county.  This  county 
borders  on  the  Columbia  river  just  east  of  Pacific  county.  Tiie  gi'eatest  portion 
is  rough  and  mountainous,  confining  settlements  to  the  liver  front.  The  timber 
is  of  an  excellent  quality  and  most  abundant,  but  agricultural  tracts  are  few  and 
not  extensive.  i 

Walla-Walla. — Population,  3,500 ;  assessed  value  of  property,  $1,762,816 ; 
area,  8,000  square  miles;  acres  of  land  on  which  taxes  are  paid,  21,152;  acres 
in  corn,  2,307;  acres  in  wheat,  7,729;  acres  in  oats,  4,045;  acres  in  barley,  1,125; 
acres  in  timothy,  568.  In  1866  the  yield  wasas  follows :  Wheat,  500,000  bushels ; 
oats,  250,000  bushels;  barley,  200,000  bushels;  corn,  150,000  bushels;  beans, 
170,000  pounds.  Six  flouring  mills,  six  saw-mills,  two  planing  mills,  two  dis- 
tilleries, one  foundry,  52  threshing,  lieading  and  reaping-  machines. 

The  act  of  assembly  of  this  Territory  creating  this  county  passed  April  25, 
1854.  It  then  included  all  the  territory  between  the  Cascade  mountains  and 
the  Rocky  moiuitains  and  the  46th  and  49th  parallels,  excepting  thereout  a 
fra<;tion  of  Skamania  and  the  county  of  Klikitat.  Settlers  were  scattered  through 
this  vast  region,  but  so  widely  apart  that  no  organization  was  at  the  time 
attempted.  The  Indian  war  of  1855-'56  caused  many  to  abandon  the  region. 
At  its  close.  Colonel  Steptoe  issued,  to  say  the  least,  a  most  remarkable  order, 
dated  August  20,  1856,  that  "no  emigrant  or  other  white  person,  excejjt  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Conqiany,  or  persons  having  ceded  rights  from  the  Indians,  ■will 
be  permitted  to  settle  or  remain  in  the  county."  This  emanated  from  Major 
General  Woul,  then  commander  of  the  Pacific  military  department.  This  decree 
of  expatriation  and  forbidding  of  settlement  continued  till  the  spring  of  1859, 
when  Major  Grier,  United  States  dragoons,  consented  that  the  rich  valley  of  the 
Walla-Walla  might  be  occupied  by  American  settlers.  Its  growth  and  progress 
dates  from  that  period,  and  it  is  now  the  most  populous  and  wealthy  county  in 
the  Territory. 

The  county  seat  is  the  city  of  Walla- Walla,  the  largest  town  in  Washington 
Ten-itory.  I'ost  offices — Coppei,  Mullan's  Bridge,  Touchet,  Wallula,  all  centres 
of  thriving  settlements. 

lioads. — Wallula  (the  old  Fort  Walla- Walla)  was  the  point  where  the  great 
emigrant  route  coming  into  Oregon  struck  the  Columi)ia  river.  It  is  now  the 
eaifitern  terminus  of  usual  steam  navigation  on  the  Columbia,  though  occasignal 
trips  at  favorable  stages  of  water  are  continued  as  far  as  White  Bluffs.  In 
])rimeval  days  the  emigrants  c(jntinued  down  the  river  in  boats  or  on  a  road  along 
the  river  to  the  Dalles.  In  1853,  a  road  was  constructed  from  this  point,  or 
rather  from  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  via  Yakima  valley  and  Nachess  Pass, 
to  Fort  Sti'ilacoom,  on  Puget  sound.  A  good  wagon  road,  travelled  daily  by 
coaches,  connects  it  with  AValla- Walla  City,  30  miles  east.  During  the  past 
year  a  road  ( Wastuckna  wagon  road)  connects  it  with  the  forks  of  Mullan's  road 
and  the  wagon  road  from  "Walla- Walla  to  Colville,  insuring  direct  commuuica- 


i 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  567 

tion  from  Wallula  to  Colville  or  Fort  Benton.  This  road  is  in  length  58  miles. 
The  distance  via  Walla-Walla,  from  Wallula  to  same  point,  was  100  iniles. 

Walla- Walla  is  a  centre  from  which  roads  diverge  in  all  directions,  conn(>ct- 
ing  the  settlements  of  the  county  with  each  other,  and  affording  routes  to  Fort 
Benton,  on  the  Missouri,  (by  IMullan's  military  ri>ad,)  to  Fort  Oidville,  Lewiston, 
and  Boise,  to  Lake  Pen  d'Oreille,  and  to  the  rich  mining  regions  oi  Montana. 

WnATCOM. — Population,  244  ;  assessed  value  of  jiroperty,  S42,522  50 ;  area, 
4,300  scjuare  miles;  organized  by  act  of  Washington  legislature,  March  9,  1854. 
This  is  the  northernmost  of  the  Puget  Sound  counties.  Within  is  Bellingham 
bay,  the  shores  of  which  are  so  noted  for  their  extensive  and  valuable  coal  mines, 
which  are  fully  noticed  in  an  article  upon  the  coal  fields  of  the  Territory. 

County  seat,  Whatcom ;  post  offices,  San  Juan,  on  the  disputed  island  of  that 
name,  and  Swinamish. 

Yakima. — Population,  125 ;  assessed  value  of  property,  $68,676  28 ;  area, 
7,000  square  miles;  organized  under  act  of  assembly  of  Washington  legislature, 
January  21,  1865.  It  embraces  the  Yakima  valley  proper  lying  between  the 
Wenachee  river  and  the  northern  boundary  of  Klikitat  county.  This  and  the 
neighboring  valleys,  passing  under  the  general  cognomen  of  the  Yakima  country, 
are  the  best  stock  raising  region  in  the  Territory  ;  fine  soil,  excellent  grass,  and 
mild  winters,  with  occasional  very  short  feeding  seasons,  never  exceeding  between 
one  and  two  months.  Several  extensive  stock  ranches  are  already  commenced, 
and  large  bands  of  cattle  are  owned  in  this  valley.  The  county  seat  is  on  Colonel 
Thorp's  claim  on  the  Yakima,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Atahnam,  and  not  far  from 
the  old  Catholic  mission.  Thirty-five  miles  above,  at  the  foot-liills  of  the  Cas- 
cade mountains,  is  the  Kitatash  valley,  40  miles  in  length  and  15  in  width,  well 
watered  by  the  Yakima  and  its  tributaries,  abundantly  though  not  heavily  tim- 
bered, and  of  excellent  soil.  The  new  road  opened  the  past  season  from  Seattle 
through  the  Snoqualmie  Pass  runs  through  this  valley,  joins  the  Nachess  mili- 
tary road  at  Thorp's,  and  as  one  road  they  continue  to  Wallula.  The  road  from 
the  Dalles,  Oregon,  to  the  Wenachee,  Pen  d'Oreille,  and  mines  of  the  upper 
Columbia,  crosses  the  Yakima  river  about  25  miles  below  Thorp's,  and  passes 
through  the  whole  breadth  of  this  county. 

The  post  ofiice  for  the  county  is  the  Dalles,  Oregon,  from  wliicli  it  is  separated 
by  the  Columbia  river,  the  width  of  Klikitat  county,  the  Simcoe  mountains,  and 
the  Yakima  river.  A  county  containing  200  inhabitants,  with  more  inducc- 
ment.s  for  inunediate  settlement  than  almost  any  portion  of  the  Territory  in  con- 
secpience  of  mineral  resources,  rich  agricultural  tracts,  and  salubrious  climate, 
ought  to  have  one  post  office  and  one  post  route. 


SECTIOX   II. 

MINERAL    RESOURCES. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  Columbia  river  from  the  Dalles  the  country  is  broken 
and  hilly  to  the  Klikitat  river,  which  empties  into  the  Columbia  above  the 
Dalles.  In  the  Klikitat  valley  there  is  considerable  farming,  and  a  large 
amount  of  grazing  land,  with  small  i)atches  of  pines  and  fir.  The  Cascade 
range  of  mountains  is  well  supplied  with  forests  of  pine  and  fir,  except  the  highest 
peaks,  as  Mount  Adams,  St.  Helens,  and  Ilanier,  which  are  covered  with  ])er- 
petual  snow,  and  consequently  are  entirely  baiTcn. 

Along  the  foot  of  the  mountains  from  the  Dalles  to  the  Nachess,  the  wlu^le 
countiy  is  volcanic,  with  nt>  minerals  of  value.  On  the  head  of  the  South  Fork 
of  Yakima  river  a  conglomerate  is  found,  composed  of  ])ebblcs  and  boulders  of 
sandstone  and  granite,  with  small  masses  of  quaiiz.     When  this  has  been  disiu- 


568  EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TEKRITOEIES 

tegrated  a  trace  of  gold  has  been  found.  To  the  north  of  the  Nache33  quartz 
veins  exist,  but  they  are  generally  small  and  barren.  Gold  is  rarely,  thougli 
occasionally  found  in  them.  Further  north,  near  lake  Chelan,  some  diggings  have 
been  discovered,  which,  however,  did  not  pay  wages. 

On  the  Columbia  river,  above  Priest  rapids,  a  number  of  the  bars  paid  fair 
wages  for  a  short  time.  The  gold  was  very  fine,  and  had  evidently  been  moved 
a  long  distance  by  the  action  of  the  Avater.  The  eastern  slope  of  the  Cascade 
range  in  this  Territory  has  been  pretty  thoroughly  prospected  for  gold.  Except 
in  the  instances  before  mentioned,  none  has  been  found.  There  is  a  large  amount 
of  good  grazing  and  fanning  lands,  but  no  mining.  In  the  northeastern  portions 
of  the  Territory,  about  Fort  Colville,  mines  have  been  worked,  though  not 
profitably.  In  the  regions  adjacent  to  the  Rocky  mountains,  doubtless  good  mine* 
wall  yet  be  found. 

Coal. — The  appearance  of  veins  and  outcroppiiags  of  coal  in  almost  every 
section  of  the  Territory  Avest  of  the  Cascade  mountains  indicates  its  very  general 
distribution  and  inexhaustive  supply.  It  is  found  on  the  Columbia,  as  also  upon 
streams  emptying  directly  into  the  Pacific;  it  appears  at  Clallam  bay,  just  within 
the  tStraits  of  Fuca ;  following  round  our  inland  sea,  we  find  it  in  oxhaustles* 
fields  back  of  Seattle,  then  upon  the  Sto-luraua-mah,  and  at  Bellingliam  bay,  in 
the  extreme  north.  Its  presence  at  intermediate  sections  within  an  area  bounded  by 
the  above  designated  points  upon  the  Cowlitz  and  Skookum  Chuck,  the  Chehalis,. 
and  on  the  Dwamish,  Black,  and  Green  livers  attests  its  thorough  and  univer- 
sal difi"asing;  the  continuity  of  the  strata  through  this  whole  region. 

George  Gibbs,  favorably  known  to  the  scientific  world,  and  highly  regarded  by 
his  fellow-citizens  of  his  adopted  Territory,  thus  alludes  to  the  universality  of 
coal  indications : 

The  whole  of  this  formation  lias  been  considered  by  geologists  as  tertiary,  and  the  coal 
as  not  belonging  to  the  true  coal.  Be  this  as  it  may,  its  value  for  economical  purpose  is 
unquestionable.  Even  that  on  the  Cowlitz  and  Skookum  Chuck,  though  inferior  to  the  pro- 
duct of  the  Dwamish  and  Bellingham  bay  mines,  was  abandoned  only  from  its  not  being 
accessible  to  tide-water. 

A  singular  circumstance  in  connection  with  this  subject  has  been  noticed  at  the  southern 
end  of  Whidby's  inland.  A  crevice  in  the  earth  exists  there,  from  which  smoke  constantly 
ascends,  rising  undoubtedly  from  the  burning  of  a  bed  of  coal  or  lignite  beneath.  The  clay 
around  its  edge  is  said  to  be  baked  of  a  brick  red.  It  has  been  burning  since  the  settlement 
of  the  country,  and  is  popularly  called  a  volcano. 

No  scientitic  exploration  whatever  has  been  made  of  this  region,  nor  even  such  an  exami- 
nation of  particular  beds  as  to  justify  any  opinion  respecting  their  value.  Such  experiments 
as  have  been  tried  indicate  that  f«r  steaming  purposes  the  quality  of  the  coal  is  very  good, 
but  to  what  extent  the  beds  can  bo  worked  is  not  settled.  They  appear  on  the  edge  of  the 
water,  most  of  them  not  above  the  high  tides  of  winter,  and  it  would  seem  that  they  dip 
slightly  in  shore,  as  well  as  in  a  direction  parallel  to  it.  From  the  appearance  of  upturned 
edges  of  sandstone  between  high  and  low-water  mark,  it  is  conjectured  that  the  coal  extends 
beneath  the  surface  of  the  bay,  and  that  to  the  north  of  it  it  will  be  perhaps  found  in  place 
and  in  the  natural  position  of  the  strata.  The  formation  commences  at  the  Columbia  river, 
where  lignite  or  brown  coal  is  found  in  thin  seams,  and  extends  continuously  northward  to  a 
great  distance,  the  quality  of  the  coal  improving  in  that  direction. 

Bellixgham  Bat  ]\[iis^es. — These  mines  are  located  in  the  extreme  north  of 
the  Territory,  and  have  already  acquired  a  wide-spread  reputation,  not  only  for 
their  extent,  l)ut  also  for  the  cpiality  of  the  coal.  In  the  fall  of  1852,  Captain 
William  Pattle,  then  engaged  upon  a  contract  to  funiish  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany with  timber  from  Lopez  island,  crossed  over  to  the  shore  of  Bellingham 
bay  in  search  of  suitable  trees  for  his  purpose ;  while  walking  along  the  beach, 
he  observed  several  seams  of  coal.  Himself  and  two  parties  working  with  him 
(Messrs.  Mon-ison  and  Thomas)  each  innnediately  located  adjoining  claims  of 
160  acres,  fronting  upon  the  bay,  under  the  provisions  of  the  donation  law,  then 
in  force  in  this  Temtory.  The  northernmost  one  was  taken  by  Pattle;  it  is 
next  south  of  the  claim  on  which  the  present  town  of  Sehome  is  erected ;  the 
other  claims  were  taken  in  the  order  named. 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  569 

Messrs.  Pattle,  ^lonison  &  I'lioinas  leased  th(>st>  claims  to  a  San  Francisco 
ctmipany,  who  sent  Captain  Williani  A.  Howard  (now  of  tlio  United  States 
revenue  service  on  duty  at  Sitka)  to  the  bay  as  superintendent.  A  vein  was 
openi'd  on  the  "  Jlorrison  claim/' called  the  "  Ma-nioosie  mine/'  from  wliicli  a  car^o 
ol"  l->0  tons  was  taken  out,  when  the  enterprise  was  abandoned.  Geori;-o  Gibi)s, 
es«p,  the  geologist  of  the  western  branch  of  the  Northern  I'acilic  Railroad  Explo- 
ration, thus  sj)eaks  of  it,  March  1,  1S54  : 

Tho  seam  which  had  been  most  worked,  tliat  known  as  the  Ma-moosie  mine,  %ya8  altogether 
eight  feet  tlnough,  but  divided  by  three  feet  of  clay  and  slate,  leaving  onlyuu  equal  amount 
of  workable  coal.  A  drill  had  been  carried  in  about  175  feet,  the  quality  improving  somewhat. 
About  \M  tons  only  had  beeu  got  out,  which  was  mostly  O'U  board  a  vessel  bound  to  Sau 
Francisco. 

The  ''Pattle  claim"  has  upon  it  a  vein  11  feet  thick.  No  attempts,  however, 
have  been  made  to  develop  it,  except  that  Captain  Pattle  himself  took  out  bv 
hand  a  small  quantity  of  coal.  The  claim  now  belongs  to  Heuben  L.  Dojle,  escj., 
of  Whidby's  island.  The  "Thomas  claim"  is  settled  upon  by  Daniel  W.  Han'is, 
who  has  occupied  it  since  its  abandouinent  by  Thomas.  In  it  are  two  seams 
visible  from  the  beach.  No  real  attempt  at  work  has  ever  been  done  upon  this 
claim. 

In  18G0,  Morrison  sold  his  claim  to  Charles  E.  Richards,,  esq.,  (to  -whom  as 
assignee  the  United  States  government  issued  patent  in  1866.)  In  1860,  Mr. 
Richards  associated  with  him  several  gentlemen  under  the  name  of  the  Union 
Coal  Company.  They  opened  a  vein  and  sunk  a  shaft  about  100  feet.  The 
vein  worked  was  but  two  feet  in  thickness,  although  there  was  another  of 
eight  or  nine  feet  upon  the  claim.  That  company  took  out  and  shipped  to  San 
Francisco  an  aggregate  of  about  2,500  tons.  This  claim  has  lately  l)een  trans- 
feiTcd  to  a  company  in  New  York,  who  propose  the  present  fall  to  commence  a 
thorough  system  of  operations. 

The  mine  of  the  Bellingham  Bay  Company  is  the  mine  upon  which  the  repu- 
tation of  this  whole  region  has  heretofore)  depended.  It  is  situate  between  the 
towns  of  Sehonie  and  liVhatcom,  on  the  shore  of  the  bay,  about  two  miles  north 
and  cast  of  Pattle's  discovery.  The  vein  had  been  laid  bare  by  the  blowing 
down  of  a  large  tree.  Claims  were  at  once  taken  by  the  discoverers,  Messrs. 
Brown  and  Hewitt,  in  the  fall  of  1853.  Late  that  fall  several  gentlemen  of 
San  Francisco  formed  the  Bellingham  Bay  Company,  and  sent  Captain  W.  II. 
Fauntleroy  and  Calhoun  Benhara,  esq.,  to  examine  the  mines.  They  purchased 
the  two  claims  for  818,000.  Colonel  E.  C  Fitzhugh^  afterwards  judge  of  the 
supreme  court  of  this  Territory,  was  for  several  years  the  superintendent,  and  up 
to  1800  the  shipment  of  coal  to  San  Francisco  averaged  about  500  tons  per  year. 
In  1860  the  old  Bellingham  Bay  Company  leased  these  mines  to  Moody  and 
Sinclair,  granting  to  the  lessees  the  privilege  of  taking  out  1,000  tons  per  month. 
But  the  yield  exceeded  that  quantity;  theii-  exi)ortation  the  first  year  amounted 
to  not  less  than  15,000  tons,  which  gradually  increased  each  subsequent  year. 
In  1866  the  present  management  commenced,  with  Colonel  A.  llayward,  the 
modem  Croesus,  holding  the  contnding  interest.  R.  E.  Myers,  esq.,  is  resident 
superintendent.  The  tlelays  in  the  fall  of  1866,  incident  to  the  change  of  man- 
agers, caused  a  suspension  of  active  mining  operations.  By  the  time  matters 
were  satisfactorily  adjusted  the  mine  took  tu-e,  the  extinguishment  of  which  ])r('- 
vented  the  resumption  of  mining  tLU  June,  1867.  Indeed,  now  (September  1) 
the  lower  gallery  is  not  yet  completely  pumped  out.  This  company  own  about 
3,000  acres  of  land  in  com}>act  form,,  and  have  expended  in  improvements  not 
less  than  8100,000.  Tlie  shaft  is  about  500  feet  deep,  tlie  slope  at  an  angle  of 
45°,  decreasing  as  you  descend  ;  the  first  gallery  300  feet  down,  and  the  one 
DOW  being  worked  extends  some  600  yards.  The  lower  gallery,  which  is  still 
being  pumped  out,  (though  in  it  operations  will  soon  be,  if  they  are  not  already, 


570 


RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 


renewed,)  has  been  worked  to  the  distance  of  600  yards.  It  is  in  contemplation 
this  fall  to  Aviden  the  slope  to  admit  a  double  track,  enabling  the  simultaneous 
descent  and  ascent  of  cars  into  and  from  the  mine.  About  100  tons  per  day  are 
now  being  taken  out,  but  aiTangements  are  in  progress  by  which  the  daily  yield 
will  be  increased  to  400  tons.  The  present  cost  per  ton  to  put  on  shipboard  is 
about  $3.  Practical  miners  express  the  opinion  that  if  the  claim  \nxs  worked 
further  from  the  beach  there  would  be  less  slate,  the  coal  would  be  clearer,  and 
the  expense  per  ton  could  be  materially  reduced  by  the  cleaning  process  being 
rendered  unnecessary. 

Mr.  John  Hewston,  well  known  on  the  Pacific  coast  as  a  leading  chemist, 
analyzed  this  coal  in  October,  1858.     The  following  is  his  report: 

Specific  gravity 1.  309 

Water  (liygsoscopic) 5.  60  per  cent. 

Dry  coal 04.40 

The  dry  coal  consists  of — 

Carbon 74.41 

Hydrogen 4. 63 

Oxygen,  nitrogen,  and  sulphur 17.61 

Ashes  (red) 3.  35 


100.  00 

Amount  of  coke  procured 62. 60  per  cent. 

Subjoined  is  a  copy  of  the  analysis  of  various  samples  of  Welsh,  Newcastle,  and  Scotch 
coals,  with  which  it  will  be  seen  the  analysis  of  the  sample  from  Bellingham  bay  compares 
very  favorably : 


Locality  or  name  of  coal. 


U) 

a 
o 

1 

1.31 

88.28 

1.31 

90. 27 

1.29 

81.81 

1.31 

80. 2G 

1.25 

80.61 

1.2.5 

81.85 

1.23 

80.75 

1.25 

82.24 

1.20 

7t;.09 

1.31 

7G.94 

1.28 

74.55 

1.31 

74.41 

•^  5 


WELCH. 

Aberdare  Go's  Methyr 

Nixon'«  Metbyr 

NEWCASTLE  COALS. 

Newcastle  Hartley 

Healey's  Hartley  

BiitCH'  W<!st  Han  ley  

West  Hartley  Main  

Buddies'  West  Hartley 

Hastings'  Hartley 

SCOTCH. 

Wallgend  Elgin  Vein 

Dalkeith  Coronation  Vein 

Dalkeith  Jewel  Vein 

Bellingham  Bay 


r>.  50 

5.  .55 

5.28 

5.34 

.5.  26 

9.88 

5.29 

10.35 

5.04 

ia36 

5.42 

9.40 

5.22 

7.99 

5.20 

14.75 

5.14 

15.94 

4.63 

17.61 

3.16 
1.25 


7.14 
9.12 
4.25 
2.51 
3.85 
2.94 


10.70 
3.10 
4.37 

3.35 


85.83 
79.11 


64.  CI 
72. 31 


59.20 
'55."  60 


58.45 
53.05 
49.80 

62. 66 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS- 


571 


The  test  for  the  calorilic  value  of  this  sample  of  eonl  shows  it  to  eompare  very  favorably 
with  the  stiiiie  co'ils,  as  will  be  seen  by  reference  to  the  following  tabic  : 


Name  and  locality  of  coal. 


WELCH. 

Abi-rdarc  Go's  M'-thyr 

NKWCASTLE  COALS. 

Newcastle  Hartley 

Carr's  Hartley 

Healy's  Hartley 

SteamlMut  Wallsend 

SCOTCH. 

■Wellwood 

Eglintou 

Beltjsgham  Bay , 


Pounds  of  water    Pounds  of  water 


whioh  1  pound 
of  coal  is  capa- 
ble of  elevating 
from  :iS-^  to  ^12° 
Fahrenheit. 


which  1  pound 
of  coal  is  capa- 
ble of  evapor- 
alinj?  from  212' 
Fahrenheit. 


13. -12 

r.).  Ill 

12.78 
12.13 


11.94 
10.24 


STo-LU-AFA-iTAH  CoAL. — This  cxists  ill  workable  seams,  but  at  present 
seems  inaccessible  to  market.  A  specimen  was  sent  by  Commodore  C.  W. 
Skinner,  United  States  navy,  to  Professor  Walter  R.  Johnson  for  analysis. 
Tliat  distinguished  chemist  thus  speaks  of  it : 

It  seems  to  be  one  of  the  finest  Anieriean  coals  which  I  have  yet  seen.  It  has  a  specific 
gravity  of  l.ol.5,  and  will  weigh,  in  the  merchantable  state,  from  51  to  55  pounds  per  cubic 
foot,  according  to  size  of  lumps,  and  will  require  on  board  a  steamer  about  42^  feet  of  space 
to  stow  one  gross  ton.  It  is  of  brilliant  lustre,  wholly  free  from  liability  to  soil.  It  is  com- 
posed of — 

Volatile  matter 40.36 

Fi.xed  carbon 5G.  84 

Earthy  matter 2.80 

100.00 


After  the  luminous  flame  ceases  the  coke  burns  with  a  bright  glow,  and  leaves  a  light 
brick  red,  or  salmon-colored  ash. 

In  coking,  the  coal  scarcely  increases  in  bulk,  has  no  tendency  to  agglutinate,  and  conse- 
quently preserves  an  open  tire,  burning  freely,  and  does  not  cover  itself  with  ashes  to  such  a 
degree  a.s  materially  to  obstruct  the  combustion.  I  suspect  the  specimen  sent  to  have  been 
taken  from  near  the  outcrop  of  the  bed.  If  so,  we  may  reasonably  expect  that,  when  pur- 
sued under  greater  covering,  the  amount  of  illuminating  gas  given  out  will  be  greater  than 
was  shown  by  this  specimen.  The  coal  seems  to  be  nearly  free  from  sulphur.  The  ratio  of 
its  fixed  to  its  volatile  combustible  matter  is  1.4  to  1,  and,  under  a  well-constructed  boiler, 
ought  to  jiroduce  f.-oni  seven  and  a  half  to  eight  and  a  half  pounds  of  steam  from  2\2^  to 
one  pound  of  coal  burned. 

TuE  Skookum  CnucK  Coal  Fields. — The  late  Dr.  R.  II.  Bigelow,  who 
was  thorou£jhly  conversant  witli  coal,  and  afterwards  opened  a  mine  in  tho 
Aacinity  of  Seattle,  made  an  examination  of  these  veins,  lie  thus  describes  tlie 
geological  position  of  the  coal : 

Resting  upon  argillaceous  and  sandstone  shale,  overlaid  by  new  rod  sandstone,  averaging 
(sand.stone  and  earth)  :?U  to  .5(1  feet  thick,  inter.spersed  with  ochre,  reil  chalk,  ami  a  grayish- 
brown  clay — such  as  is  used  in  Europe  for  making  fire-brick — the  average  thickness  of  the 
coal  strata  being  from  tour  to  nine  feet.  The  coal,  when  ignited,  retains  a  llame  of  tho 
greatest  lervency,  leaves  no  cinder,  and  is  perfectly  free  from  all  foreign  isubstances. 

Clallam  Bay  Mixe,  sometimes  called  the  Thorndike  mine,  after  its  dis- 
coverer. Captain  J.  K.  Thonidike,  fonnerly  of  Port  Ludlow,  Washington  Ter- 
ritory-, is  situated  on  the  Straits  of  Fuca,  about  midway  between  l^illar  bay  and 


'672  EESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

Clallam  bay,  23  miles  east  of  Cape  Flattery.     Captain  Thorndike  tliu»  describes- 
his  discovery : 

The  heiglit  of  the  mountain  is  from  1,000  to  1,200  feet ;  the  formation  is  sandstone.  Six 
leads  of  coal,  ranging  in  thickness  from  one  to  three  feet,  dip  10  degrees,  distance  between 
coal  leads  ranging  from  12  to  100  feet.  From  high-water  mark,  30  feet ;  to>  low-water  mark, 
150  feet.     From  coal  leads  to  five  fathoms'  w.ater,  about  600  feet. 

An  officer  on  tte  United  States  steamer  Massaclinsetts  thus  speaks  of  the 
character  of  this  coal : 

I  find  it  superior  to  any  coal  I  have  seen  on  thi^  coast,  with  one  exception — that  is  its 
rapidity  of  combustion.  It  leaves  about  five  per  cent,  of  clinker,  which,  with  proper  tools, 
can  easily  be  removed  from  the  grates.  The  weight  is  47  pounds  per  cubic  foot,  and  deposits, 
including  clinker,  about  30  per  cent,  by  measure.  It  compares  with  Cumberland  coal  for 
weight  against  equal  bulk  as  8  to  10  ;  evaporative  efBciency,  6  to  10. 

An  analysis  of  a  specimen  of  this  coal  by  Professors  J.  H.  Alexander  and 
Campbell  Morfitt  exhibits  the  following  result : 

Specific  gravity,  at  02'=  Fahrenheit 1.  316 

Carbon,  volatile  and  fixed ." 0.  69'27'-2 

Hydrogen 0.06778 

Sulphur,  volatile 0.  0340-> 

Oxygen,  nitrogen 0. 1'2048 

Ash O.O.SoOO 

1.00000 


This  mine  is  now  being  worked  under  the  auspices  of  a  California  company, 
and  but  recently  a  cargo  of  450  tons  was  shipped  to  San  Francisco.  The  gTcat 
drawback  here  is  the  absence  of  any  harbor  or  good  anchorage.* 

SEATTLt;  Mi.\E. — The  extensive  coal  fields  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
flourishing  town  of  Seattle  are  now  commanding  great  attention.  The  earliest 
attempted  development  was  in  1854,  upon  what  is  known  as  the  Bigelow  mine, 
on  Black  river,  about  10  miles  from  Seattle  in  a  direct  line.  This  mine  is 
accessible  ))y  light-draught  steamers  to  within  several  hundred  feet.  It  was 
recently  purchased  by  S.  B.  Hinds  and  Company,  an  enterprising  finn  at  Seattle, 
who  ha^'e  commenced  active  operations  towards  its  development.  All  work  upon 
it  had  been  suspended  for  years  before  the  death  of  its  original  owners,  Dr.  R. 
H.  Bigelow.  A  shaft  is  being  sunk,  which  will  reach  the  coal  at  the  depth  of 
70  feet,  from  the  mouth  of  which,  by  a  chute,  the  coal  can  be  directly  laden  into 
scows  or  barges.  The  vein  at  the  cropi)ings  is  23  feet  thick,  mostly  clean,  pur« 
coal,  mixed  with  dirt  on  the  sides,  but  to  all  appearances  free  from  slate  or  sul- 
phur. No  analysis  has  been  made,  but  smiths  who  have  used  it  pronounce  it 
superior,  for  their  purposes,  to  any  coal  obtainable  on  this  coast,  though  inferior 
to  the  Ciunberland.  It  burns  up  very  clean,  leaving  nothing  but  a  clear  white 
ash,  wkh  no  clinkers. 

Lake  Washiicgton  Coal  Fields. — These  mines,  which  are  now  attracting 
so  nuK'h  interest,  are  situated  from  two  to  three  miles  east  of  Lake  Washington, 
and  are  distant  from  Seattle  in  a  direct  southeast  line  eight  or  nine  miles.  Coal 
of  the  same  character  is  also  found  in  the  Squak  valley,  some  three  or  four  miles 
southeast  of  Lake  Washington  ;  in  fact,  through  this  whole  region,  for  some  miles 
distant.  By  some  these  seams  are  regarded  as  continuous.  But  the  country  lying 
between  is  rugged  and  mountainous,  and  it  may  be  found  that  the  basins  are 
separate,  thoiigli  A\ithout  doubt  they  were  originally  the  same  deposit.     The 

*  George  Davidson,  esq.,  in  his  Dh'ectory  of  the  Pacific  Coast,  thus  describes  this  bay : 
"  The  shore-lino  is  nearly  straight,  bluft",  iind  bordered  by  rocks,  with  an  occasional  stretch 
of  sandy  beach.  The  bay  is  at  the  western  termination  of  a  high,  bold,  wooded  ridge,  run- 
ning parallel  to  the  shore,  with  an  almost  perpendicular  water-face,  and  falling  away  rapidly 
inshore.  This  easily  recognized  ridge  is  about  1,000  feet  high  and  seven  miles  long.  The 
water  along  the  face  of  this  ridge  is  very  deep,  and  the  bottom  rocky  and  irregular.  »  *  * 
Off  the  mine,  at  the  distance  of  a  cable's  length,  a  depth  of  35  fathoms  is  fouud,  with  a 
swell  upon  the  rocks  sufficieut  to  destroy  any  boat  loading  there." 


WKST   OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  573 

Rev,  CiOOTa;c  F.  Wliitwortli,  a  gentleman  of  scientific  culture,  whose  judgment  is 
entitled  to  great  respect,  thus  speaks  of  these  mines  : 

Tho  conl  is  fouriil  in  what  I  taJvO  to  be  tlio  tortiniy  formation.  It  is  not  as  solid  a«  the 
Cumberland  ooal,  nor  is  it  ofthv  same  sj^wcitic  gravity;  but  it  siiould  bo  borne  in  mind  that 
nil  the  coal  as  yet  taken  out  is  little  better  than  mere  outcroppin^rs.  Some  of  tlie  Very  first 
coal  taken  t)ut.  upon  being  tested,  was  found  of  the  specific  gravity  of  1.178,  ^^hile  similar 
samples  from  the  Nanaino  at  the  time  of  its  opening  were  1.01.  The  later  coal,  from  the 
tleep  of  the  seam  where  it  is  now  worked,  is  1.25.  A  similar  increase  may  be  expected  as 
this  coal  is  more  deeply  worked.  It  is  remarkably  clean,  is  a  jet  black,  and  as  we  advance 
jilong  the  seam  is  becoming  mucli  liardcr.  Some  of  it  seems  to  be  nearly  as  hard  as  anthra- 
cite. It  burns  with  a  clear  tlame,  does  not  emit  the  black  smoke  so  common  to  other  coals 
on  the  coast,  and  so  I'ar  us  tried  it  is  pronounced  superior  for  purposes  of  steam.  Its  heating 
power  seems  to  be  very  great.  It  burns  up  thoroughly,  making  no  clinker,  and  leaving  a 
very  small  proponion  of  ashes. 

Competent  engineers,  employed  in  the  navigation  of  these  waters  and  in  found- 
ries connected  with  onr  large  mills,  speak  of  this  coal  as  '' kindling  quickly, 
Ijuniing  freely  and  clean,  emitting  a  strong  heat,  making  little  or  no  clinkers, 
and  leaving  about  10  per  cent,  in  ashes."  One  of  them,  an  old  engineer,  says : 
*■'  For  steaming  I  prefer  it  to  any  coal  I  have  as  yet  tried  on  tlte  Pacific  coast." 

Two  ctnnpanies  have  been  incorporated  for  the  purpose  of  working  these  mines. 
The  fu-st,  called  the  '^  Coal  Creek  lload  Company,"  derive  their  act  of  incoipo- 
ration  from  the  legislative  asseiubly,  with  right  of  way  to  build  a  rail  or  tram- 
road  from  their  mine  upon  Coal  creek  along  its  bank  to  where  it  empties  into 
Lake  "Washington,  (di.stance  three  miles.)  The  capital  stock,  in  shares  of  $200 
each,  may  be  increased  from  85,000  to  $.500,000.  The  mine  of  this  company  is 
on  a  quarter  section  of  land,  distant  in  a  direct  line  from  Seattle  about  eight  miles. 
The  Lake  Washington  Coal  Company,  incorporated  under  the  general  incorpo- 
i-ntion  law  of  the  Tenitory,  own  three  quarter  sections,  adjoining  the  claim  of 
tho  Coal  Creek  Company.  Capital  stock  8500,000,  divided  into  shares  of  $100 
each. 

Mr.  TVhitworth's  description  of  the  mines  of  the  latter  company  will  give  a 
general  idea  of  all  these  mines.     Lie  saj's : 

We  have  four  seams  of  coal,  but  have  only  opened  two  of  them  at  a  point  where  they  crop 
out  on  the  creek,  and  have  only  penetrated  them  on  a  level  from  3(1  to  50  feet  from  the 
entrance.  So  far  as  wo  have  gone  there  is  very  little  lying  above  where  we  have  worked, 
hence  no  great  amount  of  pressure,  but  with  every  seam  we  have  a  good  floor,  and  covering 
of  sandstone.  They  all  dip  at  the  same  angle  '.irP  toward  the  north,  and  their  general  direc- 
tion is  from  east  to  west.  Tho  seams  we  are  working  would  be  counted  as  the  second  and 
fourth  in  the  series,  tho  latter  being  the  furthest  down  tho  creek,  but  is  the  highest  in  the 
strata,  and  consequently  the  latest  in  formation.  This  seam  is  about  seven  feet  thick,  but 
h.is  from  one  to  two  feet  of  slate  or  fire-clay,  which  separates  (juite  freely  from  the  coal  in  the 
process  of  mining,  leaving  about  five  feet  of  pure  coal.  Seam  No.  2  is  about  It)  feet  thick, 
and  lias  only  one  or  two  thin  streaks  of  clay  of  about  half  an  inch  thick,  which  also  sepa- 
rates from  the  coal  in  mining,  giving  over  nine  feet  of  pure  coal  to  the  seam.  The  coal  in 
each  seam  is  very  similar,  but  that  in  No.  2  is  deemed  tho  better.  The  other  seams  have  not 
been  worked,  but  judging  from  the  outcrop  are  similar  both  in  size  and  quality  to  the  other 
two.  I  am,  however,  of  tho  opinion  that  wiien  we  get  to  work  at  seam  No.  1,  which  is  geo- 
logically 500  feet  below  tho  others,  it  will  be  found  really  superior  to  any  of  them. 

The  attempt  has  lieen  made  to  exhibit  the  character  of  coal  as  it  is  found  in 
several  localiti(>s  remote  from  each  other.  That  there  is  good  coal  universally 
difl'uscd,  in  quantities  inexhaustible  and  generally  accessible  for  transjiortation, 
cannot  be  doubted.  Capital  and  energy  are  all  that  are  requisite  to  develop 
these  l)oundless  sources  of  wealth.  iS'atm-e  has  made  the  Tenitory  the  "Penn- 
sylvania" of  the  Pacilic.  Possessed  of  such  a  resource,  there  can  be  no  cause 
for  discouragement  as  to  the  futtiro  prominence,  wealth,  and  importance  of  the 
Territory  of  Washington. 

.  Snir-BUILDIXG. — 3Ir.  Joseph  Cushman,  receiver  of  public  moneys  at  Olyra- 
"pia,  has  kindly  fminshed  the  following  data  in  reference  to  the  resources  of  Puget 
sound : 

The  time  is  not  far  distant  when  nearly  all  the  ship-building  on  the  Padfic 


574  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

coast  will  be  clone  on  the  shores  of  Puget  sound.  No  other  place  has  the  same 
natural  advantages  for  building  either  sail  or  steam  vessels.  From  the  Cascade 
range  to  the  Pacific,  comprising  about  one-half  of  Washington  Territory,  the 
surface  is  densely  covered  with  the  finest  forest  growth  in  the  world ;  some  of 
the  trees,  straight  as  -an  arrow,  are  400  feet  in  height,  and  14  feet  in  diameter 
near  the  ground.  Varieties  of  the  fir  predominate,  interspersed  with  spruce, 
hemlock,  tamarack,  white  cedar,  maple,  ash,  white  oak,  and  on  some  of  the  moun- 
tain slopes  white  pine. 

The  yellow  fir  (ahier  Doi(glasu)  is  a  tree  peculiar  to  the  north  Pacific  coast 
from  the  42d  parallel  to  Alaska,  and  is  only  found  east  of  the  Cascade  range 
north  of  the  boundary  of  49°.  This  is  principally  the  timber  used  at  the  saw-mills 
on  the  sound,  and  is  both  strong  and  durable;  in  fact,  it  is  the  strongest  timber 
on  the  coast,  both  in  perpendicular  pressure  and  horizontal  strain.*  It  is  dura- 
l)le  for  ship  frames,  decks,  outside  plank,  and  spars,  and  will  hold  fostering  bet- 
ter and  longer  than  the  common  acidulous  oak.  The  abundance  of  timber,  coal, 
water-power,  and  iron  ore  in  the  vicinity  of  navigable  waters,  together  with  fine 
harbors,  large  saw-mills,  temperate  climate,  and  natural  facili^es  for  manufac- 
turing cordage,  all  clearly  indicate  that  the  Puget  sound  country  will  soon  occupy 
a  prominent  position  in  ship-building.  ^British  Columbia  and  Vancouver's  island 
can  be  the  only  possible  rivals  on  this  coast,  and  their  vessels  can  only  freight 
coastwise  in  British  ports.  Their  facilities  for  ship-building  may  be  a  good  argu- 
ment for  annexation,  but  not  proper  to  discourse  here.  On  the  waters  south  of 
Port  Townsend,  what  is  generally  called  Puget  sound,  probably  about  50  sea- 
going vessels  have  thus  far  been  built.  Some  of  them  are  fine  steamers.  Several 
schooners  are  now  on  the  stocks,  to  be  launched  this  autumn.  Some  10  or  12  ves- 
sels Avill  be  built  the  next  year,  including  two  or  three  barks  for  the  San  Francisco 
lumber  trade.  Four  or  five  hundred  schooners,  averaging  100  tons  burden  each, 
will  be  wanted  for  the  northern  cod  fisheries;  say  30  or  40  ships  for  the  northern 
whaling  fleet,  and  30  or  40  more  ships  for  the  coal  and  lumber  trade  from  the 
sound.  Nowhere  can  these  vessels  be  built  so  cheaply  as  where  the  timber  costs 
a  mere  nothing,  and  where  all  other  natural  facilities  exist.  Capital  only  is 
wanted,  and  that  will  naturally  seek  its  own  licst  interests ;  skilled  labor  also 
Avill  seek  its  own  reward  ;  so  that  it  is  hazarding  little  to  predict  that  ship-build- 
ing will  be  one  of  the  great  interests  of  Washington  Territory. 

Puget  Souxd  and  the  Northern  Fisheries. — Prominent  among  the 
resources  of  the  Puget  sound  country  is  the  building  of  fishing  schooners  and 
using  them  in  the  northern  cod  fisheries. 

The  cod  and  halibut  V>anks  in  the  north  Pacific,  both  on  the  Asiatic  and  Ameri- 
can coasts,  and  also  around  the  intervening  islands,  are  known  to  be  numerous, 
and  fish  abundant. 

The  market  for  cured  fish  will  increase  with  the  supply.  Five  hundred 
schooners,  averaging  100  tons  burden  each,  and  employing  5,000  men,  engaged 
in  the  fishing  business,  with  more  than  ordinary  iishcrman's  luck,  would  not 
over  supjtly  the  Pacific  market.  San  Francisco  ^\•ould,  of  course,  be  the  whole- 
sale centre  of  trade  and  supply  lor  Calii'oruia  and  other  mining  countries,  the 
Pacific  islands  and  fleet,  Hongkong  and  otlier  Asiatic  ports,  and  all  ports  south 
to  Valparaiso.  Decaj-ed  codlish  via  the  Horn  will  no  longer  be  a  marketable 
article  in  San  Francisco.  Tlie  Atlantic  c«d  fleet,  American,  English,  and  French, 
number  some  3,000  vessels,  manned  with  about  30,000  men ;  yet  the  price  of 

-yard  at  Toulon  (see 
Forbes's  Vancou\er's  Island,  p.  G'i,  and  appeudix  to  same,  p.  14)  show  that  masts  tiom 
Vaucouvcr's  ishvnd  are  su])cri()r  to  tlie  best  ehiss  of  Rij^a  spars.     The  report  of  the  French 


'Experiments  made  by  the  French  aiUhorities  in  the  imperial  dock-y 
rbes's  Vancou\er's  Island,  p.  G'i,  and  appendix  to  same,  p.  14)  sho 
,  tvucouvcr's  island  are  superior  to  tlie  best  class  of  Rif^a  spars.  The  re^viu  ui  mc  ^  ,k,^^^ 
engineers,  which  is  equally  appiictiblo  to  the  masts  and  spars  of  Puget  sound,  says:  "The 
principal  quality  of  these  woods  is  a  tlexibility  and  tenacity  of  fibre  rarely  met  with  in  trees  so 
aged  ;  they  may  be  bent  and  twisted  several  times  in  contrary  directions  without  breaking," 
and  possess  other  rare  qualities,  such  as  "exceptional  dimensions,  strength,  lightness,  absence 


of  knots,  &c.' 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  575 

dry  and  j)ickk'J  lit^h  has  boon  q-nulually  risiui,'' for  the  last  15  years,  and  this,  too, 
under  the  bounty  act  of  Conoress  and  the  reciprocity  treaty  with  Great  Britain. 

The  main  eastern  cod-fisliing  fleet  lies  at  anchor  in  the  eternal  fogs  of  the 
Grand  banks,  in  the  track  of  nearly  all  vessels  running  between  the  eastern  States 
and  Eurojie.  Owing  to  collisions  and  stoimy  seas  on  a  rock-bound  coast,  and 
various  other  causes,  the  eastern  fishing  business  is  far  more  perilous  to  life  than 
either  the  whaling  or  merchant  service.  It  is  not  so  on  the  waters  of  the  north 
Pacific.  Storms  there  are  unfrequent  during  the  fishing  season,  from  Aj)ril  to 
September,  and  the  climate  is  more  mild  and  equable  than  on  the  eastern  coast 
10  degrees  further  south. 

Puget  sound  has  unrivalled  advantages  for  prosecuting  the  cod  an<l  halil)ut 
fisheries  at  the  north.  No  other  locality  except  Vancouver's  island  has  similar 
advantages,  and  their  fish  would  be  subject  to  heavy  duties  in  American  ports. 

"With  no  rivalry  from  the  east  or  elsewhere  ;  with  alnmdance  of  fish,  unfrequent 
storms  during  the  fishing  seascm,  the  best  climate  to  cure  fish,  safe  harbors,  salt 
by  the  cargo  at  a  comparatively  low  price,  and  all  the  requisite  provisions  f»n'  an 
outfit,  it  is  scarcely  })ossible  to  overrate  the  advantages  of  this  region  as  the 
centre  of  the  great  fishery  of  the  north  Pacific.  The  sound  waters  are  full  of 
clams  and  small  fish  for  bait.  Good  ship  timber  can  be  had  near  the  shores  for 
the  mere  cost  of  cutting. 

Situated  only  a  few  days'  sail  from  the  best  fishing  grounds,  the  sonnd  must 
become  the  main  depot  of  business.  Fish  cannot  be  properly  dried  and  ciu'ed 
either  in  llussian  America  or  California ;  the  climate  of  the  fonner  being  change- 
able and  tt>o  damp,  and  the  latter  too  hot  and  dry.  There  is  a  large  population 
of  Pish  Indians  *  l)0th  on  the  sound  and  in  llussian  America,  or  Alaska,  who  will 
make  good  sailors  and  fishermen. 

Finally,  the  market  is  extensive  and  highly  remunerative.  What  more  could 
be  desired  for  the  successful  prosecution  of  the  business  ?  Fishennen  make  good 
sailors;  the  cabin  of  the  fishing  smack  is  the  school-house  of  the  ocean.  The 
full  develojiment  of  this  important  branch  of  industry  will  be  a  great  benefit  to 
the  sound  country,  to  the  whole  coast,  to  the  shipping  interest,  and  to  the  gov- 
ernment as  a  great  means  of  offence  and  defence  during  a  war  \\ith  any  mari- 
time nation. 

*  What  Mr.  Forbes  says  in  reference  to  the  fisheries  of  Vancouver's  island  is  generally 
applicable  on  this  coast.  The  business  of  fishing  forms  "an  exceptional  case  as  regards 
Indian  labor,  for  in  such  an  occupation  as  this  the  natives  will  work  freely  and  better  tiiuna 
white  man.  Salmon,  cod,  halibut,  sturgeon,  herring,  enlachon,  »fcc.,  may  all  be  caught  in 
great  quantities  and  prepared  for  export."  (Vancouver's  Island,  its  Resources,  &,c.,  by 
Charles  Forbes,  esq.,  M.  D.,  M.  R.  C.  S.,  p.  (52.) 


576  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 


OREGON. 

SECTIOX    I. 

BOUNDARIES,  SUBDIVISIONS,  NAVIGABLE  RIVERS,  AND  TOWNS. 

Ill  describing  tlie  boundaiy  lines  of  this  State,  we  cannot  do  l>etter  than  quote 
from  the  recent  report  of  the  Commissioner  of  the  General  Land  Office : 

Oregon  has  California  on  the  south  and  Washington  Territory  on  the  north,  extending 
from  the  Pacific  ocean  to  Snake  river,  the  latter  constituting  a  part  of  its  eastern  boundary. 
It  is  3r">0  miles  long  from  «ast  to  west,  and  275  wide  from  north  to  south,  containing  95,274 
square  miles,  or  60,975,360  acres,  being  about  half  as  large  as  the  State  of  California. 

The  Coast  mountains  and  the  Sierra  Nevada,  traversing  California,  continue  northward 
through  Oregon ;  the  latter,  after  leaving  California,  are  named  the  Cascades.  Near  the 
southern  boui>dary  the  chain  throws  off  a  branch  called  the  Blue  mountains,  which  extends 
northeastwardlj  through  the  State,  passing  into  Washington  and  Idaho. 

The  course  of  the  Cascades  through  the  State  is  generally  parallel  Avith  the  shore  of  the 
Pacific,  and  distant  therefrom  an  average  of  110  miles.  In  California  the  direction  of  the 
Coast  mountains  and  coast  valleys  is  that  of  general  parallelism  with  the  sea-shore ;  the  Hioun- 
tains  sometiuies  approaching  close  to  the  shore  and  then  receding  miles  from  it,  leaving  belts 
of  arable  laud  between  them  and  the  ocean  In  Oregon  the  Coast  range  consists  of  a  series 
of  high  lauds  running  at  right  angles  with  the  shore,  with  valleys  and  rivers  between  the 
numerous  spurs  having  the  same  general  direction  as  the  highlands. 

In  reference  to  climate  and  agricultural  capacities,  Oregon  may  be  divided  into  two  distinct 
parts,  the  eastern  and  western,  lying  respectively  on  the  east  and  west  sides  of  the  Cascades. 

Western  Oregon,  the  portion  of  the  State  first  settled,  and  containing  the  great  prepon- 
derance of  its  present  population,  is  275  miles  in  length,  with  an  average  width  of  1 10,  being 
nearly  one-tliird  of  the  whole  State,  and  contains  about  31,000  square  miles,  or  nearly 
20,000,000  acres,  all  of  which  is  valuable  for  agriculture,  for  grazing,  or  for  timber-growing, 
excepting  the  crests  of  some  of  the  highest  mountains.  It  is  more  than  four  times  as  large 
as  Massachusetts,  nearly  three  times  as  large  as  Maryland,  and  is  greater  in  extent  than  the 
United  areas  of  Maryland,  New  Jersey,  Massachusetts,  and  Rhode  Island. 

Subdivisions. — Oregon  is  divided  into  22  counties.  The  general  character- 
istics, boundary  lines,  population,  &c.,  of  each  county,  are  thus  given  in  McCor- 
mick's  Directory  : 

Baker  County  is  situated  east  of  the  Cascade  mountains,  embracing  within  its  bounda- 
ries large  tracts  of  excellent  agricultural  land,  together  with  numerous  valuable  mining  claims 
which  are  annually  being  developed.     County  seat.  Auburn. 

Benton  County  contains  an  area  of  about  1,556  square  miles,  and  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  I'olk  county,  on  the  south  by  Lane,  on  the  east  by  the  Willamette  river,  and  on 
the  west  by  the  Pacific  ocean.     Number  of  legal  voters,  950.     County  seat,  Corvallis. 

Coi.UiMBiA  County  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  east  by  the  Columbia  river,  on  the  south 
by  Washington  and  Multnomah  counties,  and  on  the  west  by  Clatsop  county.  According 
to  the  late,  census,  it  contains  a  population  of  449,  viz  :  males,  297  ;  females,  152.  Number 
of  veters,  173.  Acres  of  land  under  cultivation,  745.  The  total  value  of  assessable  property 
in  the  county  is  $159,970.     County  seat,  St.  Helens. 

Ci-ACKAMAS  County  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Multnomah,  on  the  east  by  the  Cascade 
mountains,  on  the  south  by  Marion  and  on  the  west  by  Washington  and  Multnomah.  Popu- 
lation, 4,144.     County  scat,  Oregon  City. 

The  establishment  of  a  woollen  factory  and  a  paper  mill  at  Oregon  City  has  proved  bene- 
ficial to  its  progress.  Nmnber  of  legal  voters  in  the  county,  1,242.  Number  of  males,  2,448 ; 
females,  1,696.  Acres  of  land  under  cultivation,  6,092.  Value  of  assessable  property, 
!«>  1,605,594. 

Clatsop  County  contains  a  population  of  689,  viz  :  males,  388;  females,  301.  Voters, 
179.  Acres  of  laud  under  cultivation,  760.  Value  of  assessable  property,  $280,000.  County 
seat,  Astoria. 

CUKKY  County  is  situated  in  the  extreme  southwestern  portion  of  the  State,  and  contains 
a  population  of  389,  viz  :  males,  224 ;  feuuiles,  165.  Number  of  voters,  105.  Number  of 
acre^s  of  land  under  cultivatiii)n,  400.  Value  of  assessable  property,  $100,600.  Large  quan- 
tities of  good  land,  suitable  for  cultivation,  remain  unoccupied  in  this  county.  A  new  mining 
district  has  recently  been  oinned  near  the  mouth  of  Rogue  river,  where  hundreds  of  men  can 
find  employment  during  eight  months  of  the  year.     County  sea't,  EUensburg. 

Coos  County  is  situate  in  the  southern  portion  of  the  State,  on  the  coast,  between  Douglas 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  577 

find  Carry  counties.  The  population,  according  to  the  late  census,  is  1,024,  viz :  males,  G37  ; 
'females,  ;?^7.  Number  of  voters,  31'^.  Acres  of  land  under  cultivation,  950.  Value  of 
assessable  property  in  tbe  county,  $'2l)0,00t).     County  seat.  Empire  City. 

Douglas  Couxty  contains  a  population  of  about  4,000,  viz :  males,  2,250  ;  females,  1,750. 
Number  of  voters,  1,130.  Number  of  acres  of  land  under  cultivation,  21,404.  Value  of 
assessable  property,  §1.331,20?^.     County  seat,  Roseburg. 

Gkant  Countv  contains  a  population  of  2,250,  viz :  males,  2,000  ;  females,  250.  Num- 
ber of  voters,  1,300.  Acres  of  land  under  cultivation,  5,000.  Value  of  assessable  property, 
$295,000.     County  seat,  Canyon  City. 

jArKSOX  Coi'XTY  is  situate  in  tbe  southern  portion  of  the  State,  and  contains  within  its 
boundaries  rich  gold  mines,  which  give  employment  to  a  large  number  of  its  citizens.  The 
population  of  the  county  is  2,955,  viz:  males,  1,755;  females,  1,200.  Number  of  voters, 
1,253.  Acres  of  land  under  cultivation,  13,901.  Value  of  assessable  property,  $1,298,465. 
County  seat,  Jacksonville. 

Josephine  Couxty  is  situate  in  the  southern  portion  of  Oregon,  between  Jackson  and 
Curry  counties,  and  contains  a  population  of  about  2,000.  The  assessable  property  in  the 
county  is  estimated  at  $300,000.     County  seat,  Kerbyville. 

Laxe  County  is  situate  in  the  central  portion  of  the  State,  extending  from  the  Pacific 
ocean  to  the  Cascade  range.  The  pojulation  of  this  county  is  5,527,  viz:  males,  3,077  ; 
females,  2,450.  Number  of  legal  voters,  1,318.  Acres  of  land  under  cultivation,  30,683. 
Value  of  assessable  property,  §3,000,000.     County  seat,  Eugene  City. 

Lixx  CouxTY  is  situate  north  of  Lane,  and  contains  a  population  of  7,709,  being  an  increase 
of  93T  since  1866.  In  1850  the  population  of  this  county  was  only  994.  Linn  county  con- 
tains an  area  of  877  square  miles,  or  561,200  acres.  Number  of  males  in  the  county,  4,235 ; 
females,  3,474.  Voters,  2,250.  Acres  of  land  under  cultivation,  49,405.  Value  of  assessa- 
ble property,  .$2,500,000.  During  1865  a  splendid  brick  court-house  was  erected  at  Albany, 
the  county  seat,  at  a  cost  of  §31,000.  The  post  offices  in  this  county  are  Albany,  Peoria, 
Lebanon,  Scio,  Brownsville,  Pine,  and  Ilarrisburg. 

Marion  County  contains  a  population  of  about  9,000.     County  seat,  Salem. 

MuLTXOMAH  County  is  situate  on  the  banks  of  the  Willamette  river,  in  the  northern 
portion  of  the  State,  and  is  the  wealthiest  county  in  Oregon.  It  contains  a  population  of 
7,000,  viz:  males,  4,020;  females,  2,980.  Number  of  voters,  1,723.  Males  under2],  1,.540, 
Acres  of  land  under  cultivation,  4,051.  The  total  value  of  assessable  property  is§4, 517, 291. 
Since  1865  the  population  has  increased  1,086.  Portland,  the  county  seat,  is  the  principal 
city  in  the  State.  During  the  past  year  a  new  court-house  has  been  erected  at  a  cost  of 
§100,000.  Numerous  brick  building,s  and  dwelling-houses  have  also  been  constructed,  and 
the  city  wears  an  aspect  of  general  jirosperity. 

Polk  County'  contains  a  population  of  4,993,  viz  :  males,  2,788 ;  females,  2,205.  Number 
of  voters,  1,125.  Acres  of  land  under  cultivation,  90,127.  Value  of  assessable  property  in 
the  county,  §1,033,179.     County  seat,  Dallas. 

TiLiA.MOoiv  County  contains  a  population  of  about  300. 

Union  County'  is  situate  east  of  the  Cascade  range  of  mountains,  and  contains  a  popu- 
lation of  about  2,000.     Number  of  voters,  705.     County  seat,  Le  Grande. 

Umatilla  County'  contains  a  population  of  1,805,  viz:  males,  1,049;  females,  75fi. 
Number  of  voters,  797.  Acres  of  land  under  cultivation,  5,770.  Value  of  assessable  prop- 
erty, §387,148. 

"\Vasco  County  contains  a  population  of  1,898,  viz:  males,  1,092:  females,  806.  Num- 
ber of  voters,  604.     Value  of  assessable  property,  §1,771,420.     County  seat.  Dalles. 

Washington  County  contains  a  population  of  3,491,  viz  :  males,  1,903;  females,  1,.578. 
Number  of  voters,  824,  being  an  increase  of  120  since  1865.  Acres  of  land  under  cultiva- 
tion, 14,224.     County  seat,  Hillsboro'. 

Yamhill  County  contains  a  population  of  4,018,  viz:  males,  2,200;  females,  1,818. 
Number  of  voters,  1,082.  Acres  of  land  under  cultivation,  26,343.  Value  of  assessable 
property,  §1,000,000.     County  seat,  Lafayette. 

37 


578 


EESOUECES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 


Census  of  Oregon  in  13G5. 


Countieg. 


__ 

^^ 

o 

2" 

o 

o 

g 

T^o 

■;; 

-3 

2-6 

i* 

CD -6 

■5  '^ 

'2 

s  ^ 

X  > 

n 

"k  — 

"3 

a 

ii 

a 

s 

s 

S 

b 

fa 

fo 

744 

682 

599 

525 

270 

533 

419 

60 

105 

126 

37 

110 

808 

507 

701 

719 

360 

617 

136 

55 

65 

78 

46 

48 

218 

71 

99 

143 

57 

101 

117 

20 

58 

45 

20 

46 

225 

28 

85 

97 

30 

86 

947 

419 

719 

614 

329 

681 

1,592 

101 

137 

202 

54 

107 

979 

261 

515 

512 

196 

492 

349 

44 

118 

127 

35 

119 

1,  885 

900 

1,450 

1,370 

741 

1,363 

1,32-2 

645 

1,110 

899 

489 

1,  062 

2,040 

932 

1,536 

1,612 

791 

1,  460 

1,866 

4.53 

1,087 

1,464 

497 

1,019 

957 

490 

841 

731 

397 

677 

64 

18 

36 

37 

22 

34 

749 

158 

142 

320 

99 

331 

841 

205 

350 

336 

240 

362 

613 

135 

344 

369 

109 

328 

735 

350 

613 

588 

307 

513 

998 

442 

706 

778 

323 

771 

18,  694 

6, 976 

11,416 

11,  C95 

5,  449 

10, 860 

Benton 

Baker 

Clackamas  .. 

Columbia 

Clatsop 

Curry 

CoOli 

Douglas 

Grant 

Jackson  

Josephine  . .. 

Linu 

Lane 

Marion 

Multnomah . . 

Polk 

Tiliaraook.  .. 

Umatilla 

Union 

Wasco 

■Washington  . 
Yamhill 


Total 17,  997 


3,353 

857 
3, 8(2 

4':3 

689 

306 

551 

3,  7C6 

2,193 

2,955 

792 

7,  7f9 

5,  5-J7 

8,371 

,6,386 

4,093 

211 

1,805 

2,334 

1,898 

3, 1U6 

4,018 


*65,  090 


*Estiniateci  population  January,  1868,  78,000. 

Navigable  Rivees.* — The  Columbia,  "Willamette,  Snake  river,  and  Pen 
d'Oreille  or  Clark's  Fork  arc  the  four  principal  navigable  rivers,  to  which  may 
be  added  the  names  of  rivers  navigated  for  short  distances  during  the  season  of 
high  Avater,  as  follows :  Cowlitz  river,  emptying  into  the  Columbia ;  Yamhill, 
Tualitin,  and  Santiam,  emptying  into  the  Willamette ;  and  Clearwater,  emptying 
into  the  Snake  river.  All  these  rivers  have  been,  and  are  now  being,  success- 
fully navigated  by  steamers. 

The  Columbia  is  the  principal  river,  and  is  obstructed  at  different  points  by 
falls  and  rapids  of  such  a  character  as  to  prevent  its  continued  navigati?)n.  This 
great  river  is  divided  into  four  navigable  sections.  The  lirst  is  from  its  mouth 
to  the  Cascades,  a  distance  of  160  liiiles.  As  far  up  as  the  mouth  of  the  Willa- 
mette it  is  a  broad,  deep  river,  navigable  at  all  seasons  by  the  largest  vessels 
that  cross  the  bar  at  its  mouth.  The  obstruction  to  navigation  at  the  Cascades 
is  of  such  a  character  as  to  make  a  portage  of  six  miles  necessary.  This  portage 
is  now  made  by  means  of  a  railroad  stocked  Avith  excellent  locomotives  and 
cars.  The  second  section  of  the  Columbia  is  from  Cascades  to  Dalles,  a  dis- 
tiince  of  50  miles,  through  the  Cascade  range  of  mountains.  Here  is  another 
obstruction  to  navigation,  known  as  the  Great  Dalles  of  the  Columbia.  This 
makes  a  second  portage  necessary,  and  is  at  present  accomplished  by  means  of 
14  miles  of  railway,  etpial  in  character  to  the  road  at  the  Cascades.  The  third 
section  of  the  Columbia  reaches  from  the  Dalles  (or  Celilo)  to  Priest's  rapids,  a 
distance  of  185  miles.  From  Priest's  rapids  to  Fort  Colville,  a  distance  of 
about  1 00  miles,  the  river  is  so  frequentl}'  obstructed  with  rapids  that  the  navi- 
gation has  never  been  attempted.  Beyond  Fort  Colville,  for  a  distance  of  250 
miles  into  British  Columbia,  this  great  river  is  navigable,  and  is  now  being 
navigated  by  an  American  steamer  of  about  100  tons  capacity. 

Snake  river  empties  into  the  Columbia  about  12  miles  north  of  old  Fort  Walla- 

*  I  am  indebted  to  Mr.  J.  C.  Ainswortb,  president  of  the  Oregfon  Steam  Navigation  Com- 
pany, for  the  data  furnished  on  this  subject.     It  was  prepared  by  Mr.  Ainsworth  in  answer    i 
to  questions  in  writing  submitted  by  me  during  a  visit  to  Portland  in  August,  1867. — J.  R.  B. 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  579 

T\'alla,  and  is  naviirable  as  liiijli  up  as  Lowiston,  in  Idaho,  a  distance  of  160 
miles.  From  this  jxiint,  in  ascendino;  Snake  river,  you  go  almost  due  south,  and 
for  an  additional  distance  of  150  miles  little  or  nothing  is  known  of  the  river, 
except  that  it  passes  through  a  chain  of  high  mountains,  and  is  so  obstructed 
with  rapids  and  falls  as  to  make  navigation  impossible;  but  from  above  this 
chain  of  mountains,  continuing  in  a  southerly  directicni,  the  river  is  navigable  a 
distance  of  150  miles.  A  fine  steamer  of  200  tons  ca])acity  is  now  on  this  sec- 
tion of  tUe  river,  and  has  succeeded  in  reaching  a  point  within  30  miles  of  the 
Great  Salmon  Falls.  By  the  use  of  this  boat  and  the  navigation  of  Salt  Lake 
(which  is  said  to  be  practicable)  the  land  travel  from  Great  Salt  Lake  City  to 
Portland  in  Oregon  would  be  reduced  to  al)out  400  miles. 

Ten  d'l^reille  river,  or  Clark's  Fork  of  the  Columbia,  is  navigable  from  foot 
of  Pen  d"C)reille  lake  to  month  of  Jako,  a  distance  of  about  225  miles.  Three 
fine  steamers  are  now  running  from  foot  of  the  lake  to  Thompson's  Falls,  a  dis- 
tance of  about  150  miles.  Two  short  portages,  of  less  than  seven  miles  in  all, 
are  made  to  connect  these  boats.  One  more  boat,  above  Thompson's  Falls,  will 
enable  the  traveller  to  reach  a  point  within  125  miles  of  Fort  Benton,  on  the 
Missouri. 

The  distance  from  the  main  Columbia  to  Pen  d'Oreille  lake  is  160  miles, 
over  a  good  wagon  road.  Thus  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Columbia  and 
Missouri  rivers  are  only  separated  by  360  miles  of  land  travel,  which  can  be 
reduced,  by  adding  a  fourth  })oat  on  Clark's  Fork,  to  285  miles. 

The  Willamette  river  is  navigable  from  its  month  to  Eugene  city,  a  distance 
of  about  200  miles.  The  only  obstruction  to  the  navigation  of  this  river  is  a 
forty-foot  fall  at  Oregon  City,  making  a  portage  of  one  mile  necessary. 

There  are,  in  all,  some  30  river  steamers  navigating  the  "waters  above  named, 
with  an  average  canying  capacity  of  about  125  tons  each,  and  employed  as  fol- 
lows, to  wit :  semi-weekly  from  Portland  to  Astoria ;  tri-weekly  from  Portland 
to  Monticello;  daily  from  Portland  to  Dalles;  tri-weekly  from  Dalles  to  Wal- 
lula;  semi-weekly  Ironr  Wallula  to  Lewiston;  once  a  week  from  Fort  Colville 
to  La  Porte,  in  British  Columbia ;  dail}-  from  foot  of  Pen  d'Oreille  lake  to  Cabi- 
nett,  on  Chuk's  Fork;  once  a  week  from  Cabinett  to  Thompson's  Falls;  daily 
from  Portland  to  Fort  Vancouver;  daily  from  Portland  to  Oregon  City;  semi- 
weekly  from  Oregon  City  to  Coiwallis;  once  a  week  from  Oregon  City  to  Eugena; 
tri-weekly  from  Oregon  City  to  Yamhill  river.  In  addition  to  these  regular 
routes  there  are  several  small  steamers  and  propellers  that  run  as  business  oilers. 

The  amount  of  freight  and  number  of  passengers  carried  on  the  different 
routes  named  is  very  difficult  to  ascertain,  but  fi'om  the  secretary  of  the  Oregon 
Steam  Navigation  Company  I  have  obtained  a  statement  of  freight  and  passen- 
gers transported  on  the  Columbia  liver  from  1861  to  1864,  inclusive: 

No.  of  passengers.  Tons  of  freight, 

1861 ]U,r.OO  6,290 

1862 21, .5110  14,550 

ltf63 22,000  17,646 

ISM 36,000  21,834 

The  freight  thus  shipped  was  all  up  freight,  and  intended  as  supplies  for  mili- 
tary posts  east  of  the  Cascades  and  the  ditierent  mining  cami)s  of  Idaho,  "Wash- 
ington, and  eastern  Oregon.  As  late  as  1S60  the  principal  business  on  the 
Columbia  river  Avas  the  transportation  of  troops  and  supplies  for  the  then  Indian 
country  east  of  the  Cascades. 

The  mineral  developments  made  at  a  subsequent  date  in  that  vast  section  of 
country-,  extending  from  latitude  42°  to  56°  north,  and  from  the  Cascade  range 
to  the  Bitter  Root  and  Eocky  mountains,  have  been  the  means  of  inducing  per- 
manent settlements  in  several  of  the  rich  agricultural  districts  that  lie  in  dilfer- 
ent  parts  of  this  countrj^;  the  result  of  which  is  that  the  military  are  now  sup- 
plied with  grain,  Hour,  bacon,  &a.,  at  a  less  cost  than  was  formerly  paid  for 


580  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AXD    TERRITORIES 

ti'ansportati(m  alone,  and  tlie  miner  is  supplied  at  rates  tliat  encourage  liim  to 
prospect  the  country  and  thus  develop  its  treasures. 

During  the  last  two  years  the  down  freight  on  the  Columbia  has  largely 
increased.  During  the  month  of  June  of  the  present  year  Walla-'VYalia  valley 
alone  shipped  over  500  tons  of  flour  for  San  Francisco  and  New  York  markets, 
retaining  a  surplus  estimated  at  20,000  barrels.  To  this  must  be  added  the 
new  crop  now  being  hai-vested,  and  variously  estimated  at  from  200,.000  to 
300,000  l>usliels.  Grande  Ronde  valley,  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Blue  moun- 
tains on  the  east,  has  a  large  surplus — perhaps  as  mucb  as  Walla- Walla.  Pow- 
der river  and  Boise  valleys  are  producing  large  supplies.  There  are  many  other 
valleys  in  this  section,  rich  in  agricultm'al  wealth,  that  only  await  the  enterpris- 
ing emigrant,  to  offer  him  a  luxuriant  and  happy  home. 

The  banks  of  the  Columbia  river,  from  its  mouth  as  far  up  as  the  Dalles,  are 
thickly  wooded,  principally  with  fir,  oak,  cottonwood,  and  pine,  and  maple  and 
ash  are  not  uncommon  and  can  be  had  in  limited  quantities.  From  Dalles  to 
Priest's  rapids,  and  from  the  mouth  of  Snake  river  to  Lewiston,  the  banks  and 
adjacent  country  are  entirely  destitxrte  of  timber.  The  vast  and  sparsely  popu- 
lated country  through  which  these  rivers  flow,  east  of  the  Cascade  range,  is  cov- 
ered with  a  luxuriant  ''bunch  grass."  Stock  raisers  are  appropriating  a  portion 
of  this  immense  pasture,  and  are  yearly  accumulating  fortunes  by  raising  cattle 
and  sheep,  for  which  they  find  a  ready  and  profitable  market  in  the  different 
mining  camps  of  Idaho,  Montana,  Washington,  eastern  Oregon,  and  British 
Columbia. 

From  the  1st  of  March  to  the  15th  of  July,  of  this  3'ear,  there  were  shipped 
on  steamboats  from  Portland  to  Dalles  12,191  head  of  cattle  and  horses,  0,283 
head  of  sheep,  and  1,594  head  of  hogs.  There  has  doubtless  been  an  equal 
number  driven  across  the  Cascade  mountains  during  the  months  of  July  and 
August,  all  intended  for  feeding,  accumulating,  and  marketing  as  indicated. 

The  whole  country  may  be  said  to  be  mineral.  Gold  in  paying  quantities  is 
annually  taken  friun  the  banks  of  the  Columbia  river  as  low  down  as  Umatilla. 
On  Snake  river  the  banks  for  miles  below  Lewiston  are  profitably  worked  by 
Chinamen.  This  extensive  mineral  section,  embraced  Avithin  the  linnts  before- 
named,  though  adding  considerable  amounts  annually  to  the  treasure  of  the 
world,  has  scarcely  been  prospected.  The  work  done  to  develop  the  mineral 
wealth  amounts  to  little  more  than  surface  explorations. 

The  l^en  d'Oreillc  river  runs  through  a  magnificent  grazing,  agricultural,  and 
timbered  country,  almost  entirel}^  uninhabited. 

The  Willamette  river  drains  the  beautiful  valley  of  that  name.  This  valley 
is  a})out  200  miles  long  and  from  20  to  30  miles  wide,  and  sustains  a  population 
of  about  60,000,  with  ample  room  and  resources  for  a  million.  It  is  rich  in 
grain-growing  and  grazing  lands,  and  contairts  extensive  deposits  of  iron  ore.* 
Coal  and  copper  are  also  found,  but  as  yet  little  developed. 

PoitXLANi). — The  jirincipal  town  on  the  Willamette  river  is  Portland,  situate 
on  the  west  bank  about  12  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  location  is  excellent, 
and  the  city  i)rcsents  an  appearance  of  thrift  and  prosjjerity  indicative  of  the 
steady  progress  of  the  State.  IMany  of  the  public  buildings  would  be  credita- 
ble to  the  best  cities  of  the  east  of  equal  po])ulation.  The  new  court-house, 
completed  in  18GG,  the  buildings  of  the  Oregon  Steam  Navigation  Company, 
and  other  public  and  private  edifices,  are  among  the  neatest  and  most  substantial 
specimens  of  architecture  on  the  Pacific  slope. 

Popidation. — Another  evidence  of  the  prosperity  of  Portland,  says  Mr.  McCor- 
mick  in  his  valuable  director)^,  may  be  found  in  the  annually  increasing  popula- 
tion of  the  city,  which  has  increased  in  a  ratio  almost  equal  to  any  city  in  the 
Union.     In  1863  the  population  of  Portland  was  4,057.     In  1864  it  amounted 

*  See  article  on  miscellaneous  minerals  of  Pacific  coast. 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  581 

to  0.819;  in  18G')  ifc  M'as  ostimatcil  at  6,0GS.  In  18GG  it  increased  to  G,-'';08, 
aecordino-  to  a  census  taken  especially  hy  canvassers  for  this  work.  The  follow- 
ing- table  shows  tlio  population  according  to  the  several  classilications : 

Mules  '21  years  and  npwards 2,  017 

Mjiles  uiutcr  '2 1  years ] ,  104 

Feinn'.es  2 1  yoars  ami  upwards 1, 3'M 

Females  uudor  '2 J  years J ,  108 

Ciilored,  males 82 

Co' ored,  females 43 

Cliinese,  males 208 

Chinese,  females 116 

Floating  population,  estimated  from  hotel  registers,  &c.,  &c 500 

Total (1,508 

Being  an  increase  of  440  inhabitants  during  the  year  just  closed.  These 
flgiu-es  do  not  exhibit  a  very  rapid  growth,  but  they  denote  a  steady  progress, 
Avliich  nnist  prove  not  only  interesting  but  even  satisfactory  to  the  well-wishers 
of  Portland. 

The  present  population  of  Portland  is  estimated  at  8,000,  and  a  rapid  increase 
is  expected  during  the  ensuing  year,  owing  to  the  reduced  rates  of  passage  from 
the  east,  and  the  recent  gratifying  progress  in  the  development  of  the  iron,  coal, 
and  agricultural  interests  of  the  State. 

Assessable  property. — 3Ir.  McCormick  says: 

The  assessable  property  in  Portland  is  valued  at  f  4,200,000.  Taxes  levied  and  collected 
during  1866,  §400,000.  Of  this  amount  Ij^Ol.OOO  was  collected  for  State,  county,  school,  and 
road  purposes ;  .Sino.OOO  was  collected  by  the  officers  of  the  United  States  for  federal  pur- 
poses, and  .$ir)9,000  (including  licenses  and  lines)  was  collected  by  thecity  of  Portland.  Of 
this  amount  §75,000  was  expended  for  street  imjirovements,  and  .$84,000  for  general  and 
special  purposes.  The  salaries  and  fees  of  city  officers  during  ISOG  amounted  to  $)5,0<J0. 
The  expense  of  city  surveys,  $3,700.  The  cost  of  boarding  city  prisoners,  $950,  Salary 
of  the  city  attorney,  §1,0110.  Expense  of  the  recorder's  court  and  city  poliL-e,  §0,000.  The 
amount  expended  in  the  improvement  of  the  Willamette  river  last  year  exceeded  fo0,00U. 
Of  tiiis  amount  §20,000  was  raised  by  loan,  and  §10,8(32  obtained  by  special  tax.  The 
expense  of  lighting  the  city  with  gas  was  §:;,0(jO,  and  for  furnishing  the  engine  house  and 
city  offices  with  water,  §(500.  The  city  printing  diu-ing  the  year  just  closed  cost  §70(J.  From 
the  foi'egoing  figures  a  crude  idea  may  be  gathered  of  the  approximate  expensi.'s  of  the  sev- 
eral departments  of  the  municipal  government  of  Portlaird. 

Summary  of  produce  slii pptd  from  Portland  during  18G6. 

Pork.  72  barrels,  at  §20  per  barrel $  J ,  440 

Apples,  G8,t:>()0  boxes,  at  §1  per  box 08,8(50 

Eggs,  1,70:}  packages,  at  §10  per  package 17,  &M) 

Ijacon,4,:{7tJ  gunnies,  at  §10  jier  gunny .*....  70,  010 

Hides,  4, 074,  at  §  I  50  per  hide 7,011 

Onions,  l,:{25  sacks, at  §1  per  sack 5,300 

Sirup,  l.-.o  barrels,  at  §8  per  barrel 1,480 

Wool,  1,071  bales,  at  §40  per  bale CO,  840 

Pitch,  292  barrels,  at  §0  per  barrel J , 752 

Varni.'jh,  124  packages,  at  §I0  per  package 1,240 

Dried  apples,  2, Oii:5  packages,  at  .§10  per  package 20,030 

Flour,  29,815  barrels,  at  .§5  per  barrel 149,  075 

Salmon,  2,504  packages,  at  §8  50  per  package 21 ,  794 

Staves  and  headings,  59,203,  average ]5,  000 

Shooks,  14,972, at  40  cents  per  shook ), 989 

Value  of  specified  merchandise,  produce,  «&c 455, 457 

Value  of  gold  dast,  bar.s,  iV.c 8.07O,(iO0 

The  foregoing  rabies,  although  necessarily  veiy  incomplete,  exhibit  the  gratifying  fact  that 
the  export  trade  of  Portland  is  greatly  on  the  increase,  the  above  amount  being  §1,120,533 
iu  excess  of  1865. 

The  next  place  of  interest,  ascending  the  Willamette,  is  Oswego,  eight  rnil-os 
froui  Portland.     Here  is  located  the  first  iron  furnace  on  the  I'acilic  coast. 


582  EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

Four  miles  above  tliis  place  is  Oregon  City,  situated  on  tlie  east  hank,  just  below 
the  Great  falls.  This  is  a  thriving  little  place  of  1,200  inhabitants.  Woollen 
and  paper  factories  are  the  chief  featm-es  of  the  place.  Salem  is  about  65  miles 
by  water  from  Oregon  City,  and  is  the  capital  of  the  State.  It  contains  a  popu- 
lation estimated  at  4,000.  Thirty-five  miles  further  up  is  Albany,  a  prosperous 
town  and  known  as  the  granary  of  Oregon  ;  estimated  population,  2,500.  The 
next  place  of  importance  is  Corvallis,  a  flourishing  little  city  of  about  3,000 
inhabitants,  distant  from  Albany  15  miles.  Eugene  City,  71  miles  from  Cor- 
vallis, is  the  next  place  of  importance,  and  is  located  at  the  head  of  navigation 
on  the  Willamette  river ;  population  estimated  at  2,000.  There  are  many  small 
towns  and  neiglilwrhood  landings  situated  at  different  points  between  the  places 
named,  all  or  most  of  which  present  evidences  of  thrift. 

The  jnincipal  towns  on  the  Columbia  river  are,  first,  Astoria,  about  18  miles 
from  the  bar;  population  estimated  at  1,000.  Nest  is  Cathlamette,  30  miles; 
then  Oak  Point,  12  miles;  then  Rainier,  15  miles;  then  St.  Helens,  20  miles; 
then  Vancouver,  24  miles ;  then  Cascades,  45  miles.  All  of  these  places,  except 
Astoria  and  Vancouver,  are  small  villages  or  landings.  At  Cascades  is  the  first 
portage  on  the  Columbia.  On  the  north  side  of  the  river,  as  before  stated,  is  an 
iron  railroad  six  miles  long ;  on  the  south  side  is  a  wooden  trainway  of  six  miles, 
over  which  passed  all  the  freight  of  the  upper  Columbia  prior  to  April,  1S63,  at 
which  time  the  iron  road  was  completed.  The  next  town  of  any  importance  is 
the  Dalles,  50  miles  further  up.  This  is  a  busy  little  place,  containing  a  popu- 
ulation  of  about  2,500.  Here  another  iron  railroad  of  14  miles  connects  witli 
the  upper  boats  at  Celilo.  Eighty-five  miles  fiu'ther  up  is  Umatilla,  the  great 
landing-place  for  Idaho  and  eastern  Oregon  ;  its  population  is  al»out  1,500. 
Thirty-live  miles  further  up  is  Wallula,  or  old  Fort  Walla-Walla.  This  is  the 
landing  for  Walla- Walla  and  Grande  Ronde  valleys,  and  during  the  season  of 
low  water  is  the  landing  for  goods  shipped  to  Montana  via  Pen  d'Oreille  lake, 
and  for  Fort  Colville  and  British  Columbia.  This  place,  though  one  of  the 
oldest,  lias  only  a  population  of  about  200.  The  next  and  only  place  of  any 
note  above  Wallula  is  Lewiston,  in  Idaho,  distant  about  160  miles.  This  place 
has  a  population  of  about  1,000,  is  the  head  of  navigation  on  Snake  river  west 
of  the  mountains,  and  was  formerly  the  seat  of  government  of  Idaho  Temtory. 


SECTIOX   II. 

AGRICULTURAL  AKD  MISCELLANEOUS  RESOURCES. 

Oregon  is  peculiarly  an  agricultural  and  fruit-growing  State,  though  by  nc 
means  deficient  in  valuable  mineral  resources.     I^ossessing  a  climate  of  uurivallet' 
salubrity,  aboiniding  in  vast  tracts  of  rich  arable  lands,  heavily  timbered  lhrough-| 
t)ut  its  mountain  ranges,  watered  by  innumerable  s})rings  and  streams,  and  sul 
ject  to  none  of  the  drawl»acks  arising  iVuiu  the  chilling  winds  and  seasons  o^ 
aridity  which  prevail  furthei  south,  it  is  justly  considered  the  most  favored  regioB 
on  the  Pacific  i>l<ipe  as  a  home  i'or  an  agricultural,  fruit-growina",  and  manufa* 
ttuing  popuhitiou.     As  yet  it  is  but  thinly  settled,  a  fact  owing  in  ])art  to  th(i 
injudicious  system  pursued  under  the  donation  act  of  1852,  by  which  large  tracts' 
of  land  (320  acres  to  single  settlers,  G40  to  married  couples)  were  held  by  per- 
sons who  were  unable  to  cultivate  tliem  ;  and  in  part  to  the  insufficiency  of  com- 
munication with  the  markets  of  the  world.     These  drawbacks,  however,  will 
soon  be  reraedied  by  the  establishment  of  railroads,  the  increase  of  steam  navi- 
gation, and  the  consequent  accession  of  popvdation.     The  wonderful  richness  of 
the  valleys,  the  extraordinary  inducements  to  settlement  by  families,  the  beauty 


WEST  OF  THE  KOCKY  MOUNTAINS.  583 

of  the  sccnorv  ami  licalthfuliiess  of  tho  climate,  must  soon  attract  large  immi- 
o-ration.  The  writer  lias  traversed  this  State  from  the  Columbia  river  to  tho 
southern  boundary,  and  can  safely  assert  that  there  is  no  equal  extent  of  coun- 
try on  the  Pacific  slope  abounding-  in  such  a  variety  of  attractions  to, those  who 
seek  pleasant  homes.  The  AVillamette,  the  Umpqua,  Rogue  River,  and  many 
others,  are  regions  unrivalled  for  fanning  and  stock-raising. 

The  following  extracts  from  a  premium  essay  written  by  Mr.  W.  Lair  Hill  for 
the  State  Agricultural  Society  give  a  correct  idea  of  the  general  resources  and 
productions  of  Oregon.  The  descriptions  of  the  country  and  facts  stated  are 
entirely  reliable  : 

Oregon  is  peculiar  in  climate,  especially  that  portion  lying  west  of  tlie  Cascade  moun- 
tains, wbich  is  atifected  greatly  by  its  proximity  to  the  ocean.  This  portion  has  a  climate  in 
many  respects  closely  resembling  that  of  England.  Although  in  a  high  latitude,  it  is  mild — 
neither  very  hot  in  summer  nor  extremely  cold  in  winter  ;  is  damp  and  somewhat  disagree- 
able during  what  is  termed  the  rainy  season,  corresponding  with  the  winter  of  the  east ;  but 
delightful  through  the  summer  and  autumn. 

Ttie  climate  in  the  eastern  portion  of  the  State  has  some  resemblance  to  that  of  the  older 
northwestern  States,  excepting  the  frequent  rains  which  fall  in  those  States  during  the  late 
summer  months. 

As  a  whole,  the  State  of  Oregon  presents  so  great  a  variety  of  climate  that  it  cannot  be 
accuratel}'  exhibited  undtjr  any  general  description,  and  which  will  more  fully  appear  from 
special  descriptions  and  tables  hereafter  presented.  It  is  a  matter  to  be  regretted  that  the 
compass  of  a  brief  essay  does  not  permit  the  presentation  of  minute  and  extensive  details  of 
observations  on  this,  as  well  as  many  other  subjects  connected  with  this  infant  State,  so  far 
as  the  same  are  obtainable ;  but  it  is  much  more  to  be  regretted  that  no  record  has  been  kept 
from  which  statistical  intbrmation  might  be  collected,  showing  the  industrial  and  commercial 
capabilities  of  the  State,  except  to  a  veiy  limited  extent. 

Oregon  was  admitted  into  the  Union  in  February,  1859,  and  in  1S61  began  to  give  addi- 
tional promise  of  future  prosperity  by  the  discovery  of  rich  and  extensive  gold  mines  on  its 
northeastern  border  and  the  contiguous  districts  of  Washington  Territory'. 

Physical  Gf.ographv,  «fcc.— All  the  country  in  North  America  lying  west  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi river  lias  a  common  axis  of  elevation,  which  is  the  great  chain  of  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains, and  their  southern  continuation,  the  Cordilleras  of  Mexico.  The  Sierra  Nevada  range, 
with  its  northern  extension,  the  Cascade  mountains  of  Oregon  and  Washington  Territory, 
constitutes  a  secondary  axis  which  materially  afiects  the  entire  country  of  the  Pacitic  coast, 
both  in  soil  and  climate.  To  the  volcanic  forces  of  these  two  great  central  lines  of  subter- 
raneous commotion  is  originally  due  the  physical  geography  of  Oregon. 

It  is  generally  known  that  the  Kocky  mountain  range  is  chiefly  of  igneous  composition. 
Some  portions  of  this  range  are  of  plutouic  character,  while  some  bear  unmistakable  evi- 
dences that  their  upheaval  was  prior  to  the  process  of  consolidation.  Sandstone  abounds  in 
many  places  in  these  mountains,  and  very  considerable  Silurian  deposits  are  also  found. 
Gold-bearing  rocks  occur  in  various  localities.  Where  sedimentary  rocks  are  found  they  are 
frequently  regular  in  their  stratification ;  generally,  indeed,  distorted  from  their  original 
position,  but  nevertheless  retaining  perfectly  their  stratified  character.  These  rocks  are 
usually  interlaid  with  micaceous  slate,  and  rest  on  masses  of  granite  and  gneiss.  Mica  is  so 
abundant  in  some  places  that  it  may  be  found  in  extremely  thin  flakes  in  all  the  water  of'the 
mountain  streams. 

Of  the  same  general  character  is  the  geological  structure  of  the  Cascade  range,  except  that 
there  is  less  of  stratified  rocks,  and  stronger  indications  of  recent  volcanic  action  are  observed. 
Basaltic  and  granitic  rocks  constitute  the  geological  basis  of  tho  country.  Slate  and  other 
argillaceous  rocks,  and  a  sort  of  irreducable  limestone,  also  characterize  the  western  slope 
of  the  continent.  Metamoii)hic  features  become  more  marked  the  nearer  we  apjiroach  tlie 
Pacific  coast,  until,  arriving  at  the  Cascade  range,  this  characteristic  is  seen  in  its  most  clear 
and  unmistakable  aspects. 

Certain  differences  between  tho  soil  and  vegetation  on  the  east  and  those  on  the  west  side 
of  this  second  volcanioaxis  of  the  country  may,  it  is  thought,  be  satisfactorily  explained  by 
atmospheric  or  meteorological  peculiarities;  so  that  the  upheaval  of  this  ridge,  notwith- 
standing those  difterences,  was  probably  contemporaneous  with  that  of  the  Ivocky  moun- 
tains, or  at  least  at  no  earlier  period.  Whether  this  be  so  or  not,  it  is  certain  that  tho  Cas- 
cade range  has  undergone  much  more  recent  convulsions ;  and,  indeed,  of  tlic  numerous 
vents  standing  along  the  summit  line,  some  might  be  properly  classed,  at  present,  as  active 
volcanoes. 

Between  the  Cascade  and  Kocky  mountain  chains,  the  country  is  composed  of  immense 
plateaux,  interspersed  with  numerous  unconnected  mountain  ridges,  of  recent  volcanic  origin. 
Some  of  these  are  covered  with  immense  forests,  while  others  are  merely  sterile  masses  of 


584  EESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

trappean  rocks,  piled  together  iu  rugged  heaps  by  the  elevatory  force  of  internal  fires.  By 
some  of  these  less  noted  elevations  and  by  spurs  projecting  from  the  two  main  ranges,  the 
broad  table  lauds  above  mentioned  are  divided  into  three  distinct  valleys,  or  rather  basins  ; 
namely : 

The  Utah  basin,  centjing  at  Great  Salt  lake,  but  having  many  undulations  forming 
minor  geographical  centres,  to  which  its  rivers  flow  and  disappear  in  the  sandy  plains,  or 
discharge  their  currents  into  inland  lakes.     This  basin  has  no  outlet  to  the  sea. 

The  Klamath  basin,  lying  to  the  northwest  of  the  Utah,  and  drained  by  the  Klamath 
river,  running  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  and  the  river  Des  Chutes,  emptying  into  the  Columbia. 

The  Columbia  River  basin  extends  over  a  vast  area  of  country,  including  all  that  portion 
of  Oregon  lying  east  of  the  Cascade  mountains,  and  hnown  as  eastern  Oregon,  except  the 
small  surface  occupied  by  the  Klamath,  a  part  of  which  is  in  California,  and  an  almost 
equally  small  portion  of  the  Utah  basin,  which  lies  principally  in  Utah  Territory. 

Eastern  Oregon,  besides  containing  several  large  lakes,  is  traversed  by  numerous  rivers, 
but  none  are  navigable  except  the  Columbia  and  the  Snake  or  Lewis  river  ;  which  two 
streams,  however,  afford  facilities  for  steamboat  travel  from  the  ocean,  across  the  whole 
extent  of  the  State  in  its  greater  dimension,  from  west  to  east. 

That  portion  of  the  State  lying  west  of  the  Cascade  mountains  is  divided  into  three  prin- 
cipal valleys,  the  Willamette,  the  Umpqua,  and  Rogue  river,  drained  by  the  rivers  bearing 
these  respective  names.  This  country  is  quite  different  from  eastern  Oregon  iu  respect  to  its 
physical  geography,  geology,  and  climate. 

Although  the  general  character  of  this  region  is  indicative  of  its  having  had  formerly  a 
volcanic  origin,  still  there  is  found  here  a  large  proportion  of  sedimentary  recks,  especially 
•sandstone  and  a  sort  of  conglomerate  of  highly  silicious  composition,  which  often  contains 
shells  and  other  indications  of  its  sedimentaiy  formation.  In  the  Willamette  valley  this 
feature  is  chiefly  observed  on  the  western  side  of  the  river  ?  and  in  the  Umpqua  and  Rogue 
River  valleys  it  becomes  more  marked  on  approaching  the  sea-coast.  Shales  and  a  sort  of 
argillaceous  limestone,  irreducable  by  the  ordinary  process  of  heating  and  slaking,  also 
abound  in  many  places.  The  country  here  is  of  a  much  less  mineral  character  than  that 
east  of  the  Cascade  mountains,  or  even  than  those  mountains  themselves.  Notwithstanding 
the  evidences  of  volcanic  origin  common  to  all  the  western  coast  of  America,  and  of  which 
this  region  presents  many,  the  rocks  here,  and  especially  on  the  Coast  mountains ,  are  often 
found  regularly  stratified,  and  in  some  instances  their  parallelism  remains  undisturbed  for 
considerable  distances. 

The  geological  basis  of  the  Coast  mountains  is  sandstone.  Scoriaceous  and  trappean 
masses  occur  in  the  more  volcanic  localities.  At  the  intersection  of  these  mountains  by  the 
Umpqua  river,  sandstone  prevails,  and  the  strata  remain  uninterrupted,  except  at  long 
intervals. 

Numerous  bays  and  estuaries  of  different  magnitudes  intersect  the  shore  along  the  western 
border  of  the  State,  and  several  streams  having  ■  their  sources  in  the  Coast  mountains  flow 
into  the  ocean  through  small  valleys  of  great  fertility  and  beauty. 

Climate. — Eastern  Oregon  possesses  a  climate  much  resembling  that  of  the  Upper  Mis- 
sissippi valley,  but  not  so  cold.  It  is  dry  and  open  ;  usually  somewhat  bleak,  owing  to  the 
large  proportion  of  prairie  land,  but  seldom  bitter  cold,  the  mercury  rarely  falling  below 
zero  in  the  extreme  of  winter.  Last  winter,  however,  it  was  exceedingly  cold  in  this  region ; 
but  that  was  a  winter  unexampled  in  severity  everywhere  in  the  Pacific  States. 

Spring  in  eastern  Oregon  is  fine,  early,  and  open.  Suumier  is  hot  and  generally  dry, 
with  cool  nights.  Variations  of  temperature,  corresponding  with  differences  of  altitude,  are 
observed,  sometimes  amounting  to  several  degrees  at  jilaces  only  a  few  leagues  apart. 
Autumn  frosts  begin  some  time  iu  October,  but  it  does  not  become  wintry  till  very  late.  Lit- 
tle rain  or  snow  falls  except  in  the  mountains.  Eastern  Oregon  is  exposed  to  an  almost  con- 
tinuous breeze  which  sometimes  swells  into  quite  a  gale,  but  storms  never  occur.  TheAvind 
in  sunuiier  is  from  the  southwest. 

Western  Oregon  has  a  moist,  mild,  and  peculiarly  uuil^orm  climate.  Except  in  rare  cases 
the  winter  is  not  cold  nor  the  summer  hot  more  than  two  or  three  days  in  succession,  and 
extreme  heat  or  cold  never  occurs. 

It  is  rarely  necessary  to  feed  stock  for  more  than  a  fortnight,  and  frequently  not  at  all 
during  the  whole  year. 

The  amount  of  rain  which  falls  in  this  part  of  the  State  during  the  rainy  season  has  been 
greatly  exaggerated,  as  will  be  seen  by  reference  to  the  annexed  tables,  which  exhibit  more 
specifically  the  ciimatical  peculiarities  of  the  State. 

Obsen'ations  taken  in  several  other  States  are  inserted  in  some  of  the  tables  for  the  purpose 
of  making  comparisons.  The  first  table  is  compiled  chiefly  from  the  Smithsonian  report; 
the  rest  are  from  various  reliable  sources. 


WEST   OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 
Tahle  I. — Showing  comparative  minn  temperatures. 


585 


* 

S 

a 

Time. 

1 

o 

o 

'o 

a 

"_ 

5 

>< 

C3 

o 

o 

rC 

a 

cT 

o 
o 

to 

'A 

3 

O 

> 

^ 

3 

3] 

5 

c 
.o 

.3 

< 

O 

Q 

-< 

s 

M 

< 

Q 

1  1-5 

1  1-6 

3i 

111 

2 

5i 

24 

3J 

51.16 

5ii.  19 

53.  00 

51.34 

42.  3.3 

.59. 97 

47.61 

47  36 

kSumiiier  tt'nipfniture 

61.3fi 

67.13 

70.  36 

72.  51 

69.95 

71.08 

70. 17 

71.42 

Auiumu  temperature 

51.  5.3 

.5,?.  4 1 

5-2. 21 

53.  38 

42.  6i) 

64.  36 

50.  01 

50.  34 

AViiiter  temperature 

4-2.  43 

39.27 

35. 59 

29.  80 

13.06 

52. 29 

25.  83 

2.-).  83 

52.13 

53.00 

52.79 

51.76 

41.97 

61.93 

48.41 

48.75 

The  only  point  in  eastern  Oregon  Avlio.se  temperature  is  exhibited  in  this  tiihle  is  the  Dalles, 
•which,  sitnated  as  it  is,  immediately  at  the  base  of  the  Cascade  mountains,  does  not  I'airly 
represent  the  temperature  of  the  extensive  valleys  farther  east,  which  constitute  the  aj^iicul- 
tiiral  reojion  of  tliat  country.  Tiie  summer,  in  most  of  those  valleys  as  well  as  on  the  table 
lands,  is  nuu-h  warmer  tiiau  at  the  Dalles.  The  winter  temperature,  it  will  be  observed,  is 
much  higher  than  that  of  other  States  in  the  same  latitude,  while  that  of  the  spring  is  nearly 
the  same,  and  the  summer  not  quite  so  high. 


Tat.LE  II. — Shoxcing  the.  viimher  of  rainy  dnys  during  the  icinter,  at  Astoria,  Oregon,  Jillla- 
mctte  valley,  Oregon,  and  Peoria,  Illinois,  respectively. 


Mouth. 

Astoria,  Orcg 

311. 

Willam'tfe 
valley,  Or. 

Peoria,  111. 

1857-8 

1858-9 

1859-60 

18."^  6-7 

1856-7 

1857-S 

21 
25 

17 
9 

16 
14 

19 
20 

19 
15 
19 
17 

9 
13 
15 

6 

9 

10 
4 
10 

Ifi 

6 

8 

Total 

72 

69 

70 

43 

33 

37 

This  table  includes  all  rainy  days,  without  reference  to  whether  it  rained  all  day  or  only  a 
part.  It  also  iucludes  snowy  days,  very  few  of  which  are  seen  in  Oregon  in  an  ordinary 
winter. 

In  184G-'47,  Hugh  Burns,  esq.,  of  the  "Willamette  valley,  kept  a  diary  from  wliich  it 
appears  there  were  lour  days  of  continuous  rain  in  November,  three  in  December,  three  in 
January,  aud  two  in  February,  making  only  12  in  the  four  months  of  tiie  rainy  season. 
During  tiie  sauic  tiuie  there  were  (JG  entirely  clear  days,  viz  :  12  in  November,  17  in  Decem- 
ber, 1(J  in  January,  and  21  in  Febniary.  From  the  tirst  of  November,  1845,  to  the  tirst  of 
March,  le4G,  there  were  20  rainy  and  4U  clear  days  ;  the  rest  were  variable. 


586  EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

Table  III. — Shoicing  the  amount  in  inches,  at  Astoria,  Oregon,  and  Peoria,  HI.,  respectively. 


Month. 


January  . . 
February  . 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August  ... 
September 
October... 
November. 
December. 

Total... 


Astoria,  Oregon. 


1858         3859         J860         1857         1658 


8.58 
4.80 
6.83 
3.52 
2.49 
1.38 
.44 
3.40 
3.91 
4.88 
8.06 
12.44 


10.82 
12.02 
21.52 
2.85 
3.17 
2.10 
.48 
1.42 
9.18 
5.46 
7.77 
6.16 


60. 73      82. 95 


Peoria,  111. 


.37 
5.32 
3.84 
1..39 
2.80 
2.77 
1.40 
5.61 
2.16 
2.10 
1.62 
1.50 


30.88 


1.48 
1.95 
3.15 
6.25 
10.64 
5.95 
5.  £5 
3.24 
2.  9« 
3.24 
4.85 


49.56 


From  this  table  it  would  appear  that  the  amount  of  rain  at  Astoria  is  a  little  less  than  dou- 
ble that  at  Peoria  ;  the  one  in  a  country  where  the  only  winter  known  is  a  rainy  season,  and 
the  other  in  a  country  distinguished  for  its  cold  and  dry  winters. 

Soil  and  extent  of  Agricui-tural  Lands.— The  two  natural  divisions  of  Oregon  dif- 
fer iu  respect  to  the  quality  of  their  soil  as  well  as  in  climate.  The  plateaux  of  eastern 
Oregon  have  a  moderately  rich  soil  whose  chief  component  is  silicia,  and  containing  but  a 
small  amount  of  vegetable  matter.  Little  eftbrt  has  been  made  to  test  its  capabilities  for 
agricultural  purpose  until  very  recently.  The  experiment,  so  far  as  tried,  has  proved  exceed- 
ingly gratifying,  and  many  persons  maintain  that  these  uplands  are  destined  to  be  the  first 
grain  lands  in  the  State.  But  the  natural  adaptation  of  these  immense  tracts  is  to  grazing, 
cattle  herdiftg,  and  bucalic  pursuits.  Rolling  prairies  and  level  plains  of  almost  illimitable 
extent  stretch  out  from  the  foot  of  the  Cascade  mountains  almost  to  the  eastern  border  of  the 
State,  and  are  covered  with  luxuriant  bunch  grass,  (fcstuca, )  affording  an  inexhaustible  pas- 
ture for  any  amount  of  stock.  This  grows  in  large  tufts  not  joined  together  by  their  iibrous 
roots,  as  is  the  case  with  most  other  grasses.  It  grows  to  different  heights,  from  six  to  18 
inches,  according  to  the  quality  of  the  soil.  In  nutritive  properties  it  is  not  excelled  by  any 
grass  known.  Attaining  its  full  growth  about  the  time  the  dry  season  commences,  it  cures 
into  a  fine,  fiavorous  hay,  which,  owing  to  the  absence  of  dew  in  this  region  in  the  summer, 
remains  excellent  until  the  autumn  rains  come,  when  the  whole  country  is  again  covered 
with  green  grass. 

Mountain  streams,  having  their  sources  in  the  mountain  chains,  intersect  these  table  lands 
flowing  through  valleys  and  rondes  of  various  dimensions  and  amazing  fertility.  The  val- 
leys of  the  Des  Chutes  and  its  tributaries  are  all  that  have  been  extensively  tested  with  cereals, 
and  they  liave  yielded  very  large  crops.  Vegetables  of  nearly  all  varieties  yield  almost  fab- 
ulous crops.  Indian  corn  does  as  well  in  eastern  Oregon  as  in  any  State  in  the  Union,  and 
will  soon  become  a  staple  production.  Fruit  promises  finely.  This  is  thought  to  be  as  good 
a  fruit  country  as  that  west  of  the  Cascade  mountains,  so  justly  denominated  the  "  fruit 
garden  of  America." 

Its  hot  sunnners  admirably  adapt  eastern  Oregon  to  the  culture  of  sorghum  or  Chinese 
sugar-cane  ;  and  sufiicient  trial  has  been  made  to  warrant  the  assertion  that  this  plant  can  be 
produced  here  as  successfully  as  in  any  of  the  northwestern  States.  Judge  Laughlin,  of 
Wasco  county,  who  has  paid  some  attention  to  the  cultivation  of  this  plant,  in  a  published 
letter  of  his  dated  January  12, 1861,  says  :  "  I  have  cultivated  some  (sorghum)  the  past  two 
years,  and  find  it  grows  remarkably  well.  *  *  It  will  produce  double  as  much  food  as 
anything  (else)  I  can  raise  on  the  same  amount  of  laud.  *  -  *  Mr.  Phelps,  of  this  county, 
has  made  some  very  nice  sirup,  and  intends  cultivating  a  crop  for  that  purpose  next  season." 

The  cost  of  making  this  sirup  will  not  exceed  50  cents  per  gallon.  Its  market  value  can- 
not be  less  than  one  di)lliir  per  gallon  throughout  the  country,  and  two  or  three  times  as  great 
in  the  mines.  Planted  in  April  the  sugar-cane  matures  well,  and  yields  a  large  per  cent,  of 
saccharine  juice.  A  farmer,  who  would  give  his  entire  attention  to  cultivating  sorghum  and 
manufacturing  sirup  in  eastern  Oregon,  could  not  fail  of  amassing  a  large  amount  of  money 
in  a  very  short  space  of  time.  The  extent  of  these  valley  lands  is  not  definitely  known,  as 
no  official  survey  has  ever  beeu  made  of  the  region  in  which  they  lie,  excepting  compara- 
tively small  bodies  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Des  Chutes.  This  stream,  the  largest  aiiluent  of  the 
Columbia  in  Oregon  east  of  the  Cascade  mountains,  flows  through  a  valley  large  enough  to 
maintain  a  population  of  many  thousand  persons.  It  has  already  some  considerable  settle- 
ments, mostly  composed  of  stock  raisers. 

John  Day  river  waters  a  valley  much  larger  than  that  of  the  Des  Chutes,  and  of  equal  fer- 
tility.   It  is  unsettled,  and  offers  great  inducements  to  farmers  desiring  homes  near  the  mines, 


WEST    OF    THE   KOCKY   MOUNTAINS.  587 

where  market  will  always  bo  reaJy,  and  produce  will  conimoml  liigli  prices.  It  is  about  30 
miles  east  of  the  Des  Chutos  and  has  the  same  geueral  trend,  both  runuing  north  into  the 
Columbia. 

Powder  river  runs  tlirouch  the  largest  valley  in  eastern  Oregon,  and  probably  equal  to 
any  t'tlier  in  the  excellent  qualify  of  its  soil.  Emigrants  from  the  east  are  fast  settling  up 
this  valley,  and  the  prospect  is  that  it  will  soon  contain  a  large  population.  No  settlements 
wore  made  on  Powder  river  previous  to  the  discovery  of  the  gold  mines  on  its  head  waters 
but  it  is  stated  that  a  large  number  of  the  emigrants  of  this  season  liave  already  selected  their 
future  homes  there,  and  expect  soon  to  be  surrounded  by  an  industrious  and  thriving  com- 
inuuity,  and  enjoying  all  the  amenities  of  civilization. 

Burnt  river  hiis  its  course  through  a  broken  region,  very  fertile,  but  better  adapted  to  graz- 
ing than  to  agriculture.  This  stream  is  southeast  from  Powder  river,  and  having  the  same 
geueral  direction,  flows  northeast  iuto  Snake  river. 

East  of  Uurut  river  the  country  is  exceedingly  uninviting.  What  valleys  there  are  are 
small  and  fretjuently  unproductive.  The  land,  impregnated  with  alkalies,  has  scarcely  any 
vegetation  growing  upon  it  except  artemesia,  or  sage.  Grass  is  scarce  and  of  poor  quality, 
even  along  the  streams.  Of  his  entering  the  Burnt  river  country  from  this  inhospitable 
waste,  in  his  official  explorations,  General  Fremont  says  he  now  came  iuto  "  a  mountainous 
region  where  the  soil  is  good,  and  in  which  the  face  of  the  country  is  covered  with  nutritive 
grasses  and  dense  forests  ;  land  embracing  many  varieties  of  trees  peculiar  to  the  country, 
and  on  which  the  timber  exhibits  a  luxuriance  of  growth  unknown  to  the  eastern  part  of  the 
continent  and  to  Europe.  This  mountainous  region,"  he  continues,  "  connects  itself  in  the 
southward  and  westward  with  the  elevated  country  belonging  to  the  Cascade  or  California 
range,  and  forms  tho  eastern  limit  of  the  fertile  and  timbered  lauds  along  the  desert  and 
mountainous  region  included  within  the  great  (Utah)  basin." 

The  Grande  Konde,  lying  a  few  leagues  north  of  the  Powder  River  valley,  is  a  beautiful 
circular  valley  some  20  or  30  miles  in  diameter,  watered  by  a  stream  bearing  the  same  iiamB. 
Surrounded  by  high  hills  or  spurs  of  the  Blue  mountains,  its  ampliitheatrical  form,  relieving 
its  smooth,  grassy  surface,  intersected  by  a  bold  stream  fringed  on  either  margin  with  small 
trees,  renders  it  sufticiently  charming,  to  say  nothing  of  the  fertility  of  its  soil,  which  is 
unsurpassed.  Settlements  are  being  made  in  this  valley,  also,  by  the  emigrants  who  have 
come  over  the  plains,  but  it  will  not  all  be  occupied  this  season. 

The  following  analysis  of  the  soil  in  Powder  Eiver  and  Grande  Ronde  valleys  is  reported 
by  Fremont : 


POWDER  RIVER. 

Silica 72.30 

Alumina G.  25 

Carbonate  of  lime 6.  8G 

Carbonate  of  magnesia 4.  t)'2 

Oxide  of  iron 1 .  t'O 

Organic  matter 4. 50 

Water  and  loss  .^ 4. 27 


100.00 


GRANDE  RONDE. 

Silica 70.81 

Alumina 10.97 

Lime  and  magnesia 1.38 

Oxide  of  iron 2. 21 

Organic  matter 8.  lij 

Phospate  of  lime 1.  38 

Water  and  loss 5. 46 


100. 00 


The  Klamath  basin,  it  is  said,  contains  a  large  tract  of  good  agricultural  lands,  but  this 
may  be  questionable,  as  no  experiments  have  yet  been  made  to  test  its  qualities  for  farming 
purposes.  It  is  a  fine  grazing  district;  even  in  the  midst  of  December  it  has  been  fouud 
covered  with  fresh  and  luxuriant  grass.  The  Klamath  is  a  magnificent  lake,  possessing 
one  feature  in  particular,  which  lakes  do  not  ordinarily  have,  viz:  it  has  no  ictttcr  in  it.  It 
is  a  fact,  though  not  gimerally  known,  thiit  this  lake  is  nothing  more  than  a  broad  savannah, 
sometimes  covered  in  places  with  a  thin  sheet  of  water  for  a  brief  period,  but  never  entirely 
inundated,  and  capable  of  being  easily  drained  and  reduced  to  cultivation. 

Goose  lake.  Lake  Abert,  and  some  others  of  considerable  size,  lie  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
Utah  basin,  and  are  said  to  be  surrounded  by  large  tracts  of  as  fine  agricultural  laud  as  can 
be  found  in  the  State.  That  there  is  some  good  country  around  these  lakes,  is  certainly 
true;  but  enough  is  not  known  of  this  region  to  warrant  a  positive  statement  that  they  are 
verj'  extensive. 

Kogue  Kiver  valley,  occupying  the  extreme  southern  portion  of  western  Oregon,  and 
extending  into  California  is  a  broken  country,  or  series  of  valleys,  separated  by  rolling 
highlands,  covered  in  some  places  with  dense  forests  of  fir  and  cedar,  and  in  others  thialy 
timbered  with  oak,  and  finely  set  with  grass.  It  is  a  very  good  country  tor  farming,  and  a 
superior  one  for  stock  raising.  Rogue  river  is  not  navigal)!o  on  accoinit  of  its  numerous 
cascades.  Like  all  the  western  portion  of  the  State,  this  valley  is  well  watered  by  numerous 
mountain  streams,  which  are  sufliciently  large  to  afford  motive  power  for  running  any  amount 
of  machinery.  It  is  thinly  populated,  and  would  furnish  homes  for  an  indefinite  number  of 
immigrants.  Jacksonville,  its  principal  town,  is  a  place  of  some  importance  as  a  miuiug 
town. 


588  EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AXD   TERRITORIES 

The  Umpqua  valley  is  a  beautiful  coimtry,  drained  bv  the  Umpqua  river,  a  stream  of  some 
magnitude,  and  navigable  25  miles  from  its  mouth  for  ocean  vessels.  This  fertile  valley 
contains  ], 000, GOO  of  acres.  It  is  principally  rolling  or  hilly  land,  the  face  of  the  country 
in  many  places  forcibly  reminding  one  of  the  rugged  districts  of  Vermont,  or  the  charming 
stories  he  read  when  but  a  child  of  the  mountain  iiome  of  the  Swiss. 

Numerous  tributaries  of  the  Umpqua,  some  of  them  quite  large,  flow  through  the  valley, 
affording  excellent  water  privileges.  Perhaps  no  country  is  more  conveniently  provided  with 
good  soil,  good  timber,  and  good  water  than  the  Umpqua  valley.  Its  population  is  about 
4,500,  leavingample  room  for  20,000  more,  allowing  160  acres  to  each  family  of  four  persons. 
Eoseburg  and  Winchester,  tlie'most  important  places  in  this  valley,  are  pleasant  villages. 

But  the  most  important  agricultural  district  in  western  Oregon,  and  probably  in  the  whole 
State,  is  the  Willamette  valley.  It  is  separated  from  the  Umpqua  by  the  Calapooya  moun- 
tains, a  densely  timbered  belt,  having  an  altitude  of  about  o,000  feet,  and  extending  from  the 
Cascade  to  the  Coast  range.  This  valley  is  drained  by  the  W' illamette  river,  flowing  north  into 
the  Columbia,  and  which  is  navigable  to  the  distance  of  130  miles  from  its  mouth,  direct 
measure,  with  only  a  single  obstruction,  the  falls  at  Oregon  City. 

No  person  can  survey  the  Willamette  valley  with  its  alternations  of  rich  meadow-like 
prairies,  undulations,  and  beautiful  streams,  without  feeling  that  he  beholds  the  most  delight- 
ful spot  in  America,  The  agricultural  country  Ij'ing  along  the  banks  of  the  Willamette, 
includes  an  area  nearly  equal  to  that  of  the  entire  State  of  Connecticut,  with  a  combination 
of  advantages  inferior  to  no  other  section  of  the  United  States.  Mr.  William  H.  Knight 
describes  this  valley  as  "possessing  a  soil  of  unsurpassed  fertility,  a  mild  and  genial  climate, 
an  abundant  growth  of  timber,  large  natural  pastures,  where  stock  may  range  unsheltered 
the  year  round,  an  excellent  commercial  position,  superior  facilities  for  transportation,  and  a 
rapidly  increasing  population."  This  is  stating  the  case  in  rather  too  strong  a  light,  and 
requires  some  c[ualitication  in  two  of  its  particulars.  The  population  of  the  Willamette 
valley  has  not  increased  very  rapidly  for  some  years  past,  owing  to  causes  which  will  become 
manifest  when  the  subject  of  commerce  is  discussed.  And  the  other  modification  proposed 
is,  that  we  sometimes  have  a  "cold  snap"  of  two  or  three  weeks  duration  in  the  winter,  and 
the  last  winter  still  longer,  so  that  stock  may  not  "range  unsheltered  the  year  round  "  every 
year,  and  should  not  be  forced  to  do  so  any  year,  as  the  continuous  rains  of  the  winter 
months  arc  very  injurious  to  all  kinds  of  domestic  animals.  Aside  from  this  slight  inaccu- 
racy, Mr.  Knight's  description  is  certainly  a  very  correct  one,  and  the  impulse  given  to  the 
State  by  the  recent  discovery  of  extensive  gold  fields  on  the  eastern  border  of  the  State,  cannot 
fail  to  make  it  become  speedily  true  in  respect  to  the  increase  of  population. 

This  valley  is  mostly  smooth  prairie  land,  large  bodies  of  it  uudulatiug,  but  not  hilly, 
interspersed  at  intervals,  never  greater  than  a  few  miles,  often  much  less,  with  sireams  of 
various  sizes,  flowing  in  across  the  valley  from  the  mountains  on  either  side.  Ranges  of 
low  hills,  covered  with  oak  timber,  are  common  throughout  the  valley. 

Some  of  the  largest  affluents  of  the  Willamette,  as  the  Santiam,  Yamhill,  and  Tualatin,  are 
navigable  to  considerable  distances  into  the  interior;  while  there  is  scarcely  one  which  does 
not  afford  an  ample  volume  of  water  to  drive  any  desired  amount  of  machinery  for  milling 
and  manufacturing  purposes. 

The  Willamette,  in  common  with  all  this  region  of  the  Pacific  coast,  belongs  to  the  tertiary 
period.  Shells  and  ligneous  petrifactions  are  numerous,  and  mammal  fossils  Lave  beeu 
ibimd  in  various  places,  indicating  a  very  recent  formation. 

The  soil  of  western  Oregon  may  be  divided  into  four  general  classes,  viz: 

1st.  A  brown  clay  loam,  of  good  quality,  thinly  timbered  with  oak,  producing  good  grass, 
and  alTording  fine  stock  range.  It  is  found  chiefly  along  the  spurs  of  mountains  or  extended 
ranges  of  lulls,  never  in  the  level  prairie. 

2d.  A  dark  or  black  porous  soil  formed  by  the  admixture  of  vegetable  mold  with  the 
clay  loam  just  described.  This  soil  occurs  only  in  the  valleys  close  by  or  between  the  moun- 
tains, and  is  unrivalled  in  productive  power.  Both  of  these  classes  are  thirsty,  and  suffer 
whenever  the  summer  drought  is  of  very  long  duration. 

3d.  A  grayish  calcareous  sandy  loam  of  exceedingly  fine  quality,  covered  with  a  thick 
turf  of  grass,  and  admirally  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  cereals,  especially  wheat,  oats,  and 
barley.  This  class  embraces  five-sixths  of  the  entire  valley,  including  most  of  the  ]>rairie, 
and  much  of  the  oak-tiud^ered  land.  It  is  little  affected  by  drought,  and  though  not  natm-ally 
porous,  is  pulverized  with  great  facility,  and  is  exceedingly  mellow. 

4t,h.  A  strictly  alluvial  soil,  lying*  along  the  immediate  banks  of  the  river,  and  composed 
of  sand,  vegetable  matter,  and  various  decomposed  earths,  washed  by  the  current  from  above. 
Most  of  this  class  of  soil  is  overflowed  in  extraordinary  freshets,  which,  however,  never  occur 
in  the  growing  season  of  the  year,  and  it  is  tmexcelled  in  fertility. 

Many  small  and  very  rich  valleys  lie  along  the  seacoast,  and  will  doubtless  yet  become 
valuable.  Among  them  are  the  Tillamook,  situated  on  a  bay  of  the  same  name,  the  Celets, 
the  Yaquina  on  Yaquiua  bay  and  river,  the  Coquille  on  Coquille  river.  The  Coquille  and 
Tillamook  already  contain  settlements  of  some  magnitude. 

Harborjj. — There  are  already  opened  four  ports  of  entry  in  this  State.  The  most  import- 
ant harbor  is  that  of  the  Columbia  river,  but  it  is  not  the  only  one  likely  ever  to  assume 
much  importance.     Umpqua  river,  Port  Orford,  and  the  Coquille  want  nothing  but  the  set- 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  589 

tlement  of  tho  rich  districts  surrounding  them  to  hrinp  them  into  consideration  as  commercial 
points,  while  vessels  have  entered  several  others  and  found  pood  liarbors.  Yaquina  bay, 
tirst  broup:lit  to  notice  only  a  year  ap;o,  is  said  to  be  an  excellent  harbor,  extending  3U  milis 
into  the  coast,  and  easy  of  access  from  the  heart  of  the  Wilhuiiette  valley. 

Health. — It  would  seem  inviduous  to  discriminate  in  favor  of  any  portion  of  the  State 
of  Oregon  in  respect  to  its  salubrity.  Everything  that  nature  could  do  to  render  a  country 
perfectly  healthful  has  been  done  for  this  State.  The  mountain  air,  not  less  than  the  moun- 
tain water,  has  a  vivifying  influence;  and  the  gentle  breezes  of  summer,  coming  fresh  from 
the  sea,  arc  a  pleasant  and  etl'ectual  preventive  against  all  the  violent  diseases  ordinarily  to 
be  feared  in  dry  and  sultry  regions. 

The  climate  of  Oregon  is  thought  to  be  unfavorable  to  the  health  of  persons  who  are  pre- 
disposed to  pulmonary  atlections.  This  is  probably  true.  Notwithstanding  this  general 
opinion,  however,  it,  is  found  that  fewer  persons  die  here  of  consumption,  in  proportion  to 
the  population,  than  in  any  one  of  the  New  England  States.  And  it  is  certainly  beyond 
question,  that  in  everv  other  respect,  there  is  no  other  State  in  the  Union  worthy  to  be  com- 
pared with  this  I'or  salubrity  of  climate. 

Persons  are  frequently  met  with  hero  who  had  been  unable  to  perform  any  labor  for  years 
before  leaving  the  east,  on  account  of  ill  health,  but  have  become  rugged  and  strong  in  this 
country,  and  are  now  regularly  engaged  in  their  callings  without  any  physical  inconvenience 
whatever. 

Miscellaneous. — Some  peculiarities  and  special  adaptation  of  this  State  deserve  to  bo 
more  particularly  noticed,  though  space  will  not  allow  this  to  be  done  at  length. 

SncEP. — A  very  intelligent  writer  of  New  England  calls  Oregon  a  "  mammoth  sheep  pas- 
ture." From  what  has  been  exhibited  of  its  soil,  climate,  and  mines,  it  will  be  perceived 
that,  with  equal  propriety  and  no  greater  allowance  of  hyperbole,  it  might  be  denominated, 
also,  a  mannnoth  grain  tield  and  vegetable  garden,  and  a  mammoth  gold  placer.  In  a  country 
eminently  fitted  by  nature  for  so  many  branches  of  business  as  Oregon,  discrimination  iu 
favor  of  any  one  particularly  will  seem  unwarranted,  not  to  say  unjust.  But  certainly  if 
Oregon  has  a  speciality,  it  is  her  pro-eminence  as  a  wool-growing  country  Until  very 
recently,  little  attention  has  been  paid  to  the  matter  of  sheep  raising,  but  it  is  now  becoming 
one  of  the  staple  interests  of  the  State.  Sheep  thrive  better  here  than  iu  any  other  State. 
Disease  among  them  is  exceedingly  rare.  They  increase  here  faster  than  in  the  east,  and 
the  wool  is  of  excellent  quality.  Only  one  matmfactory  of  woollen  goods  is  yet  iu  iictivo 
operation.  This  is  located  at  Salem.  Another  is  in  course  of  construction  in  Linn  county. 
The  wool  clip  of  the  State,  in  1861,  amounted  to  444,000  pounds.  That  in  18(52  (estimated 
by  Mr.  L.  E.  Pratt,  of  the  Willamette  Woollen  Manufacttuiug  Company)  is  1344,000  pounds. 
The  difference  of  amount  is  owing  chiefly  to  the  losses  of  last  winter.  The  average  price  of 
wool,  in  18GJ,  was  18  cents  a  pound;  in  1862  it  is  20  cents.  In  respect  to  the  quality  of 
Oregon  wool,  Mr.  Pratt  says  "there  is  no  inferior  wool  grown  in  the  State."  When  the 
eastern  papers  quote  the  price  of  "Oregon  burr  wool,"  they  mislead  dealers  to  the  prejudice 
of  this  State,  as  there  are  no  burrs  in  the  country  ;  they  probably  refer  to  wool  grown  iu  Cali- 
fornia, and  are  imposed  upon  by  dealers  of  that  State. 

The  Willamette  Woollen  Manufacturing  Company  turn  out  annually  4,000  pairs  of  blanketa, 
10,000  yards  flannels,  GO, 000  yards  cloths  and  tweeds,  and  4,000  pounds  stocking  yarn.  The 
cloths  are  worth,  on  an  average,  $1   12.J  per  yard  ;  the  blankets,  $8. 

The  expenses  of  the  factory  are  $.5t5,000. 

Li'.MHEK. — Everything  has  been  done  which  nature  could  do  to  make  Oregon  to  tho  Pacific 
what  Maine  is  to  the  Atlantic  coast.  The  best  of  timber,  with  unexampled  water  privileges 
convenient  of  access  fur  sea-going  vessels,  leaves  nothing  to  be  desired  in  this  respect  but 
enterprising  men  who  will  engage  in  tho  business  of  supplying  foreign  markets. 

Fisiir.KlES. — All  along  the  sea-coast  oyster  and  salmon  fisheries  might  be  made  highly 
profitable.  The  salmon  on  this  coast  are  not  only  more  abundant,  but  acknowledged  to  be 
of  nuich  better  quality  than  those  of  the  Atlantic.  Clam  and  cod  fisheries  might  also  be 
established  along  the  coast. 

Bee.s. — The  introduction  of  bees  into  Oregon  is  of  very  recent  date.  They  prosper  well, 
and  produce  a  large  amount  of  honey.  Three  years  since  a  hive  was  worth  !^150  ;  now  it  is 
worth  §25. 

Fri'IT. — Reference  has  already  been  made  to  this,  but  something  a  little  more  specific  is 
required.  For  apples  and  pears  Oregon  is  unrivalled.  Cherries  tluive  passably  well. 
Peaches  do  not  generally  succeed  well,  except  some  verv  hardy  varieties.  Plums  are  in  great 
abundance,  and  fairly  flavored.  Quinces  and  apricots  flourish.  Grapes  are  good,  especially 
early  varieties.  Shrub  fruits  generally  produce  exceedingly  well.  All  in  all,  Oregon  is  tlvc' 
fruit  garden  of  America,  if  not  of  the  world. 
PlLSE  of  all  kinds,  like  cereals,  yield  largely. 

Co.ALMEKCK. — From  the  geographical  position  and  internal  resources  already  shown,  it  does 
not  require  that  nnich  should  be  said  of  its  commerce.  Certain  circumstances,  however, 
have  prevented  the  development  of  the  strength  of  the  State  in  this  respect,  the  principal  of 
which  is  the  law  under  which  the  land  of  Oregon  is  held.  At  an  early  period  of  the  settle- 
ment of  the  country,  a  law  was  jiassed  by  Congress  donating  G40  acres  of  land  to  each  man 
having  a  wife — or  rather  320  acres  ea«h  to  the  man  and  wife — and  320  acres  each  to  single 


I 


"590  RESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

men  settling  in  the  Territory.  The  result  of  this  large  donation  has  been  to  render  the  popu- 
liitiou  of  the  State  so  sparse  that  all  interests  of  the  body  social,  all  the  nerves  of  civilization 
and  progress  have  been  completely  paralyzed.  This  effect  has  been  visible  more  in  connec- 
tion with  the  commercial  than  with  any  other  branch  of  the  social  economy  of  the  State, 
unless  it  be  the  educatiopal.  It  is  hoped,  however,  that  these  detrimental  consequences  of 
the  nation's  liberality  will  not  longer  continue  to  operate  as  they  have  done  hitherto;  since 
the  largeness  of  the  gift  has  reduced  a  great  majority  of  the  donees  to  such  a  condition  as 
compels  them  to  divide  their  large  tracts  of  land.  When  this  is  done,  and  not  before,  Oregon 
will  begin  to  exhibit  that  degree  of  prosperity  for  which  God  has  given  her  such  ample  capa- 
bilities. 

Schools. — Oregon,  though  a  new  country,  is  not  without  its  school  system,  and  the  people 
of  the  State  manifest  an  interest  in  the  subject  of  education  which  cannot  fail  of  raising  the 
intelligence  and  refinement  of  the  country  to  a  high  standard  as  soon  as  the  population  is 
.sufficient,  Common  schools  are  kept  in  almost  every  neighborhood,  and  grade  schools  and 
academies  are  located  in  several  places.     Limits  of  space  forbid  more  specific  statements. 

CuuiiCHES. — Also  the  religious  statistics  of  the  State  will  evidence  that  the  immigrant  to 
Oregon  need  not  f<^ar  that  he  is  coming  to  a  barbarous  or  half-civilized  land.  While  the  popu- 
lation of  the  State  is  only  about  (30,000,  it  contains 

Denomination.  Churches,     Members. 

Methodist 3:}  2, 0«3 

Baptist 29  1,073 

Congregationalist 10  127 

Moravian 00  700 

Reformers,  (number  large,  but  not  accurately  known.) 

Catholic 8  10  000 

TilK  QUESlMON. — It  may  now  be  asked  where  and  on  what  terms  can  land  be  obtained  in 
, Oregon.  In  the  western  portion  of  the  State,  that  is  in  the  Rogue  river,  Umpqua,  and  Wil- 
lamette valleys,  the  best  laud  is  occupied.  Farms  can  be  had,  however,  in  these  valleys  for 
from  $.")  to  §10  per  acre,  according  to  location.  There  is  ample  room,  and  settlement  is  invited. 
As  good  agricultural  land  as  there  is  in  the  world  can  be  bought  for  $8  per  acre  in  any  of 
these  districts. 

The  laud  in  eastern  Oregon  is,  for  the  most  part,  vacant.  Homes  may  be  obtained  by 
simply  occupying  them  under  the  provisions  of  the  homestead  law,  w'hich  will  take  effect  on 
the  1st  day  of  January,  1863,  or  by  the  provisions  of  the  pre-emption  law.  These  lands  are 
not  yet  .surveyed,  but  no  difBculty  need  be  apprehended  on  this  account.  The  immigrant 
Las  nothing  to  do  but  to  comply  with  the  conditions  under  which  he  takes,  and  his  title  will  be 
secure  to  a  home  for  his  family  which  even  the  rapacity  of  pitiless  creditors  cannot  wrest  from 
them,  and  which  in  return  for  moderate  industry  will  enable  him  always  to  have  enough  au<i 
to  spare  of  the  good  things  of  this  world. 


SECTION    III. 

MINERAL  RESOURCES. 

I^e  mineral  resources  of  Oregon,  tlioiigli  not  so  tliorouglily  prospected  as 
those  of  adjacent  States  and  Territories,  are  butli  extensive  and  valuable,  and 
^vill  no  doul^t  at  some  future  time  form  a  prominent  source  of  wealth. 

Placer  mining  has  been  carried  on  extensively  and  profitably  in  the  southern 
counties  since  18-52,  and  the  mines  of  John  Day  and  Powder  river  have  yielded 
several  millions  of  doUars  since  their  discovory  in  1860.  The  annual  jn-odiict 
of  these  mines,  tmtil  within  the  last  two  years,  has  been  from  81,500,000  to 
$2,000,000.  In  common  with  the  siu'lace  deposits  of  elsewhere,  there  is  a  gradual 
diminntion  as  tlie  placers  bec(^nic  exhausted.  New  discoveries,  however,  are 
being  contiimally  made. 

Willow  Ckkkk  IMixes. — A  writer  in  the  Oregoniau  thus  describes  the  mines 
in  the  Willow  creek  country,  a  region  which  has  attracted  considerable  attention 
of  late: 

Willow  creek  is  a  branch  of  the  M.ilheur,  having  its  source  near  the  head  of  John  Day's 
river,  and,  flowing  near  100  miles  in  an  easterly  direction,  discbarges  its  waters  into  the 
Malheur  about  15  miles  above  its  junction  with  Snake  river.  Although  a  long  stream. 
Willow  creek,  owing  to  the  nature  of  the  country  through  which  it  flows,  much  of  it  being 
a  low  mountain  or  hill  country,  destitute  of  timber,  receives  but  few  tributaries,  and  those 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS-  591 

few  of  small  size.  It  is  but  a  small  stream  in  proportion  to  its  length,  and  its  snrroundings 
are  gloomy  eiK>up:h  aiul  (lifter  but  little  from  those  of  the  Malheur,  Owyhee,  and  other  triu- 
utarios,  on  the  south  sitli'  of  Suakc  river,  betwoeu  Farewell  Bcud  autl  old  Fort  Hall. 

The  mines  on  the  tributarie.s  of  Willow  creek  were,  I  l)eliove,  first  discovered  in  1862,  at 
what  is  kuown  as  Mormon  or  Humboldt  basin,  nearly  at  the  same  time,  by  one  party  from 
Salt  lake  and  another  from  the  Humboldt  miniufj  region  in  Nevada.  This  is  a  small  but 
rich  camp,  and  only  lacks  plenty  of  water  to  render  it  one  of  the  richest  in  the  upper  coun- 
try. IJut  water  it  can  never  have  from  any  outside  source,  as  the  basin  is  higher  than  the 
source  of  any  of  the  streams  around  it,  so  that  the  miners  in  that  locality  will  ha^e  to  ba 
content  with  the  scanty  supply  they  now  have  for  three  or  four  months  in  the  year. 

But  what  are  known  as  the  Willow  creek  mines  are  situated  on  the  south  slope  of  the 
divide,  between  the  waters  of  Willow  creek  and  Burnt  river,  and  are  now  divided  into 
Shasta,  Easton,  and  Willow  Creek  districts. 

Shasta  district  comprises  Shasta  creek,  Rich  creek,  Cottonwood  creek.  Quartz  gulch,  and 
many  others.  Mining  has  been  carried  on  to  some  extent  on  Shasta  creek  for  several  years, 
but  it  was  not  until  last  summer  that  the  district  was  prospected  to  any  extent,  or  assumed 
any  importance  as  a  mining  camp,  or  became  known  as  such  outside  of  its  immediate 
vicinity.  Since  then  greatly  exaggerated  reports  have  gained  circulation  in  Idaho,  Oregon, 
California,  &c..  as  to  the  richness  and  extent  of  the  mines.  In  most  of  the  creeks  and 
gulches  in  Shasta  district  good  prospects  have  been  obtained  of  rather  coarse  gold,  mostly 
on  the  bed  rock,  w  liich  is  usually  of  slate,  and  generally  from  10  to  25  feet  below  the  surface. 
Shasta,  like  most  of  mining  districts,  contains  an  embryo  town  which  rejoices  in  the  name 
of  El  Dorado  City,  inditferently  supplied  with  everything  but  whiskey. 

Easton  district  was  organized  last  summer,  and  is  situate  east  of  and  joining  Shasta  dis- 
trict. It  contains  a  large  number  of  gulches,  some  of  which  were  worked  during  last  sum- 
mer, paying  very  well.  Good  prospects  have  been  obtained  in  many  others,  and  if  water 
were  plenty  it  would  be  a  lively  camp  next  season,  and  continue  so  for  two  or  three  years. 
In  these  districts  the  gold  is  liner  than  in  Shasta  district,  and  the  bed  rock  (if  rock  it  can  be 
called)  is  a  kind  of  cement  of  clay  and  gravel. 

Willow  Creek  district  has  recently  organized,  and  comprises  the  lower  part  of  Mormon 
Basin  creek  and  a  number  of  gulches  cast  of  it,  but  gold  in  paying  quantities  has  only  been 
found  in  one  of  them.  This  district  is  immediately  east  of  Easton  district,  and  the  mines 
are  of  the  same  character.  These  districts  are  all  on  the  north  side  of  Willow  creek,  and 
are  comprised  in  a  space  of  about  12  miles  in  length  and  but  little  over  one  in  width. 

Water  is  very  scarce  in  all  the  mines  in  this  vicinity.  During  the  spring  the  melting 
scow  furnishes  a  good  many  gulches  with  water  for  two  or  three  months.  After  that  is 
gone,  all  the  natural  water  in  Shasta  district  would  not  amount  to  more  than  one  sluice  head 
in  Easton  district,  including  the  water  in  Mormon  basin  creek,  about  two,  in  Willow  Creek 
district  about  one.  And  in  speaking  of  creeks  in  those  districts  the  reader  must  bear  in 
mind  that  all  the  gulches  in  which  water  flows  during  summer  (no  matter  how  small  the 
quantity)  is  called  a  creek.  Most  of  the  gulches  are  dry  during  tlie  fall  and  winter,  and  a 
prospector  frequently  has  to  carry  dirt  one-half  mile  or  more  to  find  water  to  wash  it. 
Another  great  inconvenience  here  is  thi?  scarcity  of  timber,  it  being  on  the  mountains  and 
in  canons  remote  from  the  mines.  Lumber  for  mining  and  building  purpo.ses  has  to  be 
hauled  from  8  to  16  miles,  and  fire- wood  from  two  to  five  miles,  the  former  costing  about  $70 
per  1,000  feet,  and  the  latter  from  §12  to  .$14  per  cord. 

The  climate  here  is  similar  to  that  of  the  Grande  Ronde  and  Powder  River  valleys,  the 
amount  of  snow  falling  being  much  less  than  in  the  mining  regions  of  Idaho.  Yet  the 
winters  are  very  cold.  The  past  two  weeks  have  been  about  as  cold  as  any  weather  I  ever 
saw  during  several  years'  residence  in  the  mountains.  The  snow  is  now  about  10  inches 
deep  in  the  mines,  and  perhaps  two  feet  deepen  the  divide  between  Willow  creek  and  Burnt 
river. 

There  is  much  good  agricultural  land  along  Willow  creek,  Burnt  river,  and  other  streams 
in  this  vicinity,  upon  which  abundant  supplies  could  be  raised  for  all  this  part  of  Oregon, 
unless  the  crickets,  which  seem  to  be  one  of  the  natural  productions  of  the  country,  should 
claim  too  large  a  percentage  of  the  crop. 

Several  different  ditches  have  been  talked  of  for  bringing  water  from  Willow  creek  and 
Btumt  river  for  mining  purposes,  which  would  supply  Shasta  district  and  subsequently  dis- 
tricts east  of  that,  only  one  of  which  has  been  prosecuted  to  any  extent ;  that  being  the 
ditch  of  Carter,  Packwood  &  Company,  which  Is  one  of  large  extent,  and  will,  when  com- 
pleted, supply  a  large  extent  of  mining  ground  with  water  and  give  employment  to  many 
men.  But  unfortunately  there  is  little  probability  of  its  completion  in  time  to  do  any  good 
next  summer  :  so  that  many  owning  claims  will  have  to  wait  another  year  before  they  can 
work  them  to  any  extent,  as  the  mines  are  of  such  a  nature  that  they  can  only  be  worked 
by  the  hydraulic  or  ground  sluice,  which  requires  a  large  amount  of  water. 

There  is  a  large  extent  of  unprospected  country  in  this  part  of  Oregon,  in  much  of  which 

it  is  probable  gold  may  be  found.     Were  the  facilities  better  for  working  the  mines,  this 

would  soon  be  a  populous  portion  of  the  State,  but  much  of  the  country  is  destitute  of  timber 

and  water. 

Thpre  is  but  little  to  induce  men  to  come  here  at  present,  but  if  any  do  come  from  Oregon 


592  EESOURCfiS    OF    STATES    AND    TEKRITOEIES 

and  California,  they  had  best  not  come  before  the  first  of  May,  as  before  that  time  the  weather 
will  be  stormy  and  unsettled,  and  they  will  find  it  rough  camping  out  in  a  country  where 
even  sage  brush  for  fuel  is  not  very  plenty. 

There  are  a  few  stores  in  the  country,  at  Clark's  creek,  Mormon  Basin,  and  other  camps, 
but  they  arc  poorly  furnished  with  mining  tools,  clothing,  groceries,  and  in  fact  everything 
but  whiskey,  and  other  beverages  of  like  nature,  which  are  supposed  to  be  necessary  in  a 
country  where  water  is  not  very  plenty.  Our  nearest  post  office  is  at  Express,  nearly  20 
miles.  We  get  our  mail  matter  from  there  or  from  Auburn,  which  is  upwards  of  35  miles 
distant.  A  mail  route  which  would  accommodate  Clark's  Creek,  Mormon  Basin,  and  the 
Willow  mines  is  very  necessary,  and  should  receive  the  attention  of  our  postal  authorities. 

QuAKTZ  Lodes. — Numerous  gold-bearing  quartz  lodes  have  been  discovered 
in  various  parts  of  the  State,  but  none  of  them  have  been  developed  to  any- 
great  extent.  East  of  Eugene  Cit}-,  near  the  McKenzie  river,  (north  branch 
of  the  Willamette,)  some  excellent  lodes  have  been  prospected,  one  of  which 
extends  north  to  Santiam  and  south  across  the  head  branches  of  the  middle  fork 
of  the  Willamette,  Coast  Fork,  North  and  South  Umpqua,  &c.  The  Blue 
mountains,  iu  the  vicinity  of  Cafion  City,  John  Day's  river,  abound  in  quartz 
which  tlic  miners  think  will  pay,  but  as  there  are  placer  mines  in  the  vicinity^, 
and  a  lack  of  capital  to  erect  the  necessary  mills,  they  have  not  yet  been  worked 
to  an}'  considerable  extent.     A  writer  in  one  of  the  Oregon  papers  says': 

The  discoveries  made  in  Auburn  district,  near  the  western  line  of  Baker  county,  are 
known  to  be  rich,  but,  as  is  usual,  the  discoverers  are  poor  and  unable  to  purchase  and  erect 
suitable  mills  for  reducing  their  rock,  and,  therefore,  must  be  content  with  simply  working 
out  the  assessments  required  by  law  to  hold  them.  In  fact,  in  no  less  than  five  districts  in  the 
county,  cjuartz  is  known  to  exist  in  paying  quantities,  but  will  not  be  worked,  perhaps,  for 
years  to  come — until  labor  is  cheaper  and  the  cost  of  machinery  is  correspondingly  cheaper, 
and  the  placer  mines  are  more  thoroughly  worked.  The  fact  is  that  wherever  placer  mines 
will  daily  exhibit  to  the  laborer  the  fruits  of  his  toil,  at  but  little  outlay,  he  is  hard  to  be 
persuaded  to  invest  time  and  labor  and  capital  in  the  business  of  quartz  crushing. 

Outside  of  our  county,  too,  there  are  kucnvn  to  be  rich  quartz  mines,  occupying  about  the 
same  practical  position  that  ours  does.  The  quartz  of  Elk  creek,  Granite  creek,  and  Canon 
Cit3%  iu  Grant  corinty,  together  with  tnose  of  Eagle  creek,  in  Union  county,  arc  destined  to 
attract  attention  before  long. 

The  Ieox  Ikteeest. — By  far  the  most  important  mineral  resource  yet  dis- 
covered in  Oregon  is  the  vast  deposit  of  iron  known  to  exist  between  the  Willa- 
mette river  above  Portland  and  the  Columbia,  at  St.  Helen.  Of  the  entire 
extent  of  this  valuable  deposit  there  is  as  yet  but  little  knowledge,  but  it  has 
been  traced  for  a  distance  of  at  least  25  miles,  and  is  beyond  doubt  inexhaustible. 
A  description  of  the  geological  formation  in  which  this  iron  is  found,  with  some 
observations  on  the  character  of  the  ore,  cost  of  manufactitre,  &c.,  and  of  iron 
ores  generall}'  on  the  Pacific  coast,  will  be  found  in  the  article  on  miscellaneous 
mineral  resources.*  The  following "  detaik'd  description  of  the  iron  works  at 
Oswego  is  from  the  Oregonian,  a  newspaper  published  at  l*ortland : 

It  is  cause  for  sincere  rejoicing  that  the  efforts  of  the  enterprising  company  which  has  under- 
taken the  development  of  this  most  important  resource  of  our  State  are  nov.'  almost  sure  to 
be  rewarded  with  couiplete  success.  It  would  be  difticnlt  to  name  an  interest  on  this  coast 
which  uiny  aflect  the  general  prosperity  more  directly  and  permanently  than  the  successful 
working  of  our  iron  mines.  It  is  not  so  much  that  the  proprietors  may  make  money  out  of 
them,  but  it  is  that  some  of  the  chief  courses  of  trade  and  manufactures  will  be  turned  in 
entirely  new  channels.  These  works,  if  present  prospects  are  hereafter  realized,  will  be  able 
to  supply  the  greater  part  of  the  demand  of  tlu;  whole  coast  for  raw  iron.  This  alone  is  a 
vast  interest;  but  when  we  take  into  consideration  that  iron-rolling  mills  and  manufacturing 
establishments  of  various  kinds  will  surel}'  fulioM'  the  success  of  this  pioneer  effort,  the  interest 
which  the  whole  conmtry  lias  in  it  is  immense — entirely  beyond  the  possibility  of  present 
conception.  In  view  of  this,  we  shall  certainly  not  be  censured  if  we  devote  to  the  various 
matters  connected  with  thcs<^  works  the  greater  part  of  our  column  to-day. 

Onc.'VNiz.vnoN'  op  tiik  Comi'.any.— The  "Oregon  Iron  Company"  was  incorporated  by 
signing  and  filing  articles  in  the  offices  of  the  county  clerk  of  this  county,  and  of  the  secre- 
tary of  State,  on  the  24ih  day  of  February,  18G5.  The  incorporators  were  H.  D.  Green,  W. 
S.  Ladd,  and  John  Green.  The  capital  stock  was  fixed  at  $500,000.  The  stock  was  soon 
taken,  the  number  of  stockholders  being  20,  including  many  of  our  most   sagacious  and 

*  Notes  on  the  coal  aud  other  miscellaneous  mineral  productions  of  Oregon  will  be  found', 
in  the  same  article. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  593 

enerrjetic  business  men.  On  the  ]3th  of  May  followintr,  the  stockholclers  held  their  first 
nieetiiifr,  and  organized  under  the  provisions  of  the  statute  by  eleetinfj  a  board  of  directors, 
consisting  of  \V.  S.  Ladd,  H.  C.  Leonard,  John  Green,  T.A.Davis,  P.  C.  Schuyler,  II.  D. 
Green,  and  Henry  Failing.  At  a  subsequent  meeting  of  the  directors,  W.  S.  Ladd  was 
cliosen  president ;  II.  C.  Leonard,  vice-president,  and  H.  D.  Green,  secretary.  Mr.  P.  C. 
Schuyler  is  at  present  acting  secretary. 

Cost  of  thk  Works. — Thus  far  the  sum  of  all  the  assessments  levied  on  the  stock  is 
only  '27  per  cent.,  all  of  which  has  been  paid  in  with  the  exception  of  $11,000,  delinquent 
by  three  of  the  stockholders.  The  expenditures  for  building,  opening  tin;  mines,  construct- 
ing machinery,  and  stocking  with  material,  was,  up  to  the  1st  of  August,  between  iijl'24,000 
and  5!l'2.'),00O.  Since  that  date  there  have  been,  of  course,  some  further  expenditures,  which 
can,  at  present,  only  be  estimated;  but  the  total  amount  is  probably  within  ,|l'<!(),()l)0. 

MA(i.NiTtJDK  OF  THK  WoRKS. — The  company  having  prospected  the  mine,  which  is  about 
two  and  half  miles  from  the  present  village  of  Oswego,  and  having  had  the  ore  thoroughly 
tested,  began  excavating  for  the  walls  of  the  furnace  and  tower,  on  the  21st  of  May,  18(15.  Since 
then  the  work  of  building  and  opening  the  mine  has  been  carried  on  without  more  than  tempo- 
rary suspensions  till  the  present  day.  The  works  are  run  by  water,  taken  from  Oswego  lake. 
The  dam  across  the  creek,  just  below  the  foot  of -the  lake,  is  14M  feet  in  length,  and  22  feet  in 
height,  and  is  a  structure  of  great  strength.  The  flume  by  which  water  is  conveyed  to  the 
works  is  900  feet  long  and  3  feet  square.  The  machinery  in  the  blast-house  is  driven  by 
one  of  Letfel's  double-turbine  water-wheels,  which  also  works  a  force  pump  fur  supplying 
the  tanks  with  water.  The  blast-house  (where  the  wind  is  made)  is  i*8  feet  square  and 
20  feet  high.  The  casting-house  is  lot!  feet  long,  58  feet  wide,  and  is  a  12-feet  story.  The 
stack  frame  is  154  feet  square,  and  32  feet  high.  The  top-house  is  34  feet  square,  and  20  feet 
high.  The  stack  and  chin)ney  together  are  (55  feet  in  height.  The  bridge-house  is  a  12-feet 
story,  129  feet  long,  and  25  feet  wide ;  one  end  resting"  on  the  ground  on  the  hili-side,  the 
other  supported  on  heavy  truss-work,  and  connecting  with  the  stack.  The  first  coal-house 
connecting  with  the  bridge-house  is  a  12-feet  story,  148  feet  long,  and  38  feet  wide.  The 
second  coal-house,  standing  a  little  apart  from  the  other,  is  a  24-feet  story,  100  feel  long,  and 
40  feet  wide.  The  water  tank  is  12  feet  square,  and  8  feet  deep.  These  are  the  buildings 
which  constitute  the  works  proper;  but  the  company  has  one  or  two  other  buildings  in  the 
village,  one  of  which  is  a  storehouse,  50  by  37  feet,  and  a  story  and  a  half  high.  'I'he  stack 
within,  which  is  the  furnace,  is  a  massive  pile  of  masonry,  32  feet  square  at  the  base,  and  34 
feet  high.  There  is  probably  not  a  finer  or  stronger  piece  of  masonry  on  this  coast  thaa  this 
stack.  The  capacity  of  the  furnace  is  about  800  bushels.  The  buildings  are  supplied  or  to 
be  supplied  everywhere  with  water-pipes,  to  be  used  both  in  the  ordinary  daily  operations 
and  in  case  of  fire.  Everything  about  the  entire  works  is  constructed  for  strength  and  dura- 
tion. In  this  respect  the  companj'  has  wisely  thought  that  the  additional  cost  of  heavy, 
strong,  and  finished  work,  above  that  of  mere  make-shilt,  cannot  fail  to  be  returned  in  the 
duration  of  the  works.  The  machinery  in  the  blast-house  is  massive,  and  finely  finished. 
The  blast  of  air  is  obtained  by  the  use  of  two  large  air  pumps,  whose  pistons  attach  to  the 
ends  of  a  huge  walking-beam.  The  air  is  forced  through  a  regulator,  which  serves  to  keep 
the  current  constant.  In  the  regulator,  as  the  machinery  was  driven  yesterday,  the  pressure 
of  air  was  five-eighths  of  a  pound  to  the  square  inch.  From  the  regulator  the  air  is  forced 
through  a  long  pip<!  to  the  top  of  the  stack,  when  it  goes  through  several  lar^e  cast  tubes,  so 
placed  as  to  be  all  the  time  red-hot.  This  is  for  the  piupose  of  heating  the  air  before  it  strikes 
the  fire  and  mass  of  ore  at  the  bottom  of  the  furnace.  From  these  heating  tubes  the  air  then 
goes  through  large  tubes,  concealed  in  the  masonry,  to  the  bottom  of  the  furnace,  where  it  is  dis- 
charged with  great  force  into  the  interior  of  the  furnace.  The  efl'ect  upon  the  burning  mass 
of  coal,  ore,  and  lime  is  something  too  fierce  for  description.  To  prevent  the  end  of  the  air- 
pipe  from  being  consumed  by  the  intense  heat,  it  is  inserted  in  a  massive  piece  of  casting, 
called  a  titicr,  and  which  is  subjected  to  a  constant  stream  of  cold  water. 

Making  Iron. — The  first  casting  of  iron  into  pigs  was  made  on  Saturday,  August  24.  The 
manner  of  doing  it  is  something  as  follows :  Of  course  the  furnace  has  had  fire  in  it  for  some  time, 
and  was  hot  when  the  work  began.  The  workmen  first  put  in  at  the  top  20  bushels  of  coal,  then 
800  pounds  of  ore,  adding  to  this  mass  about  20  per  ci;nt.  of  limestone.  This  proportion  is 
observed  till  the  furnace  is  full.  The  limestone  and  ore  nn-.  broken  under  the  hammer,  before 
being  put  in  the  furnace.  The  use  of  the  lime  is  to  amalgamate  with  itself  all  the  dross  and 
impurities  of  the  ore,  released  in  the  process  of  smelting.  This  dross  is  constantly  drawn  off 
from  the  furnace  at  the  health,  and  when  cooled  is  thrown  away.  The  company  propose  to 
use  it  for  grading  their  roads  and  grounds.  When  the  reservoir  at  the  bottom  gets  full,  the 
hearth  is  tapped,  the  molten  iron  runs  off  in  a  sparkling  white  stream,  down  a  channel  to 
the  pit,  where  it  falls,  first,  into  a  gutter  called  the  sow,  and  from  this  into  snuiller  and  shorter 
gutters,  where  the  iron  is  shai)ed  into  pigs.  Yesterday  the  hearth  was  tajjped  twice,  the 
result  being  about  six  tons  of  pig  iron.  It  is  expected  that  when  the  furnace  gets  formed 
and  thoroughly  heated,  the  company  will  be  able  to  cast  three  times  at  least  in  24  hours, 
making  between  three  and  four  tons  at  each  casting.  The  ore  now  used  yields  about  55  per 
cent,  of  iron,  which  would  be  considered  anywhere  in  the  world  very  rich.  The  coal  costs 
about  six  cents  per  bushel.  Lime  costs  §(>  per  ton.  The  ore  is  estimated  to  cost  about  jjil  75 
per  ton.    The  company  is  now  employing  80  men  as  miners,  coal  burners  and  heavers, 

38 


594 


EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 


teamsters  and  artisans,  at  the  works.  The  coal-houses  now  have  in  them  about  80,000 
bushels  of  coal,  and  it  is  coming  in  at  the  rate  of  about  2,500  bushels  per  day.  The  iron  thus 
far  cast  is  pronounced  by  Mr.  Harris,  the  superimendent  of  tbewciks,and  by  other  com- 
petent judges,  to  be  equal  in  quality  to  any  made  in  the  United  States.  It  is  very  soft  and  very 
line  in  grain,  and  it  is  said,  might  be  worked  into  castings  for  machinery  as  run  off  from  the 
lurnace. 

To  conclude  this  article  we  will  mention  that  of  the  first  casting,  Mr.  J.  C.  Trullinger,  the 
proprietor  of  the  town  site,  has  secured  two  pigs,  which  he  will  have  engraved  with  his  own 
initials,  the  date  of  casting  and  the  trade  stamp  of  the  company,  and  then  planted  as  street 
monuments  at  the  corners  of  blocks  Nos.  1  and  2,  at  the  junctions  of  Furnace,  Ladd  and 
Durham  streets. 


Table  of  distances. 

FROM  PORTLAND  TO  DALLES  CITV. 


Vancouver  (by  steamer) 18 

Lower  Cascades 45  G3 

Upper  Cascades  (by  railroad) 6  G9 

Dalles  City  (by  steamer) 45  114 

FROM  DALLES  CITY  TO  LEWISTON. 


Celilo  (by  railroad) ^.. .. 

Columbus  (by  steamer) 

John  Day's  river 

Indian  Rapids 

Squally  Hook 

Rock  Creek 

Chapman's  wood-yard 

Big  Bend 

Willow  Creek 

Castle  Rock 

Canoe  Eucanipraent '. 

Foot  of  Long  Island 

Head  of  Long  Island 

Grande  Rondc  Landing 

Umatilla  City 

Head  of  Umatilla  Rapids 

Wind  Mill  Rock 

Wallula 

Mouth  of  Snake  river 

First  Rapids,  Snake  river 

Fish  Hook  Rapid 

Lower  End  of  Canon 

Upper  End  of  Canon 

Jim  Fort  Island 

Pine  Tree  Rapids 

Palouse  Crossing 

Fort  Taylor,  at  Tukannon 

Taksas  Rapids 

Pa-na-wa  Cieek  audlndian  Farm. 

Almota 

Indian  Wood  Yard 

El-pa-vva  Creek 

Jackson  &,  Buckley  Ferry 

Lewiston 


FROM  DALLES  CITY  TO  UMATILLA  CITY. 

Celilo  (by  railroad) 15 

Des  Chutes  (by  laud) 1  16 

Spanish  Hollow 9  25 

John  Day's 15  40 

Willow  Creek 23  63 

WellSpring .■...   14  77 

Ewing's 18  95 

Umatilla  City 16  111 

FROM  UMATILLA  TO  IDAHO  CITY. 

Franklin  House 12 

Swift's '...  26  38 

Willow  Springs 12  50 


15 

6 

21 

10 

31 

3 

34 

3 

37 

4 

41 

8 

49 

6 

55 

9 

64 

8 

72 

2 

74 

4 

78 

7 

85 

5 

90 

7 

97 

6 

103 

3 

106 

15 

121 

11 

132 

6 

138 

10 

148 

2 

150 

2 

152 

6 

158 

7 

165 

30 

195 

5 

200 

6 

206 

25 

231 

14 

245 

21 

266 

5 

271 

3 

274 

7 

281 

Meacham's  or  Lee's  Encampment 

Station 

La  Grande 

Union - 

Pyles 

Kentucky  House 

Stark's 

Austin 

Mountain  View  House 

Carter's 

Valley  House 

Ward's,  or  Slough  House 

Heukler's  Ranch 

Baldock's 

Mad  Springs 

Illinois  Ranch 

Straw  Ranch,  or  H.  Huffman's.. 

New  York  House 

Califoruia  Ranch 

Express  Ranch 

Central 

Wilson's 

Hawkins 

Scott's 

Whiteside's 

Miller's 

Marshall's 

Old's  Ferry,  or  Snake  River 

Snake  River  Bend 

Monroe  Rouse,  or  Weizer's 

Jasper  jfc  Beard's  Station  — 

Snake  River  Slough 

Forty-Nine  Ranch 

Fayette  River  and  Bluff  Station.. 

Junction  House 

Thompson's 

Payette  Ranch 

Block  House 

Payette  Junction 

Bernal's 

Horse  Shoe  Bend 

Shafer's 

Herzog  »fe  Company 

Allen's 

Placerville 

Centreville 

Idaho  City 


Miles. 
14      64 
13      77 
12      85 
16    101 

5  106 
n  1071 
5'  H2i 
4     116* 
2    118| 

6  124+ 

1  125| 
3i  129 
3.i  132| 

6   ns^ 

6    144| 
5i  150 
4     154 

4  158 
3*  16U 

I  162' 

2  164 

5  169 
173 
178 
184 
185 
190 
191 
199 


8  207 

4  211 

2  213 

10  223 
4  227 

3  230 

4  234 
8  242 

5  247 
2  249 

1 1  260 
8  268 
4  272 

4  276 
10  286 

2  288 

5  293 
8  301 


FROM  UMATILLA  CITY  TO  INDEPENDENCE 

Franklin  House 12 

Alkali  Hollow 12 

Forks  of  Birch  Creek 10 

Beard's  Saw  Mill ^^ 

Dealy  Ranch 18 

Horse  Ranch 12 

Day's  Flat  on  Granite  Creek 22 

Independence 6 


24 
34 
46 
64 
76 
98 
104 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


695 


Table  of  distances — Gontinued. 


FROM  INDEPENDENCE  TO  CANON  CITY  (BY 
TRAIL.) 

Miles. 

Little  Salmon 20 

Vincout's  Gulch 18      38 

CauonCity 22      GO 

FKO.M  IXDErENDEXCE  TO  AUBURN. 

Head  of  Powder  River 20 

BeiuGulch 5      25 

Auburn 15      40 

FROM  WALLA-WALLA  TO  IDAHO  CITY. 

Walla- Walla  River 13 

Liukton'sMill 9  22 

Mountain  House 12-  34 

Phillips' 13  47 

Willow  Creek 11  58 

Hendershott's 16  74 

Union 6  80 

Idaho  City 200  280 

FROM  IDAHO  CITY  TO  BOISE  CITY. 

Warm  Springs 2 

Mini. ehaba  Ranch 10  12 

Fourteen-mile  House , 2  14 

Sampson's,  or  Twelve-mile  House.  8  22 

Boise  City 12  34 

FROM  UMATILLA  CITY  TO  BOISE  CITY. 

Payette  Junction 249 

BoiseCity t 30    279 

FROM  WALLA-WALLA  TO  BOISE  CITY. 

(As  measured  with  a  roadometer)  265 

FROM    IDAHO    CITY  TO  ROCKY    BAR   (BY 
TRAIL.) 

Meadow  Creek  Ranch 14 

N<irtli  Boise  Biidfre  and  Toll  House    4  18 

Middle  Boise  Ranch 6  24 

Brady's  Ranch II  35 

Rocky  Bar 13  48 

FROM  BOISE  CITY  TO  RUBY  AND  SILVER 
CITIES. 

Seventeen-mile  Station 17 

Slouffh 15  32 

Snakt;  River 1  3;j 

Carson's  Ranch 15  48 

Honey  Lake  Smith's 6  54 

Boonville 8  62 

Ruby  City 2  64 

SilverCity f  64J 

FROM  BOISE  CITY  TO  VOLCANO. 

Boise  River 7 

Fifteen-mile  House 8       15 

Squaw  Creek 15      30 


Syrup  Creek .  .• 11 

Little  Camas  Prairie 16 

Franklin 3 

Volcano 10 


Miles. 
41 
57 
60 
70 


FROM  BOISE  CITY  TO  ROCKY  BAR. 

Little  Camas  Prairie 57 

Wood  Creek 8  65 

Lime  Creek 2  67 

Warm  Springes jq  77 

Cowhide  Ranch 5  82 

Toll  Gate U  83^ 

MilkRanch 4  85| 

Rocky  Bar 14  99^ 

FROM  BOISE  CITY  TO  RED  BLUFF,  VIA  BOON- 
VILLE, GIBB'S  CREEK,  AND  SUSANVILLE, 
IN  HONEY  LAKE. 

Seventeen-mile  Station 17 

Slough 15  32 

Snake  River 1  33 

Carson's  Ranch 15  48 

Honey  Lake  Smith's 6  54 

Boonville , 8  62 

Jordan's  Ranch 18  80 

Muskrat  Lakes 16  96 

Child's  Ferry 17  113 

Gibb's  Creek,  or  forks  of  road 8  121 

Head  of  Gibb's  Creek 14  135 

Mountain  Creek 16  151 

Tn.utCreek 17  168 

Puebla  Mountain 10  177 

Hot  Springs 6  184 

Alder  Creek 8  192 

Summit  Lake 12  104 

Three  Lakes 12  216 

Canon  Creek 9  225 

Surprise  Valley 13  238 

FurCreek 14  252 

Swift  Creek 15  267 

Rapid  Creek 4  271 

Susanville,  in  Honey  Lake 6  277 

Red  Bluff 99  376 

Susanville  to  Chico 95  372 

BOISE  CITY  TO  STARR  CITY,  VIA  BOONVILLE. 

Seventeen-mile  Station 17 

Slough 15  32 

Snake  River 1  33 

Carson's  Ranch 15  48 

Honey  Lake  Suiith's 6  54 

Boonville 8  62 

Jordan's  Ranch 18  80 

Muskrat  Lakes 16  96 

Child'.s  Ferry 17  113 

Gibb's  Creek 8  121 

WellSpriiig 12  133 

Mouth  of  Canon 10  143 

Summit  Spring 20  163 

East  Fork  of  Queen's  River 8  171 

Paradise  Valley 60  231 

Cherokee 12  243 

StarrCity 26  269 


596 


RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 


Table  of  distances — Continued. 


FROM  WALLA-WALLA  TO  FISHERVILLE, 
KOOl'ANIE  COUNTRY,  BRITISH  COLUM- 
BIA. 

Miles. 

Touchet 15 

Spring 11  26 

Palouse,  on  Snake  river 20  46 

Forks  of  the  Palouse 15  61 

Cow  Creek 12  73 

Camp 12  85 

Cottonwood  Springs 8  93 

Dragoon  Encampment 18  111 

Pine  Timber 8  1J9 

Rock  Creek 12  131 

Lake  to  the  right  of  road 13  144 

Hangman  Creek 10  154 

Antoine  Plant  Ferry,  or  Crossing  of 

Spokane  River 12  166 

Dutchman's 17  183 

Slough 18  -201 

Pen  d'Oreille  Lake 9  210 

Head  of  Pen  d'Oreille  Lake 30  240 

PackRiver 9  249 

Stampede  Lake,  to  the  left  of  the 

road 18  267 

Kootanie  Ferry ^ 18  285 

Spring 10  295 

Eighteen  Mile  Creek 8  303 

Commission  Creek,  one  mile  to  left 

ofroad 9  .312 

Round  Prairie 10  322 

Boundary  line 7  329 

Moya  River 7  336 

Third  Crossing  of  Moya  River 10  346 

Log  House .12  358 

Miner's  Creek 18  376 

Peavine  Prairie 12  388 

St.  Joseph's  Prairie 12  400 

Central  Ferry 10  410 

Fisherville 7  417 

FROM  NEW  FERRY  TO  ROCK  CREEK. 

Springs 15 

Kentuck's,  on  the  first  Mullan's  road    9  24 

Six-ruile  Camp 6      30 

Springs 9      39 

Creek 10      49 

Timber  Camp 9      58 

Rock  Creek 12      70 

FROM  WALLA-WALLA  TO  ROCK  CREEK. 

By  trail,  via  New  Ferry 121 

Tukannon  to  Rock  Creek 72 

FROM  JOHN  DAY'S  TO  POWDER  RIVER  AND 
LA  GRANDE. 

Scott's 9 

Harrison's  on  Willow  creek 14      23 

Forks  of  Willow  creek 6      29 

Forks  of  Butter  creek 16      45 

Ayers 7      .'J2 

Birch  creek 20      72- 

McWillis 17      89 


Burk's 16 

Dealy's  Ranch 12 

Grande  Ronde  river,  or  forks  of  road    4 

Powder  river 20 

Grande  Rond  river  (road  to  left)  to 
La  Grande 20 


Miles. 
105 
117 
121 
141 


161 


FROM  DALLES  CITY  TO  CANON  CITY,  VLA 
NIXON'S  BRIDGE. 

Nixon's  bridge 16 

Hay  Stack 27  43 

Cross  Hollows,  or  forks  of  road..  25  68 

ColdCamp 11  79 

CurrentCreek 10  89 

Muddy  Creek 4  93 

CherryCreek 6      99 

Bridge  Creek 9  108 

AlkaliFlat 10  118 

Foot  of  the  mountain 9  127 

Mountain  House 6  133 

Camp  Watson  (military  post) 6i  139|^ 

Rock  Creek 6^  146 

Cottonwood 15  161 

SouthFork 6  167 

Hagen's  Ranch 15  182 

Veatch's  Ranch 8  190 

Canon  City.. 10  200 

FROM  DALLES   CITY  TO   CANON   CITY,    VIA 
GILLAM'S. 


Gillam's 12 

Mcltee 17 

Bake  Oven 19 

Cross  Hollows,  or  forks'of  road..  10 

ColdCamp 11 

Current  Creek. 10 

Muddy  Creek 4 

Cherry  Creek 6 

Bridge  Creek 9 

Alkali  Flat 10 

Caiion  City 82 

FROM  WALLA- WALLA  TO  LEWISTON 

Tusha  Crossing 20 

Tukannon 22 

Pataha 12 

Alpowa 12 

Lewiston 17 


29 

48 
58 
69 
79 
83 
89 
98 
108 
190 


42 

54 
66 

83 


FROM  LEWISTON  TO  FLK  CITY,  FLORENCE, 
AND  IDAHO  CITY.  _ 

Lewiston  to  Elk  City 142 

Lewiston  to  Florence 120 

Lewiston  to  Idaho  City 190 

From  White  Bluff  to  Colville 150 

From  Wallula  via  Union  to  Idaho  City, 
about 300 

From  Dalles  City  to  Frauklin  House  on 
the  Idaho  and  Umatilla  road 102 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  597 


ALASKA. 

Xcnvly  Jill  tlio  information  wo  possess  toncliing  the  mineral  resources  of  Alaska 
is  comprised  in  the  corresjtondence  accompanying  tlie  President's  message,  Feb- 
ruary 17,  1868,  (Ex.  Doc.  No.  177,  40tli  Congress,  2d  session,)  and  in  the  speech 
of  the  lion.  Charles  Sumner  on  the  cession  of  Russian  America  to  the  United 
States  (puldished  in  the  same  document,  pp.  124—189.)  These  valualde  and  inter- 
estini;-  ])apers  contain  th'.>  researches  of  the  most  reliable  authoritii's,  and  demon- 
strate beyond  question  that  the  newly-acquired  territory  abounds  in  t lie  pn^cious 
metals  and  useful  minerals,  though  it  nuist  be  admitted  that  oiu'  knowledge  of 
the  country  and  its  resources  is,  as  yet,  chiefly  confined  to  the  sea-coast  and  the 
shores  of  the  Aleutian  islands.  Of  the  vast  continental  interior  we  know  compar- 
atively nothing;  in  the  language  of  Mr.  Sumner,  '^  perhaps  no  region  of  Cipial 
extent  on  the  globe,  unless  we  except  the  interior  of  Africa,  or  possibly  Green- 
land, is  as  little  known.  Here,"  says  Mr.  Sumner,  "  I  do  not  speak  for  myself 
alone  ;  a  learned  Gennan,  whom  I  have  already  quoted,  after  saying  that  explo- 
rations have  been  limited  to  the  coast,  testifies  that  '  the  interior,  not  onl}-  of  the 
continent,  but  even  of  the  island  of  Sitka,  is  to-day  unexplored,  and  is  in  every 
respect  terra  incognita  ;'  the  same  has  been  repeated  of  the  islands  also."  With- 
out data  beyond  what  has  already  become  familiar  to  the  public,  it  would  be  use- 
less, therefore,  to  encumber  this  report  with  any  speculations  or  conjectures 
respecting  the  mineral  resources  of  a  comparatively  unexplored  region.  It  is 
sufficient  to  say  that  Alaska  is  known  to  abound  in  gold,  silver,  copper,  iron, 
and  coal,  and  that  it  possesses  many  other  valuable  resom'ces,  chief  among  which 
are  its  fisheries  and  forests. 

In  this  enlightened  age  it  seems  singular  that  an  acquisition  of  such  inesti- 
mable importance,  in  its  political  and  commercial  aspect,  to  the  future  of  our 
country — especially  to  that  portion  of  it  lying  on  the  Pacific  slope — should  meet 
with  opposition  on  the  part  of  any  intelligent  American.  If  the  Territory  of 
Alaska  possessed  no  other  element  of  value  than  its  vast  forests  of  pine,  spruce, 
fir,  hemlock,  and  other  trees  useful  for  lumber  and  shi})-building,  it  would  be 
worth  more  than  ten  times  the  sum  stipulated  to  be  paid  for  it  under  the  treaty. 
A  moment's  consideration  will  show  how  important  a  question  the  supply  of 
timber  must  become  to  the  States  and  Territories  of  the  Pacific  within  a  compar- 
atively short  time.  The  States  of  California,  Nevada,  and  Oregon,  and  the 
Temtories  of  Arizona,  Utah,  ]\Iontana,  Idaho,  and  AVashington,  have  a  united 
area  of  903,019  square  miles,  with  an  estimated  ])o])nlation  of  780,000,  or  less 
than  one  inhabitant  to  the  square  mile.  The  area  of  timberecl  land  witliin  this 
vast  range  of  coimtry  is  almost  confined  to  a  narnjw  strip  along  the  coast  north 
of  San  Francisco,  and  to  a  belt  extending  along  the  crests  and  slopes  of  the 
Sierra  N(*vada  and  Cascades,  varying  in  width,  and  at  scattered  intervals,  from 
15  to  40  or  50  miles.  Ileference  to  the  nuips  will  show  that  this  timbered  area 
is  less  than  a  twentieth  jiart  of  the  entire  surface  of  th(!  comitry,  and  is  diminish- 
ing perceptibly  year  after  year.  The  consurnption  of  lumber  in  Calilbrnia  and 
Nevada,  to  say  nothing  of  the  expoits,  is  without  parallel  in  the  history  of  new 
countries.  Immense  quantities  of  lumber,  timber,  and  firewood  are  used  in  the 
building  and  supply  of  towns;  in  mills,  mines,  flumes,  and  fences,  and  for  all  the 
requirements  of  a  miscellaTieous  and  progressive  ])opulation.  It  is  not  to  be 
supposed  that,  with  increased  facilities  for  immigration,  the  vast  tracts  of  mineral 
and  agricultural  land,  now  sustaining  less  than  one  inhabitant  to  the  siiuare  mile, 
will  long  remain  so  sparsely  settled.  Within  the  next  10  years  the  pojjulation 
of  our  Pacific  States  and  Territories  will,  in  all  probability,  exceed  2,000,000. 
New  towns  will  spring  up  at  frequent  intervals  thnnighout  this  immense  domain. 
Our  scanty  timber  lands,  already  sufl'ering  from  fires  and  from  reckless  waste  on 


598  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES  " 

the  part  of  settlers,  will  be  forced  to  pay  tribute  to  the  increasing  population. 
Estimating'  the  consumption  from  the  rate  at  which  the  forests  of  California  have 
disappeared  since  1849,  it  would  not  take  many  years,  witii  a  largely  enhanced 
population,  to  denude'all  the  available  timber  districts,  increase  the  price  of  lum- 
ber so  as  to  retard  the  development  of  many  lucrative  branches  of  industry,  and 
probably  destroy  the  export  trade  in  that  article,  which  is  now  becoming  so 
important  an  element  in  the  growth  of  oiu"  intercourse  with  China. 

The  completion  of  the  Central  Pacific  railroad  will  inaugurate  a  new  era  for 
the  States  and  Territories  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains.  With  population  new 
sources  of  wealth  will  be  opened,  and  raifroads  will  be  established  north  and 
south,  with  branches  penetrating  the  mountain  passes  and  valleys  in  every  du'ec- 
tion,  to  supply  the  wants  of  many  growing  and  prosperous  communities. 

If  Mr.  Secretary  Seward  had  accomplished  nothing  more  in  the  com'se  of  his 
official  career  than  the  acquisition  of  Alaska,  he  would  for  that  act  alone  be 
entitled  not  only  to  the  thanks  of  every  citizen  of  the  Pacific  coast,  already 
awarded  him,  but  to  the  gratitude  of  millions  y(^t  unborn,  by  whom  the  bound- 
less domain  of  the  Avest  is  destined  to  be  peopled. 

For  the  convenience  of  those  who  may  desire  to  consult  the  principal  aiithori- 
ties  on  the  resources  of  Russian  America,  I  have  caused  to  be  prepared  a  chrono- 
logical summary,  or  bibliography  in  brief,  of  the  publications  on  that  region, 
from  A.  D.  1600  to  1867.  '  The  author.  Dr.  Alexander  S.  Taylor,  of  Santa  Bar- 
bara, California,  is  a  gentleman  of  great  learning  and  research,  whose  labors  for 
the  preservation  of  all  the  known  records  of  discovery  and  adventui-e  on  the 
Pacific  coast  cannot  be  too  highly  commended. 

Bibliography  of  Alaslca. 

1600. — Hakliiyt  RicWd.  Voyages,  discoveries,  navigations,  &c.,  of  the  English  nation. 
In  two  volumes,  small  folios  ;  London,  1599-16U0.  Also  anotlier  volume  by  the  same  author 
of  voyages  not  inchxded  in  the  first  work,  and  not  published  until  Itill,  at  London,  in  one 
volume,  quarto ;  contains  the  earhest  notices  of  the  far  northern  voyages  on  the  Pacific  and 
Atlantic. 

1600. — Original  Documents  on  the  Voyages  and  Services  of  Frida  Andres  de  Urdanetta, 
pilot  .of  Legaspis  Manila  expedition  in  1565,  collected  by  Martin  Fernandez  de  Navarette, 
president  ot  the  Royal  Spanish  Academy  of  History ;  in  one  volume,  8vo,  in  the  set  of  five 
volumes;  Madrid,  about  1816.  It  was  Urdanetta  who  first  discovered  the  currents  and 
winds  above  40°,  with  which  he  sailod  his  ships  from  Manila  till  he  made  the  north  shores 
of  California,  and  thence  down  the  coasts  to  Mexico. 

1625. —  The  Pilgrims  of  Samiul  Purchase,  in  three  volumes,  quarto  ;  London,  ]6'25.  Con- 
tains the  voyage  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  the  Greek  pilot,  in  1592,  for  original  documents  pertain- 
ing to  which,  obtained  from  the  island  of  Cephalonia,  see  the  author's  notes  on  de  Fuca  in 
Hutchings's  California  Magazine  for  185'J,  also  Greenhow's  History. 

1640. — Histoire  du  JS^oveau  Monde,  by  Jean  de  Laet.     Folio  ;  Leyden,  1640. 

1682. —  The  Geograyhy  of  the  World,  by  Jean  Bleu.     Folio;  Amsterdam,  1662. 

1699. — De  Originihus  Ameriranis,  h J  Georga  Home.     Folio;  Antwerp,  1699. 

1712. — Historical  Researches  respecting  the  Neio  Jf'orld,  by  Henric  Scherer,  professor  in  the 
University  of  Ingoldstadt,  Bavaria.     In  German,  about  1712. 

1715. —  Rccueil  du  Voyages  auNord,  in  nine  volumes,  12mo;  Amsterdam,  1715. 

1704-1750. — Voyage  Collections  :  Churchill's  Collection  of  Voyages,  6  vols.,  folio,  1704- 
1712;  Harris's  Collection  of  Voyages.  2  vols.,  folio,  1715-1720;  Hawkesworth's  Collection 
of  Voyages,  5  vols.,  fulio,  17:55-1740  ;  Osborne's  Collection  of  Voyages,  2  vols.,  folio,  1746- 
1750;  account  of  Dc  Pontes  apocryphal  voyage  through  the  Northwest  Passage  in  1640  in 
the  London  Monthly  Miscellany  of  1708 ;  Voyages  of  Fraucisco  Coreal,  1666-1697,  from 
the  Spanish,  in  2  vols.,  12mo,  Paris,  1722. 

1722. — Potheries  Historic  Amerique  Septentrionelle,  in  4  vols.,  12mo;  Paris,  1722. 

1729. — Origin  de  los  Indios  de  el  Nuevo  Mundo  y  Indies  Occidentales,  by  Friar  Gregorio 
Garcia  ;  folio,  Madrid,  1729. 

1753 — Nouvelles  Cartes  de  L'Amiral  Fonte  et  Autres  ?iavigatcurs  Espagnohs,  Anglais, 
Sfc,  dans  le  mer  Septc7itrional,  by  G.  de  Lisle  ;  quarto ;  Paris,  (753. 

1757. — History  of  California,  by  tho  Jesuit  Father  Miguel  Vanegas,  3  vols.,  ]2mo ;  Mad- 
rid, 1757,  and  published  shortly  after  in  French,  English,  and  German.     Contains  notations 


1 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  599 

np  to  1752  on  the  far  northwest  coast  and  connections  with  China,  with  valuable  maps  of  the 
north  coasts,  «&c. 

17r>7.  —  Researches  on  the  Voyages  of  the  Chinese  and  Japanese  to  the  •American  Coasts,  hy 
M.  Do  Guifjnes  ;   vido  Journal  Academy  of  Inscriptions  and  Belles  Lettres ;  Paris,  1757. 

1757. — Lftrcs  Edijinnles  ct  Curieuses,  S;c.,  Sfc,  of  the  Jesuit  missionaries  in  all  parts  of 
the  world,  from  1600  to  17G0,  published  in  French,  with  translations  in  English,  Spanish, 
German,  Italian,  Arc.,  in  some  iiO  vols.,  12mo.  Some  of  the  volumes  i-ontain  exceedingly 
interesting  accounts  of  the  first  travels  in  the  far  northern  parallels  of  Asia  and  America, 
and  discoveries  of  the  proximities  of  the  old  and  the  new  continents  to  the  north  of  California 
and  of  China.  Jesuit  writers  lay  claim  to  the  first  mention  of  this  connection  to  the  world 
of  letters  and  science,  and  one  of  the  volumes  of  the  Letres  Edifiantas  contains  the  celebrated 
narration  of  Father  Greelon,  who  wjis  transferred  to  China  before  KiGO,  and  travelled  exten- 
sively as  a  missionary  among  the  Manchoo  and  Mongolian  populations  of  that  empire.  In 
one  of  his  journeys  in  Chinese  Tartary  he  fell  in  with  an  Indian  woman  of  the  Huron  tribes, 
whom  he  had  known  when  serving  in  the  far  west  of  Canada,  and  who  confessed  her  sins  to 
him  as  a  priest  of  the  Catholic  church  at  this  immense  distance  from  her  native  country. 
This  woman  informed  Greelon  that  she  had  been  taken  prisoner  in  an  Indian  fight,  and  had 
afterwards  been  transferred  as  a  slave  from  tribe  to  tribe,  until  she  had  crossed  in  boats  over 
a  piece  of  water,  which  was  salt,  and  again  sold  from  one  person  to  another  until  conveyed 
to  the  plains  of  Tartary.  This  fact  is  said  by  some  to  have  first  stimulated  the  attention  of 
the  Russian  authorities,  which  resulted  in  the  discovery  of  Behring  Straits  and  Alaska. 
It  was  the  redoubtable  old  sailor,  Peter  the  Great,  and  after  him  his  wife,  the  Empress 
Catherine,  who  set  afloat  the  great  discovery  voyages  of  Vitus  Behring  and  Alexander 
Tschirikoff  in  1728-'29  and  to  1741,  which  sailed  from  Kamschatka,  and  discovered  the 
straits  which  separated  Asia  from  America,  and  fully  confirmed  the  speculations  of  the  old 
Jesuit  missionaries  of  Canada,  California,  and  China.  (See  the  curious  map  of  the  Pacific 
in  the  Spanish  edition  of  Venega's  California.  See  also  on  this  curious  subject  of  Asiatic 
and  American  ethnographic  connections  the  celebrated  work  "  Mdanges  Asiatiques^^  of  A. 
Kemusat,  and  the  notes  of  Kurz  in  the  Nouvelle  Journal  Asiatique  on  Chinese  history.) 

1774. — Discovries  of  the  Russians  on  the  Northwest  Coasts  of  America,  &c.,  by  Von  Mul- 
ler;  quarto,  London,  1774.     Contains  the  earliest  Russian  voyages  to  Pacific  America. 

1774. — Account  of  the  Northern  Archipelago  to  the  east  of  Kamtschatka ,  8fc.  Sfc.,  by  J. 
Von  Staehlin.     1  vol.,  8vo,  Loudon,  1774. 

1778. — American  Atlas,  or  description  of  the  whole  continent  of  America,  in  grand  folio, 
by  Thos.  Jeffreys  ;  London,  1778. 

1780. — Discoveries  of  the  Russians  in  the  North  Pacific,  by  Rev.  Dr.  Wm.  Cox  ;  quarto, 
London,  1780.  Contains  the  accounts  of  Behring's  voyage  of  1741,  and  other  valuable 
histories. 

1780. — Journal  and  Proceedings  of  the  Imperial  Academy  of  St.  Petersburg,  from  1780  to 
present  time  ;  many  volumes. 

,    1781. — Historical  and  Geographical  Miscellanies,  by  Hon.  Daenis  Barrington,  1  or  2  vols., 
8vo;  LDndon,  178].     Contains  papers  on  extreme  North  Pacific  coasts. 

1788. —  The  Apocryphal  Voyage  of  Francisco  Maldonuda  through  the  Northwest  Passage, 
published  in  Madrid  about  1795  by  the  Royal  Academy  of  History,  from  MSS.  discovered 
in  the  Ambrosian  library  of  Milan.  Also,  Cevallo's  Voyages  of  Maldouada,  De  Fuca,  and 
Fonte,  1  .vol.,  8vo,  Madrid,  1798. 

1789. —  Voyage  of  Captains  Portlock  and  Dixon  to  the  Northwest  Coasts  of  America,  SfC., 
Sfc,  in  the  King  George  and  Queen  Charlotte,  in  1788-'89  ;   quarto,  London,  1789. 

1780. —  Pissertation  Geographico  de  ^ovo  California,  Sfc,  b}'  J.  A.  Ilartman  ;  quarto, 
Marburg,  1789. 

1789. —  Relation  of  a  recent  Spanish  voyage  to  the  northwest  coaats  of  America,  ante  1789, 
by  J.  F.  Bourgoing.     3  vols.,  8vo,  (French)  :id  edition,  Paris,  180:5. 

1790 — Cook's  Voyages.  The  three  voyages  of  Captain  James  Cook  between  1706  and 
1776,  to  the  Pacific  and  northwest  coasts.  The  only  reliable  editions,  which  are  in  several 
volumes,  are  those  published  under  the  directions  of  tli(!  Lords  Coumiissioners  of  the  Admi- 
ralty of  England,  printed  at  Lowdon  at  separate  periods  before  1792. 

1790. —  The  Voyages  of  Captain  Uillings  to  Behring  Straits,  rl am stc hatha,  SfC,  S'C,  1785- 
1790,  in  the  Russian  service,  by  Martin  Sauer;  quarto,  Loudun,  1796. 

1790. —  Voyages  made  in  1788-'89  between  China  and  Northwest  America,  by  Captain  John 
Mearres,  R.  N.;  quarto,  London,  1790,  Captain  Dixon's  reply  to  the  same,  1  vol.,  quarto, 
London,  179U. 

1791. — Journal  of  the  Voyage  of  the  Spanish  Exploring  Ships  Atrevida  and  Discuhierta, 
under  Captain  Alexander  Malaspina,  in  1791 ;  preserved  in  MSS.  in  the  viceroy's  library  la 
Mexico  and  in  the  Spanish  hydrography  at  Madrid  Malaspinn's  charts  were  published  in 
a  quarto  volume  by  the  Spanish  government  about  1802,  and  credited  to  tho  voyage  of  the 


600  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES  • 

Sutil  and  Mejicana,  and  afterwards  became  the  established  authorities  in  the  Spanish  marines 
for  the  north  Pacitic  coast  down  to  1830. 

]792.— The  Viceroy's  Archives  of  Mexican  History,  collected  and  arranged  under  orders 
from  Viceroy  Revilla  Gigedo  by  Father  Francisco  Garcia  Figueroa,  and  arranged  in  32  or 
more  folio  volumes,  andjiow  iu  the  old  viceroy's  library  in  Mexico  City.  Perfect  copies  of 
this  valuable  collection  are  stated  to  have  been  also  sent  to  Madrid  before  1800.  It  contains 
invaluable  material,  collated  by  Cassasola  and  Bonilla,  on  the  Spanish  discovery  voyages  to 
that  portion  of  ancient  Alta  California  between  the  latitudes  55°  and  61°,  as  claimed  by 
Spain,  which  afterwards  became  the  domain  of  Russian  America,  and  now  forms  a  portion 
of  the  United  States  Territory  of  Alaska.  See  also  contribution  of  Secretary  Seward,  in 
1865,  on  Spanish  northwest  voyages,  contained  in  the  Bibliografa  Californica  of  the  author. 

1793.  —  Voyages  and  Travels  in  Asiatic  Russia  and  in  the  North  Pacific,  compiled  by  Pro- 
fessor Pierre  Simon  Pallas  ;  4  or  5  vols.,  quarto,  Paris,  1789-'93.  There  are  also  English  edi- 
tions of  the  works  of  Pallas,  who  was  a  celebrated  German  professor  in  Russia  under  the 
patronage  of  the  Empress  Catharine  II.  This  appears  to  be  the  same  work  edited  or  com- 
pleted by  Theodor  K.  de  Mirievoy,  and  which  contains  such  valuable  material  on  the  philol- 
ogy of  Europe  and  Asia.  Pallas  also  wrote  extensively  on  the  natural  history  of  Russian 
America  in  German.  Pallas  was  one  of  the  greatest  naturalists  of  his  day,  and  his  writings 
covered  a  multitude  of  subjects.  His  notations  on  the  locust  and  grasshopper  ravages  iu 
the  Crimea,  noticed  by  the  learned  Russian  entomologist,  Motschulsky,  and  also  by  the 
author  of  this  bibliography  in  the  Smithsonian  report  for  1859,  are  of  great  value  in  science. 

1793.  —  Voyages  and  Travels  to  the  Coppermine  River  and  the  Countries  west  of  Canada  in 
1789-'93,  by  Alexander  Mackenzie;  in  8vo  and  quarto,  London,  1801  and  1802.  The  work 
of  Samuel  Hearne,  describing  his  voyage  of  1770-1772  in  some  of  the  countries  visited  by 
Mackenzie,  and  for  the  discovery  of  copper  mines,  was  published  in  London  in  quarto  in 

1799. —  Voyage  round  the  World,  by  Captain  Jean  Francois  G.  de  La  Perouse  ;  edited  by 
M.  Millet  Muriau.  Government  edition  iu  French,  4  vols.,  quarto,  1797,  maps  and  illustra- 
tions ;  also  English  and  German  editions. 

1799. —  Voyage  to  the  Northwest  Coa  ts  of  America  avd  Round  the  World,  1790  to  1792,  in 
the  French  sliip  Solide,  by  Captain  Etiene  Marchand,  preceded  by  an  historical  introduction 
of  discoveries,  &c.,  on  the  northwest  coasts  of  America,  by  Claret  Fleurell,  (in  French,)  in 
4  vols.,  quarto,  Paris,  1799. 

1801. —  Voyage  of  Discovery  and  Exploration  on  the  Northwest  Coasts  of  America  in  1790 
to  1795,  ^'c,  tVc  ,  by  Captain  George  Vaucmiver,  R.  N.;  plates  and  maps;  published  by  the 
governuient  in  5  or  6  vols.,  quarto,  London,  180K  Lieutenant  Broughton,  an  officer  of  one 
of  Vancouver's  vessels,  also  published  an  account  of  the  voyage  iu  quarto  form  at  Loudon, 
in  1804. 

1802. —  Voyage  of  the  Sutil  and  Mcxicana,  exploring  vessels,  under  Captains  Dionisio  Gal- 
iano  and  Cayatano  Valdcz,  of  the  Spanish  navy,  in  1792,  to  the  northwest  coasts  ;  published 
by  order  of  the  King  of  Spain,  in  I  vol.,  8vo,  in  1802,  with  map.  The  Memorias  sobre  las 
Observaciones  Astrouomicas  que  ban  servido  de  fundamentos  a  las  Cartas  de  la  Costa  Nor-, 
west(!  de  America,  written  about  1810  by  Admiral  Espinosa,  of  the  Spanish  navy,  aud  pub- 
lished by  the  Hydrographic  office  of  Madrid,  is  spokeu  of  by  Humboldt  as  a  work  of  value. 

1805.  —  Catalogo  de  las  lenguas  Conocidas,  y  numerucion,  division  y  clases  de  estas,  segun  la 
diversidad  de  sus  idiomas  y  dialcctos,  hy  ¥iil\ieY  lLorenz,o  llervaSjSOC.  Jesuits,  iu  six  vols., 
quarto,  of  nearly  400  pages  each.     Published  at  Madrid  1800  to  1805  ;  also  in  octavo. 

1806. —  Ihe  '' Mithradatcs  oder  AUgmcine  Sprachinkiindc  mit  dem  Vatcr  als  Sprachbone," 
&c.,a  famous  authority  iu  the  philosophy  of  languages,  was  commenced  by  John  Christo- 
plier  Adelung,  of  Berlin,  iu  1806,  and  coucluded  by  John  Sevevau  Vater,  iu  1817,  in  five 
vols.,8vo,  at  Berlin.  Aiujther  work  was  jiublishcd  by  Frederick  Adelung,  iu  1815,  at  St. 
Petersbiu-g,  in  quarto,  entitled  "Catheriuas  der  Grosseu  Verdieuste,"  ttc,  &c.  The  Mith- 
radatcs contains  valuable  matter  ou  the  Indian  languages  of  the  far  north  Pacitic  coasts. 

1811. —  Works  of  Alexander  Humholdt.  A  critical  examination  of  the  history,  navigation, 
and  geography  ot  the  New  World  and  the  progress  of  nautical  astronomy  iu  the  15th  and 
16th  centuries ;  in  French,  5  vols.,  8vo,  Paris,  l836-'39.  Also,  Researches  concerning  the 
Institutions  and  Monuments  of  the  Ancient  Inhabitants  of  North  America,  with  descriptions 
and  scenes  iu  the  Cordilleras,  plates,  uuips,  and  jilans  ;  in  *2  vols.,  Iblio,  Paris,  1810;  Lon- 
don edition,  2  vols.,  Hvo,  1814.  Also,  Essay  on  the  Kingdom  of  New  Spain,  in  2  vols., 
folio,  Paris,  1808-181 1,  plates,  maps,  aud  plans  ;  London  edition  iu  4  vols.,  8vo,  1811 ;  also 
a  New  York  edition  in  2  vols.,  8vo,  1811.  All  these  works  contain  valuable  notations  on  the 
Alaskan  countries. 

1812. — Putesckcstwil  W.  America,  by  Chvostov  I.  Davidoff.  2  vols.,  8vo,  St.  Petersburg, 
1812. 

1814. —  Voyage  Round  the  World  in  the  Russian  ships  Neva  and  Nadedsda,  in  1803-1806, 
commanded  by  Adam  John  Von  Kruesenstern,  (afterwards  admiral  in  the  imi^erial  navy.) 
English  edition,  in  quarto,  London,  1814,  with  maps,  plates,  &,c.    Also,  Berlin  edition.    The 

/- 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  601 

other  works  pablished  on  this  voyape  by  Kruesenstem's  officers  are  Dr.  Langsdorflf 's  work, 
ill  2  vols.,  quarto,  London,  181(5,  and  Captain  Wrey  Lisiansky's,  in  1  vol.,  quarto,  London, 
1S14.  Tbey  wore  also  all  publislicd  in  different  forms  in  the  Russian  language  and  in 
Freiicb.  Admiral  Kruesenstern  also  wrote  a  work  of  78  pages  on  the  Indian  languages  of 
Alaska,  for  the  St.  Petersburg  Academy,  in  181:5.  He  was  also  the  most  thoroughly  instructed 
seaman  in  the  world  on  the  hydrography  of  the  Pacific,  and  compiled  those  charts  of  the 
great  ocean  which  are  the  models  of  all  others,  all  of  which,  with  his  nautical  notes  and 
memoirs  accompanying  these,  have  made  him  celebrated  among  the  savans  of  America  and 
Europe.  Before  his  death,  about  1850,  be  had  tilled  many  posts  of  the  highest  honor  in  the 
imperial  .service,  and  was  a  man  of  the  most  estimable  personal  character. 

1817. —  Collection  of  I'oyages  in  the  South  Seas  and  the  North  Pacific,  from  1.527  to  1800. 
By  Admiral  James  Burney,  R.  N.  In  6  vols.,  quarto,  London,  1814-1817;  with  plates, 
charts,  &c.     This  valuable  work  contains  very  little  on  voyages  after  1770. 

1817. — The  American  Coast  Pilot,  Sfc.  By  Edmund  Blunt,  of  New  York.  The  editions 
of  this  well-known  work  subsequent  to  1850  contain  valuable  notices  of  the  hydrography 
of  Russian  America  and  the  northwest  coasts.  The  same  may  be  said  of  "The  American 
Navigator,"  by  N.  A.  Bowditch  ;  but  th»  editions  of  both  works  prior  to  1850  are  very 
meagre  on  the  coasts  mentioned. 

1818-34. —  Voyage  to  California  and  the  North  Pacific  Coasts,  in  the  French  trading  ship 
Bordelnis.  By  Captain  Camile  Rocquefeul.  2  vols.,  8vo,  Paris,  1823.  Voyage  Round  the 
florid  in  the  French  trading  ship  Heros,  in  1826-1829.  By  Captain  Duhaut  Cilley.  In  2 
vols.,  8vo,  Paris,  1834.  Both  these  works  relate  to  California  and  the  coasts  further  north, 
and  contain  much  interesting  matter  on  the  fur  trade  of  the  epoch  ante  1830. 

1823. —  Voyage  of  Discorerii  to  the  Pacific  Ocean  and  Behring''s  Straits,  California,  Sfc,  in 
the  Russi'inship  Ruric,  in  1815-1818.  By  Captain  Otto  Von  Kotzebue,  (afterwards  admiral 
in  the  imperial  navy.)  In  3  vols.,  8vo,  London,  1823.  Editions  also  in  German  and  French. 
Chamisso  was  the  surgeon  and  naturalist  of  the  Ruric,  and  for  many  years  after  made  val- 
uable contributions  to  the  learned  societies  of  Russia,  Germany,  and  France,  on  the  fauna 
and  flora  of  the  countries  visited,  particularly  of  Alaska.  Kotzebue  also  made  another  voyage 
to  Russian  America,  the  central  Pacific  islands,  and  California,  in  1823  to  1826,  in  the  Rus- 
sian ship  Enterprise,  or  Predpriate,  an  account  of  which  was  published  in  English  at  London 
in  1830,  in  2  vols.,  8vo.  In  this  voyage  Eschscholz  went  as  naturalist,  and  after  his  arrival 
in  Russia  contributed  valuable  material  on  the  fauna  and  flora  of  Alaska,  California,  «S:.c., 
in  diflferent  German,  Russian,  and  Frwnch  journals  of  learning  and  science,  which  are  highly 
esteemed.  Choiis,  the  artist  of  Kotzebue's  voyage,  who  was  afterwards  killed  in  Mexico, 
also  published  an  illustrated  work  on  the  voyage,  entitled  "Voyage  Pittoresque."  These 
two  voyages  of  Kotzebue  are  often  confounded  as  one,  and  the  names  of  Chamisso  and 
Eschscholz,  which  Kotzebue  attached  to  certain  localities  in  Alaska,  are  sometimes  mistaken 
for  Indian  or  Spanish  terms,  and  both  as  members  of  one  expedition.  Admiral  Kotzebue 
served  in  the  Crimean  war,  and  was  highly  esteemed  by  bis  government,  and  a  hydro- 
graphic  author  of  eminence.     He  died,  we  believe,  in  1858. 

1824. —  Voyage  to  Russian  Avicrica  Sfc,  by  M.  Chromtschenko ;  vide  St.  Petersburg 
Archives  of  History,  &c.,  &c.,  for  1824;  also  in  German  in  the  periodical  Hertha,  for  1824. 
Chromtschenko  and  Etoline  made  surveys  of  the  Alaskan  coasts,  which  were  reduced  to 
charts  and  maps. 

1831. —  Voyage  of  the  ship  Blossom  to  the  North  Pacific  and  Behring^s  Straits  in  1825  to 
1828,  to  co-operate  with  the  Arctic  Expeditions  from  the  Atlantic.  By  Captain  F.  W.  Becchey, 
K.  N.,  (afterwards  admiral.)  Published  under  orders  of  the  British  Admiralty.  In  1  vol. 
quarto,  also  in  2  vols.,  8vo,  London,  1831 ;  both  with  plates,  maps,  «X:c.  A  quarto  volume 
on  the  natural  history  of  the  voyage  was  also  published  at  London  in  1839.  The  botanical 
collections  were  edited  by  Sir  William  J.  Hooker  and  others,  in  the  separate  vdlumes  included 
in  the  Flora  Boreala  Americana,  published  in2  vols.,  quarto,  about  1840,  and  Hooker's  Ptantae 
Jconii,  of  1844.  A  large  amount  of  valuable  material  relating  to  Alaska  is  to  be  found  in 
all  these  volumes.     Admiral  Beechey,  we  believe,  died  in  London  in  1859. 

183»3. —  Voyage  to  the  North  Pacific  in  the  Russian  ship  Scniative,  in  182G-'29,  by  Captain 
Frederick  Lutke,  (now  admiral  in  the  Imperial  navy,)  in  4  vols.,  Svo;  St.  Petersburg  and 
Paris,  ]835-'36.  This  is  one  of  the  most  valuable  works  on  Russian  America  and  the  north 
Pacific.     The  author  served  in  the  Crimean  war  of  1856. 

1839. — Baer,  Von  K.  E.  Statistics  and  Ethnography  of  the  Russian  American  Countries. 
This  author,  it  is  said,  was  with  Admiral  Von  Wraugul  when  governor  of  Sitka,  and  made 
valuable  contributions  on  the  above  subjects  and  on  natural  history  to  the  scientific  journals 
of  St.  Petersburg  and  Berlin,  between  1837  and  1845. 

1839.— TAe  Physical  History  of  Man.  In  2  vols.,  8vo,  plates  ;  1839.  The  Natural  His- 
tory of  Man.  In  2  vols.,  8vo,  plates ;  1855.  Both  by  Dr.  J.  Pritchard.  of  London,  and 
esteemed  as  high  authorities  in  ethnology.  They  contain  valuable  matter  on  the  Alaska 
Indians.  The  volumes  of  transactions  of  the  ethnological  societies  of  New  York,  London, 
and  Paris  also  contain  accounts  of  the  tribes  of  the  Territory  to  be  found  in  no  other  publica- 


602  EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND   TERRITORIES 

tions.     In  tliis  category  are  also  the  learned  ethnological  works  of  Dr.  S.  G.  Morton,  of 
Philadelphia,  from  1840  to  1850. 

1839. — Beitrnge  zur  Kentniss  des  Russian  Reichs,  und  der  angranzanden  Lander  Asies, 
by  K.  E.  Von  Bar  and  G.  Von  Helmersen,  in  several  volumes,  from  1839  et  sig. 

1840. — Notes  on  the  Islands  of  the  dislrict  of  Unalasha,  Sfc,  in  3  vols.  8vo,  1840.  Also 
notes  on  the  Koloschou  and  other  Russian  Americin  Indian  tribes  and  their  languages,  in 
1  vol.,  8vo,  1646,  by  the  Greek  Priest  Jvan  Veniaminov,  (in  Russian,)  both  published  in  St. 
Petersburg.  W.  Schott  also  published  some  philological  papers  on  the  Koloschon  language, 
in  Erman's  archives,  Berlin,  3d  vol.,  1843 

1843. —  Voyage  of  the  Sulphur  to  the  North  Pacific,  SfC,  in  1837-1841,  under  Sir  Edward 
Belcher,  R.  N.,  (now  admiral.)  In  ^vols.,  8vo,  1840.  The  zoology  of  the  expedition,  in 
quarto,  was  published  in  1843-45.  These  accounts  relate  largely  to  Russian  America.  They 
are  government  works. 

1844. — Explorations,  SfC,  in  the  two  Californias,  S^'c,  ^'c,  in  1840-43.  By  Duflot  de 
Mofras.  In  3  vols.,  8vo,  with  volume  of  atlas  and  plates.  Paris,  1844.  Government  work. 
Contains  notices  of  Alaska  and  its  trade,  Indians,  &c. 

1844. — Annies  de  la  Philosophie  Chretiene.  Vol.  15  and  others.  Contains  papers  of  M. 
Prevauey  on  the  ethnological  connections  of  Alaska  and  Mexico  by  the  Mongolian  races. 

1845. — Overland  Journey  Round  the  World,  S(c.  By  Sir  George  Simpson,  governor  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  territories  in  1841-42.     In  2  vols.,  8vo,  London,  1845.     Also  in  New  York. 

1845. — Exploring  Expedition  Round  the  IVorld,  in  the  Vincennes  and  other  government 
vessels  of  the  United  States,  in  1838-42,  under  Lieutenant  Cbarles  Wilkes,  (now  admiral 
U.  S.  N.)  In  5  vols.,  imperial  octavo.  Government  work,  1845.  Plates,  maps,  charts,  and 
plans.  Some  40  volumes  altogether  were  published  on  the  results  of  this  expedition,  many 
of  which  contain  more  or  less  valuable  of  scientific  matter  on  Alaska.  A  number  of  the 
officers  of  the  expedition  afterwards  served  in  California  from  1846  to  1867. 

1846. — L' Oregon  et  les  Cotes  du  Norde  Pacifiquc,  Sfc.  By  M.  Felix.  With  map;  1  vol., 
8vo.     Paris,  1846. 

1846.—  Ethnology  and  Philology  of  JVilkes^s  Exploring  Expedition.  By  Horatio  Hale.  1 
vol.,  quarto.     Philadelphia,  1846. 

1847^ — History  of  Oregon,  California,  and  the  North  Pacific  Coasts.  By  Robert  W.  Green- 
how.  1  vol.,  8vo,  4th  ed.,  Boston,  1847.  Mr.  Greenhow  was  United  States  attorney  for 
the  California  Land  Commission  of  1852,  and  died  in  San  Francisco  in  1836.  His  work 
contains  valuable  notations  on  Alaskan  history. 

1847. — Studies  on  the  Primitive  History  and  Antiquities  of  the  Races  of  America  and  Ocean- 
ica,  by  Gustave  D'Eitcthal,  2  vols.,  8vo.  Fragments  on  tbe  History,  Geography,  &c.,  of 
America,  by  C.  F.  Jomard  ;  1  vol.,  8vo.  Both  these  works  were  published  (in  French)  at 
Paris  in  1847, 

1848. —  Volume  of  Charts  and  Maps  on  Russian  America,  Sfc,  printed  by  the  lithographic 
press  at  Sitka  in  1848. 

1849. — The  Collections  of  Lieutenant  Z'igvslcin,  of  the  Imperial  navy,  on  the  Indian  Tribes 
and  Lansvagts  of  Alr.ska,  are  printed  in  the  Memoirs  of  the  St.  Petersburg  Geographical 
Society  for  ]847-'48-'49,  et  seq.,  and  also  in  his  work  of  travels,  in  2  vols.,  8vo. ;  St.  Peters- 
burg, 1847-1848. 

1850-'60. —  Orography,  8fc.,  of  the  North  Pacific  Countries,  by  Professor  Grewingk,  pub- 
lished in  Transactions  of  the  Mineralogical  Society  of  St.  Petersburg,  and  also  in  Germany. 
This  is  stated  by  Mr.  Sumner  to  be  a  very  valuable  work,  particularly  on  the  mineral  devel- 
opments of  Alaska. 

1850. — National  History  of  the  Varieties  of  Man,  by  Dr.  R.  G.  Latham.  8vo,  London, 
1850. 

1851. — Sir  John  Richardson's  Arctic  Expedition.     2  vols.,  8vo,  London,  1851. 

1851. — A  Navticnl  and  Historical  Directory  of  the  Pacific  Coasts  and  Islands,  SfC,  ice,  by 
Alexander  G.  Findlay;  2  vols.,  royal  8vo,  London,  1851.  This  is  a  work  of  great  merit, 
and  one  of  the  best  compiled  on  oceanic  hydrography,  and  has  been  of  great  utility.  The 
author  is  well  kijown  in  England,  and  an  eminent  collaborator  in  the  proceedings  of  the 
Royal  Geographical  Society.  His  notations  on  the  Alaskan  coasts  are  from  the  best  author- 
ities of  Russia  and  other  nations. 

]g50. —  Voyage  of  the  ship  Herald,  under  Captain  Hy.  Kellet,  in  1845  to  1851,  being  three 
cruises  to  the  Behring's  straits  countries  and  a  voyage  round  the  world  ;  by  Dr.  B.  Seeman; 
2  vols.,  8vo,  1853.  Other  volumes  on  the  natural  history  of  the  voyage  were  published  by 
Prof.  Edward  P'orbes,  1  vol.,  quarto,  1853.  A  separate  volume  was  written  by  Dr.  Seeman 
on  the  botany  of  the  voyage,  in  quarto.  All  of  them  are  in  high  esteem  in  the  learned 
world.  See  also  the  volumes  of  Sir  Leopold  McClintock  on  his  voyage  to  Behring's  straits 
and  the  Arctic,  of  1852  to  1854  ;  also,  the  volumes  of  the  London  Nautical  Magazine.     The 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  603 

work  of  Sooiimn  contsiiiis  the  inodel  of  au  exploring  voyage,  and  is  the  most  conrcniout 
thiug  of  the  kind  we  have  ever  seen. 

18r)5. — Admiral  Von  Jfran^cl.  This  gentleman,  who  several  times  visited  California,  was 
governor  of  Russian  America  before  1848,  and  wrote  largely  in  the  Russian  and  Crcrman 
ouruals  on  the  status  and  natural  history  of  Alaska.  His  works  are  considered  of  lirst-class 
merit. 

18.")"). — Notices  of  the  Crustacea  and  other  Invertebrate  Marine  Animah  of  the  North  Pacific 
Countries,  by  Professor  William  Simpson,  surgeon,  &c.,  of  the  United  States  North  Pacific 
>xpedition  of  Ho-l-'ot).     These  notices  were  published  in  the  'raiisactions  of  several  le;:rned 
ocieties  of  Philadelphia,  New  York,  and  Boston,  from  1855  to  \'6i^).\,  and  would  now  muke 
l'2mo.  of  some  !?l)0  pages,  and  have  become  standard  authorities  in  natural  science.     The 
autiior  is  well   known   in  California,  has  contributed  valuable  services  to  the  Smithsonian 
Institute,  and  is  now  in  charge  of  the  Chicago  Museum  of  the  Natural  Sciences.     His  nota- 
tions on  the  invertebrate  animals  of  the  Alaskan  coasts  are  extremely  interesting  and  curious. 
18.55. —  Transactions  of  the  California  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences,  in  4  vols.,  8vo,  from 
1855  to  ]8t)C);  contains  several  valuable  papers  on  the  natural  history,  &c.,  of  Alaska,  by 
writers  of  the  Pacific  domain. 

1855. —  The  Birds  of  Texas,  California,  Oregon,  8fc.,  by  John  Cassin,  in  2  vols,  quarto; 
Philadelphia,  18.55;  with  plates.  Also  the  volumes  of  John  J.  Audubon  on  the  Biography 
of  North  American  Birds,  and  his  great  work  cf  accompanying  plates,  all  published  bctbre 
1855.  The  Quadrupeds  of  Norlh  American  is  a  celebrated  work;  also  written  by  Audubou 
and  Dr.  John  Bachmau,  lg40-'43.  All  these  volumes  are  splendidly  illustrated,  and  relate 
largely  to  the  natural  history  of  Alaska. 

18.57. — John  C.  E.  Buschiiiann,  Librarian  of  the  Royal  Library  of  Berlin.  The  philolog- 
ical treatises  of  this  eminent  savan  on  the  Indian  languages  of  Russian  America,  and  show- 
ing their  relations  to  the  Athabascan  families  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  compari- 
sons with  the  northern  tribes  of  Mexico,  are  contained  in  the  volumes  of  Transactions  of  the 
Royal  Academy  of  Berlin  since  1850. 

1857. —  The  North  Pacific  Exploring  and  Surveying  Expedition,  by  Lieutenant  A.  W.  Hab- 
ersham, U.  S.  Navy;   1  vol.,  8vo,  1857. 

1857. —  Three  Years  in  Washington  Territory,  with  notices  of  the  northwest  coasts,  by  Jas. 
G.  Swan;  1  vol.,  ]2mo,  New  York,  1857. 

18.57. — Mission  to  the  Government  of  Japan,  by  Commodore  M.  C.  Perry,  U.  S.  Navy  ;  in 
3  vols.,  quarto,  1857,  copiously  illustrated.  Contains  highly  valuable  notices  on  the  hydro- 
graphy of  the  north  Pacific,  its  great  sea  cuiTents,  «fcc.,  «fcc. ;  government  work. 

1857.  —  The  Pacific  Railroad  Survey  volumes,  from  1853  to  1858,  in  12  vols.,  quarto,  copiously 
illustrated.  The  first  volume  and  the  8th,  9th,  and  10th  contain  valuable  notations  on  the 
Indians,  birds,  fishes,  and  animals,  &c.,  of  the  Pacific  domains  and  of  Alaska.  In  the  eighth 
and  ninth  volumes  may  be  found  Spencer  F.  Baird's  Bibliographies  of  American  Natural  His- 
tory, where  all  the  authorities  on  Alaskan  zoology  are  set  forth. 

1658. — Reports  of  the  United  States  Coast  Survey  Office,  in  quartos,  since  1853.  That  of 
1858  contains  the  excellent  directory  of  George  Davidson  of  the  coasts  of  California  and  to 
the  far  north,  and  incidentally  of  Alaska. 

1858. — Literature  of  the  Aboriginal  Languages  of  America,  by  H.  E.  Ludewig ;  with 
additions  by  W.  W.  Turner  and  N.  Truebner.     1  vol.,  8vo.,  London,  1858. 

18G0. — Chinese  Repository.  An  English  magazine  published  at  Canton  since  1838,  and 
making  now  over  30  volumes.  It  contains  an  immense  amount  of  matter  on  Asiatic  litera- 
ture, and  has  papers  on  Alaska  and  Kamstchatka.  It  was  first  edited  by  an  American  mis- 
sionary from  Massachusetts. 

1860. — Geographical  Dictionary  of  all  the  Countries  of  the  JVorld,  by  J.  B.  McCulloch  ; 
in  2  vols.,  royal  8vo,  London,  1855,  and  recent  editions. 

18G0. —  The  Forest  Trees  of  North  America,  by  Dr.  J.  G.Cooper,  of  California;  in  Patent 
Office  Report  for  1860,     Tliis  is  an  addendum  to  the  great  work  of  Michaux  and  Nuftall. 

1660. — The  Flora  of  North  America,  by  Dr.  John  Torrey  and  Dr.  Asa  Gray  ;  in  royal  Bvo 
volumes.    Also,  their  continuations  in  the  volumes  of  the  Railroad  Surveys. 

1860. — Smithsonian  Institution.  The  volumes  of  annual  reports  of  this  Institution,  and 
those  entitled  "Contributions  to  Knowledge,"  contain  several  valuable  notations  on  the 
Indians  and  natural  h^tory  of  Alaska.  Major  Robert  Kennicott,  of  Chicago,  one  of  their 
most  famous  assistants,  and  who  ex])lored  the  eastern  sections  of  Alaska  in  J862-'64,  died 
at  Michaelowski,  in  that  Territory  in  May,  1866,  while  engaged  in  explora'.ions  connected 
with  Bulckley's  Telegraph  Survey.  The  manuscripts  of  his  travels  are  said  to  bo  in  posses- 
sion of  his  friends  in  Chicago  and  the  Smithsonian  Institution. 

1860.  —  The  Indianalogy  of  California,  including  notes  on  the  Indian  tribes  of  Alaska  and 
other  portions  of  the  Pacific  dumain  ;  iniblishcd  in  the  California  Farmer  newspaper  in  four 
series  of  150  numbers,  !'rum  1860  to  1864,  by  Alex.  S.  Taylor;  perfect  set  in  the  mercantile 


604  EESOUECES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

library  of  San  Francisco,  and  the  libraiy  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution.  The  valuable  papers 
of  the  late  Albert  Gallatin  on  the  northwest  Indian  nations  are  to  be  found  in  the  volumes 
of  the  New  York  Ethnological  society,  after  1845. 

]8(i0. —  The  Ge.ograplnj  of  the  Sm,  by  Lieutenant  M.  F.  Maury,  8th  edition,  New  York, 
]861  ;  also  his  "Wind  and  Current  Chaits  of  the  Pacific  ocean.  This  author  was  Superin- 
tendent of  the  National  Observatory  at  Washington,  and  afterwards  became  an  admiral  in 
the  rebel  service  of  the  southern  confederacy.  The  work  contains  valuable  notations  on  the 
winds  and  currents  of  the  North  Pacific. 

J8G1. —  The  Vegetation  of  the  Coasts  and  Islands  of  the  Pacific,  from  the  collections  on  the 
voyage  of  the  Russian  ship  Seniavive,  under  Captain  Lutke,  1826-1829,  by  P.  H.  Von 
Kitlitz,  in  quarto,  publislied  in  Germany,  in  1861. 

1861. — History  of  the  Discovery  of  the  Earth,  by  Carl  Von  Ritter  ;  London,  1861. 

1861.  —  History  of  Eastern  Asia,  Mongolia,  China.  Manchuria,  the  Amoor,  Kamtschatka, 
Sfc,  &^'c.,  &fc.,  by  Professor  Frederick  C.  Neuman,  of  Munich  and  Berlin;  London,  1861. 

1862. — Discoveries  in  northern  Pacific  from  Mongolian  Asia,  before  the  times  of  the  Ice- 
landers, (A.  D.  .500.)  These  are  said  to  be  written  by  Mr.  C.  G.  Leland,  and  published  iu 
the  Knickerbocker  and  Continental  magazines  of  1848  and  1862,  and  are  mostly,  as  is  under- 
stood, from  the  work  of  Professor  F.  C.  Neuman,  of  Munich  and  Berlin. 

1862. — History  of  the  Discovery  and  Chartography  of  the  Pacific  and  Atlantic  coasts  of 
North  America,  by  Dr.  John  G.  Kohl.     1  vol.,  8vo,  London,  1862. 

1863. — Report  to  the  Imperial  Government  on  the  Resources  of  Russian  America,  8fc.,  with 
notices  of  British  Columbia,  California  and  the  north  coast  countries,  iu  1860-'61,  by  Cap- 
tain P.  N.  Golownin;  St.  Petersburg,  1863.  Also  published  in  some  periodical  in  numbers, 
and,  as  is  said,  in  English. 

1863. — Les  Penples  de  la  Russie.  This  we  judge,  from  Sumner's  remarks,  is  a  very 
voluminous  and  valuable  work  on  the  populations  of  the  Russian  empire,  published  about 
1863.     (See  also  the  Almanach  de  Gotha  for  1867,  on  the  same  subject.) 

1864. —  Travels  in  the  countries  of  the  river  Amoor,  with  Notices  of  Russian  America  and 
North  Pacific  Commerce,  by  Major  Perry  D.  McCollins  ;  1  vol.,  8vo ;  New  York,  1864.  This 
was  written  iu  furtherance  of  the  great  enterprise  of  the  telegraph  connecting  North  Amer- 
ica and  Asia. 

1865. — Atlas  for  the  History  of  the  Discovery  of  America,  compiled  under  directio]i)  of  the 
Royal  Academy  of  Munich.  This  collection  is  made  by  photographing  old  and  scarce  inaps 
on  the  Americas  to  the  number  13,  and  100  copies  of  the  work  were  published  in  1865,  at 
Munich,  at  the  price  of  |)18.  Some  of  these,  relating  to  the  northwest  coasts  before  1571,  are 
taken  fiom  a  scarce  and  celebrated  chartographical  collection  of  the  Portuguese  scholar  Vaz 
Dourada.    (See  notes  of  Professor  F.  C.  Neuman,  in  the  San  Francisco  Evening  Bulletin.) 

1867. —  Speech  of  Senator  Sumner,  of  Massachusetts,  in  the  United  States  Senate,  in  May, 
1867,  on  the  jmrchase  of  Alaska,  and  the  resources,  8fc.,  of  the  Territory.  Pamphlet,  8vo,  of 
48  pages  and  large  map  of  the  Territory  and  vicinities.  The  discussions  on  the  transfer  of 
Alaska  in  the  United  States  Congress  will  be  found  preserved  in  the  volumes  of  the  Con- 
gressional Globe,  written  down  by  the  ofiicial  reporters,  in  1867. 

1867. —  The  official  correspondence  between  Secretaiy  Seward,  of  the  State  Department,  and 
the  Russian  diplomats,  on  the  purchase  and  transfer  of  Alaska,  will  be  found  at  large  in  the 
volumes  accompanying  the  President's  message  for  1867-1868,  from  April  to  December,  1867. 
(See  also  the  San  Francisco  newspapers.) 

1867. — Neio  Map  of  Alaska.  A  new  and  extended  map  of  Russian  America  was  pre- 
pared in  May,  1867,  by  the  ofiicers  of  the  coast  survey  in  California,  which  is  stated  to  be 
detailed  from  the  most  recent  authorities,  .and  the  best  to  date. 

1867. — Bulcklcy's  Telegraph  Survey.  The  ofiicers  of  this  expedition  are  stated  to  be  engaged 
in  the  preparation  of  a  work  on  the  Explorations  of  British  Columbia  and  Alaska,  connected 
with  this  great  enterprise. 

1867. — Sea  Charts.  Some  excellent  navigating  charts  of  the  North  Pacific  coasts  have 
been  within  the  last  18  months  issued  from  the  admiralty  office  of  London.  These  contain 
the  most  recent  and  reliable  notations  prior  to  the  Coast  Survey  map  mentioned  in  the  fore- 
going. 

1868. — Letters  to  the  Ncic  York  Tribune  and  Boston  Advertiser. 

1868. — Letters  and  speech  of  Sc7iator  Cole,  of  California,  in  favor  of  the  acquisition  of 
Alaska. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  605 


GEiYERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON  TEE  PACIFIC  SLOPE. 

PROGRESS  OF  SETTLEMENT— IMMIGRATION  AND  LABOR. 
SECTION   I. 

Tn-tluti^tce  of  MrMNG  ON  OTHEK  INTERESTS. — Witliin  the  brief  space  of 
iiinoteen  years  our  people  have  opened  up  to  settlement  a  larger  area  of  territory, 
valualile  as  a  source  of  supply  for  nearly  all  the  necessities  of  man,  than  has 
ever  before  in  the  -world's  history  been  brought  -within  the  limits  of  civilization 
in  so  short  a  time.  Nineteen  years  ago  Califomia,  Arizona,  Colorado,  jMontana, 
Idaho,  Washington  Territory,  Oregon,  Utah,  and  Nevada,  occupying  more  than 
one-third  of  the  entire  area  of  the  United  States,  -were  regions  chiefly  known 
to  trappers  and  traders ;  traversed  and  occupied  for  the  most  part  by  barbai'ous 
hordes  of  Indians.  That  this  extraordinary  advance,  with  all  its  concomitant 
results  to  the  trade  and  commerce  of  the  world,  has  been  achieved  by  the  discov- 
ery and  development  of  our  mineral  resources,  no  reasonable  man  pretends  to 
dispute.  Every  day's  progress  in  our  history  speaks  for  itself,  and  the  facts 
are  patent  to  all. 

It  seems  a  little  singular,  considering  the  millions  of  treasure  thus  added  to 
om*  national  wealth,  the  vast  range  of  industry  opened  to  om-  people,  the  w'on- 
derful  impulse  given  to  agiiculture,  commerce,  and  manufactures,  that  of  all  our 
great  national  interests,  the  business  of  mining  has  had  the  hardest  struggle  to 
enlist  the  favorable  consideration  of  our  government.  Of  late  years,  through 
the  irresistible  logic  of  results,  something  has  been  achieved  in  the  way  of  more 
intelligent  federal  legislation. 

The  mineral  land  law,  of  July  28,  1866,  granting  titles  in  fee  to  the  miners, 
is  an  advance  in  the  right  direction.  The  appropriation  for  the  collection  of 
mining  statistics  is  another. 

There  are  in  the  Athantic  States  many  Avho  will  speak  of  mining  as  an  inter- 
est inimical  to  the  welfare  of  a  people,  owing  to  its  fluctuating  and  hazardous 
character,  and  to  the  contempt  it  is  supposed  to  beget  for  the  more  gradual 
methods  of  acquiring  wealth.  There  is  much  truth  in  this  view  when  it  is  con- 
fined to  the  early  style  of  mining,  which  despised  restraint  and  debauched  the 
morals  as  it  impaired  the  constitutions  of  those  who  followed  it  in  a  spirit  of 
-wild  adventure.  But  the  objection  does  not  lie  against  mining  as  a  regular,  sys- 
tematic pursuit,  directed  by  skill  and  caj^ital,  and  relying  upon  the  steady  con- 
tinuance of  moderate  pn^fits.  This  kind  of  mining,  by  common  consent,  is  des- 
tined to  be  one  of  the  most  permanent  and  healthful  sources  of  prospei'ity.  The 
application  of  American  ingenuity  and  enterprise  to  the  development  of  the 
deposits  (jf  precious  metals  found  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  is  certain  ulti- 
mately to  make  mining  for  gold  and  silver  as  legitimate  and  safe  a  business  as 
mining  for  coal  and  irt)n,  and  as  great  a  promoter  of  diversified  industry. 

If  we  take  mining  only  in  its  past  condition  and  its  present  transition  state, 
we  must  admit  that  with  all  its  evil  effects  upon  individuals,  it  has  caused  most 
important  general  benefits,  especially  in  antici])ating  by  generations  the  peopling 
of  the  immense  Tenitories  of  the  west,  and  thus  widening  the  field  for  the  dis- 
play of  national  energies,  broadening  the  spirit  and  firmly  bracing  tlie  national 
credit.  But  for  the  mining  furor  of  the  last  19  years,  California  would  proba- 
bly have  remained  a  vast  cattle  range  to  this  day,  and  all  the  great  Territories 
that  adjoin  it,  uow^  peopling  with  civilized  communities,  and  nearly  traversed  by 
a  railroad  uniting  both  shores  of  the  continent,  would  still  be  savage  wastes, 
held  and  controlled  by  the  barbarians  who  are  fast  retiring  before  the  forces  of 
modem  progi'ess. 

The  diiect  effect  of  minins:  upon  a^culture  and  commerce  is  strikingly  shown 


606  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

in  California.  How  mucli  wheat  would  now  be  exported  from  San  Francisco 
but  for  the  mines  and  the  population  attracted  by  them?  How  many  interior 
towns  would  have  been  built ;  how  far  would  the  Pacific  railroad  have  been 
constructed ;  where  would  have  been  the  overland  mail  and  telegraph,  and  the 
China  steamship  line,  but  for  the  necessities  crea^ted  by  the  development  of  our 
mineral  wealth?  The  mines  have  not  only  led  to  these  things,  but  they  have 
built  up  a  great  manufacturmg  interest,  which  alxeady,  in  San  Francisco  alone, 
estimates  its  annual  product  by  a  figure  nearly  as  high  as  that  of  the  gold  fields. 
The  truth  is,  agricultm'e,  commerce,  manufactures,  and  mining,  ai'c  essentially^ 
homogeneous  pm'suits.  The  only  antagonism  is  one  of  ^\Tong  methods,  ana 
these  are  sure  to  be  rectified  in  time.  In  some  quarters  of  the  globe  it  is  com- 
merce that  leads,  in  others  agriculture,  in  others  mining.  The  last  has  been 
especially  conspicuous  as  a  motor  of  emigi-ation  and  industrial  development  in 
the  Pacific  States,  and  has  caused  the  others  to  flourish  where  nothing  else  could 
have  attracted  them  for  a  long  time  later.  The  rich  silver  mines  of  Xevada 
have  peopled  that  State  with  an  industrious  and  thriving  population.  Famis 
are  seen  where  sage-brush  deserts  existed  a  few  j^ears  ago  ;  the  rugged  declivi- 
ties of  the  moimtains  abound  in  gardens.  On  the  western  slope  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada  we  have  luxuriant  orchards  and  vineyards,  in  the  place  of  endless  for- 
ests of  pine.  Baron  Humboldt,  the  most  learned  of  travellers  and  most  acute 
of  obsei^vers,  tells  us  that  the  best  cultivated  fields  of  Mexico  are  those  which 
surround  the  richest  mines  ;  and  he  bears  testimony  to  the  fact  that  "  wherever 
metallic  veins  have  been  discovered,  in  the  most  uncultivated  parts  of  the  Cor- 
dilleras, on  the  isolated  and  desert  table-lands,  the  working  of  mines,  far  from 
impeding  the  cultivation  of  the  soil,  as  it  is  generally  imagined,  has  been  singu- 
larly favorable  to  it."     And  the  reasons  he  gives  are  conclusive  : 

Waut  soon  awakens  industry.  The  soil  begins  to  be  cultivated  in  the  ravines  and  decliv- 
ities of  the  neighboring  mountains,  wherever  the  rock  is  covered  with  earth.  Farms  are 
established  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  mines.  The  high  price  of  pro\isioDs,  from  the  com- 
petition of  purchasers,  indemnifies  the  cultivator  for  the  privations  to  which  he  is  exposed 
from  the  hard  life  of  the  mountains. 

The  truth  of  these  observations  is  strikingly  illustrated  b}'  the  example  of 
California.  But  mming  in  that  State  has  a  still  more  dhect  influence  upon  the 
development  of  our  agTicultural  resources  than  the  direct  demand  it  creates  in 
the  mining  districts  for  agricultural  products.  The  vast  net-work  of  ditches  in 
the  central  counties  has  inaugurated  a  system  of  irrigation  which  may  some  day 
be  almost  as  indispensable  to  the  farms,  orchards,  and  vineyards  of  the  diy 
uplands  as  to  the  placer  diggings.  No  pm-ely  agricultural  interest  could  bear 
the  expense  of  constructing  these  immense  ditches,  some  of  which  range  from 
50  to  GO  miles  in  length,  and  cost  singly  several  himdred  thousand  dollai's. 
Most  of  these  ditches  will  be  available  for  purposes  of  irrigation  and  manufac- 
ture, long  after  the  original  occasion  for  them  shall  have  passed  away. 

Tluit  the  agricultural  and  nuinul'acturing  will  be  far  in  advance  of  the  mining 
interests  of  Califoriiia  within  a  few  years,  none  who  have  studied  the  market 
and  shipping  lists  for  the  past  year  or  two  can  doubt;  nor  can  it  be  denied  tliat 
this  is  a  matter  of  congratulation,  for  while  mining  is  so  etHcient  as  a  stimulating 
and  eo-oj)eratiug  industry,  it  is  not  the  most  solid  or  genuinely  productive  and 
lucrative  iiulustry,  and  all  human  experience  shows  that  a  people  never  attain 
the  highest  prosperity  and  the  best  culture  who  are  largely  devoted*to  a  single 
pursuit.  Humboldt  says  "the  influence  of  the  mines  on  the  progressive  culti- 
vation of  the  country  is  more  durable  than  they  are  themselves."  While  it 
must  be  admitted,  therefore,  that  "the  produce  of  the  earth  derived  from  agri- 
culture is  the  sole  basis  of  permanent  opulence,"  it  is  but  just  to  say,  so  far  at 
least  as  the  Pacific  coast  is  concerned,  that  the  working  of  mines  has  tended 
more  than  all  other  causes  to  the  development  of  that  pre-eminent  branch  of 
iudustrv. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  607 

Although  the  business  of  mining  has  not  advanced  in  any  rcmavkablo  degree 
during  the  past  year,  the  average  yieUl  is  fair,  and  greater  confidence  exists  than 
ever  before  in  the  profits  to  be  derived  from  this  pursuit  when  conducted  upon 
legitimate  principles.  The  depression  in  mining  stocks,  so  ftir  from  atibrdino- 
evidence  of  any  actual  decline  in  the  value  of  the  mines,  is  a  healthy  indication. 
It  proves  that  the  era  of  reckless  speculation  which  has  resulted  so  disastrously 
to  tliousands  of  our  citizens  is  drawing  to  a  close.  It  presents  conclusive  evi- 
dence that  a  system  of  mining  based  upon  the  fluctuations  of  a  stock  market 
can  never  be  permanently  prosperous.  Wherever  the  mines  are  carefully  worked 
by  individuals  or  by  companies  we  find  the  average  of  success  quite  as  great  as 
in  other  branches  of  industry. 

It  is  manifest,  however,  that  quartz-mining,  apart  from  the  hazards  naturally 
incident  to  it,  labors  under  disadvantages  which  do  not  pertain,  in  so  great  a 
degree,  to  any  other  pursuit.  It  requires  a  greater  amount  of  capital  and  the 
employment  of  a  larger  number  of  men  than  any  other  productive  branch  of 
industry,  exc(;pting,  probably,  nmnufactures,  which  are  not  subject  to  the  same  risks. 
Taking  the  aggregate  of  losses  and  profits  on  all  the  investments  made  in  quartz- 
mining,  tliere  is  no  business,  so  far,  on  the  Pacific  slope  which  has  proved  less 
remunerative  to  capitalists.* 

Cost  of  Labor  and  Expenses  of  Living. — A  serious  obstacle  to  the  pros- 
perity of  the  mining  interest  on  the  Pacific  slope  is  the  high  cost  of  labor.  It  is 
impossible  that  any  mine,  however  productive,  can  long  continue  to  bear  the  drain 
upon  its  resources  necessary,  at  the  present  rate  of  w^ages,  to  defray  the  expenses 
of  working  it.  There  are  innumerable  mines  in  ever}^  State  and  Territory  west 
of  the  llocky  mountains  now  idle,  which  could  be  worked  at  a  profit  if  the 
expenses  of  labor  were  not  so  disproportionate  to  the  cost  of  living.  Wages  are 
still  in  many  instances  more  than  double  what  they  are  in  the  Atlantic  States, 
and  tenfold  more  than  the  wages  paid  in  Europe.  The  question  arises,  why 
should  this  be  the  case,  when  the  cost  of  living  is  now  but  little  greater  in 
many  of  the  mining  districts  than  in  the  Atlantic  States,  and  certainly  bears 
no  proj)oi-tion  between  the  wages  paid  and  the  cost  of  living  in  Europe. 

In  Califomia  the  rate  of  wages  for  unskilled  labor  in  the  mines  is  $2' 50  to 
$3  per  day ;  cost  of  board  and  lodging,  $5  to  $7  per  week.  In  Nevada,  wages 
S4  per  day  ;  living,  $7  to  SIO  per  week.  In  Montana,  wages  $6  per  day ;  living, 
SlO  to  S14  per  week.  In  Idaho,  wages  $5  to  S6 ;  living,  $9  to  $12  per  week. 
In  Oregon  and  Washington,  SI  50  to  S2  50  per  day  ;  li\dng,  $4  to  8G  per  week. 
Skilled  labor  varies  greatly,  according  to  the  demand  and  supply.  The  follow- 
ing rates  paid  in  Virginia,  Nevada,  for  the  vanous  grades  of  labor,  may  be  taken 
as  a  medium  illustration  : 

Gold. 

Ordinary  miners,  per  shift  of  eight  hours $4  00 

Carjienters  and  millwrights,  per  day 5  00 

Stone  and  brick-masons,  per  day 6  00 

Engineers,  second  class,  per  day 85  00  to  6  00 

Engineers,  first  claims G  00  to  8  00 

MILL  HANDS,  TWO  SHIFTS  IN  24  HOUES. 

Amalgamators  and  feeders 3  00  to  3  50 

Hock- breakers  and  ordinary  workmen 2  50  to  3  00 

At  the  mills,  when  the  men  are  boarded,  the  foremen  get  $55  to  $60,  the  latter 
845  to  850,  per  month. 

In  section  18,  page  384,  a  table  is  given  of  the  market  prices  of  provisions 
and  various  other  necessary  articles  where  miners  board  and  lodge  themselvest 

*  Some  of  these  observations  orifi^inally  appeared  in  newspapers  to  wliich  they  were  fur- 
nished by  the  uudersif^ned. — J.  R.  B. 
t  The  prices  in  San  Francisco  are  from  25  to  30  per  cent.  less. 


608 


EESOUECES    OF    STATES   AND/  TERRITORIES 


Many  of  tlie  better  class  Ijuild  small  cabins  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mines,  where 
they  can  obtain  ground  free  of  cost,  and  live  comfortably  and  economically. 
This  is  especially  the  case  Avhere  they  have  families  to  superintend  their  domestic 
affairs.  Some  of  them  have  thrifty  little  gardens,  and  raise  all  the  vegetables 
they  require. 

Contrast  this  with  the  wages  paid  at  Freiburg,  in  Saxony,  where  the  miners 
have  as  much  as  they  can  do  to  procure  the  necessary  means  of  subsistence,  leav- 
ing nothing  for  the  future.  Ordinary  miners  receive  per  shift  of  eight  hours  8f 
silver  groschen,  (about  22  cents,)  equal  to  $1  32  per  week.  Many  boys  are 
employed  about  the  reduction  works ;  they  earn  1^  to  5  silver  groschen  for  eight 
hours'  labor,  equal  to  3^  to  11^  cents  per  shift,  or  21  cents  to  G9  cents  per  week. 
The  prices  of  labor  in  the  Harz  and  in  Hungary  and  Bohemia  are  nearly  the 
same.  It  would  be  difficult  to  make  a  comparison  of  the  cost  of  living  in  those 
countries  as  compared  with  expenses  in  the  States  and  Territories  of  the  Pacific 
slope.  If  similar  articles  of  subsistence  had  to  be  purchased  in  Europe,  the 
miners  there  could  not  earn  enough  to  pay  for  their  food  alone.  « They  do  not 
live  in  the  same  expensive  way,  and  consequently  it  costs  them  a  much  smaller 
amount;  but  the  miner  in  Nevada  who  receives  $4  per  day,  or  $24  per  Aveek, 
and  pays  $10  per  week  board,  has  $14  left,  while  the  Saxon  or  Harz  miner,  if 
it  cost  him  nothing  at  all  to  live,  would  have  but  $1  32  as  the  gross  result  of 
his  labor.  The  difference  in  other  necessar}^  expenses,  such  as  clothing,  &c., 
bears  about  the  same  relation  to  wages  in  Nevada,  contrasted  with  wages  in 
Em-ope,  as  expenses  of  living. 

I  am  indebted  to  Mr.  R.  W.  Raymond,  editor  of  the  American  Journal  of 
of  Mining,  for  the  following  particulars  in  reference  to  wages  paid  to  miners  in 
Great  Britain.  At  the  date  of  his  letter  Mr.  Raymond  was  in  Boston,  and  not 
■within  reach  of  all  the  sources  of  information  familiar  to  him.  It  is  proper, 
therefore,  that  the  data  herewith  submitted  should  be  accompanied  by  his  expla- 
nation.    He  \\Tites  imder  date  of  October  30,  1867  : 

Cut  off  from  my  private  library,  and  prevented  by  circumstances  from  making  thorough 
research  in  any  of  the  public  libraries  of  Boston,  I  cannot  give  j'ou  as  full  data  as  I  would 
like  concerning  the  wages  paid  in  England  at  the  present  time  to  miners  and  mining  engi- 
neers ;  but  I  jot  down  a  few  statistics,  hastily  arranged,  on  which  you  may  depend  as  both 
modern  and  accurate.  If  you  would  pursue  your  inquiries  further,  consult  "  Mineral  Statis- 
tics of  the  United  Kingdom,"  Robert  Hunt,  F.  R.  S.,  1865;  reports  of  the  committee  of  the 
House  of  Commons  on  mines  and  of  the  commissioners  on  mines  (parliamentary  blue-books, 
both  1666;)  London  Mining  Journal  and  Colliery  Guardian,  1 865, 1866, 1867.  The  Berg- 
und-hiattenmanische  Zeitung  for  ]8(>5,  1866,  and  1867  contains  a  series  of  admirable  accounts 
of  coal-miuing  in  England,  with  some  particulars  as  to  wages.  This  I  have  used,  but  the 
others  are  at  present  not  at  hand;  and  I  have  only  a  few  notes  from  Levi's  "  Wages  of  the 
Working  Classes,"  London,  1867  ;  his  authorities  are  Hunt  and  the  parliamentary  reports. 
Miners  are  not  uncommonly  paid  (as,  for  instance,  the  tributors  of  Cornwall)  according  to 
the  amount  and  quality  of  ore  extracted  and  its  market  price  at  the  time;  so  that  they  some- 
times make  large  profits  and  sometimes  none  at  all.  In  the  following  table  I  have  arranged 
the  wages  per  week  as  well  as  I  could : 


Locality. 


Cornwall 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

North  of  England  - 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Wales 

Newcastle 


Do. 


Clas3. 


Metal 

....do 

...do 

Dressing  works . 

...do 

Iron 

Dressing  works . 

Furnaces 

....do 

Metal 

...do 

Coal 


.do. 


Shifts. 


Tributors 

Tut-workmen 

Surface 

Women 

Children  

Miners 

Separators 

Smelters 

Roasters  

Miners 

...(^O 

Con.^alting  engineer  for  ten 

or  twelve  mines. 
First  manager  of  each  mine. 


Wages  per 
week. 


£ 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
8-10 


8.  d. 

20  0 

18  0 

14  0 

6  0 

2  C 

22  0 

18  0 

20  0 


15    0 
00    0 


00    0 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 
Table  of  wages,  Sfc. — Continued. 


009 


Locality. 


Xewcastle 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do ~ 

Do 

Do 

Do 

South  Yorkshire 

Scotland 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Average  of  England 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Average  England  and  Wales. 

Do 

Do 

Do    

United  Kingdom 


Do. 
Do. 
Do. 


Mines. 


Coal 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

Metal 

Coal 

Metallurgical  works 

...do 

...do 

...do. 

Iron   furnaces,  roll- 
ing mills,  &c. 

...do , 

...do 

...do , 


ClaBB. 


Second  inanager  each  mine, 

Overmen  each  mine 

Deputy  over-men  each  mine, 

Miners 

Tuunellers 

Engiuediivers 

Ilorse-keepers .• 

Boys 

Sliuers 

.--.do  

Surface  day  laborers 

Superintendent 

Second  BUi)erintendent 

Men  over  'JO  j-ears 

Boys  under  20  years 

Men  over  20  years 

Boys  under  20  years 

Men 

Boys 

Women 

Girls 

Men 


Boys  . . . 
Women 
Girls... 


Shifts.  I    Wages  per 
week. 


12  j 

8  ! 


s.  d. 

8  0 

35  0 

28  0 

40  0 

33  0 

26  0 

16  0 

8  0 

24  0 

24  0 
16  0 
28  0 

25  0 
23  0 

7  0 

22  0 

6  0 

2.5  0 


10  0 

8  0 

5  0 

0  20-40  0 
0 

0        12  0 

0        10  0 

0  6  0 


I 


N.  15. — The  iiverajres  given,  especially  in  the  case  of  metallurgical  woik.s,  are  made  up  of 
widely  differing  wages,  according  to  rank  and  .skill  of  workmen.  The  foregoing  table,  liow- 
ever,  gives  a  good  notion  of  the  condition  of  the  miners  and  .smelters  as  a  class.  It  will  be 
seen  that  coal-miners  (under  contract)  often  earn  more  than  the  salaries  of  over-men,  deputy 
managers,  «fec.     This  is  paralleled  in  Pennsylvania. 

The  following'  valiuil)le  iiiforniation  in  reference  to  the  cost  of  living  in  the 
principal  iron  districts  of  Eno-land  is  furnished  to  the  Chicago  Tribune  by  its 
London  correspondent,  under  date  of  May  15,  18G7.  After  a  detailed  statement 
of  the  rates  of  A\ages,  the  writer  says : 

Rcfening  to  the  social  condition  of  the  workmen  earning  tlie  wages  indicated  in  the  fore- 
going i|uotatious,  I  proceed  to  give  the  prices  of  the  connnon  articles  of  consumption, 
because  man's  position  must  be  estimated  by  a  comparison  between  liis  earnings  and  the 
amount  which  lie  must  of  necessity  expend  in  order  to  support  himself  and  family.  The 
cost  ol  living  is  not  quite  uniform  throughout  the  country,  but  in  no  district  is  it  higher  than 
in  the  one  selected  for  illustration. 

Rkt.^il  I'RICKS. — Flour,  2s.  8d.  per  14  pounds,  or  £1  12s.  4d.  per  barrel ;  butter,  Is.  to 
Is.  2(1.  |)cr  pound;  cheese,  Sd.  to  lOrf.  per  pound;  bacon,  7d,  to  iUl.  per  pound;  beef,  7rf. 
to  M.  per  pound;  mutton,  GUI.  to  Shi.  per  pound;  pork,  Grf.  to  7rf.  jier  pound;  sugar,  id. 
to  5d.  ]H'r  pound  ;  tea,  2s.  Gd.  to  Ws.  ])er  pound  ;  coffee,  Is.  2d.  to  Is.  4^/.  per  pound ;  milk, 
Hrf.  to  l.s-  per  gallon;  ale.  Is.  to  2s.  per  gaUon  ;  whiskey,  15s.  per  gallon ;  brandy,  KJs.  tu2Us. 
per  gallon:  gin,  Ills,  to  12s.  per  gallon:  gray  cotton  cloth,  'M.  to  Ghd.  per  yard  ;  white  cot- 
ton doih,  Aid.  to^^hl.  per  yard  ;  loom  Dowlas,  7^^/.  to  l()|rf.  per  yard  ;  white  tlminel.  Is.  to 
Is.  Gd.  jier  yard  ;  blue  flannel,  Is.  to  Gs.  per  yard;  colored  flannel,  Is.  to  2s.  per  yard  ;  prints, 
aid.  to  f^ht.  per  yard ;  French  merino.  Is,  Gd.  to  3s.  per  yard;  (Joburgs,  Gid.  to  Is.  2d.  per 
yard;  Windsey,  (i-irf.  to  Is.  \)d.  per  yard;  Linsey,  Gid.  to  lOM.  per  yard;  pilot  cloth,  4s. 
Gd.  to  Hs.  Gd.  per  yard  ;  doeskins,  2s.  Gd.  to  .'is.  per  yard  ;  moleskin.  Is.  Gd.  to 3s.  per  yard;, 
corduroys,  Is.  G(/.  to  3s.  per  yard  ;  regattas.  Gd.  to  ird.  per  yard  ;  men's  worsted  hose,  'Sid. 
to  Is.  id.  per  ])air;  women's  cotton  hose,  l^d.  to  Is.  jier  pair;  bed-ticking,  S^d.  to  Is.  10'/. 
lier  yard  ;  blankets,  8s.  to  25s.  per  pair ;  cotton  sheets,  2s.  Gd.  to  Gs,  per  yard  ;  counterpanes, 
'4s.  to  Gs.  each. 

Rt:Ai)V-M.\DE  Clotminc — Men's  black  cloth  coats,  17s.  Gd.  to  30s.;  men's  bJack  cloth 
vests,  4s.  Gd.  to  9s.  Gd.  ;  men's  doeskin  trowsers.  Ids.  to  l>-'s.  Gd.  ;  men's  coafs,  nii.xed  goods, 
15s.  to  2.5s.  ;  men's  trowsers,  mi.ved  goods,  7s.  Gd.  to  IGs.  Gd.  •  men's  cord  and  moleskin  trow- 
sers, (is.  Gd.  to  t^s.  G//.  ;  men's  white  duck  trowsers,  2s.  Gd.  to  4s.  ()d.  ;  men's  conluroy  and 
moleskin  vests,  4s.  to  4s.  Gd. ;  men's  corduroy  and  moleskin  jackets,  t^s.  Gd. :  nun's  blue 
pilot-cloth  jackets,  9s.  to  14s. ;  men's  heavy  flainud  jackets,  5s.  to  ds.  Grf. ;  men's  wliite  duck 
jackets,  2s.  4rf.  to  3s. ;  boots,  12s.  to  14s.  per  pair;  tobacco,  4s.  per  pound. 

39 


610  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

House  rent  varies  from  2s.  6d.  to  4s.  6rf.  per  week.  Coals  of  ordinary  qualit_y  ranpe  from 
10s.  to  12s  per  ton.  Rates  and  taxes  will  be  from  10s.  to  15s.  per  year.  In  many  cases  the 
houses  have  small  gardens  attached,  and  the  occupiers  keep  a  pig.  School  fees  are  generally 
not  more  than  2d.  or  '3d.  per  head  per  week.  A  few  pence  per  week  secures  the  benefit  of 
relief  in  sickness  and  ifiedical  attendance. 

The  iron  trade  is  particularly  an  industry  which  is  conducted  on  the  piece-work  and  con- 
tract system.  The  masters  let  the  different  classes  of  work  to  contractors,  who  employ  the 
requisite  number  of  hands  under  them,  and,  as  a  matter  of  course,  get  the  labor  done  as 
cheaply  as  possible,  in  order  that  the  margin  of  protit  may  be  the  greater  for  themselves. 
Hence,  although  the  prices  paid  by  any  two  masters  may  be  nearly  identical  throughout;  the 
mills  and  forges,  it  by  no  means  follows  that  the  net  earnings  of  the  contractors  under  each 
firm  will  be  identical.  Boys  are  employed  in  the  lighter  kinds  of  work,  such  as  door  draw- 
ing and  dragging  out  iron  from  rolls,  but  there  are  very  few  employed  under  12  years  of  age. 

The  same  writer  adds  : 

It  has  been  said  that  the  English  manufacturers  live  by  pauper  laborers,  which  implies 
that  the  operatives  are  paid  starvation  prices — barely  enough,  under  the  most  favorable  con- 
ditions, to  enable  them  to  live,  and  that  when  a  depression  in  trade  occurs  the  workiueu  are 
thrown  upon  the  union.  This  is  a  gross  misrepresentation.  Any  one  who  would  take  the 
trouble  to  make  a  close  acquaintance  with  the  social  condition  and  habits  of  the  workmen  in 
any  of  the  principal  seats  of  English  manufixcture — iron,  cotton,  woollen,  or  earthenware — 
would  find  that,  as  a  rule,  work  is  only  carried  on  five  days  a  week  ;  that  the  operatives 
have  a  keen  appreciation  of  and  an  ability  to  purchase  the  good  things  of  this  life  ;  that  they 
are  enthusiastic  pleasure  seekers,  and  are  lavish  in  their  expenses  in  holiday  times  ;  that  the 
more  provident  are  able  to  invest  large  sums  in  building  societies,  post  office  savings  banks, 
and  the  like;  that  many  of  the  men  live  in  their  own  houses,  and  a  greater  number  have  very 
respectable  and  well-furnished  hoases.  Unfortunately,  higli  wages  too  frequently  begets 
extreme  indulgence  and  improvidence,  and  there  are  many  dark  spots  in  the  social  life  of  any 
district;  but  this  is  the  fault  of  the  individuals  themselves,  and  were  they  willing  they  might 
speedily  improve  their  circumstances. 

Wages  Generally  and  Demand  fok  Labok. — The  following  is  a  copy 
of  an  address  Irom  the  Mechanics'  State  Council  of  California  to  the  mechanics 
of  the  United  States  and  Europe  : 

A  copy  of  a  circular  is  in  our  possession,  which  we  are  informed  is  being  distributed 
throughout  the  Atlantic  States  and  Europe  by  the  authority  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamslii[) 
Company,  which  bears  upon  one  side  of  a  half  sheet  the  advertisement  of  that  company's 
California  line,  and  on  the  other  what  piu'ports  to  be  a  correct  list  of  the  wages  paid  for  the 
various  classes  of  labor  in  this  city  and  State.  This  list  is  accredited  to  the  Alta  Californian, 
the  organ  of  the  capitalists  and  monopolists  of  this  coast,  and  which  has  ever  been  the  enemy 
of  labor  and  labor  interests.  It  was  published  for  the  purpose  t>f  inducing  an  undue  immi- 
gration to  this  State,  especially  of  mechanics,  expecting  by  that  means  to  break  down  the 
trade  associations  in  existence  hero,  particularly  those  which  have  adopted  the  eight-hour 
system.  This,  too,  is  one  of  the  objects  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company  in  repub- 
lishing it  in  the  mar.ner  they  have.  They  have  threatened  to  bring  large  numbers  of 
mechanics  here,  let  it  cost  what  it  may. 

They  have  already  brought  from  40  to  CO  here  under  contracts  to  work  out  their  passage 
after  their  arrival.  The  conditions  of  these  contracts  are  all  in  favor  of  the  company,  they 
not  having  bound  themselves  to  give  the  men  work  except  at  pleasure.  Some  of  those  who 
came  here  under  these  contracts  are  now  out  of  employment,  and  have  demanded  that  they 
be  employed  or  that  a  return  ticket  be  furnished  them,  both  of  which  demands  wererelused. 
A  breach  of  the  peace  was  the  consequence,  in  which  the  agents  of  the  company  were  the 
victors.  It  is  a  fact  well  known  to  the  agents  of  the  various  steamship  lines  having  vessels 
miming  to  and  from  this  port,  that  there  is  already  an  excess  of  workmen  in  all  the  ship-work- 
ing trades  here,  and  has  been  for  years.  They  know,  too,  that  in  cpnsequence  of  this  excess 
the  workmen  are  idle  nearly,  jf  not  (juite,  one-half  of  their  time.  They  know,  too,  that  the 
sum  of  $9  per  day,  (iiu)ted  as  the  wages  paid  to  caulkers,  is  not,  nor  has  it  ever  been,  this 
current  wages  here  for  ten  years  past;  and  that  ^ilf)  per  day  for  Sunday's  work  was  never 
paid  but  in  a  single  instance.  Both  these  prices  were  paid  by  a  steamship  company  to  obtain 
men  to  prepare  a  ship  for  .'■ea,  on  one  occasion,  two  years  ago — the  men  working  extra  hours 
to  get  her  ready  to  sail  as  atlvertised.  The  shipwrights,  ship-joiners,  caulkers,  bricklayers, 
stonecutters,  and  soiiw  one  or  two  other  trade  associations,  regulate  wages  and  have  uniform 
rates.  In  other  branches  each  journeynum  contracts  for  himself.  "  The  Mechanics' Stat« 
Council,"  a  central  organization,  conqtosed  of  delegates  from  the  various  trade  associations, 
have  appointed  a  committee  to  ascertain  and  report  to  them,  among  other  things,  the  rate 
of  wages  paid  to  journeymen  in  all  branches,  with  the  average  amount  of  time  employed 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    JIOUNTAINS. 


611 


dnrinfr  the  year.     This  committee  have  not  yet  completed  their  reports,  but  thoy  have  fur- 
nished us  the  following^  statistics  concerniiif^  some  of  the  principal  trades  : 


Trades. 


Sbipwrightti 

Sliip-joinere 

OaulkiTs 

Hoiiso  carpenters 

riiiiiters 

Bricklayers 

riasterors  

•Stono-cutters 

Biucksmiihs 

Boiler-makers  . . . 


Highest  wages 
per  day. 


Average. 

$3  81 

i 

2  7') 

2  511 

2  23 

2  75 

2  50 

3  00 

3  25 

2  5.) 

1 

TriKlos. 


Plurabers 

Ga<-tittprs 

Muchi-.'.isis  . 

\VooJ-u;riiijr^  . 
ScroU-SiUvvcrs 

Stevedores" 

Kifrpors 

Latlier^ 

Putteni-makers 
JloulJers 


Highest  wages 
per  day. 


$3  00  to  4  00 
3  Oi:  to  4  OJ 

2  50  to  4  00 

3  00  to  4  00 

3  .50  to  4  00 
5  OJ 

4  00 
3  00 

3  50  to  4  00 

4  00 


Average. 


2  li) 

2  75 

3  00 
2  50 
2  53 
2  .50 
2  00 
2  50 
2  50 


These  figures  were  obtained  by  con-ulting  the  members  of  the  various  trades,  and  can  be 
relied  upon  as  correct.  We  are  led  to  believe  that  an  organization  consisting  of  I'U  or  40  of 
our  citizens,  and  known  as  the  "Immigrant  Aid  Association,"  is  aiding  in  the  dissemination 
ot  statements  which  are  calculated  to  deceive  the  unwary.  Therefore  we  say  to  all,  receive 
any  statements  relating  to  the  rate  of  wages,  the  chance  and  prospects  for  obtaining  good 
aralde  lands  near  the  market,  or  to  there  being  a  demand  for  skilled  labor  here,  with  many 
grains  of  allowance.  They  are  but  an  ignis  fdlinis,  intended  to  allure  you  here  to  accom- 
plish some  private  purpose  of  individuals  or  monopolies.  Times  are  dull  here  in  many 
trades,  and  they  cannot  be  expected  to  improve  while  the  rainy  season  hists.  Insome  trades 
the  approach  of  wet  weather  tends  to  improve  business;  among  these  are  the  metal  rool'ers, 
asphalium  workers,  and  shoemakers.  For  the  first  time  in  the  history  of  this  city,  relief 
committees  to  provide  for  the  necessities  of  the  members  of  several  of  the  trades  have 
been  formed,  and  hundreds  of  dollars  have  been  collected  and  disbiu-sed  for  this  jmrpose. 
Let  no  one  come  here  without  the  means  of  support  in  case  they  fail  in  getting  employment. 
To  mechanics,  of  all  trades,  we  s.ay,  if  you  come  here  with  good  feeling  toward  your  fel- 
lows, with  the  intention  of  working  haild  in  hand  with  us  in  support  of  the  interests  of  the 
working  classes,  we  will  extend  j'ou  the  right  hand  of  fellowship  and  welcome  you  as 
brothers.  But  do  not  come  here,  as  some  have  already  done,  in  the  interest  of  capital,  tu 
assist  ill  crushing  the  labor  interest  of  this  coast.  Auy  information  regarding  any  trade  can 
be  obtained  by  addressing  the  "Mechanics'  State  Council,"  box  No.  14i)3,  SanFraudsco,  or 
to  either  of  the  undersigned  at  the  same  post-office. 

By  order  of  the  Mechanics'  State  Council  of  California,  San  Francisco. 

H.  J.  LOASSE, 
A.  M.  GREY, 
CHAS.  C.  PERRILL, 

Corrcspandinif  Coiinnittcc. 

San  Francisco,  November  25,  18G7. 

Commenting  upon  tlie  address  above  quoted,  the  Alta  Ciililornia  says : 

The  document  is  a  very  singular  one,  and  seems  to  have  excited  a  good  deal  of  surprise  at 
the  east,  where  it  did  more  to  open  the  eyes  of  workingmen  to  the  gross  folly  and  injustice 
of  Trades  Unions  seeking  to  monopolize  employments  in  a  few  hands  at  high  wages  than 
almost  any  argument  could  liave  done.  There  are  thousands  of  industrious  workingmen  at 
the  east  and  in  Europe,  who  at  this  time  are  unable  to  obtain  work  at  all.  Those  who  can 
get  employment  receive  .^1  50  to  Ig-i  in  greenbacks— say  $> I  to  $J  50  (and  average  for  the 
year  -SI  for  ten  hours'  work)  in  gold.  Flour  is  .§10  gold  per  barrel,  and  other  provisions  and 
expenses  of  living  in  proportion.  Those  people  struggling  for  life  have  put  into  their  liands 
ihe  address  to  which  we  called  attention.  • 

That  address  informs  them,  on  the  authority  of  the  State  council,  that  wages  in  20  mechan- 
ical branches,  wliicli  it  enumerates,  average  ^--l  55  iti  gold  throughout  tiie  year  for  eight  hours' 
woik.  They  know  that  tlour  and  provisions  here  are  cheapiu-  than  there,  since  they  are 
sent  hence  at  a  profit.  They  know  while  the  price  of  fuel  there  has  risen,  tis  the  thermometer 
falls  to  zero,  to  rates  which  absorb  (iieir  whole  earnings,  that  this  climate  nearly  dispenses 
with  that  expense.  They  know  that  the  amount  of  labor  to  be  done  here  in  developing  th<! 
natural  wealth  of  the  coast  is  limitless,  and  that  the  more  there  is  done  the  more  capital 
will  increase  to  employ  still  more.  They  know  tilso  that  passages  tire  so  low  now  that  the 
•  transit  may  be  made  tor  the  wages  of  two  weeks'  labor  here.  Three  weeks  will  transport 
them  from  cold  and  idleness  and  hilnger  to  wtirtntli,  abundance,  and  high  wages.  Having 
tt  lively  sense  of  these  truths  impressed  upon  them  by  the  circumstances  of  distress  which 
surrounds  them,  they  reflect  upon  the  true  import  of  passaf^es  like  the  following  in  "the 
address:" 

"  It  (rates  of  wages)  was  published  for  tiie  purpose  of  inducing  an  undue  immigration  to 
this  State,  especially  of  mechanics,  expecting  by  that  means  to  break  down  the  trade  asso- 
eiations  in  existence  here,  particularly  those  which  have  adopted  the  eight-hour  system." 


G12  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

"The  shipwrig'bts,  ship-joiners,  caulkers, bricklayers,  stone-cutters,  and  some  one  or  two 
otlicr  trade  associations,  regulate  wages,  and  have  uniform  rates.  In  other  branches  each 
journeymen  contracts  for  himself" 

"Let  no  one  come  here  without  the  means  of  support,  in  case  they  fail  in  getting  employ- 
ment. To  mechanics  ef  all  trades,  we  say,  if  you  come  here  with  good  feeling  toward  your 
fellows,  with  the  intention  of  working  hand  in  hand  with  us  in  support  of  the  interests  of 
the  working  classes,  we  will  extend  you  the  right  hand  of  fellowship,  and  welcome  you 
as  brothers.  But  do  not  come  here,  as  some  have  already  done,  in  the  interest  of  capital,  to 
assist  in  crushing  the  labor  interest  of  this  coast." 

These  contain  the  whole  programme.  The  rates  of  wages  are  so  high  here  that  very 
little  work  can  be  done  locally,  none  that  can  be  possibly  avoided.  This  is  seen  in  the  fact 
that  imports  of  goods  made  elsewhere  increase  enormously.  The  evidence  of  this  is  in  the 
returns  of  duties,  which  for  the  first  two  months  of  this  year  were  $1,419,089,  against 
$1,181,427  last  year,  an  increase  of  25  per  cent.  This  increase  of  importations  has  taken 
place  since  the  eight-hour  law  was  insisted  upon,  and  as  a  consequence  the  address  states: 

"Times  are  dull  here  in  many  trades.  *  *  *  »  Yov  the  first  time  in  the  history  of 
this  city,  relief  committees  to  provide  for  the  necessities  of  the  members  of  several  of  the  trades 
have  been  formed,  and  hundreds  of  dollars  have  been  collected  and  disbursed  for  this  pui'- 
pose." 

The  stranger  may  ask,  if,  as  the  address  asserts,  wages  are  $2  50,  gold,  per  day,  how  is  it  that 
so  many  persons  are  to  be  relieved  ?  Why  will  they  not  take  less  rather  than  turn  paupers  ?  The 
paragraphs  cited  give  the  reply.  The  trades  unions  "  regulate  wages,"  and  sutfer  no  work  to 
be  done  but  at  their  prices.  If  those  are  so  high  that  employers  are  compelled  to  import  the  goods 
instead  of  making  them,  and  discharge  the  hands,  those  still  in  employ  are  assessed  to  give 
charity  to  those  discharged.  So  arrogant  are  these  unions,  that  not  long  since  many  scores  of 
men  in  one  shop  struck  work  because  a  boy  had  used  a  hammer  for  a  short  time  upon  some  work. 
What  is  called  "  undue  immigration,"  is  the  arrival  of  any  person  not  a  member  of  the  union, 
who  seeks  work  for  any  employer  who  will  pay  him.  The  right  of  a  man  in  possession  of 
capital  to  employ  a  man  to  do  some  work  for  him,  without  asking  permission  of  the  union,  is 
utterly  denied.  Also,  the  right  of  a  man  to  work  for  wages  withoitt  the  sanction  of  "the 
coitncil"  is  sought  to  be  abolished.  Hence  the  address  says,  if  they  come  here  to  obej'  the 
council,  "come,"  and  get  work  if  yoitcan,  but  not.otherwise.  The  covert  threat  contained 
in  the  advice  not  to  come  "in  the  interests  of  capital"  may  be  taken  for  what  it  is  worth. 
This  sort  of  "dictatorship"  in  a  country  where  slavery  was  supposed  to  be  abolished  is  a 
marvel.  The  extent  to  which  this  system  may  be  pushed  is  made  painfully  manifest  in  the 
horrors  brought  to  light  in  England  through  investigation  into  operations  of  trades  unions. 
Happily,  here  we  may  rely-on  the  good  sense  of  the  people  at  large,  who  understand  that 
the  true  interests  of  this  coast  can  be  served  onl}^  by  carrying  out  the  principles  of  our  insti- 
tutions, which  guarantee  freedom  to  every  man  in  the  "  pursuit  of  happiness." 

When  the  eastern  mechanics  see  that  a  close  monopoly  of  unions  here  enjoying  $2  50, 
gold,  per  man,  for  10  hours'  work,  not  being  satisfied  with  that,  reduced  the  hours  to  eight, 
thus  increasing  the  actual  wages  paid  by  employers  to  $3  10,  gold,  and  then  coolly  notify 
'■  the  mechanics  of  the  United  States  an,d  Europe  "  not  to  come  here  and  disturb  their  "  good 
thing,"  it  is  possible  they  may  consider  their  equal  rights  under  the  law  as  good  as  those  of 
"  the  council,"  and  conclude  that  if  capital  enable  them  to  earn  even  $2  per  day,  gold,  here 
instead  of  §;]  at  home,  then  the  "interests  of  capital"  are  worth  considering. 

An  analysis  of  the  data  contained  in  tlie  preceding  pages  of  this  report  will 
sliow  the  following  results  : 

1.  Tliat  the  area  of  territory  west  of  the  Eocky  mountains,  abounding  in  the 
precious  metals,  and  in  the  useful  minerals,  is  limited  only  by  the  geographical 
boundaries  of  om'  possessions. 

2.  That  of  the  vast  number  of  valuable  mineral-bearing  lodes  known  to  exist 
in  our  I'acilic  States  and  Territories,  but  an  iniintesinuil  proportion  is  in  actual 
process  of  development.  • 

3.  That  the  area  of  lands  suitable  for  cultivation  is  sufficient  to  support  a 
population  greater  than  the  total  j)resent  population  of  the  United  States. 

4.  That  with  a  clinuite  so  salid)rious,  and  resources  so  varied,  this  region 
offers  inducements  to  immigration  unsurpassed  by  any  otlier  j^art  of  the  world. 

Tlie  following  table  shows  the  area  and  population  of  each  State  and  Terri- 
tory, tlu;  ntmiber  of  miners  actually  at  \\ork  in  t,he  mines,  and  the  product  of 
bullion  for  1SG7.  In  estimating  the  population  engaged  in  mining,  it  is  difficult 
to  lix  upon  an  exact  limit.  ]\Iechanics  who  make  the  machinery,  or  put  it  up  in 
the  mines  ;  teamsters  who  haul  the  ores  or  the  supplies  ;  assayers,  metalurgists, 
and  other  incidental  experts  and  employes,  are  to  a  certain  extent  engaged  in 
the  business  of  mining.     Many  thousands  who  never  see  a  mine  derive  their.    I 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


61, 


support  from  this  interest.  If  we  ii'o  boyond  tlio  siiporintcndents,  exports  juid 
i>per;itiv('s  tlirei-tly  enpii^^ed  in  workino-  the  mines,  the  liehl  is  unlimited,  for  it 
may  be  said  the  whoU'  popnhition  on  the  Pacidc  coast  is  interested  directly  or 
indirectly  in  thi.s  j)ursuit  : 

Area,  j^opulation,  and  product. 


State 


and  tprritorios  west  of  the 
Kocky  luoimtaiu!). 


California 

Nevada 

Arizona 

Utah 

Montana 

Idaho 

Washington  Territory. 
Oregon 


Area — square 
miles.* 


188,981 
11-J,  OSW 
li:),  910 
88,  OoG 
143,  776 
90,  9.'i-:2 
C9,  994 
95,  'J74 


Total. 


903,  019 


120,947,840 
71,737,741 
7-J.  9()(;,  304 
;")(),  3.W,  G2o 
92,  010,  640 
58,196,480 
44,  790,  100 
CO,  975, 360 


Kstiinatedpop- 
ulation  in '67. 


577,  933, 160 


488,  0(X) 
36,  000 
3,  000 

110,000 
32,  000 
20,  000 
13,  000 
78,  000 


No.  of  men  ac- 
tually work- 
ing in  iiiiueg. 


780,  000 


25,  000 

10,  000 

500 

200 

8,000 

0,  000 
1,300 

1,  000 


Add  for  total  product  of  the  United  States  ; 


New  Mexico 

Colorado 

All  other  sources. 


52,  000 


$500,  000 
2, 500,  000 
5, 000,  OUO 


Produetofgold 
and  silver  for 
the  year  end- 
ing Dec.31,'C7 


$25,  000,  000 

21),  0(10,  000 

5U0,  000 

i2,  000,' 000 
(),  500,  000 

1 ,  000,  000 

2,  000,  000 


67,  000,  000 


8,  000,  000 


75, 000,  000 


*  According  to  report  of  Commissioner  of  the  General  Land  office. 

The  above  table  sho^vs  that  with  an  area  of  903,019  square  miles  we  have  a 
population  of  only  780,000,  less  than  one  to  the  square  mile.  According-  to  the 
eighth  census  (ISGO)  the  New  England  States  have  49.55;  the  middle  States 
09.80  ;  the  soutlun-n  coast  States  15.25 ;  the  western  central  States  20.93  ;  the 
northwestern  States  22.14;  Texas  2.55.  Mr.  De  Bow,  in  his  compendium  of 
the  seventh  census,  gives  the  density  of  population  in  Europe  and  other  foreign 
countries  as  follows:  Ru.ssia  in  Europe  28.44;  Austria  141.88;  France  172.74; 
England  332.00;  Great  Britain  and  Ireland  225.19;  Prussia  151.32;  Spain 
78.03;  Turkev  in  Europe  73.60;  Sweden  and  Norway  15.83  ;  Bel«>-ium  388.60; 
Portugal  95.14;  Holland  259.31;  Denmark  101.92;  Switzerland  160.05; 
Greece  55.70;  Mexico  7.37;  Central  America  10.07,  &;c. 

It  will  be  seen  that  while  the  population  in  the  Pacific  States  and  Ter- 
ritories is  less  than  one  to  the  stpiare  mile,  some  of  the  countries  of  Europe 
exceed  300,  as,  for  example,  England  332.00  ;  Belgium  388.60.  This  simple 
statement  shows  conclusively  the  great  desideratum  of  the  Pacific  c(jast.  We 
have  climate  and  natural  resources  equal  to  those  of  the  Atlantic  States  and 
superior  to  any  in  Eurfijie  ;  we  have  land  enough  for  the  support  of  millions  of 
laborers  where  we  now  liave  only  thousands.  We  want  population.  Chea]) 
labor  will  develop  the  donnant  wealth  of  the  country.  To  insure  this  W'e  need 
the  speedy  completion  of  the  Central  Pacific  railroad,  and  the  promjtt  construc- 
tion of  the  two  additional  lines  projected  across  our  continent,  one  north  and  the 
other  south.  It  is  absurd  to  say,  with  such  a  variety  of  undeveloped  resources 
as  we  possess,  that  employment  is  difllcult  to  obtain,  and  no  demand  exists 
for  labor.  If  we  require  ik)  labor,  there  can  be  no  demand  for  population  ;  and 
if  we  need  no  increase  of  population,  then  all  progress  must  be  considered  pre- 
judicial to  the  interests  of  the  country.  •  The  Commercial  Herald  and  Market 
lleview,  of  San  Francisco,  judiciously  remarks  : 

The  recent  numerous  arrivals  of  immigrants  from  the  east  and  from  Australia  foreshadow 
the  great  rush  which  will  undoubtedly  be  made  in  this  direction  during  the  current  3'ear,  and 
it  is  eminently  proper  that  these  strangers  should  be  instructed  by  competent  parties  how  to 


614  EESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TEREITOEIES 

employ  themselves  with  profit.  An  army  of  consumers,  who  are  non-prodncers,  cannot  loner 
exist  in  that  condition  without  means,  and  in  this  case  our  visitors  are  not  overburdened 
with  cash.  They  cannot  all  find  occupation  in  farming  ;  nor  are  our  manufactories  sufiti- 
ciently  extensive  to  accommodate  any  large  number  of  them  ;  but  our  placer  mines  are  far 
from  being  exhausted,'  and  still  offer  a  lucrative  field  for  the  operations  of  industrious  and 
sober  men.  The  cost  of  living'  has  been  reduced  three  or  four  hundred  per  cent,  since  185'2, 
and,  although  the  placer  mines  do  not  yield  so  richly  as  at  that  period  and  before,  they  are 
still  capable  of  returning  better  wages  to  the  industrious  miner  than  he  can  obtain  in  any 
other  State  of  the  Union.  Formerly  five  dollars,  or  even  seven  dollars,  a  day  would  not  pay 
a  man  for  his  time  and  labor,  because  the  rates  of  living  were  too  high;  and  many  fields 
were  abandoned  which  are  still  capable  of  yielding  those  daily  returns.  Now,  a  sober, 
economical,  and  industrious  miner  can  support  himself  handsomely  and  save  money  ou  ^2 
per  day. 

The  heavy  floods  of  last  vrinter  have  probably  unearthed  much  wealth  in  our  gulches  and 
other  placer  diggings.  The  copious  rains  of  186l-'62  certainly  had  that  effect,  and  new  dis- 
coveries of  a  rich  character  wen^  made  at  that  period.  Opportunities  for  reaching  the  mines 
are  now  plentiful  where  none  formerly  existed.  Mining  tools  are  abundant  and  cheap  iu 
comparison  with  the  prices  ruling  10  or  12  years  ago.  It  is  then  our  earnest  advice  to 
those  newly  arrived  immigrants  to  furnish  themselves  with  picks,  hoes,  and  shovels,  without 
delay  ;  take  the  earliest  opportunity  to  leave  the  city  and  seek  the  placer  diggings  ;  go  to 
work  with  will  and  determination  ;  stick  to  it  with  resolution,  and  but  few  years  will  elapse 
before  they  will  thank  us  for  the  advice,  and  congratulate  themselves  for  having  acted  upon 
it.  The  longer  they  remain  "  waiting  for  something  to  turn  up,"  the  deeper  will  they  sink 
into  the  sloug  h  of  despondency,  and  the  less  heart  will  they  have  for  resolute  and  determined 
action.  Our  placer  mines  still  offer  a  remunerative  field  for  industry.  Theyarenot  "worked 
out,"  nor  impoverished  to  an  extent  that  will  not  pay  wages  to  the  miner.  Many  of  them 
will  yield  from  $2  to  $4  a  day  to  the  hand.  Of  this  there  is  no  doubt,  and  if  newly  arrived 
immigrants  with  limited  means  will  only  accept  the  offers  held  out  by  these  mines,  they  will 
do  wisely. 

On  tlie  same  subject  the  San  Francisco  Evening  Bulletin  makes  the  following' 
timely  and  sensible  remarks  : 

Immigration  in  1849  and  1868. — The  pioneer  immigrants  of  20  years  ago  endured  hard- 
ships of  which  the  immigrants  of  this  year  will  know  very  little.  The  six  months'  voyage 
around  Cape  Horn  in  crowded  ships,  badly  provisioned,  or  the  bungalow  passage  up  the 
Chagres  river,  and  the  mule  ride  into  Panama,  with  the  long  waiting  on  the  Isthmus,  or  tho 
still  longer  overland  journey — these  are  experiences  of  which  the  modern  immigrant  will 
know  little  or  nothing.  The  men  of  '49  found  nothing  which  could  be  called  homes.  A 
sand  spit,  with  a  few  board  and  cloth  houses,  gave  little  promise  of  the  future  city.  Every 
article  of  food  or  clothing  was  enormously  high.  It  cost  nearly  as  much  to  reach  the  mines 
from  this  place  as  the  immigrant  is  now  charged  for  a  passage  from  Southampton  to  this 
port  The  Senator,  a  year  later,  transj)orted  passengers  from  this  city  to  Sacramento  at  rates 
varying  from  $oO  to  $3.')  each,  and  on  reaching  the  latter  place  the  rough  and  costly  journey 
was  but  just  begun.  If  the  miner  was  successful,  his  gains  would  secure  very  few  com- 
forts, for  they  were  not  iu  the  country.  If  he  iell  sick,  the  misfortune  was  aggravated  by 
exposure  and  the  absence  of  all  the  comforts  and  appliances  which  increased  the  chances  of 
recovery.  There  were  both  suffering  and  heroism,  and  as  brave  struggles  with  an  adverse  fate 
»;  was  ever  known  in  the  history  of  any  country. 

The  immigrants  of  18()S  will  assume  no  silch  risks  as  did  these  pioneers.  They  will  come 
to  a  country  alread}'  dotted  over  with  homes,  even  more  attractive  than  those  of  earlier  days. 
There  are  cities,  towns,  schools,  churches,  highways,  vineyards,  orchards,  and  farms,  Avhile 
the  cost  of  living  has  been  reduced  below  the  prevailing  rates  iu  many  of  tho  Atlantic  States. 
And  with  all  these  advantages  t.lie  chances  of  success  in  any  industrial  calling  have  hardly 
been  rtHluced  at  all.  Wages  are  not  so  high,  but  the  cost  of  living  has  been  cheapened 
more  than  the  cost  of  labor.  The  advantages  of  permanent  prosperity,  upon  the  whole, 
appear  to  be  upon  the  side  of  the  immigrant  of  18(58.  It  is  a  more  auspicious  time  to  begin 
the  struggle  for  a  foolhold  and  for  a  competence  than  it  was  20  years  ago.  The  i'ow  great 
oppoitunities  for  sudden  fortunes  may  not  be  so  apparent,  neither  are  the  risks  of  failure  so 
great. 

No  doubt,  iiiiiuigrants  who  land  here  during  the  present  year  without  money  will  suffer 
many  hardships  and  privations.  Some  will  belong  to  the  great  army  of  incapables,  others 
will  suffer  from  diseases  incident  to  changes  of  country  and  climate.  Many  will  come  with 
more  hope  than  resources,  either  of  capital  or  muscle.  But  the  immigrants  of  the  present 
year  are  not  likely  to  incur  greater  risks  of  privation  than  will  those  who  land  at  New  York. 
Of  the  ;"(),()(10,  more  or  less,  who  may  come«to  the  State  during  the  present  year,  probably 
one-half  will  come  from  the  States  east  of  the  mountains.  A  large  number  of  them  have 
friends  here,  by  whose  .idvico  or  through  whose  information  they  exchange  an  old  home  for 
a  new  one.  This  element  of  incoming  population  will  need  very  little  help.  Very  few  of 
them  will  want  charity  soups  or  free  lodgings.  With  a  little  margin  of  ready  cash  they  will 
strike  out  for  themselves  and  help  to  make  their  own  opportunities.     The  immigration  from 


WEST    OF    Till-:    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  615 

European  coiintnes  will  bo  more  lijjoly  to  iiood  aiil'  The  country  will  be  now  and  stran<xe 
to  tlu-iii.  niui  lliiMV  will  not  always  be  that  ready  adaptation  to  the  exijifencies  of  new  posi- 
tions. Taliint;'  the  most  favorable  view  of  this  iucomin<f  poimlation,  it  will  still  bo  true  that 
a  {rood  work  eau  be  done  in  alleviating  incidental  cases  of  distress  and  in  prcventinpr  others, 
by  furnishings  to  the  iuuni<rrant  without  cost  such  iutbrmation  as  will  insure  liis  employment 
with  the  least  possible  delay. 

TIk'  Sticranieiito  Union,  in  an  article  advocating'  tlioovi^anization  of  a  proposoil 
''  labor  exchange,"  makes  the  foUowing"  jndicious  sngge^itions  : 

How  TO  AID  Immigrants. — A  preliminary  meeting  was  held  at  the  Merchants'  Exchange 
in  San  Francisco,  on  Tuesday  evening,  to  organize  a  "labor  exchange,"  or  a  society  to 
devise  means  for  securing  employment  and  present  subsistence  for  needy  immigrants  arriv- 
ing in  that  city.  The  idea  is  an  excellent  one  and  well  timed.  The  society  should  be  organ- 
ized without  delay,  and  we  hope  to  see  it  embrace  a  large  number  of  the  best  men  and  most 
practical  minds  in  the  State.     ******* 

Many  will  arrive  penniless.  Nearly  all  will  be  landed  at  San  Francisco.  Without  some 
means  they  cannot  leave  there  for  any  part  of  the  State  w-here  the  market  for  labor  calls 
them.  It  will  be  necessary  that  the  city  shall  take  present  care  of  the  needy.  Alms-houses 
are  not  to  be  thought  of  in  this  connection.  The  desideratum  can  only  be  reached  through 
a  societj'  having  the  hearty  patronage  of  every  business  department  and  the  iise  of  large 
sums  of  money  to  feed  the  immigrants  and  forward  them  to  employment  in  the  interior. 
Such  a  societj'  ought  to  embrace  members  of  the  large  corporations  of  the  State — railway 
companies,  steam  navigation  company,  the  chamber  of  commerce,  the  supervisors,  and  the 
mayor  of  San  Francisco.  It  could,  with  such  a  make-up,  very  soon  enlist  the  good  offices 
of  the  press,  and  the  accord  of  the  people  of  the  interior.  These  immigrants  are  coming 
here  because  we  have  repeatedly  given  out  that  they  are  greatly  needed,  and  that  we  have 
an  abundance  of  work  for  them.  These  inducements  were  held  out  in  good  faith.  We  do 
need  them,  we  have  work  tor  them.  But  it  is  sure  to  liappen  here,  as  everywhere  else  that 
any  extraordinary  influx  of  population  will  occasion  some  distress.  How  to  get  along  with 
the  least  distress  is  the  problem  to  be  solved.  We  would  suggest  that  the  San  Francisco 
"  labor  exchange"  organize  at  once,  and  enlist  in  its  ranks  as  many  of  the  practical  busi- 
ness men  of  that  city  as  possible.  Let  them  then  put  the  societ}'  in  communication  with  the 
leading  business  men  of  the  interior,  who  are  posted  as  to  the  probable  demand  fur  fresh 
laborers  in  their  respective  districts.  The  seversil  railway  superintendents  could  tell  them 
within  a  score  or  two  how  many  they  can  employ  each  month,  and  how  many  to  forward. 
The  immigrants  might  be  forwarded  at  the  expense  of  the  society,  who  could  arrange  in  a 
business  way  to  be  repaid  by  the  interior  eaiployers  from  the  tirst  month's  wages  earned.  The 
great  grain  shippers  of  San  Francisco  have  then-  purchasing  and  forwarding  agents  in  every 
grain  region  of  the  State.  These  are,  no  doubt,  well  posted  as  to  the  increased  number  of 
bauds  the  present  crop  will  require  in  harvesting.  Let  the  society  put  itself  in  direct  coni- 
nmnication  with  these  agents,  and  here  will  be  an  opening  for  hardly  less  than  10,000  men  at 
from  §50  to  $00  per  mouth  for  not  less  than  two  or  three  months.  By  the  same  general 
system  other  thousands  might  be  employed  in  the  timber  and  lumber  regions,  and  in  the 
considerable  improvements  that  will  be  made  this  season  in  all  the  towns  and  cities  of  the 
agricultural  districts.  It  is  not  probable  that  more  than  a  third  of  the  new-comers  will 
require  any  other  aid  than  such  valuable  information  as  a  society  so  organized  might  be  able 
to  give  as  to  the  best  means  of  reaching  this,  that,  or  another  point  in  the  interior,  the  qual- 
ity of  its  soil,  climate,  price  of  land,  atlvantages  of  cultivating  and  means  of  marketing  pro- 
duce. Doubtless  many  who  come  will  have  the  ready  means  to  go  to  work  for  themselves 
and  become  employers  of  others  who  are  destitute.  Of  the  50,000  who  may  bo  expected, 
JO, 000  to  15,001)  are  likely  to  need  more  substantial  aid  to  start  them  off  iu  a  way  to  earn  a 
subsistence.  There  is  room  for  all  and  more  than  these  on  the  railways  in  course  of  con- 
struction and  ingathering  a  harvest  nearly  twice  as  gr«it  iu  area  as  auy  ever  before  planted 
in  the  State, 


SECTION     II. 

GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS  ON  THE  PRECIOUS  METALS. 

Why  Gold  and  Silver  are  used  for  Money. — Gold  and  silver  were 
adopted  as  standards  of  value  long  before  the  beginning  of  the  historical  era; 
and  their  fitness  for  money  was  evident  even  to  barl)arians.  They  are  hard  and 
not  sul>jcct  to  oxidation,  and  therefore  they  can  be  kept  and  handled  with  com- 
paratively little  loss.  Tlicy  have  a  brilliant  lustre  suitable  Ibr  articles  of  onia- 
mcnt ;  and  the  peculiarity  of  the  lustre,  color,  and  high  specilic  gravity  renders 


616  EESOUECES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

tliem  easily  distinguishable  from  diher  substances,  and  makes  imitations  diffi- 
cult. They  are  fusible  and  malleable,  so  that  they  can  be  made  into  any  Ibnn 
or  stamped  with  an}^  impression,  and  the  hardness  will  protect  the  fonn  or  impres- 
sion from  wearing  out.  Both  metals  are  found  pure,  so  that  savages  would 
become  accustomed  to  their  use  before  learning  to  smelt  the  ores  of  iron,  copper, 
and  lead.  Both  metals  are  rare,  and  thus  a  small  quantity  has  served  to  repre- 
sent a  large  value  of  other  articles;  and  wealth  in  the  form  of  gold  and  silver 
could  readily  be  concealed,  or  transported  from  one  country  to  another.  There 
are  other  hard,  rare,  and  lustrous  metals,  but  they  cannot  readily  be  refined,  or 
their  lustre  is  not  peculiar,  or  the  supply  is  not  regular,  or  they  have  no  recog- 
nized value  in  the  arts ;  and  thus  gold  and  silver  are  to-day,  as  they  were  5,000 
years  ago,  the  best  of  all  metals  for  the  purposes  of  money. 

The  Quantity  of  the  Precious  Metals  iisr  Greece  and  Rome. — The 
quantity  of  precious  metals  was  small  when  Athens  began  to  throw  the  bril- 
liancy of  her  intelligence  and  genius  over  the  ancient  world.  About  the  year 
600,  B.  C,  nine  bushels  of  w^heat  could  be  bought  for  an  ounce  of  silver  in 
Greece ;  or,  in  other  words,  a  bushel  of  wheat  cost  15  cents  of  our  money. 
The  advance  of  civilization  was  accompanied  by  an  increased  pj*oduction  of  gold 
and  silver.  There  were  mines  of  both  metals  in  Egypt,  Thrace,  Armenia,  Spain, 
and  the  dominions  of  Attica.  Spain  had  the  richest  mines,  and  the  placers  in 
the  Asturias  produced  S4,000,000  annually  for  a  time,  and  a  silver  mine  at  Guadal- 
canal yielded  300  pounds  of  metal  daily.  The  spoils  of  Persia  added  greatly 
to  the  stock  of  the  precious  metals  in  Greece,  and  after  the  death  of  Alexander 
an  ounce  of  silver  would  buy  only  three  bushels  of  wheat,  or  only  one-third  as 
much  as  three  centuries  earlier. 

In  Italy,  previous  to  the  first  Punic  war,  gold  and  silver  were  still  very  scarce 
and  high  in  price,  but  when  'Uhe  senate  and  people  of  Rome"  became  masters 
of  the  world,  Avealth  poured  in  upon  them  fiom  all  the  borders  of  the  Mediterra- 
nean, and  the  bushel  of  wheat  which  cost  the  twentieth  of  an  ounce  of  silver 
350  B.  C.  cost  an  ounce  and  a  third  in  the  middle  of  the  first  century. 

The  annual  revenue  of  the  empire  in  the  time  of  Augustus  was  6200,000,000, 
and  that  emperor  received  $150,000,000  in  legacies  from  his  friends. 

Cicero  received  $800,000  in  fees,  a  sum  which  has  probably  never  been  paid 
to  any  modem  law^'er. 

C.  C.  Isidorus,  besides  large  estates  and  4,000  slaves,  had  $15,000,000  coin 
at  the  time  of  his  death,  calculating  the  value  of  the  money  according  to  weight. 
Jacobs  estimates  the  total  stock  of  coin  in  the  Roman  empire  in  40  A.  D.  at 
$1,' 50,000,000. 

The  Principal  Epochs  in  the  Modern  Production  of  the  Precious 
Metals. — As  civilization  declined,  the  quantity  of  the  ])recious  metals  decreased, 
and  Alaric  consented  to  spare  Rome  for  $1,500,000,  and  40  years  later  the  Eter- 
nal City  had  some  difliculty  in  raising  $1,200,000  to  Iniy  oft"  Attila.  The  annual 
average  wear  of  coin  is  estimated  at  about  one  i)art  in  3G0 ;  and  when  this  con- 
tinues for  centuries  with  no  new  supjdy  it  makes  a  great  reduction.  According 
to  the  estimate  of  Jacobs  there  were  in  1492  only  $170,000,000  of  the  precious 
metals  in  Christendom.  Previous  to  the  conquest  of  Mexico  the  new  world 
yielded  only  about  a  quarter  of  a  million  dollars  annually  to  Spain,  the  govern- 
ment of  winch  lost  considerably  by  the  discovery,  until  Cortes  succeeded  in 
overthrowing  the  empire  of  the  Montezumas. 

The  Aztecs  washed  gold  from  the  placers  and  smelted  silver  from  the  ores, 
and  had  a  considerable  stock  of  precious  metals  on  hand  when  Cortes  came.  He 
of  course  took  all  he  could  get,  and  he  and  his  associates  soon  commenced  the 
working  of  the  lodes  known  to  his  subjects.  Among  these  were  Tasco,  Zulte- 
pec,  Tlalpujahua,  and  Pachuca,  all  in  the  vicinity  of  the  capital.  The  annual 
shipment  to  Spain  from  1519  to  1545  was  $3,150,000.  In  the  latter  year  the 
mines  of  Potosi  were  discovered,  and  their  yield  was  so  great  for  that  age  that 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  617 

a  wonderful  iiinmlsc  was  yiven  to  miniui^  imlustiy  tliroiiifliout  the  now  world. 
In  l.')48  Zacatooas  began  to  produce  its  treasiu'es ;  Sonibreretc  in  15o5,  and 
Guauajuato  in  IC>58.  hi  ir>57  a  miner  named  Bartolome  do  jMedina,  working 
I'aeluica,  made  a  discovery  that  was  more  important  to  silver  mining  than  even 
the  opening  of  Potosi.  lie  found  that  silver  could  be  extracted  I'wnn  the  com- 
mon ores  by  mixing  the  pulverized  mineral  with  water,  salt,  and  <',o[)per  j)yrites, 
and  it  was  a  i)rocess  that  required  very  little  water,  no  fuel,  little  machiueiy,  no 
mechanical  skill,  and  few  buildings.  It  was  a  method  of  reduction  })eculiarly 
adajited  to  the  treeless  and  waterless  mountains,  and  to  the  ignorant  mining  popu- 
lation of  ]\[exico  and  Pern.  Previously  all  the  silver  had  been  obtained  by 
smelting,  in  a  very  expensive  and  wasteful  manner,  the  furnaces  being  small  and 
very  numerous ;  so  that  it  was  impossible  to  prevent  great  loss,  both  by  incom- 
petency and  by  dishonesty. 

Some  years  elapsed  before  the  amalgamation  process  was  extensively  adopted, 
but  within  10  years  it  had  been  introduced  into  all  the  mining  districts  of  Span- 
ish America  ;  and  the  workmen  became  expert,  and  as  the  mine-owners  found 
the  separation  of  the  metal  on  a  large  scale  could  be  supervised  by  one  or  two 
men,  and  that  thus  waste  and  thieving  could  be  prevented  to  a  much  greater 
extent  than  l)efore,  they  made  renewed  exertions  to  extend  their  works.  The 
production  of  Potosi  was  six  times  as  great  in  1585  as  it  had  been  12  years 
before,  owing  partly  to  the  general  use  of  amalgamation,  which  was  first  intro- 
duced there  in  1570,  and  was  not  generally  accepted  until  some  yeais  later.  The 
copper-pan  or  cazo  amalgamation  was  discovered  in  1590,  at  Potosi,  by  Alonzo 
Barba,  but  its  use  was  confined  to  a  few  districts.  It  was  during  the  last  decen- 
nium  of  the  16th  century  that  Potosi  was  in  its  most  prosperous  condition,  pro- 
ducing $7,500,000  per  annum. 

In  1630  the  mines  of  Cerro  Pasco  were  discovered. 

In  the  years  1726  and  1727  the  Vizcaina  and  Jacal  mines  of  Zacatecas  yielded 
$4,500,000. 

The  great  bonanza  of  Real  del  Monte  was  opened  in  1762,  yielding  815,000,000 
in  22  years. 

Tlie  great  wealth  of  the  Veta  Madre  was  demonstrated  in  1768,  and  Guana- 
juato rose  almost  to  the  leading  ])osition  among  the  argentiferous  districts. 

The  production  of  silver  in  Mexico  increasccl  very  rapidly  from  1770  until  the 
beginning  of  the  revolution  ;  and  the  increase  was  owing  to  various  causes, 
including  the  reduction  of  the  royal  tax  from  20  to  10  per  cent,  on  the  gross 
yield,  the  reduction  in  the  price  of  quicksilver,  the  opening  of  commerce  to  Spain, 
merchant  vessels  fnjm  numerous  ports  instead'  of  confining  the  trade  to  vessels 
from  only  two  ports,  the  reduction  of  the  price  of  blasting  powder  from  75  to  50 
cents  i)er  pound,  the  abolition  of  the  alcabala,  an  article  needed  at  the  mines,  (an 
odious  and  oppressive  tax  on  internal  trade,)  and  the  purchase  of  bars  by  the 
provincial  treasury.  The  fact  that  the  country  could  produce  $10,000,000  annu- 
ally from  1760  to  1770,  as  it  did,  in  spite  of  all  these  restrictions,  furnishes  con- 
clusive jtroof  of  the  wonderful  wealth  ttf  the  mines,  and  also  of  the  industry  of 
the  i)eople.  A  tax  of  20  \)0v  cent,  on  the  gross  yield  would  paralyze  every 
branch  of  British  and  American  mining,  and  w.)uld  entirely  stop  the  production 
of  the  precious  metals  in  man}'  districts  of  California  and  Australia.  Quicksil- 
ver, of  which  more  than  a  pound  was  lost  for  every  pound  of  silver  extracted, 
cost  80  cents  per  pound  in  1750,  and  was  reduced  in  1767  to  62  cents,  and  in 
]  777  to  41  cents.  The  jjurchase  of  bars  by  the  proviacial  treasuries  was  of  gr(>at 
l>enelit  to  the  miners,  who  previously  had  to  sell  their  bullion  at  a  loss  of  20,  30, 
or  in  remote  districts  even  40  per  cent.  There  were  few  merchants,  and  those 
few  expected  to  make  great  profits  from  their  transactions. 

The  mines  of  Hualgayo  in  Peru  were  found  in  1771,  and  three  years  later 
the  placers  of  the  Ural,  which  were  known  in  the  time  of  Herodotus,  were  redis- 
covered. 


618  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

It  was  estimated  in  1777  that  two-fifths  of  tlie  silver  of  ^Icxico  was  ohtaiiied 
hy  smelting',  but  tliis  was  probably  an  exaggeration,  and  when  Humboldt  was 
in  the  country  only  one-seventh  was  taken  out  by  means  of  fire. 

The  mines  of  Catorce  were  opened  in  177S,  and  proved  to  be  very  rich,  the 
mine  of  Padre  Flores  yielding  $1,600,000  the  first  year. 

The  mines  of  Guarisamey,  near  Durango,  became  productive  in  17S3. 

For  two  centuries  the  pulp  in  the  yard  amalgamation  process,  made  with  pul- 
verized ore,  quicksilver,  "ealt,  pyrites,  and  water,  was  mixed  liy  the  treading  of 
men,  who,  notwithstanding  the  cold,  moisture,  and  mercury,  were  generally 
healthy. 

Singular  as  it  may  seem,  it  was  not  till  1783  that  mules  and  horses  were  intro- 
duced to  this  work  ;  and,  although  the  change  saved  75  per  cent,  of  the  expense 
on  that  branch  of  the  working,  still  it  would  probably  not  have  been  adopted  when 
it  was,  but  for  the  greatly  increased  production  of  silver  in  Mexico,  and  the 
difficult}'  of  getting  Indian  rrpasadorcs  in  some  districts. 

The  great  bonanza  of  Ramos,  that  yielded  $18,000,000  in  nine  years,  was 
opened  in  1798. 

The  mines  of  Mexico  continued  to  increase  in  productiveness  until  the  revolu- 
tion, wliich  was  a  war  of  races,  the  Mexicans  against  the  Spaniards,  the  latter 
being  in  a  small  minority,  but  possessing  most  of  the  wealth,  mining  and  com- 
mercial kno^vledge  and  enterprise  in  the  country.  They  were  driven  out,  and 
with  them  went  three-fourths  of  the  men  who  had  the  money  and  brains  to  con- 
duct large  mining  operations.  The  production  fell  from  $22,000,000  to  less  than 
one-third  that  amount,  but  it  soon  began  to  increase  again,  and  fi"om  1850  to 
1860  it  was  as  large  as  from  1795  to  1805. 

When  the  independence  of  Mexico  was  recognized  and  peace  was  restored,  it 
was  expected  that  the  production  would  soon  rise  far  beyond  its  former  figure. 
The  most  brilliant  hopes  w'ere  excited  in  England,  and  they  Avere  based  on 
many  plausible  considerations,  but  they  were  destined  to  bitter  disappointment. 

Many  of  the  best  mines  were  offered  for  sale  for  about  the  amount  which  they 
produced  aumially.  They  had  been  well  opened  ;  their  vahie  had  been  proved; 
the\'had  l)een  abandoned  while  in  full  production,  with  large  bodies  of  rich  ore 
in  sight ;  some  of  them  had  not  suffered  much  by  standing  idle ;  their  produc- 
tion had  l)een  increased  at  the  average  rate  of  three  per  cent,  annually  for  40 
years  l)el'ore  the  revolution,  and  the  workmen  familiar  with  all  the  processes 
of  mining  and  reduction  Avere  still  numerous.  And  if  such  ])roduction  and 
increase  occuired  under  the  oppressive  policy  of  the  Spanish  government,  and 
under  the  ignorant  management  of  the  Spanish  mine  owners,  what  might  not 
be  expected  under  a  liberal  republic  and  English  engineering  f  The  mines 
would  no  longer  be  burdened  witli  the  payment  of  one-tcutli  of  the  gross  yield, 
over  and  above  all  the  costs  of  refining  and  coining.  The  ore  would  no  longer 
be  carried  up  to  the  surface  from  depths  of  1,500  or  2,000  feet  on  the  backs  of 
Indians,  nor  would  it  be  packed  6,  10,  or  20  miles  on  mules  to  the  reduction 
works,  nor  woidd  the  water  be  hoisted  up  in  raw-hide  buckets  b\'  horse  whims, 
nor  would  mules  and  horses  drive  the  arrastras  and  stamps.  Steam  would  i)unip 
the  water,  lu)ist  tlie  ore,  and  drive  tlie  pulverizing  machinery.  Wagons  uould 
do  the  transportation.  Skilful  engineers  would  direct  the  cutting  of  adits,  shafts, 
and  working  levels,  and  educated  metallurgists  would  have  charge  of  the  amal- 
gamation. 'The  production  should  rise  to  §50,000,000  or  S100,6'00,000  a  year, 
and  those  comjtanies  which  could  get  ])ossession  of  the  best  mines  should  make 
])rincely  fortunes  for  all  their  shareholders.  Great  care  should  be  exercised  in 
the  i>urchase  of  the  pro])erty  ;  only  those  mines  should  be  Itoiight  which  had  been 
vifiited  l)y  Humboldt  in  1803,  and  were  mentioned  in  his  book,  and  were  known 
to  have  continued  productive  up  to  the  revolution.  On  these  principles,  it  was 
supposed  that  failure  would  be  impossil)lc.  But  failure  was  possible,  and  it  came. 
England  during  the  silver  fever  spent  $50,000,000,  for  which  she  got  little  retm-u 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  G19 

Pfivc  tloar  experience.  IiulepeiideiK'o  did  iK^t  prove  a  <;'reat  l)lesj;in«;-  to  IMexico. 
I'eaee  never  oanie,  and  witliout  peaee  tlien>  could  Le  no  success,  lor  silver  mining' 
above  all  other  pursuits  demands  jieace.  Forced  loans  Avere  levied  by  the  gov- 
ernment on  the  productive  mines,  and  the  silver  bars  while  on  the  way  to  the 
coast  were  taken  by  hiii'hway  robbers.  The  steam  machinery  could  not  l»e  taken 
to  the  mines  till  roads  had  been  made  and  wagons  imported  ;  the  roads  cost 
immense  siuns;  when  the  eng'ines  were  in  place  native  engineers  could  not  be 
found,  and  foreign  engineers  were  nuirdered  ;  English  sujx'rintendents  and  3Iexi- 
(vin  miners  could  not  get  along  together;  the  mines  were  found  in  a  much  worse 
condition  than  that  in  which  they  were  at  the  time  of  sale  represented  to  be  ;  and 
in  a  few  years  the  mines  of  Mexico  were,  with  a  few  exceptions,  abandoned  to 
the  Mexicans. 

The  most  notable  mining  districts  opened  in  the  19th  century  have  been  the 
placer  district  of  San  Francisco  in  Sonora,  in  1803;  the  Melkowka  placers  in 
Siberia,  in  1816  ;  the  silver  district  of  Fresuillo,  in  1824;  the  silver  district  of 
Chanarcillo,  Chili,  in  1832;  the  silver  district  of  Guadalupe  y  Caloo,  in  1834; 
the  silver  district  of  Guadalcanal,  in  Spain,  about  1830  ;  the  placers  of  the  Altai 
mountains,  in  Siberia,  in  1830  ;  the  })lacers  of  the  Sacramento  basin,  in  1841'  ; 
the  j)lacers  of  Australia,  in  1851;  the  placers  of  New  Zealand,  in  1857;  the 
])lacers  of  British  Columbia,  in  1858;  the  placers  of  Colorado,  in  1859;  the  sil- 
ver district  of  Washoe,  in  1859;  the  Nevada  iron  pan  amalgamation,  in  1860; 
the  silver  and  gold  of  Idaho,  in  1861;  the  placers  of  ]\[ontana,  in  1862. 

Stock  of  Piiecious  Metals. — The  stock  of  coin  in  Christendom  in  1492, 
and  at  various  epochs  since,  may  be  thus  estimated : 

Stock  of  gold  and  silver  coin  in  Europe  in  1492 $170,000  000 

Prudiiction  of  108  years,  less  loss  by  wear $690, 000, 000 

I'sed  in  arts $140,  000, 000 

Sent  to  Asia 70,000,000 

iJeduc-tions 210,  000, 000 

Net  gain  from  1492  to  1600 480, 000, 000 

Stock  at  end  of  IGOO 650,000,000 

Production  of  the  XVIIth  century 1 ,  687, 000, 000 

Sent  to  Asia 165,000,000 

I'se.l  in  tlie  arts 1500, 000,  000 

A  l)rasion  and  loss U85,  000, 000 

1  leductions  for  the  XVIIth  century • 850,  000,  000 

Net  gain  of  the  XVIIth  century 8:}7, 000,  000 

Stock  at  end  of  1700 1,487,000,000 

Prodnction  of  the  XVIIIth  century 4,  000, 000, 000 

Sent  to  Asia 400,000,000 

Used  in  tlie  arts 800,000,000 

Wear  and  loss GOO,  000,  000 

Total  deductions  for  XVIIIth  century 1,800,000,000 

Net  gain  of  XVIIIth  century 2, 200,  000,  000 

Stock  at  end  of  1800 3,687,000,000 

Production  of  1st  quarter  XlXth  century 750, 000, 000 

Wearandloss 175,000,000 

Used  in  the  arts 200,000,000 

Sent  to  Asia 125,  000,  (H)0 

Deductions  for  1st  quarter  XlXth  century.. . 500,  000,  (lOO 

Net  gain  of  1st  quarter  XlXth  century 250. 000, 000 

Stock  at  end  of  1825 :i,  9;J7, 000, 000 

Production  2d  quarter  XlXth  centuiy ] ,  200,  000, 000 

Wearaud  loss 200,()()(),(I00 

Used  in  the  arts :!50,  (MKi,  000 

Sent  to  Asia 175,(100,000 

Deductions  2d  quarter  XlXth  century 725,  000, 000 

Net  gain  2d  quarter  XlXth  century .  .* 475, 000, 000 


^•^   OF  TF^ 


620  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

Stock  at  end  of  1850 $4, 412,  OOa,  000 

Production  from  1851  to  1866,  inclusive |l2, 500, 000, 000 

Wear  and  loss $250,000,000 

Used  in. the  arts _ 500,000,000 

Sent  to  Asia 800,000,000 

Total  deductions  for  16  years 1 ,  750,  000, 000 

Net  gain  from  1851  to  1866 750,000,000 

Stock  at  end  of  1866 - 5,162,000,000 

The  following  is  Jacobs's  estimate,  as  given  in  Vol.  11,  pp.  70,  131,  214, 
and  322: 

Stock  on  hand  in  1492 £34,000,000 

Production  1493-1599  over  loss  and  wear £138, 000, 000 

Used  in  the  arts £28,000,000 

Sent  to  Asia 14,  000, 000 

Total  deductions  1493-1599 42,000,000 

Net  gain  1493-1599. 96,000,000 

Stock  on  hand  at  the  end  of  1599 130,000,000 

Productions  of  X Vllth  century 337, 500, 000 

Sent  to  Asia 32,250,000 

Used  in  the  arts 60,250,  000 

Wear  and  loss 77,000,000 

Total  deduction  for  XVIIth  century 170, 500,  000 

Net  gain  of  XVIIth  century 167,000,000 

Stock  on  hand  at  the  end  of  1699 297,000,000 

Production  of  1700  to  1809 880,000,000 

Sent  to  Asia 352,000,000 

Used  in  the  arts 352,000,000 

Wearandloss 93,000,000 

Total  deductions  1700  to  1809 797,000,000 

Net  gain  from  1700  to  1809 83,000,000 

Stock  on  hand  at  end  of  1809 380,000,000 

Production  from  1810  to  1829 103,736,000 

Sent  to  Asia 40,000,000 

Used  in  the  arts 112,252,220 

Wearandloss 18,095,220 

Total  deductions  from  1810  to  1829 170,  343, 440 

Decrease  from  1810  to  1829 ; 06,611,440 


Stock  on  hand  at  end  of  1829 3 1 3,  388, 560 


It  lias  been  customary  to  make  estimates  of  the  amount  of  precious  metals  in 
Christendom  at  various  times  by  deducting  the  quantity  shipped  to  China  and 
Hindostan,  and  the  quantity  used  for  plate ;  but  there  is  a  constant  change  from 
coin  to  plate  and  from  plate  to  coin,  and  the  wide  line  which  once  separated  China 
and  Hindostan  from  European  trade  has  now  disappeared,  and  those  Asiatic 
countries  are  within  the  pale  of  civilizcnl  commerce,  and  are  almost  as  near  to 
London  and  New  York  as  California  and  Victoria. 

Whitney,  in  his  Metallic  We;ilth  of  the  United  States,  says  that  in  1853  the  Rus- 
sian (nnpire  produced  (54,000  pounds  Troy  of  gold;  Austria, 5,700;  the  remainder 
of  Europe,  100;  Southern  Asia,  25,000  ;  Africa,  4,000;  South  America,  34,000; 
and  the  United  States,  (exclusive  of  California,)  2,200. 

The  gold  production  of  Chili  in  1845  (the  statistics  for  later  years  not  l)eing 
obtainable  at  the  time)  was  2,850  jiounds  Troy;  of  Bolivia,  1,200;  of  Peru, 
1,900  ;  of  New  Grenada,  13,300  ;  of  Brazil,  5,100;  and  of  Mexico,  9,900. 

The  yield  of  silver  in  1850  is  thus  stated  : 

llussian  Empire,  60,000  pounds  Troy  ;  Scandinavia,  20,400 ;  Great  Britain, 
48,500;  Harz  Silver  District,  31,500  ;  Prussia,  21,200;  Saxony,  63,C00 ;  other 
German  states,  2,500  ;  Austria,  87,000  ;   Spain,  125,000  ;  Prance,  5,000  ;  Aus- 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


621 


tralia,  10,000  ;  Chili,  238,500  ;  Bolivia,  130,000  ;  Peru,  303,150  ;  New  Grenada, 
13,000;  Brazil,  675;  Mexico,  1,650,000 ;  California,  17,400;  total,  2,817,425 
poundti  Troy. 

TuE  Drain  of  Silver  to  Asia. — It  is  admitted  by  all  eminent  autliors 
m1k>  liave  written  al)out  the  present  supply  of  the  precious  metal  that  it  far 
exceeds  the  demands  of  Christendom,  and  that  the  inevitable  fall  in  value  is 
retarded  only  l)y  exceptional  and  temporary  circumstances,  tlie  chief  of  which  is 
tlie  remarkable  stream  of  silver  pouring-  into  Asia.  The  Ilindoos  and  Chinese 
and  Japanese  are  industrious  and  very  populous  nations,  which  have  to  import 
nearly  all  their  gold  and  silver  from  abroad,  and  their  cajjacity  to  absorb  those 
metals  increases  as  value  declines,  and  as  their  stock  becomes  greater  their  wages 
rise,  and  they  obtain  the  means  to  purchase  more  foreig'n  goods,  and  after  a  time 
they  will  have  as  much  coin  proportionately  to  their  productive  powers  as  the 
Christian  nations;  and  then  their  imports  of  merchandise  will  nearly  equal  their 
exports,  and  the  importation  of  the  precious  metals  will  not  be  one-tenth  of  the 
present  figiu'e. 

Asia  was  called  "the  sink  of  silver"  by  Pliny,  and  it  has  deserved  that  name 
ever  since,  and  will  continue  to  deserve  it  for  an  uncertain  period  in  the  future. 

So  long  as  we  continue  to  consume  so  much  tea,  silk,  sug'ar,  rice,  and  other 
Asiatic  products,  and  so  long  as  they  consume  so  few  of  our  products,  so  long  we 
must  settle  the  difference  by  payment  of  the  precious  metals,  and  the  precious 
metals  will  probably  not  decline  much  in  value.  But  let  the  vessel  of  Asiatic 
trade,  now  half  empty  of  silver,  be  once  filled,  as  it  will  be  in  5,  10,  or  15  years, 
and  then  we  shall  begin  to  feel  the  influence  of  the  over-supply  of  the  precious 
metals,  and  theii'  market  value  will  fall  rapidly. 

Christendom  and  Asia  may  be  compared  to  two  tubs  standing  side  by  side, 
and-  connected  by  a  large  o])en  tulje  half  way  from  the  ground,  and  the  supply 
of  the  precious  metals  to  a  stream  of  water  falling  into  the  tub  representing 
Christendom.  Before  the  Avater  reached  the  tube,  or  before  the  tube  was  well 
opened,  the  level  rose  very  rapidly  in  the  first  tub;  but  now  the  stream  pours  so 
swiftly  into  the  second  that  the  level  can  scarcely  rise  at  all  in  the  first.  When 
the  liquid  gets  up  to  the  same  level  in  both  tubs,  then  it  will  rise  with  equal 
])ace  in  both. 

The  quantity  of  silver  annually  exported  from  England  and  the  Mediten-anean 
to  Asia  has  been  as  follows: 


England. 


Mediterranean. 


1851 

1852 

1853 

1854 

1855 

1856 

1857 

1858 

1859 

18R0 

1861 

1862 

1863 

1864 

Total  in  fourteen  years 


$8, 362, 500 
12,  116,210 
23,  550, 000 
15, 555,  000 

32,  075, 000 
60, 590,  000 
86,  477,  170 
25,  444,  2.)0 

33,  298,  120 
40,621),  lb2 
30,399,  175 
53, 551, 045 
38,236  191 
37,079,  196 


$4, 240,  000 
7,  25.'),  000 
7,  020,  000 
9,  950,  000 
10,180,291 
16,  150,000 
7,  340,  280 
8, 120, 204 
7,  980,  000 

9.  ir>o,ooo 

29,381,000 
41,255,942 


503, 365, 035 


147, 522, 718 


$8, 302,  500 
12,110,210 
27,  790,  000 
22,  821,  000 

39.  695,  000 
70,  540.  000 
96,657,  461 
3l,.5!)'l,  250 

40,  638,  400 
48,  740,  386 
44,  379,  175 
61.701,  145 
67,517,191 
78,  335, 139 


050, 885, 753 


The  figures  from  1851  to  18(52.  inclusive,  in  the  above  table  are  copied  from  Hunt's  Mer- 
chants' Magazine  for  August,  1863,  and  those  for  18(53  aud  18(54  from  newspaper  reports. 

Michel  Chevalier  savs  that  in  1857  c£20,145,921  were  sent  to  Asia,  or  about 
$100,000,000.* 


Michel  Chevalier  on  Gold,  p.  65. 


622  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

The  Westminster  Review  for  Janunry,  1864,  says : 

In  spite  of  our  trouble  in  India,  and  a  state  of  chronic  warfare  in  China,  the  increase  of 
our  trade  with  the  east  during  the  hist  10  years  has  been  enormous.  This,  too,  may  be  looked 
upon  as  only  the  beginning  of  a  commerce  that  must  grow  to  proportions  which  cannot  be 
estimated.  The  most  fmportant  feature,  too,  of  eastern  trade  is  the  manner  in  which  it 
absorbs  the  precious  metals.  This  is  a  peculiarity  so  intimately  bound  up  with  the  social 
condition  of  the  east  that  it  is  likely  to  last  as  long  as  their  ignorance  and  mutual  mistrust. 
Until  a  sy.stem  of  credit  can  grow  up  among  them  like  that  which  in  Europe  dispenses  with 
the  use  of  gold  and  silver  for  almost  all  things  but  retail  transactions  and  the  payment  of 
labor,  the  east  must  ever  remain  a  perfect  sink  for  the  precious  metals.  What  amount  of 
money  would  be  sufficient  to  saturate  the  hoarding  propensities  of  these  hundreds  of  millions 
of  men  who  believe  in  nothing  but  the  little  store  they  know  of  under  some  hearthstone  or 
other  favorite  hiding  place  ?  There  is  no  practical  limit  to  the  demand  of  the  east  for  the 
precious  metals  except  the  industry  they  can  develop  in  its  acquisition,  and  that  industry  is 
susceptible  of  indefinite  development. 

This  passage  is  written  in  the  supposition  that  a  nation  possessing  an  immense 
quantity  of  the  precious  metals  in  proportion  to  population  could  be  a  nation  of 
hoarders.  This  idea,  however,  is  entirely  erroneous.  There  never  was,  nor  is 
it  probable  that  there  ever  will  be  a  wealthy  nation  of  hoarders.  With  the 
exce})ti()n  of  a  few  miserly  individuals,  hoarding  is  caused  only  by  the  lack  of 
opportuiiities  to  invest  profitably;  the  insecurity  of  titles  to  real  estate,  and  the 
dangers  of  famine  and  war.  .  Hoarding  is  far  more  frequent  relatively  in  semi- 
barbarous  than  in  civilized  communities ;  more  frequent  in  the  country  than  in 
cities.  As  wealth  increases,  as  education  extends,  as  wars  become  rare,  and  as 
the  titles  to  property  become  secure,  the  motives  for  hoarding  cease.  Hoarding 
is  no  doubt  common  now  in  Hindostan  and  China;  but  the  main  demand  there 
for  the  precious  metals  is  not  for  hoarding,  it  is  for  currency.  We  ship  treasure 
to  Asia  because,  on  account  of  the  greater  scarcity  of  the  precious  metals,  labor 
is  cheaper,  and  because  for  that  reason  tea,  cotton,  rice,  silk,  and  many  other 
articles  can  be  produced  cheaper  there  than  here,  and  we  find  it  more  pr()tital)le ' 
to  import  than  to  produce  at  home.  But  the  Hindoos  and  Chinese  having  far 
less  trad(^  and  manufactures  relatively  than  Europeans,  do  not  need  so  much 
coin  relatively,  and  the  increase  of  the  precious  metals  is  ten-fold  faster  among 
them  than  the  increase  of  business;  so  wages  must  rise,  and  their  products  must 
become  dearer,  and  our  gold  and  silver  will  have  less  relative  value  to  them,, 
and  other  of  our  productions  will  have  more  relative  value.  Then  our  interna- 
tional trade  will  be  more  of  exchange  than  now,  and  less  of  sale.  Asia  willd 
always  be  a  sink  "Df  the  jn'ecious  metals  in  so  far  as  immense  quantities  nuist  bel 
lost,  worn  away  and  used  in  the  arts  amidst  such  vast  multitudes  of  people,  anc" 
as  the  consunqjlion  is  great  and  the  yield  nothing,  there  must  be  a  steady 
■stream  pouring  in;  but  this  stream  after  the  level  of  industry  has  once  been| 
reached  will  be  mucli  smaller  relatively  than  now. 

The  countries  where  labor  is  dearest  must  export  treasure  to  those  where  it  isj 
cheaper,  and  the  quantity  of  treasure  that  a  nation  will  swallow  up  is  proporr 
tioned  to  its  industry  and  poverty. 

Another  late  writer  says  :  •: 

Regarding  the  amount  of  gold  and  silver  afloat  as  currency  in  the  various  countries  of  thoj 
civilized  world  there  are  very  conflicting  opinions,  but  estimating  the  amount  of  gold  audi 
silver  circulatiug  as  coin  in  Great  Britain,  the  country  in  which  perhaps  the  greatest  economy! 
of  the  precious  metals  consistent  with  the  maintenance  of  the  proper  safeguards  is  observed,! 
at  £8U,()0U,OU(),  and  the  population  at  30,0U0,UU(I,  and  estimating  the  currency  of  India  ini 
1857  at  an  equal  amount,   an  estimate  I  venture  to  think  high,  and  the  population  at] 
180,000,000,  it  requires  but  very  little  calculation  to  show  that  India  is  capable  of  yet  absorb-l 
Ing  silver  to  the  amount  of  $100,000,000  in  addition  to  this  amount  for  the  purposes  of  cur- 
rency alone.     Nor  must  it  be   forgotten  that  India  is  able  to  support  a  population  many| 
millions  more  numerous  than  she  at  present  possesses ;  nor  on  the  otherhand  that  England  has 
many  means  of  economizing  the  use  of  coin,  which  in  consequence  of  her  immense  extent  of 
area  will  be  denied  to  India,  if  not  forever,  lor  many  years  to  come.     If,  then,  it  be  admitted 
that  there  is  even  a  shadow  of  truth  in  these  estimates,  it  may  not  be  unreasonable  to  conclude 
that  there  is  a  possibility,  distant  it  may  be,  yet  still  a  possibility,  of  the  requirements  ot 
India  for  currency  purposes  approaching  the  enormous  sum  of  $500,000,000  in  silver  coin.* 

*  The  Drain  of  Silver  to  the  East  and  the  Currency  of  India,  by  W.  Nassau  Lees  :  Loudon,  1864. 


WEST    OF    THE    i:OCKY    MOUNTAINS.  G2D 

It  is  uyoless  Id  attcnijit  to  say  liow  imicli  currciicy  a  nation  may  use.  Tlio 
amount  (lopeiuls  ^Toatly  ui)ou  its  relative  value.  In  an  ai^o  when  a  clay':5  work 
is  worth  10  eents,  only  one-tenth  as  many  dollars  will  be  needed  lor  curreney, 
other  tliinji-s  being  eiiual,  as  in  an  age  when  a  day's  work  is  worth  a  dollar. 
"Wages  in  India  will  not  remain  at  their  present  low  rate,  and  their  rise  will,  in 
itself,  make  a  demand  for  money.  We  may  presume  that  an  addition  of 
$2,000,000,000  to  the  currency  of  Hindostan  would  raise  wages  there  to  the 
level  in  Europe,  and  after  that  importation  of  silver  would  be  onh'  sufficient  to 
compensate  for  the  wear  and  tear.  However,  long  before  that  amount  could 
be  added  to  the  cmrency  of  India,  the  Hindoos  would  demand  more  European 
goods  than  now,  and  these  would  pay  to  a  certain  extent  for  the  goods  exported 
from  India,  and  the  transfer  of  the  precious  metals  would  gradually  decline.  The 
larger  the  stock  of  money  relatively,  the  higher  the  wages,  and  we  may  expect 
that  when  the  sum  of  $4,000,000,000  is  added  to  the  currency  of  Asia,  the  wages 
then  will  be  as  high  there  as  they  now  are  in  Europe;  but  before  that  time  the 
wages  may  have  djoubled  in  Europe. 

A  Gkeat  Increase  of  Peoductiox  Probable. — A  gTcat  increase  in  the 
production  of  both  gold  and  silver  is  probable.  In  California,  Australia,  and 
Siberia,  gold  mining  is  now  conducted  under  many  disadvantages.  In  the  two 
former  wages  and  interest  are  exceptionally  high,  and  in  all  there  is  a  lack  of 
that  thorough  knowledge,  and  of  those  economical  moies  of  working,  which  can 
only  be  adopted  by  a  generation  educated  to  the  business,  and  devoted  to  it  as 
a  life-long  occupation.*  In  Spain  and  Brazil,  which  were  once  ver}'  rich  in 
gold,  and  would  probably  pay  for  hydraulic  washing,  there  must  be  numerous 
quartz  veins  that  are  now^  untouched. 

These  will  be  made  productive.  The  Andes  and  the  Altai  will  be  exploroil 
with  care,  and  hundreds  of  veins,  as  rich  and  large  as  those  of  Potosi  and  Ohtana- 
juato,  will  be  found.  Machinery  will  be  improved,  so  that  tunnels  or  adits  large 
enough  for  wagons  can  be  bored  20,  30,  or  40  miles  long  through  high  moun- 
tains, so  as  to  pay  for  purposes  of  travel,  and  at  the  same  time  any  lodes  that 
may  exist  in  the  chain  will  be  opened  to  a  depth  far  below  anything  now  known 
in  mining.  The  great  lodes  of  the  future  Avill  not  be  discovered  by  such  acci- 
dents as  those  which  revealed  Potosi,  CeiTO  Pasco,  Sombrcrete,  Chafiarcillo  and 
the  best  mines  of  Catorce.  If  veins  like  those  could  l)e  found  by  chance,  what 
will  not  the  well-directed  explorations  of  the  fitture  find?  It  is  scarcely  to  be 
doubted  that  a  large  tunnel  commenced  1,500  feet  above  the  sea  level  on  the 
western  slope  of  the  Sierra  Xevadas  at  any  point  between  latitiide  30°  and  40° 
would,  in  the  course  of  10  miles,  run  through  a  multitude  of  rich  lodes.  We 
have  reason  to  believe  that  Avhen  the  great  n\ountains  w'ere  formed,  numerous 
large  fissures  running  in  some  places  for  hundreds  of  miles  were  filled  with 
auriferous  and  argentiferous  quartz,  and  we  fail  to  find  them,  not  l)ecause  they 
are  not  there,  but  because  they  are  covered  with  earth,  and  because  the  claml)er- 
inghunter,  the  l^enighted  wanderer,  or  the  charcoal  burner  doesnot  i)ull  up  the  l)ush 
or  d<»es  not  light  the  fire  at  the  right  spot.  A  tunnel  running  through  the  ^Vndes 
commencing  near  Lima  or  Santiago  would  reveal  wonders,  and  the  })rogrcss 
of  mechanical  industry  is  so  man-ellous  that  we  are  justified  in  hoping,  if  not  in 
expecting,  to  sec  immense  tunnels  20  or  30  miles  long  cut  through  high  mountain 
I'anges. 

liELATivE  Value  of  Gold  and  Silver. — It  is  impossible  to  ascertain  now 
when  or  how  the  difference  arose  between  the  market  values  of  the  two  metals. f 

*  The  bill  introduced  by  Mr.  Stewart,  of  Nevada,  providing  for  the  establishment  cf  ii 
national  school  of  mines,  is  designed  to  remedy  the  present  wasteful  system  of  miuiujr. 

tMr.  Albeit  Gallatin,  in  a  letter  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  (Ex.  Doc,  1st  scss.  2Stli 
Cong  ,  p.  1071)  on  the  relative  value  of  gold  and  silver,  says,  under  date  of  Deccinbir  ;>J, 
1829 : 

"  The  relative  value  of  gold  and  silver  bullion  differs  from  that  of  gold  and  silver  coins, 


624 


RESOURCES    OP    STATES    AND   TERRITORIES 


It  may  be  said  that  tliey  are  almost  equally  suitable  for  the  purposes  of  money. 
Gold  has  a  higher  specific  gi'avity  and  is  susceptible  of  a  higher  polish,  but  the 
difference  in  these  respects  is  not  great  enough  to  cause  a  difference  of  50  per 
cent,  in  value  between  them.  There  is  reason  to  doubt  whether  the  relative 
values  were  ever  proportional  to  th(;  relative  supplies.  We  have  no  precise 
information  about  supplies  before  the  beginning  of  the  16th  century.  At  that 
time  an  ounce  of  gold  was  worth  11.4  ounces  of  silver.  In  the  course  of  three 
centuries  previous  to  1800  the  stoclc  of  the  precious  metals  in  Christendom  had 
increased  $5,800,000,000,  of  which  two-thirds  in  value  and  96  per  cent,  in  weight 
Avas  silver,-  so  that  if  the  value  of  the  two  metals  had  been  proportionate  to  the 
supply,  one  ounce  of  gold  ought  to  have  been  worth  30  of  silver  in  1800.  Not- 
withstanding the  immense  production  of  silver  in  the  18th  century,  the  relative 
value  of  the  two  metals  was  precisely  the  same  in  1816  as  in  1717;  and  not- 
withstanding the  vastly  greater  relative  production  of  gold  since  1849,  the  rela- 
tive values  have  scarcely  changed.  We  obsei-ve,  too,  that  although  gold  is  very 
scarce  in  India  and  Asia,  it  does  not  bear  so  high  a  price  as  in  Europe.  The 
mere  fact  that  gold  is  worth  15  times  as  much  per  pound  as  silver  makes  a  demand 
for  it,  because  it  is  so  much  more  convenient  for  use. 

Although  the  values  have  not  been  regulated  strictly  by  the  supplies,  it  is  cer- 
tain that  they  have  been  afl'ected  by  them.  In  consequence  of  a  great  increase 
in  the  supply  of  gold  during  the  life  of  Julius  Otesar,  an  ounce  from  being  worth 
17  ounces  of  silver  fell  to  be  worth  only  nine;*  and  in  the  last  300  years  gold 
has  risen,  relatively,  more  than  30  per  cent,  in  value.f 

Mr.  E.  B.  Elliott,  of  Washington  city,  has  kindly  furnished  the  following  data 
on  this  interesting  subject.  The  annextd  tabular  statement  has  been  prepared 
by  him  with  great  care,  and  differs  in  some  respects  fi-om  that  of  ttie  Merchants' 
Magazine : 

Ratios  of  the  market  values  of  gold  to  silver,  in  Londov,  for  the  70  years  from  1760  to  1829, 

inclusive,  and  the  2G  years  from  1841  to  1866,  inclusive — in  all,  96  years. 
1760  to  1789  (30  years)  ....14.50  to  1^ 
1790  to  1809  (20  years)  ....  14.  90  to  1  | 

1810  to  1819  (10  years) 15.  .50  to  I  !  Prior  to  the  opening  of  the  gold  mines  of  Californifi 

1820  to  1829  (10  years)  ....15.80  to  1  f  and  Australia. 

3830  to  1840  (11  years) \ 

1841  to  1848  (8  years) 15.83  to  I J 

and  is  liable  to  greater  fluctuations.  Independent  of  these,  there  are  two  reasons  which 
malie  gold  bullion  more  valuable  in  relation  to  silver  bullion  than  gold  in  relation  to  silver 
coins.  It  is  more  expensive  to  coin  ten  silver  dollars  than  one  gold  eagle,  which,  if  the 
charge  for  coining  is  the  same  for  both,  makes,  in  proportion,  the  silver  coin  more  valuable, 
and  tlie  unavoidable  difiercuce  between  the  legal  and  the  actual  standard  of  the  most  faithful 
coins,  as  well  as  the  similar  original  dift'erence  of  weight  and  the  diminution  arising  from 
wear,  are  more  sensible  and  greater  in  value  in  gold  than  in  silver  coins,  so  that  the  loss  in 
melting  the  current  gold  coins  of  any  country  may  be  fairly  estimated  at  one-half  per  cent." 

*  Chevalier,  page  1 18. 

t  Hunt's  Merchants'  Magazine  for  /Vugust,  1863,  contains  the  following  table,  showing  the 
relative  value  of  silver  to  gold  at  various  periods  hom  1344  to  1863,  as  shown  by  the  prices 
paid  by  the  mint  in  London : 

1344 1  to  12.  475 

1349 1  to  11.  141 

1356 ]  to  11.286 

1401 1  to  11.350 

1421 1  to  10.  527 

1464 1  to  10.331 

1465 1  to  11.983 

1470 1  to  11.446 

1482 1  to  11.429 

1509 1  to  11.400 

1527 1  to  11.455 

1543 1  to  12.000 

1545 1  to  10.714 

1546 1  to  10.000 


1547 1  to  11.400 

1549 1  to  11.250 

1552 1  to  11.186 

1553 1  to  11. 198 

1560 1  to  11.315 

16U0 1  to  11.100 

1604 1  to  12.  109 

1626 1  to  13.43J 

16(^)6 1  to  J  4. 485 

1717 1  to  1.^).209 

1816 1  to  1.5.209 

1849 1  to  15.632 

1852 1  to  15.371 

1863 1  to  15.  069 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 


625 


Discovorj'  of  gold  fields  in  California,  1S4S. 

1849  to  l!^52  (4  years) 15.  60  to  I — Transition  period. 

1H.53  to  1858  (6  years) 15.  34  to  n 

l."-59  to  1862  (4  years) 15.  31  to  1  1  Since  the  opening  of  California  and  Australian  gold 

18t)3  to  1864  (2  years) 15.  37  to  1  f  fields,  average  15.38  to  1. 

1865  to  1  S6(i  ( 2  years ) 1 5.  46  to  I J 

Simplest,  and  probably  most  convenient,  mint  ratio  of  gold  to  silver,  15  to  1 :  present 
United  States  mint  ratio  of  gold  to  fractional  silver,  14.88  to  1  ;  United  States  mint  ratio 
of  gold  to  silver  dollar,  (circulation  limited  because  overvalued.)  16  to  1:  British  mint  ratio 
of  gold  to  silver,  14.28  to  1 :  French  mint  ratio,  gold  to  silver  5-franc  piece,  (circulation  lim- 
ited because  undervalued,)  15.5  to  1 ;  French  mint  ratio,  gold  to  debased  smaller  silver  coin- 
age, 14.38  to  1. 

The  ratios  since  1859  were  deduced  from  the  semi-monthly  quotations  of  the 
price  per  ounce  of  silver  bars  in  London,  published  from  time  to  time  in  the 
journal  of  the  Statistical  Society  of  London.  From  1841  to  1848  the  values 
adopted  were  computed  from  data  furnished  by  Mr.  Vim.  Newmarch  in  a  valuable 
pa}xn'  read  by  him  before  the  London  Statistical  Society  and  pu])lished  in  the 
journal  of  that  society.  From  1760  to  1829,  inclusive,  the  values  were  taken 
from  the  Fimding  System  of  Mr.  Jonathan  Elliott,  which  fonns  part  of  the  Exec- 
utive Documents  of  the  second  session  of  the  !28th  Congress.  For  the  11  years, 
1830  to  1840,  inclusive,  there  is  a  lapse  in  the  information  furnished;  but  it  is 
deemed  safe  to  assume  the  ratio  for  this  period  as  15.8,  the  ratio  of  the  periods 
just  prior  and  subsequent  to  the  inten'al. 

It  will  be  obsei'ved  that  with  the  discover}''  and  working  of  the  California  and 
Australian  gold  fields  the  relative  value  of  gold  to  silver  fell  from  an  average 
of  15j  for  the  eight  years  1841-8,  just  prior  to  this  event,  to  an  average  of  15f . 
for  the  14  years  1853-66,  which  followed  the  transition  period  of  four  years 
1849-'52. 

The  ratios  adopted  for  the  purposes  of  coinage  by  the  mints  of  the  United 
States,  Great  Britain,  and  France,  respectively,  are  herewith  given.  Comparison 
of  the  data  indicates  that  the  simplest  ratio  which  could  safely  be  adopted  for 
the  purposes  of  coinage  at  the  mint  is  15  to  1,  a  rate  sensibly  lower  than  the 
market  ratio  for  at  least  60  3'ears,  and  destined,  it  would  seem  from  the  present 
upward  tendency  of  the  value  of  gold  as  compared  with  the  market  value  of 
silver,  to  remain  so  for  years  to  come.  The  silver  coins  are  thus,  ])y  the  adop- 
tion of  this  simple  ratio,  overvalued,  which  is  now  the  settled  policy  of  the  civ- 
ilized world,  and  if  made  legal  tender  only  in  payment  of  small  sums,  as  is  at 
present  the  case  in  the  United  States,  in  England,  in  France,  or  in  many  other 
countries,  woidd  circulate  freely  with  our  present  standard  gold  coin — the  latter, 
of  coTU'se,  being  made  legal  tender  in  all  amounts. 

The  importation  of  sih'cr  from  the  silver-producing  countries  into  Great  Brit- 
ain, and  tlie  price  per  ounce  for  bar  silver  in  London  at  various  times  since  1848, 
are  shown  in  the  foUowinu;  table : 


Year. 

Ounces. 

Shillings 
per  lb. 
troy.  * 

Year. 

Ounces. 

Shillings 
per  lb. 
tro;^.* 

1848^ 

17,337,226 
20,  48f;,  600 
14,715,247 
16,304,403 
18,848,521 
17,421,714 
16, 797,  442 
14, 868, 935 
17,041,761 

59* 

59^ 

60 

61 

60f 

61i 

61  i 

6Ii 

61| 

1857. 

16,798,163 
9,017,458 
1 ] , 909, 246 
16,624,696 
19,954,001 
20, 828, 53^ 

61J 

1849 

1858 

6I| 

imo 

1859 

62-,V 

Irt5i 

1660 

61U 

1852 

1861 

60-li 

1853 

1862 

fii-Ai 

1854 

1863 

61i 

1855 

1866 

62 

1856 

40 

"  Or,  which  is 

the  same  tb 

lug  pence  per  oiuice  troy. 

626  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

It  was  expected  about  1853,  when  the  permanence  of  the  Californian  and 
Australian  gold  mines  was  no  longer  a  matter  of  doubt,  that  the  relative  value 
of  gold  would  soon  fall  as  much  as  it  had  risen  in  the  sixteenth  century,  but  this 
expectation  has  not  been  realized.  It  is  impossible  now  to  foresee  or  to  foiTO. 
any  confident  opinion  whether  gold  will  fall  in  value,  as  compared  with  silver,  if 
the  present  relative  production  is  maintained.  Chevalier  contended,  in  18-57, 
that  if  it  were  not  for  the  fact  that  France,  since  1850,  had  been  changing  her 
cuh'ency  from  silvei;to  gold,  the  latter  metal  would  have  fallen  greatly  in  value ; 
and  he  called  France  the  parachute  of  gold.*  From  1850  to  1857  the  French 
m.int  coined  $540,000,000  in  gold,  or  an  annual  average  of  nearly  $80,000,000, 
while  for  45  years  previous  to  1848  the  annual  coinage  of  gold  had  been  only 
$4,450,000.  His  argument  would  seem  to  be  that  so  soon  as  a  gold  cuiTency 
had  been  substituted  in  France,  gold  would  fall,  but  since  1857  enough  of  that 
metal  lias  been  poured  into  Europe  to  supply  nearly  all  the  nations  with  gold, 
and  still  there  is  no  noteworthy  change  in  relative  value. 

There  is  such  an  immense  demand  for  ornaments  and  table-ware  made  of  the 
precious  metals,  that  a  long  time  must  elapse  before  it  can  be  supplied.  AVe 
must  expect,  too,  that  at  no  distant  time  Asia  will  use  gold  extensively  for  cur- 
rency, and  in  fact  it  has  already  commenced  to  do  so.  We  consider  it  entirely 
useless  to  endeavor  to  predict  the  relative  value  of  gold  and  silver  in  the  future. 
The  financial  and  commercial  history  of  the  world  during  the  last  ten  years 
does  not  establish  Chevalier's  idea  that  gold  as  related  to  silver  will  soon  com- 
mence to  fall  in  proportion  to  the  excess  of  its  production.  According  to  his 
theory  the  fall  should  have  commenced  already.  In  10  years  that  have  elapsed 
since  he  wrote  $1,200,000,000  have  been  added  to  the  possessions  of  Christen- 
dom, more  than  enough,  if  his  estimates  were  correct,  to  overstock  the  market. 
But  the  market  is  not  overstocked,  as  we  know  from  the  fact  that  the  price  is  not 
materially  changed.  It  is  inideniable,  however,  that  the  market  would  soon  be 
overstocked  in  Christendom  if  there  were  no  outlet.  Gold,  exce})t  for  purposes  of 
small  change,  in  sums  less  than  two  dollars  and  a  half,  is  far  more  convenient 
than  silver,  and  is  preferred  for  most  of  the  purposes  of  coin  ;  and  that  preference 
will  extend  to  Hindostan  and  China  so  soon  as  we  have  no  more  silver  to  spare. 
We  have  now  an  excess  of  silver  or  we  would  not  ship  so  much  away,  and  so 
soon  as  we  have  no  longer  an  excess,  the  European  and  American  mevchants  in 
Asia  will  tell  their  customers  that  they  must  take  gold  in  payment.  The  more 
intelligent  Chinese  see  the  great  advantages  of  a  currency  of  gold  coin  over  a 
bartering  for  silver  bars,  so  the  more  precious  metal  has  already  come  into  con- 
siderable use,  and  those  Asiatics  who  have  done  l)usiness  in  California  and  Aus- 
tralia will  help  to  make  the  change.  If  it  could  be  proved  that  all  the  gold 
must  be  confined  to  Europe  and  America  while  Asia  should  continue  her  demand 
for  silver,  then  a  great  fall  in  the  relative  price  of  gold  within  a  brief  period 
would  have  to  be  admitted  ;  but  that  proof  cannot  be  furnished.  Sonic  fluctua- 
tions have  taken  place  in  the  relative  value  of  the  two  precious  metals  within 
the  last  ten  years,  but  they  are  too  slight  to  furnish  a  basis  for  coihclusions  of 
any  iinpoi'tance. 

The  coinage  of  all  the  nations  fixes  the  comparative  piices  in  such  a  manner 
that  no  change  can  occur  without  overcoming  obstacles  which  did  not  exist  200 
years  ago.  Throughout  Christendom  the  governments  and  the  merchants  say 
that  one  ounce  of  gold  shall  be  worth  15  of  silver;  and  to  prevent  any  question 
about  the  precise  relation,  coins  of  both  metals  are  in  universal  use  with  a  con- 
ventional value.  The  value  is  conventional  to  a  great  degree ;  wo  know  that 
it  does  not  bear  any  precise  proportion  to  the  supply.  If  the  value  is  now  con- 
ventional why  should  not  the  conventionality  stand  ?  A  change  in  such  a  mat- 
ter necessarily  implies  loss  and  inconvenience.     The  present  relative  prices  of 

*  Chevalier,  pp.  59,  73. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS  627 

tlie  two  motals  are  vory  well  suited  to  the  wants  of  commerce.  We  oan  pay 
larijo  sums  in  fifold  without  overloadinii^  a  man ;  we  can  ])ay  small  sums  in  sil- 
ver with  coin  not  too  small  to  l»e  handled  or  carried  in  the  i)ocket.  It  would  he 
very  inconvenient  to  have  all  onr  coin  of  equal  value  per  pound,  for  then  large 
sums  would  be  burdens,  or  small  coin  would  be  too  small  for  our  fingers.  In 
fact  two  metals  are  hardly  enough  and  so  copper  and  brass  have  been  used  for 
coinage  by  most  civilized  nations,  in  addition  to  the  precious  metals.  Chevayer* 
says,  ''Nobody  can  say  that  some  day  silver  may  not  also  undergo  a  great  fall, 
brought  about  by  a  productit)n  which  should  be  distinguished  by  the  two  fol- 
lowing characteristics:  Of  being  much  greater  in  comparison  with  the  employ- 
ments to  which  it  had  hitherto  been  applied,  and  of  being  produced  under  more 
favorable  circumstances,  that  is  at  less  cost  per  kilogramme  for  the  meta,! 
obtained.  There  are  strong  reasons  lor  thinking  that  if  the  United  States 
annexed  Jlexico  and  penetrated  further  into  the  regions  of  Central  Ameiica-, 
this  event  woidd  not  be  of  tardy  accomplishment  imder  the  auspices  of  a  race 
so  industrious  and  so  enterprising  as  the  Anglo-Saxons." 

IIow  Individuals  are  Enriched  by  Mining. — The  first  effect  of  the  pro- 
duction of  the  precious  metals  in  rich  mines  is  that  it  enriches  the  individual 
engaged  in  mining,  or  at  least  gives  him  an  opportunity  to  enrich  himself.  A 
large  proportion  of  mankind  are  so  stupid,  so  imprudent,  so  wasteful,  or  so 
indifterent  to  the  value  of  money,  that  they  cannot  make  money  when  they 
have  the  best  of  chances,  or  keep  it  after  they  get  it.  The  wages  of  miners  are 
higher  than  those  of  other  laborers,  and  when  the  mines  are  very  rich  the  pro- 
prietors liecome  possessed  of  immense  sums.  In  the  mining  districts  nearly 
every  man  when  he  goes  out  walking  over  the  hills  keeps  alooko-ut  for  '-indioa- 
tlons,''  in  hope  of  finding  some  vein  that  may  make  him  a  millionaire. 

The  poorest  white  laborer  in  California  wf)rking  by  the  month  gets  a  dollar  a 
day  besides  board,  and  as  the  French  or  German  laborer  in  Europe  receives  less 
than  50  cents  a  day,  the  Californian  can,  with  his  earnings,  hire  two  Europeans 
to  work  for  him,  or  he  can  purchase  as  much  as  two  can  produce,  or  he  can 
afford  to  consume  as  much  as  two  European  laborers  do.  He  waijts  their  mer- 
chandise and  they  want  his  gold  ;  so  he  exchanges  one  of  his  days'  work  for 
two  of  theirs.  In  this  way  he  may  live  rich,  even  if  on  account  of  his  exti^av- 
agant  habits  he  does  not  die  rich.  But  the  disproportion  between  wages  in  Cal- 
ifoniia  and  Europe  is  still  greater  in  other  occupations.  The  average  pay  of 
lalK>rers  and  the  average  profits  of  business  men  in  California  are  from  three  to 
five  as  great  as  in  couiinental  Europe  for  labor  or  business  of  the  same  kind, 
and  the  difference  represents  a  ten-fold  profit.  If  it  costs  75  cents  per  day  to 
live,  the  man  who  gets  one  dollar  per  day  can  lay  by  capital  twice  as  fast  as 
the  man  who  makes  only  87.J  cents.  If  the  laborer  of  California  had  lived 
during  the  last  17  years  with  as  little  imnccessary  expenditure  as  the  laborer  of 
GeiTOany,  there  would  scarcely  be  a  man  among  the  old  residents  without  his 
thousands. 

How  Nations  are  Enriched  by  Mining. — The  second  effect  of  the  pro- 
duction of  the  precious  metals  is  to  enrich  the  nation  which  possesses  the  mines, 
or  to  give  it  an  opportunity  to  enrich  itself.  Nearly  all  mining  districts  ai"© 
poor,  although  they  consume  luxiu-ies  which  can  elsewhere  be  afi'orded  only  by 
the  wealthiest.  The  finest  silks  and  the  most  costly  wines  went  to  ^'irginia 
City  during  the  great  bonanza  in  1862,  and  similar  extravagance  had  been  wit- 
nessed before  at  Potosi,  Ccito  Pasco,  Guauajnato,  and  Zacatecas.  The  owner 
of  a  rich  mine  cannot  dig  out  the  pure,  precious  metal  with  a  shovel  unassisted  ; 
he  must  employ  a  great  number  of  laborers,  and  his  mouoy  runs  all  through  the 
community  and  stimulates  every  branch  of  industry.  Tlie  whole  nation  f^eels 
rich,  and  it  purchases  for  one  day's  work  the  productions  on  which  other  nations 

*  Page  142.  Sec  also  Chevalier's  Political  Economy,  section  III,  chapter  I  and  II. 


628  RESOUECES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

have  spent  two  day's.  The  gold  and  silver  are  sent  abroad  to  purchase  those 
thing's  which  can  he  made  cheaper  abroad  where  labor  has  not  felt  the  stimulus. 

How  THE  Precious  Metals  Fall  in  Value. — The  third  effect  of  the 
production  of  the  precious  metals  in  large  quantities  is  that  the  prices  of  other 
articles  generally  are  effected.  We  want  gold  and  silver  for  coin  and  for  use  in 
the  arts,  and  the  smaller  the  supply  relatively  to  the  demand  the  higher  the 
value.  The  experience  of  ancient  as  well  as  of  modern  times  has  proved  this 
principle.  After  Alexander  conquered  Persia,  and  enriched  Greece  with  the 
spoils  of  Asia,  three  times  as  much  silver  was  required  to  pay  for  a  day's  work  as 
before ;  and  now  it  requires  in  average  years  six  ounces  of  silver  to  purchase 
as  much  wheat  in  Europe  as  could  be  bought  in  1490  for  one  ounce.*  The  cause 
of  the  change  is  the  great  relative  increase  in  the  supply  of  silver  while  there  is 
no  relative  increase  in  the  supply  of  wheat.  The  residt  of  the  gi'eat  yield  of  the 
silver  mines  of  Peru  and  Mexico  in  the  16th  century  was  that  between  1550  and 
1600  wheat  trebled  in  price.  The  production  of  tlie  16th  centmy  was  about 
$690,000,000,  whereas,  the  production  of  $4,000,000,000  in  the  ISth  centmy 
added  only  50  per  cent,  to  the  price  which  wheat  bore  in  1600,  but  more  than 
200  per  cent,  of  the  price  which  it  hore  in  1500. 

Wlien  we  compare  ancient  with  modern  times  we  see  that  the  rise  in  prices 
was  very  much  gi'eater  relatively  in  Rome  after  she  became  mistress  of  the  world 
than  it  has  been  in  modern  Em'ope  since  the  mines  of  America,  Australia  and 
Russia  have  yielded  their  treasures.  The  difference  is  owing  partly  to  the  fact 
that  a  large  portion  of  the  laborers  in  the  Roman  Empire  were  slaves,  and  the 
number  of  those  who  used  money  and  could  possess  plate  was  comparatively 
small,  and  civilization  was  confined  within  naiTOW  limits. 

The  decrease  of  prices  was  less  in  proportion  to  the  production  of  the  precious 
metals  in  the  17th  than  in  the  16th,  and  less  in  the  18th  than  in  the  17th  cen- 
tury, because  business  lias  increased  with  much  greater  rapidity  in  late  times 
than  before.  Connnerce,  manufactures,  ajul  intelligent  agriculture  have  grown 
wondert'ully.  Many  branches  of  trade  conducted  mainly  by  barter  several  cen- 
turies ago  are  now  managed  exclusively  with  money.  The  laborers  are  all  free, 
and  each  needs  a  stock  of  coin  with  which  to  make  purchases  in  case  of  necessity. 
The  use  of  silver  table 'ware  and  of  gold  ornaments  is  very  extensive,  and  large 
quantities  of  both  gold  and  silver  are  used  in  various  kinds  of  manufacture.  The 
introduction  of  steam  in  mills,  l>oats  and  cars  has  doubled  the  productive  capacity 
of  niankind,  and  far  more  than  doubled  the  demand  lor  money.  Tlie  speed  and 
cheap  communication  between  all  countries  has  added  vastly  to  the  general 
wealth,  and  has  increased  the  demand  for  the  representatives  of  wealth.  The 
remotest  parts  of  the  world  are  now  brought  to  our  doors,  and  China  and  Hin- 
dostan  0})en  their  laps  to  receive  our  gold  and  silver  and  prevent  it  from  falling 
ill  \iilue  by  becoming  too  abundant  in  our  hands.  One  of  the  best  indications 
•of  the  increase  of  trade  and  the  spread  of  civilization  is  the  relative  value  of  the 
jprecious  metals,  and  we  see  that  a  net  increase  of  $i500, 000,000,  or  an  addition 
'of  250  per  cent,  to  the  stock  in  the  16th  centur\',  trebled  prices  in  half  a  cen- 
tury, while  a  net  increase  of  $5,3O»,000,000,  or  900  per  cent.,  since  the  year 
1600,  has  not  trebled  prices  in  the  last  250  years. 

Influence  of  Increased  Productions  on  National  Debts. — But  what- 
ever may  be  the  relative  position  of  the  two  metals,  it  is  very  certain  that  the 
titne  is  not  far  distant  when  tin,'  jirice  of  the  two  as  compared  with  other  products 
of  human  labor  uuist  fall.  They  are  now  increasing  far  more  rapidly  than  is 
the  demand  for  them,  and  at  tlie  present  rate  of  increase  they  would  soon  have 
to  begin  to  fall  perceptibly.  But  the  production  will  become  much  greater  tlian 
it  is.  The  vast  improvements  that  have  been  made  both  in  gold  and  silver 
mining  within  the  last  20  years  are  applied  to  only  a  few  mines;  and  the  reward 


*ClievaUer,  p.  18.    Jacobs,  Vol.  II.,  pp.  71,  113,  216. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  629 

foi'  tlioso  Avlio  introduce  them  into  other  parts  of  the  worhl  arc  so  largo  and  so 
certain  that  the  intiodnction  cannot  he  dehiyed  to  any  remote  j)eriod.  If  all  the 
arjifentiferoiis  lodes  of  ^lexic^o,  Pern  and  Bolivia,  known  to  l»e  rich,  were  worked 
with  the  machinery  used  at  Washoe,  their  yield  would  really  Hood  the  world. 
The  placers  of  Brazil,  exhausted  for  the  slow  processes  known  a  centiuy  ago,  will 
yield  ti-easure  greater  than  they  ever  produced  before.  The  hydraulic  [)roceys 
is  needed  in  Siberia,  and  in  Africa,  and  in  many  jjlacers  as  worked  out. 

It  may  do  very  well  in  European  monarchies,  where  it  is  considered  a  wise 
])olicy,  to  preserve  wealth  in  those  families  which  have  it  now ;  but  in  the  United 
States  our  customs  and  our  laws  tavor  the  individual  rather  than  the  family.  TVe 
have  no  nobility,  no  princely  salaries  for  oHicials,  no  hereditary  titles,  no  social 
reverence  for  blood,  no  primogeniture,  no  law  of  entail,  no  hampering  of  the 
sale  of  real  estate,  no  restrictions  of  education  to  the  wealthy,  no  exclusive  gov- 
ernmental favor  for  the  rich.  "We  are  accustomed  to  see  the  rich  become  poor, 
and  the  poor  become  rich;  and  we  are  proud  of  our  country  because  here  the 
career  is  open  to  talent,  while  in  Europe  it  is,  comparatively  speaking,  open  only 
to  hereditary  wealth.  3Iost  of  the  rich  men  of  Europe  are  the  sons  and  grand- 
sons of  rich  men ;  in  the  United  States  the  rich  men  are  mostly  the  sons  and 
almost  invariably  the  grand-sons  ttf  jioor  men.  We  are  then  not  frightened  to 
think  that  those  families  which  hold  large  sums  in  government  and  other  bonds 
should  be  poorer  in  half  a  century  than  the}'  now  are  or  were  thousands  of  3-ears 
ago.  New  deposits  of  silver  will  be  found,  and  the  innmnerable  rich  lodes  in 
the  Pacific  slope  of  the  United  States,  not  yet  opened,  will  be  worked  with  })rutit. 
The  mining  })rocesses  are  now  being  studied  by  numerous  learned  and  -able  men, 
and  improvement  after  improvement  will  be  made  in  the  modes  of  reduction. 

The  inevitable  fall  in  the  value  of  the  precious  metals  will  be  a  benefit  to 
mankind  generally.  It  will  reduce  the  wealth  of  the  rich,  and  the  debts  of 
nations.  The  dollar  of  debt  which  represents  the  day's  work  of  a  common 
laborer,  will,  before  the  end  of  the  centmy,  represent  only  four-fifths,  perhaps 
only  two-thirds  of  a  day's  work.  Thus,  national  debts  now  existing  will  be 
reduced  20  or  33  per  cent. — the  interest  as  well  as  the  principal.  The  decrease, 
however,  will  be  so  slow  that  it  will  scarcely  be  felt  l>y  any  one  person ;  so  the 
general  public  will  be  benefitted  while  individuals  will  lose  little. 

Chevalier  thinks  that  government  shoidd  do  all  in  its  power  to  keep  the 
relative  value  of  a  dollar  at  the  present  standard ;  but  it  would  be  hard  to  find 
any  good  reason  for  such  a  policy. 

The  amount  of  bonds  outstanding  to  be  paid  by  the  United  States  for  national, 
State,  county,  city,  and  railroad  debts  is  not  less  than  $!5, 000, 000, 000,  and  a 
reduction  of  50  per  cent,  m  that  debt  by  a  fall  of  50  per  cent,  in  the  value  of 
gold  and  silver,  will  be  a  vast  benefit  to  the  nation.  Chevalier  assumes  that 
gold  will  fall,  and  he  urges  France  to  make  silver  the  only  legal  tender,  so  that 
loss  to  the  bondholders  and  the  gain  to  the  government  ma}'  bie  as  little  as 
possible.  He  says,  "if  both  metals  remain  legal  tender,  as  thty  then  were  in 
France,  clebtors  will  pay  in  whichever  ])roves  to  be  the  least  in  value."  While 
a  change  from  the  j)resent  policy  in  this  country  and  in  England,  France  and 
many  other  countries  would  seem  to  be  of  very  doubtful  expediency,  it  might 
be  worthy  of  consideration,  under  certain  contingencies,  whether  om"  government, 
looking  at  the  matter  from  a  dilferent  stand  point,  should  not  make  both  metals 
legal  tender,  so  that  the  government  should  have  the  benefit  of  any  change  in 
relative  value. 


^ 


630  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND   TEERITORIES 


FOREIGN  STATES  AND  TEriRITOPJES, 

LOWER    CALIFORNIA.* 

Geographical  and  Physical  Features.— The  peninsula  of  Lower  California  extends 
from  the  23d  to  near  the  32d  degree  of  north  latitude,  about  715  miles  in  a  direct  line,  and 
varies  in  width  from  about  35  miles  in  its  narrowest  part  to  more  than  twice  that  where  it  is 
widest.  Bounded  on  one  side  by  the  Gulf  of  California  and  the  C-olorado  river,  and  on  the 
other  by  the  Pacific  ocean,  it  has  a  coast  line  greater  in  proportion  than  almost  any  tract  of 
similar  area  in  the  world.  Nor  is  this  all ;  owing  to  its  extremely  irregular  outline,  this 
coast  is  almost  a  succession  of  bays,  harbors,  and  roadsteads,  furnishing  convenient  depots 
for  the  numerous  whalers  who  resort  here. 

The  general  impression  seems  to  have  been  that  the  whole  peninsula  was  a  mass  of  rugged 
mountains,  dry.  barren,  and  desolate.  This  is  by  no  means  the  case  :  there  are  mountains, 
and  a  large  part  of  the  country  is  dry  and  desolate  enough ;  but  it  has  many  redeeming 
features,  and  wherever  water  exists  its  fertility  is  astonishing.  That  portion  lying  south  of 
La  Paz  is  by  far  the  roughest,  has  the  highest  and  most  ragged  mountains,  the  deepest  val- 
leys, and  is  in  all  respects  the  most  picturesque.  The  San  Lazaro  chain  starts  as  low  hills 
near  Cape  San  Lucas,  and  running  north  and  northeast,  culminating  in  the  peak  of  San 
Lazaro,  perhaps  5,000  feet  high,  fails  near  Triunfo  to  not  much  more  than  1,000  feet,  and 
continuing  northeast  again,  rises  in  the  high  and  frowning  masses  of  the  Cacachilas,  making 
a  most  imposing  background  to  the  beautiful  town  of  La  Paz,  as  seen  from  the  bay.  Small 
spurs  run  out  from  the  San  Lazaro  chain  down  to  the  west  coast,  while  eastward  spurs  and 
nearly  parallel  chains  fill  in  the  whole  area  to  the  eastern  coast.  Beautiful  valleys  nestle 
among  these  mountains.  The  valley  of  San  Jose  del  Cabo  runs  northward,  east  of  the  high 
mountains,  about  20  miles  in  length,  much  of  it  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  and  with 
much  more  that  could  be  easily  rendered  arable  at  trifling  expense.  Other  valleys,  smaller 
in  size  but  similar  in  most  respects,  occur,  scattered  here  and  there,  and  even  on  the  summit 
of  the  high  spur  known  as  the  SieiTa  de  la  Victoria  is  said  to  be  a  long  chain  of  little  val- 
leys with  the  richest  soil,  finest  of  grass,  a  superabundance  of  clear,  sweet  mountain  water, 
and  bciidfred  by  groves  and  forests  of  oaks  and  pines.  North  of  this  granite  mass,  and 
extending  with  some  trifling  breaks  to  Sta.  Gertrudi's  or  San  Borja,  lies  a  belt  of  table  nioun- 
taiss  of  sandstones.  These  almost  every  where  commence  on  the  west  coast  as  broad  plains, 
rising  towards  the  northeast  so  gradually  that,  were  it  not  for  their  being  cut  by  innumerable 
canons  which  show  their  steadily  increasing  height,  one  might  still  believe  himself  to  be  but 
a  few  feet  above  the  ocean. 

The  regular  elevation  of  the  tables  continues  to  within  a  few  miles  of  the  gulf,  where  a 
sudden  descent  cuts  them  ofl^'  M'ith  a  face  so  precipitous  that,  except  in  a  very  few  places,  it 
is  impossible  to  find  a  pass  by  which  to  reach  the  coast.  Seen  irom  the  west  side,  the  moun- 
tains look  like  a  sea  of  flat  tables,  barren  and  covered  with  loose  stones ;  whi]e  from  the 
eastern  face  they  are  steep,  rugged,  and  so  serrated  as  to  lose  entirely  their  tabular  form.    On 

'  Exri.OKATiox  OF  Lower  Catji'orxia. — An  imjiortant  ami  intercsliiiff  scientific  recoiinoisBancc  of  the 
pcuiusula  of  Lower  California  ^sas  maile  last  year,  untliT  tlio  direction  of  Mr.  J.  Eoss  Browne,  who  organ- 
ized a  party  in  San  l'"rancisco.  coasistinj;  ol'Mi-.  Wm.  M.  Gabb.  of  the  State  Geological  Survey ;  T>t.  F. 
Vop.  Lolir,  of  the  School  of  Mines  of  Freiberg,  am\  a  corps  of  assistants.  The  results  of  the  expedition 
have  not  vet  been  publislied.  Mr.  Urowne  and  his  party  landed  at  Cape  St.  Lucas,  fi-ora  which  point  they 
proceeded  by  the  coast  trail  to  San  Jos§  del  Cabo ;  thence  llnongh  the  valley  of  the  same  name  to  the 
mining  district  of  Triunfo.  near  tlie  town  of  San  Antonio.  Here  tliey  spent  scvend  days  es.'iniining  tho 
mines;  after  which  tlicy  visited  La  Paz  and  Pieliilnigui'.  on  the  (Julf  (if  California.  At  iJa  Paz  they  had  an 
interview  witli  (ijoverncn-  Peih-in  on  the  subject  of  the  pvoixised  c(ik>nizatfon  of  the  Territory  by  Americans. 
The  general  feeling  of  tlie  peojih^  on  that  sulijcet  seeweii  to  be  favorable;  but  no  encouragement  was  given 
to  the  lu'ojeet  by  the  ollicers  of  ilie  Mexic:in  guvernmeut  then  in  power.  Judge  Galvau,  who  has  since 
become  governor  of  Lo«i'r  Californi;i,  is  not  considered  inimical  to  American  occupation;  ajid  the  proba- 
bility is,  lie  will  use  his  influence  to  promote  the  settlement  and  development  of  the  Territory,  should  he  be 
pemiitted  to  remain  in  power,  whicli  is  (juestionable.     On  returning  to  Triuntb,  Mr.  Browne"  and  his  party 

Jiroeured  an  outfit  of  paek-nuiles  and  saddle-animals,  and  crossed  the  peninsula  to  the  bay  of  Todos  Siuitos. 
from  that  point  they  made  a  dreary  jouiney  up  the  coast  to  the  bay  of  Magdalena.  Water  is  scarce  .olouff 
the  trail,  and  the  country  presents  Init  few  iitfraetions,  liaving  au  libnost  uninterrupted  desert  of  sand  and 
roclty  masses,  sparsely  covered  m  ith  eaetus  and  thorny  shrubs.  At  Salado,  an  isolated  water-hole,  seven 
miles  from  Magdalena.  the  partv  encamped  to  recruit  their  animals.  Several  days  were  spent  in  visiting 
the  neighboring  shores  of  ^lagdalena,  but  no  water  was  found  nearer  than  Salado,  and  the  whole  comitry 
seemed  to  be  without  resources.  Two  whalc-sliips  lay  at  anchor,  fi'om  which  Mr.  Browne  procured  a  Ixiat 
and  crew  to  make  an  exploration  of  the  bay.  IMvidin'g  his  party,  ho  started  the  main  branch  of  the  expe- 
dition across  to  Loreto,  and  thence,  as  experience  and  theolijectof  the  reconnoissance  might  suggest,  north- 
ward througli  the  iieninsnla'to  San  Diego.  Jlaving  made  a  careful  examination  of  the  bay  of  Magdalena 
ami  its  shores,  ami  gathered  material  for  an  interesting  report.  JkLi'.  Browne  crossed  the  peninsula  again,  via 
Sun  llilario,  to  La  Paz,  where  he  remained  a  sh«rt  time,  revisiting  I'iehiluigueand  the  Triunfo.  Eeturning 
thence  to  Cape  St.  Lucas,  be  crossed  tlie  gulf  to  ]\raz;itlan.  and  from  that  point  obtained  passage  in  the  gov- 
ernment steamer  Suawncc  to  San  1-^-anciseo.  l{is  forthcoming  ofiiidal  report  on  the  mineral  resources  of  the 
States  and  Territories  West  of  the  Pocky  ^Mountains  containsa  vcrv  interesting  and  valuable  contribution 
on  the  geology  of  the  country,  from  the  pen  of  Mr.  (iabb,  who,  with  his  pimv,  crossed  the  peninsula  ten 
times,  making  tho  entire  trip" from  Cape  St.  Lucas  to  San  Diego  on  mule-back.  "  As  this  is  the  first  and  only 
scientific  reconnoissance  ever  made  ot  the  peninsula  of  Lower  Calilbrnia,  the  account  from  Mr.  Gabb  will  be 
found  of  great  interest  and  value.    (American  Journal  of  Mining.) 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY    MOUNTAINS.  631 

this  siilo,  and  adjoining  tlio  roast,  are  sonic  good  little  valleys  ;  south  of  Loroto,  for  per 
liaps  'JO  miles,  is  a  tract  of  level  land  bordering  the  coast,  and  often  a  eou[)le  of  u\iles  wide, 
most  of  it  covered  with  a  tortile  soil.  Further  north,  at  .San  Bruno,  at  .San  Juan,  and  again 
south  of  Moleje,  tire  broad  valleys  formiug  bays  in  the  hills,  from  throe  to  ten  scjuare  leagues 
in  area,  and  all  excellent  land,  oTily  requiring  wafer  to  be  brought  to  the  surface  to  reader 
them  valuable.  On  the  west  side,  adjoining  the  Pacific,  is  a  plain  from  near  Toi1j)s  Santos  to 
till-  mouth  of  the  arroyo  of  Purissinia,  about  150  to  '200  miles  in  length,  and  with  an  average 
width  of  perhaps  10  miles,  more  than  half  of  which  is  covered  with  good  fertile  soil,  but 
without  Avater.  In  the  various  canons  which  cut  the  mesa  lands,  embouching  on  this  plain, 
are  little  valleys  of  from  a  few  acres  to  several  square  miles  in  extent,  usually  well  watered, 
and  some  of  them  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation.  Further  nor'fh,  between  the  bays  of  Balle- 
nas  and  San  Svbastian,  the  plains  exist  again,  merging  into  mesas  on  the  east,  but  separated 
from  the  sea  by  a  range  of  granite  mountains  parallel  with  the  cotvst,  known  as  tlie  Sta. 
CMara  range.  Still  further  north,  these  plains  continue  with  occasional  interruptions  to  Itosa- 
rita,  where  they  are  cut  oft'  by  the  rolling  mountain  masses  reaching  the  west  coast.  These 
northern  plains  are,  however,  for  the  most  part  deserts,  though  a  portion  could  perhaps  be 
reclaimed. 

Near  Moleje  the  eastern  side  of  the  range  undergoes  a  change.  The  abrupt  eastern  face 
falls  to  some  extent  and  retreats  from  the  coast,  the  intervening  space  being  tilled  willi  roll- 
ing hills  or  barren  transver.se  ridges  almost  to  Sta.  Gertrudi's.  In  this  space  is  the  high  vol- 
canic mass  of  Las  Virgines,  nearly  4,000  feet  high,  and  running  westward  from  it  to  near 
San  Ignacio  is  a  succession  of  irregular  peaks  and  ridges  of  volcanic  origin. 

By  the  time  the  traveller  has  gone  a  day's  journey  north  of  Sta.  Gertrudi's  he,  will  observe 
a  change  coming  in  the  form  of  the  niouutaius.  The  heavy  sandstone  beds  that  formed  the 
mesas  begin  to  thin  out,  oulj-  cropping  some  of  the  higher  hills,  the  others  being  peaks, 
ridges,  and  spurs  of  granite  with  the  irregularity  of  outline  which  usually  characterizes  that 
rock.  This  transitionary  state  continues  ioi  the  next  hundred  miles,  to  .Sau  Borja,  beyond 
which  the  range  on  the  east  side  splits,  sending  off  a  branch  of  low  hills  to  the  northwest, 
the  main  chain  continuing  along  the  i  ast  t'oast.  This  latter  chain  continues,  high,  rough, 
and  forbidding,  to  Santa  Maria,  beyond  which  it  extends  as  a  low  range  of  lava-capped 
granite  hiils  of  constantly  diminishing  altitude,  until  it  is  lost  in  the  desert  of  the  uorth- 
i>ast.  In  the  mean  time,  the  spur  which  started  from  San  Borjaas  a  chain  of  partially  isolated 
hiils  becomes  more  marked  near  the  coast,  and  after  passing  Sau  Andres  it  assumes  very 
respectable  proportions,  growing  larger  and  higher,  entirely  occupying  Inilf  the  width  of  the 
peninsula  and  connecting  with  the  coast  ranges  of  Upper  California.  East  of  this,  and  north 
of  Santa  Maria,  the  country  is  represented  to  be  mostly  a  sandy  desert,  with  a  few  fertile 
spots.  Scattered  through  the  western  foot-hills,  and  along  the  flanks  of  the  range  bordering 
the  Pacitic,  are  many  beautiful  and  fertile  valleys,  which  will  he  mentioned  more  in  detail 
further  on. 

The  water-courses  of  the  country  are  hardly  worthy  of  a  separate  mention.  Of  rivers, 
properly  speaking,  there  are  none.  The  largest  streams  are  but  a  few  feet  in  ^vidth,  except 
some  few  in  the  extreme  northern  portion,  adjoining  Upper  California.  In  the  valley  of  San 
Jose  del  Cabo  is  a  little  rivulet,  fed  by  the  springs  in  the  granite  ranges,  and  furnishing  an 
abundant  and  steady  supply  of  water  for  irrigating  purposes.  A  smaller  but  equally  steady 
stream  is  found  at  Todos  .Santos,  and  is  the  means  of  keeping  up  the  prosperity  of  the 
place.  Similar  permanent  streams  exist  at  Comondo,  Purissima,  Sau  Ignacio,  and  else- 
where, and  by  supplying  moisture  to  the  soil,  enable  these  places  to  support  a  comparatively 
^en.se  population.  These  strwims  invariably  sink  on  reaching  the  plains,  and  are  lost  to  the 
surfaee,  though  the  water  could  be  regained  by  shallow  wells  or  carried  on  the  surface  by 
ditchee,  thereby  much  increasing  their  usefulness.  This  latter  plan  was  successfully  fol- 
lowed by  the  missionaries  in  several  instances,  the  most  valuable  of  which  is  at  the  deserted 
mission  of  Guadalupe,  where  the  water  of  San  Jose  creek  was  secured  above  the  sink  and 
carried  several  miles  in  a  ditch  or  canal,  the  dilapidated  ruins  of  which  still  exist.  At  Kosario, 
San  Ranum,  Cinadalupe,  and  Fia  Juaua  are  streams,  oaie  or  tw-o  of  which  would  be  called 
rivers  in  Upper  California ;  that  at  .San  Kamon  and  the  Rio  Fia  Jiiana  carrying  as  much  water 
as  Los  Angeles  river,  if  not  more.  Besides  the  above  there  are  many  snuxller  streams,  flow- 
ing perennially  in  the  canons,  along  a  pait  or  the  whole  of  the  courses,  which  I  have  not 
deemed  worthy  of  special  mention. 

Adjoining  or  lying  a  little  distance  from  the  coast  are  numerous  islands,  several  of  which 
are  from  '20  to  .'jO  miles  in  length.  In  the  gulf  the  largest  is  that  of  the  Angel  do  la  Guarda, 
or'the  Guardian  Angel,  said  to  be  rich  in  minerals,  but  very  rocky  aud  desolate.  Further 
south,  below  Loreto,  is  the  long,  narrow  island,  noted  for  its  salt,  called  Carmiu  island. 
Still  further  south,  near  La  Paz,  are  the  three  islands  known  as  San  Josef,  Espirifn  .''^anto, 
aud  Cerralbo.  On  the  west  coast  we  have,  among  many  others,  the  large  island  of  Margarita, 
forming  one  side  of  Magdalena  bay  ;  and  lying  off  the  coast,  opposite  the  bay  of  San  Sebas- 
tian, is  the  large  island  of  Cerros,  or  Cedros,  claimed  to  be  rich  in  copper,  and  famed  for  its 
wild  goats.  Most  of  these  islands  are  very  rough  and  inhospitable,  aud  entirely  unsuited 
for  either  farming  or  grazing  purposes. 

As  before  mentioned,  the  whole  coast  line  might  be  said  to  be  nearly  a  succession  of  har- 
bors.   Most  of  these  are,  of  course,  small,  shallow,  partially  exposed,  or  have  some  other 


632  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

^drawbacks,  but  several  will  compare  well  with  any  other  ports  on  the  west  coast.  Perhaps 
the  finest  is  the  bay  of  Majr'Jalena.  This  bay,  in  the  neighborhood  of  100  miles  from  Capo 
San  Lucas  on  the  iPacific  side,  is  about  50  miles  in  length  and,  in  places,  several  miles  wide. 
It  communicates  with  tbe  ocean  by  two  entrances,  one  at  each  end  of  Margarita  island,  and 
is  well  protected  to  the  seaward  by  the  same  island.  Its  importance  as  a  naval  station  for 
our  vessels  cannot  be  overrated,  and  if  our  government  does  not  secure  it  for  this  purpose, 
some  European  nation  will  be  very  apt  to  make  an  effort  to  obtain  it  so  soon  as  its  value 
shall  become  known.  Should  any  colony  of  foreigners  ever  settle  in  Lower  California,  it 
will  probably  be  placed  on  the  plains  bordering  the  long  northern  arm  of  the  bay,  where  the 
soil  is  extremely  fertile,  and  an  abundance  of  water  can  be  obtained  from  shallow  wells. 
Nearly  opposite  to  Magdalena  bay  is  the  harbor  of  La  Paz,  a  fine  bay,  well  protected  from 
all  winds,  except  the  fearful  hurricanes  or  "  temporales  "  which  blow  in  the  months  of  Sep- 
tember and  October,  and  come  from  such  a  quarter  as  to  blow  directly  up  the  bay.  Eight  or 
nine  miles  down  the  bay  Irom  the  town  is  a  sheltered  nook,  called  Pichilingue,  used  by  the 
United  States  war  vessel  on  this  station  as  a  coaling  station.  Here  vessels  are  safely  protected 
on  all  sides.  Half  way  up  the  west  coast  are  two  Large  bays — Ballenas,  opening  towards  the 
southwest,  and  San  Sebastian  Viscaino,  opening  towards  the  northwest.  Into  the  lormer  emp- 
ties the  San  Ignacio  lagoon,  and  into  the  latter  Scammon's  lagoon.  These  lagoons  are  two 
land-locked  bays,  with  comparatively  narrow  entrances,  and  much  frequented  by  whalers. 
'They  are  said  to  have  many  shoals,  though  the  channels  are  sufficiently  deep  for  large  ves- 
sels. It  would  be  useless,  in  the  present  connection,  to  mention  in  detail  the  nu»berless 
other  pcrts  on  the  two  coasts.  Suffice  it  to  say  that  there  are  many  used  by  the  regular 
coasting  trade,  such  as  the  Puerto  Escondido,  the  harbors  of  Loreto,  Moeje,  Sta.  Maria,  Sta. 
Domingo,  andmany  others. 

Tliere  is  still  another  item  perhaps  worthy  of  notice  under  this  head.  Several  railroad 
routes  across  northern  Mexico  have  been  canvassed.  Most  of  these  have  been  spoken  of  as 
Laving  their  wet^tern  terminus  from  Mazatlan  northward.  Should  such  an  enterprise  ever  be 
carried  to  a  successful  termination,  a  short  cut  across  the  peninsula  would  be  of  value  to 
shorten  the  distance  around  the  cape.  Several  possible  routes  exist,  all  of  wbich,  with  one 
exception,  would  be  required  to  pass  through  Purissima  or  San  Ignacio.  From  the  port  of 
San  Bruno,  or  the  neighboring  one  of  San  Juan,  it  is  claimed  that  there  is  a  low  pass  to  the 
head  of  the  Purissima  arroyo.  I  did  not  visit  this  ;  but  if  a  road  could  be  led  into  the  head 
of  the  Purissima  arroyo  it  coidd  then  reach  the  west  coast  at,  say  the  port  of  San  Juanico, 
without  further  engineering  difficulties.  From  the  port  of  Santa  Inez  or  San  Marcos,  above 
Moleje,  an  easy  route  exists  up  the  arroyo  of  Sta.  Aguida  to  the  base  of  the  main  chain. 
Here  a  mountain,  about  600  feet  above  the  valley,  has  to  be  surmounted  or  tunnelled  to  reaeli 
the  arroyo  of  San  Ignacio.     Another  way  to  njach  San  Ignacio  is  perhaps  easier,  howaver. 

From  the  port  of  Sta.  Maria,  north  of  the  volcano  of  the  Virgins,  there  is  no  obstruction, 
following  the  arroyo  of  Sta.  Maria  until  we  reach  the  pass  of  the  Inferno.  Here  a  tunnel  of 
about  a  mile  in  length  would  carry  the  road  to  the  mesa  above  San  Ignacio,  having  a  gentle 
grade  to  the  San  Ignacio  lagoon.  The  easiest  route,  hov/ever,  is  from  the  port  of  San  Luis 
by  way  of  the  arroyo  of  Calaumjuit,  past  the  old  mission  of  that  name,  to  the  mesa  of  Sta. 
Ana,  along  this  mesa  to  the  valley  of  San  Andres,  and  down  this  valley  and  the  arroyo  of 
San  Andres  to  the  coast.  Along  the  whole  line  there  will  be  no  tunnelling  required  ;  nature 
has  already  made  the  deep  cuts,  and  there  is  not  a  stream  to  cross.  An  almost  continuous 
plain  extends  from  coast  to  coast,  without  a  greater  rise  anywhere  than  ;?0  feet. 

Gkology, — The  three  geographical  divisions  into  which  I  have  separated  the  peninsula 
are  dependent  for  their  peculiar  features  on  their  geological  structure.  The  rough  mountains 
of  the  south  are  almost  wholly  granitic,  the  table  lands  of  the  middle  are  made  up  of  nearly 
horizontal  sandsttmes  and  volcanic  rocks,  while  the  more  northern  portions  combine  the 
ragged  and  irregularly-disposed  ridges  of  the  south  with  occasional  flat-topped  mountains, 
capjiod  by  rocks  of  sedimentary  or  eruptive  origin. 

All  of  the  highfiT  ridges  of  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Territory  are  made  irp  of  granites 
and  sienites,  and  formed,  during  the  deposition  of  the  heavy  bedded  mesa  sandstones,  an 
island  of  considerable  height  and  very  irregular  outline.  Tlie  structure  of  these  mountains 
is  so  simple  that  a  further  description  is  uiuiecessaiy.  It  is  not  until  within  half  a  mile 
south  of  the  mining  town  of  San  Antonio  that  any  change  in  the  geology  occurs.  Here 
mica  slate  is  encountered  for  the  first  time,  and  ibrms  a  belt  several  miles  wide,  and  running 
from  Todos  Santos,  on  the  southwest,  past  Sau  Antonio  and  Triuufo,  northeast.  It  prob- 
ably extends  into  the  Cacachilas  range,  and  forms  there,  as  at  the  other  mining  districts, 
the  country  rock  of  the  metalliferous  veins.  Beyond  the  mica  slate  again,  on  the  road 
between  Triuufo  and  La  Paz,  granite  is  encountered,  making  the  face  of  the  range  and 
extending  to  near  the  latter  town. 

In  all  of  the  valleys  scattered  through  these  mountains,  and  in  some  of  the  lone  hills  on 
the  east  side  of  tlie  peninsula,  are  sednneutary  formations  of  a  comparatively  late  geological 
age.  At  Santiago  I  was  informed  that  three  miles  northeast  of  that  place  is  a  locality  vvba-e 
large  fossil  oysters  occur  ia  gieat  abundance,  and  that  they  are  collected  and  burnt  for  lime. 
I  had  no  opportunity  of  visiting  the  locality,  a  circumstance  which  I  have  regretted  ever 
since.  A  short  distance  further  northeast,  near  the  coast,  at  a  rancho  called  Los  Martyres, 
is  a  high  hill  of  sandstones,  without  fossils,  dipping  to  the  westward  at  an  angle  of  about 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  633 

1.'°.  From  its  rronoral  appcarnncc  it  is,  in  nil  i)robiil>ility,  of  tlio  sanio  aijje  as  tbe  sandstones 
wliich  Tnuke  up  the  niosas  above  La  Taz.  In  none  of  tiicse  sandstones  Iiavo  I  over  succeeded 
in  tindinp;  fossils  by  wliicb  to  obtain  a  clue  to  their  g-eolog'ical  apje.  Tliey  probably,  however, 
belonjT  to  the  same  prroup  as  the  Miocene  sandstones  of  Upper  California.  Tliey  have  in 
many  respects  the  same  litholofi^ical  characters,  and  bear  the  same  relation.s  to  the  ^r.inites 
that  those  rocks  hold  wliere  we  have  had  an  opportunity  of  provins:^  their  ajje.  IJesides  this 
very  doubtful  testiniony.  there  is  still  another  item  of  evidence  wtiirli,  in  the  absence  of  any 
better,  should  have  some  weifrht.  Mr.  John  Xantus,  an  able  collector,  sent  from  Cape  San 
Lucas  to  the  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences,  of  Philadelphia,  a  few  fossil  oysters,  which,  if 
my  memory  does  not  deceive  nie.  belong  to  a  species  very  characteristic  of  the  Upper  Cali- 
fornian  Miocene — 0.  titan,  Conrad.  Should  I  be  correct,  this  is  important,  though  half  a 
dozen  years  is  a  long  interval,  particularly  if  one  had  never  devoted  any  especial  attention 
to  the  specimens  remembered. 

With  so  little  evidenceof  their  age,  therefore,  I  have  hesitated  about  pronouncing  a  decided 
opinion,  preferring  to  leave  it  an  open  question,  trusting  that  some  future  explorer  will  be 
more  lucky  than  myself,  and  discover  fossils  from  which  these  rocks  am  be  assigned  to  their 
proper  place  in  the  geological  scale.  In  consequence  of  the  difficulty  I  have  adopted  the 
provisional  name  of  mesa  sandstone  in  speaking  of  the  formation. 

In  addition  to  this  sandstone,  which  will  probably  be  found  to  have  a  considerable  devel- 
opment along  the  gulf  side  below  La  Paz,  tiiere  is  an  extensive  deposit  of  horizontal  gravels 
filling  or  bordering  all  of  the  valleys,  sometimes  making,  in  part  or  in  whole,  the  division 
between  them,  and  lying  unconformably  on  the  upturned  sandstones,  as  at  the  Martyres. 
This  gravel  formation  is  evidently  the  most  modern  deposit  in  the  country,  perhaps  newer 
than  the  recognized  post  pliocene  beds,  which  will  be  described  further  on  It  is  usually 
made  op  of  debris  of  the  underlying  granite,  but  in  some  places  contains  boulders  of  a  por- 
phyry closely  resembling  some  which  we  encountered  several  hundred  miles  further  north, 
overlying  post  pliocene  strata.  This  porphyry  is  most  abundant  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Mar- 
tyres,  and  from  there  northward.  In  a  few  places  the  gravel  is  replaced  by  a  fine  grairia 
sandstone,  and  is  occasionally,  though  rarely,  disturbed,  as  at  the  Cuevas,  where  it  tilted 
three  or  four  degrees.  Almost  everywhere  this  formation  takes  on  the  form  of  level  terraces, 
though  often  very  much  cut  up  by  dry  gulleys.  At  Sta.  Anita  and  at  Santiago,  Avhere  they 
are  best  developed,  these  terraces  are  about  60  feet  high  and  well  detined.  They  also  exist 
at  Todos  Santos,  and  northward  along  the  coast  for  many  miles.  At  Todos  Santos  the  main 
terrace  is  about  60  feet  in  height,  but  there  is  also  another  in  the  arroyo  of  about  half  the 
height.  The  latter  is  limited  in  extent  and  seems  to  be  very  local.  Going  northward  the 
elevation  diminishes  until  at  last  the  tabular  character  is  entirely  lost.  On  the  northern  bor- 
der of  the  mountains,  approaching  La  Paz  from  the  south,  are  encountered  for  the  first  time 
volcanic  rocks  in  place.  These  form  hills  of  from  500  to  700  feet  high,  of  volcanic  ash  over- 
laid by  beds  of  compact  porphyries  and  trachytes.  The  rocks  are  pretty  regularly  stratified 
and  mostly  dip  to  the  west  and  northwest,  though  northeast  of  La  Paz  the  disturbance  is 
general,  and  the  dip  in  every  direction.  The  ash  is  to  some  extent  quarried  fur  building 
purposes,  and  the  new  church  or  cathedral  now  iu  process  of  construction  is  being  built  of 
this  material. 

After  leaving  the  granitic  ranges  south  of  La  Paz  the  whole  appearance  of  the  country 
changes,  and  with  it  the  geological  stiiicture.  The  granite  itself  has  disapjieared,  only  to 
show  itself  as  one  or  two  insignificant  outliers,  and  in  its  place  come  enormous  deposits  of 
sandstones  forming  flat-topped  mountains,  ragged  and  precipitous  along  the  east  coast,  but 
sloping  off  so  gradually  towards  the  Pacific  as  to  merge  insensibly  into  the  broad  low  plains 
of  the  west.  Pretty  regularly  bordering  the  west  coast  and  occurring  occasionally  along 
.the  gulf  are  dejiosits  of  post  pliocene  age,  in  places  filled  with  and  almost  made  np  of  the 
casts  or  shells  of  mollusca,  .still  living  in  the  adjoining  waters.  Penetrating  both  these  form- 
ations, and  often  capping  one  or  the  other  or  both  indiscriminately,  are  deposits  of  volcanic 
origin.  These  volcanic  rocks  usually  occur  as  dikes  or  broad  superficial  sheets  which  have 
been  spread  over  the  top  of  the  mesa  subsequent  to  the  deposition  of  tin;  post  j)liocene,  and 
are  by  no  means  uniform  either  in  thickness  or  in  the  numner  of  their  distribution.  Very 
few  volcanic  cones  exist.  Almost  the  only  ones  are  the  volcano  of  the  Yirgines,  north  of 
Moleje,  and  a  .series  of  cones  and  ridges  extending  westward  te  near  San  Ignacio.  Else- 
where the  eruptions  appear  to  have  taken  place  in  the  form  of  long  fissures,  forming  dikes, 
which,  having  spread  their  surplus  over  the  surrounding  plains,  have  closed,  never  again  to 
reopen.  In  this  manner  immense  areas  liave  been  covered  with  caps  of  eruptive  rocks  often 
lOU  feet  thick,  the  source  of  which  is  now  entirely  hidden,  an  occasional  hint  only  existing 
in  the  denuded  section  of  some  blufi'  where  the  dike  has  been  cut  through  by  the  agency  of 
running  water. 

The  post  pliocene  rocks  usually  lie  on  the  lower  margins  of  the  mesa  in  such  a  maimer  as 
to  show  that  they  were  deposited  during  the  period  of  elevation  of  this  portion  of  the  penin- 
sula. The  older  mesa  sandstones  are  usually  so  little  disturbed  that  flie  two  formations  seem 
conformable,  though  sufiicient  evidence  exists  to  prove  that  the  elevating  force  had  been 
.icting  for  a  long  time  before  the  oldest  beds  of  the  newer  formation  were  deposited.  This 
later  series  consists  of  fine  grained  argillaceous  sandstones  and  shales,  some  coarser  light 
gray  sandstone,  and  lastly  a  thin  bed,  liighly  fossiliierous,  as  are  also  some  of  the  earlier 


634  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

strata,  but  the  latter  hip-hly  calcareous.  Where  the  series  remains  unbroken,  this  last  stratum 
is  always  the  hijjhest,  unci  it  is  nearly  made  up  of  the  casts  of  living  species  of  shells,  Oi>trea 
Cummingii  bciiio'  almost  the  only  one  retaining  its  structure.  At  Purissima,  on  the  west 
slope,  the  mesa  sandstones  have  been  folded  in  a  series  of  long  and  graceful  undulations, 
the  tops  denuded  to  a  nearly  straight  line,  and  the  post  pliocene  lies  unconformably  capping 
the  suriace.  On  the. opposite  side  of  the  mountains  bordering  the  gulf  there  are  still  more 
marked  instances  of  unconformability,  -which  will  be  described  in  their  proper  place. 

The  mesa  sandstones  are  easily  distinguished  from  the  overlying  rocks  by  their  coarser 
grain,  greater  compactness,  and  above  all  by  their  being  highly  metamorphosed  along  the 
greater  part  of  their  eastern  margins.  Another  marked  feature  is  the  presence  of  large  quan- 
tities of  boulders  and  pebbles  of  volcanic  roc'ks  imbedded  in  them,  sometimes  to  such  an 
extent  as  to  form  even  a  preponderance  of  the  bulk  of  some  strata.  These  boulders  are 
uniformly  small  and  very  much  rounded  near  the  west  coast  wherever  the  rock  is  encoun-' 
tered,  and  increase  iu  size  towards  the  vicinity  of  Loreto,  or  rather  towards  that  part  of  the 
coast  a  little  below  Loreto,  in  such  a  manner  as  to  point  unmistakably  to  this  region  for  their 
origin.  Not  only  does  the  size  increase,  but  in  the  same  ratio  is  the  increase  in  number  and 
the  decrease  in  the  amount  of  attrition  to  which  they  have  been  subjected.  The  lithological 
characters  vary  markedly  from  those  of  any  eruptive  rocks  encountered  in  place  on  the  penin- 
sula; no  similar  rocks  have  been  discovered  between  the  mesa  sandstones  and  the  under- 
lying granite,  and  the  only  reasonable  conclusion  which  can  bo  arrived  at  is  that  they  must 
have  been  derived  from  a  body  of  land  which  formerly  lay  in  that  region  now  occupied  by 
the  gulf,  and  somewhere  in  the  vicinity  of,  or  a  little  south  of,  Carrain  island. 

Another  striking  feature  of  this  region  is  the  peculiar  manner  of  the  elevation  of  the  mesa. 
It  has  not  been  lifted  by  an  evenly  distributed  force ;  not,  like  most  mountain  chains,  by  a 
folding  along  a  given  axis.  The  eastern  side  seems  to  have  felt  this  force  almost  alone,  the 
elevation  of  that  portion  lying  to  the  west  seeming  to  be  due  almost  as  much  to  the  rigidity 
of  the  rocks  as  to  the  extension  westward  of  the  uptilting  power.  More  properly  speaking, 
the  great  force  was  exerted  very  nearly  parallel  with  what  is  now  the  coast  line  of  the  gulf, 
and  from  there  towards  the  Pacific  this  agency  diminished  so  gradually  as  to  produce  no 
breaks  or  even  foldings  worthy  of  mention.  We  thus  have  the  whole  width  of  this  portion 
of  the  peninsula  tilted  up  by  its  edge  from  coast  to  coast,  so  that  travelling  eastward  one 
can  hardly  realize  the  rise  until,  within  15  or  20  miles  ot  the  east  coast,  he  finds  himself  on 
the  verge  of  a  precipitous  descent  of  from  2,000  to  3,000  feet  in  height.  This  eastern  escarp- 
ment extends  from  near  La  Paz  to  near  Moleje,  with  but  few  interruptions,  and  exhibits 
nearly  everywhere  the  projecting  edges  of  nearly  liorizontal  beds  ot  sandstofie,  sometimes 
unaltered,  but  usually  metamorphosed.  During  the  imperfect  examinations  which  our  lim- 
ited time  permitted  us  to  make  1  was  unable  to  determine  whether  this  sudden  cutting  otf  of 
the  otherwise  undisturbed  beds  was  due  to  a  gigantic  fault,  or  whctlier  the  eastern  slope  of 
an  anticlinal  axis  had  been  carried  away  by  denuding  agencies.  From  what  little  we  saw, 
strong  arguments  could  be  deduced  in  support  of  either  hypothesis,  but  I  prefer  leaving  the 
question  an  open  one,  content  with  having  called  the  attention  of  future  students  to  its  solu- 
tion. It  is  cei'tain,  hovrever,  that  a  well-marked  axis,  if  uot'several,  exists  further  north; 
and  even' at  the  Sauce,  near  Loreto,  the  presence  of  a  mass  of  granite  at  the  base  of  the 
Sierra  Gigantea,  evidently  exposed  by  denudation,  seems  to  point  to  this  agency  as  the  means 
of  solving  the  difficulty. 

On  the  west  side  the  post  pliocene  strata  form  a  strip  extending  from  below  Magdalena 
bay  to  near  San  'J  elnio,  with  but  very  tew  interruptions.  The  eastern  margin  of  this  belt  is 
pretty  clearly  defined  by  the  elevation  of  the  mesa,  rarely  reaching  but  a  few  hundred  feet 
above  the,  level  of  the  sea.  It  extends  to  the  coast  except  along  that  portion  Ij'iug  between 
the  bays  of  lialleuas  and  San  Sebastian,  where  the  granite  range  of  Sta.  Clara  cuts  it  off. 
On  the  east  side,  near  Loreto,  it  occurs  as  hills  several  hundred  feet  in  height,  uptilted  at 
an  angle,  as  high  in  parts  as  55°,  and  dipping  to  the  northeast.  This  disturbance  appears 
to  be  due  in  a  very  great  measure  to  the  intrusion  of  a  large  mass  of  volcanic  rocks,  which 
separate  the  more  modern  formation  from  the  mesa  sandstones.  The  belt  continues  with 
slight  interruptions  to  near  the  Sauce,  where  the  post  pliocene  sandstones,  very  full  of  fossils, 
lie  horizontally,  abutting  against  the  face  of  uptilted  mesa  sandstones,  which  are  here  highly 
metamorphic. 

Proceeding  Avcstward  a  mile  or  two,  the  older  sandstones  become  horizontal,  assuming  this 
poKition  by  a  gentle  curve,  their  edges  abutting  against  a  mass  of  granite.  Still  further  west, 
this  granite  mass  is  seen  to  underlie  thi'  undisturbed  horizontal  beds  of  the  same  sandstones, 
Avhich  make  the  great  mass  of  the  m«untain.  Dykes  of  trachytes  and  porphyries  cut  alike 
the  granite  and  sandstoiic,  and  in  a  beautifully  exposed  section  on  the  face  of  the  Gigantea, 
can  be  seen  running  entirely  to  the  surface  of  the  mountain,  over  whose  flat  top  they  have 
spread  a  rocky  mantle,  which  extends  almost  to  the  plains  of  the  Pacific. 

Space  forbids  mo  to  describt;  in  tletail  all  of  the  minuter  features  of  the  geology  of  the 
country.  Suffice  it  here  to  say  that  except  the  retreating  of  the  summit  from  the  coast  above 
Moleje,  and  the  presence  of  the  belt  of  volcanic  cones  from  San  Iguacio  to  the  volcano  of 
Las  Virgines,  there  are  no  matters  of  special  interest,  until  wo  reach  Sta.  Gertrudis,  over 
70  miles  above  San  Ignacio,  and  just  west  of  the  summit  of  the  range.  Here  a  mass  of 
granite  appears  in  the  bottom  of  an  arroyo,  very  similar  iu  character  to  that  at  the  Sauce. 


WEST   OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  635 

The  ovpvlyinp^  sandstonos  an'  not  tlistuibed  by  it,  but  Ho  hoiizontiilly  over  it,  or  abut  apainst 
the  irregularities  of  its  suiface.  Northward  from  Sta.  Gertrudis  the  mesa  saudstoues  almost 
disappear,  except  iu  the  higher  mountains  to  the  east.  In  this  rcffion  they  seem  to  retain 
their  former  tliickuess,  but  little  abated  to  near  the  bay  of  San  Luis,  where  very  much 
metamorphosed,  disturbed  and  uptilted,  they  gradually  run  out  in  a  series  of  low  ridges. 
Very  soon  after  leaving  Sta.  Gertrudis,  on  the  road  to  San  Borja,  tiiesc  rocks  thin  out,  cup- 
ping only  a  portion  of  the  higher  mountains,  the  great  mass  of  the  country  being  granite. 
The  other  stratified  rocks,  botli  post  pliocene  and  volcanic,  at  times  occupj'  similar  posi- 
tions, and  sometimes  the  whole  three  are  found  in  their  regular  sequence  on  the  summit  of 
the  same  hill.  The  volcanic,  however,  has  been  all  of  this  time  gaining  ground,  while  the 
others  are  losing,  and  eventually  at  the  Paraiso,  and  over  the  adjoining  mesa,  it  is  the  only 
rock  found  capping  the  granite.  At  Trinidad  and  near  Rosarito,  below  San  Borja,  a  few 
outliers  of  post  pliocene  form  hills  :200  and  300  feet  high,  resting  on  granite,  and  usually 
c-apped  by  volcanic  rocks.  Again,  at  San  Andres  forming  low,  flat  hills,  underlying  the 
valley  of  San  Andres,  and  formmg  the  broad  plains  of  Sta.  Ana,  we  have  the  post  pliocene 
extremely  developed  and  extending  to  and  abutting  against  the  highly  uptilted  mesa  sand- 
stones at  Calnumjuit.  Bordering  the  northern  edge  of  the  mesa  of  Sta.  Ana,  and  north 
of  the  bay  of  San  Luis,  extending  almost  from  coast  to  coast  is  a  mass  of  granite,  which 
rises  at  Sta.  JIana  to  a  height  of  about  3.000  feet,  and  is  here  capped  by  thin  beds  of  the 
same  sandstones,  which  form  the  plain  of  Sta.  Ana.  In  most  cases  this  sandstone  on  the 
summit  of  the  mountains  is  capped  with  a  thin  deposit  of  volcanic  rocks.  The  same  structure 
appears  to  continue  northward,  as  well  as  we  could  determine  at  a  distance,  as  far  as  the 
range  could  be  seen.  Going  westward  towards  San  Fernando  the  valleys  were  at  first  all 
scooped  out  in  granite,  the  higher  hills  being  formed  at  Sta.  Maria;  but  by  their  steadily 
diminishing  height,  the  post  pliocene  first,  and  eventually  the  volcanic  rocks  reached  the 
plains,  and  the  granite  disappeared.  Crossing  the  plains  of  Bnena  Vista,  the  road  enters 
the  mountains  of  the  west  side,  near  San  Fernando,  and  we  found  the  structure  somewhat 
ditlerent  from  anything  we  had  encountered  further  south.  The  structure  is  essentially  that 
of  a  broad  granite  core,  flanked  by  stratified  volcanic  rocks,  with  many  beds  of  ash,  and  not 
nnfreqnently  uptilted  at  high  angles.  This  is  the  case  on  both  sides  of  the  chain,  and  con- 
tinues to  beyond  San  Diego.  AVestward,  beyond  the  volcanic  rocks,  and  adjoining  the  coast, 
is  a  broad  belt  of  horizontal  post  pliocene  beds,  which,  with  occasional  interruptions,  extends 
to  and  even  beyond  San  Diego,  being  cut  off  several  times  where  the  crystalline  rocks  reach 
the  coast.  We  had  no  opportunity  of  examining  the  geology  of  the  eastern  side  of  the  range, 
north  of  San  Fernando,  but  I  have  no  reason  to  suppose  that  any  changes  of  importance 
take  place  in  that  region.  From  Rosario,  where  the  road  reaches  the  west  coast,  after  passing 
through  San  Fernando,  our  route  lay  along  the  western  flank  of  the  mountain,  sometimes 
on  the  beach,  sometimes  across  the  late  tertiary  tables,  and  occasionally  through  the  rocky 
foot-hills  of  the  range.  There  was  no  important  variation  from  the  structure  described 
above  along  the  route,  except  at  the  salt  ponds  of  San  Quentiu,  where  there  is  an  isolated 
group  of  low  hills,  composed  of  a.  dark  gray,  cellular  trachyte,  much  of  it  filled  with  rests 
of  olivene,  and  some  parts  having  an  obscure  basaltiform  tendency.  These  hills  have 
no  obvious  connection  with  the  main  range,  and  the  rocks  of  which  they  are  composed  are 
en:irely  ditlerent  from  any  rocks  of  i  similar  origin  encountered  elsewhere. 

VAitiors  RF..SOUUCES  OF  THE  Teruitoky — Mixing. — "Prospecting"  has  been  canied 
on  over  the  whole  length  and  breadth  of  the  country,  but,  on  the  whole,  without  very  marked 
success.  In  the  mica  slate  range  of  the  south,  valuable  silver  mines  have  been  found,  and 
in  the  frontiers  a  single  mine  of  copper  has  been  opened,  which  promises  well. 

Of  gold  mines  there  have  been  many,  but  at  tke  present  time  not  one  is  being  worked.  In 
the  granite  hills  near  Cape  San  Lucas  gold  has  been  undoubtedly  found,  but  it  seems  that 
the  quantity  was  very  small,  and  the  locality  is  now  forgotten.  Further  north,  about  Sau 
Antonio  there  has  been  some  placer  mining  on  a  small  scale.  Women  have  washed  the 
gravel  of  the  arioyo  in  bateas  or  wooden  bowls,  obtaining  a  pittance  per  day,  and  the  custom 
has  been  kept  up  during  the  rainy  seasons  from  time  immemorial.  Some  foreigners  who 
desired  to  build  a  dam  and  wash  out  the  arroyo  at  once,  were  refused  permission  by  the 
authorities,  on  the  ground  that  it  would  deprive  the  women  of  their  time-honored  privileges. 
In  the  granite  mountains  from  Sta.  Gertrudis  to  San  Borja,  and  even  in  the  mctainorphic 
sandstones,  almost  as  fur  south  as  San  Ignacio,  there  are  innumerable  tunnels,  shafts,  and 
"coyote  holes,"  where  attempts  have  been  made  to  find  paying  quartz  mines.  They  are 
now,  without  exception,  abandoned.  In  most  cases  the  veins  were  found  to  l)e  unreliable, 
mere  pockets  or  strings,  and  oven  in  these  the  quantity  of  gold  was  not  sufiicient  to  pay  for 
working. 

Similar  attempts  have  been  made  to  discover  or  develop  silver  mines.  These  are  reported 
as  existing  about  Sau  Borja,  on  the  island  of  the  Guardian  Angel,  on  the  main  land  opposite 
this  islaml,  on  the  island  of  Margarita,  and  iu  numberless  other  places,  none  of  which  have 
ever  yielded  anything  nor  pmbably  ever  will. 

About  45  miles  below  La  Paz  is  the  mining  district  of  Triunfo  and  San  Antonio.  Here 
there  are  several  veins  known,  only  one  or  two  of  which  have  been  sufficiently  developed  to 
form  a  jjositive  opinion  as  to  their  value.  Mining  has  been  carried  on  on  all  of  the  veins 
since  the  time  of  the  missionaries,  but  only  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  the  decomposed 


636  RESOURCES   OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

surface  ores,  which  could  be  amalgamated  without  roasting.  The  result  of  this  kind  of  work 
has  been  to  expose  the  veins  along  the  greater  part  of  their  course  by  series  of  shallow  pits 
honey-combing  the  surface  and  rendering  travelling  across  the  hills  rather  perilous  to  a 
stranger.  These  ores  (called  "  azoque,"  or  quicksilver  metal, )  were  worked  in  arrastras  and 
amalgamated  without  difficulty,  the  silver  existing  in  its  metallic  state,  freed  by  decomposi- 
tion of  the  sulphurets.  As  soon  as  the  excavations  reached  the  unaltered  ores  of  the  deeper 
part  of  the  vein,  known  as  "fire-metal,"  they  were  abandoned  and  new  openings  made. 
About  9  or  10  years  ago,  however,  systematic  work  was  undertaken,  by  a  company  from 
Mazatlan,  on  a  couple  of  mines  called  the  San  Pedros  and  San  Nicholas.  Thej'  have  a  body 
of  good  ore  varying  from  lb  inches  to  three  feet,  mostly  of  excellent  quality,  and  have  been, 
for  a  number  of  years  past,  in  the  habit  of  shipping  their  first-class  ore  to  Germany.  The 
material  shipped  averages  over  $100  per  ton  of  silver,  and  the  expenses  of  mining,  freight, 
and  everything,  up  to  the  time  of  delivery  in  Freiberg,  amounts  to  about  $70.  This  is  too 
much;  the  ore  could  be  worked  on  the  spot  at  a  greatly  diminished  expense,  and  if  the  com- 
pany had  their  own  mill  they  could  work  inferior  ores,  too  poor  for  shipment,  and  which  are 
now  thrown  away.  The  manner  in  which  the  mines  are  worked  is  execrable,  the  person  in 
charge  having  hardly  an  idea  of  the  first  principles  of  mining  engineering. 

On  the  same  vein,  three  or  four  miles  south,  are  the  mines  of  the  Triunfo  Company.  They 
possess  four  mines  on  this  vein  and  three  on  another  adjoining  to  and  parallel  with  the  first. 
Of  these  two  have  been  well  opened  and  are  yielding  the  ore  now  being  worked  at  the  mill. 
The  two  are  the  Mendocena  and  Molineiia.  The  former  is  on  the  summit  of  a  ridge,  and 
was  first  opened  by  an  inclined  shaft  or  slope  on  the  vein.  The  slope,  rarely  higher  than 
20°,  was,  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  about  .^50  feet  deep,  with  five  levels  running  each  way 
from  50  to  300  feet.  The  vein  is  from  8  to  15  feet  Avide,  and  throughout  carries  a  body  of 
ore  averaging  about,  if  not  over,  four  feet.  The  lower  50  feet  of  the  vein  had  a  body  nearer 
five  than  four  feet.  The  ore  does  not  lie  in  chimneys,  but  in  a  continuous  sheet,  extremely 
uniform  both  in  thickness  and  quality.  It  is  a  compound  of  various  sulphurets,  in  which 
antimony  and  lead  predominate.  From  a  series  of  carefully  made  assays,  Mr  Lohr  reports 
that  the  average  ores,  such  as  are  being  worked  at  the  mill,  contain  from  $90  to  $124  per 
tOH,  while  picked  specimens  assayed  as  high  as  $225.  In  the  Mendocena  mine  alone  we 
computed  that  there  was  ore  enough  exposed  on  the  various  levels  to  keep  the  present  24- 
stamp  mill  running  for  over  five  years,  working  20  tons  per  day.  Over  900  tons  of  ore  were 
stacked  at  the  mill  waiting  for  reduction,  and  on  entering  the  mine  we  could  hardly  tell 
whence  it  had  been  taken.  Most  of  it  had  really  been  obtained  while  doing  what  is  usually 
counted  "  dead  work"  in  the  mine — sinking  the  slope  and  running  the  galleries.  The  Moli- 
neiia is  on  the  same  vein  and  adjoining  the  Mendocena,  taking  in  the  side  of  the  hill.  A 
tunnel  was  being  run  on  the  vein  here,  intended  to  strike  the  base  of  the  slope  of  the  Men- 
docena and  form  its  seventh  level.  By  this  means  a  large  amount  of  hoisting  will  be  avoided 
and  all  necessity  for  pumping  obviated.  The  other  mines  of  the  company  are  being  opened 
slowly.  One  on  the  adjoining  vein  has  already  yielded  considerable  ore,  of  a  character  differ- 
ent from  the  other  vein.  In  it  zinc  predominates,  and  the  ore  is  said  to  be  much  less  refrac- 
tory than  that  from  the  Mendoceiia.  This  company  started  with  a  10-stamp  mill,  and  having 
ascertained  the  proper  method  of  working  their  ores,  replaced  it  by  one  of  24  stauips,  whicli 
was  receiving  the  finishing  touches  as  we  started  on  our  way  northward.  Since  then  the 
news  has  been  perfectly  satisfactory.  The  last  two  steamers  have  brought  to  San  Francisco 
bullion  to  the  value  of  upwards  of  $30,000,  as  the  result  of  about  six  weeks'  actual  working 
of  the  ores.  The  company,  in  justice  to  itself,  should  at  least  double  its  mill  capacity'  imme- 
diately. 

Besides  these  mines,  which  I  have  described  somewhat  in  detail,  because  they  are  the  only 
ones  on  which  work  was  being  actively  prosecuted,  there  are  many  more  on  the  same  veins 
which  iiave  been  partially  developed,  and  show  every  evidence  of  value.  Among  these 
might  be  mentioned  more  particularly  the  Sta.  Maria,  the  Soledad,  and  the  Fortuna.  la 
eacli  of  these  are  good  bodies  of  ore,  identical  in  character  with  the  Mendocena  or  the  Mexi- 
can mines.  I  cannot  here  give  a  catalogue  of  all  the  mines  which  are  known  or  supposed  to 
bo  valuable ;  suffice  it  to  say  that  many  others  have  been  opened,  and  the  time  will  doubtless 
come  when  they  will  be  all  thoroughly  proven.  Labor,  wood,  salt,  and,  in  fact,  all  the  acces- 
sories for  the  mining  and  reduction  of  silver  ores,  are  cheajier  heve  than  in  upper  California  i 
or  Nevada,  and  as  soon  as  Lower  California  shall  have  fulfilled  her  manifest  destiny  a  new 
era  of  life  and  activity  must  spring  up  here,  and  make  this  one  of  the  most  productive  silver  f 
districts  on  the  coast. 

Copper,  like  gold,  is  reported  from  nearly  everj'  part  of  the  Territory;  numberless  mines 
have  been  opened  and  invariably  abandoned.  The  Delphina  mine  is  the  only  one  that  seems 
at  all  promising.  This  mine  is.  in  the  northwestern  part,  between  San  Telmo  and  Sta. 
Tomas.  The  princii)al  work  is  a  shaft  about  150  feet  deep,  which  we  did  not  examine,  fear- 
ing the  presence  of  gas  at  its  bottom.  There  being  nobody  present  who  knew  the  mine,  we 
did  not  feel  inclined  to  run  any  risks.  On  the  surface,  however,  there  has  also  been  consid? 
erable  work,  and  the  vein  appears  in  a  cut,  over  50  feet  deep,  to  be  very  well  defined,  vihh 
distinct  walls  and  from  five  to  seven  feet  wide.  The  ores,  (of  course  surface  ores,)  oxides, 
and  carbonates  are  usually  rich  and  abundant.  Between  300  and  400  sacks  are  stacked  at 
|tbe  uiiue  ready  for  shipment,  and  I  have  been  informed  that  seveial  hundred  sacks  more  of 


WEST    OF    THE    KOCKY   MOUNTAINS.  637 

the  sanip  cliaracter  are  at  San  IsiJro,  the  shippina:  ]ioint,  awaithifr  a  rise  in  the  market  price 
of  copper,  so  tliat  the  proprietors  caii  sell  witlioiit  sacrilice.  Of  eourse  it  is  impossible  to 
prophesy  the  future  of  a  copper  mine  on  the  character  of  its  surface  ores,  but  it  is  claimed 
<that.  so  far  as  the  work  has  gone,  the  vein  lias  not  chaur^ecl  materially  in  character. 

Baser  metals  exist,  also,  in  the  Territory,  but  there  has  never  been  any  active  search  mado 
for  them,  and  many  a  year  must  elapse  before  they  can  become  valuable.  Coal  has  been 
reported  in  a  few  places  where  it  does  not  exist.  It  is  said  to  be  found  near  the  Ojo  de  Lie- 
brc  :  it  may  be  that  some  "  brea  "  or  asphaltum  is  found  there  and  the  two  minerals  confounded, 
a  mistake  that  has  olttni  occurred  in  Upper  California. 

Salt  occurs  in  almost  innumerable  localities,  but  there  are  three  spots  which  are  noted  both 
for  the  quantity  and  quality  of  the  mineral  there  obtained.  These  are  San  Quentin,  Ojo  do 
Liebre,  and  Carmin  island,  in  the  Gulf.  We  did  not  visit  either  of  the  latter  places,  but, 
contented  ourselves  with  examining  the  ponds  of  San  Quentin.  These  ponds  or  little  lakes, 
half  a  dozen  in  number,  vary  in  area  from  one  to  five  acres.  They  are  situated  near  the 
coast  among:  a  number  of  sand  hills,  and  separated  from  the  beach  only  by  low  ridgjes  of 
sand.  Tliey  are  quite  shallow,  and  the  salt  crystallizes  on  the  mud  flats  on  their  margins  in 
flakes  of  half  an  inch  or  more  in  thickness.  15y  a  dexterous  motion  this  salt  is  lifted,  unsoiled 
from  its  soft  bed,  thrown  into  heaps,  whence  it  is  carried  to  the  vessel.  At  present  the  place 
is  abandoned.  The  royalty  required  by  the  Mexican  government,  the  cost  of  collecting, 
hauling,  and  shipping,  and  the  high  United  States  tariff  on  imported  salt,  in  the  aggregate 
amount  to  so  nearly  the  price  of  the  material  in  San  Francisco  as  to  completely  eat  up  all 
profits,  and  thus  eli'ectually  close  the  only  market  to  which  this  salt  can  be  taken. 

Sulphur  is  found  in  moderate  quantities  near  Moleje,  and  is  said  to  be  very  abundant  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  volcano  of  the  Virgines. 

Gypsum,  generally  in  its  crystallized  form  of  selenite,  occurs  in  many  places  in  the  post- 
pliocene  rocks,  or  weathered  out  from  them  and  scattei-ed  over  the  soil.  It  also  occurs  near 
Moleje,  but  not  in  the  enormous  quantities  which  have  been  reported  by  interested  parties. 

AGRicn/ri  KK. — The  climate  of  Lower  California  is  so  mild  that  all  the  usually  cultivated 
plants  of  both  tropical  and  temperate  countries  grow  side  by  side  in  the  open  fields.  The 
lowest  temperature  we  eucoimtered  in  four  of  the  coldest  months  of  the  year  was  bl°  Fahren- 
heit, and  the  winter  averages  from  i»P  to  70*^,  so  far  as  our  own  experience  went.  Sev- 
eral species  of  palms  are  native,  and  the  date  grows  wild,  thoroughly  acclimatized.  Plan- 
tains and  bananas,  figs,  oranges,  olives,  lemons,  limes,  pomegranates,  peaches,  and,  in  the 
northern  parts,  even  apples  grow  and  flourish,  requiring  but  little  care  when  first  set  out  and 
none  afterwards.  Vineyards  exist  everywhere,  and  the  native  wine  is  infinitely  superior  in 
quality  to  that  of  Upper  California.  Fields  of  sugar-cane  are  too  common  to  excite  remark, 
and  the  manufacture  of  sugar  is  one  of  the  most  important  interests  of  the  southern  part  of 
the  peninsula.  Tobacco  and  cotton  are  cultivated  iu  various  places,  especially  in  the  valleys 
south  of  La  Paz,  and  over  more  than  half  the  Territorj'  wild  cotton  is  as  common  a  weed  as 
is  the  Jamestown  weed  (stramonium)  at  home.  The  castor  beau  grows  wild,  a  perennial 
tree  with  a  woody  trunk,  and  melons  are  so  abundant  that  during  their  season  they  make 
the  greater  ])art  of  the  food  of  the  people  in  some  districts. 

The  principal  agricultural  regions  are  as  follows  :  The  vicinity  of  San  Jos6  del  Cabo  and 
along  nearly  the  whole  of  the  valley  and  its  branches.  Here  wine,  sugar,  dried  fruits,  cot- 
ton, and  tobacco  are  the  principal  products.  The  cane  fields  extend  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach  from  San  Jose,  and  there  is  still  plenty  of  unoccupied  land,  onlj'  requiring  the  digging 
of  ditches  to  vender  it  available.  This  is  necessary,  as  everywhere  else  iu  Lowt-r  and  in 
many  parts  ot  Upper  California.  On  account  of  the  rains  being  confined  to  the  wet  season, 
the  dry  season  being  literally  so,  vegetation  requires  artificial  assistance.  Santa  Anita,  12 
miles  up  the  valley  from  San  Jose,  is  a  lovely  ^pot,  connected  Avith  San  Jose  by  an  almost 
continuous  line  of  gardetis,  and  beyond  it  are  ranches  scattered  along  on  every  piece  of  bot- 
tom land,  to  the  head  of  the  valley.  Santiago  is  a  little  group  of  houses  surrounded  by 
similar  farms  and  gardens,  a  sugar-mill  or  two  being  engaged  at  the  time  of  our  visit  in  fin- 
ishing the  work  begun  by  the  farmer.  Miratiores,  Las  Palmas,  Los  Martyres,  S  m  Bartolo, 
and  numberless  other  spots  prove  that  when.ver  an  acre  or  tw»  of  level  land,  or  even  hillside, 
can  be  irrigated,  the  yield  is  such  as  to  make  a  farmer  from  the  Atlantic  States  ojien  his  eyes 
in  amazement.  We  Califoiuians  are  so  accustomed  to  large  crops  and  to  seeing  nature  on  an 
exaggerated  scale  that  we  could  bear  it  with  a  commendable  degree  of  equanimity.  About 
San  Antonio  are  many  pretty  little  patches  of  ground,  which  will  one  day  be  cultivated,  as 
•well  as  many  spots  on  the  road  to  and  in  the  vicinity  of  La  Paz. 

Todos  Santo  lias  a  valley  of  one  or  two  square  miles,  most  of  which  is  planted  in  canes, 
vineyards,  and  orchards,  and  every  year  yields  a  fine  revenue  to  the  owners. 

Many  little  valleys  and  nooks  exist  among  the  granite  mountains  of  the  south,  .still  unoc- 
cupied, and  which  will  one  day  be  brought  into  cultivation. 

On  the  west  coast,  bordering  the  northern  part  of  the  Bay  of  Magdalena,  and  the  long 
arm  which  extends  northward,  are  extensive  plains,  nearly  level,  rising  insensibly  to  the 
east,  and,  iu  great  part,  covered  with  a  rich  soil.  The.se  plains,  almost  throughout,  destitute 
of  the  scattered  stones  on  the  surface  which  render  so  much  land  on  the  peninsula  valuele.ss, 
are  covered  with  a  dense  vegetatioo,  of  which  the  larger  species  of  the  cactus  make  a  great 
part.     There  is  no  water  on  the  surface,  and  this  fact  alone  has  prevented  their  settlement  by 


638  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

anative  population.  As  soon,  however,  as  land  shall  become  valuable  this  "monte"  or  "bmsh" 
will  he  cleared  off,  wells  du^,  and  nearly  the  whole  tract  will  be  cultivated.  Water  of  good 
quality  and  unlimited  in  quantity  can  be  obtained  by  shallow  wells  ;  the  sea  breezes  will 
supply  the  liftin<3^  power,  and  a  population  greater  than  can  now  be  found  from  San  Dieg^ 
to  the  cape  can  here  find  comfortable  homes  and  an  abundant  subsistence.  South  of  Loreto 
is  a  similar  but  much  smaller  tract,  which  also,  like  the  former,  has  an  excellent  harbor  of  its 
own.  Among  the  table  mountains  are  San  Luis,  Comondii,  Piirissima,  San  Ignacio,  and  a 
dozen  smaller  spots,  some  of  which  are  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  while  others  are  capable 
of  it  were  there  life  enough  in  the  people  to  urge  them  to  it.  Purissima  alone  ships  a  thou- 
sand cargoes  of  dried  fruits  annually,  not  to  mention  large  quantities  of  wine  and  sugar. 

Comondu  has  several  sugar-mills  occupied  the  whole  season,  and  the  thousands  of  date 
and  fig  trees  of  San  Ignacio  fairly  force  their  treasures  into  the  hands  of  an  indolent  and 
worthless  set  of  proprietors.  The  unappreciative  and  ignorant  laziness  of  these  miserable 
people  is  enough  to  keep  a  live  man,  passing  through  their  country,  in  a  healthy  and  almost 
chronic  state  ot  indignation.  But  one  result  can  follow  the  American  acquisition  of  Lower 
California — the  indolent  mongrel  race  forming  its  population  must  give  way  l)efore  the 
enlightened  energy  and  restlessness  of  our  own  people,  as  it  has  done  in  Upper  California  and 
Texas  :  and  Anglo-American  enterprise  will,  within  a  decade,  render  this  Territory  more  val- 
uable than  would  Mexican  laziness  in  a  century. 

North  of  San  Ignacio  there  is  but  little  of  value  in  an  agricultural  point  of  view  until,  hav- 
ing passed  Santa  Gertrudis  and  San  Borja,  we  arrive  at  the  broad  and  uninhabited  valley 
of  San  Andres.  This  valley,  with  the  adjoining  plains  of  Santa  Ana,  should,  perhaps,  be 
rather  classed  with  the  grazing  than  the  agricultural  lands.  The  only  water  existing  nat- 
urally on  the  surface  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  valley,  where  there  is  a  lake  of  brackish  water 
more  than  half  a  mile  long  even  in  the  dryest  seasons.  Animals  drink  it  freely, and  the  grass 
in  the  valley  seemed  unlimited.  From  the  position  of  the  rocks  it  is  certain  that  water  could 
be  obtained  by  wells,  and  usually,  in  localities  like  this,  the  well  water  is  good  even  when 
that  of  the  ponds  is  undrinkable.  With  wells  and  windmills  several  square  miles  of  excellent 
land  could  be  here  brought  under  cultivation,  while  an  almost  unlimited  quantity  of  stock 
could  find  pasture  on  the  adjoining  plains,  or  in  the  unoccupied  portions  of  the  valley.  Fur- 
ther north  are  the  plains  of  Buena  Vista,  in  which  there  is  no  known  water,  but  the  remarks 
on  San  Andres  will,  with  slight  modification,  be  applicable  here  also.  In  the  mountains 
adjoining  these  plains  is  the  deserted  mission  of  San  Fernando.  The  traces  of  former  culti- 
vation still  exist,  and  a  few  hundred  dollars  would  be  sufficient  to  repair  the  irrigating  ajipa- 
ratus,  so  as  to  bring  over  100  acres  of  good  land  into  condition  for  planting. 

From  San  Fernando  ttf  the  boundary  most  of  the  arable  land  is  in  the  possession  of  private 
individuals,  though  some  tracts  still  exist  as  public  property,  subject  to  denouncement,  which 
are  by  no  means  to  be  despised. 

After  passing  St.  Tomas  we  saw  cereals  growing  without  irrigations  and  with  promise 
of  excellent  crops.  Wheat,  barle}',  and  oats  were  noticed,  the  former  with  full,  large  heads 
and  short  stalks.  Potatoes  and  apples,  adjoining  a  grain  field,  on  the  Guadalupe  ranch, 
reminded  us  of  home,  but  looked  incongruous,  associated  with  olives  and  tigs  and  overshad- 
owed bj-  one  or  two  tall  and  graceful  tan  palms. 

GUAZIKG. — Lower  California,  as  a  whole,  can  never  be  very  promising  as  a  stock  country. 
Except  in  the  extreme  northern  portions,  the  thorny  nature  of  the  undergrowth  must  pre- 
vent the  successful  raising  of  sheep  for  wool  pui-poses,  though  mutton  sheep  would  succeed 
admirably  were  there  a  market  for  them.  Horses,  cattle  and  nmlcs  thrive.  Tbe  commoa 
forage  plant  is  the  well-known  "  bunch  grass  "  so  common  over  the  whole  Pacific  slope.  If 
is  not  until  after  leaving  San  Borja  that  the  alfalfa  bmr  and  other  clnvejs,  alfilerillo  and  other 
Upper  Caliiinnia  plants,  acquire  anj'  importance.  In  the  south,  where  severe  droughts  are 
not  unconunon,  and  where,  at  times,  the  grass  disappears  entirely,  stock  does  not  suffer. 
Here  tail  aTiimals  tare  the  best.  Several  trees  of  the  acacia  family,  which  never  suffer  from 
drought,  wliicli  grow  everywhere,  and  on  which  animals  feed  with  avidit}-,  these  take  the 
place  of  the  ordinar}' pasture.  The  principal  of  tlict-eave  the  mesquiteaud  lipua.  We  camped 
repeatedly  whore  there  was  hardly  a  blade  of  grass  in  sight,  and  yet  our  mules  had  all  the 
feed  they  wanted. 

The  high  mesa  lands  about  the  summit  of  the  Gigantea,  and  again  between  Sta.  Gertrudi's 
and  San  iSoija,  are  said  to  be  never  affected  by  drought.     The  constant  fogs  keep  the  grass 
green  nearly  the  entire  year,  and  cattle  flourish  here  no  matter  how  dry  the  season  may  be  . 
elsewhere.     Still  further  north,  between  Kosario  and  San  Diego,  the  country  is  so  nearly 
like  Upper  California,  and  is  subject  to  so  nearly  the  same  climatic  laws,  that  it  properly  . 
belonj^'s  with  the  Southern  Coast  K'auge  section  of  the  State.     It  is  a  series  of  valleys  scattered  \ 
tinough  the  niouutains,  pretty  well  watered,  and  sharing  the  fortunes  of  California,  good  and 
bad  seasons. 

Fisiii:rtu:s. — Along  the  coasts,  especially  on  the  Pacific  sides,  the  whale  fishery  is  an 
important  interest.  Alost  of  the  large  bays,  more  particularly  Alagdalena,  and  Scammon's 
and  San  Ignacio  lagoons,  are  visited  by  vessels  year  after  year  in  search  of  whales,  which 
frequent  these  waters,  probabl}'  for  breeding.  Theie  are,  perhaps,  as  many  as  from  12  to  20 
vessels  engaged  annually  in  this  branch  of  enterprise.  Seal  fishing  has  also  attracted  some 
little  attention,  though  not  as  much  as  it  merits.     Myriads  of  seals  and  sea-lions  line  the 


1740 9,000,00U 

1770 12,0(10,000 

1790 lil,r.Oii,()00 

1800 *2-^U00,000 


AboutlSlO $19,000,000 

1815 7,000,000 

tl8-20 10,000,000 

|]8il 18,000,000 


The  amount  coined  in  1825  was  S8,000,000  ;  in  1835,  $11,000,000  ;  in  1845,  $15,000,000; 
in  ISfiG,  ^$19,000,000;  and  from  1821  to  18ri6,  82,(;:JP,745,95I. 

The  oponiiig:  of  all  the  ports  of  the  country  to  commerce,  the  great  reduction  in  the  price 
of  quicksilver  caused  by  the  large  production  of  the  New  Almaden  mines  in  California,  and 
the  gradual  increase  of  educated  engineers  and  of  mining  machinery,  have  brought  up  the 
production  of  the  country  to  a  higher  figure  than  that  reached  at  the  beginning  of  the  century — 
that  is,  in  years  of  comparative  peace  and  order,  such,  for  instance,  as  most  of  those  from 
le5<Jto  18G0. 

If  Mexico  had  a  government  as  good  as  that  of  Chili,  and  had  railroad  communication 
from  Vera  Cruz  and  Mazatian  to  all  the  principal  mining  districts,  and  were  protected  against 
the  Apaches,  the  production  would  at  least  double  within  ten  years. 

The  argentiferous  region  of  Mexico  is  a  long  triangle,  800  miles  long  from  southeast  to 
northwest,  ^50  miles  wide  at  the  base  on  the  uoUhern  boundary,  having  the  city  of  Oajaca 
for  its  southern  point. 

Nearly  all  the  mining  districts  of  any  note  are  from  4,000  to  9,000  feet  above  the  sea.  The 
great  elevation  counteracts  the  tonnd  influence  of  the  latitude,  and  many  of  the  mining  towns 
have  very  cool  climates. 

*Duport,  p.  193.  tlb.,194.  :ib..p.  190.   .        § Lcmprieie,  p.  214. 


r 


WEST  OF  THE  EOCKY  MOUNTAINS.  639 

shores  and  fall  an  easy  prey  to  the  hunter.  On  the  gulf  side  the  pearl  fisheries  have  been 
among  the  most  famous  in  the  world  for  more  than  a  century.  Ever  since  its  commence- 
ment, the  anjiunl  yield  has  averaged  about  $'.'5, 000  per  year,  and  it  is  still  carried  on,  but  with 
diminished  activity. 

Coxci.irsiox.— By  reading  the  foregoing  imperfect  sketch  it  will  bo  seen  that  while  Lower 
California  is  by  no  means  the  faultless  country  it  might  be ;  while  by  tar  the  greater  portion 
«an  never  be  made  available  for  either  mining,  agricultural,  grazing  or  any  utlier  j)urposcs  ; 
while  its  mines  are  few,  its  agricultural  lands  limited,  and  its  supply  of  water  small,  still  its 
position,  its  liarbors,  its  climate,  and  its  resources  are  sufficient  to  give  it  a  real  intrinsic 
value.  From  its  position  with  relation  to  Upper  California,  it  is  much  more  an  appendage 
to  this  State  than  to  Mexico,  out  of  sight  across  the  "  Sea  of  Cortez."     It  commands  the  • 

mouth  of  the  Colorado,  and  thus  affects  the  trade  of  tlic  great  interior  basin  east  of  the  Sierra  ^■'^ 
Nevada.  Its  harbors  are  neither  few  nor  small,  and  they  have  a  direct  value  with  reference 
to  our  trade  and  navy  in  the  Central  Pacific.  Its  agricultural  products  can  be  increased  in 
quantit}- ;  its  fisheries  are,  as  yet,  in  their  infancy,  and  its  mines  alone  would  be  sufficient 
reason  for  its  acquisition  by  the  United  States.  Further,  everywhere  outside  of  the  moral 
influence  of  La  Paz,  the  seat  of  government,  tlie  people  are  earnestly  in  favor  of  annexation, 
and  I  am  by  no  means  certain  that  a  popular  vote  on  the  question  would  not  result  in  a 
decided  majority  in  favor  of  such  a  measure. 

MEXICO. 

Mining  in  Mexico. — Mexico  is  peculiarly  a  mining  country,  and  indeed  it  has  no  industry 
worthy  of  note  save  mining.  The  exportation  of  agricultural  produ'"ts  and  manufactured 
articles  does  not  average  75  cents  annually  to  the  inhabitant,  while  in  highly  civilized  states 
the  average  is  from  §10  to  $50. 

All  the  past  and  present  importance  of  Mexico  in  the  commercial  world  is  due  to  its  silver, 
which  attracted  the  Spaniards  to  the  country  and  fixed  there  and  determined  the  location  of 
their  towns.  With  the  exception  of  the  capital,  to  which,  of  course,  the  wealthy  men 
resorted  to  spend  their  money,  Puebla  and  Guadalajara,  manufacturing  towns,  and  Vera 
Cruz  and  Mazatlan,  seaports,  all  the  largest  towns  were  built  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of 
the  mines,  or  in  the  agricultural  districts  nearest  the  mines.  Guanajuato  was  a  place  of 
minor  note  till  its  great  mineral  wealth  was  discovered  in  the  middle  of  the  last  century,  and 
then  it  suddenly  rose  to  be  the  second  city  of  the  country,  and  the  adjacent  plains  of  Bajio 
at  the  same  time  grew  rich  by  agriculture ;  and  in  the  same  way  the  mining  town  of  Zaca- 
tecas  and  the  agricultural  district  of  Aguas  Calientes  grew  up  side  by  side.  Dura.ngo, 
Chihuahua,  San  Luis  Potosi,  Alamos,  and  hundreds  of  others  of  less  note  are  strictly  mining 
towns. 

The  total  registered  yield  of  the  mines  of  Mexico  from  1521  to  180.3  is  reported  by  Hum- 
boldt at  $1,707,952,000,  and  he  thinks  that  an  allowance  of  one-seventh  should  be  made  for 
the  unregistered  yield,  giving  a  total  of  $2,027,952,000.  Ward  estimates  the  quantity  pro- 
duced from  1810  to  1825  at  §159,255,840.  According  to  Whitney  the  yield  of  Mexico,  pre- 
vious to  1845,  was  $2,700,000,000;  and  if  we  allow  an  average  of'$20,00n,0U0  for  each  of  the 
22  succeeding  years,  we  have  a  total  yield  (»f  1:5,140,000,000  from  1521  to  the  end  of  1865. 

The  average  annual  yield  of  the  mines  of  Mexico  was  as  follows,  at  various  periods : 

About  1700 $5,400,000 


640  EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

In  mo?t  of  the  distriets  poipbyrj'  is  fonnd  with  micaceous  schists,  and  the  conjunctions  of 
those  two  loelts  with  quartz  veins  is  considered  an  indication  of  silver. 

The  mode  of  miuinjj  generally  is  very  rude.  No  mine  is  accessible  by  railroad,  and  few 
have  wagon  roads.  Usually  the  reduction  works  are  at  a  distance  from  the  mines,  and  the 
ore  is  packed  on  mules.  The  ore  is  brought  to  the  surface  on  the  backs  of  men,  up  steep 
incline?,  or  even  up  perpendicular  shafts,  the  carriers  climbing  up  on  notched  poles.  In 
some  mines  the  ore  is  carried  by  men  to  the  shaft  and  there  hoisted  by  whim.  There  is  no 
mention  in  Humboldt  or  Ward  of  tramways  and  cars  to  bring  the  ore  from  remote  parts  of 
the  drift  to  the  shaft.     Water  is  hoisted  in  the  same  manner  as  the  ore. 

Steam  was  not  used  previous  to  the  revolution,  but  it  has  been  coming  into  use  gradually, 
and  now  much  of  the  hoisting,  pumping,  and  pulverizing  is  done  by  it. 

The  general  practice  in  Mexico  as  to  pulverization  has  been  to  mash  the  ore  to  a  coarse 
sand  under  the  stamps,  and  then  grind  it  fine  in  anastras.  The  degree  of  fineness  varies 
much  in  the  different  districts,  partly  because  of  diflerences  in  the  ores  and  modes  of  reduc- 
tion, and  partly  because  of  ignorance  and  prejudice.  At  Guanajuato  the  ore  is  ground  to  an 
impalpable  powder  ;  at  Zacatecas,  Catorce,  and  Fresnillo,  in  a  coarse  flour.  In  1842,  82  per 
cent,  of  the  silver  yield  of  Mexico  was  obtained  by  the  yard  amalgamation;  8  per  cent,  by 
the  Cazo  or  copper-pan  amalgamation,  and  10  per  cent,  by  smelting.*  In  1800  one-seventh 
was  smelted. t 

The  proportion  of  smelted  silver  has  been  decreasing  gradually,  and  will  no  doubt  con- 
tinue to  decrease.     A  hundred  years  ago  it  was  two-fifths  of  the  total  yield. 

Since  the  opening  of  the  Washoe  mines  and  the  successful  introduction  of  the  iron-pan 
amalgamation  there,  a  number  of  mines  have  been  purchased  in  Sonora,  Sinaloa,  Chihuahua, 
Durango,  and  Lower  California,  by  Americans,  who  have  introduced  machinery  and  Ameri- 
can modes  of  working,  and  they  would  probably  have  obtained  some  splendid  results,  at 
least  in  a  few  instances,  before  this  time,  if  the  civil  war  had  not  thrown  everything  into 
confusion. 

The  average  loss  of  mercury  in  the  yard  amalgamation  is  a  pound  and  a  half  to  one  pound 
of  silver  extracted. 

The  best  writers  on  mining  in  Mexico  agree  that  the  country  has  great  wealth  as  yet  unde- 
veloped, and  that  a  time  must  come  when  the  production  of  the  precious  metals  will  far  sur- 
pass anything  of  the  past.  Humboldt  said  he  Avas  "tempted  to  believe  Europeans  have 
scarcely  begun  to  profit  by  the  inexhaustible  fund  of  wealth  contained  in  the  New  World. 
Europe  would  be  inundated  with  che  precious  metals  if  the  deposits  of  ore  at  Bolanos,  Bato- 
pilas,  Sombrerete,  Rosario,  Pachuca,  Moran,  Zultepec,  Chihuahua,  and  so  manj-  other  places 
that  enjoyed  an  ancient  and  just  celebrity,  were  assailed  at  one  and  the  same  time  with  all 
the  means  ofiered  by  tiie  perfection  to  which  the  art  of  the  miner  has  attained." 

The  opinion  of  Ward  is  given  in  the  following  passages :  "That  the  great  mineral  treas- 
ures of  Mexico  commence  exactly  at  the  point  where  Humboldt  rightly  states  the  labors  of 
the  Spaniards  to  have  terminated,  (above  latitude  24°,)  is  a  fact  now  universally  admitted 
by  the  native  miners,  although  heretofore  but  little  known  in  Europe.  The  states  of  Durango, 
Sonora,  Chihuahua,  and  Sinaloa  contain  an  infinity  of  mines  hitherto  but  little  known,  but 
holding  out,  wherever  they  hare  been  tried,  a  promise  of  riches  superior  to  anj  thing  that 
Mexico  has  yet  produced.  #  #  #  *  In  common  I  believe 

with  all  those  who  have  had  an  opportunity  of  inquiring  into  the  resources  of  New  Spain,  I 
do  regard  it  so  well  ascertained  a  tact  that  her  mineral  riches  are  almost  unexplored,  that  I 
am  willing  to  rest  upon  it  my  whole  calculation  with  regard  to  her  future  importance  as  a 
country."     (Ward,  vol.  1,  pp.  127-HiU.) 

Duport  expresses  himself  thus:  "After  having  visited  only  Tasco,  Real  del  Monte,  and 
Guannjiiatd,  Humboldt  said  4U  years  ago  that  there  was  enough  silver  in  the  Mexican  mines 
to  ilo<id  the  world  ;  what  would  he  not  have  said  if  he  had  pushed  his  researches  further 
north  ?  ftlure  strongly  convinced  than  he  could  possibly  Ije  of  the  abundance  of  the  argen- 
tiferous veins,  I  am  not  so  confident  about  the  brevity  of  the  time  within  which  the  progress 
of  science  in  Europe,  and  the  free  intercourse  of  all  nations  with  Mexico,  can  exert  any  con- 
siderable influence  on  the  amount  of  the  production  of  the  precious  metals."!: 

And  again  he  says  :  "The  v.ant  of  capital,  of  political  quiet,  of  population,  and  of  edu- 
cation in  the  uortliwest  of  the  republic,  and  of  wide-spread  scientific  knowledge,  and  finally 
the  high  j)ricc  of  mercury,  are  the  obstacles  which  oppose  the  increase  of  the  production  of 
the  precioTis  metal  in  Mexico.  These  causes  will  exercise  their  fatal  influence  for  some 
years  yet,  and  will  prevent  the  yield  from  passing  the  figure  which  it  reached  at  the  begin- 
ning of  this  century.  But  these  obstacles  are  not  permanent  in  their  character  ;  they  are 
only  temporary,  and  will  after  a  time  be  neutralized,  and  then  overcome,  by  the  abundauce 
of  the  ore  and  the  progress  of  science,  which  gives  a  wider  dominion  every  year  to  the  power 
of  num.  The  time  will  come,  a  century  sooner  or  a  century  later,  when  the  production  of 
silver  will  have  no  limit  save  that  imposed  bj'  the  steady  decrease  of  its  value. "^ 

Northern  St.vfes  of  Mexico.— The  late  Mr.  A.  Remond,  whose  untimely  decease  is 
an  irreparalile  loss  to  science,  made  a  tour  of  exploration  through  the  northwestern  State.? 
of  Mexico  during  the  years  1863,  1864,  and  1865,  in  the  course  of  which  he  carefully  exam- 

^  Dupon,  p.  309.  t  Humboldt,  p.  141.  J  Duport,  p.  380.  §  Duport,  p.  426. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  641 

incil  the  pfcolocy  of  tlio  coimtry.  niid  oolloctotl  sonio  valnahlc statistics  on  tlio  subjcot  of  niiiso."! 
ami  niiiiiiic:.  rrofossor  J.  D.  Wliitiicy,  of  (lie  j^oolojrical  suvvoy  of  (Jalifornia,  in  Mnri'li, 
1H()(),  Kiibniitted  to  tho  Acailcniy  of  Natural  Sciences  *  an  intercstinjj  report  from  Mr.  Kciinni'L 
The  followinpr  extracts  convey  a  clear  idea  of  tlie  {Teolop^ical  formation  and  general  cluuac- 
teristics  of  northern  Mexico.  The  tables  accompanying  the  report  show  tho  extent,  clinrac- 
ter,  and  condition  of  the  mine?  : 

"The  tianio  of  the  '  Sierra  Madre'  is  usually  applied  to  the  main  ranpje  of  mountains  of 
this  country,  or  tho  western  border  of  the  plateau  which  stretches  north  throug^h  the  territo- 
ries of  the  United  States,  forming  what  may  be  called  the  great  orographical  feature  of  tlio 
continent.  In  northwestern  Mexico  this  crumpled  border  of  the  great  plateau  comprises  an 
extensive  mountainous  region,  by  no  means  forming  a  continuous  single  chain,  but  rather 
several  central  ranges,  with  associated  groups  of  parallel  ridges,  all  having  th(^  saux*  general 
course,  which  is  approximately  north-northwest  and  south-southeast.  As  tho  breadtii  of  the 
chain  widens  as  we  go  towards  the  north,  so,  too,  that  of  the  valleys  increases  in  that  direc- 
tion, the  whole  system  of  mountains  and  valloysspreadingout  in  something  like  a  fan  shape. 

"Going  north,  tho  chain  appears  to  sink  gradually,  although  determinations  of  altitude  in 
northern  Mexico  are  extremely  few  in  number.  It  is  certain  that  there  is,  in  about  latitude 
32'^,  a  depression  of  the  mountain  ranges  which  extends  entirely  across  the  continent,  and 
which  would  eiuible  tho  traveller  to  cross  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  without  necessa- 
rily surmoujitiug  any  elevation  greater  than  4,000  feet.t  The  southeastern  range  is  the 
highest,  and  the  culminating  point  is  saad  to  be  the  Cerro  de  Cuiteco,  (iO  leagues  northeast 
of  Jesus  Maria,  on  thi;  ■western  borders  of  Chihuahua.  The  approximate  altitude  of  the 
Cumbre  do  Basascachic  is  7,421)  feet,  an-tl  that  of  Guadalupe  y  Calvo  7,825  feet.  To  the 
north,  the  ranges  east  of  Sahuaripa  are  also  very  high  ;  but  they  have  never  been  measured. 
No  peaks  or  ridges,  however,  in  this  portion  of  Mexico  attain  anything  like  the  elevation  of 
the  higher  portion  of  tho  Sierra  Nevada,  few  if  any  points  exceeding  10,000  feet  in  altitude. 

"  The  direction  of  the  sierra  is  nearly  that  of  a  line  connecting  some  of  the  best  mining 
districts  in  Mexico,  w-hich  are  situated  on  or  very  near  the  summit  of  the  mountains.  These 
districts  are  the  following,  enumerating  them  in  their  geographical  order  from  the  south 
towards  the  north  :  in  Durango,  San  Antonio  de  las  Ventanas,  Guaris  imey,  and  San  Dimas, 
remarkable  tor  their  auriferous  silver  ores,  and  02  Mexican  leagues  northeast  of  Mazatlan  ; 
in  Chihuahua,  Guadalupe  y  Calvo  and  San  Pedro  de  Batopilas,  yielding  fine  specimens  of 
native  silver;  aN.o,  Jesus  Maria,  in  the  same  State,  and  the  Real  del  la  Cieneguita,  Sonora, 
with  silver  and  gold  mines. 

"GiCNEitAL  Gf-ology. — The  geological  structure  of  the  occidental  slope  of  the  Sierra 
Madre,  as  well  as  that  of  other  parts  of  this  great  chain,  is  exceedingly  interesting,  and,  as 
j'ct  but  very  little  known,  notwithstanding  tho  valuable  investigations  of  Humboldt  and 
other  eminent  men ;  for,  up  to  tho  present  time,  the  age  of  the  different  formations  has  never 
been  lixed  with  any  degree  of  accuracy,  from  want  of  materials  and  of  suificient  observa- 
tions. In  1863,  ]8()4,  and  18G.3,  however,  I  explored  qtiito  a  number  of  localities  in  north- 
western Mexico,  and  was  thus  enabled  to  obtain  a  pretty  good  general  idea  of  the  geology 
of  that  region ;  and,  in  Sonora,  to  which  my  attention  was  especially  devoted,  I  sticceeded 
in  fiurling  fossils  in  sufficient  quantity  to  allow  of  the  determination  of  the  age  of  the  prin- 
cipal formations  of  the  northern  Sierra  Madre.  I5y  tracing  the  connection  of  these  rocks 
with  those  of  Central  Mexico,  additional  light  will  be  thrown  on  those  di.stricts  of  which,  at 
presiMit,  but  little  is  definitely  known. 

"The  igneous  rocks,  which  occur  more  abundantly  on  the  Pacific  slope,  are  granites, 
either  fine  or  very  coarse-grained  ;  porphyri(?5,  more  or  less  leldspathic;  and  greenstones,  aH 
of  which  are  cut  by  numerous  dikes  of  extremely  varied  character.  The  granites,  how- 
ever, are  very  poor  in  veins  of  the  precious  metals,  while  the  porphyries  are  highly  mctailifer- 
ons.  In  Sinaloa  (Candclero)  and  Durango  (San  Dimas)  we  see  that  the  granites  underlie 
the  inetallifercus  porphyries,  and  that  the  greenstones,  in  Sonora,  (near  He:mosillo  and'in 
the  vicinity  of  La  Ilaciendita,)  penetrate  through  them. 

"The  oldest  sedimentary  rocks  which  I  have  observed  belong  to  the  carboniferous  series  ; 
this  is  represented  in  the  eastern  part  of  Sonora  by  heavy  masses  of  limestone,  forming  very 
liigh  and  rugged  ridges,  running  a  little  west  of  north.  The  upturned  strata  arc  seen  in 
many  places  to  rest  on  granite.     Argentiferous  veins  occur  throughout  this  formation. 

"Tile  next  group  of  sedimentary  rocks  in  order  is  the  triassic  ;  this  forms  isolated niouu- 
tain  groups  in  Sonora,  and  offers  an  interesting  field  for  investigation.  Instead  of  lin.v^- 
stones.  it  is  made  up  of  heavy  beds  of  qmirtzites  and  conglomerates,  with  coal-bearing  clay 
shales  ;  all  of  these  are  disturbed  and  elevated,  and  rest  on  greenstones,  feldspathic  porphy- 
ries, or  granite.  \Vherever  metamorphosed,  the  triassic  rocks  tire  auriferous  and  contain 
veins  of  silver  ores.  Tito  metamorphic  slates  and  limestones  of  the  Altar  and  Magdalena 
districts,  which  include  the  ricliest  gold  placers  of  Sonora,  may  possibly  be  of  triassiivage; 
but  the  fossils  collected  are  too  imperfect  to  admit  of  this  being  determined.  Tiiere  are 
some  reasons  for  believing  those  rocks  to  be  rather  of  jurassi«c  than  of  triassic  age,  as  they 
difi'er  in  lithological  characters  from  both  the  triassic  and  carboniferous  ot  northern  Mexico, 

*  Proceedings  Cal.  Ac.^tl.  Nat.  Sciences,  vol.  Ill,  pp.  S-IS-iSS. 
tSee  Emory,  iu  Mexican  Boundary  Keport,  vol.  1,  p.  41. 

41 


642  RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 

resembling  rather  the  Jurassic  g^old-bearing  slates  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  in  California; 
besides,  they  lie  outside  and  to  the  west  of  the  Sierra  Madre.  It  may  also  be  noticed  that 
the  gold  Avhicli  they  furnish  does  not  resemble  that  obtained  from  the  triassic  strata. 

"  The  cretaceous  period  is  also  represented  at  the  foot  of  the  Sierra  Madre,  at  Arivechi,  in 
Sonora.  The  strata  belonging  to  this  series  are  chiefly  argillaceous  shales,  and  they  rest 
upon  porphyries  and  carboniferous  limestone.  They  have  been  disturbed  and  elevated  since 
their  deposition.  The  "fossils,  which  they  contain  in  great  number  and  in  a  fine  state  of  pre- 
servation, will  be  noticed  further  on. 

"AH  the  above-mentioned  formations  were  already  in  existence  before  the  first  eruption  of 
the  volcanic  rocks  took  place.  These  latter  are  found  scattered  along  the  whole  Pacific  coast, 
and  extend  from  the  Gulf  of  California  up  to  the  very  summit  of  the  Sierra.  It  is  ver^-  inter- 
esting to  see  the  volcanic  formations  spread  over  so  extensive  a  region,  especially  as  there 
are  no  active  volcanoes  known  in  northern  Mexico,  and  not  even  any  indications  of  ancient 
craters  or  vents. 

"Mines. — The  richest  and  widest  veins  are  those  northeast  of  Mazatlan,  near  SanDimas, 
Guarisamcj',  &c.,  in  Dnrango.  These  veins  cut  all  the  rocks  older  than  the  cretaceous, 
whether  igneous  or  sedimentary.  The  mines  of  Sinaloa  are  richer  than  those  of  Sonora. 
In  the  former  state  the  ore-bearing  portion  of  the  veins  is  from  a  few  feet  to  several  yards  in 
Avidth  ;  in  the  latter,  generally  fron)  one  to  two  feet.  In  Durango  and  Sinaloa,  gold,  native 
silver,  and  sulphuret  of  silver  occur,  associated  with  galena,  yellow  blende,  and  iron  pyrites. 
In  Sonora  the  principal  ores  are  argentiferous  gray  copper,  with  galena,  black  blende,  cop- 
per pyrites,  arsenical  pyrites,  carbonate  of  lead,  ruby  'silver,  arsenical  silver,  and  gold.  Each 
mining  district  is  characterized  by  a  peculiar  system  of  veins  ;  in  all  as  many  as  20  diftereut 
systems  have  been  observed.  The  most  abundant  vein  stones  are  quartz,  either  chaloedouic, 
ci-ystalline,  or  massive;  brown  spar;  heavy  spar;  oxide  of  iron.  The  veins  occurring  in 
the  metamorphic  triassic  rocks  are  usually  parallel  with  the  stratification,  so  that  they  lie 
nearly  horizontal  where  the  formation  has  been  but  little  disturbed.  As  to  the  yield  of  the 
silver  ore.s,  it  varies  extremely,  and  it  would  be  necessary  to  enter  into  a  full  description  of 
all  the  different  districts  to  give  an  idea  of  it.  It  may  be  noticed,  however,  that  the  arsenical 
pyrites,  which  is  auriferous  in  the  Sierra  Nevada,  becomes  argentiferous  in  the  Sierra  Madre. 
The  veins  vary  in  their  direction  from  a  little  east  to  a  little  west  of  north ;  the  richest  ores 
near  San  Dimas  run  northeast  and  southwest.  There  are  but  few  rich  mines  in  Sonora,  a 
state  of  which  the  mineral  wealth  has  been  much  exaggerated.  There  are,  however,  some 
deposits  of  variegafted  copper,  and  veins  of  magnetic  and  specular  iron. 

"The  annexed  tabular  statement  will  give  the  principal  facts  obtained  with  regard  to  the 
mines  examined  in  northern  Mexico  •■ 


"WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 


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1 

GAG  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

Mr.  Cummiugs  Cherry,  geologist  and  mining-  engineer,  Las  written  an  interesting  report 
on  the  mineral  resources  of  Sonora,  published  by  the  Cincinnati  and  Sonora  Mining  Associa- 
tion. It  contains  a  great  variety  of  valuable  information,  and  shows  conclusively  the  neces- 
sity of  railroad  communication  to  develoj)  the  rich  mineral  resources  of  that  country. 

"At  present,"  says  Mr.  Cherry,  "the  roads  are  principally  the  simple  pack-trails  of  the 
country.  From  Guayraas,  the  port  of  entry,  a  good  wagon  road  passes  by  way  of  Hermosillo 
to  Ures,  and  thence  up  the  Sonora  river  to  Arispe."  Another  wagon  road  from  Guaymas 
passes  through  San  Marcial  and  Matape.  Nearly  the  whole  country,  however,  is  traversed 
by  pack-trails. 

Referring  to  the  miscellaneous  resources  of  Sonora,  as  connected  with  the  business  of 
mining,  Mr.  Cherry  gives  the  following  data : 

"Timber. — A  valuable  element  in  mining  enterprises,  and  one  which  the  western  and 
southern  districts  of  Sonora  are  veiy  deficient  in,  is  timber  of  such  quantity  and  quality  as 
may  be  desired  for  building  purposes  and  fuel.  The  timber  and  lumber  used  in  the  erection 
of  the  beneficiating  and  other  mining  works  of  most  of  the  American  enterprises  in  Sonora 
and  southern  Arizona  have  been  necessarily  brought  from  San  Francisco,  and  conveyed  to 
the  mines  at  heavy  expense." 

In  some  parts  of  the  country  the  smaller  kinds  of  timber  abound  in  considerable  quantities. 
At  one  place  visited  by  Mr.  Cherry : 

"On  the  river  margins,  Cottonwood,  ash,  willow,  walnut,  and  sycamore  of  good  size  and 
quality  abound.  On  the  bottom  lands,  the  lands  formerly  cultivated,  is  a  dense  forest  of 
uiesquite,  so  thickly  matted  that  we  were  in  places  obliged  to  cut  paths  through  it.  I  was 
surprised  to  find  many  of  these  trees  three  feet  in  diameter,  as  in  other  localities  they  seldom 
attain  a  diameter  of  more  than  six  or  eight  inches,  and  with  one  exception  this  was  the 
most  extensive  forest  of  these  trees  I  bad  seen.  In  the  tributary  canons  and  on  the  hill- 
sides they  also  occur  in  numbers,  but  smaller.  This  mesquite  timber  cannot  be  too  highly 
appreciated  as  a  fuel ;  it  burns  long  and  fiercely,  and  gives  an  intense  heat.  It  is  particu- 
larly valuable  for  charcoal,  which  I  pronounce  a  superior  article.  On  the  hills  are  several 
varieties  of  oak,  and  on  the  higher  mountain  peaks,  two  or  three  leagues  distant,  are  heavy 
forests  of  pine. 

"Arable  Land.s  and  Agricultural  Products. — Two  crops  are  raised  from  the  same 
laud  in  the  year,  and  the  yield  is  so  abundant  as  to  occasion  astonishment  to  those  who  are 
unacquainted  with  the  productive  nature  of  these  soils.  The  rainy  season  sets  in  early  in 
June,  and  continues  to  October,  though  occasional  showers  fall  until  March.  Corn  and 
other  products  which  require  rains  to  bring  them  to  maturity  are  planted  in  June,  and  in  the 
latter  part  of  November,  or  in  December,  wlieat  and  other  hardy  products  follow,  though 
where,  as  on  these  lands,  irrigation  may  be  resorted  to,  the  crops,  however  planted,  are  ever 
sure.  The  wheat  of  Sonora  is  very  superior  in  quality ;  its  yield  is  J 00  to  200  bushels  to  one 
bushel  sown,  and  it  is  not  uncommon  to  get  250  to  one.  Corn  yields  large  crops ;  the  native 
variety  is  a  white  flint,  and  may  be  advantageously  replaced  with  our  American  yellow,  and  other 
varieties.  Peas  ever  produce  three  abundant  crops  in  the  year.  Beans  are  the  favorite  food 
of  the  people,  and  as  they  grace  alike  the  table  of  rich  and  poor,  surprising  quantities  are 
consumed.  I  saw  neither  rice  nor  barley,  though  both  may  be  successfully  cultivated.  These 
lands  are  eminently  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  sugar  cane,  cottou,  and  tobacco,  which  are 
raised  in  the  nearest  settlements  with  excellent;  results.  From  the  sugar-cane  a  coarse  kind 
of  sugar  called  panoche  is  made  by  the  natives  ;  it  is  a  favorite  article  of  consumption,  and 
finds  ready  sale  at  $25  to  $40  the  cargo  of  300  pounds,  wliich  leaves  a  handsome  profit  to  the 
cultivator.  Cottou  is  one  of  the  most  profitable  products  of  the  soil,  and  is  becoming  exten- 
sively cultivated.  The  staple  is  shorter  than  our  cottons,  though  of  good  quality  ;  it  is 
manufactured  by  the  native  women  into  articles  of  wearing  apparel.  Tobacco  also  yields 
well ;  it  is  a  profitable  crop,  and  is  becoming  extensively  cultivated.  Besides  these,  Chile 
jtepper — a  capsicum  of  great  pungency,  and  one  of  the  necessaries  of  life  with  the  natives — 
onions,  garlic,  melons,  and  sweet  potatoes  are  produced,  and  our  common  potato  and  vege- 
tables may  be  successfully  introduced.  Fruits  of  excellent  quality  could  be  grown,  espe- 
cially sweet  and  sour  oranges,  figs,  quinces,  and  peaches  :  and  the  grape  could  not  fail  to  be 
a  decided  success.  Besides  the  valley  lands  on  the  river  are  those  of  the  Henrigo  valley, 
comprised  in  the  timber  tract  already  spoken  of;  they  are  exceedingly  fertile,  and  may  be 
irrigated  from  the  creek  wliich  courses  through  them.  Back  from  the  river  are  several  pla- 
teaus of  ridi  soils,  containing  in  all,  perhaps,  500  acres,  which,  while  they  are  too  elevated 
to  admit  of  irrigation,  would  produce  abuudant  crops  of  corn  in  the  rainy  season. 

"The  only  farming  im]>lements  of  tlie  country  are  a  pointed  stick,  serving  for  a  plough, 
a  hoe,  and  a  sickl(%  and  where  such  grand  results  are  attained  with  these,  what  would  not  be 
the  results  of  the  introduction  of  our  improved  agricultural  implements,  and  the  application 
of  farming  knowledge.' 

"Pa-stuke  Lands. — The  higher  lands,  unfit  for  agricultural  uses,  but  covered  with  a 
growth  of  nutritious  grasses,  are  adapted  to  cattle  and  sheep  ranges.  There  are  three  varie- 
ties of  grasses  upon  the  lands,  the  mesquite  grass,  confined  to  the  ranges  of  the  mesquite  timber; 
the  sacatom,  a  coarse  species  foimd  on  the  higher  ranges,  aud  the  gr^ma  (crondosium,) 
occupying  the  plateaus  and  less  elevated  hills.  The  latter  variety  has  much  the  appearance 
of  dry,  curled  whittliugs  of  pine  wood,  is  very  nutritious,  aud  was  greedily  eaten  by  our 


"WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  647 

animals.  Thvoujrhont  the  entire  year  the  cattle  praze  upon  tho  Mils,  there  beinp;  no  need  to 
preserve  the  grasses.  Northern  yonora  is,  without  dispute,  pre-eminent  as  a  stoek-raising 
country. 

"EivEKS. — The  Yaqui  is  the  largest  stream  in  Sonora,  and  perhaps  the  only  one  which 
may  be  deservedly  termed  a  river.  It  takes  its  rise  in  the  mountains  near  the  Arizona 
boundary,  and  tiows  in  a  southerly  course. 

"  llAur.oii  m-'  ClLi.WMAS. — Our  short  stay  at  Guaymas  was  sufficiently  protracted  to  impress 
us  with  the  important  part  it  must  play  in  the  future  of  Sonora.  The  town  is  situated  on 
the  Gulf  of  California,  in  latitude27'^4'i' north.  Itsharbor  is  eminently  the  boston  the  western 
coast  of  Mexico,  being  much  superior  to  either  San  Bias  or  Mazatlan,  and  because  of  the 
trade  winds,  particularly  desirable  as  a  port  for  the  trades  of  the  East  Indies  and  China. 
The  bay  consists  of  an  inner  and  outer  one,  in  all  four  to  five  miles  in  length,. almost  com- 
pletely sheltered  from  the  winds  bj"  the  bold  heights  of  Pajaros  on  the  east,  and  the  islands 
of  Terra  Firma,  San  Vicente,  and  Petayas  on  the  west,  leaving  the  channel  narrow  and 
deep  between  them.  Another  entrance,  Boca  Chica,  occurs  between  Pajaros  on  the  south 
and  Cochin  on  the  north.  The  tides  are  irregular,  being  governed  by  the  winds  of  the  Gulf, 
seldom  rising  and  falling  more  tlian  four  or  five  feet.  The  depth  of  water  is  two  fathoms  at 
the  mole,  which  is  a  very  superior  one,  to  eight  fathoms  in  the  channel.  The  town  is  sur- 
rounded by  the  irregular  hills  of  the  Coast  range,  through  which  there  is  but  one  entrance 
from  tlie  laud  side.  These  hills,  devoid  of  vegetation,  give  the  town  a  dreary  aspect;  it  is 
small,  and  of  modern  origin,  containing  one  spacious  street,  and  several  cross  thoroughfares. 
In  ]S20  to  lS2b,  when  a  free  port,  a  considerable  business  was  transacted  with  foreign  ports, 
and  it  was  not  uncommon  to  find  20  or  more  vessels  loading  and  unloading  at  one  time. 
This  activity  was  prematurely  checked  by  the  internal  strifes  of  fhe  following  five  years, 
during  which  it  lost  over  two-thirds  of  its  population.  During  the  years  18U0  to  18G4  it 
received  an  impetus  from  the  American  mining  and  othei  enterprises ;  considerable  capital 
was  invested  in  town  lots,  and  many  improvements  of  a  permanent  character  were  inaugu- 
rated, giving  to  the  town  a  population  of  over  5,0U0,  and  the  appearance  and  live-awake  air 
of  a  California  mining  town.  Tlio  present  unfortunate  strife  and  the  despotic  incubus  of  a 
French  ganison  shackled  this  new-born  energy,  and  at  the  present  writing  Guaymas  is  in 
as  fossilized  a  condition  as  need  be.  Were  it  not  for  the  continual  clanging  of  large  and 
small  bells  with  hoarse  throats  and  shrieking  voices,  the  daily  occurrence  of  a  procession  of 
saints,  images,  and  wax  candles,  the  snarling  of  curs,  the  rioting  of  marines  from  some 
foreign  war  vessel,  and  the'  occasional  view  of  a  native  propping  up  a  house,  or  picking 
vermin,  we  would  have  no  out-door  indications  from  which  to  conclude  the  place  was  settled. 
With  the  native  inhabitants,  life  seems  to  be  a  dotre  far  niente,  or  more  truly,  wretchedness, 
likh  and  inanity.  There  are  a  number  of  fine  structures  of  the  architecture  peculiar  to  this 
country,  and  a  few  of  American  pattern.  The  exports  are  the  connnon  products  of  the 
country — wheat,  corn,  flour,  cotton,  tobacco,  unrefined  sugar,  aguadiente,  beef,  hides,  gold, 
i-ilver,  and  copper;  for  which  it  imports  the  products  of  the  more  southern  States,  and  East 
Indian  and  Einopeau  manufacturers  Its  exports  of  products  and  bullion  for  ]8G5  could 
not  have  fallen  short  of  itit,00tl,0()U,  though  for  the  present  year  it  will  Inirdly  exceed  half  of 
this  sum.  The  climate  is  pleasant  from  November  to  April ;  the  heat  in  the  suunner  months, 
June  to  September,  is  excessive,  the  mcrcuiy  reaching  IU5°  to  110°,  and  very  seldom  tailing 
below  97^^  orOS'^,  and  when  the  hot  winds  visit  the  town,  as  they  often  do  during  the  summer 
months,  it  frequently  reaches  V.ib^.  There  is  but  little  sickness,  and  what  occurs  is  of  a 
light  character;  the  water  which  supplies  the  town  is  procured  from  wells  sunk  at  the  limits 
of  the  town,  and  is  slightly  brackish,  though  wholesome.  With  a  harbor  capable  of  giving 
good  anchorage  to  200  vessels,  safe  navigation  in  the  Gulf,  and  a  section  of  country  requiring 
only  peace,  enterprise,  capital,  and  the  energy  of  American  settlers  to  till  the  lands,  and 
work  the  mines  which  Mexican  indolence  has  jiermifted  to  fall  into  ruin,  with  the  indi)mita- 
ble  spirit  of  American  advancement  to  make  of  an  old  country  a  new  California,  Guaymas 
is  destined  at  no  distant  day  to  take  her  place  as  the  grand  commercial  depot  of  westeru 
Mexico,  and  I  would  vi.-nture  to  predict,  of  our  own  extreme  southwestern  Territoges." 

General  Rufus  Ingalls,  in  his  inspection  report,  (Ex.  Doc.  Ill,  39th  Cong.,  2d  sess.,  p.  9,) 
says: 

"  A  harbor  on  the  Gulf  is  wanted,  such,  for  example,  as  Guaymas,  wliich  is  nearer  to  the 
heart  of  Arizona  than  any  point  on  the  Colorado  river.  From  Port  Libertad  to  Tucson  is 
only  some  225  miles  ;  from  Fort  Yuma  it  is  'MA).  Had  we  jiossessiou  of  Port  Libertad,  or 
better,  Guaymas,  our  posts  in  Arizona  could  be  much  easier  and  more  cheaply  supplied,  and 
a  great  number  of  mines  could  then  be  worked  with  profit  that  lie  idle  now.  This  matter  I 
am  aware  has  received  the  attention  of  our  authorities,  who  will  probably  cause  a  change  iu 
our  boundary  iu  proper  time.  I  know  that  Generals  Halleck  and  McDowell  have  both 
appreciated  its  necessity,  and  General  Waller,  who  has  been  in  Arizona,  has  written  me  a 
letter  on  the  subject,  which  I  enclose." 

SIX.M.OA. 

Sinaloa  is  comparatively  poor  as  a  mining  State.  The  lodes  are  neither  large  nor  numerous. 
There  are,  however,  several  dozen  mines  that  have  paid  well,  and  four  or  live  that  havo 
yielded  handsome  forttmes  to  their  proprietors.     The  Guadalupe  mine  at  Cosala,  if  Ward's 


648  EESOURCES    OF   STATES   AND   TERRITORIES 

account  of  it  is  to  be  accepted,  was,  40  years  ago,  one  of  the  best  mines  in  Mexico.  It  was 
very  rich  in  gold,  and  the  owner  could  obtain  a  thousand  pounds  of  that  metal  from  it  every 
week,  but  he  was  a  crotchety,  miserly  bigot,  who  refused  to  work  his  mine,  refused  to  sell 
it,  refused  to  let  anybody  else  work  it,  and  bred  his  chiklreii  in  ignorance  and  dirt.' 

Such  an  account  about  a  mine  of  which  we  find  no  information  in  other  books  should  be 
looked  upon  with  .some  suspicion,  especially  since  Ward  did  not  visit  Cosala  ;  but  his  state- 
ment that  §1,000,000  h'ad  been  offered  for  the  mine  by  an  association  of  foreigners  is  prob- 
ably correct,  for  he  was  in  a  position  to  be  familiar  with  all  the  sales  of  valuable  mines  in 
the  country. 

One  of  the  most  noted  mines  of  Sinaloa  is  the  Tajo  at  Rosario,  which  was  discovered  by 
accident  about  the  beginning  of  the  last  century'.  A  pious  ranchero  lost  his  rosary,  and  his 
search  for  it  kept  him  out  in  the  mountains  all  night.  He  made  a  fire  to  protect  himself 
against  the  cold,  and  in  the  morning  he  discovered  that  the  stones  on  which  he  had  rested 
his  wood  were  sparkling  with  silver.  He  claimed  a  mine,  and  called  the  place  by  the  Spanish 
name  of  Rosary.  It  yielded  large  quantities  of  silver,  and  tradition  says  that  the  Rosario 
church,  which  cost  !g.i'0,000,  was  built  by  a  tax  of  one-quarter  of  a  real  on  each  marc  (about 
one  per  cent. )  of  the  silver  extracted  from  the  mine.  This  would  imply  that  the  total  yield  had 
been  $8,000,000  previous  to  180.5,  in  which  year  the  church  was  finished.  In  JS20  100  men 
were  drowned  in  it,  and  most  of  the  time  since  then  it  has  been  lying  idle. 

CHIHUAIIU.\. 

Most  of  the  mines  of  Chihuahua  are  in  a  basin  which  has  no  outlet  to  the  sea.  The  eleva- 
tion is  high,  the  climate  dry,  the  earth  rocky  and  bare,  and  the  few  streams  are  lost  in  lakes 
or  swamps  which  have  no  outL^s.  Some  of  the  mines,  however,  are  on  the  western  .slope  of 
the  Sierra  Madre,  and  others  in  the  basin  of  the  Rio  Grande.  The  principal  mining  districts 
are  those  of  Parral,  Santa  Eulalia,  Morelos,  Jesus  Maria,  Guadalupe,  Calvo.and  Batapolis. 

Parral  is  in  the  southeastern  corner  of  the  State,  and  its  ores  are  abundant  but  poor.  The 
lodes  have  rocky  crests  which  project  considerably  above  the  low  hills  of  the  region.  Water 
Ik  scarce  at  the  surface,  and  the  mines  are  in  a  bad  condition,  having  been  long  abandoned 
and  allowed  to  fall  in. 

Batapolis  has  a  multitude  of  very  rich  lodes.  The  Carmen  yielded  a  lump  of  native  silver 
weighing  4*25  pounds.  There  was  so  much  native  silver  in  the  ores  of  the  Pastrana  mine 
that  the  drill-bars  of  the  miners  were  provided  with  sharp  chisels  at  one  end  for  the  purpose 
of  cutting  the  metal. 

Bueu  Suceso  was  another  mine  in  which  pure  silver  was  found  in  large  quantities.  It  was 
discovered  by  an  Indian,  who  swam  across  the  river  (the  Fuerte)  and  found  the  clear  metal 
on  the  bank,  where  it  had  been  laid  bare  by  the  water.  He  denounced  the  mine,  and  took 
out  much  silver,  but  after  getting  down  three  yards  the  >vater  became  so  troublesome  that 
he  could  go  no  further,  and  the  mine  was  not  worked  while  Ward  was  in  Mexico,  nor  do  we 
find  any  mention  of  it  in  later  books. 

The  mines  of  Morelos  were  discovered  in  182fi,  and  yielded  .$27'0,000  in  two  months.  Jesus 
Maiia,  on  the  western  boundary  of  the  State  and  nearly  east  of  Guaymas,  was  discovered  in 
lfc22,  and  yielded  extremely  rich  ore — so  rich  that  it  was  packed  to  Parral,  nearly  400  miles 
distant,  to  be  reduced.  Refugio  was  discovered  shortly  before  the  outbreak  of  the  revolution; 
yielded  about  half  a  million  annually  for  four  or  five  years. 

About  15  miles  southeast  of  the  city  of  Chihuahua  is  the  district  of  Santa  Eulalia,  which 
produced  about  §100,000,000  in  the  course  of  the  last  ceutury.  From  17U5  to  1737  the 
average  annual  yield  was  §; 1, 74L!i,742.  In  1791  there  were  in  the  district  0,000  inhabitants, 
?;?  amalgamating  establishments,  and  180  smelting  furnaces.  About  1795  the  district  was 
abandoned  in  consequence  of  the  incursions  of  the  Apaches  and  ComancJies,  and  the  mines 
remained  in  their  abandoned  condition,  although  there  is  no  reason  to  doubt  that  they  might 
be  woikcd  with  great  profit,  if  the  laborers  and  property  could  be  protected  against  the  sav- 
ages. Just  before  the  district  was  abandoned  a  rich  deposit  found  in  one  of  the  mines  had 
been  worked  out,  having  lasted  nine  years,  in  which  time  it  yielded  so  much  that  a  tax  of 
one  real  ])er  marc  (about  one  aud  a  half  per  cent.)  sufficed  to  build  the  cathedral  of  Chi- 
huahua and  establish  for  it  a  reserve  fund  of  $10,000.  Wo  cannot  estimate  the  total  yield 
of  the  bonanza  at  less  than  $4,000,000. 

DURANGO. 

Durango  is  very  rich  in  silver,  but  its  wealth  was  not  known  until  just  before  the  revolu- 
tion, and  there  has  been  compaiatively  little  exploration  since.  This  State,  like  Souora  and 
Chihuahua,  has  suffered  severely  from  Apache  incursions. 

The  city  of  Durango,  195  miles  northwest  of  Zacatecas,  had  only  8,000  inhabitants  in  1783, 
but  in  that  year  Zambrauo,  the  great  miner  of  that  region,  discovered  the  mines  of  Guarisa- 
mey,  and  Durango  soon  trebled  in  population.  In  24  years  he  extracted  $30,000,000  from 
his  claims,  and  a  multitude  of  other  mines  were  opened,  so  that  the  average  yield  of  the 
State  was  estimated  to  be  .$5,000,000. 

Ward,  voluiao  U,  page  334. 


WEST    OF    THE   ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  649 

Tlic  principal  miniufi:  ili.stricta  are  Gavilanos,  Guarisamey,  San  Dcmas,  Tanmstila,  Canolas, 
and  Sianoii.  on  tlic  wcstfvn  slojw  of  tin-  Siena  Madre,  and  Cncncanie,  Guanaseir,  and 
Mapinii  on  tin-  eastern.  These  eastern  districts  are  marked  by  tlie  abumlanco  of  lead  ;  the 
western  by  the  abundance  of  pold.  The  lode,  at  Gavilancs  is  40  I'eet  thick  and  tlio  ore  quite 
rich,  but  it  is  stubborn  both  tor  anialpainatiou  and  for  suicltinf^.  The  richest  district  is  Guari- 
samey, and  the  most  productive  mines  are  there — Arana,  Ciuco,  Scnores,  Bolanos,  Piramide, 
Caudelania,  Dolores,  and  Tapia.  The  Arana  mine  was  remarkable  for  having  a  vault  (like 
that  in  Zavala  mine  at  Catorce)  filled  with  a  tine  dust,  a  large  part  of  which  was  native  gold 
and  silver. 

Ward  says  of  Durango :  "  The  State  is  rich  in  mineral  deposits,  none  of  which,  excepting 
Guarisamey  and  San  Demas,  have  been  at  all  extensively  worked.  There  is  hardly  a  single 
mine  exceeding  100  varas  in  depth;  for,  in  general,  the  use  of  even  the  simplest  machinery 
was  unknown  in  the  north,  and  a  malicati,  primitive  as  the  invention  is,  would  luive excited 
almost  as  nmch  astonishment  as  a  steam  engine  itself.  The  mines  were  worked  as  long  as 
the  water  could  be  raised,  without  inconvenience,  by  two  or  three  tenatoris  (carriers)  with 
leather  buckets,  and  abandoned  when  the  discharge  of  this  duty  became  too  laborious.  Most 
of  the  principal  districts  may,  consequently,  be  regarded  as  virgin  ground,  and  there  are 
few  in  which  the  old  shafts  might  noi  be  again  brought  into  activity  with  a  comparatively 
small  outlay."     (Ward,  II,  page '293.) 

SOUTH  AMERICA. 

PERU. 

The  silver  of  Peril  in  the  present  day  comes  chiefly  from  Cerro  Pasco,  Hualgayoc,  Guama- 
chuco,  Couchuco,  and  Huantaya — all  except  the  last  in  districts  near  the  summit  of  the 
Andes.  In  the  beginning  of  the  century  Cerro  Pasco  yielded  $2,000,000  annually,  Hual- 
gayoc s."iGO,0(JO,  Guamachuco  and  Couchuco  each  $40,000,  and  Huantaya  $()7r),000.  Since 
then  the  ])roduction  of  all  these  districts  has  decreased.  The  fame  of  Peru  for  mineral 
wealth  was  due  mainly,  for  a  long  period,  to  the  Potosi  mines,  which  were  transferred  to 
Buenos  Ayres  in  1775*,  and  have  belonged  to  Bolivia  since  Spanish  America  became  independ- 
ent. Huantaya  is  in  the  desert  of  Atacama,  and  is  remarkable  for  the  production  of  immense 
masses  of  native  silver,  one  of  which,  found  in  1758,  weighed  800  pounds. 


The  town  of  Potosi  is  situated  13,200  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  100  miles  from  the 
Paciiic,  and  50  miles  east  of  the  main  divide  of  the  Andes.  The  summit  of  the  Potosi  moun- 
tains is  1.">,'J81  feet  high,  and  is  five  miles  from  the  town.  The  peak  is  conical,  with  sides 
that  rise  at  an  angle  of  45^  to  the  horizon,  reddish  brown  in  color,  and  bare  of  vegetation. 
It  was  on  the  side  of  this  mountain  that  a  poor  Indian,  named  Diego  Hualca,  while  clam- 
bering after  a  wild  goat  in  the  autumn  of  1545,  caught  hold  of  a  shrub  to  assist  him  up,  and 
it  pulled  out,  exposing  pure  silver  to  view.  A  brief  examination  proved  the  existence  of  a 
rich  mine,  and  soon  Potosi  obtained  almost  as  much  celebrity  throughout  the  civilized  world 
as  did  California  300  j-ears  later.  That  barren  and  bleak  mountain  contained  the  largest 
deposit  of  rich  silver  ore  ever  found  in  the  world,  and  it  has  produced  more  silver  tlian  any 
other  district.    The  total  production  from  1545  to  1603  is  given  by  Humboldt*  at-^l,  150,000,000. 

The  following  table,  showing  the  yield  in  various  years,  indicates  the  gradual  changes  in 
production: 


1720 $1,300,000 

1745 1,8.50,000 

1785 3,(i00,000 

1830 tG25,00O 


154'J §1,549,000 

15.50 2,000,000 

1.590 7,500,000 

1G30 5.000,000 

16S0 3,000,000 

During  the  first  five  years  large  masses  of  ore  were  found  yielding  $10,000  per  ton;  in 
1574  the  first-cliuss  ore  was  wortli  $1,400  per  ton;  in  1G07  the  yield  was  about  $;!5  per  ton; 
and  in  1790  they  got  very  little  ore  that  produced  more  than  $10  to  the  ton.  The  last  (juarter 
of  the  XVIth  century  was  the  most  prosperous  period  in  the  history  of  Potosi,  which  had 
then  a  population  of  1:50,000  souls.  Ihe  men  were  nearly  all  Indians,  who  were  compelled 
to  work  as  slaves  in  the  mines,  and  probably  three-fourths  of  the  8,285,0(»0|:  red  men  \vho 
died  in  ihe  mines  were  sacrificed  to  get  out  the  treasures  that  astonished  tlie  world  during 
two  centuries  after  the  discovery  made  by  Diego  Hualca.  This  imposing  city,  the  largest 
that  has  ever  existed  so  high  above  the,  sea,  needed  great  supplies,  which  could  only  be 
obtained  at  vast  expense.  For  the  jiurpose  of  getting  water  39  artificial  lakes  were  m.-idc  by 
building  dams  across  ravines  and  valk-ys  in  the  mountain  side.  The  silver  was  carried  by 
ox-carts,  by  way  of  Tucuman,  to  Buenos  Ayres,  and  not  unfre<iueutly  100  of  these  carts, 

*  Ch.ipttr  XI,  volume  III,  p.  ^VJ.  The  amounts  colltcted  for  the  king's  fifth,  yoar  by  year,  from  155G  to 
1789,  are  given  there. 

t  Templa,  Tolume  I,  p.  309.  *  Temple,  volume  I,  p.  320. 


650  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TEERITOEIES 

heavily  laden,  were  seen  in  a  train.  It  was  probably  from  this  stream  of  silver  that  the  riyer 
having  its  outlet  at  the  same  place  was  called  the  Plata,  that  word  being  the  Spanish  name 
for  silver. 

For  30  years  after  the  discovery  of  Potosi  the  silver  was  obtained  exclusively  by  smelting 
in  portable  furnaces  made  of  clay,  in  the  form  of  hollow  cylinders,  with  a  number  of  holes 
for  the  admission  of-  air.  Silver  ore,  galena,  and  charcoal  were  put  in  in  alternate  layers, 
and  the  fierce  winds  which  blow  on  the  mountain  side  furnished  a  sufficient  blast,  and  some- 
times even  too  strong,  so  that  it  was  necessary  to  carry  the  furnaces  to  a  sheltered  place. 
The  mixed  lead  and  silver  were  afterwards  melted  again  with  a  blast  made  by  a  dozen  Indians 
blowing  with  their  mouths  through  copper  tubes  two  yards  long;  and  thus  the  baser  metal 
was  burned  ofP.  At  one  time  6,000  of  these  furnaces  could  be  seen  burning  on  the  mountain 
side.  The  galena  was  found  in  the  Little  Potosi  mountain.  At  the  end  of  the  XVIth  century 
10,000  slaves  and  as  many  llamas,  and  as  many  more  mules,  were  employed  in  the  labors  of 
the  mines  and  reduction  works. 


Chanarcello,  the  richest  mining  district  of  Chi'i,  and  at  present  the  most  prosperous  and 
promising  of  all  in  South  America,  is  situated  in  latitude  27°  30',  50  miles  southeastward 
from  Copiapo.  It  is  50  miles  from  the  ocean  and  3,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  to  the 
lowest  mines.  The  most  productive  deposit  of  silver  has  been  found  within  an  area  a  mile 
and  a  half  long  and  a  mile  wide,  in  a  cream-colored  hill,  all  the  adjacent  hills  being  dark. 
It  is  situated  on  the  edge  of  the  desert  of  Atacama,  and  there  is  very  little  vegetation,  and 
sometimes  no  rain  for  a  year.  The  nearest  water — at  least  the  most  convenient  of  access — 
is  10  miles  off,  and  it  is  sold  at  the  mines  at  16  gallons  for  $1,  birt  it  is  iit  only  for  brutes, 
and  the  water  for  the  men  is  brought  further,  and  paid  for  at  a  higher  price. 

The  first  mine  of  Chanarcello  was  discovered  on  the  18th  of  May,  1832,  by  a  muleteer 
named  Juan  Godoi,  who,  while  out  hunting,  got  tired  of  chasing  a  guanaco  and  sat  down 
on  a  stone  to  rest.  Happening  to  examine  the  rock,  he  saw  that  it  was  very  rich  silver  ore, 
and  he  managed  to  break  oft'  enough  to  load  his  two  donkeys,  with  which  he  went  to  Copi- 
apo, where  he  asked  the  assistance  and  counsel  of  Juan  Callejas,  his  friend  and  an  old  miner. 
They  obtained  a  title  to  the  mine,  and  Callejas,  in  recognition  of  many  favors,  transferred 
his  share  (one-third)  to  Don  Miguel  Gallo,  who  became  one  of  the  wealthiest  men  of  Chili. 
The  mine  proved  very  productive,  and  Godoi,  who  had  been  a  very  reputable  muleteer, 
became  a  low  debauchee.  He  spent  all  his  immense  wealth,  and  was  reduced  to  beggary. 
He  had  not  even  a  donkey.  Gallo  took  pity  on  him  and  gave  him  a  little  mine,  which  he 
sold  for  $14,000,  and  on  that  sum  the  discoverer  of  Chanarcello  lived  in  moderation  and  quiet. 

A  mine  called  Bolados  was  richer  than  the  pioneer  claim,  to  which  it  was  very  near.  It 
yielded  $3,000,000  to  four  owners,  and,  though  all  were  married  and  had  children,  not  one 
of  them  left  a  cent  to  his  heirs.  AH  had  wasted  their  money  in  riotous  living.  The  largest 
piece  of  native  silver  on  record  was  found  in  this  mine  ;  it  weighed  13,000  pounds,  and  was 
worth  §150,000.  One  lump  of  it  cut  out  with  chisels— for  it  could  not  be  drilled  for  blasting — 
Aveighed  a  ton  and  a  half. 

In  18.50  there  were  1,750  miners  in  the  Chanarcello  district,  two-thirds  of  them  Chilenos, 
and  the  remainder  foreigners,  mostly  from  other  Spanish  American  States.  The  bavreteros 
or  miners  who  break  down  the  ore,  received  $'25  per  month  and  20  ounces  of  bread,  a  pound 
of  boiled  beans,  six  ounces  of  wheat,  and  '24  figs  daily,  the  food  being  supposed  to  be 
enough  for  an  average  family.  The  apires,  or  men  who  carry  the  ore  upon  their  backs  to 
the  surface,  the  usual  load  being  from  '250  to  375  pounds,  receive  §J2  per  month  and  the 
same  rations. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  mine  the  ore  is  broken  with  hammers  into  pieces  of  half  a  cubic  inch 
and  assorted.  Everything  that  will  not  yield  at  the  rate  of  .$50  per  ton  was  thrown  to  one 
side  as  not  rich  enough  to  pay  for  working,  and  of  this  rejected  material  there  were  piles  at 
Cliafiarcello,  in  1850,  estimated  to  contain  $20,000,000  of  silver. 

The  pulverization  is  eft'ected  in  arrastras,  and  the  amalgamation  in  wooden  tubs  with  iron 
bottoms.  The  stirring  is  done  by  four  crooked  iron  arms  fastened  to  a  vertical  shaft  which 
revolves  in  the  centre  of  the  tub.  1'Lere  is  no  muller  or  grinding  of  the  ore  in  the  tub. 
The  process  requires  six  or  eight  hours. 

In  185U  there  were  in  the  province  of  Atacama  75  productive  silver  mines,  19S  unpro-  • 
ductive,  and  2,914  persons  employed.     The  amount  of  ore  extracted  was  15,398,1)96  pounds, 
of  which  10,480,UOO  were  credited  to  Chanarcello  and  3,000,000  to  Tres  Puntas. 

At  Chanarcello  there  wore  \^  productive  mines  and  97  that  had  been  opened  and  had  not 
paid  expenses.  The  total  yield  of  the  10,480,000  pounds  of  ore  obtained  at  Chanarcello  was 
$2,700,000,  of  which  $2,100,000  was  net  profit.* 

It  would  appear  from  this  statement  that  the  ores  extracted  j'ield  on  average  more  than 
$5,000  per  ton.  The  total  yield  of  the  Chanarcello  district  from  18  \2  to  181)0  is  estimated  at 
$80,000,000.  The  value  of  the  silver  exported  irom  Chili  was  $59,931  in  1830  ;  $761,406  in 
1835  ;  $1,381,030  in  1845;  $3,555,045  in  1850. 

The  Tres  Puntas  mines  were  discovered  in  1849,  and  are  7,000  feet  above  the  sea.     Water 

*  U.  S.  Kaval  Astronomical  Expedition,  vol.  1,  p.  2G-2. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  651 

costs  there  six  cents  ])cr  gallon,  and  the  country  is  still  more  desolate  than  about  Chafiar- 
cello. 

The  hill  of  Chanarcello  is  composed  of  repfular  strata,  nearlj'  horizontal,  of  rocks  partly 
calcareous,  and  partly  arjjillaceous.  In  the  deepest  uorkiiigs  there  are  porpliyries  and  some 
dolomites.     The  (uvs  ari>  chictly  chlorides  and  bromides  either  separate  or  mixed. 

Cerro  Blanco.  ;?0  miles  east-southeast  of  Chanarcello,  has  a  number  of  lodes  which  were 
rich  in  silver  near  the  surface,  but  in  the  lower  depths  they  yield  little  save  copper,  of  which 
the  ore  has  a  large  percentage. 

Carriso,  in  latitude  28-  45',  has  some  rich  silver  lodes  and  one  of  gold.  Eight  miles  south- 
east of  Carriso  isAgua  Amarga.a  hill  resembling  Bolaco,  at  Chanarcello,  with  as  many 
argentiferous  lodes,  but  not  so  rich.  Most  of  them  arc  now  abandoned.  A  mile  from  Ai-ua 
Amarga  are  the  mines  of  Tunas,  which  yielded  §400,000  of  native  and  ruby  silver  near  the 
surface. 

BRAZIL. 

The  placers  of  Brazil,  the  richest  known  to  modern  times  previous  to  the  beginning  of 
this  century,  are  found  over  an  area  300  miles  wide,  from  north  to  south  between  parallels 
17  and  '22  of  south  latitude,  in  the  mountains  which  separate  the  valleys  of  the  Amazon 
and  the  La  Plata,  and  800  miles  long,  extending  from  the  western  boundary  of  Brazil  nearly 
to  the  Atlantic.  The  rocks  are  granite  in  the  higher  peaks,  with  micaceous  schists  and  slates 
lower  down,  intersected  by  numerous  veins  of  quartz.  Itacolumite  is  found  extensively,  and 
diamonds,  which  are  seldom  found  near  it,  are  abundant  in  Brazil,  which  lias  furnished  more 
of  those  precious  stones  than  all  the  other  diamond  mines  in  modern  times.  These  are, 
indeed,  the  only  diamond  mines  of  any  note  in  Christendom.  Very  little  is  done  in  them 
now.  The  gold  was  discovered  at  Minas  Geraes  in  ICydd,  and  soon  attracted  a  considerable 
population.  The  gold  deposits  of  Jacoabina  and  of  Rio  do  Carmowere  opened  in  1700,  and 
those  of  Mato  Grosso  in  J734.  From  1752  to  17G1  the  production  was  largest,  and  there 
were  then  80,000  miners  employed.  It  is  said  that  in  one  year  the  production  was 
$20,000,000.  It  is  a  matter  of  record  that  the  20  per  cent,  tax  on  the  gross  product,  or  tlie 
king's  fifth  as  it  was  called,  for  the  district  of  Minas  Geraes  was  $2,000,000  for  I7r>3.  In 
1725,  when  the  yield  was  considerably  less  than  it  became  a  quarter  of  a  century  later, 
there  were  100,0(10  slaves  at  work,  and  it  was  estimated  that  they  took  out  an  eighth  of  an 
ounce  each  per  day,  as  we  learn  from  Sonthey ;  *"  but  as  this  would  give  a  total  yield  of 
$60,000,000  annually,  we  must  infer  that  many  of  the  slaves  were  employed  in  other  pur- 
suits, and  that  many  of  the  slave  miners  did  not  make  their  eighth  of  an  ounce  per  day. 
The  largest  Brazilian  nugget  of  which  we  find  any  mention,  weighed  13  pounds  and  sold  for 
about  !3!2,600.  After  1775  the  yield  declined  rapidly.  In  1812  the  production  was  about 
§4,000,000,  and  in  1822  $700,000,  and  now  it  probably  does  not  exceed  .$500,000.  The  total 
yield  of  the  Brazilian  gold  mines  from  the  time  of  their  discovery  till  1803  was  estimated  by 
Humboldt  at  S'r55,500,000,  and  we  may  estimate  the  production  since  1803  at  $70,000,000, 
making  the  total  contribution  of  gold  by  Brazil  $025,500,000  in  a  period  of  2G8  years  :  less 
than  California  has  fwrnished  in  20  years.  So  far  Brazil  has  only  two  quartz  mines,  the  St. 
John  and  the  Gongo  Soco.     The  latter  yielded  33,000  pounds  of  gold  from  1820  to  184'J.t 

Of  the  St.  John,  Whitueyt  says  :  "The  mine  ot  St.  John  del  Rey  is  the  most  remarkable 
gold  quartz  mine  in  the  world,  having  been  worked  for  a  longer  time  and  having  produced 
more  gold  than  any  other.  The  working  was  commenced  about  1725,  and  after  nearly  a 
hundred  years  of  success  was  abandoned,  and  in  1834  the  working  was  resumed,  and  Iroiu 
1838  to  1852  the  mine  paid  a  profit  of  $1,500,000.  The  amount  of  rock  reduced  was  34,000 
tons  in  1840,  and  82,000  in  1852,  the  increase  being  gradual.  The  profit  varied  from  $2  to  $3 
per  ton.  The  rock  contained  about  .004  per  cent,  of  metal.  The  crushing  was  done  with  1  IS 
stamps.  The  mine  is  owned  by  a  company  which  had  1,000  slaves  and  employed  80  Euro- 
pean overseers,  mechanics,  &;c.     One  of  the  mines  was  1,200  feet  deep." 

BRITISH  POSSESSIONS. 

BRITISH  COLUMBIA. 

The  gold  mines  of  British  Columbia  are  in  the  basins  of  the  Fraser  and  Columbia  rivers. 

The  chief  mining  district  is  Cariboo,  on  the  north  side  of  the  north  fork  of  Quesnclle 
river,  100  miles  above  the  mouth  of  that  stream,  in  latitude  53-^,  and  100  miles  from  the 
ocean,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  a  range  of  mountains  8,000  or  10.000  feet  higli.  The 
■winters  are  very  severe,  and  they  last  from  October  to  June,  during  which  period  tlio  country 
is  covered  with  a  deej)  snow.  In  July  and  August  the  streams  are  at  flood  lu-ight.  Tho 
gold  is  found  at  a  depth  varying  from  12  to  lOO  feet  from  the  surface  in  tho  beds  and  banks 
of  creeks,  some  of  which  run  through  swamps.  The  aimferous  deposit  is  very  rich,  and  if  it 
were  in  a  genial  clime  and  favorably  situated,  the  yield  per  day  would  rival  if  not  surpass 
anything  ever  found  in  California,  but  the  great  cost  of  all  supplies,  the  necessity  of  lying 
idle  a  large  part  of  the  year,  and  the  difficulty  of  finding  good  claims,  pre^■ent  it  from  being 

*Uistory  of  Brazil,  chapter  XXXYI.  t  Calvert,  p.  231.  ;  Mttallic  Wealth,  p.  Ill, 


652 


■RESOURCES    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 


an  attractive  place  for  miners.  Claims  that  Lave  been  well  opened  have,  in  many  instances, 
paid  for  a  few  weeks  or  month  $500  per  day  to  the  man.  One  claim  25  by  80  feet  yielded 
$105,000.  The  gold  on  Antler  creek  is  830  fine ;  on  Lowhee  creek  920.  The  metal  is  fomid 
in  coarse  rough  lumps,  which  look  as  though  they  had  not  moved  far  from  their  rocky  source. 
Some  auriferous  quartz  lodes  have  been  discovered,  but  little  has  been  done  in  quartz  mining. 

The  gold  in  the  basin  of  the  Columbia  is  found  in  the  beds,  bars,  and  banks  of  creeks, 
between  parallels  49°  and  51'.  The  diggings  are  mostly  shallow,  and  not  rich,  although,  as 
they  cover  a  considerable  extent  of  country,  they  may  in  the  course  of  a  few  years  produce 
more  gold  than  Cariboo. 

The  following  table  shows  the  amount  of  gold  shipped  from  Victoria  to  San  Francisco : 


Year. 

Am't  shipped. 

Year. 

Am't  shipped. 

1858 

$337,  765 
1,211,304 
1,  652, 621 
1, 942,  629 
2, 167, 183 

1863 

1864 

$2,  935, 172 

1859     .  ■       

2,  784. 226 

I860     

1865 

2, 067, 661 

1861 

1866 

1,  625, 311 

Ig62                   

1867,  (9  months) 

1, 100, 588 

AUSTRALIA. 


The  colony  of  Victoria  in  Australia  did  not  begin  to  produce  gold  until  1851,  but  the  next 
year  it  had  already  risen  nearly  to  a  level  with  California,  and  since  then  the  two  States 
Lave  kept  nearly  an  equal  pace.  The  following  table  shows  the  number  of  ounces  exported 
annually  from  Melbourne,  and  the  value  as  estimated  in  pounds  sterling  : 


Year. 

Ounces. 

Value. 

1851 

145, 147 
2, 724. 933 
3,]50;021 
2,  392,  065 
2,  793,  065 
2, 985,  696 
2. 761, 528 
2,  528, 188 

£580,  587 
10,  899.  733 
12,  600,  083 

9,  568,  262 
11,172,261 
11,942,783 
11,046,113 
10,112,752  ■ 

1852 

1853 

1854 

1855 

1856 

1857 

1858 

Year. 


1859 
1860, 
1861 
1862 
1863 
1864 
1865 
1866. 


Ounces. 


2,  280,  676 
2, 156,  661 
1, 967, 420 
1,  658, 285 
1,  627,  066 
1,  544. 694 
1, 543, 801 
1, 480,  597 


Value. 


£9, 122, 702 
8,  626,  642 
7,  869, 758 
6,  685. 192 
6,  507,  488 
6, 173,  776 
6, 175, 204 
5,  928,  948 


We  have  no  plain  descripHon  of  the  character  of  the  quartz  lodes  and  placers  of  Victoria, 
but  they,  especially  the  latter,  differ  from  those  of  California.  Water  is  far  less  abundant; 
ditches  are  fewer,  smaller,  and  less  costly;  hydraulic  claims,  tunnel  claims,  and  sluices  are 
rarer ;  shaft  claims  are  far  more  numerous ;  the  character  of  the  leads  appear  to  be  less  dis- 
tinct ;  the  gold  is  generally  coarser  in  size  and  finer  in  quality,  alid  the  gold-bearing  strata 
seem  to  be  richer.  There  are  few  placer  claims  in  California  that  would  pay  for  hoisting 
dirt  100  feet  through  shafts,  and  washing  in  puddling  boxes,  as  is  done  in  many  Australian 
claims.  We  see  no  mention  in  Victoria  books  or  newspapers  of  ancient  rivers,  which  occupy 
a  very  prominent  place  in  the  placer  mining  of  California. 

Some  of  the  peculiarities  of  placer  mining  in  Victoria  are  suggested  in  the  following  extract 
from  Westgarth :  ' 

Alluvial  mininir.  however,  differs  fi-om  quartz  mining:  in  not  hcinp:  mainly  dependent  on  steam  machinery. 
Much  of  it  i'^  stili  coiuhietcd  by  mesc  manual  labor.  Imt  under  appliances  cither  new  or  much  improved  during  i 
the  last  10  years.  ]  lorse-powei-  luus  also  been  laviiely  introiluced,  and  it  is  the  great  motive  force  of  the  puddling  ' 
muclune,  that  grand  institution  of  the  aUuvial  mining  world.  This  machine  rapitUy  supplanted  the  orig-iuai  ■ 
cradle  and  tub;  in  fact,  it  represents  both  upon  a  giant  scale.  The  miner  could  readily  apprehend  tliat  if 
an  ordinary  wa.shing  tul)  of  tliree  or  four  feet  in  diameter  could  be  made  to  yield  an  ounce  of  gold  per  day,  ■ 
cue  of  as  many  yards  must,  if  equidly  well  worked,  yield  proportionatelj'  more.  l"iie  cradle  arrangement  vrki  • 
adapted  to  the  "gravel ;  while  the  tub  was  suited  to  the  puddling  of  the  finer  debris,  such  as  pipe  clay  or  dirt  I 
beds,  which  were  much  more  frequent  to  the  miner  thtm  pm-o  gravel.  Puddling  by  wholesale  was  therefore  ■ 
a  subject  of  early  uttoutiou. 

STATIONS   OF  VICTORIA. 

At  the  end  of  1866,  there  were  70,804  men  engaged  in  mining,  a  decrease  of  nearly  10,000 
within  a  year,  of  27,000  since  1862,  and  of  54,000  since  1859;  the  average  weekly  earnings   t 
of  miners  were  £1  lis.,  or  about  .§7  75  each,  and  in  1852  they  were  §22  40. 

The  machinery  employed  in  quartz  mining  consisted  of  522  steam  engines,  with  an  aggre- 
gate of  9,079  horse-power ;  62  water  and  Lorse-power  crushing  machines  ;  55  water  wheels; 
)>V}  whims  and  pulleys;  6  derricks,  and  74  whips. 

The  machinery  employed  in  alluvial  mining  consisted  of  451  steam  engines,  with  an  aggre- 
gate of  9,338  horse-power;  2,799  horse-puddling  machines;  400  whims  and  pulleys:  110 
whips;  621  sluices  and  toms;  159  water  wheels ;  30  hydraulic  boxes;  179  pumps ;  5,835 
sluice  boxes,  and  3  boring  machines. 


WEST   OP   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS 


653 


Tlio  total  estimated  viiluo  of  tlio  inachiuery  employed  in  miuing  was  $9,500,000,  aud  the 
cliiims  tbemselve.s  $43,0(.I0,000. 

The  lenctb  oftlie  rnininp  uices,  or  as  wo  call  them  "ditches, "at  the  end  of  1864  was  1,747 
miles,  antfthe  approximate  cost  iu941,Gr>3,  or  $539  per  mile.  In  the  Stanley  sub-district,  tho 
races  cost  more  than  §'2,000  per  mile,  tho  high  average  being  caused  partly  by  14,oti3  yards 
of  tunnelling. 

Tho  poorest  gold  was  742  fine,  and  sold  for  £3  3s.  per  ounce,  and  tho  richest  was  9fiG 
fine,  and  sold  for  £4  "25.  per  ounce.     Tho  mean  lineness  was  8.'>4. 

About  one-third  of  tht;  gold  comes  from  quartz,  and  one-third  from  alluvial  mines. 

Tho  total  number  of  distinct  quartz  lodes  proved  to  be  aiu-ifcrous  is  1,700,  and  the  area  of 
am'ilerous  alluvial  and  quartz  ground  worked  upon  is  S92  square  miles. 

In  1864,  843,515  tons  of  quartz  yielded  433,9dl  ounces,  or  $9  54  per  ton  of  2,240  pounds. 
This  is  the  only  quartz  of  which  returns  were  obtained,  though  it  is  known  that  more  was 
crushed ;  how  much  more  is  not  shown  in  the  reports. 

The  population  at  the  end  of  lbG5  was  410,000,  the  number  of  sheep  11,000,000,  neat  cattle 
2,00t*,00U;  the  deposits  in  savings  and  other  banks  £6,66d,060. 

The  exports  of  wool  in  1865  were  30,000,000  pounds,  the  number  of  acres  cultivated  378,000  ; 
the  yield  of  wheat  nine  bushels  per  acre  on  the  average,  an  average  yield  of  33bushels  of  maize 
per  acre ;  the  production  of  coal  585,000  tons,  and  the  importation  of  wheat  and  flour  above 
exports  £585,000  in  value.  The  number  of  miners'  licenses  issued  in  that  year  were  15,458, 
and  assuming  that  this  figure  represents  the  number  of  miners,  the  average  yield  of  the  mines 
per  man  for  the  year  was  £75.*  The  wages  of  bricklayers,  masons',  and  carpenters  vary 
from  §1  75  to  $2  50  per  day  in  Melbourne. 

NEW   SOUTH  Wi\LES. 

The  following  table  shows  the  exportation  in  ounces  of  tho  colony  of  New  South  Wales, 
year  by  year,  since  1857 : 


Year. 

Esport.i- 
tiou.      i 

Year. 

Exporta- 
tion. 

Year. 

Exporta- 
tion,     j 

Year. 

Exporta- 
tion. 

1851 

Ounces. 
161,880 
m  500  I 
173,  960  1 
148, 900 

1855 

Ouncrs. 
107,250 
134,  9;-0 
148  126 
255, 535 

1859 

I860 

Ounces. 
293,  .574 
355,  3'28  . 
403,  139  I 
584, 219  1 

1803 

Ounces. 
4L'2,  722 

18.52. 

18.56      

1864 

1865 

1866 

314,351 

1853 

1857 

1861 „.. 

1862 

279,  121 

1854 

235,  893 

The  gold  yield  in  this  colony  decreased  for  three  years  after  1852,  and  then  increased 
rapidly  for  seven  years,  and  again  began  to  decline.  The  decrease  since  1862  is  attributed  by 
one  of  the  Sydney  newspapers  to  the  exclusion  of  Chinamen  from  the  mines,  nud  that  policy 
lias  no  doubt  had  a  very  injurious  efl'ect  on  the  production. 

NEW   ZE.\LAND. 

The  mines  of  New  Zealand  were  opened  in  1858,  and  produced  hut  little  for  three  years, 
and  then  rose  rapidly  in  importance.  The  manifested  exported  was  187,t)95  ounces  in  1861, 
and  ;J39,722  ounces  in  1862.  The  amount  of  Now  Zealand  shipped  to  England  by  way  of 
Melbourne  was  284,118  ounces  in  1863;  311,767  ounces  in  lb64  ;  216,04(>  ounces  in  1865, 
and  407,394  ounces  in  1866.  The  total  exportation  of  1865  was  reported  to  be  £2,226,474, 
equivalent  to  about  811,000,000. 

Westg.vrtii's  E-stiaiates. — Westgarth  makes  the  following  estimates  of  the  total  pro- 
duction of  the  Australarian  gold  fields,  from  1851  to  the  cud  of  1863  : 


Year. 

Victoria. 

New    South 
Wales. 

New  Zealand. 

1851 

$3,  000, 000 

54,  .500,  000 
63,  000,  000 
48,  000,  000 
57,  000,  000 
.59,  500,  000 

55,  000,  000 
50,  500,  000 
45.  500,  000 
43,  000,  000 
39,  500,  000 
34,5011.000 
32,  000,  000 

$3.  000,  000 
6,  000,  000 

5,  500,  000 
2,  500,  000 

2,  500,  000 
3,000,000 

3,  500,  000 
5,500,1)00 

6,  DUO,  000 

7,  000,  000 

8,  OuO,  OOO 
12.  000,  000 

8,  500,  000 

185J         

1853         

1854 

1855 

1856 

1857 

18.".8 

$51)0,  000 

1859 

.500,  000 

1860 

5:0,000 

1861 

4,  000,  000 

1862 

8,  01. '0,  000 

1863 

14,  500,  000 

T  tal                                         

584, 000,  000 

73,  000,  000 

28,  000,  000 

The  total  annual  production  of  the  Australian  and  New  Zealand  gold  mines  may  be  esti- 
mated at  $50,UL>0,000.     (Westgarth  p.  345.    Pounds  (£)  calculatad  at  §5  each.) 

^Melbourne  Age,  January  4,  1867. 


654  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND   TEJRRITORIES 

RUSSIAN  POSSESSIONS. 


Siberia  ranks  third  among  gold-producing  countries,  and  for  a  quarter  of  a  century  before 
the  discovery  of  the  Californiau  mines,  ranked  first.  The  gold  mining  of  the  Russian  empire 
liegan  in  placers  at  Jekaterinburg  in  1742 ;  in  1753  quartz  mines  were  opened  at  Berezov  ; 
in  1829  the  placers  on  the  western  part  of  the  Altai  were  opened,  and  in  1833  those  of  eastern 
Siberia.  The  production  was  small  for  along  time, averaging  only  about  $23,000  annually 
of  placer  gold  from  1814  to  1820;  but  after  the  latter  year  it  increased  with  great  rapidity, 
averaging  $1,668,900  in  the  next  decenniuni,  and  $3,860,000  in  the  10  years  from  1830  to 
1840,  and  $12,200,000  for  the  next  decennium.  This  is  exclusive  of  the  quartz  gold,  which 
from  1752  to  1850,  amounted  to  $28,000,000.  The  yield  in  1853  was  estimated  by  WTiitney 
at  64,000  pounds  troy,  or  about  $14,500,000.  In  1862  the  production  was  reported  to  be 
about  $10,000,000. 

As  a  gold-producing  country,  Russia  ranks  next  to  the  United  States,  and  the  colony  of 
Victoria,  the  present  annual  yield  being  about  $15,000,000.  The  mines  are  all  in  Siberia, 
in  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Ural,  and  on  the  northern  slope  of  the  Altai  mountains.  The 
former  chain  runs  with  the  meridian  from  latitude  45°  to  67°,  and  is  auriferous  for  most  of 
its  length,  but  its  chief  wealth  is  on  the  Siberian  side. 

The  Altai  chain  runs  nearly  parallel  with  the  equator,  about  latitude  50°,  and  the  auri- 
ferous river  beds  and  hills  extend  as  far  as  60°,  or  even  furtber.  The  Altai  reminds  us  of 
the  Sierra  Nevada ;  both  chains  separate  high  and  desert  table  lands  from  districts  with  rich 
soil  and  abundant  streams ;  and  the  side  which  has  the  streams  abounds  in  gold,  while  silver 
is  found  on  the  other  side.* 

The  climate  of  Siberia  is  very  severe,  and  in  most  of  the  placer  districts  the  ground  is  con- 
stantly frozen  at  a  depth  of  three  and  a  half  feet,  the  cold  of  winter  penetrating  much  deeper, 
and  tbe  thawing  influence  of  summer  only  reaching  to  that  depth.  Washing  is  only  possible 
between  May  and  September,  so  that  half  the  year  is  lost  for  mining  purposes.  The  mines 
are  owned  by  the  government  or  by  wealthy  proprietors,  and  the  laborers  are  ignorant  and 
poor  men,  who  bring  neither  intelligence  nor  zeal  to  their  aid.  Each  laborer  receives  from 
his  employer  a  certain  ration  of  meal,  and  his  money  wages  amount  to  about  half  an  ounce 
of  gold  for  a  yeiir,  or  something  like  half  an  ounce  of  silver  per  month — 50  or  60  cents  a 
month. t 

The  methods  of  placer  working  are  not  described  fully  in  any  of  tbe  authors  whose 
books  are  accessible  in  this  country ;  but  it  seems  evident  that  the  amount  of  earth  washed 
is  considerably  less,  in  proportion  to  the  number  of  laborers,  than  in  the  Anglo-Saxon 
mines.  It  is  said  that  Californian  modes  of  washing  have  been  introduced  to  a  limited 
extent  in  a  few  of  the  districts ;  but  we  have  no  account  of  large  ditches,  of  deep  hydraulic 
claims,  of  ancient  river  beds,  or  of  various  other  interesting  facts  which  mark  mining  in 
California.  And  yet  the  number  of  miners  in  Siberia  is  reported  to  be  only  40,000,  and  if 
they  can  obtain  $15,000,000  in  six  months  they  make  a  very  fair  average  production,  much 
larger  than  would  be  presumed  from  the  cash  wages  of  $10  or  §12  per  year.  According 
to  Atkinsont  the  pay  dirt  at  Tagilsk  contains  one  oitnce  of  goldiu  60,000  of  each,  or  $3 
in  a  ton.  Duport$  says  the  richness  in  1829  was  two  ounces  in  100,000.  In  California 
$1  to  the  ton  of  earth  in  a  hydraulic  claim  is  considered  rich,  and  many  mines  that  do  not 
contain  more  than  50  cents  to  the  ton  are  worked  with  large  profit.  It  is  difficult,  however, 
to  make  comparisons  between  California  and  Siberia  in  the  absence  of  precise  information 
in  regard  to  the  mines  of  the  latter  country.  There  are  many  places  in  California  in  which 
the  pay  dirt  has  yielded  more  than  $50  to  the  ton  of  pay  dirt,  and  in  some  claims  where  tbe 
auriferous  deposit  was  very  shallow,  or  where  it  could  only  be  reached  by  deep  shafts  or 
long  tunnels,  or  where  water  was  very  scarce,  it  could  not  be  worked  profitably  for  less  than 
$25.  One  very  serious  drawback  to  mining  in  Siberia  is  the  fact  that  the  government 
levies  a  tax  of  15  per  cent,  on  the  gross  yield  of  all  mines,  and  from  30  to  35  per  cent,  on  all 
which  yield  more  than  $400,000  annually. || 

As  to  the  modes  of  quartz  mining,  Erraan  says  : 

The  oi'o  collected  is  poiu-ed  iuto  long-  troncrlis  where  water  is  added  oiid  it  is  beaten  with  cast-iron 
staiuiioj's.  The  current  of  water  which  contiunally  Hows  on  it  through  pijies,  carries  off  the  fine  powder 
over  the  washing  benches  Avhich  ure  hiid  like  slightly  inclined  terraces  under  the  troughs,  wlule  many  of 
the  heavier  grains  of  gohl  I'idl  into  the  interstices  "of  the  double  iron  bottom  of  the  stamping  trough  and  are 
collected  from  time  to  time.  As  is  usual  with  poor  saud,  it  is  often  raked  upwards  on  the  benches  with  a 
wooden  rako.  Ores  wliich,  as  hero  yield  oio  about  one  part  in  ti4,0U0  of  theii-  weight  of  metal,  give  not 
more  than  one  part  in  l.OHO.OOO  to  the  fust  straining.  The  richest  part  of  the  product  which  rest  upou  tho 
upper  benches  is  well  washed  again  in  laiger  receptacles,  as  tho  weight  prevents  its  being  cai-ried  off,  but 
the  poorer  and  finer  part  is  again  exposed  to  the  atmosphere  fjid  a  second  time  washed  on  little  tables  to 
which  the  water  is  led  through  pipes  tliat  can  be  dii'ccted  upon  any  point.  Tho  iron,  some  of  which  is 
from  the  wear  of  the  stampers,  is  rLmoved  from  the  fine  deposit  by  a'mugnet.  Though  the  sepai'ation  of 
the  gold  ha.s  bceu  attempted  by  amalgamation,  espcrieuce  has  proved  that  cai-eful  washiug  is  quite  as  effec- 

*  The  Uial  mountains  arc  notably  auriferous  on  the  eastern  or  Siberian  side  only,  and  as  fiir  as  surveys 
have  gone.,  it  would  appear  that  one  fiank  only  of  the  Austridiau  water  sheds  exhibit  rich  accimiulatioiis  of 
gold  debris,  but  in  this  case  it  is  the  western  or  intci-ior  side  of  the  range.    (Caivcrt,  p.  13G.) 
t  Atkinson,  p.  173.  ;  Tagc  208.  §  Page  305.  ||  Chevalier,  p.  83. 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 


655 


tunl.  Special  nn'anp:orHonts  aro  jTinil','  for  eoiitiniiing  this  oponition  throupli  (ho  winter;  tlic  wiiiilows  nro 
c'lirefuUy  caulkeil,  stovCK  Jicatod  l\v  horizontal  shafts  numinir  below  thmn  arc  pn'ijarcd  for  tlunviii};-  the  iro- 
sscu  uiuil  uiul  .sand,  iniil  the  materials  iiassed  in  to  tin-  apartini'iit  IhinULch  a  narrow  trap  in  tin:  v.al]  oi- 
thf  opening  of  u  door  would  sometimes  lower  the  teiuperatiue  to  the  freezing  ixiiut  in  a  few  minutes.  (Vol. 
1,  p.  207.) 

The  gold  mines  of  RiLssia  were  opcnecl  at  Ickaferiuburg,  on  the  Ural  chain,  in  174;?, 
and  in  IT.'i'J  qnartz  workings  wcro  commenced  at  Berczov,but  the  Ural  placers  first  became 
important  in  If'il.  The  placers  of  western  Siberia  were  opened  in  1H-3U,  and  those  of  east- 
ern Siberia  in  l!!<3S.     The  yield  is  reported*  as  follows: 

Placer  gold  from  1814  to  18-20 1,085  pounds  troy. 

Placer  gold  from  1820  to  18:50 73,200       " 

Placer  gold  from   18:50  to  1840 175,400        "  " 

Placer  gold  from  1840  to  1850 55:5,955 

Quartz  gold  from  1752  to  1850 128,570 

Approximate  statement  of  the  value  of  the  total  annual  production  of  gold  and  silver  ?k  the 
principal  countries  of  the  world,  during  the  year  1867. 

[This  table  is  extracted  by  permission  from  the  unpublished  report  of  Prof.  Wm.  P.  Blake, 
upcn  the  "Production  of  the  Precious  Metals,"  from  data  obtained  at  the  Paris  Universal 
Exposition.  It  is  the  result  of  extended  investigation  of  the  most  recent  statistics  from  all 
parts  of  the  world,  and  although  not  yet  complete,  presents  approximately,  in  round  num- 
bers, the  value  of  the  gold  and  silver  production  of  the  world.] 


Country. 

Value. 

Country. 

Value. 

$72,  000,  000 
3,  000,  000 
10, 000, 000 

10, 000,  000 

33,  200,  000 
6,  000, 000 

$1.5, 200, 000 
10,  600,  000 
10,  000,  OtX) 

British  Possessions,  (estimated  for  1867) . 

France,  Austria, Saxony,  Spain, Italj^ 
Great  Biitain,Norway  and  Sweden. 

Borneo  and  the  East  Indies,  China, 
Japan,  and  Cent'l  Asia,  (estimatedt) . 

Central  and  South  America,  (estimated 

Australia,  inclndiugNew  South  AVales, 

1,  OOO,  OQO 

Total 

New  Zealand,  (ettimated  for  1867*) 

171  000  000 

*Whitney,  p.  89. 


t  Subject  to  revision. 


656 


KESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 


APPENDIX. 


INSTRUCTIONS  FROM  THE  COMMISSIONER  OF  THE  GENERAL  LAND  OFFICE 
TO  THE  REGISTERS  AND  RECEIVERS. 

DEPARTirEXT  OF  THE  INTERIOE, 

General  Land  Office,  January  14,  1867. 

GENTLEJrEN :  HcrcT\-ith  •n-ill  be  founn  the  act  of  Congress,  approved  26th  July,  1866,  "  granting  the  right 
of  way  to  ditch  and  canal  owners  over  the  public  lands,  and  for  other  purposes." 

By  the  first  section  of  this  act  all  tlic^  mineral  lands  of  the  United  States,  sun-eyed  and  unsurveyed,  are 
laid  open  to  "  all  citizens  of  the  United  States,  and  to  those  who  have  declared  their  intention  to  become 
such,  subject  to  statutory  rep;ulations,"  and  idso  "to  the  local  customs  or  rules  of  miners  in  the  several 
mining  districts  not  in  conflict  with  the  laws  of  the  United  States." 

It  therefore  becomes  your  duty,  in  limine,  to  acquaint  yourselves  with  the  local  mining  customs  and 
usages  in  the  Astrict  in  which  yoii  may  be  called  upon  to  do  those  official  acts  which  iire  required  by  lavr, 
whether  the  same  arc  reduced  to  authentic  written  foi-m,  or  arc  to  be  ascertained  by  the  testimony  of  intel- 
ligent miners,  which  you  are  to  obtain  as  occasion  may  require  ajid  justify,  in  acting  upon  iudividual  claims, 
a  perfect  record  whereof  is  to  be  carefully  taken  and  preserved  by  the  register  and  I'eceivei',  and  to  be 
accompanied  by  a  diagram  or  plat  fixing  the  out  boundaries  of  tlic  district  iu  which  such  customs  aud 
usages  exist. 

The  second  section  of  the  act  declares  that  "  whenever  any  person  or  association  of  persons  claim  a  vera 
or  lode  of  quartz  or  other  rock  in  place,  bearing  gold,  silver,  cinnabni-,  or  copper,  having  previously  occu- 
pied and  improved  the  same  according  to  the  local  customs  or  rules  of  miners  iu  the  ilistiiet  where  the 
same  is  situated,  and  having  expended  in  actual  labor  and  improvements  thereon  an  amount  of  not  less 
than  one  thousand  dollars,  aud  in  regard  to  whose  possession  there  is  no  controversy  or  opposing  claim,  it 
shall  and  may  be  lawful  for  said  chumant,  or  association  of  claimants,  to  file  in  the' local  land  office  a  dia- 
gram of  the  same,  so  extended  laterally  or  otherwise,  as  to  conform  to  the  local  laws,  customs,  and  rides  of 
miners,  and  to  enter  such  tract  and  receive  a  patent  therefor,  granting  such  mine,  together  with  the  right 
to  follow  such  vein  or  lode  with  its  dips,  angles,  and  variations,  to  any  depth,  idthough  it  may  enter  the 
land  adjoining,  which  laud  adjoining  shall  be  sold  subject  to  this  condition." 

Mining  claims  may  be  entered  at  any  district  land  office  in  the  United  States  midcr  this  law  by  any  per- 
son, or  association  of  persons,  corporate  or  incorporate.  In  making  the  entry,  however,  such  a  description 
of  the  tract  must  be  filed  as  wUl  indicate  the  vein  or  lode,  or  part  or  portion  thereof  claimed,  together  with 
a  diagram  leprescnting,  by  reference  to  some  natural  or  artifacial  monument,  the  position  and  location  of 
the  claim  and  the  boundaries  thereof,  so  far  as  such  boundaries  can  be  ascertained. 

First.  In  all  cases  the  number  of  feet  in  length  claimed  on  tlie  vein  or  lode  shall  be  stated  iu  the  applica- 
tion filed  as  aforesaid,  and  the  lines  limiting  the  length  of  the  claim  shall,  also,  in  all  cases  be  exhibited  on 
the  diagram,  and  the  course  or  dii'cetion  of  such  end  lines,  when  not  fixed  by  agi-eement  with  the  adjoining 
claimants,  nor  by  the  local  customs  or  rules  of  the  miners  of  the  district,  shall  l3e  drawn  at  right  angles  to 
the  ascertained  or  apparent  general  course  of  the  vein  or  lode. 

Second.  Where,  by  the  local  laws,  customs,  or  rules  of  miners  of  the  district,  no  surface  ground  is  per- 
mitted to  be  occupie"(l  for  mining  purposes  except  the  surface  of  the  vein  or  lode,  and  the  walls  of  such  vein 
or  lode  are  unascertained  and  the  lateral  extent  of  such  vein  or  lode  unknown,  it  shall  be  sufficient,  after 
giving  the  description  aud  diagram  aforesaid,  to  state  the  fact  that  the  extent  of  such  vein  or  lode  cannot 
be  ascertained  by  actual  measurement,  but  that  the  said  vein  or  lode  is  bounded  on  each  side  bv  the  walls  of 
the  same,  aud  to  estimate  the  amount  of  ground  contained  between  the  given  end  lines  and  the  unascer- 
tained walls  of  the  vein  or  lode ;  and  in  such  case  the  patent  will  issue  for  all  the  land  contained  between 
such  end  liues  and  side  walls,  with  the  right  to  Ibllow  such  vein  or  lode,  with  all  its  dips,  angles,  and  varih- 
tions,  to  any  depth,  although  it  may  enter  the  land  adjoining:  Provided,  The  estimated  qirantity  shall  I)0 
equal  to  a  horizontal  plfme,  boimdeil  by  the  given  end  lines,  aud  the  walls  on  the  sides  of  such  vein  or  lode. 

Thbtl.  Wiicrc,  by  the  local  laws,  customs  or  rules  of  miners  of  the  district,  no  surface  gi'ound  is  per- 
mitted to  be  occupied  for  mining  purposes,  except  the  surface  of  the  vein  or  lode,  and  the  walls  of  such  vein 
or  lode  ai-e  ascertained  and  welt  known,  such  wall  shall  be  named  in  the  description,  and  marked  on  the 
diagram,  in  connection  with  the  end  lines  of  such  tlaims. 

Fourth.  "Where,  by  the  laws,  customs,  or  rules  of  mmcrs  of  the  district,  a  given  quantity  of  surface 
ground  is  fixed  for  the  purpose  of  mining  or  milling  the  ore,  the  aforesaid  diagram  and  description  in  the 
entry  shall  correspond  with  aud  include  so  much  of  the  sm-lacc  as  shall  be  allowed  by  such  laws,  customs, 
or  rules  for  the  i)urpose  aforesaid. 

Fifth.  In  llie  absence  of  uniform  niles  in  any  mining  district  limiting  the  amount  of  surface  to  be  used 
for  mining  pur]>oses,  actual  and  peaceable  use  and  occupation  for  mining  and  mdling  purposes,  shall  1)0 
regarded  a.s  evidence  of  a  custom  of  miners  authorizing  the  same,  and  the  ground  so  occupied  and  used  in 
coiineelinn  m  iili  llie  vein  or  lode,  and  Ining  adjaecMit  thereto,  may  bo  included  within  the  entry  aforesaid, 
ami  the  diagram  shidl  embraee  the  same  as  aiipurtcnant  to  tliC  mine. 

Where  th(!  <laiuiaid  or  eluiinauts  desire  to  include  within  tlieir  entry  and  diagrtmi  any  surfiiee  ground 
beyond  llie  surface  of  the  vein,  it  shall  be  necessary,  upon  filing  the  application,  to  furnisn  the  register  of 
the  land  office  with  proof  of  the  usage,  law,  or  custom  under  which  he  or  they  claim  such  snrfai'C  grouud, 
and  such  evidence  may  consist  either  of  the  written  rules  of  the  miners  of  the  district,  or  the  testimony  oi 
two  credible  witnesses  to  tlie  unifonn  custom  or  the  actual  use  and  occupation  as  aforesaid,  which  testimony 
shall  be  reduei'd  to  writing  by  the  register  and  receiver,  and  tiled  in  the  register's  office,  with  the  appli- 
cation, u  i-eeord  thereof  to  be  made  as  cDnteniplated  under  the  first  head  in  the  foregoing. 

By  the  tliird  section  of  the  act,  it  is  re(iuire(l  tliat  upon  the  filing  of  the  diagram,  as  provided  in  the  second 
section,  ond  posting  the  same  in  a  conspieuoiis  place  on  the  claim,  with  luitiee  of  intention  to  apply  for  a 
patent,  the  register  shall  publish  a  notice  of  the  same  in  a  newspaper  nearest  the  location  of  said  claini 
which  notice  shall  state  name  of  the  ehiimant,  name  of  mine,  names  of  adjoining  claimants  on  each  end  of 
the  claim,  the  district  and  countiy  iu  which  the  mine  is  situated,  informing  the  public  that  application  has 
been  made  tor  a  patent  for  same; "the  register  also  to  post  such  notice  in  Ids  office  for  ninety  days. 

Thereafter,  should  no  adversi^  claim  have  been  filed,  and  satisfactory  proof  should  be  produced  that  the 
diagram  and  notice  have  been  posted  in  the  manner  aud  for  the  period  stipidated  in  the  statute,  it  will 
bectmie  tJie  duty  of  the  surveyor  gener:d,  iinou  application  of  the  party,  to  survey  the  jiremises,  and  make 
plat  thereof,  indorsed  with  his  approval,  desiguatiug  the  nmuber  and  description  of  the  location,  .the 
value  of  the  labor  aud  improvements,  and  tlie  eliar.icter  of  the  vein  exposed.  As  preJiminary  to  the  survey, 
howevc)',  the  surveyor  general  must  estimate  the  expense  of  surveying,  platting,  aud  ascertain  from  tbo 
register  the  cost  of  the  publication  of  notice,  the  amount  of  all  of  wliich  must  be  deposited  by  thofipplicaiit  for 


WEST    OF   THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS,  657 

surrey  with  nny  nssistnnt  Unitoil  States  trpusurcr,  or  dosiiinnted  doiiositary  in  favor  of  tbo  United  States 
treasurer,  to  be  passed  to  the  credit  of  the  fund  created  Ijy  •'individual  dPiV)sitors  for  the  surveys  of  tho 
public  liuids."  Duplieato  eertilieates  of  such  deposits  must  be  tiled  with  tlic  surveyor  t;eneral  tor  trnns- 
Tuis»ion  to  this  otliee,  as  in  the  ease  of  deposits  for  surveys  of  public  lands  under  the  lUth  section  of  tho 
act  of  Congress  appi-oved  May  30,  IHtiO,  and  joint  resolution  of  July  1,  Iflll. 

After  the  survey  thus  paid  "for  shall  have  bce;i  duly  executed,  and  the  plat  thereof  approved  by  the  sur- 
veyor treneral,  desifjnatintr  the  number  and  the  deseription  of  the  location,  accompanied  by  his  official 
certificate  of  tho  viduo  of  tho  labor  and  improvements,  and  character  of  tho  vein  exposed,  with  the  testi- 
mony of  two  or  more  reliable  persons.  cojruiAint  of  the  facts  on  which  his  certiticato  may  be  founded,  as  to 
the  value  of  the  hilwr  and  improvements,  the  party  claiming  shidl  tile  tho  same  with  tlie  rcf;ister  and  receiver, 
and  thereupon  pay  to  tho  said  receiver  §5  per  aero  for  the  premises  embraced  in  the  survey,  and  shall  file 
with  those  ollicers  a  triplicate  certiticato  ot  dejxjsit,  showinj?  tho  payment  of  tho  cost  of  survey,  plat,  and 
notice,  with  satisfactory  evidence,  wliich  shall  be  the  testimony  of  at  least  two  credible  witnesses,  that  tho 
diajrrain  ami  notice  wero  iKjsted  on  the  claim  for  a  period  of  ninety  days,  as  re(iuircd  by  law,  and  as  con- 
templated in  the  foret^oiug.  Thereupon  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  repster  to  transmit  to  "the  General  Land 
Office  said  plat,  survev  and  description,  witli  the  proof  indorsed  as  satisfactory  by  the  register  and  receiver, 
so  that  a  patent  may  issue  if  the  pioeeedin.es  arc  found  regidai",  but  ueither  the  plat,  smwey  description,  nor 
patent  shall  issue  for  more  than  one  vein  or  lode. 

The  unity  of  tho  siuweying  .system  is  to  bo  maintained  by  extending  over  tho  mining  districts  the  roctan- 
g:ular  methiid,  at  least  so" far  as"  township  lines  are  concerned. 

The  contemplated  surveys  of  the  mineral  lands  will  bo  made  bv  tho  district  deputies,  under  contracts, 
according  to  the  mode  adopted  in  the  survey  of  tho  public  I.-inds  ant\  private  land  claims,  embracing  in  them 
all  such  veins  or  lodes  as  will  Ix'  called  for  ijy  claimants  entitled  to  have  tliem  surveyed. 

In  consideration  of  tho  very  limited  scope  of  sm'veying  involved  in  each  mining  claim,  the  per  mileage 
allowed  by  hiw  may  not  be  adequate  to  secure  tho  services  of  scientific  surveyors,  and  henco  the  necessity 
of  resorting  to  a  per  diem  principle,  it  being  tho  most  equitable  under  the  circumstances. 

The  surveyor  general  is  therefore  hereby  anthorizod  to  commission  resident  mineral  suiTeyors  for  differ- 
ent districts,  where  isolated  from  each  other,  and  absolutely  iuconveniont  for  one  surveyor  promptly  to 
attend  to  tho  several  calls  for  surveying  in  such  localities,  the  compensation  not  to  exceed  SliJ  per  diem, 
including  ail  expenses  incident  thereto.  Such  surveyors  shall  enter  into  bonds  of  610,000  for  tho  faithful 
performance  of  their  duties  in  tho  suiwcy  of  such  claims  as  tho  smweyor  genertd  may  bo  required  to  execute 
in  pm'suanee  of  tho  aforesaid  law  and  these  instructions. 

The  fourth  section  contemplates  the  location  and  entry  of  a  mine  upon  unsurvcyed  lands,  stipulating  for 
the  surveys  of  public  lands  to  be  adjusted  to  the  lines  of  the  claims,  according  to  the  location  and  possession 
and  plat  thereof.  In  surveying  snch  claims,  the  suiTcyor  general  is  authorized  to  vary  from  the  rectangidar 
form  to  suit  the  circumstances  of  tho  country,  local"  rules,  laws,  customs  of  miners.  The  extent  of  the 
locations  mado  from  and  after  the  passage  of  the  act  shaU.  however,  not  exceed  "200  feet  in  length  along  the 
rein  for  each  locator,  with  an  additional  claim  for  discovery  to  the  discoverer  of  the  lode,-  with  the  right  to 
follow  snch  vein  to  any  depth,  with  all  its  dips,  variations  and  angles,  together  wii4i  a  reasonable  quantity 
of  surface  for  tho  convenient  working  of  tho  same  as  fixed  l)y  local  rules :  Provided,  no  person  may  mak"o 
more  than  one  location  on  tho  same  lode,  and  no  more  than  3,000  feet  shall  be  taken  in  any  one  claim  by  any 
association  of  persons 

The  deputy  survey  era  should  be  scientific  men,  capable  of  examining  and  reporting  fully  on  every  lode 
thev  will  survey,  and  to  bring  in  duplicate  specimens  of  the  ore,  oik!  ot  which  j-on  will  send  to  this  office, 
amt  tho  other  the  sm-veyor  geucr:d  will  keep,  to  bo  ultimately  tm-ucd  over  with  the  surveying  archives  to 
the  State  authorities. 

Tiie  surveyors  of  mineral  claims,  whether  on  s^trveiied  or  uniturrcyed  lands,  must  designate  those  claims 
by  a  progressive  series  of  numbers,  lieginuing  with  Xo.  37,  so  as  to  avoid  interference  in  that  respect  with 
tho  reguiur  nectional  scries  of  numbers  in  each  township ;  and  shall  designate  tho  four  corners  of  each  claim, 
■where  tho  side  lines  of  the  same  are  known,  so  that  such  corners  can  be  given  by  either  trees,  if  nny  arc 
found  standing  in  place,  or  any  corner  rocks  exist  in  place,  or  posts  may  be  set  diagonally  and  deeply 
imbedded,  with  four  sides  facing  aitjoining  claims,  sufficiently  flattened  to  admit  of  inscriptions  thereon; 
but  where  tho  corners  aro  unknown,  it  wiU  be  sulficieut  to  place  a  well-built  solid  mound  at  each  end  of  tho 
claim.  Tho  beginning  corner  of  tlie  claim  nearest  to  any  corners  of  the  public  surveys  is  to  be  connected 
by  coui-se  and  lUstauce,  so  as  to  ascertain  the  relative  position  of  each  claim  in  reference  to  township  and 
range  when  tho  same  have  been  surveyed ;  but  in  those  parts  of  the  surveying  district  where  no  such  lines 
have  as  yet  boon  extended,  it  ^vill  bo  the  duty  of  surveyors  general  to  have  tho  same  surveyed  and  marked, 
at  least  so  far  as  standard  and  township  lines  aro  concerned,  at  the  per  mileage  allowed,  so  as  to  embrace 
tho  mineral  region,  and  to  connect  the  nearest  corners  of  the  mineral  claims  with  the  corners  of  the  public 
surveys. 

Should  it.  however,  be  found  impracticabli;  to  establish  independent  base  and  meridian  lines,  or  to  extend 
township  lines  over  tho  region  containing  mineral  claims  required  to  be  surveyed  under  tho  law.  then,  :tnd 
ill  that  ease,  you  will  cause  to  be  surveyed  in  the  first  instance  such  a  claim,  the  initial  point  of  which  will 
start  either  from  a  confluence  of  wat<'r.s",  or  such  natural  and  permanent  objects  as  will  unmistakably  identify 
the  point  of  the  beginning  of  tho  suney  of  the  claim  upon  which  otlier  surveys  will  depend. 

Section  5  provides  that  in  cases  where  the  laws  of  Congress  aro  silent  upon  "the  subject  of  niles  for  working 
mines,  respecting  ea-sements.  drainage,  and  other  necessary  means  to  the  complete  development  of  the  same, 
tho  local  legislatiu'o  of  any  State  or  Territory  may  provide  them,  and  in  order  to  embody  such  enactments 
into  patents  you  aro  directed  to  communicate  any'such  laws  to  this  office. 

Section  H.  "  Shotdd  adverse  claimants  to  any  mine  appear  before  the  approval  of  the  survey,  all  further 
proceedings  shall  be  stayed  until  a  final  settlement  and  adjudieation  are  had  in  the  courts  ofthe  right  of 
possession  to  such  claim",  except  wliero  tho  parties  agree  to  settlement,  or  a  portion  ofthe  premises  is  not  in 
aispute,  when  a  i)atent  may  issue  a.s  in  other  cases. 

Section  7  provides  for  such  additional  land  districts  as  may  bo  necessary. 

Section  8.  for  the  right  of  way. 

Section  0.  for  protection  of  rights  to  the  use  of  w.ater  for  mining,  agricultural,  manufacturing,  or  other 
pnriJoses;  for  tho  right  of  way  for  the  construction  of  ditches  and  canals ;  and  makes  parties  constructing 
such  work  (after  the  passage  of  this  act,)  to  the  injury  of  settlers,  liable  in  damages. 

Section  10.  Homesteads  iii.iy.  prior  to  the  pussiigo'of  this  act,  by  citizens  ofthe  United  States,  or  persons 
who  have  declared  their  intention  to  become  citizens,  but  on  whicli  lands  no  valuable  mines  of  gold,  silver, 
cinnabar,  or  copper  have  been  discovered,  are  protected,  so  that  settlers  or  owners  of  such  homesteads  shall 
have  a  right  of  pre-emption  thereto,  in  quantity  not  to  exceed  ICO  acres,  at  ^1  25  per  acre,  or  to  avail  them- 
selves of  the  homestead  act  and  acts  amendato"ry  thereof. 

Section  H  stipulates  that  upon  the  survey  of  the  lands  in  question  the  Secretary  of  tho  Interior  may  set 
apart  sncli  portions  as  are  cleiu-ly  agricultm-al,  and  thereafter  subjects  snch  ngrieidtural  tracts  to  pre-emption 
and  sale,  as  other  public  lands. 

In  order  to  enable  the  department  properly  to  give  cflFect  to  this  section  of  the  law,  you  will  cause  your 
deputy  surveyors  to  describe  in  their  field  notes  of  surveys,  in  addition  to  the  data  reuuired  to  be  noted  in 

42 


658 


EESOURCfiS    OF    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES 


the  printctl  Manual  of  Sni-vcyiug  Instrnctions,  on  paprcs  17  and  18,  the  agricultural  lands,  and  represent  the 
same  on  township  plats  by  the  designation  of  "agricultural  lands." 

It  is  to  l)e  understo%d  that  there  is  nothing  obligatoiy  on  claimants  to  proceed  under  this  statute,  and  that 
■where  they  fiiil  to  do  so,  there  being  no  adverse  interest,  they  hold  the  same  relations  to  the  premises  they 
may  be  working  which  they  did  before  the  passage  of  this  act,  with  the  additional  guarantee  that  they 
possess  the  right  of  occupancy  under  the  statute. 

The  foregoing  presents  aueh  views  as  have  occurred  to  this  office  in  considering  the  prominent  points  of 
the  statute,  and  will  be  followed  by  further  instructions  as  the  rulings  in  actual  cases  and  experience  in  the 
admiuistration  of  the  statute  may" from  time  to  time  suggest. 

Very  respectfully,  yom*  obedient  servant,  

JOS.  S.  "WTLS0:N",  Coimnisiioner. 

U.  S.  Registeus  axd  Eecer'ers  axd  Surveyors  General. 


SUPPLEMENTARY  INSTRUCTIONS. 

Department  of  the  Interior,  General  L.vnd  Office,  June  S-'i,  1867. 

Gentlemen  :  In  the  preparation  of  foi-ms  adapted  to  the  purchase  of  mineral  interests  under  the  act  of  July 
26,  IStiO,  it  is  found  necessaiy,  iu  connection  ^ith  cii'cular  of  January  14, 18t)7,  to  direct  your  attention  to  the 
following : 

1st.  Where  the  rules  of  miners  do  not  permit  ground  to  be  occupied,  except  the  surface  of  the  vein  or 
lode,  the  claims  presented  may  contain  less  than  an  acre  of  ground.  Iu  such  cases,  as  we  do  not,  in  regard 
to  rates,  deal  with  a  fraction,  the  price  of  §5  is  to  be  paid  for  the  same;  if  the  area  exceeds  that  iiuantity, 
$10;  if  more  than  two  acres.  §1.5,  and  so  on. 

2d.  In  applications  for  mineral  claims  it  ^vill  be  necessary,  where  a  claim  contains  less  than  one  aero,  th.',i 
the  agreement  expressed  should  be  to  pay  §.5  for  the  claim. 

3d.  Should  a  party  a^jpear  as  an  "adverse  claimant,"  as  contemplated  by  the  6th  section  of  the  act,  you 
will  reijuiro  such  person  to  show  by  proof  the  claim  or  interest  he  may  have" in  the  mine ;  and  should  the  same 
be  satisfactory  to  you,  all  further  proceedings  will  be  stayed  until  a  final  settlement  and  adjudication  sh:ill  be 
had  iu  the  courts.  But  iu  case  the  adverse  claimant,  after  proceedings  have  been  stayed,  shall  fail  to  insti- 
tute action  in  the  courts,  either  pending  or  at  their  next  ensuing  session,  with  a  view  to  the  final  adjustment 
of  the  claims,  you  wiil  proceed  witli  tlie  case  as  if  no  objections  had  been  filed. 

4th.  You  ^viil  enter  all  claims  under  the  act  in  separate  fract -books  from  those  used  for  agricultiu'al  lands, 
dividing  the  books  into  townships  and  ranges,  allowing  aljout  eight  pajjcs  to  each  township. 

For  the  present  you  will  use  the  blank  form  of  Aljstraets  of  Land  Sold  and  Eegister  of  lleceipts  in  report- 
ing returns,  making  such  slight  alterations  in  the  headincs  as  the  cases  may  demand.  Should  it  be  found 
advisable  iu  the  futui'c  to  have  special  abstracts,  forms  will  do  prepared  and  printed  and  a  supply  duly  tnms- 
mitted  to  you. 

You  will  commence  a  new  series  of  numbers  with  the  certificates — beginning  with  No.  1 — and  continue 
the  same  in  rcgulnr  order.  As  no  special  fee  is  provided  for  in  the  statute,  youVul  be  allowed  one  percent, 
each  on  amount  of  purchase-money,  as  in  cash  sales.  The  moneys  received  for  these  claims  will  be  accomited 
for  in  the  receiver's  returns  as  cash  received  for  sale  of  mineral  claims. 

Forms  of  applicatioue,  certificates,  and  receipts  ai'c  being  printed,  and  a  supply  will  be  sent  as  soon  as 
possible. 

I  also  append  an  abstract  of  duties  prescribed  in  instructions  of  14th  January,  1867. 
Very  respectfully, 

JOS.  S.  "VYILSOX,  Commissioner. 

Eegister  and  KECEmjR. 


Abstract  op  Duties. — The  following  is  an  abstract  of  the  duties  prescribed  in  mineral 
instructions  of  January  14,  I8t)7: 

Claimant. — ^To  post  a  notice  on  the  claim  giving  information  of  his  intention  to  apply  for  a  patent :  to  file 
a  diagram  with  the  register,  together  with  the  evidence  of  tlie  rules  of  rainci-s  iu  support  of  the  claim  anil 
its  extent.  After  tlic  diaj;iani  and  notice  have  lieen  iiostcd  !Ki  days,  and  no  adverse  claim  lUcd,  the  claimant 
to  apply  to  surveyor  geueial  for  survey  of  the  claim,  deposit  tlie  amount  estimated  by  the  siu'veyor  general 
to  cover  the  expenses  of  the  survey"  platting,  and  notice  with  atiy  assistant  United  States  treasurer  or 
designated  depository  in  favor  of  the"  United  States  Treasurer,  to  be  "passed  to  the  credit  of  the  fimd  created 
by  "  Individu;d  Depositors  for  the  SiU'veys  of  the  Public  Lands."'  taking  duplicate  certificate  of  deposit — 
filing  one  with  surveyor  general,  to  be  sent  to  the  General  Land  Otliee,  and  retaining  the  other;  and  when 
the  survev  is  approved  aiul  diagram  thereof,  toirether  with  the  siu'veyor  general's  certificate  as  to  improve- 
ments and  elinnietcr  of  the  vein  exposed,  tlie  etairaant  to  pay  to  the  receiver  the  price  of  the  claim. 
■  Keimsikk  ani>  Keceiveu. — To  examine  testimony  tiled  ny  elainuint  showing  the  applicability  of  miners' 
rules  in  reference  to  the  extent  of  the  claim,  which  "testimony  is  to  be  reduced  to  writing  and  tiled  with  the 
chlimaut's  application  in  the  register's  ollice;  also  to  examine  the  retmns  of  survey  approved  by  tho 
surveyor  general  and  tiled  by  the  claimant. 

Receivei!. — To  receive  from  tlie  claimant  the  price  of  the  claim  on  his  filing  with  the  register  and  receiver 
the  ajTiiroved  plat  aiul  eertitie:ite  of  the  survcycu-  general  as  to  the  value  of  the  improvements  and  character 
of  vein  cxpuseil,  based  on  testimony  by  two  relial)le  witnesses. 

KEiiisncii's  diagram  of  tin'  claiin"biing  tilrd  by  the  claimant,  the  register  shall  publish  a  notice  iu  a  news- 
paper nean'st  to  the  claim,  naming  tlie  mine,  chiimant,  adjoining  claimants,  district,  and  county,  iufonning 
the  public  that  ;ipplicatioii  has  brrn  made  for  a  patent.  Tlu!  register  will  post  the  notice  iu  his  office  for  90  •, 
days,  and  on  the  publisher's  presenting  his  account  to  the  register  immediately  on  the  expiration  of  the  90  'I 
days,  ho  will  transmit  it  to  tlie  surveyor  general;  and  on  the  receipt  from  the  claimants  of  the  surveyor 
general's  certiUeate  of  the  iuiproveiiuiits  on  tlic  claim,  togetlier  with  plat  and  other  evidences  of  the  sm-vey 
approved,  also  tlie  receiver's  receipt  for  the  p:iym('nt  for'the  claim,  the  register  will  transmit  same,  with 
proof,  indorsed  by  register  and  receiver  as  satisfactory,  to  the  Commissioner  of  the  General  Laud  Office 
Jbr  pateut. 

SUKVEVOR  General's  duty  when  no  adverse  claim  is  filed,  proof  furnished  that  the  diagram  and  notice 
hud  been  posted  for  90  days,  "and  on  receiving,  also,  from  the  register  the  account  of  the  publisher  of  tho 
notice:  The  surveyor  gcueral,  when  applied  to  by  the  claimant  for  the  sui-vey  of  his  claim,  shall  estimate 
the  expense  of  the  survev,  platting,  and  notice,  "and  when  a  certLfieate  of  deposit  is  filed  with  him  by  tho 
clitiinimt,  he  shall  order  the  survey" to  be  made,  aud  transmit  the  certificate  of  deposit  to  the  General  Land 


WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  659 

Oftlco.  "Wlien  the  returns  of  survey  are  miule  to  the  surveyor  proneral's  oflice  Iio  will  approve  the  same, 
haiiil  the  necessary  evidence  thereof  to  tlie  claimant,  to  l)e  lilcd  by  him  in  tlie  register  and  receiver's  ollico 
for  examination  aiul  tinal  pn>paration  of  patent-ccrtiticate  by  the  register  foi-  transmission  to  Jlio  Comniis- 
dioner  of  the  (Jcnenil  Land  Office.  The  surveycn-  freneral  \vill  also  transmit  returns  of  the  survey  to  the 
Commissioner,  with  the  account  of  the  surveyor  and  that  of  the  publishere  of  the  notice,  for  direct  |iayincnt 
from  I'nitcd  States  trea.siu'y  to  parties  entitled,  as  in  tlie  case  of  payments  made  out  of  tlio  funds  dcjiosited 
under  the  10th  section  of  the  net  of  Con^rcs.s  approved  May  HO,  18i)J,  and  joint  resolution  of  June  1,  18()4. 

Lecisi.ation  in  kf.gard  to  tut.  MfXKRAL  Intekk.sts. — The  Coniinis.sioner  of  the  Gen- 
eral Laml  Office,  in  his  annual  report  for  18i)0,  f^ive.s  the  following  condensed  summary  of 
the  legislation  by  Congress  in  regard  to  the  mineral  interests : 

The  mineral  interests  in  the  public  lands  have  been  the  subject  of  letiislntion  during  a  period  of  81  years. 
The  onlinaucc  of  'MtU  of  Mav,  IT^."),  reserved  one-tliird  part  of  all  pold.  silver,  lead,  and  copper  mines  ;  the 
act  of  '.kl  of  March,  18ii7,  dealt  with  lead  mines;  the  enactment  of  'M  of  M;ireh,  IHJ'.i,  autliori/ed  liieir  sale 
in  Missouri:  the  pre-emption  act  of  4th  of  September,  1841,  excluded  from  its  provisions  known  salines  or 
mines;  the  act  of  July  1,  18()4,  recpiires  coal  lands  which,  as  mines,  arc  cxcluued  from  the  pre-empliou  of 
1841.  to  be  otTei-ed  at  $-J()  minimum,  making  them  pre-emptible  at  that  rate. 

In  the  case  of  the  United  States  vs.  Gear,  ;}  Howard,  184.'),  it  wa.s  held  that  it  was  not  intended  to  subject 
lead  mines  to  ordinary  sale  or  pre-emption  in  certain  districts  created  l>y  act  of  '2C,th  of  June,  }8'M. 

In  Attorney  ("rencriirs  opinion,  dated  April  18,  184(i,  rcs-peetin<r  mineral  lands  on  Isle  Koyal,  in  Lake  Supe- 
»ior,  it  was  stated  that  "salines,  gold,  silver,  lead,  and  copper  mines  '  were  reserved  for  "future  disposal  of 
Consrress." 

The  act  of  JiUy  11,  184(i,  required  the  lead  mines  in  Illinois,  Arkansas,  Missouri,  and  Iowa  to  be  offered, 
interflictinir  pre-emption  until  after  otFeriufr,  and  then  at  a  minimum  of  S;2  50  per  acre,  but  if  not  taken  at 
private  entry  within  a  year  of  tlie  public  sale,  to  be  subject  to  s.aJc  as  other  lancfs. 

The  act  of  1st  of  March,  1847,  in  creating  the  LiUic  Superior  district  and  directing  geological  survey, 
authorizes  the  s;Uo  of  lands  containing  "copper,  lead,  or  other  valuable  ores,"  witli  ^o  per  acre  minimum. 

The  act  of  3d  of  March,  1847,  for  organizing  the  Chippewa  district,  'Wiseonsin,  and  also  authorizing 
geological  survey,  awards  tlie  privilege  of  jiurchaso,  at  SO  per  acre,  to  occupants  at  tlie  date  of  the  law,  the 
suiieivision  of  niines,  by  act  of  3d  of  March,  1849,  having  neen  transferred  to  Tlie  Secretary  of  the  Interior. 

lu  opinion  of  28111  of  August,  18.")0,  the  Attorney  General  held  that  hinds  containing  "iron  ore  merely" 
ai'c  not  the  "  mineral  laiu'.s  "  referred  to  in  the  'id  section  of  said  act  of  1st  of  March,  1847. 

Uy  the  law  of  iiHh  of  S<'pteiulxu',  1850,  miuej-al  tracts  in  Lake  Superior  and  Chippewa  districts  were  to  bo 
disposed  of  as  other  public  lanils. 

The  act  of  Septemiier  i!7,  18.50,  creating  the  office  of  surveyor  general  of  Oregon  and  making  donations, 
excludes  "mineral  lands''  or  reserved  salines.  By  the  treaty  of  18.'51  with  Peru,  Peruvians  are  allowed  to 
■work  for  gold  in  California ;  the  thinl  section  of  act  March  3,  1853,  for  the  surveys  in  that  State  allowing 
only  "township  "  lines  to  be  extended  over  lands  mineral  or  unfit  for  cultivation ;  the  sixth  section  excepting 
mineral  tracts  from  pre-emption, 

^Thc  act  of  Jidy  ^Q,  1854,  establishing  the  offices  of  surveyors  general  of  New  ^Mexico,  Kansas,  and 
Nebraska,  excludes  from  the  privileges  it  concedes  to  individuals  "mineral  or  school  lauds,  salines,  military 
or  other  reservations." 

The  Attorney  Generars  opinion  of  Felwuary  14,  18G0,  states  that  Congress  had  not  then  made  any  pro- 
Tision  concerning  mineral  lands  in  California,  except  reserving  from  iirc-emption  and  donation. 

The  act  of  July  1,  18t)4,  for  the  disposal  of  coal  land  and  town  property,  allows  coal  lands  not  liable  under 
past  legislation  to  ordinary  private  entry  to  be  taken  or  pre-empted  at  8J0  minimum  per  acre. 

The  act  of  July  4,  18(it),  giving  authority  for  varying  surveys  in  Xe\  ad;i  from  "rectangular  form  to  suit 
the  circum.st:uices  of  the  country,"  reserves  from  side,  "iu  all  cases,  lands  valuable  for  mines  of  gold,  silver, 
quicksilver,  or  copper." 

The  hist  and  most  important  expression  of  the  public  will  in  these  respects  is  found  in  the  act  of  Congress 
approved  July  2t>.  18ijti,  chapter  CCLXII,  which  declares  that  "  the  mineral  lands  of  the  public  domain,  both 
sui-veyed  ami  unsurveyed,  "  arc  "to  be  free  and  open  to  exploration  and  occupation  by  all  citizens  of  the 
United  States,  and  those  dechiring  their  intention  to  become  citizens,  subject  to  such  regulations  as  may  bo 
prescribed  by  law,"  and  ' '  subject,  also,  to  the  local  customs  or  rules  of  miners  iu  the  several  mining  districts, 
60  far  aa  the  same  may  not  be  in  conflict  with  the  laws  of  the  United  States." 


IMPORTANCE  OF  A  NATIONAL  SCHOOL  OF  MINES. 

At  no  period  in  our  historj'  has  there  existed  a  greater  necessity  for  an  increase  in  the  pro- 
duction of  bullion  than  at  present.  The  ablest  intellects  of  the  country  have  been  for  some 
time  past  directed  to  the  subject  of  our  financial  condition.  Already  numerous  .schemes  have 
been  presented  to  Congress  for  the  maintenance  of  our  credit  at  home  and  abroad,  and  vari- 
ous projects  having  in  view  a  reduction  of  the  burden  of  taxation  will  doubtless  be  discussed 
,  during  the  present  session.'  Considering  the  great  importance  of  the  mining  interest  iu  this 
connection,  it  seems  singular  that  the  annual  decrease  in  our  product  of  bullion  for  the  last 
few  years  has  attracted  so  little  attention.  According  to  a  statement  in  the  President's  mes- 
sage, "  the  production  of  precious  metals  in  the  United  States  from  18-19  to  18.')7,  inclusive, 
amount  to  §57y,000,0(iO;  from  \?*:y!i  to  186(1,  inclusive,  to  ,fii:57,50(l,UUO ;  and  from  J8G1 
to  18tJ7,  inclusive,  to  $4r)7,r)^U,00<) — making  the  grand  aggregate  of  products  since  J 849, 
$l,174,(iU0,0tH)."  This  estimate  certainly  dues  not  excetnl  the  amount  actually  produced.* 
Hut  the  returns  of  the  principal  mining  States  and  Territories  will  show  that  for  several  jx'ars 
past  there  has  been  a  gradual  decline. 

Thus  California  produced  iu  1853  as  high  as  $57,330,030,  as  shown  by  the  manifest  of 
bullion  export  from  San  Francisco.  The  actual  production  for  that  year  probably  exceeded 
$6U,(10U.(l(Xt.  In  16G5  the  yield  was  $".5U,98ti,5:)U;  in  18(J(i,  §-2G,.^)UU,UUU  ;  and  in  18(i7,  as  esti- 
mated, $25,000,000.  Nevada,  a  silver-producing  State,  has  increased  somewhat  during  the 
past  three  years,  but  all  the  other  mining  States  and  Territories  have  fallen  off.     The  best 

*  The  special  commissioner,  in  his  letter  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  (p.  6,)  estimates  the  totiU  product 
at  $1,255,000,000. 


660  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

authorities  estimate  the  yield  of  Montana  as  follows:  18G2,  $500,000;  1863,  $8,000,000 ;  1864, 
ljii:!,000,000;  1865,  $14,500,000;  1866,  $16,500,000;  1867,  12,000,000.  The  maximum  esti- 
mate for  Oolorado  in  1863  was  $9,000,000;  in  1864,  $6,000,000;  in  1865,  $4,500,000;  in 
1666,  less  than  $3,000,000 ;  and  the  probable  yield  for  1867  will  not  exceed  $2,500,000.  The 
product  of  Idaho  for  1866  is  estimated  by  good  authorities  at  $8,000,000.  This  year  (1867) 
it  scarcely  exceeds  $6,000,000.  Arizona  now  produces  comparatively  nothing.  Notwith- 
standing these  discouraging  facts,  so  far  from  any  diminution  in  the  source  of  supply,  recent 
explorations  have  developed  the  fact  that  our  great  mineral  belts  extend  over  a  much  larger 
area  than  was  ever  before  supposed.  The  supply,  in  short,  is  inexhaustible.  As  yet  it  has 
scarcely  been  tapped.  Why,  then,  should  our  annual  product  be  on  the  decline?  Because, 
in  the  first  place  the  surface  diggings  very  soon  yield  their  maximum,  and  can  never  be 
relied  upon  as  a  permanent  source  of  supply ;  and  in  the  next,  vein  or  quartz  mining  is  of  slow 
development,  and  requires  capital  and  skill. 

Assuming  our  total  yield  for  1867  to  be,  in  round  numbers,  $75,000,000,  and  the  average 
loss  arising  from  imperfect  systems  of  reduction  to  be  25  per  cent.,  we  have  a  total  loss  on 
gold  and  silver  combined  of  $t>5,000,000.  By  the  judicious  application  of  science  to  the  busi- 
ness of  mining,  and  especiallj'  to  the  treatment  of  the  ores,  at  least  $15,000,000  of  this  amount 
might  be  saved.  But  this  statement  of  loss  is  confined  to  ores  actually  taken  out  of  the 
ground  and  worked.  No  account  is  taken  of  the  vast  quantity  of  ore  cast  aside  as  too  poor 
to  justify  the  expense  of  working  under  the  present  costly  methods,  or  of  the  innumerable 
mineral  lodes  now  practically  valueless,  which,  in  any  country  possessing  first-class  mining 
schools,  would  be  inexhaustible  sources  of  wealth.  Nor  does  the  estimate  embrace  the 
immense  losses  to  which  miners  are  subject  from  the  erection  of  unsuitable  machinery  and 
from  ignorance  of  the  chemical  composition  of  the  ores  and  the  process  of  reduction  applica- 
ble to  each  class.  The  same  ores  are  worked  by  different  systems  in  mills  located  within  a 
stone's  throw  of  each  other,  and  yet  no  record  is  kept  of  the  depth  from  which  they  are  taken, 
what  the  yield  is  by  one  system  as  compared  with  another,  or  under  what  combination  of 
circumstances  the  best  results  are  obtained.  On  the  Comstock  lode  500  tons  of  ore,  it  is  said, 
are  worked  daily  with  the  aid  of  blue  vitriol  and  salt,  at  an  expense  for  these  two  articles 
alone  of  $118,800  per  annum.  Some  mills  use  double  as  much  on  the  same  kind  and  quantity 
of  ores  as  others.  Who  can  tell  the  result?  Both  cannot  be  right,  and  yet  the  mine  and 
mill  owners  have  a  direct  pecuniary  interest  in  knowing  why  and  to  what  end  these  things 
are  done. 

With  all  tho  experience  gained  in  the  treatment  of  silver  ores  since  the  discovery  of  the 
Comstock  lode,  there  are  still  many  important  questions  to  be  solved.  This  can  only  be  done 
by  experiments  systematically  conducted,  and  by  repeated  and  careful  comparisons  of  prac- 
tical results.  Among  the  subjects  for  investigation,  and  the  questions  which  either  cannot 
be  or  have  not  been  deteimined  by  private  enterprise,  are  the  following,  submitted  by  the 
distinguished  metallurgist,  Mr.  Guide  Kiistel : 

1.  "Whether  tho  use  of  blue  vitriol  in  u-on  pans,  for  the  purpose  of  decomposing  silver  ores,  is  necessaiy ; 
and,  if  so,  in  what  proportion,  and  with  reference  to  what  sirvcr  combinations  ?  Gould  &  Cui'ry  mill  aloiie 
spent  #17,588  for  bhie  ritriol,  in  18(!(i,  on  3(),000  tons  of  ore.  Tho  same  mine  expended  S3.'),000  for  ([uieksilver. 
A  gre.it  part  of  the  loss  in  qnieksil\er  is  duo  to  the  use  of  blue  vitriol.  The  question  is,  whether  this  loss 
was  justified  by  the  gain  in  sUvcr,  and  to  what  extent  that  gain  resulted  from  the  chemicid  action  of  tho 
vitriol  on  snlpliurets  ?  There  are  no  figiu'OS  to  solve  this  problem.  Taking  tho  low  estimate  of  .500  tons  of 
("omstoek  ore  worked  daily  with  the  use  of  blue  vitriol  and  salt,  and  comparing  the  consumption  of  these 
chemicals  in  the  (JoiUd  &.  Cuiry  mills  -with  the  total  consumption  upon  that  basis,  for  a  yeiu''s  manipulation 
of  3(X)  days,  it  would  be  equal  to  l.'JO.OOO  tons,  worked  at  an  exponso  of  over  $118,800  for"  tho  vitriol  awd  stdt 
alone.  Now,  it  is  more  than  jn'obable  that  a  earef\d  investigation  of  tho  subject  woidd  result  in  the  saving 
of  two-thirds  of  this  expense.  Some  mills  use  twice  as  miieh  vitriol  and  salt  as  others  on  the  same  kind  of 
ore,  tak(Mi  from  the  same  depths  and  sometimes  from  the  same  niiucs.  Botli  cannot  be  right.  Tho  product 
alone  does  not  di'ti'rmine  the  iiueslioii.  Expense  must  bo  eonsidered  ;  but  at  present  there  is  no  compiu'ison 
of  results,  nor  is  tliei'e  any  way  of  arriving  ut  tho  facts  from  tlu^  books  of  thi;  mills. 

2.  Wliether  tlu'  addition  of  salt  for  the  same  purpose  is  required?  Gould  &  Curry  expended  for  this  article 
alone,  in  IHiiii,  «!l(),it-i:!.  Coilti'adietory  views  are  entertained  ou  this  subject,  but  there  is  uo  exact  data  upon 
which  to  determine  the  (piestion  satisfactorily. 

:!.  Whether  the  iron  pim  decomposes  silver  ores  for  itself,  without  quicksilver;  and,  if  it  does,  what  kind 
of  silver  ores? 

4.  Whieh  lu-oeess  of  amalgamation  for  silver  ore  is.  for  the  length  of  time  and  expense,  most  economical — 
bniTcl  or  pan  amalgamation  ?  and  what  is  the  loss  of  quicksilver  in  both  cases,  and  tho  comparative  loss  in 
each '( 

5.  To  determine  which  of  the  various  methods  of  extracting  gold  from  its  ores  now  or  heretofore  prac- 
ticed in  tho  United  States  is  the  best,  and  whether  better  methods  exist  iu  Em-opo,  South  America,  Mexico, 
or  elsewhere. 

().  What  method  of  concentration  is  most  proper  and  economical  witli»referenco  to  different  ores ;  what 
machines  are  best;  what  is  the  eomparative  etlicieucy  of  ditlereut  machines  and  inventions?  What  is  tho 
motive  power  required,  and  the  wood  and  water  consumption  of  each?  In  Austria,  under  authority  and 
at  the  expense  of  the  government,  spixnal  attention  is  given  to  the  solution  of  all  sueh  questions  as  these; 
also,  to  some  extent,  in  Saxony.  The  best  and  only  work  on  concentration  was  published  in  Vienna ;  another 
is  in  course  (if  preparation  at  "[•'reiberg.  Ko  independent  work  of  this  kind,  devoted  specially  to  this  sub- 
ject, exists  in  the  English  language.* 

The  ?Iale  &  Norcross  mine,  one  of  the  best  managed  on  the  Comstock  lode,  had  a  lot  of 
15,639  tons  of  ore  worked  at  J4  different  mills  during  a  portion  of  the  past  and  present  year, 
the  assay  value  of  which,  according  to  their  books,  was  $465,190  in  gold;  $822,942,  silver; 

*Mr.  Kiistel  has  since  published  at  San  Francisco  a  very  able  and  elaborate  work  on  Concentratiou. 


f 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  6G1 

total,  81.2S8,i:V2;  amount  produced,  $:l07,ir)7,  pold ;  Sn<),S10,  silver;  total,  omitting  frac- 
tious, S"*!*!,'.'""';  l<»ss,  §471.105.  [See  section  XVII,  table  No.  2,  p.  :i7(;.]  This  is  a  lavor- 
able  example  of  the  work  done  on  the  Comstock  lode.  Not  more  than  (>.")  per  cent,  is  saved 
on  an  average  of  all  the  ores  worked.  The  returns  indicate  a  yield  this  year  of  at  least 
$I7,U(.I0,UU0.  A  loss  of  85  per  cent,  would  be  iiiil),:35:!,84G.  This  is  remarkable  on  a  sinf^le 
lode.  No  nation  on  earth  can  furnish  such  an  example  of  extravagance.  The  percentage 
of  loss  on  poltl  throughout  tiie  I'acitic  States  and  Territories  is  not  so  great  as  on  silver,  but 
it  is  quite  snflieient  to  merit  the  most  serious  consideration. 

The  experts  engaged  in  our  mines  are  nearly  all  foreigners  ;  we  send  our  young  men  to  the 
schools  ot  Freilierg,  Herlin,  Paris,  Scbemnitz,  and  elsewhere  in  Europe,  to  learn  that  which 
they  could  much  better  learn  at  home,  if  we  had  institutions  equally  tiiorough  and  compro 
heusive.  And  why  should  we  not  have  such  institutions  ?  Our  mineral  resources  are  of  far 
greater  magnitude  and  value  than  those  of  any  other  country.  Are  we,  a  progressive  people 
in  all  other  respects,  to  lack  in  this  ?  Whilst  we  arc  losing  35  per  cent,  of  the  product  of  our 
richest  mineral  lode  by  inefficient  systems  of  working,  the  entire  loss  in  amalgamation,  accord- 
ing to  Inspector  Winlder,  in  the  treatment  of  the  Freiberg  ores — which  are  far  poorer  and 
more  rebellious  than  those  of  the  Comstock — ranges  from  five  to  nine  per  cent.  Allowing 
for  the  diti'erence  in  the  cost  of  labor  and  material,  and  for  the  higher  rates  of  interest  on 
capital  in  our  country,  this  shows  a  remarkable  contrast  between  the  results  of  misdirected 
energy  and  the  judicious  application  of  science  to  the  practical  details  of  mining  and  metal- 
lurgy. 

Mr.  Kossiter  W.  Raymond,*  editor  of  the  American  Journal  of  Mining,  says: 

Statesmen  rccocrnizo  the  fact  that  man)-  tilings  mast  be  clone  by  the  government  Tvhicli  ^\-oul(l  otherwise  not 
be  done  at  all ;  that  the  interests  of  edueation'industry,  and  commerce  in  every  part  of  a  nation  are  of  vital 
importance  to  the  whole  people,  and  that  a  wise  discretion  in  sueh  matters  is  better  than  blind  adherence  to  any 
political  rule.  Of  course,  it  is  difiicult  to  draw  the  line  between  judieious  and  injudieious  legislation  in  these 
directions.  It  is  always  easier  to  be  consistent  than  to  be  wise.  Tliere  is  no  f,'eneral  standard  which  can  be 
applied :  every  ease  must  lie  judged  upon  its  own  merits,  and  full  and  thorough  discussion  must  give  the  answer 
to  two  all-important  iiuestious :  tirst,  is  the  projwsed  end  one  which  concerns  the  wliole  nation,  or  only  a  part 
of  it  ?  aud  second,  can  the  benefit  desu'ed  be  obtained  as  well,  or  at  all,  by  local  legislation  or  individual  enter- 
prise? 

Mining  and  ngriculture  are  the  two  productive  industries  upon  which  the  wealth  of  the  world  is  based. 
Strictly  speaking  a^'ieultare  is  the  most  important,  since  without  it  men  could  not  exist ;  yet  mining  is  almost 
as  essentia),  since  \\  ithout  it  there  C(mld  be  no  civilization,  and  men  would  only  exist  as  savages.  Tliere  is 
this  difTerenco  between  the  two,  that  the  products  of  mining  are,  in  general,  far  more  imperisliablo,  and,  in 
proporticm  to  their  first  cost,  of  greater,  because  of  more  i)roIonged,  use  to  mankind.  After  centuries  of  till- 
ing tlie  soil,  men  have  no  more  to  cat  than  at  lirst,  and  bad  crops  bring  famine  and  distress.  The  benefits 
of  mining,  on  the  other  hand,  are  cumulative  and  perpetual.  AVho  can  estimate  the  blessings  diffused  by  a 
ton  of  iron,  mined,  smelted,  cast  or  wiouglit  into  forms  of  beauty  and  usefulness,  serving  for  generations 
the  needs  of  men,  and  repeatedly  rcforged,  and  reappearing,  as  liy  a  material  metempsychosis  to  enter  upon 
new  periods  of  beneficence?  iforc  ditlicult  still  is  it  to  measure  "the  importance  of  gold  and  silver,  the  pro- 
duction of  which,  aside  from  their  iutriiisie  value  and  their  application  in  the  arts,  is  so  suiitly  couneeteit 
■with  the  profouudest  problems  of  commerce  and  political  economy.  I'hilosopliers  tell  us  th.at  if'we  produce 
and  manufacture  largely,  it  is  no  matter  whether  we  have  plenty  of  money  or  not ;  money  is  nothing  but  a 
medium  of  exchange,  and,  when  it  is  scarce,  prices  will  be  nominally  low,  while  an  increase  of  money 
iiomin.allv  raises  them,  without  altering  the  real  relations  of  labor  and  wealth.  But  hi.story  and  daily  expe- 
rience tell  a  ditfereut  story.  They  show  us  that  the  weald's  accepted  medium  of  exchange  must  bear  a  cer- 
tain relation  to  the  world's  amount  of  business  ;  and  that,  in  spite  of  all  contrivances  of  credit,  barter,  and 
paper  money,  the  supply  of  the  precious  metals  is  of  vital  importance  to  all  commercial  nations.  This  con- 
viction is  the  souree  oftlie  nniversa!  principle  of  law  that  the  mineral  resources  of  a  country,  especially  its 
mines  of  gold  and  silver,  are  the  property  of  the  whole  country — represented  in  some  states  by  the  crown, 
and  in  othei-s  by  the  general  government.  AVe  have  no  fault  to"  find  with  the  Amei-iean  doctrine"  on  that  sub- 
ject, which  throws  open  to  individual  enterprise  these  sources  of  national  ^^•ealth,  but  it  is  a  question  whether 
individuals  should  be  allowed  to  ruin,  by  ignorant  and  wasteful  'niaiiageinent,  tlie  endowment  which  nature 
has  established  for  succeeding  ages  as  well  as  the  present,  audof  whieli,  in  a  certain  sense,  we  are  the  trustees 
for  posterity.  It  is  by  no  means  indifferent  to  us  all,  whether  the  mines  of  the  AVost  are  skilfully  and  eco- 
nomically worked  or  iiot,  whether  iii.OUO.OOO  of  silver  a  year  ui'e  lost,  never  to  be  recovered,  by  the  methods 
of  treating  the  ores  of  the  Comstock  lode,  whether  livcclollars  arc  wasted  for  cverv  dollar  extracted  from 
the  suli)liurets  of  Coloriulo.  Tliesc  losses  are  so  much  robbery  of  our  children  ;  nncf  it  is  eminently  ^vithin 
the  nrovinee  of  the  government  to  ju'cservc  the  mineral  rescmrees  of  the  country,  just  as  it  will  be" impera- 
tively called  upon,  before  many  years  have  passed,  to  ju'event  the  destruction  of  its  limber.  Statistics  show 
that," for  several  years,  our  p.roauciion  of  gold  and  silver  has  been  declining.  There  is  no  great  cause  for 
alann  in  this  fact  alone.  The  years  of  gi-catest  production  were  those  in  which  superficial  deposits  were 
worked  by  nidc  methods,  and  since  that  time  tli(!  business  of  mining  has  grown  more  difiicult  aiul  expen- 
sive, while  the  number  of  miners  has  grown  smaller.  It  is  not  the  dimiuisr.ed  production,  but  the  increased 
waste,  which  is  alarming.  All  the  indications  arc  that  individual  mine  owners  will  not.  or  cannot,  reform 
this  evil.  They  lack  the  necessary  knowledge,  and  the  means  of  obtaining  it.  In  vain  our  young  men  I'l-owd 
the  excellent  schools  of  Paris,  Freiberg,  and  IJeiiin.  They  need  years  of  instruction  here  to  make  their 
European  education  available;  for  tho.se  blanches  of  metallurgy  which  arc  most  widely  practiced  in  this 
country  are  the  ones  most  se.antilv  known  and  taught  in  Euroi)e." 

Information  is  the  least  debt  which  the  government  owes  to  its  citizens  engaged  in  this  work.  And  there 
■  is  a  special  reason  why  this  infonnatioii  sliould  be  nationally  given.  The  diflieulties  and  interests  of  mines 
lu-e  universal.  The  man  who  is  crushing  iiuartz  in  Vennont  and  the  man  who  is  crushing  ciuart/  in  Call- 
Ifonii.i  would  gladly  have  a  common  centre  for  the  exch.'ingo  of  their  experiences  and  the  instruction  of  their 
ignorance.  The  farmers  of  the  land  need  such  an  institution  much  less,  yet  they  have  it  in  the  Agricultural 
Bureau.  To  a  Bureau  of  Jlining,  under  coini)etent  direction,  there  is  no  re.iso"nable  objection,  except  one. 
An  efficient  Bureau  of  ilining  is  an  impossibility.  In  the  first  place,  its  loo.-itiou  at  Washington  would 
defeat  its  objeot;  and  its  location  away  from  Washington  would  deprive  it  of  the  distinctive  character  aud 
dependence  of  a  biu-eau,  and  leave  it  without  any  individuality  or  vigor  iit  all.    In  the  second  phice,  a 

*Ileeently  appointed  speciiil  commissioner  for  the  collection  of  mining  statistics,  vice  J.  IJoss  Browne, 
appointed  minister  to  China. 


662  RESOURCES    OF    STATES   AND    TERRITORIES 

bureau  is  not  .1  progrcssivo  institution.  Tlio  best  savant  in  the  world,  put  into  a  bureau,  is  liable  to  crj-s- 
tallize  just  where  he  is,  and  never  prow  any  more.  The  only  way  to  secure  vitality  and  progress  in  snch  an 
establishment  is  to  make  it  .1  school.  Only  a  school  can  be  in  constant  communication  with  practical  men. 
People  will  not  spontaneously  write  to  a  mere  bureau,  but  the  fp-aduatcs  of  a  school  keep  up  relations  with 
their  former  comrades  and  teachers  as  long-  as  thev  live. 

If,  then,  the  government  is  to  spread  among  tiie  people  that  necessary  information  on  the  subject  of 
mining  and  mctallm'gy,  the  slow  acquisition  of  which  is  costing  us  so  many  millions  every  year,  and 
wasting  our  i-esources  "for  the  years  to  come,  there  is  no  better  way  than  to  establish  snch  a  school  as  Sen- 
ator Stewart  proposes,  and  make  it,  as  it  ought  to  be,  the  foremost" iu  the  world. 

The  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  deem.s  the  e.stablisliment  of  a  national  mining  school  a 
matter  of  sufficient  importance  to  give  it  favorable  notice  in  his  recent  report.  After  detailed 
reference  to  the  labors  of  the  special  commissioner  he  says  : 

Under  the  most  favorable  circumstances,  such  a  drain  upon  our  resources  as  that  to  which  attention  is 
now  called  would  appear  to  demand  the  serious  consideration  of  government.  The  special  commissioner 
lecommends,  as  the  only  possible  remedy,  the  establishment  at  some  central  point  west  of  the  Kocky  moun- 
tains of  a  national  mining  school,  organized  n])on  comprehensive  principles,  analogous  iu  its  general  design 
and  scope  to  the  great  mining  scliools  of  Europe.  By  the  concentration  of  scientilic  experience  upou 
the  processes  of  mining  and  metallurgy,  and  the  analytical  and  working  tests  that  could  be  applied  to 
the  ditfwent  orcvs,  where  individual  enterprise  has  so  long  and  so  signally  failed,  it  is  believed  the  results 
would  be  bcneljcial.  "Without  assinning  to  suggest  by  what  means  this  otject  could  be  best  accomplished, 
the  Secretary  deems  it  duo  to  the  enterprising  pioneers  of  the  west,  who  have  opened  up  a  vast  empire  to 
settlement  and  civilization,  that  their  wishes^as  represented  by  the  commissioner,  should  meet  with  the 
mo.st  favorable  consideration.  TVliatever  can  be  done  to  promote  their  welfare  will  be  a  national  benefit, 
and  none  will  question  that  tlie  tendency  of  scientific  institutions  is  to  strengthen  the  bonds  of  interest  and 
sympathy  between  a  peo2Jle  separated  bj'  a  diversity  of  pursuits  and  the  cii-cumstances  of  their  geogTaphical 
position. 

Differences  of  opinion  may  exist  as  to  the  means  proposed,  but  it  cannot  be  denied  that 
the  Secretary's  views  on  the  subject  are  just  and  liberal,  and  merit  the  favorable  considera- 
tion of  Congress. 

A  policy  is  presented,  in  the  bill  recently  introduced  by  Mr.  Stewart  of  Nevada,  which 
it  is  estimated  will  increase  the  annual  bullion  product  to  more  than  $200,000,000 
within  a  few  years.  Now  is  the  time  for  intelligent  action  on  the  subject.  The  Pacific 
railroad  is  opening  up  direct  and  easy  communication  with  the  great  interior  of  the  conti- 
nent. Our  mineral  resources  are  practically  without  limit.  More  than  nine-tenths  of  the 
mines  discovered  and  proved  to  be  valuable  are  now  lying  dormant.  The  question  is,  will 
government  lend  its  aid  to  their  development,  or  be  content  to  ignore  this  great  interest  ? 
So  far,  individual  energy  has  failed  to  accomplish  the  objects  contemplated  iu  Mr.  Stewart's 
bill.  Possibly  the  miners  may  be  more  successful  liereafter  than  they  have  been  for  the  past 
two  or  three  years  ;  but  the  history  of  mining  in  other  countries  does  not  sustain  that  hope 
with  reference  to  a  more  profitable  treatment  of  the  ores,  or  to  the  development  of  mineral 
lodes  now  irnproductive,  or,  indeed,  to  any  of  the  objects  designed  to  bo  accomplished  by 
the  establishment  of  a  national  school  of  mines.  It  is  clear,  then,  that  unless  some  action  is 
taken  on  the  subject  by  our  government,  past  experience  does  not  warrant  us  in  expecting 
an  increase  of  the  bullion  product  in  the  future. 

Mr.  Louis  A.  Garnett,  formerly  melter  and  refiner  in  the  United  States  branch  mint,  and 
at  present  manager  of  the  San  Francisco  Assaying  and  Refining  Works,  saj's,  in  a  printed 
letter  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  that  it  costs  in  labor  alone  $1  80  for  every  dollar  pro- 
duced from  our  mines.  lie  bases  this  estimate  upon  a  population  of  100,000  men  engaged 
directly  in  mining,  at  the  minimum  wages  of  $'■)  per  day  for  300  days,  and  upon  a  product 
of  ,$r)U, 000, 000.  A  mining  population  of  50,000,  engaged  in  actual  labor  in  the  mines  at  §4 
per  day  for  250  days,  would  probably  bo  nearer  the  facts.  This  would  give  a  result  of 
$50,000,000  as  the  cost  for  labor  alone.  Add  for  current  expenses  of  management,  wear  and 
tear  of  muchiucry,  material,  &.C.,,  $25,000,000,  and  you  have  a  total  cost,  without  calculating 
interest  on  capital,  of  $75,000,000  to  produce  $75,000,000,  the  maximum  estimate  for  this 
year  ;  in  other  words,  it  costs  a  dollar  to  produce  a  dollar.  "  Upon  what  principle  of  politi- 
cal economy,"  says  Mr.  Garnett,  "a  tax  upon  the  mining  interest  can  be  justified  I  confess 
■I  am  tumble  to  discover.  It  practically  amounts  to  taxing  a  man  for  the  privilege  of  work- 
ing at  liis  own  expense  for  the  public  benefit."  If  the  miners  are  taxed  at  all,  it  would  be 
good  policy  to  apply  the  tax  in  such  a  way  as  to  increase  the  product  of  bullion ;  still  better, 
to  take  the  tax  otY  altogether,  and  make  a  direct  and  liberal  appropriation  to  carry  out  the 
object  of  Mr.  Stewart's  bill. 

While  many  attach  great  value  to  a  national  school  of  mines,  there  are  some  who  cannot 
see  why  governnicut  might  not  as  well  establish  a  school  of  agriculture,  or  a  school  of  com- 
merce, or  a  school  of  commercial  navigation.  In  answer  to  this  it  may  be  said  that  there  is 
a  bureau  iu  the  Treasury  Department  specially  designed  to  promote  the  interests  of  com- 
merce and  navigation.  The  Coast  Survey,  the  Light-liouse  Board,  the  Consular  System, 
the  IJoard  of  Steam  Boiler  Inspectors,  are  all  carried  on  at  government  expense  for  the  ben- 
efit of  commerce  and  navigation.  The  Bureau  of  Statistics  is  an  important  aid  to  commerce 
and  navigation.  Surely  these  great  interests  have  no  cause  to  complain.  What  has  gov- 
ernment done,  on  any  scale  commensurate  with  tliese  expensive  branches  of  the  public 
service,  to  promote  the  interest  of  mining  ?  Congress  has  already  established  a  Department 
of  Agriculture,  and  provided  by  donations  of  land  for  "schools  of  agriculture  and  the 
mechanic  arts."  But  no  mining  school  has  been  established  by  any  of  the  States  or  Terri- 
tories under  the  act  of  18G2.     California  is  about  to  establish  a  State  university,  in  which 


I 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY   MOUNTAINS.  663 

there  will  probably  be  ft  Jeiiartnient  for  instruction  in  niinin»,  as  in  some  of  the  collofjes  of 
the  east,  with  which  this  cloiuition  has  been  cunsolidatcil.  .Somothiiig^,  of  course,  will  bo 
gained  by  such  elementary  instruction,  but  these  niisci'lhuifous  institutions  can  never  prove 
a  substitute  for  a  great  central  mining  school,  devoted  exclusively  to  mining.  As  for  com- 
merce, it  will  take  care  of  itself,  with  all  oiher  schools  for  the  promotiou  of  industry  and  the 
products  of  the  earth  to  sustaiu  it. 

Senator  Stewart,  in  his  able  and  elaborate  speech  of  January  IG,  1808,  says  : 

Our  mines  an?  the  licritncre  of  tho  vholo  nafiim,  liouslit  niul  rctaiiiod  iit  tin-  rxiicnsc  of  coiimion  lilood  and 
treasure.  The  nation  is  infoiestcil  in  niakiiiir  tliciii  avuilable  for  };r('at  and  lioiirlicial  pniiioscs.  A  dobt  of 
pratitniio  is  duo  to  the  pioneer  who  lias  disioveied  the  hidden  wealth  of  that  icei'ntly  unUnown  i'ej;:ion  of 
the  Itoeky  and  SieiTa  Nevada  mountains.  It  is  but  jnst  that  the  mines  should  be  free"  to  him.  lie  must  be 
rewarded  for  his  risks  and  saerifiees  or  others  will  eease  to  exi>loro,  and  discoveries  of  tho  precious  metals 
will  terminate.  ]5ut  it  is  vandalism  to  rciinirc  men  to  learn  the  art  of  mining-,  not  only  at  the  saurilicc  of 
their  own  labor  aTid  time,  but  at  the  expense  of  millions  of  dollars  in  waste  of  the  richest  ores,  while  the 
exiKM'ience  of  mankind  is  of  record  and  could  bo  made  available  to  all  by  means  of  a  common  ccutre  of 
miuinjr  intelliiriMiee  and  instruction.  ****** 

There  is  another  imiwrtant  nrji-ument  in  favor  of  the  development  of  our  mines.  The  rcfrion  of  countiy 
in  which  tlu'v  are  situated  is  far  removed  from  market,  and  the  aiirieultural  resources  of  themselves  aro 
insuttieient  to  induce  .settlements  and  the  development  of  the  fertile  valleys  and  arable  lands  which  we  fiiul 
interspersed  amonsr  the  mountains  and  deserts.  Tho  mines  furnish  a  ready  market,  enhance  the  value  of 
the  lands,  build  up  agricultural  communities,  induce  the  construction  of  railroads  and  other  internal 
improvements,  caus<'  the  erection  of  manufactories,  school-houses,  and  churches,  and  attract  all  the  advan- 
tages of  civiliwd  society.  It  is  hitilily  important  that  tlie.sc  mountain  valleys  should  be  inhabited.  They 
are  more  healthful  and  inviporatinir  foi-  the  liabitations  of  men  than  any  other  portions  of  tho  United  States. 
There  civilization  and  free  institutions  will  prosper.  "Wo  want  the  Pacific  and  the  Atlantic  united  by  a 
continuous  line  of  i>opulation  as  well  as  by  railroatls  and  other  artificial  channels  of  communication. 

It  is  unsafe  for  the  Pacitic  slope,  with  its  Renial  climate,  unbounded  resources,  and  vast  commercial 
ndvantaiies,  soon  to  be  inhabited  by  many  millions  of  men,  to  be  separated  from  tho  Atlantic  by  hundreds 
of  miles  of  uninhabited  countiy.  The  prosperity  of  the  mining  interests  is  the  only  means  that  will  induce 
settlement  of  the  iutcrveuiug  space  and  secure  its  development. 

The  following  extracts  from  various  eminent  authorities  are  cited  in  support  of  the  pro- 
posed national  school  of  mines  : 

It  is  with  indescribable  regret  that  I  have  seen  tho  youth  of  the  United  States  migrating  to  foreign  coun- 
tries, in  order  to  acquire  the  higher  branches  of  erudition,  and  to  obtain  a  knoNvlodge  of  tho  sciences. 
Although  it  would  be  injustice  to  prono\nieo  the  certainty  of  their  militaiy  maxims  not  congenial  with 
republicanism,  it  must  nevertheless  bo  admitted  that  a  serious  danger  is  encountered  by  sending  about 
among  other  political  systems  those  who  have  not  well  learned  the  value  of  theii-  own.  (President  Wash- 
ington to  Itobert  Brooke,  esq.) 

This  species  of  establishment  contributes  doubly  to  the  increase  of  improvement  by  stimulating  to  enter- 
prise ana  experiment,  and  by  drawing  to  a  common  centre  the  results  evei^whcre  "of  individual  skill  and 
observation,  and  spreading  thcra  thence  over  the  whole  nation.  Experience  accordingly  has  sliown  tliat 
they  are  very  cheap  instruraeuts  of  immense  national  benefit.  (President  Washington's  speech  to  both 
houses  of  Congress,  December  7,  179().) 

It  is  a  consolation  to  obser\e  that  under  every  zone  the  cidtivation  of  science  and  art  cstalilishes  a  certain 
equality  among  men,  and  obliterates,  for  a  time"  at  least,  all  those  petty  passions  of  which  the  effects  aro  so 
piTJudicial  to  social  happiness.     (Baron  Humboldt.) 

Settled  by  the  hard  labor  of  human  hands,  they  [the  regions  of  the  West]  are  now  to  be  settled  by  tho 
labor-saving  arts,  by  maehinei-Tr,  by  tlie  steam  engine,  and  by  internal  improvements.  Uitherto  the  work  to 
bo  done  was  that  which  notlung  but  the  tough  sinews  of  the  arm  of  man  could  accomplish.  (Edward 
Everett's  Orations  and  Speeches,  vol.  1.) 

Industri.tl  enterprise  is  everywhere  stimulated ;  the  paths  of  adventure  are  opened ;  the  boundless  west 
prevents  tho  older  settlements  from  being  overstocked,  and  puves  scope  for  an  unlimited  development  of 
energy.  Education  is  wanted  to  enlighten  and  direct  these  active,  moving  powers.  Without  it,  niueli  wild 
vigor  will  be  exerted  in  vain.  Energy  alone  is  not  enough;  it  must  be  tiu-ued  to  feasible  objects,  and  work 
by  sound  principlcK.     (Edward  Evere'tt's  Orations,  vol.  2.) 

The  history  of  the  progi'ess  of  tho  human  mind  shows  us  that,  for  want  of  a  diffusion  of  scientific  know- 
ledge among  practical  men,  great  e\  ils  have  resulted,  both  to  science  and  practice.     (Edward  Everett,  vol.  1.) 

If  til  the  ingeiuiity  of  the  JN'ew  Woild.  tlie  tliurougliness,  the  patience,  and  the  science  of  the  Old  could 
be  ndch'd,  far  greater  results  might  be  expected  than  those  we  now  attain.     ("N'orth  American  Ileview.) 

Private  establishments  are  delect  ive  in  their  constitution,  limited  in  their  operation,  and  incapable,  from 
their  very  nature,  of  developing  and  diioLting  and  rewarding  the  indigenous  tident  of  the  country.  They 
aro  under  no  obligation  to  do  the  scienlilie  work  of  the  State,  or  to  i)rom(ito  any  of  those  national  objects 
which  are  intrusted  to  the  organized  institutions  of  other  lands.  (Su'  David  Brewster,  address  before  tho 
British  Assoeiatiou,  July  31,  le.VJ.) 

It  is  onlv  experience,  aided  bv  science,  that  is  rapid  in  development  and  certain  in  action.  (Lvon  Play- 
fair.  C.  B.,"  F.  B.  S.) 

Mining  schools  have  long  existed  in  France,  Bussia,  Prussia,  Saxony,  Austria,  Spain,  Sweden,  and  other 
countries  even  less  connected  with  mining;  and  their  practical  vahu;  is  recognized  by  the  fact  that  the 
respective  governments  of  these  states  have  found  it  ne(u'ssary  to  develop  still  further  the  educational 
resources  of  such  institutions.  The  want  of  similar  establishments  in  this  country  has  long  been  felt  in 
mining  districts,  and  has  Iuimi  oxjiressed  both  in  Parliament  and  in  memorials  aiidressed  to  the  government. 
Ill  the  reiwrf  of  the  committee  of  the  lIou.se  of  Lords,  (184'J,)  the  committee  oliserved  that  "  among  those 
best  (lualitied  to  speak  upon  this  point,  a  want  appears  to  be  felt  of  facilities  for  aei|iiiring mining  edncal ion, 
such  as  provided  by  the  mining  schools  and  colleges  established  in  the  principal  mining  districts  of  Iheeon- 
tincnt,  apparently  with  tho  most  beneficial  effect."  (Prospectus  government  school  of  mines,  London, 
le.T.?-.-}.) 

Looking  at  the  class  of  men  who,  in  this  kingdom,  are  intrusted  with  tho  direction  of  collieries  and  mines, 
we  find  them,  in  general,  characterized  by  a  remarkable  degree  of  e«iergy  and  intelligenei> ;  and  yet  it  can- 
not be  denied  that  independently  of  the  losses  entailed  liy  the  uncertainty  of  mineral  veins,  huge  sinus  ivro 
yearly  squandered  on  ill-judged,  and  sometimes  even  absurd  speculations,  whieli  a  greater  amount  of  expe- 
rience on  the  part  of  the  proposer  woidd  have  taught  him  to  modify  or  abandon.  ("NVrightman,  Geological 
Suney,  (Jreat  Britain.) 

It  is  conceded  to  agricultrn'o  that  tho  fniits  of  the  earth,  reprodnced  annually,  can  be  stimulated  by  an 
application  of  acquired  knowledge,  connected  with  practical  training,  ujion  a"  fann  conducted  uiion  the 
pnuciplcs  taught,  where  theory  and  practice  are  combined.    But  it  is  denied  to  mining,  a  pursuit  iu  which 


664 


EESOURCES    OF    STATES   AKD    TERRITORIES 


nature  irivps  but  one  erop,  with  the  production  of  -n-hich  man  has  not  assisted,  and  where  all  the  knowledge 
demanifod  is  to  secure  the  production  at  hand  by  the  most  expeditious,  economical,  and  safe  means  which 
experience  and  science  furnish.     (Gregory  Yale"  Titles  to  Mining  Claims.) 

The  arts  of  mining  and  geology  mutually  support  and  illustrate  each  other.  As  the  geologist  is  indebted 
to  the  labors  and  obseiTations  of  the  miner  for  many  important  facts  relative  to  the  formation  of  tlie  crust 
of  the  earth,  so  the  miner  must  possess  some  degree  of  geological  knowledge  if  he  desires  to  ascertain  the 
l)resenee  of  useful  minerals  in  his  district,  such  as  ores,  precious  stones,  rock  salt,  <fcc.  He  who  abandons 
the  simple  and  correct  way  pointed  out  by  geological  experience,  runs  the  risk  of  groping  in  conjecture  and 
doubt,  and  this  is  of  particular  importance  in  mining,  for  it  is  rtn  enterprise  brilliant  and  full  of  promise, 
and  at  the  same  time  expeusivc,  and  often  illusoij.  (Professor  K.  C.  Von  Leonhard,  University  of  Heidel- 
l)erg.) 

Of  the  importance  of  an  increased  product  of  the  preciotis  metals  there  can  be  no  question. 
The  ablest  political  economists  of  Europe  and  America  are  unanimous  upon  that  point. 

Mr.  Seward,  in  the  course  of  a  debate  in  the  Senate  shortly  after  the  admission  of  Cali- 
fornia into  the  Union,  said  : 

The  objects  of  the  United  States  in  regard  to  the  gold  mines  in  California  shonld  be,  in  the  first  place,  to 
bring  to  the  general  public  use  of  the  people  of  the  United  States  the  largest  possible  acquisition  of  national 
vicalth  from  tlieir  newly-discovered  fountains  ;  and  secondly,  to  render  the  mining  operations  conducive  to 
the  best  and  speediest  possible  settlement  of  our  vast  countries  on  the  Pacific  coast,  which  are  so  soon  to 
exercise  boundless  commercial,  social,  and  poUtical  influences  over  the  eastern  world. 

Mr.  Benton  was  "  decidedly  of  the  opinion  that  the  United  States  ought  not  to  undertake 
to  make  a  revenue  out  of  the  mines ;  that  the  United  States  ought  to  content  herself  with 
getting  the  wealth  out  of  the  bowels  of  the  earth  itself." 

Sir  Archibald  Allisoa,  referring  to  the  wonderful  eilects  of  the  gold  discoveries  in  Califor- 
nia and  Australia,  makes  use  of  this  emphatic  language : 

That  which  for  five  and  twenty  years  had  been  wanting — a  currency  commensurate  to  the  incrca.sod  num- 
bers and  transactions  of  the  civilized  world — was  now  supplied  by  the  Ijcueficent  hand  of  natme.  The  era 
of  a  contracted  cm'rency,  and  consequent  low  prices  and  general  misery,  inteiTupted  by  passing  gleams  of 
prosperity,  was  at  an  end.  Prices  rapidly  rose ;  wages  advanced  in  a  similar  proportion ;  exports  and 
imports  enormously  increased,  ^hile  crime  and  misery  as  rapidly  diminished. 

Mr.  Conness,  always  earnest  in  his  advocacy  of  great  measures  for  the  development  of  the 
material  resomces  of  the  Pacific  slope,  said,  in  the  course  of  the  debate  on  the  mineral  land 

bill: 

I  will  not  undertake  to  extend  this  debate  or  the  consideration  of  this  question  by  entering  into  an  esti- 
mate of  what  the  production  of  gold  costs.  It  would  be  mere  guessing  at  best ;  but  I  undertake  to  say  that 
there  is  no  commodity  which  the  enterprise  and  commerce  of  our  country  and  of  the  world  require  so  much 
as  the  addition  to  our  ch'culation  of  the  precious  metals.  I  need  not  waste  a  word  in  stating  how  it  incites 
the  trade  and  commerce  of  the  country,  and  of  the  whole  world. 

Mr.  Nye  said,  in  the  course  of  the  same  debate : 

I  beg  the  Senate  to  bear  in  mind  the  fact  that  cvciy  additional  dollar  of  gold  and  silver  that  we  produce 
lays  the  foinidation  of  our  financial  structure  on  a  rnore  stable  foundation.  Let  it  be  knowni  that  we  can 
produce  gold  and  silver  to  make  our  credit  always  secure  and  suie.  that  the  interest  will  be  paid  in  the  pre- 
cious metals,  and  our  credit  will  stand  as  high  if  not  higher  than  that  of  any  other  nation  of  the  cai-th. 

The  importance  of  such  an  increase  to  the  United  States  has  been  forcibly  presented  by 
the  Committee  on  Pubhc  Lands  of  the  House.  Mr.  Julian,  the  intelligent  chairman  of  that 
committee,  who  very  ably  supported  the  policy  of  granting  absolute  titles  in  fee  to  the 
miners,  though  opposed  to  the  form  of  the  bill  reported  by  the  Senate  committee,  says,  in  a 
report  on  the  mineral  lands,  dated  June  5,  1866 : 

In  the  judgment  of  the  committee  there  is  very  great  need  of  an  increase  in  the  quantity  of  precious 
metals.  The  disproportion  of  fsoU\  and  silver  to  other  values,  and  to  our  commercial  wants,  is  Very  remark- 
able. If  practicable,  it  shonld  be  reduced.  Tlie  property  of  the  United  States,  within  the  last  ten  years, 
has  increased  about  ?PO(),UOO.(IO()  per  year :  and  this  increase  is  estimated  to  be  more  than  two  hundredtimea 
greater  than  the  increase  of  coin  durinir  the  same  period.  It  is  believed  that  some  policy  whieli  Avill  secm-e 
to  the  government  a  fresh  and  liberal  supply  of  the  precious  metids  will  be  fomid  absolutely  necessary. 

Mr.  Robert  J.  Walker,  the  distinguished  statesmau  and  financier,  says,  in  a  recent  able 
letter : 

All  the  benefits  of  skill  and  experience  derived  from  years  of  devotion  to  business  pursuits,  are  lost 
through  flnctuations  in  the  currency,  which  no  sagacity  or  skill  can  anticipate.  "When  we  retlect  that  each 
nation  is  but  a  i>art  of  the  great  "community  of  states,  united  by  ties  of  commerce,  business,  and  inter- 
changes, and  find  the  rest  of  the  world  sustained  by  a  sjiecie  currency,  which  is  of  uniform,  nniver-sal  inter- 
natiiiiinl  \ahu',  how  can  we  who  are  dealing  witli  doiireciated  paper  expect  to  compete  suceessfMlly  with 
those  countries  whose  niiiiuy  is  jrold.  or  its  actual  equivali'ut  ?  Xo  nation  has  ever  tried  this  experiment 
williout  vast  sacrifices  and  great  failures.  So  loni;-  as  tlie  cniTcncy  of  the  world  is  gold,  any  nation  departing 
from  tliis  standard  impairs  its  own  power  of  successfnl  competiti<ui,  and  gradually  drives  its  j)rodacts  from 
the  markets  of  the  world.  It  is  true  that  it  may,  to  a  certain  extent,  so  f;u'  as  sranggling  does  not  open  the 
safety-valve,  keep  out  foreiirn  imports  for  a  time,  th<'rcliy  ainiiliilating  its  exports;  but  prices  s<ionriseat 
honu"  in  a  ratio  coiTes|ioiulin.i;-  «  illi  tlie  anginrnfi'd  dutii's.  and,  the  cheek  becmnintr  inetfeetual,  is  souirht  to 
be  remedied  by  augmented  taritls.  It  is  totally  impossible  for  a  tuition  like  the  United  States  to  witlidraw 
from  tlie  bnsiiiess  operations  of  tlie  woilj,  and  it  is  equally  im|)ractieablc  to  caiTy  on  successful  international 
exchanges  when  the  money  of  the  country  is  depreciated  paper. 

December  2,  1867,  Sir.  Stewart,  United  States  senator  from  Nevada,  asked,  and  by  unani- 
mous consent  obtained,  leave  to  bring  in  the  following  bill,  which  was  read  twice  and 
ordered  to  be  printed;  December  3,  1867,  referred  to  the  Committee  on  Mines  and  Mining; 
February  20,  1868,  reported  by  Mr.  Stewart,  with  amendments. 


WEST    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  665 

A  BILL  to  cstublisli  a  national  scliool  of  mines. 

Be  it  enactfd  by  the  Senate  and  IToiute  o/  lycpicurntativen  of  the  United  States  of  America  in  Congress 
a.is'em()Ivit,  That  the  tax  levied  and  eolleeted  uiioii  ^'oUl  and  silver  bullion  ir  the  States  nud  Territories 
■  situated  in  whole  or  in  part  west  of  the  eastern  base  of  the  llocUy  mountains  be  set  apart,  so  lonjf  as  tlio 
same  shall  be  eoUeeted  bv  the  government,  as  a  si)ecial  fund  for  the  endowment  and  support  of  a  school  of 
mines,  to  be  loeated  on  the  line  of  the  I'aeiiie  railroad,  west  of  the  lloeUy  mountains,  as  near  as  practicabks 
to  the  eentre  of  the  minini;  States  and  Territories. 

[Skc.  2.  And  be  it  further  enacted,  That  each  State  and  Territory  located  in  whole  or  in  pait  west  of  tho 
eastern  base  of  the  ijoeky  mountains  may  ajipoint  one  member  of  a" board  of  directors,  a  majority  of  whom 
shall  eonstitute  a  ipiorum" ;  and  in  ca.se  of  tailure  on  the  part  of  any  State  or  Territory  so  to  appoint,  tho 
President  shall  appoint  sueh  member  by  and  with  the  advice  and  consent  of  the  Senate";  but  no  part  of  the 
fund  heroin  provided  for  shall  be  expended  in  salaries,  travelling  or  other  personal  expenses  of  the  said 
board  of  directors.] 

Sicc.  2.  And  be  it  further  enacted,  That  the  management  of  tho  institution  shall  bo  nnder  the  control  of 
eight  directors,  a  majority  of  whom  shall  constitute  a  (luorinr.  The  directors  shall  be  selected  from  tho 
nnuing  States  and  Tenitorics.  and  appointed  by  the  President,  by  and  witli  the  advice  and  consent  of  the 
Senate,  and  shall  hold  their  ollice  for  four  years,"  and  until  their  successors  arc  appointed  and  (jualilicd:  Pro- 
vided, That  the  following  named  persons  shall  constitute  the  board  of  directors  from  the  lirst  day  of  July, 
anno  Domini  eighteen  iiundred  and  sixty-eight,  until  the  first  of  July,  eighteen  huiidrcd  and  seventy, 
namely:  Sherman  Day  and  William  Ashliiirner,  of  California;  V.  A.  Tritle  and  D.  W.  Welfy,  of  Nevada; 

A.  C.  "Gibbs,  of  Oregou; ,  of  Idalio;  A.  J.  Simmons,  of  Montana;  and  John  Pierce,  of  Colorado. 

In  case  of  failure  of  any  of  the  nbovenamed  persons  to  serve,  or  should  a  vacancy  occur  from  anj*  other 
ciiuse,  the  same  shall  be"  filled  as  hereinbefore  provided.  The  directors  shall  receive  no  compensation  for 
theu-  services,  but  their  actual  travelling  and  other  expenses  incurred  while  attending  to  the  business  of  tho 
institution  shall  bo  paid. 

Seo.  :i.  A  (id  be  it  further  enacted.  That  the  said  board  of  directors  shall  have  power  to  make  rules  and 
regulations  for  the  organization  and  government  of  the  school;  shall  appoint  its  professors,  teachers,  and 
ofiicers,  and  exercise  supervision  and  control  over  tho  fund  herein  appropriated. 

Sicc.  4.  And  be  it  further  enacted.  That  no  professor  or  teacher  [or  other  ollicerl  of  this  institution  shall 
lie  removed  except  upon  charges  and  specifications  duly  investigated  liy  tho  board  of  directors,  and  tho 
decision  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  to  whom  the  "facts  and  the  evidence  shall  bo  reported,  shall  bo 
conclusive. 

Skc.  a.  And  be  it  further  enacted.  That  tuition  in  this  institution  shall  be  free  to  any  citizen  of  the  United 
States  who  may  present  proper  evidences  of  (pialilication,  to  be  determined  by  the  faculty  ;  and  it  shall  also 
be  free  to  students  from  other  countries,  duly  recommended  by  the  authorities  of  the  schools  iu  whicli  they 
shall  have  become  ((ualified  ;  but  all  expenses  for  books  and  stationery,  and  all  personal  expenses  lor  lodging, 
subsistence,  and  travelling,  shall  be  borne  by  the  students  themselves. 

Si:c.  <;.  And  be  it  further  enacted,  That  the  primaiy  object  of  the  school  being  an  increase  of  tho  bullioa 
product  of  the  country,  by  the  practical  application  of  science  to  mining,  and  the  diU'usioa  of  correct 
knowledge  among  miners  as  to  the  best  methods  of  treating  tlic  ores,  no  charge  shall  bo  made  for  assays, 
tests,  metallurgical  or  other  experiments,  except  to  cover  the  actual  cost  of  material  used. 

Sf.c.  7.  And  be  it  further  enacted,  That  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  on  and  after  the  first  day  of  July, 
eighteen  hundi-ed  and  sixty-eight,  shall  set  apart  the  fund  hereby  appropriated  for  the  purpose  named  in  this 
act ;  and  ho  shall,  after  receiving  a  report  from  tho  board  of  directors,  locate  the  school  and  furnish  plails 
and  speeific.'itions  for  all  necessary  buildings  and  improvements,  which  shall  be  plain  and  substantial,  and 
upon  the  most  economical  plan  consistent  with  the  inu'poses  of  the  institution. 

Sec.  8.  And  be  it  further  eyiacted.  That  in  order  that  the  board  of  directors  may  bo  placed  iu  possession 
of  tlie  most  approved  systems  of  education,  the  Secretary  of  the  Trcasm'y  shall  cause  an  examination  to  be 
made  of  the  principal  mining  schools  of  Europe,  and  a  report  to  bo  prepared  upon  the  same,  the  expense  of 
such  service  to  be  paid  out  of  the  (unexpendcid  balance  of  tho  appropriation  heretofore  made  for  tho  collec- 
tion of  miniu.g  statistics]  funds  of  the  institution. 

Sec.  9.  And  be  it  further  enacted.  That  tho  duties  now  performed  by  tho  special  commissioner  appointed 
by  tho  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  to  collect  mining  statistics  in  the  States  and  TciTitories  west  of  tho  Kooky 
mountains,  shall,  upon  the  or.cranization  and  completion  of  the  school  of  mines  created  by  this  act,  be  per- 
formed nnder  a  permanent  system  by  the  faculty  of  said  institution,  and  their  report  shallbe  transmitted  to 
the  Secretary  of^tho  Treasury,  to  be"  by  him  laid  before  Congress. 

Sec.  10.  And  be  it  further'enactcd.  That  the  professors  and  teachers,  under  tho  direction  of  the  ])resident 
of  the  institution,  shall  make  [aniHi;d]  visits  to  the  piineipal  mining  districts,  accompanied  by  tlieii-  respective 
classes,  for  the  purpose  of  examining  the  mines,  mills,  and  modes  of  Avorking,  and  instructing  the  pupils  iu 
the  practical  operations  of  mining  and  metallurgy  ;  and  the  said  professors  and  teachers  shall  also,  as  far  as 
their  time  will  pennit,  give  free  lectures  to  tlu!  miners  on  geology,  mineralogy,  metallurgy,  and  mining 
engineering,  and  kindred  subjects.  And  the  faculty  may  require,  as'u  part  of  tho  regular  course  of  instruc- 
tion, the  pupils  to  engage  for  ii  prescribed  period  in  practical  minin,g  and  milling. 

Sec.  11.  And  be  it  further  enacted.  That  the  .Secretary  of  the  Treasury  shall  require  from  tho  directors 
and  from  the  disbursing  otfiecr  or  otlleers  appointed  by  "the  board  of  directors  such  bonds  and  vonchers  as 
ho  may  deem  necessary  for  the  security  and  proper  disbursement  of  the  fund. 

Sec"  Iv.'.  A  nd  be  it  further  cnacicd.  That  from  and  after  th(>  expiration  of  the  fiscal  year  commencing  July 
first,  eighteen  hundred  and  sixty-eight,  not  exceeding  one-half  of  the  fund  arising  Irom  the  tax  levied  upon 
gold  and  silver  bullion  sliidl  be  expended  by  qj-  on  behalf  of  the  institution,  the  [remaining  half  to]  rem;dn- 
aer  shall  be  set  apart  by  tho  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  and  invested  in  government  securities,  which  shall 
remain,  both  iirincipid  and  interest,  n  pennanent  fund  for  the  support  and  raaintenar.ee  of  tlio  institution; 
and  no  part  of  the  moneys  so  reserved,  [half]  either  principal  or  interest,  shall  bo  drawn  so  long  as  the  pov- 
ernment  shall  continue  to  impose  n  tax  upon  gold  and  silver  bullion,  but  after  such  tax  shall  have  couseu  tho 
interest  on  the  reserved  fund  shall  be  used  for  tho  pm'poses  hereiubeforo  mentioned. 


INDEX  TO  J.  ROSS  BROWNE'S  REPORT. 


Page. 

Letter  of  Secretary  of  the  Treasury 1 

J.  Ross  Browne  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury.  3 

CAWFOKXIA. 

SECTION  I. 

General  condition  of  mining  interest 12 

Errors  in  mining 12 

Entries  under  act  of  July  26,  1866 13 

Revenue  law  of  California 14 

Surveys 14 

SECTION  11. 

The  Hiother  lode 14 

Course  and  dip 14 

Character  of  the  gold 15 

Width  of  lode 15 

Pay  chimneys 15 

Iliils  and  hollows 15 

Peculiarities  of  the  lode 15 

Is  it  a  fissure  vein? 16 

Claims  in  Mariposa 16 

Claims  in  Tuolumne 17 

Claims  in  Calaveras 18 

Claims  in  Amador 19 

SECTION  in. 

SInrlposa  connty 19 

Placer  mining , 20 

Agriculture 20 

Yosemite 21 

Mariposa  estate 21 

Princeton  mine 25 

Pine  Tree  mine 27 

Josephine  mine 27 

Miiriposa  mine 28 

Green  Gulch  mine 29 

Other  mines 29 

JIariposa  mills 30 

Hunter's  valley 30 

Epperson  mine 31 

Black  mine 31 

Ferf,-uson  mine 31 

Louisiana  mine 31 

Flannigan  mine 31 

Coward  mine 32 

Calico  mine 32 

Compromise  mine 32 

Marble  Spring  mine 32 

Cherokee  mine 32 

Shimer  mine 33 

Goodwin  mine 33 

Bell  and  McGrew  mine 33 

JicKenzie  mine 34 

Hidley  and  Cunningham  mine 34 

^lary  Harrison  mine 34 

Crown  Lead  mine 34 

Ilitc'sCove  mine 34 

Bridgeport  mine 34 

Pcnon  Blanco  mine 35 

SECTION  IV. 

Tnolnmne  connty 35 

Columbia 36 

Knapp's  ranch 37 

Sawmill  flat 38 

Shaw's  flat 38 

Sonora 38 

Big  Oak  flat 38 

Kincaidflat 38 

Jamestown » 38 

Other  towns 38 


Tnolnmne  connty — Continued.  Page. 

Table  mouutain 33 

Quartz  mining  in  Tuolumne 42 

Golden  Rule  miuo 42 

App  mine 43 

Silver  mine 43 

Ileslcp  mine 43 

Trio  mine 44 

Reist  mine * 44 

Mooncy  mine 44 

Raw  Hide  mine 44 

Eagle  mine 44 

Sharomut  mine 44 

Clio  mine 44 

Meader  and  Carringtou  mine 44 

Patterson  mine 44 

Toledo  mine 45 

Soulsby  mine 45 

Plattmine 46 

Starr  King  mine 46 

Old  Gilson  mine 46 

Grizzly  mine 46 

Mount  Vernon  mine 47 

Snell  mine 47 

Monitor  mine 47 

Hazel  Dell  mine 47 

Summit  Pass  mine 47 

Quai^z  near  Columbia  mine 47 

Hunter  mine 48 

Lewis  mine 48 

Sell  and  Martin  mine 43 

Sophia  mine 49 

Bald  Mountain  mine 49 

Draper  mine 49 

Nonpareil  mine 49 

Btmis  mine 50 

Otner  quartz  near  Big  Oak 50 

SECTION  V.  ^- 

Calaveras  connty 50 

Big  Tree  grove 51 

Agriculture 52 

Meteorology 52 

San  Andreas 52 

San  Andreas  old  channel 53 

Mokelumne  Hill 54 

Mokelumne  Hill,  old  channel 55 

Opals 56 

Camps  near  Mokelumne  Hill 56 

Douglass  Flat  mine 56 

Murphy's  mine 57 

Vallecifo  mine 58 

Minor  Placer  camps 58 

Quartz  regulations  of  Angels 58 

Quartz  regulations  of  San  Andreas 59 

Quartz  mining  in  Calaveras 59 

Morgan  mine 59 

Reserve  mine CO 

Enterprise  mine 60 

South  Carolina  mine 60 

Stanislaus  mine 61 

Santa  Cruz  mine 02 

Union  Creek  mine 62 

Carson  Creek  mine 62 

Bovee  mine 63 

Angels  mine 63 

Hill's  mine 64 

Stickles  mine 64 

Ulica  mine 64 

Lightner  mine 64 

Ella  mine 64 

West  Point  mine 65 

Fisher's  mill 66 

Harris's  mill 66 

Belcher's  mill 66 

Lacey's  mill 66 


668 


INDEX. 


Calaveras  oonnly— Continued.                 Page. 
Skull  Flat  mill ^o 


Carleton  mine 


66 


Morris's  mill 

Mosquito  mine 

Railroad  Flat  mill 
Woodhouse  mine 


Vance's  mill 515 

C6 

66 

66 

66 

Holmes  mine r ^ 

Boston  mine "' 

Quail  Hill  mine 67 

Collier  mine "^ 

Brushville  mine 69 

Plymouth  mine 69 

Lamphear  mine JP 

Cadwallander  mill "J^ 

French  mill '^ 

McGlynnniill 7o 

Cherokee  mine *. Jy 

6an  Domingo  mine - IP 

Murphy's  mine J^ 

Crispin  mine J^ 

Isabel  mine ^J 

Calavcritas  mill 71 

Albion  mine ^'■ 

Thorpe's  mine ^^ 

Itadcliffe  mine ^J^ 

Carpenter  mine J} 

Pm-nell  mine ''^ 

SECTION  VI. 

Ama«Ioi*  county 71 

Volcano i* 

Quartz  regulations  of  Amador "3 

Quartz  veins  about  volcano ^-^ 

Marlette  mine J'^ 

Coney  mine J^* 

Blue  Jacket  mine ^■J 

Trowbridge  mine l^ 

Oneida  mine ^ Jf 

Hay  ward  mine l;i 

Railroad  mine ^o 

Loriug  Hill  mine '6 

Wildman  mine Jo 

iiincoln  mine _^° 

Comet  mine ^° 

Herbert ville  mine '° 

Keystone  mine Jp 

Spring  Hill  raino J^ 

Amador  mine '' 

Bunker  Hill  mine ^^ 

Hazard  mine Jj^ 

liOyal  mine 2Z 

Italian  mme -  - ^ ' 

Seaton  mine 1]^ 

Potosi  mine j^J^ 

Webster  mine '' 

Plymouth  mine JJ 

Enterprise  mine '° 

Richmond  mine Jf 

Mcader's  sulphuret  works J8 

Rose  mill  and  mine J| 

^Volverine  mine ^8 

Kearsing  mill ^°^ 

JHinckley  mine '° 

jAtchiuson's  mill '" 

tTubb'smill 7« 

Paugh's  mine '° 

Union  mine l^ 

Tellurium  mine ^" 

Anaconda  mine j^jj 

Thoss  mill '^ 

Craft's  raino |0 

Golden  Eagle  mine I^J 

Beldon  mine 6jJ 

Pioneer  miue g" 

Mitchell  mine =0 

Golden  Gate  mine 80 

Birocco  mine |Jj 


El  I>oraclo  oonnty— Continued.  Page. 

Miscellaneous  resources 83 

Blue  channel 82 

Gray  channel 83 

Claims  on  Weber  tlivide 83 

Claims  on  Reservoir  hill 84 

Claims  on  Spanish  hill 85 

Indian  diggings 85 

Placerville  mining  regulations 85 

Mud  Springs  mining  regulations 86 

Georgetown  mining  regulations 66 

Reed  mine 87 

Pacific  mine 87 

Harmon  mine 87 

Shepard  mine 87 

Cleopatra  mine 87 

White  and  Burdict  mine 88 

Persevere  mine 88 

White  mine 88 

Manning  mine 88 

EUe  Ellen  mine 88 

Eppley  mine 83 

Davidson  mine 83 

Montezuma  mine 88 

New  York  and  El  Dorado  mill 83 

Hermitage  mine 83 

Union  mine 88 

Wilder  mine 89 

Pocahontas  mine 89 

Union  Church  mine 89 

Gray  mine 89 

Bryant  mine 8 J 

Beard  mine - 89 

Independence  mine 89 

Stillwagon  mine 89 


Kelley  mine 


SECTION  VU. 


El  noraclo  comity ^] 

Town 81 

Shingle  Springs  railroad 81 

Placerville  wagon  road >• 81 


Silger  mine. 
Greenwood  mine 

Taylor  mine 

Rosecrans  mine.. 
Blue  Lead  mine  . 

Collins  mine 

Alpine  mine 

Woodside  mine 


89 
90 
90 
90 
90 
90 
90 

James's  mill •'}• 

Eureka  mine ^ J- 

Georgia  Slide  mine ^l 

Mosquito  mine ^^ 

Plymouth  mine ^^ 

Gopher  mine J'J^ 

Last  Chance  mine ^>- 

Reward  mine ^^ 

SECTIO.V  vni. 

Placer  county ^ 

Miscellaneous  resources 9^ 

Forest  Hill  divide 92 

Forest  hill 9^ 

Blue  lead  at  Forest  hill 92 

Careless  working 93 

Future  of  Forest  hill 93 

Principal  claims 93 

Claims  at  Todd's  valley 93 

Dardanell's  mine 91 

Oro  xnine 94 

Green  Spring  mine 94 

Uncle  Sam  mine 94 

Hope  and  Rockland  mine J4 

Fast  and  Nort  wood  mine 94 

Snyder  mine 94 

Independence  mine 94 

New  Jersey  mine ■ 94 

Jenny  Lind  mine ^^ 

Gore  mine „„ 

Maine  mine 


Roug''.  and  Ready  mine 90 


Deidesheimer  and  other  mines. 
Michigan  Bluff  mine  . . 

Tail  sluices 

North  American  claim 
Nitro-glyceriue  claim  . 
Bath  District  claim  . . . 

Paragon  claim 

Other  Bath  claim 

Damascus  claim 

Mountain  Gate  claim  . . 

Iowa  Hill  claim . . ._ 

Wisconsin  Hill  claim.. 


96 
96 
96 
96 
97 
97 
97 
98 
99 
99 
100 
100 


INDEX. 


669 


Plnocr  comity— CoutiiiuoJ.  Vago. 

Kouch  Hill  claim 1 00 

Morning  Star  rliiiiu 101 

Bird  Flat  and  Lebanon  claim 101 

Gold  Run  oUiiin 101 

Gravol  at  Gold  nm 101 

Outlet 101 

Facilities  for  pipiug lO'J 

Cufioii  creek 102 

■\VaUr iO-2 

Squire's  Cailon  claims 102 

Canon  Creek  claims 102 

Goosling  Uavino  claims 10:i 

Lower  Cailon  Creek  claims 103 

Gold  Ruu  cailou 103 

Potato  ravine 104 

Indiana  cement  mill 104 

Indiana  Cation  claims 104 

Jloody's  tail  slnico .' 104 

Kindi'r's  tail  sluice lO'l 

Iloskiu's  tail  sluico 105 

Dutch  flat 105 

Pti(T?nix  mine 105 

American  mino 106 

Buckeve  mino 106 

Dutcirriat  and  Queen  City  mine 106 

Bear  River  and  Teaff  mino 106 

Boston,  Gray  Eagle,  and  Yankee  claims 106 

Drift  claims 106 

Jlill  claims 107 

Other  claims 107 

TealTs  tall  sluice 107 

Drainage  of  Bear  river 107 

South  Placer  quartz  regulations 108 

Canada  Hill  and  Lone  Star  regulations 103 

Green  Emigrant  mine 108 

New  York  and  Empire  mino 109 

Si'hnable  mino 1 00 

^Valter  and  St.  Lawrence  mine 109 

Golden  Rule  mine 109 

Stewart's  Flat  mine 110 

Damascus  mine 110 

Red  Stone  mine 110 

Canada  Hill  mine 110 

Harpeuding  mino 110 

SECTION  IX. 

Xerada  oonnty Ill 

Sottlement 1)3 

Phcer  mining 116 

Hydraulic  mining 119 

Bfrchville 121 

French  Coral  mine 121 

Moore's  Flat  mine 121 

Cement  mining 129 

Extent  of  the  Placer  mines 123 

Cbalk  Mountain  range 126 

Quartz  raining 128 

Gra>s  Valley  district 129 

Eureka  m'no 130 

Golden  Hill  mino 130 

Massachusetts  Hill  mine ]3l 

Ophir  Hill  mine 131 

North  Star  mine ]31 

Allison  Ranch  lode 131 

Nevada  quartz  district 132 

Gold  Tunnel  mine 132 

Illinois  and  California  claimB 133 

Banner  mine ]  33 

Pittsburg  mine 133 

Sogg's  mino 134 

Sneath  and  Clay  mine ]34 

Lecoinpton  mine 134 

Eureka  quartz  district 135 

Tecumsch  raillg 13G 

Grizzly  lode 136 

Meadow  Lake  district 136 

U.  S.  Grant  mino 137 

SECTION  X. 

Sierra  oonnty 137 

Brandy  City 138 

St.  Louis  and  neighboring  towns 138 

Monistown  mine 139 

Minnesota  mine 139 

Live  Yankee  claim 140 


Siorra  oonnty— Continued.  Page. 

Highland  and  Masonic  mine 140 

Monfecristo  mino 140 

Deadwood  mino .  140 

Fur  Cap,  Sebastopol,  and  Grizzly  mines 141 

Gold  Canon  mino 141 

Fashion  claim 141 

Sierra  claim 141 

Howlaud  Flat  mino 142 

Snow  at  Howlaud  flat 142 

Union  claim 143 

Other  claims 143 

Quartz  in  Sierra  county 144 

Sierra  Butte  mino I45 

Independene(3  mine 140 

Keystone  mino 146 

Primrose  mine 147 

Mines  near  Sierra  Butte 147 

Mines  near  Alleghany  and  Minnesota 147 

Minos  near  Dowuieville 148 

SECTION  XI, 

Ynba  oonnty 143 

Campton's,  Brown's  and  Hansonvillo 148 

Yuba  river 143 

Sucker  Flat  channel 148 

Timbuctoo  mino 149 

Sucker  Flat  claims 149 

Smartsville  Blue  Gravel  mine 150 

Sicard  flat 151 

Brown's  valley 152 

Jetfersou  mino 152 

Pennsylvania  mines 153 

Other  quartz  mines 154 

Brown's  Valley  quartz  regulations 155 

Empire  quartz  regulations 156 

SECTION  XII. 

Bntte  county 157 

Butte  Table  mountain 157 

Cherokee  mino 157 

Oregon  Gulch  mine 158 

Cherokee  Blue  Gravel  claim 159 

Eureka  claim 159 

Cherokee  claim 160 

Diamonds 160 

Morris,  Nimshew,  and  Kimshew 160 

Bangor 160 

Cement  barrel ICl 

Wyandotte 161 

Forbestown 161 

Jloorevillo  and  Evansvillo 102 

Bangor  quartz  regulations 1C2 

Forbestown  mining  regulations 162 

Nisbot  quartz  mine 163 

Spring  Valley  mino 163 

Other  quartz  mines 163 

SECTION  xin. 

PInmas  oonnty lt34 

Beckwourth's  Pass 164 

Conly  and  tiowell's  claim 164 

Secret  diggings 166 

Port  Wino 1 06 

Little  Grass  valley 166 

Saw  Pit  flat 107 

Eureka  mine 167 

Mammon. h  mine 108 

Seventy-si.x  mine 108 

Crescent  mino 108 

Whitney  mino 109 

Golden  Gate  mine 109 

Dixey  mills 109 

Bullfrog  mine 170 

Light  and  Callahan  mino 170 

Premium  and  Sparks  uiiuo 170 

Indian  Valley  mine 1~0 

Greenville  mino 170 

SECTION  XIV. 

Alpine  oonnty 170 

Altitude,  eliuiate • 170 

Lakes,  metalliferous  reins 171 


670 


INDEX. 


Alpine  coonty— Continued.  Page. 

Tunnelling,  mining 171 

Mountains,  reduction  of  ores 172 

Wood  and  water 172 

SECTION  XV. 

Lassen  connty -. 173- 

Streams,  stock-raising,  hot  springs 173 

Auriferous  quartz 174 

SECTION  XVI. 

Stanislaus  oonnty 174 

Fresno  county 174 

Tulare  county 174 

Mercetle  county 174 

San  Joaquin 175 

SECTION  xvn. 

Inyo  county 175 

I » weu's  valley 175 

Population,  towns 176 

Mills,  roads 176 

Mining  districts 177 

SECTION  xvin. 

Mono  county 177 

Climate 177 

Water-power,  forests 178 

Claims 179 

SECTION  XIX, 

Minings  ditches 179 

Expensive  construction  / 180 

Bad  engineering 180 

High  flumes 180 

Unprofitable  in vestmenta 180 

Decline  in  value 181 

Supply  of  water 181 

Small  ditches 181 

Flumes 181 

Iron  pipe 182 

Ditch  law 182 

Conflict  between  ditchers  and  miners 183 

Proposed  grant  of  land 183 

Measurement  of  water 184 

Eureka  Lake  and  Yuba  Canal  Companies. ..  184 

French  Coral  ditches 193 

Tuolumne  ditches 193 

Phoenix  ditches 194 

Murphy's  ditches .  195 

Mokelumne  ditches 195 

Amador  il  itches 195 

Eureka  ditches 195 

Indian  Diggings  ditches 196 

Natorna  diiches  196 

South  Fork  ditches 196  i 

Pilot  Creik  ditches 197 

JlicUigau  Flat  ditches 197 

Colonia  ditches 197 

Bear  Kiver  ditches 198 

Michigan  BlufF  ditches 198 

Dutch  Flat  ditches 198 

South  Yuba  ditches 198 

Tiuckce  ditches 19J 

Sears  ditches 199 

Nevada  Ueservoir  ditches 199 

Excelsior  ditch 199 

Forbestuwu  ditch 200 

Oroville  ditch 200 

Table  of  ctiuals  and  water  ditches 200 

SECTION  XX. 

jniscellaneous  minerals  of  Pacific 

coast 207 

Copper 207 

New  discoveries 2u9 

Recent  development  of  the  copper  mines 211 

Coppcropolis  mines 211 

Keystone  mines 212 

OtUer  Coppcropolis  mines 212 

Napoleon  mines 212 

Campo  Seco  mutes 212 


Miscellaneous  minerals— Continued.    Pngn. 

Lancha  Plana  mines 213 

Copper  mines  in  Amador  county 213 

Copper  mines  in  Mariposa  county 213 

Buchanan  mine 213 

Copper  mines  in  San  Luis  Obispo  county 214 

Copper  mines  in  Los  Angeles  county 214 

Copper  mines  in  Plumas  county 214 

Copper  mines  in  Del  Norte  county 214 

Copper  mines  in  Contra  Costa  county 214 

Copper  mines  in  Nevada  county 214 

Other  California  copper  mines 215 

Oregon  copper  mines 215 

Lower  California  copper  mines 215 

Nevada  copper  mines 215 

Peavine  copper  mines 216 

Arizona  copper  mines 216 

Great  Central  copper  mines 216 

Planet  copper  mines 216 

Mineral  Hill  copper  mines „.  217 

Copper  fmelting  works 218 

Importation  of  metallic  sopper 218 

Manufacture  of  sulphate  of  copper 219 

Iron 219 

First  iron  smelting  works  on  the  Pacific 219 

Iron  in  California 222 

Specular  iron  ore 222 

Magnetic  iron  ore _ 223 

Hematite  ores  of  iron 224 

Chromic  iron  ores 224 

Titanic  iron  ores 225 

Mixed  iron  ores 225 

Nevada  iron  ores 225 

Utah  iron  ores 225 

Arizona  iron  ores 225 

Concluding  remarks  on  ores 226 

Consumption  of  iron  in  CaUfornia 226 

Iron  foundries  in  San  Francisco 226 

Imports  of  iron  into  San  Francisco  in  18ti6-'C7 .  228 
Export8ofironfromSanFranciscoinl8t)6-'67.  228 

Coal 228 

New  discoveries  in  California 231 

Mount  Diablo  coal  mines 232 

Black  Diamond  coal  mines 233 

Pittsburg  railroad 234 

Teutonia  coal  mines 235 

Union  coal  mines 235 

Independent  coal  mines 2.35 

Eureka  coal  mines 235 

Central  coal  mines 235 

Pacific  coal  mines 236 

Labor,  wages.  &c 2:30 

Coal  mines  of  Oregon 237 

Coos  Bay  coal 237 

Coal  in  Washington  Territory 2.38 

Tuca  Straits  coal  mines 238 

Other  coal  mines  in  Washington  Territory. ..  24p 

Coal  in  Nevada 240 

Coal  in  Utah 240 

Vancouver  Island  mines 240 

Concluding  remarks 240 

Marble,  limestone,  &c 241 

Indian  diggings 243 

Colfax  quarries 243 

Other  localities  where  marble  has  been  found.  244 

Limestone  and  lime 244 

Sulphate  of  lime 244 

Dolomite  or  magnesian  limestone 245 

Hydraulic  limestone. 245 

Oregon  limestone 246 

Nevada  limestone 247 

Building  materials 247 

Granite 247 

Sandstone 248 

Bricks 248 

Roofiug  slates 249 

Steatite  or  soapstone 249 

Clays 250 

Kaolin 250 

Pipeclay 251 

Coloring  earths 251 

Sands 251 

Plumbago  or  black  lead 252 

Eureka  plumbago  mine 252 

The  Mine 252 

Processes  for  cleaning  the  ore 252 

Separating  works 253 

Costs  of  production 253 


INDEX. 


671 


MlscolInn<>onH  niincrnlH— Coutinucd.    Page. 

Othi'i-  (lt'^H)^5itH  of  graphite U53 

Importuuco  of  grupbite 254 

Sal t 25  J 

Salt  ill  Cnliforniu 254 

Salt  ill  Oregon 255 

Salt  ill  Nf  viida 256 

Salt  ill  Arizona 256 

Salt  in  Utah 256 

AV illamet to  salt  works 256 

CanufD  Island  Halt 256 

Price  of  oalt 256 

Aspbaltuni 256 

Petroleum -58 

Composition  of  California  coal  oil 259 

Manufacture  of  coal  oil 261 

Mode  of  occurrence 26-2 

Quii'ksilver 263 

Redinpton  mine 2(i4 

New  Idria  mine 264 

Borax 264 

Sulphur 266 

SECTION  XXL 

Asrrionltnral  resources  of  Callfor- 

uia 2G6 

Exports  of  California  from  1860  to  1867 271 

Climate  of  California 275 

Principal  routes  through  California 280 

Distances,  fares,  and  freights 281 

SECTION  XXII. 

General  summary 299 

Area  of  California 289 

Arable  lands 289 

Precious  metals 291 

Shipments  of  treasure 292 

Total  deposits  and  coinage 298 


NEVADA. 

SECTION  I. 

Topofiraphy.  physical  features,  and 
natural  productions 299 

System  of  mountains 299 

Plains  and  valleys 300 

Sinks,  sloughs,  and  lakes 301 

Alkali  flats  and  mud  lakes 304 

Rivers  and  streams 304 

Springs  of  Kevada 306 

Salt  beds 3U9 

SECTION  II. 

Woodlands,  coal,  Ac 313 

Coal 312 

Whitman  coal  mines 312 

Other  discoveries :n3 

Crystal  Peak 315 

SECTION  in. 

Copper 316 

I'ea vine  district 316 

Walker  River  copper  region 317 

SECTION  IV. 

Hetcorology,  botany,  zoolog^y,  S:c  ..  319 

SECTION  V. 

Social,  industrial,  and  educational 


prog'ress . 


321 


SECTION  VI. 


Dong^las  county 320 

Carson  valley 322 

Timber  lands 322 

Agriculture 323 

Cupriferous  lodes 323  j 


SECTION  VU. 

Page. 

Ornisby  county 324 

Population 324 

Mountains 324 

Streams  and  wood  lands 324 

Mineral  products 32.5 

SECTION  vin. 

Washoe  county 325 

Valleys 325 

Agricultural  resources 32t» 

Mineral  deposits 327 

SECTION  IX. 

Storey  county 327 

Mining  excitements 328 

Quartz  mills 328 

Population 323 

SECTION  X. 

Liyon  county 328 

Ledges 328 

Quartz  mills 32i) 

SECTION  XI. 

Roop  county 329 

Surprise  valley 329 

Climate  .  .* 3:i0 

Population 330 

Warm  springs 330 

SECTION  XII. 

Mumboldt  county 330 

Alkali  lakes 330 

Population 330 

Arable  laud 331 

Cereals 331 

Towns 33 1 

Humboldt  canal 33 1 

Mills 331 

Smelting  establishments 331 

Mining 332 

SECTION  xni. 

Churchill  county 333 

Population 333 

Salt  beds 333 

Hot  springs 333 

Desert  district 334 

Mining  operations 334 

SECTION  XIV. 

Esmeralda  county 334 

Mineral  productions 334 

Populatiiin 335 

Agricultural  resources 333 

Afills 335 

Jliniug 336 

Towns 336 

Argentiferous  veins 337 

Columbus  district 337 

Salt  deposits 338 

Silver  Peak  district 333 

SECTION  XV. 

Eincoln  county 3.39 

Discovery  of  silver 339 

Mineral  deposits 3-10 

Woodlands 340 

Climate 340 

Puhranagat  valley 340 

SECTION  XVI. 

TheComstock  lo<le 341 

Character  of  lode 34 1 

Length  of  lode 341 

Enclosing  rocks ..^,..j^  iU 


672 


INDEX. 


Tbe  Comstock  lode— Continued.  Page. 

West  wall 342 

Wirlthot  lode 342 

Filling  of  the  vein 342 

Bonanzas 343 

Ores 343 

Develo)iments  oa  the  lode 343 

Mode  of  mining : 344 

Tunnels  and  drifts 345 

Pumps 348 

Amount  of  ore  raised  from  the  mines 349 

Yield  of  ore  per  ton 349 

Cost  of  mining  per  ton 351 

Process  of  reduction 361 

Cost  of  reduction 362 

Percentage  of  yield  and  loss 364 

Hale  and  Xorcross  mine 365 

Gould  and  Curry  mine 366 

Concentration 366 

SECTION  xvn, 

Tlel<l  of  mines,  net  profits,  &c 367 

Products  of  principal  mines 367 

Costs  and  losses  on  silver  mining 370 

Bullion  product  of  the  Comstock  lode 380 

Assay  offices 380 

Stage  routes  centring  at  Virginia  City 380 

Stage  routes  centring  at  Carson  City 381 

SECTION  x\aii. 

Virginia  and  adjacent  districts 381 

Facilities  for  obtaining  fuel 381 

Coal 381 

Consumption  of  firewood  and  lumber 382 

Other  mineral  deposits 382 

Number    of  mining    locations    claimed   and 

opened 383 

Cost  of  materials 383 

Population  of  towns 384 

Mode  and  cost  of  living 384 

Pacific  railroad  and  its  branches 385 

SECTION  XIX. 

Sntro  tnnnel 387 

Yield  of  bullion 387 

Valenciana  mine 388 

English  Real  Del  Monte  Company 388 

Abandonment  of  the  mine 390 

Mining  in  Europe 390 

Mining  in  CTcrmany 390 

Freiberg  district 391 

Ernst  August  tunnel 391 

Description  of  tunnel 391 

Necessity  of  a  tunnel  to  the  Comstock  lode..  391 

Continuity  of  the  Comstock  lode 391 

Sutro  tunnel 392 

Time  required  to  finish  tunnel 394 

SECTION  XX. 

Enstern  Nevada 394 

Kecso  River  district 396 

Mode  of  working 397 

Description  of  ores 397 

Sherman  shaft 309 

The  Timoke 400 

Plymouth  Silver  Mining  Company 400 

Savage  and  other  mines 400 

Mills 401 

Official  returns 403 

Amador  district 408 

Mount  Hope  and  other  districts 408 

Cortez  district 408 

Newark  district 410 

>V'hito  Pine  district 411 

Diamond  district 411 

Eureka  district 411 

Gold  Caiion  district 411 

Kinsley  district.. 411 

Yreka  district 412 

Battle  Mountain  district 412 

Ravenswood  district 413 

Big  Creek  district 413 

Washington  disti-ict 413 

Morysviile  district 413 


Eastern  Bfevada— Continued.  Page. 

Smoky  valley 413 

Toyabee  mountains 413 

Santa  Fe  district 414 

Bunker  Hill  and  Summit  district 414 

Blue  Springs  district 414 

Smoky  Valley  salt  field 414 

North  Twin  Kiver  district 414 

Twin  river 415 

McDonald  mine 417 

South  Twin  River  district 418 

Hot  Springs  district 418 

El  Dorado  district 418 

Peaviue  district 418 

Smoky  valley 418 

San  Antonio  district 418 

Silver  Peak  district 419 

Red  Mountain  district 419 

Palmetto  district 419 

Lida  district 419 

Edmonton  district 419 

Columbus  district 419 

Volcano  district 419 

Clarendon  district 419 

Paradise  district 419 

Pilot  district 419 

Maramouth  district 419 

Union  district 419 

JNorth  Union  district 419 

New  Pass  district 420 

Silver  Bend  district 420 

Philadelphia  district 420 

Official  returns 423 

Northumberland  district 423 

Danville  district 423 

Hercules  Gate  district 424 

Hot  Creek  district 424 

Reveille  district 425 

Empire  district 425 

Milk  Springs  district 425 

Morey  district 425 

Phranagat  district .' 426 

Colorado  district 429 

Tuscarora  district 429* 

Catalogue  of  minerals 430 

SECTION  XXI. 

The  overland  telegraph 4.U 

History  of  its  construction 432 

Completion 433 

First  message 434 

System  of  working 435 

Breaks  in  lino 436 

Effects  of  climate 437 

Natural  obstacles " 438 

Difficulties 439 

Telegraphic  laws 440 

Connections  ;  table  of  distances 441 

ARIZONA. 

SECTION  I. 

General  featnres  of  country 443 

Mountain  ranges 443 

Mining  districts 4.13 

SECTION  II. 

Southern  Arizona 443 

Colorado  mine.... 444 

Santa  Rita  mine 445 

Sopori 447 

Mowry  mines 447 

Olive  mines 448 

San  Antonio  mines 448 

Cababi  mines 449 

Sierriti  miles 449 

Ajo  mines 449 

Santa  Rosa  mines 450 

Apache  Pass 450 

Mines  near  Tucson 4oO 

Lee's  mine 4oO 

La  Par  mine    joO 

Spangler  mine 450 

San  I'edro  lodes « 450 

^Maricopa  lodes '^T^ 

General  remarks , ^S-*- 


INDEX. 


673 


SECTION  UI. 

Page. 

ColoiTtilo  ri\'er 4r)a 

Silvir  district 452 

Custlo  Dome 45-2 

Wfiiver  flistrict 4r>3 

Coustantin  mine 455 

tJonqufst  mine 455 

Ciiio  mini" 455 

I'iciU-lio  mine 455 

Pouch  Hloom  mine 455 

Williams  Fork 450 

Miucral  Hill 457 

San  Francisco  district 457 

Sacrnmento  district 4G0 

Wauba  Vuma  district 4G1 

General  remarks ^ . . .  461 

SECTION  IV. 

CentiT«l  Arizona 466 

Prescott  region 467 

Tonto  plateau 467 

Sierra  Prieta 468 

Granite  mountain , 468 

S I ructure  of  the  range 468 

'I'imbor  of  SieiTa  Prieta. 46!) 

Water  system  of  Sierra  Prieta 470 

Grass  plains  near  Prescott 470 

Skull  valley 471 

Lynx  creek 474 

Sterhng  mine 475 

Montgomery  mine 475 

Olten  mine 475 

Gnadaloupe  mine 475 

Big  Bug  minR 476 

Ticonderoga  mine 477 

Chapparal  mine 477 

Dividend  mine 477 

Turkey  creek 477 

Bradshaw  district 477 

Piuoflat 477 

AValnut  grove 477 

Vulture  mine 477 

General  remarks 478 

UTAH. 

SECTION  I. 

OonCTal  fratnros 483 

Wasatch  mountains 482 

Colorado  river 482 

Salt  lake 482 

Utah  lake 483 

Salt  Lake  City 483 

Irrigation 484 

SECTION  n. 

Minos  and  mining 484 

Minersville 484 

Rush  Valley  district 484 

Coal 484 

Pacific  railroad 485 

Iron 485 

Salt 485 

Giineral  conclusions 486 

MOXTAXA. 

.SECTION  I. 

Area  and  popniation 487 

Mountains 487 

•Vegetable  products 489 

Timber 491 

Clunate 491 

Navigable  vraters 492 

Flint  creek 494 

Deer  Lodge  valley 494 

Town  of  Cottonwood 494 

SECTION  n. 

Mines  and  systems  of  mining 496 

Bannock  placers 498 

Bannock  quartz  * 498 

43 


Minos.  Ae.— Continued.  Page. 

Dakota  lode li);! 

Argenta  district .\\\.\ 

Summit  district .MM 

Hot  Springs  district 501 

Helena  mines 5')l 

Montana  bar 503 

Diamond  bar 503 

Highland  district 5113 

Comstoek .'}().■) 

Flint  creek 505 

Jefferfon  basin .505 

liannock  City 506 

Stinkiug  Water 506 

Alder  gulch 50(J 

Summit  City 509 

Nevada 509 

Valley  of  the  Stinking  Water .509 

Gallatin  valley 509 

Other  valleys  and  placers 510 

Helena 510 

Bar  mining 510 

Confederate  gulch 510 

IDAHO. 

SECTION  I. 

Area  and  popnlation 512 

Jlouutains 512 

Rivers 513 

Shoshone  falls 513 

Salmon  falls 514 

Valley  of  the  Snake 514 

Sage  brush 514 

Boise  basin 514 

Towns 516 

SECTION  n. 

Mines,  districts,  and  system  of  min- 
ing    517 

Salmon  River  district 518 

Lemhi  mines 518 

Boise  Basin  district 518 

Rocky  Bar  district 520 

Atlanta  and  Yuba  district 520 

Owyhee  mines 522 

Oro  Fino  mines 522 

Boormau  mines 523 

Flint  district .528 

Climate 528 

Quartz  mills 529 

Prospecting  for  mines 530 

General  remarks 532 

Product  of  Idaho 534 

WASHINGTON  TEKKITOUY. 

SECTION  I. 

Geographical  memoir 537 

Cascade  mountains 537 

Columbia  river 538 

Navigability  of  the  Columbia 539 

Natural  divisions 539 

Bays  and  harbors 541 

Rivers  emptying  into  Puget  sound 541 

Rivers  and  bays  on  the  Pacific  coast 544 

Gray's  harbor 545 

Shoal-water  bay  and  the  Willopah  valley 546 

'I'ributaries  to  the  Lower  Columbia 546 

Olympic  or  Coast  range  of  mountains 547 

Climate  of  Western  Washington .547 

Central  Washington 550 

Climate  of  Central  Washington 5.53 

Kastern  Washington 534 

Climate  of  Kastern  Washington 559 

Counties  of  Washington  Territory 560 

SECTION  II. 

Mineral  resources 567 

Coal 568 

Bellingham  Bay  mines 568 

Stoluauamah  coal 571 

Skookum  Chuck  coal  fields 571 

Clallam  Bay  mines 571 


674 


INDEX. 


Mincj'al  rewoMirces — Contiuned.  Page. 

SeattU;  iiiiuea .' ,   573 

Lake  Wasbiugtou  coal  fields 57-^ 

Ship  building 573 

Puget  sound  and  the  northern  fislusries 574 


©KE<3©5f. 

SECTION  I. 

Boundaries,  su1t>4llivisfon<«,  naviga- 
ble rivers,  towns,  A-c 57fi 

Subdivisions 576 

Navigable  rivers 578 

Portland 580 

SECTION  II. 

Ag'rienlturc 582 

Miscellaneous  resources 583 

SECTION  III. 

Mineral  resonrf  es 590 

Willow  Creek  mines 590 

Quartz  lodes 592 

Iron  interest 592 

AliASKA. 

Mineral  resources 597 

Timber 597  \ 

Importance  of  the  acquisition 597 

Mr.  Sc  ward 598 

Bibliography  of  Alaska 598 


CJEJTEElAIi  OBSER'VATIO:VS  ©N  THE 
B'At'filFIlC  SI.©PE:  PRWGMESS  HF 
SETU'^iEJIENT;  fiMMBOKATION  AND 
a,AiJ4>M. 

SECTION  I. 

Influonec  of  niaiiBaaa-  on  other   in- 
terests    CC5 

Cost  of  Itibor  and  expenses  of  living 607 

"Wages  generally  and  demand  for  labor 610 


SECTION  n. 

Page. 
General  considerations  on  the  pre- 
eiOKS  metals 615 

Why  gold  and  silver  are  used  for  money 615 

Quantity  of  the  precious  metals  in   Greece 

and  Home 616 

Principal  epochs  in  the  production  of  pr«- 

cious  metals 616 

Stock  of  precious  metals 619 

The  drain  of  silver  to  Asia • 621 

A  great  increase  of  production  probable 623 

Relative  value  of  gold  and  silver G23 

How  individuals  are  enriched  by  mining 627 

How  nations  .we  enriched  by  mining 627 

How  the  precious  metals  fall  in  value 028 

Influence   of   increased    production   on    na- 
tional debts 628 

Foreign  States  and  Territories 630 

Lower  California 630 

Mexico 639 

Sinaloa 647 

Chihuahua 648 

Sontli  America 649 

Peru 649 

Bo'ivia 649 

Chili 6.50 

Brazil 651 

BrltisSi  Possessions 651 

British  Columbia 651 

Australia 652 

Stations  of  Victoria 6.';2 

New  South  Wales 653 

New  Zealand 65:! 

Bnssian  Possessions 654 

Siberia 654 

Total  production  of  gold  and  silver  in  1867 655 

APPEXDIS. 

Instnictinus  from  the  Commissioner  of  the  Gen- 
eral Laud  Office  to  the  registers  and  receivers.  656 

Supplementary  instructions 658 

Abstract  of  duties  .' 658 

Legislation  in  regard  to  mineral  interests 659 

Importance  of  a  national  .school  of  mines 659 

Opinions  of  eminent  public  men 663 

Mr.  Stewart's  bill 665 


A     SKETCH 

OF 

THE  SETTLEMENT  AND  EXPLORATION  OF 
LOWER   CALIFORNIA. 


i 

4 


A   SKETCH 


SETTLEMENT   AND    EXPLORATION 


LOWER  CALIFORNIA. 


By  J.  ROSS  BROWNE. 


SAK  FRANCISCO: 
II.    II.    BANCROFT    AND    COMPANY. 

18G9. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1868,  by 

D.  APPLETON  &  COMPANY, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  fbr  the  Southern  District  of 

New  York. 


OOIsTTEI^TS 


Introduction, 


PAGE 
.      5 


CHAPTER  I. 


First  Mention  and  Names  of  California, 
The  Gulf  of  California— its  Titles, 
lis  Ocean  Lines,  Coasts,  and  Northern  Limits, 
The  Islands  of  the  Ocean  and  Gulf  Coasts,  . 

CHAPTER  11. 

The  Harbors,  Bays,  and  Ports  of  the  Penin- 
sula,   ...... 

Profrress  of  Discovery  and  Exploration— the 
Extra-Christian  World  divided  between 
Spain  and  Portn<ral,      .... 

Circnnina\-i^ation  oT  the  Earth— what  was  be- 
lieved Square  is  sho\vn  to  be  Round, 

The  Great  South  Sea  also  possessed  by  Spain,  . 

In  search  of  the  Spice  Islanda  of  Magellan — 
Voyaje  from  Spain  by  Garcia  Loyasa  in  152,1, 

Cortezsends  Saavedra  to  find  the  Spice  Islands, 

CHAPTER  in. 

First  Yoyasre  ordered  by  Cortez  to  find  the 
Countries  of  Pearls  and  Gold, 

Second  Voyagre  ordered  by  Cortez  to  find  the 
Island  of  California,  rich  in  Gold  and  Pre- 
cious Stones,  ..... 

Third  Voyage  ordered  by  Cortez, 

Fourth  Voyage  ordered  by  Cortez,  in  which  he 
takes  command,       .... 

The  Fifth  and  Last  Voyage  ordered  by  Cortez— 
the  Seven  Cities, "and  the  Grand  Quivira, 
Cibola,  and  TotDiitcac,  north  of  the  Gila— 
King  Tatarax  with  Crozier  and  long  Beard, 
hoary  and  rich.  .... 

Discovery  of  the  River  Colorado,  and  confirma- 
tion made  that  California  was  a  Peninsula 
and  not  an  Island— no  rich  Cities  or  Peoples 
found,  ..... 

Cortez  returns  to  Spain— the  great  Conquista- 
dor dies  an  humble  Christian  Sinner, 

Voyages  of  Villalobos  and  Rodriguez  Cabrillo — 
Discovery  of  Alta  California, 

CH^VPTER  IV. 

Further  Voyages  and  Explorations  after  154.3 
and  to  1588,        ..... 

The  Discoveries  of  Juan  de  Fuca— they  are  de- 
nied as  apocryphal  for  over  200  years— the 
Straits  of  Annian— De  Fuca's  identity  pro- 
ven in  1854,   ..... 

The  First  and  Second  Voyages  of  Sebastian 
Viscaino,  ..... 

CHAPTER  V. 

Lower  California  Adventures  from  1603  to  1700 
— ardent  Pursuit  of  Pearls,  .  .         27 

CHAPTER  VI. 

The  Explorations  and  Accounts  of  the  Coast 
Lines  from  1700  to  1770— Voyages  of  the 
Jesuits,    .  .  .  .  .  .31 


20 


23 


CHrVPTER  \TI. 

English  and  French  Notices  of  Lower  California 
from  1700-1772— William  Dampier  and  Rob- 
inson Crusoe  make  their  appearance  iu  Cali- 
fornia, ..... 

Notices  of  the  Coasts  of  Lower  Califomia  from 
1725-1800— Spanish  Pilot-Book  from  Manil- 
la to  Acapulco  ante  1740— the  Admiral  of 
the  Galleons— Voyages  of  Anson,  Malaspi- 
na,  and  others,  . 

CHAPTER  \T.U. 

Notices  of  Voyages  from  1800  to  1846  touching 
the  Peninsiila  —  Boston  Voyage  of  1808 
makes  a  Mint  of  Money,    . 

CHAPTER  IX. 

The  new  Grant  of  Colonization  to  American 
Cohmists — Extent  in  square  miles  and  acres 
of  this  Grant— also  of  Califomia  and  other 
Pacific  States,    ..... 

The  jrreat  Stores  of  Fish,  Shells,  Cetacea,  Pho- 
cidea,  and  other  Marine  Animals  of  the 
California  Peninsula, 

The  Reduction  and  Settlement  of  the  Interior 
of  the  great  American  Peninsula  from  1700 
to  1800— the  Dates  and  Foundations  of  the 
Jesuit,  Franciscan,  and  Dominican  Mis- 
sions, ..... 

Travellinsr  Distances  by  the  Old  Spanish  Mis- 
sion TRoad,  from  Cape  San  Lucas  to  San 
Diego,     ...... 


CHAPTER  X. 

The  Past  and  Present  Population  of  Old  Cali- 
fornia, ..... 

The  Indian  Tribes  and  Languages  of  the  Penin- 
sula,       ...... 

The  Political  Changes  and  Status— the  Country 
divided  into  Miinicipalitics  after  1859,    . 

The  True  and  the  Approximate  Latitudes  and 
Longitudes  of  Lower  Califomia  Positions, 
commencing  at  the  Mouth  of  the  Colorado 
J^iver,      ...... 

The  Climate  and  Country  of  the  California  Pen- 
insula—Rains without  Clouds,     . 

Its  curious  Fossils  and  valuable  Minerals, 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Mineral  Waters— Hot  Springs- the  curious  Ver- 
milion-colored Caustic  Waters  of  the  Gulf- 
heads,  ..... 

Some  of  the  strange  Beasts  and  Fishes  of  the 
Peninsula  WafiTs — Mennaids  and  Devil- 
fishes-Great Stores  of  Whales  and  Seals— 
North-Pacific  Whale-fishery  in  IbtiO, 

The  Shell-fisheries- Aiilcmes  and  Pearls— Cora- 
lincs— the  Edible  Oyster, 

The  Guano  Deposits  of  the  Ocean  and  Gulf 
Shores,    .  .  .  . 


35 


41 


47 


4S 


49 


53 


5G 


69 


64 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  Xn. 

The  Native  and  Domesticated  Animals— Moun- 
tain Sheep  and  Goats,        ...         65 

The  Native  and  Introduced  Fruits,  Grains,  and 
Vegetables  —Forest-Trees  —  no  History  of    , 
its  Botany  known,        .  .  .  .  Bd 

The  Country  on  the  Pacific  Coast  between  Vis- 
caiuo  Bay  and  San  Die^o — an  American 
Fur-trapper's  Account  of  It  in  1827,        .         67 

Walker's  Expedition  to  Lower  California,        .    68 

The  highest  Elevations  of  the  Peninsula — Moun- 
tain-lake and  the  Snow-Peaks,    .  .  68 

The  Pious  Fund  of  California— Dried  up  in 
1867— a  California  Bishopric  established  in 
1836 — the  new  Bishop  an-ives  at  San  Diego 
in  1841— a  Land  Grant  in  Alta  California  to 
endow  a  College  for  the  two  Califomias,         69 

A  California  Bishopric  for  the  two  Califomias 
made  in  1836 — the  new  Bishop  arrives  in 
1S41— a  Land  Grant  in  Alta  California  to 
endow  a  College  for  the  Bishopric  issued 
in  1844 70 

The  Destroyed  Missions  of  the  Colorado  in 
1782, 71 

The  Chinese  as  Laborers  in  Lower  California,      71 

CHAPTER  Xin. 

The  Railroad  Lines  to  connect  San.Francisco 
with  Lower  California.      ...  73 

Scraps  and  Fragments  of  Baja  California  Nota- 
bilia,        .  .  .  .  .  .73 

The  Gates  to  an  overilowino;  Commerce— im- 
mense Mineral  Wealth  of  the  Colorado  Ba- 


PAGB 

Bin  and  the  Countries  of  the  Gulf  of  Cali- 
fornia—Sublime Scenery  of  the  Gulf  Lines 
— Wonderful  Agricultural  Resources  of  this 
Region— Area  and  Population,    .  .         75 


The  Lower  California  Company, 

Exploration  of  Lower  California, 

Report  of  Captain  C.  M.  Scammon,  of  the 
U.  S.  Revenue  Service,  on  the  West 
Coast  of  Lower  California, 

Journal  of  the  Expedition  of  Mr.  J.  D. 
Hawks  and  Party,  through  the  Inte- 
rior OP  the  Peninsula  op  Lower  Cali- 
fornia, from  San  Domingo  to  San  Diego, 

Report  of  Dr.  John  A.  Veatch,  on  Ceeeos 
OR  Cedros  Island, 

Extracts  from  a  History  of  Old  ob  Lower 
California,      .  .  .  .  . 

Report  on  Fruit-Trees  op  Lower  Califob- 

NIA,   .  .  . 

Washington  Territory, 

Historical  Sketch  of  Nevada,  including 
Boundaeies,  Population,  Aboriginal  In- 
habitants, Early  Settlements,  etc., 

The  Discovery  of  Gold  in  California, 

Altitudes  of  the  Principal  Points  on  the 
Pacific  Slope,  .... 


83 
123 

132 

143 

155 

173 
175 

185 
199 

199 


IIISTOEICAL  SUMMAEY  OF  LOWER  CxVLIFORNIA, 
FROM  ITS  DISCOVERY  IN  1532  TO  18G7. 


By  ALEXAKDER  S.  TAYLOR, 

Author  of  the  "  Biblio2;rafia  Californica  cntre  1544-1S6T,"  "  The  Indianolojry  of  California,"  etc. ;  Hon. 

Mem.  of  the  California  AcadL'tny  of  {sciences  and  of  the  Mercantile  Lil)rary  of  Sau  Fran'cisco, 

and  late  Clerk  of  the  United  States  District  Court  at  Monterey. 


INTRODUCTION. 

There  is  no  such  thing  in  existence  as  a  present  and  past  history  of  the 
California  Peninsula,  which  may  he  said  to  have  heeu  the  mother  of  the  State 
of  Cahfornia.  The  missionary  histories  prior  to  1700  are  well  as  far  as  they  go, 
but  are  full  of  omissions,  mistakes,  grave  errors  of  fact,  and  innumerable  errors  of 
type,  all  of  which  have  been  copied  in  every  publication  issued  down  to  the 
present  day,  and  making  "  confusion  worse  confounded."  This  little  work  is  not 
desio-ned  as  a  serious  history,  the  printed  materials  for  which  would  take  years 
to  digest  and  arrange,  and  the  consulting  of  immense  numbers  of  manuscripts  in 
California,  Mexico,  and  Spain,  kept  secret,  from  government  motives,  which 
alone  wottld  occupy  a  lifetime.  The  sketch  is  intended  as  an  historical /)>'6'c/s 
or  procession  of  events  from  the  past  to  the  present  times,  which  has  never 
been  made  before — a  skeleton  guide  collated,  compared,  and  deraigned  from  the 
most  authentic  and  reliable  sources,  and  the  chapters  and  materials  are  con)- 
pilod  and  arranged  in  a  manner,  we  hope,  convenient  and  simple,  the  plan  of 
which  has  never  been  attempted  before  in  any  work  relating  to  the  Pacitic  Coast. 
It  will  thus,  we  flatter  ourselves,  be  found  useful  to  the  immigrant,  the  merchant, 
the  seaman  and  navigator,  the  naturalist,  the  journalist,  the  traveller,  the  states- 
man, the  historian,  the  miner,  the  manufacturer  and  the  speculator,  and,  we  may 
add,  it  IS  made  from  the  study  of  long  years  of  California  life. 

Having  been  pressed,  as  it  were,  into  a  remote  corner  of  the  w^orld  for  over 
three  centuries,  the  progress  of  events  induced  by  the  discovery  of  gold  in  1848 
has  brought  thousands  of  ships  and  millions  of  men  in  sight  of  the  peninsular 
shores  for  the  last  twenty  years ;  yet  that  immense  country  is  still  empty — a 
mere  frame  without  a  picture.  But  the  rapid  completion  of  railroad  communi- 
cations across  the  continent,  with  hourly  telegrams,  the  steamer  lines  now 
securely  connecting  between  Cape  Horn  and  the  Oregon,  the  opening  in  1867 
of  the  steamer  routes  to  Australia  and  China,  and  the  institution  of  legalized  rail- 
road corporations  to  connect  the  Gulf  of  California  with  the  Bay  of  San  Fran- 
cisco and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  will  very  soon  draw,  voluntarily  or  not,  the  Califor- 
nia peninsula  within  the  periphery  of  events,  hW  with  the  fate  of  the  future 
States,  commonwealths,  niitions,  and  empires  of  the  great  ocean  which  the 
Divine  Father  of  All  seems  ordainino;  for  the  immediate  future. 


6  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

CHAPTER  I. 

FIRST   -MENTION   AND    NAMES    OF    CALIFORNIA. 

After  the  subjugation  of  the  empire  of  Montezuma  by  Fernando  Cortez, 
in  1522,  pearls,  emeralds,  turquoises,  garnets,  and  particular  specimens 
of  gold,  silver,  and  copper,  fell  to  the  lot  of  the  conquerors,  among 
much  other  spoils  of  treasure.  The  courtiers  of  the  Aztec  emperor  infomied 
the  Spaniards  that  these  treasures  came  from  the  countries  and  coasts  of 
the  ocean,  a  great  way  to  the  west  and  northwest  of  the  capital.  The  King 
of  Michoacan  and  the  caciques  of  his  province  of  Colima  called  this  coimtry  of 
treasures  Ciguatan,  a  name  adopted  by  the  conquerors  until  they  first  discovered 
the  shores  of  the  gulf  below  27°,  when  it  often  went  by  the  name  of  Santiago,  from 
a  place  on  the  coast  of  Tehuantepec,  where  Cortez  dispatched  his  first  'expedi- 
tion of  1532.  It  was,  after  1532,  called  Santa  Cruz,  from  the  bay  where 
anchored  Ximenez,  the  first  European  who  was  certainly  known  to  have  landed 
on  the  peninsula.  At  this  time  it  also  obtained  the  name  of  Idas  de  Perlas, 
from  the  accounts  and  specimens  brought  to  Cortez  by  the  companions  of 
Ximenez.  It  was  then  often  called  the  Islas  Amazones,  from  a  fable  current  in 
Mexico  of  a  nation  of  female  warriors  in  these  parts,  and  also  bay,  or  gulf,  or  coun- 
try "de  Ballenas,"  or  whales.  After  the  visit  of  Cortez  in  1535,  it  first  ac- 
quired the  name  of  California,  or  the  Islas  de  California.  After  the  death  of 
Cortez,  it  often  went  by  the  name  of  Islas  CaroUnas,  from  the  Emperor  Charles 
v.,  or  from  Charles  the  Second  of  Spain,  under  which  term  it  is  set  down  in 
many  old  maps  and  charts,  and  as  late  as  that  of  Anson  in  1740.  After  the 
Jesuit  settlement  of  1690  the  name  of  (7«^//bn?«a  became  more  and  more  con- 
firmed, until,  on  the  publication  of  the  Jesuit  Histories  after  1750,  it  became  per- 
manently recognized  in  history,  navigation,  and  geography,  under  that  title. 
After  the  settlements  of  San  Diego  and  Monterey  of  1770,  the  lower  portions 
bejjan  to  be  styled  California  Peninsular,  California  Antigua  or  Vieja,  and 
Baja  California,  and  the  country  beyond  the  Gila  junction  of  the  Colorado  and 
its  parallel  to  the  ocean,  as  Nueva  California,  California  Norte,  and  Alta  Cali- 
fornia. It  was  not  till  the  American  conquest  of  1846  that  the  name  of  the 
peninsula  was  confirmed  in  commerce  as  Lower  California^  and  the  northern 
countries  as  Up'per  California,  by  which  terms  they  are  now  more  fully  known 
in  politics  and  letters  than  the  Spanish  titles,  leaving  out  the  political  divisions 
of  this  last,  forming  subsequent  to  1846  what  is  now  known  as  the  Pacific  do- 
main of  the  United  States  of  America.  After  A.  d.  1800,  the  two  sections  were 
commonly  termed  Las  dos  Californias,  or  Las  Californias,  or  in  English  The 
two  Californias — a  terra  so  con\-enicut  as  to  be  frequently  applied  to  this  day, 
as  others  are  too  lengthy  or  prolix.  The  Spaniards  and  Mexicans  sometimes 
use  the  term  La  California  and  La  Californiana,  the  country  or  pertaining  to 
the  things  of  The  Californias.  Mr.  E.  E.  Hale,  of  Boston,  brings  excellent 
proof  of  the  origin  of  the  name  California,  from  a  Queen  of  the  Amazons  called 
California,  of  the  Greco-Syrian  countries,  contained  in  an  old  Crusader  romance, 
much  read  in  the  times  of  Cortez  and  Colimibus,  for  a  memoir  of  which  see 
papers  of  Hale,  published  in  1863  and  1864. 

THE    GULF    OF    CALIFORNIA ITS    TITLES. 

This  great  arm  of  the  Pacific,  which  penetrates  the  American  continent 
deeper  than  any  other  in  the  New  "World,  nins  from  near  23°  to  that 
of  31°  30',  or  a  length  of  say  600  geographical  miles,  to  where  it  receives  the 
waters  of  the  Colorado  of  the  "West.  It  acquired  its  name  of  the  Golfo  de 
Cortez,  or  Mar  de  Cortez,  from  the  great  captain,  who  visited  it  in  1537.     Its 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  7 

other  names  of  Mar  Vermiglion,  Mar  Rojo,  and  Mar  Vermi'jo,  seem  to  liave 
been  first  applied  in  1537-1540,  after  the  explorations  of  Ulloa  and  Alarcon,  from 
the  reddish  eolor  of  its  waters,  and  the  accounts  o-iven  of  its  sliorcs  by  Nuno  dc 
Guzman  and  his  officers,  the  first  conquerors  of  Sinaloa.  After  the  discovery 
of  its  entirety  by  Kino,  in  IVOO,  it  became  known  as  Mar  Laurentano,  from 
tlie  Virgin  of  Loretto,  patroness  of  the  California  missions,  Scno  California,  Mar 
Can/ornia,  when  in  the  Jesuit  maps  from  1730  to  1772  it  is  set  down  as  Gol/o 
de  California,  the  English  of  which  last,  Gulf  of  California,  is  what  is  its  most 
acceptable,  most  confirmed,  and  widest-known  title  in  1866.  The  Gulf  of  Cali- 
fornia bathes  the  entire  lengths  of  the  eastern  shores  of  Lower  California  and 
of  the  western  boundaries  of  the  States  of  Sinaloa  and  Sonora,  until  these  lines 
are  absorbed  by  the  waters  of  the  Colorado ;  that  is,  its  shore  line  is  1,200  miles 
in  length.  In  its  northern  parts  it  is  full  of  sand-bars,  shoals,  hidden  rocks, 
shallow  soundings,  and  dangerous  currents,  while  its  southern  portions  contain 
the  finest  harbors,  bays,  and  anchorages,  with  the  safest  navigation  for  the  major 
portion  of  the  year.  Its  breadth  ranges  all  the  way  from  20  miles  at  its  head 
to  250  miles  at  its  entrance  between  Cape  San  Lucas  and  the  port  of  Mazatlan. 

ITS    OCEAN    LINES,    COASTS,    AND    NORTHERN    LIMITS. 

From  Cape  San  Lucas,  in  a  little  below  23°,  the  ocean  coast  carries  a  gen- 
eral northwest  direction  for  the  distance  of,  say,  700  geographical  miles  to  a 
parallel  line  one  marine  league  from  the  southernmost  point  of  the  Bay  of  San 
Diego,  near  a  place  called  Tia  Juana,  according  to  the  Mexican  treaty  of  1848. 
To  identify  this  line  beyond  dispute,  a  marble  monument  was  erected  by  the 
boundary  commissioners  of  the  United  States  and  Mexico  in  1850,  opposite 
the  Coronado  Islets,  and  which  monument  is  situated  in  a  fraction  over  32°  31' 
of  latitude,  and  117°  06'  longitude  of  Greenwich.  The  ocean  shores  mn  at 
least  100  miles  farther  north  than  those  of  the  extreme- head  of  the  gulf.  This 
section  of  the  peninsula,  for  50  nautical  leagues  on  the  sea-coast  below  the  bound- 
ary, is  one  of  the  finest  districts  for  health,  climate,  and  fertilit}-,  the  climate 
particularly  being  one  of  the  most  uniform  and  delightful  in  the  world. 

THE    ISLANDS    OF   THE    OCEAN    AND    GULF    COASTS. 

The  first  island  on  the  Pacific,  after  passing  Cape  San  Lucas,  is  that  of 
Santa  Margarita,  which  is  22  miles  in  length  and  5  to  10  miles  in  breadth,  ac- 
cording to  De  Fleury's  map  of  1864.  According  to  Payot's  map  of  1863,  there 
are  several  unnamed  islands  in  the  bay  of  Magdalena,  of  which  Margarita 
forms  its  southern  defence,  not  at  all  inserted  in  De  Fleury's  map  of  1864,  nor 
is  there  any  description  of  these  either  in  Belcher  or  Findley.  In  fact,  this 
part  of  the  coast  has  never  been  accurately  located,  a  crying  evil,  as  one  steamer 
and  several  vessels  have  been  lost  or  greatly  damaged  in  these  j^arts  since  1850. 
The  small  island  of  Cresciente  is  within  sight  of  Margarita  to  the  northeast, 
and  only  two  or  three  miles  from  the  mainland. 

About  280  miles  above  Margarita  is  the  island  of  Natividad,  some  four 
.  miles  long  and  two  broad.  This,  with  the  island  of  Cedros,  forms  the  south- 
west defences  of  the  bay  of  Sebastian  Viscaino,  so  called  from  that  navigator's 
anchorage  here  in  1602.  Cedros  is  some  25  miles  long  by  five  in  breadth  ;  to 
the  west  of  it  are  the  small  islets  of  San  Benito.  Going  up  the  coast,  no  other 
important  islands  are  met  with  till  that  of  San  Geronimo  is  reached,  140  miles 
from  Cedros,  and  situated  opposite  the  Mission  of  La  Rosavio,  and  which  is  only 
four  or  five  miles  in  length.  The  last  island  met  with  after  Geronimo  is  Cenisas, 
near  the  bay  of  San  Quentin,  which  is  only  two  or  three  miles  in  length. 

The  island  of  Guadelupe,  nearly  due  west  from  Cedros,  and  120  miles  from 
the  coast  in  lat.  28°  45',  is  also  included  in  the  territory  of  Lower  California. 


8  SKETCH    OF   THE    SETTLEMENT   AND 

The  position  of  this  island  was  definitely  fixed  by  Admiral  Du  Petit  Thouars  in 
November,  1837,  though  it  was  approximately  located  on  several  old  Spanish, 
and  other  charts  even  prior  to  1820;  it  is  only  a  mass  of  rocks  some  20  miles 
in  circumference,  and  has  often  been  visited  since  1850  by  California  otter- 
hunters  and  whalers. 

Going  from  Cape  San  Lucas  up  the  gulf,  about  100  miles  north,  the  first 
island  of  the  gulf  is  that  of  Ceralbo  (or  White  Hills),  some  12  miles  in  length, 
and  stated  to  contain  copper  mines  of  great  value.  The  second  is  Espiritu 
Santo,  about  six  miles  long,  containing  also  very  rich  copper-mines.  This  last 
island  blocks  the  mouth  of  the  bay  of  La  Paz,  which  runs  southeast  for  some 
20  miles,  in  the  Avesteni  corners  of  which  is  the  minor  bay  called  Pichilingue, 
containing  the  small  island  of  San  Juan  Nepoceno.  The  third  island  is  the 
small  one  of  San  Francisco,  in  sight  of  which  is  the  fourth,  known  as  San  Jose, 
and  some  12  miles  long.  The  fifth  island  is  called  Santa  Catalina,  and  within  five  or 
six  miles  of  it  is  the  sixth,  called  Montserrat:  these  two  are  about  10  miles  in 
circumference  each.  The  seventh  island  is  the  celebrated  one  of  Carmen,  which 
contains  beyond  all  dispute  the  richest,  most  peculiar,  and  most  accessible  salt- 
mine in  the  whole  world,  and  entirely  inexhaustible.  The  Jesuits,  about  1730, 
asked  from  the  viceroy  a  grant  of  this  mine  in  perpetuity,  from  which  they 
would  maintain  their  California  establishments  fi'ee  of  cost  to  the  king's  treas- 
ury. Carmen  Island  is  about  25  miles  long  by  six  broad,  and  is  within  a  few 
hours'  sail  of  the  old  town  of  Loretto.  Five  or  six  miles  beyond  it  is  the  eighth 
island,  called  Coronados,  of  a  few  miles'  extent.  Farther  up  from  Carmen  some 
30  miles  is  the  ninth  island,  San  Ildefonso,  and  within  two  or  three  hours'  sail, 
that  of  Santa  Isabel,  the  tenth,  at  the  mouth  of  Moleje  Bay :  both  of  these, 
with  three  or  four  others  in  the  bay  aforesaid,  are  onl}^  a  few  miles  in  extent. 
The  three  islands  called  Galapagos,  30  miles  above  Moleje,  are  the  eleventh, 
and  are  also  only  of  a  few  miles'  extent;  the  Gallapagos  are  some  25  miles  in 
front  and  to  the  west  of  Tortugas  Island,  which  is  iu  midchannel  and  within 
sight  of  the  port  of  Guaymas  on  the  Sonora  coast :  this  island  may  be  set 
down  for  the  Sonora  coast,  and,  it  is  said,  has  an  extinct  volcano  on  it. 
The  thirteenth  island  is  Trinidad,  and  the  fourteenth  San  Bernarbe,  both 
some  20  miles  in  circumference  and  about  40  miles  above  the  Galla- 
pagos. The  fifteenth  are  the  Sal  Si  Puedes,  three  small  islands,  within  sight 
of  two  others,  known  as  Las  Animas  and  Raza,  which  together  form  an  archi- 
pelago very  dangerous  for  their  impetuous  currents.  To  the  west  of  Las  Ani- 
mas, there  is  a  number  of  small  islands  close  to  the  mainland,  which  are  not 
well  known  by  name  in  geography.  Between  the  mainland  and  these,  to  the 
eastward,  is  the  Canal  de  Ballenas,  or  Whales,  which  divides  off  the  sixteenth, 
or  Great  Island  of  Angel  de  la  Guarda,  50  miles  in  length  and  about  15  in 
breadth.  Northward  of  Angel,  some  50  miles  in  the  bay  of  San  Felipe  de 
Jesus,  is  the  rocky  islet  or  farallon  of  Santa  Felicia.  Twenty  miles  farther 
northeast  is  the  seventeenth  island,  called  San  Eugenio,  about  seven  miles 
around,  and  sometimes  called  Farallon  de  San  Eugenio,  from  a  rocky  islet  close 
by,  off  the  southern  coast  of  which  aVe  some  extremely  dangerous  sunken  rocks 
and  ledges.  Immediately  north  of  San  Eugenio,  at  the  narrowest  part  of  the  gulf, 
are  the  eighteenth  islands,  known  as  Las  Reyes,  which  block  the  entrance  of 
the  Colorado  and  gulf.  Above  these  last  are  a  number  of  large  flat  islands, 
formed  by  the  bores  of  the  river  and  gulf,  which  are  enclosed  within  the  banks 
of  the  river,  and  a  regular  network  of  similar  formations  is  found  nearly  to 
the  junction  of  the  Gila,  and  which  all  belong  to  Mexican  territory. 

Coming  down  the  gulf  from  the  river  ou  the  ivest  shore  of  Sonora,  or 
the  eastern  waters  of  tho  gulf,  is  first  the  small  island  of  Patos,  which  is 
some  130  miles  southeast  of  San  Eugenio.  A  narrow  strait  divides  this  from 
the  large  island  of  Tiburon,  some  20  miles  long  and  10  broad,  and  which  can 
be  seen  from  above  the  city  of  Hermosillo  in  clear  weather.      Below  Tiburon, 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  9 

some.  25  miles,  is  San  Pedro  Martyr  Island,  and  30  miles  farther  south  is  that 
of  San  Marco,  a  few  miles  north  of  Guaymas,  the  bay  of  which  port  has  several 
small  islets.  To  the  south  of  Guaymas,  50  miles,  is  the  small  island  of  Lobos. 
At  the  mouth  of  the  River  Sinaloa  are  five  or  six  small  islands,  amonj^  the 
principal  of  which  is  San  Io;nacio  and  Macapula.  Below  the  mouth  of  the  River 
Culiacan  are  several  long,  low  islands  alona;  the  coast,  which  are,  however,  very 
little  known  in  navigation  or  commerce.  To  the  south  of  these  last,  to  the  port 
of  Mazatlan,  the  coast  is  generally  clean,  with  open  aspects;  seaward  at  the 
mouth  of  the  gulf,  where  the  ocean  swells,  in  the  hurricane  months,  beat  with 
immense  surfs  and  rollers  of  overwhelming  force.  After  the  stormy  season  has 
pa>t,  the  navigation  of  the  gulf  is  one  of  the  safest  and  most  delightful  in  any 
sea,  for  more  than  eight  months  of  the  year.  But  the  above-named  islands  of 
the  eastern  waters  belong  in  no  way  to  Lower  California,  but  pertain  entirely 
to  Sinaloa  and  Sonora. 

All  this  immense  stretch  and  lines  of  1,200  miles  of  gulf  coast  and  700  miles 
of  ocean  shores,  Avitli  their  islands,  are  entirehj  unfixed  lujdrographicalbj,  either 
in  books,  charts,  or  maps,  except  a  few  points  by  Spanish  navigators,  between 
1770  and  1800,  by  the  English  and  French,  between  1824  and  1850,  and  by 
Americans,  between  184G  and  18G6,  the  most  accurate  of  which  are  those  of 
Admiral  Belcher  in  1839,  confined,  however,  only  to  four  or  five  localities  on 
the  ocean  coast.  With  the  wealth  of  minerals,  fisheries,  agriculture,  and  com- 
merce, which  is  opening  on  these  wonderful  territories,  and  the  immense  amount 
of  shipping  which  sail  daily  within  sight  of  its  sea  lines,  the  scientific  survey  of 
them  bv  competent  persons  is  loudly  called  for  by  the  principal  maritime 
powers  of  the  world .'  probably  it  could  be  better  done  by  a  joint  commission 
of  hydroo-raphists  of  the  great  naval  powers.  There  is  not  an  island  in  all  those 
we  "have  mentioned,  in  the  gulf  or  in  the  Pacific,  except  Santa  Margarita, 
Cedros,  and  Guadclupe,  whose  true  positions  or  superficial  dimensions  are  known 
in  navigation,  geography,  or  history,  and  only  a  few  of  them  are  inhabited, 
and  then  only  by  a  few  fishermen.  If  all  these  islands,  which  contain  immense 
resources  in  excellent  harbors,  in  minerals,  in  fisheries,  and  in  pearl-oyster  banks, 
were  joined  together,  they  would  make  a  district  of  country  100  miles  long  by 
80  miles  broad,  and  at  a  rough  estimate,  they  would  make  one-fifteenth  of  the 
superficies  of  the  peninsula. 

CHAPTER  II. 

THE    IIARDORS,    BAYS,    AND    PORTS    OF    THE    PENINSULA, 

Coming  from  San  Diego  to  the  south  on  the  Pacific,  the  best-known  har- 
bors are : 

First.  The  Bay  of  Todos  Santos,  near  which  is  the  well-known  locality, 
called  the  Sausal  de  Camacho,  where  salt  has  been  procured  in  abundance 
since  1855.  It  makes  a  fine  harbor  for  vessels  under  400  tons,  and  is  now  often 
resorted  to  by  whalers  and  others.  A  grant  of  great  extent  covers  the  lands  of 
this  bay,  claimed  by  Jose  Y.  Limantonr. 

Second.  To  the  southward,  about  100  miles,  is  the  fine  bay  and  port  of  San 
Quintin,  sometimes  called  in  maps  and  charts  San  Francisco,  and  also  Bay  of 
the  Eleven  Thousand  Virgins  of  ('ologne  ;  San  Quintin  is  the  term  now  gen- 
erally known  in  navigation.  Tiie  apex  of  the  bay  at  the  north  has  valuable 
Salinas  or  salt-beds,  which  have  been  worked  since  1853,  and  the  salt  from  its 
superior  quality  is  ■well  known  in  the  San  Francisco  markets.  A  large  grant 
of  land  is  also  laid  down  here  as  belonging  to  Limantonr. 

Third.  To  the  southward,  some  130  miles,  is  the  gi-eat  bay  of  Sebastian 
Yiscaino,  made  by  Cedros  and  Natividad  Islands ;  its  western  aspects  are  en- 
tirely open  to  the  west  for  one-half  of  its  length.      It  has  a  small  arm  at  its 


10  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

northern  apex,  called  Pescado  Blanca,  where  is  a  valuable  salt-bed,  in  the 
vicinity  of  which  is  the  grant  of  Mr.  Millatowitch,  a  well-known  Russian  citizen 
of  California.  Several  extensive  lagoons  make  into  the  land,  according  to 
Payot's  map,  which  are  laid  down  in  no  other  map.  A  third  grant,  some  60 
miles  long  and  20  broad,  covering  all  the  neighboring  lands  of  the  bay,  is  also 
here  claimed  by  Liraantour.  Valuable  salinas  are  found  all  along  the  shores 
of  this  bay,  which  was  discovered  by  Viscaiuo  in  1602,  though  on  many  maps 
it  is  put  down  as  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  and  also  Saint  Sebastian ;  on  others, 
the  Bay  of  Magdalena  is  located  here. 

Fourth.  Some  10  miles  below  Natividad  Island  is  the  small  bay  of  San 
Bartholomew,  often  called  Turtle  Bay,  which  contains  valuable  fisheries  of 
turtle,  used  for  the  supply  of  the  San  Francisco  market. 

Fifth.  One  hundred  miles  below  San  Bart's,  after  doubling  Point  Abreojos, 
is  Ballenas  Bay,  which  in  27°  runs  into  the  land  for  20  miles,  and  is  the  resort 
of  innumerable  whales  in  the  calving  season,  and  from  which  hundreds  of  tons 
of  oil  have  been  shipped  to  San  Francisco  and  the  East  since  1853. 

Sixth.  One  hundred  and  fifty  miles  below  Ballenas  opens  up  the  Great 
Gulf  or  Bay  of  La  Magdalena,  discovered  by  Cabrillo  in  1542,  rediscovered  by 
Viscaino  in  1602,  and  found  from  the  descriptions  of  this  last  by  the  Jesuit 
Father  Guillen  in  1*719.  It  is  often  mentioned  by  Spanish  navigators,  and  is 
one  of  the  most  extensive  on  the  west  coast  of  America,  but  was  not  known 
properly  in  navigation  till  Admiral  Belcher's  visit  of  1839.  The  bay  forms 
into  a  great  many  ramifications  and  arms,  and  is  about  50  miles  in  extreme 
length,  with  several  low,  sandy  islands,  as  well  as  rocky  ones  ;  its  breadth  ranges 
all  the  way  from  5  to  20  miles.  For  the  last  50  years  it  has  been  the  resort 
of  American  whalers,  sealers,  and  other  hunters,  and  since  1854  regular  estab- 
lishments of  this  class  from  California  have  aggregated  on  its  shores  until  quite 
a  settlement  is  now  formed.  It  is  also  much  resorted  to  by  Chinamen  from 
San  Francisco  for  gathering  the  moUusk  called  cmlon,  the  meat  of  which  is  so 
much  esteemed  by  the  wealthy  people  of  China. 

Seventh.  Some  50  miles  below  Magdalena  the  small  bay  of  Todos  Santos  Mis- 
sion is  reached,  near  which  are  some  of  the  most  fertile  spots  of  the  peninsula. 

Eighth.  About  35  miles  farther  (south),  at  the  extremity  of  Lower  California, 
Cape  San  Lucas,  the  most  celebrated  promontory  on  the  west  coast  of  America, 
is  reached.  And  here  we  begin  to  turn  north  and  east  up  the  grand  portals  of 
the  Gulf  of  California,  of  whose  best  harbors,  ports,  and  bays,  we  shall  now 
make  such  detail  as  is  warranted  from  what  has  been  noted  of  them,  not  a 
single  one  of  which,  however,  has  been  properly  surveyed. 

Ninth.  The  first  is  the  roadstead  of  the  old  Mission  of  San  Jose,  often  called 
San  Joso  del  Cabo  or  of  the  Cape,  from  its  proximity  to  Cape  San  Lucas,  and 
appears  to  be  the  same  as  the  Bay  of  San  Bernarbe  or  Porto  Seguro  of  old 
charts;  from  the  cape  it  is  distant  some  20  miles  near  the  mouth  of  the  small 
river  or  arroyo  of  San  Jose.  This  is  a  frequent  stopping-place  for  whalers,  and 
the  schooners  running  from  Guaymas,  Mazatlan,  San  Francisco,  and  San  Bias, 
and  a  considerable  quantity  of  fertile  land  is  found  in  its  vicinity. 

Tenth.  Eighty  miles  above  San  Jose  is  the  well-known  bay  of  La  Paz, 
which  penetrates  the  land  to  the  south  some  25  miles  from  Espiritu  Santo 
Island,  having  a  varying  breadth  of  from  G  to  10  miles.  This  is  one  of  the 
safest  and  finest  bays  and  harbors  in  the  two  Californias,  and  has  been  known  in 
navigation  and  history  for  350  years.  It  has  been  celebrated  all  this  time  for 
the  almndance  of  pearl  oysters,  and  has  produced  pearls  among  the  most  valued 
gems  of  the  jeweller  and  lapidary,  and  prized  in  the  regalia  of  kings,  emperors, 
and  princes.  It  was  the  centre  of  operations  of  the  American  naval  and  mili- 
tary forces  in  1846  to  1848,  and  is  now  the  depot  for  the  Mexican  coast  line  of 
steamers  from  San  Francisco,  Since  1830  it  has  been  the  capital  of  Lower  Cali- 
fornia,  where  all  government  operations  centre. 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  H 

Tenth.  The  next  harbor  is  tlio  Pinall  one  of  the  old  rrcsklio  of  Loretto,  which 
has  been  known  since  1700.  It  is  formed  by  the  Coronado  and  Carmen  Islands, 
and  makes  a  fine  anchorage  in  ordinary  seasons ;  in  its  vicinity  the  pearl  oyster 
was  formerly  found  in  the  greatest  alHindancc. 

Eleventh.  The  next  harbor  north  of  Loretto  of  value  is  that  of  Moleje,  so 
called  from  an  Indian  camp  found  there  by  the  Jesuits  before  1730,  It  is  about 
20  miles  deep  by  an  average  of  five,  and  is  considered  the  best  in  the  gulf  after 
La  Paz.  It  is  famous  for  the  extent  of  its  pearl-oyster  banks,  and  was  resorted 
to  by  the  divei"s  from  the  Sinaloa  coast  in  the  time  of  Cortez. 

Twelfth.  Above  Moleje  the  coast  of  the  peninsula  abounds  in  small  harbors, 
none  of  which,  arc  frequented  or  much  better  known  than  in  the  time  of  Father 
Consag's  voyage  of  1746,  the  country  having  very  few  inhabitants  above  Moleje. 
The  large  bay  of  Los  Angeles,  180  miles  above  Moleje,  capable  as  is  said 
of  holding  hundreds  of  small  vessels,  has  been  frequently  resorted  to  within  the 
last  ten  years,  and  its  waters  and  those  of  Angel  Island  abound  in  a  peculiar 
species  of  whale  and  rich  banks  of  pearl  oysters.  Copper,  sulphur,  and  argen- 
trferous  lead  minerals  are  said  to  be  very  abundant  in  the  country  around  its 
shores,  as  intimated  by  Consag  in  1746. 

Thirteenth.  Above  this  bay  of  Los  Angeles,  some  160  miles,  is  the  bay  and 
port  of  San  Felipe  de  Jesus,  which  has  been  established  since  1858,  principally 
by  the  exertions  of  Mr.  Millatowich,  who  has  here  another  grant  of  land.  This 
is  described  as  a  fine  little  harbor,  and  has  been  used  by  American  vessels  bound 
to  the  Colorado,  and  for  communications  overland  to  the  Bay  of  San  Quintin  on 
the  ocean  coast,  and  for  trading  with  the  Indian  tribes  in  the  country  around 
the  peninsular  head  of  the  gulf.  It  was  formerly,  with  that  of  Los  Angeles,  used 
by  the  Jesuits  and  the  Dominicans  for  conveying  stores  and  effects  in1;he  found- 
ing of  the  missions  on  the  ocean  coast  above  Santa  Gertrudes  between  1760  and 
1800,  and  since  1858  has  attracted  considerable  attention.  There  is  now 
(1867)  said  to  be  a  small  settlement  here. 

Above  San  Felipe  there  are  no  ports  or  harbors  worth  mentioning,  as  they 
are  said  to  be  shallow  and  but  little  frequented,  or  fitted  for  commerce^  from  the 
dangerous  shoals  and  cayes  formed  by  the  deposits  of  the  Colorado.  x\ll  the 
forementioned  islands,  harbors,  bays,  and  ports  of  the  gulf,  were  first  made 
known  and  named  by  Padre  Pedro  Ugarte,  in  his  voyage  up  the  gulf  in  1721, 
in  the  sloop  Triumph  of  the  Cross,  and  more  thoroughly  and  in  detail  by 
Father  Fernando  Consag  in  1746,  continued  in  small  degree  by  Padre  Winces- 
lao  Link  in  1765  ;  since  that  period  nothing  has  been  done  in  these  gulf  lines  of 
any  account 

PROGRESS    OF    DISCOVERY    AND    EXPLORATION THE    EXTRA-CHRISTIAN    WORLD 

DIVIDED    BETWEEN    SPAIN   AND    PORTUGAL. 

The  treaty  of  Saragosa,  concluded  at  that  city  on  the  22d  April,  1529, 
between  the  King  of  Spain  and  the  King  of  Portugal,  by  which  the  old  under- 
standing of  1494  was  confirmed,  and  the  islands  or  now  countries  discov- 
ered and  to  be  discovered  should  be  divided  between  Spain  and  Portu- 
gal. Pope  Nicholas  V.  in  1454  had  granted  his  bull  of  approval  that  Por- 
tugal should  have  the  results  of  ail  her  discoveries  not  occupied  by 
Christian  people,  made  on  the  coast  of  Africa,  and  to  the  eastward,  which  about 
the  time  of  Columbus's  first  voyage  of  1492  thev  had  succeeded  in  doubling. 
Ferdinand  and  Isabella  in  1494  therefore  procured  from  Pope  Alexander  VL 
bulls  of  approval,  granting  them  all  discoveries  made  to  the  west.  Acrimonious 
disputes  arising  under  these  bulls,  the  two  powers  made  at  the  town  of  Torde- 
sillas  the  famous  Treaty  of  Partition  of  the  Ocean,  by  which  all  lands  lying 
to  the  east  of  a  meridian  line  370  leagues  westward  of  the  Cape  Verde  Islands 
were  to  belong  to  Portugal,  while  alUo  the  west  of  the  said  line  fell  to  Spain. 


12  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

On  this  basis  tlie  navigators  of  both  countries  ran  afoul  of  eacli  other  iu  tbe 
Malayan  seas  and  archipelagos  in  search  of  the  valuable  spices,  and  the  precious 
stones,  pearls,  and  metals,  when  all  Europe  was  again  put  in  commotion  by  the 
peppery  disputes  between  the  two  Catholic  potencies,  of  where  East  gave  out, 
and  where  West  ended.  Commissioners  from  these  two  nations,  then  the  great- 
est naval  powers  in  the  world,  met  at  the  city  of  Badajos  in  Spain  in  1523,  but 
without  effecting  any  settlement.  The  second  commissions  then  came  together 
at  the  city  of  Saragossa  in  Spain,  and  on  the  22d  of  April,  1529,  aforesaid,  a 
final  treaty  of  limits  was  effected  by  the  King  of  Spain  selling  to  the  King  of 
Portugal  all  his  rights  to  the  islands  of  the  Moluccas,  for  the  sum  of  350,000 
ducats  of  gold,  equivalent  to  83,080,000  of  our  money,  and  for  Spain  to  retire 
within  limits  east  of  the  said  Moluccas.  This  arrangement  greatly  affected  and 
stimulated  the  subsequent  discovery,  exploration,  and  conquest  of  the  continents 
and  islands  bathed  by  the  waters  of  the  great  South  Sea,  now  called  the  Pacific, 
and  hastened  materially  a  better  knowledge  of  the  Californias,  and  the  islands 
of  the  great  Eastern  Archipelagos. 

CIRCUMNAVIGATION   OF   THE    EARTH — WHAT    WAS    BELIEVED    SQUARE    IS    SHOWN 

TO    BE    ROUND. 

Only  a  few  years  before,  Fernando  Magallanes  with  three  Spanish  ships,  after 
a  perilous  passage  of  thirty-seven  days  through  the  straits  which  bear  his  name, 
entered  a  boundless  horizon  of  water,  which  he  named  the  Pacific  Ocean,  on  the 
27th  day  of  November,  1520.  So  greatly  was  he  affected  that  he  shed  tears  of 
joy,  and  ordered  thanks  to  be  returned  to  God  throughout  his  fleet.  Sailing  to 
the  north  and  west  lie  arrived  at  the  Western,  now  called  Philippine  islands,  and 
was  killed  at  the  Island  of  Matan  in  that  group,  on  the  2Vth  of  April,  1521. 
After  many  escapes  from  peril  by  sea  and  land,  Juan  Sebastian  del  Cauo  brought 
the  ship  Victoria  with  18  men,  from  the  Moluccas,  by  the  way  of  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  back  through  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar,  aud  came  to  anchor  at  the 
port  of  San  Lucas,  in  Spain,  on  the  6th  September,  1522  ;  the  vessel  being  the 
first  which  had  made  the  circumference  of  the  earth,  aud  confirmed  the  theory 
of  men  of  learning  who  argued  this  fact  from  the  figure  of  our  planet  when  in 
eclipse  with  the  sun.  For  this  great  feat,  the  Emperor  Charles  V.  made  Del  Ca- 
no  a  grandee  of  Spain,  and  his  18  companions  were  all  highly  recompensed  and 
honored.     Thus  it  came  to  pass  that  the  sun  never  set  on  the  empire  of  Spain. 

THE    GREAT    SOUTH    SEA    ALSO  POSSESSED    BY    SPAIN. 

But  it  was  nine  long  years  before  Magellan's  circumnavigation,  that  Vasco 
Nunez  de  Balboa  saw  from  the  mountains  of  the  Isthmus  the  great  sea,  without 
limits  of  horizon,  to  the  southwest,  and  on  the  25th  Septeniber,  1513,  he  entered 
the  ocean  at  Panama,  and  took  possession  of  the  South  Seas  for  the  King  of  Spain. 

IN    SEARCH    OF   THE    SPICE    ISLANDS    OF    MAGELLAN — VOYAGE    FROM    SPAIN    BY 
GARCIA   LOYASA    IN    1525. 

In  the  year  1525,  on  the  24th  July,  the  Emperor  Charles  Y.  dispatched 
Garcia  Jofre  dc  Loyasa,  with  a  fleet  of  six  vessels  and  450  men,  from  Corunna,  in 
Spain,  to  take  possession  of  the  Spice  Islands,  in  which  expedition  went  iVudres 
de  Urdanetta  as  one  of  the  pilots,  who  afterward  became  an  Augustine  monk, 
and  was  in  the  expedition  of  Legaspi  in  1564. 

The  Pataca,  commanded  by  Jago  de  Guevara,  the  smallest  vessel  iuLoyasa's 
fleet,  which  had  se2)arated  in  a  storm  on  the  first  of  June,  after  entering  the  Pa- 
cific by  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  steered  along  the  west  coast  of  America,  aud 
■came  to  anchor  at  Tchuantcpec,  on  the  25th  July,  1526,  after  a  passage  of  55 
days ;  Captain  Guevara  and  his  chaplain,  Friar  Arreyzaga,  were  conducted  to 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  13 

Cortez,  in  the  city  of  Mexico.  Tliis  is  the  first  voyage  on  record  from  the  coasts 
of  Chili  to  the  coasts  of  Mexico.  The  remain  ing  vessels  of  the  fleet  crossed  the 
equator,  and  in  latitude  4°  north,  on  the  30th  Jnly,  152G,  Loyasa,  the  captain- 
general  of  the  expedition,  died,  and  was  succeeded  by  Sebastian  del  Cano,  who 
had  been  sent  by  the  emperor  as  second  in  command.  Del  Cano  also  died  at 
sea,  four  days  after  Loyasa.  Torribio  Alonzo  dc  Salazar  was  then  chosen  com- 
mander, and  immediately  sailed  for  the  Ladrone  Islands,  where  they  arrived  on 
the  4th  September,  after  leaving  which,  Salazar  himself  died  on  the  10th,  Martin 
Inio^uez  was  then  chosen  commander.  On  the  31st  December  Iniguez  anchors 
at  Tidore,  of  the  Moluccas,  and  is  immediately  menaced  by  the  Portuguese. 
Inisjuez  also  dying,  Hernando  de  la  Torre  was  chosen  commander,  who,  at  Gil- 
lolo  Island,  met  with  the  fleet  of  xVlvaro  de  Saavedra,  sent  by  Cortez  from  Mexico 
in  1527,  to  cooperate  with  Loyasa's  fleet.  The  expeditions  meeting  with  great 
trouble  from  the  Portuguese,  and  Saavedra  dying,  De  la  Torre  ofiered  to  cease 
all  opposition,  if  the  Spaniards  were  returned  by  them  to  Spain.  This  was 
efiected,  and  XJrdanetta  and  De  la  Torre  passed  to  Europe  by  the  way  of  Por- 
tuguese India,  thence  to  Lisbon,  and  arrived  in  Spain  in  February,  1537,  having 
left  the  Moluccas  in  1534,  and  departed  from  Corunna  in  July,  1525:  it  had 
taken  them  tweke  years  to  get  round  the  world. 

CORTEZ    SENDS    SAAVEDRA   TO    FIND    T  SPICE    ISLANDS. 

The  emperor  had  pressed  on  Cortez  the  discovery  of  a  strait  dividing  the 
continent,  and  the  finding  a  way  from  New  Spain  to  the  Islands  of  Spices,  Ma- 
gellan's vessel  ha\dng  brought  a  large  quantity  of  those  valuable  materials,  then 
selling  at  immense  prices  in  Europe.  The  Pataca,  under  Guevara,  arriving  in 
Mexico  about  this  time,  Cortez  was  stimulated  to  eflect  promptly  these  great  ob- 
jects, and  accordingly  dispatched  his  kinsman,  Alvara  de  Saavedra,  with  three 
ships,  the  Florida,  the  St.  Jago,  and  the  Espiritu  Santo,  with  110  men.  These 
sailed  from  the  port  of  Sihuantanejo,  in  West  Mexico,  on  the  31st  October,  1527. 
Steering  to  the  west,  they  met  with  great  sufferings,  losing  two  vessels  of  the 
fleet,  and  Saavedra,  in  the  other,  arriving  at  the  Ladrone  Islands  in  January, 
1528,  From  thence  he  visited  Mindando,  and  finally  joined  the  last  vessel  of 
Loyasa's  unfortunate  fleet,  under  De  la  Torre,  at  Gillolo,  of  the  Spice  Islands, 
who  would  not  credit  that  Saavedra's  ship  had  come  from  New  Spain,  until  after 
cautious  inquiries.  Saavedra  repaired  his  ship  at  Tidore,  took  aboard  seventy 
quintals  of  cloves,  and  the  3d  June,  1528,  with  only  30  men,  set  sail  from  Ti- 
dore to  return  to  New  Spain,  but  after  reaching  lat.  14°  north,  and  meeting  with 
many  misfortunes,  was  compelled  to  turn  back  to  Tidore  again,  where  he  arrived 
in  October,  and  again  repaired  his  vessel.  In  May,  1529,  he  left  this  island, 
again  to  return  to  Mexico  by  the  way  of  New  Guinea,  and,  after  a  short  stay  at 
the  islands  Los  Jardines  (in  l76°  W.  of  Greenwich),  died  at  sea.  Before  dying,  he 
called  his  men  together,  and  made  Pedro  Lasso  commander.  Saavedra  was  a  good 
man,  and  greatly  respected  by  his  men,  and  had  formed  a  plan  for  opening  a 
passage  by  sea  through  the  Isthmus  of  America.  Lasso  died  at  sea  eight  days 
after  Saavedra,  and  it  was  XJixlanetta,  as  would  seem  from  the  confused  Spanish 
accounts,  who  brought  back  Saavedra's  vessel  to  the  Spice  Islands,  where  he 
arrived  with  only  18  men,  and  joined  De  la  Torre.  Here,  from  reports  that  the 
Emperor  Charles  V.  had  sold  the  Spice  Islands  to  Portugal,  they  fell  into  dis- 
putes, wars,  and  misfortunes  with  the  Portuguese  and  the  natives,  and  finally, 
being  greatly  reduced  in  men  in  both  ships,  by  scurvy  and  other  sickness,  en- 
tered into  a  treaty  of  peace  with  the  Portuguese,  until  both  parties  could  hear 
from  Europe.  After  many  delays  they  gave  themselves  up,  the  Portuguese 
ao"reein<T  in  1534  to  return  them  to  Europe,  and  they  reached  Spain,  after  a 
tedious  and  dangerous  journey,  in  India,  Asia,  and  the  Mediterranean,  in  February, 
1537,  as  mentioned  in  the  account  of  Loyasa's  expedition.     The  two  expeditions, 


14  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

which  had  cost  so  much  money  and  so  many  lives,  experienced,  from  first  to  last, 
a  sad  and  innumerable  train  of  trials,  dangers,  deaths,  shipwrecks,  misfortunes,  and 
disjyraces,  which  greatly  affected  the  public  sentiment  in  Spain  and  Mexico,  par- 
ticularly when  the  emperor's  sale  of  the  Moluccas  was  made  known  through  the 
final  treaty  of  Saragossa  of  1529,  this  treaty  being  essentially  promoted  by  the 
difficulties  and  complications  growing  out  of  the  operations  of  the  forces  of  Lo- 
yasa  and  Saavedra. 

CHAPTER  III. 

FIRST    VOYAGE    ORDERED    BY    CORTEZ   TO    FIND    THE    COUNTRIES    OF   PEARLS 

AKD    GOLD. 

In  1528  Fernando  Cortez  dispatched,  from  Tehuantcpec,  Cristoval  de  Olid 
and  Diego  Hurtado  de  Mendoza  in  five  vessels  to  make  discoveries  to  the  north 
and  to  the  south,  while  he  went  to  Europe  (in  1528)  to  defend  himself  agaiust 
his  enemies.  This  enterprise,  like  the  one  sent  by  him  from  Zacatala  in  the 
same  year  under  Pedro  Nunez  Maldonado  (or  Francisco  Maldonado),  who  went 
up  as  high  as  the  river  of  Santiago,  in  Jalisco,  resulted  in  nothing  of  material 
interest,  except  stimulating  the  desire  of  Cortez  to  know  more  of  the  northern 
countries. 

SECOND    VOYAGE    ORDERED    BY  CORTEZ,   TO    FIND  THE    ISLAND    OF    CALIFORNIA, 
RICH    IN    GOLD    AND    PRECIOUS    STONES. 

After  returning  from  Spain  to  Mexico,  in  1530,  where  he  was  made  Mar- 
quis of  Oaxaca  by  the  emperor,  with  the  authority  to  make  fnrther  conquests, 
Cortez  got  ready  four  vessels,  named  La  Concepcion,  San  Lazaro,  San  Marcos, 
and  San  Miguel.  These  last  two  he  placed  under  Hurtado  de  Mendoza  of  the 
1528  enterpi'ise,  directing  him  to  make  explorations  to  the  north  and  west 
among  the  islands  and  coasts  of  New  Spain,  and  to  find  the  Island  of  California, 
rich  in  gold  and  precious  stones.  He  had  thus  dispatched,  since  1527,  four 
expeditions  of  discovery,  viz. :  Saavedra's,  De  Olid  and  Mendoza's,  Maldonado's 
and  the  present  again  under  Mendoza.  This  last  now  sailed  from  Acapulco  on 
the  3d  June,  1532,  and,  exploring  the  coast,  came  to  anchor  at  Aguatlan,  or 
Santiago  de  Buen  Esperanza,  in  20° ;  from  thence  to  the  port  of  Matanchel  in 
21°  :  in  a  few  days  afterward  he  found  the  Magdalena  or  Tres  Marias  Islands, 
60  miles  to  the  northwest.  After  this  he  proceeded  slowly  along  the  coast  till 
he  made  27°  or  near  the  mouth  of  the  Mayo  River.  Meeting  with  a  constant 
series  of  storms,  attacks  from  the  natives,  short  provisions,  and  his  crews  in  a 
mutinous  state,  he  determined  to  send  one  vessel  back  by  sea,  while  with  the 
other  he  continued  his  voyage  to  the  north.  The  returning  vessel  was  wrecked 
at  the  month  of  the  Vanderas,  near  Cape  Corrientes,  w^hen  all  but  three  men  were 
killed  by  the  Indians,  and  the  vessel  was  seized  by  the  soldiers  of  Nuno  de 
Guzman.  Of  Mendoza's  vessel  nothing  more  is  known  than  rumors  prevailed 
of  his  being  wrecked  farther  north,  with  the  loss  of  all  on  board.  None  of  his 
crew  ever  returned.  The  three  survivors  from  the  Indian  attack  reached  Cortez 
in  1531,  several  months  afterward,  and  from  their  accounts  strong  representa- 
tions were  made  by  him  against  Guzman  before  the  royal  Audiencia  of  Mexico. 

THIRD  VOYAGE  ORDERED  BY  CORTEZ. 

On  the  30th  October,  1533,  Cortez  dispatched  from  Tehuantepec  the  Con- 
cepcion and  San  Lazaro  on  the  search  after  Mendoza  and  to  further  explore  to 
the  north.  The  first  was  under  Diego  Becerra,  with  Fortun  Ximenez  for  pilot, 
and  the  second  under  Hernando  Grijalva,  with  Martin  de  Acosta  for  pilot. 
The  two  vessels  a  few  days  afterward  separated  in  a  storm.     Grijalva,  stretch- 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  15 

irtj  to  the  wcj^t,  discovered  the  islands  of  Saint  Thomas,  now  the  Rcvilla  Gig:e- 
dos,  and  reached  near  the  latitude  of  San  Bias,  after  which,  in  the  spring  of 
1534,  he  returned  in  the  San  Lazaro,  and  came  to  anchor  at  Acapulco.  It 
Avas  in  tliis  voyage  that  the  old  captain  met  with  the  California  mermaid,  a  sea 
mammal  seldom  exceeding  30  inches  in  length  or  of  tlie  weight  of  seven  or 
eight  pounds. 

The  Conccpcion,  under  Becerra,  stretched  farther  north  along  the  coast  of 
Jalisco,  when,  his  crew  mutinying,  he  was  murdered  by  his  pilot,  Fortun  Xime- 
uez  :  the  scene  of  this  atrocity  must  have  been  in  the  vicinity  of  the  present 
^lazatlan,  as  Ximenez  immediately  after  stretched  directly  west,  and  came  to  a 
new  coast,  never  before  visited,  and  anchored  in  a  small  bay  which  they  called 
Santa  Cruz.  Here  Ximenez  and  20  of  his  men  were  killed  by  the  Indians, 
while  the  survivors  made  their  escape  in  the  Concepcion  with  many  pearls  and 
curious  things  obtained,  and  took  her  over  to  the  roadstead  of  Chiametla, 
which  is  set  down  now  on  maps  as  a  few  leagues  south  of  Mazathxn.  Here  she 
was  also  seized  by  De  Guzman  and  her  men  made  prisoners  ;  on  ascertaining 
which,  Cortcz  made  energetic  representations  to  the  Audieucia,  who  were  afraid 
both  of  himself  and  Guzman,  and  gave  him  no  satisfaction,  notwithstanding  he 
was  then  out  of  pocket  70,000  castellanos  in  gold,  by  his  various  sea  expedi- 
tions. 


FOURTH    VOYAGE    ORDERED    BY    CORTEZ,    IN    WHICH    HE    TAKES    COMMAND. 

Fired  with  indignity  at  such  outrages  on  his  rights,  he  assembled  an  army 
of  400  Spaniards  and  300  negroes,  mounted  and  on  foot,  and  reared  and  tore 
up  along  the  valleys  of  the  coast,  determined  to  punish  Guzman  and  his  minions ; 
sending  his  veszels,  the  Santa  Agueda  and  Santo  Tomas,  in  August,  1531, 
from  Tehuantepec  to  Chiametla,  where  he  recaptured  the  San  Lazaro  from  the 
party  of  Guzman  :  these  two  old  rovers,  however,  were  prudent  enough  not  to 
engage  in  pitched  battle. 

From  Chiametla,  on  the  15th  April,  1535,  he  sailed  with  his  fleet  to  the  west 
for  the  place  where  Ximenez  was  killed,  and  his  escaped  companions  had  brought 
such  fine  pearls.  On  the  1st  of  May  he  found  an  island,  called  by  him  Santia- 
go, probably  Ceralbo  or  Espiritu  Santo,  and  on  the  3d  came  to  anchor  in  the 
bay  where  Ximenez  and  his  men  were  killed  in  1533.  This  bay  is  the  same 
accepted  in  history  as  that  now  called  the  Bay  of  La  Paz,  but  which  Cortez 
named  the  Bay  of  Santa  Cruz,  which  was  solemnly  taken  possession  of  for  the 
crown  of  Spain,  Here  he  landed  with  130  men  and  40  horses,  and  sent  back 
two  of  his  vessels  to  Chiametla  to  bring  the  remainder  of  his  land  forces.  These, 
soon  returned  with  a  portion  of  the  forces,  and  were  immediately  dispatched 
back  to  bring  the  remainder,  from  which,  however,  only  one  returned,  the  other 
being  lost  in  the  succession  of  storms  then  prevailing.  Cortez  then  himself 
returned  to  Chiametla,  from  whence  he  again  landed  at  Santa  Cruz  after  the 
greatest  dangers,  and  just  in  time  to  prevent  his  forces  there  from  dying  of 
starvation.  Explorations  were  now  made  on  every  side  by  land  and  sea,  and 
so  twelve  months  passed  without  finding  any  great  cities  or  mines,  or  the  long- 
sought  strait.  His  men  were  now  discontented  and  mutinous.  His  wife, 
Juana  de  Zuniga,  hearing  he  was  wrecked  or  dead,  sent  a  vessel,  in  1537,  to 
Santa  Cruz  to  verify  the  truth,  with  the  news  that  Don  Antonio  de  Mendoza, 
the  new  Viceroy  of  Mexico,  had  arrived.  On  receiving  this  news,  Cortcz  imme- 
diately departed  in  one  of  his  vessels,  leaving  his  remaining  ships,  armaments, 
and  men  in  California,  under  the  command  of  Francisco  de  Ulloa.  On  the  way 
he  met  with  the  vessel  under  Hernando  Grijalva,  and  both  entered  the  port  of 
Acapulco,  about  April,  1537.  Ulloa,  finding  every  thing  going  on  bad  m  the 
settlement,  returned  with  all  his  expedition  to  New  Spain,  early  in  1538. 


16  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

THE    FIFTH     AND    LAST    VOYAGE     ORDERED    BY    CORTEZ THE    SEVEN    CITIES,    AND 

THE      GRAND      QUIVIRA,    CIBOLA,  AND     TOTONTEAC,    NORTH      OF     THE      GILA 

KING    TATARAX    WITH    CROZIER    AND    LONG    BEARD,    HOARY    AND    RICH. 

About  this  time  all  New  Spain  was  in  a  whirl  of  excitement  from  the 
arrival  of  Cabeza  de  A'^aca,  who  had  landed,  in  1527,  in  Tampa  Bay  in  Florida, 
and  had  wandered  with  several  companies  across  the  continent  until  they 
arrived  at  Culiacan  of  Sinaloa,  in  1536,  after  great  perils.  And  growing  out 
of  this  were  the  reports  of  Friar  Marcos  de  Noza,  who  with  some  companions 
had  wandered  from  Culiacan,  in  1539,  to  a  new,  strange  country  to  the  north, 
where  were  many  rich  countries  full  of  gold,  silver,  and  precious  stones,  called 
Cibola,  Totonteac,  and  Grand  Quivira,  and  in  those  countries  was  a  king, 
called  Tatarax  with  a  long  bcardi  hoary  and  rich,  who  worshipped  a  cross  of 
gold  and  the  image  of  the  Queen  of  Heaven.  This  country,  heard  of  also  by 
De  Vaca,  wa?  the  same  we  now  call  Central  and  North  Arizona,  and  Friar  IMar- 
cos  said  they  were  popiilous  in  many  peoples.  To  prove  this.  Viceroy  INIen- 
doza  set  on  foot,  in  1540,  the  expedition  of  Francisco  Vasquez  de  Coronado  to 
go  by  land,  who  got  up  as  high  in  New  Mexico  as  latitude  40°.  In  concert 
with  these  he  also  sent  Fernando  de  Alarcon  with  two  vessels,  who  proceeded 
up  the  gulf,  and  ascended  the  Colorado  beyond  the  Gila.  But  neither  of  these 
expeditions  found  the  great  cities  of  gold  nor  the  powerful  and  populous  king- 
doms. Excited  by  these  movements,  and  to  recover  himself  of  his  great  losses, 
Cortez  determined  to  prepare  another  expedition  to  find  out  the  great  kingdoms 
and  rich  peoples  of  the  north.  This  expedition  consisted  of  the  barks  Santa 
Agueda,  Santo  Tomas,  and  La  Trinidad,  which  were  placed  by  him  under  com- 
mand of  his  old  officer  Francisco  de  Ulloa,  who  sailed  from  Acapulco  on  the 
8th  of  July,  1539.  A*  few  days  out  at  sea  the  Santa  Agueda  broke  her  main- 
mast. After  repairing  at  the  port  of  Colima,  they  left  again,  and  shortly  after 
the  Santo  Tomas  sunk  at  sea  in  a  great  storm.  With  the  other  tw'O  vessels  he 
sailed  up,  as  would  seem,  on  the  Sonora  side,  to  the  head  of  the  gulf,  and  find- 
ing the  tw^o  shores  meet,  returned  down  along  the  peninsular  coasts  until  he 
came  to  anchor  in  his  old  port  of  Santa  Cruz  on  the  ISth  October,  1539. 
Sailing  out  on  the  29th,  he  steered  south,  and,  doubling  a  high  promontory, 
turned  liis  ships  north  along  the  coast  of  the  Pacific.  After  a  stormy  and  dan- 
gerous voyage,  attacked  by  Indians,  and  his  men  reduced  by  sickness,  he 
worked  his  way  north  as  far  as  30°,  and  on  the  20tli  January,  1540,  discovered 
the  island  of  Cedros  or  Cerros.  In  a  terrible  storm  hereabouts  the  vessels 
were  separated.  By  some  it  is  said  Ulloa  was  never  heard  of  afterward  nor 
liis  vessel,  while  the  Santa  Agueda  found  her  way  back  in  safety  to  Acapulco, 
•and  gave  the  first  accounts  of  the  Sea  of  Cortez  making  a  peninsula  of  the 
land.  Other  chroniclers,  as  Gomarro  and  Bernal  Dias,  say  Ulloa  returned  in 
safety  and  afterward  died  in  the  province  of  Jalisco. 

On  the  ocean  coast  were  found  no  great  countries  or  populous  kingdoms, 
nor  spice  islands,  nor  cities,  the  streets  whereof  were  paved  with  gold  and 
silver.  Francisco  Presciado,  an  officer  of  the  Santa  Agueda,  on  his  return  to 
Spain,  several  years  afterward,  published  a  history  of  this  voyage,  which  is  to 
be  found  in  llakluyt  and  Ramusio,  and  is  of  very  great  interest  in  California 
history.  Thus  was  a  name  given  to  the  land,  ancl  called  California ;  and  the 
gulf  Avithout  an  outlet  north  named  the  Sea  of  Cortez. 

DISCOVERY  OF  THE  RIVER  COLORADO,  AND  CONFIRMATION  MADE  THAT  CALIFORNIA 
WAS  A  PENINSULA  AND  NOT  AN  ISLAND NO  RICH  CITIES  OR  PEOPLES  FOUND. 

To  assist  the  expeditions  of  Vasquez  Coronado,  Viceroy  Mendoza  dispatched 
from  Acapulco,  on  the  31st  of  May,  1541,  Hernando  Alarcon,  with  the  barks 
San  Pedro  and  Santa  Catalina.  Sailing  along  the  Sonora  coast,  he  reached  in 
safety  the  head  of  the  gulf,  and  discovering  there  the   mouth  of  a  great  river. 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNLi.  17 

called  by  some  anterioi*  Spaniards  the  Eucn  Guia,  which  he  renamed  the  River 
of  Our  Lady  of  Bucna  Guia,  or,  as  he  elsewhere  terms  it,  the  River  Tisones  or 
lure-hrands  •  the  same  called  by  one  of  the  Pima  tribes  the  River  Tamosatzin^ 
and  by  the  Yuma  Indians  Haivhcclchatvot ;  the  river  Gila  is  called  by  them 
Haquisisecl.  In  boats  he  made  two  voyages  to  a  distance  of  some  250  miles 
up  the  stream,  where  high  momitains  and  rocks  shut  in  the  river.  He  fomid 
neither  great  cities  nor  gold  nor  diamonds,  but  made  note  for  the  first  lime  of 
the  dangerous  bores  and  overflows  from  the  river.  The  Viceroy  also  dispatched 
a  land  force  in  connection  with  Alarcon's  from  Culiacan,  under  ^lelchor  Dias  to 
explore  the  country  on  the  Sonora  side,  but,  after  passing  many  deserts,  and  meet- 
ing with  great  misfortunes,  he  returned  without  eft'ecting  any  thing  important. 

His  pilot,  Domingo  Castillo,  made  a  chart  of  both  coasts  of  the  gulf,  in 
which  the  connection  of  the  river  is  plainly  shown  for  the  first  time,  and  which 
still  exists  in  the  archives  of  Spain  and  Mexico.  This  map  was  published  by 
Archbishop  Lorenzano  at  Mexico  in  1770,  in  his  letters  of  Cortez.  Not  meeting 
with  any  of  Coronado's  parties  or  men,  Alaicon  returned  with  his  vessels  to 
Acapulco,  satisfied  that  he  had  got  four  degrees  higher  north  than  the  last  of 
that  of  Cortez.  But  the  viceroy,  vexed  at  his  want  of  success,  gave  Alarcon  the 
cold  shoulder,  and  he  died  soon  after  in  Mexico,  in  disgrace. 

CORTEZ  RETURXS  TO  SPAIN THE  GREAT  CONQUISTADOR  DIES  AN  HUMBLE 

CHRISTIAN  SINNER. 

Stung  to  the  quick  at  the  expeditions  which  Mcndoza  had  promoted  under 
Coronada  de  Noza,  Alvarado,  and  Alarcon,  which  all  invaded  his  rights  as  ade- 
lantado  and  admiral  of  the  South  Sea  countries,  Fernando  Cortez  returned  to 
Spain  in  1540,  to  get  relief  from  the  emperor  from  the  power  of  his  enemies, 
and  remuneration  for  his  losses.  After  attending  the  court  for  seven  years,  dis- 
gusted with  delays  and  broken  in  spirit,  the  great  captain  met  the  grim  con- 
queror of  all  in  his  own  bed  at  the  town  of  Castilleja  de  la  Cuosta  on  the  2d 
December,  1547.  His  body  was  afterward  removed  to  the  city  of  Mexico,  and 
buried  in  the  vault  of  a  chapel  built  with  his  own  funds.  He  was,  says  the  old 
chronicler,  a  man  truly  worthy  of  immortal  reputation,  his  zeal  most  ardent  for 
the  propagation  of  religion.  For  his  sins  he  was  chastised  by  Providence,  the 
just  avenger  of  the  weak,  who,  thus  humbling  him  by  an  old  age  of  troubles, 
mortifications,  and  losses,  enabled  him  to  meet  his  end  in  a  manner  becoming 
a  good  Christian,  and  lo  show  him  the  utter  vanity  of  human  riches  and  re- 
nown. 

The  great  conqueror  had  written  to  his  master  the  emperor  in  1522  : 
"  They  tell  me  that  Ciguatan  is  an  island  inhabited  by  women  without  any 
men,  although  at  certain  times  they  are  visited  by  men  from  the  mainland,  and 
if  the  women  bear  female  children  they  are  protected,  but  if  males  they  are 
driven  from  their  society.  They  also  tell  me  it  is  very  rich  in  pearls  and  gold,, 
respecting  which  I  shall  labor  to  obtain  the  truth,  and  to  give  your  majesty  a 
full  account  of  it,"  Thus  his  life  went  out.  He  had  fulfilled  his  appointed 
destiny ;  he  had  spent,  as  some  pretend,  what  would  equal  tliree  millions 
of  dollars  of  our  money  to  conquer  Califorrda.  The  xVmazonians  were  not  found, 
but,  centuries  after,  others  picked  up  the  gold  and  pearls.  He  merely  lighted 
the  way — he  bore  the  heat  and  burden  of  the  day,  he  perplexed  and  worried 
his  soul  till  his  head  was  gray,  and  others  were  to  step  iu  and  open  the  box  of 
concealed  treasures. 

VOYAGES  OF  VILLALODOS  AND  RODRIGUEZ  CABRILLO DISCOVERY  OF  ALTA 

CALIFORNIA. 

Pedro   Alvarado,    the    conqueror    of  Guatemala,     having   at    great   cost, 
assembled  a  fleet  of  twelve  vessels  at  the  port  of  Navidad  or  Natividad,  to 
second  his  land   expedition  in  connection  with  those  of  the  viceroy's  under.' 
2 


18  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

Coronado  and  Alarcon  to  outwit  tlie  enterprises  of  Cortez  to  the  north  and  west 
of  Mexico,  and  Alvarado  having  died  at  Ezatlan,  near  Guadalajara,  iii  1541, 
from  the  effects  of  a  fall  from  his  horse,  the  Viceroy  Mendoza  assumed  charge 
of  his  expeditionary  materials,  the  vessels  then  going  rapidly  to  destruction. 
Five  ships  were  repaired  and  put  under  the  charge  of  his  brother-in-law,  Ruy 
Lopez  de  Villalobos,  having  on  board  370  men,  who  was  dispatched  from  the 
port  of  Natividad  on  the  1st  of  November,  1542,  to  make  discoveries  and  con- 
quests in  the  Western  or  Philippine  Islands,  and  which  expedition,  from  numer- 
ous misfortunes,  came  to  an  untimely  end  ;  Villalobos  never  even  sighted 
the  coasts  of  California,  nor  came  within  200  miles  of  the  peninsula. 

On  the  2*7 th  June,  1542,  the  viceroy  despatched  two  more  of  Alvarado's 
ships,  named  San  Salvador  and  La  Vitoria,  from  the  port  of  Natividad  or  La 
Purificacion,  under  command  of  Juan  Rodriguez  Cabrillo,  a  Portugese  naviga- 
tor of  high  character,  then  serving  in  the  Spanish  navy.  Cabrillo  was  directed 
to  continue  the  discoveries  on  the  ocean  coast  above  Ulloa's  last  point  of  Cedros 
Island.  On  the  2d  June  he  says  he  got  a  "  sight  of  California,"  anchored  at 
"Puerto  San  Lucas"  on  the  5th,  doubled  the  land,  and  on  the  8th  came  to 
Punta  Trinidad  in  25° ;  about  the  20th  discovered  the  "  Puerta  de  la  Mada- 
lena;"  in  23  leagues  from  Madalena  found  a  great  bay,  which  he  called  Puerto 
de  Santiago,  in  2*7°  30' ;  five  leaguer?  farther  discovered  some  dangerous  rocks, 
called  by  him  Abreojos;  in  28°  found  a  port  called  by  him  Santa  Anna;  on 
27th  July  found  the  deep  bay,  Port  Fondo,  six  leagues  from  Santa  Anna;  on 
the  first  of  August  found  the  port  of  San  Pedro  Vincula  in  28°  30',  in  siglit  of 
"  Isla  de  Zedros,"  from  "  California  to  which  place  they  met  no  Lidians."  To 
the  southeast  of  Zedros  four  leagues,  found  the  island  San  Estcban,  beyond 
which  was  a  grand  bay  (or  enscnada),  probably  that  now  called  Sabastian  Vis- 
caino,  covered  in  places  with  immense  sea-weeds;  on  August  lOtli  took  in 
wood  and  water  on  Cedros  Island,  which  is  in  29°  ;  in  ten  leagues  farther, 
in  30°  short,  he  foiuid  the  fine  port  of  Santa  Clara;  on  the  15th  found  the 
Punta  del  Mai  Abrigo  in  30°  30' ;  and  ten  leagues  farther  on  found  the  island 
San  Bernardo.  Hereabouts  the  country  was  beautiful,  and  covered  with  many 
trees.  On  the  20th  August,  after  sailing  seven  leagues  from  San  Bernardo,  he 
came  to  Punta  del  Engano  (or  Deception),  in  3l°,  after  passing  Avhich,  ten 
leagues  farther,  on  the  22"d  August,  he  entered  a  beautiful  and  safe  harbor  in  31° 
30',  named  by  him  the  "Puei'to  de  la  Posesion,"  where  he  took  possession  of 
the  country  "  in  the  name  of  his  majesty,  and  the  illustrious  Sefior  Don  An- 
tonio de  Mendoza."  Here  he  stopped*  s(jveral  days,  and  took  in  wood  and 
water,  discovering  a  large  salina  near  by,  thi  Jmlians  he  met  with  telling  him 
by  signs  they  had  seen,  five  days'  journey  in  the  interior,  people  who  were 
clothed  and  armed  like  Cabrillo's  men,  and  had  maize' and  many  dogs,  on  which 
the  captain  gave  them  a  letter  to  convey  to  these  Spaniards ;  probably  they 
had  seen  the  men  of  Alarcon's  or  Coronado's  expeditions.  These  Indians  were 
anointed  with  a  kind  of  white  bitumen  or  asphaltum.  On  the  27th  August  he  left 
the  port,  and  two  leagues  farther  found  the  small  island  San  Augustin,  where  he 
was  compelled  to  anchor  from  a  heavy  storm.  Here  he  found  signs  of  people 
and  two  coAv's-horns,  also  great  numbers  of  drift-logs  of  immense  sizes,  measur- 
ing GO  feet  long,  and  taking  two  men's  stretched  arms  to  embrace  them,  which 
logs  appeared  to  be  of  cypress-wood. 

On  the  3d  September  he  left  the  island,  and  on  the  8th,  in  32°  30',  found  the 
Cape  San  IMartin,  near  which  he  discovered  a  small  lagoon  of  sweet  water,  and 
wliere  he  met  Avith  a  baud  of  forty  Indians,  who  gave  him  fish  and  the  roots  of 
maguey  roasted.  The  land  in  the  vicinity  of  this  cape  made  a  large  fine  valley, 
with  many  smaller  ones.  Leaving  this  place,  he  came  up  a  few  days  afterward,  m 
33°,  with' a  point  which  he  named  Cape  de  la  Cruz,  where  there  was  neither 
wood,  water,  nor  Indians,  but  after  passing  which,  he  says,  "  from  La  Califor- 
nia to  this  place  the  shores  are  all  very  sandy,  but  from  hence  commences  a 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  19 

country  of  diftorent  character  ami  mucli  better,"  On  the  l7th  September  they 
left  tliis  capo,  ami  six  leagues  tarther  on  discovered  the  tine  port  of  San  Mateo, 
in  33^  20',  passing  a  small  island  close  to  the  mainland.  Here  they  saw  again 
immense  numbers  of 'drift-logs,  and  large  flocks  of  animals  like  the  sheep  of 
Peru  (or  alpacas),  ■with  long  wool  and  small  horns,  "  do  un  xcme  en  luengo," 
or  lour  inches  long  and  an  incli  thick,  with  small  round  tails.  These  were  no 
doubt  what  are  now  known  as  the  antelopes  of  California,  as  they  were  fonmerly 
abundant  in  the  north  parts  of  the  peninsula. 

On  the  23d  he  left  San  Mateo,  and,  sailing  for  26  leagues  along  a  fertile- 
looking  coast  containing  beautiful  valleys  and  groves,  they  passed  three  small 
desert  islands  in  34°,  situated  three  leagues  from  the  mainland,  named  by  him 
Islas  Desiertas,  the  same  now  called  Las  Coronadas. 

On  Thursday,  the  28th  of  September,  about  six  leagues  distant  from  the 
islands  to  the  north-northwest,  Cabrillo  entered  a  beautiful  and  land-locked 
harbor,  which  he  named  San  Miguel,  now  known  as  San  Diego,  which  he 
fixes  in  34°  20',  and  where  he  remained  till  the  3d  of  October.  Here  com- 
mence the  iirst  discovery  and  the  primary  explorations  of  the  coasts  of  Alta 
California,  Cabrillo  having  passed  the  present  limits  of  the  peninsula. 

In  all  these  latitudes  notated  by  Cabrillo  it  is  to  be  borne  in  mind  that  his 
instruments  were  extremely  defective  both  for  observing  latitudes  and  measuring 
the  space  passed  over  the  water  daily  by  the  vessel.     For  instance  : 

San  Diego  in  1542  is  made  to  be  in  latitude 34'  20' 

U.  S.  Coast  Survey  by  Davidson  makes  it  in  1858. . .  .  32^  41' 


Excess  by  Cabrillo 1^  39' 

Or  say  100  miles  too  much  north.  The  Coast  Survey  instruments  being  the 
most  approved  of  modern  ones,  in  which  hut  trifling  errors  can  occur,  as  the  ob- 
servations are  made  on  shore,  makes  their  standard,  at  it  were,  indisputable. 

^-  The  most  of  the  geographical  names  inserted  by  Cabrillo  in  the  foregoing, 
and  those  given  by  him  in  his  explorations  to  the  north,  between  San  Diego  and 
Cape  Mendocino,  were  almost  entirely  ignored  by  Sebastian  Viscaino  in  his  voy- 
age of  1602,  for  what  reason  has  never  been  determined  ;  Viscaino  never  even 
alluding  to  Cabrillo's  services  in  his  account  given  in  Torquemada  and  Venegas. 
As  Cubrillo's  voyage  was  the  first  complete  reconnoissance  made  of  the  ocean 
coasts  of  Lower  California,  we  shall  here  insert  the  names  he  gave  and  those 
punctuated  by  Navarette,  in  his  remarks  on  Cabrillo's  voyage,  in  his  "  History  of 
Spanish  Explorations  on  the  Xoilh  Pacific  Coasts,"  and  as  Icnown  on  Spanish 
charts  in  1802,  premising  that  Navarette's  critique  on  this  celebrated  voyage  is 
found  very  meagre  and  defective  when  comparing  it  with  the  verbatim  original 
of  Cabrillo  in  Smith's  collection  of  1857,  which  occupies  twenty  times  more  type 
than  Xavarctte's  notations : 

Cape  San  Lucas  by  Cabrillo  in  1542 — C.  San  Lucas  by  Navarette  in  1802. 

Punta  Trinidad  by  Cabrillo  in  1542— Puuta  Trinidad  of  ^largarita  Island  in  1802. 

Puerto  de  la  Madalena  by  Cabrillo  in  1542 — Bay  of  Magdalena  in  1802. 

Santa  Catalina  y  Santiago  by  Cabrillo  in  1542— Las  Ab'reojos  Islets  in  1802. 

Santa  Anna  by  Cabrillo  in  1542 — Asuncion  Island  in  1802. 

Puerto  Fondo  or  S.  Pedro  Advincula  by  Cabrillo  in  1542— Port  San  Bartolomeo  in  1802. 

Isla  de  Cedros  or  Zedros  by  Cabrillo  in  1542 — Island  of  Cerros  in  1802. 

Mai  Abrigo  by  Cabrillo  in  1542 — Punta  de  Canoas  in  1802. 

San  Bernardo  Island  by  Cabrillo  in  1542 — Island  San  Geronimo  in  1802. 

Punta  Engano  (or  Deception)  by  Cabrillo  in  1542 — Cabo  Baxo  in  1802. 

Puerto  Posesion  by  Cabrillo  in  1542 — Bay  of  Las  Yirgenes  in  1802. 

San  Augustin  puerto  by  Cabrillo  in  1542— In  San  Martin  Island  in  1802. 

Cabo  San  Martin  by  Cabrillo  in  1542— Point  in  S.an  Quintin  Bay  in  1802. 

Puerto  San  Mateo  by  Cabrillo  in  1542— Bay  of  Todos  Santos  in  1802. 

Islas  Desiertas  by  Cabrillo  in  1542 — Las  Coronadas  in  1802. 

Puerto  San  Miguel  by  Cabrillo  in  1542 — Bay  of  San  Diego  in  1802. 


20  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

After  1802  many  of  the  geograpliical  tenus  of  Navarette  were  again  altered, 
leaving  this  matter  at  the  present  time  in  great  confusion. 


CHAPTER   IV. 

FURTHER  VOYAGES  AND  EXPLORATIOKS  AFTER  1543  AND  TO  1588. 

From  the  unsuccessful  results  of  the  explorations  of  De  Niza  and  Coronado 
by  land  and  the  voyages  of  Alarcon,  Ulloa,  and  Cabrillo  by  sea  to  find  the 
■wealthy  kingdoms  and  cities  to  the  north  and  west  of  Jalisco  and  Sinaloa, 
counterparts  of  those  of  Mexico  and  Peru,  and  because  no  strait  or  entrance  by 
water  had  been  found  leading  from  the  Pacific  to  the  Atlantic,  the  Spanish 
statesmen  came  to  the  conclusion  that  no  such  countries  were  in  existence,  except 
probably  those  to  the  north  of  40^  ;  and  it  appears  to  have  been  decided,  if  such 
were  known  to  other  nations,  it  would  be  detrimental  to  the  interests  and  policy 
of  Spain. 

The  next  mention  of  the  California  coasts  is  when  Andres  de  Urdaneta,  a 
mariner  by  profession  and  companion  of  Loyasa,  and  who  went  with  Miguel 
Legaspi  in  1564  to  conquer  the  Philippines,  was  sent  in  1565  as  a  pilot  of  a 
vessel  sent  from  thence  by  Legaspi  to  Mexico ;  at  this  time  TJrdanetta  had 
become  a  monk  of  the  order  of  Saint  Augustin.  TJrdanetta  steered  his  vessel 
up  north  as  high  as  43°  in  search  of  the  northwest  winds,  which  he  met  with, 
and  with  which  he  first  made  the  west  coast  of  America  near  Cape  Mendocino, 
and  then  dropping  down  the  line  of  the  coast  until  he  made  the  end  of  the  pen- 
insula or  the  country  of  Cortez,  and  so  stretched  off  to  the  cast  and  south  for 
Acapulco  :  he  is  not'knowuto  have  landed  in  any  part  of  California  above  or  below 
San  Diego.  His  derrotero,  or  course  drawn  off  on  a  chart,  was  used  by  the 
Spaniards  between  Manilla  and  Acapulco  for  a  hundred  years  afterward. 
After  the  year  1570  vessels  regularly  sailed  twice  a  year  between  Manilla  an.d 
Acapulco, "^following  the  route  laid  down  by  Urdaneta  to  Mendocino,  and  so  to 
Cape  San  Lucas  and  then  to  Acapulco,  and  in  going  from  Mexico  stretched  off 
from  Acapulco  to  the  w^est  till  they  made  Guam  and  the  Ladrones,  and  so  to  the 
Philippines. 

Alvaro  de  Mendano,  who  was  sent  by  the  Viceroy  of  Peru  in  1567  to  dis- 
cover the  Solomon  Islands  near  New  Guinea,  returned  to  Mexico  by  the  w-ay  of 
California,  and  anchored  near  Cedros  Island  iu  December  of  that  year,  from 
whence  he  departed  for  the  Mexican  coast,  and  thence  to  Lima,  where  he  an-ived 
in  the  spring  of  1558. 

In  1579"Sir  Francis  Drake,  after  capturing  a  rich  galleon  near  Payta  in  Peru, 
and  sacking  Guatulco,  above  Tehuantcpec,  and  getting  with  other  prizes  thereby 
nearly  two  millions  of  dollars  in  his  ship,  the  Golden  Hind,  stood  up  along  the 
coast  of  California,  and  anchored  near  Punta  Los  Reyes  in  June.  From  hence  he 
sailed  to  the  Philippines  and  Moluccas,  and  so  via  Cape  of  Good  Hope  to  Plym- 
outh in  England  in  September,  1580,  the  Golden  Hind  being  the  second  ship, 
and  Drake  the  first  Englishman,  who  had  circumnadgated  the  earth.  He  did 
not  touch  at  any  point  in  Lower  California. 

In  1582  Francisco  de  Galle  made  a  voyage  fi-om  Manilla  and  Macao,  and 
discovered  the  coast  of  California  in  37°  30',  which  was  entirely  bare  of  snow  ;  the 
sea  was  covered  with  branches  of  trees  and  vegetation  brought  down  by  great 
rivers;  this  was  likely  when  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Golden  Gate  after  heavy  rains. 
He  mentions  the  island  Cedros,  and  those  not  far  off  called  San  Augustin  and 
San  Martin,  and  afterward  Cape  San  Lucas,  from  whence  he  sailed  to  Acapulco, 
where  he  scut  an  account  of  his  voyage  to  the  viceroy. 

In  July,  4^*€,  Sir  Thomas  Cavendish  sailed  from  Plymouth,  in  England,  in 
a  fleet  equipped  at  his  own  expense,  consisting  of  the  Desire,  of  120  tons,  the 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  21 

Content,  of  GO,  and  the  Hugh  Gallant,  of  40  tons,  ■with  crows  amounting  to  123 
men,  t<i  carry  the  war  between  Spain  and  England  into  the  countries  beyond 
Cape  Iloni.  Having  bnrnt  and  sacked  several  towns  on  the  coasts  of  Chili, 
Pern,  and  Mexico,  and  captnred  many  ships  and  procured  great  treasures  there- 
by, he  obtained  notice  of  a  rich  Manilla  galleon,  and  determined  to  watch  for 
her,  and  sighted  Cape  San  Lucas  on  the  14th  of  October,  1587,  and  continued 
cruising  in  that  vicinity  till  the  4th  November.  He  now  had  only  the  Desire 
and  the  Content,  and  with  these  came  to  action  near  the  cape  on  this  last  date 
with  the  galleon  Santa  Ana,  of  700  tons,  commanded  by  Don  Tomas  do 
Alzola,  which  after  a  desperate  encounter  he  captured,  making  prize  of  "  122,000 
pesos  of  gold,"  or  as  some  say  the  value  of  $3,000,000  in  silver,  besides 
a  valuable  cargo  of  China  goods  amounting  to  forty  tons.  After  this  he  run 
his  vessels  into  the  harbor  called  then  Ar/uada  Sef/ura  or  Porto  Ser/uro,  and 
since  the  bay  of  San  Bernarbe,  a  few  miles  east  of  Cape  San  Lucas.  Here  he 
burnt  the  prize  and  liberated  his  prisoners,  who  numbered,  male  and  female,  190 
persons.  Taking  from  them  two  Japan  lads  of  20  and  17  years,  three  Manilla 
men,  and  a  Spanish  and  Portuguese  pilot  belonging  to  the  galleon.  Cavendish 
left  his  California  anchorage  on  the  19th  of  November  for  the  Philippines,  but  a 
day  or  two  out  the  Content  was  separated  from  the  Desire,  and  never  heard  of 
afterward ;  she  had  a  tempting  lot  of  gold,  silver,  and  other  treasures  aboard  of 
her,  gathered  on  the  west  coast,  and  probably  some  bay,  port,  or  island  of  Lower 
California  holds  her  undiscovered  bones  and  spoils  of  silver  and  gold  to  this 
day.  The  Spaniards  on  the  departure  of  Cavendish  saved  the  remnants  of  the 
Santa  Ana's  hulk,  and,  with  some  sea-gear  left  by  the  conquerors,  reconstructed 
her  and  made  their  way  to  Acapnlco,  and  gave  account  of  their  disaster  to  the 
viceroy. 

Cavendish,  having  cruised  among  the  Philippines  and  Moluccas  for  some 
"weeks,  finally  left  the  island  of  Java  in  March,  1588,  for  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hoj^e,  which  they  doubled  in  May,  and  finally  arrived  at  Plymouth  on  the  9th 
September,  1588,  after  an  absence  from  England  of  nearly  twenty-six  months. 
"  I  have,"  says  the  old  fellow,  "  navigated  along  the  coasts  of  Chili,  Peru,  and 
Nova  Spagna,  where  I  made  great  spoils  ;  I  burnt  19  ships,  small  and  great,  and 
all  the  villages  and  towns  I  landed  at  I  bnrnt  and  spoiled."  Master  Francis 
Pretty,  who  had  been  a  companion  of  Drake  in  the  Golden  Hind,  and  who 
wrote  an  account  of  that  voyage  at  the  great  admiral's  request,  was  also  an  offi- 
cer in  the  Desire  with  Cavendish,  and  likewise  wrote  a  history  of  this  second 
expedition.  Of  her  consort  he  makes  this  suggsstive  sentence  :  "  We  left  the 
Content  astern  of  us,  which  was  not  as  yet  come  out  of  the  road  (harbor),  and 
thinking  as  the  wind  blew  fair  from  the  E.  N.  E.  she  would  have  overtaken  us, 
we  lost  her  company  and  never  saw  her  afterward."  Li  view  of  Luconia,  while 
passing  through  the  Straits  of  Bernardino,  the  unhappy  Spanish  pilot  having 
been  detected  with  a  Avritten  letter,  was  suspected  as  a  spy,  and  by  order  of 
Cavendish  hung  at  the  yard-arm.  In  the  ship  Santa  Ana  was  the  Greek  pilot 
Juan  de  Fuca,  or  Apostolos  Valcrianos  of  Cephalonia,  not  mentioned,  hoAvever, 
in  the  voyage  of  Cavendish,  and  whose  identity  has  always  been  denied  in 
Spanish  histories,  who  says  he  lost  60,000  Spanish  ducats  of  his  own  goods  in 
the  Santa  Ana,  and  of  whom  we  shall  now  give  some  account. 

THE  DISCOVERIES  OF  JU AX  DE  FUCA TIIEY  ARE  DENIED  AS  APOCRYPHAL  FOR  OVER 

200    YEARS THE    STRAITS    OF    ANNIAN DE    FUCa's    IDENTITY  PROVEN    IN    1854. 

In  the  old  cosmographical  work  of  Richard  Ilakluyt,  of  a.  d.  IGOO,  there 
is  presen'ed  some  account  of  the  navigator,  who  is  said  to  have  first  made  known 
the  straits  separating  the  Puget  Sound  country  from  the  island  of  Vancouver. 
De  Fuca  says  he  was  robbed  of  his  goods  by  Cavendish,  when  the  latter  cap- 
tured the  Santa  Ana  near  the  Cape  of  California  in  1587.     lie  afterward  made 


22  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

his  way  in  'the  rebuilt  bark  to  Acapulco,  and  states  that  a  sbort  time  afterward 
he  was  ordered  as  pilot  to  join  a  fleet  of  three  ships  and  100  men,  sent  by  the 
Viceroy  of  Mexico  to  discover  and  fortify  the  Straits  of  Auuian  in  the  northern 
parts  of  the  South  Seas,  and  prevent  the  Enghsh  coming  from  the  Atlantic 
into  the  Pacific  to  plunder  the  countries  of  Nueva  Espana.  They  proceeded 
accordingly  to  the  Cape  of  California,  but  from  a  mutiny  among  the  soldiers 
of  the  vessels,  occasioned  by  the  misconduct  of  the  commander  of  the  fleet,  the 
results  were  fruitless,  the  expedition  returned  from  California  to  Mexico,  and 
the  captain  was  disgraced.  lu  the  year  1592  De  Fuca  was  himself  sent  from 
Acapulco  by  the  viceroy  as  commander  of  two  small  vessels  carrying  only 
mariners,  to  follow  on  and  improve  his  former  voyage  when  acting  as  pilot. 
He  sailed  along  the  coast  of  Nueva  Espana  and  California  until  he  came  to  the 
latitudes  between  47  and  48  degrees,  when  he  there  entered  into  a  great  strait, 
sailing  therein  for  more  than  twenty  days,  the  land  trending  sometimes  north- 
west, then  northeast,  and  also  east  and  southeastward,  and  that  he  passed  by 
divers  islands  in  that  strait,  and  that  it  was  narrower  at  the  entrance  than  it  was 
■ferther  inside  ;  and  that  at  the  entrance  of  the  said  strait  there  is  an  exceeding 
nigh  pinnacle  on  a  great  headland,  or  island,  like  a  spired  rock  or  a  pillar  there- 
on ;  and  that  he  sailed  through  that  strait  finding  it  wide  and  deep  enough 
everywhere,  and  that  he  saw  people  there  who  dressed  in  skins,  and  there  was 
in  those  countries  gold,  silver,  pearls,  and  other  rich  things,  and  that  the  said 
strait  was  about  30  to  40  leagues  wide  at  its  entrance.  Not  being  suflicicntly 
armed  to  oppose  the  natives,  he  then  returned  to  Acapulco  by  the  way  of  the 
Cape  of  California  in  the  same  year  (1592),  and  made  report  to  the  Aiceroy,  who 
sent  him  to  Spain  after  many  delays,  to  get  reward  of  his  majesty  the  king,  who 
gave  him  no  more  for  his  discoveries  than  did  the  viceroy. 

In  the  year  1791,  by  order  of  the  King  of  Spain,  the  two  vessels  Sutil  and 
Mejicana,  under  Galiano  and  Valdez,  were  dispatched  from  Mexico  to  continue 
the  explorations  of  Perez,  Martinez,  Bodega,  and  other  Spanish  oflicers,  made 
between  1774  and  1790,  and  to  verify  rumors  received  in  Mexico  that  the  long- 
doubted  Straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca  had  at  last  been  found  by  some  foreign  vessels 
trading  for  furs  on  the  coasts  to  the  north  of  California.  On  the  return  of  the 
two  vessels,  these  ofiicers  confirmed  the  report  that  such  straits  had  at  last  been 
found,  but  that  the  latitudes  stated  by  De  Fuca  were  too  high :  it  was  forgotten 
though,  in  1791,  that  all  the  observations  of  the  Spaniards  on  the  California 
coasts  were  with  defective  instruments,  which  from  1600  to  1750  made  their 
geographical  positions  from  60  to  100  miles  too  far  north.  The  accounts  of 
this  voyage  were  sent  to  Spain,  and,  by  orders  of  the  king,  were  put  into  the 
hands  of  the  celebrated  historian  Martin  Fernandez  de  Navarette.  This  emi- 
nent scholar,  after,  as  he  says,  diligent  search  into  the  archives  of  Spain  and 
Mexico  by  various  officers,  states  that  no  mention  was  ever  made  in  any  paper 
giving  the  name,  or  alluding  to  the  services,  of  the  said  Juan  dc  Fuca,  and  vt- 
terhj  discreditmg  the  helief  that  such  a  person  ever  lived.  Strange  to  say,  hov,- 
ever,  the  exceedingly  high  peak  or  pinnacle  near  the  entrance  of  these  straits, 
mentioned  by  the  Greek  pilot,  was  really  found  by  one  of  tlic  foreign  vessels, 
after  17S6,  and  to  this  day  it  goes  by  the  name  of  the  "Pillar  of  Juan  dc 
Fuca,"  and  may  be  seen  represented  in  Wilkes's  "Voyage  of  1841."  In  the 
year  1854  the  question  of  the 'existence  of  such  a  person  as  Juan  de  Fuca  was 
forever  set  at  rest.  The  author  of  this  compendium  of  Lower  California  his- 
tory asked  of  Mr.  York,  the  American  consul  at  Zante,  in  the  Ionian  Islands, 
if  there  existed  in  Cephalonia  any  person  who  bore  the  name  of  the  old  Greek 
pilot.  The  answer  to  this  was,  that  the  memory  of  such  a  person  was  well 
acknowledged  in  that  island,  and  that  he  left  descendants  and  descendants  of 
relatives  known  there  who  still  went  by  the  name  of  De  Fuca  or  Foca.  A  fall 
account  of  this  matter  may  be  found  in  the  September  and  October  (1859) 
numbers  of  "  Hutchings's  California  Mao-azine,"  and  the  most  of  the  nonsense 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  23 

wv'itton  by  Navarctto  and  other  Spanish  writers,  with  the  ti]rp;icl  sentences  of 
lluinhokit,  blown  to  the  wimls:  Jiiau  de  Foca's  <>;eneah)i>y  and  that  of  his  living 
descendants  are  as  well  known  there  in  18GG  as  those  of  tlic  oldest  families  of 
the  Ionian  Islands.  De  Fuea  was  70  years  old  when  he  died,  about  1G02,  and 
had  served  ou  board  the  King  of  Spain's  ships  in  the  Spanish  Americas  forty 
long  years. 

THE    FIRST    AND    SECOND    VOYAGES    OF    SEBASTIAN    VISCAINO. 

After  the  year  1580,  the  Dutcli  and  English  fillibustcr  expeditions,  grow- 
ing out  of  the  wars  of  the  Reformation  in  England  and  Holland,  began  to  fre- 
quent the  coasts  of  Peru  and  Mexico,  and  also  those  of  the  Philippine  Islands, 
and  committed  groat  havoc  on  the  Spanish  settlements,  and  captured  numbers 
of  the  king's  ships,  which  greatly  excited  the  attention  of  the  Government  and 
people  of  Spain,  who  were  lusciously  incHncd  to  lay  down  and  effeminatelv 
wallow  in  such  luxuriant  pastures  they  had  stumbled  on,  and  which  were  fast 
sapping  the  Spanish  vigor.  The  great  rendezvous  in  the  North  Pacific  up  to 
the  year  1720  was  tlic  Cape  of  California  and  the  bay  of  Pichilingue,  which 
last  is  an  arm  of  the  bay  of  La  Paz.  Here  they  traded  with  the  Indians  for 
pearls,  smuggled  on  the  west  coasts  of  Mexico,  and  laid  in  wait  for  the  annual 
galleons  between  Manilla  and  Acapulco,  of  which  they  made  several  captures, 
amounting  in  value  to  millions  of  dollars. 

Stimulated  by  these  daring  robberies  and  inroads  on  the  Spanish  domains, 
which  wei'e  fast  bringing  the  nation  to  disgrace,  the  ministers  of  King  Philip 
II.  were  directed  by  his  majesty  to  order  the  Viceroy  of  Mexico  to  explore 
the  coasts  of  California,  and  to  found  settlements  near  the  cape,  and,  if  possible, 
one  on  the  northern  coasts  below  Cape  Mendocino.  The  principles  involved 
were :  to  aid,  recruit,  and  refit  the  Manilla  galleons,  which  now  came  down  the 
coast  annually ;  to  occupy  the  country  as  part  of  his  majesty's  domain  of  New 
Spain ;  to  spread  the  knowdedge  of  the  Christian  religion  among  the  Indian 
tribes,  and,  if  possible,  find  out  if  some  rich  countries  did  not  exist  above  40°, 
which  by  mistake  had  not  been  reached,  and  also  "  to  endeavor  the  discovery 
of  the  Straits  of  Annian,"  which  were  rumored  to  pass  through  the  land  in  the 
north  of  California  from  the  South  Seas  to  the  Atlantic  at  the  cod-fisheries  of 
Newfoundland. 

The  Viceroy  Gaspar  de  Zuniga,  Count  de  Monterey,  selected,  to  command 
this  new  expedition  and  carry  out  the  king's  orders,  Sebastian  Viscaino,  who 
had  acquired  a  high  character  in  vaiious  services  of  his  majesty  in  Mexico  and 
the  South  Sea:>.  In  1596  he  was  dispatched  from  Acapulco  with  three  vessels, 
having  on  board  four  Franciscan  friars,  to  make  a  settlement  in  the  country  of 
California  found  by  Fernando  Cortez,  where  he  arrived  after  touching  at  the 
isles  of  Mazatlan.  At  the  isles  of  Mazatlan  50  of  his  men  deserted,  and  Vis- 
caino stretched  across  the  mouth  of  the  gulf  and  landed  first  at  the  bay  of  San 
Sebastian,  and,  not  finding  this  suitable,  went  farther  up  to  the  bay  of  Santa 
Cruz,  where  Cortez  had  made  his  colony  in  1537,  and  at  which  he  found  many 
remains.  This  bay  of  Santa  Cruz,  or  Puerto  de  Cortez,  is  said  to  be  the  same 
now  known  as  the  bay  of  La  Paz,  the  name  given  to  it  by  Viscaino  from  the 
peaceable  character  of  the  Indians,  who  here  received  him  with  good-will. 
They  found  in  the  seas  near  by  fish  of  all  kinds  in  the  greatest  abundance,  and 
pearl  oysters  very  plentiful.  One  of  his  vessels  was  dispatched  up  the  gulf 
some  100  leagues  to  make  further  explorations,  on  returning  from  which  a  body 
of  50  of  the  men  were  attacked  by  a  large  number  of  Indians,  who  killed  19 
of  the  men  and  wounded  all  the  rest ;  the  enemy,  robbing  the  dead  soldiers, 
decked  themselves  in  their  clothes  and  arms,  and  danced  defiance  to  the  invad- 
ers in  sight  of  the  ship.  On  arriving  at  La  Paz,  where  he  had  stopped  two 
months,  Viscaino,  finding  his  provisions  running  low,  his  houses  being  burnt, 
and  his  shipping  getting  out  of  repair,  concluded  to  discontinue  the  enterprise, 


24  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

as  too  risky  for  liis  means  and  material,  and,  embarkino-  his  forces,  amved  at 
Acapulco  in  October,  .1596,  During  their  stay  in  California,  the  four  priests 
made  diligent  efforts  to  instruct  the  Indians  in  religion,  and,  with  the  humanity 
and  prudence  of  Viscaino,  succeeded  in  making  them  friends  to  the  new 
visitors, 

Philip  II.  having  died  in  1598,  his  successor,  Philip  III,,  in  1599,  and 
12  months  after  the  death  of  his  father,  directed  the  Count  de  Monterey, 
still  acting  as  viceroy,  to  dispatch  Viscaino  on  a  second  expedition,  but 
this  time  to  explore  the  ocean  or  extra  coasts  of  California,  as  it  was  said  that 
a  ship  had  lately  passed  from  Newfoundland  through  the  Straits  of  Annian  to 
the  South  Seas,  and  his  majesty  determined  to  occupy  the  countries  thereaway 
by  Spaniards.  Some  30  months  afterward,  every  thing  being  ready,  on  the  5th 
of  May,  1602,  Viscaino  sailed  from  Acapulco  with  a  fleet  of  four  vessels  for 
this  expedition  :  to  wit,  the  San  Diego,  termed  also  the  Capitana,  or  Viscaino's 
flag-ship;  the  Santo  Tomas,  called  also  the  Almirante,  under  Toribio  Gomez  de 
Corvan,  second  in  command;  the  third  was  a  smaller  one,  called  the  Three 
Kings,  under  Estevan  Lopez,  with  whom  was  Ensign  Martin  de  Aguilar,  and  a 
barco  longo,  or  long  boat,  for  entering  bays  and  rivers  to  take  soundings  and 
surveys,  which  was  left  behind  afterward  at  San  Bernabe  Bay.  On  board  these 
vessels  the  viceroy  sent  three  Franciscan  friars  of  the  Carmelites,  Fathers  Andres 
de  la  Asuncion,  Thomas  de  Aquino,  and  Antonio  de  la  Ascencion ;  Ascencion 
kept  a  journal,  and  afterward  wrote  a  history  of  the  voyage.  There  were  also 
several  other  noted  officers,  military  and  naval,  who  were  ordered  to  join  the 
expedition,  among  v/hom  is  mentioned  Geronimo  Martin,  a  great  cosmographer 
and  draughtsman,  who  survived  and  was  much  employed  afterward  on  the  pub- 
lic works  in  the  City  of  Mexico;  Alonzo  Pesquero,  who  is  stated  to  have 
served  with  Magellan,  which  must  be  accepted  as  a  good-for-nothing  assertion, 
as  Magellan's  voyage  of  1519  was  then  83  years  past,  which  would  make  Pes- 
quero either  a  child  in  1519,  or  over  100  years  old  in  1602;  Antonio  Floresand 
Francisco  Bolanos,  celebrated  pilots,  Bolanos  having  been  in  the  San  Augustin 
galleon  with  Sebastian  Cermenon  when  wrecked  near  San  Francisco  Bay  in 
1595;  an  ensign,  Martin  de  Aguilar,  whose  name  became  famous  for  250  years 
as  giving  title  to  a  great  river  beyond  Cape  Mendocino,  leading  to  the  Atlantic, 
and  who  appears  to  have  had  command  of  the  frigate  Los  Reyes,  with  the 
pilots  Florez  and  Lopez. 

The  expedition  sailed  in  May,  and  arrived  near  the  Mazatlan  Islands  early 
in  June,  from  whence  they  departed  for  California,  and  on  the  14th  June  an- 
chored in  the  place  where  Cavendish  had  burnt  the  Santa  Ana,  and  to  which 
Viscaino  gave  the  name  of  San  Bernabe,  referred  to  before  in  our  account,  and 
so  called  to  this  day  in  many  modern  charts,  and  which  is  the  same  as  the  Puerto 
Seguro  of  Cavendish. 

At  this  place  fish  of  all  kinds  were  found  in  such  abundance  that  boats 
could  be  loaded  with  very  little  labor,  and  pearl  oysters  strewed  the  shores  in 
such  unaccountable  quantities  as  to  make  the  beach  appear  like  an  immense 
pavement  of  brilliant  mosaics;  game,  wood,  and  water  were  also  in  abundance, 
and  the  Indian  population  was  civil  and  numerous. 

After  four  attempts  to  sail  out  of  San  Bernab6  and  frustrated  by  the 
northwest  winds  and  fogs,  the  fleet  finally  got  out  on  the  5th  July,  and  passed 
the  highlands  northwest  of  the  cape,  known  as  the  Sierra  Enfadosa,  and  on  the 
20th  Viscaino  brought  his  vessel  to  anchor  in  the  great  bay  of  La  Magdalena, 
discovered  by  Cabrillo,  and  some  ocean  points  of  which  were  mentioned  by 
Ulloa.  The  bay  was  found  to  be  very  spacious,  and  populated  with  numerous 
rancherias  of  docile  Indians,  and  abounded  in  immense  shoals  of  fish,  whales, 
pearl  oysters,  seals  of  all  kinds,  muscles,  and  other  marine  animals.  On  the  28th 
July  they  left  the  bay,  above  which  the  land  gradually  fell  down  into  a  pleasant 
and  level  country,  the  mountains  retiring  far  inland,  and  on  the  30th  passed  near 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  25 

to  the  month  of  a  river  with  dangerous  breakers.  This  fact  has  been  often 
doubted,  but  recent  explorations  of  that  vicinity,  up  to  1864,  sliow  tliat 
there  are  tlirec  streams  above  Map;dalena,  Avhich  in  the  lointer  season  are  full  to 
the  sea.  A  short  distance  above  this,  they  found  a  large  bay,  named  by  them 
from  the  immense  numbers  of  whales  seen,  Baja  de  Balleiias,  in  the  position  of 
■which  no  two  maps  or  charts  agree :  it  was  inhabited  by  myriads  of  sea-birds, 
and  all  kinds  of  shell  and  scale  tish  were  found  in  the  greatest  abundance  ;  pearl 
oysters  were  also  found  here,  which  seems  to  be  their  northern  limits.  Some 
eight  leagues  above  this,  they  came  to  an  island  they  called  San  Roque,  on  the 
sfst  July,  and  to  another  one  on  the  5th  August,  called  Asuncion,  which  seems 
to  be  the  same  as  those  situated  a  few  leagues  below  the  present  Bartolome  or 
Turtle  Bay.  The  same  abundance  of  fish  and  marine  animals  was  met  with 
here,  and  on  shore  they  found  a  large  saliua.  Passing  by  a  very  high  mountain 
above,  of  bare  and  naked  rocks  of  varied  and  beautiful  formations,  which  they 
named  the- Sierra  Pintada,  or  painted  mountain,  where  great  mines  of  gold  and 
silver  were  supposed  to  be  :  this  mountain  they  were  a  week  in  passing,  which 
on  weathering,  they  passed  the  island  of  Natividad  of  Cabrillo,  and  came  to 
anchor,  on  the  19th  of  August  under  the  Isle  of  Cedros.  Near  San  Bartolome, 
they  met  with  immense  quantities  of  bitumen  of  an  amber  color,  which  was 
likely,  from  the  beds  of  asphaltum  said  to  abound  in  that  vicinity,  and  which 
they  say  had  a  veiy  bad  smell :  this  fact  was  also  mentioned  by  Cabrillo.  The 
weather  was  so  bad  at  these  places,  then  the  last  days  of  August,  that  he  left  and 
returned  to  Isle  Cedros  several  times,  from  the  prevalence  of  the  northwest 
winds,  and  they  were  constantly  being  separated  from  the  other  ships.  Cedros 
Island  was  found  covered  with  trees  of  pine  and  cedar,  and  inhabited  by  numbers 
of  bold  Indians :  to  the  north  and  east  an  immense  bay  formed,  which  is  now 
named,  and  generally  acknowledged  in  geography,  as  the  bay  of  Sebastian  Yis- 
caino,  and  not  that  just  north  of  Magdalena  Bay,  as  located'  by  De  Mofras  and 
others.  On  the  9th  September  they  left  the  island,  steering  northwest  toward 
the  mainland,  and  met  with  the  Isle  Genizas  ;  shortly  afterward,  on  the  mainland, 
a  bay  called  by  them  San  Hypolito,  surrounded  by  a  very  beautiful  countrv, 
near  which  is  situated  at  present  the  ex-Missions  of  La  Rosaria  and  Santo  Do- 
mingo, the  bay  appearing  to  be  the  same  sometimes  called  San  Francisco,  and 
now  known  as  Las  Yirgenes ;  four  leagues  from  which  was  the  bay  of  Santos 
Cosmo  and  Damian,  near  the  shore  of  which  was  a  large  fresh-water  lake  and 
with  a  fine  level  country  in  the  neighborhood,  which  appears  to  answer  to  the 
present  bay  of  San  Quintin.  In  this  vicinity  they  passed  by  the  Mesas,  or  table- 
lands, of  San  Cyprian,  which  appear  to  be  the  same  as  the  curious  five  Hum- 
mocks of  Vancouver  (l  792),  forming  five  distinctly  separated  hills  rising  from 
level  lands,  not  far  from  which  is  the  Cape  Engano  of  Cabrillo  and  Viscaino,  sup- 
posed to  be  the  same  as  Cape  Colnett  of  the  present  maps.  The  greatest  con- 
fusion obtains  in  this  part  of  Viscaino's  account,  and  his  chart,  published  by  Na- 
varette  in  1802,  gives  scarcely  any  assistance  in  identifying  his  numerous  anchor- 
ages ;  this  may  be  owing  to  the  bad  weather  he  had  continually  experienced. 
Passing  the  islands  San  Ger6nimo,  Cenizas,  Pajaros,  and  San  Ililario,  they  came 
to  the  bay  of  San  Simon  and  San  Jude,  placed  now  in  the  vicinity  of  the  ex- 
Mission  of  San  Vicente,  where  the  Indians  were  very  troublesoine,  and  this 
character  they  bore  as  late  as  1816,  when  they  rose  in  'rebellion.  On  the  first 
of  November,  Viscaino  left  this  bay,  and  proceeding  a  few  leagues  above,  came 
to  another  large  bay,  surrounded  by  lofty  mountains,  which  they  named  tlie  bay 
ofTodos  Santos,  a  name  which  it  retains  to  this  day.  Shortly  afterward,  on  the 
5th,  they  discovered  the  Coronadas  Rocks,  called  Islas  Desiertas  by  Cabrillo,  and 
a  short  distance  north,  on  the  lOth  of  December,  they  entered  a  famous  port, 
called,  by  Viscaino,  San  Diego,  which  is  the  San  Miguel  of  Cabrillo  as  now  ac- 
cepted in  history. 

Thus  ended  the  third  great  exploration  of  the  ocean  coasts  of  Lower  Califor- 


26  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

nia,  VisCcaino  verifying  tLe  former  accounts  of  Ulloa  and  Cabrillo  and,  making 
a  chart  of  tlie  coast,  Avhicli,  though  full  of  errors  and  interpolations  by  others,  re- 
mains substantially  the  same,  with  all  its  grievous  faults  and  oinissions  which  have 
caused  the  loss  of  several  ships,  as  is  used  by  mariners  in  1867. 

Taking  his  departure  from  San  Diego,  the  expedition  was  employed  from 
the  20th  November,  1602,- to  the  20th  January,  1603,  in  exploring  the  coasts  as 
far  up  as  43°,  or  the  vicinity  of  the  present  River  Umpqua.  His  second  in 
command,  Gomez  de  Corvan,  was  dispatched  from  Monterey  port,  in  the  Santo 
Tomas  or  Almirante,  on  the  20tli  December,  1602,  with  the  Padre  Tomas  de 
Aquino  and  a  large  number  of  Viscaino's  men,  who  had  been  reduced  by  the 
scurvy  and  unwholesome  provisions ;  they  had  lost  some  30  men  at  San  Diego 
and  Monterey,  and  on  the  passage  up  the  coast  above  Isle  Cedi-os.  The  num- 
ber of  men  who  formed  the  seamen  and  military  of  the  three  ships  is  not  stated 
in  any  accounts  which  have  come  down  to  us,  but,  according  to  the  Spanish 
equipments  of  the  times,  and  the  extra  care  taken  by  the  viceroy  in  fitting  it 
out,  it  is  very  likely  they  numbered  not  less  than  300  persons. 

Viscaino  missing  his  consort  near  Cape  Mendocino,  and  experiencing  con- 
tinual foul  weather,  with  his  men  reduced  by  sickness  and  privations,  headed 
his  ship,  the  San  Diego,  for  the  south,  on  his  return  to  Mexico.  The  tender,  or 
Three  Kings  (Tres  Reyes),  on  board  of  which  were  Antonio  Flores,  belonging  to 
Avilas,  aAd  Estevan  Lopez,  the  two  pilots,  and  Martin  de  Aguilar,  the  military 
officer,  belonging  to  INIalaga,  on  separating  from  the  other  vessel,  was  blown 
farther  north,  as  mentioned  before,  and  after  discovering  the  river  and  cape,  still 
marked  on  many  maps  and  charts  with  Aguilar's  name,  and  finding  they  had 
got  above  the  point  mentioned  in  the  viceroy's  instructions,  and  experiencing 
the  same  disasters  as  Viscaino's  vessel,  headed  south,  on  the  20th  January,  to 
look  for  the  San  Diego,  and  get  home  again.  After  continual  hardships  and  suf- 
ferings, the  two  vessels  did  not  meet  again  till  arriving  at  Acapulco  in  April, 
1603,  where  the  Santo  Tomas,  under  De  Corvan,  had  anchored  only  a  few  duxjs 
before,  with  no  more  than  himself  and  two  other  men  fit  to  do  duty  ;  the  Tres 
Reyes  had  been  brought  in  by  Estevan  Lopez,  one  of  her  two  pilots,  as  De  Agui- 
lar and  Flores  both  died  before  hnr  return  to  Acapulco.  The  authorities  for  the 
voyage  say  48  men  died  from  scurvy  and  other  infirmities:  how  many  men  iu 
all  were  aboard  the  vessels  is  not  stated. 

On  the  viceroy's  receiving  notice  of  the  arrival  of  Viscaino's  vessels,  orders 
were  sent  to  take  every  care  of  the  officers  and  men.  On  their  recovery,  they 
proceeded  to  the  city  of  Mexico,  where,  on  the  29th  April,  1603,  they  were  re- 
ceived with  every  respect  by  the  Count  de  Monterey,  at  the  palace  of  Chapulte- 
peque,  and  all  werd  rewarded  and  promoted,  says  old  Torqucmada,  "  to  their  entii'e 
satisfaction  and  according  to  their  respective  pretensions."  Viscaino,  who  seems 
to  have  been  a  man  eminent  for  enterprise  and  of  the  highest  character,  shortly 
afterward  made  application  for  another  fleet  to  continue  his  surveys  above  his 
northern  discoveries  ;  but  the  viceroy,  not  having  sufficient  power  to  gratify  Ins 
wishes,  sent  him,  with  many  recommendations,  to  Spain,  where  he  arrived,  and 
was  received  with  great  favor  by  the  king,  who  ordered  his  plans  to  be  laid  be- 
fore the  High  Council  of  State.  These  awful  hidalgos,  thinking  the  risks  too 
great,  from  the  disasters  experienced  by  Viscaino,  on  his  two  expeditions  of  1596 
and  1602,  were  not  in  a  hurry  to  "  rush  things;"  the  old  sailor,  in  great  discour- 
agement, returned  to  Mexico,  which  seems  to  have  been  liis  home,  and  in  which 
city,  it  is  stated,  he  died  in  tiie  latter  part  of  1606.  For  after  the  authorities  had 
digested  his  propositions  for  three  years,  it  was  concluded,  by  the  king  in  coun- 
cil, to  accept  them,  and  an  order,  dated  the  19th  August,  1606,  was  sent  to  the 
viceroy  to  find  him  out  again,  and  give  him  another  fleet  for  a  new^  expedition 
to  California.  This  kindness  being  frustrated  by  Viscaino's  death,  the  whole 
aflair  fell  to  the  ground,  and  nothing  material  was  effected  on  the  northern  coasts 
till  after  1774,  or  164  years  after  Viscaino  left  this  world,  when  the  Spanish 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  27 

nionarcliy  found  that  it  Avould  have  vastly  aggrandized  itself  if  it  had  followed 
the  counsels  of  the  old  sailor.  By  some  of  the  Spanish  writers,  Yiscaino  is 
said  to  have  been  a  native  of  Biscay,  whose  people  are  avcU  known  for  their 
industry,  enterprise,  and  maritime  spirit,  and  commonly  called  Basques. 

It  is  to  be  observed  that  there  is  the  greatest  confusion,  contradiction,  and 
ambiguity,  with  innumerable  typographical  errors,  in  all  the  printed  accounts 
of  Viscaino's  expedition  as  contained  in  Torquemada,  Vencgas,  Xavarette,  Hum- 
boldt, De  Mofras,  and  numberless  other  writers,  who  treat  of  his  services,  and 
this  assertion  holds  good  Avith  tenfold  force  on  many  of  his  geographical  posi- 
tions; besides,  instead  of  mentioning  in  the  relation  the  name  of  each  vessel, 
the  utmost  perplexities  occur  in  the  frequent  use  of  the  terms  "  Oapitana,"  the 
"  Almirante,"  the  "  Frigata,"  the  "  Tender,"  as  employed  on  this  or  that 
service,  all  through  the  narrative.  Not  only  are  his  distances  of  sailing  from 
day  to  day  full  of  uncertainties  and  evident  errors,  but  his  latitudes  are  from 
60  to  80  miles  too  for  noilh  of,  or  many  miles  south  of,  the  hydrographical 
observations  made  by  European  and  American  surveyors,  between  1825-1866. 
This  was,  of  course,  to  be  expected  from  the  imperfect  nautical  instruments  of 
those  days;  nevertheless,  writers  are  found  presumptuous  enough  and  lazy 
enough  to  pass  off  their  crude  windities  on  the  world  of  letters  up  to  this  1867, 
as  if  they  had  carefully  studied  the  results  of  his  Surveys.  This  is  particularly 
the  case  as  regards  the  Pacific  coasts  of  the  peninsula,  where  the  bay  of  Vis- 
caino  is  set  down  in  different  charts  over  100  miles  out  of  the  way  of  its  gen- 
erally accepted  position  as  eastward  of,  and  contiguous  to,  Cedros  Island.  Thus 
San  Diego,  which  is  established  noiv  at  32°  41',  is  placed  by  Viscaino  in  32^  ; 
and  Monterey,  which  is  now  in  36°  36',  is  set  down  by  him  in  37°.  The 
manuscript  accounts  and  cbarts  of  Viscaino  remain  to  this  day  in  the  archives 
of  Spain  and  Mexico,  and,  singular  to  say,  the  Spanish  Government  has  never 
allowed  them  to  be  printed  in  full,  at  least  in  no  book  known  of  in  the 
State  of  California  in  1867.  As  Mexico  has  but  a  trifle  of  maritime  commerce, 
and  the  State  of  California  an  immense  one,  rapidly  running  into  the  hundreds 
of  millions,  humanity,  science,  and  traflac  urgently  call  for  some  basis  by  which 
Mexico  and  the  United  States  could  unite  to  prosecute  a  thorough  hydrograpb- 
ical  survey  of  tlie  coasts  of  the  gulf  and  the  peninsula  of  California. 


CHAPTER  V. 

LOWER     CALIFORNIA     ADVEXTL'RES     FROM    1603    TO    1700— ARDEXT     PURSUIT    OF 

PEARLS. 

In  the  year  1616  Don  Juan  Iturbi,  with  two  vessels,  titted  at  his  own  ex- 
pense, left  Acapulco  with  the  viceroy's  license,  to  make  further  explorations  in 
California,  and  to  tish  for  pearls.  One  of  his  vessels  was  taken  by  a  Dutcb 
fillibuster,  whose  rendezvous  was  at  the  Pichelingues  in  La  Paz  Bay ;  with  the 
other  he  ascended  as  high  as  the  River  Tizones  or  the  present  Colorado.  Meet- 
ing with  many  disasters,  he  was  obliged  to  put  into  the  harbor  of  Ahome,  at 
the  mouth  of  Rio  Fuerte,  where  he  was  relieved  by  the  Jesuit  Father  Perez  de 
Kibas,  the  author  of  the  curious  old  chronicle  called  "  Triumphs  of  the  Faith." 
After  an-iving  at  xVcapulco  he  went  to  Mexico,  and,  showing  the  beautiful  pearls 
lie  had  procured  in  the  gulf,  filled  the  city  with  a  whirl  of  excitement.  One  of 
these  pearls  was  valued  at  900  Spanish  crowns,  and  many  of  the  finest  were 
sent  to  Spain,  from  whence  their  fame  spread  throughout  all  Europe.  About 
this  time  many  voyages  were  made  in  small  vessels  from  the  ports  in  Sinaloa 
and  Jalisco  to  dive  for  pearls  or  get  them  from  the  Indians  ;  and  one  Antonio 
del  Castillo,  of  Chiametla,  accumulated  an  immense  fortune  in  a  few  years. 

In  March,  1632,  Captain  Francis  Ortega,  through  some  high  representa- 
tions made  at  Madrid  by  Don  Antonio  Bastan,  obtained  a  license  from  the 


28  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

viceroy  for  pearl-diving  and  colonizing  in  California.  On  board  his  vessel 
of  70  tons  went  tlie  priest  Diego  de  la  Nava,  appointed  by  the  Bishop  of 
Guadalajara  as  Vicar  of  California,  He  returned  in  June  succeeding,  with 
a  large  quantity  of  valuable  pearls,  obtained  between  La  Paz  and  San  Bernabe 
Bays,  which  so  greatly  pleased  the  viceroy  that  he  was  allowed  to  make  other 
voyages  in  1633  and  1634,' in  both  of  which  he  was  successful  in  pearl-trading. 
Underhandedly  his  pilot,  Estevan  Carbonelli,  obtained  a  license  from  the  Gov- 
ernment to  prosecute  a  voyage  on  the  same  intent  in  1636,  but  returnino- 
unsuccessful,  became  an  object  of  ridicule  and  disgrace. 

In  Ortega's  last  expedition  went  Padre  Nava  and  another  priest,  named 
Juan  de  Zuniga,  which,  it  seems,  was  at  the  suggestion  of  Ortega,  a  man  of 
character  and  prudence,  Avho  was  desirous  to  Christianize  the  Indians,  and  to 
mate  a  colony  at  the  bay  of  La  Paz,  with  soldiers  from  the  posts  in  Sinaloa. 

The  Duke  of  Escalona,  the  viceroy,  in  1642,  ordered  De  Canas,  governor 
of  Sinaloa,  to  explore  the  coasts  of  California  with  a  view  to  founding  a  colony. 
In  this  voyage  went  Jacinto  Cortez,  a  Jesuit  missionary  of  Sinaloa,  who  has 
left  an  account  that  the  expedition  went  to  La  Paz,  and  found  the  Indians  ex- 
tremely docile,  and  obtained  numbers  of  fine  pearls,  which  were  sent  to  the 
viceroy. 

On  the  viceroy's  return  to  Spain,  he  induced  Philip  IV.  to  order  a  new 
expedition  of  conquest  and  colonization  under  Admiral  Poilel  de  Casanate. 
In  1643  Count  Salvaticrra,  the  successor  of  Escalona,  efficiently  aided  the 
admiral  in  his  plans,  and  three  or  four  vessels  were  got  ready  at  Acapulco  and 
the  neighboring  ports  to  carry  out  the  king's  orders.  In  this  fleet  vrent  again 
Father  Cortez  and  another  Jesuit,  named  Andres  Baes,  as  missionaries  to  in- 
struct the  Indians  and  as  chaplains  of  the  expedition,  the  viceroy  having  especially 
requested  the  superior  of  the  Mexican  Jesuits  to  do  so.  On  arriving  at  the 
ports  of  Sinaloa  he  was  instructed  to  convoy  the  Manilla  galleon  to  Acapulco 
from  the  Pichilingue  rovers  in  the  gulf,  which  he  effected  in  safety.  On  com- 
pletion of  this  and  on  his  returning,  two  of  his  ships  were  burnt  on  the  coast 
of  Mexico ;  but  not  discouraged,  he  soon  equipped  two  others,  and  in  1648, 
accompanied  by  the  two  Jesuits,  landed  in  California.  While  exploi'ing  the 
coasts  for  the  site  of  a  colony,  orders  were  sent  him  again  to  convoy  the  Ma- 
nilla galleon  from  the  Dutch  rovers  who  now  had  become  exceedingly  bold,  and 
greatly  harassed  the  Spanish  colonies  on  the  Pacific.  On  I'caching  Acapulco, 
the  further  prosecution  of  this  enterprise  was  suspended,  and  the  admiral  was 
promoted  to  be  captain-general  of  the  province  of  Chili. 

The  king,  in  1665,  having  ordered  a  further  prosecution  of  the  colonization 
of  California,  the  viceroy  appointed  Captain  Bernal  de  Pinadero  to  undertake 
it,  provided  it  could  be  effected  without  outlays  from  the  public  purse,  and 
agreements  were  formally  drawn  up  to  this  efiect.  Two  small  vessels  were 
built  at  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Vanderas,  now  in  Jalisco,  and  on  arriving  in 
California,  went  to  work  with  a  voracious  greed  in  pearl-diving,  in  which  they 
treated  the  Indians  with  great  barbarity.  Large  quantities  of  the  finest  pearls 
were  procured,  Avhicli  in  the  division  made  such  sanguinary  quarrels  among 
the  crews  of  the  vessels  as  to  occasion  several  murders,  the  confusion  arising 
from  which  induced  Pinadero  to  return  to  Mexico.  The  Government,  disap- 
proving of  his  labors,  ordered  him,  at  his  own  expense,  to  make  another 
attempt  from  Sinaloa,  in  1667,  in  which  his  abilities  as  a  colonizer  resulted  as 
in  his  first  failures,  Pinadero  having  made  formal  contracts  with  the  Govern- 
ment. 

In  1668,  some  12  months  after  Pinadero's  second  failure,  Francisco  Luci 
nella  obtained  a  patent  for  a  new  expedition,  to  be  undertaken  without  outlay 
to  the  royal  treasury,  and,  accompanied  by  Juan  Caranco  and  Juan  Ramirez, 
two  Franciscan  missionaries,  arrived  in  due  time  at  the  bay  of  La  Paz.  This 
expedition,  after  a  short  stay,  from  all    accounts,  resulted   in   nothing,   and 


EXTLORATIOX    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  29 

Luciaella  roturncd  to  Sinaloa,  where,  it  appear.*,  he  had  fitted  out.  Luciiiclla 
nuule  a  third  proposition  in  1GS6  (or  18  years  afterward),  to  complete  another 
expedition,  but  was  refused  license. 

With  all  these  reverses  and  difficulties,  neither  the  adventurers  nor  the 
authorities  in  Mexico  or  Spain  seemed  Avilling  to  let  the  colonization  of  the 
peninsula  drop  ;  small  vessels  from  the  coasts  of  Mexico  annually  visiting  the 
gulf  coasts  with  and  without  license  for  the  traffic  and  fishery  in  pearls. 

Charles  11.  having  ascended  the  throne  about  this  time,  and  great  concern 
being  felt  at  the  injury  resulting  to  the  fame  and  the  policy  of  Spain  by  the 
extension  of  other  European  colonies  in  North  America,  and  the  wasting  incur- 
sions of  the  filibusters  on  both  coasts  of  America,  the  Council  of  the  Indies 
in  the  mother  country,  by  order  of  the  king,  in  1667,  ordered  the  Viceroy  Arch- 
bishop Euriquez  de  Rivera  to  ofler  the  enterprioC  of  colonizing  the  peninsula 
again  to  private  parties,  and  if  such  were  not  found  willing  to  undertake  it,  that 
it  should  be  done  at  the  expense  of  the  treasury.  As  it  appears  from  the  chron- 
icles of  the  times  that  speculators  were  wary  of  hasty  action,  the  Admiral  Isidro 
Otondo  y  Antillon,  governor  of  Sinaloa,  and  a  distinguished  officer,  was  empow- 
ered by  a  AvaiTant  from  Madrid,  of  29th  December,  1679,  to  undertake  the 
enterprise,  and  given  the  title  of  Admiral  of  the  California  Conquests.  The 
religious  concerns  of  the  colony  were  to  be  placed  under  the  Jesuits,  and  Euse- 
bio  Francisco,  a  native  of  the  city  of  Trent,  in  German  Italy,  and  a  former 
professor  in  the  Bavarian  University  of  Ingoldstadt,  well  known  as  an  able 
geographer,  and  then  for  several  years  serving  as  a  missionary  iii  the  Jesuit 
establishments  of  Sinaloa  and  Pimaria,  or  North  Sonora,  was  nominated  as 
chaplain  of  the  expedition  and  colony.  From  this  time  we  commence  to  date 
a  true  knowledge  of  the  interior  countries  of  California  and  Sonora,  the  coast 
lines  being  pretty  well  known  from  numerous  prior  examinations  from  1535  to 
1667. 

But  things  moved  slow  in  those  grand  old  days  of  rich  galleons,  silver  adobes, 
bags  of  pearls,  and  piles  of  gold  doubloons,  pieces  of  eight,  and  pistareeus;  the 
government  of  the  hidalgos  was  as  slothful  and  timid  as  it  was  high-toned  and 
dignified,  a  line  of  action  very  acceptable  to  the  enterprising  traffickers  of  Eng- 
land and  Holland,  Portugal  about  this  time  collapsing  into  a  state  of  effeminate 
apathy.  It  was  accordingly  not  until  1683,  six  years  after  the  order  had  been 
issued,  that  Admiral  Antillon  was  enabled  to  complete  his  plans  and  put  them 
in  execution,  the  royal  strong  box  at  Mexico  bearing  the  charges  and  outlays : 
this  great  depository  seems  to  have  been  continually  sufiering  from  a  distressing 
vacuity  since  the  year  1600. 

•  On  the  18th  May,  1683,  the  admiral,  with  two  vessels  and  100  men,  left 
the  port  of  Chacala,  a  few  leagues  belo\v  the  present  San  Bias,  and  being  well 
provided  with  stores  and  material  for  the  proper  efFectment  of  the  object  indi- 
cated in  the  royal  warrants.  Witli  Otondo  went  Father  Kino  as  superior  of 
the  religious  mission,  having  with  him  the  Fathers  Juan  Copart  and  Pedro 
Goni,  and  meeting  with  good  weather,  the  vessels  landed  at  the  bay  of  La  Paz 
on  the  2d  of  June.  After  some  unimportant  troubles  with  the  Indians  had 
been  quieted  by  the  address  of  the  Jesuits  and  the  prudence  of  the  admiral, 
this  officer  with  Kino  and  a  force  of  25  armed  men  made  an  exploration  of  the 
mountains  to  the  west,  and  another  party  under  Father  Goni  to  the  south  and 
east,  both  of  which  effected  but  little ;  Kino's  party  had  penetrated  into  the 
territories  of  the  Guaycuros,  and  Goni's  into  tliat  of  the  Coras.  On  the  6th 
of  June  the  Guaycuros  or  Wicuros  attacked  the  camp,  and  from  the  scanda- 
lous cowardice  of  the  admiral's  men  the  colony  was  in  danger  of  coming  to  a 
speedy  end,  had  it  not  been  for  the  boldness  of  Otondo  and  the  management 
of  the  Jesuits,  the  old  professor  of  geography  remarking  that  tlie  admiral  now 
well  understood  that  his  CaUfornia  colonists  did  not  include  "  many  of  those 
brave  men  who  had  subjugated  America." 


30  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

Tlie  Spaniards  having  conquered  a  peace  by  the  cunning  and  boldness  of 
the  chief  leaders,  his  expected  supplies  from  the  River  Yaqui  not  reaching  him, 
the  provisions  giving  out,  and  discouraged  by  the  inefficiency  and  poltroonery  of 
his  men,  who  were  in  terror  from  attacks  of  the  Indians,  the  admiral  was  forced 
to  embark  from  La  Paz  on- the  14th  July,  and  arrived,  after  an  absence  of  three 
months,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yaqui,  experiencing  much  detention  in  seekino-  for 
the  vessel  which  contained  his  expected  assistance. 

Not  discouraged  at  his  first  discomfiture,  the  brave  old  admiral  sold  a  portion 
of  his  eftects,  and  even  pledged  the  family  plate  and  furniture  in  the  purchase  of 
stores,  and  sailed  again  for  California,  and  on  the  6th  October  came  to  anchor 
in  a  large  bay  which  he  called  San  Bruno,  which,  he  says,  is  in  26°  30',  and 
seems  to  be  the  same  as  the  bay  of  Loretto.  Father  Kino  and  the  other  two 
Jesuits  were  still  with  him,  and  immediately  commenced  the  study  of  the  In- 
dian language,  in  which  Copart  soon  became  the  most  skilful,  and  compiled  a 
catechism  and  vocabulary,  which  was  of  great  use  in  the  subsequent  settlement 
of  the  country,  as  the  want  of  this  knowledge  had  cost  niany  lives  and  much 
money  and  time  in  former  enterprises.  In  December,  obtaining  new  supplies  of 
money  and  provisions,  by  order  of  the  viceroy,  he  took  possession  of  the  country  in 
the  king's  name,  and  immediately  fitted  out  an  expedition  in  person,  accompanied 
by  the  three  Jesuit  fathers,  and  travelled  for  several  days  north  and  Avest  for 
the  distance  of  fifty  leagues,  endeavoring  to  reach  the  Pacific  coast.  In  this 
they  were  nearly  successful,  having  reached  a  large  plain  on  the  top  of  the 
mountains,  where  were  many  Indians  encamped,  who  told  them  that  within  a 
short  distance  was  a  small  river  which  run  into  the  western  sea  ;  but  from  fatigue 
and  bad  travelling  the  party  were  obliged  to  turn  back  to  San  Bruno. 

Nearly  twelve  months  had  now  passed;  the  fathers  had  made  good  progress 
in  the  'anguage  and  baptized  quite  a  number  of  the  Indians ;  the  soldiers  and 
colonists  began  to  grumble,  and  the  old  admiral  began  to  think  ho  had  "  struck 
a  bad  lead,"  and  got  into  an  inferior  district  of  the  country  "where  very  few 
good  pearls  were  found  or  benefits  to  gain,  and  determined,  after  holding  a 
council  of  his  subalterns,  to  return  to  Sinaloa  again,  where  he  soon  after  arrived 
and  advised  the  viceroy  of  the  result  of  his  proceedings.  Having  soon  furnished 
his  ships  with  supplies,  he  left  Sinaloa  again  to  see  it"  he  could  not  recover  some 
of  his  losses,  went  on  a  search  for  pearl-oyster  beds,  and  reached  the  har- 
bor San  Ignacio,  some  distance  above  San  Bruno  Bay.  At  San  Ignacio 
he  received  advices  from  the  viceroy  to  discontinue  all  his  other  objects 
except  retaining  the  establishment  commenced  at  San  Bruno,  to  Avhich  he 
soon  returned,  and,  finding  his  provisions  growing  short,  was  obliged  finally  to 
drop  the  whole  enterprise  in  great  mortification,  and  sail  for  the  continent, 
where  he  arrived  at  the  port  of  Matanchel,  which  lies  between  San  Bias  and 
Chacala.  Advising  the  Government  of  his  return,  he  was  ordered  to  convoy 
the  Manilla  galleon,  then  daily  expected  for  Acapulco,  and  which  fortunately  a 
few  days  afterward  he  met  with  and  delivered  out  of  the  traps  of  some  Dutch 
filibusters  who  were  waiting  for  her  near  the  port  of  Natividad.  On  his  re- 
porting to  the  Pioyal  Audicncia,  it  was  concluded  that,  as  the  admiral's  enter- 
prise had  lasted  three  years,  and  cost  the  royal  revenues  225,000  crowns  of 
money,  California  was  not  to  be  settled  by  such  means,  and  its  reduction 
to  civilization  and  the  Spanish  crown  should  be  offered  to  the  Society  of  Jesus, 
Avith  the  assistance  of  an  annual  appropriation  from  the  king's  treasury,  which 
offer  the  superior  of  the  Mexican  Jesuits  respectfully  but  firmly  then  declined. 

The  same  political  and  religious  motives  operating  in  Spain  and  Mexico  for 
the  acquisition  of  the  long-sought  possession  of  California,  many  plans  were  pro- 
posed withoiit  effect,  until  the  king  sent  orders  to  expedite  a  new  enterprise. 
After  a  careful  estimate  by  Otondo  and  his  friend  Kino  in  1686,  with  the  coun- 
tenance of  the  treasurer  of  the  Royal  Audicncia,  it  was  found  that  not  less  than 
an  annual  subsidy  of  30,000  crowns  was  necessary,  on  the  most  frugal  bases, 


EXPLORATIOX    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  31 

to  effect  the  desires  of  the  Mng  and  the  nation.  This  estimate  being  approved  by 
liis  majesty's  officers,  orders  were  sent  to  Mexico  to  advance  the  money  to  the 
admiral  to  make  a  third  attempt  at  colonization.  But,  as  the  old  chronicler 
hath  it,  "in  the  very  week  that  the  admiral  was  to  receive  his  moneys,  letters 
came  from  Spain  to  send  the  kino-  500,000  crowns  of  money,"  and  California 
went  down  to  zero  again.  In  1694  Captain  Francis  Itamarra  obtained  a  license 
from  the  Government  to  make  a  voyage  at  his  own  expense,  which  was  granted  ; 
but  Itamarra  arriving  at  San  Brnno  Bay,  and  finding  but  few  pearls,  and  the 
Indians  telling  him  they  were  more  desirous  to  receive  the  missionaries  prom- 
ised by  Otondo,  the  party  returned  to  Mexico,  and  nothing  was  again 
done  for  California  till  the  entrance  in  1097  of  Salvatierra  for  its  systematic  re- 
duction under  the  Jesuit  missionaries.  After  Otondo's  atfair,  nothing  else  was 
done  publicly  at  the  propulsion  either  by  the  king  or  by  the  viceroy,  the  royal 
treasury  having  suffered  to  the  tune  of  several  millions  of  dollars  in  the  gainless 
cx2)editions,  from  Viscaino's  in  1602  to  Otondo's  in  1685. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

THE  EXPLOITATIONS  AND  ACCOUNTS  OF  THE  COAST  LINES  FROM  1700  TO  1770 

VOYAGES  OF  THE  JESUITS. 

Deferring  the  account  of  the  colonizing  and  settlement  of  the  mission  dis- 
tricts after  1685,  we  shall  follow  in  their  sequence  the  remaining  relations  of  the 
Jesuits  and  others  of  the  explorations  of  the  coast-lines  of  the  gulf  and  of  the 
ocean. 

The  Padre  Juan  Ugarte,  having  built  a  small  vessel  at  Loretto,  of  native 
timber,  brought  with  incredible  labor  from  the  mountains,  and  which  he  named 
the  Triumph  of  the  Cross,  by  directions  of  his  superiors  in  Mexico,  prepared  to 
take  a  survey  of  the  northern  gulf  coasts.  This  vessel  appears  to  have  been  a 
schooner  of  about  100  tons,  and  had  a  large  boat  to  take  soundings  and  enter 
shallow  places,  and  was  the  first  shipping  craft  built  in  the  Californias.  On 
board  went  as  pilot  one  William  Stratfort,  who  seems  to  have  been  the  first  of 
English  name  connected  with  the  Spanish  settlement  of  California.  He  is  de- 
scribed as  a  seaman  of  learning  and  experience,  and  Venegas  states  that  he  made 
many  charts  of  the  coast  while  on  this  voyao-e,  which  could  not  afterwai'd 
be  found,  neither  could  the  journals  of  Ugarte  wlien  they  were  searched  for  in 
Spain  about  1735,  to  the  great  disappointment  of  the  king.  On  the  15th  May, 
1721,  the  vessel,  containing  six  European  sailors  and  14  Indians,  and  the  boat 
with  eight  others,  left  Loretto  and  arrived  at  Moleje  (or  Concepcion)  Bay,  and 
from  thence  stretched  across  the  gulf  to  the  coast  of  Pimaria,  after  touching 
at  the  Sal  Si  Puedes  Islands.  Here  they  examined  day  by  day  the  upper  coasts 
of  Sonora,  landing  at  favorable  places  to  communicate  with  the  missions  in  the 
interior  to  the  eastward,  until  they  arrived  within  sight  of  the  Colorado.  Land- 
ing in  these  vicinities,  Ugarte  in  a  clear  afternoon  obtained  from  an  elevated 
position  a  distinct  and  undoubted  view  of  the  connection  of  the  northern  moun- 
tains and  shores  of  California  with  the  coasts  of  Pimaria,  or  what  is  now  called 
the  Gadsden  Purchase  of  the  present  Territory  of  Arizona,  and  between  1800  and 
1853  known  as  North  Sonora,  or  Alta  Pimaria,  from  the  Pima  Indians.  After 
much  suffering  from  sickness,  bad  provisions,  scurvy,  aiid  the  tempestuous 
state  of  the  weather,  with  the  vessel  and  long-boat  much  damaged,  and  in  con- 
tinual peril  from  the  fearful  currents  and  rapids  between  the  islands  of  Sal  Si 
Puedes,  Tiburon,  and  Angel  Guardian,  and  at  one  time  in  great  danger  from  a 
terrific  waterspout,  the  expedition  returned  to  Loretto  on  the  15tli  September, 
after  an  absence  of  123  days.  On  the  California  coasts,  above  the  bay  of 
Moleje,  they  found  many  good  landing-places,  with  sweet  water  ;  while  on  the 
Sonora  coast,  above  the  mouth  of  the  Caborca,  only  three  or  four  springs  were 


32  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

met  witL,  and  the  shores  were  very  sandy  or  of  volcanic  rocks,  good  land  or  water 
in  plenty  being  only  found  at  a  distance  of  many  leagues  in  the  interior.  At  any 
rate,  they  gained  valuable  knowledge  of  the  gulf  navigation,  and  the  party,  com- 
municating with  friendly  gentile  Indians  and  the  affiliating  Jesuit  missions  in 
Upper  Piraaria,  received  such  necessary  succors  and  assistance  from  them  as 
not  only  enabled  Ugarte's  party  to  recover  their  health  and  spirits,  but  actually 
saved  the  lives  of  many  of  the  expedition. 

Ugarte  notices  the  terrific  velocity  of  the  bores  of  the  Colorado,  formed  by  the 
junction  of  the  floods  of  the  river  with  the  incoming  tides  of  the  gulf,  and  vice  versa, 
which  shift  about  and  change  every  six  hours,  rising  to  the  height  perpendicular  of 
from  three  to  seven  fathoms,  and  overwhelming  the  land  and  every  thing  within 
its  influence  for  hundreds  of  miles.  This  now  well-known  phenomenon  had  also 
been  noticed  by  Ulloa  in  1537,  and  by  Alarcon  in  1540,  and  after  Ugarte's 
time  by  Father  Consag  in  1V46,  as  well  as  by  Fathers  Kino  and  Salvatierra 
between  1695  and  1V06. 

Ugarte  also  notices  the  brick-colored  and  corrosive  waters  of  certain  parts 
of  the  gulf-head,  which  raise  blisters  and  ulcers  on  the  skin  similar  to  the 
effects  of  scurvy,  which  is  produced  most  likely  by  an  excess  of  the  iodides, 
bromides,  and  sulphurets  of  minerals,  derived,  doubtless,  from  the  abundance 
of  volcanic  material  so  common  in  these  portions  of  the  gulf.  This  curious 
phenomenon  was  more  carefully  noted  by  Consag,  in  his  voyage  in  174G ;  it  is 
also  mentioned  by  recent  American  voyagers  to  the  Colorado  River  from 
1850-1866,  and  deserves  farther  investigation  by  men  of  science.  It  was  also 
noticed  that  certain  docile  California  Indians  of  the  shores  above  the  Sal  Si 
Puedes  manufactured  a  very  handsome  quality  of  earthen  pots,  a  fact  of  con- 
siderable importance  in  their  social  economy,  found  in  no  other  part  of 
the  peninsula,  and  further  mentioned  afterward  by  Father  Consag.  The  ex- 
treme tenacity  and  viscidity  of  the  anchoring-ground  near  the  river's  mouth  was 
also  observed,  and  gave  them  great  trouble  in  lifting  anchor. 

After  his  return  to  Loretto,  Father  Ugarte,  with  the  pilot  Stratfort,  made 
another  voyage  in  November  along  the  California  shores,  as  high  up  as  beyond 
28°,  or  say  the  entrance  of  the  Canal  de  Ballenas,  meeting  with  three  good  har- 
bors and  several  fine  watering-places.  The  sailing  directions  and  charts  of 
Stratfort  and  the  journal  of  the  two  voyages  by  Ugarte  were  afterward  sent  to 
the  viceroy,  together  with  tlie  account  of  Padre  Clemente  Guillen,  across  the 
peninsula  from  Loretto  to  Magdaleua  Bay  in  I7l9.  In  this  last  Guillen  had 
entered  that  great  bay  from  the  land  side,  found  three  good  harbors  therein,  and 
named  the  present  Santa  Margarita  Island,  Santa  Rosa ;  his  short  descriptions 
agTce  with  those  of  Cabiillo  and  Viscaino,  and  the  recent  ones  by  Belcher  in 
1837.  As  we  noted  before,  none  of  these  maps,  pilot  directions,  or  journals, 
could  be  found  in  the  archives  of  Spain  when  Burriel  edited  the  work  of  Vene- 
gas  in  1754,  so  that  the  names  and  titles  of  his  stopping-places  have  nearly  all 
been  lost,  except  the  few  saved  by  tradition. 

In  the  year  1730,  Father  Sigismund  Taraval,  a  native  of  Lodi  in  the  duchy 
of  Milan,  and  son  of  a  lieutenant-general  in  the  Spanish  armies,  and  a  man  of 
distinguished  learning  and  merit,  came  to  California  as  a  missionary,  and  was 
sent  on  an  expedition  in  the  same  year,  from  Loretto  overland,  to  make  ex- 
plorations on  the  Pacific  coast.  lie  appears  to  have  got  as  far  north  as  the  great 
bay  formed  by  Cedros  and  Natividad  Islands,  and  usually  accepted  now  as  Vis- 
caino's  Bay,  as  he  mentions  the  vicinities  as  contiguous  to  the  mission  now  known 
as  San  Ignacio,  and  that  two  islands,  called  by  the  Indians  Afegua,  or  Bird 
Island,  and  Amalgua,  or  Fog  Island,  lay  only  a  few  leagues  from  the  coast, 
with  two  smaller  islands  fiirther  westward.  These  descriptions  answer  to  Vis- 
caino's  Bay,  and  the  dimensions  and  character  of  the  island  of  Cedros,  etc., 
mentioned  by  Taraval,  answer  to  these  and  to  the  bay,  and  no  other,  within  the 
times  and  distance  of  his  departures.     The  account  in  Venegas  is  very  confused 


EXPLORATIOX    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  33 

and  ainlnguous,  and  it  is  stated  that  tliey  saw  other  large  islands,  which  were 
thought  to  he  Santa  Catalina  and  San  Cleinente,  mentioned  in  Viscaino's  voyage 
above  San  l>iego,  as  they  travelled  considerably  farther  north,  and  state  that 
these  last  islands  could  be  reached  in  three  days'  continuous  sailing.  Taraval 
called  the  great  bay  San  Xavier,  and  the  islands,  in  a  mass,  the  Islands  of  Do- 
lores. Prodigious  flights  of  birds  inhabited  these  islands,  particularly  the 
smaller  one,  with  crowds  of  seals  and  other  marine  animals.  Among  the  birds 
were  some  a  little  bigger  than  sparrows,  which  are  of  jet  black,  living  all  day  at 
sea  and  returning  at  night  to  their  nests,  made  in  burrows  in  the  ground,  like 
those  of  rabbits,  and  four  feet  deep.  Another  bird  was  of  the  size  of  a  goose, 
with  black  wings  and  white  breast,  and  a  hawk-like  beak,  also  living  in  bur- 
rows in  the  earth,  four  or  five  yards  deep.  The  larger  island  abounds  with  a  pecu- 
liar and  small  species  of  long-haired  deer,  and  a  curious  species  of  rabbit  of  jet- 
black  color,  with  fur  softer  than  that  of  a  beaver.  It  is  to  be  observed  here, 
that  the  maps  in  the  English  edition  of  Venegas,  though  much  better  engraved, 
are  not  as  many,  nor  as  well  punctuated,  as  those  of  the  original  Madrid  edition; 
Taraval's  coast  positions  not  being  notated  in  the  English  map  at  all. 

The  next  expedition  of  marine  surveys  undertaken  by  the  Jesuits  vvas  that 
of  IV-IG,  by  Father  Fernando  Consag,  of  the  missions  of  Dolores  del  Norte  and 
San  Ignacio.  This  indefatigable  priest  was  a  native  of  Austria,  and  came  to 
California  from  Mexico  in  1732  ;  he  died  while  superior  of  the  missions,  in  1759, 
at  the  age  of  oQ.  Having  left  Loretto  in  four  open  boats,  the  party  arrived  in 
a  short  time  at  the  anchorage  of  San  Carlos,  in  latitude  28°,  from  whence  they 
departed  for  the  head  of  the  gulf  on  the  9th  June,  1746,  to  examine  in  detail 
the  shores,  ports,  harbors,  bays,  islands,  etc.  As  many  of  the  positions  and 
places  mentioned  by  Consag  still  retain  their  names  on  most  of  the  charts  and 
maps  of  the  present  time,  but  nevertheless  are  yet  unfamiliar  to  seamen,  and 
their  localities  little  known  even  in  the  peninsula  to  this  day  with  exactitude, 
and  some  not  at  all,  we  shall  make  merely  cursory  mention  of  them,  for  they 
are  all  yet  to  be  hydrographically  examined  and  located  in  all  this  dangerous 
navigation.  The  first  place  he  reached  was  three  leagues  from  San  Carlos, 
called  Santa  Ana  w'atering-place,  which  makes  a  harbor,  the  lofty  capes  of 
which  are  San  Gabriel  and  Las  Virgenes ;  farther  up  was  the  bay  of  Trinidad, 
where  there  is  a  pearl-fishery,  dangerous  from  reefs  and  islets;  at  the  extremity 
was  a  bay  named  San  Bernarbe,  with  a  low  island  near  by  abounding  in  sea- 
wolves.  Farther  on  is  the  Cape  of  San  Juan  Bautista,  with  a  dangerous  rocky 
coast ;  the  land  is  low,  of  hard  clay  soil  and  red  appearance.  A  day's  sail  beyond 
is  the  bay  of  San  Miguel ;  the  anchorage  is  tolerable  and  plenty  of  sweet  water  is 
near  by.  Close  to  this  is  the  island  Tortoguilla,  sometimes  called  Gcrro  Blanco,  the 
shore  of  which  is  troubled  with  dangerous  currents,  surfs,  I'eefs,  and  rocks.  Op- 
posite Cape  San  Gabriel  commences  the  island  of  Sal  Si  Puedes,  and  a  few 
leagues  from  the  cape  is  the  bay  of  San  Rafael,  into  which  empties  a  small  stream, 
called  Kadacaman;  in  the  shores  are  many  caves  and  boiling  springs,  some  of 
which  springs  are  covered  by  the  high  tide ;  the  water  of  the  bay  is  tinged  in 
patches  of  red  and  blue  colors.  A  large  pond  of  good  water  was  found  in  one 
part  of  the  bay,  and  the  Indians  were  docile  and  hospitable,  but  were  encnaies 
of  the  Yaquis  of  Sonora,  begotten  of  fights  and  nnn-clers  growing  out  of  pearl- 
fishing.  A  day's  sail  above  San  Rafael  brought  them  to  San  Antonio  Bay,, 
in  sight  of  a  dark  mountain,  having  two  small  rivulets  in  the  vicinity,  and  a 
fine  fertile  country  is  seen.  The  next  day  a  bay  is  reached,  called  Purgatory 
13ay,  with  several  rivulets  and  much  good  country,  and  many  liospitable  Indians 
were  found,  to  whom  the  father  preached  the  Gospel ;  in  the  morning  the  boats 
were  found  aground,  with  only  a  fathom  of  water.  A  day's  sail  farther  brings 
you  to  Cape  Las  Animas,  a  few  miles  to  the  north  of  which  is  the  bay  of  Los 
Angeles,  where  a  very  troublesome  and  numerous  tribe  of  Indians  livedo  and! 
great  enemies  of  the  pearl-divers ;  their  young  females  went  entirely  naked-  A. 
3 


34  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AXD 

day's  sail  above  Los  Angeles  is  the  bay  of  Our  Lady  of  Remedios,  contaiuing 
a  pearl-fishery,  in  front  of  which  is  the  island  of  Angel  de  la  Guarda,  -vvhich  is 
very  rugged  and  mountainous.  The  channel  between  the  island  and  the  coast 
was  found  so  full  of  whales,  that  it  was  called  then,  and  is  still  known  to  this 
day  as,  the  Canal  de  las-Ballenas. 

In  these  waters  the  party  found  valuable  pearl-oyster  beds,  those  near  the 
shore  being  the  best.  On  the  mainland  near  by  is  a  considerable  rivulet ;  the 
anchorages  in  all  these  vicinities  were  found  full  of  dangerous  rocks  above  and 
below  water.  A  short  distance  off  is  the  watering-place  of  San  Juan  and  San 
Pablo,  near  Avhich  is  a  red-colored  hili.  A  day's  sail  above  is  a  bay  shaped  like 
the  letter  G,  full  of  rocks,  called  the  hay  of  San  Pedro  and  San  Pablo,  the 
watering-places  of  which  are  not  very  good.  A  short  sail  above  this  bay  is  an- 
other very  large  and  commodious  one,  capable  of  holding  any  number  of  ves- 
sels, called  the  bay  of  San  Luis  Gonzaga,  in  the  vicinity  of  which  was  afterward 
founded  the  mission  of  San  Francisco  Borja ;  in  this  bay  were  found  great  num- 
bers of  a  variety  of  shells  resembling  the  white  pearl-oyster ;  also  several  rivulets 
of  brackish  water  enter  the  bay,  filled  Avith  fish ;  and  the  Indians  were  very 
numei'ous.  The  party  dug  wells  on  the  shore,  but  the  water  w'as  found  bad, 
but  at  the  upper  end  of  the  bay  is  a  good  watering-place,  called  San  Estanislao. 
In  San  Luis  Gonzaga  Bay  were  found  pearl-oysters  and  palm-trees;  it  was  in 
thi«  vicinity  the  Indians  made  the  earthen  jars  mentioned  by  TJgarte  20  years 
before;  a  dog  was  also  found  among  them  and  mentioned  as  a  special  curiosity, 
and  their  women  went  entirely  naked.  A  short  distance  above  Gonzaga  Bay 
opens  another  bay,  called  La  Visitacion,  which  seems  to  be  of  little  account. 
Above  Visitacion  Bay  is  that  of  San  Fermiu,  which  is  the  limit  of  habitation 
of  the  pearl-oyster,  and  a  day's  sail  above  is  the  bay  of  San  Felipe  de  Jesus, 
and  in  another  day's  sail  is  that  of  San  Buenaventura,  after  which  are  no  more 
harbors,  but  all  sand-flats  and  marshes. 

At  San  Felipe,  which  is  due  east  from  the  mission  of  Rosario  on  the  Pacific, 
the  Avater  is  very  thick,  of  disagreeable  odor  and  taste,  and  atfects  those  wdio 
drink  it  with  a  sickness  similar  to  scurvy ;  the  rivulet  which  afl:brds  it  is  on  the 
north  side,  and  the  shores  of  the  bay  are  mostly  sand}',  and  the  anchorages 
excellent  at  high  tides,  and  in  front  of  the  bay  is  a  high  rocky  islet  or  farallon. 
In  these  vicinities  were  seen  great  numbers  of  ivild  sheep  and  roild  goats,  and  in 
the  eariy  mornings  and  evenings  the  land  on  the  Sonora  coast  could  be  dis- 
tinctly seen.  About  40  miles  above  San  Felipe  some  red-colored  marshes  are 
reached,  not  far  from  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado,  near  to  which  is  a  bow-shaped 
creek,  formed  by  an  island,  where  the  water  differs  from  that  of  the  sea  and  is 
caustic,  and  causes  such  malignant  sores  and  boils  as  to  last  for  many  days,  tak- 
ing oS  the  very  skin  like  a  blister,  as  was  mentioned  in  Ugarte's  voyage  20  years 
before.  At  the  inferior  bay  of  San  Buenaventura  no  good  water  was  found. 
The  party  ascended  the  river,  but  meeting  with  the  dangerous  bores,  did  not 
get  up  as  high  as  the  junction  of  the  Gila.  Indeed,  their  canoes  do  not  appear 
to  have  reached  20  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado,  when  they  returned 
to  the  gidf  on  the  25th  July,  and  after  meeting  with  many  dangers  from  cur- 
rents, rapids,  and  storms,  finally  reached  Loretto  about  the  10th  of  August, 
1746,  after  an  absence  of  60  days.  Father  Consag  says,  the  reason  why  he 
mentions  no  latitudes  in  his  journal  is,  that  they  are  all  set  down\  exactly  in  his 
chart  transmitted  to  the  viceroy  and  published  in  A^enegas's  work,  but  the  instru- 
ments of  1746  gave  latitudes  from  30  to  60  miles  out  of  the  way.  It  is  the 
chart  which  is  the  basis  of  all  other  charts  and  maps  of  the  gulf  shores  of  Cali- 
fornia down  to  the  year  1866,  and,  of  course,  is  full  of  danr/erous  errors. 

Proceeding  down  the  gulf  on  the  Sonora  side,  nearly  all  that  is  known  in 
navigation  and  chartography  is  obtained  from  the  explorations  by  land  of 
Fathers  Kino  and  Salvatierra  between  1697  and  1706.  In  these  journeys  Kino 
.ascertained  the  junction  of  the  Colorado  and  the  Gila,  and  from  the  elevations  of 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  35 

the  "  Castlc-dome  "  sliapod  mountains  cast  of  tlie  present  Fort  Yuma,  in  the 
afternoons  ami  nu")rning's  obtained  distinct  views  of  the  immense  levels  and  tlats, 
on  every  side  bounded  by  the  scattered  mountain-ridges  of  Sonora,  and  the 
connected  sierras  of  the  peninsula,  aiul  proved  the  indisputable  junction  of  the 
continent  with  the  peninsula,  with  long  vistas  to  the  south  of  the  waters  of  the 
gulf  which  laved  the  shores  on  the  cast  and  on  the  west  of  the  Vermilion  Sea  of 
California.  The  lands  for  a  long  distance  below  the  mouth  of  the  river  consist 
of  mepanos  or  arenales  (in  English,  desert  sands  and  hillocks  of  sand-powder)  ; 
on  the  Sonora  side  they  extend  to  below  the  mouth  of  the  Caborca  or  Asun- 
cion rivulet,  or  for  some  200  miles  a  howling  wilderness  where  nothing  useful 
grows,  Avhich  is  bare  of  animal  life,  and  where  verdure  is  rarely  met  with.  Just 
below  the  mouth  of  the  Caborca  is  Kino's  bay  of  San  Juan  Bautista  under  lati- 
tude 30°,  known  since  1860  as  Puerto  Libertad.  No  other  port  of  particular 
consequence  is  met  with  till  the  fine  harbor  of  Guaymas  is  reached,  wdiich  is 
one  of  the  best  on  the  Paciiic  coast ;  the  intervening  ports  between  Libertad  and 
Guaymas  are  unknown  in  liydrogTaphy,  and  the  cultivatable  and  thinly-settled 
country  is  many  leagues  in  the  interior.  The  most  important  facts  in  naviga- 
tion and  history  connected  Avith  the  Sonora  coast  are  all  from  the  Jesuit  author- 
ities ante  17G0,  and  even  these  only  give  a  general  idea,  and  are  full  of  material 
faults  dangerous  to  the  storm-bewildered  mariner,  or  the  tamished  and  thirst- 
exhausted  traveller. 

The  final  attempt  at  the  exploration  of  the  gulf  coasts  of  the  peninsula  under 
the  Jesuits  was  that  of  Padre  Winceslao  Link,  a  native  of  Bohemia,  who  had 
recently  founded  the  Mission  of  San  Francisco  Borja  (pronounced  Boreas), 
which  is  situated  in  about  28°  30',  midway  on  the  parallel  of  the  port  of  Los 
Angeles,  on  the  gulf,  and  the  northern  extremity  of  the  bay  of  Viscaino,  on  the 
Pacific.  Link,  who  had  only  then  been  a  few  years  in  California,  instructed  a 
number  of  his  Lidians  in  the  management  of  boats,  for  the  purpose  of  fishing 
and  exploring  the  coasts  of  his  mission  district  contiguous  to  the  gulf,  and  by 
the  aid  of  whom  in  1765  he  made  partial  exploration  of  the  great  island  of  the 
Angel  de  la  Guarda  from  Los  Angeles  port.  lie  travelled  over  the  greater  part 
of  the  island  on  foot,  in  which  he  met  with  several  pleasant-looking  valleys,  but 
finding  no  water,  animals,  nor  inhabitants,  concluded  it  useless  to  prolong  his 
investigations,  and  returned  to  his  port  of  departure  a  few  days  afterward.  He 
mentions  that  the  island  is  about  51  miles  in  length,  and  only  some  six  miles  in 
breadth  ;  Americans  who  have  touched  at  this  island  and  others  in  the  vicinity, 
on  their  way  to  the  Colorado  since  1850,  affirm  that  there  are  valuable  fisheries 
there,  and  the  lands  are  full  of  copper,  silver,  and  lead  minerals,  and  in  some 
seasons  immense  numbers  of  a  small  and  peculiar  species  of  whale?". 

Two  years  after  this  expedition  of  Liuk,  in  the  year  1767,  the  missionaries 
of  the  Society  of  Jesus  were  expelled  from  the  establishments  they  had  founded 
in  California;  and  from  that  time  to  1867,  or  the  space  of  100  years,  the  history 
of  the  peninsula  is  vacant  of  transactions  connected  with  their  order. 


CHAPTER  Vn. 

ENGLISH  AND   FRENCH    NOTICES    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA    FROM    1700-1772 — WIL- 
LIAM DAMPIER  AND  ROBINSON  CRUSOE  MAKE  THEIR  APPEARANCE  IN  CALIFORNIA. 

Day  by  day  the  power  of  Spain  was  weakening,  and,  in  reverse,  the  other 
states  of  Europe  were  strengthening.  The  French,  by  some  astute  arrangements 
growing  out  of  the  celebrated  family  compact  between  the  crowns  of  Spain  and 
France,  had  carried  on,  for  a  considerable  period  ante  1720,  a  very  lucrative 
traffic  in  armed  merchantmen  with  the  western  coasts  of  South  America;  some 
of  these  vessels  carried  40  guns  and  300  men,  and  more  than  one  voyage  was 
effected  by  them  between  China  and  Peru :  indeed,  it  is  stated  that  as  many  as 


36  SKETCH  or  THE  SETTLEMENT  AXD 

20  of  tliese  French  vessels  traded  to  the  west  coasts  m  a  single  year.  Tlie  suc- 
cess of  these  enterprises  gaining  as  is  said  to  French  commerce  in  a  few  years 
100  millions  of  dollars,  greatly  pricked  the  envy  of  the  English,  whose  vessels 
began  now  to  furl  their  sails  in  every  maritime  market  in  the  w^orld. 

In  the  European  wars  in  the  reign  of  Queen  Anne  of  England,  when  Britain 
and  Spain  were  involved'  in  conflict,  a  company  of  adventurers  was  organized  in 
the  city  of  Bristol,  in  the  year  1707,  to  carry  the  war  into  the  South  Seas,  and 
make  reprisals  on  the  west  coast  of  America,  where  France  was  yearly  squeezing 
so  much  good  money  out  of  the  supineness  and  igiiorance  of  the  Spanish  colo- 
nists. Two  ships  were  fitted  out  for  this  expedition  as  privateersmen,  which 
were  placed  by  the  company  under  the  command  of  Captain  Woodes  Eogers, 
whose  name  became  so  familiar  afterward  in  English  literature  in  connection 
with  the  names  of  Dampier,  Selkirk,  De  Foe,  and  Eobinson  Crusoe,  and  the 
taking  of  a  rich  Manilla  galleon  near  the  capes  of  California.  Having  secured 
a  regular  commission  from  Prince  George  of  Denmark,  the  Lord  High  Admiral 
of  England,  and  husband  of  Queen  Anne,  the  frigate  Duke,  of  320  tons,  30 
guns,  and  ll7  men,  and  the  frigate  Duchess,  of  260  tons,  20  guns,  and  108  men, 
left  Bristol  for  Cork  in  August,  1708,  and  arrived  at  the  latter  place  in  a  few 
days,  from  whence  she  departed  for  the  South  Seas  on  the  first  day  of  Septem- 
ber. The  Duke  was  commanded  by  Rogers,  under  whom  went,  as  chief 
pilot,  the  celebrated  navigator  William  Dampier,  who  had  previously  been  on 
the  west  coasts  as  high  up  as  Acapulco,  and  had  made  two  or  three  voyages 
round  the  world.  The  Duchess  Avas  commanded  by  Captain  Stephen  Court- 
ney. In  February,  1709,  they  arrived  at  the  island  of  Juan  Fernandez,  to 
recruit  after  their  toilsome  travels  around  "The  Horn,"  and  on  this  hidden 
hermitage  of  the  western  seas  found  a  solitary  man  whose  name  in  a  few  years 
became  Avorld-known  as  that  of  Alexander  Selkirk,  or  better  as  Robinson 
Crusoe,  whose  adventures,  under  the  manipulating  genius  of  Daniel  De  Foe,  have 
exercised  such  a  wondrous  influence  on  modern  travel  and  adventure,  and 
peopled  with  phantasms  the  island-world  of  the  Pacific.  Rogers  made  Selkirk 
second  mate  of  his  own  ship,  the  Duke,  and  he  is  frequently  in  the  nan'ative 
mentioned  among  the  names  of  his  ofiicers  until  his  arrival  in  England;  Selkirk 
had  been  left  on  the  island  four  years  before,  in  1703,  by  Captain  Stradling,  of 
the  ship  Cinque  Ports.  After  many  adventures  on  the  coasts  of  Peru,  Chili, 
and  Mexico,  where  they  sacked  several  towns  and  captured  a  number  of  valua- 
ble prizes,  obtaining  thereby  immense  amounts  of  treasures,  the  expedition 
arrived  off"  Cape  San  Lucas  on  the  1st  of  November,  1709,  determined  if  possi- 
ble to  capture  the  Manilla  galleon  then  on  her  way  to  Acapulco. 

This  feat  "was  the  sine  qua  non  of  their  adventure,  and  not  getting  sight  of 
her  after  much  buffeting  about  the  neighborhood,  they  came  to  anchor  at  the 
Porto  Scguro  of  Cavendish  (the  present  bay  of  San  Bernabe),  a  short  distance 
northeast  of  Cape  San  Lucas,  on  the  19th  of  November.  After  refitting  his  ves- 
sels, Rogers  put  to  sea  again,  and  getting  sight  of  the  galleon,  captured  her  on 
the  23d  December,  the  vessel  making  a  gallant  resistance  against  the  English 
ships.  Her  name  was  the  Nucstra  Senora  de  la  Encarnacion  de  Singano,  of  some 
600  tons,  20  big  guns,  20  small  ones  called  patereroes,  and  193  men,  and  was 
commanded  by  a  chevalier  of  France,  Sir  John  Pichberty ;  the  galleon  and  her 
cargo  are  valued  in  some  of  the  accounts  of  this  voyage  at  over  one  million  of 
dollars,  by  others  two  millions.  The  prisoners  in  the  prize  reported  they  had 
lost  sight  of  a  consort  named  the  Bic/onia  three  months  before,  and  that  she 
was  of  900  tons,  with  60  big  guns  and  many  patereroes,  and  carried  450  men 
besides  many  passengers,  and  had  a  cargo  of  great  value.  On  receiving  this 
news  Rogers  and  his  men  were  in  a  delirium  of  filibuster  delights,  and  imme- 
diately put  to  sea  to  waylay  the  Bir/onia,  Avhich  bore  the  admiral's  flag  from 
Manilla,  and  came  up  with  her  a  few  days  afterward,  but  was  badly  repulsed  by 
the  Spaniard,  who  made  his  escape  and  got  in  safe  to  anchor  at  Acapulco.     Oa 


EXPLORATIOX    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  37 

this  cliscour.iorincf  result,  the  Ensjlish  vessels  hauled  off  with  tlic  loss  of  several 
men,  Rogers  himself  being  severely  wounded,  and  put  baek  to  the  California 
port  to  repair  and  refit.  Here  the  prisoners  were  ransomed  by  a  draft  for 
§6,000  on  London,  and  put  aboard  a  smaller  craft,  in  which  they  shortly  after- 
ward reached  the  Mexican  coasts. 

Tlie  galkmn  Sinr/ano,  whose  title  -was  chanoed  to  that  of  the  Bachelor,  was 
repaired,  and  put  under  the  charge  of  Captain  Thomas  Dover,  with  Alexander 
Selkirk  as  sailing-master,  and  all  the  vessels  left  the  Porto  Segnro  of  California 
for  the  island  of  Guam  an  the  11th  January,  1710.  This  Dover  was  the  sur- 
geon of  Rogers's  vessel,  and  it  is  said  he  was  the  original  inventor  of  the  famous 
Dover's  Powder  of  the  apothecary,  which  holds  its  well-earned  honors  to  this 
day.  ^ 

The  descriptions  which  Rogers  gives  of  this  portion  of  California  agree  in 
every  particular  with  those  left  us  in  the  Jesuit  missionary  histories^  The 
Indiar.s  were  very  numerous,  friendly,  and  docile,  and  greatly  assisted  the  pai-ty 
in  procuring  wood,  w-ater,  iish,  and  other  necessaries  ;  and  having  been  feasted 
for  days  on  the  sweetmeats  of  Peru,  Mexico,  and  Manilla,  taken  in  the  English- 
men's captures,  became  so  attached  to  the  strangers  as  to  stop  aboard  the  ves- 
sels till  they  got  under  way,  when  they  jumped  overboard  and  swam  to  land. 
These  simple  people  "were  often  ornamented  with  necklaces  of  pearls,  and  such 
was  their  skill  in  diving  that  on  throwing  overboard  knives  and  such-like  gifts 
they  would  dive  down  and  catch  the  articles  before  they  had  time  to  sink  to  the 
bottom.  In  no  part  of  the  account  of  his  stay  in  California  did  he  meet  with 
the  Jesuit  missionaries  then  engaged  in  colonizing  the  country. 

On  board  the  prizes  taken  by  Rogers's  expedition  was  found  a  valuable  derro- 
tero,  or  coast  pilot  of  the  west  coasts  of  America  from  Acapulco  to  the  southern 
islands  of  Chili,  which  is  accompanied  with  charts,  and  occupies  56  pages  of  his 
journal ;  his  own  chart  of  the  voyage  puts  down  California  as  an  island,  as  does 
also  that  of  Shelvock  a  few^  yeai's  afterward,  and  Anson  in  1740  ;  yet  Rogers  says 
he  chooses  to  believe  it  is  not  an  island,  but  joined  to  the  continent. 

In  all  these  nautical  matters,  the  genius  and  knowledge  of  that  great  naviga- 
tor, William  Dampier,  is  apparent,  and  all  of  them  may  be  said  to  hold  gener- 
ally good  to  this  1867.  ^  '      . 

The  expedition  reached  the  island  of  Guam,  on  the  11th  March,  having 
greatly  suffered  on  the  passage  from  bad  provisions,  and  obtaining  needful  sup- 
plies, left  for  the  Moluccas,  arrriving  at  Batavia  on  the  30th  June,  and  from  thence 
at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  on  the  29th  December,  1710.  In  company  with 
several  Dutch  vessels,  they  shortly  after  quitted  the  Cape  on  their  voyage,  and 
anchored  at  the  Texel  on  the  23d  June,  l7ll,  and,  after  many  delays  there,  final- 
ly reached  England  on  the  14tli  of  October,  after  an  absence  of  more  than  three 
years.  The  djflFer'Mt  prizes  and  sackings  made  by  the  English  vessels  are  said, 
in  some  of  the  accounts,  to  have  aggregated  to  several  millions  of  dollars,  and  ex- 
ercised a  most  important  influence  in  stimulating,  subsequently,  the  attention  of 
seamen  and  merchants  to  the  value  of  the  Pacific  trade  and  countries. 

A  few  years  after,  several  persons,  who  had  been  with  Rogers,  induced  an 
English  association  to  fit  out  another  expedition,  under  Captain  George  Shelvock, 
an  officer  in  the  English  navy.  The  vessels  consisted  of  the  Success,  of  36  guns 
and  108  men,  under  Captain  John  Clipperton,  and  the  Speedwell,  of  24  guns  and 
106  men,  under  Shelvock.  The  company  first  procured  a  commission  for  this 
latter  officer  from  the  Emperor  Charles  VI.  of  Germany,  then  at  war  with  Spain, 
and  giving  Flemish  names  to  the  vessels,  which  were  shortly  afterward  changed 
back,  as  war  between  England  and  Spain  followed  in  1719,  a  few  months 
afterward,  and  new  commissions  procured,  as  English  adventurers,  from  the 
Government  of  George  I.  The  ships  departed  from  Plymouth,  in  February 
1719,  and  there  being  much  bad  feeling  between  the  two  commanders,  the  ves 
sels  separated,  and  did  not  come  together  again  until  they  met  near  Panama,  in 


33  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AXD 

1721 :  to  both  tlie  commanders  very  poor  characters  are  ascribed,  which  subse- 
quent events  seemed  amply  to  justify,  after  their  return  to  England.  The  Speed- 
Tvell  made  her  way  to  the  coasts  of  Chili  and  Peru,  and  afterward  to  Juan  Fer- 
nandez, where  she  was.  wrecked  in  1720.  Here  a  craft  of  20  tons,  called  the 
Recovery,  was  built  from  the  remains  of  the  Speedwell,  with  which  Shelvock 
made  his  way  back  to  the  coast  of  Peru,  where  he  captured  a  small  ship,  called 
the  Jesus  Maria.  "With  this  he  made  many  reprisals,  and  proceeded  to  the 
coasts  of  Mexico,  where,  near  Sonsonate,  he  captured,  in  March,  1721,  another 
ship,  called  the  Sacra  Familia,  of  300  tons,  6  guns,  and  70  men,  and  made  fur- 
ther captures  and  reprisals,  and,  shortly  after,  met  Clipperton  again  near  Aca- 
pulco,  from  whom  lie  soon  separated,  after  the  usual  quarrels,  never  to  come  to- 
gether afterward.  Having  got  rid  of  his  prizes  and  prisoners,  and  being  warned 
by  the  governor  of  Sonsonate  that  the  war  was  at  an  end,  Shelvock  sailed  with 
the  Sacra  Familia  to  California,  and  anchored  at  the  Porto  Seguro,  of  Woodes 
Rogers,  on  the  13th  August,  1721,  determined  to  hunt  up  the  annual  galleon 
from  Manilla,  and  capture  her,  if  possible,  as  he  had  no  means  to  verify  if  Spain 
and  England  were  at  peace  or  not :  in  fact,  he  "took  the  chances"  to  be  treated 
as  a  pirate. 

This  great  object  of  their  enterprise  not  appearing  immediately — the  name  of 
which  they  had  learned  was  the  Santo  Christo,  of  40  guns — and  his  crew  and 
ship  being  in  a  state  of  disorder,  and  unfitted  to  meet  an  enemy  or  bad  weather, 
on  the  ISth  of  August  Shelvock  made  sail  from  California  for  the  island  of  Guam, 
where  he  arrived  in  bad  plight  on  the  1st  of  October.  After  a  short  detention 
here,  he  quitted  Guam  and  arrived  at  Macao  on  the  11th  November,  and  "get- 
ting into  a  row "  with  the  mandarins,  who  "  squeezed "  him  to  the  tune  of 
several  thousands,  sold  his  vessel,  divided  some  200,000  dollars  amongst  his  crew, 
retaining  a  small  amount  for  his  owners — certain  "gentlemen  adventurers," 
whose  backers  seem  to  have  been  such  high  wigs  as  the  Earl  of  Berkeley  and 
the  Lords  of  the  Admiralty — and  finally  took  passage  in  the  Cadogan,  East  India- 
man,  and  arrived  in  England  on  the  SOth  July,  1722,  after  an  absence  of  forty- 
three  months.  Shelvock,  some  time  afterward,  was  arraigned  before  the  English 
courts  as  a  pirate  and  swindler,  and  his  ovrners  were  much  incensed  with  him, 
as,  from  his  want  of  judgment,  management,  and  prudence,  and  the  lack  of  those 
qualities  in  Clipperton,  the  whole  affair  turned  out  a  ruinous  speculation.  His 
work,  and  that  of  Betagh,  who  was  in  the  Success  with  Clipperton,  contains  many 
curious  and  interesting  matters  relating  to  the  navigation,  trade,  and  countries 
of  the  American  Pacific  coasts,  which  subsequent  explorations  materially  verify, 
but  they  are  not  to  be  compared  in  value  to  those  of  Dampier  and  Rogers.  His 
description  of  the  Indians  and  country  around  Cape  San  Lucas  occupies  25 
pages.  The  Indians  treated  him  as  well  as  they  did  Rogers,  as  he  fed  them  on 
sweetmeats  as  the  latter  had  done,  but  he  does  not  speak  of  the  Jesuit  settle- 
ments then  going  on  farther  north,  and  nothing  in  knowledge  was  further  gained 
than  was  shown  by  his  predecessor. 

On  his  passage  from  Cape  San  Lucas,  at  the  distance  of  some  110  leagues 
from  it  to  the  west-southwest,  in  about  latitude  21°,  Shelvock  discovered  a  rocky 
island  of  seven  or  eight  leagues'  circumference,  which  was  named  after  him  by 
his  men.  This  island  is  represented  on  many  maps  and  charts  to  this  day  as 
Shelvock's  Island,  but  Burney  and  other  geographers  say  it  is  the  same  as  the 
Rocas  Partidas  of  Villalobos,  described  by  that  navigator  before  1543  ;  but  to 
this  day  the  question  is  not  properly  settled,  many  subsequent  navigators  con- 
founding it  with  the  Islas  Kubladas,  farther  east,  or  with  the  Islas  Los  Alijos, 
several  hundred  miles  west  of  Magdalena  Bay.  In  the  chart  of  Shelvock's  voyage, 
he  sets  down  California  as  an  island. 

In  the  year  1708  the  French  ship  Saint  Antoine,  under  Captain  Frondac, 
made  a  voyage,  between  May  and  July,  from  China  to  the  Avest  coast,  and  hav- 
ing steered  north  as  high  as  45°,  he  met  the  usual  westerly  winds,  which  brought 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  39 

him  to  the  north  California  coasts,  from  wliencc  he  dropjicd  down  to  a  good  port 
in  Lower  California  in  31°,  where  he  so  greatly  refreshed  his  crew  as  to  lose  but 
few  of  his  men  by  scurvy  and  bad  provisions,  and  proved  the  want  of  good  man- 
agement in  the  Manilla  galleons.  This  port,  it  would  seem,  must  have  been  in 
tlie  vicinities  to  the  north  of  Cedros  Island.  Frondac's  venture  was  sold  by  him 
in  Peru  and  Chili  at  great  profit,  but  the  rcnniants,  as  contraband  cargo  from 
China,  permitted  to  be  landed  only  at  Acapulco,  Avas  seized  at  Concepcion 
in  Chili,  and  the  Frenchman  put  in  prison,  from  which  he  was  only  released  by 
the  Spanish  comandante,  after  being  "  squeezed"  in  the  snug  sum  of  $14,000. 

In  the  sunnner  of  1G97  an  Italian  traveller,  Giovani  Francisco  Gemelli  Car- 
reri,  celebrated  in  geography  and  Mexican  history,  under  the  name  of  Gemelli, 
made  a  voyage  in  the  galleon  from  Manilla  to  Acapulco,  which  is  described  in 
his  six  years'  journey  round  the  world,  published  in  Italy  about  1720,  and  after- 
ward in  several  English  and  French  collections.  Gemelli  relates  a  sad  descrip- 
tion of  the  ravages  of  the  scurvy  among  the  crew  of  his  ship,  and,  from  his  state- 
ment, it  appears  to  have  been  wholly  owing  to  ignorance  and  filth.  He  gives 
some  immaterial  account  of  the  voyage  in  sight  of  the  California  coasts  to  Cape 
San  Lucas,  and  mentions,  among  other  things,  the  immense  quantities  of  sea- 
weed they  fell  in  with  in  the  vicinity  of  the  shores.  In  the  latter  part  of  1697 
he  arrived  at  Acapulco,  and  afterward  travelled  many  months  in  the  interior  of 
Mexico,  and  collected  accounts  and  pictures  of  the  Aztec  hieroglyphics  and  tra- 
ditions, which  are  considered  of  superioi-  value  to  this  day,  and  often  mentioned 
by  numboldt,Prescott,  and  other  eminent  writers  in  American  history. 

NOTICES     OF    THE    COASTS     OF     LOWER    CALIFORXIA    FROM     1725-1800 SPANISH 

PILOT-BOOK  FEOM    MANILLA  TO  ACAPULCO  ANTE   1740 THE    ADMIRAL    OF    THE 

GALLEONS VOYAGES  OF  ANSON,  MALASPINA,  AND  OTHERS. 

In  a  scarce  old  nautical  work,  published  in  Spanish  at  Manilla  in  1734,  by 
Admiral  Cabrero  Bueno,  an  excellent  derrotero,  or  coast  pilot-guide  for  the 
ocean  parts  of  Lower  California,  is  given  between  San  Diego  and  Cape  San 
Lucas,  the  knowledge  of  which  appears  to  have  been  acquired  in  the  course  of 
many  j-ears'  sailing  along  the  coasts  in  the  service  of  the  galleons  for  xVcapulco. 
This  work  seems  to  be  almost  entirely  unknown  to  English,  French,  or  Ameri- 
can hydrographists,  as  far  as  we  are  aware,  except  by  Admiral  Burney  in  his 
work  on  Pacific  voyages  of  1810.  The  meagre  remarks  of  Burney  indicate  that 
he  was  not  personally  acquainted  with  the  valuable  contents  of  the  volume  per- 
taining to  the  Californias,  nor  can  we  find  it  in  Navarctte's  historical  sketch  of 
Spanish  northwest  voyages  of  1802,  though  it  is  merely  alluded  to  in  Paulou's 
life  of  Junipero  Serra.  The  work  of  the  Manilla  admiral  is  the  best  punctuated 
and  most  carefully-detailed  of  any  work  in  history  or  hydrography  which  has 
come  under  our  notice  on  the  Lower  California  coasts ;  and,  though  evidentl}' 
using  Viscaino's  materials  of  1G02,  makes  numerous  and  excellent  additions  to 
them  of  a  highly  practical  nature.  The  bay  of  Todos  Santos,  below  the  Coro- 
nados,  is  put  down  in  32°  larffo,  or  a  little  over;  San  Marcos  in  32°  escasos, 
or  short,  with  the  bay  of  San  Quintin  near  by;  the  bay  of  Virgins  in  31|-°; 
San  Geronimo  Island  in  3H°  ;  next  to  this  is  the  island  of  Cenizas,  then  the 
mesas  or  table-lands  of  Juan  Gomez,  then  the  bay  of  San  Francisco,  then  Cape 
San  Augustin,  after  which  are  found  Natividad  and  Isle  Cerros,  then  San  Barto- 
lom6  port,  then  Los  Abreojos,  then  Asuncion  Island,  after  which  are  found 
the  it-land  of  San  Roque  and  the  bay  of  Ballenas.  The  next  locality  of  importance 
mentioned  is  the  bay  of  Magdalena,  under  25°,  the  description  of  which  agrees, 
as  far  as  it  goes,  with  our  present  accounts.  A  bay  farther  in  the  southern  parts 
of  Magdalena  is  called  the  bay  of  Santa  Marina  in  24V°,  evidently  near  the 
island  Santa  Margarita ;  farther  to  the  south  is  the  Sierra  Enfado,  under  23|-°, 
after  which  you  shortly  arrive  at  the  extremit}^  of  the  peninsula  known  as  Cape 


40  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

San  Lucas,  near  to  which,  to  the  northeast,  is  the  bay  of  San  Bernab6.  Many 
other  anchorages  and  localities  are  mentioned  -with  much  particularity,  but  not 
by  name  as  above  noted ;  the  titles  of  the  points  given  are  in  the  words  of 
Cabrera  Bueno.  We  know  of  no  recent  work  which  is  as  reliable  as  a  coast 
pilot  of  the  ocean  coasts  of  Lower  California  as  that  of  the  Manilla  navigator, 
and  it  would  answer  to  make  a  voyage  by  to  this  day.  He  places  the  island  of 
Guadalupe  in  29°  lat.  and  104°  30'  long.,  and  Cape  San  Lucas  in  22°  521  lat. 
and  113°  13'  long.,  both  west  of  Teneriffe  according  to  the  old  Spanish  custom. 
The  island  of  Guadalupe  was  long  disputed  as  a  myth,  but  its  definite  locality 
was  only  finally  established  in  geography  in  1837  by  Admiral  Du  Petit  Thouars 
at  27°  7'  25"  of  lat.,  and  in  130°  42'  45"  long,  west  of  Paris.  The  French 
navigator  in  the  same  year  also  fixed  the  position  of  the  rocky  islets  called  Los 
Alijos,  discovered  by  the  Manilla  captain,  Marquina,  in  1791,  some  150  miles 
west  of  Magdalena  Bay,  in  lat.  24°  57'  30",  and  long.  118°  5'  50"  west  of  Paris. 
It  will  be  seen  from  these  differences  that  Cabrera  Bueno's  instruments  were  ex- 
tremely defective,  but  that  was  a  quality  all  nautical  observations  partook  of 
before  the  year  1800. 

In  sequence  of  authorities  ought  not  to  be  omitted  the  celebrated  voyage 
round  the  world  of  Lord  Anson  in  the  frigate  Centurion,  which  left  England  in 
1740,  and  returned  from  China  in  June,  1744.  This  expedition  formed  a  squad- 
ron, and  consisted  of  the  Centurion,  of  60  guns  and  400  men  ;  the  Gloucester, 
of  50  guns  and  300  men;  the  Severn,  of  50  guns  and  300  men ;  the  Pearl,  of 
40  guns  and  250  men  ;  the  Wager,  of  28  guns  and  160  men;  the  Tryal,  of  8 
guns  and  100  men;  and  two  victualling-vessels.  Besides,  there  were  on  board 
470  soldiers,  or  marines,  of  a  land  force,  under  Colonel  Cracherode.  The  design 
was  to  annoy  the  towns  and  commerce  of  Spanish  America  on  the  west  coast, 
and  especially  to  look  out  for  and  capture  the  Manilla  galleon.  After  doing 
much  damage  below  Panama,  and  getting  several  prizes,  and  losing  or  retiring 
of  several  of  his  squadron,  and  losing  large  numbers  of  his  men  by  scurvy,  the 
Centurion  and  Gloucester,  with  three  small  vessels  captured  as  prizes,  arrived 
off  Acapulco  in  the  spring  of  1742.  After  anxious  seeking  for  this  great  prize 
without  result,  and  without  touching  on  any  2Xirt  of  the  coasts  of  California,  of 
which  considerable  is  mentioned,  in  May,  1742,  Anson  burnt  his  prizes,  and 
with  the  Gloucester  sailed  from  his  cruising-ground,  and,  stretching  oiFon  the  gal- 
leons' route,  refitted  at  the  island  of  Tinian,  near  Guam,  and  from  thence  sailed 
to  Macao,  from  which  place  he  returned  in  the  Centurion  to  the  Manilla  vicini- 
ties to  look  for  the  galleon.  In  the  middle  of  June  the  Centurion  came  up  with 
the  Cabadonga  galleon,  of  36  guns  and  550  men,  under  Captain  Geronimo  Mon- 
tero,  and,  after  a  desperate  action,  Anson  captured  her  with  nearly  a  million  and 
one-third  dollars  in  silver,  which,  with  the  galleon  and  former  captures  below 
Panama,  were  valued  at  5,000,000  dollars.  The  Gloucester  had  been  scuttled 
and  burnt  at  sea  before  arriving  at  Tinian,  her  crew  joining  the  Centurion. 
After  the  capture  of  the  Cabadonga,  he  sailed  for  Canton,  and  from  thence  to 
England,  where  he  arrived  in  the  midst  of  "the  old  French  War."  For  this 
"  streak  of  luck  "  Anson  was  given  a  patent  of  nobility,  which  his  heirs  enjoy 
to  this  day.  In  his  capture  of  the  galleon  he  obtained  valuable  charts  and 
pilot-books  of  the  galleons'  route  and  of  the  coasts  of  California,  which  were 
published  in  his  accounts  of  the  voyage  in  1748,  where  as  late  as  that  date  Cali- 
fornia was  set  down  as  an  island  !  This  voyage  of  Anson  subsequently  had  a 
most  telling  influence  on  the  afiairs  of  the  countries  of  the  west  coast  of  America, 
and  wonderfully  elated  the  people  of  England  and  the  American  colonies,  as 
much  as  it  chagrined  the  Government  and  people  of  Spain  and  her  possessions, 
Anson's  force  being  much  inferior,  though  better  armed,  than  the  Spaniards. 
Anson's  brave  opponent  was  an  old  California  and  galleon  navigator,  and  is 
mentioned  in  Vcnegas's  work,  and  was  wounded  in  the  action. 

The  next  nautical  notice  we  have  of  the  coasts  of  the  peninsula  is  by  the 


EXPLORATION'    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNL\.  41 

celebrated  navigator  Alexander  Malaspina,  who,  from  some  grudge  among  the 
ollioials  of  Spain,  was  incarcerated  by  the  orders  of  Godoy,  Prince  of  the  Peace, 
in  the  castle  of  Corunna,  on  his  return  to  Spain  from  his  voyage  round  the 
world,  about  1794,  and  was  not  liberated  until,  at  the  express  request  of  the  Em- 
peror Xapoleon,  about  the  year  1808.  Having  touched  at  Acapulco,  Monterey, 
and  many  points  above  Cape  Mendocino  to  Mount  St.  Elias  in  1791,  in  the  fiiil  of 
that  year  he  returned  on  his  steps  to  Acapulco  along  the  coast  of  the  peninsula, 
and  examined  the  positions  of  the  island  of  Guadalupe,  and  also  of  the  Mission 
of  San  Jose  delCabo.  The  expedition  of  Malaspina  consisted  of  the  corvettes 
Descubierta  and  Atrevida,  iu  which  went  as  his  assistants  the  two  afterward 
celebrated  hydrograpliists  Bustamente  and  Bauza,  who,  with  Malaspina,  greatly 
improved  the  chartography  of  the  west  coasts  between  Panama  and  Behrinij's 
Straits.  Unfortunately,  the  Spanish  Government  has  never  allowed  the  journals 
of  this  expedition  to  be  printed. 

On  the  return  of  the  schooners  Sutil  and  Mejicana  from  exploring  the 
Straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca  in  the  fall  of  1792,  their  commanders,  Galiano  and 
Yaldez,  kept  those  vessels  close  to  the  coasts  of  the  peninsula,  but  without  com- 
ing to  anchor  at  any  place.  The  latitudes  and  the  longitudes  of  the  Alijos 
Rocks  and  of  Cape  San  Lucas  were  examined,  but  without  landing  ;  but  nothing 
gained  in  science  over  what  had  been  noticed  by  Malaspina,  Marquina,  and 
others.  Both  Galiano  and  Yaldez,  with  several  other  Spanish  naval  officers  who 
served  in  California,  were  in  the  fight  against  Nelson  at  the  battle  of  Tra- 
falgar. 

Xone  of  the  expeditions  of  Byron,  1764,  Wallis,  1767,  Carteret,  1768,  Bou- 
gainville, 1768,  Cook's  three  voyages,  1769  to  1780,  La  Perouse,  1785,  nor  those 
of  any  of  the  Dutch  navigators  of  the  eighteenth  century  wdio  left  published  ac- 
counts, ever  touched  on  the  coasts  of  Lower  California ;  nor  did  any  Spanish 
one,  except  at  Cape  San  Lucas.  Li  1793  Captain  George  Vancouver,  in  the 
Discovery  sloop-of-war,  on  his  return  from  Monterey  to  England,  stopped  at 
San  Diego,  and  afterward  sailed  down  insight  of  the  coast  of  Lower  California, 
but  he  never  brought  his  vessel  to  anchor  in  any  place — a  matter  Findley,  in 
1851,  does  not  make  us  aware  of,  but  reference  to  the  original  vovagc,  pub- 
hshed  in  1798,  shows  the  fact.  Vancouver's  remarks  on  the  peninsular  lines 
are  therefore  of  little  exact  value  either  in  geography  or  hydrography. 

Between  the  years  1784  and  1800,  American  and  English  whalers,  sealers, 
and  other  hunters,  began  to  visit  the  coasts  of  Baja  California,  and  some  of  them 
are  stated  to  have  made  immense  profit'^,  but  no  account  of  these  ventures  has 
been  printed  to  our  knowledge,  or  the  sciences  of  navigation  and  geography 
benefited  from  their  enterprises — their  remarks  being  confined  either  to  the 
islands  and  coasts  of  Mexico  below  the  gulf,  or  to  those  of  Alta  California  be- 
tween San  Diego  and  Behring's  Straits. 


CHAPTER  VHL 

NOTICES    OF    VOYAGES    FftOM    1800  TO    1846  TOUCHING    THE    PENINSULA — BOSTON 
VOYAGE    OF    1808    MAKES    A    MINT    OF    MONEY. 

In  a  fur-trading  and  otter-hunting  expedition,  fitted  out  from  Boston  in  1800, 
Captain  O'Keene  rediscovered  the  bay  of  Virgenes,  now  often  called  San 
Quintin,  whereas  present  accounts  make  them"  two  localities  within  a  few- 
leagues  of  each  other.  This  voyage  is  stated  in  some  old  magazine  to  have  re- 
turned immense  profits. 

In  December  of  the  year  1807  the  ship  Dromio,  of  600  tons,  belonging  to 
Boston,  commanded  by  an  old  Northwest  trader,  and  carrying  20  guns  and  108 
men,  sailed  from  that  port  for  a  smuggling  voyage  on  the  west  coast  of  America. 
After  making  many  good  sales  between  Chili  and  Mexico,  she  arrived  at  Shel- 


42  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AXD 

voclc's  Island,  southwest  from  Cape  San  Lucas,  near  21°  latitude,  in  Xovember, 
1808,  and  employed  her  cresv  in  killing  fur  seals,  of  Avhicli  tliey  succeeded  in 
accumulating  in  the  course  of  a  fortnight  3,000  skins,  worth  much  good  money 
then  in  the  Canton  market,  where  the  ship  was  bound.  From  this  island,  the 
latitude  of  which  is  not  stated,  they  went  to  Guaymas  in  December,  and  sold 
some  $150,000  of  goods,  and  from  thence  to  San  Jose  del  Cabo ;  at  hoih  these 
places  the  ship's  crew  were  treated  with  great  kindness  aud  liberality.  Leaving 
San  Jose  on  the  31st  December,  they  arrived  at  the  bay  of  Todos  Santos,  on 
4th  January,  1809,  which  he  places 'in  31°  36'  lat.  and  116°  22'  long.,  and 
which  is  to  the  north  of  the  bay  of  Virgenes.  Here  many  Indians  and  but  few 
Spaniards  were  met  with,  though  they  were  not  far  from  the  mission  of  San 
Miguel,  and  succeeded,  after  trading  with  the  people  for  34  days,  in  exchanging 
most  of  the  remnants  of  their  cargo  for  1,700  fur-otter  skins.  'Tor  their  cargo 
shipped  at  Boston  tv/o  years  ago,"  says  Captain  Little,  who  wrote  an  account 
of  the  voyage,  "  we  had  in  its  place  8650,000  (coined),  840,000  in  old  silver 
plate,  810,000  m  plata  Jina  and  pearls,  3,200  fur-seal  skins,  and  1,700  fur-otter 
skins. 

On  the  7th  February,  1809,  they  left  Todos  Santos  for  China,  and  arrived 
at  the  Sandwich  Islands  on  the  25th  of  the  same  month,  and  at  Canton  on 
the  10th  of  May,  where  their  silver  and  fur  cargo  v;ere  sold  at  such  spinning 
profits  that  it  purchased  a  cargo  of  China  teas  andsilksfor  the  Dromio,  and  filled, 
the  ship  Baltic,  of  Providence,  with  another.  These  two  ships  finally  sailed  for 
home,  via  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  having  escaped  the  French  and  English 
cruisers,  arrived  at  Boston  on  the  4th  of  March,  1810,  after  one  of  the  most 
fortunate  and  profitable  voyages  ever  made  out  of  that  port,  the  tea  alone  in 
those  days  doubling  net  profits  on  the  price  in  China. 

In  consequence  of  the  wars  in  Europe  and  the  revolt  of  the  Spanish  colonists  in 
Mexico  and  South  America,  and  the  absurd  restrictions  imposed  on  commerce 
by  Spain,  all  business  carried  on  with  the  "West  Coast  was  contraband  and  clan- 
destine between  1800  and  1825,  when  the  mother-country  gave  up  the  contest, 
and  the  legitimate  trade  of  the  "West  Coast  began  sensibly  to  augment,  particu- 
larly from  England  and  France,  and  by  the  year  1835  the  influence  of  the  new 
system  eff'ected  great  changes  in  the  tv/o  Californias.  Many  whalers,  scalers, 
and  otter-hunters,  between  1808  and  1840,  frequented  San  Jose  del  Cabo,  La 
Paz,  Magdalena,  Viscaino,  Turtle,  Ballcnas,  Virgenes,  San  Quintin,  and  Todos 
Santos  Bays,  under  A.merican,  French,  Kussian,  and  British  colors,  the  greater 
number  of  which  were  American,  and  valuable  cargoes  of  sperm-oil  and  other 
])roducts  of  the  sea  Avcre  also  obtained.  The  northern  mission  districts  between 
\'iscaino  and  Todos  Santos  Bays  were  often  traded  with  by  these  vessels ;  but 
by  the  year  1835,  after  the  secularization  of  the  missions,  those  vicinities  became 
so  poor  from  this  cause  and  from  the  revolts  of  their  Indians  as  to  ofter  no  mo- 
tive for  any  extensive  traflickings  or  smugglings. 

In  the  year  1826  Messrs.  Martin  and  Jacques  Lafittc,  in  conjunction  with 
M.  Laval,  bankers  and  capitalists  of  France,  well  known  afterward  in  French 
politics  and  finance,  fitted  out  the  armed  merchant-ship  Heros,  under  Captain 
Augouste  Duhaut  Cilley,  an  old  sea-captain  and  Chevalier  of  the  Legion  of 
Honor,  for  a  mercantile  adventure  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  the  west  coast  of 
America,  and  China.  She  was  a  fine-built  large  vessel,  and  well  armed,  and 
with  a  riumerous  and  well-appointed  crew  of  over  100  men,  properly  officered 
with  lieutenants,  etc.,  etc.,  carrying  one  of  the  best-selected  cargoes  ever  sent 
from  France  to  the  I'acific  coasts.  This  voyage  seemed  to  have  grown  out  of 
that  of  Captain  Camillo  dc  Roquefeuille  in'  the  ship  Bourdclais,  of  Bordeaux, 
who  traded  on  the  California  coasts  from  1819  to  1821,  and  who  was  a  friend 
of  Duhaut  Cilley.  Sailing  from  Havre  on  the  10th  of  April,  1826,  the  Heros 
doubled  the  Horn  and  traded  on  the  coast  of  South  America  until  the  latter 
part  of  September  of  that  year,  and  finally  arrived  in  California,  at  San  Jose 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNLV.  43 

del  Cal)0,  near  the  end  of  October.  lie  roniained  in  this  part  of  the  peninsula 
till  the  last  of  November,  trading-  with  the  people  on  advantag-eous  and  friendly 
terms,  and  mentions  the  kind  treatment  he  received  from  Padre  Tomas  Ahu- 
mada,  the  superior  of  the  missions,  then  in  his  GStli  year,  who  had  lived  in  the 
country  16  years,  and  by  the  military  chief,  Colonel  Jose  Marie  Padres,  and 
Don  xVntonio  Xavarri),  the  administrator  of  the  customs,  and  a  solitary  French- 
man by  the  name  of  Bcllo.  Colonel  Padres  was  a  native  of  La  Puebla  ui 
Mexico,  and  had  served  in  the  revolutionary  wars  under  President  Victoria;  he 
■was  the  same  who  afterward  came  to  Monterey,  with  Ilijar,  with  the  colonists 
of  Mexico,  about  1833, 

The  observations  of  Duliaut  Cilley  in  Lower  California  do  not  extend  far- 
ther than  the  country  between  the  cape  and  the  Pical  de  San  Antonio  to  the 
northeast,  and  they  evince  much  that  is  interesting  and  valuable  as  to  the  nature 
and  resources  cf  the  country.  He  left  afterward  for  Mazatlan,  and  from  thence 
visited  the  coasts  of  Alta  California,  trading  for  several  months,  in  1827-28,  at 
San  Diego,  San  Pedro,  Santa  Barbara,  Monterey,  Santa  Cruz,  San  Francisco, 
and  Ross,  returning  a  second  time  to  Cape  San  Lucas  and  Mazatlan,  and  mak- 
ing another  trip  to  Callao,  from  whence  he  returned  to  L^^pper  California. 
lie  finally  left  California  for  the  Sandwich  Islands  in  September,  1828,  and  ar- 
rived at  Canton  on  the  25th  December  of  the  same  year,  and,  after  freighting  his 
ship,  finally  reached  Havre  on  the  19th  of  July,  1829.  This  work  of  Duhaut 
Cilley  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  written  on  the  two  Californias  before  1840, 
and  his  voyage  is  said  to  have  terminated  very  profitably  for  the  owners,  one 
of  whom,  Jacques  Lafitte,  became  a  celebrated  minister  of  the  French  Cabinet, 
and  a  wealthy  and  well-known  banker,  connected  with  American  commerce. 

The  voyage  of  the  Blossom,  under  Captain  F.  W.  Beechey  (afterward  ad- 
miral), in  1825-'28,  with  whom  went  Lieutenant  (now  Admiral)  Belcher,  did  not 
land  on  the  coasts  of  Lower  California,  but  Belcher  returned  in  1837-'39  in  the 
Sul]:)hur,  having  as  consort  the  Starling  under  Lieutenant  Ivellett,  on  another 
California  exploration,  of  wliom  we  shall  presently  give  account,  as  he  surveyed 
spme_  ocean  points  of  the  peninsula  with  care,  and  which  are  used  in  naviga- 
tion at  the  present  time. 

Between  the  years  1825  and  1831,  Captain  Benjamin  Morrcll  made  four 
voyages  to  the  Pacific  from  New  York  in  the  clipper-ship  Margaret  Oakley, 
and  visited  and  traded  largely  in  the  ports,  islands,  bays,  and  anchorages  of  the 
two  Californias,  of  which  accounts  Avere  published  by  himself  about  1835,  and 
by  Captain  Jacobs  in  1844,  for  notations  of  which  see  our  "  Bihliografia  Cali- 
fornica"  of  18G3-'6G.  His  principal  business  seems  to  have  been  seal  and  otter 
hunting,  and  looking  up  islands  of  guano,  intercalated  with  many  adventurous 
snaps  of  smuggling.  His  accounts  are  much  ridiculed,  but  we  cannot  sec  for 
what  good  reason,  as  his  authority  has  been  quoted  by  eminent  navigators,  and 
much  that  he  narrates  on  Upper  California  has  been  verified  since  the  epoch 
of  gold.  He  mentions  the  immense  numbers  of  whales,  seals,  otters,  and  fish 
of  all  kinds  when  he  visited  San  Quintin  Bay,  Cenizas  Island,  and  other  points 
on  the  peninsula  coast. 

In  December,  1835,  Captain  Beechey  was  sent  from  England,  in  the  Sulphur 
and  Starling,  on  another  expedition  to  the  coasts  of  the  Californias  and  the 
Northwest,  to  complete  his  surveys  of  182G-'28.  Beechey  invaliding  at  Val- 
paraiso, Sir  Edward  Belclicr  assumed  command  of  the  expedition  at  Panama, 
the  Starling  being  placed  under  Lieutenant  (now  Captain)  Kellctt,  whose  name 
is  so  well  known  in  California,  and  in  1837-38  proceeded  to  complete  the  sur- 
veys of  the  coasts  between  Behring's  Straits  and  Panama,  from  which  he  re- 
turned to  explore  those  of  certain  parts  of  the  peninsula  below  San  Diego  in 
October  and  November,  1839.  Entering  San  Quintin,  Belcher  fixed  the  position 
of  the  sandy  point  on  the  left  side  of  the  entrance,  confirming  the  name  of  the  bay 
as  San  Quintin,  as  in  contradistinction  to  that  of  Las  Virgenes  and  Five  Hilia 


44  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

Bay,  and  making  no  further  mention  of  the  true  Las  Virgenes  a  little  farther 
south:  the  sandv  point  of  San  Quintin  is  placed  by  him  in  32°  22',  and  lono-itude 
115°  56'  33". 

From  thence  he  moved  down  to  the  bay  of  Turtles,  or  San  Bartolome, 
the  northern  head  of  which  he  placed  in  latitude  27°  40',  and  114°  51'  20" 
longitude.  On  the  31st  October  he  anchored  in  the  bay  of  Magdalena,  of  which 
he  made  a  survey  of  considerable  detail.  Belcher  spent  not  less  than  18  days 
in  this  great  bay,  leaving  for  Cape  San  Lucas  on  the  18th  November,  but,  singu- 
lar to  say,  he  neither  mentions  its  proper  dimensions,  nor  fixes  the  latitude  or 
longitude  of  a  single  one  of  its  points,  and  this  omission  occurs  also  for  Cape  San 
Lucas,  that  is,  in  his  narrative  now  before  us  (sec  octavo  edition  of  1843,  vol.  i.), 
and  occupying  six  pages.  This  was  probably  done  from  some  secret  political 
motive,  as  the  French  frigate  A^enus,  under  Du  Petit  Thouars,  was  then  in  the 
neighborhood,  and  Wiltes's  expedition  also  was  expected  on  the  California 
coasts.  On  the  20th  November  he  arrived  at  the  San  Lucas  Cape,  and  after- 
ward made  survey  of  the  islands  of  Socorro  and  Clarion,  farther  to  the  south- 
ward. Belcher  afterward  visited  the  Sandwich  and  many  other  Polynesian 
islands  farther  westward,  from  whence  he  departed  for  China  and  took  an  active 
part  in  the  ''Opium  War"  of  1840-'41,  then  being  waged  between  the  English 
and  Chinese.  In  1841  he  left  for  England  via  the  Moluccas,  Singapore,  Ceylon, 
the  Seychelles,  and  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  aud  finally  arrived  at  Spithead  on 
the  19th  July,  1842,  after  an  absence  of  nearly  seven  years,  and  making  the 
most  extended  and  lengthened  voyage  ever  made  by  any  government.  Findley, 
in  his  "  Pacific  Ocean  Directory  of  1851,"  in  two  separate  portions  of  the  work, 
says  Belcher  makes  Point  Delgado  the  position  of  his  observatory  in  latitude 
38°  24'  18",  and  longitude  112°  6'  21",  a  most  extraordinary  mistake,  diftieult 
to  account  for,  the  place  being  under  latitude  25°  in  the  chart  attached  to  Bel- 
cher's own  volume.  All  'this  stuff"  and  nonsense  about  Magdalena  was  doubtless 
owing  to  the  national  jealousy  growing  out  of  the  Oregon  dispute,  as  Belcher's 
book  was  published  when  this  storm  in  politics  was  then  getting  under  high- 
pressure  culminations,  and  John  Bull  determined  to  dole  out  his  nautical  knowl- 
edge in  pennyworths  of  a  bad  quality. 

While  Belcher's  survey  was  in  progress,  the  Government  of  Louis  Philippe 
fitted  out  an  expedition  from  Brest  in  December,  1836,  in  the  frigate  Venus, 
under  Captain  (now  Admiral)  Du  Petit  Thouars,  who  visited  almost  the  entire 
west  coasts  of  the  two  Ameiicas,  particularly  Upper  and  Lower  California,  and 
many  of  the  Pacific  islands  and  groups,  and  finally  returned  to  France  in  June, 
1839.  This  voyage  is  remarkable  from  the  important  events  grow'iiig  out  of 
the  French  occupation  of  the  Society  and  Marquesas  groups,  in  Avhich  the 
French  admiral  took  an  active  part,  and  for  the  valuable  and  extensive  additions 
made  in  the  sciences  of  hydrography,  geography,  and  natural  history  of  the 
countries  visited  by  the  Venus,  made  by  the  officers  and  naturalists  of  the  ex- 
pedition, who  are  Jiow  distinguished  savans  in  France.  The  Venus  visited  the 
bay  of  Magdalena,  and  the  French  officers  observed  with  proper  instruments 
several  of  its  localities,  and  also  fixed  the  latitudes  and  longitudes  of  the  Alijos 
Rocks,  140  miles  to  the  west  of  Magdalena,  discovered  by  Captain  Marquina 
of  the  San  Andres  galleon  in  1791,  and  those  of  the  island  of  Guadalupe,  men- 
tioned by  Cabrera  Bucno  and  other  Spanish  navigators  between  1720  and  1800. 

The  United  States  exploring  expedition  of  18"38-'41,  under  Lieutenant  (now 
Admiral)  "Wilkes,  did  not  visit  any  portion  of  the  peninsula  of  Lower  Cali- 
fornia. 

In  the  summer  of  1847  the  English  frigate  Spy,  under  Captain  S.  O.  "\.Vool- 
ridge,  visited  the  port  of  Guaymas,  and  with  his  officer,  Mr.  Jeftrey,  made  care- 
ful examinations  of  its  soundings  and  anchorages.  The  same  officers  also  crossed 
over  to  the  peninsula,  a  few  days  after,  and  made  similar  explorations  of  the 
bay  of  Moleje,  but  he  does  not  appear  to  have  fixed  the  latitude  and  longitude 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  45 

of  any  of  it?  points.  "Woolrido-o,  however,  visited  La  Paz  and  the  nciichhoring 
islands,  and  fixes  the  north  end  of  Espiritu  Santo  in  hititnde  24°  36',  and  longi- 
tude 110°  22',  and  the  north  end  of  Ceralho  in  hxtitudc  24°  23',  and  the  longi- 
tude  of  its  souUi  end  iu  109°  45';  the  town  of  La  Paz  is  placed  in  latitude 
24°  10',  and  lonoitu.le  109°  45'. 

Between  1837-'39  Dr.  F.  D.  Bennet  made  a  vojage  in  an  English  whaling- 
vessel  to  the  Pacific  coasts,  in  which  they  captured  many  sperm  and  other 
whales  on  the  coasts  of  Lower  California,  and  visited  the  settlements  near  Cape 
San  Lucas.  Between  1836  and  1846  great  numbers  of  whalers,  English,  French, 
and  American,  recruited  with  much  advantage  in  these  southern  settlements, 
principally  at  La  Paz  and  San  Jose  del  Cabo,  and  always  found  supplies  of 
wood,  water,  fish,  fruit,  beef,  and  vegetables  at  reasonable  prices.  As  many  as 
ten  whalers  have  been  anchored  at  a  time  in  these  ports,  and  they  are  still 
resorted  to,  and  offer  cheap,  reasonable,  and  convenient  outfits  to  the  best  seal- 
ing and  whaling  grounds. 

In  June,  1845,  the  British  Government  sent  the  fi'igatc  Herald,  of  26  guns, 
under  Captain  Henry  Kellett,  and  the  tender  Pandora,  under  Lieutenant  James 
Wood,  for  a  voyage  of  survey  and  exploration  to  the  coasts  above  Panama  and 
to  the  Arctic,  and  in  the  coui'se  of  which  was  also  ordered  to  search  for  the 
remains  of  Sir  John  Franklin  in  the  xVrctic  Seas  above*Behring's  Straits.  Kel- 
lett had  formerly  served  under  Belcher  iu  the  California  waters  ten  years  before, 
and  was  now  accompanied  by  several  naturalists,  and  officers  whose  names 
have  since  become  celebrated  in  the  natural  and  maritime  sciences,  and  the 
fruits  of  the  Herald's  surveys  and  labors  were  an  immense  addition  to  human 
knowledge,  of  "which  a  sketch  may  be  seen  in  the  volumes  of  Seeman,  Forbes, 
and  their  confreres,  printed  after  1853.  Kellett  sailed  from  San  Francisco  in 
October,  1846,  and  after  surveying  several  islands  in  the  Santa  Barbara  group, 
proceeded  to  make  an  examination  of  the  Coronados  Islets  below  San  Diego, 
the  highest  peak  of  which  he  measured  as  575  feet  above  the  sea,  but  Seeman 
does  not  mention  that  any  latitudes  or  longitudes  of  it  were  fixed,  nor  that  of 
Cape  Colnett,  not  far  fi'om  the  Mission  of  Santo  Tomas,  which  they  visited  a 
few  days  after.  On  the  14th  October  they  fixed  the  position  of  the  island  of 
San  Martin  in  latitude  30°  28'  and  longitude  115°  57',  the  right-hand  peak  of 
which  was  made  567  feet  above  the  sea.  On  the  next  day  they  anchored  off 
San  Quintin  Bay,  but  made  no  observations,  and,  passing  San  Geronimo  Island 
on  the  22d,  anchored  on  the  25th  under  the  eastern  end  of  Cedros  Island.  On 
this  island  they  found  in  good  preservation,  from  the  dryness  of  the  atmosphere, 
the  head-boards  of  two  English  sailors  who  had  been  buried  there  from  London 
whalers  in  the  year  1819.  The  summit  of  the  highest  peak  of  Cedi'os  Island 
is  ))nt  down  at  2,500  feet,  and  the  position  of  the  small  bay  where  they  were 
anchored  was  fixed  in  latitude  28°  03'  and  longitude  115°  fl'.  On  the  2d  of 
November  (1846),  they  entered  ]\Iagdalena  Bay,  where  they  stopped  several 
days  to  overhaul  and  refit  the  Herald.  On  the  10th  they  left  for  Cape  San 
Lucas,  which  they  sighted  and  left  for  Mazatlan,  where  they  "arrived  on  the  12th. 
On  the  21st  they  left  Mazatlan  for  San  Bias,  and  the  lower  coast,  having  on 
board  as  passenger  no  less  a  person  than  the  Picv.  Father  Macnamara,  who  was 
making  such  a  noise  about  that  time  in  founding  his  great  colony  of  Irish  Cath- 
olic refugees  in  the  Tulare  valley  of  the  present  State  of  California.  The  Herald 
immediately  afterward  proceeded  to  survey  the  coasts  and  islands  of  the  prov- 
inces of  Veraguaand  Panama,  and  those  of  the  shores  of  the  Isthmus  of  Darien, 
Gulf  of  San  Miguel  and  vicinities,  which  are  (in  1867)  attracting  so  much  atten- 
tion in  connection  with  the  great  ship-canal. 

Eeturnin^f  from  the  northwest  coasts  in  November,  1849,  the  officers  of  the 
Herald  examined  the  coasts  between  the  cape  and  the  bay  of  Moleje,  and  iu 
February,  1850,  surveyed  (as  noted  by  Lieutenant  Ilemy  Trollopc)  the  islands 
and  points  of  those  vicinities  and  south  called  Santa  luezlslaud,  Points  Palpito 


46  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

and  Mangles  (near  wbicli  are  beantiful  valleys  and  woods),  the  bay  of  Loretto, 
Puerto  Escondido,  Carmen  Island,  and  the  Salinas  Bay,  and  the  Danzante 
Islets,  and  ha\'ing  also  examined  the  vicinities  of  the  port  of  Guayraas,  in  the 
early  part  of  March  they  fixed  the  positions  of  Santa  Cruz,  and  the  south  part 
of  Ceralbo  Island,  and  examined  the  rock  of  San  Ignacio,  and  also  Ballenas 
Bay  in  the  island  of  Espiritu  Santo.  The  only  position  which  is  fixed  in  all 
these  places  as  noted  in  Seeman's  narrative  of  the  voyage,  is  that  of  San  Jose 
del  Cabo,  of  which  Lieutenant  TroUope  gives  the  best  nautical  account  of  any 
traveller  we  have  seen,  and  which  is  set  down  as  in  latitude  23°  3'  15"  and 
longitude  109°  37'  53".  On  the  22d  March,  1850,  they  returned  to  Mazatlan. 
x\fter  again  in  vain  searching  the  Arctic  shores  for  Sir  John  Franklin's  party,  the 
Herald  left  for  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  from  thence  to  China,  Singapore,  and 
the  Cape,  and  arrived  in  England  on  the  6th  June,  1851,  after  an  absence  of  six 
years. 

In  connection  with  the  Gulf  of  California  explorations  ought  not  to  be  omit- 
ted the  Pearl-diving  and  Coral-fishery  Association  established  in  1825  at  Lon- 
don during  the  great  Anglo-Spanish- American  rage  for  mining  in  Mexico  and 
South  America,  and  which  deceived  so  many  thousands  of  credulous  people  in 
England.  This  association  sent  out  to  Lower  California,  as  their  managing- 
director.  Lieutenant  Hardy,  of  the  British  navy,  with  a  regular  diving-bell  and 
all  its  fixtures,  who,  on  his  arrival,  proceeded  to  make  explorations  of  the  pearl- 
oyster  beds  among  the  islands  above  the  Sal  Si  Puedes  and  Tiburon,  but  with- 
out eftecting  much  else  than  running  away  with  a  large  quantity  of  good  money. 
Hardy  afterward  explored  the  lower  part  of  the  Colorado,  and  travelled  overland 
from  Sonora  to  the  Rio  Grande,  and  in  his  book  added  many  facts  of  curious 
interest  and  value  on  the  condition  of  the  then  little  known  countries  of  North 
Mexico  ante  1830.  It  is  likely  that  the  new  American  diving-apparatus  would 
succeed  where  Hardy's  English  one  foiled. 

In  the  commission  formed  under  John  R.  Bartlctt  in  1S50  to  1853,  to  sur- 
vey the  new  boundary  with  Mexico  according  to  the  1848  treaty,  is  mentioned 
the  attempt  of  carrying  out  a  survey  of  the  head  of  the  gulf  imder  the  late 
Lieutenant  J.  G.  Strain,  one  of  Bartlett's  oflicers,  but  which  fell  through  from 
want  of  gov'crnraent  support. 

Between  1858  and  1860  Captain  (now  General)  Charles  P.  Stone,  a  well- 
known  officer,  wdio  Jiad  served  in  the  army  in  Mexico  and  California,  made 
many  surveys  of  the  country  in  the  northern  lands  and  coast-lines  of  Sonora, 
between  Guaymas  and  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado.  This  it  was  said  at  the 
time  was  in  unison  with  certain  mining  adventures  and  colonizations  in  Sonora, 
and  the  railroad  plans  of  General  Angel  Trias,  of  Chihuahua,  to  connect  the 
Rio  Grande  valley  with  the  port  of  Guaymas,  hut  we  are  not  aAvare  of  any 
woi'k  published  on  these  iinj^ortant  affaii's,  otherwise  than  in  brief  newspaper 
articles  in  the  California  journals. 

In  1857  the  Government  of  the  United  States  fitted  out  a  well-appointed 
expedition  to  survey  the  river  Colorado  from  its  entrance  at  the  gulf  to  its 
forthest  navigable  limit.  xY  small  steamer,  called  the  Explorer,  was  purchased, 
and  the  connnand  of  the  exploration  placed  under  Lieutenant  J.  C.  Ives,  of  the 
Topographical  Engineers,  who  was  provided  Avith  a  distinguished  staff"  of  scien- 
tific assistants  and  artists,  who  accumulated  a  vast  amount  of  valuable  facts  use- 
ful to  the  Government  and  the  public,  as  well  as  to  the  cause  of  science ; 
the  volume,  published  by  order  of  Congress  in  1861,  containing  the  results  of  the 
survey,  was  profusely  illustrated  with  every  object  of  interest  pertaining  to  one 
of  the  richest  in  minerals  and  most  extraordinary  in  physical  development  of 
any  district  on  the  earth's  surface.  Much  nseful  and  original  information  was 
collected  on  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  the  islands,  tides,  freshets,  bores,  and 
course  of  the  stream  from  its  entrance  at  the  gulf  to  Fort  Yuma,  as  well  as  of 
the  country,  Indians,  and  climate  of  that  portion  below  the  Gila,  which  belongs 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNLV.  47 

politically  to  Lower  California  and  Sonora.  The  map  of  the  course  of  the 
river  as  for  as  Fort  Ynnia  is  the  greatest  addition  ever  made  to  the  accurate 
chartogjaphy  of  any  portion  of  the  peninsula.  The  river  survey  commenced  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Colorado  on  the  28th  November,  1857,  and  ended  near  the 
Great  Canon  in  the  middle  of  April,  1858. 

In  1804,  Captain  A.  D.  Byrd,  eno-aged  for  the  seven  previous  years  as  pilot, 
etc.,  in  the  navigation  of  the  Colorado,  published  in  San  Francisco  a  new  chart 
of  the  river  from  actual  surveys  and  soundings,  commencing  at  the  entrance  of 
the  gulf,  and  ending  at  the  termination  of  ship  navigation,  or  near  Cocopat 
Slough. 

CHAPTER  IX. 

THE  NEW  GRANT  OF  COLONIZATION  TO  AMERICAN    COLONISTS EXTENT    IN    SQUARE 

MILES     AND    ACRES    OF     THIS     GRANT ALSO    OF    CALIFORNIA    AND     OTHER    PA- 
CIFIC   STATES. 

In  March,  1863,  Jacob  P.  Leese,  since  1833  a  settler  in  Alta  California,  and 
Santiago  Yiosco  of  Mexico,  obtained  from  the  government  of  Lower  California 
a  concession  of  lands  in  Lower  California,  including  all  the  country  from  the 
gulf  to  the  ocean,  and  between  the  parallels  of  Magdalena  Bay  and  those  of  the 
bay  of  San  Quintin,  or  say  from  the  latitude  of  21°  to  that  of  31°,  making  the 
limits  come  to  within  about  100  miles  below  the  American  frontier  line. 

The  southern  limits  are  bounded  by  the  line  of  24°,  running  from  the  ocean 
to  the  gulf,  and  does  not  include  any  thing  below  certain  points  in  the  bay  of 
Magdalena.  The  grant  includes  all  islands,  ports,  bays,  harbors,  fisheries,  etc., 
etc.,  both  within  the  ocean  and  the  gulf  jurisdictions  of  the  peninsula,  and  was 
made  for  the  purpose  of  introducing  colonists.  This  great  concession  is  stated 
to  cover  nearly  50,000  square  miles  of  land,  or  32,000,000  of  acres,  and  its 
terms  were  confirmed  by  the  proper  representatives  of  the  Mexican  Govern- 
ment at  the  city  of  New  York,  in  November,  1865,  by  the  further  payment  of 
$100,000,  President  Juarez  ratifying  the  contract  at  the  city  of  Chihuahua,  in 
August,  1866.  The  original  owniers  afterward  included  in  their  rights  by  pur- 
chase some  of  the  most  prominent  public  men  and  capitalists  of  California,  and 
of  New  York  and  other  Eastern  cities.  All  these  facts  were  published  in  the 
public  journals  of  the  United  States  at  the  time,  and  have  been  reverted  to  on 
many  occasions  up  to  the  present  period.  In  December,  1866,  Mr.  J.  Ross 
Browne,  the  former  Treasury  agent  of  the  United  States  for  the  Pacific  coast, 
and  well  known  in  California  as  an  old  traveller  and  author,  was  employed  by 
the  company,  with  a  competent  corps  of  gentlemen  of  scientific  character, 
residents  of  San  Francisco,  as  his  assistants,  to  make  a  thorough  exploration  of 
the  country  within  the  limits  of  the  grant,  as  its  true  character  is  very  little 
understood,  except  from  accounts  of  the  Jesuits  before  1768.  In  the  month  of 
January,  1867,  the  proprietors  of  the  concession  were  duly  incorporated  by  the 
Legislature  of  the  State  of  New  York  into  a  legal  body,  under  the  title  and 
status  of  The  Lower  California  Colonization  Land  Company. 

The  American  surveyors  estimate  that  the  peninsula  of  Lower  California 
and  its  islands  contain  200,000  square  miles  of  land,  or  128,000,000  of  acres. '^ 
The  State  of  California  contains,  according  to  the  most  recent  (1864)  calcula- 
tions of  the  United  States  Land-Office,  a  territorial  extent  of  158,687  square 
miles,  or  101,559,680  acres.  Though  no  exact  result  of  this  kind  can  ever  be 
attained  without  an  expensive  trigonometrical  survey,  and  though  Lower 
California  is  not  well  known  in  its  length  or  breadth,  or  its  latitudes  or  longi- 
tudes, there  is  no  doubt  that  it  covers  at  least  as  much  f/round  as  does  the  State 
of  California,  Oregon  covers  95,248  square  miles;  Nevada,  81,539  square 
miles;  Utah,  106,382  square  miles;  and  Arizona,  126,141  square  miles.  So 
it  is  seen  Lower  California  has  quite  a  large  area,  and  considerably  larger  than 


48  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

its  neiglibors,  as  even  Sonora  has  174,000  square  miles,  and  Sinaloa  54,700 
square  miles. 

THE    GREAT    STORES    OF   FISH,    SHELLS,   CETACEA,    PHOCIDEA,    AND    OTHER   MARINE 
ANIMALS    OF   THE    CALIFORNIA    PENINSULA. 

Having  in  the  preceding  notices  given  a  sketcli  of  the  sea-sliores  and  islands, 
and  of  the  succession  and  jjrecessiou  of  discoveries  and  navigations  of  Baja  Cali- 
fornia from  the  earliest  records  in  1532  to  the  present  (1867),  we  shall  now  touch 
summarily  on  the  extraordinary  and  wonderful  wealth  of  the  animal  life  of  its 
marine  waters.  From  all  the  accounts,  histories,  and  voyages  we  have  quoted, 
and  from  the  uniform  testimony  of  those  more  recently  who  have  personally  had 
knowledge  of  these  matters  since  the  discovery  of  gold  in  Upper  California,  it 
would  appear  to  excel  any  portion  of  the  world  in  the  wondrous  fertility  of  its 
fisheries.  As  early  as  1537  and  1539,  the  infinite  numbers  of  whales,  seals,  and 
fur  otters  of  numberless  varieties,  were  noted  by  UUoa,  who  first  completely  navi- 
gated the  shores  of  the  peninsula  from  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado  to  Cape  San 
Lucas,  and  thence  on  the  ocean  coast  up  to  Cedros  Island.  Then  all  kinds  of 
shell-fish  or  mollusca,  and  of  Crustacea,  such  as  lobsters,  crabs,  crawfish,  etc., 
number  by  the  thousands  of  species,  and  all  in  great  abundance  and  of  excellent 
edible  qualities,  as  Avelf  as  of  the  family  of  turtles.  The  proper  family  of  fishes 
of  all  the  known  genera  are  found  in  every  bay  and  harbor,  in  such  extraordi- 
nary quantities,  and  of  such  excellent  dietetic  qualities,  as  to  have  been  remarked 
by  every  navigator  or  writer  we  have  mentioned  or  read  of,  and  it  is  to  the  pres- 
ent time  a  matter  of  wonder  to  every  visitor  to  Lower  California.  Except  the 
mollusca,  cetacea,  and  phocidea,  this  great  field  of  Nature  has  been  but  little  ex- 
plored by  the  naturalist,  leaving  in  the  true  fishes  vast  numbers  to  be  yet  added 
to  the  stores  of  science  and  human  utility.  Many  of  the  fishes  and  shells  are  not 
only  very  curious  but  of  extraordinarj^  beauty,  and  highly  prized  by  connoisseurs. 

Mr.  Hugh  Cumniing,  the  celebrated  conchologist  of  London,  who  died  some 
three  years  ago,  made  a  voyage  about  1830  to  Lower  California  from  Valparaiso, 
for  the  special  purpose  of  studying  its  mollusca,  and  some  writers  have  afRrmed 
that  the  California  shells  are  the  great  feature  of  his  collection,  said  to  be  the 
largest  and  best  jDreserved  in  the  Avhole  world.  M.  Eegien,  a  French  resident  of 
Mazatlan,  some  years  after  Cumraing,  also  made  a  splendid  collection  of  shells 
of  the  gulf,  of  which  extended  scientific  notices  were  made  by  the  eminent  Eng- 
lish conchologist,  Philip  Carpenter,  in  his  contributions  to  the  Smithsonian  In- 
stitute in  1859-60.  In  1800-62,  Mr.  John  Xantus,  a  naturalist  of  great  ability 
and  enterprise,  who  had  served  in  many  of  the  recent  Government  overland  ex- 
plorations of  rail  and  wagon  roads,  was  employed  by  Professor  Bache,  the  direc- 
tor of  the  United  States  Coast  Survey,  to  make  observations  on  the  tidal  phenom- 
ena of  the  California  seas  below  the  parallel  of  Magdalcna  Bay.  In  connection 
with  his  investigations,  he  employed  nuich  time  in  natural  history  coUections  of 
the  southern  part  of  Lower  California  for  the  Smithsonian  Institute,  which  num- 
bered over  100,000  specimens  of  difterent  animals,  plants,  and  minerals,  of  which 
some  30,000  were  of  fishes,  shells,  Crustacea,  sponges,  star-fishes  and  corals ; 
about  one-half  of  these  specimens  were  entirely  new  to  science.  This  was  the 
largest  collection  ever  made  in  the  fauna  and  flora  of  those  or  any  other  parts 
of  the  peninsula  ex]>lored  by  him,  leaving  out,  as  entirely  unexamined  by  any 
one,  two-thirds  of  the  country  to  the  north  of  24:°,  and  was  duly  forwarded  to  the 
Smithsonian  Museum  at  Washington.  Of  the  fishes  he  collected  800  distinct 
species ;  of  Crustacea,  such  as  ci'abs,  etc.,  he  collected  800  species  ;  of  radiata  or 
star-fishes,  40  species  ;  of  shells,  4,000  species;  of  corals,  8  species,  and  of  sponges, 
14  species;  of  these  inhabitants  of  salt  water,  fully  two-thirds  are  said  yiever  to 
have  been  before  examined  or  noted  in  science.  It  is  therefore  evident  that  the 
fisheries  of  this  country  are  to  become  a  world  of  wondi'ous  wealth  to  its  future 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  49 

inhabitants,  of  incaloulablo  benefit  to  the  laborinir  classes  in  reducing  the  cost  of 
living,  and  rendering  them  independent  of  the  cruel  exactions  of  capital,  or  the 
tickle  whirls  of  commercial  prosperity  or  depressions.  There  can  be  no  doubt 
that  the  finest  varieties  of  our  edible  oysters  could  be  bred  and  cultivated  to 
supply  all  the  Pacific  domain  forever,  as  doubtless  could  be  done  with  the  pearl 
oysters,  as  is  the  case  in  some  parts  of  the  Oriental  world,  and  the  same  holds 
good  with  the  cultivation  of  sponges,  which  is  an  extremely  valuable  business  on 
the  shores  of  the  Grecian  Archipelago.  The  real  tortoise-shell  turtle  is  also  found 
on  both  coasts  of  the  peninsula,  and  the  different  species  of  the  edible  turtle  are 
particularly  abundant,  and,  in  many  places,  so  easy  of  access  as  to  be  had  for 
the  trouble  of  capture,  and  are  frequently  brought  to  San  Francisco. 

THE    REDUCTION    AND    SETTLEMENT    OF    THE    INTERIOR    OF     THE      GREAT    AMERICAN 

PENINSULA    FROM     1700     TO      1800 THE     DATES     AND     FOUNDATIONS    OF    THE 

JESUIT,    FRANCISCAN,    AND    DOMINICAN    MISSIONS. 

The  Catholic  missionary  histories  of  the  civilizations,  foundations,  and  reduc- 
tions of  the  difterent  Indian  districts  of  Lower  California  to  the  parallels  of 
Magdalena  Bay,  have  been  so  often  printed,  summarized,  and  related,  for  the  last 
150  years,  and  are  so  well  known,  that  the  natuue  of  our.  work  requires  no  more 
than  filling  up  the  vacuum  between  25°  and  32°,  which  is  unknown  in  English,  and 
putting  all  such  matters  in  condensed  briefs,  as  their  detailed  narration  would 
fill  an  immense  and  cumbersome  volume  foreign  to  the  intent  of  this  work.  The 
principal  Spanish  authorities  are  those  by  the  Jesuit  Fathers  Venegas  in  1757, 
Clavigero  in  17S9,  and  Begert  in  1772,  who  were  neither  of  them,  however, 
California  Jesuits,  and  the  book  of  the  Dominican  friars,  published  at  Valencia, 
in  Spain,  in  1794;  these  last  two  authors  served  in  the  California  missions,  and 
no  other  original  works,  from  personal  observation  of  the  country,  have  been 
compiled  since  the  1794  volume,  which  relates  the  founding  of  the  seven  Do- 
minican mission  districts  on  the  Pacific,  below  San  Diego, "and  to  a  short  dis- 
tance north  of  the  bay  of  Viscaino.  Though  these  four  publications  are  very 
valuable  as  original  chronicles  or  annals,  they  are  crowded  with  errors  of  fact 
and  errors  of  typography,  and  mostly  devoted  to  missionary  labors ;  these  errors 
are  extremely  confusing  and  contradictory  to  the  reader  and  honest  inquirer, 
and  all  who  have  heretofore  used  or  quoted  them  in  English,  French,  German, 
and  Spanish  have,  luithout  sifting  or  critical  inquiry,  passed  their  serious  faults 
on  to  the  present  generation,  and  making  confusion  worse  confounded,  as  may 
be  seen  in  Forbes,  Farnham,  and  others.  The  efforts  of  the  eminent  Jesuits 
Kino,  Salvaticrra,  Piccolo,  and  Ugarte,  for  the  ten  years  before  l700,  were 
merely  preliminary,  the  legal  license  and  commission  for  Christianizing  the 
country,  given  by  the  Conde  de  Montezuma,  Viceroy  of  Mexico,  to  Kino  and 
Salvaticrra,  being  dated  only  on  the  0th  of  February,'  1G97,  after  the  struggles- 
of  several  years.  So  that  the  most  proper  and  best  period  to  commence  the  his- 
tory of  the  interior  districts  of  Old  California  is  the  year  1700.  We  now  give  as 
complete  a  schedule  of  the  Missions  of  Lower  California  as  can  be  obtained  from> 
the  best  accounts : 

1.  The  mission  of  Xucstra  Senora  de  Loreto  was  founded  by  Father  Jose 
Marie  Salvaticrra,  in  October,  1097,  in  latitude  25°  30'. 

2.  Mission  of  Dolores  del  Sur,  or  named  at  first  San  Juan  Bautista  de  Mali- 
bat,  founded  by  Father  Salvaticrra,  in  January,  1099,  in  latitude  24°  30'. 

3.  Mission  of  San  Francisco  Xavier  de  Vigge,  founded  by  Father  FraDcisco 
M.  Piccoli,  in  March,  1099,  in  latitude  25°  30\ 

4.  The  Mission  of  Santa  Rosalia  de  Molejc,  founded  by  Father  Juan  M.  Ba- 
sualda,  in  1705,  in  latitude  20°  50', 

The  mission  of  San  Luis  Gonzaga,  founded  by  Father  Juan  Ugarte,  in  1712, 
in  latitude  25°.     This  mission  was  made  not  far  from  the  bay  of  Magdalena,  ou. 
4 


50  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

the  borders  of  which  was  one  of  its  Indian  villages  with  a  chapel.  It  seems  to 
have  been  abandoned  shortly  after  1745,  and  was  not  in  the  status  of  a  mission 
in  1767. 

5.  San  Jose  Commondii,  founded  by  Father  Julian  de  Mavorga,  in  1708,  in 
latitude  26°. 

6.  La  Purisima  Concepcion,  founded  by  Father  Nicolas  Tamaral,  in  1718, 
in  latitude  26°. 

7.  Mission  Nuestra  Senora  de  Gnadalupo,  founded  by  Fathers  Juan  Ugarte 
and  Everhard  Helen,  in  1721,  in  latitude  27°. 

8.  Mission  of  San  Ignacio  de  Kadakaman,  founded  by  Father  Juan  B.  Lu- 
yando,  in  1728,  in  latitude  28°. 

9.  Mission  of  N.  S.  de  Dolores  del  Norte,  in  lat.  29°,  made  as  au  adjunct  to 
San  Ignacio,  but  a  few  years  afterward  seems  to  have  been  absorbed  into  this 
last  and  abandoned,  as  were  two  or  three  pioneer  foundations  of  the  same  kind, 
before  1740,  as  those  of  Santiago,  La  Paz,  Santa  Rosa,  and  Magdalena. 

10.  Mission  of  San  Jose  del  Cabo,  founded  by  Father  Nicolas  Tamaral,  in 
■1730,  in  latitude  23°. 

11.  Mission  of  Todos  Santos,  founded  as  an  adjunct  to  San  Jose,  about  the 
year  1737,  and  formerly  called  Santa  Rosa,  in  latitude  23°. 

12.  Mission  of  Santa  Gertrudis,  founded  bv  Father  Fernando  Consag,  in 
1751,  in  latitude  29°. 

13.  Mission  of  San  Francisco  Borja  (pronounced  Boreas),  founded  by  Padre 
Winceslao  Link  in  1762,  in  latitude  30°  [?]. 

14.  Mission  of  Santa  Maria,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  bay  of  Los  Angeles  of  the 
Gulf,  founded  by  Father  Victoriano  Arnes  in  1767,  in  latitude  31°. 

These  14  missions  were  all  founded  by  the  Jesuits,  as  given  for  1745  in 
Venegas's  book  of  1757,  and  in  Clavijcro's  work  of  1790,  made  up  from  the 
latest  advices,  prior  to  the  expulsion  of  the  order  from  the  peninsula,  on  the 
25th  June,  1767,  but  those  of  Dolores  and  Guadalupe  were  abandoned  before 
1794.  Fifteen  Jesuit  priests  and  one  lay-brother  died  in  California  before  1767, 
and  15  priests  and  one  lay-brother  formed  the  numbers  which  left  in  1767. 
The  Jesuits  were  succeeded  in  their  missions  by  16  Franciscan  fi'iars  from  the 
College  of  San  Fernando  of  Mexico  City,  under  Father  Junipero  Serra,  who 
arrived  at  Loretto  on  the  1st  of  April,  1768,  and  these  establishments  continued 
under  their  care  until  May,  1774,  five  years  after  Father  Junipero  loft,  in  1769, 
for  Alta  California,  when  the  peninsular  missions  were  delivered  up  to  the  Do- 
minican friars,  from  the  College  of  Santiago  of  Mexico  City,  by  Father  Francisco 
Palou,  Avho  afterward  founded  the  mission  of  Dolores,  near  San  Francisco 
City,  and  wrote  the  well-known  biography  of  Junipero  Serra,  in  1786. 

15.  The  next  mission  founded  was  that  of  San  Fernando  Villacatta,  by 
Father  Junipci-o  Serra  in  1769,  in  latitude  31°,  and  60  leagues  north  from  San 
Fernando  Borga. 

The  Dominicans  founded  the  next  seven  missions  to  the  Alta  California 
frontier,  to  wit : 

16.  The  mission  of  La  Rosario,  near  the  bay  of  Los  Yirgenes  on  the  Pacific, 
was  founde<l  in  1774,  in  latitude  30°  25',  about  50  miles  northwest  from  San 
Fernando  Villacatta. 

17.  The  mission  of  Santo  Domingo,  near  San  Quintin  Bay,  and  20  leagues 
north  from  Rosario,  was  founded  in  1775,  in  latitude  30°  52'. 

18.  The  mission  of  San  Vicente  Ferrer,  20  leagues  north  from  San  Domin- 
go, was  founded  in  1780,  in  latitude  31°  30'.' 

19.  The  mission  of  Santo  Tomas,  near  the  bay  of  Todos  Santos,  the  next 
above  San  Vicente,  was  founded  in  1790,  in  latitude  31°  52'  (the  Indians  be- 
ing very  troublesome  to  manage),  about  40  miles  above  San  Vicente. 

20.  The  mission  of  San  Pedro  Martyr,  about  40  miles  east  of  Santo  Tomas, 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  51 

in  the  mountains,  was  founded  on  tlic  28tli   May,  1794,  by  Father  Cayetano 
Pallos,  in  latitude  31^  50'. 

21.  The  mission  of  San  Miguel  of  the  frontiers,  some  30  miles  south  of  San 
Pieoo.  was  tounded  in  1782  (as  appears  from  the  Alta  California  archives),  by 
Fathers  Tomas  Valdellon  and  Miguel  Lopez,  and  is  in  about  latitude  32°  10'. 

22.  The  mission  of  Santa  Catalina  de  los  Yumas,  about  50  miles  east  from 
Santo  Tomas  in  the  mountains,  was  founded .  by  Father  Jose  Lorient  on  the 
18th  May,  1797,  in  about  latitude  31°  20'.  Santa  Catalina  was  the  last  mis- 
sion founded  in  Lower  California. 

At  the  time  of  the  date  of  the  Dominican  friar's  book,  in  179-4  (who  was 
then  serving  at  Santo  Tomas  and  San  Miguel,  as  expressed  therein),  the  mis- 
sions of  Santiago,  Dolores,  and  San  Luis  Gonzaga,  noted  by  Clavijero,  as  exist- 
ing in  1767,  were  closed  as  mission  centres  or  capitals,  by  order  of  the  Govern- 
ment in  Mexico,  from  the  ravages  of  the  small-pox  and  other  diseases,  and  from 
tlieir  unmanageable  Indians  ;  this  change  has  been  the  cause  of  many  blunders 
by  Lower  California  writers  in  the  public  journals  since  1846. 

The  mission  establishments  of  the  peninsula  were  all  secularized,  as  was  the  case 
with  those  of  Alta  California,  by  the  celebrated  decree  of  the  Mexican  Congress 
of  1833.  From  frequent  revolutions  in  the  peninsula  and  the  central  Government, 
from  the  poverty  and  scarce  populations,  and  its  being  before  1848  out  of  the 
route  of  general  commerce,  and  from  the  entire  extinction  of  the  Jesuit  mission 
Indians  before  1825,  the  priests  either  died  or  gradually  retired  from  the  coun- 
try, and  were  seldom  replaced ;  so  that  at  the  American  occupation  in  1847-43 
not  more  than  three  were  left  in  the  country,  one  of  wliom,  Father^Tg'nacio 
Ramirez  Arrellanes,  was  superior  of  the  missions,  and  in  October,  1848,  was  a 
refugee,  and  left  with  the  Americans  for  Monterey,  where  he  served  as  curate 
of  that  town  till  1854,  when  he  left  for  Mexico ;  he  was  also  one  of  the  chap- 
lains of  the  Monterey  Constitutional  Convention  of  1849,  the  other  being  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Willey,  a  Protestant  clergyman,  now  of  Oakland. 

The  missions  of  the  Californias  to  carry  out  the  idea  of  Kino,  were  attempt- 
ed to  be  connected  and  aided  from  Mexico,  by  the  establishment,  between 
1767  and  1781,  of  the  two  Franciscan  missions,  called  Concepcion  and  San 
Pedro-Pablo,  nine  miles  apart,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Colorado,  near  the 
present  Foi't  Yuma,  detailed  more  at  large  in  an  ensuing  chapter,  but  these 
were  destroyed  by  the  Yumas  in  1782.  The  Jesuits  also  established  a  mission 
outpost,  about  1700,  called  San  Dionisio,  on  the  northern  bank  of  the  Gila, 
not  far  from  its  junction,  and  also  another  on  the  southern  bank  of  the  Gila, 
several  leagues  farther  east,  called  San  Pablo.  The  recent  writers  on  the  sites 
of  these  missions  greatly  confuse  one  with  another,  and  mix  the  ancient  accounts 
up  terribly. 

In  1794  there  were  17  missions  in  existence,  under  the  Dominicans,  that 
of  Santa  Catalina,  in  1797,  being  the  last  one  founded,  and  after  the  most 
recent  accounts  had  appeared.  When  the  author  of  the  1794  book  left  the 
peninsula,  in  1787,  there  were  serving  in  these  17  missions  24  Dominican 
priests,  and  of  Indian  converts  1,099  families,  including  3,015  people  of  all 
sexes  and  ages,  and  only  six  soldiers ;  this  does  not  embaace  the  white  and 
mixed  races  of  the  towns  of  La  Paz,  Loreto,  and  San  Jose  del  Cabo. 
In  the  14  missions  left  by  the  Jesuits,  there  were,  then,  in  1767,  the  number 
of  7,495  Indians  of  all  ages  and  sexes.  In  1840-42,  when  Duflot  de  Mofras 
was  travelling  in  California,  he  states  that  there  were  3,760  iidiabitanis  in  all 
the  mission  capitals,  and  including  Loreto,  La  Paz,  and  San  Jose  del  Cabo 
towns :  two-thirds  of  these,  however,  were  Mexicans  and  Lower  Californians, 
of  white  and  mixed  bloo'd.  In  the  seven  Dominican  missions,  between  San 
Diego  and  Rosario,  at  that  time,  there  were  about  1,300  people,  and  some 
Lower  Californian  informants  say  one-half  or  even  two-thirds  of  these  were 
Indians,  the  rest  being  mestizoes,  not  mission  converts.      Before  1825,  as  we 


52  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

have  been  informed,  every  one  of  the  Jesuit  converts  had  entirely  disappeared 
from  their  old  missions  by  death,  in  the  course  of  nature,  or  by  the  castings  of 
disease  from  syphilis,  small-pox,  measles,  etc, :  that  is,  7,495  aborigines  had 
entirely  disappeared  from  off  the  earth  in  58  years.  Venegas  does  not  state 
what  was  the  number  of  convents  in  1745,  the  last  accounts  and  dates  in  his 
history  of  lYSV.  At  the  date  of  1867,  accepting  the  statements  of  cor- 
respondents from  the  peninsula  in  tTie  San  Francisco  newspapers,  there  do 
not  remain  500  Indians  in  the  Dominican  or  northern  ex-missions  above  Vis- 
caino  Bay,  and  none  at  all  between  the  Viscaino  Bay  parallels  and  Cape  San 
Lucas — the  other  Indian  tribes,  unconverted,  loosely  estimated  at  present  at 
about  2,000  souls,  being  those  found  below  the  American  frontier  line  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Gila,  embraced  in  the  country  in  the  lower  valley,  to  the  west  of 
the  Colorado,  and  so  following  down  on  the  gulf  shores  until  even  to  the  Canal 
de  Ballenas,  and  port  of  Los  Angeles.  The  most  of  these  are  the  well-known 
Cocopas,  and  their  affiliating  tribes,  and  mixed  with  Yumas.  Dialects  of  the 
Yuma  extended  from  Santa  Catalina,  all  the  way  from  San  Miguel  to  La  Ro- 
sario,  and  dialects  of  this  language  extended  up  the  coast  as  far  as  San  Luis 
Rey,  north  of  San  Diego. 

TRAVELLING '  DISTANCES,    BY    THE    OLD     SPANISH    MISSION     ROAD,    FROM    CAPE    SAN 

LUCAS    TO    SAN   DIEGO. 

The  distance,  as  travelled  on  mules,  from  the  Cape  to  San  Diego,  may  be 
estimated  from  the  map,  day  by  day,  in  English  miles,  as  follows,  from  mis- 
sion to  mission,  which  takes  up  the  whole  length  of  the  peninsula.  These 
figures  are  only  approximates  : 

1.  From  San  Jose  del  Cabo  to  Todos  Santos  mission  to  the  northwest  on 
the  Pacific,  70  miles ;  from  San  Jose  to  Real  de  San  Antonio,  near  the  gulf,  40 
miles  ;  from  San  Antonio  Real  (or  mining  village),  to  the  town  of  La-Paz,  on  the 
bay  of  La  Paz,  20  miles. 

2.  From  La  Paz  to  Dolores  del  Sur,  90  miles. 

3.  From  Dolores  del  Sur  to  San  Luis  Gonzaga,  45  miles. 

4.  From  Dolores  to  Loreto,  90  miles,  by  the  long  gulf  road. 

5.  From  Loreto  to  San  Jose  Comondu,  going  west,  40  miles. 

6.  From  San  Jose  Comondu  to  San  Francisco  Xavier,  going  to  the  south, 
30  miles. 

7.  From  San  Jose  Comondu  to  Purisiraa,  40  miles. 

8.  From  Loretto  to    Moleje,  by  the  turns  of  the  gulf  coast  road,  90  miles. 

9.  From  Purisima  to  San  Ignacio  Kada  Kaman  (or  country  of  sedge 
brooks),  110  miles,  and  which  is  about  20  miles  from  the  Pacific ;  San  Ignacio 
is  about  110  miles,  by  the  road  northwest  of  Moleje. 

10.  From  San  Ignacio  to  mission  Santa  Gertrudis,  going  northeast,  it  is  40 
miles. 

11.  From  Santa  Gertrudis  to  San  Francisco  Boija  mission,  going  north,  it 
is  70  miles. 

12.  From  San  Francisco  Borja  (or  Boreas),  to  Santa  Maria  mission,  going 
north,  it  is  7$  miles ;  here  the  mountains  are  very  high  and  rugged. 

13.  From  Santa  Maria  to  San  Fernando  Villicatti  mission,  in  the  mountains, 
it  is  56  miles. 

14.  From  San  Fernando,  in  the  mountains,  going  north  by  west,  to  the  mis- 
sion of  Rosario,  near  the  ocean,  is  50  miles. 

15.  From  Rosario  along  the  sea-coast  to  Santo  Domingo  mission,  it  is  60 
miles. 

16.  From  Santo  Domingo  to  San  Vicente  mission,  by  the  coast,  it  is  50 
miles.  Both  these  missions  are  in  the  vicinities  of  Virgin  and  San  Quintin 
Bays. 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER   CALIFORNIA.  53 

17.  From  S.in  Yiccnte  to  San  Pedro  Martyr,  going  northeast  into  the 
mountains,  it  is  about  40  miles. 

18.  From  San  Vicente,  along  the  coast  of  Santo  Tomas,  it  is  30  miles; 
Santo  Tomas  is  near  Todos  Santos  Bay. 

19.  From  Santo  Tomas,  to  the  last  mission,  San  Miguel,  along  the  coast,  it  is 
about  50  miles,  which  brings  the  traveller  to  within  about  40  miles  of  San 
Diego  Bay. 

20.  From  Santo  Tomas  to  Santa  Catalina,  going  to  the  east  via  San  Pedro 
Martyr,  it  is  about  70  miles ;  Santa  Catalina  being  only  some  60  miles  from 
the  Colorado  River,  at  the  head  of  the  gulf. 

From  Rosario  to  San  Diego,  since  1840,  private  ranches  for  cattle  and 
sheep  have  been  established  at  distances  varying  from  5  to  20  miles  apart. 
This  part  of  the  coast  has  become  much  better  known  than  formerly  from  the 
letters  of  Mr.  R.  K.  Porter  (who  resided  there  several  years,  between  1858  and 
1863),  which  were  published  in  the  San  Francisco  Bulletin.  The  distances  we 
use  are  only  approximate,  and  calculated  from  travellers'  reports,  and  from  the 
maps  of  1845  to  1864;  if  not  exact,  they  will  answer  very  well  to  travel  from 
mission  to  mission,  and  not  greatly  lead  the  voyager  astray. 

CHAPTER    X. 

■THE    PAST    AND    PRESENT    POPl-LATION    OF    OLD    CALIFORNIA. 

La  Perouse,  when  at  Monterey,  in  1786,  was  informed  by  the  Governor 
of  the  two  Californias  that  there  were  then,  in  the  15  mission  districts  of  the 
peninsula,  4,000  Indians,  and  54  Presidio  soldiers.  In  Humboldt's  "  New  Spain  " 
he  states  that,  in  1802,  there  were  not  more  5,000  Indians  and  others,  and 
that  the  barbarous  tnbes  to  the  north  numbered  about  4,000  more,  or  9,000 
in  all.  From  the  l)est  public  authorities,  Alexander  Forbes  says  there  were  in 
1837  not  over  15,000  inhabitants  of  all  kinds.  Loretto  contained  300  souls, 
while  La  Paz  with  the  Real  de  San  Antonio  contained  2,000  souls.  In  1848 
the  village  of  San  Jose  del  Cabo  contained  some  200  people.  In  1842  the 
Mexican  Congress  admitted  two  delegates  from  the  two  Californias  on  a  basis 
of  33,439  population,  12,000  of  which  were  acknowledged  as  belonging  to  the 
peninsula.  At  the  time  of  the  American  occupation  of  1847-48,  it  was  also 
admitted  as  numbering  about  12,000  souls.^  The  seven  Dominican  missions  of 
the  north  sea  coast  are  said  to  have  contained  5,000  Indians  in  those  estab- 
lishments in  the  year  1800. 

When  the  American  occupation  ended,  their  vessels  took  away  some  500 
political  refugees,  who  amved  in  the  different  vessels-of-war  at  Monterey,  in 
October,  1848,  from  the  peninsular  ports  below  Loreto.  After  these  left,  and 
in  the  fall  of  1848,  commenced  a  voluntary  emigration  from  the  peninsula  to 
dig  gold  in  the  new  placeres  of  Alta  California,  which  was  estimated  to  take 
off  some  1,200  of  the  best  classes  of  the  population,  about  one-half  of  whom 
found  their  way  back  before  1855.  It  is  estimated,  in  1867,  that  there  arc 
about  26,000  people  in  the  country  from  San  Diego  to  San  Lucas,  about  1,000 
of  whom  are  foreigners,  as  miners,  whalemen,  traders,  etc.,  including  French, 
English,  German,  and  American,  two-thirds  of  whom  are  Americans ;  the  most 
of  them  arrived  since  1855.  No  accurate  account  of  the  population  has  ever 
been  published  or  even  ascertained  since  its  foundation  ;  the  old  Spanish  notices 
up  to  1802  being  merely  confined  to  the  mission  colonics,  or  settlements. 

THE    INDIAN    TRIBES    AND    LANGUAGES    OF    THE    PENINSULA 

All  the  Indian  tribes  of  the  peninsula  seem  to  be  affiliated  with  the  Yumas 
of  the  Colorado,  and  with  the  Coras  below  La  Paz.     If  their  languages  are 


54:  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

truly  distinct,  then  it  would  appear,  from  the  testimony  of  different  missionary 
writers  indicated  in  this  summary,  that  they  have  mixed  and  remixed  one  "with 
the  other ;  the  Cochiemies,  above  Loreto,  throughout  the  north,  speak  more  or 
less  different  dialects  of  the  Yuma — the  farther  north,  the  more  perfect  the 
Yuma.  The  Jesuit  writers  declare  that  different  tribes  2)ronou7ice  so  differently 
the  same  idiom,  as  to  appear  to  a  stranger  as  distinct  languages.  All  the  Indians 
of  the  missions  above  Santa  Gertrudis  are  undoubtedly  Yuma  in  their  family 
relations.  The  entire  numbers  of  them  could  never  have  exceeded  25,000  be- 
fore civilization  was  commenced,  say  in  1700,  from  the  cape  to  the  Colorado,  as 
s  shown  from  the  small  numbers  gathered  into  the  different  missions  from  time 
to  time,  and  in  no  case  do  they  differ  in  intellect,  habits,  customs,  dress,  imple- 
ments of  war,  or  hunting,  traditions,  or  appearances  from  the  well-known  Dig- 
ger Indians  of  Alta  California,  and  undoubtedly  belong  to  the  same  race  or 
family.  Going  from  the  north,  we  may  locate  them  as  follows:  on  the  Colora- 
do bottoms  were  the  Cocopahs,  the  southern  gulf  tribes  of  which  Consag  (174G) 
calls  Bagiopas,  Hebonumas,  Quigyumas,  Cuculutes,  and  the  Alchedumas.  Those 
of  Santa  Cataliua,  San  Pedro  Martyr,  and  San  Miguel,  and  Santo  Tomas,  such 
as  the  Gueymuras,  and  Gimiels,  were  nearly  pure  Yumas,  as  were  those  of  our 
San  Diego.  From  Santo  Tomas  to  San  Vicente,  they  were  tenued  leas;  from 
this  last,  including  San  Domingo,  Rosario,  and  San  Fernando,  the  TJchitas 
roamed,  mixed  with  their  affilees,  known  to  the  missionaries  as  the  Vintacottas 
and  Vilicatas.  Between  San  Fernando  jyid^Moleje  were  the  Limonies,  divided 
(going  from  the  north),  into  the  Cagnaguets,  Adacs,  and  Kadakamaus.  From 
Moleje  to  Loreto  were  the  purer  Coejiicmies,  or  Guaicuris,  or  Yicuras,  whom 
the  Jesuits  assert  were  of  the  same  language  as  the  Limonies.  From  Loretto 
to  the  parcUels  of  Magdalena  Bay  were  the  MonqiiieSand  Edues,  and  from  these 
last  to  the  cape,  Pericues  and  Corasr^  The  first  who  reduced  the  language  to 
writing,  in  catechism,  etc.,  was  Father  Copart,  who  was  with  Kino,  in  1097,  at 
the  time  of  Admiral  Otondo's  expedition.  The  most  copious  w^riter  was  Father 
Begert  (of  1707),  on  the  Cochiemies  or  ^Yaicura,  which  was  only  a  meagre 
grammatical  aualysis  and  religious  explanations  of  the  language,  contained  in 
three  or  four  pages,  as  detailed  in  the  Smithsonian  Report  of  1804,  by  Mr. 
Charles  Rau,  of  New  York.  No  systematic  grammar  or  dictionary  of  the 
peninsular  languages  is  known  in  philological  history,  Francisco  Pimentel, 
the  fiimous  Indian  philologist  of  Mexico,  compared,  in  1802,  a  Cora  vocabulary 
of  the  vicinities  of  Cape  San  Lucas,  with  one  of  the  Cora  tribes  of  the  Nayarites 
clans  of  Sinaloa  and  JaHsco,  but  they  show  no  analogy  or  likeness  whatsoever 
to  each  other,  nor  to  any  Mexican  dialect  or  language, 

THE    POLITICAL    CHANGES    AND    STATUS — THE  COUNTRY  DIVIDED  INTO  MUNICIPALI- 
TIES   AFTER    1859, 

After  1707  the  viceroy  placed  the  administration  of  the  government  under 
the  conumdante  of  the  Presidio  troops,  the  capital  being  at  Loreto,  and  that 
officer  acquiring  the  name  of  governor.  In  1775  the  governor,  who  was  then 
Philip  de  Neve,  was  ordered  to  remove  his  residence  to  Monterey,  which  became 
the  capital  of  the  two  Californias, 

Up  to  the  year  1821  Lower  California  remained  under  the  Viceregal  Govern- 
ment of  Mexico,  but  on  the  assumption  of  the  Independent  Government  under 
Iturbidc,  with  Alta  California,  it  acknowledged  the  supremacy  of  the  patriots. 
After  1830  it  was  constituted  into  a  separate  territory,  and  allowed  one  delegate 
to  the  National  Congress  of  Mexico,  the  territory  of  Alta  California  being  al- 
lowed the  same.  The  military  and  civil  officers  for  several  years  after  1830 
seemed  to  be  under  the  orders  of  the  Monterey  chiefs,  but  they  gradually  di- 
verged into  independent  action  from  the  immense  distances  intervening  and 
the  constant  revolutions  occurring.    Indeed,  after  1825  Lower  California  was 


EXPLOllATIOX    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  55 

troubled  very  little  by  the  Mexican  Ojickdklad  from  its  poverty  and  the  docility 
of  the  people.  The  succession  of  political  chiefs  is  not  set  forth  in  any  publica- 
tion. This  state  of  thino-s  prevailed  down  to  the  declaration  of  war  between 
Mexico  and  the  United  States  in  18-46.  In  1847  the  naval  forces  of  the  United 
States,  under  Commodores  Shuln-iok  and  Jones,  captured  the  ports  of  Guaymas, 
Mazatlan,  and  of  La  Paz  and  San  Jose  del  ('abo  of  the  peninsula,  the  flag- beinf 
raised  in  Lower  California  by  Lieutenant-Colonel  Henry  S.  Burton,  of  the  army, 
and  Captain  T.  Dailey,  of  the  navy,  on  the  28th  July,  1847,  Several  compa- 
nies of  Stevenson's  regiment  of  Xew  York  Volunteers  were  stationed  in  difler- 
ent  parts  of  the  country,  and  generally  the  people  readily  submitted  to  the  new 
powers,  and  so  continued  until  the  American  evacuation  in  the  early  part  of  the 
fall  of  1848,  when  all  warlike  material  was  removed  to  Monterey,  the  American 
fleet  bringing  several  hundred  refugees  Avho  had  compromised  tliemselves  with 
the  conquerors,  among  whom  were  Governor  Palacios  and  Padre  Ramirez. 

After  1849  a  number  of  the  American  volunteers  returned  to  Lower  Cali- 
fornia, and  since  1860  several  hundreds  of  our  countrymen  have  emiioTated 
there.  Since  1850  the  country  has  been  in  a  continual  turmoil  of  petty  revolu- 
llohs,  and  governor  succeeded  governor,  or  revolutionary  chief,  every  twelve 
months,  of  wliom  it  is  almost  impossible  to  make  even  a  list.  Under  the  Go- 
monfort  Government  of  1857,  General  Jose  Castro,  of  Monterey,  was  made  mili- 
tary commandant  of  the  northern  frontiers,  which  governed  the  noi-theru  dis- 
tricts above  the  bay  of  Yiscaino.  The  revolution  imposed  in  Mexico  between 
the  Republican  Government  of  Juarez  and  the  Imperial  assumption  of  govern- 
ment by  Maximilian  and  the  French  did  not  extend  to  the  peninsula,  nor  did 
the  invading  forces  attempt  any  changes  by  armed  operations  there  between 
1862  and  1867.  A  full  official  account  of  the  American  occupation  of  1847— '48 
may  be  found  in  the  documents  accompanying  the  messages  of  Presidents  Polk 
and  Taylor,  published  between  1848  to  1850.  Since  1855  an  American  consul 
has  generally  resided  at  La  Paz,  but  none,  w-e  believe,  of  any  other  nation. 

Since  the  year  J.  863  a  regular  monthly  line  of  steamers  plies  between  San 
Francisco  and  the  Mexican  coast  ports  as  far  as  San  Bias,  touching  at  La  Paz 
and  San  Jose  del  Cabo,  and  bringing  Low'er  California  into  steam  connection 
from  British  Columbia  to  Acapulco  and  Panama,  and  soon  to  Chili,  which  is 
having  an  important  influence  on  the  political,  social,  and  commercial  aftairs  of 
the  country.  In  February,  1867,  a  steamship  company  was  organized  in  San 
Francisco  to  connect  all  the  settled  gulf  ports  of  Lower  California,  which  will 
greatly  stimulate  commerce,  raining,  and  emigration.  The  several  incorporated 
railroad  companies  to  run  through  the  southern  counties  of  the  State  of  Cali- 
foraia  to  the  Colorado  valley  will  also  have,  within  the  next  10  years,  important 
effects  on  the  destinies  of  the  country.  The  same  may  be  said  of  those  pro- 
posed from  the  valley  of  the  Rio  Grande  to  the  port  of  Guaymas,  which  will 
doubtless  be  accomplished  before  20  years  have  elapsed. 

The  changes  growing  out  of  the  new  constitution  of  Comonfort's  revolu- 
tion, 1856-'58,  and  continued  by  that  of  Juarez  up  to  1861,  caused  the  various 
portions  of  Old  California  to  be  politically  and  judicially  divided  into  seven 
municipalities  or  jurisdictions.  Going  from  San  Diego  to  the  south,  these  are 
named  as  follows,  and  each  having  an  alcalde,  or  juez  del  distrito,  as  judicial 
heads : 

1.  Municipalidad  of  Santo  Tomas,  from  the  frontier  to  a  short  distance  of 
the  mission  of  San  Vicente,  and  including  the  land  from  ocean  to  gulf;  capi- 
tal. Mission  Santo  Tomas. 

2.  Municipalidad  of  San  Antonio,  from  a  little  below  San  Vicente  over  to 
the  gulf  above  San  Felipe  Jesus  Bay ;  its  southern  parallel  crossing  Cedros 
Island ;  capital,  La  Rosario  Mission. 

3.  Muniripalidad  of  Moleje,  from  the  parallel  of  Cedros  Island  to  near  the 
mission  of  Purisima ;  capitals,  San  Ignacio  and  Moleje  Missions. 


56  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

4.  Municipalidad  of  Comondu,  from  Purisima  parallel  to  the  northern  paral- 
lels of  the  bay  of  Magdalena ;  capital,  Mission  San  Jose  Comondu. 

Each  of  these  four  jurisdictions  is  at  such  an  inconvenient  distance  from 
another's  centres  as  to  .he  from  100  to  150  miles  apart  by  the  line  of  the 
road. 

5.  Municipalidad  of  Todos  Santos,  capital  at  Todos  Santos  Mission  ;  and 

6.  Municipalidad  of  La  Paz,  capital,  town  of  La  Paz,  are  divided  lonijitudi- 
nally  from  each  other,  but  are  bounded  north  and  south  by  similar  parallels. 

7.  The  last  municipalidad  is  that  of  San  Jose,  which  covers  the  remaining 
territory  to  Cape  San  Lucas,  with  its  capital  at  the  pueblo  of  San  Jose  del  Cabo. 
These  divisions  were  first  inserted  on  De  Fleury's  map  of  1864, 

When  the  Dominicans  assumed  the  entire  control  of  the  missions  from  the 
Franciscans,  in  1774,  all  the  country  below  the  bay  of  San  Diego  to  Cape  San 
Lucas  began  to  be  termed  politically  and  religiously,  in  official  documents,  as 
California  Antigua,  or  Vicja,  and  all  above  San  Diego  Bay  as  California  Nueva. 
About  that  time  also,  or  about  1770,  the  viceroy  made  the  military  coman- 
dante  of  the  peninsula  a  lieutenant-colonel,  acting  as  political  chief,  with  head- 
quarters or  capital  at  Loreto  ;  but  in  1775  the  capital  of  the  two  Californias 
was  removed  to  Monterey,  to  whom  the  officer  at  Loreto  reported  until  the 
year  1822,  on  the  final  separation  of  Mexico  from  Spain.  This  system  was  not 
entirely  altered  till  several  years  afterward,  or  about  the  last  of  Figueroa's  term, 
or  say  1835.     ^ 

After  1835  the  peninsular  chiefs  began  to  report  to  the  head-government  of 
Mexico,  and  dropped  official  reporting  to  the  ^lonterey  governor.  But  such 
was  the  mixed-up  state  of  things  in  the  far-off  Californias  before  1846,  that  the 
greatest  confusion  exists  in  their  political  aftairs  and  archives.  Since  the  Ameri- 
can evacuation  of  1848,  the  country  has  been  placed  under  a  general  of  the 
Mexican  army,  as  political  and  military  chief,  with  his  capital  generally  at  La 
Paz ;  sometimes  at  San  Antonio  Real,  or  other  places. 

THE    TRUE    AND    THE    APPROXIMATE    LATITUDES    AND  LONGITUDES  OF  LOWER  CALI- 
FORNIA   POSITIONS,  COMMENCING    AT    THE    MOUTH    OF    THE    COLORADO  RIVER. 

The  most  reliable  instrumental  and  astronomical  positions  in  the  peninsula 
have  been  taken  by  American  officers  in  Ives's  Colorado  expedition  of  1858, 
and  contained  in  his  celebrated  survey,  and  is  probably  the  most  valuable  and 
best  prepared  memorial  yet  given  oii  any  district  of  the  continent  of  Xorth 
America.  The  other  positions  narrated  below  are  from  Findley  and  other  Eng- 
lish and  French  works  noted  in  our  Summary,  and  one  locality  from  WcUer's 
Boundary  Monument  of  1850,  but  only  a  few  appear  to  have  been  taken  from 
observatories  and  instruments  established  or  set  up  on  the  solid  land.  For  in- 
stance, the  positions  of  Vancouver,  Belcher,  and  Kcllett  are  often  stated,  or  to 
be  inferred,  as  taken  from  aboard  ship  at  anchor,  which,  of  course,  renders  ob- 
servations liable  to  greater  error.  The  latitudes  and  longitudes  of  the  Jesuit 
and  other  Spanish  observers  are  only  approximate,  and,  even  when  given  mathe- 
matically, were  by  the  old-fashioned  instruments  ante  1820,  and  are  consequently 
of  little  practical  use.  Commencing  at  the  Colorado,  we  shall  enumerate  going 
south  on  the  coasts  of  Lower  California  : 

N.  Latitude.  .  Lonptude 

1.  Robinson's  Landing,  ten  miles  froiu  the  mouth  of  the  W-  of  Greenwich. 

river,  is  in 31°  49' 21"    8         114°  51' 16"    0 

2.  The  initial  point  of  the  boundary  between  Upper  and 

Lower  California  at  the  monument  near  the  sea- 
shore, erected  by  Wellcr's  Commission  of  Bound- 
ary Survey  in  1850,  one  marine  league  south  of  the 
southernmost  point  of  San  Diego  Bay  and  opposite 
the  Coronados  Island,  is  in ." 32°  31'  58"  46         117°  06'  11"  12 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  57 

N.  Latitude.  LonRitude. 

(as  stated  in  Davidson's  "  Const  Directory  of  the  W.  of  Greenwich. 
United  States  Pacific  Coast  of   1858,"  as  deter- 
mined hv  coast  survey  shore  observations.) 

3.  Ansjel  Guardian  Ishind,  south  point 29°  06'  112°  52' 

4.  Cape  SanCtabriel 28"  36'  112°  31' 

5.  MoK'je  Vilhige,  in  the  bay  of  same  name 26°  52'  112°  29' 

6.  Point  Concepciun,  farther  south 26°  57'  112°  04' 

7.  Town  of  Loretto 2G°  14'  111°  30' 

8.  Carmen  Island,  east  point 26°  10'  111°  02' 

9.  Catalina,  or  Catalan  Island,  north  point 25°  41'  110"  47' 

10.  Ceralvo  Isknd,  north  end '. 24°  23'  109'  45' 

11.  San  Jose  del  Cabo,  mission  (land  observation) 23°  03'  30"  109°  41' 

12.  Cape  San  Lucas  (Belcher,  1S;?9,  land  observation). ..  22°  52'  109°  53' 

San   Bernabe  Bay  or  Porto  Soguro,  or  Pueblito 
del  Cabo,  is  only  a  few  miles  just  inside  to  north- 
east of  Capo  San  Lucas. 
Goixg  from  San  Lucas  vp  (he  Pacific  Coast. 

13.  Mesas,  or  'Table-Lands,  of  Xarvaez 23°  56'  110° 

14.  Gulf  of  Magdalena,  at  Delgado  Point  (land  observa- 

tion)... T 38°  24'  18"  112°  06'  21" 

15.  Cape  Lazaro  (1,300  feet  high) 24°  44'  50"  112°  16'    0" 

16.  Farallones  of  the  Alijos  Rocks,  some  140  miles  from 

the  continent  (Du  Petit  Thouars,  1838) 24°  51'  115°  47' 

17.  Point  Abrcojos 26°  42'  113°  34' 

18.  Ascencion  Island 27°  08'  114°  18' 

19.  San    Bartolomc    or   Turtle  Bay   (Belcher,   land   ob- 

servation)  27°  39' 50"  114°  51' 20" 

20.  Cedros  Island  (bay  inside  eastern  end,  Kellett,  1846, 

land  observation) 28°  03'  115°  11' 

21.  San  Benito  Islets,  west  end 28"  12'  115°  46' 

22.  Santa  Marina  Point,  or  Santa  Maria  (Kellett) 28°  55'  114°  31' 

23.  San  Gerouimo  Island  (Kellett) 29°  48'  115°  47' 

24.  Port  San  Quintin  (west  point,  Belcher) 30°  21'  30"  115°  56'  33" 

25.  Point  Zuiiiga  (Vancouver,  1792,  ship  observation)...  30°  30'  115°  58' 

26.  Ceuizas  Island,  northwest  point  (Vancouver) 30°  32'  116°  02' 

27.  San  Martin  Island  (Kellett) 30°  28'  115°  57' 

28.  Todos  Santos  Bay,  Pt.  Grajero  (Vancouver) 31°  44'  116°  46' 

29.  Boundary  Monument,  opposite    Coronados    Islands, 

which  are  seven  miles  ofi'  shore  (Davidson,  1858)..  32°  31'  58"  46         117°  06'  11"  12 

The  hydroirraphic  points  on  the  coast  from  San  Diego  to  the  northern 
boundary  of  Washington  Territory  were  more  carefully  and  exactly  defined  by 
the  United  States  Coast  Survey  than  ever  before,  and  are  contained  in  David- 
son's ''  Directory  "  before  mentioned. 

In  all  these  twenty-nine  positions  only  eleven  were  made  on  land  from  fixed 
observatories,  wliile  the  others  are  from  shipboard  and  are  unreliable,  though 
sufliciently  and  approximately  correct  to  be  of  practical  use  to  mariners. 

THE    CLIMATE    AND    COUNTRY    OF     THE     CALIFORNIA     PENINSULA RAINS    WITHOUT 

CLOUDS. 

The  climate  of  the  country  between  the  boundary  and  Magdalena  Bay  is  one 
of  the  most  delightful,  salubrious,  and  equable  on  the  face  of  the  globe,  and,  if 
settled,  wc  ^Id  be  among  the  most  accessible  and  acceptable  sanitariums  in  the 
world,  and  is  admirably  adapted  to  raising  many  of  the  fruits  of  the  torrid  zone, 
and  all  of  those  of  the  Mediterranean  basin  as  well  as  all  the  vegetables  and 
cereals  of  Alta  California;  and  all  agree  that  they  are  of  much  better  (piality  than 
those  raised  above  San  Diego,  i  On  the  gulf  shore,  under  the  same  i)arallels,  it 
is  not  only  much  hotter,  but  is  subject  in  the  summer  and  foil  months  to  terrible 
hurricanes  and  water-spouts ;  but  these  do  not  occur  every  year,  and  practised 
mariners  know  how  to  avoid  and  escape  from  them  to  the  ports  close  by  with 
little  difficulty,  '  In  the  winter  months,  after  the  first  rains  of  November  to  May, 
the  transparency  and  delightful  cftects  of  the  cooled  atmosphere  are  said  to  be 


58  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

SO  exhilarating  as  to  be  unequalled  in  the  world  :  the  moonlights  are  as  brilliant 
as  those  of  Arabia  Felix  and  Palestine,  and  good  eyes  can  read  print  with  ease 
from  the  light  of  the  moon ;  the  earliest  notices  since  1539  to  1867  remark  these 
facts. 

A  beautiful  phenomenon  is  experienced  in  the  peninsular  meteorologies  which 
is  felt  on  land  and  on  sea,  particularly  on  the  gulf  coasts,  and  we  believe  is  known 
in  no  other  country.  This  is  the  fall  of  rains  in  the  summer  and  autumn 
when  the  sky  is  without  clouds  and  the  atmosphere  perfectly  serene.  Much 
has  been  written  on  this  by  various  eminent  savants,  and  which,  as  far  as  Ave  are 
aware,  is  not  accounted  for.  But  may  "it  not  be  the  showers  falling  from  those 
immense  water-spouts  or  cloud-bursts  of  which  frequent  examples  occur  in  the 
gulf  shore's,  through  the  Colorado  country,  and  below  the  Santa  Barbara  Chan- 
nel, and  as  high  north  as  the  great  basin  of  Washoe  and  Utah,  of  which  five  or 
six  recorded  examples  have  occurred  since  1861  ?  May  not  these  showers,  taken 
up  by  the  whirlwinds  generated  by  the  cloud-bursts,  sweep  off  the  falling  waters 
far  from  their  centres,  and,  with  the  force  of  the  terrific  winds,  carry  the  rams  into 
perfectly  limpid  atmospheres,  where  they  deposit  their  drops  upon  the  earth  ? 
This  question  may  be  propounded  to  scientific  meteorologists. 

It  must  not  be  supposed  that  such  a  country  is  not  sometimes  scourged  by 
disease ;  on  the  contrary,  the  warmer  and  oldest  settled  parts  below  Magdalena 
are  often  unhealthy  in  the  summer  and  fall,  but  nothing  like  to  other  tropical 
countries  or  even  those  of  the  Mexican  coasts.  The  sun  is  terribly  hot  in  these 
parts,  but  the  air  pure  and  dry,  and  the  Lower  Californians  always  boast  of  the 
salubrity  of  their  hotter  latitudes  now  settled  for  170  years,  and  hundreds  of  in- 
stances, past  and  present,  could  be  reported  of  longevities  of  from  100  to  110 
years  of  age.  It  possesses  the  healthiest  tropical  latitudes  in  the  world,  because 
the  winds  from  the  ocean  and  gulf  temper  effectually  the  ardor  of  the  summer 
suns ;  health  can  be  preserved  there  by  prudence  as  in  the  best  portions  of  Alta 
California.  All  the  mountain  districts  of  the  peninsula  possess  a  uniformly  tem- 
perate and  equable  climate,  preserving  this  quality  in  the  shade  even  in  July  and 
August. 

The  peninsula  is  a  very  steep,  rugged,  rocky  country  in  the  interior  and  on 
many  districts  of  the  coast;  the  shoi-es  in  most  parts  are  lined  with  heavy  sand- 
dunes,  and  the  Jesuit  writers  affirm  that  the  land,  both  on  the  gulf  and  ocean  coasts, 
wasbcUeved  to  be  sensibly  elevating  before  1767.  Lieutenant  Ives,  in  1858,  as- 
sumes that  the  gulf  bottom  is  also  pei-ceptibly  rising  for,  say,  100  miles  below  the 
mouth  of  the  Colorado. 

Several  California  observers  suggest  that  the  Gulf  of  California  at  one  time 
extended  up  to  the  Sierra  Nevadas,  while,  on  the  other  hand,  others  think  it  can 
be  proved  that  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado  at  one  time  opened  not  far  from  the 
parallel  of  Guaymas  harbor;  that  is,  its  ancient  entrance  is  nearly  200  miles  south 
of  its  present  one,  and  that  it  run  up  to  the  north  by  prior  or  subsequent  changes 
and  rechangcs  to  the  Great  Death  Valley,  north  of  the  Mohave,  near  where  arc 
the  present  silver-mines  of  the  Pahnaragat  district  of  1867. 

ITS    CURIOUS    FOSSILS    AND    VALUABLE    MINERALS. 

The  peninsula  is  said  even  to  exceed  the  State  of  California  in  the  extent  of 
its  fossil  remains  of  sliells,  fish,  mammalian  animals,  and  even,  as  is  suggested,  fos- 
sil man.  There  are  inunense  formations  of  fossil  remains  in  the  vicinities  of 
Magdalena  Bay,  Loreto,  and  Mcleje,  noticed  by  the  Jesuit  writers  and  by  Belcher 
and  others. 

Argentiferous  galenas  are  very  common  above  Moleje,  and  pure  suljihur  oc- 
curs in  heavy  deposits  near  the  volcano  vicinities,  not  far  from  the  same  old  mis- 
sion. Copper  ores  abound  in  several  localities  between  San  Diego  and  Eosario, 
and  two  mines  have  been  worked  there  ever  since  1855,  and  copper  ores  are  also 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORXIA.  59 

said  by  the  Jesuit  writers  to  be  very  coniinou  on  tlie  iiortbeni  gulf  coasts  and 
islands;  those  of  Ceralvo,  San  Jose,  and  I^spiritu  Islands  beino-  very  rich  and 
now  well  known.  It  is  likely,  when  the  business  is  well  established,  that  the  cop- 
per deposits  of  the  peninsula  will  be  very  profitably  worked,  from  the  proximi- 
ties of  all  of  them  to  harbors  and  ports,  as  in  no  other  parts  of  the  world  are  they 
so  accessible  to  ijood  seaports.  Quicksilver  ores  are  also  said  to  be  found  near 
Santa  Catalina  Mission  since  1858.  The  salinas  of  the  ocean  coasts  from  San 
Quintin  to  Majxdalena  are  very  numerous  and  plentiful,  and  the  salt  is  easily 
gathered.  The  salt-mines  of  Carmen  Island  are  said  to  be  sutficiently  extensive  to 
supply  the  whole  world,  and  laro-e  quantities  of  salt  have  been  sent  to  San  Francisco 
durino-  the  last  ten  years,  as  it  is  very  dry,  pure,  and  of  the  i)rimest  quality,  and 
is  taken  out  only  a  short  distance  from  ship-anchorage.  Before  1750  the  Jesuits 
oftered  to  the  viceroy  to  entirely  support  the  California  missions,  if  this  deposit 
were  granted  to  them  by  the  King  of  Spain,  but  the  otier  was  declined.  For  the 
last  few  years  the  Mexican  Government  has  raised  considerable  revenues  from 
farming  out  this  salt-mine.  All  these  salinas  will  add  greatly  to  the  resources 
of  the  country  for  the  reduction  of  mineral  ores  and  salting  the  product  of  the 
teeming  tisheries  of  the  coasts. 

Marble  of  excellent  quality  is  found  near  La  Paz  and  Loreto,  and  sulphate 
of  lime  or  gypsum  in  large  slabs,  so  transparent  as  to  be  used  for  window-lights. 
Immense  beds  of  gigantic  fossil  oysters  are  found  in  many  of  the  old  settled  dis- 
tricts, some  of  wliicli  measure  two  feet  in  length  and  weigh  20  lbs.,  and  have  lono- 
been  used  for  making  bricklayers'  lime.  Between  1861  and  1864,  some  twenty 
mining  companies  were  incorporated  in  San  Francisco  to  work  the  silver-copper 
mineral  deposits  of  the  peninsula,  particularly  those  called  El  Triunfo  and  San 
Antonio  Real,  below  La  Paz,  and  large  amounts  of  money  have  been  spent  and 
successful  progress  made  in  three  or  four  of  them.  The  silver-mines  near  San 
Antonio  were  worked  since  1748,  and  much  metal  obtained  from  them  by  very 
simple  processes,  amounting  to  something  under  a  million  of  dollars.  Deposits 
of  impure  carbonate  of  soda,  or  tequisquite,  exist  in  several  parts,  and  are  in  com- 
mon use.     All  kinds  of  building-stone  are  veiy  accessible  and  abundant. 

One  of  the  Jesuit  missionaries,  about  1765,  found,  near  a  locality  of  San  lo-- 
nacio  Mission,  called  San  Joaquin,  the  remains  of  a  fossil  animal,  whose  bones 
exactly  resembled  those  of  a  human  being:  the  dimensions  of  the  skull,  veite- 
bi-al  and  leg  bones  represented  the  remnants  of  a  man  over  eleven  feet  high. 
Similar  remains  have  been  foun<l  in  Tuolumne  and  Calaveras  Counties  in  Cali- 
fornia State  since  I860,  which  highly  excited  the  attention  of  the  learned  world. 

It  would  seem,  from  all  accounts,  that  the  country  oflers  one  of  the  most  in- 
viting fields  in  the  world  for  the  investigations  of  the  mineraloo-ist,  ffeoloG'ist, 
and  tossilologist.  || 

CHAPTER  XI. 

MIXEKAL    WATERS HOT     SPRINGS THE     CURIOUS     VERMILIOX-COLORED    CAUSTIC 

WATERS    OF     THE    GULF-HEADS. 

Mineral  springs  of  highly  medicinal  qualities,  both  warm  and  cold,  are  found 
in  nearly  every  district  of  the  country.  Several  boiling-hot  springs  are  known 
on  the  gulf  shores  above  San  Felipe  Jesus  harbor. 

One  of  the  most  curious  of  these  mineralized  waters  is  found  in  numerous 
pools  near  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado,  on  the  peninsular  shores.  It  is  in  color 
vermilion-red,  and  of  such  a  caustic  quality  as  to  rot  the  clothes  of  those  who  are 
incautious  in  meddling  with  it,  and  it  produces  quickly  most  irritable  blisters  on 
the  skin,  and  even  boils  and  swellings,  as  in  the  attacks  of  scurvy.  It  is  un- 
doubtedly of  volcanic  origin,  and  contains  large  proportions  jn-obably  of  bromine, 
chlorine,  and  iodine,  as  silver  ores  of  these  powerful  metalloids  are  often  found 


60  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

in  the  Sonora,  Washoe,  and  Arizona  mines,  aad  it  is  well  known  that  bromine 
and  iodine  exist  in  unusually  large  proportions  in  the  marine  waters  of  the  noith- 
ern  coast  and  of  the  Santa  Barbara  Channel.  It  has  lately  been  discovered  in 
France  that  an  analysis  of  the  upper  waters  of  the  Red  Sea  yielded  bromine  in 
such  large  quantities  as  to  be  easily  obtained,  when  there  is  any  great  demand 
for  the  consumption  of  that  powerful  substance.  In  Padre  TJgarte's  expedition 
up  to  the  Colorado  entrances  in  1728,  and  in  that  of  Padre  Consag's  in  1746, 
these  caustic  waters  occasioned  dangerous  ulcers,  blisters,  and  other  sickness  of 
their  boats'  crews,,  and  greatly  retarded  the  success  of  their  explorations.  All 
travellers  and  navigators  should  bear  in  mind  the  dangerous  properties  of  these 
waters ;  they  are  well  known  by  the  American  navigators  to  the  Colorado  and 
those  who  reside  on  the  river  below  Fort  Yuma,  and  are  not  to  be  trifled  with. 
In  some  seasons  it  is  hard  to  keep  a  ship  clear  of  this  water. 

SOME    OF    THE    STRANGE    BEASTS  AND    FISHES  OF    THE    PENINSULAR  WATERS MER- 

MAinS    AND    DEVIL-FISHES GREAT    STORES     OF    WHALES     AND    SEALS NORTH- 
PACIFIC    WHALE-FISHERY    IN"     1866. 

The  waters  of  Lower  California  abound  with  some  of  the  grandest  and  largest 
of  marine  vertebrata  and  mammalia.  There  are  some  ten  species  of  whales,  or  the 
cetacea,  among  which  is  the  sperm  whale,  which,  forty  years  ago,  were  numer- 
ous between  the  Santa  Barbara  Islands  and  Cape  Sau  Lucas,  and  made  the  for- 
tunes of  hundreds  of  ships.     There  is  a  small  species  of  cetacea  found  between 
Moleje  and  the  head  of  the  gulf,  which  is  said  to  yield  a  very  superior  quality 
of  oil,  that  dries  so  quick  as  to  be  used  in  painting,  and  is  equal  to  linseed-oil.  The 
California  whale,  right  whale,  hump-backs,  and  several  other  varieties,  are  found 
mostly  on  the  ocean  coast,  and  since  1854   regular  settlements  of  whalemen  arc 
made  among  the  bays,  islands,  and  harbors  between   Magdalena  and  San  Diego 
(the  centre  of  which  is  Magdalena  Bay),  who  capture  the  cetacea  from   shore, 
Avhere  the  blubber  is  "  tried  out,"  and  the  whalebone  cleansed  and  prepared  for 
market.     Wlien  sufficient  material  is  accumulated,  it  is  either  sold  to  shore  mer- 
chants or  to  visiting  whale-ships,  or  it  is  shipped  direct  to  San  Francisco,  Avhich 
is  the  centre  of  all  their  operations,  and  from  whence  they  receive  their  outfits 
and  make  their  ultimate  returns.     In  some  years  there  are  reported  to  have  been 
not  less  than  thirty  ditferent  whaling  and  sealing  camps  below  San  Diego,  aggre- 
gating some  2,000  men  ;  and  as  seals  and  the  affiliative  tsimilies  are  in  the  greatest 
abundance,  cargoes  are  often  prepared  with  great  rapidity.     Some  five  or  six  of 
these  camps  have  become  permanent  establishments  of  ten  years'  standing,  and 
many  of  the  whalemen  have  married  in  the  country  and  settled  ashore  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  camps,  particularly  in  Magdalena  Ba)\     All  this  business,  with  a 
stable  and  intelligent  government,  is  capable  of  most  profitable  and  even  indefi- 
nite   extension,   and    will    greatly  assist    in   the  development  of  the   country, 
especially  as  the  whole  ocean  coast  is  fnll  of  ports  and  bays,  and  particularly  salu- 
brious, and  sup2)lics  of  edible  fish,  turtle,  and  shell-fish  arc  abundant  and  easy  to 
take.     Great  numbers  of  these  "  'longshore  whalemen"  arc  Portuguese  mariners 
brought  up  in  the  American  trade,  and  very  steady,  quiet,  industrious  men.   The 
New  Bedford  journals  of  January,  1867,  give  the  following  data  on  the  status  of 
the  whale-fisheries  of  the  North  Pacific  for  the  year  1866.     The  total  number  of 
whale-ships  belonging  to  the  United  States  in  1866  was  311,  measuring   73,289 
tons'  capacity;  of  these,  281  belonged  to  the  State  of  Massachusetts,  the  most 
of  which  hailed  from  New  Bedford. 

In  1866  there  were  106  vessels  of  this  fleet  employed  in  the  North  Pacific, 
who  made  a  catch  of  65,000  barrels  of  oil,  or  1,950,000  gallons.  As  many  as 
two-thirds  of  these  vessels  fished  in  the  Arctic,  Kodiak,  and  Okotsk  Seas,  above 
the  parallels  of  52°;  while  the  remaining,  or  say  25  vessels,  fished  on  the  Lower 
California  and  Mexico  west  coasts,  and  to  the  north  of  the  Galapagos.     This 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  01 

includes  no  'lono;t*liore  wlialin^  ventures  of  the  Callfoniia  coasts,  havinj^  their 
centres  in  San  Francisco.  The  amount  of  products  in  money  value  of  the  'long- 
shore tisheries  between  San  Francisco  and  Cape  San  Lucas  may  he  estimated, 
including  the  catch  of  seal-oils,  at  some  $800,000  per  annum  since  1862,  and 
one-half  of  this  pertains  to  Lower  California.  There  arc  no  means  of  getting  at 
a  pro|)er  account  of  these  atiairs,  ours  being  an  estimate  from  the  most  recent 
reports, 

One  of  the  curious  and  interesting  animals  of  the  gulf  waters  is  a  species  of 
dugong,  called  by  the  Spaniards  mulier  and  ivoman  of  (he  sea,  and  which  almost 
answers  to  the  sailor-myths  of  the  mermaid.  It  is  found  all  the  way  from  near 
San  Bjas  up  to  the  islands  of  the  Sal  Si  Puedes,  and  was  first  noticed  by  Gri- 
jalva,  one  of  Cortez's  California  captains  in  1532,  and  has  been  frequently  men- 
tioned as  seen  and  even  caught  from  that  time  to  the  present.  From  the  descrip- 
tions given,  it  appears  never  to  exceed  ten  pounds  in  weight,  eyes  large  and  soft 
in  expression,  a  grayish  dull-white  color  for  the  upper  body,  breasts  similar  to 
those  of  a  man  or  woman,  head  similar  to  a  dog  or  sea  otter,  skin  smooth  and 
without  scales  or  hair  above  the  navel,  and  having  the  lower  parts,  or  one-half  of 
the  body,  like  such  a  fish  as  the  salmon,  and  covered  with  scales  down  to  the  end 
of  the  tail,  which  is  of  half-moon  figure.  The  dimensions  of  this  curious  animal 
appear  never  to  have  exceeded  three  feet,  at  least  of  such  as  have  been  described 
as  handled  or  closely  observed,  and  they  are  so  shy  as  rarely  to  have  been 
taken. 

The  three  great  beasts  of  the  California  seas  are  immense  and  ferocious 
sharks,  or  tiburones,  thirty  feet  long,  the  terrible  manta  raya,  devil-fish,  or 
great  ray,  and  the  great  octopods,  or  eight-armed  cart-wheel-shaped  squids,  so 
fomous  in  marine  traditions.  Some  of  the  sharks  of  the  upper  gulf  waters  are 
said  to  be  as  large  as  middling-sized  California  whales,  and  to  weigh  over  1,000 
lbs.  There  are  great  numbers  of  them  in  certain  parts,  and  they  are  exceedingly 
dangerous  to  pearl-divers,  boatmen,  and  fishermen,  both  on  the  ocean  coasts  be- 
low Cedros  Island  and  among  the  islands  of  the  gulf.  Great  numbers  of  the 
difierent  species  of  sharks  abound  in  every  bay  and  harbor,  and  there  is  no 
doul)t  the  manufacture  of  shark-oil  could  be  most  profitably  carried  on. 

The  manta  raya  is  an  immense  brute,  of  great  strength,  cunning,  and. 
ferocity,  and  is  more  the  terror  of  the  pearl-divers  than  any  other  creature  C)f 
the  sea.  It  measures  from  nose  to  tail  as  much  as  20  feet  at  maturity,  nearly 
five-eighths  of  which  consist  of  an  immensely  long  and  spinous  covered  tail ; 
the  animal  has  been  found  to  weigh  1,000  lbs.,  and  to  require  60  men  to  lift  it 
by  tackles  and  blocks  on  board  of  a  British  man-of-war.  The  superior  forward 
j)arts  consist  of  immense  thick  blanket-like  flaps,  12  feet  across,  and  the  nose  is 
said  to  be  armed  with  a  beak  or  horny  mandible.  All  the  upper  parts  of  the 
body  are  provided  with  hard  knots  and  spines,  and  the  hide  is  very  rough,  and 
thicker  than- that  of  a  bull.  The  meat  of  this  "  beast  of  the  sea"  is  said  to  be 
particularly  good  eating,  and  very  white  and  juicy,  and  is  much  more  compact 
than  that  of  ordinary  fish.  The  liabit  of  the  animal  is  to  hover  at  the  surftice 
over  the  pearl-divers,  obstructing  the  rays  of  the  sun,  and  moving  as  the  diver 
moves,  and,  when  he  is  obliged  to  come  up  for  breath,  hugging  him  in  its  im- 
mense flaps  until  he  is  suflbcated,  when  the  brute,  with  his'iorniidable  teeth  and 
jaws,  devours  him  with  a  gluttonous  voracity.  They  are  also  found  at  the  en- 
trances of  the  Mexican  rivers,  between  Tehuantepec  Bay  and  Mazatlan,  where  in 
some  places  they  are  very  numerous,  and  dangerous  to" the  boatmen  and  fisher- 
men, frequently  attacking  boats  with  their  beak  and  flaps,  and  sometimes  up- 
setting them.     Many  fishermen  and  pearl-divers  have  been  killed  by  them. 

The  eight-armed  octapod,- or  great  squid,  shaped  like  some  gigantic  spider, 
inhabits  the  rocky  holes  and  cavities  of  the  sea-shore,  particularly  where,  shel- 
tered by  headlands  and  islets,  the  force  of  the  surfs  and  swells  is  broken,  and 
among  the  sea- weeds,  and  they  can  quietly  watch  for  their  prey.     At  all  ages 


Q2  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

this  beast  is  dangerous,  but  at  maturity  it  attains  an  immense  size,  and  is 
the  fountain-head  of  whalemen's  fish-yarns,  and  said  to  come  up  to  the  size 
of  a  74-gun  frigate,  and  can  attack  and  throttle  a  sperm-whale.  Its  arms 
measure  from  10  to  20  feet  in  length,  tapering  from  three  inches  in  diameter  to 
the  thickness  of  a  man's  finger.  On  the  lower  parts  it  is  furnished  with  flat 
disks  or  suckei"s,  as  round  as  a  dollar,  every  two  or  three  inches  apart;  the- 
body  is  a  spherical,  pulpous,  flat  mass,  in  the  middle  of  which  is  a  large  bill  or 
beaic,  shaped  exactly  like  that  of  a  vulture  or  a  parrot.  AVith  these  arms  they 
seize,  smother,  and  envelop  their  prey,  and  at  leisure  devour  it  with  their 
sharp  and  formidable  bills.  The  skin  is  as  smooth  and  slippery  as  an  eel's,  and 
of  a  dark  lead-color,  and  its  greedy,  round,  red  eyes  express  the  ferocity  of  a  de- 
mon, and  is  altogether  an  ugly,  dangerous  customer  to  get  within  a  man's  distance. 

Sword-fish  of  immense  sizes  are  also  fourid  in  the  peninsular  waters,  which 
have  been  known  to  attack  vessels  and  leave  their  shafts  in  its  timbers.  Another 
sino-ular  fish  is  the  boeps,  ochione,  or  bull's  eye,  which  has  only  one  large  eye, 
set  in  the  centre  of  the  upper  part  of  its  body,  of  the  size  of  a  bullock's; 
and  seems  to  be  a  species  of  sun-fish,  from  the  descriptions  given  of  it.  It  is 
described  bv  Clavijero  as  some  two  pounds  in  weight,  entirely  flat  on  the  under 
pai-ts,  and  elevated  above,  with  a  single  eye  set  in  the  middle  of  the  upper  parts, 
and  even  when  dead  making  an  ugly,  repulsive  appearance.  The  boton  is  a 
curious  fish,  not  well  described,  and  the  liver  of  which  is  said  to  contain  a  viru- 
lent poison. 

Nearly  every  species  and  variety  of  edible  fish  found  in  the  waters  of  the 
Mediterranean,  or  on  the  coasts  of  Europe,  or  the  West  Indies,  and  of  Atlantic 
North  America,  or  Chili,  are  found  in  Lower  California  in  greater  abundance 
than  elsewhere,  and  which  have  been  before  touched  on  in  this  summary.  Their 
numbers  are  not  only  incredible,  but  many  of  them  are  of  extraordinary  beauty 
and  brilliancy  of  colors.  The  missionary  and  discovery  writers  bear  invariable 
testimony  to  this  feature  of  the  animal  life  of  California. 


THE  SHELL-FISHERIES Al'LONES  AND  PEARLS CORALIXES THE    EDIBLE    OYSTER. 

The  family  of  Haliotis,  univalves,  represented  by  the  anion  (improperly  termed 
abalone),  or  ear-shaped  shells  of  Monterey  port,  number,  as  is  said,  over  18 
difterent  species  or  kinds  on  the  coasts  of  Lower  California.  They  are  particu- 
larly abundant  in  the  islands,  and  in  and  out  of  the  bays  and  ports  where  rocky 
and  not  sandy  formations  abound.  For  the  last  ten  years  the  northern  aulon- 
fisheries  above  Santa  Barbara  depleting  year  by  year,  the  Chinese  fishermen 
have  gathered  large  quantities  of  this  excellent  shell-fish,  below  Cedros  Island, 
which,  when  dried,  brings  from  812  to  ^30  a  quintal  in  the  Chinese  markets, 
and  is  considered  a  great  delicacy.  The  demand  for  it  is  large  and  permanent. 
This  shell-fish  is  much  more  abundant  in  the  peninsular  waters  than  in  those  of 
Alta  California.  Of  later  years  a  tratlic  has  opened  for  the  shipment  of  the 
shclis  to  Europe  and  China,  which  are  preferred  by  many  manufacturers  for 
ornamental  purposes  to  those  of  the  pearl  oyster,  or  mother  of  pearl. 

The  pearl  oyster  is  also  said  to  exist  in  two  distinct  species,  and  a  third  is 
thono'ht  to  be  the  same  as  those  met  with,  among  the  Sal  Si  Puedes  Islands. 
Pearl  oysters  are  not  found  everywhere  on  the  coast,  but  intercalate  at  intervals, 
pi'efcrrhiff  well-sheltered  bays  or  harbors  where  fresh  water  empties ;  but  this 
rule  is  not  invariable.  They  are  met  with,  for  over  1,000  miles  of  shore  line,  be- 
tween Magdalena  and  around  the  cape,  and  all  the  way  up  the  gulf  north  above 
An<yel  Guardian  Island,  and  the  missionaiy  writers  state  that  after  hurric  anes 
they  are  knoAvn  to  have  been  thrown  up  on  the  beaches  by  the  cart-load. 
There  are,  doubtless,  many  extensive  beds  never  fished  or  even  discovered  in 
these  little-known  seas,  as  is  the  habit  of  the  oyster  family,  and  there  is  every 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNLV.  03 

likoliliood  tlioy  could  be  cultivated  and  increased  as  are  the  oysteries  of  Loni' 
Island  and  the  Potomac,  or  of  France  and  England. 

The  pearl-iish cries,  which  are  always  prosecuted  near  noon  and  in  cloudless 
weather,  are  still  pursued  in  the  peninsular  waters  every  year,  and  it  is  very 
likely  tlie  new  diving--a]>paratus  and  machinery,  getting  into  such  common  use 
in  San  Francisco  and  other  large  ports  for  submarine  operations,  would  succeed 
admirably  in  facilitating  not  only  the  finding  and  working  of  them,  but  in  haul- 
ing larger  numl)ers  to  the  surface.  A  New  York  company  is  now  in  operation 
in  the  pearl  islands  of  the  bay  of  Panama,  with  a  diving-apparatus,  specially 
adapted  to  this  business,  which  is  stated,  in  January,  1867,  to  be  in  successful 
working,  for  account  of  which  see  page  75.  It  is  to  be  borne  in  mind  that  the 
value  of  good  pearls  will  make  it  always  profitable  to  look  for  them,  and  a  num- 
ber one  size  and  lustre  is  worth  still  from  ^5,000  to  $6,000,  and  even  more,  for 
single  pearls.  Ordinary  pearls  are  always  abundant  every  year,  but  extraordi- 
nary sizes  and  colors  are  very  rare.  The  most  splendid  of  the  pearls  in  the 
Spanish  rcpalia  were  brought  from  the  gulf  of  California  before  Napoleon's  in- 
vasion,-and  they  had  always  been  in  high  demand  in  Spain  since  the  days  of 
Cort<?z.  An  American  minister,  in  1863,  says  that  some  of  these  pearls  were  as 
large  as  pigeons'  eggs,  and  were  among  the  most  valuable  jewels  in  the  crown 
regalia.  The  common  way  of  ])earl-diving  by  men  from  open  boats  is  of  great 
antiquity,  and  is  practised  in  Ceylon,  Persia,  among  the  Malayan  Islands,  and 
on  the  islands  ofif  the  coasts  of  Venezuela  and  in  Panama  Bay,  as  well  as  in  the 
gulf  of  California.  As  we  have  mentioned  before,  a  California  pearl-diving  com- 
pany was  instituted  in  London  in  1825,  during  the  great  mining  excitement  of 
those  times,  the  management  of  which  was  put  under  Lieutenant  Hardy,  avIio 
came  out  to  Lower  California  afterward  to  prosecute  the  enterprise,  but  no  re- 
liable accounts  have  reached  us  of  how  much  profit  resulted,  and  it  has  generally 
been  considered  an  entire  failure.  Humboldt  mentions  that  in  1802  aMexicau 
priest  invented  a  diving-bell  for  the  purpose  of  taking  pearl  oysters,  which  he 
experimented  on  in  one  of  the  lakes  near  Mexico  City,  over  7,000  feet  above  the 
sea,  but  nothing  more  ever  came  of  it.  The  pearl  oyster  has  been  eagerly 
hunted  in  Lower  California  every  year  since  the  times  of  Cortez,  and  the  early 
divers,  even  before  his  arrival,  found  them  much  easier  than  they  did  after  1750, 
and  the  Indians  possessed  great  numbers  of  them,  which  they  counted  as 
money,  and  hung  in  strings,  as  to  this  day  they  preserve  their  common  shell 
money  ;  the  early  traders  got  great  bargains  by  exchanging  trinkets  and  knives 
for  valuable  gems.  After  heavy  storms  in  the  season  of  1740,  immense  banks 
of  pearl  oysters  were  thrown  up  by  the  waves,  and  completely  paved  many 
parts  of  the  ocean  coasts  below  and  above  Magdalena  Bay.  The  Indians  of  the 
vicinities  of  the  Mission  of  San  Ignacio,  then  recently  civilized,  knowing  the  csti- 
matiun  in  which  these  were  held  by  the  Spaniards,  brought  large  quantities  of 
pearls  from  this  sea-upheaval  to  the  mission,  and  sold  them  to  Manuel  Oslo  and 
his  fellow-soldiers  for  trifiing  values.  With  these  treasures  he  procured  his  dis- 
charge, and,  hastening  to  Sinaloa,  purchased  boats,  supplies,  and  men,  and  in 
1742  was  fortunate  enough  to  fish  up  not  less  than  127  pounds'  weight  of  pearls, 
and  in  1744  the  large  amount  of  275  pounds,  all  of  which  made  Osio  the  richest 
man  in  Lower  California,  and  his  descendants  live  there  to  this  day.  This  lucky 
armador  de  perlas  afterward  commenced  the  first  silver-mine  near  the  Real 
de  Saa  Antonio,  but  he  is  said  not  to  have  made  much  money  by  his  mining 
operations.  The  Jesuit  writers  say  after  1750  the  pearl-fishery  was  absolutely 
abandoned  in  the  peninsular  waters,  but  this  is  not  so,  as  other  Spanish  writers 
state  it  was  followed  profitably  at  periods  down  to  1812,  and  also  after  the  inde- 
pendence in  1822,  and  down  to  the  American  occupation  of  1847. 

Even  since  the  epoch  of  gold,  great  hauls  have  been  made,  and  only  in  1857 
it  was  stated  in  the  San  Francisco  journals,  a  lucky  armador,  or  master  pearl-diver, 
had  taken,  with  his  boats'  crews,  some  three  bushels  of  pearls,  many  of  which 


64  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AXD 

were  very  large  and  valuable.  Antonio  de  Castillo,  a  Spanish  settler,  of  the 
port  of  Chiametla,  below  Mazatlan,  made  a  large  fortune  in  pearl-divincr,  be- 
tween 1618  and  1625,  and  Captains  Iturbi  and  Ortega  about  that  time  engaored 
in  the  business,  and  took  some  extra-fine  pearls  to  Mexico  City,  one  of  which 
sold  for  $4,500,  greatly  stimulating  the  traffic.  The  seamen  of  Cavendish's  ship, 
in  1587,  of  Woodes  Rogers's,  in  iVll,  and  of  Shelvock's,  in  1720,  when  at  the 
cape,  in  exchange  for  common  trinkets,  procured  many  fine  pearls  from  the 
California  Indians,  some  of  which  afterward  became  famous  in  Eugland,  and 
had  considerable  influence  in  stimulating  after  west-coast  adventures.  Cali- 
fornia pearls  of  good  quality  have  been  in  profitable  demand  in  Mexico  and 
Peru  for  the  last  300  yeai's,  and  there  is  no  more  danger  that  the  business  will 
ever  "  dry  up  "  than  of  our  gold-mines,  as  has  often  been  predicted  by  shallow- 
minded  men.  Above  the  Sal  Si  Puedes  Islands,  and  near  Isle  Tiburon,  in  the 
gulf,  is  said  to  abound  a  small  species  of  brilliant  white-shelled  pearl  oyster,  but 
we  are  not  aware  of  the  special  quality  of  pearls  they  yield.  The  species  of  white 
and  red  coral  so  esteemed  in  jewelry  has  been  also  found  in  the  peninsular 
waters  in  considerable  abundance  for  some  years.  Between  1700  and  1710,  the 
king's  share  of  one-fifth  of  all  the  pearls  taken  in  California,  for  each  and  every 
vessel  employed  or  engaged,  amounted  annually  to  Si  2,000.  The  traders  were 
obliged  to  procure  a  license  from  the  governor  of  Sonora,  and  generally  started 
from  Guaymas.  These  vessels  measured  from  15  to  30  tons;  the  owners  are 
called  armadores,  and  the  divers  busos,  and  the  barks,  each,  carried  from  30  to 
50  divers;  the  armador  advanced  all  the  outfits  and  provisions,  and  carried 
supplies,  and  goods  to  exchange  with  his  men  for  pearls :  a  venture  all  round. 
In  the  years  mentioned,  as  many  as  800  divers,  mostly  Yaqui  Indians,  have 
been  employed  in  the  season  from  July  to  October.  In  1825,  as  Forbes  states 
from  Hardy,  18  small  vessels  were  employed,  and,  Avhen  fortunate,  obtained 
from  500  to  1,000  dollars' worth  of  pearls  each.  In  1831  four  small  barks,  with 
boats,  fitted  out  from  the  Sonora  ports,  carrying  200  divers.  One  vessel  got  40 
ounces  of  pearls,  worth  $6,500  ;  another,  21  ounces,  worth  83,000  ;  another, 
15  ounces,  worth  $1,800;  and  the  fourth,  12  ounces,  worth  $2,000;  total, 
$13,300.  In  1855  the  value  of  $65,000  in  pearls  and  pearl-shells  was  obtained, 
and  in  1857  the  amount  of  $22,000  in  pearls,  and  $30,000  in  shells. 

THE  GUANO  DEPOSITS  OF  THE  OCEAN  AND  GULF  SHORES. 

There  are  stated  to  be  guano  deposits  on  several  of  the  islets  and  rocks  of 
the  upper  gulf  sections,  where  myriads  of  sea-fowl  congregate  ;  and,  as  rains  are 
infrequent  there,  the  quality  is,  doubtless,  profitable  to  work.  From  1855  to 
1857  great  excitement  was  created  in  San  Francisco,  touching  the  deposits  on 
the  ocean  coast  of  the  peninsula,  and  the  little  island  of  Elide,  so  called,  as  we 
are  informed  by  CajTtain  Kimberly,  of  Santa  Barbara,  from  an  American  vessel, 
Avhich  first  took  a  cargo,  was  the  centre  of  some  spicy  events  for  many  months. 
The  island  is  said  to  have  yielded  many  large  cargoes  for  several  years,  gaining 
several  hundred  thousand  dollars,  by  a  few  long-headed  speculators ;  but  at 
present,  we  believe,  it  is  exhausted.  Growing  out  of  this  discovery,  some  active 
California  traders  started  off"  to  Mexico,  and  are  said  to  have  secured  a  monopoly 
of  all  guano  deposits  on  both  coasts  of  Lower  California,  the  result  of  which 
was  the  establishment  of  the  well-known  Mexican  Guano  Company,  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. Elide  Island  is  in  the  northern  part  of  Yiscaino  Bay,  in  about  28°  50°, 
and  some  50  miles  northeast  of  Cedros  Island,  and  at  Natividad  and  Assump- 
tion Islands,  below  Cedros,  guano  is  also  said  to  be  found  as  well  as  on  several 
other  islets  and  points  farther  south.  , 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  65 


CHAPTER  XII. 

THE    NATIVE    AND    DOMESTICATED    ANIMALS MOUNTAIN    SHEEP,    AND    GOATS. 

The  iiuliii-eiioiis  quadrupeds,  insects,  birds,  and  reptiles  of  Lower  California 
are  nearly  precisely  those  of  Arizona,  and  tlie  soutliern  parts  of  Alta  California, 
below  Point  Concepcion.  The  quadrupeds  are  grizzly  and  cinnamon  bears,  ante- 
lopes, or  berendas,  big-horn  sheep,  sometimes  called  by  the  Mexicans  tajes  and 
cervatos,  the  mountain-goat,  deer,  Avild-cats,  two  kinds  of  lions,  so  called,  very  de- 
structive to  Ivorses,  ground-squirrels,  gophers,  skunks,  badgers,  raccoons,  coyotes, 
hares,  rabbits,  wolves,  and  foxes.  Among  the  insects  are  locusts,  or  chapules,  which 
are  very  destructive  at  times,  several  species  of  bees  and  wasps,  tarantula  and 
other  spiders,  and  many  other  insects  peculiar  to  Sonora.  Among  the  birds 
are  two  species  of  vultures,  called  Burrowes  vulture,  and  the  California  condor, 
the  common  turkey  buzzard,  various  kinds  of  owls,  eagles,  and  hawks,  the  Cali- 
fornia quail,  blackbirds,  tinches,  luimming-birds,  larks,  ducks,  geese,  a  great 
variety  of  sea-birds,  and  numbers  of  others  of  the  feathered  kingdom,  not  met 
with  in  the  southern  parts  of  the  State  of  California. 

The  Jesuit  tathers  mention  seeing,  on  several  occasions,  large  flocks  of  wild 
goats  on  the  gulf  shores  above  the  latitudes  of  the  Sal  Si  Puedes  Islands,  and 
it  is  likely  identical  with  the  true  Rocky  Mountain  goat,  or  it  may  be  a  distinct 
species.  The  big-horn  sheep,  called  taje  by  the  Loreto  Indians,  was  formerly 
very  plentiful  in  the  mountains,  and  is  figured  in  Venegas's  volumes  ;  it  has  often 
been  met  with  by  mineral  hunters  since  1848. 

The  ox,  horse,  ass,  sheep,  goat,  domestic  fowl,  turkey,  hog,  dog,  and  cat 
were  introduced  by  the  Jesuit  padres  before  1730,  but  they  never  increased  in 
such  proportions  as  they  did  in  Alta  California,  from  the  greater  scarcity  of  wa- 
ter, and  the  rugged  nature  of  the  country.  The  cattle  and  horses  are  extremely 
liardy,  and  acquire  the  habit  of  feeding  on  the  cactus  and  the  agave-plants, 
which  abound  in  prickles ;  and  such  is  the  wise  provision  of  Nature,  that  the 
tongue  and  inside  of  the  mouth  become  so  liardened  as  to  resist  and  break  down 
this  spinous  vegetable  fodder,  and  they  thrive  on  it.  There  can  be  no  doubt  that 
the  fine,  long-hair  goats  of  Cashmere,  Armenia,  Angora,  and  Morocco,  would 
succeed  without  difficulty  in  Lower  California,  as  the  common  goat  is  extremely 
hardy  and  prolific  in  most  parts ;  the  northern  districts  are  admirably  adapted 
to  the  fine-haired  varieties,  as  the  temperature  is  warm,  pleasant,  and  equable. 
These  animals  not  only  furnish  abundant  and  easily-clipped  fleeces,  but  they 
supply  excellent  m.eat  for  the  butcher,  and  the  cost  of  keeping  them  is  much 
less  than  that  of  sheep  or  cattle.  The  camel  could  be  also  introduced,  and 
would  be  very  serviceable  in  travelling. 

]?efore  1848  there  were  said  to  be  in  Lower  California  about  the  following 
numbers  of  domestic  stock  in  the  diSerent  mission  districts,  those  below  the  Sau 
Diego  frontier  being  the  richest,  i.  e.,  between  Santo  Tomas  and  Rosario : 

Cattle 60,000  head. 

Horses 7,000      " 

Sheep 200,000      " 

Mules 2,00()      " 

Asses 2,001)      " 

Goats 20,000      " 

The  ass  and  goat  thrive  better  than  other  introduced  animals.  Hogs 
and  domestic  poultry  arc  always  plentiful  and  cheap.  These  figures  are 
mere  approximates,  the  mission  fathers  of  the  peninsula  never  having  kept 
such  careful  statistics  of  their  animals,  products,  and  Indians,  as  did  those  of 
Upper  California,  so  there  is  no  other  rule  to  go  by  than  popular  report.  Lions, 
coyotes,  wild-cats,  wolves,  etc.,  are  much  more  destructive  to  domestic  animals 
in  the  peninsula  than  above  San  Diego.  The  great  drought  of  1863-64  made 
5 


gg  SKETCH    OP    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

great  havoc  among  the  flocks  and  herds  of  all  parts  of  the  peninsula,  and  in- 
jured the  prospects  of  the  northern  districts  on  the  ocean  particularly. 

THE     NATIVE     AND      INTRODUCED      FRUITS,     GRAINS,      AND     VEGETABLES- — FOREST- 
TREES NO  HISTORY  OF  ITS  BOTANY  KNOWN. 

All  kinds  and  varieties  of  the  cactus  or  prickly-pear  family,  amounting  to 
some  50  distinct  species,  abound  in  every  part  of  Baja  California,  and  yield  the 
most  delicious  and  healthy  quality  of  fruits  in  the  greatest  abundance.  The 
family  of  the  agaves  (mercals,  magueys,  or  century  plants)  are  extremely  abun- 
dant and  varied,  and  it  is  likely  in  the  future  will  make  an  important  article 
of  commerce  for  the  manufacture  of  spirits  from  the  roots,  and  of  rope,  bagging, 
and  paper  fibre,  from  the  leaves  or  pencas,  which  often  weigh  50  pounds.  It 
is  certain  that  the  fibre  of  the  agaves  could  be  furnished  easily  and  in  the  gi-eat- 
est  abundance,  in  any  quantities,  and  within  short  distances  of  ship-anchorage. 
For  rope  and  bagging  it  exceeds  every  fibre  we  have  seen  in  strength,  length 
of  fibre,  and  durability.  The  family  of  acacia-trees,  called  mesquitcs,  algarro- 
bas,  and  locusts,  abound  in  every  part  of  the  country.  Two  kinds  of  native 
palms,  bearing  edible  fruit,  are  very  abundant,  and  several  kinds  of  cone-bear- 
ing trees,  as  pines,  cedars,  etc.  Oaks,  wild  plums,  cottonwoods,  sycamores, 
willows,  and  elder,  are  also  met  with  in  mountain  and  valley. 

The  missionaries,  after  1730,  introduced  the  Arabian  date-palm,  which  suc- 
ceeds admirably,  and  yields  abundantly,  and  also  oranges,  lemons,  and  all  the 
species  of  the  citrine  family,  pine-apples,  bananas,  plantains,  and  the  most  of  the 
valuable  and  curious  fruits  produced  in  Mexico,  below  the  level  of  3,000  feet. 
They  also  planted  the  vine,  olive,  fig,  pomegranate,  almond,  peach,  quince,  and 
even  plums,  apples,  pears,  melons,  watermelons,  and  such  like,  in  more  elevated 
and  cooler  districts ;  the  vine,  fig,  olive,  currant-grape,  almond,  quince,  and 
peach,  are  much  more  luscious,  and  grow  much  quicker,  and  with  less  labor 
and  expense,  than  in  Alta  California,  and  in  many  special  localities  are  unsur- 
passed in  the  world  for  luxuriance,  sweetness,  and  flavor.  The  fig  and  grape 
are  much  sweeter  than  in  our  State,  and  the  grape  ripens  better  and  quicker, 
from  hotter  and  drier  suns,  and  makes  much  richer  wine,  brandy,  raisins,  and 
currants.  Before  1849  the  Lower  Californians  sent  up  annually  to  Monterey 
large  quantities  of  dried  figs,  currants,  grapes,  dates,  and  peaches,  and  clieese 
also,  which  were  sold  at  reasonable  rates  and  good  profits.  The  cultivation  f>f 
all  the  fruits  named,  and  of  many  others  of  Asia  and  Oceanica,  could  be  indefi- 
nitely extended,  with  sutficient  population  and  a  stable  government. 

Wheat,  barley,  oats,  maize,  or  corn,  and  all  the  cereals  of  Europe  or  Asia, 
which  have  been  tried,  succeed  well,  according  to  localities  and  temperature, 
as  well  as  such  vegetables  as  sweet  potatoes,  okra,  peas,  beans,  cabbages,  and 
pumpkins,  onions,  egg-fruit,  and  the  native  vegetables  used  for  the  table  in 
Mexico  and  Peru.  The  sugar  cane  has  been  cultivated  for  more  than  a  century, 
and  yields  a  sugar  as  strong  and  sweet  as  that  of  Peru,  and  very  abundant  in 
juice.  Cofice  has  also  been  tried,  and  its  quality  is  excellent,  as  the  valleys  of 
Lower  California,  where  sheltered  from  heavy  winds,  resemble  in  climate  and 
soil  the  elevated  country  near  ^locha  in  Arabia.  If  there  is  ])lenty  of  such 
land  in  the  peninsula,  coftee  can  be  easily  made  to  become  a  profitable  business, 
but  it  must  be  always  grown  under  the  line  of  heavy  frosts,  or  it  bears  no  fruit. 

The  date-palm,  in  all  its  varieties,  such  as  are  found  in  Egypt,  Morocco,  and 
Arabia,  is  capable  of  being  cultivated  to  an  indefinite  extent  in  Baja  California, 
as  it  grows  in  upland  and  lowland  vigorously,  and  bears  the  finest  quality  of 
fruits.  The  same  may  be  said  of  the  cocoa-nut  palm,  which  could  be  made  to 
flourish  by  the  million ;  indeed,  there  would  be  no  difficulty  in  growing  any 
epecies  of  palm,  except  those  peculiar  to  moist  districts. 

No  botanist  has  ever  consecutively  explored  the  peninsula  in  detail,  and  the 


EXrLORATIOy    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  67 

history  of  its  botany,  or  flora,  like  tliat  of  its  animals,  or  fauna,is  yet  to  be  writ- 
ten.    What  is  known  of  it  is  only  of  partial  districts. 

THE    COUNTRY    ON    THE  PACIFIC  COAST    BETWEEN    VISCAINO    BAY    AND    SAN    DIEGO 
AN    AMERICAN    FUR-TRAPPEr's    ACCOUNT    OF    IT    IN    1827. 

One  of  the  best  portions  of  the  peninsula,  in  soil,  fertility,  climate,  salubrity, 
and  abundant  fisheries,  is  that  settled  by  the  Dominican  friars  between  1774 
and  1800.  The  best  map  of  this  portion  of  old  California  (as  we  are  informed 
by  Captain  Kimberly,  who  has  frequently  visited  it  as  trader  and  otter-hunter) 
is  Payot^s_map_of_1863.  There  is  much  o;ood  land  in  the  vicinity  of  the  esteros, 
or  laodons,  and  also  near  the  missions  of  Rosario,  San  Vicente,  Santo  Domingo, 
and  Santo  Tomas ;  several  permanent  streams  and  a  number  of  coast  lagoons 
furnish  abundance  of  excellent  water  for  animals,  irrigation,  and  sliip  supplies, 
and  turtle  and  fish  are  exceedingly  abundant  and  easily  taken.  The  orange, 
lemon,  banana,  date-palm,  grape,  fig,  olive,  almond,  peach,  pomegranate,  quince, 
and  plum,  do  much  better  there  than  to  the  north  of  San  Diego,  and  are  not 
only  sweeter,  but  are  cultivated  with  much  less  difficulty  than  with  us,  and 
aiTive  at  maturity  much  earlier.  The  climate,  from  its  proximity  to  the  sea, 
is  not  only  extremely  salubrious,  the  people  enjoying  uncommonly  good  health, 
and  being  long  livers,  but  the  atmosphere  is  extremely  fine,  pleasant,  and 
invigorating,  and  seldom  troubled  with  cold  summer  fogs  and  winds;  these  facts 
are  well  known  since  1770,  the  testimony  of  travellers  and  seamen  being  uni- 
form. Many  good  harbors  and  ports  are  found,  with  every  requisite  of  wood 
and  sweet  water  for  the  use  of  ships  ;^nd  all  that  is  Avanted  to  make  a  prosper- 
ous country  is  population  and  a  stable  government :  there  is  said  to  be  sufficient 
good  land  and  other  requisites  to  maintain  and  build  up  a  large  city. 

The  first  American  who  visited  this  section  of  the  peninsula  from  the  East, 
or  indeed  the  first  white  man,  was  James  0.  Pattie,  as  long  ago  as  March,  1827. 
He  was  taken  with  his  father  and  a  party  of  distressed  beaver-hunters  by  a 
squad  of  soldiers  at  the  mission  of  Santa  Catalina,  from  whence  they  travelled 
to  San  Vicente,  and  then  up  the  coast  to  Santo  Toraas,  San  Miguel,  and  San 
Diego,  at  which  place  they  were  all  put  in  prison  by  General  Echeandia,  the 
first  Mexican  governor  of  the  two  Californias,  In  his  book,  Pattie  says  this 
part  of  the  coast  contains  large  quantities  of  fertile  land,  and  the  padres  had 
excellent  vineyards,  gardens,  and  orchards  of  all  kinds  of  fruit,  grains,  and  vege- 
tables, and  feasted  the  travellers  on  good  wines,  fruits,  and  viands.  Some  4,000 
Indians  were  seen  in  Santa  Catalina,  San  Vicente,  Santo  Tomas,  and  San 
Miguel,  and  they  had  then  many  thousand  head  of  horses  and  mules ;  the  valleys 
and  plains  were  covered  with  bands  of  cattle  by  the  thousand,  and  in  Santo 
Tomas  alone  they  had  30,000  sheep.  As  he  did  not  travel  below  San  Vicente, 
it  is  fair  to  estimate  that  the  five  coast  and  vicinous  mountain  missions  to  the 
south  of  San  Vicente,  and  as  far  as  Viscaino  Bay,  must  have  had  equally  as 
many  Indians,  and  been  quite  as  rich  in  cattle,  horses,  and  sheep,  and  had  as  lux- 
uriant gardens,  orchards,  vineyards,  and  cultivated  fields. 

Since  1851  all  this  part  of  the  coast  has  been  infested  by  runaway  rascals 
and  vagabonds  from  Alta  California  and  Mexico,  who  have  greatly  injured  the 
prospects  of  the  respectable  peop|e  settled  in  that  section  of  Lower  California. 
This  got  to  such  a  pass  that  between  1856  and  18G1  several  of  these  despera- 
does had  to  be  shot,  and  their  less  guilty  companions  run  out  of  the  country. 
If  it  were  well  protected  and  governed,  this  section  would  rapidly  increase  in 
wealth  and  population,  as  it  has,  besides  the  above-mentioned  advantages,  excel- 
lent mines  of  copper,  silver,  lead,  coal,  and  other  valuable  minerals.  The  oppo- 
site parallels  on  the  gulf,  which  are  entirely  unsettled,  are  also  said  to  contain 
much  good  land  and  timber,  with  sufficient  good  water  for  large  settlements. 
In  speaking  of  these  northern  sections  it  is  proper  to  bear  in  mind,  that  the 


gg  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AXD 

great  clrou2:ht  of  1863-64,  wliicli  was  so  severely  felt  in  the  two  Californias,  Avas 
experienced  in  Mexico,  Buenos  Ayres,  Chili,  and  Australia,  and  all  over  the 
Mississippi  and  Missouri  countries. 

walker's    expedition    to    lower    CALIFORNIA. 

This  summary  would  not  be  complete  without  some  mention  of  the  crude, 
childish,  and  ill-advised  invasion  of  the  peninsula  by  some  250  to  300  filibus- 
ters under  General  William  Walker,  so  well  known  in  the  State  of  California, 
and  whose  name  afterward  became  famous  in  connection  with  the  civil  wars  of 
Nicaragua  and  Central  America  between  1856  and  1860,  and  who  soon  after 
lost  his  life  by  military  execution  near  Omoa  or  Truxillo,  on  the  Atlantic  coast 
of  Honduras,  thl^ough  the  interference  of  a  British  man-of-war. 

On  the  15th  of  October,  1853,  the  bark  Caroline,  haying  on  board  General 
Walker,  with  a  large  number  of  armed  men,  and  a  regiilar  cut-and-dried  staff 
of  secretaries  of  war,  navy,  state,  etc.,  etc.,  after  the  ancient  Texas  plan,  sailed 
from  San  Francisco,  and  arrived  at  La  Paz  on  the  3d  of  November,  where 
Walker,  having  seized  the  public  archives  and  captured  Robellero  and  Espinosa, 
the  chief  ofticers  of  the  government,  passed  through  several  small  skir- 
mishes, hauled  down  the  Mexican  flag  and  hoisted  a  new  one,  declaring  Lower 
California  a  separate  republic.  W^alker  was  proclaimed  president,  and  a  regular 
staff  of  civil  and  military  offices  defined  and  laid  down.  On  the  ISth  January, 
1854,  all  this  was  changed,  and  Lower  California  and  Souora  declared  an  inte- 
gral government  and  nation  under  the  style  and  title  of  The  Republic  of  Sonora. 
In  the  mean  time  the  bark  Annita,  with  some  100  more  amied  men  under  Colonel 
Watkins,  completed  their  arrangements  on  the  sly,  and  slipped  out  of  San  Fran- 
cisco on  7th  December,  1853,  arriving  at  an  agreed-upon  place  on  the  coast  a 
few  leagues  below  San  Diego,  where  Walker  soon  joined  the  party,  and  com- 
menced dating  his  orders  and  decrees  in  March  and  April,  1854,  from  Santo 
Tomas,  La  Tia  Juana,  La  Grulla,  La  Ensenada,  and  San  Vicente,  shortly  after 
in  the  filibustering  style  of  the  magnifico  order  of  fire-eating  words.  Meeting 
here  much  unexpected  opposition  and  coming  out  of  an  expedition  to  the  Colo- 
rado to  capture  Sonora,  made  in  person  and  resulting  very  disastrously  to  his 
command  and  his  prospects,  on  his  return  to  Santo  Tomas,  being  hard  pressed 
by  the  comandante  Melendez  and  his  Mexican  soldiers,  Walker  "  evacuated 
Lower  California "  and  retired  across  the  frontier  line,  where  Captain  Burton 
and  Major  McKinstry,  United  States  military  officers  at  San  Diego,  received  his 
surrender  on  the  6th  May,  1854.  Walker  gave  his  parole  to  these  officers  to 
take  his  trial  for  a  breach  of  the  neutrality  laws  of  the  United  States,  when 
reporting  to  General  Wool  at  San  Francisco,  and  the  invasion  then  came  to  an 
abrupt  end  by  the  dispersion  of  the  party  at  San  Diego.  The  trial  of  himself 
and  some  of  his  ofiiccrs  was  held  shortly  after  at  San  Francisco,  but,  nothing- 
being  proved,  the  whole  affair  ended  in  smoke,  and  Walker  went  on  editing 
California  newspapers  for  one  or  two  years  longer,  when  he  accepted  the  Nicara- 
gua proposals,  which  all  know  terminated  so  disastrously  to  some  5,000  men. 

the    highest  elevations  of  the  peninsula MOUNTAIN    LAKE    AND    THE  SNOW- 

peaks. 

As  the  vicinities  of  the  bay  of  Yiscaino  are  reached,  and  after  passing  the 
parallel  of  28°,  the  mountain  system  begins  to  rapidly  rise  from  4,000  feet 
to  the  elevation  of  perpetual  snow,  which  it  appears  to  attain  opposite  the 
mission  of  San  Fernando,  which  from  several  accounts  it  seems  to  carry 
imtil  near  the  mission  of  Santa  Catalina.  These  snowy  peaks  (for  it  is  only  on 
the  highest  peaks  snow  is  seen)  must  be  over  12,000  feet  high,  as  they  are 
reported  to  be  covered  with  snow  in  the  spring  and  early  summer,  by  Kino  in 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  gQ 

1702,  Link  in  17G5,  and  by  Pattic  in  1827  ;  but  tlicsc  iicvadas  have  never  been 
laid  down  goographically  correct  in  tlic  two  or  three  old  maps  of  the  Jesuits ; 
indeed,  they  are  not  laid  down  on  any  we  hijve  seen  dated  after  1830,  In  their 
vicinities  is  stated  to  be  a  large  mountain  lake  which  feeds  the  various  small 
streams  north  of  Viscaino  Bay. 

It  is  the  melting  of  the  snows  on  this  range  which  makes  the  northern  part 
of  the  peninsula  so  unich  better  watered  and  more  fertile  than  the  southern  dis- 
tricts, or  even  better  than  our  sections  between  San  Diego  and  San  Bernardino, 
and  in  consequence  several  permanent  but  small  streams  are  found  between 
Santa  Catalina  and  the  latitude  of  Cedros  Island.  After  passing  to  the  north 
of  Catalina  the  land  gradually  lowers  to  3,000  and  4,000  feet,  and  going  south 
from  Cedros  Island  it  fiills  down  by  degTces,  till  it  reaches  the  ocean  level  at 
Cape  San  Lucas. 

THE    PIOCS     FUND    OF    CALIFORNIA DRIED    UP    IN    1867 A    CALIFORNIA   BISHOP- 
RIC   ESTABLISHED    IN    1836 THE     NEW     BISHOP     ARRIVES     AT    SAN    DIEGO    IN 

1841 A     LAND     GRANT    IN     ALTA     CALIFORNIA     TO     ENDOW    A    COLLEGE    FOR 

THE    TWO    CALIFORNIAS. 

During  the  period  of  the  Jesuit  occupation  of  the  peninsula  from  1700  to 
1767,  a  large  amount  was  collected  by  them  in  Mexico  from  various  devout 
men  and  women,  which  they  invested  in  large  haciendas  with  herds,  flocks,  and 
cultivations,  and  in  house  property,  principally  in  Mexico  City.  At  the  expul- 
sion of  the  Jesuits  in  1767,  this  funded  property  had  acquired  a  legal  and 
religious  status  under  the  style  of  "  El  Fondo  Piadoso  de  California,"  worth 
about  81,000,000,  and  yielded  sufficient  income  to  give  to  each  priest  in  the 
California  missions  from  400  to  500  dollars  annually,  together  with  assisting 
the  mission  expenses  generally  ;  no  faithful  and  exact  account,  however,  of  these 
matters,  to  our  knowledge,  has  ever  been  given  to  the  world.  On  the  expulsion 
.of  the  Jesuits  in  1767,  the  fund  was  placed  under  the  care  of  the  king's  treasurer 
in  Mexico,  who  portioned  it  off  yearly  to  each  Dominican  or  Franciscan  mis- 
sion and  priest  in  the  two  Californias,  in  about  the  same  amounts  as  formerly 
paid  to  the  Jesuits.  This  system  was  faithfully  carried  out  until  about  the 
year  1806,  when,  Spain  being  in  trouble  and  money  scarce,  the  king's  fiscal 
agent  in  Mexico  appropriated  some  8200,000  of  it,  and,  from  the  heavy  load  of 
Avar  and  f;imily  troubles  then  accumulating  in  Spain,  it  was  soon  evident  this 
nice  little  amount  would  be  retained  permanently.  The  confusion  of  Mexican 
atiairs  and  the  poverty  of  Spain  after  1810  prevented  any  salaries  or  expenses 
being  paid  out  of  the  fund  for  some  twelve  years  more,  when  the  viceroy's  gov- 
ernment dried  up  (1822),  giving  no  account  to  the  representatives  of  the  Cali- 
fornia friars  in  Mexico  City  of  what  had  become  of  long  lapsed  receipts.  The 
republican  government  kept  things  in  this  way  until  between  1840-44  (having 
nominally  given  the  new  bishopric  of  the  Californias,  instituted  about  1836,  the 
use  of  the  rents  of  the  fund,  from  which  some  driblets  were  obtained),  when 
Santa  Anna  by  a  government  decree  put  it  under  the  charge  of  General  Va- 
lencia as  administrator,  reporting  to  Santa  Arma  for  his  approval.  After  this 
brilliant  cast  the  whole  etlccts,  lands,  houses,  loose  moneys,  etc.,  etc.,  of  the 
fund  evaporated  as  seems  forever  from  the  government  of  the  Catholic  Church 
authorities,  either  in  the  Californias  or  in  Mexico.  When  Archbishop  Alemany, 
of  San  Francisco,  visited  Mexico  about  1854,  with  intent  to  probe  all  these 
matters,  every  thing  was  gone  ;  not  even  a  fragment  remained,  it  is  said,  to  hold  a 
nail  to.  After  1810  the  ^priests  in  the  two  Californias,  until  the  American  flag 
was  raised  in  1846,  were  entirely  dependent  on  the  incomes  from  their  herds, 
cultivatiaagj_vineyards^and  orchards,  for  the  maintenance  of  their  Indians,  the 
care  of  the  churclies  and  the  missions,  and  for  their  own  personal  expenses. 
The  Lower  California  missions  being  very  poor,  except  those  on  the  coast 


70  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

between  San  Diego  and  Kosario,  felt  this  loss  very  severely,  and  these  estab- 
lishments began  rapidly  to  decline  and  run  to  seedy  ruin,  a  state  of  things  com- 
pleted by  the  retirement  of  the  Spanish  priests  after  1829,  and  the  secularization 
of  the  missions  in  1833. 

A    CALIFORNIA    BISHOPRIC    FOR   THE    TWO    CALIFORNIAS   MADE  IN  1836 THE  NEW 

BISHOP    ARRIVES    IN    1841 A    LAND    GRANT    IN    ALTA    CALIFORNIA  TO    ENDOW 

A    COLLEGE    FOR   THE    BISHOPRIC    ISSUED    IN    1844. 

On  the  13th  September,  1836,  the  Mexican  Congress  passed  an  act  erecting 
the  territories  of  the  two  Californias  into  an  episcopal  jurisdiction,  under  the 
title  of  the  Bishopric  of  California,  which  was  charged  with  the  direction  of  the 
Pious  Fund  properties ;  the  bishop  was  to  have  86,000  per  annum,  and  $3,000 
for  an  outfit.  On  the  8th  February,  1842,  the  Government,  by  a  public  decree, 
took  back  the  charge  of  the  Pious  Fund,  against  which  the  bishop  protested, 
without  avail,  however.  Previous  to  this,  in  the  year  1840,  Fria  Francisco 
Garcia  Diego,  a  Mexican  Franciscan,  who  had  served  several  years  previously  in 
the  Alta  California  missions,  was  nominated  by  the  Government  to  the  bishopric, 
and  afterward  confiiined  by  Pope  Gregory  XVI.  at  Rome.  On  the  16th  De- 
cember, 1841,  Bishop  Garcia  arrived  at  San  Diego  from  San  Bias  in  an  English 
vessel,  accompanied  by  several  priests  and  school-teachers,  San  Diego  having 
been  appointed  as  his  residence,  where  and  elsewhere  throughout  Alta  Califor- 
nia he  was  received  with  every  respect,  but  he  never  visited  Lower  California. 
The  bishop's  residence  was  afterward  removed  to  Santa  Barbara,  at  which  place 
he  died  early  in  1846,  before  the  American  flag  was  raised,  and  was  buried 
at  the  mission  of  Santa  Barbara.  In  1850  Father  Joseph  S.  Aleraany  was  made 
bishop  of  Monterey,  which  included  the  jurisdiction  of  the  State  of  California, 
that  of  Lower  California  being  in  abeyance,  as  belonging  to  Mexico.  In  1853 
Father  Alemany  was  made  Archbishop  of  San  Francisco,  and  the  country  north 
above  the  line  of  Santa  Ci-uz  town,  and  south  to  the  Mexican  boundary,  retained 
under  the  name  of  the  bishopric  of  Monterey  and  Los  Angeles,  to  which  was 
appointed  as  bishop,  in  1854,  Gather  Tadeo  Amat,  whose  residence  is  at  Los 
Angeles. 

After  Father  Amat  was  appointed,  the  Mexican  Government,  about  1856, 
desired  to  make  Lower  California  into  a  bishopric,  and,  it  is  said,  requested 
Father  Jose  M.  Gonzalez,  of  Santa  Barbara,  to  take  charge  of  the  diocese,  but 
Father  Gonzalez,  being  well  in  years,  and  having  resided  since  1833  in  Alta 
California,  declined  the  appointment  as  not  proper  at  his  time  of  life  and  at 
such  a  distance  from  his  residence.  In  1861  the  country  above  Sacramento 
was  divided  off  again  by  the  formation  of  an  intermediary  bishopric,  with  its 
centre  at  Marysville,  and  Father  Eugene  O'Connell  as  vicar  apostolic.  After 
1850,  when  Father  Alemany  was  made  first  bishop  of  Monterey  and  second 
bishop  of  California,  or  successor  of  Bishop  Garcia  Diego,  Lower  California 
was  assumed  to  retire  under  the  charge  of  the  bishop  of  Sonora,  whose  resi- 
dence was  at  the  city  of  Culiacan,  and  under  whose  jurisdiction  all  the  missions 
of  the  two  Californias  had  been  placed  since  about  the  year  1774,  and  up  to 
the  year  1840,  when  Garcia  Diego  was  confirmed. 

Under  the  government  of  Micheltoreno,  a  grant  of  eight  leagues  of  land, 
or  about  35,000  acres,  was  made  in  the  year  1844  to  the  bishopric  of  Califor- 
nia, as  dowry  to  establish  and  sustain  an  institution  of  learaing  for  the  youth  of 
the  two  territories.  This  grant  was  located  near  the  mission  of  Santa  Ynez  in 
the  present  county  of  Santa  Barbara,  and  to  this  day  goes  under  the  name  of 
the  Rancho  del  Colegio,  or  College  Ranch,  and  is  valued  at  about  |20,000. 
Under  the  terms  of  the  grant  the  "  College  of  Our  Lady  of  Guadelupe  "  was 
instituted  at  Santa  Ynez  by  Bishop  Diego  Garcia,  and,  after  going  through  many 
reverses,  still  exists  as  an  institution,  under  the  charge  of  Franciscan  teachers, 
with  some  20  pupils. 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  71 

Since  1850  tliis  ijrant  of  land  lias  always  been  adniiiiistered  under  the  charge 
of  Father  Aleniany  at  San  Francisco  for  the  benclit  of  all  the  districts  included 
under  the  charije  of  the  ancient  missionaries  of  both  Lower  California  and  the 
State  of  California,  but  the  profits  and  usufructs  of  the  grant  have  so  far 
amounted  to  nothino-,  as  the  great  drought  of  1803-04  nearly  swept  oft' all  their 
large  stock  of  shecj),  horses,  and  cattle.  When  any  profits  do  issue,  the  eccle- 
siastical body  of  Lower  California  will  receive  its  due  proportion.  In  conse- 
quence of  this  curious  mixture  of  churcli  and  worldly  matters,  the  Roman 
Catholic  ecclesiastical  chiefs  represented  to  the  Pope  at  Rome  how  the  matter 
stood,  and  desired  a  division  of  the  property,  but  Pius  IX.  referred  them  to  the 
Congress  of  the  L^nited  States  as  the  proper  body  to  cause  a  legal  partition  of 
the  grantor  its  usufructs.  This  representation  was  made  to  Congress  in  1864, 
but  up  to  1807  no  eftectual  changes  have  been  made  in  the  status  of  the  College 
Ranch  grant. 

THE    DESTROYED    MISSIONS    OF    THE    COLORADO    IN    l782. 

In  the  foil  of  1782  the  Yuma  Indians  destroyed  the  two  missions  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Colorado,  opposite  the  junction  of  the  Gila,  which  had  been 
founded  a  sbort  time  before  by  order  of  the  Viceroy  Buccarelli,  and  not  far 
from  where  Fort  Yuma  now  stands.  These  missions  were  nine  miles  apart; 
the  upper  one  was  called  La  Purisima  Concepcion,  and  the  lower  one  San  Pedro 
J  San  I'ablo,  and  they  were  under  the  charge  of  four  missionaries  of  the  Fran- 
ciscan College  of  Santa  Cruz  of  Queretaro  City,  which  college  had  charge  of 
all  the  old  Jesuit  missions  of  Sonora.  The  Indians  surprised  the  people  one 
Sunday  when  at  mass,  by  congregating  in  hundreds,  and  murdered  the  two 
missionaries  of  Concepcion,  named  Padres  Juan  Dias,  a  native  of  Estremadura, 
and  Matias  Moreno,  of  Burgos,  and  the  other  two  of  San  Pedro  y  San  Pablo, 
named  Juan  Barrencche,  a  native  of 'Santa  Helena  in  Florida,  and  Francisco 
Garces  of  Arragon;  this  last  was  a  well-known  missionary  traveller  among  the 
Indian  nations  of  the  Gila,  the  Colorado,  and  the  Mohave,  and  had  visited  the 
Moquis  and  several  other  tribes  in  New  Mexico.  With  these  priests  were  also 
murdered  Captain  Fernando  Rivera  Moncada  (who  had  long  served  in  Upper 
and  Lower  California,  and  in  Sonora)  and  some  30  soldiers,  and  as  many 
Sonorians,  male  and  female,  who  had  settled  there  as  colonists  by  order  of  the 
viceroy  to  keep  open  the  overland  communication  between  Upper  California 
and  Sonora.  The  next  year  Colonel  Pedro  Pages  was  sent  from  California  to 
examine  into  the  matter  and  punish  the  Indians,  but  they  could  not  be  caught. 
lie  found  the  bones  of  the  murdered  people  scattered  around,  bleaching  in  the 
sun,  and  had  them  gathered  up  and  buried  w'ith  becoming  decency.  The  bodies 
of  the  missionaries  were  placed  in  boxes  and  carried  by  Pages  to  the  president 
of  the  Sonora  missions  to  be  buried,  after  which  Pages  passed  to  Arispe  to  re- 
port the  results  to  the  comandante-general,  l)e  Croix.  Padre  Kino  had  also 
founded  a  small  out-mission,  not  far  from  the  junction,  but  on  the  Gila  bottom, 
about  1704,  which  he  called  San  Uionisio,  but  this  had  been  deserted  since 
1720. 

THE    CHINESE    AS    LABORERS    IN    LOWER    CALIFORNIA. 

Whatever  may  be  done  in  future  under  the  different  political  aspects  which 
may  obtain  in  the  California  peninsula,  no  great  amount  of  agricultural,  marine, 
or  mineral  products  can  be  accumulated  without  a  sure  and  sutficient  supply  of 
tropical  laborers  at  reasonable  rates.  The  only  people  who  can  till  this  neces- 
sary vacancy  for  long  years  are  the  Chinese,  who  have  proved  sufliciently  docile 
ia  railroad  and  manufacturing  oper.lttSns'in  California  State,  or  in  P(.'ru  and  the 
Sandwich  Islands  as  cultivators  of  sugar  and  other  products.  With  proper 
treatment  and  good  laws,  under  the  management  of  capitalists,  the  copper,  sil- 
ver, and  lead  mines,  the  overflowing  fisheries,  the  cultivation  of  the  vine,  olive, 


Y2  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

almond,  date-palm,  maguey,  cocoa-palm,  nuts,  figs,  and  cuiTants,  and  of  sugar, 
cotton,  coftee,  chocolate,  or  cocoa,  tea,  and  hundreds  of  other  tropical  and  in- 
tertropical productions  could  be  carried  on  with  great  profits  and  in  a  very 
healthy  and  desirable  climate,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  good  shipping  ports,/  The 
Chinese  are  not  strangers  on  the  Mexican  coasts,  having  resided  in  Acapulco, 
San  Bias,  and  other  places,  for  years  before  ISOO,  having  come  in  the  old 
galleons  from  Maiiilla  as  merchants,  servants,  or  sailors,  and  many  of  their  de- 
scendants exist  to  this  day  in  Western  Mexico.  There  arc  no  tropical  laborers 
either  as  good,  or  as  cheap  and  docile,  as  the  laboring  classes  of  China,  and  after 
a  while  they  would  soon  make  permanent  residence  in  the  country.  They 
are  doubtless  intended  by  Divine  Providence  to  play  a  most  important  part  in 
the  development  of  the  countries  of  Pacific  North  and  South  America:  nothing 
can  long  obstruct  their  coming. 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

THE    RAILROAD    LINES    TO    CONNECT    SAN    FRANCISCO    WITH    LOWER    CALIFORNIA. 

There  are  now  regularly  organized  railroad  corporations  to  connect  the  bay 
of  San  Francisco  with  the  countries  of  the  Colorado  and  the  gulf  of  California, 
which  without  a  doubt  will  be  completely  effected  before  the  year  1880,  or  only 
13  years  hence.  These  may  be  enumerated  as  follows,  and  all  of  them  will  join 
"with  the  great  railroad  of  the  central  route  between  Sacramento  and  Great  Salt 
Lake,  and  so  to  the  Mississippi,  which  will  be  completed  by  the  1st  of  January, 
1870: 

1.  The  southern  railroad  coast  line  from  San  Jose  to  Gilroy,  and  over 
through  the  Tulare  Valley,  and  from  thence  by  the  way  of  Los  Angeles  and 
San  Diego  to  the  Colorado,  generally  callfid  the  Phelps  Company. 

2.  The  Sacramento  and  Arizona  Railroad  Company,  from  Sacramento  via 
Stockton,  Visalia,  Fort  Tejon,  and  to  the  junction  of  the  Colorado  and  Gila. 

3.  Air-line  railroad  line  from  INLatagorda  Bay,  in  Texas,  by  the  Mesilla  Val- 
ley, the  table-lands  of  Chihuahua,  Arizona,  and  across  the  Colorado  Valley  and 
the  coast  mountains  to  San  Diego  Bay ;  called  Pease  and  Wood's  Line. 

4.  A  line  from  Great  Salt  Lake,  via  the  Pahranagat  silver-mines,  to  the  Colo- 
rado River  at  a  navigable  point. 

5.  The  railroad  company  of  General  Angel  Trias,  which  has  a  route  sur- 
veyed from  Matamoras  and  through  Tamaulipas,  Coahuila,  Chihuahua,  Durango, 
and  Sonora,  to  the  port  of  Guaymas,  with  liberal  grants  of  land,  mining  privi- 
leges, etc.,  from  the  Mexican  Government. 

All  these  routes  will  be  accompanied  by  telegraph  lines.  Railroad  and  tele- 
gTaph  lines  will,  of  course,  follow  through  the  length  and  breadth  of  Lower 
California,  and  througli  all  parts  of  Sonora,  and  down  to  ]\Lizatlan,  there  being 
no  insuperable  difficulties  in  existence.  The  Overland  Mail  route,  through  from 
Texas  and  Arizona  to  San  Diego,  will  likely  also  be  soon  reopened,  and  after 
that  we  shall  speedily  have  regular  mail  lines  between  San  Diego  through  to 
Cape  San  Lucas.  So  that,  within  a  time  much  shorter  than  expected,  daily  mail 
communications  may  be  instituted  between  San  Francisco  and  the  southern 
parts  of  the  peninsula,  and  also  from  the  Gila  all  through  Sonora  and  Sinaloa 
to  Mazatlan. 

The  effects  of  the  Panama  Railroad,  the  railroads  through  Tehnantepec, 
Nicaragua,  Honduras,  Cliiriqui,  and  Costa  Rica,  and  the  great  ship-canal 
through  the  Isthmus  of  Darien,  all  of  which  will,  doubtless,  be  eftected  by  1880, 
the  passage  by  the  canal  of  the  Isthnms  of  Suez,  the  steam  lines  from  California 
to  China  and  from  China  to  Europe,  with  the  telegraph  crossing  from  America 
to  Asia,  and  thence  through  Russia  to  England,  and  so  back  to  America,  will, 
in  the  short  space  of  twenty  years,  accumulate  such  overwhelming  results  in  the 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA,  73 

North  Pacific  States  as  to  involve,  by  the  forces  of  an  irresistible  attraction,  the 
peninsula  of  California  in  the  grand  circle  of  events  in  commerce  and  politics 
now  rapidly  hastening  to  a  providential  culmination. 

SCRAPS    AND    FRAGMENTS  OF  BAJA  CALIFORNIA  NOTABILIA. 

The  Dominican  missionaries  state  that  the  Indians  of  Comondu  Loreto, 
Cadegomo,  and  Moloje  are  false,  melancholy,  and  very  filthy  ;  those  of  San  Fernan- 
do and  Rosario  arc  docile,  pacific,  and  easily  managed  ;  those  of  San  Domingo  and 
San  Vicente  are  untjuiet,  ])roud,  and  fickle  ;  Avhile  those  of  Santo  Tomas,  San 
Pedro  Martyr,  Santa  C'atalina,  and  San  Miguel,  are  quick-tempered,  treacherous, 
■warlike,  and  difficult  to  govern. 

The  Indians  of  the  missions  to  the  sonth  of  San  Ignacio  were  so  infected 
with  the  syphihs,  measles,  small-pov,  and  other  diseases  imported  by  the 
Spaniards,  which  occasioned  such  ravages  among  them,  that  not  one  of  them 
Avus  left  in  several  of  the  reductions  before  1794,  while  in  others  those  num- 
bering by  thousands  were  diminished  to  hundreds.  The  sraall-pox  is  said  to 
have  been  introduced  about  1781  by  a  company  of  Sonorians.  By  the  year  ^ 
1825,  it  is  said,  not  a  single  pure  Indian  could  be  seen  in  the  missions  below 
Loreto.  ■ 

In  the  year  1774  the  King  of  Spain  donated  |1,000  to  found  the  mission  of 
La  Rosario,  in  the  circles  and  vicinities  of  which  the  padres  found  several  thou- 
sand Indians. 

In  1781  the  mission  of  San  Vicente  -was  attacked  by  2,000  Yuma  Indians 
from  the  mountains,  who  did  great  injury.  This  attack  was  soon  afterward 
avenged,  and  the  Indians  severely  punished,  by  Don  Theodore  de  Croix,  co- 
mandante  of  the  Mexican  frontier,  wdio  was  subsequently  Viceroy  of  Peru. 

Between  1789  and  1800  the  infant  missions  of  San  Pedro  Martyr  and  Santa 
Catalina  were  several  times  attacked  by  the  Yunias,  who  greatly  retarded  their 
establishment  and -growth.  These  Indians  finally  effected  the  entire  desertion 
and  abandonment  of  the  two  missions  before  1828,  and  at  present  they  are 
seldom  visited. 

An  insurrection  of  the  Indians  of  Santo  Tomas  occurred  in  1803.  Two 
American  vessels  anchored  in  San  Quintiu  Bay  to  get  salt ;  they  had  been  fired 
into  at  San  Diego  by  the  foil. 

In  January,  1795,  Father  Cayatano  Pallos  became  superior  of  the  missions 
of  Lower  California,  and  left  the  frontiers  to  reside  at  Loreto,  He  retired  in 
1797,  and  Father  Vicente  Belda  was  made  superior  in  his  stead.  During  these 
years  much  dispute  was  going  on  among  tbe  northern  missions  as  to  the  ow^ler- 
ship  of  the  valley  of  San  Rafael,  between  San  Vicente  and  San  Domingo. 

In  1802  Padre  Rafael  Arvina  became  superior  of  the  missions,  which,  giving 
much  discontent  to  the  Dominican  missionaries,  nnie  of  them  the  next  year  re- 
fused to  obey  liis  orders,  and  drew  up  a  manifesto  against  him,  and  forwarded  it 
to  Governor  Arrillaga.  The  superior,  on  learning  this,  requested  the  governor 
for  an  armed  force  to  compel  his  ft-iars  to  obedience.  In  1804  Padre  Arvina 
was  deposed,  and  Padre  Placido  Sanz  made  superior  in  his  stead.  These 
quaiTcls  among  the  Dominican  friars  proved  very  injurious  to  the  missions  and 
Indians,  and  caused  much  scandal  in  the  two  Californias,  it  being  plain  that  the 
Dominicans  were  incompetent  to  manage  the  Indians  as  well  as  the  Jesuits  or 
Franciscans. 

In  1802  there  were  only  47  soldiers  in  the  Presidio  of  Loreto.  At  San  Jose 
del  Cabo  was  another  presidio,  with  a  small  number  of  soldiers. 

In  May,  1803,  Captain  Joso  Maria  Ruiz  reports  to  Governor  Arrillaga  the 
murder  of  Father  Eduardo  Surroca  by  the  Indians  of  Santo  Tomas,  and  in  June 
he  further  reports  that  he  had  severely  chastised  them. 

In  1806  the  Indians  of  San  Francisco  Borja  revolted,  and  gave  much 
trouble. 


74  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

In  1813  Father  Ramon  Lopez  was  made  superior  of  the  missions  of  Baja 
California. 

In  1826  Father  Tomas  Ahumada  was  superior  of  the  missions,  and  resided 
at  San  Jose  del  Cabo.    . 

In  1828  the  missions  were  becoming  very  poor,  the  friars  were  decreasing 
every  year,  and  Father  Domingo  Luna  was  made  only  provisional  vicar  of  the 
Lower  California  missions.  In  that  year  Padre  Luna  writes  to  Governor  Echean- 
dia,  touching  the  legality  of  his  missionaries  taking  the  oath  of  allegiance  to 
the  Mexican  Government,  demanded  of  the  missionaries  by  the  government  of 
the  two  Californias  in  1827. 

All  the  Dominican  and  Franciscan  friars  in  the  two  territories  were  then  na- 
tives of  Old  Spain. 

From  1843  to  1846  Father  Ignacio  Ramirez  de  Arrellanes  was  superior  of 
the  peninsular  missions.  In  October,  1848,  he  left,  as  a  political  refugee,  with 
the  American  troops,  and  acted  as  parish  curate  of  Monterey  until  1854,  when 
he  returned  to  Mexico. 

In  the  years  1818-1819  the  priests  inform  the  governor  they  have  received 
information  that  the  Americans  are  fitting  out  expeditions  in  Texas  and  New 
Mexico  to  take  the  Californias.  Great  excitement  about  this  time  concerning 
the  expected  visit  of  Bouchard,  the  Buenos  Ayres  privateer,  who  afterward 
plundered  Monterey  and  scared  Santa  Barbara  to  death. 

In  the  fall  of  1717  tremendous  hurricanes  and  water-spouts  visited  the 
southern  missions,  and  did  much  damage,  lasting  for  three  days.  In  1784 
great  hurricanes  again  occurred,  with  whirlwinds  of  sand.  In  1849-'50  similar 
phenomena  visited  the  country  and  did  much  damage.  In  1863-'64  the  great 
drought  was  simultaneous  in  both  Californias,  and  occasioned  heavy  losses  in 
stock  animals. 

In  1864  asphaltum  deposits  were  said  to  have  been  found  in  the  vicinities 
of  Viscaino  Bay. 

In  1863  one  J.  L.  Hopkins,  a  printer  from  San  Francisco,  estabhshed 
the  El  Jfexicano  newspaper  at  the  town  of  La  Paz — the  first  of  the  kind,  we 
believe. 

In  1858-59  Dr.  John  L.  Veitch,  of  Washoe,  visited  the  island  of  Cedros  and 
vicinities  on  a  scientific  expedition,  an  account  of  which  is  given  in  the  San 
Francisco  Hesperian  Magasine  of  1860-61. 

During  the  time  of  the  Spanish  sway  in  the  Californias,  the  government  and 
public  correspondence  was  brought  from  Mexico  to  Guaymas  once  a  month,  and 
passed  over  by  boat  to  Loreto,  from  whence  it  was  sent  on  horseback  through 
the  missions  of  the  peninsula  to  San  Diego,  Monterey,  and  San  Francisco.  Tliis 
was  commenced  about  1776,  and  ended  about  1816,  during  the  revolution. 
After  1835  it  was  sometimes  sent  by  way  of  the  Colorado,  but  dispatches  came 
generally  till  1846  by  sailing-vessels  from  Mazatlan  and  other  Mexican  ports. 

The  coral-fisheries  of  the  island  of  Sardinia  employed  290  small  vessels  and 
1,900  sailors  in  1866,  and  procured  not  less  than  $300,000  worth  of  this  beautiful 
aid  to  th6  jeweller's  art.  It  is  principally  used  for  children's  toys  and  making 
cameos,  breastpins,  seals  for  watches  and  rings,  and  a  variety  of  ornamental  pur- 
poses. There  is  said  to  be  an  abundance  of  this  substance  in  the  waters  of  the 
gulf  and  Magdalena  Bay. 

In  1863  a  large  number  of  pictures  and  church  valuables  were  brought  from 
Lower  California  to  San  Francisco  and  placed  on  exhibition  in  that  city.  Among 
these  were  said  to  be  several  originals  of  the  great  Spanish  painters  Velasquez 
and  Muiillo,  and  also  original  oil-portraits  of  Fathers  Kino,  Salvatierra,  and  Juni- 
pero  Serra,  these  last  three  being  from  the  church  of  Loreto.  Some  greedy 
speculators,  with  or  without  authority  from  the  Mexican  Government,  had  cleaned 
out  the  mission  churches  of  the  peninsula,  even  we  believe  as  high  up  as  San 
Vicente.     What  became  of  the  portraits  we  are  not  aware,  but  it  was  looked 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNL^.  75 

upon  by  all  right-minded  persons  as  nothiug  but  cliurcli  robbery  and  sacri- 
lege. 

"  Tlie  racific  Pearl  Company,  of  New  York  and  ranania,  iti  Januaiy,  1867, 
undertook  to  lisli  for  pearl  oysters  among  the  Pearl  Islands  of  I'anama  l>ay.  A 
snbmarine  boat  was  arranged,  capable  of  carrying  ten  or  twelve  men  at  one 
time,  who  can  work  under  the  water  for  many  hours,  and  so  constructed  that  it 
may  be  lowered  or  hoisted  at  a  moment's  notice :  when  the  boat  is  lowered,  it 
can  be  opened  at  the  bottom  by  means  of  two  trap-doors,  which  allows  a  space 
often  feet  square  under  each  trap-door  for  working  space  over  the  pearl-beds. 
This  enterprise  is  said  to  be  effectual  and  prosperous. 

A  recent  number  of  the  San  Francisco  Evening  Bulletin  gives  the  following 
summary  of  Lower  California  exports  for  the  year  1857,  which  appears  to  be 
taken  from  official  Mexican  sources,  and  must  be  greatly  under  the  true  amount 
of  exports : 

Values.  Values- 
Hides,  13,000  pieces $32,500     Salt  fish,  1,150  pounds $96 

Salt,  2,000  tons 12,000     Brazil-wood,  150  tons 3,000 

Cheese,  100,000  pounds 8,000     Silver  ores,  250  tons,  cost  price 5,600 

Brown  susar,  or  panoche,  29,000  lbs. .   11,000     Silver  metal,  2,000  marks 16,000 

Dried  figs,  32,500  pounds 1,300     Gold,  80  ounces 1,120 

Raisins,  28,600  pounds 2,200     Tortoise-shell,  300  pounds 6,000 

Soap,  2,610  pounds 2,610     Pearls,  value 21,750 

Wine,  54  barrels , 540     Mother  of  pearl  shell,  or  concha  nacar. 

Dried  dates,   20,000  pounds 1,200  495,700  lbs.  at  6  cts 29,742 

Oranges,  22,000  M 220 

Amounting  in  all  to  about  $155,000  in  value.  This  makes  no  note  of  such  valu- 
able material  as  whale-oil,  seal,  sea-elephant  and  sea-lion  oils,  and  that  class  of 
marine  products,  nor  of  pelts  of  fur  seal,  or  of  the  sea  otter,  or  the  numbers  of 
cattle,  mules,  and  horses  sold  in  Alta  California,  which  must  have  made  the  true 
values  of  exports  double.  In  1866  the  exports  of  mineral  ores  and  many  other 
articles  had  greatly  augmented,  and  large  amounts  of  whale  and  marine  animal 
oil,  with  sea-otter  pelts,  were  known,  beyond  cavil,  to  have  been  exported  out  of 
the  country,  and  the  shipments  of  Carmen  Island  salt  were  very  considerable. 
It  is  no  exaggerated  estimate  to  put  down  the  value  of  the  exports  of  Lower 
California  in  the  year  1866  at  one  million  of  dollars  ;  and  it  is  just  as  likel}',  from 
the  present  high  prices  of  oil,  it  would  run  to  two  millions  of  dollars. 

THE    GATES    TO    AN     OVERFLOWINa     COMMERCE IMMENSE     MINERAL     "WEALTH    OF 

THE    COLORADO    BASIN    AND    THE    COUNTRIES    OF    THE    GULF    OF   CALIFORNIA 

SUBLIME     SCENERY     OF     THE     GULF     LINES WONDERFUL     AGRICULTURAL     RE- 
SOURCES   OF    THIS    REGION — AREA    AND    POPULATION. 

As  we  approach  from  the  south  and  west,  open  the  portals  of  the  most  won- 
derful metalliferous  district  that  is  known  in  the  world.  To  the  right  lie  the 
green  and  fertile  shores  of  Sinaloa,  and  on  the  left  the  rugged  mountains  and 
castellated  turrets  of  the  California  peninsula.  As  we  sail  farther  on,  black, 
serrated  islands,  like  giant  guardians  of  these  seas,  cleave  the  transparent  ether, 
and  quickly  we  get  glimpses  of  both  shores  of  th*e  gulf  of  Cortez.  Now  com- 
mence, in  the  quiet  and  tranquil  daylights  and  twilights  of  the  seasons  of  winter 
and  spring,  the  most  sublime,  awful,  and  cnchantingly  magical  changes  and  vis- 
tas which  earth  opens  to  the  vision  of  mortal  men.  For  hundreds  of  miles  peak 
after  peak,  and  rock  after  rock,  and  island  after  island,  rise  sharp  and  straight  out 
of  the  depths  of  the  sea,  projected  against  a  vault  of  the  purest,  densest  azure, 
and  the  pinnacles  and  summits  of  earth's  upheavals  and  terrible  convulsions  seem 
to  touch  the  very  firmament  of  heaven,  llere  on  the  shores  of  Pimaria  lie  the 
desert  stretches  and  clear-cut,  solitary  mountain  masses,  fading  out  dimly  to  the 
east  till  absorbed  into  the  great  Cordillera  of  Mexico  ;  while  to  the  west  follow 


76  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

fold  after  fold  and  range  after  range  of  the  Sierras  of  California.  The  profound 
stillness  of  these  wondrous  solitudes  of  Nature  is,  as  it  were,  to  new  eyes  the 
entrance  to  another  world,  and  different  from  any  other  part  of  our  beggarly 
little  planet ;  the  mystical  depths  of  man's  imagination  are  exalted  to  the  high- 
est pitch,  and  the  exorcisms  of  a  magic  enchantery  seem  to  bewilder  the  reason- 
ing powers  of  his  intellect,  and,  in  these  awful  visions  of  actual  Nature  and  her 
deep,  hidden  powers  and  terrific  forces,  he  feels  the  littleness  of  his  existence. 
As  the  shades  of  night  gather,  the  whole  constellations  of  the  heavens  burst  at 
once  into  stellar  refulgence,  and  each  particular  great  body  in  space  projects  it- 
self round,  distinct,  and  defined,  appearing  like  inferior  moons,  and  enabling 
human  eyes  to  define  objects  exactly  at  gTcat  distances,  even  in  some  to 
read  with  precision.  To  the  west,  in  the  track  of  Sol,  are  seen  the  mild,  pellucid 
splendors  of  the  zodiacal  light,  stretching  in  an  immense  trail  from  the  horizon 
to  the  zenith  like  the  faint  outlines  of  the  shrouds  of  a  comet,  and  seeming  as 
if  making  some  effulgent  pathway  from  the  abodes  of  heaven  to  guide  celestial 
messengers  to  the  earth.  But  now,  under  the  edges  of  the  eastern  firmament, 
among  the  calm,  cool  waves,  and  veiling  among  the  island-crags  or  continental 
summits,  like  some  coy  maiden  to  meet  her  lover,  rises  cut  of  the  depths  Luna 
with  her  silvery  face  wrapped  in  smiles  and  scattering  the  sombre  shades  of 
darkness  to  their  hidden  caves,  and  making  all  nature  dance  with  joy.  She 
seems  to  rise  by  visible,  movable,  tangible  motion,  as  if  sailing  on  a  tranquil 
ocean,  and,  as  constellation  after  constellation  is  reached,  dimming  their  lustres 
and  absorbing  their  splendors,  passing  them  like  some  messenger  bound  on  mo- 
mentous purport.  Such  are  the  effects  of  her  presence,  that  all  Nature  becomes, 
as  it  were,  bewitched  to  an  entrancing  tranquillity,  and  the  heats  of  earth's  at- 
mospheres, cooled  to  the  most  refined  enjoyments  experienced  in  human  sensa- 
tions, the  soul  of  man  is  thrilled  to  the  utmost  depths  of  its  hidden  faculties. 

As  the  sun  is  rising  into  day,  or  as  his  rays  are  declining  into  night,  the 
most  beautiful  and  changing  colors  of  green,  red,  purple,  gold,  blue,  and  black, 
define  themselves  along  the  mountain-heights,  and  the  colors  of  the  rainbow 
mingle,  transform,  and  commingle,  make,  and  dissolve,  and  beautify  or  deform 
the  strange  lands  and  rugged  hills  and  crags  as  in  the  phantasms  of  a  wondrous 
dream.  The  msot  absolute,  profound,  and  overpowering  silence  comes  over  the 
face  of  Nature  as  the  king  of  day  retires,  and  the  spirit  of  man  is  involuntarily 
hushed  into  stillness.  On  the  firing  of  artillery  or  nnisketry,  rock  after  rock, 
and  island  after  island  take  up  the  sound,  and  the  hollows,  the  shores,  and  the 
peaks,  catching  the  echoes,  reverberate,  in  solemn  and  swelling  voices,  their  pro- 
tests at  the  puny  efforts  of  man's  intrusion  into  this  grand  arcana  of  earth's 
wonders  and  mysteries. 

For  hundreds  of  leagues  on  every  hand,  within  the  domains  of  these  shores, 
are  found  lodes,  and  veins,  and  masses  of  pure  copper,  iron,  lead,  mercury,  tin, 
gold,  silver,  soda,  salt,  sulphur,  borax,  alum,  and  every  metal  or  mineral  sub- 
stance known  in  the  avarice  or  utility  of  man,  and  from  which  great  treasures 
liave  not  only  been  drawn  for  a  hundred  years,  but  from  which  now  greater  and 
more  plenteous  riches  are  being  yearly  developed.  The  wonderful,  undoubted, 
and  inexhaustible  wealth  of  iijinerals  in  the  countries  which  are  drained  by  the 
affluents  to  the  Gulf  of  California  must,  before  many  years,  make  it  the  centre 
of  a  commerce  of  extraordinary  developments,  destined  to  have  the  most  pene- 
trating influence  on  the  events  of  those  regions  which  are  laved  by  the  waters 
of  the  great  Pacific  Ocean,  and  entirely  change  the  present  aspect  of  affairs. 

But  it  is  not  only  in  the  caves  and  caverns  of  the  earth  that  its  wealth  is 
secreted.  On  the  contrary,  the  prolific  and  exuberant  soils  of  these  countries 
produce  not  only  all  the  cereals,  and  fruits,  and  vegetables  of  such  countries  as 
Syria,  Egypt,  Greece,  Italy,  Spain,  and  France,  but  the  valuable  tropical  produc- 
tions of  sugar,  coffee,  dyewoods,  rice,  indigo,  cotton,  date-palms,  cocoa-palms, 
the  orange,  lemon,  plantain,  and  thousands  of  other  plants  too  tedious  to  name. 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  77 

The  besl  of  pastures  for  the  domesticated  animals  also  abound  in  the  momitaiu 
valleys  and  hollows,  sufficient  to  maintain  them  l)y  the  million  ;  and  the  fifr, 
olive,  c;rape,  almond,  date-palm,  and  quince  thrive  quicker,  easier,  and  yield 
prompter  and  more  sweet  and  abundant  than  in  any  other  part  of  North  America. 

In  superficially  glancing  at  these  resources,  the  mind  is  irresistibly  drawn  to 
the  conclusion  that,  on  these  now  scarcely  populated  but  accessible  sea  lines, 
must  before  many  years  rise,  not  onljToitc  mighty  centre  of  stirring  comincrce, 
but  many  other  populous  marts  and  cities  of  active  traffic.  The  land  is  empty  of 
men,  but  other  lands  arc  not  far  away  where  men  and  women  sw^arm,  and  crowd, 
and  hunger,  and  starve  by  the  million  :  their  babes  are  without  food  and  their 
old  age  is  beggary,  tam  in  e,  and  hungry  want;  the  very  waters  are  the  habitations 
and  birthplaces  of  millions  of  men  whom  earth  rejects  of  sustenance  and  loathes 
to  serve  them.  Suck  are  tlie  strange  aspects  of  countries  60  days'  distance  from 
each  otlier.  But  henceforth  man  shall  move  as  far  in  one  lunation  as  he  did  in 
twenty  lunations  of  the  past,  and  human  hearts  everywhere  be  quickened  into  more 
cheerful  life,  there  being  abundance  and  to  spare  in  all  these  wondrous  lands. 

The  following  outline  in  round  figures  will  serve  as  a  guide  to  a  better  un- 
derstanding of  the  status  of  the  States  and  Territories  which  are  served  with 
commerce  from  the  shipping  points  of  the  Gulf  of  California,  in  the  year 
1867: 

lu  Mexico. — Sonora 174,000  square  miles population 130,000 

Sinaloa 55,000  "  "     "         150,000 

Lower  California. 200,000  "  "  ....  "  ....   26,000 

Dui-ango 54,000  "  "     «'  ....  100,000 

Jalisco 70,000  "  "     "  ....680,000 

Chiliuahua 108,000  "  "     "        148,000 

Zacatecas 20,000  "  "     "        275,000 

In  the  United  States. — Arizona 126,000  "  "  ....  "        12^000 

Utah 106,000  "  '■     "  ....   70,000 

Portions  of  the  States  of  California,  Nevada, 

and  New  Mexico,  say ..100,000  "  "     "  ....60.000. 

That  is  to  say,  in  the  foregoing  Mexican  confines  there  are,  say,  680,000 
square  miles,  AAath  a  population  of  not  less  than  1,670,000  souls. 

In  the  confines  of  the  United  States  domain,  there  are,  say,  332,000  square 
miles,  with  a  population  of  not  less  than  60,000  souls. 

The  present  export  values  of  the  mineral-  and  other  products  of  all  this 
region  may  be  set  down  as  within  620,000,000,  and  the  values  of  the  imports 
at  the  estimate  of  $15,000,000.  If  at  entire  peace  from  savage  hordes  and 
from  civil  wars,  in  one  year's  time  these  values  would  undoubtedly  double,  and 
in  10  years  after  astonish  the  world  by  their  development. 


78  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT   AND 


THE   LOWER   CALIFORNIA   COMPANY. 

The  Lower  California  Company  is  organized  upon  the  basis  of  a  grant  made 
by  the  Republican  Government  of  Mexico,  the  terms  of  which  comprehend  all 
that  portion  of  the  peninsula  of  Lower  California  embraced  within  the  parallels 
of  24°  20'  and  31°  north  latitude,  and  lying  between  the  Gulf  of  California  and 
the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  grant,  likewise,  comprehends  both  coasts  of  the  penin- 
sula ;  comprising  altogether,  the  vast  area  of  46^00  square  miles.  Within  this 
area  only  scanty  properties  ever  have  been  settled  by  the  natives ;  while  the 
few  and  limited  grants  previously  made  within  it,  by  the  Mexican  Government, 
have  almost,  withoiit  exception,  been  vacated  for  non-fulfilment,  by  a  subse- 
quent decree  of  March  14,  1861. 

This  grant  was  originally  made  to  certain  wealthy  and  influential  American 
citizens  in  Upper  California,  through  Jacob  P.  Leese,  of  San  Francisco;  but 
those  parties  having  failed  to  fulfil  its  conditions  within  the  i^eriod  prescribed 
to  them,  the  Mexican  Government,  by  decree  of  August  4,  1866,  under  the 
hand  of  its  President,  Benito  Juarez,  permitted  the  said  grant  to  be  transferred 
to  the  Lower  California  Company.  This  transfer  was  duly  made  at  the  Mexi- 
can legation  in  Washington,  on  the  4th  May,  1866,  and  ratified  by  President 
Juarez  in  the  following  August.  In  evidence  thereof,  a  duly-authenticated 
copy  of  said  gratit,  and  memoranda  of  such  transfer  and  conveyance,  certified 
by  the  Mexican  minister,  have  been  filed  in  the  oflice  of  the  Secretary  of  State 
of  the  United  States,  in  order  that  the  American  Government  may  have  oflScial 
notice  thereof;  and  to  the  end  that,  should  the  present  republican  and  acknowl- 
edged Government  of  Mexico  be  supplanted  by  another,  and  possibly  a  hostile 
government,  the  Company  may  rightfully  claim  of  the  Government  of  the 
United  States  that  it  should  protect  this  legitimately  acquired  grant  to  its 
American  proprietors,  and  make  its  recognition  by  such  new  government  a 
"  condition  precedent "  to  the  official  recognition  of  said  new  government,  by 
the  Government  of  the  United  States.  The  overthrow  of  the  Archduke  Maxi- 
milian, however,  has  disposed  finally  of  any  apprehensions  which  may  tem- 
porarily have  existed  as  to  the  stability  and  safety  of  the  grant ;  and  the  act  of 
the  Government  of  Mexico,  which  made  the  grant  (before  the  arrival  of  said 
archduke  in  Mexico),  and  which  now  reaffirms  it,  since  he  and  his  pretensions 
have  been  disposed  of,  renders  the  title  a  perfect  and  complete  finality. 

By  reference  to  the  grant,  a  copy  of  which  accompanies  this  circular,  it  will 
be  seen  that  it  confers  upon  the  Company  full  powers  of  municipal  administra- 
tion, subject  only  to  the  general  laws  of  Mexico.  It  likewise  grants  immediate 
citizenship  to  the  Company's  colonists,  exemption  to  those  colonists  from  mili- 
tary services,  remission  of  taxes  upon  wearing-apparel,  provisions,  mining-tools, 
and  other  of  their  imports — privileges  which  have  never  been  equalled  for 
liberality,  in  any  grant  made  by  a  government  to  foreign  citizens,  in  the  history 
of  the  world.  Such  was  the  opinion  of  the  Uon.  Caleb  Gushing,  whom  the  Com- 
pany legally  consulted  at  the  time  of  their  acquisition  of  the  grant ;  while  the 
validity  of  the  grant  stands  further  certified  to,  by  Hon.  Robert  J.  Walker,  who 
also  was  professionally  consulted  in  the  premises. 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNLV.  70 

ITpontlic  basis  of  this  vast  property,  with  its  franchises  and  its  privileges,  the 
Company,  through  its  trustees,  applied  for  hist  winter,  and  obtained,  a  charter  from 
tlie  State  of  New  York,  which  vests  in  the  trustees  of  tlie  Company  the  power 

"  Ofholdinjr,  leasing,  and  improving  lands  in  Lower  California,  and  of  obtaining  there- 
from all  minerals  and  other  valuable  substances,  whether  by  working  or  mining,  or  dispos- 
ing of  privileges  to  work  or  mine  *  *  *  and  to  dispose  of  the  proceeds  of  all  such 
lands,  mines,  and  works  as  it  may  deem  proper.  »  *  «  The  said  Company  shall  also 
have  power  to  establish  agencies  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  and  forwarding  to  Lower 
California  emigrants  and  other  persons,  and  of  owning  and  managing  such  ships  and  ves- 
sels as  it  may  deem  necessary  for  that  purpose  ;  and  to  own  and  carry  on  such  transporta- 
tion, on  inland  waters,  as  may  be  necessary  for  its  p\n-ppses  in  Lower  California ;  or  for  the 
purpose  of  encouraging  regular  means  of  communicatioQ  between  any  part  of  the  United 
States  and  any  part  of  Lower  California." 

Tinder  this  charter,  which  does  not  prescribe  any  limit  as  to  capital,  the 
Company  fixed  its  capital  stock  at  $25,000,000  (to  be  issued  in  shares  of  $100 
each),  and  organized  on  the  9th  July,  1867,  by  electing  Wm.  G.  Fargo,  presi- 
dent; Hon.  John  A.  Logan,  vice-president;  Wm.  R.  Travers,  treasurer ;  and 
George  "Wilkes,  Secretary.  It  likewise  formed  the  following  board  of  directors : 
C  K.  Garrison,  August  Belmont,  Leonard  W.  Jerome,  General  B.  F.  Butler, 
Wm.  R.  Travers,  George  Wilkes,  Wm.  G.  Fargo,  David  Crawford,  Hon.  John 
A.  Griswold,  General  John  A.  Logan,  and  Richard  Schell. 

General  Logan  was  chosen  by  the  board  to  be  the  "  governor  of  the  Com- 
pany and  superintendent  of  colonization,"  which  election,  and  his  acceptance 
of  the  same,  completed  the  organization  of  the  Company. 

In  addition  to  the  above-named  officers  of  the  Conipany,  the  other  members 
and  holders  of  original  interests  in  the  grant  rank  among  our  wealthiest  and 
most  influential  citizens,  to  wit :  Hon.  Caleb  Cushing,  Hon.  John  A.  Griswold, 
John  R.  Garland,  S.  L.  M.  Barlow,  Edwards  S.  Sanford,  John  Abderson,  Ben. 
HoUaday,  Francis  Morris,  H.  C.  Stirason,  George  A.  Osgood,  John  B.  Davidson, 
etc.,  etc.,  etc. 

It  is  the  intention  of  the  Company,  in  whose  behalf  extensive  and  detailed 
sur\'eys  have  been  and  are  being  made  of  the  territory  covered  by  the  grant,  to 
commence  its  purposes  of  colonization  some  time  in  December  next,  at  which 
time  the  headquarters  of  its  superintendency  in  Lower  California  will  be  made 
known,  and  the  surveys  will  be  sufficiently  defined  for  the  distribution  of  land 
and  mining  interests. 

The  climate  of  the  peninsula  of  Lower  California,  is  described  by  all  travel- 
lers as  being  unsurpassed  for  its  delicious  softness,  without  being  sulyect  to 
any  extremities  of  temperature.  Its  products,  according  to  the  official  data  of 
1857,  arc  wine,  hides,  salt,  cheese,  sugar,  dried  meats,  figs,  raisins,  dates, 
oranges,  salted  fish.  Brazil-wood,  gold,  silver,  and  copper  ores,  gold  and  silver, 
iu  marks  and  ounces,  pearls,  and  mother  of  pearl,  etc. ;  while  portions  of  its 
lands  have  recently  been  found  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  tobacco, 
opium,  and  cotton. 

It  is  believed  that,  upon  proper  development,  the  mines  of  Lower  California 
will  not  be  found  inferior  to  those  of  any  other  portions  of  the  continent,  while 
its  copper  and  salt  deposits  are  known  to  be  among  the  richest  in  the  world. 
L'pon  some  of  its  islands  the  new  and  valuable  kind  of  iron,  which  is  found  in 
grains,  and  which  is  known  to  commerce  as  the  titaniferous  iron  ore,  has  been 
discovered  in  abundance. 

Its  fisheries  are  unequalled  in  any  portion  of  the  Northwest  coast.  This 
article  of  its  commerce  ranges  from  whales  and  seals  to  the  pearl  oyster ;  and  in 
relation  to  the  latter,  the  eastern,  or  gulf,  coast  of  the  peninsula  has  always 
been  the  great  pearl-fishery  of  past  and  present  history.  The  prospect  of  a 
new  mode  of  conducting  this  fishery  by  steam,  instead  of  by  native  divers  as 
heretofore,  is  likely  to  give  it  very  great  importance,  and  to  prove  highly 
remunerative,  perhaps,  in  the  article  of  mother  of  pearl  alone,  which  has  of  late 


80  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AXD 

years  become  one  of  the  most  liiglil^'-prized  elements  of  elegant  ornament  and 
household  furniture.  Projects  are  already  formed  to  utilize  the  other  fisheries 
of  the  peninsula,  by  the  means  of  Chinese  liibor,  and  with  the  salt  in  such  pro- 
fusion as  it  is  found  in-  several  of  the  islands,  there  is  but  little  doubt  the  fish- 
eries of  Lower  California  will  compete  with  any  other  known  fisheries  on  favor- 
able terms.  The  great  advantages  of  most  of  those  productions  and  oppor- 
tunities is,  that  they  lie  directly  in  the  new  high-road  of  commerce  ;  while  the 
peninsula  itself  affords  fIie~short  cut  by  which  the  southern  interoceanic  rail- 
Avay  can  reach  the  Pacific  coast,  and  take  up  the  China  and  the  San  Francisco 
trade. 

Finally,  the  Company  have  determined  to  offer  half  of  their  stock  for  sale 
at  15  per  cent,  on  the  par  value,  payable,  two  and  a  half  per  cent,  in  cash  on 
the  date  of  subscription  ;  two  and  a  half  per  cent,  on  the  10th  of  October  fol- 
lowing; five  per  cent,  on  the  10th  of  February,  1868,  and  the  remaining  five 
on  the  10th  of  August,  1868.  It  is  proper  to  state  in  this  connection,  that 
there  are  negotiations  now  going  on  with  the  Mexican  Government,  which  are 
likely  to  vastly  enlarge  the  domain  of  the  Company,  and  greatly  increase  the 
■value  of  its  property.  The  present  ten-itory, however,  taken  in  connection  with 
its  commanding  position  on  the  Northwest  coast,  is  large  enough  to  yield,  un- 
der judicious  management,  ample  returns  on  any  investments  that  may  be 
made,  on  the  terms  offered  by  the  Company. 

The  books  of  the  Company  Avill  be  opened  and  subscriptions  received,  at  the 
office  of  the  Company,  No.  18  AVilliam  Street,  in  the  city  of  New  York,  on  the 
30th  July,  inst. 


OFFICE  LOWEE  CALIFORNIA  COMPANY, 
New  Yoek,  July  30, 1S67. 


GEO.  WILKES,   Secretarrj. 


GRANT. 

Saltillo,  March  30, 1S64. 

The  Citizen  Jos6  M.  Iglesias,  Minister  of  Fomento  of  the  Mexican  Republic,  with  the  pre- 
vious express  direction  of  the  citizen,  the  Constitutional  President  of  the  same,  and  Jacob 
P.  Leese,  a  citizen  of  the  United  States  of  America,  in  the  name  of  the  partners  who  com- 
pose the  Company  of  Colonization  of  Lower  California,  have  agreed  to  the  following  clauses 
for  the  colonization  of  the  vacant  lands  of  the  peninsula,  from  31  degrees  of  latitude  north 
in  the  direction  of  the  south  to  24  degrees  and  20  minutes  of  latitude : 

1st.  The  "  cmpresarios "  (managers)  will  colonize  the  respective  vacant  lands  of  that 
tract,  respecting  the  property  previously  acquired  by  Mexican  citizens  by  birth,  whether  they 
have  or  not  the  confirmation  for  their  titles,  the  real  corporeal  occupation  or  quasi  occupa- 
tion of  the  lands  which  they  may  claim  being  sufficient  to  give  them  preference.  This  being 
understood  with  regard  to  the  property  granted  before  the  Government  complied  with  this 
petition,  but  not  so  with  the  occupations  that  might  be  made  afterward,  with  fraud  to  the 
prejudice  of  the  same. 

2d.  The  lands  comprehended  between  the  twenty-seventh  degree  and  the  thirty-first 
of  latitude  are  granted  in  all  their  extent  for  the  claimed  colony,  reserving  therein  only  one- 
fourth  part  for  Mexican  citizens  by  birth  who  might  solicit  the  property  thereof  These  will 
also  have  one-fourth  part  in  the  lots  in  all  and  each  of  the  new  towns  which  might  be  founded 
by  the  colonists. 

3d.  All  the  minerals,  of  whatsoever  class,  that  may  be  found  in  the  granted  vacant  lands, 
will  be  worked  by  the  colonists  in  accordance  with  the  provisions  of  the  ordinances  and  laws 
in  force  in  the  Republic  in  reference  to  mining  operations. 

4th.  In  relation  to  the  fishery  of  whales  and  seals  in  all  the  extent  of  the  coast  of  the 
peninsula,  the  colonists  will  subject  themselves  likewise  to  the  provisions  of  the  respective 
laws  in  the  matter.  , 

5th.  Every  "  sitio  de  ganado  mayor  "  (square  league)  that  shall  be  occupied  by  the  Com- 
pany of  Colonization  will  be  paid  for  at  the  rate  of  "one-third  part  less  than  the  price  of  the 
tariff,  as  a  mean  term  among  the  Imd,  the  good,  and  the  best.     The  fourth  part  that  may 
correspond  to  the  Mexican  citizens  by  birth,  will  be  paid  for  by  them  on  their  own  account 
6th.  Of  each  one  of  the  towns  that  may  be  in  the  progress  of  being  founded,  there  will  be 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  81 

made  a  plan  on  account  of  tlic  "  eniprcsarios,"  of  which  a  copy  will  bo  forwarded  to  the 
oIKcc  of  the  Minister  of  Fonienlo,  and  another  to  the  Government  of  the  Territory  of  Lower 
California,  for  tlic  cognizance  thereof. 

7th.  Within  the  term  of  five  years,  reciconcd  from  the  day  of  the  approval  of  this  project 
of  colonization,  the  "empresarios"  will  introduce  in  the  Territory  two  hundred  colonizing 
families  at  least. 

8th.  The  salt-works  of  the  "  Ojo  de  Liebre,"  and  "San  Qtiintin,"  which  at  present  are 
rented  by  the  Government,  when  the  existing  contract  shall  have  exi)ired  will  be  rented  to 
said  colony  for  the  term  of  twenty  years,  with  the  condition  that  there  will  be  paid  to  Gov- 
ernment twenty  rcales  per  ton  of  salt  that  shall  be  exported  from  the  salt-works  aforesaid. 

!>tli.  The  colonists  shall  enjoy  liljcrty  of  religious  worship,  and  the  rights  and  guaranties 
M-hich  the  political  Constitution  of  the  Ilepublic  of  1857  has  declared  as  the  rights  of  man. 

10th.  The  colonists  sliall  be  independent  in  their  municipal  administration,  in  virtue  of 
which  they  will  be  empowered  to  freely  frame  all  the  institutions  they  may  consider  proper 
for  the  development  of  their  intelligence,  and  of  their  morals  and  good  maimers  ;  to  make 
regulations  for  the  government  of  their  respective  municipalities,  provided  they  do  not  con- 
flict with  the  Constitution  and  general  laws  of  the  Republic  ;  to  freely  elect  their  authorities ; 
establisli  municipal  taxes,  and  jjromote  and  execute  all  the  material  improvements  proper  to 
the  welfare  of  the  colonies,  simply  giving  information  of  all  to  the  Political  Chief  of  the 
Territory,  and  subjecting  themselves  to  the  obedience  of  the  authority  thereof,  in  all  those 
things  wherein  it  might  be  necessary  to  apply  thereto,  and  ask  relief  for  any  of  the  parties. 

11th.  As  soon  as  the  colonists  shall  be  established  in  any  part  of  the  Territory,  they  will 
bs  considered  as  Mexican  citizens,  with  the  same  rights  and  obligations  as  Jlexican  citizens 
by  birth,  and  only  with  the  temporary  exemptions  which  are  granted  to  them  to  insure  the 
foundation  of  the  colonies. 

12th.  All  the  effects  of  wcaring-a])parol ;  all  classes  of  iron  tools  that  might  be  intro- 
duced for  the  exclusive  use  of  the  colonies,  as  well  as  all  the  provisions  and  things  necessary 
to  preserve  life,  shall  be  free  from  duties  for  the  term  of  ten  years. 

13th.  For  an  equal  period  of  time  shall  the  colonists  be  exempt  from  paying  for  all 
classes  of  imposts  and  taxes,  except  the  municipal  contributions  which  they  themselves  may 
establish. 

14th.  The  colonists  are  exempt  for  five  years  from  service  in  the  national  army ;  but  af- 
ter that  time,  they  will  render  their  services  therein,  like  all  the  other  Mexican  citizens,  with 
entire  subjection  to  the  provisions  of  tlie  recruiting  laws.  The  said  colonists  will  be  under 
the  obligation  of  serving  in  the  National  Guard  of  each  one  of  the  towns  they  may  establish, 
with  the  view  of  keeping  order  in  them. 

lath.  Twenty  years  after  the  foundations  of  the  colonics,  the  lands  which  are  granted  to 
the  "  empresarios  "  must  be  divided  in  such  a  manner  that  each  colonist  will  not  possess 
more  than  three  square  leagues. 

IGth.  The  "  empresario  "  will  advance  the  sum  of  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  on  ac- 
count of  the  price  of  the  lands  they  are  to  colonize,  delivering,  at  the  term  of  one  hundred 
and  twenty  days  after  signing  this  agreement,  the  said  sum  of  Mexican  gold  in  San  Francisco, 
California,  to  the  Mexican  consul  at  that  port,  or  to  the  person  whom  the  Supreme  Govern- 
ment may  opportunely  designate. 

17th.  If  the  "  empresarios"  should  not  fulfil  some  or  any  of  the  conditions  stipulated  in 
the  time  and  form  prescribed,  the  concession  shall  be  null  and  void,  and  of  no  effect;  even 
though  they  had  delivered  the  sum  advanced  which  is  spoken  of  in  the  preceding  article,  in 
which  case  they  will  be  indemnified  with  five  hundred  square  leagues  (sitios  de  ganado 
mayor)  between  the  twenty-seventh  and  thirty-first  degrees  of  latitude,  with  the  particular 
understanding  that  at  the  term  of  twenty  years  from  the  nullification  of  this  contract,  none 
of  the  "empresarios"  will  be  able  to  hold  more  than  three  leagues  in  property,  each  of  them 
being  authorized  to  sell,  witiiin  this  term  of  twenty  years,  all  the  lands  that  may  properly 
appertain  to  them,  but  with  the  condition  of  not  giving  more  than  three  "sitios  de  ganado 
mayor  "  to  one  sole  person. 

18th.  Within  four  months  from  the  signing  of  this  agreement,  the  representative  of  the 
Colonizing  Company  of  Lower  California  shall  present  liimself  to  ratify  and  accejjt,  in  the 
name  of  said  Company,  all  and  each  one  of  the  clauses  contained  in  the  said  agreement,  in 
order  that  from  that  time  it  may  be  ol)ligatory  on  the  part  of  the  Company,  in  the  name  of 
which  Mr.  Lecse  has  made  the  said  agreement. 

In  due  witness  wliereof,  we  sign  the  present  agreement,  in  duplicate,  at  the  city  of  Sal- 
tillo,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Coahuila,  on  the  thirtieth  day  of  the  month,  one  thousand 
eight  hundred  and  sixty-four. 

(Signed)  JOSE  M.  IGLESIAS. 

(Signed)  JACOB  P.  LEESE. 


82  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 


EXPLOEATION  OF  LOWER  CALIFORNIA. 

J.  Ross  Browne,  Esq.  : 

Dear  Sir, — Herewith  I  submit  my  report  of  the  peninsula  of  Lower  California,  made  by 
my  division  of  the  party  organized  by  you,  and  of  which  you  were  director-in-chief,  during 
the  earlier  portions  of  this  year. 

I  have  thought  it  best  to  give  a  continuous  narrative  of  the  whole  route  of  the  party, 
from  the  first  landing  at  Cape  San  Lucas  to  the  end  of  the  journey  at  San  Diego,  rather 
than  to  confine  myself  strictly  to  the  territory  included  in  the  grant  to  the  New  York  Com- 
pany.    The  reasons  are  obvious.     The  grant  covers  nearly  all  the  peninsula:  any  material - 
interests  which  exist  in  one  part  of  the  territory  must  necessarily  affect,  to  a  greater  or  less      ] 
extent,  the  adjoining  regions ;  and,  finally,  there  is  perhaps  no  part  of  North  America  that     /' 
has  been,  up  to  the  present  time,  a  more  complete  icrra  incor/nHa  to  the  outside  world  than 
the  peninsula  of  Lower  California.     We  landed  at  Cape  San  Lucas,  January  5th,  and  pro- 
ceeded to  the  little  mining  town  of  Triunfo,  where  we  procured  most  of  our  outfit,  and  after 
making  several  excursions,  went  to  Magdalena  Baj'.      Here  we  separated,  and  I,  taking 
charge  of  the  party,  started  northward,  accompanied  by  Dr.  Fred  von  Lohr,  as  topographer, 
together  with  a  cook  and  two  Mexicans.     We  reached  San  Diego  on  the  20th  of  April,  hav- 
ing travelled  over  eighteen  hundred  miles,  crossing  the  peninsula  ten  times,  and  visiting 
almost  every  point  of  interest  in  the  territory. 

I  remain,  very  respecti'ullv,  your  obedient  servant, 

WM.  M.  GABB. 

San  Feancisco,  Cal.,  May,  1867. 

Our  party  went  aboard  of  the  steamer  Continental  on  the  day  after  Christmas,  186G; 
but,  on  account  of  a  storm  raging  outside,  we  did  not  le.ave  the  harbor  until  about  noon  of 
the  next  day.  After  an  uncomfortable  passage  of  eight  days,  in  rain,  wind,  and  fog,  we 
came  in  sight  of  Cape  San  Lucas,  on  the  morning  of  January  5th. 

We  were  landed  on  the  beach  after  a  delay  of  an  hour,  and  proceeded  to  the  house  of 
Captain  Ritchie,  an  old  Englishman,  who  has  lived  here  for  ibrty  years.  The  poor  old  man 
was  in  great  tribulation.  A  party  of  American  filibusters,  with  a  commission  from  Corona, 
one  of  the  Mexican  generals,  had  possession  of  the  premises  and-  were  making  themselves 
very  much  at  home.  Their  insolence  and  abuse  had  driven  away  the  native  servants,  and 
poor  old  Ritchie  hardly  knew  what  to  do.  We  spent  an  hour  or  two  waiting  for  animals  to 
take  us  into  the  interior,  and  devoted  most  of  the  time  to  an  examination  of  the  vicinity. 

The  extreme  point  of  Cape  San  Lucas  is  a  mass  of  naked  granite  rocks,  worn  by  the 
waves  and  weather  into  a  variety  of  fantastic  forms.  It  is  said  that  this  jilace  gave  the  name 
to  California — the  rocks  in  the  heat  and  glare  of  a  midsummer  sun  are  doubtless  as  hot  as  a 
furnace,  and  the  name  of  Calida  foriiax  is  not  inappropriate. 

The  country,  from  the  broad  sandy  beach  back  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  is  desolate  in 
the  extreme. 

Rolling  groimd,  covered  with  cacti  of  a  dozen  species,  so  thick  as  almost  to  hide  any 
other  vegetation,  rising  in  the  distance  to  the  high  mountain-chain  of  San  Lazaro,  does  not 
promise  to  the  traveller  a  very  pleasant  picture  of  what  he  is  to  meet  in  the  interior.  A 
closer  examination  of  the  country  shows,  however,  that  there  are  many  pretty  little  valleys 
in  which  cactus  is  scarce,  and  grass  abundant,  so  that  even  in  the  most  desert  portions  of  the 
country  more  or  less  food  can  be  found  for  animals. 

Having  procured  a  sufficiency  of  saddle-horses  and  mules  for  our  party,  we  started  about 
noon  for  San  Jos(5  del  Cabo,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Brooks  and  Mr.  Dubois  of  the  Triunfo 
mines. 

Oiu-  ride  was  mostly  close  to  the  beach,  over  the  rolling  grounds  at  the  base  of  the  hills. 
The  soil  was  unusually  gravelly,  and  su|)i)orted  an  abundant  growth  of  cactus,  witli  numerous 
shrubby  plants  new  to  us.  Li  places,  there  were  a  few  acres  of  grass,  and  near  two  or  three 
springs  and  streamlets  were  ranchilos  or  little  huts  of  the  herders  who  take  care  of  a  few 
cattle  that  roam  over  the  siirTOliniling  hills,  and  which,  from  their  sleek,  glossy  appearance, 
seemed  to  pick  up  a  good  living  among  the  thickets  of  thorns  and  briers. 

San  Jose,  twentv-four  miles  from  the  cape,  is  a  little  village  of  whitewashed  adobe-housea 
with  ^al  roofs,  most  of  the  principal  houses  being  built  around  an  elongated  plaza.  A  scat- 
tering suburb  of  tumble-down  shanties,  thatched  with  palm-leaves,  serves  to  add  to  the  pic- 


e^ 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  83 


X{  turcsque  beauty  of  the  place,  rather  than  to  injure  it  by  tlieir  s(|ualor.  The  population  is 
variously  estimated  at  from  a  thousand  to  tifteen  hundred,  includini;  a  few  foreigners,  among 
I  whom  our  fellow-countryman,  5Ir.  Gillespie,  stands  preeminent.  Mr.  (iillespic,  who  acts  as 
'  our  consular  agent  and  sub-agent  of  the  ul)i(iuitous  Wclls-Fargo  Express  Company,  is  one 
of  tho  most  flourishing  and  prosperous  foreigners  on  the  peninsula.  He  received  us  on  our 
arrival,  and  treated  us  with  great  hospitality.  Owing  to  the  deficiency  of  mules,  the  day  be- 
fore, we  were  obliged  to  leave  our  baggage  under  the  care  of  the  cook  at  the  cape,  until 
means  of  transportation  could  be  found.  They  did  not  arrive  until  about  the  middle  of  the 
morning,  and  all  hands  were  very  hungry,  after  an  unexpected  fast  of  nearly  twenty-four 
houi'S.  After  a  delay  of  several  hours,  we  left  San  Jose,  and  rode  up  the  beautiful  valley  of 
the  same  name,  about  twelve  miles,  to  Santa  Anita.  A  little  incident  that  transpired  while 
we  were  saddling,  our  horses  illustrates  so  well  the  grasping  propensity  of  these  people,  that 
it  is  worth  recording.  It  shows  that  sharp  practices  are  not  confined  to  Yankees  and 
Scotchmen : 

A  little  fellow,  about  ten  years  of  age,  whose  costume  consisted  of  a  straw-hat,  the  crown 
of  which  seemed  inclined  to  part  company  with  the  brim,  a  shirt  that  was  one  only  in  name, 
and  a  pair  of  pantaloons  that  "  had  seen  better  days,"  was  engaged  to  take  our  animals  to 
the  pasture  and  bring  them  back  when  wanted.  For  this  service  the  sum  of  dm  reales, 
twenty-five  cents,  had  been  stipulated.  After  the  horses  and  mules  had  been  delivered,  he 
went  not  only  to  every  member  of  the  party,  but  even  to  Mr.  Gillespie,  and  thus  secured  his 
payment  half  a  dozen  times  over.  Not  satisfied  with  his  success  in  financiering,  he  thought 
he  could  get  a  little  more,  and  represented  that  as  he  was  riding  one  of  the  horses  bare- 
backed, he  had  been  thrown,  pointing  to  one  of  the  many  holes  in  his  pantaloons  as  the  re- 
sult, and  wanted  dos  rcalcs  more,  to  pay  damages  and  heal  his  wounded  feelings.  Unfor- 
tunately he  applied  to  the  wrong  person :  Mr.  Gillespie,  of  whom  he  made  the  demand,  com- 
menced scolding  him  for  attempting  to  swindle,  and  remarked  that  he  had  paid  him  already ; 
whereupon  the  "and  I  too"  of  all  the  i>arty  put  an  abrupt  termination  to  further  speculation 
on  the  verdancy  or  sympatliy  of  the  Crrhir/os.  The  little  fellow's  coolness  and  effrontery, 
however,  were  so  perfect  that  he  certainly  earned  all  he  got. 

Bidding  good-by  to  our  friends,  we  rode  through  a  little  paradise  to  the  rancho  of  Santa 

C Anita,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  spots  I  have  ever  beheld.  Around  San  Jose,  and  every  mile 
of  the  valley,  are  plantations  of  sugar-cane,  cotton,  corn,  and  tobacco,  while  in  the  gardens 
are  groves  of  orange,  fig,  lemon,  lime,  and  pomegranate  trees,  and  the  broad  leaves  of  the 
plantain  and  banana  are  seen  overhanging  almost  every  ditch  or  aqueduct.  At  Santa  Anita, 
standing  on  a  broad  terrace,  in  front  of  the  fine  substantial  ranch-house,  and  looking  down 
the  valley,  the  black  and  ragged  peaks  of  the  San  Lazaro  shut  in  tlie  view  on  the  west ;  roll- 
ing hills,  studded  with  the  tall  shafts  of  the  giant  column-cactus,  bound  it  on  the  east ;  while 
to  the  south,  one  sweep  of  the  eye  takes  in  all  the  luxui-lance  of  a  tropical  scene,  trained 
and  cultivated  by  the  hand  of  man.  To  one  who  sees  it  for  the  first  time,  there  is  some- 
thing indescribably  grand  in  the  waving  groves  and  long  alleys  of  palm-trees,  such  as  we  see 
here.  This  is  none  the  less  true,  notwithstanding  that  we  all  greeted  the  first  oak  we  saw  on 
approaching  the  frontiers,  as  if  it  were  an  old  and  dear  friend,  and  all  agreed  that  the  sight 
of  one  such  tree  was  better  than  that  of  a  forest  of  palms. 

Starting  next  morning,  we  rode  through  a  rather  pretty  country,  past  La  Palma  and  Mira- 
flores,  to  a  place  called  Santiago,  a  collection  of  half  a  dozen  houses.  The  road  lay  some- 
tinqies  in  bottom-land,  nicely  cultivated  ;  sometimes  over  a  piece  of  table-land,  composed  of 
gravel,  tTie  debris  of  granite  and  volcanic  rocks.  This  table,  or  mesa,  is  about  sixty  feet 
above  the  valley,  and  is  more  or  less  cut  up  by  dry  water-courses. 

It  supports  a  scattering  growth  of  bunch-grass,  and  affords  pasturage  to  large  herds  of 
cattle. 

In  some  places  in  the  lowlands  arc  a  few  oaks,  resembling  remotely  the  Upper  California 
live-oak.  These  are  to  be  seen  occasionally  as  far  north  as  San  Antonio,  where  they  finally 
disappear.  At  Santiago  there  are  extensive  plantations,  of  sugar-cane,  and  a  sugar-mill  was 
in  active  operation.'  The  process  throughout  is  oT  the  most  primitive  kind,  but  the  result  is 
a  very  palatable  sugar,  moulded  into  cakes  somewhat  like  maple-sugar,  and  known  as  pa- 
nochc.  This  place  was  the  scene  of  the  decisive  fight  between  the  rival  candidates  for  gov- 
ernorship in  the  last  revolution,  that  took  place  before  our  visit.  Navarette,  the  incumbent, 
occupied  with  his  forces  the  edge  of  the  mesa  on  one  side,  and  I'cdrin,  the  aspirant,  held  the 
other  side.  They  were  at  farthest  not  more  than  a  third  of  a  mile  apart,  and  consequently 
there  was  some  risk  in  exposing  one's  self  outside  the  friendly  cover  of  the  houses  and  walls. 
The  fight  was  kept  up  for  two  or  three  days — one  man  at  a  time  peeping  out  from  his  shelter, 
and,  witli  fear  and  trembling,  pulling  the  trigger  of  the  flint-lock  with  which  he  is  armed. 
Each  party  being  more  anxious  to  protect  itself  than  to  injure  the  other,  the  battle  might 
have  continued  a  month,  had  it  not  been  brought  to  a  sudden  conclusion  by  one  of  Pedrin's 
men  crawling  through  the  canes  in  the  bottom,  so  near  two  men  of  the  opposite  party  that 
he  succeeded  in  killing  both  without  being  hurt  himself.  Navarettc's  party  considered  this 
as  being  a  little  more  than  they  bargained  for ;  they  were  perfectly  willing  to  kill,  but  had  no 
desire  to  be  killed,  so  that  as  soon  as  the  news  of  the  death  of  their  two  comrades  reached 
them,  they  became  demoralized  and  fled  in  disorder,  leaving  Pedrin  in  possession  of  the  field 


T" 


y^' 


84  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

and  of  the  government.  Navarette,  abandoned  by  his  forces,  was  obliged  to  escape  as  best 
he  could,  and  at  the  time  of  our  visit  was  said  to  be  safe  on  the  other  side  of  the  gulf. 

From  Santiago  our  road  ran  along  the  dry  beds  of  streams,  and  across  the  same  gravelly 
mesas  as  the  day  before,  to  the  rancho  of  Los  Martires,  close  to  the  east  coast.  Here  we 
found  an  American,  Captain  Smith,  an  old  resident  of  La  Paz,  who  had  recently  purchased 
this  ranch  for  the  purpose  of  making  it  his  home.  It  was  quite  a  treat  to  us  to  see  his  little 
tow-headed  urchins  after  the  very  dark  complexions  we  had  become  accustomed  to.  A  resi- 
dence of  several  years  in  the  tropics  had  not  killed  the  go-ahead  American  spirit  of  the 
captain,  as  was  fully  attested  by  the  amount  of  work  that  had  been  done  in  the  few  months 
since  he  had  taken  possession  of  the  property.  Southeast  from  the  house  I  observed  a  high 
sandstone  hill,  the  strata  dipping  to  the  west  or  southwest  at  a  lew  angle.  Our  time  was  so 
limited  that  I  was  unable  to  visit  it,  but  the  rock,  of  which  I  saw  a  piece  near  the  house,  seems 
to  be  of  tertiary  age.  I  observed  no  trace  of  fossil  remains  by  which  it  could  be  accurately 
determined. 

After  spending  a  couple  of  hours  with  Captain  Smith,  and  taking  dinner  with  his  family, 
we  resumed  our  journey  and  rode  until  late  in  the  evening,  arriving  at  a  little  mountain 
settlement,  called  San  Bartolo  or  Las  Choreas.  Ourroute  lay  for  a  mile  over  a  sandy  beach, 
covered  with  shells.  We  saw  one  or  two  shoals  of  fish,  sporting  in  the  water  even  inside 
the  surf 

Leaving  the  beach,  we  entered  a  deep  carwn  with  very  steep  sides,  covered  with  brush 
and  cactus,  and  followed  it,  mostly  in  the  sandy  bed  of  the  stream,  to  near  its  head.  This 
caiion  is  so  characteristic  of  the  water-courses  of  Lower  California,  that  it  is  probably  worth 
describing.  When  the  heavy  winter  rains  fall,  the  canon  or  ravine  is  filled  with  a  wild  tor- 
rent of  water,  but  in  a  day  or  two  after  the  cessation  of  the  rain,  the  greater  part  of  its 
length  is  a  mere  dry  sandy  bed.  Li  places,  however,  where  the  underlying  rocks  come  to 
the  surface,  it  can  be  seen  that  there  is  still  a  running  stream,  although  it  is  to  a  great 
extent  subterranean.  La  such  places  the  water  runs  over  the  surface  of  the  rocks,  showing 
itself  first,  perhaps,  only  as  moisture  in  the  sand,  growing  to  a  trickling  rivulet,  and  event- 
ually tumbling  and  foaming  over  the  rocky  bed  in  the  most  orthodox  manner ;  but  a  few 
hundred  yards  down,  it  will  have  disappeared  entirely,  leaving  only  the  dry,  shitting  sands 
of  the  arroyo.  Thus,  just  before  reaching  San  Bartolo,  we  found  the  sand  wet,  and,  within 
a  quarter  of  a  mile,  were  climbing  over  rou^li  granite  masses,  with  the  waters  dashing  past 
us  in  deep  channels  worn  by  their  never-ending  flow.  Crossing  the  stream  just  above  the 
fall,  we  ascended  the  hill-side  in  a  darkness  that  could  almost  be  felt,  and,  trusting  entirely 
to  the  instinct  of  our  horses,  we  allowed  them  to  pick  their  way  along  the  narrow  trail  where 
a  false  step  would  have  been  almost  certain  death.  Half  a  mile  of  such  travel,  that  seemed 
almost  a  league,  brought  us  to  the  houses.  Tired  and  hungry,  we  unsaddled,  and,  after  the 
usual  Mexican  delay,  were  regaled  with  a  supper  of  tortillas  and  eggs.  Our  poor  animals 
did  not  fare  so  well,  but,  having  eaten  all  the  thatch  they  could  reach,  were  turned  into  a 
corral,  or  pen,  where  they  were  fed  on  green  sugar-cane. 

The  next  morning  revealed  a  pretty  and  withal  rather  a  wild  sight.  Half  a  dozen  little 
adobe-houses,  perched  on  the  flanks  of  the  steep  hill,  constituted  the  village ;  every  available 
spot  that  was  not  too  steep  for  cultivation  was  carefully  terraced,  and  water  led  to  it  by 
ditches  for  irrigation.  Vines,  oranges,  bananas,  and,  in  short,  nearly  every  tropical  fruit,  are 
here  cultivated  successfully,  and,  together  with  the  few  cows  that  can  pick  a  living  among 
the  cactus,  constitute  the  sole  support  of  the  people. 

From  San  Bartolo  our  route  lay  along  the  same  canon,  to  its  head ;  thence  into  the  head 
of  another  running  to  the  northward.  We  followed  this  to  its  mouth,  where  it  opens  into  a 
broad  level  valley  which  runs  down  to  the  coast  at  Yeutana  Bay.  Crossing  the  valley,  which 
supports  a  magnificent  crop  of  nearly  every  species  of  cactus  known  in  Lower  California,  we 
reached  the  village  of  San  Antonio.  About  half  a  mile  from  San  Antonio,  a  marked  change 
takes  place  in  the  geology. 

The  granite  of  the  south  is  replaced  by  mica-slates  which  form  the  "  country  rock  "  of  all 
the  metalliferous  veins  of  this  region,  and  which  extend  to  near  Todos  Santos  on  the  north- 
west, and  nearly  to  La  Paz  on  the  northeast,  so  far  as  our  observation-  permitted  us  to 
determine. 

San  Antonio  is  a  little  scattering  mining  town  of  several  hundred  inhabitants,  including 
■maiiyToreigners,  mostly  Germans.  Two  or  three  years  ago,  there  was  considerable  life  and 
activity  here,  owing  to  a  spasmodic  mining  excitement.  Nearly  all  of  the  old  mines  were  re- 
opened, many  new  ones  started,  and  for  a  while  there  appeai'cd  to  be  every  prospect  of  per- 
manent success.  But  a  revolution  came.  The  speculators  in  San  Francisco  did  not  i-calize 
the  success  they  had  anticipated.  Mines  had  been  taken  up,  not  (or  legitimate  work,  but  for 
sale  at  enormous  jn-iccs  ;  these  sales  were  not  made,  the  owners  fiiiled  to  send  down  the  ne- 
cessary funds  to  carry  on  the  w^ork,  and  in  several  instances  the  superintendents  were  thrown 
into  prison  for  debts  contracted  in  good  faith,  relying  on  the  promises  of  their  principals. 
In  other  instances,  the  owners  of  the  mines  started  in  good  earnest,  intending  to  do  legitimate 
work ;  but  they  were  in  most  instances  unfortunate  in  obtaining  possession  of  poor  or  value- 
less mines.  Still  other  cases  are  mentioned  where  the  superintendents  were  dishonest,  and 
at  least  had  the  reputation  of  appropriating  money  to  their  own  private  ends,  that  had  been 


K 


'■^^   .  '  EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNLV.  85 

sent  down  for  carryinjc  on  tlic  work  of  ilcvclopinji  mines.  Tluis  the  whole  history  of  the 
distriet  has  been  for  the  hist  few  years,  with  one  or  two  exceptions,  a  chronicle  of  disaster, 
misfortune,  or  dishonesty.  The  result  shows  itself  in  the  tqwn.  It  wears  a  deserted,  melan- 
choly look.  The  foreigners  are,  wit  IT  a  fe\v  exceptions,  anxious  to  get  away  ;  many  have  left, 
itnd  more  projiose  to  as  soon  as  tliey  shall  become  able.  There  arc  tiiany  mines  in  which 
work  will  doulitTcss  be  resumed  at  no  distant  day,  and  were  there  any  security  for  property  un- 
der the  Lr<ivermnent,  they  would  no  (loul)t  i)e  remunerative.  Almost  everybody  holding  material 
interest  in  the  country  seems  to  be  waiting  for  the  time  when  the  Americans  shall  take  pos- 
session. Many  persons  assured  me  that,  did  they  not  hope  for  such  an  event,  they  would 
leave  the  country  and  abandon  their  property.  In  fact,  it  seems  to  be  the  universal  opinion 
of  the  whole  country  that  its  "  manifest  destiny  "  is  annexation.  The  foreigners  of  all  nations 
are  anxious  for  it ;  half  the  native  population  desire  to  see  it,  and  the  remainder  look  for- 
ward to  it  as  an  inevitable  calamity.  When  the  event  does  take  place,  it  will  be  the  com- 
mencement of  an  era  of  activity  and  prosperity,  such  as  has  never  been  known  before  in  this 
out  of  the  way  and  almost  forgotten  corner  of  the  world. 

Across  a  low  range  of  hills  from  San  Antonio,  at  a  distance  of  about  four  miles,  is  the 
little  village  of  Triunfo.  the  headquarters  of  the  Triunfo  Mining  Company.  Here  is,  with 
the  exception  of  one  other,  the  only  successful  mining  enterprise  on  the  peninsula.* 

♦Mr.  Brook?  hn?  kindly  furnished  the  following  data: 

"The  Triunfo  Gold  and  Silver  Miiiinijj  Company  was  orsanized  in  consequence  of  the  representations 
of  a  commission  appointed  by  the  LToveriiment  of  the  territory,  for  the  purpose  of  interesting  San  Fran- 
cisco capital  in  the  development  of  the  mineral  resources  of  the  peninsula.  Don  Pedro  Navarefe  was 
•rovemor  at  the  time.  Ttie  commission  consisted  of  Don  Felix  Giherr,  Don  Ramon  Navarro,  Don  Salva- 
dor Villarino,  and  Don  8antia£;o  Viosca — all  trentlemen  of  hish  standing  in  the  territory,  and  all  in- 
timately connected  subsequently  with  the  fortunes  of  the  company. 

"The  lirst  ores  extracted  were  shipped  to  Europe,  there  beiuLC  no  mill  in  the  territory,  and  no  re- 
duction works  of  any  kind.  This  ore  turned  out  remarkably  well,  but  ttie  larger  proportion  being  con- 
simied  in  expenses,  the  company  resolved  to  erect  a  mill  and  farnaces  of  their  own.  Great  good  judg- 
ment was  evmced  by  the  directors  in  the  erection  of  machinery  suitable  to  the  nature  of  the  ores,  which 
are  exceedingly  rebellious,  consistin<;  of  sulphurcts  of  zinc,  arsenic,  antimony,  lead,  iron,  cobalt,  etc., 
in  combination,  with  scarcely  a  trace  of  silieious  matter.  Withal,  they  did  not,  escape  the  usual  fate  of 
minim;  companies.  No  adequate  conception  seems  to  have  been  formed  by  the  company  or  its  directors 
of  the  extent  of  tlie  enterprise  on  which  they  were  entering.  One  of  irs  by-laws  seems  to  have  been,  that 
the  agent  should  not  be  permitted  to  incur  an  obligation  exceeding  five  thousand  dollars,  whereas,  the 
freight  and  duties  of  a  simple  shipment  have  exceedei  that  amount.  Moreover,  shortly  after  the  organiza- 
tion of  thecomi)any,  the  minima-fever  broke  out  in  California,  and  probably  everyone  of  its  stockholders 
had  stock  enouu'h  to  make  tliem  poor  men  for  life. 

"  The  mill,  when  completed,  contrary  to  L'eneral  expectation,  worked  the  ores  with  complete  success 
from  the  start ;  but  the  blundei- of  blunders  was  not  wantinc: — the  ore  had  not  been  provided.  In  this 
case  the  mismanacrement  appears  to  have  been  unpardonable,  for  sulisequent  developments  have  proven 
the  existence  of  immense  deposits.  The  company  appears  to  have  been  much  in  debt  at  this  time,  and 
to  have  relied  upon  the  mill,  of  ten  stamps  only,  to  relieve  them  promptly  as  well  as  to  turnish  hand- 
some dividends.  Had  an  abundant  supply  of  ore  been  provided,  their  expectations  would  doubtless 
have  been  realized;  as  it  was.  additional  assessments  had  to  be  called  for,  until  the  mines  could  be  put 
in  better  shape.  As  soon  as  this  condition  of  affairs  was  realized,  their  superintendent  was  removed, 
and  a  new  niana2:er  appointed. 

"About  this  time.  Don  Felix  Gibert.  a  irontleman  of  rare  intelliirencc  and  a  great  friend  to  American 
enterprise,  was  elected  2;overnor  of  the  territory.  Durin?  his  administration  were  built  the  wharf  at  La 
Paz,  the  foundation  of  the  new  custom-house;,  the  tine  wa^on-road  from  La  Paz  to  Triunfo,  as  well  as 
many  oiher  public  works  of  note.  Afrer  tlie  lapse  of  a  few  months  the  mines  of  the  company  appear  to 
liave  yielded  not  only  an  abundance  of  ore  for  the  mill,  but  also  some  for  export,  thus  srivini,'  promise 
of  the  sreat  abundance  since  developed  ;  but  of  course  this  was  attended  by  a  great  additional  expense, 
and  the  company,  the  stock-fever  havinE;  subsided,  j^rew  weary  of  their  enterprise.  Thus,  just  about  the 
time  that  their  property  had  really  become  valuable,  one  of  tlie  stockholders  brousrht  suit  to  restrain  the 
directors  from  colleciing  further  assessments,  and  the  injunction  beiuj;  granted,  the  directors,  to  cover 
therasflves  as  far  as  possible,  sold  the  bullion  shipped  by  their  agent,  and  returned  his  drafts  iirotested. 
Had  the  agent  not  been  very  prompt,  this  would  have  been  fatal,  for,  contrarv  to  the  general  belief,  exe- 
cution would  have  been  issued  instantly  by  the  creditors  upon  everything  belonging  to  the  eompany, 
the  bare  mines  excepted.  'J'his  danger  was  avoided  by  their  manager  giving  a  morlgagi^  to  the  governor, 
Don  Felix  Gibert,  in  behalf  of  all  the  creditors  ;  and  then,  calling  them  together,  and  explaining  his 
motives,  he  obtained,  after  much  exertion,  an  agreement  signed  1)y  all.  granting  four  months'  time  to 
the  company,  in  which  to  arrange  their  atfiirs.  With  this  ho  proceeded  to  San  Francisco,  and, 
finding  the  company  completely  demoralized  financially,  he  succeeded  in  procuring  a  legal  meeting  of 
the  stockholders,  who  voted  unanimously  to  dispose  of  the  property  on  the  best  obtainable  terms,  ap- 
pointing their  agent  to  proceed  to  New  York  and,  if  necessary,  to  Europe,  in  order  to  negotiate  a  sale. 
By  this  time  a  month  of  the  four  mouths'  grace  had  been  consumed,  and  by  the  time  the  agcut  reached 
New  York,  nearly  two  months  had  elapsed. 

"  In  the  mean  time  great  changes  were  taking  place  on  the  peninsula.  The  governor  to  whom  we 
have  alluded.  Don  Felix  Gibert.  was  strongly  suspected  of  a  tendency  to  iini)erialism,  but,  in  good 
truth,  he  had  been  plac?d  in  a  dilemma  between  the  horns  of  which  it  was  really  dillicult  to  choose.  This, 
led  to  C'harvbdis— that,  to  Scylla  ;  and  while  hesitating,  he  was  spared  further  agony  by  being  driven  out 
of  otHcc.  The  French,  it  appears,  coveting  the  peninsula,  and  vet  not  having  a  soldier  to  spare,  caused 
it  to  be  nimor.'d  repeatedly  that  they  were  about  to  send  the  Vii-toire,  or  th(!  Venus,  or  the  Lucifer,  with 
forces  to  take  possession.  Having  occasioned  a  stifticient  (legree  of  alarm,  they  sent  over  to  say  diplo- 
matically, that  if  the  Lower  Calil'ornians  would  recognize  the  empire,  no  force  would  be  sent,  governors 
and  potentates,  custom-house  ofiiccrs  and  what  not,  should  be  permitted  to  remain  and  thrive— every 
thing  should  proceed  exactly  as  heretofore;  not  a  Frenchman  should  deserrate  the  soil;  a  commis- 
sioner, and  he  a  Lower  Californian,  should  be  appointed  just  for  the  form  of  the  thing— nothing  more. 

"The  bait  took;  the  governor  called  a  meeting  of  the  Legislature  lo  lay  before  them  the  proposition. 
That  august  bodv  wished  to  shirk  the  question,  but  it  was  delicately  intimated  that  they  could  choose 
between  graceful  compliance  and  a  very  ungraceful  one,  and  so,  after  due  deliberation,  it  was  decided  to 
welcome  Si-fior  Espinosa.  Now,  Espinosa  had  formerly  been  governor  of  the  territory,  at  which 
time  Don  Felix  Gibert  had  been  his  private  secretary,  and  his  friend  and  pupil ;  so,  whatever  Don  Felix 


86  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AXD 

The  Triunfo  mines,  some  seven  in  number,  and  all  lying  in  a  compact  body,  belong  to  an 
American  company  of  the  same  name,  and  are  owned  partly  in  San  Francisco  and  partly  in 
Philadelphia.  Like  nearly  all  of  the  others,  these  mines  would  have  been  abandoned  by  the 
proprietors,  had  it  not  been  for  the  energy  and  perseverance  of  Mr.  Henry  Brooks,  the  very 
able  manager  and  principal  owner.  At  a  time  when  all  were  losing  confidence,  because 
they  did  not  see  large  shipments  of  bullion,  and  when  the  trustees  in  the  States  hesitated 

rnay  have  thonn;ht  about  imperial  matters,  he  received  his  friend  gracefully  and  cordially,  as  in  honor 
hound.  This  led  to  misapprehension,  and  thus  it  was  in  the  nature  of  thintrs  that  when  a  small  force, 
dissatisfied  with  their  pretty  little  arrangements,  marched  on  La  Paz.  Don  Felix  and  his  friend  both  had 
to  retire  with  remarkable  promptitude.  So  far  Don  Felix  had  made  a  mistake — a  mistake  only ;  but 
from  this  time  forward  every  step  was  a  fatal  one.  If  he  had  retired  quietly  from  La  Paz  to  the  interior, 
he  was  so  generally  beloved  that  he  would  not  only  have  been  perfectly  safe,  but  he  would  have  been  rein- 
stated in  a  few  weeks  at  farthest.  As  it  was,  he  crossed  over  to  "Mazatlan,  where  he  was  of  course 
greeted  as  a  distinguished  sulTerer  for  the  imperial  cause  ;  from  thence  he  proceeded  to  the  city  of  Mexi- 
co, was  introduced  to  Maximilian,  received  at  his  hands  the  decoration  of  Guadalupe,  which  cost  him 
fifty  dollars,  and  thus  destroyed  at  a  blow  the  brightest  prospects  for  a  distinguished  and  eminently  use- 
ful life  that  ever  fell  to  the  lot  of  a  young  man  of  eight-and-twenty. 

"  The  above  is  a  great  digression  ;  but  thus  it  was  that  when  the  agent  of  the  Triunfo  Company  re- 
turned from  the  East,  having  been  successful  in  the  object  of  his  mission,  the  best  friend  of  the  company 
was  a  fugitive,  and  the  agent  who  had  been  intrusted  with  the  care  of  his  property  sought  to  foreclose 
the  mortgatre  in  his  own  behalf;  fortunatelj- — although  the  attempt  occasioned  considerable  expense — it 
was  a  complete  failure  ;  the  new  company  paid  the  debts,  released  the  mortgage,  and  took  possession  in 
due  form. 

"  The  new  company,  entitled  the  Triunfo  Silver  Mining  and  Commercial  Company,  had  decided  upon 
the  erection  of  a  larger  and  better  mill,  since  it  had  been  proven  tiiat  the  product  of  the  mines  would  be 
far  in  excess  of  the  old  one.  After  arranging  aftairs  in  La  Paz,  the  agent  proceeded  to  San  Francisco  to 
order  the  machinery,  and  in  the  mean  time  another  revolution,  or  rather  two  or  three  of  them,  occurred, 
or  perhaps  they  might  be  described  more  justly  as  a  revolution  and  a  revolutionary  fizzle. 

"Don  Antonio  Pedrin,  who  succeeded  to  the  governorship  by  virtue  of  his  ollice  as  vice-governor,  is 
one  of  those  (alas,  rarce.  ares  in  these  days)  who  prefer  retirement  and  simplicity  to  the  honors  and  emol- 
uments of  ofidce ;  therefore  he  signified  his  desire  that  a  new  election  should  be  held  as  promptly  as 
possible.  The  rival  candidates  were  Don  Ramon  Navarro  and  Don  Pedro  Navarete,  both  ex-governors. 
During  the  election  charges  and  counter-charges  were  made  of  ballot-box  stuffing;  a  quarrel  ensued, 
which  culminated  in  an  attempt  on  the  part  of  Havarro  to  seize  the  [)erson  of  Navarete :  this  was  toiled, 
owing,  it  is  said,  to  the  intervention  of  Americans,  a  very  imprudent  intermeddling  with  local  squabbles. 
The  upshot  of  it  all  was  that  nobod)/  was  elected,  so,  fur  a  while,  Don  Antonio  Pedrin  continued  to  hold 
the  uncoveted  dignity.  But  Navarete,  who  was  from  San  Jose,  was  bent  on  office  ;  assuming  tliat  he 
had  been  legally  elected,  and  making  a  charge  against  Pedrin  of  having  sympathized  with  his  rival,  he 
marched  on  La  Paz,  took  the  vice-governor  prisoner,  whom  he  had  a  strong  disposition  to  shoot,  but 
finally  banished. 

"  It  was  during  these  troublous  times  that  an  event  occurred— more  fatal,  for  the  time  being,  to  the 
interests  of  the  i)eninsula  than  any  which  had  occurred.  This  was  the  seizure  of  the  Mexican  packet- 
ship  John  L.  Stephens  at  Cape  St.  Lucas,  by  Dana,  an  American,  holding  commission  under  Coroua. 
The  act  was  of  course  perfectly  justifiable,  and  the  steamer  a  legal  prize,  liad  Dana  chosen  to  make  a 
prize  of  her;  but  though  she  escaped  on  very  easy  terms,  the  conipany  withdrew  their  steamer  from  the 
peninsular  trade,  and  thus  the  country  remained  almost  entirely  cut  ofl"  from  communication  with  the 
world  for  nine  months,  and  this  too  with  steamers  running  up  or  down  the  entire  length  of  its  coast  every 
two  or  three  days. 

"The  Triunfo  Company  were  the  greatest  sufferers  by  this  disaster,  for  their  machinery,  as  also  a 
very  large  amount  of  merchandise  and  material,  had  been  purchased  under  contract  to  bo  put  aboard  the 
steamer  of  May,  the  seizure  of  the  John  L.  Stephens  occurring  in  April.  After  much  difficulty  and  delay, 
the  company  chartered  a  sailing-vessel  which,  after  getting  out  to  sea,  had  to  put  back  in  a  sinking  coii- 
dition.  The  machinery  had  to  be  reshipped  on  the  brig  Lopud,  which  finally  put  to  sea  in  July,  reach- 
ing La  Paz  about  the  middle  of  August.  In  the  mean  time,  the  agent,  who  had  returned  to  the  penin- 
sula, after  securing,  as  he  thought,  the  shipment  of  the  machinery,  unable  to  conceive  the  occasion  of  its 
non-arrival,  crossed  over  to  Mazatlan  in  a  small  sailing-vessel,  and  from  thence  took  steamer  to  San  Fran- 
cisco, to  ascertain  the  occasion  of  the  delay.  On  his  arrival  the  brig  had  sailed,  whereupon  he  took  the 
Eastern  steamer  Colorado,  for  the  cape ;  but  a  storm  8priii|ring  up,  he  was  unable  to  land,  and  was  car- 
ried on  to  Manzanillo  and  Acapulco,  detained  there  some  clays,  as  the  up-steamer  had  broke  her  shaft, 
and  finally  took  passage  back  on  the  steamer  California,  to  encounter  a  still  severer  storm  at  the  cape 
despite  of  whicli  he  landed,  at  the  risk  of  his  life. 

"  From  this  time  forward,  the  erection  of  the  new  mill  of  the  Triunfo  Company  and  the  development 
of  its  mines  steadily  progressed,  despite  of  several  additional  revolutions,  with  a  revolt  of  the  guard 
thrown  in  ;  for  Navarette  had  made  himself  extremely  unpopular  iiniouir  all  classes.  During  his  ad- 
ministration it  was  ciislonKiry  to  levy  a  lorced  loan  upon  the  Mexican  merchants  about  once  a  "week  ;  an 
attempt  to  play  the  same  ganie  upon.Vmericans  resulled  in  an  iiulignatiou-meetinL;'  and  tlie  development 
of  .a  spirit  which  he  liad  little  expected.  Several  attem])ts  were  made  to  remove  him— one  by  Dim  Sal- 
vador Villarino,  which  resulted  in  the  slaughter  of  two  horses,  and  a  diplomatic  termination,  leaving 
Navarete  still  (.'e/t'  Politico.  On  the  reappointment  of  Don  Antonio  Pedrin  by  Juarez,  that  gentleman 
relumed  from  San  Francisco  to  the  peninsula,  sendiiiLr  forward  his  credentials  to  Governor  Navarete 
at  La  Paz.  Navarete  answered  in  person,  accompanied  by  all  the  farce  he  could  muster,  and  advancing 
by  forced  marches,  the  rival  governors  encountered  at  Santiago,  where,  alter  fighting  three  days,  or  a 
week— I  forget  which— with  a  loss  of  two  men,  Navarete  retreated,  leaving  Don  Antonio  Pedrin  mas- 
ter of  the  situation. 

"  Withal,  this  is  a  very  peaceable  country  (don't  laugh) — nobody  is  ever  robbed  or  murdered ;  at  least 
such  an  event  does  not  occur  oliener  than  once  in  a  year  or  two.  During  all  these  disturbances,  when 
armed  men  were  running  all  over  the  country,  no  outrage  of  any  kind  occurred  :  neither  when  they  were 
finally  disbanded.  Governor  Pedrin,  confident  in  the  affection  "of  the  people,  has  dismissed  every  sol- 
dier, liceping  not  even  a  guard. 

"As  to  the  Triunfo  Company,  it  has  successfully  surmounted  all  the  innumerable  obstacles  it  has 
had  to  encounter,  and  it  is  worthy  of  note  that  duriiiLr  all  these  disturbances  its  property  was  scrupu- 
lously respected.  On  the  road,  while  native  teams  and  )>ack-tiains  were  freely  taken  by  either  or  rather 
every  belligerent,  those  of  the  company  were  never  interlered  with. 

"The  amount  of  ore  crushed  andf  oasted  in  three  weeks' run  was  ;j50  tons  ;  the  amount  amalga- 
mated, 1(H),  less  than  half  of  the  amalLramatin^'  power  being  completed  at  the  start.  The  yield  was  sev- 
enty dollars  per  ton,  rather  a  poor  grade  of  ore  being  worked  first,  for  precaution's  sake.  The  bars 
averaged  UGU  fine,  and  command  the  highest  premium  of  any  shipped  to  San  Francisco  market." 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  87 

about  further  as.ses-;n>cnt!5,  Mr.  Hrooks,  nothing  dauuted  l)y  tlic  difficulties  with  which  lie  was 
surrounded,  spent  his  own  money  I'reely,  to  keep  up  the  credit  of  the  company  and  carry  on 
the  work.  At  hist,  stimuhited  by  his  zeal  and  persistenc)',  the  company  came  again  to  his 
support,  and,  as  a  result,  are  to-day  owners  of  a  mining  property  ecjualled  in  value  by  very 
few  on  the  continent.  The  work  heretofore  done  lias  been  principally  opening  the  veins, 
with  a  view  to  steady  work  in  the  future.  Two  of  the  mines  have  been  prepared  so  that 
tliey  can  keep  the  live  twenty-four-stanip  mills  running  for  several  years  by  the  ore  already  in 
sight.  These  two  mines,  the  Mendocefia  and  the  Molinena,  adjoin  each  other,  and  need 
but  a  few  feet  of  tunnel  to  connect  their  workings.  Tiie  vein  is  so  situated  in  a  hill,  that  the 
mines  can  be  worked  to  a  depth  of  between  000  and  '/GO  feet  from  the  surface  without  the  neces- 
sity of  pumping,  and  as  soon  as  the  two  mines  are  connected  (in  the  seventh  level  of  the  Mendo- 
ceiia),  all  of  the  ore  can  be  taken  out  of  the  tunnel  of  the  Molinena,  thus  saving  the  cost  of  hoist- 
ing. The  body  of  ore  in  these  mines  averages  throughout  about  four  feet  in  thickness,  very 
uniform  in  character,  and  varying  very  little  from  the  average  width,  except  that  it  shows  a 
slow  though  steady  tendency  to  widen  downward.  It  is  probable  that  measurements  would 
show  an  average  thickness  of  nearer  five  feet  than  four,  in  the  lowest  fifty  feet.  The  ore  it- 
self is  a  compound  of  sulphuret  of  lead,  antimony,  etc.,  containing  about  one  hundred  dol- 
lars of  silver  to  the  ton. 

Mr.  Loher  made  a  series  of  assays  from  samples  selected  with  the  greatest  care,  to  obtain 
average,  and  his  results  varied  from  §90  to  SI 24  per  ton.  Choice  specimens  of  first-class 
ore  yielded  S225  per  ton.  An  extension  has  been  made  on  the  dip  of  the  vein,  so  as  to  give 
the  present  company  control  of  the  vein  to  any  depth  to  which  work  will  probably  ever  be 
carried. 

Besides  these  three  claims,  there  arc  also  four  others,  belonging  to  the  same  company,  on 
a  parallel  vein  somewhat  smaller,  and  with  ore  of  a  slightly  different  character.  On  one  of 
these  claims  considerable  work  has  been  done,  and  a  large  quantity  of  ore  taken  out.  During 
the  period  of  struggle  for  existence,  this  ore  was  worked  in  a  ten-stamp  mill,  and  supplied  a 
considerable  portion  of  the  funds  used  in  keeping  under  way  the  work  of  preparation  on  the 
other  mines.  This  ore  contains  a  preponderance  of  zinc,  and  I  was  told  by  Mr.  Youngjohn, 
the  metallurgist,  that  it  is  less  refractory  than  that  of  the  other  veins.  On  all  of  the  claims 
in  this  vein  small  shafts  and  irregular  excavations  have  been  made  by  the  Mexicans  from 
time  to  time,  for  the  purpose  of  extracting  the  "  azogue  metal,"  or  ore  that  could  be  amal- 
gamated without  roasting,  and  which  results  from  the  decomposition  of  the  sulphides  near 
the  surface.  These  excavations,  trifling  in  themselves,  are  still  sufficient  to  prove  that  a  con- 
siderable body  of  ore  is  found  along  the  whole  line  of  the  vein  included  within  those  boun- 
daries. From  the  relative  positions,  and  the  angles  at  which  these  two  veins  dip,  it  is  not 
improbable  that  they  may  eventually  be  found  to  be  united  below,  inasmuch  as  in  descend- 
ing they  approach  each  other  rapidly,  and  are  not  very  far  apart  even  at  the  surface. 

The  vein  on  which  the  Mendocefia  and  Molinena  mines  are  situated  has  been  traced  sev- 
eral miles,  and  the  whole  length  is  covered  with  claims.  Some  of  these  are  held  on  the 
Micawber  principle,  while  others  have  been  opened  partially,  or,  as  in  the  case  of  the  "Mex- 
ican Mines,"  to  the  extent  of  successful  working.  These  mines,  known  as  the  San  Pedro  and 
the  old  and  new  San  Nicolas,  have  been  worked  in  an  irregular  and  inefficient  manner  for  a 
scries  of  years,  and,  in  spite  of  the  miserable  manner  in  which  the  work  has  been  done, 
proved  throughout  very  remunerative  to  the  owners.  There  is  no  material  difference  between 
the  appearance  of  the  vein  here  and  in  the  mines  already  described.  Besides  these  mines, 
there  are  in  the  vicinity  of  Triunfo  and  San  Antonio  a  few  that  will  undoubtedly  prove  good, 
and,  of  course,  as  is  always  the  case,  a  host  of  worthless  ones. 

During  our  stay  in  this  neighborhood  we  were  the  guests  of  Mr.  Brooks,  who  had  been 

our  travelling  companion  from  the  cape.     Through  the  untiring  kindness  and  courtesy  of  this 

,     gentleman,  assisted  by  all  the  other  officers  of  the  company,  we  were  enabled  to  see  much 

'|-1/-'  more  of  the  region  in  the  limited  time  we  spent  there,  than  would  have  been  possible  had  we 

J/\     been  thrown  on  our  own  resources. 

^    I  After  a  delay  of  four  or  five  days,  partly  spent  in  investigating  the  mines  and  partly  in 

i/V        fio^^inj;  against  the  inevitable  "  poco  tiempo"  procrastination,  which  is  the  most  marked 

^  characteristic  of  the  wliole  Spanish-American  people,  and  which  drove  Mr.  Browne  to  his 

/  wit's  end  with  impatience,  we  ran  down  to  La  Paz  on  a  flying  visit.     There  is  a  good  road  al 

/    the  way,  for  which  the  county  is  indebted  to  foreign  energy.     The  distance  is  45  miles,  and 

/      this,  together  with  another  wagon-road  from  San  Antonio  to  Vcntana  Bay,  25  miles  long,  and 

\      also  madejjvjorejfjners,  makes  about  one-half  of  all  the  length  of  wagon-road  on  the  penin- 

V  sula.  '.       ■ 

"       Our  party,  consisting  of  Mr.  Browne,  Mr.  Brooks,  and  myself,  started  from  Triunfo  on  the 

morning  of  January  12th,  and  rode  to   a  raneho  called  Las   Playitas,  sonic   '■',:',  miles  from 

Triunfo.     The  road  is  gently  undulating,  with  occasional  stretches  of  le^xd  ground.     As  a 

work  of  private  enterprise  it  rcfltcts  great  credit  on  the  company,  at  whose  expense  all  the 

more  important  parts  were  made,  although  it  is  called  a  "  caraino  real,"  and  is  really  the 

property  of  government.     The  route  lies  through  an  undulating,  rather  hilly  country,  and  is 

on  an  average  descent  from  the  summit  of  a  ridge  not  more  than  half  a  mile  from  the  offices 

of  the  company.     The  hills  are  covered  with  a  vegetation  very  characteristic  of  the  lower 


gg  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

part  of  the  territory,  and  this  ride  alone  from  La  Paz  to  Triunfo  would  give  to  a  botanist  a 
very  fair  idea  of  the  flora  of  the  region.  On  ffie'cievated  ground  the  two  species  of  giant 
cactus  (Cercus  sp.  ?)  tower  everywhere  from  80  to  40  feet  high ;  with  them  are  the  more 
graceful  shafts  of  the  Pitahaya  dulce,  yielding  a  fruit  said  to  be  superior  to  the  strawberry ; 
not  so  prominent  in  altitude,  but  more  numerous,  are  the  Sour  Pitahayes  with  their  snake- 
like  branches  and  formidable  thorns,  while  less  obtrusive  than  any  of  these  is  the  Yisuaga  or 
Turk's-head  cactus,  one  of  the  most  useful  plants  in  the  country.  This  is  a  spherical  or 
elongated  mass  about  a  foot  in  diameter,  covered  with  formidable  spines,  three  or  four  inches 
long,  crossing  each  other  in  every  direction,  and  the  longest  of  them  curved  like  a  fish-hook. 
Woe  to  the  man  who  should  stumble  against  them  in  the  dark !  but,  in  this  country,  people 
arc  very  careful  not  to  stumble  in  the  dark.  The  very  babies  learn  to  run  barefoot  where 
half  the  vegetation  is  covered  with  thorns  like  needles,  and  accidents  from  this  source  are 
nearly  unknown.  The  weary  traveller,  dizzy  with  the  overpowering  heat  of  the  sun,  and 
parched  with  thirst,  can  find  relief  almbst  instantly  by  the  use  of  this  plant.  It  grows  almost 
everywhere,  from  Cape  San  Lucas  to  beyond  San  Diego,  and  its  bright-red  thorns  distinguish 
it  at  once  from  all  the  other  Cacti.  L'nlike  most  of  the  others,  it  has  no  woody  skeleton,  and 
■  with  a  large  knife  can  be  readily  cut  to  pieces.  The  interior,  cut  into  thin  slices  and  held  in 
the  air  for  a  few  moments,  cools  by  evaporation  and  can  then  be  eaten,  or  at  least  chewed  so 
as  to  extract  the  moisture.  The  amount  of  fluid  matter  in  it  is  very  great,  and  the  taste  is 
not  unlike  that  of  green  cucumber.  Besides  the  above  more  prominent  species,  there  are 
the  graceful  Carambuya,  most  to  be  admired  because  its  thorns  are  short ;  the  Choreas,  which 
have  a  bad  trick  whenever  they  are  touched  of  dropping  their  leaves,  studded  with  thorns  as 
sharp  as  a  cambric  needle,  and  which  attach  themselves  to  one  with  a  pertinacity  worthy  of 
a  better  cause ;  the  flat-leaved  "  prickly-pear,"  and  half  a  dozen  more  of  the  ''  small  fry," 
which,  although  hardly  worth  a  separate  mention,  demand  their  full  share  of  attention  from 
the  unfortunate,  who  is  obliged  to  pick  his  way  through  a  Lower  California  thicket. 

Of  trees,  the  preponderance  of  species  belong  to  the  family  of  the  Acacias ;  the  Mesquit 
and  Lipua,  invaluable  for  forage ;  the  Palo  Blanco,  with  wood  like  ivory  or  lignum  vitae  for 
hardness  ;  the  Palo  Verde  and  the  Palobrea,  with  bark  as  green  as  grass,  that  of  the  latter 
being,  as  the  name  implies,  a  coat  of  resinous  gum  instead  of  a  true  bark ;  two  species  of 
Torote,  with  wood  so  soft  and  brittle,  that  a  green  limb  two  inches  in  thickness,  and  without 
a  fl'.tw,  broke  short  off  close  to  the  trunk  under  the  weight  of  my  saddle  only :  these,  with  half 
a  dozen  shrubs,  some  bearing  beautiful  flowers,  are  all  acacias.  Less  abundant,  but  found 
v/  occasionally,  are  the  wild  fig-trees,  and  one  or  two  bearing  excellent  I'ruit.  The  undergrowth 
/^-consists  of  a  great  variety  of  bushes,  nearly  all  of  "wlnch^were  strangers  to  us,  and  most  of 
them,  bearing  their  full  proportion  of  thorns,  fill  in  every  available  spot,  and  make  a  dense 
and  tangled  mass  of  vegetation,  through  which  only  the  native  cattle  attempt  to  force  a  pas- 
sage. These  animals,  with  a  supreme  contempt  for  the  thorns,  rove  everywhere,  and  pick  up  a 
good  living,  feeding  principally  on  "  bunch  grass,"  a  kind  of  grass  that  exists  everywhere  on 
the  west  coast  of  North  America,  and  which  is  one  of  the  most  valuable  of  our  forage 
plants. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  road,  at  a  place  called  the  Calabazas  or  Gourds,  is  a  range  of 
granite  hills,  in  which  many  traces  of  copper  have  been  found.  Some  attempts  at  raining 
have  been  made,  but  so  far  they  have  all  ended  unsuccessfully.  There  are  nevertheless 
many  persons  here  who  still  retain  confidence  in  the  future  value  of  these  mines,  or  at  least 
say  they  do.  They  all  seem  to  own  shares,  and  are  perfectly  willing  to  sell  at  good  round 
prices.  Not  having  time  to  visit  them,  we  had  no  opportunity  of  forming  an  opinion  for  our- 
selves. 

The  Playitas  is  a  little  rancho  in  the  hills  near  the  borders  of  the  plains  of  La  Paz.  The 
granite  on  the  edge  of  this  jjlain  is  overlaid  liy  stratified  volcanic  ash,  and  this  in  turn  by  a 
very  hard  jjorphyritic  trachyte,  dipping  usually  to  the  west  and  northwest,  but  somewhat  con- 
torted near  La  Paz.  South  of  this  is  the  high  granite  chain  of  the  Cacachilas,  in  Avhich  are 
also  some  mines  claimed  to  be  good. 

Our  duties  did  not  lead  us  in  this  direction,  and  wo  were  obliged  reluctantly  to  forego  the 
pleasure  of  visiting  the  district.  The  ores  which  I  saw  resemble  those  of  San  Antonio  and 
Triunfo,  except  in  that  they  seem  to  contain  much  more  lead. 

The  road  along  the  i)lain  to  La  Paz  is  wide  and  perfectly  level,  cut  in  the  greater  part 
through  a  monte,  or  thicket  of  cactus.  The  soil  is  good  in  places ;  in  other  parts,  especially 
'  near  La  Paz,  it  is  somewhat  gravelly.  A  large  tract  here  could  be  cultivated,  were  it  not  for 
the  absence  of  water.  Doubtless,  water  could  be  obtained  by  "artesuin  boring,  but,  from  the 
thickness  of  the  volcanic  ash,  the  wells  would  in  all  probability  have  to  reach  a  great  depth 
before  striking  a  good  supply.  The  high  range  of  the  Cacachilas  would  supply  more  water 
than  would  be  needed  to  irrigate  the  whole  valley,  but  the  depth  necessary  to  obtain  it  is  a 
problem  that  can  only  be  solved  by  actual  experiment. 

Tlie  city  is  one  of  the  very  few  which  do  not  belie,  on  a  close  inspection,  the  appearance 
they  present  from  a  distance.  Seen  from  the  road  one  cannot  obtain  a  very  good  idea  of  it, 
though  its  white  houses,  nestling  among  palms  und  cottonwoods,  make  a  picture  that,  once 
seen,  can  never  be  forgotten.  But  if  the  view  from  the  land  side  is  lovely,  words  almost  fiiil 
to  convey  an  idea  of  its  beauty  when  seen  from  the  bay.     The  houses  are,  with  a  single 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNLV.  80 

X 

exception,  atul  ;\  foreign  innovation  at  that,  all  of  one  story ;  they  are  mostly  built  of  adobe, 
or  niiul  bricks  lirTeil  in  the  sun ;  the  walls  are  very  thiek  anil  wliitewashcd,  tlie  roofs  are  flat 
anil  are  made  of  burnt  brieks,  or  tiles  laid  on  palm-poles,  and  the  whole  covered  with  cement. 
The  streets  are  mostly  shaded  by  cottonwoods  and  willows,  and  in  many  of  the  gardens  arc 
the  tall  and  graceful  fan  and  date  palms,  sudieiently  numerous  to  stamp  the  picture  with  an 
nnmistakably  tropical  aspect.  The  principal  part  of  the  town  is  built  on  a  low  (hit  but  little 
raised  aViove  the  tide;  l)ack  of  this  is  a  very  low  table-land,  on  wliich  ai-e  many  of  the  finer 
residences,  the  cuartel  or  barracks,  the  church,  and,  in  fact,  all  the  more  imposing  edifices. 
Seen  from  the  deck  of  a  vessel  the  brilliant  contrast  between  the  white  houses  and  the  dark 
foliage  of  the  lower  part  of  the  town  is  relieved  by  the  more  scattered  but  more  pretentious 
buildiug.s  of  the  npper  portion,  and  the  effect  is  immeasurably  heightened  by  the  rugged 
masses  of  the  sombre  Caeachilas  in  the  background.  But  alas  !  even  here  is  not  yet  para- 
dise ;  one  of  the  prettiest  towns  in  the  world,  a  climate  with  which  even  that  of  the  much- 
praised  Italy  eamiot  compare,  a  country  iu  which  laziness  is  at  a  premium  ;  in  fact,  when  it 
would  seem  that  one  could  dream  life  away  without  a  care,  even  here  the  picture  has  a  dark 
side.  Iu  the  months  of  September  to  Noveml)er  the  town  is  subject  to  the  most  terrible 
hurricanes,  ships  are  driven  on  shore  high  and  dry,  trees  are  torn  up  by  the  roots  or  broken 
like  reeds,  every  thing  that  the  storm-king  touches  is  destroyed  as  effectually  as  if  by  fire,  and 
in  a  day  perhaps  may  be  ruined  property  that  has  taken  years  to  accumulate.  It  is  princi- 
pally ou  this  account  that  the  houses  are  built  so  low,  and  with  so  little  about  them  that  can 
be  affected  by  storms. 

I  In  La  Paz  we  were  very  well  received  by  Mr.  Elmer,  the  United  States  consul,  who  is  very 
/  enthusiastic  over  the  value  Qf  the  peninsula,  and  who,  moreover,  as  in  duty  bound,  is  a  firm 
I  believer  in  the  doctrine  of  "  manifest  destiny."  Another  gentleman  here,  Mr.  Vioska,  the 
agent  of  the  steamship  and  express  companies,  very  kindly  did  every  thing  hj  could  to  assist 
us  and  facilitate  our  work.  Accompanied  by  this  gentleman,  we  had  a  long  and  tedious  inter- 
view with  Don  Antonio  gajrin,  the  governor.  The  old  gentleman  has  the  reputation  of  being 
a  much  bettor  ranchero  than  politician,  and  certainly  the  little  I  saw  of  him  confirmed  me  in 
that  opinion.  The  free  manner  in  which  he  saw  fit  to  criticise  the  acts  of  his  superiors  before 
strangers,  and  foreigners  at  that,  was  not  at  all  calculated  to  convey  a  high  opinion  of  his  tact 
as  a  politician.  Nevertheless,  the  thinking  men.  of  the  Territory  are  better  satisfied  with  him 
than  they  generally  are  with  their  governors,  from  the  fact  that,  whatever  are  his  feelings  in 
other  respects,  they  believe  him  to  be  strictly  honest  and  incorruptible. 

After  spending  two  days  in  La  Paz,  and  visiting  the  United  States  steamer  Suwanee,  which 
was  lying  in  the  harbor,  we  returned  to  Triunfo,  accompanied  by  Dr.  Wiss,  a  German  physi- 
cian of  San  Antonio,  who  afterward  joined  us  on  tlie  trip  to  Magdalena  Bay.     Our  ride  back 
was  accompanied  by  no  incidents  of  special  interest,  except  the  persistent  efforts  of  a  ilexi- 
can,  who  followed  us  several  miles,  endeavoring  to  sell  us  a  mule  for  about  two  and  a  half 
times  its  i-eal  value.     The  sale  was  not  effected.     We  reached  Triunfo  on  Wednesday  after- 
noon, and  on  Thursday,  January  17th,  while  Mr.  Browne  was  immersed  in  the  pleasant  occupa- 
tion of  buying  mules,  and  trying  to  avoid  being  cheated  by  the  Mexicans,  who  are  the  worst 
jockeys  in  the  world,  Mr.  Lcihcr  an;]  I  spent  the  morning  visiting  some  of  the  mines  that  we 
had  not  as  yet  examined  fully.     Returning  a  little  after  noon,  and  taking  a  liasty  lunch,  we 
packed  up,  bade  a  reluctant  good-by  to  om-  friends,  and,  with  many  regrets   at  leaving  a 
place  where  our  stay  had  been  so  pleasant,  we  started  out,  alxnit  the  middle  of  the  afternoon, 
.    /»  cii  route  for  Magdalena  Bay,  our  party  consisting  of  seven,  including  Dr.  Wiss  and  his  mozo, 
^ ly  or  servant,  and  Jesus  Castillo,  our  Mexican  guide.     We  rode  but  half  a  dozen  miles  and  made 
■  fir     our  first  dry  camp ;  that  is,  we  camped  at  a  spot  where  we  had  pretty  grass,  but  no  water 
I  except  what  we  carried  in  our  canteens. 

/  Next  morning,  passing  through  a  deep  canon  cut  tlirough  cliffs  of  mica  slates,  we  emerged 

Y        on  a  mesa,  covered  with  a  scanty  soil  of  red   gravel,  and  in   the  afternoon   reached  Todos 
jP*     Santos,  fort3--five  miles  from  Triunfo,  and  a  mile  from  the  west  coast.     The  village  is  l)uilt  on 
h-  the  edge  ofTlTCmesa,  overlooking  the  creek  bottom,  and  contains  a  population  of  about  a 
f/^    hundred  souls.     It  consists  of  the  inevitable  plaza,  with  a  fine  church  on  one  side,  the  other 
three  sides  being  bordered  by  flat-roofed  houses,  mostly  private  residences,  though  one  or 
^        two  are  occupied  as  stores.     The  most  pretentious  of  the  houses  is  that  of  Don  Salvador  Vil- 
A)      larino,  the  great  man  of  the  place,  an<l  almost  the  only  resilient,  if  not  the  only  one,  who  can 
speak  English.     We  spent  a  very  pleasant  evening  at  his  house,  and  found  tliat,  like  most  of 
•the  more  intelligent  of  his  countrymen,  while  he  looked  upon  the  eventual  absorption  of  the 
Territory  by  the  United  States  as  inevitable,  he  was  nevertheless  bitterly  opposed  to  it,  be-  v 
cause,  as  he  frankly  acknowledged,  the  two  races  cannot  come  into  contact  without  resulting 
in  the  extinction  or  driving  out  of  his  own  people.     lie  had  witnessed  it  in  Upper  California, 
where,  over  whole  counties,  the  local  names  are  almost  the  only  trace  left  by  tlie  Spanish 
race,  after  the  short  space  of  twemy  years  of  American  ocmipation.     The  gardens  and  fields 
here  are  many  acres  in  extent,  and  cover  all  the  land  that  (an   lie  irrigated  in  tlie  i)ottom. 
Eigs,  oranges,  vines,  bananas,  and  sugar-cane  are  the  principal  productions.     The  latter  is  by 
for  the  most  important  item,  many  tiiousands  of  pounds  of  sugar  being  made  here  every  year. 
The  spot  is  very  pretty,  and  perhaps  looks  the  more  so  by  contrast  with  the  semi-desert  ap- 
pearance of  the  surrounding  country. 


(■ 


90 


SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 


Having  procured  one  more  mule  here,  thus  filling  our  complement  of  animals,  we  started 
about  noon,  and  went  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Arroyo  de  las  Palmaritas,  or  little  palm-grove, 

r travelling  the  whole  distance  over  sandy  and  gravelly  flats,  covered  with  cactus  and  bushes, 
without  trees.  We  camped  near  the  only  water,  a  well  of  saltish  water,  dug  near  the  merest 
pretence  of  a  house.  The  rancho  was  inhabited  by  a  large  family,  who  eked  out  a  scanty  sub- 
sistence from  a  few  cattle — cheese  and  milk  being  almost  their  entire  food,  as  is  the  case  with 
very  many  of  the  poorer  people  of  this  region.  The  proprietor,  in  blissful  ignorance  of  any 
■  thing  better,  asked  us,  with  all  the  simplicity  in  the  world,  how  we  liked  his  place  ;  he  "  liked 
it  very  much  "  himself,  so  nicely  situated,  and  with  such  good  pasture  for  animals.  We,  of 
course,  admired  it  exceedingly,  complimented  him  on  the  extant  and  .excellence  of  the  improve- 
ments he  had  put  upon  it ;  said  improvements  consisting  of  a  house  of  upright  poles  set  in 
the  ground,  and  admitting  of  admirable  ventilation,  covered  by  a  ragged  Ihatch,  a  corral  or 
cattle-pen,  and  a  well  of  execrable  water. 

The  next  morning,  the  20th,  we  left  our  contented  friend,  and  travelled  twenty-seven 
miles  over  a  barren  sandy  tract,  supporting  a  scanty  growth,  passing  a  rancho  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Arroyo  de  Carrisal,  similar  to  the  one  we  left  in  the  morning,  and  camped  in  the  afternoon 
on  the  rancho  of  the  Innocentes.  This  is  a  much  better  ranclio  than  those  we  had  passed  ;  there 
being  no  arable  land  here,  it  is  only  fit  for  stock-raisTng^Tjut  the  proprietor,  Seiior  Carvallo,  is  L/^ 
said  to  be,  in  the  local  sense  of  the  word,  rich.  He  has  large  herds  of  cattle,  sheep,  goats,  P\ 
horses,  and  mules,  besides  an  enormous  family  of  sons  and  daughters.  This  being  my  birthday, 
we  celebrated  it  by  a  rather  poor  attempt  at  aguardiente  punch,  made  in  a  tin  pan,  drunk  out  of 
tin  cups,  and  profusely  seasoned  with  apologies  from  our  cook  because  he  could  not  do  better. 
Senor  Carvallo  is  "  compadre,"  or  fellow-godfather  to  our  guide  Jesus,  and,  at  the  suggestion 
of  the  latter,  we  engaged  one  of  the  sons  of  the  former  to  accompany  us  as  mozo  and  general 
assistant.  Domingo,  a  large,  fine-looking  man,  twenty-six  years  of  age,  had  never  been  far- 
ther from  here  than  to  La  Paz,  and  it  was  only  after  profuse  promises  of  taking  care  of  him 
that  his  mother  would  let  him  go,  even  under  the  especial  care  and  protection  of  Jesus.  And 
well  she  might  fear,  for  a  more  ignorant,  unsophisticated,  overgrown  baby  never  left  a 
mother's  side.  Lazy  to  a  proverb,  he  was  utterly  useless,  except  when  on  the  road  he  was 
placed  behind  the  pack-mules  to  drive  them,  and  there  his  mule  carried  him  along  without 
any  exertion  on  his  part.  Like  most  lazy  people,  he  was  an  excellent  trencherman,  and  this 
triit,  especialVy  when  our  supplies  of  fresh  meat  ran  low,  made  him  a  constant  thorn  in  the 
flesh  to  the  cook,  who  declared  that  he  liked  to  see  fair  play. 

January  2Ls'i'. — Our  road  lay  over  low  gravel  tables  close  to  the  coast,  twenty-one  miles  to 
a  dry  camp.  We  gave  the  animals  water  about  noon,  and  carried  sufficient  for  ourselves  in 
leathern  bottles.  Near  this  camp  we  first  encountered  the  peculiar  table-lands  which  make 
half  of  Lower  California.  They  are  here  represented  by  a  very  slight  elevation  of  an  impure 
limestone  with  obscure  casts  of  fossil  shells,  all  apparently  belonging  to  living  species.  The 
limestone  dips  at  an  extremely  low  angle,  sloping  upward  to  the  eastward,  until  it  caps  high 
hills  with  their  tops  as  flat  as  if  they  had  been  planed  oft' by  the  hand  of  man. 

Our  camp  being  but  a  few  hundred  yards  from  the  beach,  I  spent  an  hour  on  the  sand  and 
among  the  rocks  hunting  for  shells  or  shell-fish.  Neither  I  nor  the  Mexican,  who  was  down 
with  me,  could  find  any  thing  except  old  shells,  inhabited  by  hermit  crabs.  Of  these  there 
W'cre  hundreds  running  over  the  sands,  hiding  under  every  loose  stone,  and  even  travelling 
into  the  bushes,  a  hundred  yards  from  the  water,  apparently  in  search  of  food.  Star-fishes 
and  actineas  were  abundant,  but  there  was  little  or  nothing  of  any  interest  to  a  concho- 
logist. 

On  the  22d  we  rode  twenty-three  miles,  partly  on  the  tables,  piirtly  on  the  hard  sand 
beach.  Our  ride  was  varied  by  but  few  incidents.  We  captured  a  turtle  on  the  beach,  but 
he  was  either  wounded  or  sick,  and,  as  we  could  not  determine  what  was  the  matter  with 
him,  we  threw  him  into  the  water.  He  was  so  weak  that  the  next  wave  turned  him  over  on 
his  back,  and  he  did  not  seem  able  to  resume  his  natural  position,  so  we  abandoned  him  to 
his  fate,  mourning  that  our  bright  visions  of  aldermanic  fare  had  come  to  so  untimely  an  end, 
before  we  had  hardly  had  time  to  realize  our  seeming  good  fortune.  But  we  were,  after  all, 
not  doomed  to  disappointment.  Within  half  a  mile  of  the  turtle,  a  band  of  three  or  four 
black-tail  deer  crossed  a  little  hill  in  ailvanco  of  us.  I  dismounted,  followed  them  on  foot, 
and,  before  the  pack-mules  were  fairly  unloaded,  I  was  standing  exultiugly  over  a  fine  fat 
buck  kicking  in  his  death-struggles  within  three  luindred  yards  of  the  camp.  He  made  a  wel- 
come addition  to  our  larder,  for  the  cook  had  just  announced  the  melancholy  intelligence 
that  wo  were  entirely  out  of  fresh  meat. 

On  Wednesday,  the  23d,  our  route  lay  inland  mostly  on  the  low  tables,  except  a  couple  of 
miles  across  a  piece  of  bottom,  known  as  the  Arroyo  Guadalupe.  This  word  arrot/o,  meaning 
strictly  the  bed  of  a  stream,  is  applied  in  Lower  California  to  any  place  in  which  water  runs, 
whether  it  be  a  deep  ravine  or  canon,  a  ))road  open  valley  or  caiiada,  or  a  mere  gutter. 
The  Arroyo  (ruadalupe  is  at  least  two  miles  wide,  and  what  should  be  i)roperly  called  the 
arroyo  is  perhaps  ten  feet  wide.  There  is  no  water  in  the  valley,  but  the  line  of  mesquit  and 
willow-trees,  and  the  numerous  patches  of  very  green  grass,  show  that  water  had  either  been 
there  until  very  recently,  or  that  there  was  considerable  moisture  in  the  soil.  Leaving  this 
valley,  crossing  a  very  rocky  but  narrow  range  of  hiWii,  and  picking  our  way  among  angular 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  91 

fra;;nionts  of  volcanic  rocks,  wo  rcachcil  the  A^ua  Coloiada  or  Red  Water,  so  named  from 
the  color  of  the  rocks.  We  made  in  all  about  tweaty-six  miles,  but  they  were  long  ones  and 
tiresome,  due  partly  to  the  heat  of  the  sun,  and  not  a  little  to  the  broken  and  rocky  nature  of 
the  ground  over  which  we  had  come.  We  camped  beside  the  water,  which  was  good,  and  our 
mules,  hoppled  and  turned  loose,  had  their  choice  between  browsing  on  the  mestiuit-lrees  over- 
head or  eating  the  grass,  excelleut  thougli  scattered,  which  they  could  pick  up  among  the 
bushes. 

Our  camp  was  about  a  mile  from  the  ranch-house,  and  we  received  several  calls  in  the 
course  of  the  evening  from  the  men  belonging  to  the  place. 

They  appeared  to  know  perfectly  well  who  we  were,  and  what  was  our  object  in  travelling 
through  the  country.  In  fact,  they  had  been  expecting  us  for  several  days.    Even  here,  where       jy, 
mails  and  newspapers  are  unknown,  and  where  not  one  person  in   a  dozen  can  read,  they  ap-     i 
pear  to  keep  as  well  posted  in  the  news  as  are  the  people  in  the  rural  districts  of  oar  owa 
country. 

Throughout  the  whole  journey  we  never  found  a  spot  so  retired  but  that,  when  we 
reached  it,  we  found  that  our  coming  was  expected,  and  our  business  known.  The  next  J 
morning,  the  24th,  we  passed  the  house  as  we  started  out,  stopping  a  few  moments  to  see' 
their  well  and  ponil.  It  proved  to  be  merely  a  large  water-hole,  where  the  proximity  of  the 
surface  of  a  hard  rock  stratum  keeps  a  constant  supply  of  pretty  good  water,  a  portion 
really  of  a  subterranean  stream.  It  is  such  ponds  as  this  that  enables  people  to  travel  at  all 
in  this  country,  and  not  unfrequently  will  the  road  diverge  ten  miles  from  its  direct  course 
to  pass  by  one.     The    water-holes   of  Agua  Colorada  are  a  fair   illustration  ;    the  nearest 

water  southward  being miles  distant,  while  to  the  northward  the  nearest  water  is 

miles  off. 

At  the  house,  we  were  surprised  at  being  addressed  with  a  civil  "  Good-morning,  gentle- 
men," in  excellent  English,  by  a  bare-footed,  very  ragged  individual,  whose  countenance,  un- 
necessarily black,  with  flat  nose  and  thick  lips,  siiowed  at  a  glance  that  he  was  not  of  Mexi- 
can or  of  Indian  origin ;  his  curiy  but  not  woolly  hair  seemed  to  imply  that  he  was  not  an 
AiVican,  nor  did  he  look  like  a  Kanaka.  He  soon  told  us  his  story.  He  was  a  runaway  sailor, 
spoke  but  little  Spanish,  had  reached  here  on  his  way  to  Comondu,  where  he  claimed  to 
have  a  friend.  The  Mexicans  urged  him  not  to  undertake  the  trip,  because,  alone  and  on 
foot  as  lie  was,  and  ignorant  of  the  many  trails  that  cross  the  plains  of  the  Magdalena  in  all 
directions,  the  chances  were  almost  certain  that  he  would  perish  from  thirst.  Even  Mexicans, 
born  in  the  country,  but  unacquainted  with  these  plains,  do  not  dare  to  venture  it  without  a 
guide  ;  and  many  a  thrilling  story  is  told,  by  the  flickering  light  of  the  camp-fires,  of  men  be- 
wildered in  this  sea  of  cactus,  who,  after  almost  incredible  sufferings,  have  only  escaped  with 
their  lives  to  tell  their  tales  of  horror.  Many  a  poor  wretch  has  left  his  bones,  picked  clean  by 
the  coyotes,  to  tell  that  he,  unable  to  find  his  way  out,  had  died  from  that  most  terrible  of  tor- 
tures— thirst.  Our  dusky  friend,  however,  did  not  appear  to  dread  such  a  difficulty,  and  re-  • 
plied,  with  a  little  tone  of  pride  in  his  voice,  that  he  was  an  Australian  Ijushman,  and  had  been 
used  to  such  things  all  his  life.  He  did  not  think  the  risk  would  be  very  great  for  him,  and 
thought  "  he  could  get  along."  Sure  enough,  that  same  evening,  almost  before  we  had  be- 
come fairly  settled  in  our  camp,  twenty-four  miles  oft",  he  came  along,  his  whole  baggage  con- 
sisting of  a  quart  bottle.  He  stayed  an  hour  or  so,  got  something  to  eat,  refilled  his  bot- 
tle with  water,  and  started  off  again.  The  last  we  saw  of  him  was  at  the  Salada,  near  Mag- 
dalena Bay,  where  he  had  contracteil  to  work  for  a  neighboring  ranchero  for  a  v/hilc,  and 
where,  as  he  informed  us,  he  had  already  estabUshed  "  relations  "  with  one  of  the  old  man's 
daughters. 

i'rom  the  Agua  Colorada  to  the  next  water  the  country  is  very  uniform.  We  rode  24 
miles  over  dry,  gravelly,  and  in  places  rocky  mesas,  occasionally  intersected  by  dry  water- 
courses, until  we  found  a  spot  where  grass  was  more  than  usually  abiuidant.  We  here  made 
a  camp,  a  day's  journey  from  a  drop  of  water.  Our  mules  had  drunk  all  they  wanted  in  the 
morning,  and  were  doomeil  to  wait  until  the  next  afternoon  for  their  next  supply.  Fuel  was 
rather  scarce.  We  were  obliged  to  burn  the  woody  skeletons  of  cactus,  which,  although  they 
make  a  hot  tire,  require  that  the  collectors  shall  exert  considerable  industry  and  activity  to 
keep  up  the  supply. 

Bright  and  early  the  next  morning  we  were  in  the  saddle,  and  by  noon  we  reached'  the 
water-hole  of  La  Talma,  probably  so  named  because  there  is  not  a  single  palm  in  sight. 
Stopping  only  long  enough  to  water  our  thirsty  animals,  we  proceeded  to  La  Salada,  six  miles 
from  the  shore  of  Magdalena  Bay.  The  last  four  or  five  miles  was  along  a  i)retty  bottcmi 
with  luxuriant  grass  and  a  perfect  thicket  of  mesquit,  while,  as  a  special  treat,  we  had  but 
very  little  cactus.  Along  this  bottom  are  ranches  every  mile  or  two,  tiie  Salada  being  the 
one  nearest  the  coast.  At  the  latter  is  a  large  pond,  sometimes  of  fresh  water,  but  at  tlie 
time  of  our  visit  so  salt  from  the  influx  of  the  tide  as  to  lie  useless.  We  obtained  water  by 
digging  wells  in  the  sand  along  its  margin.  The  sides  of  the  arroyo  here  are  very  abrupt, 
and  expose  a  section  of  nearly  GO  feet  thick  of  horizontally  stratified  sandstones,  the  upper 
beds  of  which  are  highly  calcareous,  and  are  filled  with  casts  of  living  species  of  shells,  the 
most  common  of  whicii  is  the  large  Acapuico  oyster  {().  (Jummmgu). 

Ou  the  26th  the  whole  party  made  an  excursion  to  the  shore  of  the  bav.    The  mesa  falls 


92  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AXD 

rapidly  to  near  the  beach,  and  is  bounded  bj-  a  belt  of  low,  barren  sand-hills.     We  signalled  a 
couple  of  whalers  lying  out  in  the  bay,  and  amused  ourselves  collecting  clams  in  the  sand. 

Finally  one  of  the  captains  came  ashore,  and  Mr.  Browne  made  arrangements  with  him 
for  the  use  of  his  boat  to  make  some  explorations  of  the  bay  by  water.  From  the  single 
point  from  which  we  saw  it,  the  bay  seems  to  be  tis  large,  commodious,  and  nearly  as  well 
protected,  as  the  harbor  of  San  Francisco.  Mr.  Browne's  opportunities  for  examination,  how- 
ever, having  been  so  much  better  than  mine,  I  shall  undertake  no  description,  feeling  con- 
fident he  will  do  the  subject  full  justice. 

Returning  iu  the  afternoon,  we  completed  our  arrangements  for  separation,  and  in  the 
morning  of  the  27th  Mr.  Browne  and  Dr.  Wiss  left  us,  charged  with  a  multiplicity  of  mes- 
sages to  our  friends,  while  we  remained  in  camp  writing  letters  and  oppressed  with  an  un- 
pleasant feeling  that  we  were  saying  good-by  to  the  outside  world  for  two  or  three  months. 
This  feeling  was  in  the  main  produced,  or  at  least  heightened,  by  the  feet  that  all  the  diffi- 
culties, discomforts,  and  dangers  of  the  country  before  us  had  been  exaggerated  to  such  an 
absurd  degree,  that  we  almost  dreaded  to  enter  it.  But  even  such  a  preparation  has  its  ad- 
vantages. The  troubles  resolutely  faced,  proved  to  be  such  trifles,  compared  with  what  our 
overwrought  imaginations  had  pictured  them,  that  we  were  kept  throughout  in  an  almost 
chronic  condition  of  agreeable  disappointment. 

On  Monday  morning,  January  2Sth,  leaving  our  letters  and  last  good-by  for  our  com- 
panions with  Manuel,  the  Doctor's  servant,  we  found  ourselves  fairly  embarked  on  our  jour- 
ney. Our  party  consisted  of  Mr.  Loher  and  myself,  constituting  the  scientific  corps;  Cor- 
nelius Ironmonger,  who  presided  over  the  pots  and  kettles,  and  whose  fort  was  to  surprise 
not  only  the  natives,  but  ourselves  not  seldom,  by  his  accounts  of  the  wonders  that  could  be 
achieved  by  the  great  Yankee  nation ;  Jesus,  our  guide,  one  of  "  Nature's  noblemen,"  and  a 
man  who,  although  a  Mexican,  could  be  trusted  to  do  his  duty  without  watching ;  and,  lastly, 
Domingo,  who  never  did  any  thing  without  being  told,  and  then  only  half  did  it.  We  rode 
18  miles  over  the  same  level  mesa,  covered  occasionally  with  stones  and  supporting  a  thick 
growth  of  cactus,  camping  at  the  rancho  of  Buena  Vista.  Almost  the  first  inquiry  made  of 
us  was  whether  any  one  of  the  party  was  a  "medico,"  or  had  any  "remcdios."  Having  some 
simple  remedies  in  my  saddle-bags,  I  inquired  what  was  the  matter.  The  old  man  had  rheu- 
matism, his  wife  was  constipated,  a  boy  had  a  stitch  in  the  side,  but  the  girls,  of  whom  there 
were  several,  and  not  ugly  either,  were  all  alarmingly  healthy.  I  gave  the  father  a  counter- 
irritant,  the  mother  a  heavy  dose  of  podophylline,  and  let  the  boy  take  care  of  himself.  On 
the  strength  of  this  little  incident,  I  at  once  acquired  the  reputation  of  a  great  "medico," 
which  preceded  us  all  the  way  to  the  frontiers,  and  on  several  occasions  was  of  considerable 
service  to  us,  enabling  us  to  procure  supplies  of  fresh  meat  through  gratitude  where  money 
would  have  been  useless. 

Thursday,  29th,  rode  18  miles  to  a  camp  where  we  had  excellent  grass  and  plenty  of  wood, 
but  no  water.  Started  as  late  as  we  dared,  so  as  to  give  the  mules  a  chance  to  drink  as  late 
as  possible  in  the  day,  and  then  rode  up  the  arroyo,  filling  our  barrels  at  the  last  water.  On 
the  way  we  stopped  at  a  little  rancho  belonging  to  another  "  compadre  "  of  Jesus.  I  am  at 
a  loss  to  account  for  the  great  number  of  compadres  and  comadres  claimed  by  our  guide. 
Either  he  is  a  very  popular  man  with  his  countrymen,  or  they  have  great  confidence  in  his 
piety,  and  for  that  reason  choose  him  as  godfather  to  their  children,  or,  as  I  strongly  suspect, 
he  may  be  guilty,  at  times,  of  inventing  this  convenient  relationship  for  the  occasion.  The 
presence  of  a  very  pretty  young  girl,  and  the  cordial  manner  of  his  reception  at  this  place, 
would  have  been  excuse  sufficient,  were  the  last  surmise  correct.  We  succeeded  here  in 
.-  V.  replenishing  our  stock  of  tobacco,  which  had  begun  to  get  alarmingly  low,  and  went  on  our 
»/yr  ;(,'  w'ay  rejoicing.  For  the  last  mile  and  a  half  the  sandstones  showed  considerable  disturbance, 
.  1^  V  lA  striking  to  nearly  all  the  points  of  the  compass,  and  often  standing  almost  vertically. 
Y         jt/l)  On  the  30th  we  travelled  17  miles,  passing  the  old  mission  of  San  Luis  Gonzago,  where 

J  ,t^'h         we  stopped  an  hour  to  allow  Mr.  Liiher  to  take  a  latitude  observation.     ^Vhile  he  was  thus 
engaged,  I  anuiscd  myself  by  making  a  sketch  of  the  mission  buildings.     The  church  is  very 
small,  but  in  excellent  preservation.     It  is  built  entirely  of  stone,  roof  and  all.     Xot  a  piece 
of  wood  enters  into  its  construction,  except  in  the  door.     The  roof,  like  most  of  the  better  of 
the  mission  churches,  is  an  arch  of  stone.     Except  in  the  two  towers,  which  answer  also  for 
belfries,  little  or  no  labor  was  wasted  on  ornament :  the  builders  having  an  evident  eye  to 
,the  useful  rather  than  the  ornamental.     The  fine  comfortable  house,  formerly,  no  doubt,  oc- 
'  cupicd  l)y  the  padres,  is  now  iuhabited  by  a  family  who  have  quite  a  number  of  horses  and 
cattle,  and  who  culivate  an  acre  or  two  of  garden  here.     The  water  comes  to  the  surfece  and) 
runs  along  the  arroyo  over  a  roclvy  bed  for  a  few  hundred  yards.    A  dam  has  been  constructed^ 
■j   and  the  water  thus  obtained  is  turned  ofl"  in  ditches  to  irrigate  a  little  patch  of  peas,  beansj 
maize,  and  onions,  all  of  which  were  flourishing  nicely  and  promising  a  good  crop/  The  disturb^ 
r  ance  of  the  sandstone  noticed  the  day  l)efore  continued  To  withiu  a  mile  of  San  Luis,  where  it 
culminated  in  the  appearance  of  a  large  dike  of  white  porphyry  and  with  crystals  of  glassy  feld- 
spar.    This  continues  beyond  San  Luis,  and  is  the  cause  of  the  appearance  of  the  water  in  the 
arroyo.     Farther  on   our  road  we  encountered  innumerable,  small  dikes  projecting  through 
the  soft  sand-stones,  and  only  disturbing  them  for  a  few  yards   on  each  side.     The  general 
strike  of  these  dikes  is  almost  due  north   and  south.     These  sandstones  contain  in  some 


^ 


EXPLORATIOX    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  93 

places  large  numbers  of  rouiuletl,  water-worn  boulders  of  volcanic  rocks,  which  at  times 
make  almost  the  t'Utire  bulk  of  some  of  the  beds.  Our  camp  was  at  an  uninhabited  place, 
called  the  "  ranchito,"  or  littlt  rancho.  A  house  and  a  band  of  cattle  showed  possession, 
but,  from  the  ap|)earanee  of  the  liouse,  it  seemed  to  have  been  a  long  time  v.  ithout  occupants. 
Wc  had  excellent  grass,  witli  plenty  of  wood,  and  good  water  in  a1)undance. 

Tweutj'-thrcc  miles  to  the  Cerritos,  another  little  rancho  by  a  water-hole,  constituted  our 
next  day's  travel.  About  six  miles  from  the  ranchito  we  entered  a  beautiful  valley,  contain- 
ing about  a  thousand  acres  of  tlie  finest  grass,  with  little  or  no  cactus,  with  plenty  of  wood, 
and  only  reipiiring  water  to  make  it  an  extremely  desirable  spot  for  a  rancho.  Tiie  soil  is 
excellent,  and  all  the  surrounding  hills  support  a  good  growth  of  grass  among  the  bushes. 
From  the  nearly  horizontal  stratification  of  the  underlying  rocks,  and  tlie  appearance  of  water 
on  the  surface  wherever  a  volcanic  dike  cuts  across  a  water-course,  tiiere  is  no  reasonable, 
doubt  but  that  wells  here  of  judicious  depth  would  yield  a  constant  supply  of  water.  It  is  a  / 
spot  that  will,  without  doubt,  be  pounced  upon  some  day  by  an  enterprising  foreigner, 
who  will  turn  it  to  good  account.  There  is  no  fear  that  any  Mexican  will  ever  take  the 
trouble.  From  this  valley  to  the  camp  the  trail  raif  over  an  undulating  country,  mostly  clothed-J 
with  an  abundance  of  grass,  growing  among  the  stones  and  cactus.  Horses  and  cattle  were 
seen  at  times  grazing  quietly,  until,  catching  a  sight  of  our  caravan,  they  would  dash  off  like 
frightened  deer. 

About  15  miles  from  the  Cerritos  is  the  rancho  of  Jesus  Maria;  and  on  the  1st  of  Febru- 
ary we  rode  past  this  place,  camping  in  a  rocky  arroyo  about  three  miles  beyond.  Our  route 
lay  all  day  over  horizontal  mesas,  cut  by  innumerable  water-courses.  Tlie  sides  were  gen- 
erally rather  abrupt,  and  the  stratification  of  the  sandstones  was  bcautifidly  exhibited.  The 
surface  of  these  tables  was  almost  everywhere  covered  by  rounded  volcanic  boiilders,  left 
there  by  the  disintegration  and  washing  away  of  the  soft  sandstones  in  wliich  they  had  been 
imbedded.  la  som;;  places  also  were  flakes  of  selenite,  or  transparent  crystallized  gypsum, 
left  there  by  the  same  process. 

Saturday,  2d,  we  rode  about  six  leagues,  18  miles,  mostly  between  higlier  table-hills  of 
the  arroyo  of  Santa  Cruz.  We  had  been  working  toward  the  eastern  side  of  the  peninsula 
during  the  whole  week,  and  had  now  gotten  to  where  the  country  was  perhaps  nearly  2,000  feet 
high.  Tlie  rocks  still  dipped  with  an  almost  imperceptible  inclination  to  the  west  and  southwest, 
and  the  summits  of  the  tables,  now  good-sized  mountains,  retained  a  constant  parallelism 
with  the  constituent  stratification. 

We  camped  still  on  the  western  water-shed,  about  500  feet  below  the  summit  of  the  tables. 

The  table-land  is  cut  into  an  infinitude  of  fragments  by  the  deep  caiions  which  drain  it, 
most  of  the  fragments  being  long  and  narrow,  and  ranged  parallel,  like  the  teeth  of  a  comb, 
and  pointing  toward  the  west  coast.  Lateral  branches  of  the  streams  have  in  many  instances 
cut  off  fragments,  which  thus  stand  isolated  from  the  main  mass,  sometimes  as  sharp  cones, 
and  in  other  cases  as  large  unbroken  tracts  of  level  lanil.  On  nearing  the  east  side  of  the 
peninsula,  the  fragments  of  volcanic  rocks  included  in  tlie  sandstones  become  larger  and  less 
water-worn,  many  blocks  of  two  and  three  feet  in  diameter  being  found,  with  their  angles  as 
sharp  as  if  they  had  been  just  broken  ofl'  from  the  parent  mass. 

We  remained  in  this  camp  over  Sunday,  giving  our  animals  a  day's  rest,  with  pretty  good 
grass  to  feed  on,  while  we  spent  the  day  under  the  shade  of  the  mesrpiit-trees,  repairing  the 
various  rents  in  our  clothing,  incidental  to  continued  travel  among  the  thorns,  and  in  specu- 
lating on  what  was  going  on  in  the  outside  world,  from  which  we  were  now  as  completely 
separated  as  if  we  had  been  on  some  desert  isle  in  the  wide  Pacific.  Some  time  after  dark, 
on  Saturday  evening,  a  man  with  a  peculiar-looking  hump  on  one  shoulder,  rode  into  our 
camp,  and,  in  an  odd  kind  of  a  voice,  asked  us  a  variety  of  questions  as  to  who  we  were, 
where  we  were  going,  and  what  we  were  doing.  He  declined  our  invitation  to  dismount, 
saying  he  had  come  from  a  rancho  in  the  mountains  off  to  one  side  of  our  trail,  and  was  go- 
ing to  Loreto  to  get  some  medicine  for  a  sick  man.  After  questioning  us  to  his  entire  satis- 
faction, and  convincing  himself  that  we  were  what  we  represented  ourselves  to  be,  he  sud- 
denly straightened  himself  up  in  his  saddle,  the  hump  disappeared  from  his  back,  he  pushed 
his  hat  back  from  his  face,  and  his  voice  assuming  a  nattiral  tone,  he  laughingly  told  us  all 
he  had  said  before  was  a  lie.  lie  was  a  servant  at  the  adjoining  rancho  of  Santa  Cruz,  and 
he  had  come  down  to  find  out  who  we  were.  There  was  a  report  that  Senor  Larraque,  the 
sub-prefect  of  Molejo,  was  out  on  a  man-hunting  expedition,  to  impress  soldiers  to  send  to 
the  other  side,  and  everybody  was  on  the  qui  viuc  to  cut  and  run  at  the  first  alarm.  Be- 
coming satisfied  that,  at  least  in  that  respect,  we  were  harmless,  he  became  very  communi- 
cative, and  gave  us  a  very  detailed  account  of  the  road  to  Loreto,  this  being  a  region  with 
which  our  guide  was  not  acquainted.  Before  he  l^FTWe  commissioned  him  to  bring  us  some 
eggSj^  chickens,  and  cheese.  Next  morning  he  returned  loaded  with  commodities  for  sale, 
iucluinng  ii  bbTrlTr-TTf-Tmlk.  We  bought  all  he  had,  until  he  came  to  the  chicken,  an  old 
hen,  for  which  he  wanted  a  dollar.  The  usual  price  for  chickens  bc'ng  three  reales,  we  ob- 
jected, asking  him  if  he  supposed  he  was  trading  with  fools.  He  declared  he  liad  no  discre- 
tion ill  the  matter,  the  chicken' belonged  to  the  "patron,"  and  if  he  sold  it  for  less  he  would 
have  to  pay  the  difference,  or  take  a  beating,  or  perhaps  both.  We  tlicn  told  him  to  take  it 
back  ;  then  he  asked  for  permission  to  leave  it  with  us  until  his  return,  since  he  was  going  to 


94  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

hunt  some  cattle.  He  afterward  came  back  to  our  camp  three  times,  each  time  falling  a 
little  in  his  price,  each  time  receiving  the  same  answer,  "  I  will  ^ive  you  three  reales  ;  if  j-ou 
want  that,  take  it ;  if  not,  take  your  chicken  away,"  until  at  last  he  said,  "  If  you  won't 
give  any  more,  take  the  chicken  for  three  reales,  but  give  me  a  little  tobacco."  From  the 
first  the  scamp  did  not  expect  to  receive  more,  but  we  were  strangers,  and  he  was  only  doing 
like  anybody  else.  In  Mexico  foreigners  are  always  considered  fair  game,  and  the  only  way 
to  avoid  extortion  is  to  learn  the  tariff;  never  ask,  "How  much  do  you  charge?  "  but  always 
.  Say,  "  If  you  have  so  and  so  to  sell  at  such  a  price,  I  will  take  it."  They  universally  ask 
more  than  they  expect  to  get,  and  fall  to  the  regular  price. 

On  Monday  morning,  February  4th,  we  started  up  the  arroyo,  and  travelled  all  day  ovei" 
very  rocky  ground.  The  whole  distance  accomplished  was  but  19  miles,  of  which  the  first 
14  were  nearly  all  up-hill,  a  very  gradual  ascent.  This  took  us  to  the  summit  of  the  range 
which,  at  the  point  where  v/e  crossed,  was  quite  narrow,  but  perfectly  level.  From  the  summit 
the  whole  aspect  of  the  country  is  changed.  It  no  longer  seems  like  a  rolling,  hilly  country, 
with  innumerable  flat-topped  mountains.  It  now  becomes  an  immense  plain,  cut  up  by  huge 
caiions  of  almost  unfathomable  depth. 

This  appearance  extends,  to  the  west  and  south,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  To  the 
northwest,  however,  where  the  rocks  are  highly  metamorphosed,  the  contour  of  the  range  is 
changed.  The  tables  disappear  near  the  summit,  and  in  their  stead  the  crest  is  M-eathered 
into  the  most  fantastic  outlines,  which,  continuing  northward  a  hundred  miles,  produce  in 
the  Sierra  gigantic  irregularity  of  form — perhaps  unsurpassed  by  any  range  of  mountains 
on  the  west  coast.  It  is  the  more  remarkable  that  these  mountains  should  be  so  irregular  on 
tlieir  eastern  crest,  when  we  consider  that  they  are  composed  entirely  of  horizontal  stratified 
rocks,  and  that,  within  a  mile  or  two  of  this  crest,  they  degenerate  into  an  almost  perfectly 
level  mesa,  sloping  thence  to  the  plains  on  the  west  coast,  without  a  break,  except  where 
the  winter  rains  have  cut  their  deep  and  narrow  channels  in  almost  parallel  lines. 

From  the  head  of  the  arroyo  of  Santa  Cruz  the  ro;id  traverses  the  table  for  a  few  hun- 
dred yards,  and  then  commences  to  wind  down  the  side  of  another  arroyo  that  opens  to  the 
eastward.  This  descent  had  been  described  to  us  as  a  "  little  longish,  and  a  little  stony." 
We  found  it  five  miles  long,  and  so  full  of  large,  angular,  and  loose  pieces  of  rock,  that  we  all 
felt  like  giving  vent  to  a  sigh  of  relief  when  we  reached  the  bottom,  without  a  broken  bone  in 
the  party,  and  without  having  lost  a  mule.  We  camped  directly  at  the  base  of  the  descent, 
by  the  side  of  some  water-holes  in  the  rocks,  known  as  the  "  tinaja,"  or  jar.  The  water  was 
good  and  abundant,  but  can  hardly  be  permanent,  inasmuch  as  it  is  only  what  remains  from 
the  winter  rains  in  pot-holes  in  the  granite ;  and,  doubtless,  after  one  or  two  dry  years,  it 
must  become  exhausted  by  use  and  evaporation.  At  the  time  of  our  visit  there  were  proba- 
bly in  the  half  a  dozen  holes  about  five  to  eight  hundred  gallons.  We  had  here  plenty  of 
wood,  and  a  sufficiency  of  grass,  on  the  steep  hill-side.  As  we  discovered,  the  next  day, 
we  would  have  done  better  to  have  watered  our  animals,  and  have  gone  a  mile  or  two  farther, 
where  there  is  a  nice  little  valley,  with  an  abundance  of  grass,  and  without  rocks. 

On  the  5th  we  followed  this  valley  down  to  the  coast,  some  three  or  four  miles  distant, 
and  then  travelled  up  the  coast,  sometimes  on  the  beach,  sometimes  behind  the  sand-hills, 
and  occasionally  across  the  end  of  a  spur  of  tlie  hills  to  a  lagoon  in  a  beautiful  little  valley. 
Almost  all  the  land  passed  in  this  day's  ride  is  susceptible  of  cultivation.  It  is  a  rich  soil, 
covered  with  a  dense  growth  of  shrubbery  and  cactus,  and  almost  entirely  without  stones. 
Water  is  easily  obtained  by  Avells,  and  is  of  a  good  quality.  At  the  Chuenea  rancho,  the 
only  inhabited  spot  we  passed,  and  which  differs  in  no  respect  from  the  rest  of  this  tract, 
there  are  a  couple  of  weils,  10  or  15  feet  deep,  and  yielding  an  abundance  of  sweet,  cold 
water. 

From  Chuenea  we  passed,  by  a  very  rugged  trail,  around  the  end  of  a  high  hill,  in  places 
so  steep  that  a  false  step  would  have  thrown  mule  and  rider  two  or  three  hundred  feet  into 
the  boiling  surf  below.  Directly  after  passing  this  point  we  descended  into  the  head  of  a 
long,  narrow  valley,  which  runs  parallel  with  the  coast  two  or  three  miles,  separated  only  by 
a  low,  rocky  ridge.  Here  we  made  camp  by  the  side  of  a  lake,  the  result  of  last  winter's 
rains. 

After  supper,  leaving  the  Mexicans,  Mr.  Lcilier,  the  cook,  and  myself,  started  to  cross  the 
hill  to  the  beach.  We  went  part  way,  and,  giving  it  up  as  unprofitable,  returned,  having 
worked  for  an  liour  and  a  half,  and  not  having  accomplished  in  all  more  than  half  a  mile  of 
climbing,  and  fighting  our  way  over  rocks,  and  through  cactus.  Poor  Ironmonger  hobbled 
back  in  a  dolorous  plight  as  usual ;  through  one  finger-nail  he  had  a  pitahaya-thorn,  while 
another  pinned  his  boot  to  his  feet ;  he  was  always  in  trouble,  and  declared  he  never  could 
touch  a  piece  of  fire-wood  without  finding  a  cactus-spine  lying  in  wait  for  him  underneath. 
There  is  no  doubt  but  what  the  pitahaya  agave  is  a  great  incentive  to  profanity. 
y^  "  From  the  "  Laguna"  we  rode  fifteen  miles  along  a  fertile,  level  tract  to  Loreto.  Several 
-/  /  spots,  where  natural  bodies  of  fresh  water  exist,  are  occupied  ;  and  in  one  canon,  coming 
down  from  the  mountains,  there  is  a  large  and  flourishing  orange-plantation,  which  sends 
annually  an  entire  schooner-load  of  oranges  to  San  Francisco. 

There  is  no  reason  why,  with  American  energy,  the  whole  tract,  from  Loreto  to  the 
Tinaja,  should  not  be  a  continuous  garden.     Good  water  can  be  obtained  everywhere— wells 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  95 

are  from  three  to  five  yards  deep,  and  inexhaustible  windmills  supply  all  the  necessary 
pumpitii;  power ;  and  there  is  no  fruit  or  vegetable,  eitlier  tropical  or  temperate,  that  cannot 
grow  here  in  the  oiieti  air.  Cabbages  and  cotton,  lettuce  and  tobacco,  wheat,  maize,  and 
onions,  were  all  growing  together  in  a  garden  in  Loreto,  while  the  castor  bean,  or  "  palma 
cristi,''  here  a  perennial  plant,  a  large  tree,  with  a  woody  trunk,  was  flanked  by  the  date-palm 
and  banana.  The  gray-green  oftlie  olive  trees  was  relieved  by  the  dark,  glossy  foliage  of  the 
orange  and  lemon,  their  limbs  bending  under  their  treasure  of  golden  fruit,  and  the  vineyards 
here  produce  a  wine  imecjualled  by  any  of  the  wines  of  Upper  California.  Several  ports 
and  good  anchorages  cxfst  along  this  part  of  the  coast ;  the  best  of  which  is  the  "  Puerto 
Escondido,"  or  hidden  port,  a  beautiful  little  bay,  or  rather  lake,  completely  land-locked, 
and  deep  enough  for  schooners  of  average  size.  This  bay  is  often  used  by  the  people  of 
Loreto,  when  vessels  dare  not  lie  at  their  anchorage. 

The  town  of  Loreto,  the  ancient  capital  of  the  two  Californias,  is  a  little  straggling  vil-/ 
lage  of  adobe  houses,  mostly  thatched  with  palm-leaves.  The  site  was  very  badly  chosSfi; 
being  directly  aside  of  a  water-course,  often  dry  for  several  years,  but  which,  after  a  heavy 
rain  in  the  mountains,  is  apt  to  become,  in  an  hour  or  two,  a  frightful  torrent.  From  time  to 
time  portions  of  the  town  have  liecn  destroyed,  and  the  remains  carried  off  by  this  stream, 
and  now  neaidy  all  that  remains  of  the  old  town  is  the  mission  church  and  its  adjoining 
buildings.  The  church  has  been  deserted  for  many  years,  except,  perhaps,  for  some  passing 
priest,  who  may  make  an  occasional  visit  to  marry  and  confess  those  who  have  an  inclina- 
tion that  way.  Xo  regular  services  have  been  held  here,  nor,  in  fact,  in  any  of  the  missions 
north  of  this,  for  so  long  a  time,  that  many  of  the  people  would  make  good  subjects  for  the 
proselyting  efforts  of  a  new  set  of  missionaries. 

In  Loreto,  however,  they  are  still  near  enough  to  the  centres  of  civilization,  so  that  they 
are  not  completely  heathenized  yet,  and  the  church,  though  little  used,  is  in  pretty  good 
repair.  It  is  a  large  stone  structure,  with  an  arched  roof,  and  a  round  dome  of  stone  at  the 
upper  end.  All  the  pictures  tliat  wore  uninjured  were  taken  away  in  18G2,  by  order  of  the 
Government ;  but  those  that  were  left  behind,  together  with  other  remaining  ornaments,  tes- 
tify to  the  richness  if  not  the  good  taste  exhibited  in  the  adornment  of  the  church  by  the 
worthy  padres. 

The  buildings  attached  to  the  church  in  the  form  of  an  L  on  one  side,  designed  for  the 
residences  of  the  priests,  for  granaries,  etc.,  share  in  the  ponderous  solidity  of  the  church 
itself;  and,  after  the  lapse  of  a  century  and  a  quarter,  are  still  in  perfect  repair,  except  in  the     ,      ^-  • 
single  item  of  the  aljsence  of  doors.     Of  the  remainder  of  the  town  but  little  can  be  said,' 
Three  or  four  good  houses  with  flat  roofs,  and  20  or  30  roughly -built  adobe  shanties  with 
thatched  roofs,  constitute,   with  the  church  and  its  buildings,  all  that  is  left  of  the  once      /*  (17 
[flourishing  city  of  Loreto.     The  population  of  the  place  was  estimated  by  Viosca  ia.  lSG2jto_  ' 
I  be  79.     It  certainly  appeared  to  me  to  contain  nearer  two  h.undred.     The  oiiTv  inference  that       ^  ;  • 
J  can  be  drawn  is,  that  the  popidation  has  really  increased,  since  JFr.  Y.,  who  was  over-sanguine      " 
'  in  everything  connected  with  the  territory,  would  not  be  guilty  of  under-estimating  the  num- 
ber  of  inhabitants.     The  port  is  an  open  bay,  nearly  semicircular,  and  open  to  the  east  and 
southeast."  Good  anchorage  exists  in  several  parts,  and  the  bay  is  considered  perfectly  safe 
for  a  large  part  of  the  year.     In  front  of  the  port  lies  Carmen  Island,  about  tweh  e  miles  dis- 
tant.    It  is  uninhabited  except  by  some  persons  engaged  in  collecting  the  salt  which  has 
rendered  the  island  so  famous.     It  is  twelve  or  fifteen  miles  long,  very  narrow,  and  without 
any  hills  of  importance.     Seen  from  the  mainland,  it  seems  to  be  composed  of  the  same 
nearly  horizontal  stratifieil  rocks  which  constitute  the  table-lands.     These  are  slightly  dis- 
turbe<l  on  tlie  southwest  side,  and  dip  very  regularly  and  gradually  to  the  northeast. 

In  Loreto  we  found  an  aged  Englishman,  Don  Tomas  Taylor,  an  old  resident,  and  one  of  the 
principal  men  of  the  place.  Mr.  Taylor  is  an  honorable  exception  among  the  foreign  resi- 
dents in  the  interior  of  the  country.  These  men,  principally  American,  are  as  a  general  thing' 
the  most  worthless,  lazy,  and  often  dishonest  men  who  can  be  found  in  the  country.  They  B'-cJ 
are  so  mean  tliat  they  cannot  live  at  home,  and  are  contented  to  hide  themselves,  principally 
out  of  tlie^  world,  and  live  despised  even  by  the  degraded  Mexicans  who  surround  them.  Jlr.  --t^v/: 
Taylor,  although  not  rich,  is,  in  the  sense  in  which  the  term  is  understood  here,  comfortable. 
He  is  married  to  a  native  of  the  country,  and  has  a  nice  little  family  growing  uj)  around 
him.  None  of  his  children  can  speak  English,  although  they  understand  it  to  some  extent. 
During  our  short  stay  in  the  town  we  received  every  attention  from  Jlr.  Taylor,  who  kindly 
placed  an  unoccupied  house  of  his  at  our  disposal,  and  who  when  we  left  furnished  us  with  let- 
ters of  introduction  to  various  friends  of  his  on  our  route. 

We  spent  two  days  here,  examining  the  geological  and  other  features  of  the  neighborhood, 
and  in  having  our  mules  shod.  It  was  in  this  vicinity  that  I  first  obtained  proofs  that  the 
nearly  horizontal  rocks  of  the  mesa  could  be  divided  into  two  distinct  formations.  The  older 
rocks  are  here  highly  metamorphosed,  the  metamorphic  action  first  exhibiting  itself  on  our  route 
at  Chuenca,  though  from  the  contour  of  the  country  it  doubtless  extends  some  miles  farther 
south,  inland.  They  here  also  contain  large  angular  blocks  of  volcanic  rocks,  and  some- 
times so  abundant  as  to  constitute  more  than  half  the  bulk  of  some  of  the  strata.  The  dip 
is  very  low,  but  constantly  toward  the  westward.  About  six  miles  northwest  from  the  town 
there  is  an  extensive  protrusion  of  volcanic  rocks,  and  lying  to  the  eastward  of  this  are 


96  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

sevpral  hills  made  up  of  loose-grained,  entirely  unaltered  post-pliocene  sandstones  abounding 
in  fossils,  and  dipping  at  high  angles  to  the  eastward.  I  afterward  found  these  post-pliocene 
beds  lying  unconformally  on  the  other  rocks  where  the  latter  were  very  much  disturbed. 

On  the  9th  we  rode  a  dozen  miles  to  a  place  called  Cresta  Blanca,  or  white  ridge,  camp- 
ing in  a  dry  arroyo,  with  plenty  of  good  grass  and  wood,  but  no  water.  We  found  the  plains 
north  of  Loreto  along  the  coast  somewhat  diflerent  from  what  they  are  on  the  other  side. 
The  good  soil  is  replaced  in  part  by  sand,  and  in  part  by  a  coarse  gravel  full  of  fragments  of 
volcanic  rocks.  After  striking  the  hills  the  post-pliocene  sandstones  continued  to  the  camp. 
Here  they  contained  sheets  of  selenite,  or  crystallized  gjpsum,  sometimes  as  much  as  an  inch 
thick.  The  next  day  we  travelled  15  miles  to  the  rancho  of  San  Juan,  still  along  the  same 
geological  formation,  and  camped  about  half  a  mile  from  the  house,  in  the  edge  of  a  willow 
and  mesquit  thicket,  by  the  side  of  a  good  pond  of  water.  From  here  we  went  the  next  morn- 
ing to  the  port  of  San  Bruno,  and  in  the  afternoon  to  the  plains  of  San  Juan.  The  port  is 
small  and  open,  but  is  said  to  contain  good  anchorages.  The  plain  back  of  it  is  several  miles 
long,  the  soil  nearly  all  of  excellent  quality,  and  covered  with  a  dense  growth  of  grass.  The 
plain  of  San  Juan  lying  north  of  this,  and  separated  by  a  hill  about  a  thousand  feet  high,  is 
of  a  similar  character,  except  that  it  contains  almost  no  bushes  or  cactus,  and  is  excellent 
grass  land.  All  the  foot  hills  and  rolling  ground  at  the  head  of  the  valley  are  covered  with 
mesquit  and  hpua,  two  trees  which  never  suffer  from  drought,  and  on  which  horses  and  cat- 
tle feed  as  freely  as  on  grasses.  On  the  rancho  of  San  Juan  is  an  old  stone  ruin,  said  to  have 
been  built  for  a  chapel  of  the  missionaries,  and  it  is  claimed  that  this  was  intended  as  the 
site  of  the  mission  which  was  afterward  located  at  Loreto.  The  story  runs  that  the  padres 
were  on  their  way  to  this  place,  which  had  been  prepared  beforehand,  when,  as  they  reached 
the  present  site  of  Loreto,  the  mule  that  was  bearing  the  image  of  the  Virgin  miraculously 
stumbled  and  fell,  throwing  the  image  to  the  ground.  This  event  was  accepted  as  an  intima- 
tion of  the  Virgin's  desire  to  locate  here,  which  was  accordingly  done.  From  a  comparison 
of  the  two  localities,  I  am  inclined  to  think  that  she  or  the  mule  showed  very  bad  taste,  but 
tastes  differ.  Xext  day  we  rode  to  the  Sance  copper-mine,  near  the  base  of  the  Sierra  Gigan- 
tea.  On  this  day's  ride  we  had  a  greater  variety  in  the  geology  than  in  any  one  day  pre- 
viously since  starting.  From  the  alluvial  bottom,  bounded  on  one  side  by  upiilted  raetamorphic 
rocks,  overlaid  by  horizontal  trachytes,  we  entered  an  arroyo  in  horizontal  beds  of  post- 
pliocene  abounding  in  fossils ;  these  abut  against  metamorphic  sandstones  dipping  to  the 
northeast  at  an  angle  of  35^.  This  rock,  afterward  horizontal,  abuts  against  a  mass  of  granite 
which  is  three  or  four  miles  long  and  a  mile  wide,  forming  the  base  of  this  portion  of  the 
Gigantca,  and  vv-hich  is  again  overlaid  on  the  west  side  by  the  same  metamorphic  rocks  cap- 
ped by  volcanic.  The  volcanic  rocks  also  form  dikes  throughout  the  granite,  and  the  adjoin- 
ing metamorphic  sandstones.  At  the  mine  we  met  an  American  family  who  are  part  owners 
in  the  mine,  and  are  here  holding  possession.  While  they  treated  us  very  politely,  they  took 
great  pains  to  prevent  us,  by  a  course  of  "  masterly  inactivity,"  from  seeing  any  thing.  The 
shaft  was  locked  up,  and  Mr.  Somebody,  who  had  the  key,  could  not  be  found.  Not  to  be 
defeated  if  we  could  prevent  it,  we  went  to  the  mouth  of  the  shaft,  and  had  to  return  about 
as  wise  as  we  went.  The  mine  is  for  sale  in  San  Francisco,  and  I  have  been  told  that  the 
modest  sum -of  $600,000  is  asked  for  it.  My  friend  Mr.  Ashburner,  whose  opinion  on  such  a 
point  is  worth  as  much  as  that  of  anybody  else  in  California,  was  employed  to  examine  and 
report  upon  it,  and  his  opinion  was  so  decidedly  unfavorable  that  his  report  has  never  been 
made  public  by  the  proprietors. 

The  next  day  (13th)  we  lost,  having  taken  the  wrong  trail  and  travelled  all  day  along  the 
base  of  the  mountain.  In  the  afternoon  we  returned  to  within  four  miles  of  our  starting- 
point.  All  the  ground  over  which  we  went  was  a  sloping  mesa,  cut  by  deep  arroyos  and 
strown  with  angular  fragments  of  volcanic  rocks.  In  most  of  the  arroyos  there  arc  little 
patches  of  smooth  ground  covered  with  grass ;  all  are  enclosed  with  fences,  or  have  a  little 
shanty  to  indicate  possession,  and  in  one  or  two  we  found  families  living.  We  camped  in 
such  a  place,  had  excellent  water,  plenty  of  fuel,  and  an  abundance  of  grass. 

On  the  llth  we  started  for  the  mountain,  Jesus  having  gone  out  before  dark  the  previous 
afternoon  and  found  the  trail,  which  was  very  indistinct.  We  climbed  by  a  winding,  zigzag 
route  uj),  what  seemed  from  below,  inaccessible  clifts,  and  we  suddenly  found  ourselves  on  a 
plain  covered  with  mesquit  and  cactus.  We  had  left  clear  weather  in  camp,  and  here  we 
encountered  a  drizzling  rain,  and  the  wind  blowing  a  gale.  From  the  face  of  the  cliif  we 
travelled  along  this  flat,  between  higher  tables  rising  on  each  side  for  3  or  4  miles,  until 
these  tables,  constantly  diminishing  in  height,  eventually  lost  themselves  in  the  plain.  Por- 
tions of  the  route  were  sandy,  though  a  great  part  was  excessively  rocky.  This  was  more 
especially  the  case  near  Comondu,  whore  in  places  the  rocks  had  been  thrown  out  on  the 
two  sides  to  make  a  road.  Much  of  this  road,  the  work  of  the  missionaries,  was  5  and  0  feet 
below  the  level  of  the  loose  rocks  on  either  side.  Twenty-four  miles  from  our  camp  we 
reached  Comondu,  the  site  of  another  ancient  mission.  We  had  been  travelling  for  20  miles 
over  pretty  level  ground  with  a  gentle  descent,  and  suddenly  found  ourselves  on  the  edge  of 
a  canon  cut  in  solid  lava  over  100  feet  deep,  with  the  walls  in  most  places  so  steep  that  a 
goat  could  not  find  a  foothold.  Below  us  lay  a  group  of  huts  built  of  bamboo,  and  covered 
with  the  universal  palm-tbatch.     Picking  our  way  cautiously  down  a  narrow  trail  cut  in  the 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNL\.  97 

solid  rock,  we  at  last  reached  the  bottom,  and  on  tuminK  a  point  came  in  view  of  the  mis- 
sion. The  churdi  was  doubtless  once  a  superior  buihlinp;  ol'  its  class.  It  is  now  utterly 
ruined,  only  a  portion  of  the  walls  reniainin<f,  tliou_!;h  what  is  left  retains  abundant  traces  of  a 
rude,  semi-barbaric  maf^nificence.  The  walls  are  mostly  composed  of  cut  stone  nicely  dressed. 
The  accessary  buildings  arc  in  a  pretty  good  state  of  jircservation,  and  lacing  occupied  by  a 
friend  of  Jesus,  we  were  at  once  placed  in  possession  of  one  of  the  unoccupied  rooms. 

^Comoudu  projier  is  not  the  collection  of  huts  aljovc,  nor  yet  the  group  of  houses  about 
^^  the  inTSSToiTl  It  is,  strictly  speaking,  tlie  whole  valley.  It  comprises  a  valley  rarely  more 
-•.  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide,  and  some  'six  miles  long,  through  which  flows  a  line  perennial 
stream  of  water.  The  whole  bottom  is  extremely  fertile,  and  most  of  it  under  a  high  state  of 
cultivation.  Tiie  principal  produce  is  native  sugar,  called  panoche,  wine,  and  dried  fruits. 
The  land  is  owned  by  vcrvsmall  jjroprietors,  each  one  occupying  but  from  two  to  half  a  dozen 
acres.  Many  persons  resulelit  here  spend  a  part  of  the  year  on  the  coast,  during" the  times  of 
the  whale-fisheries,  in  cleaning  the  carcasses  of  the  whales  after  they  have  been  rejected  by 
the  whalers.  Tliey  take  them  on  to  the  beach,  open  them,  and  obtain  ten  or  a  dozen  barrels 
of  oil  from  the  interior,  which  they  sell  to  the  wlialers. 

Friday  (15th)  we  rode  a  dozen  miles  down  the  caiionto  the  last  water  of  the  creek,  before 
it  sinks  and  disappears  entirely,  and  camped  at  a  deserted  raneho.  The  volcanic  rocks  of 
the  higher  tables  continue  to  form  the  walls  of  the  canon  to  a  great  extent,  though  the  de- 
posit diminislied  from  over  a  hundred  to  thirty  or  forty  feet  thick.  In  places  the  rock  as- 
sumed a  distinctly  columnar  structure,  though  tliis  basaltic  form  was  rather  uncommon.  Under 
the  lava  are  horizontal  stratified  sandstones,  containing  large  quantities  of  volcanic  debris. 
The  next  day  we  rode  eight  leagues  to  where  the  canon  opens  out  on  the  plains,  and  camped  be- 
side a  little  water-hole  of  three  or  four  feet  across,  known  by  the  rather  pretentious  name  of 
the  "  Pozo  Grande."  We  had  pretty  fair  feed  for  our  animals,  but  almost  no  wood.  A  poor 
family  lives  here,  depending  on  a  few  cows — their  diet  being  little  more  than  cheese  and  milk. 
The  volcanic  rocks  disappeared  near  the  plain,- and  the  sandstones,  overlaid  by  the  post-plio- 
cene limestones,  dip  under  the  plain  at  a  very  low  angle.  We  spent  ^unday  at  this  camp, 
and  on  Monday  morning  started  in  a  drizzling  rain  for  the  port  of  San  Juanico,  across  the 
plain.  Before  noon  the  rain  Avas  falling  violently,  and  stopping  at  a.  clump  of  trees  (yuccas, 
or  Spanish  bayonet-trees),  we  built  a  hasty  shelter  of  blankets  thrown  across  ropes,  so  as  to 
make  a  i)oor  substitute  for  a  tent,  and  spent  a  miserable  afternoon.  We  fortunately  had  one 
barrelful  of  water,  so  that  we  were  not  obliged  to  travel  30  miles  to  the  next  water.  On 
Tuesday  morning,  the  weather  had  cleared  up,  and  we  went  on  to  the  mouth  of  the  Purisimo 
caiion,  where  we  got  good  grass,  pretty  good  water,  and  plenty  of  wood.  Here  we  dried  our 
blankets,  and  were  enabled  to  pass  a  pretty  comfortable  night. 

Our  ride  from  the  JNjzo^Grande  to  this  place  was,  in  one  respect  at  least,  very  satisfactory. 
The  plain  is  almost  unlimited  in  extent ;  the  soil  is  unsurpassed  anywhere  ;  the  rocks  lie  in 
such  a  position  with  relation  to  the  highlands  east,  as  to  secure  an  unlimited  supply  of  water: 
the  long  nortliern  arm  of  Magdalena  Bay  runs  up  to  within  three  or  four  miles  of  the  Pozo, 
and  there  is  no  reason  why,  by  digging  wells  for  irrigation,  the  whole  plain  should  not  be  cul- 
tivated. Wells  exist  at  many  places,  such  as  Sto.  Domingo,  La  Soledad,  SantJeorge,  and  San 
Xavicr,  and  they  are  all  shallow,  and  furnish  a  permanent  supply  of  good  water.  Nothing 
but  the  unconquerable  laziness  of  this  worthless  Mexican  mongrel  race  has  prevented  tlie  oc- 
cupation of  this  plain,  a  tract  of  land  that  can  be  safely  estimated  as  a  hundred  miles  long 
with  an  average  width  of  ten  miles.  Where  they  have  not  water  oiv  the  surface,  they  are  too 
lazy  to  dig  ten  feet  for  it.  "' 

Should  a  successful  colony  ever  be  located  on  the  peninsula  of  Lower  California,  it  must 
be  on  this  plain.  Here  is  the  only  tract  sufficiently  large  for  a  hirge  enterprise  of  such  a 
kind,  that  comprises  the  other  requisites  of  a  good  soil  free  from  stones,  and  good  water  ac- 
cessible in  sullicient  quantities. 

-  On  the  20th  we  rode  eight  leagues  along  the  coast  to  the  port  and  spring  of  San  Juanico. 
The  plains,  with  all  their  former  characteristics,  continue  some  distance  l)eyond  the  mouth  ot 
the  Purisima,  but  are  very  mucli  narrowed  by  the  encroachment  of  the  tables.  They  are 
succeeded  by  a  long  belt  of  rolling,  sandy  country,  separated  from  the  beach  by  a  range  of 
sand-hills  nearly  a  hundred  feet  high  in  places.  Immense  numbers  of  snails  {Iklix  anolate) 
were  found  among  the  bushes,  tenq)ted  out  by  the  rain,  and  the  dead  sliells  wliiten  the  ground 
in  some  localities,  as  if  there  iiad  been  a  snow-storm.  They  are  so  abundant  in  some  of  these 
places  that  one  could  n?ot  take  a  step  without  mashing  a  dozen  of  tliem.  This  species  fre- 
quents the  lowlands,  and  is  found  from  the  Salada,  near  Magdalena  Bay,  where  I  encountered 
tlie  first  specimen,  to  Santo  Tonias.  Just  before  reaching  San  Juanico  we  met  a  couple  of 
boys  on  the  beach,  at  some  rocks,  fishing  for  abalones  {Haliotis),  a  large  limpet-like  shell-fish 
found  attached  to  stones  near  the  low-water  mark. 

AVc  stopped  a  little  while  and  collected  a  few  shells.  The  locality  is  very  rich,  and  I  re- 
gretted esceeJingly  that  we  were  not  able  to  spend  some  time  here,  but  we  were  obliged  to 
leave.  At  our  camp  there  was  barely  enough  grass  for  one  night,  and  all  the  wood  we  could 
get  was  the  very  little  we  could  collect  on  the  beach.  The  spring  is  on  a  barren  hill-side,  and 
is  slightly  sulphurous.  Only  a  little  marsii-grass  grows  around  it,  and  in  the  vicinity  is  a 
small  quantity  of  bunch-giass.  The  port  is  semicircular,  opens  to  the  southwest,  and  is 
7 

0*  '-i 


98 


SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 


about  five  or  six  miles  across.  The  anchorage  is  reputed  good,  and  there  are  no  rocks  in  the 
bay.  The  country  adjacent  is  so  perfectly  worthless,  however,  that  there  will  probably  never 
be  any  use  for  a  harbor  here,  unless  as  a  shelter  for  passing  vessels,  or  a  place  to  replenish 
their  supplies  of  water. 

From  San  Juanico  we  started  southeast  on  our  way  to  Purisima,  riding  five  leagues  to  a 
fine  deep  pond  in  tlie  arroyo  San  Gregorio,  at  a  place  called  the  Mesquital.  The  termination 
al  is  apphed  to  a  grove  or  thicket  of  any  kind  of  trees  or  plants, — thus,  a  mesquital  is  a  grove 
of  mesquit-trees,  a  saucal,  of  sauce  or  willow-trees,  etc.  The  mesquital  is  a  dense  grove  of 
mesquits  in  a  piece  of  bottom-land  bordered  by  rocky  mesas.  We  had  an  excellent  camp, 
with  the  best  of  water  and  an  abundance  of  wood,  the  mules  browsing  on  the  tender  twigs  of 
the  mesquit.  Our  road  to  this  place  was  partly  among  some  barren  rolling  hills,  partly  over 
a  mesa  of  loose  volcanic  rocks.  There  are  here  two  distinct  terraces,  the  lower  about  fifty 
feet  high,  the  other  about  one  hundred  feet  above  the  first.  The  upper  one  is  capped  by  a 
sheet  of  volcanic  rocks,  which  continue  almost  unbroken  to  the  summit  of  the  Sierra  Gigantea. 
The  volcanic  tables  usually  support  a  scattering  growth  of  various  species  of  cactus,  with  an 
admixture  of  shrubby  plants  and  small  trees.  Of  the  latter,  one  of  the  most  striking  is  the 
Palo  Adan  or  Adam's  tree,  the  bark  of  which  is  mucli  used  in  washing,  making  a  very  good 
lather  like  soap,  and  having  strong  detersive  properties.  It  is  a  ragged  and  naked-looking 
plant,  grows  ten  to  fifteen  feet  high,  the  branches  often  springing  from  a  trunk  not  six  inches 
high,  and  continuing  straight  and  without  a  twig  to  the  extreme  tips  ;  in  some  cases  it  is 
more  arborescent  in  form,  but  its  peculiarity  is  that  the  branches  rarely  divide  and  never  send 
out  twigs  ;  the  leaves  grow  directly  on  the  branches,  are  very  much  of  the  size  and  form  of  the 
box-leaves,  and  grow  in  groups  of  two  or  three,  while  just  below  each  group  is  a  spine  an  inch 
long,  perfectly  straight,  and  as  hard  and  sharp  as  a  needle.  The  flowers  are  a  brilliant  scarlet, 
and  grow  only  on  the  extreme  tips  of  the  branches. 

The  lomboi,  another  peculiar  plant,  found  nearly  the  whole  length  of  the  peninsula,  also 
flourishes  here.  It  is  a  small  tree,  rarely  more  than  ten  feet  high,  with  soft,  brittle  wood,  thick, 
clumsy  branches  anc^twigs,  and  leaves  a  little  over  an  inch  across,  and  very  sparsely  distributed, 
so  as  to  give  the  tree  a  naked  look.  On  cutting  the  twigs  or  branches,  a  very  fluid,  milky- 
looking  sap  exudes  abundantly.  This  sap,  on  exposure  to  the  atmosphere  and  light,  turns 
black  as  promptly  as  a  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver,  and  is  equally  indelible.  White  cotton  or 
linen  clothing  hung  on  these  bushes  to  dry  is  almost  certain  to  be  stained  by  the  sap. 

February  22d,  Ave  rode  sis  leagues  across  the  same  rocky  tables  as  the  day  before,  to  the 
old  mission  of  Purisima,  in  a  deep  caiion  of  the^amename.  On  the  way  I  shot  a  hare,  cut- 
"fing  off  both  his  forelegs,  and  even  then  he  managed  to  elude  the  whole  party  for  at  least  ten 
minutes,  dodging  from  one  bush  to  another.  Our  appearance  pursuing  the  poor  little  wretch 
with  sticks  and  stones  was,  doubtless,  far  more  ludicrous  than  dignified.  These  animals  are 
the  commonest  of  all  the  game  in  Lower  California,  and  not  unfrequently  furnished  all  the 
fresh  meat  we  could  obtain  for  a  week  or  two  together.  The  trail  descends  from  the  mesa 
into  the  Purisima  Arroyo,  about  a  league  below  the  town,  and  winds  along  the  hill-side  most 
of  the  way,  bounded  by  a  marsh  on  one  side  and  by  overhanging  cliffs  of  volcanic  rocks  on 
the  other.  A  beautiful  natural  section  is  here  exhibited  ;  the  older  sandstones  lie  in  broad, 
gentle  undulations,  capped  by  post-pliocene  shales  and  limestones  deposited  on  the  denuded 
surfiiecs,  while  covering  all  is  a  sheet  of  trachytes,  varying  from  50  feet  thick,  to  where  de- 
nudation has  carried  away  all  hut  some  loose  fragments  scattered  over  the  surface.  Just 
above  the  town  is  a  peculiar-looking  hill,  isolated  from  the  surrounding  mesa — sloping  up  in 
a  pretty  regular  cone,  and  surmounted  liy  .a  level  cap  of  basaltic  trachyte  so  abrupt  on  the 
sides,  that  it  is  said  human  foot  has  never  trod  the  summit.  It  is  said  that  from  the  head  of 
this  caiion  there  is  a  pass,  not  more  than  a  hundred  feet  high,  opening  in  the  phiia  of  Snn  Juan, 
above  Lorcto.  We  were  unable  to  visit  this  pass,  and  can  only  mention  it  as  a  piece  of 
hearsay  information  for  what  it  is  worth.  The  bed  of  the  caiion  is  more  or  less  rocky 
throughout,  and  the  water  runs,  as  a  consequence,  on  the  siirface,  instead  of  being  subter- 
ranean, as  is  usually  the  case.  Where  the  trail  enters  the  caiion  there  is  a  pretty  little  water- 
fall of  eight  or  ten  feet  high,  the  water  making  a  sheer  leap  of  that  distance,  and  forming  a 
deep  pool  very  suggestive  of  silver-sided  trout.  In  any  other  country  this  would  be  an  ex 
cellent  trout-stream,  but  in  Lower  California  things  never  are  as  they  might  be  expected  to 
'be,  and  he  who  would  ever  look  for  "suckers"  here  would  be  doomed  to  disappointment. 
At  this  waterfall  a  siilendid  mill-site  could  be  obtained,  the  body  of  water  being  large  and  per- 
manent, and  sullicient  fall  existing  to  supply  all  the  power  necessary.  A  considerable  tract 
of  unoccuiiied  ground  exists  below  the  fall,  said  to  be  subject  to  overflow  during  the  lieavie'r~N, 

(freshets,  but  with  a  trifling  expenditure  this  could  be  obviated.    Viosea  says,  "  In  olden  timej, 
the  Purisima  furnished  grain  to  all  the  other  missions."     Tiie  land  now  under  cultivation  is 
but  a  small  part  of  what  could  be  rendered  availalile,  being  but  a  few  hundred  acres  in  all,  al- 
though the  caiion  is  from  a  hundred  yards  to  half  a  mile  wide,  and  several  miles  long.  Vines,     . 
figs,  oranges,  cotton,  peas,  beans,  wheat,  sugar-cane,  and  many  Northern  vegetables  are  raised  j' 
here  almost  without  laljor.     In  addition  to  what  is  consumed  on  the  spot,  about  a  thousand    / 
cargoes,  of  three   hundred  pounds   each,  of  dried  fruits,  are  exported  from  here  annual!}', 
bo  sides  considerable   quantities  of  panochc  and  wine.     The  population  was  estimated  in 
1861  to  be  250.     The  inhabitants  are  so  scattered  that  it  would  be  difficult  for  a  mere  passer 


t^^ 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  99 

to  arrive  nt  any  thiiii;  like  a  satisfactory  estimate,  but  it  can  hardly  vary  much  from  that 
number. 

At  the  mission  is  quite  a  village,  of  perhaps  20  or  80  houses,  mostly  poor,  roughly-built 
shanties.  One  of  the  poorest  was  inhabited  by  tlic  only  foreigner,  an  Englishman,  whose 
appearance  and  habits  were  very  much  in  keeping  with  his  home. 

As  we  entered  the  village,  he  came  running  across  a  garden  to  meet  us,  and  in  reply  to 
our  question  about  a  spot  for  camp,  incontinently  took  possession  of  us,  bag  and  liaggage. 
In  spite  of  our  protests  he  took  us  to  his  house,  as  we  fondly  supposed,  prompted  by  feel- 
ings of  hospitality ;  but,  as  the  result  proved,  so  as  he  could  have  us  more  to  himself,  in 
order  to  fleece  us  at  his  leisure,  uninterfered  with  by  similar  efforts  on  the  part  of  his  neigh- 
bors. 

On  the  whole,  however,  it  is  doubtful  whether  we  were  not  the  gainers  by  this  arrange- 
ment, lie  procured  us  good  pasturage  for  our  mules  in  somebody  else's  "  potrero,"  and 
while  he  took  good  care  that  he  sliouhi  make  all  he  could  from  us,  he  guarded  us  jealously 
against  imposition  from  anybody  else,  so  that  we  were  only  moderately  cheated  by  one  man, 

instead  of  being  robbed  by  the  whole  village.     Don  Pedro  M made  a  successful  raid  on 

us,  or  rather  used  us  as  a  pretext  for  a  pretty  good  general  speculation.  He  announced  a 
ball  to  be  given  in  honor  of  the  Americanos.  When  the  evening  came,  we  went  to  his  house 
and  found  everybody,  his  wife,  all  of  his  children,  and  not  a  few  of  his  servants  assembled 
there,  the  ladies  ranged  round  one  end  of  the  room  on  chairs,  benches,  and  bedsteads ;  the 
male  portion  of  the  company  was  huddled  into  the  other  end,  in  positions  often  more  pic- 
tures([ue  than  decorous.  Costume  was  a  matter  of  little  moment,  convenience  being  con- 
sulted rather  than  the  arbitrary  rules  of  fashion.  Mr.  Liiher's  pantaloons,  covered  with 
parti-colored  patches,  were  unnoticed,  and  mine  of  dark  cloth,  profusely  reenforced  with 
white  buckskin,  failed  to  attract  attention.  The  dancing  was  kept  up  almost  without  inter- 
ruption, but  the  dancers  found  time  to  refresh  themselves  quite  frequently.  In  an  adjoining 
room  Don  Pedro  had  a  barrel  of  wine  "on  tap,"  from  which  he  treated  his  guests  for  the 
slight  consideration  of  a  real  a  glass.  Judging  from  the  effects,  the  affiiir  must  have  been 
profitable:  by  11  o'clock  some  of  the  "gentlemen"  were  becoming  affectionate,  others  noisy, 
and  a  few  sleepy.  Thinking  discretion  the  better  part  of  valor,  we  made  our  adieus  and  re- 
tired as  quietly  as  possible,  but  long  into  the  night  we  heard  the  shouts  and  singing  of  those 
who  didn't  want  to  "go  home  till  morning." 

Our  host's  wife,  like  most  of  the  women  of  this  country,  has  a  much  higher  opinion  of 
foreigners,  or  rather,  of  the  whites,  than  of  her  own  countrymen.  It  seems  to  be  the  highest 
ambition  of  these  women  to  marry  a  white  man,  and  many  of  them,  married  to  Mexicans,  are- 
more  proud  of  a  child  with  suspiciously-light  hair  and  eyes  than  they  are  of  their  swarthy^ 
though  legitimate  offspring.  So  with  our  hostess:  she  seemed  to  be  very  proud  of  her 
guests,  and  was  untiring  in  her  exertions  to  show  us,  by  every  means  in  her  power,  how 
highly  she  appreciated  the  honor  of  entertaining  us.  This  took  a  rather  embarrassing  form 
as  we  were  saying  good-by.  When  I  approached  her  for  that  purpose,  she  made  a  motion 
to  embrace  me  in  the  manner  of  the  country.  Not  being  accustomed  to  such  cordial  treat- 
ment from  her  sex,  and  being  a  i)ashful  man,  I  instinctively  retreated  out  of  arm's  length, 
much  to  the  confusion  of  the  lady,  and  the  amusement  of  my  companions.  Had  she  been  a 
little  cleaner,  a  little  prettier,  and  not  quite  so  puljlic  in  her  demonstrations,  I  think  I  might 
have  submitted  ;  as  it  was,  with  a  blundering  apology  I  shook  hands  with  her,  and,  abashed 
by  her  ill  success  with  me,  she  did  not  attempt  it  with  my  companions. 

While  in  the  town  we  visited  the  church.  It  is  ncitlicr  large  nor  pretty.  Four  walls, 
roughly  built,  support  a  new  palm-thatch,  and  on  the  door,  also  new,  is  a  scrawling  inscrip- 
tion, that  Don  Fulano  de  Tal  repaired  this  church,  in  IS.^D,  at  his  own  expense.  Tliere  were 
a  number  of  images  inside.  A  plaster  cast  of  a  Roman  soldier,  with  a  helmet,  sword,  and 
shield,  does  duty  as  the  Virgin,  having  his  inappropriate  accoutrement  covered  up  by  a  taw- 
dry mass  of  cheap  finery.  An  artist's  common  wooden  lay-figure,  with  all  its  ugliness  is  also 
rigged  out  in  an  alarmingly  modern  manner  to  represent  Saint  Somebody  or  other,  while  on 
the  altar  is  a  crucifix  entirely  out  of  keeping  with  the  rest  of  the  establishment.  The  original 
cross  is  gone,  and  is  replaced  by  a  couple  of  rough  sticks  tied  together  ;  but  the  image  of  the 
Saviour,  about  a  foot  in  length,  is  really  a  fine  work  of  art.  It  is  carved  in  some  soft  wood, 
now  gray  with  age,  but  the  position,  the  muscular  anatomy,  and  the  expression  of  the  face, 
are  excellent. 

On  the  25th  we  rode  six  and  a  half  leagues  from  Purisima  across  rocky  tables  to  the  up- 
per part  of  the  San  Gregorio  Arroyo  again.  On  the  road  we  passed  a  ranclio,  called  Old 
Purisima.  The  principal  occupation  of  the  people  here  appears  to  be  the  manufacture  of 
mescal,  a  strong,  highly  alcoholic  liquor,  made  from  the  sap  of  the  maguey-plant.  The 
plant  is  selected  just  as  it  is  about  to  send  out  its  flower-stalk  ;  all  the  leaves  are  cut  off 
leaving  a  core  not  much  larger  than  a  man's  head.  This  is  crushed,  the  sap  allowed  to  fer- 
ment, and  is  afterward  distilled.  The  liquor  thus  obtained  is  as  limpid  and  colorless  as 
water,  but  excessively  alcoholic,  and  with  a  harsh,  rasping  taste  like  new  whiskey.  Next  day 
we  travelled  seven  leagues  up  the  arroyo  over  an  excessively  rough,  rocky  route ;  most  of 
the  way  without  a  trail,  our  mules  being  obliged  to  pick  their  way,  as  best  they  could,  among 
the  rocks  and  boulders,  stumbling  at  every  step,  but  never  falling.     Wc  eventually  came  out 


100  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AXD 

on  a  little  flat  of  a  few  acres,  reasonably  free  from  stones,  with  plenty  of  grass  and  wood, 
and  a  sufficiency  of  water  among  some  rocks. 

Glad  to  find  such  a  place,  and  fearful  that  we  would  not  find  such  another  if  we  went  on, 
we  made  camp  at  once.  Along  all  of  this  day's  ride  the  rocks  were  more  or  less  disturbed 
and  highly  metamorphosed  ;  the  model  fossiliferous  rocks  of  the  coast  having  entirely  disap- 
peared. 

From  this  place,  known  as  the  Zapote,  we  rode,  the  next  day,  five  and  a  half  leagues, 
leaving  the  Arroyo  Guadalupe,  crossing  a  very  rocky  and  steep  ridge  with  a  flat  top,  and 
descending  by  a  long,  winding,  and  steep  descent  into  a  broad,  open  valley  which  runs  down 
to  Moleje.  After  crossing  the  ridge  we  found  at  its  base  a  good-sized  spring  of  pleasant 
water,  and,  after  filling  our  barrels  and  watering  the  mules,  we  pushed  on  into  the  valley, 
making  a  dry  camp  with  an  abundance  of  grass  and  wood.  Although  the  distance  travelled 
was  not  great,  the  road  made  up  in  height  and  roughness  what  it  wanted  in  length.  From 
here  we  pushed  on,  and  reached  Molejo  in  sis  leagues  farther ;  riding  down  the  valley,  most 
of  which  is  flat  grass-land,  with  good  soil,  without  stones.  No  water  exists,  except  a  few  small 
springs  near  the  edge  of  the  hills.  The  rocks  are  all  highly  metamorphosed,  but  no  volcanic 
rocks  were  seen,  even  where  we  crossed  the  summit  the  day  before. 

Moleje  is  a  small,  straggling  village  of  adobe  houses,  with  a  population  of,  perhaps,  a  couple 
of  hundred  persons.  It  has  a  dull,  deserted  look.  The  ditch  that  supplies  water  to  the  gar- 
dens had  been  broken  two  years,  and  efforts  were  just  being  made  to  repair  it.  We  had  a 
letter  of  introduction  from  the  govei'nor  to  Senor  Larroque,  the  sub-prefect  of  the  place,  and, 
on  presenting  it,  were  received  vei-y  kindly.  The  government  building,  which  serves  the 
joint  purposes  of  calaboose,  barracks,  arsenal,  and  government  offices,  was  placed  at  our 
disposal,  and  Senor  Larroque  did  all  in  his  power  to  make  us  comfortable.  We  found  him 
a  very  accomplished  gentleman,  and  a  man  of  the  world,  and  were  rather  suprised  to  meet 
such  a  person  living  in  such  an  out-of-the-way  place.  There  were  several  other  gentlemen 
here,  to  whom  we  were  introduced,  and  who  contributed  toward  making  our  short  stay 
very  agreeable.  These  gentlemen  make  a  little  coterie  among  themselves,  and  thus  serve  to 
lighten  somewhat  the  tedium  of  what  would  otherwise  amount  to  little  less  than  practical 
banishment. 

Moleje  contains  no  ruins,  except  the  broken-down  walls  of  an  old  church,  now  almost  en- 
tirely demolished.  The  port  is  merely  a  httle  creek,  navigable  part  way  for  very  small 
vessels.  The  bay  of  Molejo  is  farther  to  the  southward.  Poor  Domingo,  our  mozo,  has 
some  unpleasant  recollections  of  the  town.  He  was  shamefully  swindled  by  a  rascalLy 
Frenchman,  named  Abadie,  in  a  mule-trade.  Abadie,  who  keeps  a  store  here,  took  a  fancy 
to  an  extra  horse  that  Domingo  had  with  him,  and  oflcred  a  very  good-looking  mule  for  him. 
Domingo,  not  suspecting  any  trick,  bit  at  the  bait,  made  the  trade,  and,  when  it  was  too  late, 
found  that  the  mule  was  so  badly  sprained  in  the  back  as  to  be  worthless.  With  the  coolest 
effrontery,  Abadie  followed  us  to  our  camp  that  evening,  and,  on  Domingo's  complaining  of  the 
cheat,  offered  to  buy  the  mule  for  nine  'dollars.  The  poor  boy  had  no  redress,  and  took  the 
money  rather  than  lose  all. 

Our  stay  at  Moleje  was  very  .short.  We  left  the  afternoon  of  the  day  after  our  arrival, 
and,  riding  across  some  rolling  hills,  camped  early  in  a  little  valley  with  rather  poor  grass, 
but  the  best  to  be  had  for  a  long  distance.  AYe  saw  something  of  the  famed  gypsum  deposits, 
and  were  decidedly  disappointed.  The  quantity  is  very  much  less  than  has  been  represented, 
and  I  consider  it  extremely  doubtful  if  it  could  ever  be  rendered  profitable,  unless  other  de- 
posits, which  we  did  not  see,  may  prove  more  extensive  and  accessible. 

'  ■  From  the  hills  we  emerged  into  the  pJ,ain4of_Magdalena,  as  they  are  called.  They  must 
not,  however,  be  confounded  with  those  on  tHc  west  coast,  near  Magdalena  Bay.  These 
plains,  several  miles  wide,  extend  along  the  coast,  northward,  almost  to  the  volcano  of  the 
Virgins. 

A  portion  of  the  tract  has  been  acquired  by  a  company,  organized  in  San  Francisco  for 

the  purpose  of  founding  a  colony  here.  Such  folly  or  dishonesty,  as  the  case  may  be,  can- 
not be  too  strongly  reprehended.  If  the  company  chose  this  land  on  mere  hearsay,  their 
carelessness  is  culpable;  and  if  it  was  recommended  by  a  person  who  was  acquainted  with  it, 
he  was  guilty  of  a  direct  attempt  at  swindling.  There  is  not  a  drop  'of  fresh  water  on  the 
property  of  the  company  ;  but  that  is  not  so  important  a  matter,  since  water  could  cfoubtless 
be  obtained  from  wells.  The  great  objection  is,  there  is  not  an  acre  of  land  in  the  tract  that 
can  beTTifltivated,  so  thickly  is  the  surface  strewed  with  rocks. 

Such  an  entcrprise'aS  tins  is  the  more  to  be  condemned  by  all  honest  men,  because  the 
victims  arc  usually  poor  men,  who  invest  their  little  all  in  the  vain  hope  of  securing  a  home, 
and  find  out  their  mistake  when  it  is  too  late.  A  similar  outrage  was  perpetrated  a  few 
years  ago  at  Ventana  Bay,  south  of  La  Paz,  and  some  of  the  stories  of  sufferings  and  hard- 
ships to  which  the  luckless  victims  were  subjected  are  truly  heart-rending.  The  memory 
of  them  is  still  fresh  in  the  minds  of  the  people  of  that  country. 

The  mission  of  Guadalupe  is  situated  on  the  edge  of  the  Magdalena  plain,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  canon  of  San  Jose.  The  buildings  are  entirely  destroyed,  their  foundations  only 
remaining  in  part.  A  fine  aqueduct  exists  here,  several  miles  long,  partly  cut  in  the  rocks, 
and  in  other  places  built  of  solid  mason-woi-k.     It  is  now  so  broken  down  as  to  be  useless, 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWE^    CALIFORNIA.  101 

thonjih  it  couKl  be  repaired.  It  was  constructed  for  the  purpose  of  irrigating  the  few  acres 
of  arable  land  hoar  the  niouth  of  the  cailon,  and  was,  beyond  question,  the  finest  work  of  the 
kind  in  Lower  California.  It  is  in  many  places  filled  up,  and  large  bushes  and  trees  grow  in 
and  around  it. 

San  .lose  is  about  three  leagues  from  the  movith  of  the  canon.  We  rode  directly  through 
the  vniage,  and  camped  in  the  bottom,  a  little  beyond.  Here  is  ((uite  a  large  pond  of  good 
water,  which  might  almost  be  called  a  spring.  It  is  there  the  subterranean  stream  first 
reaches  the  surface.  It  afterward  sinks,  and  reappears  a  number  of  times,  as  the  rocky  bed 
approaches  or  recedes  from  tlie  surfiice.  Farther  down  it  becomes  a  permanent  and  con- 
tinuous stream,  running  to  the  mouth  of  the  eaiion.  At  the  camp  we  had  hardly  a  blade  of 
grass,  but  the  mules  did  well,  browsing  on  the  lipua-trees,  which  form  a  thick  grove. 

From  San  Jose  we  travelled  up  the  dry  arroyo,  across  rocky  tables  and  rolling  hills,  to 
another  arroyo,  until  we  reached  the  deserted  rancho  of  Dorotea,  by  a  little  vv'ater-holc.  The 
water,  what  is  left  from  the  winter  rains,  in  a  rocky  basin,  is  much  resorted  to  by  a  band  of 
cattle  scattered  over  the  surrounding  hills,  and  we,  as  a  consequence,  had  the  pleasure  of 
drinking  a  suspicious  fluid  with  a  decidedly  cowy  odor  and  taste.  It  was  as  green  as  grass, 
perfectly  opaque,  and  seemed  actually  putrid.  But  we  were  glad  to  get  it,  although  it  gave 
the  cook  another  opportunity  to  growl  at  the  country,  and  one  of  which  he  availed  himself  to 
his  heart's  content.  AVe  were  now  fairly  in  the  mountains  ;  the  main  ridge  here  retreats  to 
some  distance  from  the  coast,  and  the  intervening  country  is  a  mass  of  rugged,  barren  hills, 
with  scattered  patches  of  grass-laud  in  the  valleys.  Water  is  very  scarce,  and  usually  poor 
when  found.     The  rocks  are  all  metamorphic,  and  comparatively  very  nluch  disturbed,  being  « 

folded  with  a  general  northwest  strike. 

On  the  morning  of  the  4th  we  left  the  Dorotea,  without  a  regret,  and  crossing  a  num- 
ber of  ridges  from  200  to  400  feet  higher  than  the  included  valleys,  we  at  last  ascended  the 
face  of  the  main  chain,  climbing  about  600  feet  of  a  pretty  steep  trail.  From  the  summit  we 
could  see  almost  to  the  plains  on  the  west  coast,  the  view  being  only  interrupted  by  the  haze 
hanging  low  over  the  lowlanils.  The  valley  which  we  left  opens  either  at  or  near  Sta.  Aguida, 
about  25  miles  north  of  Moleje,  and  within  very  easy -access  of  several  small  ports. 

Should  it  be  desirable  to  build  a  i-ailroad  across  the  peninsula  at  this  point,  this  ascent 
is  the  only  obstacle  that  would  be  encountered  from  coast  to  coast,  and  there  is  plenty  of 
room  to  make  an  easy  grade  on  the  hill-side  to  surmount  it.  There  are  other  points,  how- 
ever, which,  from  the  hasty  glance  which  alone  we  were  able  to  give  them,  seemed  preferable 
to  this.  The  pass  of  the  Infierno  is  probably  better  than  this,  and  still  better  than  either  is 
the  route  by  way  of  Calamujuet.  From  the  point  where  we  first  struck  the  summit,  there  is 
a  gradual  and  gentle  descent  all  the  way  to  the  plains.  The  trail  follows  down  a  canon 
to  the  little  rancho  of  Sta.  Cruz,  and  thence,  partly  in  the  canon,  and  partly  on  very  rocky 
mesa,  to  San  Ignacio.  We  went  about  two  leagues  below  Santa  Cruz,  about  eight  leagues 
in  all  from  Dorotea,  and  camped  beside  a  water-hole,  turning  our  mules  out  on  the  mesa  to 
pick  the  grass  from  between  the  stones.  Just  as  we  struck  the  summit  we  encountered  a 
dike  of  trachyte,  25  or  30  feet  thick,  striking  northwest,  and  running  a  mile  and  a  half  in  a 
straight  fine,  protruding  above  the  surfiice  like  a  colossal  wall.  One  or  two  other  parallel 
dikes  were  seen,  but  no  lateral  otitflow  could  be  detected.  If  any  ever  existed,  it  had  prob- 
ably been  carried  away  by  denudation. 

Next  morning,  March  5th,  we  rode  eight  leagues,  mostly  over  flat  tables,  strewn  with  a 
profusion  of  volcanic  debris,  to  San  Ignacio.  Passed  a  beautiful  volcanic  cone,  and  had  an 
excellent  view  of  the  volcano  of  the  "\Krgins.  It  bears  a  striking  resemblance  in  form  to 
Monte  Diablo,  presenting  from  this  side  two  points,  one  slightly  higher  than  the  other,  while 
the  flanks  slope  off  at  a  low  angle. 

Approaching  San  Ignacio,  the  post-pliocene  of  the  coast  again  presents  itself,  inserted        »_<^,<^ 
with  a  thin  edge  between  the  older  rocks  and  the  volcanic,  gradually  widening  out  until  at         >,  ^i 
San  Ignacio  it  make.=?  all  the  section  where  the  mesa  is  cut  by  the  arroyo.  ^   r 

San  Ignacio  is  a  village  wjth  a  population,  including  the  suburbs,  of  about  20  families.  -  j  -^oy^ 
The  only  buildings  of  any  importance  in  the  place  are  those  belonging  to  the  mission.  The 
others  are_niere  shanties.  The  church  buildings,  consisting  of  the  church  itself,  and  two 
lateral  wings,  "oiic^f  which  is  prolonged  into  an  L,  are  in  excellent  repair,  and  are  the  most 
imposing  buildings  of  this  class  in  the  territory.  They  are  very  solidly  built  of  stone  with 
arched  roofs,  being  out  so  as  to  be  flat  on  top.  The  church  is  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross, 
and  has  a  hemispherical  dome  of  stone,  at  the  intersection  of  the  cross.  There  is  a  fine 
commodious  gallery  for  the  choir,  also  of  stone,  and,  in  fact,  no  wood  enters  into  the  con- 
struction of  the  building,  except  the  doors,  unless  it  may  be  some  of  the  lintels.  The  orna- 
ments which  vandalism,  sacrilege,  and  the  poverty  of  the  Government  have  left  are  still  sulficient 
to  show  that  neither  expense  nor  labor  was  spared  to  make  this  the  most  elaborate  church 
in  Lower  California. 

The  buildings  all  stand  on  a  terrace,  partly  artificial,  about  four  feet  high  in  front  and 
ten  feet  behind,  very  carefully  walled  up  with  stone. 

The  place  is  occupied  by  Don  Ventura  Arcc,  a  jolly,  fat  old  fellow,  who  lives  here  in 
in  truly  patriarchal  style,  surrounded  by  a  troop  of  his  children  and  grandchildren.  The 
gardens  are  very  extensive,  perhaps  more  so  than  any  others  north  of  La  Paz.     Grain  of 


102  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AXD 

various  kinds,  beans,  and  all  sorts  of  vegetables  are  raised  in  abundance,  while  thousands  of 
date-palms,  growing  spontaneously,  yield  their  proprietor  a  large  income.  Besides  these,  figs, 
olives,  grapes,  and  pomegranates  are  cultivated  extensively,  and  sugar-cane  is  raised  to  such 
an  extent,  that  panoche  is  an  important  article  of  export.  A  perennial  superabundance  of 
running  water  relieves  San  Ignacio  from  all  fear  of  drought,  and  the  only  labor  necessaj-y  is 
to  keep  open  the  irrigating  ditches,  and  collect  the  crops.  With  industry,  energy,  and 'intel- 
ligence, the  capacities  of  the  place  could  be  trebled  in  live  years. 

The  residents  here  claim  that  a  good  port  exists  below  here,  which  they  call  the  "  Lagu- 
na."  I  had  not  time  to  visit  it,  but  Captain  Scammon,  who  is  familiar  with  every  nook  and 
corner  of  this  coast,  has  doubtless  described  it  in  full  in  his  report.  It  is  said  to  be  similar 
to  Scammon's  Lagoon,  though  smaller,  and  empties  into  Ballcnas  Bay. 

We  brought  a  couple  of  letters  of  introduction  to  Don  Ventura,  who  received  us  kindly, 
and  placed  us  in  an  unoccupied  room  in  the  mission  buildings.  We  spent  a  day  here,  wait- 
ing for  some  mules  to  be  brought  in,  and,  as  is  always  the  case,  they  could  not  be  found 
unt'l  the  next  morning.  Wlien  they  were  brought  in  we  made  an  exchange,  getting  a  fresh 
anim.xl  in  place  of  one  of  our  pack-mules,  and  in  the  afternoon  sallied  out,  more  for  the  pur- 
pose of  getting  a  start  than  because  we  expected  to  travel  any  distance. 

After  a  promiscuous  hand-shaking  with  nearly  the  vi'hole  town,  we  made  our  escape,  and 
rode  about  a  league,  half  of  which  was  over  unoccupied  bottom-lands  in  the  arroyo,  that 
could  at  but  little  expense  be  all  rendered  available  for  cultivation.  Most  of  this  land  is  pro- 
tected by  heavy  embankments  of  stone,  built  by  the  Indians  under  the  missionaries,  to  con- 
fine the  winter  torrents  within  their  proper  channels.  After  leaving  the  arroyo  we  travelled 
over  a  very  table  to  near  the  base  of  a  volcanic  ridge,  and  camped  in  the  midst  of  a  thicket 
of  cactus  on  a  bed  of  red  pumice,  the  only  place  where  we  could  find  sufficient  grass  for  our 
animals.     For  fuel  we  had  only  the  woody  skeletons  of  cacti. 

On  the  next  morning  we  left  camp  with  many  misgivings.  We  had  to  undertake  the  long- 
threatened  and  much-dreaded  passage  of  the  Infierno, — the  worst  pass  of  Lower  California. 
We  had  heard  of  this  pass  ever  since  we  entered  the  country,  and  before  we  left  San  Ignacio 
we  received  the  cheering  intelligence  that  it  was  worse  than  ever.  We  rode  between  four  and 
five  leagues  over  rocky  tables,  with  obscure  traces  of  a  road  that  may  have  once  existed ; 
that  is,  there  were  fewer  rocks  where  we  went  than  there  were  on  either  side  of  us,  until  at  last 
we  reached  a  place  where  flie  road  was  evidently  artificial.  In  some  places  it  was  cuf  in 
hill-sides,  in  others,  it  was  cleared  of  all  the  larger  rocks,  so  that  travelling  was  comparative- 
ly easy.  Eventually  we  entered  a  caiion,  and  here  the  road-way  was  a  regular  dug-way,  or, 
more  properly  speaking,  what  remained  of  one.  In  fact,  where  it  was  not  broken  by  the 
rains,  it  was  almost  wide  enough  to  drive  a  wagon;  but  the  frequent  jump-ofis  and  jump- 
overs  would  have  tested  to  the  utmost  the  strength  of  the  best  "  Concord." 

In  some  places  it  was  almost  impossible  to  ride  across  the  gullies  worn  by  the  rains  of 
half  a  century.  But  we  soon  found  that  we  had  antedated  our  troubles.  We  kept  up  the 
canon,  between  beetling  cliffs  that  threatened  to  bury  us  under  a  cairn  more  bulky,  if  not 
more  honorable,  than  ever  covered  the  remains  of  any  Celtic  hero,  until  at  last  we  could  not 
tell,  two  hundred  yards  ahead,  which  way  we  would  have  to  turn  to  find  our  way  out.  The 
road,  however,  was  well  marked,  aud  our  guide  had  been  through  it  before.  Beaching  the 
end  of  the  caiion  proper,  it  struck  up  a  side  branch,  the  steepness  of  which  would  have  been 
appalling,  had  we  not  been  forewarned.  We  picked  our  way,  as  best  we  could,  around  and 
over  the  water-worn  boulders,  often  using  the  united  inducements  of  lash,  spur,  and  voice  to 
pei'suade  our  cautious  mules  to  undertake  some  difficult  feat,  until  at  last  even  the  Mexicans 
dismounted,  considering  it  unsafe  to  ride  fiirther.  Finally  we  were  obliged  to  halt  the  pack- 
train,  and  after  driving  our  saddle-animals  through  the  rest  of  the  bad  part  of  the  pass,  we 
unloaded  packs  and  pack-saddles,  carried  them  ourselves  to  smooth  ground  beyond,  drove 
up  the  pack  animals,  and  reloaded. 

Ironmonger,  the  cook,  as  usual,  had  more  than  his  share  of  trouble.  It  had  been  his 
boast  that  little  Johnny,  his  mule,  was  so  docile,  that  he  would  do  any  thiug  he  was  told. 
After  15  minutes  of  hard  work,  during  which  he  skinned  his  knuckles,  and  did  irrcparalilc 
damage  to  his  temper,  he  found  it  necessary  to  call  in  the  united  assistance  of  tlie  wliole 
party  to  persuade  Johnny  to  pass  a  narrow  place  between  two  rocks.  (Mem. — Ironmonger 
never  boasted  about  the  wonderful  docility  of  his  mule  afterward.) 

But,  joking  aside,  tlie  condition  of  this  pass  is  disgraceful.  The  united  labor  of  three 
men  for  one  week  would  make  it,  if  not  a  good  road,  at  least  very  passable.  All  that  Is 
reipiired  is  to  throw  large  stones  into  the  worst  holes,  or  to  cut  a  trail  on  the  hill-side  around 
two  or  three  bad  places.  Yet,  persons  who  have  lived  in  this  vicinity  all  their  lives,  and 
who  cross  this  pass  many  times  every  year,  while  they  say  it  ought  to  be  repaired,  never  think 
to  do  the  first  thing  themselves  toward  accomplishing  that  object. 

Having  passed  the  Infierno  we  descended  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  ridge  into  a  rocky 
flat,  which  extends  to  the  east  coast,  and  camped  at  the  deserted  ranch  of  Santa  Marta. 
Here  we  had  every  thing  that  goes  toward  making  a  desirable  camp — wood,  water,  and 
grass.  By  previous  arrangement  with  Don  Ventura  Arce,  to  whom  this  rancho  belongs,  and 
who  had  some  cattle  here,  we  killed  a  yearling  calf,  jerked  the  meat,  reserving  as  much  as  we 
could  eat  fresh,  and  had  a  general  overhauling  of  our  wardrobes,  washing  and  mending 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORXLV.  103 

wherever  it  was  needed.  In  both  these  latter  operations  we  liad  beeomc  so  expert  that  the 
poorest  hand  in  tlie  party  woidd  beabh'  to  stait  in  business,  either  as  hiunth-y  man  or  tailor, 
witliout  further  preparation,  and  witli  reasonably  lair  prospects  of  success,  especially  if  his 
customers  were  not  particular. 

On  the  12th  we  rode  seven  leafjues  past  Ilosarito,  wiiere  there  are  a  spring  and  a  deserted 
miniHg-camp,  to  a  spring  on  the  eastern  base  of  the  mountain  called  San  Juan.  After  leaving 
the  arroyo  of  .Sta.  ilarta  we  crossed  a  valley  ten  miles  wide,  mostly  more  or  less  rocky,  though 
with  some  good  soil. 

At  Rosjirito  there  is  a  fine  spring  of  good  water  under  the  bank  in  the  head  of  a  little 
arroyo.  "This  is  so  inconspicuous  that  it  is  doubtful  whether  a  person  unac(|uainted  with  the 
country  could  tuid  it.  Near  it  is  an^old  arastra,  and  the  otlier  aiJpurtciKnircs  df  a  mining- 
camp  long  since  deserted.  Some  futile  attempts  have  been  made  to  mine  the  little  strings  of 
qtnn+ribund  m  tTie  metamorphie  sandstone  of  the  high  range  back,  but  the  quantity  of  gold 
lias  proved  too  simill  to  be  remunerative,  or  the  vein  had  given  out.  From  Rosarito  to  our 
camp  the  ground  was  a  succession  of  barren  ridges  separated  by  sandy  arroyos.  The  spring 
of  San  Juan  is  off  to  one  side  of  the  main  trail  a  mile  or  two,  in  a  deep  caiion.  The  water  is 
much  warmer  than  the  surrounding  atmosphere,  being  78°  Fahr.  at  six  p.  m.,  when  the  air 
was  but  SV^,  the  coldest  day  we  had  had  so  fiir. 

March  13th,  we  crossed  the  main  ridge  again,  and,  entering  the  head  of  a  caSon,  proceeded 
down  it  to  Santa  Gertrudes.  The  route  is  very  rocky,  but,  after  the  Infierno,  any  road  seemed 
good.  The  rocks  of  the  eastern  side  of  this  portion  of  the  peninsula  are  everywhere  much 
disturbed,  but  on  approaching  Sta.  Gertrudes  they  become  again  horizontal.  The  elevating 
force  evidently  came  from  the  more  modern  volcanic  rocks  and  from  the  granite  intrusions,  as 
is  here  beautifully  illustrated.  A  belt  of  granite  crosses  the  arroyo  so  as  to  bring  to  the  sur- 
face a  fine  body  of  water  ;  but  the  overlying  sandstones  are  horizontally  stratified  and  not  in 
the  least  disturbed  by  it,  the  lower  beds  abutting  against  the  sloping  sides  of  the  granite  mass, 
while  the  higher  beds  lie  horizontally  across  all ;  showing  that  the  exposure  of  the  granite  is 
due  to  denudation  and  not  to  intrusion.     Where  the  granite  belt 'first  shows  itself  in  the  bed'^'N 

(of  the  arroyo,  it  brings  to  the  surface  a  fine  little  body  of  excellent  water,  sufficient  to  irrigate     / 
a  small  tract  of  land  cultivated  as  a  garden.     All  such  springs  as  this  can  be  depended  upon- 
as  permanent.     They  are  said  to  vary  but  little  whether  the  season  be  good  or  bad.     Santa 
/    Gertrudes  is  a  miserable  little  collection  of  three  orj^our  adobe  houses,  inhabited  by  a  coupTe  of 
—      1     families  of  Indians.     They  eke  out  a  miserable  subsistence  by  cultivating  half  an  acre  or  so 
\   of  garden  and  by  milking  a  few  cows  ;  cheese  being  their  principal  article  of  food.     There  is  a 
' .  small  church  here,  in  a  pretty  good  state  of  preservation,  but  it  has  nothing  about  it  of  interest. 
Approaching    Santa    Gertrudes   we    encountered,  for    the   first    time,  a  remarkable  plant 
which  we  afterward  found  to  be  very  common,  especially  in  the  mountains,  to  near  Rosario. 
It  is  called  by  the  natives  "  cirio,"  and  belongs  probably  either  to  the  genus  Fouqmera  or 
y  £t'OHt(iu,'    In  its  habits  of  growth  and  in  its  size  it  resembles  somewhat  the  columnar  cactus, 

If^tii  consisting  of  a  single  shaft  from  thirty  to  fifty  feet  high,  a  foot  or  more  in  diameter  at  the 
^^UIM  tj^^^^  ^^^  tapering  gradually  to  two  or  three  inches  thick  at  the  top.  It  sends  out  no  branches, 
-  '  unless  from  a  wound ;  the  top  may  divide  into  two  or  three  which  always  appear  to  be  abnormal. 
The  leaves  are  identical  with  the  Palo  Adan,  but  are  arrayed  on  twigs  a  foot  or  so  in  length, 
profusely  interspersed  with  thorns  ;  tiie  flowers  are  said  to  be  like  those  of  Palo  Adan,  except 
that  they  are  white ;  they  grow  on  two  or  three  long  spikes  at  the  extreme  sunnnit  of  tlie 
shaft.  The  most  marked  jjcculiarity  of  the  tree,  however,  is  the  internal  structure  of  the 
trunk.  The  bark  is  a  thin,  yellowish-brown  skin ;  this  covers  a  layer  of  fleshy  substance, 
similar  to  that  of  the  large  cactus  ;  inside  of  the  layer,  which  is  from  one  to  three  inches  thick, 
is  a  cylinder  of  woody  texture,  hardly  thicker  than  the  hand,  and  which,  after  the  death  of 
the  plant  and  the  decay  of  the  other  parts,  remains  as  a  network  of  tough  wood.  Inside  of 
this  cylinder  is  the  heart,  a  mass  of  flesh  of  just  about  the  consistency  of  a  firm  turnip.  The 
whole  ap|)earanee  of  the  plant  is  peculiar,  and  the  only  comparison  that  I  can  make  is  that 
when  seen  at  a  little  distance  it  looks  like  a  tall  hoi)-pole,  covered  with  a  rather  scanty  vine. 
The  natives  consider  it  a  cactus,  from  the  resemblance  of  its  internal  structure  to  that  family. 
My  learned  friend,  Dr.  Behr,  to  whom  I  have  carefully  described  it,  says  it  must  belong  to  one 
of  the  two  genera  named  above,  or  at  least  to  the  same  family. 

From  Santa  Gertrudes  we  rode  eight  leagues  through  a  very  desert  country,  to  a  place 
called  Cahnilli.  The  road  ran  half  a  mile  in  the  arroyo  of  Sta.  Gertrudes,  thence  across  a 
rocky  mesa  two  leagues,  descending  into  a  low,  flat,  desert  valley,  studded  with  innumerable 
clumps  of  tree  yucca,  whose  gnarleil  and  twisted  stems,  each  termhiating  in  a  great  awkward 
bunch  of  bayonet-like  leaves,  though  ugly  enough  of  themselves,  served  to  relieve  the  eye 
after  the  apparently  interminable  monotony  of  cactus.  Travelling  along  this  waste,  after 
suffering  from  the  glare  of  the  white  and  nearly  naked  soil,  we  entered  the  granite  again  and 
soon  struck  down  an  arroyo,  ruiming  out  of  the  valley  through  a  range  of  hills.  A  couple  of 
miles  down  the  arroyo  we  found  the  sand  wet,  and  several  willows  growing  on  the  banks. 
By  dint  of  hard  work,  digging  in  the  sand,  we  succeeded  in  obtaining  a  supply  of  miserable 
water,  strongly  impregnated  witii  sulphur,  and  having  a  taste  of  decayed  vegetable  matter. 
We  were,  however,  very  thankful  for  it,  since  the  next  water  was  at  least  twenty  miles  off. 
Next  morning,  nothing  loath  to  leave  Colmilli,  we  followed  the  arroyo  to  where  it  opened 


104:  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

into  a  valley  like  the  one  we  crossed  the  previous  daj' ;  crossing  this  also,  we  entered  another 
arroyo  and  travelled  up  it,  making  about  seven  and  a  half  leagues  in  all.  The  ascent  of  the 
latter  canon  was  extremely  bad.  It  was  full  of  large  rocks  and  quicksands ;  the  trail,  if  any 
had  ever  existed,  had  been  completely  washed  away,  and  between  the  difficulties  of  getting 
the  mules  along  among  the  recks,  and  the  occasional  variation  of  dragging  one,  cargo  and  all, 
out  of  a  quicksand,  our  poor  Mexicans  had  very  hard  work.  More  than  once  they  had  to 
take  the  load  off  a  mule  before  they  could  extricate  her  from  a  particular  soft  spot,  and 
then  she  would  have  to  be  almost  lifted  out  bodily.  In  this  respect  mules  are  very  foolish:  a 
horse,  when  in  difficulty,  will  second  the  endeavors  of  those  trying  to  help  him ;  but  a 
mule,  once  thoroughly  scared,  seems  to  lose  all  control  of  himself,  and  will  often  give  up  in 
despair.  After  struggling  through  all  the  worst  part  of  the  cafion,  we  reached  a  flat  with 
some  grass,  and  plenty  of  wood.  We  were  all  unusually  tired  and  glad  to  avail  ourselves  of 
the  first  opportunity  to  stop.  The  camp  was  not  a  particularly  desirable  one,  but  we  did  not 
like  to  leave  it,  not  knowing  how  far  the  next  spot  would  be  where  a  camping  would  be 
possible.  The  next  day  we  resumed  our  journey,  and  two  leagues  took  us  to  the  deserted 
mining-camp  of  San  Sebastian.  Here  we  found  a  fine  stream  of  water,  a  pretty  fair  shanty 
of  palm-leaves,  and,  what  was  more  desirable  than  either,  a  flat  of  several  acres,  almost  free 
from  stones,  and  with  a  profusion  of  excellent  grass.  Such  an  opportunity  was  not  to  be 
thrown  away.  Our  poor  mules  were  very  tired,  and  had  been  on  rather  scanty  feed  for  several 
days  ;  so  we  unloaded  at  once,  turned  them  out,  and  made  ourselves  as  much  at  home  in  the 
house  as  if  it  had  been  built  for  our  especial  accommodation.  We  were  detained  here  for  the 
next  two  days  by  rain,  and  the  house  being  somewhat  out  of  repair,  we  were  obliged  to  mend  it ; 
the  whole  party  went  to  work  collecting  palm-leaves  and  patched  up  the  old  roof  until  we  made  a 
very  respectable  shelter  of  it.  Our  arrival  here  was  very  opportune,  because  this  was  the 
only  thing  resembling  a  house  along  the  road  from  Sta.  Gertrudes  to  San  Borja,  and  had  the 
Fain  overtaken  us  at  any  other  part  of  the  route,  we  would  have  suffered  great  inconvenience. 
As  it  was,  the  mules  had  three  days'  rest  and  an  abundance  of  food,  so  that  we  were  actually 
gainers  by  the  forced,  though  not  unwilling  detention.  During  our  stay  we  had  the  opportunity 
of  repairing  all  damages  incidental  to  travel,  and  at  one  time  we  might  have  been  taken  for  a 
camp  of  tailors.  Many  are  the  shifts  to  which  the  luckless  traveller  in  an  uninhabited  country 
is  o))liged  to  resort.  Pieces  of  flour-sacks,  coat-tails,  and  even  the  terminal  parts  of  certain 
under-garments,  were  pressed  into  service  to  repair  the  rents  and  thin  places  on  the  knees 
and  elsewhere  on  our  pantaloons ;  so  that  by  the  time  we  were  ready  to  leave  San  Sebastian 
our  costumes  began  to  present  a  more  varied  and  picturesque  aippearancc  than  is  prescribed 
by  the  rules  of  fashion,  or  would  be  permitted  outside  of  the  limits  of  a  masquerade.  But 
tailoring  did  not  occupy  our  entire  attention.  Some  attempt  at  mining  had  been  made  here 
on  a  small  scale,  and  we  examined  the  work  as  well  as  we  could  without  anybody  to  guide  us. 
An  old  arrastre,  with  fragments  of  quartz  scattered  around,  showed  that  gold  had  been  the 
metal  sought.  On  himting  around  in  the  neighboring  hills  we  found  that  there  were  numerous 
small  holes  made  on  a  little  streak  of  quartz  outcrop,  but  nowhere  had  any  regular  mining 
been  done.  No  veins  of  any  importance  had  been  found,  and,  as  we  afterward  learned,  the 
quartz  found  had  never  yielded  enough  gold  to  pay  current  expenses.  The  whole  thing  had 
been  an  experiment,  and  had  proved  unsuccessful. 

At  last,  on  Tuesday  morning,  March  19th,  we  broke  up  camp  in  San  Sebastian,  and  leaving 
a  diminutive  seven  by  nine  specimen  of  the  stars  and  stripes  fluttering  over  our  hospitable 
shelter,  as  a  memento  of  our  visit,  we  climbed  the  hill-side  until  we  reached  the  summit  of 
the  mesa.  We  rode  along  this  some  six  leagues,  crossing  many  deep  valleys  and  winding 
between  deep  arroyos  which  cut  the  tables  here  into  an  infinitude  of  fragments,  until  we  sud- 
denly, and,  to  all  but  our  guide,  unexpectedly  found  ourselves  on  the  brink  of  a  chasm  about 
1,200  feet  deep.  This  was  the  canon  of  the  Paraiso  or  Paradise,  and  certainly,  if  difficulty  of 
access  is  the  criterion,  it  deserves  its  name.  For  many  miles  the  brink  is  a  vertical  ])recii)ico 
of  volcanic  rocks,  in  some  places  several  hundred  feet  high,  without  a  break  ;  below  these  are 
granite  cliffs  so  steep  that  even  a  goat  would  find  a  difliculty  in  getting  foothold.  The  trail, 
bad  enough,  is  still  sufficiently  entire  to  permit  animals  to  clamber  down  without  serious 
risk  of  lu'caking  their  necks.  After  passing  the  volcanic  rocks  which  cnp  the  mesa,  it  is  a 
very  fair  trail,  cut  in  the  soft  granite  and  winding  down  the  face  of  the  clift's  to  the  l)ottom. 
As  seen  from  above,  the  valley  appears  to  be  a  thicket  of  mesquit,  cactus,  and  fan-palms,  with 
occasional  openings  of  grass-land  ;  but  on  reaching  it  we  found  the  greater  part  was  clothed 
with  a  sufficiency  of  grass,  and  in  some  places  it  was  very  abundant.  Some  nice  jueecs  of 
level  land,  with  pretty  good  soil,  exist  in  little  bays  and  nooks,  though  the  greater  part  of 
the  bottom  shows  that  it  is  subject  to  overflow  during  the  rainy  season.  We  found  various 
■i  traces  of  ibrmcr  occupation,  such  as  an  old  corral,  ))art  of  the  frame  of  a  house,  and  the  re- 
(  mains  of  an  irrigating  ditch,  now  filled  up.  The  bad  weather  had  not  entirely  left  us,  and  we 
had  every  prospect  of  a  rainy  night.  Alter  holding  a  council  of  war,  we  concluded  to  build  a 
shelter,  and  in  an  hour  had  a  fine  large  thatch  of  palm-leaves,  sufficiently  water-tight  to  answer 
our  i)urpose.  We  were  not  disappointed,  and  before  morning  had  good  reason  to  be  pleased 
with  the  result  of  our  forethought.  A  drizzling  shower  continued  until  the  middle  of  the 
next  morning,  but,  anxious  to  save  all  the  time  we  could,  we  started  in  sjute  of  it  and  were 
rewarded  by  the  sun  coming  out  almost  as  soon  as  we  reached  the  mesa  on  the  north  side. 


EXPLORATIOX    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  205 

The  climb  here  is  not  so  steep  nor  so  b:iJ  as  it  is  on  the  south,  niiining  along  the  crest  of  a 
ridge  most  of  the  way.  From  the  Paraiso  wc  rode  live  leagues  to  anotlier  canon,  where  there 
is  a  single  si)ring  under  the  edge  of  the  bank,  known  as  the  Agua  dc  la  Cahra,  or  "  (Joat 
Spring."  This  ride  was  so  nearly  like  that  of  the  previous  day  that  the  same  description  will 
answer  for  both  ;  a  broken  rocky  mesa,  covered  with  loose  angular  rocks,  cut  by  innumerable 
canons,  and  with  occasional  depressions,  making  little  grassy  valleys.  In  the  caiion  of  the 
Cabra  there  was  but  little  grass,  but  on  the  me~a  the  mules  found  good  feed. 

On  the  '21st  we  rode  two  leagues  over  the  same  kind  of  mesa,  and  then,  descending  into  a 
sandy  and  stony  valley,  followed  it  down  another  league  to  San  Borja.  The  granite  does  not 
show  itself  along  this  part  of  the  route  as  much  as  it  did  below.  It  is  covered  by  a  heavy 
cap  of  volcanic  ashes  and  trachyte,  which  form  tables  sloping  to  the  northwest.  Beyond  these 
as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  is  a  maze  of  jagged  ridges  covering  nearly  the  whole  field  of  vision, 
and  disposed  without  any  apparent  order.  "We  entered  San  Borja  and  presented  a  letter  of 
introduction  to  Don  Pedro  Xunez,  who  proved  to  be  not  only  the  principal  man  of  the  place, 
but  a  full-blooded  Indian,  and  one  who  was  deservedly  more  proud  of  his  blood  than  the 
majority  of  his  mongrel  fellow-citizens,  who  had  no  origin  worth  speaking  of  to  boast  upon, 
and  who,  for  their  lives,  could  not  tell  whether  they  were  more  Spanish  or  Indian,  though 
their  appearance  would  indicate  the  latter.  Don  Pedro  occupies  the  mission  buildings,  and 
on  my  reading  the  letter  to  him,  he  at  once  placed  at  our  disposal  a  suite  of  unoccupied  rooms. 
lie  acts  as  a  sort  of  chief  by  inheritance  among  the  Indians,  as  justice  of  the  peace  and  general 
agent  of  the  Government  for  the  municipality,  and,  in  short,  as  head  man  generally  over  a 
region  extending  from  coast  to  coast,  and  for  a  hundred  miles  or  more  each  way,  north  and 
south.  Ilis  subjects  are  almost  without  exception  Indians  of  greater  or  less  purity  of  blood, 
and  neither  he  nor  they  can  either  read  or  write.  The  schoolmaster  Las  not  yet  reached  this 
benighted  region. 

The  mission  consists  of  a  very  good  stone  church  with  an  arched  roof,  never  entirely  fin-, 
ished;  suites  of  rooms  of  stone  surrounding  f^o  sides  of  a  court-yard,  while  on  a  third"  side 
are  the  remains  of  a  very  extensive  series  of  apartments  built  of  adobe  and  now  utterly  ruined. 
Scattered  around  irregularly  in  front  of  those,  is  a  number  of  modern  adobe  shanties.  The 
population  consists  of  perhaps  a  dozen  or  twenty  persons,  mostly  the  relatives  of  Don  Pedro. 
Besides  the  younger  of  the  population,  there  is  an  old  Indian  named  Melchor,  who  was  said 
by  V'osco  in  1862  to  be  108  years  old.  He  is  totally  blind  and  deaf,  and  hobbles  around  the  ' 
place,  the  sole  remnant  of  the  principal  tribe  subjugated  by  the  missionaries.  The  gardens, 
all  belonging  to  Xunez,  are  cultivated  on  a  small  scale  ;  barely  sufBcient  to  furnish  subsist- 
ence to  their  owner  and  his  dependants.  The  available  land  is  moderately  extensive,  but  the 
supply  of  water  for  irrigation  is  limited.  They  also  milk  a  number  of  cows,  and  make  a  consid- 
erable (piantity  of  cheese.  Having  obtained  froni  Xunez  a  short  vocabulary  of  the  Coehirai 
language,  given  him  some  remedies  for  a  sick  daughter,  and  exchanged  a  little  flour  for  some 
fresh  beef,  we  started  on  the  morning  of  the  22d  for  the  west  coast.  The  peninsula  is  extreme- 
ly narrow  here.  They  say  it  is  but  six  leagues,  eighteen  miles,  by  the  trail  to  the  bay  of  the 
Guardian  Angel  on  the  east  side,  while  we  reached  Rosarito,  a  league  from  the  west  coast,  in 
eight  leagues,  or  twenty-four  miles.  The  width  of  the  land  therefore,  in  a  straight  line,  can- 
not be  more  than  35  miles,  since  there  must  be  a  loss  of  at  least  ten  miles  from  the  windings 
of  the  trail. 

The  most  direct  trail  from  San  Borja  is  to  Calamujuet  by  way  of  Yubai,  but  we  had  a 
double  object  in  making  the  detour  by  way  of  Rosarito.  Although  nearly  twice  as  far  as  the 
straight  road,  we  would  find  better  water  and  more  of  it  on  this  route,  and  we  desired  to  visit 
some  copper-miacs  said  to  exist  near  the  coast.  Mines  of  silver  are  said  to  exist  in  the  moun- 
tains about  San  Borja,  but  the  story  is  too  old  and  too  familiar  to  deceive  an  old  Californian. 
Tiie  same  story  is  toild  in  every  mission  of  Upper  California.  In  the  mountains,  not  far  off, 
are  old  s^vpr-mines,  formerly  known  to  and  worked  by  the  missionaries.  Tliey  were  very 
rich",  auifnot  only  furnished  much  of  the  means  for  carrying  on  the  ponderous  and  expensive 
machinery  of  a  large  mission,  but  the  worthy  padres  appeared  to  take  an  especial  pride  in 
having  all  their  alter  service  made  of  silver  frcfm  their  own  especial  mine.  The  secret  of  the 
mine  is  still  extant,  but  is  in  the  possession  of  some  old  decrepit  Indian,  perhaps  blind  and 
b.)weJ  under  the  weight  of  a  century.  This  aged  individual,  usually  an  old  wonian,  would  not 
divulge  the  secret  for  worlds,  from  fear  of  the  threats  ofexeommunicationm;ule  by  apriest 
whose  very  grave  is  now  forgotten.  So  the  story  runs ;  the  mines  have  been  searched  for  for 
nearly  two  decades,  ever  since  the  American  occupation  of  California,  but  always  unsuccess- 
fully. I  myself  have  assisted  in  these  excursions  on  several  occasions,  and  I  was  too  well 
l)osted  to  be  deceived  by  the  same  threadbare  narrative.  Nevertheless,  these  stories  find  iie- 
lievers  like  the  very  authentic  accounts  of  the  treasures  buried  by  Captain  Kidd,  and  the 
search  for  the  long-lost  silver-mines  has  not  yet  been  abandoned  even  in  Upper  California. 

Leaving  San  Borja,  we  travelled  all  day  down  a  dry,  sandy  arroyo  through  a  beautiful 
assortment  of  cactus,  including  several  species  new  to  ns,  until  we  reached  a  marsh  cov- 
ered with  salt  grass  and  rushes,  and  interspersed  with  innumerable  ponds  of  brackish 
water.  This  is  Rosarito,  and  here  we  found  a  little  house  built  of  rushes  and  belonging  to 
a  young  Frenchman,  who  had  accompanied  us  from  Saa  Borja,  partly  because  he  had  noth- 


108  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    A]sD 

ing  better  to  do,  aud  partly  because  we  desired  to  see  some  mines  ia  Trhich  he  had  an  enor- 
\^  mous  fortune  in  prospective. 
jJ  Our  French  friend,  who  called  himself  John,  had  built  this  house  while  prospecting  in  the 

1/  vicinity,  and  now,  with  an  air  of  the  greatest  hospitality,  placed  his  mansion  and  his  exten- 
./^A  sive  domains  at  our  disposal.  The  latter  were  fiir  more  satisfactory  in  quantity  than  quaUty, 
'     '  but  the  former  proved  to  be  "  a  deception  and  a  snare."     We  made  camp  here,  and  the  nest 

morning,  leaving  the  cook  and  Domingo  to  take  care  of  all  we  left  behind,  v/e  started  south- 
ward, accompanied  by  Jesus  and  our  new-found  friend.  We  rode  along  the  coast  about  seven 
leagues,  and,  entering  a  canon  about  a  mile,  found  a  pretty  little  sprmg,  high  up  on  the 
face  of  the  hill,  in  a  place  where  nobody,  unacquainted  with  its  locality,  would  ever  look  for 
water.  The  caiion  in  which  we  camped  is  called  the  Trinidad,  and  is  probably  the  lower 
part  of  that  which  is  known  as  La  Cabra  above.  After  supper,  the  weather  looking  threat- 
ening, we  explored  the  vicinity  to  see  if  we  could  find  a  shelter,  auJ  selecting  a  cave  formed 
by  an  overhanging  ledge  of  rock  in  the  direct  bed  of  the  steep  water-course,  we  moved  all 
our  saddles  and  other  baggage  to  it,  and  made  our  beds  on  the  level  sandy  floor.  Before 
morning  a  steady  drizzling  rain  set  in  and  continued  all  the  next  day,  which  was  Sunday, 
and  a  drearier  Sunday  I  do  not  think  I  ever  spent.  All  Sunday  night  it  rained  hard,  and 
in  the  morning  we  had  a  beautiful  cascade  above  us,  where  the  water  made  a  sheer  leap  of 
200  feet,  scattering  into  a  sheet  of  spray  long  before  it  struck  the  rocks.  In  front  of  our 
cave  was  a  little  rivulet  which,  running  down  the  cation,  crossed  the  roof  of  our  shelter,  and 
jumped  clear  of  us,  splashing  and  spluttering  among  the  stones  a  few  feet  below.  Still  far- 
ther down  in  the  main  caiion  a  furious  I'iver  was  roaring  and  foaming  where  the  day  before 
had  been  a  dry  bed,  sand,  and  boulders.  Here  was  a  nice  prospect  before  us  ;  we  had  done 
nothing,  had  but  two  days'  provisions  left,  three  days'  work  to  do,  and  no  certainty  that  we 
were  not  shut  in  by  impassable  streams.  On  going  out  on  the  hill  we  saw  there  was  clear 
sky  to  windward,  and  we  determined  to  visit  our  mine,  which  was  not  only  the  best  known  and 
most  developed,  butal.^o  the  nearest.  Accordingly,  leaving  Jesus  with  the  pack-mule  and 
all  unnecessary  baggage,  we  went  to  Larroque's  mine,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Arroyo  del  Paraiso. 
We  were  obliged  to  make  three  efforts  to  cross  the  stream  before  we  succeeded  in  passing  it. 
It  was  so  deep  that  we  could  find  but  one  place  where  we  would  not  have  to  swim,  and  so 
rapid  that  our  mules  could  hardly  stand  up  against  the  force  of  the  current.  This  was  a 
couple  of  miles  out  on  the  plain.  To  have  tried  it  in  the  canon  would  have  been  sheer  mad- 
ness. 

A  few  minutes  at  the  mine  served  to  convince  us  of  its  character.  A  streak,  in  the  granite, 
of  copper  stains,  accompanied  by  small  ((uantities  of  carbonate  and  red  oxide  of  copper  and  a 
little  copper  glance,  but  without  the  slightest  trace  of  vein  structure,  constitute  the  mine.  A 
hole,  18  feet  deep  and  10  feet  across,  is  all  the  work  that  has  been  done.  There  is  no  water 
within  ten  miles,  no  grass,  and  only  some  stunted  and  gnarled  tovote-trees,  three  and  four 
feet  high,  for  wood.  Tlie  place  could  not  possibly  be  more  desolate,  and  yet  here  Scuor  Larroque, 
a  gentleman  of  education  and  refinement,  one  fitted  to  grace  the  most  polished  circles  of  so- 
ciety, spent  months  alone,  working  with  pick  and  shovel  like  a  common  miner,  in  the  vain  hope 
and  belief  that  he  was  on  the  eve  of  acquiring  a  fortune.  If  any  one  has  a  desire  to  try  a  little 
Robinson  Crusoe  life,  he  could  not  find  a  better  opportunity  than  to  take  possession  of 
Larroque's  shanty.  He  will  have  an  excellent  field  for  the  display  of  his  ingenuity,  in 
overcoming  every  disadvantage  that  Nature  can  combine  in  one  spot.  He  will  find  no 
caves  in  the  hill-sides,  for  the  house  is  on  the  plain ;  no  wild  goats,  or  any  substitute, 
for  the  country  is  too  barren  to  support  any  higher  life  than  rattlesnakes  and  crows,  and 
I  believe  the  crows  make  their  living  principally  by  eating  rattlesnakes  that  have  died  of 
starvation;  and  as  to  man  Friday,  he  would  be  very  apt  to  continue  Crusoe  and  man  Friday 
combined  to  the  end  of  the  chapter. 

Having  seen  one  mine,  and  being  assured  that  the  other  was  similar,  "  only  a  great 
deal  better  looking"  (they  all  are),  we  expressed  ourselves  satisfied  and  returned  to  the 
camp  in  the  cave.  Our  first  appearance  was  greeted  by  a  column  of  smoke,  Jesus  being  on 
the  lookout  for  us,  and  by  the  time  we  reached  camp,  supper  was  nearly  ready.  This  time 
we  crossed  the  stream  high  up  in  the  caiion,  but  so  rapidly  had  it  fallen  that  it  was  now  hardly 
a  foot  deep. 

Next  morning  we  returned  to  Rosarito,  but  the  ground  was  extremely  disagreeable  to 
travel  on,  being  a  soft  gravel  saturated  wFth  the  late  rains  and  burying  our  mules'  feet  to 
the  fetlock  at  almost  every  step.  All  troubles  in  this  life  have  an  end,  and  at  last  we  reached 
camp  in  much  better  spirits  than  we  found  the  men  we  had  left  there.  They  had  a  dreadful 
woe-begone  and  generally  bedraggled  aspect — very  like  a  hen  that,  having  been  in  the  water, 
has  not  yet  thoroughly  dried  her  feathers.  Trusting  to  the  semblance  of  a  roof  overhead, 
they  found,  when  it  was  too  late,  that  it  only  served  to  collect  the  rain  into  streams  which, 
with  a  maddening  pertinacity,  insisted  on  dropping  into  their  faces  if  they  laid  down,  or  run- 
ning down  their  backs  if  they  sat  up.  They  had  tried  all  sorts  of  expedients,  but  without 
avail ;  every  thing  was  wet,  and  a  day  of  half  sunshine,  half  cloud,  had  hardly  served  to  get 
blankets  aud  clothing  into  a  state  fit  for  use.  Domingo,  with  the  stolidity  and  good  constitu- 
tion of  his  race,  had  not  sulfered  more  than  the  temjiorary  inconvenience  of  a  wetting;  but 
bis  companion  was  seriously  ill  with  rheumatism  aud  fever  for  a  week  afterward. 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  107 

On  this  side  excursion  \vc  followed,  most  of  the  way,  the  coast  road.  There  arc  two  routes 
from  San  Ignaeio  northward,  whicii  unite  again  at  Calaniujuot.  Tiie  shorter  one,  usually  trav- 
elled in  winter,  is  by  the  ])lains  ;  the  longer,  always  the  safest,  though  the  roughest,  goes  by 
Santa  Gertrudes  and  San  Borja.  It  was  the  latter  which  we  had  taken  ;  the  former  goes  down 
the  arroyo  from  San  Ignaeio,  crossing  some  low  tables,  seven  leagues  to  San  Angel,  where 
there  is  a  spring  of  very  salt  water,  almost  undrinkable ;  from  San  Angel  the  next  water  is 
Ojo  Liebre,  thirty  leagues.  The  Ojo  Liebrc  is  a  well  dug  in  the  plains.  It  is  much  resorted 
to  by  coyotes  and  smaller  wild  animals,  many  of  which  arc  drowned  in  it,  and  the  water  is  said 
to  be  always  unendurably  foul.  From  the  t)Jo  Liebre  the  next  water  is  El  Toro,  '20  leagues. 
This  water  is  not  to  be  depended  on,  especially  in  dry  seasons,  when  it  often  dries  up  entire- 
ly; when  it  does  exist,  it  is  always  salt  or  brackish.  From  the  Toro  it  is  eight  leagues  to 
Trinidad,  where  we  cam|)ed,  but  here  it  is  more  than  likely  that  a  stranger  would  fail  to  find 
the  water.  For  the  information  of  any  person  who  may  I'cad  this  and  wish  to  find  this  spring, 
I  will  describe  it,  so  that  he  cannot  fail  to  recognize  the  spot.  Riding  northward,  at  about 
six  or  seven  leagues  from  tlie  Toro  can  be  seen  some  very  low  round  hills  on  the  coast,  and 
just  north  of  these  hills  is  a  little  bay.  To  the  right  are  low  but  irregular  mountains,  ending 
quite  abruptly  along  the  margin  of  the  plain.  Nearly  opposite  the  bay  is  a  large  jnece  of 
mesa,  separated  from  the  irregularly-shaped  mountain  by  a  deep  cafion.  This  caiion  is  the 
Trinidad.  The  S[)ring  is  on  the  north  side  of  the  caiion,  about  a  mile  from  its  mouth,  and  at 
the  foot  of  a  white  bluff.  There  are  several  such  blufis  along  the  south  side  of  the  mesa,  but 
the  one  at  the  spring  is  the  farthest  one  up  the  cafion  that  can  be  seen  from  the  plain.  The 
spring  is  about  half  way  up  the  slope  of  the  hill,  and  its  position  can  be  recognized  at  a  little 
distance  by  the  presence  of  a  clump  of  fan-palms. 

I  have  been  thus  minute  in  my  description  of  the  position  of  this  spring,  because, 
although  it  has  the  best  water  that  can  be  found  on  the  coast  for  a  hundred  miles  or  more 
either  way,  it  is  nevertheless  known  to  but  few  even  of  the  Mexicans.  It  is  the  more  impor- 
tant, because  it  is  the  first  permanent  water  after  leaving  the  Toro,  where  water  cannot 
always  be  found. 

Leaving  Rosarito  on  the  2'7th,  we  rode  a  couple  of  leagues  north  to  a  little  spring  at  the 
base  of  a  hill  called  San  Domingo.  The  water  is  good,  but  from  some  unknown  cause  it  is 
unsafe  to  camp  here.  Animals  that  feed  on  the  grass  at  this  place  are  very  apt  to  be  poisoned. 
It  is  attributed  by  the  Mexicans  to  some  unknown  plant  which  they  call  "la  yerba"(the 
plant),  and  which  is  found  also  at  Yubai,  Santa  Maria,  Agua  Dulce,  and  Santa  Ursula.  It  is 
not  reported  as  occiuriug  elsewhere.  I  noticed  that  at  all  these  places  there  is  a  small  rush 
on  which  animals  feed  with  avidity,  and  which  grows  in  very  wet  ground.  Whether  this  is 
the  poisonous  plant,  or  wiiether  it  is  something  else,  I  was  unable  to  determine.  We  never 
stopped  longer  at  one  of  these  places  than  was  necessary  to  give  the  animals  water,  and  then 
pushed  on,  usually  camping  several  miles  from  the  water,  where  we  could  find  sufficient  pas- 
ture of  a  more  harmless  kind.  The  poison  is  said  to  be  very  active  and  invariably  fatal. 
Tlie  animal  aft'ected  shows  the  results  of  the  poison  by  first  reeling  and  staggering  like  a 
drunken  man,  he  then  lies  down  and  dies  within  two  or  three  hours  from  the  time  of  first 
attack.  From  San  Domingo  our  road  approached  the  coast,  reaching  a  lagoon  and  marsh  in  the 
arroyo  of  San  Andres,  five  and  a  half  leagues  from  Rosarito,  and  about  two  miles  from  the 
beach.  We  here  watered  our  mules,  filled  our  barrel,  and  went  about  a  mile  up  the  arroyo, 
where  we  had  tlie  finest  pasture  we  had  so  far  encountered  on  the  whole  route.  It  was  in 
this  valley  we  saw  the  first  antelope.  They  do  not  seem  to  be  common  below,  if  they  occur 
at  all.  The  antelope  live  almost  entirely  in  plains  and  large  valleys,  and  it  is  hardly  prob- 
able that  they  ever  pass  the  extensive  hilly  and  mountainous  tracts  which  lie  between  here 
and  the  more  southern  plains.  From  our  camp  in  the  arroyo  we  rode  all  day  on  level 
ground,  leaving  the  arroyo  about  noon  and  travelling  along  the  mesa  of  Santa  Ana,  which 
forms  one  side  of  an  extensive  valley,  making  a  camp  without  water.  Just  before  leaving  the 
arroyo  I  succeeded  in  killing  a  small  antelope  doe,  the  only  game  we  had  seen  since  leaving 
camp.  In  this  vicinity  game  is  extremely  scarce ;  we  had  been  living  cm  bacon  ibr  a  week, 
not  having  been  able  to  kill  even  so  much  as  a  hare  since  we  had  started  from  San  Borja. 
Tlie  fiesh  of  the  antelope  is  somewhat  like  goat  in  taste,  and  very  tough.  It  has  not  so 
pleasant  a  fiavor  as  that  of  deer.  From  the  camp  on  the  mesa  we  roile  nine  leagues  over 
level  ground,  cut  by  a  few  shallow  arroyos,  and,  descending  about  20  feet  into  the  arroyo  of 
Calamujuet,  stojjped  at  the  first  water  we  found.  The  watgr  is  slightly  brackish,  and  forms 
pools  in  the  sand  where  the  narrowing  of  the  canon  and  the  elevation  of  the  rocky  bed  bring 
it  to  the  surface.  The  camp  is  not  a  particularly  good  one,  but  this  spot  is  of  great  impor- 
tance to  travellers,  being  at  a  long  distance  from  other  water.  The  next  morning  we  broke  up 
camp,  rode  a  league  and  a  half  to  the  mouth  of  the  canon  opjiosite  the  old  mission,  and  made 
a  camp  again.  Accompanied  by  Jesus,  Mr.  Liiher  and  I  then  rode  to  a  distant  ridge,  from 
which  we  could  see  all  the  land  from  our  camp  to  the  coast  at  the  bay  of  San  Luis.  We 
were  thus  enabled  to  ascertain  definitely  that  there  was  not  the  slightest  obstruction  in  the 
way  of  a  very  easy  and  direct  railroad  route  from  coast  to  coast  along  this  line.  Any  other 
route  north  of  La  Paz  would  require  deej)  cuttings,  heavy  grades,  and  in  all  probability  some 
tunnelling ;  while  from  San  Luis  Bay  past  Calamujuet,  and  the  mesa  of  Sta.  Ana  to  the  arroyo 
of  San  Andres,  there  is  an  open   tract  of  level  country.     From  the  bay  on  the  east  side  the 


108  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

road  would  ascend  the  arrojo  of  Calamujuet,  rising  about  SO  feet  above  the  water-course  to 
the  mesa  by  a  very  gentle  grade.  From  the  mission  of  Calamujuet  there  would  be  about  sis 
miles  of  side-hill  cutting  along  the  canon  to  where  it  opens  out  into  the  mesa  of  Santa  Ana. 
Over  this  taljle  the  ground  is  mostly  perfectly  level,  though  in  some  places  slightly  rolling, 
but  without  a  single  hill.  Reaching  the  arroyo  of  San  Andreas,  the  line  would  descend  into 
the  broad  bottom-lands  and  follow  the  plane  in  a  nearly  straight  line  to  the  narrow  spot  at 
the  marsh.  Here  a  mile  of  side-hill  cutting  would  pass  the  canon,  and  reach  the  undulating 
plain  on  the  coast.  Not  a  bridge  nor  a  piece  of  trestle-work  would  be  required  on  the  whole 
route,  unless  small  bridges  should  be  considered  preferable  to  culverts  in  crossing  some  of 
the  dry  gullies.  The  greatest  ascent  or  descent  would  be  to  the  mesa  at  Calamujuet,  and 
from  the  mesa  of  Santa  Ana  to  the  valley  of  San  Andreas,  at  most  20  or  30  feet  each.  The 
distances  are,  approximately :  from  San  Luis  Bay  to  Calamujuet,  about  five  leagues ;  Cala- 
mujuet to  our  camp  on  the  mesa  of  Santa  Ana,  lOJ-  leagues  ;  from  this  camp  to  the  upper 
end  of  the  marsh  in  the  arroyo  of  San  Andres,  six  leagues ;  thence  to  the  coast,  one  to  two 
leagues — in  all,  22  to  24  leagues  ;  say,  as  an  outside  limit,  75  miles.  There  is  said  to  be  a  good 
harbor  at  or  near  the  mouth  of  the  arroyo  of  San  Andres,  but  of  this  I  cannot  speak,  since 
we  did  not  visit  it.  But  one  can  hardly  go  amiss  for  harbors  on  this  coast,  there  is  one  every 
few  miles,  and  some  of  them  are  excellent.  Should  a  railroad  ever  be  built  across  Northern 
Mexico,  this  route  will  undoubtedly  become  valuable,  since  it  will  save  two  or  three  days  of 
steaming.  The  great  drawback  in  all  this  country  is  the  entire  absence  of  all  woods  suitable 
for  lumber.  Mescjuit,  or  palo  bianco,  if  they  occur  in  sufficient  quantities  and  of  their  usual 
maximum  size,  would  answer  admirably  for  railroad  ties,  but  they  are  scarce,  and  one  of  suffi- 
cient thickness  is  very  uncommon.  Li  fact,  there  is  so  little  wood  of  any  kind  in  the  coun- 
try that,  in  all  probability,  fuel  for  the  engine  would  have  to  be  imported.  This  could,  how- 
ever, be  provided  against  in  the  course  of  time.  The  valley  of  San  Andres  is  at  least  ten 
miles  long  and  averages  a  mile  wide.  Black  locust  flourishes  evcrj'where  in  this  country  whei'e 
it  is  planted,  and  in  five  years,  with  the  excellent  soil  which  covers  nearly  the  whole  valley, 
extensive  artificial  forests  of  good-sized  trees  could  be  obtained.  This  last  is  not  an  idle 
suggestion.  The  experiment  has  been  tried  successftdly  in  Upper  California,  and  is  being 
tried  below  La  Paz  with  every  prospect  of  success.  The  tree  grows  rapidly,  and  makes  an 
excellent  fuel,  besides  requiring  but  little  care  in  starting  it.  The  day  after  our  arrival  at 
Calamujuet  being  Sunday,  we  remained  in  camp,  harassed  by  a  strong  cold  wind  that  blew 
constantly.  Wc  examined  the  ruins  of  the  mission  buildings,  which  stand  on  a  gravelly  mesa 
on  the  south  side  of  the  arroyo,  and  near  the  hills.  They  consist  of  three  or  four  small 
buildings  constructed  of  a  very  poor  gravelly  adobe.  They  are  roofless,  and  the  rains  of 
nearly  a  century  have  almost  destroyed  them.  The  church  is  a  little  structure  about  15  feet 
wide  by  25  feet  long,  and  a  broken-down  mass  of  adobe  at  one  end  shows  where  once  stood 
the  altar. 

A  couple  of  palm-poles  half  buried  in  the  debris  of  the  crumbling  walls  are  all  that  remain 
of  the  thatched  roof  which  once  protected  the  half-savage  worshippers  from  the  inclemencies 
of  the  weather.  Any  one,  having  doubts  of  the  sincere  piety  of  the  worthy  men  who  founded 
these  missions,  will  have  but  to  visit  such  a  spot  as  Calamujuet  or  Sta.  Maria,  to  convince 
himself  that  neither  fame  nor  worldly  gain  could  have  induced  them  to  leave  home,  friends, 
fortune,  and  every  thing  that  man  holds  dear  in  this  life,  'and  spend  the  best  years  of  their 
manhood  in  such  places  as  these.  Whatever  one's  creed,  it  is  impossible  not  to  honor  and 
respect  the  zeal  and  devotion  that  would  prompt,  and,  more  than  all,  sustain  such  continued 
sacrifices. 

On  Jlonda)',  April  1st,  we  left  Calannijuet  and  rode  three  or  four  leagues  to  San  Fran- 
cisquito,  where  we  watered  our  m\iles  and  filled  our  barrel,  after  which  we  went  on  to  a  point 
on  the  mesa  near  the  mouth  of  Santa  JIaria  caiion,  in  all  about  nine  leagues  from  Calamujuet. 
Here  we  made  camp  among  the  rocks,  having  plenty  of  wood  and  grass,  but  no  water  except 
what  wc  had  brought  with  us.  The  mountains  through  which  Calamujuet  cuts  its  way  rise 
rapidly,  culminating  near  Sta.  Maria  in  two  or  three  flat-topped  knobs.  Our  route  lay  over 
rocky  mesas  nearly  parallel  with  the  base  of  the  range,  and  a  mile  or  two  from  it. 

Next  morning  we  crossed  the  arroyo  of  Sta.  Maria  in  the  ]ilain  below  the  mouth  of  the 
caiion,  and  climbed  a  very  rocky  and  hilly  ti'ail  until,  having  reached  a  height  of  perhaps  1,500 
feet  above  the  sea,  we  descended  a  couple  of  hundred  feet  and  found  ourselves  in  a  sandy 
arroyo  in  the  bottom  of  a  deep  canon.  Ragged  granite  peaks  shut  us  in  on  every  side,  and 
below  us  the  canon  was  so  steep  and  full  of  rocks  that  it  was  impassable  for  horses,  if  not  for 
footmen.  Winding  our  way  amid  groves  and  tliickets  of  palms,  we  at  last  found  ourselves 
at  the  ruined  mission  of  Santa  Maria.  The  buildings,  consisting  of  a  church  and  two  or  three 
other  edifices,  all  of  adobe  and  roofless,  are  now  in  complete  ruins.  The  place  has  a  most  forbid- 
ding aspect ;  nothing  can  be  seen  t)ut  granite  rocks,  with  a  scattering  growth  of  cactus, 
while  down  the  caiion  is  the  sole  redeeming  feature,  a  winding  line  of  tall  and  graceful  palm- 
trees,  waving  with  the  slightest  breath  of  air.  No  grass  exists  here,  and  there  is  not  a  foot 
of  land  fit  for  cultivation.  Crossing  a  little  ridge  we  came  to  a  marsh  with  a  small  stream 
of  water.  Here  we  as  usual  filled  the  barrel,  and,  watering  the  mules,  started  to  climb  the 
ridge  to  cross  the  summit  for  the  last  time.  Our  patient  mules  had  hard  labor  to  work  their 
way  up  the  steep  ascent,  worn  smooth  by  the  travel  of  more  than  a  hundred  years.     In  some 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  109 

places  it  seemed  doubtful  whether  the  hoavior-loadeil  paek-aiiinuils  would  not  actually  full 
over  backward,  so  steep  was  the  trail,  and  it  was  with  feelings  of  intense  relief  that  we  saw 
the  last  one  safe  on  top  of  the  mountain.  From  the  summit  the  ground  slopes  gradually  to  the 
northwest,  somewhat  broken  by  low  ridges  of  granite,  but  without  any  deep  caiions.  Travel- 
ling a  few  miles  farther,  we  at  last  halted  in  a  little  canon  wliere  there  were  some  grass  and 
mesquit,  but  no  water.  We  had  come  nine  hard  leagues,  and  all  of  us,  animals  and  men, 
were  thoroughly  tired  out. 

Oh  the  3d  we  rode  seven  leagues,  the  first  half  of  it  being  over  a  most  peculiar  country. 
It  was  nearly  a  plain  of  granite,  covered  with  a  scanty  soil,  supporting  a  very  scattering 
growth  of  cactus,  while  innumerable  masses  of  granite,  projecting  above  the  soil  in  every 
direction,  were  weathered  into  tlie  most  fantastic  forms.  Here  and  tlicre,  scattered  over  the 
plain,  usually  several  miles  apart,  were  isolated  hills,  some  of  them  flat-toj)ped  and  capped 
with  volcanic  rocks,  while  others  were  so  ragged  that  no  painter  would  dare  to  copy  them 
for  fear  of  being  accused  of  exaggeration.  About  the  middle  of  the  day's  ride  we  reached  a 
dry  arroyo,  and  following  it  to  its  head  we  found  the  spring  known  as  Agua  Dulce,  or  sweet; 
water.  It  is  a  pool  twenty  or  thirty  feet  in  diameter,  several  feet  deep,  and  beautifully  clear. 
Our  tiiirsty  mules  drank  with  avidity,  and  after  procuring  a  supply  for  camp,  we  continued 
our  journey  to  the  plains  of  Buenos  Ayres.  After  riding  a  couple  of  leagues  over  volcanic 
fragments,  thickly  strewed  over  the  ground,  we  entered  a  broad  plain,  extending  to  the  north 
and  northeast  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  covered  with  clumps  of  mesquit-trees,  bushes, 
and  tree  yucca,  while  the  soil,  rich  and  fertile  and  without  stones,  was  clothed  with  a  profu- 
sion of  grass.  I  find  a  memorandum  on  the  margin  of  my  note-book  at  this  point,  "Not  a 
cactus  in  sight,"  followed  by  a  large  and  emphatic-looking  exclamation-mark.  This  was  not 
strictly  correct.  After  vrriting  it,  while  hunting,  I  saw  a  few  choreas,  but  they  were  so  scarce 
as  to  hardly  attract  attention.  It  was  the  first  time  we  had  camped  in  Lower  California 
without  being  surrounded  with  cactus,  and  we  fully  enjoyed  the  exemption.  The  plain  seems 
to  be  very  little  known,  to  the  northeast  of  where  the  road  crosses  it.  If  it  retains  its 
character  for  a  few  miles,  and  a  constant  supply  of  water  could  be  had,  it  would  prove  a 
valuable  stock  district.     So  far  as  known,  no  water  exists  in  any  part  of  it. 

Thursday  (5th),  rode  about  six  leagues  across  the  corner  of  the  plain  and  through  the  hills 
to  the  deserted  mission  of  San  Fernando.  This  mission,  founded  in  IVGS,  99  years  ago,  con- 
sists of  a  large  adobe  church,  now  entirely  in  ruins,  and  a  rather  extensive  series  of  rooms  in 
an  adjoining  building,  still  in  a  pretty  good  state  of  preservation.  They  wei'c  placed  on  the 
hill-side,  on  a  little  flat,  partially  artificial,  and  overlooking  a  marshy  tract  nearly  half  a 
mile  long.  Below  this  marsh  there  is  probably  as  much  as  a  hundred  acres  of  arable 
land,  and  the  remains  of  old  ditches  testify  that  at  least  a  portion  of  the  land  was  cultivated. 
A  party  of  Chilenos  or  Sonoriaus  occupied  the  mission  buildings  during  a  portion  of  1865 
and  180G  while  searching  in  the  neighboring  mountains  for  minerals  ;  but  the  fact  that  they 
went  away  and  opened  no  mines  is  pretty  good  proof  that  they  were  unsuccessful,  despite 
the  statement  of  Viosca  that  gold  is  found  in  the  vicinity.  At  the  mission  we  encountered 
the  first  species  of  the  California  ground-squirrel  {Spennopldlm,  apparently  Douglasce.)  They 
were  scarce,  however,  until  within  a  day's  ride  of  San  Diego. 

From  San  Fernando  we  rode  ten  leagues  across  rolling  and- hilly  country,  and  through 
another  range  to  a  rocky  plain  called  India  Flaca,  or  thin  Indian,  a  very  appropriate  name, 
since  any  Indian  or  white  man  cither  w'ho  should  live  here  a  few  weeks  would  be  sure  to  be 
thin  enough.  We  passed  the  place  called  the  Agua  Amarga  (bitter  water),  or  Santa  Ursula, 
where  we  obtained  a  supply  of  water  ibr  camp  use,  and  then  pushed  on  to  the  west  side  of 
the  aljovc  plain.  Camping  in  an  arroyo  near  the  western  margin  of  tlie  plain,  close  to  a  low 
range  of  hills,  we  found  a  sufficiency,  and  had  cactus  skeletons  and  maguey-stumps  for  fuel. 
We  had  become  so  accustomed  to  camping  without  water  that  we  hardly  noticed  its  absence. 
During  this  same  week  we  made  five  "  dry "  camps,  watering  our  mules  and  obtaining  a 
supply  of  water  in  our  barrel  some  time  during  the  day.  On  the  way  to-day  we  killed  a 
couple  of  rattlesnakes,  and  after  cutting  off  their  heads  carried  their  bodies  into  camp.  To 
the  great  disgust  of  the  Mexicans,  we  cooked  and  ate  them  ;  more,  it  is  true,  by  way  of  experi- 
ment than  any  thing  else.  They  are,  however,  very  palatable ;  the  flesh  is  a  little  tough, 
but  sweet,  without  bad  flavor,  and  resembles  eels  somewhat,  but  is  not  so  greasy.  The  Mexi- 
cans were  convinced  that  the  only  reason  why  I  had  not  been  poisoned  in  handling  their 
reported  venomous  lizards  and  toads,  and  in  eating  snakes,  was  because,  being  a  "  medico,"  I 
was  proof  against  poisons.  Our  immunity  did  not  reassure  them  in  the  least.  From  the 
India  Flaca  we  rode  five  leagues  to  Rosario,  where  we  bought  and  killed  a  sheep,  filled  our 
barrel,  and  went  two  leagues  farther  to  a  deep  caiion  in  the  coast  called  the  Arroyo  Honda, 
where  we  made  another  dry  camp.  Having  passed  Rosario,  we  were  told  to  expect  a  great 
improvement  in  the  country.  The  rocky  tracts  were  to  disappear,  and  beautiful  valleys  were 
to  take  their  place.  Of  a  truth,  there  was  a  great  change,  but  Rosario  is  rather  an  arbitrary 
point,  San  Queotia  would  be  a  nearer  approximation  to  the  truth.  At  the  Arroyo  Honda  we 
were  terribly  annoyed  by  a  sharp  cold  wind  that  blew  all  the  evening  and  nearly  all  night. 
We  could  hardly  keep  a  camp-fire  burning,  so  fiercely  did  it  blow.  We  were  not  sorry  in  the 
morning  to  leave  so  bleak  a  place,  and  rode  nine  leagues  to  San  Simon,  or,  as  it  has  lately 
been  christened,  the  city  of  Santa  Maria.     The  road  lay  along  the  coast,  much  of  it  on  the 


110  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

hard  sand-beach  and  rarely  out  of  sight  of  the  surf,  until  we  struck  inland  a  mile  or  two  below 
Sta.  Maria.  Approaching  the  place,  our  eyes  were  gladdened  by  the  sight  of  two  or  three  very 
American-looking  board  houses  and  a  well-cleared  piece  of  road,  broad  and  smooth  as  a  race- 
track. What  was  our  surprise,  on  riding  up  to  tlie  house,  to  find  a  couple  of  sign-boards  on 
one  corner,  one  bearing  the'  inscription  "  Hyde  Street,"  the  other  "  Barry  Street !  "  Without 
knowing  it  we  had  stumbled  on  an  embryo  American  town.  Wc  were  met  at  the  door  by 
an  elderly  man,  whose  name  we  afterward  learned  was  Porter.  He  welcomed  us  cordially, 
showed  us  where  to  put  our  baggage  and  saddles,  directed  the  men  where  to  find  pasture  for 
the  mules,  and  took  us  in,  treating  us  with  the  greatest  hospitality.  We  remained  over  the 
next  day,  and  learned  that  the  proposed  city  of  Santa  Maria  was  a  speculation  of  a  Judge 
Hyde,  of  San  Francisco,  based  on  the  problematical  event  of  his  being  able  to  make  this  the 
terrnrnus  of  the  best  road  across  the  mountains  to  the  Colorado.  A  large  sum  of  money  had 
been  spent  here,  and  all  that  remain  to  show  for  it  were  two  good  houses  and  one  very  poor 
one,  a  few  hundred  yards  of  useless  road  running  nowhere  on  a  plain,  a  corral,  and  a  little 
vegetable  garden.  The  port  is  so  small  and  shallow  that  the  little  vessel  of  eight  or  ten  tons, 
that  comes  here  occasionally,  has  a  difficulty  in  passing  the  bar ;  the  plain  on  which  the  future 
city  is  to  be  built  is  too  salt  to  admit  of  cultivation,  and  is  subject  to  overflows  when,  as  las-fc-- 
winter,  it  TS-coTcrcd"Trith^half  a  foot  or  more  of  water;  firewood  there  is  none,  except  a 
scanty  supply  of  willow,  and  the  general  resources  of  the  region  are  just  nil.  There  is  excel- 
lent grass  on  the  plains,  especially  among  the  willows  and  near  the  hills,  and  the  water,  which 
is  very  good,  is  reached  by  wells  of  from  three  to  twelve  feet  deep. 
^  Bidding  adieu  to  the  city  which  is  to  be,  we  went  eight  miles  to  the  salt-ponds  of. San 
Quentin.  These  we  found  deserted,  and  took  possession  of  th?.  house,  which  has  a  general 
looTTbf  dilapidation,  and  sadly  needs  repairs.  Fading  over  a  low  hill,  we  found  ourselves  on 
the  margin  of  one  of  the  lakes.  These  are  some  half  a  dozen  in  number,  and  cover  areas 
from  one  to  five  acres  each.  The  salt  crystallizes  in  the  mud-flats  around  the  margin,  in  sheets 
of  nearly  half  an  inch  thick.  This  is  collected  in  heaps,  and  needs  no  preparation  to  fit  it  for 
shipment.  Although  the  underlying  mud  is  often  very  soft,  they  can,  by  a  peculiar  manner  of 
shovelling,  lift  the  flakes  of  salt  almost  unsoiled  and  so  nearly  pure  that  it  is  unnecessary  to 
refine  it  for  ordinary  purposes.  Numerous  heaps  of  the  salt,  thus  collected,  are  standing  on 
the  dry  ground  around  the  lakes,  awaiting  transpo"rfa"flon.  The  quantity  is  estimated  at  about 
a  thousand  tons,  and  from  appearances  this  seems  to  be  about  the  real  amount.  Several  im- 
portant drawbacks  exist,  which  combine  to  prevent  the  profitable  working  of  this  deposit. 
.',The  only  market  of  importance  is,  of  course,  San  Francisco.  The  company  that  has  posses- 
sion of  the  property  holds  It  under  a  lease  from  the  Mexican  Government,  to  which  a  heavy 
royalty  has  to  be  paid ;  the  port  for  shipment  is  eight  or  ten  miles  distant  and  hauling  is 
expensive ;  add  to  this  the  cost  of  collecting  the  salt,  the  freight  to  San  Francisco,  the  duties 
here,  and  the  competition,  and  there  is  little  profit  left  for  the  producers.  On  the  little  ride 
of  a  mile  or  two  while  making  the  circuit  of  the  ponds,  we  found  rattlesnakes  rather  too 
Acommon  to  please  nervous  people.  We  killed  three  in  the  trail,  in  an  hour.  About  San 
1  Quentin  the  pasture  was  exactly  like  that  of  Upper  California  in  its  best  condition.  Alfilerillo 
I  alfalfa,  burr,  and  red  clovers  make  the  greater  part  of  the  forage-plants,  while  the  yellow 
Vnoppy,  primrose,  and  othei*  f\imiliar  flowers,  complete  the  resemblance.  In  fact,  the  belt  from 
nere  to  Rosario  may  be  laid  down  as  the  dividing  line  between  semi-tropical  floras  of  the 
lower  peninsula  and  the  more  northern  vegetation  of  Upper  California.  Many  species  of 
cactus  disappear  soon  after  leaving  Rosario,  as  well  as  a  large  number  of  the  other  plants 
with  wliich  we  had  become  familiar;  and  of  those  which  do  continue,  a  large  number  cling 
tenaciously  to  the  mountains  or  highlands,  and  are  even  there  scattered  and  thinning  out. 
On  the  other  hand,  we  had  noticed  for  more  than  a  week,  one  after  another  of  our  old  northern 
friends  coming  in,  first  scattered,  stunted,  and  evidently  away  from  home,  but  gradually  in- 
creasing in  number  and  size,  almost  insensibly,  l)ut  none  the  less  surely  sup])lanting  their 
southern  neighbors.  This  overlapping  of  forms  takes  place  much  more  markedly  in  the  high 
land  than  in  the  plains.  In  the  latter  the  vegetation  is  much  more  sectional,  that  is,  it  re-_^ 
r  sembles  much  more  closely  the  district  to  which  it  belongs.  As  an  illustration,  an  Upper  \ 
[  Californian,  suddenly  transported  to  San  Quentin,  would  have  no  special  reason  to  suppose  J 
V  himself  out  of  his  State ;  while  if  he  were  placed  on  the  mountains  directly  east,  or  even  north-' 
\£ast,  he  woulil  find  the  same  plants  that  make  the  characteristic  landscape  about  San  Borja 
or  even  farther  south.  Two  or  three  miles  from  San  Quentin  we  saw  the  last  cardon,  or 
columnar  cactus;  and  in  the  line  of  demarcation  which  I  had  laid  down,  we  encountered  the 
first  buckeyes  and  elders.  Chapparal  oaks  make  their  appearance  between  this  point  and  San 
Telmo,  and  the  hills  support,  for  the  first  tiiyc,  a  scattering  growth  of  chamiso.  The  ccano- 
thus,  with  its  little  bunches  of  i)urplish  flowers,  appears  about  the  same  time. 

On  the  10th  we  rode  along  the  coast,  half  a  dozen  leagues  over  good  grazing-land  to  San 
Ramon,  where  we  camped  aside  of  a  marshy  arroyo,  under  shelter  of  a  clump  of  willows.  A 
quarter  of  a  mile  from  us  was  a  house,  the  headquarters  of  a  ranchero.  The  people  here  are 
engaged  in  raising  horses,  of  which  wc  saw  several  bands,  Tlie  animals  are  of  good  size,  fine- 
looking  beasts,  and  their  condition  spoke  well  for  the  character  of  the  pasture.  The  worst 
annoyance  they  have  here  is  that  the  country  is  overrun  with  rattlesnakes.  On  this  ranch 
three  or  four  horses  had  been  bitten  during  the  week  previous  to  our  arrival.     Leaving  San 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  HI 

Ramon  ive  followeil  the  const  four  leagms  farther,  over  a  similar  country  to  that  behind  us, 
nnd  then  our  roail  took  u;5  four  lea<:;ucs  farther  across  a  range  of  pretty  high  liills  to  San  Tel- 
nm,  a  little  settlement,  near  a  deserted  and  ruined  mission,  in  a  deep  valley.  Every  thing 
bore  the  impress  of  an  approaeli  to  Upper  California.  Large  herds  of  sleek,  nice-looking 
cows  were  grazing  ou  the  flats  and  lying  under  the  shade  of  the  trees,  while  several  flocks  of 
sheep  could  be  seen  dotting  the  hill-sides,  or  huddled  together  in  some  shady  spot,  under  the 
care  of  a  drowsy  shepherd,  whose  more  vigilant  dog  would  rush  at  us  with  furious  Ijarkiug, 
trying  to  drive  us  away  from  his  charge. 

The  people  of  San  Telmo  are  very  temperate  in  their  habits.  We  sent  Domingo  dowil  to 
the  village,  a  mile  below  us,  with  instructions,  while  buying  some  fresh  ineat,  to  bring  along 
"  something  strong."  He  searched  carefully  and  reported  that,  in  the  whole  place,  there  was 
neither  wine,  aguardiente,  mescal,  "nor  any  drop  to  drink,"  except  water.  From  San  Telmo 
we  had  a  dreary,  disagreeable  ride  of  si.K  leagues  in  the  rain  to  El  Salado  ;  why  so  called  I  do 
not  know,  unless  by  the  rule  of  contraries.  We  certainly  saw  no  salt.  Our  route  lay  nearly 
parallel  with  the  coast,  and  three  to  five  miles  distant. 

.^L.rauchrliouse  at_tli£ Salado,  deserted  by  the  owners,  is  occupied  by  a  family  or  two  of 
Tmiians,  a  miserable,  half-naked  set  of  wretches,  hardly  above  the  brutes  in  intelligence.  A 
mile  or  two  below  is  the  Delphina  copper-mine,  owned  by  some  gentlemen  in  Upper  California, 
among  whom,  I  am  told,  are  General  Rosecrans  and  Captain  Winder,  U.  S.  A.  A  very  sub- 
stantial adobe  house,  with  a  couple  of  smaller  ones  here,  belong  to  the  company,  and  all  the 
property  was  in  charge  of  a  man  who  is  known  variously  as  "Cliino"  or  Marto  de  la  Cruz. 
Chino  represents  himself  to  be  the  generalissimo  or  head  chief  of  all  the  Yumas,  Cocopas,  and 
several  adjoining  tribes.  lie  says  he  is  a  full-blooded  Indian,  although  nearly  everybody  else 
says  he  is  a  Mexican.  He  is  certainly  very  light-colored  for  an  Indian,  and  speaks  Spanish  too 
well.  He  also  talks,  besides  English  and  some  French,  several  Indian  dialects.  He  has  a  large 
number  of  testimonials  from  various  army  officers,  Indian  agents,  etc.,  including  a  pretentious- 
looking  document  from  Navarete,  the  predecessor  of  the  present  governor  in  Lower  Cali- 
fornia. These  all  speak  of  him  as  a  good  friend  of  the  whites,  and  a  man  to  be  depended  upon. 
The  morning  after  our  arrival  was  spent  at  the  mine.  We  did  not  see  as  much  of  it  as  we 
could  have  desired.  There  is  a  shaft,  said  to  be  about  150  ieet  deep,  into  which  we  did  not 
go,  not  being  sure  that  it  would  be  safe,  it  having  been  deserted  for  some  time.  We  saw, 
however,  some  quite  extensive  works  on  the  face  of  the  hill  near  the  shaft,  the  principal  of 
which  was  a  deep  cut  from  which  a  large  quantity  of  surface  ores  had  been  taken.  This  cut, 
extending  along  the  vein,  is  about  50  feet  deep  vertically  and  horizontally,  and  exposes  a 
well-defined  vein  five  or  six  feet  wide.  The  ores,  oxides,  and  carbonates,  are  very  rich,  and 
have  been  obtained  in  large  quantities.  Besides  what  has  been  carried  away,  which,  I  am 
informed,  made  several  extensive  shipments,  there  were  at  the  mine  300  to  400  sacks  of  picked 
ore  of  excellent  quality  awaiting  transportation. 

In  the  afternoon  we  rode  across  a  rolling  granite  country,  three  leagues,  to  the  old  mission 
of  San  Vicente,  where,  the  next  day  being  Sunday,  we  remained  until  Monday  morning.  Our 
camp  was  one  of  the  most  beautiful  I  ever  beheld.  We  were  ou  a  perfectly  level  tract  of  a 
few  acres,  nearly  shut  in  by  a  grand  old  hedge  of  prickly  pear;  the  whole  area  was  covered 
with  a  mat  of  the  greenest  grass.  Back  of  us  was  a  table  10  or  15  feet  high,  on  which  stood 
the  not  unpicturesque  ruins  of  the  mission  buildings ;  at  our  side  was  a  fine  stream  of  water, 
and  overhead  the  dense  foliage  of  a  clump  of  venerable  olive-trees,  in  the  midst  of  which  we 
had  made  our  camp.  The  mules  luxuriated  in  the  rich,  juicy  herbage,  and  we  enjoyed  the 
beauties  of  the  place  to  the  fullest,  leaving  it  with  regret  when  Monday  morning  reminded  us 
that  we  could  idle  no  longer. 

San_Vi£Q'ite  is  now  private  property,  though  it  is  unoccupied.  It  contains  several  leagues 
of  good,  very  lerTlTeTjottom-land,  and  a  considerable  tract  of  grazing-land  on  the  low  rolling 
hills.  A  large  portion  of  the  bottom  seems  to  have  been  cultivated  during  the  time  of  the 
missions,  judging  from  the  remains  of  irrigating  ditches  winding  aroun'd  the  hill-sides.  Let 
American  enterprise  wake  these  people  out  of  their  lethargy,  and  San  Vicente  will  become  one 
of  the  most  flourishing  ranches  of  Lower  California. 

From  San  Vicente  we  rode  inland  seven  leagues  to  Sto.  Tomas,  through  a  rolling,  rocky 
country,  with  plenty  of  water.  This  latter  place  is  in  tlnTbottom'  of  a  wide  arroyo,  21  miles 
from  the  coast.  It  is  quite  a  town,  of  some,  perhaps,  50  or  60  inhabitants,  containing 
half  a  dozen  houses,  and  the  ruins  of  the  small  mission  establishment.  A  few  acres  of 
ground  are  under  cultivation,  irrigated  by  the  water  of  three  or  four  large  springs.  This 
is  the  headquarters  of  the  sub-government  of  the  frontiers.  Seiior  Zerega,  the  dcputy- 
goveraor,  to  whom  we  had  letters,  was  absent,  but  we  were  very  well  received  by  the 
family  of  a  brother-in-law  of  Jesus'.  A  group  of  old  olive-trees  here,  surpassing  in  size  even 
those  of  San  Vicente,  are  almost  the  only  traces  of  early  cultivation  of  the  vicinity.  The 
valley  is  said  to  be  excellent  ranch-land  for  some  distance  farther  up,  and  all  the  way  to 
the  coast.  Some  cattle  and  sheep  are  raised  here,  and  considerable  quantities  of  wine  are  -- 
produced. 

Resisting  with  some  difficulty  the  very  cordial  invitation  to  remain,  which  our  new  friends 
'almost  insisted  on  our  accepting,  we  rode  the  next  day  12  leagues  to  Saucal.  The  country 
did  not  difier  materially  from  what  we  passed  through  the  day  before :  a  series  of  rolling 


112  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

hills,  succeeding  each  othei'  almost  interminably,  with  pretty  and  fertile  valleys  interspersed, 
and  groves  here  and  there  of  the  California  live-oak,  while  a  little  sycamore  dotted  the 
lines  of  the  water-courses.  Both  of  these  trees  occur  here  for  the  first  time,  this  being  their 
southern  limit.  At  the  Saucal,  which  is  directly  on  the  coast,  there  is  an  embarcadero  or 
landing  for  small  vessels.  'We  found  here,  too,  another  brother-in-law  of  Jesus',  who  keeps 
a  small  store.  He  took  us  in  and  treated  us  very  hospitably.  This  family  is  very  different 
from  the  majority  of  their  countrymen.  They  are  lighter  in  color,  indicating  a  purer  blood, 
and  are  very  intelligent  and — but  it  would  be  invidious  to  make  a  distinction  iu  the  Spanish 
race  in  the  matter  of  politeness. 

On  the  17th,  accompanied  by  our  host,  we  rode  eight  leagues,  past  the  San  Antonio  "  cop- 
per-mines "  and  the  rancho  of  Guadalupe,  to  a  little  caiion  called  Los  Burros.  "VTe" spent  a 
little  while  looking  at  one  or  two  of  the  copper  claims,  and  saw  nothing  more  than  the 
deceptive  copper  stains  iu  granite,  which  have  caused  so  much  useless  expenditure  of  money 
in  Upper  California.  Satisfied  of  the  utter  worthlessness  of  all  we  saw,  and  which,  we  were  told, 
^  were  the  "  best  mines,"  we  pushed  on.  Guadalupe  ranch  is  by  far  the  best  rancho  in  Lower 
California.  It  comprises  seven  leagues  of  bottom-land,  with  a  stream  of  water  running  througli 
it.  The  land  is  of  great  fertility,  and  several  acres  of^  wheat  and  barley,  already  headed  out, 
showed  that  it  was  excellent  grain-land.  There  is  here  also  a  large  orchard  of  varfous  fruits, 
including  peach,  plum,  apricot,  pomegranate,  fig,  etc.,  and  a  fine  vineyard.  The  grass  in  the 
uncultivated  parts  of  the  valley  was  unsurpassed  by  any  thing  we  saw  on  the  whole  journey, 
below  or  above.  Two  leagues  beyond  the  Guadalupe,  we  camped  under  a  large  spreading  live- 
y  oak  by  the  side  of  a  beautiful  stream  of  water  gurgling  over  its  pebbly  bed,  and  enjoyed  the 
\  luxury  of  a  rousing  camp-fire. 

From  here  we  travelled,  still  in  the  same  roUing  hills,  across  beautiful  little  valleys,  cross- 
ing stream  after  stream  to  the  Valley  of  the  Palms.  If  palms  ever  existed  here,  they  must  have 
died  or  been  killed,  since  we  did  not  see  one.  I  have  been  told,  however,  that  the  fan-palm 
does  really  exist  in  some  little  valleys  back  of  San  Diego.  Whether  they  are  natural  strag- 
glers from  be''ow,  or  whether  they  had  been  planted  there,  I  could  not  ascertain.  The  valley 
in  which  we  camped  is  broad,  open,  and  sandy.  It  is  covered  with  a  good  growth  of  grass  and 
numerous  trees,  but  does  not  look  as  if  it  would  produce  very  astonishing  results  under  culti- 
vation. 

From  the  '•  Valley  of  the  Palms  "  we  went  to  the  Tia  Juana,  crossed  the  boundary,  and 
camped  at  the  i-ancho  de  la  Punta,  once  more  under  the  protection  of  Uncle  Sam.  The  monu- 
ment that  marks  the  dividing  line  is  in  such  a  dilapidated  state  that  something  will  have  to 
be  done  shortly.  Either  a  new  one  must  be  placed  there,  or  better,  the  necessity  for  one  ob- 
viated by  tlie  selection  of  some  more  natural  line  of  demarcation,  say,  for  instance,  the  Gulf 
of  California.     This  must  be  sooner  or  later. 

I  have  given  an  honest,  impartial  account  of  the  impressions  made  on  me  by  whatever  I 
^aw.  I  have  not  given  a  very  glowing  account  of  the  country ;  still.  Lower  California, 
/with  its  fisheries,  its  mines,  its  cultivated  lands,  and  its  extensive  graziug-tracts,  not  to  mention 
j  its  geographical  position,  must  be  of  more  value  to  the  LTnited  States  than  the  recently 
acquired  territory  of  the  Northwest.  Not  only  that,  its  resources,  with  the  equable  and  stable 
government  that  it  would  thus  acquire,  and  with  the  aid  of  American  energy,  skill,  and  capi- 
tal, will  increase  themselves  fivefold  in  hardly  more  than  as  many  years. 

GEOLOGY. 

The  peninsula  of  Lower  California  can  be  separated  geologically  into  three  pretty  well- 
marked  districts.  The  first  includes  the  high  mountain  portions,  between  La  Paz  and  Cape 
San  Lucas ;  the  second  extends  from  this  to  beyond  San  Ignacio,  say  to  Santa  Gertrudes  ;  the 
third  includes  all  that  part  lying  north  of  Santa  Gertrudes.  The  date  of  upheaval  of  the 
mountain-ranges,  as  proved  by  the  sedimentary  rocks  which  are  disturbed,  allies  them  to  the 
Coast  Range  of  Upper  California,  with  which,  in  fact,  they  are  connected  by  a  continuous  chain. 
It  is  possible  to  trace  an  uninterrupted  granite  ridge  from  the  San  Gabriel  Mountains  north  of 
Los  Angeles,  through  Los  Angeles,  San  Bernardino,  and  San  Diego  Counties,  into  Lon'cr  Cali- 
fornia and  along  the  peninsula  to  within  a  few  miles  of  the  old  mission  of  Sta.  Gertrudes.  From 
the  exposure  by  denudation  of  masses  of  granite  under  the  sedimentary  rocks,  as  at  Sta.  Ger- 
trudes and  Sauce,  near  Lorcto,  it  is  probable  that  an  elevation  of  say,  another  thousand  feet, 
would  carry  the  continuous  line  of  granite  entirely  through  to  Cape  San  Lucas.  This  will  be 
better  understood  by  a  more  detailed  account  of  tlie  various  phenomena  observed  during  our 
hasty  reconnoissance.  The  first  region  mentioned  above  consists  of  a  high,  nearly  north  and 
south  range  of  mountains,  commencing  at  Cape*San  Lucas  and  extending  with  its  branches 
to  the  Cacachilas  range,  southeast  of  La  Paz. 

Other  spurs  and  accessary  chains  cover  nearly  the  whole  extremity  of  the  peninsula  with 
a  rugged  mountain  mass,  very  variable  in  height,  and  interspersed  with  almost  innumerable 
valleys,  some  of  which  can  hardly  be  equalled  in  beauty  and  fertility  in  any  other  part  of 
the  world.  Even  high  up  in  the  mountains  are  said  to  be  fine  valleys,  well  watered,  with  a 
constant  supply  of  the  best  grass,  capable  of  raising  any  thing,  and,  what  is  most  uuportaut 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER   CALIFORNIA.  113 

of  all  in  a  country  where  wood  is  scarce,  surrounded  by  the  finest  kind  of  oak  and  pine 
timber. 

The  main  chain  of  this  region  is  the  San  Lazaro,  a  mass  lying  west  of  the  valley  of  San 
Jose,  and  culminating  in  the  sharp  peak  of  San  Lazaro,  about  5,000  feet  high.  This  range 
is  extremely  rugged  and  picturesque,  and  appears  to  be  heavily  timbered,  at  least  in  parts, 
as  seen  from  the  valley  of  Santa  Anita.  It  sends  out  many  lateral  spurs,  and  its  deep  canons 
all  abound  in  perennial  supplies  of  excellent  water. 

The  coast  side,  as  seen  from  a  passing  vessel,  is  even  more  barren  and  forbidding  than 
its  inland  aspect.  At  its  southern  extremity  it  opens  into  a  Y  sliape,  near  Vixpc  San  Lucas, 
and  north  it  sends  out  several  branches,  one  of  which,  the  Sierra  dc  la  Victoria,  some  30 
miles  south  of  Triunfo,  rivals  in  height  the  main  chain."  Triunfo  itself  is  in  a  low  part  of  the 
same  range,  and  within  a  mile  or  two  of  the  dividing  ridge  which  separates  the  watershed  of 
the  Pacific  from  that  of  the  gulf.  Here,  however,  the  elevation  is,  perhaps,  not  more  than 
1,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  the  descent  is  almost  unnoticeable,  excejjt  to  the  experienced 
eye.  The  same  ridge  rises  again  on  the  peninsula  included  between  La  Paz  Bay  and  the  gulf, 
making  the  rugged  granite  chain  of  the  Cacaehilas  perhaps  3,000  feet  high.  In  the  tract 
included  between  the  ranges  above  mentioned,  is  the  east  coast ;  that  is  to  say,  between 
a  nearly  direct  line  from  San  Jose  to  La  Paz  on  the  west  and  the  gulf  on  the  east,  there  are 
numerous  small  ranges  and  spurs,  none  of  great  elevation,  and  which  we  had  no  opportunity 
of  examining  in  detail. 

The  geology  of  this  lower  portion  of  the  peninsula  is  quite  simple.  The  high  ridges  are 
all  essentially  granitic  ;  the  rocks  varying  in  structure  from  a  true  granite  to  a  true  syenite 
with  every  intermediate  gradation.  Approaching  San  Antonio  from  the  southeast,  the  granite 
is  replaced  for  the  first  time  by  a  mica  slate,  which  makes  a  belt  running  northeast  and 
southwest  across  the  country.  I  found  it  extending  uninterruptedly  to  and  six  miles  beyond 
Triunfo,  on  the  La  Paz  road.  To  tiie  west  from  Triunfo,  toward  Todos  Santos,  it  continues 
to  the  extreme  edge  of  the  mountains,  bordering  the  plains,  and  is  said  to  continue  to  the 
Cacaehilas.  It  is  in  this  rock  that  the  only  really  valuable  mineral  deposits  of  the  territory 
have  been  found.  Gold  is  reported  from  many  places  in  the  granite  of  the  San  Lazaro ;  and 
Seiior  Carillo,  of  Sta.  Anita,  assured  me  that,  when  a  young  man,  he  had  seen  "  chispas,"  or 
nuggets  of  gold,  one  as  large  as  the  palm  of  his  hand,  said  to  have  been  brought  from  the 
low  ranges  east  of  Sta.  Anita.  Be  that  as  it  may,  subsequent  search  has  always  failed  to  find 
the  spot  from  which  they  came.  Copper  and  silver  are  also  reported,  and  traces  of  the 
former  at  least  doubtless  exist.  At  the  Calabazlhs,  18  miles  from  Triunfo,  on  the  road  to  La 
Paz,  in  a  low  ridge  to  the  left  of  the  road,  copper-mines  or  traces  of  copper  exist.  No  work 
is  being  done,  the  exploration  having  ceased  long  before  our  visit.  In  the  mica  slate  only 
have  deposits  of  metal  been  found  sufficiently  valuable  to  pay  for  regular  mining.  The  prin- 
cipal districts  are  in  the  vicinity  of  San  Antonio  and  Triunfo,  within  three  or  four  miles  of 
each  other,  and  containing  the  same  system  of  veins,  and  the  district  of  Cacaehilas,  on  the 
southeast  side  of  the  range  of  mountains  of  the  same  name,  and  between  20  and  30  miles 
from  La  Paz.     This  latter  district  was  not  visited  by  us,  for  a  variety  of  reasons. 

Our  purpose  in  visiting  the  country  was  to  make  an  exploration  of  the  lands  included 
within  the  grant  to  the  Colonization  Company,  and  these  lands  did  not  commence  until  some 
distance  farther  north.  We  wore  in  a  hurry  to  get  at  our  legitimate  work,  and  our  time 
was  necessarily  limited  ;  besides,  having  ascertained  the  main  features  of  the  mineral  deposits, 
we  had  no  inclination  to  go  into  the  details  of  every  mine. 

We  spent  several  days  in  and  around  Triuntb  and  San  Antonio,  and  visited  all  the 
principal  mines  of  that  region.  They  are  almost  all  on  two  parallel  veins,  running  nearly 
north  and  south,  and  quite  near  each  other.  The  largest  of  these  veins  is-  remarkable  for  the 
great  uniformity  it  sustains  throughout,  both  in  the  character  of  its  ore  and  in  the  size  and 
continuity  of  its  ore  deposit.  The  vein,  v.ith  a  thickness  of  from  8  to  15  feet,  carries  a  body 
of  metal  of  from  three  to  five  feet,  wherever  any  deep  excavations  have  been  made  on  it 
within  a  length  of  four  or  five  miles.  Several  mines  are  in  successful  operation,  and  others 
have  been  sufficiently  opened  to  reinlcr  their  future  morally  certain  of  success,  so  far  as  one 
dare  judge  one  mine  by  analogy  with  another.  The  injudicious  expenditure  of  large  sums  by 
incompetent  men  in  doing  useless  work,  instead  of  ap])lying  them  in  such  a  manner  as  to  prove 
the  vein,  has  retarded  almost  beyond  calcidation  the  di'vclopment  of  this  region. 

It  will  require  years  to  restore  the  confidence  thus  lost,  and  establish  on  its  proper  basis 
the  prosperity  of  the  district.  The  mistake  always  made  has  been  the  employment  of  men, 
unfitted  by  study  and  experience,  as  superintendents  of  the  mines,  simply  because  their 
services  could  be  obtained  at  a  price  whicli,  when  too  late,  proved  to  be  in  a  nearly  exact 
ratio  with  their  ability. 

Besides  the  two  princii)al  veins,  there  are  several  smaller  ones  on  whicli  are  many  mining 
"claims,"  but,  inasmuch  as  work  lias  been  niany  times  commenced  and  abandoned  on  them, 
and  no  result  even  yet  attained,  it  is  probably  safer  to  pass  them  by  with  the  mere  mention. 

Besides  the  crystalline  rocks  already  described,  there  are  also  some  deposits  of  later  age, 
in  this  district,  though  very  limited  in  extent.  They  belong  to  two  distinct  geological  eras. 
The  newer  is  a  modern  gravel  deposit  which  fills  nearly  all  the  valleys,  is  liorizontally  strati- 
fied everywhere,  and  consists  of  the  debris  of  granit.^  with  some  foreiga  admixture,  such  as 


114:  SKETCH  OP  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

boulders  of  volcanic  origin.  This  gravel  forms  mesas  in  some  places  as  much  as  60  feet 
above  the  valleys,  perfectly  level,  nearly  always  covered  with  loose  stones,  and  supporting  an 
entirely  different  character  of  vegetation  from  that  found  in  the  fertile  bottoms.  Sometimes, 
as  at  the  Cuevas,  it  is  a  pretty  compact,  even-grained  sandstone,  and  at  times  is  a  little  dis- 
turbed, having  a  dip  of  a  few  degrees  in  one  direction  or  another.  It  fills  the  valley  of  San 
Jose,  lining  the  sides  either  as  a  regular  table,  or  occasionally  cut  into  rolling  hills.  From 
the  head  of  the  valley,  between  Sta.  Ana  and  Santiago,  it  forms  the  only  division  between  the 
watersheds  of  the  two  streams.  At  Santiago  it  is  a  mile  or  two  wide,  and  forms  a  beautiful 
terrace,  with  a  sharply-defined  margin  and  steep  face. 

The  other  rock,  probably  the  same  as  that  so  extensively  developed  farther  north  in  the 
mesa,  is  a  hard  sandstone,  resembling  closely  that  of  the  tertiary  of  Upper  California.  The 
only  place  where  I  saw  it  well  developed  in  this  region  was  at  the  Rancho  de  los  Martires 
where,  east  of  the  house,  is  a  little  hill  composed  of  strata  dipping  westward  at  an  angle  of 
about  15°.  The  rock,  of  which  I  saw  much  in  use  about  the  house,  is  said  to  be  all  alike. 
What  I  saw  was  a  fissile  sandstone,  splitting  into  sheets  answering  admirably  for  flagging. 
The  horizontal  gravel  abutted  against  the  sloping  faces  of  this  rock.  I  saw  no  fossils,  nor 
any  means  by  which  I  could  ever  approximately  establish  the  age  of  the  formation.  Large 
fossil  oysters  are  said  to  occur  three  miles  east  of  Santiago,  but  I  was  reluctantly  obliged  to 
leave  without  visiting  the  locality.  The  only  clew  I  possess  is  indeed  a  slight  one.  About 
seven  years  ago,  Mr.  John  Xantus  sent  from  Cape  San  Lucas  to  the  Academy  of  Natural 
Sciences  of  Philadelphia  a  few  fossil  oysters.  These  were  considered  at  the  time  by  Mr. 
Conrad  and  myself  as  probably  belonging  to  Mr.  C.'s.  species,  0.  Georgiana,  but  a  more  inti- 
mate acquaintance  with  0.  Titan,  Con.,  in  California,  inclines  me  to  the  belief  that  they  were 
the  long  slender  variety  of  that  species.  Should  0.  Titan  be  found  in  this  rock  it  would  be 
pretty  good  proof  of  the  miocene  age  of  the  formation,  since  that  species  is  very  characteris- 
tic, not  only  of  the  formation,  but  of  a  single  member  of  it.  Throughout  the  whole  extent 
of  the  territory  I  never  encountered  a  single  fossil  in  the  mesa  sandstones ;  and,  while  I  con- 
sider that  analogy,  and  all  the  little  items  of  presumptive  evidence  that  can  be  obtained  are  in 
favor  of  their  miocene  age,  I  should  notwithstandhig  be  very  reluctant  to  decide,  on  such 
grounds,  to  place  them  in  one  formation  rather  than  another. 

On  the  road  from  Triunfo  to  La  Paz,  after  passing  Playitas,  and  emerging  into  the  valley 
of  La  Paz,  the  granite  is  succeeded  by  hills  of  from  500  to  700  feet  high,  of  stratified  volcanic 
ash  covered  by  a  deposit  of  very  hard  porphyritic  trachytes.  These  volcanic  rocks  are  not 
extensively  developed  on  this  side  of  ttie  bay,  but  form  a  narrow  strip  along  the  base  of  the 
higher  mountains,  forming  the  Cacachilas  range.  The  stratified  ash  has  a  low  dip,  usually 
westward,  though  in  some  places,  especially  east  of  La  Paz,  it  is  very  much  disturbed,  dipping 
in  all  directions.  The  new  church  now  in  process  of  construction,  in  La  Paz,  is  of  this  solidi- 
fied ash,  which  is  sufficiently  hard  and  of  a  good  color  for  building  purposes. 

We  encountered  no  other  volcanic  rocks  in  place  in  this  region,  but  I  observed,  especially 
near  Santiago,  in  the  gravels,  numerous  pebbles  and  occasionally  large  boulders  of  a  light-gray 
porphyry  with  crystals  of  white  feldspar.  Inquiry  among  the  natives  failed  to  elicit  any  in- 
formation regarding  similar  rocks  in  place,  and  the  boulders  have  a  rolled  look,  as  if  they 
might  have  travelled  a  long  distance.  From  the  borders  of  the  mica  slate,  on  the  road  tow- 
ard Todos  Santos  and  northward,  there  is  an  entire  change  in  the  geology  and  an  accompany- 
ing one  in  the  appearance  of  the  country.  The  rugged  mountains  and  beautiful  tropical 
valleys  disappear,  and  in  their  place  we  had  broad  arid-looking  plains,  or  at  best  flat-topped 
table-mountains,  extending  as' far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  as  tiresome  in  their  monotony  as  the 
plains  themselves.  The  general  structure  of  this,  the  middle  portion  of  the  peninsula,  is  a 
scries  of  non-fossiliferous  sandstones  lying  on  a  granite  base,  the  former  often  metamor- 
phosed, especially  on  the  eastern  side.  On  the  western  margin  these  rocks  are  overlaid,  usually 
more  or  less  conformably,  though  with  occasional  instances  of  non-conformability,  by  a  com- 
paratively thin  series  of  sandstones  and  calcareous  beds,  often  highly  fossiliferous.  The 
fossils,  ail  or  nearly  all  of  living  species,  indicate  for  this  group  a  very  recent  age,  most 
probably  post-pliocene. 

On  the  eastern  margin,  near  the  coast,  these  rocks  are  found  in  a  few  isolated  patches, 
lying  very  unconformably  on  the  upturned  edges  or  abutting  against  the  inclined  surfaces  of 
the  older  sandstones,  and  in  most  cases  filled  with  fossils  in  an  excellent  state  of  preser- 
vation. Overlying  both  these  sedimentary  formations,  and  often  protruding  through  them  in 
the  form  of  dikes,  are  volcanic  rocks,  ])orphyrics,  trachytes,  and  pumice.  The  elevation  of 
the  range  commenced  long  before  the  deposition  of  the  post-pliocene  beds,  and  is  demonstrated 
by  the  fact  that  they  hardly  ever  attain  an  elevation  of  more  than  four  or  five  hundred  feet 
above  the  sea  ;  and  on  the  west  slope,  where  the  disturbance  has  been  least,  they  thin  out 
almost  imperceptibly  along  the  eastern  margin.  An  exception  to  this  exists,  however,  in  the 
high  mountains  of  Santa  Maria,  which  are  capped  by  thin  beds  of  fine-grained,  soft  sandstones, 
and  a  little  limestone,  which,  although  without  fossils,  arc,  no  doubt,  members  of  the  same 
formation. 

A  very  interesting  feature  of  the  older  beds,  or  mesa  sandstone,  as  I  shall  call  it  for  con- 
venience, is  the  presence  of  immense  numbers  of  fragments  of  volcanic  rocks.  These  are 
.markedly  different  in  character  from  the  more  modern  outflows  which  have  covered  alike 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  115 

both  formations,  ,ind  by  tlioir  hardness  liavo  assisted  in  preserving;  tlie  tabnlnr  form  of  nearly 
all  tlie  liills.  In  some  of  the  beds  tliese  ])el)hles  and  lioiiiders  are  so  niiineroiis  as  to  ]>roduce 
a  eonj^lonierate,  in  wiiicli  tlie  eenientini;  sandstone  is  a  eoniparatively  unimportant  part.  From 
the  manner  of  their  occurrence  they  show  that  their  orifjin  was  somewhere  east  even  of  the 
present  coast  line:  thus,  about  Ma<];dalena  Bay  and  toward  Comondu  and  I'urisima,  they 
are  small  in  size,  few  in  number,  aiKl  very  much  rolled,  as  if  they  had  been  brought  a  long 
distance  ;  but,  on  approaching  that  part  of  the  coast  from  Chucnca  to  Loreto,  their  numbers 
and  size  increase  steadily,  and  in  the  same  ratio  is  the  decrease  in  the  amount  of  attrition  to 
■which  they  have  been  subjected.  In  no  place  have  the  rocks  from  which  these  boulders  were 
derived,  been  encountered,  and  they  certainly  do  not  underlie  the  mesa  sandstones  at  any 
point  where  the  base  of  that  formation  has  been  seen.  At  Sauce,  and  again  at  Sta.  Gertrudes, 
I  have  seen  this  rock  lying  directly  in  contact  with  the  granite,  but  without  any  trace  of  an 
intermediate  formation.  The  only  solution  of  the  difficulty,  therefore,  that  has  occurred  to 
me  is  that,  at  the  time  of  the  deposition  of  the  mesa  sandstones,  there  was  a  body  of  land 
lying  where  is  now  the  Gulf  of  California,  and  near  the  present  position  of  Carmen  Island, 
and  that  tlic  volcanic  boulders  which  make  so  imi)ortant  a  part  of  these  sandstones  were  de- 
rived from  that  land.  The  line  of  elevation  of  this  portion  of  the  peninsula  is  very  close  to 
the  cast  coast.  From  La  Paz  to  beyond  Moleje,  the  summit  would  probably  not  average  more 
than  15  miles  in  a  direct  line  from  the  beach,  and  it  is  often  within  five  miles.  The  whole 
country  is  elevated,  with  a  slope  so  gentle  as  to  be  almost  imperceptible,  from  the  shores  of 
the  Pacific  to  this  summit,  and  from  there  descends  to  the  gulf  so  precipitously  as  to  render 
it  very  difficult,  and  not  unfrequently  impossible,  of  ascent.  Nor  is  there  any  anticlinal  axis  ; 
the  mountains  look  as  if  they  had  been  broken  off  rather  than  pushed  up,  and  it  is  not  im- 
possible that  more  detailed  investigation  than  I  was  able  to  make  will  demonstrate  the  exist- 
ence of  an  enormous  fault  along  this  line  of  coast. 

After  leaving  the  mass  of  mica  slate  between  Triunfo  and  Todos  Santos,  the  road  runs 
over  gravel  mesas  or  tables  which  extend  northward,  frequently  interrupted  by  water-courses 
and  little  valleys,  for  about  sixty  miles,  along  the  coast  from  Todos  Santos.  These  tables 
show  in  places  a  distinct  terrace  structure.  At  the  point  of  their  greatest  development  they 
are  about  thirty  feet  high  each,  one  above  the  other.  From  this  they  fall  to  nearly  nothing. 
Looking  eastward,  can  be  seen  far  inland  low,  broad,  flat-topped  hills,  which  gradually  ap- 
proach the  coast,  and  eventually,  about  eighteen  miles  north  of  the  rancho  of  the  Innocentes, 
and  perhaps  fifty  miles  south  of  the  bay  of  Magdalena,  they  reach  the  beach.  From  here  to 
the  bay  of  Ballones  they  continue,  sometimes  close  to  the  coast,  at  others  retreating  more  or 
less  inland,  and  always  quite  low  near  the  Pacific,  but  rising  gradually  to  the  eastern  summit, 
where  they  culminate  in  the  high  ridge  of  the  Sierra  Gigantea,  near  Loreto,  there  they  reach 
the  height  of  over  three  thousand  feet.  These  hills  were  formerly  connected  as  one  entire 
plain,  but  are  now  divided  into  innumerable  flat  tables,  often  separated  by  caiions  of  a  thou- 
sand feet  deep.  At  the  Salado,  near  Magdalena  Bay,  and  about  six  miles  inland,  the  canon 
shows  a  good  section  of  about  sixty  feet  high.  The  rocks  here  are  fine-grained,  soft  sand- 
stone below,  overlaid  by  soft  calcareous  beds  with  many  casts  of  fossils — all,  so  far  as  I  could 
determine  them,  belonging  to  living  species.  The  same  beds  continue  as  far  south  as  we  saw 
this  group  of  rocks,  but  on  going  eastward  the  limestones  disappear  within  a  few  miles,  hav- 
ing probably  been  removed  l)y  denudation.  The  underlying  soft  sandstones,  interstratified 
with  some  white  shale,  continue  inland  to  a  point  a  little  beyond  the  old  mission  of  San  Luis 
Gonzaga,  where  they  thin  out,  and  are  underlaid  by  a  coarse-grained,  more  compact  sandstone, 
filled  with  volcanic  boulders,  of  which  mention  is  made  above. 

Before  leaving  this  part  of  the  coast  a  word  about  the  large  island  of  Margarita  would  be 
in  place.  We  did  not  visit  it,  and  could  obtain  no  reliable  information  about  it;  but,  from  its 
contour,  and  from  its  being  reputed  to  contain  veins  of  silver  and  copper,  it  is  in  all  probabil- 
ity a  mass  of  either  granite  or  mica  slate. 

About  San  Luis  are  many  dikes  of  a  light-gray  porphyry,  filled  with  small  white  crystals 
of  feldspar.  These  dikes,  striking  with  great  uniformity  within  a  degree  or  two  of  the 
magnetic  north,  disturb  both  the  sedimentary  formations  for  nearly  twenty  miles.  The 
post-pliocene  beds,  which  also  contain  a  few  boulders  of  volcanic  origin,  probably  derived 
from  the  underlying  strata,  are  sometimes  covered  with  a  "podregal"*  of  rounded  pebbles, 
which  render  travelling  extremely  unpleasant.  Near  San  Luis,  the  surfiicc  of  the  earth  is 
covered  in  many  places  with  flakes  and  scales  of  selenite,  sometimes  of  several  jiounds  in 
weight,  and  doubtless  derived  from  the  destruction  of  the  shells  which  once  existed  in  these 
rocks,  and  the  chemical  recombination  of  their  constituent  lime.  From  San  Luis  to  the 
eastern  summit,  above  the  Tinaja,  the  mesas  rise  with  a  gentle  curve,  the  dip  being  to  the 
southwest.  No  fossils  were  found,  the  post-pliocene  had  disappeared,  but  in  one  or  two 
places  pieces  of  table  were  seen  capped  by  thin  sheets  of  basaltiform  rocks. 

No  traces  of  metamorphism  were  encountered  here,  though  the  hills  but  a  few  miles  farther 

*  This  word,  for  which  I  know  no  exact  Enctlish  equivalent,  is  used  to  do«ijrnate  a  tract  covered  with 
a  great  number  of  loose  stones.  Many  spots  on  the  Paciflc  slope  are  so  covered  to  a  depth  of  several 
feet,  and  without  a  particle  of  soil  visible,  over  areas  varying  from  a  few  acres  to  many  miles  in  extent. 
I  have  adopted  the  word  partly  because  of  its  descriptive  brevity,  aud  partly  because  it  is  in  common 
use  wherever  this  state  of  taings  exists. 


116  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

north  are  most  unmistakably  metamorphic.  Nor  did  we  encounter  any  volcanic  rocks  in  place 
on  our  trail.  The  nearest  we  saw  were  some  small  patches  at  the  distance  of  several  miles 
northwest  of  the  rancho  of  Jesus  Maria.  My  lamented  friend  Remond,  who  visited  the 
region  just  north  of  La  Paz  two  or  three  years  ago,  says  that  there  are  there  extensive  tracts 
covered  by  volcanic  beds. 

Descending  the  eastern  face  of  the  range  at  the  Tinaja,  the  rocks,  entirely  unaltered,  retain 
so  nearly  a  horizontal  position  that  the  dip  cannot  be  detected  in  a  short  section,  and,  except 
one  or  two  slight  twists  of  very  limited  extent,  the  same  remark  will  hold  good  for  the  whole 
face  of  the  range  to  the  Gigantea  itself,  inclusive.  Carmen  Island,  in  the  offings,  appears  to  be- 
long to  the  same  formation,  having  a  low  dip  to  the  northeast,  with  a  slight  disturbance  at 
its  southwest  or  higher  extremity.  At  the  Chuenca,  about  15  miles  south  of  Loreto,  we  en- 
countered the  first  traces  of  metamorphism.  Here  the  sandstones  lose,  to  a  great  extent, 
their  sandy  structure,  but  retain  very  markedly  their  stratification.  This  peculiarity  exists 
almost  everywhere  where  the  rocks  have  been  altered.  The  most  notable  exception  to  the 
rule  is  found  near  Moleje,  where  the  loss  of  stratification  is  restricted  to  one  or  two  hills  only, 
and  even  there  seems  rather  to  be  due  to  a  complete  crushing  of  the  rocks  by  upheaval,  than 
to  a  blending  of  the  strata.  Half  a  dozen  miles  north  of  Loreto  is  a  group  of  hills  of  post- 
pliocene  age,  highly  fossiliferous.  The  largest  of  these,  perhaps  600  feet  high,  is  known  as 
the  Cerro  de  los  Ostiones.  The  fossils  are  in  a  pretty  good  state  of  preservation,  are  all  living 
species,  but  the  variety  is  not  very  great.  Between  the  mesa  sandstones  and  the  post-plio- 
cene is  a  I'idge  of  about  300  feet  high,  and  perhaps  two  or  three  miles  long.  It  is  composed 
of  a  brown  trachyte,  and  tilts  the  more  modern  formation  to  an  angle  of  55°  east,  with  a  strike 
N.  10"  W.  mag.  Half  a  dozen  miles  farther  north  there  are  spots  in  the  post-pliocene 
entirely  destitute  of  fossils,  their  place  being  taken  by  seams  of  selenite.  The  same  fossilifer- 
ous rocks  extend  along  the  base  of  the  range,  resuming  their  horizontal  position,  and  gradu- 
ally thinning  out,  the  last  encountered  being  near  San  Juan,  and  a  few  miles  east  of  the  base 
of  the  Gigantea.  Between  the  bay  of  San  Juan  and  that  of  San  Bruno  there  are  some  low- 
hills  of  highly  metamorphosed  mesa  sandstone,  in  one  place  exhibiting  a  distinct  synclinal 
axis,  the  strike  being  still  nearly  north  and  south.  On  the  inland  side  these  are  flanked  by  thin 
beds  of  the  more  recent  rocks,  overlaid  by  a  heavy  deposit  of  volcanic  origin,  principally  grayish 
trachytes.  South  of  San  Bruno,  the  same  hills  extend  a  few  miles,  eventually  hidden  by  the 
post-pliocene  beds.  Going  westward  from  San  Juan  to  Sauce,  at  the  base  of  the  Gigantea, 
the  road  first  crosses  a  narrow  alluvial  valley,  then  passes  between  hills  of  horizontal  post- 
pliocene,  covered  with  the  same  trachyte  found  toward  the  coast ;  the  lower  of  these  two 
rocks  abuts  horizontally  against  the  face  of  strata  of  highly  metamorphic  mesa  sandstones, 
dipping  at  an  angle  of  35°.  These  sandstones,  within  a  mile,  assume  a  horizontal  position, 
and  in  turn  abut  against  a  mass  of  granite  which  forms  the  base  at  this  point  of  the  Gigantea. 
The  granite  is  a  small  fragment  exposed  by  denudation,  about  four  miles  long  and  a  mile  wide, 
and  the  sandstones  lie  horizontally  on  and  against  it  in  such  a  manner  as  to  prove  that  they 
have  not  been  materially  disturbed  since  the  deposition.  The  enormous  succession  of  beds, 
rising  with  an  almost  perpendicular  face,  and  forming  the  whole  height  of  the  mountain,  is 
unbroken,  except  by  a  few  dikes,  which  also  cut  through  the  granite  and  the  sandstones  lying 
on  its  opposite  sides. 

The  section  exhibited  by  the  face  of  this  mountain  proves  the  origin  of  the  immense  sheets 
of  volcanic  rocks  which  cover  so  much  of  the  surface  of  this  region.  Except  the  volcano  of 
the  Virgenes  and  the  few  cones  about  San  Ignacio,  no  true  volcanoes  occur  on  the  peninsula. 
The  country  has  been  covered  by  means  of  the  inconspicuous  dikes  which,  having  exhausted 
themselves  in  inundating  the  neighborhood  with  a  fiery  deluge,  have  become  at  once  and  for- 
ever extinct.  From  the  summit  of  the  Gigantea  to  the  west  coast,  the  section  is  practically 
identical  with  that  described  from  Magdalena  Bay  to  the  gulf.  Regularly  stratified  mesa 
sandstones,  cut  by  dikes  and  capped  with  a  nearly  continuous  sheet  of  volcanic  rocks,  extend 
to  near  the  edge  of  the  plains.  The  metamorphism  of  the  sandstones  disappears  by  almost 
insensible  gradation  below  Comondu,  and,  almost  simultaneously  with  the  loss  of  the  volcanic, 
we  find  again  the  post-pliocene  coming  in,  first  with  a  thin  edge  of  limestone,  nearly  made  up 
of  fossils,  afterward  ■  making  up  the  entire  thickness  of  the  low  mesas,  so  for  as  could  be 
seen  by  the  sections  in  tlie  arroyos.  From  San  Juanico  south,  for  half  a  dozen  miles,  is  a  tract 
a  mile  or  two  wide,  covered  by  barren  saiul-hills,  and  showing  no  underlying  rocks.  Back  of 
this  are  low  tables, and  rolling  ground  made  up  of  the  lower  beds  of  the  post-pliocene,  without 
fossils,  but  filled  with  seams  of  selenite,  and  in  most  places  overlaid  by  a  deposit  of  volcanic 
rocks.  This  continues  to  near  the  mission  of  Purisima,  where  the  mesa  sandstones  coming 
in  more  or  less  disturbed,  lying  in  gentle  undulations,  the  post-pliocene  covers  them  uncon- 
formably  and  rapidly  tliins  out.  From  the  Purisima  to  the  summit  the  older  strata  continue, 
slightly  disturbed,  and  in  the  higher  parts  more  or  less  metamorphosed.  The  metamorphism 
'  continues  past  the  summit  to  the  coast.  Here,  for  the  first  time,  appears  some  trace  of  an 
anticlinal  axis,  the  hill  between  the  main  crest  and  the  gulf  being  more  marked,  the  distance 
being  greater,  and  the  rocks  dipping  in  various  directions,  an  easterly  dip  predominating.  Near 
Moleje  the  disturbance  seems  to  have  reached  its  climax;  in  some  places  the  stratification  is 
completely  lost,  the  rocks  are  altered  as  if  by  the  action  of  mineral  waters,  and  look  as  if 
they  had  been  burned  in  a  kiln,  and  considerable  quantities  of  alum  and  sulphur  are  said  to 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  H^ 

exist  in  the  vicinity.  Polonitc  also  exists,  but  not  in  tho  riuaTititios  tliat  liave  hcon  reported 
l\v  irresponsible  parties,  whose  aim  was  to  spcenlate  on  the  ereilulity  or  love  of  c^ain  of  per- 
sons who  were  unable  to  test  their  voracity.  The  existence  of  sulpliate  of  lime  in  some  of 
the  metamorphic  rocks  about  Moleje  renders  it  probable  that  at  least  a  portion  of  them  may 
belong-  to  the  more  modern  formation,  since,  should  they  prove  to  be  the  older  mesa  sand- 
stones, this  will  be  the  first  instance  in  Lower  California  where  gypsum  has  been  found  in 
that  formation. 

For  about  fifty  miles  northward  along  the  coast  the  road  continues  on  the  east  side  of  the 
main  sunnnit,  crossing  innumerable  ridges  all  made  up  of  metamorphosed  mesa  sandstones 
very  much  disturbed,  and  with  a  prevailing  southwesterly  dip,  striking  nearly  parallel  with 
the  direction  of  the  peninsula.  Soon  after  crossing  the  main  ridge  the  rocks  begin  to  lose 
their  metamorphic  character  and  to  lie  more  regularly,  assuming  again  their  gentle  soutii- 
westerly  inclination.  Directly  where  the  trail  reaches  the  summit  of  the  ridge  are  several 
large  dikes  of  trachyte,  fhc  principal  one  of  which  strikes  N.  55°  W.  magnetic,  and,  pro- 
jecting above  the  surrounding  rocks  and  soil,  runs  a  mile  or  more  like  a  wall.  No  farther 
change  takes  place  in  the  geology  until  within  a  mile  or  two  of  San  Ignacio,  where  a  fine 
little  volcano  cone  towers  isolated  above  the  neighboring  tables,  and  sends  out  a  sheet  of 
lava  over  every  thing  in  the  direction  of  the  Pacific  coast.  Almost  at  the  same  time,  the 
post -pliocene  rocks  show  themselves  under  the  volcanic,  and  in  a  few  hundred  yards  reach 
the  base  of  the  section  in  every  arroyo,  the  older  rocks  disappearing  under  them. 

Going  northeast  from  San  Ignacio  the  section  is  the  same,  except  that  the  volcanic  does 
not  end  in  a  mile  or  two  as  toward  Moleje.  Peak  after  peak  and  ridge  after  ridge  of  trachyte, 
jiorphyry,  and  pumice,  succeed  each  other,  forming  an  apparently  continuous  belt  to  the 
Volcano  de  las  Virgenes  close  to  the  gulf  coast.  Turning  more  to  the  north,  and  leaving  this 
volcanic  belt  to  the  right,  the  trail  strikes  directly  for  the  main  range  and  enters  a  highly 
metamorphosed  and  somewhat  undulating  mass  of  the  mesa  sandstones,  which  here  lose  en- 
tirely for  a  time  their  "  table-mountain  "  structure.  The  chain,  here  very  jagged  and  broken 
in  appearance,  makes  a  sudden  bend  away  from  the  main  coast,  and,  curving  around  again,  ap- 
proaches it  near  Sta.  Gertrudes.  From  this  part  of  the  range  the  tables  slope  down  as  before, 
toward  the  Pacific,  but,  instead  of  reaching  the  coast,  are  cut  off  by  a  small  range,  known  as 
the  Santa  Clara  Mountains,  which  are  said  to  be  granitic,  and  which  extend  almost  all  the  way 
from  the  bay  of  Ballenas  to  that  of  San  Sebastian  Viscaino.  The  region  included  within  the 
before-mentioned  curve  of  the  main  ridge  and  the  gulf  coast  is  a  barren,  sterile  tract,  made 
up  of  low  irregular  ridges  of  metamorpluc  sandstone,  without  water  or  grass,  and  hardly  able 
to  support  the  straggling  growth  of  cactus  which  alone  gives  a  semblance  of  life  to  this  most 
inhospitable  waste.  Water  exists  at  but  three  spots  on  this  side  of  the  mountains : 
Sta.  Marta,  as  a  little  stream  trickling  along  a  rocky  bed ;  at  Rosarita,  as  a  spring  without 
overflow,  and  again  at  San  Juan,  in  a  caiion  close  to  the  base  of  the  ridge,  as  a  little  tepid 
spring,  with  a  rivulet  of  but  a  few  rods  in  length  running  out  of  it.  From  San  Juan  the  trail 
climbs  directly  up  the  fiice  of  the  mountain,  here  called  El  Obispo  (The  Bishop),  and,  entering 
the  head  of  a  rocky  canon,  follows  it  down  to  Sta.  Gertrudes,  while  east  of  the  mountain, 
the  usual  amount  of  slight  disturbances  exists ;  as  soon  as  the  summit  is  passed,  the  sandstones 
resume  their  nearly  horizontal  position  and  retain  it  almost  without  interruption,  but  without 
again  losing  their  metamorphism.  Directly  at  Sta.  Gertrudes  a  small  mass  of  granite  shows 
itself  in  the  caiion,  cut  into  and  exposed  by  the  denuding  effects  of  the  mountain-stream. 
This  is  but  a  few  rods  in  extent,  and  for  the  next  two  leagues  on  the  road  to  San  Borja  the 
metamorphic  sandstones  continue,  interrupted  but  once  by  a  large  and  very  peculiar-looking 
dike  of  dark-gray  cellular  trachyte.  This  is  exposed  by  an  excellent  section  of  about  forty 
feet  high,  on  the  nearly  vertical  bank  of  an  arroyo.  The  sandstone  was  uplifted  from  below 
over  a  space  of  a  couple  of  hundred  feet,  the  sides  rising  in  regular  and  gently  converging 
curves.  The  volcanic  rock  filled  the  cavity  thus  formed  and  broke  through  in  the  middle. 
Subsequently  the  whole  mass  was  denuded  to  a  nearly  perfect  level,  and  the  section  now  pre- 
sents the  appearance  of  a  very  blunt  wedge  of  trachyte  with  concave  fixces,  on  which  lie 
curved  strata  of  sandstone.  The  dike,  which,  from  its  greater  hardness,  resisted  longest  the 
denuding  forces,  now  strews  the  surface  with  its  fragments  for  many  hundreds  of  yards  in 
every  direction. 

Soon  after  leaving  this  dike  the  trail  enters  a  broad  desert  valley,  covered  with  a  scattered 
volcanic  "  pedregal "  and  underlaid  by  thin  horizontal  beds  of  non-fossiiiferous  shale,  resem- 
bling in  every  respect  the  post-pliocene  of  farther  south.  In  two  or  three  leagues  the  shale 
thins  out  and  disappears  entirely,  the  only  rock  remaining  being  granite  covered  in  places 
by  a  thin  soil  of  granitic  sand.  The  higher  hills  are  also  granite,  but  are  usually  capped  by 
beds  of  volcanic  and  sometimes  .sub-basaltiform  rocks,  with  a  marked  inclination  to  the  south- 
west. These  may  be  considered  as  outliers  of  the  mesa  structure,  and  as  the  connecting  link 
between  the  middle  and  northern  sections  into  which  I  have  divided  the  peninsula.  In  some 
places  the  lavas  arc  underlaid  by  thin  beds  of  post-pliocene,  and  near  San  Sebastian  I  ob- 
served a  few  hills  in  which  the  whole  series  was  represented  ;  the  volcanic  on  top,  underlaid 
by  post-pliocene,  the  mesa  sandstones  under  this,  and  granite  forming  the  great  mass  of  the 
hill.  The  sedimentary  rock  where  they  thus  exist  is  quite  thin,  forming  with  the  overlying 
volcanic  cap  not  more,  perhaps,  than  a  couple  of  hundred  feet  in  thickness.      North  from 


118  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

San  Sebastian,  to  the  south  side  of  the  range  of  hills  behind  Yubai,  the  whole  country  is 
capped  with  greater  or  less  regularity  by  volcanic  tables,  which  at  San  Borja  are  three  or  four 
hundred  feet  thick,  and,  while  they  are  very  thin  at  Trinidad,  southwest  of  San  Borja  are 
underlaid  for  a  mile  or  two  by  from  two  to  four  hundred  feet  in  thickness  of  post-pliocene 
sandstone  and  conglomerates.  About  Rosarito  the  lavas  generally  disappear  a  few  miles  from 
the  coast,  the  outer  hills  being  low,  rolling,  and  composed  of  a  soft  granite  in  which  some 
copper  stains  have  been  observed,  and  some  unsuccessful  mining  done.  One  little  group  of 
hills  about  a  league  to  the  northwest  of  Rosarito  is  capped  by  some  post-pliocene  outliers 
entirely  isolated,  the  nearest  other  locality  of  this  rock  which  we  saw  being  about  fifteen  miles 
distant.  From  this  point  to  the  valley  of  San  Andreas  the  whole  country  is  granite,  cut  by 
a  dike  of  blackish  porphyry  at  Santo  Domingo,  where  there  is  a  small  spring  of  water. 
Another  dike  at  San  Andreas  acts  as  a  dam,  and  forms  quite  a  large  lake  and  extensive 
marsh.  In  the  valley  of  San  Andreas  and  the  adjoining  low  mesas,  the  northern  a  mile  or 
two  wide,  the  southern  extending  probably  almost  to  Yubai,  are  beds  of  a  soft,  light-gray 
sandstone  horizontally  stratified  and  without  fossils.  Judging  from  analogy  and  lithological 
resemblance,  I  consider  this  to  be  post-pliocene. 

About  here,  or  rather  between  here  and  San  Borja,  the  whole  topographical  system  of  the 
country  undergoes  a  decided  change. 

The  table-lands,  gently  sloping  up  from  the  Pacific  to  near  the  Gulf  coast,  disappear.  The 
western  side,  first  broken  into  low,  rolling  hills,  begins  to  form  a  decided  mountain-range,  con- 
nected, it  is  true,  with  the  eastern  side,  but  by  cross-ridges  instead  of  tables. 

The  horizontal  stratified  mesa  sandstones  still  retain  a  strong  development,  but  cling 
close  to  the  east  coast,  and  eventually  disappear  in  a  series  of  low%  ragged  ridges  near  the 
bay  of  San  Luis.  The  chain,  however,  is  continued  as  a  granite  ridge  some  distance  farther 
up  the  coast,  finally  dropping  as  a  series  of  lava-capped  hills,  falling  lower  and  lower  until 
they  are  lost  to  sight  in  the  distant  deserts  of  the  northeast.  In  the  mean  time  the  western 
range,  constantly  assuming  grander  proportions,  covers  with  its  spurs  more  than  half  the 
width  of  the  peninsula,  and,  running  northward,  continues  across  the  boundary  into  Upper 
California,  uniting  with  the  San  Gabriel  range. 

From  the  northeastern  margin  of  the  mesa  of  Santa  Ana  where  the  trail  strikes  the  high 
hills,  the  rocks  are  all  of  mesa  sandstone,  highly  metamorphosed,  forming  quartzites,  mica 
and  talcose  slates  and  jaspers.  These  continue  east  to  the  coast  with  variable  strikes  of  from 
N.  24°  W.  to  N.  4G'  AV.  magnetic,  the  prevailing  dip  being  high  to  the  northeast.  Along  the 
east  face  of  the  range  they  thin  out  and  disappear  about  three  leagues  above  Calamujuet, 
being  replaced  by  granite. 

At  Sta.  Maria  the  summits  of  the  highest  parts  of  the  ridge  are  capped  by  post-pliocene 
sandstones  covered  with  volcanic  rocks.  From  here  to  Agua  Dulce  the  same  structure  con- 
tinues. The  plains  and  valleys  are  of  granite,  the  higher  hills  being  capped  as  at 
Sta.  Maria.  From  Agua  Dulce  the  hills  fell  rapidly,  the  post-pliocene  eventually  forming 
the  valley  land,  the  granite  disappearing  and  the  few  low  tables  that  exist  being  made  up  in 
part  or  in  whole  of  volcanic  rock.  This  continues  to  the  margin  of  the  main  chain  within 
a  league  of  the  deserted  mission  of  San  Fernando.  The  chain  here  consists  of  a  core  of 
granite,  on  both  flanks  of  which  are  stratified  volcanic  rocks,  ash,  pumice,  and  harder  lavas 
lying  highly  uptilted  against  the  granite,  but  assuming  a  horizontal  position  on  the  west  side 
at  a  short  distance  from  the  granite. 

These  volcanic  beds  are  soon  succeeded  by  horizontal  stratified  beds  of  post-pliocene 
sand  and  gravel  which  extend  to  the  coast,  covered  in  places  with  a  rough  pedregal.  Fol- 
lowing up  the  coast  they  form  low  tables,  usually  at  some  distance  from  the  beach,  but 
extending  to  within  four  leagues  of  San  Telmo,  where  they  are  cut  off  by  a  spur  of  the  higher 
range  coming  down  to  the  ocean.  As  seen  from  the  coast  road  the  high  chain  inland  appears 
to  retain  its  structure  as  we  saw  it  at  San  Fernando. 

At  San  Quentin,  near  the  salt-ponds,  are  two  or  three  hills  composed  of  hard^gray,  cellular 
volcanic  rock,  in  parts  having  a  sub-basaltiform  structure.  They  are  entirely  isolated  and 
cover  a  comparatively  small  area.  From  San  Quentin  there  is  no  rock,  except  the  post-plio- 
cene on  or  near  the  coast,  for  10  leagues  northward  to  where  the  high  range  sends  dov.n  a 
series  of  spurs.  From  here  the  features  of  the  country  suffer  a  marked  change.  The  liigher 
chain,  with  its  granite  core  tipped  and  bordered  with  volcanic  rocks,  occupies  the  whole 
western  half  of  tlie  peninsula  from  this  point  to  tlie  ))oundary.  A  border  of  rolling  hills  of 
trachyte  and  porphyry,  about  a  league  or  a  league  and  a  half  in  width,  forms  the  flank  of  the 
range.  Crossing  this,  the  road  enters  granite,  which  then  continues  uninterruptedly  for  more 
than  10  leagues  along  the  crooked  trail  to  the  old  mission  of  San  Vicente. 

At  San  Telmo  there  is  a  curious  belt  of  a  mile  or  more  in  width,  in  which  the  granite 
presents  almost  the  appearance  of  a  conglomerate.  It  is  filled  with  masses  of  a  darker,  finer- 
grained  granitoid  rock,  very  much  harder  than  the  including  mass,  and  in  fragments  of  all 
sizes  from  a  cubic  inch  to  two  or  three  tons'  weight.  These  included  masses  are,  so  to  speak, 
sub-angular ;  that  is  to  say,  they  present  imperfect  faces,  of  which  all  the  corners  and  angles 
are  blunted,  exactly  as  if,  having  been  torn  off  from  the  walls  of  a  fissure,  they  have  become 
entangled  in  the  molten  mass  of  what  is  now  granite,  their  surface  partially  melted,  and,  on 
cooling,  they  have  become  thoroughly  welded  into  the  matrix.     This  welding  is  so  perfect 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  119 

that  on  broaking  the  rock  the  cracks  cross  the  line  of  union  with  even  greater  facility  than 
they  will  follow  it. 

Six  leagues  from  San  Tehno  is  the  Delphina  copper-mine  at  a  place  called  the  S.ilada. 
Tiie  iuclu(.rinp  rocks  are  all  granite,  and  although  only  one  mine  has  been  opened,  it  is 
claimed  that  there  are  croppings  for  many  other  veins  in  the  vicinity.  From  the  Salada,  the 
road  again  approaching  slightly  toward  the  coast,  we  encounter  directly  nortli  of  San  Vicente 
more  volcanic  rocks,  but  for  the  next  half  dozen  leagues  only  as  caps  to  the  higher  i)oints. 

Approaching  Santo  Tomas,  the  volcanic  belt  widens,  extending  inland  at  least  beyond 
this  mission,  wiiich  is  21  miles  from  the  coast. 

Passing  here,  the  road  again  approaches  the  coast  and  winds  through  and  skirts  hills  of 
volcanic  origin  to  the  Saucal  I'i  leagues.  The  rocks  are  mostly  a  black  porphyry  with  small 
crystals  of  white  feldspar.  Along  this  part  of  the  route  the  granite  has  almost  entirely  dis- 
appeared, only  forming  the  bases  of  some  of  the  hills.  But  in  a  league  northeast  from  the 
Saucal  it  reasserts  itself,  the  porphyries  and  trachytes  thinning  out  and  disappearing  as  a 
series  of  low  hills  along  the  coast.  "From  here  to  the  boundary  the  granites  make  the  entire 
range.  Along  this  coast  for  a  few  miles,  and  extending  up  the  valley  of  the  Tia  Juana,  are 
some  low  terraced  tables  of  post-pliocene  age  which  abut  horizontally  against  the. granite. 
Those  below  the  river  end  abruptly  near  its  mouth,  but  those  on  the  east  side  continue  to 
flank  the  hills  as  a  low  mesa,  reaching  the  coast  near  San  Diego. 

The  region  east  of  the  summit  of  this  range  and  north  from  Santa  Maria  is  entirely 
unknown  geologically.  It  is  said  to  be  a  dry,  arid  desert,  mostly  covered  with  loose  sand, 
with  some  fertile  little  spots  scattered  through  it  such  as  Santa  Catarina.  So  far  as  I  could 
learn  by  carefully  cross-questioning  several  Indians,  it  appears  that  the  mountains  occupy 
the  western  half"  or  two-thirds  of  "the  peninsula,  the  remainder  being  nearly  level.  It  was 
with  extreme  regret  that  we  felt  ourselves  obliged  to  neglect  this  district,  but  it  was  outside 
of  the  tract  which  we  had  undertaken  to  examine.  The  necessary  delays  we  had  been  obliged 
to  make  elsewhere  had  kept  us  much  beyond  the  time  we  had  allowed  ourselves,  our  mules 
were  nearly  exhausted,  as  well  as  our  funds,  and,  after  three  or  four  months  of  exile,  without 
the  sight  of  a  letter  or  newspaper,  we  were  all  anxious  to  catch  the  first  possible  glimpse  of 
civilization,  and  find  out  what  had  been  going  on  in  the  world.  We,  therefore,  consoled 
ourselves  with  the  belief  that  "  that  corner  wasn't  of  much  account  anyhow." 

MINING. 

As  is  the  case  in  almost  every  part  of  the  Pacific  side  of  North  America,  mining  excite- 
ments have  been  raised  from  time  to  time  in  nearly  every  portion  of  Lower  California. 
Search  has  been  made  for  all  the  more  valuable  metals,  and  for  coal,  until  arrastres  and 
"  prospect-holes  "  are  as  common  as  in  the  Sierra  Nevada  of  the  "  Golden  State." 

Unfortunately  for  the  honest  miner,  whose  zeal  and  faith  in  most  instances  far  outweighed 
his  knowledge,  the  very  great  majority  of  these  ill-directed  efforts  have  proved  abortive.  Coal 
has  been  hunted  for  on  the  slight  inducement  of  masses  of  black  mica  in  granite;  gold,  silver, 
and  copper  mines  have  been  opened  in  unaltered  tertiary  rocks,  and  the  history  of  mining  in 
the  territory  has  been  the  usual  one  of  ignorance,  stupidity,  and  disaster. 

But,  while  so  many  unfortunates  have  been  wasting  their  little  means,  learning,  when  it 
was  too  late,  how  completely  they  had  deceived  themselves,  a  few  have  been  more  fortunate. 
Near  the  two  extremities  of  the  peninsula  have  been  found  mines  which  will  bear  a  fair  com- 
parison with  similar  mines  in  other  parts  of  the  world.  Below  La  Paz  have  been  found 
veins  of  silver  ores  of  sufficient  size  and  richness  to  yield  a  fair  if  not  a  very  large  profit  to 
their  owners,  as  recent  shipments  of  bullion  to  San  Francisco  will  demonstrate,  and  between 
San  Telmo  and  Santo  Tomas  the  recent  workings  of  the  Delphina  mine  promise  success  for 
that  region. 

Gold  has  been  faithfully  sought  for  over  nearly  the  whole  length  and  breadth  of  the  coun- 
try. It  is  claimed  that  in  the  granite  mountains  of  the  vicinity  of  tlie  cape,  veins  of  gold- 
bearing  fpiartz  exist,  and  that  small  but  rich  placers  are  known.  Their  never  having  been 
worked  throws  a  grave  suspicion  over  the  veracity  of  the  statement. 

It  is  a  well-authenticated  ftict  that,  in  the  arroyo  running  down  from  San  Antonio  to 
Ventana  Bay,  gold  has  been  washed  during  the  wet  seasons  by  women  in  bateas  or  wooden 
bowls  almost  from  time  immemorial.  Farther  north  in  many  of  the  canons  in  tlie  granite 
mountains,  I  "  prospected  "  the  gravel  carefully,  but  failed  to  ever  find  a  "  color."  That  is, 
in  plain  English,  I  washed  the  gravel  in  a  pan,  mincr-fasliion,  and  failed  to  find  even  the 
slightest  particle  of  gold.  The  reason  is  easily  found.  That  the  metal  does  exist  here  is  an 
indisputable  fact,  but  the  quantity  is  so  small  ihat  it  would  take  all  the  gold  from  Santa  Ger- 
trudis  to  San  Diego  to  make  one  good  placer.  At  many  places  qinirtz-niining  has  been  under- 
taken, but  as  often  abandoned.  Old  shafts  and  tunnels  and  dilapidated  arastras  are  scattered 
all  over  the  country,  from  San  Ignacio  to  Rosario,  but,  wherever  their  history  was  remem- 
bered, we  were  told  that  the  miners  failed  to  find  the  vein,  or  that  the  quantity  of  gold  was, 
too  little  to  pay. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Triunfo  and  San  Antonio,  silver-mining  has  been  carried  on  in  a  small 
way  ever  since  the  time  of  the  misShjnsr    Tite~-oifi_  being  of  a  highly  refractory  character, 


120  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AXD 

■where  undceomposed  by  surface  influences,  baffled  the  skill  of  the  early  miners ;  who,  con- 
sequently, contented  themselves  by  taking  out  and  working  the  "azogue"  metal  or  decom- 
posed surface  ore,  which  would  amalgamate  without  roasting. 

The  result  is,  that  almost  every  vein  has  a  series  of  shallow  openings  along  nearly  its  whole 
length,  from  which  the  yellowish  friable  vein-stone  filled  with  free  silver  has  been  taken. 

More  recently  a  couple  of  mines,  called  the  !^an  Pedro  and  San  Nicolas,  were  opened  by  a 
company  from  Mazatlan,  and  have  been  worked  in  an  inefficient  and  irregular  manner  "for 
nine  or  ten  years.  The  better  class  of  the  ore  has  been  selected,  and  sent  to  Germany  foi* 
reduction.  The  total  expenses  per  ton  for  mining,  sorting,  and  shipping,  up  to  the  time  of 
delivery  to  the  mill,  have  averaged  about  $74.  Notwithstanding  this  heavy  burden,  the  mines 
have  been  profitable  to  their  owners.  They  are  still  being  worked,  and,  in  spite  of  all  sorts 
of  disadvantages  resulting  from  mismanagement  and  ignorance,  pay  to  the  company  a  fair 
return  on  the  investment. 

In  the  hands  of  an  intelligent  and  educated  miner,  with  a  good  mill  to  reduce  both  first 
and  second  class  ores  on  the  spot,  these  mines  would  become  of  immense  value. 

On  the  same  vein,  and  at  a  distance  of  perhaps  three  miles  from  the  "  Mexican  Mines," 
are  the  mines  of  the  Triunfo  Company.  I  have  already  described  these  in  another  part  of 
my  report  so  fully,  that  it  is  unnecessary  to  say  more  here.  The  last  two  steamers  from 
Lower  California  have  brought  up  returns  from  the  mill  to  the  amount  of  over  830,000,  as 
the  result  of  about  six  weeks'  actual- work.  The  probable  run  will  be  in  the  neighborhood  of 
$20,000  per  month,  and  the  company  will  be  perfectly  justified  in  doubling  their  mill  capacity 
just  as  soon  as  they  can  get  their  machinery  on  the  ground.  Their  least  trouble  will  be  to 
find  ore  to  work. 

Besides  the  Triunfo  and  Mexican  mines,  there  are  others  in.  the  same  district,  which  have 
been  so  far  opened  as  to  prove  that  all  they  require  is  energetic  and  intelligent  labor  for  a 
few  months,  to  put  them  in  a  condition  to  rival  their  already  successful  neighbors  ;  and  I  see 
no  reason  why,  in  a  couple  of  years  more,  this  region  should  not  be  one  of  the  most  thriving 
and  productive  silver  districts  on  the  coast ;  provided  American  capital,  American  energy, 
and  American  intelligence,  under  the  security  of  the  American  Government,  could  take  the 
mines  in  hand  and  develop  them  as  their  value  merits. 

The  Cacachilas  district  is  claimed  as  rich  in  silver,  but  no  mines  have  as  yet  been  developed 
there.  For  reasons,  explained  elsewhere,  we  did  not  visit  it,  and  I  shall  pass  it  by  v>-ith  the 
mere  mention. 

Silver-mines  are  also  claimed  to  exist  on  the  east  coast  opposite  the  island  of  the  Guar- 
dian Angel.  If  this  is  a  fact,  the  knowledge  of  it  exists  only  as  a  mere  rumor,  and  certainly 
no  work  worthy  of  mention  has  ever  been  done. 

The  accounts  were  so  vague  and  the  location  of  the  "mines"  so  imperfectly  known  that 
we  did  not  consider  it  worth  while  to  spend  a  week  hunting  for  them.  I  believe  their  exist- 
ence even  to  be  very  problematical. 

Copper  stains  and  little  streaks  of  this  metal  exist  in  almost  innumerable  localities 
through  the  peninsula,  both  in  the  metamorphosed  mesa  sandstones  and  in  the  granites. 
The  principal  localities  where  any  work  has  been  done  are  at  the  Calabazas,  between  Triunfo 
and  La  Faz,  at  the  Sauce  near  Loreto,  Larroque's  mine  near  the  mouth  of  the  Arroyo  del 
Paraiso,  at  the  northern  San  Antonio,  and  at  the  Delphina  mine  at  La  Salada. 

At  the  first  of  these  places  some  mining  has  been  done,  tlie  work  stopped,  and  the  owners 
are  waiting  to  sell.  They  say  the  Inincs  are  good.  At  the  Sauce  the  same  condition  of 
affiiirs  exists.  The  owners  seemed  to  consider  it  to  their  interest  to  prevent  our  examining 
the  mine,  and  we  only  know  its  character  from  information.  Mr.  Ashburner,  who  was  em- 
ployed to  examine  it,  lias  no  confidence  in  it.  Larroque's  mine  is  one  about  which  no  doubt 
can  exist,  and  the  other  in  the  same  vicinity  is  said  to  be  almost  identical. 

The  various  mines  about  San  Antonio,  in  the  "Frontiers,"  are  apparently  similar  to  Lar- 
roque's, although  it  is  said  that  very  good  "indications  "  existed  in  the  bottom  of  tlie  shaft 
of  the  Azul  mine,  now  caved  in. 

Some  very  rich  ore  is  reported  to  have  been  brought  from  out-crops  on  the  granite  plain, 
between  Santa  Maria  and  San  Fernando  Mission,  but,  so  far  as. I  could  learn,  little  or  no  work 
has  been  done  to  test  tlie  veins.  Our  guides  were  ignorant  of  the  locality,  and  we  passed  it 
only  to  learn  of  it  on  reaching  San  Diego. 

At  the  Delphina  mine  much  work  of  a  good  substantial  character  has  been  done,  and  the 
greater  part  of  it  with  a  view  to  legitimate  mining.  The  vein  looks  extremely  promising 
above,  where  we  had  an  opportunity  of  examining  it,  and,  according  to  the  best  information 
we  could  obtain,  does  not  change  its  character,  except  for  the  better,  along  the  line  of  shaft 
some  150  feet  deep. 

Tlie  absence  of  everybody  who  knew  the  shaft,  and  the  fear  of  foul  air  and  other  dangers 
incidental  to  a  deserted  mine,  prevented  us  from  going  down  to  examine  the  vein  along  its 
depth. 

A  good  proof  of  the  value  of  the  mine  exists  in  the  presence  of  between  300  and  400 
sacks  of  excellent  ore  awaiting  shipment,  Ijesides  which,  I  have  learned  that  several  hun- 
dred sacks  are  stacked  on  the  beach,  ready  to  ship  as  soon  as  a  rise  in  the  market  price  of 
copper  shall  enable  the  owners  to  sell  without  serious  sacrifice. 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNLV.  121 

Veins  of  the  baser  metals  are  reported  to  oeciir  on  the  peninsula,  l>ut  many  a  year  must 
pass  before  they  ean  be  of  any  value  to  the  country.  Coal  has  l)cen  scavehcil  for  unsuccess- 
fully. I  heard  a  rumor  of  its  occurrence  near  the  Ojo  dc  Liebre,  in  tlie  vicinity  of  8cam- 
mon's  Lagoon,  but  the  rocks  there  are  post-pliocene.  It  may  prove  to  be  asphaltum  such  as 
is  fouiul  in  Sftnta  Barbara  and  Los  Angeles  Counties,  California,  and  which  has  been  repeat- 
edly mistaken  for  coal  by  ignorant  persons. 

Sulphur  exists  in  small  quantities  about  Moloje,  and  is  said  to  be  found  abundantly  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  volcano  of  the  Virgins.  (Jvpsum  occurs  scattered  over  many  parts  of  the 
table-land,  and  in  sheets  in  the  rocks,  especially  on  the  western  slope.  It  is  most  abundant, 
however,  about  Moleje,  where  extravagant  stories  have  been  told  about  its  quantity. 

Salt-lakes  exist  on  Carmen  Island,  at  San  Quentin,  and  the  Ojo  do  Liebre,  sufficiently 
extensive  to  be  one  day  a  source  of  great  revenue ;  but  so  long  as  the  salt  has  to  pass  two 
custom-houses  on  its  way  to  a  market,  the  duties  will  consume  all  the  proiits. 

riSHERIES. 

Along  the  western  coast,  in  almost  every  large  bay,  whalers  have  been  in  the  habit  of  spend- 
ing a  whole  season  at  a  time  for  many  years  past.  Every  season  finds  from  three  to  a  dozen 
whaling-vessels  in  JIagdalena  Bay  and  its  adjoining  estuary,  and  the  proceeds  of  a  season  are 
so  regular  that  year  after  year  the  same  vessel  is  found  at  its  accustomed  berth.  The  prin- 
cipal bays  frequented  by  the  vessels  engaged  in  this  business  are  Magdalena,  and 
the  two  like  bays,  one  below  San  Ignacio,  and  the  other  by  the  Ojo  de  Liebre,  the  latter 
known  as  Scammon's  Lagoon.  This  opens  by  a  narrow  mouth  into  the  broad  open  bay  of 
San  Sebastian  Viscaino ;  the  other,  which  has  no  other  name  than  La  Laguna,  opens  into 
Ballenas  Bay. 

Other  parts,  such  as  San  Juanico,  Sto.  Domingo,  and  others  forther  north,  are  visited  fre- 
(|uently,  but  are  not  the  sites  of  regular  fisheries.  Besides  the  whale-fisheries,  the  whole 
Pacific  side  of  the  peninsula  furnishes  unusual  facilities  for  seal-hunters.  Seals  swarm  by 
myriads  everywhere,  and  this  branch  of  industry  has  been  heretofore  almost  entirely  neglected 
in  Lower  California.  Xor  are  these  all ;  shoals  of  fish  frequent  these  shores  in  such  abun- 
dance, that  the  surfiice  is  often  agitated  for  hundreds  of  yards  by  a  school  playing  almost 
•within  arm's  reach  of  the  sands.  On  either  coast  there  are  countless  spots  where  fisheries 
could  be  established  with  all  the  facilities  of  a  good  beach,  and  excellent  port  and 
unlimited  quantities  of  salt.  Besides  these,  there  is  another  source  of  revenue  in  the  waters, 
not  to  be  despised — the  immense  beds  of  pearl  oysters.  They  are  principally  in  the  gulf. 
Pearl-fishing  has  been  for  over  a  hundred  years  a  regular  business,  and  one  of  the  most 
profitable  in  Lower  California.  It  is  estimated  that  in  the  last  century  and  a  half  upward  of 
five  and  a  half  million  dollars'  worth  of  pearls,  and  pearl  shells  have  been  taken  in  the  Califor- 
nian  waters. 

The  fishing  commences  in  May  and  continues  to  October.  It  is  conducted  by  companies, 
the  divers  being  principally  Yaqui  Indians  from  the  other  side  of  the  gulf,  who  receive,  in 
addition  to  a  trifling  pay,  a  portion  of  the  proceeds  of  the  fishery. 

Between  their  ignorance  and  the  rascality  of  their  employers,  the  poor  fellows,  who  do  the 
work  at  the  risk  of  their  lives,  come  in  for  a  very  small  share  of  the  profits. 

Diving-bells  and  submarine  armor  have  been  tried  at  great  expense,  but  Iheir  use  has 
been  abandoned.  They  could  not  compete  with  the  naked  Indians  in  cheapness,  nor  rapidity 
of  work. 

AGRICULTURE. 

With  the  great  extent  of  desert  and  rocky  land  that  covers  so  much  of  the  territory,  Lower 
California  ean  never  aspire  to  a  high  rank  as  an  agricultural  country.  But  there  is  no  pic- 
ture without  its  brightest  side.  E\*cfl~Tn' tlie  v.orst  parts,  the  weary  traveller,  after  journey- 
ing day  after  day  over  rocks  or  sands,  will  suddenly  find  himself  in  the  midst  of  a  little  Eden. 
In  the  most  inhospitSl)le  parts  of  the  peninsula,  these  little  valleys  are  scattered  through  the 
mountains,  as  if  to  redeem  the  country  from  the  bad  name  that  all  its  neighbors  seem  to  agree 
in  giving  it.  It  is  difficult  to  imagine  a  spot  more  beautiful  than  Santa  Anita  in  San  .1g^6 
valley  ;  more  fertile  than  the  neighborhood  of  San  Jose  or  San  Ignacio,  in"orc  TTrTtTpfnPtefTthan 
Coniondu  or  Purisima,  or  with  a  climate  more  perfect  than  Lower  California. 

There  is  hardly  a  fruit,  flower,  or  vegetal)le  that  will  not  grow  in  the  open  air  in  any  val- 
ley in  the  country,  and,  of  those  that  are  cultivated,  there  is  hardly  one  that  requires  care  be- 
yond a  little  irrigation. 

In  tlie  granite  mountains  of  the  south  are  innumerable  valleys,  all  capable  of  cultivation, 
all  with  fertile  soil  and  most  of  them  with  an  abundance  of  good  water.  The  greater  part  of 
these  are  occupied,  but  there  is  .still  an  immense  quantity  of  unocc^ipied  land,  capable  of  being 
brought  into  an  available  condition  with  a  trifling  outlay  of  capital. 

The  immense  plains  northeast  of  Mtigdalena  Bay  are  covered  with  rich  soil,  and  only  re- 
quire wells  to  bring  water  to  the  surface  lor  irrigation,  to  render  them  available.  There  is, 
in  this  one  tract,  land  enough  to  supgort  a  population  of  many  thousands,  on  which  there  is 


122  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    ANB 

not  a  single  inhabitant.  Among  the  table  hills  to  the  east  of  this  plain  are  many  small  val- 
leys with  good  little  tracts  of  bottom-land  and  plenty  of  water.  Most  of  these  are  without 
inhabitants.  A  few  such  as  Comondu,  Purisima,  Sta.  Cruz,  etc.,  are  occupied,  and  in  some, 
such  as  the  first  two  of  these,  there  are  populations  of  twenty  or  thirty  families. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Lpreto,  especially  along  the  coast  southward  to  Chuenca,  there  is  much 
good  land,  without  occupants,  because  there  are  no  springs  or  running  streams  on  it.  Water 
can  be  obtained  by  wells,  and  there  is  no  good  reason  why,  if,  required,  it  should  not  be  all 
cultivated.  This  is  also  the  case  with  the  valley  of  San  Andreas  farther  north,  and  the  valley 
south  of  Moleje,  through  which  our  road  ran  before  entering  that  town. 

San  Ignacio,  with  its  vineyards,  its  orchards  of  figs,  oranges,  and  olives,  and  its  forest  of 
palms,  is  enough  to  reconcile  one  to  the  relinquishment  of  ambition  and  the  adoption  of  the 
dream-life  of  the  tropics  ;  while,  a  little  farther  north,  in  Sto.  Tomas,  San  Vicente,  Guadalupe, 
and  a  dozen  other  valleys,  the  farmer  can  cultivate  his  fields  of  grain,  live  in  the  shadow  of 
his  own  vine  and  fig  tree,  or,  if  he  prefers  it,  shade  his  house  with  the  palm  of  the  tropics, 
and  the  oak  and  sycamore  of  more  northern  climes. 

GEAZING. 

At  the  time  of  our  passing  through  the  country,  with  the  exception  of  some  spots  which 
rather  proved  the  rule,  the  whole  country  was  clothed  with  an  abundance  of  good  grass.  But 
this  was  an  unusually  good  year.  There  are  times  when,  in  all  the  lower  grounds,  the  grass 
will  be  so  killed  by  drought  that  were  it  not  for  trees,  such  as  mesquit  and  lipua,  all  the 
animals  would  die  of  starvation.  But  even  in  the  dryest  seasons,  these  trees,  as  well  as  some 
smaller  ones  and  bushes,  retain  their  freshness,  and  the  horses,  mules,  and  horned  cattle  feed 
on  them  with  avidity. 

In  the  higher  taJale-mountains  from  San  Ignacio  to  San  Borja,  the  grass  is  said  to  be  al- 
ways good,  on  account  of  the  dews  and  fogs,  and  cattle  flourish  here  when  there  is  not  a 
mouthful  of  grass  on  the  lower  lands.  North  of  Rosario,  the  forage-plants  are  similar  to  those 
of  Upper  California,  and  the  climate  is  more  like  that  of  the  adjoining  regions  north  than 
south.  It  is  said  that  in  the  years  1863  and  1864,  when  a  large  proportion  of  the  stock  of 
Upper  California  died  of  starvation,  there  was  little  or  no  suflering  south  of  San  Diego.  The 
greater  part  of  this  region  is  suitable  for  sheep-raising,  the  dense  thorny  thickets  of  the  south 
having  given  place  to  a  less  aggressive  growth,  and  the  climate  being  sufliciently  mild  to  per- 
mit a  good  crop  of  wool. 

CONCLUSION. 

NoTK. — This  chapter  is  ntended  rather  for  the  private  consideration  of  the  Company,  than 
for  publication.  ^         " 

To  any  person  v.'ho  has  read  the  terms  of  the  grant,  made  by  the  Mexican  Government  to 
the  Comi)any,  and  has  then  seen  the  country  covered  by  this  grant,  but  one  conclusion  can 
present  itself — the  grantees  have  been  woefully  deceived.  The  whole  transaction  is  but  little 
short  of  a  delibei'ate  swindle.  Lower  California  possesses  but  twqj)retty_g;ood  tracts  of  coun- 
try, the  extremes,  but  both  of  these  have  been  carefully  excluded  from  the  grant,  which  covers 
only  the  rough  mountains  and  rocky  plains,  with  a  comparatively  sinall  proportion  of  avail- 
able land,  and  that  was  considered  valueless  by  the  Mexicans.  The  only  parts  of  which  the 
Company  can  avail  itself  are,  first,  the  little  slip  south  of  Loreto,  which  is  too  small  for  the 
enterprise  contemplated  by  the  grant;  and,  second,  the  broad  plains  bordering  the  estuary  north 
and  northeast  from  Magdalena  Bay.  On  this  tract  there  is  no  water  at  the  surface,  though, 
wherever  wells  liave  been  sunk,  water  of  good  ((uality  has  been  found  in  from  10  to  18  feet. 
The  whole  plain  is  covered  with  a  dense  growth  of  cactus,  and  has  little  or  no  wood.  To  send 
a  party  of  colonists  here,  without  previous  prei)aration  of  the  land  at  great  expense,  would  be 
cnminal.  The  result  needs  no  prophet  to  foretell  it.  The  history  of  the  twentv-seven  similar 
attcnipts  made  in  Lower  California  tell  only  too  plainly  how  it  would  resuit7~^6erQjx  a  colony/ 
can  be  successfully  founded,  pioneers  must  be  sent  to  dig  wells,  clear  ground,  get  a  poi'tion 
of  it  under  cultivation,  and  prejjare  it,  so  that  from  the  time  of  landing  the  colonists  can  have 
among  themselves  the  elements  of  self-sustenance.  Not  only  this,  bu*  on  account  of  the 
bitter  hatred  of  the  Mexicans  toward  our  own  people,  a  man  of  administrative  ability,  strong 
will,  and,  above  all,  intimate  acquaintance  with  the  Mexican  character,  must  be  placed  at  the 
head  of  the  colony,  with  ample  discretionary  power,  and  well  sustained  by  his  employers  in  the 
collisions  which  will  almost  inevitably  occur. 

In  thus  writing  so  plainly,  I  do  not  wish  to  be  understood  as  guilty  of  the  impertinence  of 
dictating  to,  or  advising  the  Company  about  its  own  business  affairs.  I  was  employed  to  ex- 
amine the  country,  and  ascertain  and  report  all  facts  which  would  have  a  bearing  on  the  in- 
terests of  the  Company.  The  above  conclusions  have  forced  themselves  so  strongly  upon  me 
that  I  have  considered  it  mv  duty  to  report  them,  feeling  confident  that  the  New  York  and 
Lower  California  Colonization  Company  would  know  how  far  to  accept  them  and  how  much 
of  them  to  disregard.   ■ 

Wm.  M.  Gabb. 
San  Fbahcisco,  June  15, 1867. 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNLV.  123 


REPORT  OF  CAPTAIN  C.  M.  SCAMMON,  OF  THE  U.  S.  REVE- 
NUE SERVICE,  ON  THE  WEST  COAST  OF  LOWER  CALI- 
FORNIA. 

From  the  boundary  between  the  United  States  and  Lower  California  the  west  coast 
presents  a  bold  shore.with  precipitous  cliffs,  or  high  mountain-slopes,  as  far  south  as  Cape 
!>an  Quentin,  and,  as  laid  down  on  the  charts  now  in  use,  is  in  latitude  31°  05'  06"  N.,  longitude 
116°  40'  33  '  W.  An  indentation  here  occurs  in  the  coast  line,  and  the  face  of  the  country  for 
a  few  miles  toward  the  interior,  and  southward  to  Cape  Bajo,  is  less  elevated ;  about  the  port 
of  San  Quentin,  the  low  sand-hills,  covered  scantily  with  a  stunted  growth  of  bushes,  inter- 
mixed with  cactus  and  prickly  pear,  or  moderately  elevated  hills  of  volcanic  origin,  give  this 
portion  of  the  country  a  barren  and  uninviting  aspect. 

Salt-springs,  at  the  head  of  a  lagoon  10  miles  from  the  sea,  where  are  erected  six  or 
eight  houses  and  shanties  to  accommodate  the  salt-hands,  constitute  San  Quentin  proper. 
The  salt  is  collected  from  January  to  August;  this  establishment,  it  is  said,  can  be  made  to 
yield  1,000  to  1,500  tons  annually.  Vessels  of  small  capacity  usually  go  for  the  salt,  as  the 
"depth  of  water  on  the  bar  is  not  over  three  fathoms,  and  the  channel  narrow.  The  usual  number 
residing  at  San  Quentin  is  six  or  eight  individuals,  who  are  compelled  to  go  for  fresh 
water  some  six  miles  across  the  lagoon.  Rich  copper-mines,  reported  to  be  not  over  30  miles 
from  the  town,  are  now  about  to  be  opened. 

From  Cape  Bajo  to  Passaedo  Blanco  Bay,  the  same  bold  coast  continues,  except  to  the 
south  of  San  Gerouimo  Island,  in  latitude  30'  16'  N.,  a  distance  of  10  or  15  miles ;  shoal  water 
is  found  extending  several  miles  from  the  shore,  which  is  marked  by  kelp,  in  places  growing 
in  thick  beds  that  may  be  seen  some  distance  from  the  mast-head  of  a  vessel  at  sea ;  the 
soundings  vary  from  5, 10,  to  15  fathoms.  From  the  last-named  bay  to  the  south  side  of  the 
large  open  bay  of  San  Sebastian  Viscaino,  moderately  elevated  land  meets  the  coast,  diversified 
occasionally  by  low,  rolling  sand-hills ;  mklway  between  Passaedo  Blanco  Bay  and  latitude 
28'  N.,  lies'  a  projecting  point  called  Lagoon  Head  ;  it  appears  like  an  island  when  seen  at  sea 
a  distance  of  15  miles  or  more :  from  this  point  southward  to  the  extreme  southern  limit  of 
San  Sebastian  Viscaino  Bay,  a  low  sandy  desert  country  presents  itself,  reaching  the  moun- 
tain-range of  the  interior,  a  distance  of  from  20  to  50  miles.  Immediately  at  the  shore  line,  low, 
drifting  sand-hills  predominate,  behind  which  lie  three  lagoons,  bearing  names  given  by 
whalemen,  as  follows :  Upper  Lagoon,  Black  Warrior  Lagoon,  and  Scammou's  Lagoon.  Upper 
Lagoon,  the  most  northern  of  tlie  three,  is  but  a  few  miles  in  extent,  and  has  a  narrow  en- 
trance, with  10  feet  of  water  on  the  bar  at  high  tide.  The  American  schooner  Elsie,  of  12  or 
15  tons,  is  the  only  vessel  known  to  have  dropped  anchor  in  it.  Black  Warrior  Lagoon 
is  said  to  be  15  miles  long,  varying  in  width  from  three  to  five  miles ;  it  is  fronted  by  a  sand- 
bar, as  is  invariably  the  case  with  all  the  lagoons  on  the  California  coast.  The  channel  is 
tortuous,  but  vessels  of  300  tons  have  ])assed  in,  drawing  13  feet,  the  depth  being  equal  to 
that  of  Scammon's  Lagoon  bar.  Several  vessels  resorted  to  Black  Warrior  Lagoon,  thinking 
the  whales  would  come  there  as  well  as  in  other  lagoons ;  but,  strange  as  it  may  appear,  it  was 
not  a  favorite  haunt,  and  I  believe  but  one  whale  has  ever  been  captured  there.  In  the  year 
1859  the  American  whaling-bark  Black  Warrior  was  lost  in  this  lagoon,  while  attempting 
to  tow  out :  this  disaster  gave  rise  to  the  name.  Scammon's  Lagoon  was  first  commercially 
known  in  1858  ;  the  passage  into  it  is  lined  by  continuous  breakers.  On  the  south  side,  form- 
ing a  curve  that  extends  four  miles  from  the  heads  of  the  harbor,  reaching  to  the  ]>artliat  has 
three  fathoms  depth  of  water  on  it  in  ordinary  tides,  detached  breakers  on  the  north  plainly 
mark  that  side  of  the  passage,  it  being  of  sufficient  width  to  afford  a  good  beating-channel  for 
a  vessel  of  300  tons,  drawing  12  feet.  The  brig  Boston,  with  the  schooner  Marin  as  tender, 
on  a  whaling,  seal,  and  sea-elephant  voyage,  were  the  first  vessels  that  traversed  this  hitiierto 
unknown  whaling-ground.  At  that  time  the  waters  were  alive  with  whales,  porpoises,  and  fish 
of  many  varieties  ;  turtle  and  seal  basked  upon  the  shores  of  low  islands  studding  the  lagoon  ; 
and  game  of  many  species  was  so  abundant  that  shoals  of  acres  in  extent,  left  bare  by  the 
receding  tide,  would  be  closely  covered  with  geese,  duck,  snipe,  and  other  species  of  sea-fowl 
that  are  found  along  the  coast.  The  surrounding  country  for  miles  from  its  shores  is  a  sandy 
desert,  of  decaying  trap  formation,  with  occasional  clusters  of  dwarf  shrubbery,  and  the  uni- 
versal cactus  and  prickly  pear,  struggling,  between  an  arid  climate  and  sterile  soil,  to  maintain 
existence. 

On  the  south  and  southwest  sides  arc  seen  high  and  boulder-like  peaks,  named  Sta.  Clara. 


124:  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

Bctwoen  them  and  the  sea  is  a  broken  range  that  separates  the  lagoon  from  St.  Bartolome  Bay ; 
from  the  bar  to  tlie  extreme  end  of  it  is  a  distance  of  35  miles,  varying  in  width  from  four  to 
12  miles.  A  good  channel  is  found  along  the  south  shore,  reaching  to  near  the  head,  where  is 
found  an  extensive  salt-field,  called  Ojo  Liebre.  From  the  northern  boundary  of  the  lagoon  to 
the  north  side  of  the  channel  it  is  much  cut  up  with  sand-shoals  and  low  islands,  the  latter 
being  the  breeding-places  of  seals  and  sea-fowls.  The  whales  found  in  the  lagoon  are  the 
species  known  as  the  California  Gray.  From  1858  to  1861,  many  whaling-vessels  i-esortcd 
thither  in  the  winter  months,  and  a  large  amount  of  oil  was  taken  during  that  time,  the 
aggregate  amounting  to  22,250  barrels;  valuing  the  oil  at  $15  per  barrel,  it  amounts  to 
$333, 750.  At  the  present  time,  however,  so  few  whales  are  found  there  that  it  has  been 
abandoned  as  a  whaling-ground  ;  the  decaying  carcasses  and  bleaching  bones  strewed  along 
the  shores  give  evidence  of  the  havoc  made  by  the  most  enterprising  and  energetic  class  of 
seamen  that  sail  under  our  national  flag.  The  salt-fields  of  Ojo  Lebre  are  capable  of  supply- 
ing an  almost  unlimited  quantity  of  excellent  salt.  Vessels  of  400  tons'  burden  can  find  good 
anchorage  within  five  miles  of  where  the  commodity  can  be  embarked  in  lighters  of  25  to  50 
tons'  capacity  ;  every  thing  for  man's  subsistence,  except  fish,  turtle,  and  sea-fowl,  must  come 
from  the  interior,  or  be  imported  by  sea.  The  nearest  fresh  water  is  seven  miles  distant,  and 
is  of  poor  quality.  A  year  or  two  after  the  whaling  commenced,  vessels  were  dispatched  from 
San  Francisco,  Upper  California,  for  cargoes  of  salt ;  the  first  two,  after  cruising  a  length  of 
time  off  the  desired  port,  returned  with  the  account  that  no  such  lagoon  existed,  or,  if  it  did, 
no  channel  could  be  found  to  get  into  it.  A  third  vessel  was  sent  with  a  master  determined  to 
cither  find  the  place  or  "  break  something ; "  he  lost  his  vessel  between  Black  Warrior  and  Upper 
Lagoon.  Subsequently  the  late  Captain  Collins,  of  San  Francisco,  a  gentleman  of  much  expe- 
rience, and  a  skilful  seaman,  obtaining  the  most  reliable  information  at  hand,  sailed  for  the 
place  that  seemed  to  baffle  the  efforts  of  his  predecessors  to  find.  In  due  time  he  arrived  at 
the  desired  haven,  without  difficulty  procured  a  cargo  of  salt,  and  returned  to  San  Francisco. 
These  voyages  were  followed  up  for  a  length  of  time,  but  the  low  price  of  the  article  com- 
pelled the  proprietors  to  abandon  the  trade.  A  series  of  disasters  seems  to  have  occurred  in 
the  vicinity  of  these  lagoons  somewhat  remarkable  when  considering  the  small  number  of 
vessels  frequenting  them,  and  the  uniform  good  weather  that  usually  prevails.  The  first  was 
the  British  whale-ship  Tower  Castle,  bound  from  the  Pacific  to  Europe,  wrecked  on  the 
south  side  of  the  mouth  of  Scammon's  Lagoon,  in  1836.  From  the  meagre  data  obtained,  it  is 
supposed  many  things  were  saved  from  the  ship.  The  crew  built  a  comfortable  house,  and 
were  well  provided  with  cooking-utensils,  etc.  An  oflScer,  with  a  part  of  the  men,  in  a  boat, 
improved  a  favorable  opportunity  to  leave  for  tlie  nearest  port  to  obtain  a  vessel  to  take  off 
their  companions  and  whatever  was  of  value  that  had  been  saved  of  either  ship  or  cargo,  but 
before  their  return  the  sujjply  of  fresh  water  became  exhausted,  none  could  be  found  by  dig- 
ging, and  a  fruitless  search  of  the  back  country  for  springs  or  standing  pools  in  the  ravines 
only  hastened  their  end.  On  the  return  of  their  comrades  to  rescue  them,  a  journal  kept  by 
the  officer  in  charge  revealed  the  sad  intelligence  that  one  after  another  had  died  from  thirst, 
and  the  last  writer  makes  mention  of  feeling  the  same  symptoms  as  the  others — "It  is  but 
reasonable  to  expect  that  my  time  will  come  soon" — this  seems  to  have  been  the  purport  of 
the  last  lines  penned  by  the  i-emaining  survivor  of  the  ill-fated  party. 

In  the  winter  of  1859  the  American  bark  Warrior,  Captain  Brown,  was  totally  lost  at  the 
mouth  of  the  lagoon  which  bears  the  name  as  before  mentioned.  No  lives  were  lost  by  this 
disaster.  Captain  I?,  had  a  small  schooner  for  a  tender  to  his  ship,  which  jiroved  doubly  valuable 
at  the  time.  A  number  of  vessels  were  lying  at  anchor  under  Lagoon  Head,  but  a  short  dis- 
tance off,  the  officers  and  crews  of  which  were  ready  to  give  any  assistance  required,  so  that  no 
suffering  occurred  by  this  mishap.  The  brig  Advance,  from  San  Francisco,  California,  bound 
to  Scammon's  Lagoon,  for  salt,  was  wrecked  between  Black  Warrior  and  Upper  Lagoon.  lu 
1861  the  ship  Speedwell  groinided  on  a  sunken  rock  when  at  anchor  in  the  lagoon,  and  sunk; 
she  was  sold  at  auction  as  she  lay,  purchased  by  the  masters  of  two  whaling-vessels,  who, 
with  their  ships'  companies,  raised  the  vessel,  temporarily  repaired  the  bottom,  and  sailed  for 
Honolulu,  where  she  was  again  sold. 

Following  along  the  south  shore  of  the  bay  of  San  Sebastian  Viscaino  to  the  westward, 
the  mainland  terminates  in  a  moderately  elevated  cape,  named  Ft.  St.  Eugenio,  thence  to  San 
Bartolome,  or  Bartholomew  Bay.  The  coast  makes  a  curve  that  is  named  Frenchman's  Bay, 
on  account  of  a  French  ship  being  wrecked  there  many  years  since.  St.  Bartolome  Bay  is  an 
excellent  harbor;  the  north  head,  accordiTig  to  o))servations  made  by  Sir  E.  Belcher,  R.  N.,  is 
in  latitude  27MO' N.,  longitude  114°  51' 20"  W.  The  anchoring-ground,  however,  to  be 
sheltered  from  all  winds,  is  not  large,  but  could  accommodate  three  or  four  vessels.  A  large 
number  may  anchor  (m  the  northern  sh.ore,  sheltered  from  all  winds,  except  from  the  south- 
west. The  face  of  the  country  here  is  high  and  broken,  abounding  in  many  varieties  of 
trap-rock.  The  boundary  of  the  bay  to  the  south  is  a  low  gravel  and  shingle  belt,  connecting 
the  high  ridge  that  forms  the  western  shore.  A  small  patch  of  low,  sandy  land,  intermixed 
with  broken  shells  and  rock,  lies  on  the  northeast  side  of  the  bay ;  and  immediately  back 
of  this,  again,  you  come  to  the  same  broken  country,  with  but  few  traces  of  vegetation. 

St.  Bartolome  is  the  Turtle  Bay  of  the  whalers,  and  formerly  was  much  frequented  by  the 
whalemen,  who  availed  themselves  of  this  fine  harbor  to  "  break  out  and  cooper  their  oil," 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNLV.  125 

refit  ship,  and  change  (ho  routine  of  the  wliale-sliip  hy  eatehiiij;  turtle  and  crawfish,  with 
whicli  the  waters  of  the  bay  swarmed.  Wood  may  be  had  iiere,  in  case  of  extreme  necessity, 
by  searching  for  small,  green  li.ishes,  in  the  low  land  about  the  eastern  shore;  the  roots  of 
this  bush  are  found  running  along  near  the  surl'aee  ol"  the  ground,  eight  or  ten  feet  long,  and 
often  six  inches  in  diameter;  it  burns  well,  and  produces  the  required  heat. 

At  the  time  sailing-vessels  were  plying  between  San  Francisco  and  Panama,  occasionally 
one  of  the  large  number  that  were  in  distress  for  the  necessary  articles  of  provision's,  put  into 
Port  St.  Bartolome,  as  laid  down  on  some  charts,  hoping  to  have  their  wants,  to  some  extent, 
relieved.  One  vessel  is  said  to  have  anchored  here  with  nearly  all  her  crew  down  with  the 
scurvy,  and  several  of  them  died.  Numbers  of  hapless  adventurers  have  found  a  final  rest- 
ing-place along  the  shores  of  the  inner  bay ;  and  on  an  islet  that  breaks  the  ocean  swell  in 
front  of  the  harbor,  are  found  grave-boards,  some  rudely  carved,  giving  the  date  of  interment, 
other  graves  only  marked  by  rough  head-stones.  Countless  numbers  of  birds  nightly  cover 
the  ground  above  them.  The  nearest  watering-place  to  this  bay  is  on  Cedros  Island,  which 
will  be  spoken  of  hereafter.  The  same  bold,  rough  coast  continues  to  the  southward,  as  far 
as  the  island  of  San  Roquc,  in  latitude  27'  1-1'  N.,  longitude  114°  28'  W. ;  from  thence  the 
coast  presents  a  more  inviting  appearance,  the  front-land  being  of  moderate  elevation,  and  in 
places  nearly  level,  or  gradually  ascending  toward  the  high  ranges  of  the  peninsula,  and  it.s 
green  appearance  gives  evidence  of  a  producing  soil.  This  description  of  country  extends 
along  the  coast  near  to  Point  Abreojos,  which  is  in  latitude  26°  42',  longitude  113'  42' W. ; 
then  again  occurs  a  sandy  coast,  behind  which  are  found  small  lagoons,  with  passages  into 
them  from  the  sea,  that  will  only  admit  the  smallest  craft,  or  ordinary  open  boats,  in  very 
smooth  weather  at  high  tide ;  the  shore  line  at  this  point  makes  a  sharp  turn,  runniffg  to  the 
northeast,  a  distance  of  28  miles,  then  turns  abruptly  again  to  the  southeast,  forming  the 
open  bay  of  Ballenas.  The  soundings  of  this  bay  are  quite  regular,  reaching  a  long  way  off 
shore,  gradually  decreasing  to  three  fathoms  within  a  mile  of  the  beach  ;  with  the  strong  coast 
winds  a  heavy  swell  sets  in,  that  causes  a  high  surf  along  its  shores.  Whales  of  the  humpback 
species  formerly  made  this  a  fiivorite  feeding-ground  on  account  of  myriads  of  small  fish  being 
found  there.  In  fine  weather  countless  numbers  of  pelican  were  seen  making  awkward 
plunges  to  catch  their  swimming  food. 

Off  Point  Abreojos,  an  outlying  reef  of  rocks  extends  six  miles.  Abreojos,  or  "  Opcn-your- 
eye  Point,"  seems  a  fitting  name  lor  it ;  there  is  a  passage  between  the  reef  and  the  main, 
that  may  be  used  in  case  of  necessity. 

In  latitude  26°  40'  N.,  longitude  113°  15'  W.,  Ballenas  Lagoon  connects  itself  with  the 
sea.  It  was  seen  by  Captain  Pool,  of  the  whaling-bark  Sarah  Warren,  in  1858.  He  ex- 
amined the  mouth  of  it  in  hopes  of  finding  a  safe  passage  in,  but  at  that  time  did  not  suc- 
ceed. In  the  summer  of  1859  he  again  visited  it,  in  company  with  another  vessel.  At  this 
time  a  passage  was  found  which  was  deemed  practicable  for  a  vessel  drawing  12  feet  water. 
The  passage  is  very  narrow,  not  more  than  half  a  cable's  length  in  width  ;  Ijut  at  tliis  partic- 
ular place  a  strong  land-breeze  blows  in  the  morning,  and  the  same  may  be  said  of  the  sea- 
breeze  that  comes  from  the  opposite  direction  in  the  afternoon.  The  regularity  of  these  winds 
throughout  the  year  is  surprising,  when  it  is  well  known  that  no  dependence  can  be  placed  in 
the  land-breeze  at  any  other  point  along  the  whole  coast ;  and  were  it  not  for  the  certainty  of 
these  winds  the  passage  into  this  lagoon  would  not  be  practicalile  for  sailing-vessels.  The 
following  December  the  Sarah  Warren,  v/ith  the  schooner  Nevada  as  tender,  and  the  barks 
Ocean  Bird  and  Carib,  with  schooners  A.  M.  Simpson  and  Kate,  anchored  otf  the  lagoon.  The 
Kate  was  the  first  to  pass  the  bar,  and  was  probably  the  first  vessel  that  ever  sailed  in  those 
waters.  In  a  few  days  the  whole  fleet,  having  a  favorable  chance,  also  passed  the  bar,  and  en- 
tered the  unexplored  waters  in  safety.  The  main  branch  of  the  lagoon  is  two  miles  wide  at 
the  mouth,  running  northerly  about  three  miles,  then  turns  westerly,  increasing  in  widjh  to 
four  miles,  terminating  14  to  18  miles  from  the  bar.  A  small  branch,  making  from  the  south 
side  of  the  entrance,  and  taking  a  more  easterly  course,  runs  through  a  lowcountry,  a  distance 
of  12  or  15  miles,  where  it  reaches  a  high  table-land.  Another  small  estero,  15  miles  farther 
south,  emptying  into  the  sea,  joins  the  southern  branch  of  the  main  lagoon.  Near  the  head 
of  this  fine  sheet  of  water  are  two  low  islands,  each  not  over  two  miles  long  and  less  than  one 
broad.  The  upper  one,  on  its  highest  elevation,  has  a  growth  of  green  bushes,  which  aflbrds 
a  pleasant  contrast  with  the  surrounding  country  ;  the  southern  one  is  quite  barren.  Flocks 
of  gray  gulls  literally  covered  its  shell  beaches ;  pelicans  and  cormorants  filled  the  air  and 
surrounding  waters ;  hawks  were  building  their  high  nests  of  dry  sticks  ;  around  the  shores 
huge  turtle  in  large  numbers  lay  sleeping,  and  shoals  (if  cow-fish  and  porpoise  played  their 
undulating  gambols.     All  gave  evidence  of  its  being  unfrequented  by  any  human  being. 

The  fleet  of  vessels  that  had  arrived  came  for  the  purpose  of  whaling.  AI)out  the  1st  of 
January  the  whales  (California  grays)  came  in  in  large  numbers,  and  the  whaling  commenced 
with  the  most  flattering  prospects.  Soon  alter,  several  large  vessels  appeared  off  the  bar,  but 
of  too  heavy  a  draught  to  warrant  them  getting  in  safely,  llowever,  one  captain,  who  did  not 
fancy  looking  on  to  see  others  "  filling  their  ships,"  decided  to  take  the  chnnm;.  The  ship 
was  lightened,  and  every  precaution  taken  to  prevent  accident,  but  when  the  attempt  was 
made  to  get  over  the  bar  the  vessel  grounded,  and  remained  ibr  several  days  thumping  at  high 
tide,  and  changing  from  side  to  side  of  the  narrow  jiassage,  getting  a  little  farther  in  occa- 


126  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AXD 

sionally ;  finally  a  high  tide  and  strong  sea-breeze  took  her  inside,  and  the  good  old  ship  was 
once  more  afloat,  but  with  rudder-pintles  gone  and  the  ship  so  strained  as  to  leak  badly.  At 
all  events  the  ship  was  in,  and  the  captain  declared  he  would  make  the  most  of  the  whaling, 
and  made  every  effort  to  carry  his  resolve  into  effect.  This  addition  to  the  fleet  already  ar- 
rived, and  another  ship  outside,  which  "  mated  "  (as  it  is  termed)  with  the  one  last  arrived, 
swelled  the  number  to  five  large  vessels  with  three  tenders;  in  all  eight  vessels,  manning  19 
boats.  Tlie  aggregate  of  oil  taken  was  3,500  barrels.  The  following  year  4,700  barrels  were 
taken  by  four  ships  and  a  small  shore  party,  making  in  two  seasons  (which  may  be  set  down 
as  commencing  on  the  1st  of  January,  and  ending  the  10th  of  April  of  each  year)  8,200  barrels, 
valued  at  §123,000 ;  but  this  limited  whaling-ground  very  soon  gave  out,  and  the  quantity  of 
oil  taken  the  succeeding  seasons  has  been  comparatively  small,  and  the  place  is  no  longer 
regarded  as  valuable  for  that  purpose. 

FACE     OF     THE     COUNTRY. 

The  face  of  the  country,  immediately  in  the  vicinity  of  this  inland  water,  on  either  hand  is 
nearly  level  and  extremely  barren.  A  few  stunted  mesquit-trees  are  now  and  again  met 
with,  and  a  species  of  rush-grass  grows  in  many  places,  but  so  scattered  that  no  evidence  of 
any  thing  but  a  sandy  plain,  or  low  marsh,  is  met  with  about  the  shores.  To  the  southwest 
rises  a  long  table-land,  to  the  height  of  a  thousand  feet.  In  going  from  the  lagoon  to  the  foot 
of  this  table-land  and  near  to  it,  we  passed  through  what  might  almost  be  termed  a  forest  of 
the  largest  species  of  cactus,  some  of  them  reaching  the  height  of  40  to  50  feet.  On  as- 
cendingto  the  top  of  the  table,  there  is  nothing  to  be  seen  inland  but  a  wild  mountainous 
country,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  with  here  and  there  a  green  gulch  or  slope  of  limited  ex- 
tent. To  the  northeast  there  appears  to  be  a  belt  of  comparatively  level  land  that  extends 
across  the  peninsula  to  the  Gulf  of  California.  To  the  northwest  there  is  another  tract  of 
barren  waste,  nnining  between  high  broken  land.  An  old  native,  who  appeared  to  have  a 
knowledge  of  the  country,  stated  that  along  this  was  a  trail  leading  to  the  salt  deposits  of  Ojo 
Lebre,  the  distance  being  TO  miles.  The  coast,  from  Ballenas  Lagoon  southward  to  Cape  St. 
Lazarus,  is  of  the  same  general  character  as  already  described.  From  Ballenas  a  low,  sterile 
foreground  divides  the  interior  elevations  of  the  peninsula  from  the  sea,  as  far  south  as  Cape 
St.  Lazarus.  A  high  promontory,  latitude  24°  48'  20"  N.,  longitude  112°  16'  28'  W., 
may  be  seen  at  sea  50  miles.  Then  comes  the  open  bay  of  St.  Maria.  To  the  eastward  a 
narrow  elevation,  nine  miles  in  length,  forms  the  west  head  of  Magdalena  Bay.  The  entrance 
is  three  miles  wide.  Margarita  Island  is  a  cluster  of  rocky  peaks  and  slopes,  extending  east 
and  west  36  miles  ;  the  western  end  forming  the  eastern  head  of  the  Gulf  of  Magdalena,  as 
termed  by  Sir  E.  Belcher,  R.  X.,  who  explored  the  coast  in  1839.  The  eastern  point  of  the 
island  reaches  Lee  Passage,  a  shallow  outlet  to  Lee  Bay.  Then  again  a  moderately  elevated 
coast  is  met  with,  increasing  in  height  and  abruptness,  till  it  tcrmhiates  at  Cape  St.  Lucas. 

MAGDALENA     BAT    AND     LAGOONS. 

Magdalena  Bay  is  probably  more  generally  known  than  any  other  on  the  Lower  California 
coast,  and  by  many  regarded  not  only  as  a  spacious  and  safe  harbor  that  might  shelter  the 
navies  of  the  world,  but  the  adjacent  country  toward  the  gulf  is  generally  capable  of  produ- 
cing abundantly,  if  properly  cultivated,  and  there  are  other  tracts  valuable  for  grazing.  The  fol- 
lowing is  based  upon  information  obtained  from  the  most  reliable  sources  and  personal  observa- 
tion :  The  bay  is  40  miles  long,  greatest  breadth  15  miles  ;  points  making  from  Margarita  Island 
and  the  mainland  divide  this  grand  sheet  of  water  into  two  bays,  named  by  the  whalemen 
Weather  and  Lee  Bays;  the  former  being  the  western  and  larger  of  the  two,  with  channel 
depths  from  3  to  18  fathoms.  The  northwestern  part  of  Weather  Bay  has  a  number  of  nar- 
row channels,  two  of  wliich  form  a  junction  with  the  mouth  of  a  lagoon,  varying  in  width  from 
a  few  hundred  yards  to  two  miles  ;  that  follows  the  general  trend  of  the  coast  northward,  ter- 
minating near  port  St.  Domingo,  in  latitude  26^  N.  Its  extreme  length  cannot  be  less  than 
20  leagues;  a  narrow  strip  of  land  separates  it  from  the  sea,  with  three  passages  through  it 
where  whales  pass  in  and  out,  but  not  navigable  even  for  the  smallest-class  vessels.  Between 
the  bay  and  the  first  passage  a  shoal  makes  where  the  tides  meet,  one  current  running  from 
tlic  passage  opposing  that  from  the  bay.  This  shoal  is  called  the  First  Divide  ;  a  similar  one 
is  formed  between  tlie  first  and  second  passage,  called  the  Second  Divide.  It  is  seldom  whales 
go  over  these  shoals;  in  fact,  only  one  instance  ever  has  been  known,  and  that  was  in  order 
to  escape  the  deadly  harpoon.  When  viewing  these  shoals  at  low  water,  no  one  would  im- 
agine a  vessel  of  200  to  300  tons  could  ever  get  over  into  the  deep  water  between  the  divides ; 
but  the  whaleman,  after  contending  with  the  stormy  elements  and  drifting  ice  of  the  Arctic 
Ocean,  plies  his  ship  toward  the  tropics  to  pass  the  winter  months,  seeking  his  source  of 
wealth  in  a  more  temperate  clime,  with  all  the  determined  energy  and  tact  characteristic  of 
his  calling.  He  now  finds  the  object  of  pursuit  not  in  the  fathomless  blue  water,  but  hud- 
dled together  in  narrow  estcros,  the  banks  on  either  hand  lined  with  the  evergreen  mangrove. 
Frequently  the  hollow  sound  of  the  spouting  whale  is  heard  through  the  trees,  and  the  vapor 
ascending  is  seen  above  them ;  the  vessel  is  lightened  in  every  possible  way,  and  by  dint  of 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  127 

running  out  anchors,  heavintr,  liaulinfr,  j^roundini;,  and  listinj;,  tlie  ships  cross  the  divides,  and 
the  whaling  is  puvrsncd  as  thoiigii  no  unusual  diflicnilties  had  been  overcome,  or  none  were  to  be 
again  contended  with  to  reaidi  the  open  sea.  Whaling-vessels  have  ascended  the  lagoon  40 
miles  from  its  mouth,  and  then  would  not  be  three  miles  Crom  the  sea-shore.  Numerous 
small  lagoons,  with  a  growth  of  mangrove  on  tlie  banks,  are  scattered  along  the  northern  side 
of  both  Weather  and  Lee  Bays;  their  entrances  are  usually  sliallow,  making  it  frequently  dif- 
iieult  for  boat  navigation  Lee  Ray  is  about  12  miles  in  extent,  east  and  west.  A  body  of 
water  makes  inland  from  the  north  shore,  called  the  "mud-hole,"  which  was  formerly  the 
f.ivorite  place  of  resort  of  whales  coming  into  the  bay,  and  usually  there  were  more  ships  in 
this  bay  during  the  whaling  season  than  in  the  Weather  one.  An  outlet  to  this  l)ay  runs 
along  the  east  end  of  Margarita  Island,  but  too  shoal  and  intricate  for  any  thing  but  boat  nav- 
igation. A  lagoon  makes  from  near  this  passage  to  the  eastward,  a  few  miles  in  extent ;  its 
approaches  are  dillieult,  and  have  only  been  resorted  to  occasionally  by  boats  from  whaling- 
vessels.  JIangrove  Island  is  low,  formed  of  sand  and  mud,  and  in  many  places  covered  with. 
a  thick  growth  of  mangrove-trees.  A  long,  narrow,  sandy  point  making  from  the  east  side  of 
Weather  Bay,  running  to  the  south,  forming  the  north  head  of  the  passage  between  the  two 
bays,  has  passed  under  a  variety  of  names,  the  last  being  Lagoon  Point.  The  only  fresh 
water  to  be  found  about  the  extensive  shores  of  the  whole  Magdalena  Bay,  or  Gulf,  as  it  may 
be  termed,  is  found  by  digging  in  the  sand,  on  the  shore  of  Lagoon  Point,  next  to  Mangrove 
Island.  The  usual  process  of  obtaining  water  is  to  take  both  heads  out  of  a  cask,  then  place 
it  on  the  beach  where  the  water  is  found  ;  work  the  cask  down  through  the  loose  sand,  and 
removing  that  on  the  inside  of  the  casks,  till  sufficient  depth  is  reached  for  the  water  to  ooze 
in,  and  convenient  for  bailing.  The  water,  when  first  brought  on  board  ship,  had  a  white  or 
milky  appearance,  but  after  settling  for  a  few  days  and  pumped  off,  seemed  quite  clear  and 
drinkable.  It  is  said  water  may  be  procured  in  the  same  way  along  the  sandy  belt  that  sepa- 
rates St.  Maria  Bay  from  Magdalena  ;  but  in  1846  search  was  made  to  find  it,  yet  without 
success.  Two  places  are  marked  on  the  late  charts  where  fresh  water  is  to  be  found  on  the 
west  side  of  the  main  passage  into  the  bay.  Frequent  search  has  been  made  along  the  shore 
by  the  officers  and  men  who  have  sailed  with  me,  but  they  were  never  fortunate  enough  to  find 
even  the  smallest  spring  of  fresh  water  ;  and  it  is  not  possible  for  water,  in  any  great  quantity, 
to  be  visible  there  without  being  easily  found.  There  is  said  to  be  quite  good  water,  where 
vessels  have  obtained  a  supply,  up  the  north  lagoon,  about  25  miles  from  Cape  St.  Lazarus. 

Appearance  of  the  CoHntri/  around  Maeidalena. — On  the  south,  the  broken  ridges  of  moun- 
tains that  separate  the  bay  from  the  ocean  give  sliglit  indication  of  any  thing  like  verdure 
about  them  ;  to  the  east  and  west  the  bay  is  principally  bounded  by  low,  sandy  belts,  that 
have  been  before  spoken  of.  On  the  north  a  low  country  spreads  out  a  considerable  distance 
iidand,  on  some  portions  of  which  the  tall  cactuses  seen  from  the  waters  impress  one  with  their 
likeness  to  scattered  trunks  of  forest-trees ;  several  small  lagoons  wind  a  short  distance  tow- 
ard tlie  interior  or  along  the  shore,  their  l)anks  generally  covered  witli  a  thick  growth  of  man- 
grove ;  between  these  lagoons  level  land  is  found  in  some  places,  producing  a  thick  grow'th  of 
high  grass,  others  again  quite  barren.  Taking  a  general  view  of  the  surroundings  of  the  bay, 
there  is  but  little  to  induce  the  emigrant  to  settle  there.  The  resources  may  be  summed  up 
as  follows  :  the  bay  and  lagoons  emptying  into  it  abound  in  many  varieties  of  fish  ;  among  the 
different  species  of  bivalves,  oysters  are  found  in  abundance  that  grow  to  the  trunks  of  the 
mangrove-trees,  where  the  tide-water  comes  to  them.  Clams  and  muscles,  of  several  largo 
kinds,  are  found  on  the  flats.  Game  on  the  northern  shore  is  plentiful.  Vast  numbers  of 
whales  formerly  were  found  here  during  the  winter  months,  and  a  numerous  fleet  annually 
came  for  the  purpose  of  whaling.  The  bay  offered  them  a  safe  harbor,  and  the  growth  of 
mangrove  in  the  lagoons  gave  them  a  convenient  and  unlimited  supply  of  wood  ;  but  good 
water  to  keep  at  sea  is  hardly  to  be  found,  and  it  was  very  seldom  that  ships  watered  here. 
During  the  time  the  whaling-fleet  lay  here,  rancheros  and  others  from  different  jilaces  came 
to  trade,  bringing  cattle,  leather,  raw  hides,  soap,  cheese,  figs,  oranges,  dates,  pearls,  shells, 
and,  in  some  instances,  silver  articles  of  native  manufacture,  which  were  exchanged  for  ready- 
made  clothing,  tobaco»,  heavy  cotton  cloths,  calicoes,  and  some  few  articles  of  cutlery. 
There  being  no  officer  of  the  customs  in  the  vicinity,  traders  from  the  missions  occasionally 
made  their  appcai>ance  with  ready  money  and  purchased.  It  was  not  unusual  for  the  inhal)it- 
ants  to  come  40  or  50  miles  to  exchange  a  few  arrobas  of  fruit  for  necessary  articles  of  family 
use.  No  exports  of  the  scanty  products  of  the  country  are  made  from  the  bay,  and  where 
thousands  of  barrels  of  oil  were  taken  annually,  now  only  a  few  hundred  are  obtained.  An 
approximate  calculation  gives  the  quantity  of  oil  taken  from  1856  to  1861,  34,425  barrels;  at  J 
§15  per  barrel,  it  amounts  to  §.">! 6,-375.  / 

The  climate,  although  dry,  is  pleasant ;  the  bay,  as  a  place  of  shelter,  is  spacious  and  safe, ' 
and,  to  obtain  a  supply  of  wood  or  water,  in  cane  of  great  distress,  might  be  recommended  ;  but 
of  the  latter  most  needful  article  on  shipl)oard,  I  would  remark  tliat,  although  a  supply  can 
be  had  as  before  stated,  still  it  is  not  so  easily  to  be  found  as  would  appear  by  a  glance  at  the 
chart,  and  the  shifting  sands  would  soon  obliterate  all  traces  of  a  former  watering-party  should 
they  have  removed  the  cask  used  to  form  the  well. 


128  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

ISLANDS   OFF   THE   WEST   COAST   OF   LOWER   CALIFORNLA.. 

The  number  of  islands  on  the  west  coast  of  Lower  California  are  15,  viz.: — Los 
Coronados  (two) ;  St.  Martin ;  St.  Gerouimo ;  Guadalupe  ;  Cedros,  or  Cerros ;  St.  Bonitas 
(three) ;  Natividad ;  St.  Rotige  ;  Asuncion ;  Santa  Margarita  ;  Elide  ;  Chester's ;  Maria. 

Los  Coronados  are  merely  two  barren  rocks  of  trap  formation,  situated  in  latitude  32'  2-1' 
to  32°  26'  N.,  and  six  miles  from  the  coast  line ;  several  smaller  ones  are  scattered  between 
the  two  largest ;  .anchorage  can  be  found  on  the  southeast  side  of  the  most  southern  one, 
which  is  the  largest,  and  is  a  mile  in  extent. 

St.  Martin:  this  island  lies  in  latitude  30°  20'  N.,  and  longitude  116°  121'  W. 
it  is  of  moderate  height,  and  in  extent  12  miles  long  and  2  wide,  with  anchorage -on  its 
south  and  southeast  sides  in  depth  of  12  to  18  fathoms.  A  little  lagoon  is  found  on  its 
southern  side  (which  is  quite  low),  where  the  seal  used  to  resort  in  large  numbers ;  it  is  quite 
barren,  producing  nothing  approaching  to  vegetation,  except  the  prickly  pear,  and  shrubs  or 
herbage  that  grow  in  a  scanty  soil,  among  broken  rocks,  in  a  dry  climate.  St.  Geronimo  is 
of  moderate  elevation ;  like  St.  Martin,  is  long,  and  about  the  same  in  width,  and  extremely 
barren ;  the  sea-otter  hunters  called  it  Round  Island ;  its  position  is  doubtful,  some  observations 
placing  it  25  miles  farther  to  the  south  than  others  ;  in  fact  the  whole  coast,  as  laid  down  on 
the  general  coast  chart  in  use  at  the  present  time,  is  much  in  error,  from  latitude  28°  N.  to 
the  northward  as  far  as  latitude  32°.  St.  Geronimo  affords  a  good  shelter,  on  its  northeast 
side,  from  northwesterly  winds,  a  convenient  distance  from  the  shore.  The  distance  from  the 
mainland  is  three  miles.  A  reef  lies  between  the  island  and  the  shore,  where  the  sea  breaks 
heavily  in  rough  weather.  There  is  a  good  passage,  however,  between  the  reef  and  the  island, 
and  when  the  sea  is  smooth  the  thick  kelp  marks  the  shoalest  places.  Rocks  awash,  or  just 
above  water,  form  a  line  of  breakers  from  the  island  a  mile  or  two  to  the  southward.  Vessels 
of  oi'dinary  draught  may  pass  between  it  and  the  main. 

Guadalupe  Island  is  a  high  elevation  of  land  running  nearly  north  and  south,  in  extent 
about  15  miles.  There  is  no  safe  anchorage  around  it,  the  shores  being  bold,  and  its  banks 
generally  high  and  precipitous.  The  highest  land,  which  is  near  the  northern  extremity,  is  not 
less  than  3,400  feet  above  the  sea,  with  a  growth  of  pines  or  cedros  upon  it  similar  to  Cedros 
Island.  On  landing,  the  island  does  not  present  that  parched  appearance  as  those  nearer  the 
coast,  still  vegetation  is  by  no  means  abundant ;  fresh  water  is  found  here,  and  goats  in  large 
numbers  find  sustenance  among  the  ravines.  Fur-seal  and  sea-elephant  once  made  the 
shores  a  favorite  resorting-plaee.  Two  small  islets  lie  oft'its  south  end ;  both  are  quite  barren. 
Some  persons  of  state  are  said  to  have  been  banished  here  from  Mexico.  A  vessel  passed 
near  the  island  several  years  since,  the  crew  of  which  discovered  a  signal,  and  the  captain 
landed ;  to  his  surprise,  he  found  six  or  eight  Mexicans,  men,  women  and  children,  who  im- 
plored him  to  take  them  on  board,  which  request  he  granted,  and  landed  them  on  the  coast ; 
for  this  act  of  kindness  he  received  the  sincere  thanks  of  the  party,  it  being  all  that  they 
could  give,  being  in  abject  poverty,  their  scanty  clothing  having  been  made  from  goat-skins, 
^he  personal  effects  of  the  party  consisted  of  the  garments  they  stood  in,  a  few  earthen  dishes, 
two  or  three  flint-lock  muskets,  a  rusty  cavalry-sword,  and  a  handful  of  cotton  fabrics,  much 
the  worse  for  wear. 

Elide  Island  is  in  latitude  28°  29'  N.,  longitude  114°  25'  W.,  a  naked  rock,  one  mile  in 
circumference.  A  few  years  ago  it  was  covered  with  guano.  From  1857  till  the  supply  was 
exhausted,  about  28,000  tons  were  shipped  from  this  place.  It  is  close  to  the  coast,  and  the 
natives  come  with  their  produce  to  sell  to  the  parties  working  on  the  island,  and  to  the  ships  Ij-- 
ing  there.  The  articles  of  trade  were  dried  figs,  orange.-^,  and  cattle,  which  were  brought  from 
the  missions  of  St.  Borja  and  Gertrudes,  distant  36  miles.  The  nearest  fresh  water  from 
Elide  is  seven  miles  to  the  eastward,  on  the  mainland.  Chester's  Island  is  a  mere  islet,  lying 
close  to  the  north  side  of  Point  St.  Eugenio,  and  has  only  been  brought  to  notice  on  account 
of  a  guano  deposit  that  was  taken  from  it  several  years  ago  by  an  American  sea-captain, 
whoso  name  the  island  has  since  borne. 

Cedros  Island  bounds  the  west  side  of  San  Sebastian  Viscaino  B^',  its  south  point  is  in 
latitude  28 '  03'  N.,  longitude  115°  25'  W. ;  it  is  an  island  of  mountains,  nearly  its  whole  ex- 
tent being  a  mass  of  high  abrupt  peaks,  the  highest  being  2,500  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  and  may  be  seen  in  clear  weather  a  distance  of  60  miles.  On  near  approach  its  sombre 
and  barren  appearance  is  any  thing  but  inviting.  5Iany  of  the  southern  sloi)es  present  a  dark- 
red  hue,  interspersed  with  high  variegated  clilis  that  give  a  little  change  to  the  otherwise  dull 
scene.  On  landing,  one  is  sensible  of  the  extremely  dry  atmosphere  prevailing;  there  must 
be,  however,  occasionally  heavy  rains  producing  mountain  torrents,  which  have  cut  their  way 
through  the  sand  and  gravel  bottoms  that  skirt  the  southern  bases,  but  they  are  of  rare  occur- 
rence, those  best  acquainted,  who  have  been  living  there  or  along  the  coast  for  nearly  the  last 
five  years,  have  never  known  it  to  be  visited  by  any  other  than  light  showers,  and  those  at 
long  iutervals  apart.  On  the  northeast  side,  about  three  miles  from  the  extreme  north  end,  a 
low,  sandy  point  makes  out ;  to  the  south  of  this  there  is  good  anchorage  during  the  prevailing 
coast-winds.  In  a  gulch  near  by  is  a  small  stream  of  fresh  water,  and  likewise  in  several  of 
the  valleys  leading  from  the  shore  to  the  southward  water  may  be  found  within  a  mile  or  two 
of  the  beach.     At  one  of  these  places  it  is  of  excellent  quality.     The  only  practical  place, 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNLV.  129 

iiowcwr,  for  a  vessel  to  obtain  a  supply,  is  on  the  southeast  side,  where  is  found  a  sprinj; 
runninjr  through  rushes  at  the  foot  of  a  high  peak  close  to  the  shore.  The  casks  are  filled 
by  placing  them  within  a  few  feet  of  tlic  stream,  and  conducting  tlie  water  into  them  by  means 
of  a  wooden  spout,  on  tlie  side  of  which  were  the  words,  "  Wlioevcr  uses  this  will  please  put 
it  in  its  proper  place,  for  the  benetit  of  those  who  may  come  for  water."  Anchorage  may  be  had 
oft'  this  spring  within  two  cables  of  the  shore  in  20  fatiioms  water,  but  a  much  better  place 
for  a  large  vessel  to  lie  is  two  miles  farther  south,  off  a  low  shingle  beach,  where  it  is  not  so 
deep,  and  the  gusts  that  come  down  the  mountain  when  the  wind  is  west  are  not  so  heavy  as 
at  the  other  anchorage.  A  vessel  can  always  find  shelter  from  the  northwest  winds  on  the 
south  side  of  the  island,  the  dejith  varying  from  6  to  20  fathoms,  and  these  winds  blow  with 
the  regularity  of  a  "  trade  "  from  May  to  October,  and  the  only  precaution  to  be  kept  in  mind 
in  choosing  an  anchorage,  is  to  avoid  fixed  kelp.  From  October  to  May,  much  of  the  time 
the  winds  are  light  and  the  weather  delightful.  Occasionally  a  strong  norther,  or  a  light 
southeaster  or  southwest  gale  blows  the  first  part  of  the  winter,  and  strong  gales  from  the 
northwest  again  set  in  about  the  1st  of  May. 

PRODUCTIONS     OF     THE     ISLAND. 

There  are  several  species  of  small  trees  scattered  about  the  lower  portions  of  the  island, 
as  well  as  clusters  of  tall  pines  or  ccdros  on  the  high  ridges  of  the  north  end,  which  may  have 
suggested  the  name  cedros.  Among  the  dwarf  species  is  one  called  by  the  whalers  "  tama- 
ariud-tree,"  from  its  bearing  fruit  similar  in  taste  to  the  real  fruit  of  that  name.  An  ever- 
green is  found  which  produces  a  nut,  shaped  largest  in  the  middle,  tapering  to  both  ends, 
about  an  inch  in  length.  If  eaten  to  the  number  of  sis  or  eight,  it  will  produce  headache  and 
vomiting.  The  most  peculiar  tree  found  is  the  "  tay-tay  "  so  called ;  it  appears  swelled  out  of 
all  natural  proportions,  and  is  of  a  light  spongy  nature.  When  an  incision  is  made  through 
the  bark,  a  milky  gum  exudes  freely ;  this  gum,  mixed  with  the  tallow  of  the  native  goat,  seems 
to  have  been  a  sovereign  remedy  with  the  former  frequenters  here,  for  cuts,  burns,  etc.  Goats 
and  deer,  in  small  numbers,  are  found,  that  feed  chiefly  on  the  tender  twigs  of  the  tay-tay, 
and  the  protruding  roots  of  the  cactus.  The  flesh  of  the  latter  is  invariably  tender  and  fine- 
flavored,  while  that  of  the  former  is  all  seasons  tough  and  unpalatable.  The  climate,  or  what 
they  feed  on,  perhaps  both,  prevent  them  from  being  strong  and  active,  as  is  their  real  nature 
to  be.     Sailors  when  on  shore  run  them  down,  and  frequently  catch  them  in  that  way. 

SE-\LS     AND     SEA  ELEPHANTS. 

Seals  and  sea-elephants  once  basked  upon  the  shores  of  this  isolated  spot  in  vast  numbers, 
and  in  years  past  its  surrounding  shores  teemed  with  sealers,  sea-elephant,  and  sea-otter 
hunters  ;  the  remains  of  their  rude  stone-houses  are  still  to  be  seen  in  many  convenient  places, 
which  were  once  the  habitations  of  these  hardy  men  ;  one  of  these  houses  found  on  the  west 
side  is  of  large  dimensions,  a  rough  measurement  tnaking  it  40  feet  square.  The  sea-elephants, 
amphibious  animals,  at  particular  seasons  of  the  year  come  on  shore  to  shed  their  coats, 
and  bring  forth  their  young,  and  in  various  numbers  lie  promiscuously  along  the  beach,  gr 
up  the  ravines  near  by  ;  they  are  gregarious,  and  when  not  disturbed  will  congregate  in  "  rook- 
eries "  of  hundreds.  None  but  the  full-aged  males  have  the  proboscis  ;  some  of  them  are  truly 
enormous  creatures,  being  from  12  to  20  feet  long,  and  otherwise  of  proportionate  size  with 
the  common  seal,  which  in  form  nearly  resembles  the  same.  The  female  is  about  half  the 
size  of  the  male ;  before  shedding  their  coats,  both  the  male  and  female  are  of  a  yellowish 
brown,  but  after  the  old  coat  falls  off  they  become  the  color  of  the  land-elephant,  and  con- 
tinue so  for  four  or  five  months,  then  gradually  change  to  the  former  color  again.  A  singular 
fact  connected  with  these  animals  is,  that  they  have  never  been  found  north  of  the  equator, 
except  on  the  islands  and  coast  of  California,  their  chief  haunts  being  in  the  high  southern 
latitudes.  WTien  on  land  they  are  naturally  clumsy  in  their  movements,  but  at  times  in  their 
own  defence  exhibit  more  agility  than  one  would  think  them  caimble  of.  On  first  coming  to 
their  favorite  landings,  a  gently  rising  sandy  or  pebbly  beach,  they  are  very  fit,  the  largest 
making  from  four  to  six  barrels  of  oil,  but  after  "  shedding  "  they  becomes  so  poor  by  the  time 
they  return  to  the  water  again  that  they  would  not  yield  more  than  half  that  quantity.  The 
usual  manner  of  taking  them  is  for  a  party  of  men,  in  one  or  more  boats,  armed  with  clubs, 
lances,  and  rifles,  to  land  in  front  or  near  the  rookery  while  they  are  asleep.  Then  stationing 
themselves  between  the  animals  and  the  water,  with  one  simultaneous  rush,  with  weapon  in 
hand,  the  work  of  slaughter  commences.  What  seems  strange  to  those  unacquainted,  they 
all  move  in  a  body  up  the  beach  away  from  the  water,  where  they  may  be  captured  at  pleas- 
ure. Now  and  then  some  overgrown  male,  that  may  have  escaped  from  some  former  attack, 
will  stand  his  ground  ;  a  ball  from  a  rifle  through  his  brain  dispatches  him  at  once,  and  all 
rush  on  again  to  share  the  sport  together.  The  quantity  of  blood  in  the  elephant  is  surpris- 
ing ;  it  is  supposed  to  be  fully  double  in  proportion  to  that  of  a  bullock.  They  are  taken 
for  their  oil,  which  is  of  good  quality,  and  next  to  sperm  for  lubricating  purposes. 

THE    SEA-LION    AND    SEAL. 

The  sea-lion,  also  amphibious,  is  nothing  more  than  the  full-grown  male  hair-seal,  its  length 
being  eight  or  nine  feet,  otherwise  of  proportionate  size  compared  with  the  sea-elephant.     The 
9 


130  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

female  is  called  a  "  clap-match ;"  the  "  flippers  "  of  the  lion,  which  take  the  place  of  legs,  are 
longer,  and  the  animal  on  land  or  in  water  is  more  active,  than  the  elephant  Those  found  on  the 
coast  of  California  are  of  a  dark-brown  color,  and  are  destitute  of  the  mane  which  this 
species  have  that  inhabit  a  high  southern  latitude.  The  food  of  the  seal  is  principally  fish, 
but  occasionally  birds  ;  this  is  the  case  with  the  lion  particularly.  The  manner  in  which  they 
decoy  and  catch  the  white  and  gray  gulls  exhibits  a  high  order  of  instinct ;  when  in  pursuit  of 
these  birds  the  seal  dives  deep  under  water,  swims  a  short  distance  from  where  it  disappeared, 
then  rises  slowly  again,  just  showing  the  tip  of  its  nose  above  the  surface,  giving  it  a  rotary 
motion,  as  often  we  see  a  kind  of  water-bug  at  play.  The  unwary  bird  on  the  wing  seeing 
the  object  alights  near  by  to  catch  it ;  at  that  moment  the  animal  again  settles,  and,  at  one 
bound,  with  extended  jaws,  seizes  its  prey. 

The  fur-seal  in  form  and  habit  is  much  like  the  hair  species,  except  that  they  delight  in  play- 
ing through  the  heavy  surf  on  a  rocky  shore ;  they  are  covered  with  a  fine  fur,  which  makes 
their  skins  valuable.  The  full-grown  males  are  called  "  wigs,"  the  females  and  pups  have  the 
same  name  as  the  hair-seals  ;  all  of  them  are  taken  for  their  skins  and  oil,  and  in  the  same  way  as 
the  sea-elephant,  miless  they  are  found  on  narrow  beaches,  or  detached  rocks  ;  in  such  places 
they  are  shot  with  a  rifle.  But  those  innumerable  herds  of  sea-elephants  have  long  since 
been  nearly  exterminated,  and  here  seals  likewise  are  found  only  in  comparatively  small 
numbers. 

ACCOUNT    OF   TWO    MEN   LIVING   ON   THE   ISLAND. 

Although  extremely  barren,  man  may  live  on  the  productions  here  found,  as  will  appear 
from  the  following :  In  1856  two  men  were  left  on  San  Bonito  Island,  by  the  American 
sloop  Ino,  to  take  seals,  while  the  others  on  board  went  to  another  point  on  the  coast  for  the 
same  purpose,  intending  in  due  time  to  return,  but  the  Ino  never  came.  As  a  last  resort  the 
two  adventurers  crossed  over  in  a  small  boat  to  Cedros  ;  here  the}'  passed  three  months,  living 
principally  on  the  flesh  of  the  deer,  which  they  hunted  in  the  mountains  ;  their  names  were 
Francis  Miller  and  J.  N.  Whitney.  These  men  were  inured  to  hardship  and  rough  living, 
but  they  came  to  the  firm  conclusion  that  bread  was  the  staif  of  life,  although  they  consumed 
incredible  quantities  of  deer-meat  and  fish.  Still,  to  use  their  own  expression,  they  "  always 
felt  hungry." 

It  is  said,  by  those  having  had  experience  in  searching  for  minerals,  that  indications  of 
extensive  deposits  are  found  scattered  over  the  island,  gold  .and  copper  predominating. 
Whether  any  valuable  mines  do  exist  remains  to  be  proved. 

SAN   BONITO    ISLANDS. 

The  San  Bonito  Islands  are  three  in  number ;  two  of  them  are  moderately  high,  the  middle 
one  quite  low,  latitude  28°  3',  longitude  115°  45'.  They  lie  15  miles  west  from  Cedes;  they  are 
separated  from  each  other  by  narrow  passages,  where  boats  may  pass  through  in  safety,  but 
not  practicable  for  large  vessels.  The  whole  length  of  the  three  islands  is  not  over  10  miles. 
The  western  one  is  largest,  being  about  five  miles  in  extent ;  the  other  two  about  half  the  size. 
A^l  three  are  very  barren,  aifording  neither  wood  nor  water;  seal  and  sea-elephant  are  the  only 
animals  found  on  them,  of  these  there  were  formerly  large  numbers.  In  1853  there  were 
found  on  the  south  side  of  the  largest  of  the  group  the  remains  of  a  Japanese  junk  ;  whether 
it  was  some  part  of  one  said  to  have  been  cast  away  on  the  coast  of  Oregon  several  years 
ago,  or  the  remains  of  some  other  Asiatic  craft,  is  a  matter  of  conjecture.  That  it  was  one 
or  the  other  there  is  but  little  doubt ;  the  planks  were  fastened  together  on  the  edges,  with 
spikes  or  bolts  of  a  flat  shape,  with  the  head  all  on  one  side.  The  seams  were  not  straight, 
although  the  workmanship  otherwise  was  good ;  it  ajjpcarcd  to  be  the  bottom  of  a  vessel, 
and  gave  evidence  of  having  been  a  long  time  on  shore.  Anchorage  may  be  had  on  the 
southeast  side  of  the  middle  island  in  from  10  to  20  fathoms,  but  the  bottom  is  quite  rocky 
and  poor  holding-ground. 

NATIVIDAD   ISLAND. 

Between  Cedros  Island  and  the  coast  lies  the  island  of  Natividad,  which  rises  VOO  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea  ;  its  length  is  five  miles,  and  not  more  than  one  mile  wide,  perfectly 
barren,  the  breeding-place  of  large  numbers  of  sea-fowl  and  seal.  From  an  islet  of  the  west 
end  (Maria  Island)  several  small  cargoes  of  guano  have  been  taken ;  it  was  at  this  place  a 
few  years  ago  that  several  American  ships  left  in  a  great  hurry,  their  masters  supposing  they 
had  been  warned  off  by  true  Mexican  authority. 

St.  Roque  Island  is  in  latitude  27°  N.,  and  less  than  two  miles  from  the  coast ;  it  is  a  low 
rock,  nearly  covered  with  coarse  gravel  and  light  sand,  intermixed  with  bird-lime.  The  whole 
extent  of  the  island  is  not  over  five  square  miles ;  its  shores  are  the  herding-places  of  seals 
and  once  a  favorite  resort  of  the  sea-elephant ;  large  numbers  of  the  small  sea-fowl  called 
"mutton-birds  "  burrow  in  the  sandy  covering  of  the  island,  where  they  hatch  their  young. 
Good  shelter  can  be  found  for  a  small  vessel  between  the  island  and  the  main,  which  is  occa- 
sionally made  use  of  by  sealers. 

Asuncion  Island  is  of  the  same  description  as  St.  Roque,  except  being  a  little  higher ;  it 
is  in  latitude  26°  50'  N.,  longitude  114°  W.,  and  affords  a  good  anchorage  on  its  southeastern 
side  in  12  to  15  fathoms  water,  well  sheltered  from  the  prevailing  northwest  winds. 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  131 

SANTA   MARGARITA    ISLAND, 

As  mentioned  before,  is  liigli,  broken,  and  oxtrcmely  barren.  Vague  reports  have  frequently 
been  eirculated  about  veins  of  coal,  eojjper,  and  gold,  hidden  in  its  mountains.  We  have 
never  knowu  of  any  real  discovery  being  made  of  the  precious  metals,  or  deposits  of  coal. 
Two  ships'  companies  once  carried  on  gold-mining  (as  they  supposed)  for  a  few  weeks  pretty 
extensively,  and  large  quantities  of  the  virgin  metal  were  taken  on  board, .but,  much  to  the 
disgust  of  all  concerned,  it  proved  to  be  nothing  but  iron  pyrites. 

GENERAL     REMARKS. 

Tmk  whole  extent  of  the  west  coast  is  quite  barren,  and  its  approaches  bold,  except  at  such 
points  as  have  been  before  spoken  of  in  this  report.  San  Bartolom6  and  Magdalena  Bays  are 
both  excellent  harbors,  and  their  entrances  free  from  all  hidden  dangers  ;  tlic  latter  has  an 
extent  of  navigable  lagoons  connected  with  it  of  over  100  miles.  There  are  many  places 
where  anchorage  may  be  found,  and  roadsteads  where  a  ship  may  lie  and  find  some  shelter 
from  the  prevailing  coast-winds  ;  also,  islets  that  have  not  been  made  mention  of, — in  fact, 
there  is  but  little  extent  of  coast  where  anchorage  cannot  be  had  in  case  of  necessity.  The 
climate  is  a  pleasant  one  ;  the  principal  sources  of  wealth  have  been  its  whale  and  seal  fish- 
eries, guano,  and  salt;  of  the  latter  there  is  comparatively  an  unbounded  supply.  -Of  guano 
there  are  now  no  deposits  known  worthy  of  notice.  The  whale  and  seal  fisheries  have  from 
the  beginning  been  monopolized  by  American  vessels ;  a  few  French,  English,  and  other  for- 
eign flags  might  be  seen  along  the  coast,  among  the  many  ships  that  wore  the  stars  and 
stripes.  All  combined  have  nearly  exhausted  this  branch  of  commerce,  so  that  where  once 
the  waters  were  alive  with  different  varieties  of  marine  animals  that  gave  adventurous  em- 
ployment to  the  hardy  mariner,  and  wealth  to  the  merchant,  now  only  are  seen  a  few  strag- 
glers making  their  periodical  migrations.  The  sea-beaches  of  island  and  coast,  once  the  herd- 
ing-places  of  these  amphibious  animals,  whose  peltries  were  highly  prized  among  the  en- 
lightened classes  of  both  Europe  and  America,  are  now  deserted  ;  except  at  the  most  inac- 
cessible points,  there  are  but  few  found,  and  their  wild  and  watchful  habits  plainly  tell  that 
the  species  is  nearly  annihilated.  Of  the  four  sources  of  wealth  before  mentioned,  salt  seems 
to  be  the  only  one  that  has  not  been  to  a  great  extent  exhausted. 

The  interior  of  the  peninsula  must  be  much  more  productive,  to  sustain  the  numerous  herds 
of  cattle,  and  varied  animal  life,  that  range  through  the  hills  and  valleys,  from  Cape  Sau 
Lucas  to  San  Diego. 

C.    M.    SCAMMOX. 


132  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 


JOURNAL  OF  THE  EXPEDITION  OF  MR.  J.  D.  HA\^^S  AND 
PARTY,  THROUGH  THE  INTERIOR  OF  THE  PENINSULA  OF 
LOWER   CALIFORNIA,   FROM   SAN    DOMINGO  TO  SAN  DIEGO. 

Ox  the  21st  day  of  April,  1849,  the  New  Grenadian  schooner  San  Juan,  23  tons,  having 
23  persons  on  board,  sailed  from  the  port  of  Panama,  bound  for  San  Francisco.  In  49  days 
she  made  the  harbor  of  Acapulco,  and  sailed  from  there  on  the  21st  of  June.  On  the  10th 
day  of  August  she  came  to  anchor  at  Point  San  Domingo,  Lower  California.  At  this  place  a 
spring  of  water  was  found  near  the  shore,  and  the  schooner  was  supplied  with  about  300  gal- 
lons, which  was  taken  off  in  India-rubber  bags  through  the  surf  A  party  of  sis  of  the  pas- 
sengers was  made  up,  consisting  of  the  following  persons :  J.  D.  Hawks,  Daniel  T.  Hulett,  George 
H.  Davis,  John  C.  Gilsey,  Henry  M.  Smith,  and  J.  J.  Ellis,  to  proceed  by  land  to  San  Diego. 
Having  purchased  a  horse  of  some  Spaniards  who  were  travelling  south,  we  packed  such  ar- 
ticles as  we  could  conveniently  upon  him,  but  each  of  the  men  was  obliged  to  make  a  pack 
for  himself  to  carry.  Bidding  our  companions  farewell,  we  started  at  about  two  o'clock 
p.  M.,  on  the  11th  of  August,  taking  the  road  which  was  made  by  the  Jesuits  some  200  years 
since.  "We  travelled  about  nine  miles,  and  encamped  at  dark  near  the  foot  of  a  mountain, 
very  much  fatigued.  Throwing  ourselves  upon  the  ground,  we  were  soon  asleep.  "SVe  had 
failed  to  provide  ourselves  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  water. 

August  \2th. — Started  at  four  o'clock,  by  moonlight.  The  road  was  so  blind  that  we  were 
obliged  till  daylight  to  feel  our  way  with  our  hands.  We  travelled  about  six  miles,  and  were 
overjoyed  at  finding  water.  This  was  in  one  of  the  river-beds,  and  in  the  rainy  season  must 
be  quite  a  considerable  stream,  but  now  it  was  nearly  dried  up,  and  the  water  was  only  found 
in  pools,  and  very  warm.  We  caught  a  few  fish  in  one  of  the  largest  of  the  holes,  and  having 
cooked  and  eaten  them,  we  started  at  4  p.  m.  on  our  journey.  We  travelled  about  six  miles, 
and  encamped  for  the  night  en  an  extensive  plain.  The  feet  of  some  of  the  men  are  getting 
very  sore.  The  earth  is  pnrched  up  ;  there  are  no  signs  of  vegetation,  except  the  cactus,  a 
few  shrubs.,  and  sage.  Every  plant  and  shrub  is  guarded  with  thorns,  and  as  we  pass  along 
they  will  penetrate  our  flesh,  and  we  frequently  pull  them  out,  and  find  they  have  been  im- 
bedded for  half  an  inch. 

August  13///,.  — Started  at  four  in  the  morning,  and  travelled  about  two  miles,  when  we 
came  to  water,  which  was  in  a  small  valley.  This  water  was  only  in  small  quantities,  but  we 
found  some  under  the  shade  of  a  large  rock,  that  was  quite  cool  and  refreshing.  In  this  val- 
ley we  found  immense  quantities  of  the  cactus — some  of  the  species  known  as  Cerent  ; 
being  eighteen  inches  in  diameter  and  from  20  to  30  feet  in  height.  Here  we  met  a  Spaniard, 
who  gave  us  some  grapes  and  figs,  which  were  very  grateful.  We  filled  our  pouches  and  bot- 
tles with  water,  and  again  started  for  the  rancho  San  Jose  de  Grace,  which  the  Spaniard  told 
us  was  three  leagues  distant.  Tlie  sun  was  intensely  hot,  and  in  passing  through  some  of 
the  ravines  among  the  mountains  there  was  not  a  breath  of  air.  In  about  eight  miles'  travel 
we  came  again  to  water,  where  we  halted,  washed,  and  were  greatly  refreshed.  Started  again, 
and  were  soon  in  sight  of  the  rancho,  which  consists  of  some  five  or  six  houses.  This  valley  is 
very  small,  and  is  entirely  surrounded  by  high  mountains,  ft  cannot  be  more  than  two  or 
two  and  a  half  miles  across  it  in  its  greatest  extent,  and  not  more  than  a  half  or  three-quar- 
ters of  a  mile  wide.  The  soil  is  very  fine,  and  we  ibund  all  kinds  of  tropical  fruits,  such  as 
figs,  grapes,  pomegranates,  peaches,  oranges,  and  lemons ;  likewise  tobacco,  cotton,  corn, 
wheat,  with  melons,  etc.  There  is  a  fine  stream  of  water,  that  is  used  for  irrigation.  The 
people  were  at  first  quite  suspicious  of  us,  not  knowing  whether  we  were  friends  or  enemies, 
as  they  had  not  heard  of  the  cessation  of  hostilities  and  the  treaty  between  Mexico  and  the 
United  States.  We  soon  gave  them  to  understand  that  they  need  be  under  no  apprehension 
in  regard  to  us,  and  we  had  their  confidence.  We  learn  that  Don  Jose,  the  owner  of  the 
rancho,  will  be  at  home  to-morrow  ;  that  he  has  several  mules  with  him,  and  we  shall  wait, 
and  engage  him  to  take  us  for  a  short  (.distance  on  our  way.  We  spread  our  blankets  in  a 
small  storehouse,  and  were  soon  asleep. 

August  Mth. — While  partaking  of  a  dish  of  ortola,  with  some  grapes,  for  our  breakfast, 
we  espied  Don  Jose  coming  down  the  mountain.  As  soon  as  he  arrived  we  engaged  him  to 
take  us  to  the  ranch  of  Senor  Ramon  Argular,  some  nine  leagues  distant.  At  this  place  we 
learned  that  two  Americans  had  but  a  few  days  before  passed  by,  who  had  left  a  vessel  by 
means  of  a  raft  which  had  gone  to  pieces  in  the  Burf,  and  they  were  unable  to  regain  the 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  133 

schooner.  From  the  descri]ition  given,  wo  arc  under  the  impression  that  they  are  from  the 
schooner  Joso  Cascaras,  whieli  was  built  liy  some  Americans  at  the  i)ort  of  La  Union.  These 
men  had  been  wrecked  on  the  steamer  (jalveston,  in  tlie  bay  of  Honduras,  crossed  the  country, 
and  at  La  Union  liad  built  this  schooner  of  lo  tons,  and  put  to  sea  in  her. 

Aii;/icsl  lath. — At  three  o'clock  in  the  nu)rning  we  were  ready  for  a  start,  and,  having  taken 
leave  of  our  kintl  friends,  with  Jose  for  our  guide,  we  conunenced  the  ascent  of  the  mountain. 
In  about  one  hour  we  had  reached  the  top.  Here  we  came  upon  an  extensive  plain  which  we 
wore  to  cross,  and  at  eight  o'clock  we  halted  15  miles  on  our  way.  We  found  water  in  a  deep 
ravine,  into  which  wo  descended  by  a  very  rocky  and  precipitous  road  ;  in  some  places  it  was 
so  steep  (hat  it  was  fearful  to  ride  over.  This  is  one  of  the  wildest  places  imaginable.  On 
the  opposite  side  of  the  ravine  there  is  a  perpendicular  wall  of  rock  from  four  to  sl.x  hundred 
feet  in  height,  and  the  whole  place  is  covered  with  immense  boulders  of  stone. 

We  renuiined  in  the  ravine  until  one  o'clock  p.  u.,  when  we  started,  and,  passing  over  a 
very  dry  and  inhospitable  country,  we  reached  the  raneho  Patroeruna,  where  we  found  Senor 
Ramon  Argular.  An  hour  before  reaching  the  ranch  we  were  drenched  to  the  skin  by  a 
heavy  shower  of  rain. 

At  this  place  our  horse  which  we  purchased  of  the  Spaniard  before  starting  gave  out,  and 
we  sold  him  to  Senor  Argular  for  §G.  We  expected  to  be  able  to  obtain  at  this  i)lace  a  supply 
of  horses  and  mules,  but  are  disappointed,  and  we  have  made  an  arrangement  with  our  faith- 
ful guide,  Don  Jose,  to  go  on  with  us  to  the  mission  of  San  Ignaeio,  which  is  two  days'  travel 
from  here.  The  loss  of  our  horse  reduced  us  now  to  the  necessity  of  taking  one  of  the  mules  for 
our  baggage,  and  as  the  feet  of  two  of  the  party  are  too  sore  to  admit,  of  their  walking,  the 
balance  of  the  party  are  obliged  to  perform  nearly  the  whole  of  the  distance  on. foot.  After 
a  supper  of  boiled  beans,  we  were  conducted  to  one  of  the  out-houses,  which  we  were  to 
occupy  for  the  night.  . 

Here  we  saw  Joseph  Adams,  of  Baltimore,  one  of  the  two  Americans  who  had  passed  the 
ranch  of  San  Jose  de  Grace,  and  he  gave  us  a  history  of  their  trials.  From  his  account  it  appears 
that  when  the  schooner  Jose  Cascaras  was  in  about  latitude  25°  30'  north,  they  were  on  short 
allowance  of  water.  Four  of  the  passengers  left  the  schooner  in  the  only  boat ;  they  had  to  land 
through  the  surf,  intending  to  proceed  by  land ;  they  were  taken  off  by  the  steward  of  the 
schooner,  who  was  to  have  returned  to  the  vessel  with  the  boat.  The  schooner  waited  nearly 
a  day  for  his  return,  but  as  he  did  not  ajipear  they  supposed  that  he  had  gone  on  with  the 
others,  and  left  them  without  a  boat.  They  then  set  sail  and  went  above  latitude  2G",  where 
they  made  a  raft  of  some  barrels,  and  Dr.  Phillips,  of  Mississippi,  and  Joseph  Adams,  volun- 
teered to  land  on  it  through  the  surf  in  search  of  water.  The  raft  went  to  pieces  in  the 
breakers,  and  they  were  not  able  to  regain  the  schooner,  and  were  left  on  this  desolate  coast 
without  food  or  clothing.  They  were  supplied  for  two  days  by  Captain  Hamilton  of  the 
schooner  with  food,  which  was  sent  to  them  in  a  barrel,  which  was  taken  asliore  by  the  tide 
and  secured  by  them.  At  the  end  of  this  time  the  captain  sent  them  a  note  stating  that  the 
water  on  the  schooner  was  exhausted,  ami  directing  Ihem  to  proceeil  to  the  bay  of  San  Bar- 
tolome,  and  that  he  would  put  in  there  for  them.  They  wandered  on  to  the  northwest,  and 
just  at  night  struck  the  road,  and  in  two  days  they  arrived  at  San  Jose  de  Grace.  Dr. 
Phillips  has  gone  on,  and  Mr.  Adams  intends  to  go  from  this  to  San  Rosalie  on  the  Gulf  of 
California  to  try  and  get  a  passage  to  JIazatlan.  Dr.  Phillips  was  in  the  steamer  Galveston 
when  she  was  wrecked  in  the  bay  of  Ilondurus. 

Aiiffiisl  IGlh. — Started  this  morning  at  5  o'clock,  and  went  about  five  leagues,  when  we  came 
to  water,  and  remained  until  afternoon,  as  the  heat  is  too  oppiessive  to  travel  in  the  middle 
of  the  day.  At  2  o'clock  we  started  and  i)assed  over  a  very  rough  country.  There  is  a  suc- 
cession of  plains  and  steep  mountains.  The  ground  for  the  entire  distance  is  covered  with 
immense  (|uantities  of  stones,  as  though  they  had  been  emptied  from  carts  and  sjjrcad  around, 
we  passed  to-day  large  tracts  that  appeared  to  have  been  grouted  with  lime  and  sand,  and 
the  crevices  of  the  rocks  were  filled  as  though  done  by  masonry.  Passing  over  one  of  the 
mountains,  we  came  in  sight'  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  We  suppose  we  are  in  latitude  27'  30.' 
We  encamped  at  5  o'clock  on  the  banks  of  one  of  the  dry  rivers ;  there  was  but  little  water, 
and  we  found  it  only  in  holes.  It  was  very  good,  however.  We  spread  our  blankets  under 
a  raesquit-tree  for  tiie  night. 

Aufimt  mil. — Started  at  3.45  a.  m.  It  was  quite  dark,  and  our  road  very  blind;  for  an 
hour  or  more  we  were  obliged  to  pick  our  way  over  immense  stones,  and  through  brush  and 
cactus ;  this  was  the  most  fatiguing  and  worst  place  we  have  yet  seen.  The  road  in  some 
places  is  well  defined,  and  has  been  made  by  throwing  the  stones  on  each  side,  so  that  for 
miles  they  are  piled  up  like  winrows,  and  in  other  i>laccs  the  track  is  entirely  obliterated,  the 
road  having  been  washed  out.  We  saw  to-day  some  cochineal  or  a  bug  similar  to  it.  At  7^ 
r.  M.  we  arrived  at  the  raneho  of  San  Joachin,  which  is  about  live  leagues  from  where  we 
encamped  last  night.  This  is  one  of  tiie  old  missions  gone  now  entirely  to  ruin.  It  consists 
of  two  stone  buildings,  or  rather  parts  of  the  walls.  There  is  some  fruit  here,  such  as  figs, 
grapes,  pomegranates,  etc.  A  little  jerk-beef  with  some  grapes  was  all  we  could  get  to  eat. 
This  place  is  occupied  by  an  aged  American,  named  Noah  Hall,  who  has  been  in  the  country 
some  thirty-five  years.  Mr.  Hall  landed  at  the  bay  of  San  Bartolome  or  Furth  Bay,  from 
a  whaie-ship  that  put  in  there.     We  learned  from  Mr.  Hall  that  some  time  since  a  Peruviaa 


134  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

brig  was  abandoned  near  this  on  the  coast,  and  most  of  the  passengers  and  crew  are  sup- 
posed to  have  perished ;  only  two  are  known  to  have  survived,  and  they  were  fifteen  days 
without  water.  The  mate,  who  was  an  American,  with  one  of  the  crew,  was  saved,  having 
been  found  by  a  party  going  from  San  Rosalie  to  some  other  ports  on  the  gulf.  They 
bad  been  wandering  for  j62  days;,  the  vessel  was  at  anchor  when  abandoned,  and  is  sup- 
posed to  have  gone  to  pieces.  The  body  of  the  captain,  with  his  papers,  was  found  some 
time  afterward. 

We  left  San  Joachin  at  2.45  p.  m.,  and  proceeded  over  a  very  good  road,  some  three  leagues, 
to  the  mission  of  San  Ignacio.  Here  we  overtook  four  of  the  passengers  from  the  San  Juan, 
who  had  left  two  days  before  us.  They  had  taken  up  their  quarters  in  a  large  room  attached 
to  the  church,  and  we  joined  them  there. 

August  18th. — The  church  buildings  of  San  Ignacio  are  in  a  very  good  state  of  repair,  and 
we  find  the  padre  who  has  charge  of  the  mission  a  very  excellent  man.  He  has  been  con- 
stant in  his  attentions  to  us,  and  has  assisted  us  materially  in  making  our  purchases  of 
animals,  etc.  He  invited  us  into  his  library,  where  we  found  a  fine  collection  of  books,  maps, 
etc.  We  found  here  a  map  of  Mexico,  including  Lower  California,  from  which  we  have  made 
notes  for  our  future  guidance.  The  padre  has  kindly  offered  to  send  letters  for  us  through 
Mexico,  and  I  shall  avail  myself  of  his  offer  and  write  home.  He  has  also  given  me  a  letter, 
to  the  padre  of  San  Tomas,  and  I  think  this  may  be  of  service  to  us  as  we  journey  through 
the  country. 

Besides  the  church  buildings,  the  town  is  composed  of  a  few  miserable  huts.  The  whole 
country  appears  to  be  under  the  proprietorship  of  a  portly  old  Castilian,  named  Don  Buen- 
tura,  or  Buenaventura.  He  owns  all  the  cattle  and  horses,  and  we  are  endeavoring  to  make 
some  purchases  from  him.  We  were  obliged  to-day  to  bring  him  to  terms.  One  of  our  party 
had  a  quantity  of  jewelry,  consisting  of  rings,  chains,  etc.,  and  as  we  were  trading,  a  Spaniard 
Yery  coolly  put  a  ring  on  his  finger,  and  went  off  with  it  against  the  remonstrances  of  the  o\yner. 
He  appealed  to  Bueutura  to  have  him  stop  the  man,  but  he  affected  indifference,  and  allowed 
the  fellow  to  mount  a  horse  and  ride  off  with  it.  We  at  once  determined  that  it  would  not 
answer  to  allow  the  matter  to  rest  in  this  manner,  and  the  whole  party  of  sis,  armed  with  a 
rifle  and  pistols,  went  immediately  to  the  house  of  Buenlura.  As  he  savN*  this  formidable 
a>-]m/  approaching,  he  surrendered,  coming  forward  and  asking  the  value  of  the  ring.  I 
answered  $10,  and  he  said  that  he  would  settle  it,  and  we  marched  back  to  our  quarters.  In 
about  half  an  hour  he  came  in  and  handed  us  the  amount,  and  we  had  very  little  trouble  in 
trading  with  him  after  this.  He  sent  out  for  some  horses,  and  sold  us  some  saddles,  and 
assisted  us  in  various  ways. 

Su7ida>/,  Aiif/ust  19th. — Not  much  attention  is  paid  to  Sunday  here.  The  church  was 
open  for  mass  in  the  morning,  with  an  afternoon  service,  with  a  sermon.  We  were  invited 
by  Don  Luis  Argular  to  visit  his  casa,  which  is  about  a  mile  from  the  church,  and  at  the 
upper  end  of  the  valley.  We  found  his  house  delightfully  situated,  surrounded  by  date  and 
fig  trees,  with  a  fine  vineyard  and  melon-patch.  The  grapes  were  the  finest  we  have  seen. 
After  spending  a  couple  of  hours  with  Don  Argular  and  his  agreeable  wife,  we  returned  to 
our  quarters. 

Morula)/,  August  20th. — The  dSy  has  been  spent  in  getting  our  animals  for  the  journey 
before  us.  We  have  four  horses  "and  one  mule.  We  find  it  difficult  to  obtain  saddles,  but 
we  have  secured  two  very  good  ones  and  one  pack-saddle,  and  hope  that  we  shall  be  ready 
to  start  to-morrow. 

It  rains  every  afternoon  at  this  season,  and  the  rain  is  accompanied  by  high  winds  and 
severe  thunder  and  lightning.  We  fear  that  these  storms  may  annoy  us  on  our  journey,  as 
the  streams  rise  so  suddenly  in  the  mountains  that  it  will  make  the  travelling  dangerous. 
The  padre  invited  us  to  dine  at  one  of  the  houses,  and  sent  his  own  plate  for  the  table. 

At  a  little  distance  in  front  of  the  church  there  is  a  large  octagonal  reservoir  built  of  stone, 
with  a  stream  of  water  running  tlirougli  it.     The  masonry  is  very  good. 

Tufsihi)/,  August  21  St. — The  entire  day  has  been  spent  in  completing  our  arrangements. 
The  rain  this  afternoon  was  not  as  severe  as  yesterday. 

IVeduesdd)/,  August  22(1. — We  started  this  morning,  after  getting  all  the  information  we 
could  in  regard  to  the  country  through  which  we  were  to  travel.  The  road  for  a  short  dis- 
tance was  very  good,  but  we  soon  came  to  the  mountains.  The  roads  over  these  mountains 
defy  any  description.  The  defiles  and  passes  in  some  places  are  perfectly  awful ;  we  were 
obliged  to  unpack  our  mule  in  several  places,  and  carry  the  articles  up  for  some  distance, 
as  it  was  impossible  for  him  to  get  through  with  his  pack  on.  We  have  had  a  hard  day's 
work,  and  our  animals  have  had  nothing  to  eat,  as  we  were  told  before  starting  that  we 
should  reach  the  rancho  of  San  JIartin  after  about  seven  leagues'  travel.  We  fear  wc  have 
missed  our  way ;  we  have  passed  over  the  roughest  road  to-day  that  we  have  yet  seen.  The 
mountains  are  piled  up  on  the  top  of  each  other.  They  are  terrific.  Selecting  a  place  where 
wc  would  be  partiallv  protected  by  an  overhanging  cliff,  we  unpacked  our  animals,  and, 
making  them  fast,  laid  down  for  tlie  night.  It  was  dark  before  we  were  ready  to  spread 
our  blankets. 

Thursdag,  Aiignst  2Sd. — This  morning  we  fed  our  horses  for  a  short  time  on  some  mes- 
quit,  which  we  found  growing  here.     One  of  the  party  went  forward,  and  soon  returned  with 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  I35 

the  intoUiiroiice,  that  tlio  raiiclio  of  San  Jfartiti  was  about  one  mile  farther  on,  and  wo  at  once 
started  for  it.  Tliis  raneb  eonsists  of  a  niiserahle  hut,  made  l)y  drivhii;  some  poles  into  the 
pround,  and  eoverini;  them  with  houi:;hs.  It  is  quite  an  extensive  hut  unproductive  valley,  and 
all  that  eould  be  obtained  here  was  a  little  milk  and  cheese,  and  the  fruit  of  the  cactus.  Wo 
endeavored  to  procure  the  services  of  one  of  tlie  two  men  we  found  hero  as  guide,  but  as  he 
had  no  horse  he  would  not  po.  We  rested  hero  a  short  time,  and  at  11  o'clock  we  started, 
the  old  man  at  the  ranch  acting  as  guide  out  of  the  valley.  Wo  travelled  for  two  hours  and 
came  to  water,  and  very  good  feed  ibr  our  horses.  We  let  them  cat  for  an  hour,  and  thou 
went  on  till  five  o'clock,  where  we  encamped  for  the  night ;  one  of  our  horses  has  given  out. 
Just  before  night  wo  mot  a  man  and  woman  who  represent  the  next  water  to  be  about  12 
leagues  ahead.  They  were  very  thirsty,  having  no  water  with  them.  Our  encam])ment  is  on  the 
Rosaletta;  the  mosquitoes  and  ants  were  very  troublesome  during  the  night.  We  have  seen 
several  hares  and  a  few  rattlesnakes  to-day. 

Fridaii,  Aitfjust  2ith. — Arose  at  half-past  three  and  went  back  one  and  half  miles  to  water 
our  animals  and  let  thorn  feed.  We  also  washed  our  elothing  and  made  ready  for  the  day ; 
drove  very  hard.  The  day  was  sultry,  and  we  suffered  much  for  want  of  water,  having  but 
little  with  us,  and  with  the  prospect  of  passing  the  night  without  any.  At  about  10  o'clock 
one  horse  gave  out  again,  and  we  were  obliged  to  abandon  him.  Smith  went  forward  with 
the  mule,  and  found  water  at  about  two  o'clock  in  some  holes  ;  he  halted  until  the  rest  of  the 
party  came  up,  and  we  ccmcluded  to  encamp  for  the  night.  The  road  to-day  has  been  over 
plains  and  along  the  beds  of  the  dry  rivers ;  we  found  the  water  as  we  were  just  entering  the 
mountain-passes.  We  met  three  men  and  two  boys ;  they  are  one  month  from  San  Diego. 
We  suppose  that  we  have  travelled  about  six  leagues  to-day.  The  country  presents  the  same 
barren,  unfruitful,  and  forbidding  appearance,  as  that  we  have  passed  through.  The  cactus 
and  a  few  thorny  shrubs,  except  on  the  margin  of  the  dry  river,  where  the  mesquits  and  a 
species  of  willow  are  sometimes  found,  arc  all  that  is  to  bo  seen. 

Sufurdai/,  Auf/iist  'loth. — Started  at  about  five  o'clock,  as  soon  as  we  could  see  the  road; 
it  ran  along  for  some  distance,  following  the  bed  of  one  of  the  dry  rivers,  when  we  again 
struck  the  mountains,  and  have  crossed  some  very  high  points.  We  passed  to-day  large 
beds  of  copper-ore  in  the  form  of  an  epidote  ;  the  sides  of  the  mountains  are  covered  with  it, 
it  also  shows  defined  veins.  It  can  never  be  of  any  avail,  as  it  is  among  almost  impassable 
mountains,  with  no  fuel  or  water  near.  At  nine  o'clock  we  halted  at  the  San  Juan,  which  is 
merely  an  indentation,  without  much  grass  or  water.  We  met  this  morning  three  men  and  two 
women  going  south,  83  days  from  San  Diego ;  from  them  we  learn  that  it  is  about  six  or  eight 
leagues  to  Santa  Gertrudes. 

After  leaving  the  San  Juan  we  were  iu  great  doubt  as  to  our  course,  but  after  making  a 
careful  examination  of  the  track  we  decided  which  path  to  take.  The  road  here  passes  over 
the  steepest  and  hiffhest  mountain  that  we  have  yet  crossed.  Some  of  the  way  up  it  was 
almost  perj)endicular,  and  we  were  obliged  to  crawl  on  our  hands  and  feet.  It  was  a  very 
great  task  to  get  our  animals  over,  and  could  only  do  it  by  taking  one  at  a  time,  one  to  lead 
and  another  to  drive  them.  We  were  fully  two  hours  in  getting  to  the  top.  From  this 
mountain  the  Gulf  of  California  and  the  Pacific  Ocean  were  distinctly  visible,  and  seemed  to 
be  at  our  very  feet,  and  wo  could  see  all  the  islands  and  indentations  along  the  coasts.  As  it 
was  nearly  dark  when  we  reached  the  summit,  and  wo  were  obliged  to  pass  the  night  there, 
we  suffered  very  much  from  cold  during  tlie  night.  In  looking  about  we  found  a  little 
water  in  some  holes  in  the  rocks,  and  but  for  this  fortunate  circumstance  we  should  have 
been  obliged  to  go  all  night  without  water.  There  is  no  grass  for  our  animals,  and  they 
begin  to  show  signs  of  giving  out.     Wo  found  a  few  prickly  pears. 

Sunday,  Aur/ust  26</t. — Left  our  encampment  in  the  mountains,  down  through  ravines  foL 
lowing  the  water-courses,  which  are  now  dry,  crossing  over  some  very  high  places  ;  at  times 
the  road  was  almost  obliterated,  and  it  was  with  great  difficulty  that  we  could  make  it  out. 
We  are  fearful  that  wo  may  not  be  on  the  right  road,  as  it  makes  too  much  to  the  west  to 
suit  ns,  but  we  have  learned  that,  in  a  country  like  this,  which  ibr  the  whole  length  of  the 
peninsula  is  little  better  than  a  barren  denort,  wo  c.innot  de[)end  upon  the  compass,  but 
that  the  road  has  been  made  as  passes  could  be  found  through  the  mountains,  and  also  to 
connect,  as  much  as  it  is  possible  to  do  so,  the  few  and  small  valleys  that  arc  found.  There  is 
no  doubt  but  the  traveller  through  this  country  i)y  the  road  we  liavc  taken  passes  the  best 
portion  of  it;  and  if  we  have  seen  the  best,  what  can  the  balance  be?  At  10  o'clock  we 
reached  the  mission  of  Santa  Gertrudes,  the  whole  party,  both  man  and  beast,  in  almost  a 
famished  condition,  as  wo  had  been  without  food  for  nearly  two  days.  The  peojile  at  one  of 
the  houses  had  just  made  an  "ortola,"  a  kind  of  pudding,  for  themselves,  l)ut  seeing  our  con- 
dition they  broutrht  it  to  us,  and  I  believe  there  was  but  one  opinion  in  the  party  in  regard 
to  the  quality  of  the  dish. 

There  is  an  old  church  building  in  which  two  or  three  families  appear  to  live.  A  cross  is 
erected  in  the  centre  of  the  plaza ;  on  one  side  is  a  wall  or  piece  of  crude  masonry,  in  which 
are  hung  three  bells.  The  church  and  two  of  the  houses  are  built  of  adobe.  The  name  of  our 
host  is  Jose  Maria.  In  answer  to  our  inquiries  as  to  whether  wo  could  procure  any  thing  to 
take  along  on  our  journey,  they  replied  that  they  were  very  poor,  and  could  not  make  us  any 
tortillas.     We  asked  for  meat,  but  they  had  none.    During  the  day,  having  occasion  to  make 


136  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

use  of  a  small  box  of  medicine,  which  I  had  brought  with  me,  it  was  seen,  and  the  inquiry  at 
once  made  if  I  was  a  doctor.  Jose  Maria  had  been  troubled  with  a  severe  headache,  and  I 
administered  to  him,  and  in  a  short  time  some  three  or  four  patients  were  brought  in,  who 
were  prescribed  for.  They  then  said  that  they  would  make  some  tortillas,  and  soon  another 
one  brought  us  a  basket  of  grapes.  We  procured  a  few  figs  for  the  road.  We  here  purchased 
a  mule,  which  we  think  will  be  of  great  assistance  to  us.  The  valley  in  which  this  mission  is 
situated  is  very  small. 

Mondai/,  August  21lh. — Left  Santa  Gertrudes  at  half-past  seven  o'clock,  and  travelled  for 
the  whole  day  over  a  very  rough  road  ;  at  twelve  o'clock  we  found  a  small  quantity  of  very 
bad  water  in  a  hole  in  one  of  the  rocks.  At  three  o'clock  we  started  again,  and  the  road  is 
worse  than  that  in  the  morning,  and  I  think  it  is  the  worst  we  have  yet  seen  since  we  started. 
The  mountains  are  piled  on  top  of  each  other — "  Alps  on  Alps  arise."  Xhe  sides  of  the 
moimtains  and  the  plains  are  covered  with  immense  granite  boulders,  and  in  some  places  they  are 
almost  impassable.  We  could  not  ride  through  some  of  the  places  between  the  rocks  with- 
out curling  our  feet  upon  our  horses'  necks.  Passed  to-day  ledges  of  clouded  marble, 
some  of  which  appear  to  be  very  fine.  Encamped  for  the  night  in  the  bed  of  a  dry  river,  and 
found  water  by  a  sign  left  by  Mr.  Cook,  who  is  of  the  party  ahead  of  us,  and  who  has  a  guide. 
We  should  not  have  found  it  without  the  notice,  as  it  was  in  a  hole  in  a  deep  ravine,  and 
from  which  we  were  obliged  to  bring  water  in  our  pouches  and  bottles  for  the  animals,  the 
mosquitoes  were  very  troublesome  during  the  whole  night.     Made  about  six  leagues  to-day. 

Tuesday,  August  28,  1849. — Started  at  five  o'clock,  being  detained  some  time  in  conse- 
quence of  the  breaking  loose  of  one  of  our  mules,  and  who  strayed  away  in  search  of  water. 
We  soon  found  him,  and  were  ready  for  a  forward  movement.  The  road  to-day  has  been  for 
most  of  the  time  over  barren  plains,  with  two  high  mountains,  the  crossing  of  one  of  which  was 
very  difficult  and  tedious,  and  composed,  like  those  we  passed  yesterday,  of  immense  boulders 
of  granite  and  other  rocks.     Encamped  on  a  plain,  without  water  or  grass  for  our  animals. 

Wednesday,  August -l^th. — Started  this  morning  at  four  o'clock,  and  went  about  two  miles, 
where  we  found  water  at  the  left  of  the  road  in  a  ravine.  We  were  here  in  great  doubt  as  to 
whether  we  were  upon  the  road  or  not.  We  explored,  and  soon  found  on  our  course  a  road 
leading  over  a  high  mountain;  this  v/e  took,  crossed  the  mountain,  and  descended  into  a  large 
plain,  where  the  road  appeared  to  assume  the  form  of  a  track  again.  The  rains  had  been  very 
severe,  and  had  covered  the  vallej',  but  had  subsided  and  washed  away  the  track  in  many 
places.  We,  however,  kept  on  our  course  as  near  as  we  could,  which  brought  us  to  a  deep 
ravine.  This  we  followed  up,  and  at  some  distance  we  found  the  path  again,  but  it  was  very 
obscure.  About  noon  we  found  a  small  patch  of  dry  grass,  and  we  stopped  to  allow  our  ani- 
mals to  feed,  as  they  were  nearly  exhausted  for  want  of  food.  While  they  were  grazing,  we 
made  explorations,  both  up  and  down  the  ravine,  to  see  if  we  could  find  the  road.  We  found 
where  fires  had  been  made,  but  little  else,  as  evidence  that  the  country  had  ever  been  visited 
by  man.  Started  again,  but,  as  we  were  in  great  doubt  in  regard  to  the  road,  we  came  to  the 
determination  to  retrace  our  steps  to  the  valley  and  try  and  find  the  road  again  from  the  foot 
of  the  mountain.  When  we  arrived  in  the  valley  we  unpacked  our  mules  and  horses,  and 
myself  and  Smith  went  north  across  to  see  if  anyroad  passed  it.  It  was  very  tiresome,  as  the 
walking  was  rough.  No  road  could  be  found,  and  we  returned.  Hulett  and  Davis  took 
horses  and  went  back  to  the  foot  of  tlie  mountain,  but  could  find  no  trace  of  the  road.  It 
was  dark  before  the  party  returned,  and  we  encamped  for  the  night. 

Thursday,  August  oOth. — Started  at  five  o'clock,  and  retraced  our  steps  for  the  rivei'-bed 
we  went  up  yesterday.  As  we  could  find  no  other  track,  we  went  on  till  eleven  o'clock,  some 
of  the  party  going  ahead  to  explore  the  country.  We  can  find  no  signs  of  any  habitations, 
but  we  can  see  occasionally  the  path  making  up  the  valley.  We  halted,  and  some  of  the 
party  again  went  off  to  sec  if  any  signs  could  be  found.  We  are  now  in  a  very  bad  condition, 
as  we  are  in  great  doubt  as  to  our  course  ;  in  fact,  we  do  not  know  where  to  go.  We  arc 
considering  the  expediency  of  sending  back  to  Santa  Gertrudes  for  a  guide.  Davis  is  explor- 
ing a  ravine  below  this,  and  we  are  somewhat  apprehensive  that  he  has  mis«;d  his  way.  It  is 
the  worst  place  I  ever  was  in  to  find  one's  way.  A  person  could  be  within  20  rods  of  our 
Btopping-placc  and  search  all  day  for  it  without  finding  it.  We  shall  soon  determine  on  what 
course  to  pursue,  as  our  case  requires  promjit  action.  Four  o'clock. — Wc  are  all  in  camp 
and  have  determined  to  remain  here  to-morrow,  and  Smith  and  Davis  are  to  go  ahead  up  the 
vallcv,  and  explore  the  country  around,  before  we  send  back  for  a  guide,  as  that  would  de- 
tain us  six  days  or  more.  We  have  seen  a  lev/  quail  to-day,  and  hope  that  we  may  be  able  to 
get  some  to-morrow. 

Friday,  August  31st. — Smith  and  Davis  started  early  this  morning  up  the  valley.  Hulett 
and  myself  go  down  to  see  if  there  is  any  ravine  where  the  road  might  pass  over  the  moun- 
tain ;  also  to  kill  some  quail,  if  possible.  Gilscy  and  Ellis  are  in  camp  to  take  care  of  the 
animals,  etc.  4  p.  m. — Smith  and  Davis  have  just  returned,  and  report  a  road  ahead,  bearing 
N.  W.  by  W.,  which  is  our  course.  We  have  resolved  to  push  on  in  the  morning.  They  have 
had  a  hard  walk  and  have  returned  nearly  exhausted,  but  we  all  feel  better  under  the  prospect 
of  getting  ahead  again,  although  we  have  but  little  to  eat,  having  but  one  fig  and  about  an  ounce 
of  jerked  beef  each  for  our  supper  ;  this  morning  we  had  about  the  same  allowance.  Hulett 
and  myself  found  some  green  nuts  looking  like  hazel-nuts.     We  ate  some  of  them,  and  were 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNLV.  137 

soon  taken  sick.  We  both  Iiad  an  attack  of  diolcra  movbus.  Wcalso  killed  two  young  par- 
tridges and  two  pigeons.  Wc  Ikivc  been  delayed  two  day.-^  by  not  being  able  to  find  the  road. 
It  is  a  piece  of  great  presumption  fur  any  one  to  attenijit  to  travel  through  such  a  sterile,  un- 
productive, ami  mountainous  country  as  this,  without  l)eiiig  well  i)rovided  with  such  ])ro- 
visions  as  can  be  carried  along,  and  without  a  guide ;  and,  in  case  ho  is  at^le  to  .supply  him- 
self with  provisions  for  the  trip,  he  cannot  take  fodder  for  his  animals,  and  they  are  sure  to 
give  out. 

Satunlai/,  September  Isf. — Started  at  five  o'clock,  and  after  a  laborious  march,  for  our  ani- 
mals were  too  weak  to  ride,  we  reached  the  base  of  the  mountain,  and  found  the  road  as 
reported  by  Davis  and  Smith.  There  is  no  doubt  but  it  is  the  old  mission  road.  We  found 
water  in  a  natural  cistern  in  tlie  rocks.  The  road  is  now  over  didicult  mountains;  then  a 
dry,  sterile  plain  ;  and  again  the  mountains.  Wc  have  been  almost  entirely  without  food  for 
three  davs,  excepting  the  four  small  birds  which  we  Jvilled.  I  can  scarcely  imagine  that  there 
can  be  a  worse  country  than  this  to  travel  through,  with  nothing  to  suljsist  on  except  the 
fruit  of  the  cactus,  and  a  few  tigs  which  we  find  at  the  missions,  with  little  or  no  grass  for  cat- 
tle. Went  on  until  nearly  dark,  when  we  came  to  a  small  valley  in  which  we  found  good 
water,  but  little  food  for  our  animals.  Ellis  and  Gilsey,  who  had  pushed  on  to  try  and  reach 
the  mission,  and,  if  possi))le,  to  send  us  relief,  have  not  returned.  We  find  an  old  corral 
here.  Our  party  is  somewhat  separated.  Smith  and  myself  having  travelled  faster  than  the 
others,  we  found  ourselves  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  at  dark  ;  while  Davis  and  Ilulctt  were 
still  on  the  way  down  when  night  overtook  them,  and  as  it  was  impossible  for  them  to  travel 
after  dark,  they  were  obliged  to  remain  on  the  mountain.  W^e  spread  our  blankets  under  a 
mesquit-tree  and  here  passed  the  night,  which  was  quite  cold.  Just  before  dark,  as  I  was 
riding  along,  a  young  pigeon  settled  down  in  the  road  a  few  feet  ahead  of  mc ;  I  alighted  and 
threw  my  hat  over  and  caught  it.     Wc  dressed  it  and  made  our  su])per  from  it. 

Sniuiay,  September  2d. — As  Davis  and  Hulett  came  down  from  the  mountain,  we  were 
ready  for  a  start,  and  proceeded  down  the  valley.  Wc  soon  came  into  a  succession  of  valleys 
and  mountains,  and  through  a  singular  defile,  which  is  very  narrow,  the  rocks  on  each  side  ris- 
ing nearly,  and  in  some  places  quite,  perpendicular  for  three  to  five  hundred  feet ;  and  as  we 
pass  one  point  we  think  we  shall  soon  get  out  into  an  open  plain,  but  we  find  another  and 
still  another  point  to  pass.  We  came  to  an  open  plain  perfectly  sterile,  where  we  rested  for 
two  hours,  without  food  or  water  for  ourselves  or  animals.  At  two  o'clock  we  started  again, 
and  pursued  our  way  over  plains'  and  mountains.  Some  of  the  mountains  were  of  the  descrip- 
tion of  those  we  passed  a  few  days  since,  being  composed  of  immense  boulders  ;  they  are  very 
rough  and  difficult  to  cross.  We  are  encouraged  to-day  by  the  appearance  of  fresh  tracks  in 
the  road,  and  we  know  that  there  is  a  party  ahead  of  us. 

Just  before  night  we  were  overjoyed  at  the  sight  of  a  stone  cross  which  was  standing  on 
the  brow  of  a  hill  overlooking  the  valley,  and  in  a  few  moments  more  we  were  at  the  church 
of  the  mission  of  San  Borja.  Worn  out  with  fatigue,  and  faint  for  want  of  food,  we  asked 
for  something  to  cat,  and  were  told  that  a  little  green  corn,  some  figs,  and  pomegranates,  were  all 
they  had.  Just  at  dark,  however,  we  had  a  small  dish  of  ortola,  which  icvivedus  a  little;  we 
also  went  out  and  picked  some  corn  and  boiled  it.  We  were  directed  to  take  possession  of  a 
part  of  the  old  church  building,  which  we  did.  This  mission  must  have  been  quite  extensive 
in  its  day.  The  church  buildings  were  surrounded  with  a  high  adobe  wall,  but  it  is  entirely 
thrown  down  now. 

There  are  no  grapes  raised  here,  but  there  arc  a  few  vines,  and  the  grounds  show  that  in 
former  years  they  were  cultivated.  The  figs  are  good.  The  place  is  occupied  by  a  few  indo- 
lent, miserable  Indians.  It  was  with  great  difficulty  that  we  could  induce  them  to  si)are  us 
corn  enough  to  subsist  on  while  there.  We  were  obliged  to  go  and  pick  the  corn,  which  we 
carried  to  their  house,  counted  the  ears,  and  paid  them  for  it.  A  striped  shirt,  or  a  bright 
handkerchief,  pleased  them  better  than  money.  This  valley  is-small,  like  all  the  valleys  that 
we  have  passed,  and  never  can  be  made  available,  on  account  of  the  inqiossibility  of  ever 
making  a  road  to  connect  them  with  each  other  anil  with  the  rest  of  the  world.  No  road  can 
ever  be  made  that  can  be  traversed,  except  by  mules,  ami  but  few  of  these  get  through  alive, 
as  all  there  is  for  them  to  subsist  on  for  a  great  ])art  of  the  distance  is  a  little  dry  grass — and 
this  not  often  found — the  mesquit,  and  a  few  thorny  shrubs  and  thistles. 

Monday,  September  -iil. — This  day  has  been  spent  in  making  preparations  for  our  journey. 
Exchanged  an  old  mule  for  a  liorse.  Traded  a  gun  for  a  very  fine  young  nude,  and  purchased 
another  horse.  We  have  now  six  horses  and  two  mules.  The  mule  we  p\irchased  at  Santa 
Gertrudes  gave  out  entirely.  We  procured  a  few  figs  and  a  little  green  corn,  which  is  all  we 
have  to  take  us  to  El  Hosario,  fourteen  days  distant,  to  which  jdace  we  have  obtained  a  guide 
to  go  with  ns.  From  San  I5orja  to  El  I'osario  there  ai'c  two  roads ;  the  one  known  as  the 
raountain-road.  and  which  is  a  continuation  of  the  one  we  have  becii.  travelUng  over,  and  the 
coast-road.     We  have  concluded  to  take  the  latter. 

Tuesday,  September  4th. — Left  San  Borja  at  seven  o'clock  with  our  guide,  and  travelled 
for  three  leagues  over  a  dry,  sandy  plain  to  a  place  where,  by  digging  in  the  sand,  we  pro- 
cured a  little  water.  We  rested  for  two  hours,  and  went  on  again  till  six  o'clock,  when  we 
encamped  under  some  mesquit-trces,  but  without  water.  We  cut  some  boughs  from  the 
trees  for  our  animals  to  browse  on  ;  there  was  uo  grass  for  them.   Made  about  25  miles  to-day. 


138  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

Wednesda)/,  September  5th. — Rose  at  four  o'clock,  and  were  under  way  as  soon  as  it  was 
light  enough  to  see  the  path.  Our  road  to-day  has  been  very  good,  mostly  over  sandy  and 
gravel  plains.  We  halted,  at  11  o'clock,  at  a  small  salt-marsh,  where  we  could  pick  up 
crystals  of  beautiful  salt,  and  our  shoes  and  clothing  were  incrusted  with  it.  There  is  a  fresh- 
water stream  that  makes  through  or  rises  in  the  valley  or  marsh.  The  water  is  good,  has  a 
slight  smell  of  sulphur,  but  is  cool  and  clear,  with  but  a  little  brackish  taste.  This  i.s  called 
San  Andres,  and  was  once  occupied  by  an  American  named  Gilbert,  but  who  has  abandoned 
it.  We  left  the  marsh  at  one  o'clock,  and  went  on  over  a  sandy  road  without  a  sign  of  vege- 
tation. One  horse  gave  out,  and  we  were  obliged  to  abandon  him.  We  encamped  at  5i  o'clock, 
near  some  brackish  water  which  we  procured  by  digging.  This  is  called  Santa  Catalina. — 25 
miles. 

Thursday,  Septemher  dth. — Left  at  four  o'clock,  and  had  a  good  road.  We  struck  the 
beach  this  forenoon  and  travelled  for  two  miles  along  on  the  sand ;  picked  up  a  few  clams. 
We  dug  for  water  in  a  little  swale,  where  we  found  it,  but  it  was  quite  salt.  We  went  out  into 
the  surf  to  some  rocks,  and  procured  a  few  muscles,  which  we  roasted,  and  also  found  some 
abalones,  which  we  cooked.  We  were  obliged  to  abandon  one  of  our  mules.  AVe  travelled 
about  three  hours  and  came  to  some  dry  grass  where  we  rested  for  the  night.  This  place  is 
called  San  Nicolas. 

Friday,  Septemher  1th. — Started  at  one  o'clock  this  morning,  travelling  by  moonlight  over 
a  very  good  road  for  five  hours.  We  are  obliged  to  move  slow,  as  our  animals  are  greatly  re- 
duced by  want  of  food  and  water.  At  six  o'clock  we  came  to  a  spring  of  fresh  water  called 
Pontia  el  Marcha.  Here  we  remained  until  nine  o'clock,  when  we  again  started.  We  went 
over  a  sandy  road,  with  no  signs  of  vegetation.  We  halted  near  the  beach  to  let  the  animals 
pick  at  the  sea-weeds  and  dry  grass.  The  mule  which  we  procured  at  San  Iguacio  gave  out 
in  the  afternoon,  and  we  were  obliged  to  leave  the  poor  creature  to  his  fate  in  a  barren  coun- 
try, with  but  little  food  and  no  water.  This  is  a  severe  blow  to  us,  as  he  has  been  a  service- 
able animal.  Davis  and  myself  led  and  drove  him  without  any  pack  for  five  hours,  in  hopes 
of  being  able  to  get  him  to  some  place  where  he  could  find  grass  and  water.  At  night  we 
found  a  little  dry  grass  but  no  water.  Tiie  road  to-day  has  been  comparatively  level,  over  sandy 
plains,  and  at  times  on  the  beach.  Our  provisions  are  getting  low,  but  we  think  we  shall  get 
through,  as  our  guide  appears  to  understand  the  country. 

Saturday,  September  8th. — It  is  six  months  to-day  since  we  left  New  York,  in  the  steamer 
Falcon,  at  which  time  we  expected  to  have  reached  San  Francisco  in  45  days.  We  started 
tiiis  morning  at  five  o'clock,  and  travelled  over  an  entirely  barren  but  level  country  till  eight 
o'clock,  when  we  reached  a  well  of  very  bitter  water.  Our  horses  drank  of  it,  and  we  went 
on.  T':iis  I'orenoon  my  horss  gave  out  and  fell  down  a  ravine  some  60  or  70  feet,  where  it  was 
impossible  to  get  him  out.  He  was  a  noble  creature,  and  I  had  got  very  much  attached  to  him, 
and  it  was  hard  to  part  under  such  circumstances,  but  tliere  was  no  help  for  it.  Our 
other  horses  are  failing,  and  we  fear  trouble  in  getting  along.  I  have  walked  entirely  for  the 
two  days  past,  leading  my  horse.  We  have  now  distributed  our  luggage  among  all  our  horses 
and  the  mule,  and  are  all  on  foot  ourselves  ;  and  travelling  over  a  level  but  barren  country, 
we  encamped  in  the  bed  of  a  dry  river.  We  have  this  afternoon  struck  off  toward  El  Rosario, 
leaving  San  Fernando  on  our  right.  Our  guide,  Capistan,  says  that  he  saveys  the  way,  and 
will  save  a  day  by  it.  We  find  we  have  too  much  baggage,  but  we  hope  to  get  it  to  El  Rosario, 
as  we  can  exchange  it  for  horses  and  mules.  No  one  should  ever  travel  througli  this  country 
who  does  not  start  well  equipped  with  mules,  and  his  means  should  not  be  in  money,  which  is 
of  little  consequence  to  the  natives,  but  sliould  consist  of  guns,  clothing,  medicine,  trinkets, 
etc.     Our  guide  brought  us  a  lot  of  muscles  winch  he  had  taken  from   the  rocks. 

Sunday,  S(ptembcr  dth. — Started  this  morning  early,  and  travelled  over  some  barren  hills 
and  mountains  covered  with  stones,  and  it  was  hard  travelling  for  ourselves  and  horses.  After 
a  time  we  struck  the  Ix-ach,  and  at  nine  o'clock  we  lualted  and  went  out  into  the  surf,  where 
we  gathered  a  quantity  of  muscles  from  the  rocks.  This  morning  another  horse  gave  out ;  this 
was  upon  the  side  of  a  mountain,  wdiich  it  was  impossible  for  him  to  climb.  We  sold  the 
saddle  to  our  guide.  We  started  again  and  passed  on  over  a  rolling  country.  Some  of  the 
hills  are  quite  steep,  but  cannot  be  called  mountains;  they  are  covered  whh  broken  stones. 
We  expected  to  reach  water  at  one  o'clock,  but  were  disappointed,  as  the  place  was  dry.  We 
went  on  for  an  hour,  when  we  came  to  a  low  place,  where  we  dug  for  water  and  found  it,  but 
it  was  very  salt.  We  drank  it,  however.  It  operated  as  a  cathartic.  Here  we  found  good 
grass  for  our  horses.     We  are  encamped  just  below  Point  San  Francisco. 

Monday,  September  lOlh. — This  is  a  day  which  we  shall  all  remember.  On  waking  this 
morning  and  going  for  our  animals,  we  found  that  our  mule  was  missing,  and  looking  for 
our  guide  he  was  not  to  be  found.  The  scoundrel  had  stolen  the  mule,  and  left  us  in  a 
barren,  inhospitable  country,  where  we  were  cntii'cly  unacciuaintcd  with  the  roads.  We 
trust  in  God  to  get  along,  but  He  only  knows  whether  avc  shall  get  through.  We  are  all 
in  good  health,  although  much  reduced  in  flesh,  and  our  misfortune  does  not  cast  us  down. 
On  ascertaining  our  loss  wc  determined  to  retrace  our  steps  to  where  we  left  the  road 
for  San  Fernandez.  We  packed  our  best  horse  and  put  some  on  the  other  two,  but  they  are 
reduced  so  low  that  thev  are  not  able  to  carry  much.  By  seven  o'clock  we  were  ready  for 
a  start.     We  left  a  saddle  and  some  clothing ;  followed "  the  tracks  we  made  yesterday  for 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  '     J  39 

most  of  the  day.  At  10  o'clock  another  horse  gave  out,  and  we  left  him,  with  a  saddle 
and  more  baggage.  Wo  stitick  the  beach  at  the  place  where  we  gathered  the  muscles ; 
gathered  a  quantity,  which  we  roasted,  and  went  on.  At  four  o'clock,  (ieorgc  Davis's  horse 
gave  out;  left  Iiim,  with  another  saddle.  This  leaves  us  but  one  horse  and  a  pack-saddle. 
We  soon  after  reached  tlie  place  where  we  encamped  on  Saturday  night.  Here  we  again 
dug  for  water,  and  after  several  attempts  we  struck,  at  the  foot  of  a  willow,  a  fine  spring 
of  good  fresh  water  without  a  particle  of  salt.  This  is  truly  a  God-send  to  us.  We  en- 
camped here  for  the  night,  (ieorgc  Davis  going  back  to  bring  up  his  horse,  which  we  had 
abandoned.     Spreading  our  blankets,  we  were  soon  asleep. 

Tu-'sdinj,  Sqitimbcr  Wth. — We  did  not  awake  this  morning  till  near  five  o'clock,  but  we  at 
once  prep.ired  our  packs  and  were  soon  under  way,  each  one  carrying  as  nmch  as  he  can. 
I  have  a  small  travelling-l)ag  with  my  clothing.  The  path  is  very  "blind,  but  we  knew  the 
general  direction,  and  kept  on.  It  is  impossible  to  keep  the  track  long,  but  we  find  our  marks 
iu  the  ravines.  The  hills  are  so  much  alike,  and  so  little  to  distinguish  one  from  another,  that 
it  would  trouble  one  unacquainted  with  the  country  to  get  along.  About  eight  o'clock  we  came 
to  the  place  where  we  left  the  road  on  Saturday,  and  took  it.  The  road  here  bears  nortli  and 
away  from  the  coast.  Our  horse  appears  to  stand  it,  and  we  are  in  hopes  of  getting  him 
through  to  San  Fernandez.  At  nine  o'clock  we  found  good  water ;  filling  our  pouches,  we 
started,  and  travelled  very  slow  over  a  heavy,  rolling  country — whicli  presents  the  same  bar- 
ren, unproductive  appearance  as  that  we  have  been  travelling  through  for  some  time — in 
about  an  hour  we  found  a  small  patch  of  dry  grass,  where  we  fed  our  horse.  Our  own  pro- 
visions are  getting  low.  We  cannot  have  more  than  50  figs  left.  Travelled  for  most  of  the 
afternoon  over  a  very  hilly  country,  crossing  some  mountains  similar  in  character  to  those  we 
crossed  south  of  San  Borja,  being  composed  of  sand  and  sandstone.  At  half-past  four  o'clock 
we  found  good  water  and  grass,  and  encamped  for  the  night.  We  have  travelled  slow  all  dav 
and  have  not  made  more  than  10  miles  on  our  course,  after  striking  the  road.  The  water 
here  is  a  little  bitter,  which  is  the  ease  with  much  that  we  find.  Foi-  several  nights  past  the 
fogs  have  been  very  heavy,  wetting  our  blankets  through. 

Weflnesdai/,  September  \1th. — Filling  our  bottles,  we  commenced  the  day,  and  travelled  for 
about  three  hours  in  the  bed  of  one  of  the  rivers.  The  sand  was  deep,  and  it  fotigued  us  and 
our  horse  very  much.  Nine  o'clock,  our  horse  appears  to  be  giving  out,  having  fallen  twice 
on  a  smooth  road.  Should  he  fail,  we  shall  be  obliged  to  abandon  a  considerable  quantity  of 
baggage.  6ur  provisions  are  nearly  gone,  and  there  is  no  hope  of  getting  any  thing  to  subsist 
on.  We  do  i;ot  find  the  fruits  of  the  cactus,  as  we  did  farther  south.  At  two  o'clock  our 
horse  fell  down  and  we  could  not  get  him  any  flirther.  We  killed  him,  and  from  his  hams 
cut  portions  of  meat,  and  building  a  fire,  cooked  and  ate  of  it.  This  was  a  hard  dutv,  but  our 
lives  depended  upon  it.  We  made  over  our  packs,  throwing  aside  such  articles  as"  we  could 
•  dispense  with  most  readily,  leaving  a  large  India-rubber  bagful.  Started  at  four  p.  m.,  and 
walked  over  a  very  rough  country,  and  encamped  among  the  mountains. 

Thursdai/,  September  13//i. — Started  at  daylight,  travelling  along  the  bed  of  one  of  the  dry 
rivers  of  which  the  country  is  full,  and  which,  on  account  of  the  deep  sand,  we  find  very  hard 
walking.  Found  water  this  morning.  This  is  much  better  than  any  we  have  found  for 
several  days -past,  as  most  of  it  has  been  very  bad.  We  have  crossed  some  high  hills  to-dav. 
The  weather  is  very  warm,  and  in  passing  through  some  of  the  ravines  it  is  almost  suffocating. 
We  are  not  able  to  carry  much  water,  and  each  man's  allowance  is  poured  out  for  him.  We 
have  suffered  greatly  for  want  of  water,  and  our  horseflesh  has  nearly  given  out.  Our  packs 
are  heavy,  but  the  belief  that  we  are  near  some  town  induces  us  to  keep  all  we  started  with. 
We  encamped  for  the  night  at  the  spring  of  water  that  we  found.  Travelled  about  10  miles 
to-day. 

Friday,  September  IWt. — Filled  our  bottles,  and  started  soon  after  daylight,  going  over 
hills  and  plains.  The  walking  has  been  better  to-day.  Found  a  little  fruit.  Some  varieties 
of  the  cactus  yield  a  very  pleasant  fruit,  and  if  we  are  fortunate  enough  to  get  it  before  the 
ants,  we  find  it  refreshing.  This  afternoon  we  passed  a  quantity  of  some  kind  of  ore  which 
was  strewn  over  the  ground ;  it  was  heavy,  and  had  tlie  appearance  of  antimony.  I  have 
broken  off  a  small  sample,  and  shall  take  it  with  me.  We  have  walked  very  fast  this  after- 
noon, hoping  to  find  water  to  pass  the  night  by.  Just  at  night  we  found  good  water,  and  on 
the  banks  we  discovered  fresh  tracks;  and  on  going  forward  a  mile,  the  mission  buildings  of 
San  Fernandez  were  in  sight.  It  was  dark  when  we  reached  them,  and  we  connnenced  a  search 
for  inhabitants,  going  into  the  ruins  of  the  church,  but  we  could  find  no  one,  and  we  spread 
our  blankets  under  some  pomegranate-trees,  on  which  there  was  no  fruit,  and  so  passed  the 
night. 

Salurdai/,  September  I5th. — Arose  early  this  morning  and  commenced  a  reconnoissance  of  the 
place,  and  in  passing  down  the  valley  we  discovered  two  huts  and  a  field  of  corn  and  melons. 
The  only  inhabitants  are  three  old  Indians.  One  of  the  men  made  us  a  dish  of  "  ortola," 
which  revived  us  very  much.  There  is  a  small  stream  of  water  running  through  the  vallev, 
which  is  used  for  irrigation.  Tiiere  are  no  grapes  or  figs  raised  here.  The  old  church  build! 
ings  are  entirely  in  ruins,  and  are  not  occupied  for  any  purpose.  We  are  not  able  to  procure 
horses  here,  and  shall  be  obliged  to  walk  to  El  Rosario,  and  we  have  concluded  to  go  on  this 
afternoon.     At  three  o'clock  we  started,  one  of  the  old  men  acting  as  guide  out  of  the  valley 


140  '  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AXD 

and  starting  us  on  the  right  road  ;  we  walked  about  six  miles,  having  crossed  two  mountains 
and  encamped  on  a  plain. 

Sundai/,  September  l&ih. — Started  this  morning  as  soon  as  ft  was  light,  and  crossed  several 
heavy  mountains.  Found  water  at  half-past  seven,  nine,  and  ten  o'clock.  At  the  last  place  we 
rested  for  an  hour,  taking  a  bath  and  filling  our  pouches ;  travelled  until  six  o'clock ;  passed  the 
night  among  the  mountains.  It  was  very  cold  and  unpleasant.  Have  walked  a  good  distance 
during  the  day,  and  are  nearly  worn  out  with  fatigue  and  hunger.  The  country  through  which 
we  passed  to-day  presents  the  same  barren,  unforbidding  appearance,  without  much  vegeta- 
tion.    A  few  mesquit  and  willows  are  all  that  can  be  seen. 

Mondaji,  September  nth. — As  soon  as  it  was  light  enough  for  us  to  see,  we  started.  We 
cannot  travel  very  fast,  as  our  feet  are  very  sore,  and  we  are  almost  worn  out  with  fatigue. 
Davis  and  Smith  are  quite  ill,  and  cannot  go  much  farther  without  help ;  and  as  we  know  that 
wfe  are  not  far  from  El  Kosario,  a  part  of  the  party  go  on,  and  if  we  find  any  one  will  send  re- 
lief to  them.  At  10  o'clock  we  saw  a  smoke  rising  from  behind  some  willows,  and  we  at  once 
went  down  into  the  ravine  and  found  some  Indian  huts.  The  Indians  were  cooking  some 
beans  and  we  obtained  them,  ate  a  few,  and  sent  back  to  our  companions  the  balance.  As 
soon  as  we  had  finished  these  we  proceeded  down  the  valley  to  the  casa  of  William  Ennis,  which 
is  situated  near  the  church  of  the  mission  of  El  Rosario.  This  is  the  most  extensive  valley  we 
have  yet  seen.  I  am  not  able  to  say  how  long  it  is,  but  think  about  five  or  six  miles  by  about 
a  mile  in  average  width.  The  soil  is  good,  but  is  but  little  cultivated.  There  were  formerly 
two  church  establishments  here,  but  they  are  now  both  in  ruins.     The  one  near  where  we  are 

stopping  is  now  used  as  a  sheep  and  cattle  pen.      We  find  here  Don  Js'icolas ,  who  is  on 

his  way  from  San  Diego  to  some  point  down  the  coast  on  the  gulf,  and  we  are  treating  with 
him  to  take  us  to  San  Diego.  He  has  10  mules.  We  learn  that  Cook  and  his  companions, 
who  left  San  Borja  two  days  before  us  and  took  the  mountain-road,  came  in  here  in  a  very 
destitute  and  miserable  condition,  having  lost  all  their  animals  but  one,  and  that  so'  reduced, 
that  they  were  obliged  to  leave  him  here.     It  would  be  hard  to  choose  between  the  two  routes. 

Tuesday,  SejAember  ISih. — Davis  and  Smith  are  both  better,  and  we  have  made  arrange- 
ments with  Don  Nicolas to  take  us  to  San  Diego,  and  are  to  start  on  Thursday  morn- 
ing. Have  made  a  map  of  our  route  for  the  last  week,  and  a  man  leaves  here  to-morrow  to 
try  and  find  some  of  our  abandoned  horses  and  goods.  They  tell  us  that  we  were  within  two 
days  of  El  llosario,  and  one  day  of  San  Fernandez,  when  our  guide  left  us. 

Wediicsda)/,  September  19fh. — We  begin  to-day  to  feel  in  earnest  the  effects  of  our  severe 
hardships  and  exposures.  We  are  not  disposed  to  stir  about,  but  wish  to  keep  as  quiet  as 
possible.  What  we  have  suflered  for  the  past  month  or  more  can  never  be  known  except 
by  ourselves,  and  can  only  be  appreciated  by  those  who  have  been  placed  in  similar  situations. 
What  with  the  want  of  food,  and  the  actual  suffering  for  the  want  of  water ;  foot-sore  and 
weary;  with  heavy  burdens  upon  our  backs  ;  with  the  sun  pouring  down  upon  the  already 
heated  sand  ;  at  times  literally  drenched  with  perspiration  ;  in  doubts  as  to  whether  we 
were  upon  the  road — it  is  a  perfect  marvel  that  we  have  got  through  as  well  as  we  have. 

Thursday,  September  20th. — I  passed  a  very  sick  night,  which  I  attribute  to  the  fact  of-eat- 
ing  so  much  green-food,  and  overloading  my  stomach,  as  when  we  arrived  here  we  were  nearly 
in  a  state  of  starvation,  and  could  not  control  our  appetites  when  food  was  placed  before  us. 
But,  as  we  had  named  this  morning  for  starting,  I  determined  to  go  on.  Left  El  Rosario  at 
nine  o'clock  with  our  contractor  and  his  son,  who  goes  with  us  to  San  Diego.  After  travelling 
a  few  miles,  I  threw  consideral)le  from  my  stomacli,  and  was  much  relieved.  We  rode  10 
leagues,  and  encamped  for  the  night  by  a  creek  of  fresh  water.  The  road  has  been  over  a 
barren  country  for  most  of  the  day. 

Friday,  September  21.')/. — Started  early  this  morning,  and  as  we  proceeded  up  the  road 
we  saw  some  persons,  who,  on  approaching,  we  recognized  as  some  of  our  companions  of  the 
sciiooner  San  Juan.  We  learned  that,  after  we  left  her  on  the  11th  of  August,  they  put  out 
to  sea,  and  in  a  gale  were  blown  off  the  coast  for  about  300  miles,  and  that  they  were  out  of 
provisions,  having  on  board  but  about  a  peck  of  rice  when  they  put  into  the  bay  of  San 
Simon,  and  they  pointed  her  out  to  us  a  short  distance  up  the  coast.  We  had  thus  met  after 
a  separation  of  45  days.  We  boarded  her,  and  procured  some  clothing  and  blankets;  bidding 
adieu  to  our  companions,  we  travelled  about  15  miles,  and  encamped  on  an  extensive  and  dry 
plain, 

Saturday,  September  22d. — Did  not  get  a  very  early  start,  as  some  of  the  mules  had 
broken  away  and  wandered  off  in  search  of  food  and  water.  After  starting,  some  of  us  went 
ahead,  our  guide  telling  us  to  go  on  till  wo  came  to  water  and  remain  till  he  came  up. 
Misunderstanding  him,  we  passed  the  water  some  five  miles,  when,  thinking  that  we  might 
not  be  on  the  right  road,  we  went  back  and  met  him.  He  intended  to  have  remained  at  the 
creek  for  a  rest,  and  then  move  on  to  a  ranch  to  pass  the  night;  but  we  had  disarranged  his 
plans,  as  there  was  no  water  for  a  long  distance  from  the  stream  we  had  passed.  Night  over- 
took us  two  leagues  short  of  the  rancli,  where  we  encamped.  The  country  through  which  we 
have  passed  to-day  has  been  very  sandy 

Sunday,  September  23d. — "San  Talmo  Meto."  Our  mules  broke  away  again,  and  it  was 
some  time  before  we  could  get  them.  One  had  gone  tln-ee  miles  in  search  of  water.  We 
were  not  long  in  reaching  this  ranch  after  we  got  started.      The  proprietor,  Ignacio  Arso,  is 


'    EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  141 

a  fino-lookincr,  portly  old  Spaniard — would  make  a  good  FalstafT.  After  brcakflist  wo  left, 
and  travelled  over  a. mountainous!  country  until  seven  o'clock,  when  we  reached  San  Rafael, 
which  is  a  more  cabin.     There  are  a  few  cattle  here. 

Jfondai/,  Si'ptanbcr  2lth. — From  San  Rafael  we  passed  over  an  uneven  but  fair  road  for 
four  and  a  half  leagues,  when  we  arrived  at  the  ranch  El  Salado,  o\vned  by  a  cousin  of  our 
guide,  Don  Nicolas,  and  brother  of  our  first  guide  from  San  Jose  de  Grace  to  San  Ignacio-^ 
.luan  Jose — and  we  received  a  cordial  welcome.  At  i)resent  the  ranch  is  only  for  grazing, 
but  Scuor  Marie,  the  proprietor,  is  now  busy  making  adobes  for  a  new  house,  and  he  intends 
to  bring  in  a  stream  of  water  for  irrigation;  this  will  enable  him  to  raise  all  kinds  of  fruits 
and  vegetables.  The  valley  is  quite  extensive,  and  the  soil  appears  to  be  good.  We  spent 
the  entire  day  at  El  Salado,  and  we  are  to  exchange  two  of  our  mules  for  two  horses. 

TiteKfiai/,  September  'I'M. — Did  not  get  an  early  start,  as  our  two  horses  did  not  come  in 
till  about  I'i  o'clock.  At  two  we  started  and  rode  to  San  Vicente,  three  and  a  half  leagues, 
an  excellent  ranch.  The  road  and  country  are  uneven  and  rough^  but,  as  we  are  well  mounted 
and  have  no  cares,  we  got  along  finely.  Our  guide  is  perfectly  acquainted  with  every  mile  of 
the  road.  At  this  ranch  they  raise  corn  and  melons,  but  we  find  no  fruit.  We  slept  to-night 
under  a  roof,  which  we  found  a  great  protection,  as  the  heavy  dews  every  night  wet  our  blank- 
ets through. 

Wednesdaif,  September  26//i. — Leaving  San  Vicente,  we  passed  over  a  rolling  country  to 
Guadalupe,  one  and  a  half  leagues  distant.  The  ranch  is  beautifully  situated,  with  high  moun- 
tains surrounding  it.  The  amount  of  arable  land  is  small  but  productive.  The  houses  are  much 
belter  than  any  we  have  seen  before.  They  have  good  beds  and  bedsteads,  which  are  the  first 
we  have  met  with,  as  in  all  other  places  the  natives  sleep  upon  a  dry  hide  on  the  ground  or 
stretched  on  a  frame.  They  are  also  supplied  with  tables  and  benches.  At  one  o'clock  we 
were  again  in  our  saddles,  travelling  over  a  very  mountainous  road.  We  encamped  at  six 
o'clock,  when  we  found  grass. 

Thurs'laii,  Sej)te»iber  'I'Jth. — Started  this  morning  at  six  o'clock,  and  rode  for  two  hours 
over  a  very  mountainous  country  to  San  Tomas.  The  church  at  this  mission  is  nearly  in 
ruins.  The  padre  was  not  here  when  we  arrived,  so  that  I  could  not  deliver  my  letter  which 
the  padre  at  San  Ignacio  Avas  so  kind  as  to  give  mo.  This  letter,  which  was  open,  was  of  con- 
siderable service  to  us  on  our  way.  We  made  but  a  short  halt  at  San  Tomas,  and  passed  on 
for  two  leagues  to  La  Greuria,  passing  one  very  high  mountain  on  the  way.  From  La 
Grcuria  we  rode  over  a  very  good  road,  but  through  a  rather  barren  country,  for  four  hours, 
and  encamped  on  an  extensive  plain  just  at  dark.     No  water  here. 

Fridu!/,  September  2Sth. — At  an  early  hour  we  were  in  our  saddles  and  rode  to  Ensenado 
or  Todos  Santos,  passing,  for  most  of  the  way,  over  dry  plains  and  sandy  hills.  This  ranch 
is  situated  in  an  extensive  valley,  and  is  owned  by  Seiior  Francisco  Gustalo,  an  elegant  Span- 
ish gentleman,  who  has  many  of  the  conveniences  of  civilized  life  about  him.  We  found  here 
clean  tables,  with  table  furniture.  The  first  knives  and  forks  we  have  seen  in  the  country  we 
found  here.  Leaving  Todos  Santos  at  three  o'clock,  we  passed  over  quite  a  level  country, 
encamping  at  dark  under  a  large  oak-tree,  the  branches  of  which  cover  an  immense  space. 
Our  guide  told  us  that  the  Indians  about  here  are  "  muy  bravos,"  and  cautioned  us  to  have 
our  weapons  ready,  which  we  did. 

Sitttirdai/,  September  2Qth. — Started  this  morning  at  half-past  six  o'clock,  and  travelled  over 
a  very  mountainous  road  for  four  or  five  leagues  to  San  Miguel.  The  mountain  which  we 
descended  on  entering  the  valley  is  one  of  the  worst  we  have  encountered  in  our  travels.  It 
is  almost  perpendicular,  and  the  descent  was  very  difficult.  This  valley  is  quite  extensive,  and 
there  appear  to  be  several  ranches  farther  up,  where  corn  and  melons  are  raised.  We  have 
passed  through  immense  fields  of  wild  oats  and  mustard,  where  large  numbers  of  horses  and 
cattle  are  grazing.  The  Indians  about  here  are  represented  as  being  very  troublesome.  San 
Miguel  is  one  of  thc'old  missions,  whose  church  buildings  are  now,  like  the  others,  in  ruins. 
Travelling  over  a  very  good  road,  we  arrived  at  half-past  seven  o'clock  at  the  mission  of  El 
Descanso. 

Suiidai/,  Sejttemfier  30th. — Our  mules  are  in  such  a  condition  that  our  guide  says  he  can 
go  no  farther  to-day,  and  we  shall  be  obliged  to  remain  here  until  to-morrow  morning. 
This  is  very  annoying,  as  we  are  now  near  San  Diego,  and  arc  anxious  to  get  forward.  The 
old  church  at  this  mission  is  occupied  as  a  sheep-pen,  and  a  family  live  in  a  part  of  the  estab- 
lishment that  has  a  roof  remaining.  The  mountains  about  here  have  a  barren  appearance, 
but  the  valleys  produce  grass  for  the  cattle. 

Mondai/,  Oetobcr  1st. — Leaving  El  Descanso  in  the  morning,  we  travelled  over  a  very  good 
road,  but  through  a  very  dry  country,  for  four  and  a  half  leagues,  to  an  Indian  ranch,  situated 
in  a  pretty  little  valley,  where  we  halted  an  hour,  and,  passing  on,  rode  over  a  very  good  road 
to  a  small  valley  which  we  entered  just  at  dark,  and  encamped  without  any  water  for  ourselves 
or  animals. 

Tuesday,  October  2d. — Were  in  our  saddles  at  seven  o'clock,  travelling  over  a  fine  road 
until  eleven,  when  we  came  to  tiie  camp  of  the  American  and  Mexican  boundary  commissioners. 
Here  I  met  A.  B.  Gray,  Esq.,  of  the  American  commission,  whom  I  had  known  in  New  York, 
and  who  extended  every  kindness  to  us.  We  receive  here  the  first  news  from  the  United 
States  that  we  have  heard  for  six  months,  and  we  literally  devoured  a  copy  of  the  New  York 


242  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND       ' 

Tribune  that  we  found  in  camp.  From  this  we  learn  of  the  death  of  President  Polk,  Mrs.  Madi- 
son, Mr.  Ogden,  and  others;  and  that  the  cholera  has  been  raging  in  the  United  States.  This 
camp  is  nine  miles  from  San  Diego.  Spending  an  hour  at  the  camp,  we  rode  on  and  arrived 
in  the  afternoon  at  San  Diego.  The  carpenter  of  the  surveying  commission,  as  soon  as  we 
arrived,  invited  us  to  his  tent,  giving  free  access  to  every  thing  he  had,  and  the  name  of  Moses 
M.  Conner  will  always  be  remembered  with  peculiar  satisfaction. 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  143 


EEPORT  OF  DR.  JOIIX  A.  VEATCII  ON  CERROS   OR 
CEDROS  ISLAND. 

CERROS    OR    CEDROS    ISLAND. 

Looking  at  a  chart  of  the  coast  of  Lower  California,  about  midway  betwixt  Cape  San  Lucas 
and  San  Diego,  fronting  the  great  bay  of  San  Sebastian  Viscaino,  the  ishmd  of  Cerros,  or 
Cedroi?,  will  be  observed,  between  the  parallels  of  28"  and  29'  N.  (See  Appendix  K.)  lu 
Lippincott's  Gazetteer  its  position  is  given  as  in  latitude  28°  12'  N.  and  longitude  115'  29'  W. 
The  point  assumed  is  probably  that  of  the  well-known  watering-place  on  the  east  side  of  the 
island,  about  one-third  its  length  from  the  southern  end.  It  is  correctly  laid  down  on  the 
old  Spanish  charts,  and  was  doubtless  visited  by  the  early  explorers  of  the  coast  more  than 
250  years  ago.  The  remains  of  rude  huts  along  the  shore,  and  occasionally  in  the  interior, 
probably  mark  some  of  their  temporary  sojourning-places. 

The  bay  was  named  after  Don  Sebastian  Viscaino,  who  was  sent  by  the  Viceroy  of  Mexico, 
Don  Gaspar  Zuniga,  in  the  year  1G02,  to  survey  the  coast  of  Lower  California.  Cedros  lies 
immediately  west  of  the  bay,  and  forms,  with  the  island  of  Xatividad,  a  kind  of  enclosure  for 
the  southern  portion  of  it.  It  is  about  thirty  miles  in  length,  due  north  and  south,  com- 
mencing in  a  narrow  but  lofty  and  precipitous  headland  at  the  north,  and  gradually  expand- 
ing to  a  breadth  of  about  eighteen  miles  at  the  southern  extremity,  with  an  average  width  of 
ten  miles. 

From  the  extreme  southeastern  portion  of  the  island,  to  Point  San  Eugenio  en  the 
mainland,  is  a  distance  of  twenty  miles.  About  midway  lies  the  barren  sandstone  island  of 
Natividad,  above  named,  five  miles  in  length,  pointing  east  and  west,  and  some  half  mile  in 
width.  It  is  about  six  hundred  feet  in  height.  Its  position  serves  as  a  barrier  to  the  southern 
winds  and  waves,  thus  aiding  Cerros  and  Point  San  Eugenio  to  fence  hi,  so  to  speak,  the  southern 
part  of  the  bay.  This  sheltered  condition  and  the  fresh  water  on  Cerros  attracting  passing 
vessels,  may  account  for  the  early  correct  knowledge  of  this  portion  of  the  coast ;  while  the 
magnificent  bay  of  Magdalena,  much  farther  south,  remained  almost  unknown,  until  Sir 
Edward  Belcher,  in  1839,  and  Du  Petit  Thouars,  about  the  same  time,  surveyed  and  puljlished 
charts  of  it.  The  eastern  side  of  the  island  has  long  lieen  a  place  of  resort  for  whalers  and 
coasting-vessels  as  a  watering-place.  A  more  comfortable  and  convenient  point  for  the 
purpose  could  hardly  be  found.  A  spring  of  water,  not  exceeding  thirty  feet  from  the  margin 
of  the  sea,  with  an  anchorage  scarcely  a  cable's  length  away,  protected  from  the  prevailing 
winds,  with  scarce  a  ripple  on  the  surface,  renders  the  filling  and  taking  on  board  of  casks  an 
easy  task. 

I  spent  the  months  of  June,  July,  and  August,  in  the  year  1859,  on  this  island.  The 
object  was  to  search  for  minerals,  especially  copper  ores.  It  was  believed,  from  some  cause 
or  other,  that  a  very  large  vein  of  the  latter  ore,  of  great  richness,  existed  somewhere  on  the 
island.  No  nearer  designation  of  the  locality  than  "  somewhere  on  the  island "  could  be 
obtained.  The  evidences  were,  however,  sufficient  to  induce  a  few  capitalists  of  San  Fran- 
cisco to  fit  out  an  expedition  to  find  the  coveted  treasure.  I  engaged  to  conduct  the 
exploration.     The  following  observations  I  gathered  during  my  three  months'  labors : — 

TOPOGRAPHY    AXD    GEOLOGICAL    FORMATION. 

The  general  appearance  of  the  island  is  broken  and  rugged  in  the  extreme.  The  sombre 
and  pensive  grandeur  of  its  barren  peaks  attracts  in  a  forcible  manner  tiie  attention  of  passing 
voyagers.  On  a  near  approach  to  the  eastern  side,  the  naked  granitic  cliffs  of  the  north, 
and  the  broken,  upheaved,  and  contorted  slate  strata  of  the  south,  present  striking  and 
interesting  features.  The  whole  island  at  a  little  distance  presents  the  look  as  if  a  collection 
of  mountain-peaks  had  been  compressed  together  and  planted  by  the  Titans  amid  the  restless 
sea-waves. 

On  reaching  the  field  of  operations,  I  spent  the  first  few  days  in  examining  the  east  side 
of  the  island  in  a  whale-boat,  landing  at  practicable  points,  and  clambering  into  the  interior. 
The  topography  was  slowly  developed,  and  a  degree  of  order  found  in  the  seeming  inextricable 
confusion.  Three  parallel  mountain-ranges,  in  close  proximity  with  each  other,  cross  the 
island  diagonally  from  tiie  southwest  to  the  northeast.  Toward  their  centre,  and  thence  to 
their  eastern  terminus,  the  ranges  culminate  in  several  sharp  peaks,  and  finally  terminate  in 
abrupt  precipices,  descending  perpendicularly  into  the  waters  of  the  bay.  The  most  southerly 


144  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

of  the  series  is  the  least  elevated.  It  commences  at  the  south  end  of  the  island — about  the 
centre — and  forms  the  east  side  of  South  Bay.  Its  formation  is  of  slate,  shale,  and  sandstone, 
portions  of  which  are  highly  fossiliferous,  and  present  an  attractive  field  to  the  palfeontologist. 
The  axis  and  western  side  of  the  range  are  highly  metamorphosed— the  fossils  being  found  only 
on  the  eastern  side.  Masses  of  serpentine,  associated  with  chromic  iron,  are  found  at  several 
points  on  this  range. 

The  second  range  commences  at  and  forms  the  southwest  extremity  of  the  island  as  well 
as  the  southwest  side  of  South  Bay.  It  is  a  bold  basaltic  headland — a  huge  truncated  coue, 
regular  as  an  artificial  structure  when  seen  from  a  distance,  but  rough  and  ragged  in  surface 
on  a  closer  view.  It  is  about  eight  hundred  feet  high.  In  a  short  description  of  the  island, 
published  soon  after  my  return,  I  called  this  remarkable  promontory  "  Mount  Lent,"  after 
William  M.  Lent,  of  San  Francisco,  of  the  firm  of  Lent,  Sherwood  &  Co.,  under  whose  auspices 
the  expedition  was  mainly  fitted  out.  From  this  origin  the  range  proceeds  northeasterly 
with  considerably  less  elevation,  in  a  sharply-serrated  ridge,  a  distance  of  some  six  miles,  when 
it  ascends  rapidly  in  height  and  forms  the  three  peaks,  the  most  southerly  of  the  quintuple 
group  seen  by  passing  ships.  The  one  nearest  the  northern  termination  of  the  range,  viz., 
near  the  east  side  of  the  island,  was  found  by  barometric  measurement  to  be  about  3,600  feet 
above  the  sea-level.  I  named  it  "  Mount  Ayres,"  after  Dr.  WiUiam  0.  Ayres,  Corresponding 
Secretary  of  the  California  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences.  It  is  the  highest  peak  on  the 
island,  except  one  in  tlie  northern  range.  I  give  the  height  as  an  approximation.  The 
observations  I  directed  to  be  made  with  an  aneroid  at  the  station  camp,  near  the  sea-level, 
during  my  examination  of  the  peaks,  were  so  far  neglected  as  to  give  little  or  no  aid  in  correct- 
ing my  own  observations. 

This  chain  is  mostly  basaltic,  with  metamorphic  slate  and  hornblende  rock.  Serpentine, 
with  heavy  masses  of  chromic  iron,  is  to  be  found  at  intervals  along  the  whole  range.  I  have 
designated  it  as  the  middle  or  Mount  Ayres  Range. 

The  third  or  northern  range  rises  on  the  west  and  runs  in  the  same  oblique  direction  to 
the  eastern  side  of  the  island.  The  axis  of  this  range  gradually  assumes  a  more  northern 
direction,  and  finally  terminates  at,  and  forms  the  north  end  of  the  island — an  enormous 
precipice  of  probably  two  thousand  feet  in  height. 

There  are  three  peaks  on  this  range,  one  of  which  I  estimated  to  be  two  hundred  feet 
higher  than  Mount  Ayres.  The  formation  is  granite,  porphyry,  and  basalt.  Many  curious 
and  interesting  features  exist.  In  one  place  a  group  of  basaltic  pillars  occurs.  They  are 
mostly  pentagonal,  of  from  four  to  six  inches  on  the  side ;  they  dip  about  45^  to  the  south. 
The  base  of  the  mountain  at  one  point  is  a  dark-colored  porphyry,  much  diked  by  a  lighter- 
colored  rock  of  tlie  same  character.  Toward  the  summit  the  latter  overspreads  the  first 
entirely,  and  forms  the  crest  of  one  of  the  peaks.  The  island  partakes  of  the  volcanic  and 
igneous  character  of  the  adjacent  mainland. 

The  Mount  Ayres  and  north  ranges  are  separated  by  two  ravines  heading  close  together 
near  the  centre  of  the  island  and  running  to  opposite  sides,  one  to  the  east  and  the  other  to 
the  west.  These  ravines  form  an  easy  passway  across  the  island.  That  on  the  east  expands 
into  a  kind  of  valley,  half  a  mile  wide  at  the  mouth.  It  is  designated  as  Dearing's  Gulch  or 
Valley — named  for  Captain  R.  N.  Dearing,  well  known  on  the  Pacific  coast  as  a  whaling  com- 
mander. Up  this  valley  or  ravine  and  down  the  opposite  gulcli  there  is  an  easy  passway  from- 
one  side  to  the  other  of  the  island.  The  dividing  ridge  is  about  1,500  feet  high.  A 
good  road  might  be  made,  witli  very  little  expense,  up  Dearing's  Valley  to  the  summit,  the 
grade  being  very  regular  and  gradual.  A  grove  of  pines  crowns  the  crest  of  the  third  range,  • 
and  almost  overhangs  tlie  right  side  of  the  valley,  about  three  and  a  half  miles  up  it.  On  the 
left  side  opposite  there  are  good  springs  of  water.  There  is  a  fine  landing-place,  and  the 
schooner  Odd  Fellow,  Captain  Howes,  lay  at  anchor  near  the  shore  during  part  of  our  stay. 

There  arc  several  otiicr  landing-places  between  this  and  the  north  end  of  the  island. 
Wherever  ravines  have  broken  through  tlic  front  wall,  comfortable  landings  can  be  effected.  A 
large  ravine,  six  miles  north  of  Dearing's  Valley,  affords  good  water,  less  than  a  mile  from 
the  shore.  Indeed,  springs  occur  in  nearly  every  ravine ;  all  about  on  the  same  level,  say  six 
hundred  or  eight  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  Toward  the  north  end  these  springs  become 
brackish,  aiul  larthcr  on  intensely  salt.  This  is  to  be  regretted,  as  at  the  extreme  north  there 
is  probably  a  valuable  lode  of  gold,  if  not  several  of  them.  Of  this  I  shall  have  occasion  to 
speak  further  on. 

GENERAL     SURFACE. 

The  terms  "rough  and  broken"  miglit  be  applied  to  the  southern  extremity,  and  convey 
some  idea  of  the  actual  condition  ;  but  the  addition  of  "  craggy  and  precipitous  "  would  convey 
but  a  faint  notion  of  the  confused  jumbling  of  sharp  ridges,  deep  ravines  with  perpendicular 
walls,  high  peaks  and  beetling  ditls,  of  the  northern  portion  of  the  island. 

The  southeasterly  portion,  flanking  the  first  range,  is  far  less  rough  and  much  more 
accessible  than  any  other  part.  By  means  of  the  ravines  that  open  into  the  sea  the  summit 
of  the  range  can  easily  be  reached.  Tiiis  is  important,  as  the  ravines  have  laid  bare  many 
masses  of  chromic  iron,  wdiicli  might  be  transported  along  their  beds  to  the  shore.     This 


EXPLORATIOX    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  145 

condition  of  surface  extends  on  the  east  side  up  to  the  ships'  waterins:^-p!acc'.  Beyond 
that,  north,  especially  above  Dealing's  Valley,  is  found  the  utter  confusion  above  described. 

The  existence  of  numerous  deep  ravines  excavated  in  the  solid  rock,  and  that  cut  and 
score  the  mountain-sides  from  near  their  summits  to  the  sea-shore,  deepening  and  widening 
as  they  descend,  puzzled  nic  greatly  at  first  to  account  for  tlieir  formation.  They  were 
evidently  water-worn,  and  j)resented  the  appearance  of  the  channels  of  our  California  rivers, 
where  they  cut  through  the  solid  rocks  of  the  slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  Such  streams 
certainly  never  existed  on  the  island  ;  how,  then,  were  these  ravines  made  V  It  soon  became 
apparent  that  the  sea  itself  had  formed  them  as  the  island  was  gradually  uplifted.  The 
immense  quantities  of  boulders  and  rounded  pebbles  of  every  size,  hurled  by  each  wave 
against  the  foee  of  the  perpendicular  cliffs,  wear  tliera  irregularly,  as  they  present  a  harder 
or  softer  surface.  A  slight  cavity  once  made  has  its  floor  covered  with  heavy  pebbles  at  each 
lift  of  the  sea,  which  roll  back  as  the  wave  retires,  thus  scouring  and  wearing  with  never- 
ceasing  action.  As  the  shore  is  gradually  upheaved,  a  ravine  is  the  result.  This  excavating 
process  can  be  seen  actually  at  work  now  in  numerous  spots  on  the  east  side.  Some  of  the 
ravines  have  just  been  commenced;  others  are  a  few  yards  in  length,  just  lifting  their  heads 
above  the  sea ;  while  others  again  stretch  away  to  near  the  summit ;  whilb  tons  of  stones  are 
forever  swept  in  and  out  with  a  growling,  melancholy  sound,  deepening  and  widening  their 
mouths. 

These  ravines  attest  the  gradual  upheaval  of  the  island.  There  are  other  sea-piarks  dis- 
connected with  any  ravines,  proving  the  same  fact.  On  the  side  of  Mount  Ayres,  two  thou- 
sand feet  high,  a  horizontal  water-worn  line  is  to  be  traced,  once  marking  the  water  level.  At 
that  period  the  peaks  alone  were  above  the  surface,  presenting  a  cluster  of  rocky  islets. 

There  are  proofs,  too,  of  the  alternations  of  depressions  and  upheavals.  At  one  point 
near  the  middle  of  the  island  the  stratifieation  of  the  slate  stands  perpendicular,  but  much 
bent  and  contorted,  rising  out  of  the  sea  some  fifty  or  one  hundred  feet  in  elevation.  On  that 
is  laid  an  immense  mass  of  perfectly  horizontal  slates,  many  hundred  feet  in  thickness.  The 
same  thing  occurs  on  the  mainland  at  San  Bartolome  ]3ay,  a  little  south  of  Point  Eugenio. 

BAYS    AND    nAPwBORS. 

SouTii  Bat,  in  the  southwest  extremity  of  the  island,  is  the  only  bay  of  importance.  It 
is  formed,  as  before  stated,  by  the  projection  of  the  first  and  second  ranges  at  their  southern 
extremities  into  the  sea,  holding  the  bay  betwixt  them.  It  is  a  snug,  quiet  place,  sheltered 
from  the  prevailing  winds,  but  open  to  southwest  blows,  which,  however,  I  am  informed  do 
not  often  occur.  There  are  seven  fathoms  of  water  up  close  to  the  shore.  The  anchorage  is 
excellent.  There  are  a  few  rocks  covered  at  high  tide,  rendering  caution  necessary  in  enter- 
ibg.  The  shore  is  a  shelving,  sandy  beach,  and  was,  in  the  palmy  days  of  sea-elephant  hunt- 
.ing,  a  great  slaughtering-ground.  Many  interesting  shells  are  found  here.  The  Chinese  visit 
the  bay  for  the  purpose  of  collecting  abelone  shells  and  preparing  their  flesh.  From  the  num- 
ber of  stone  huts  on  its  margin,  having,  many  of  them,  a  very  autifpiated  appearance,  I  judge 
this  bay  to  have  been  the  recipient  of  protracted  visits  for  many  years  back. 

I  observed  head-boards  marking  the  graves  of  several  New  Bedford  seamen,  I  suppose  from 
whaling-ships.  There  are  no  bays  or  harbors  of  any  kind  on  the  west  side  of  the  island.  The 
northwest  winds,  and  the  waves  they  raise,  beat  forever  against  the  rock-bound  shore,  fring- 
ing with  a  line  of  surf  the  entire  length  of  the  island. 

The  eastern  side  of  the  island  is  one  great  harbor  its  entire  length.  Sir  Edward  Belcher 
speaks  of  the  importance  of  Magdalena  Bay  as  a  point  from  which  the  coast  of  Mexico  and 
California  could  be  observed  in  case  of  a  war.  Cerros  Island  and  the  bay  of  Viscaiiio  would, 
doubtless,  be  far  more  eligible  for  such  a  purpose,  as  the  harbor  would  admit  of  ingress  or 
egress  with  any  wind. 

The  anchorage  is  excellent  everywhere,  especially  toward  tlie  south.  The  water  is  gen- 
erally as  smooth  on  the  surfivce  as  a  small  lake.  Tliere  was  no  d.iy  during  my  stay  that  a 
small  boat  might  not  have  been  sculled  ashore  by  a  single  man  from  a  vessel  lying  in  the  har- 
bor, without  risk  or  danger  from  the  surf. 

On  the  shore  side  of  the  bay  of  Viscaino,  opposite  Cerros,  is  the  entrance  to  Seammon's 
Lagoon.  The  whaling-ground  and  the  salt-fields  to  which  it  leads  have  rendered  it  a  point 
of  no  inconsiderable  importance.  I  cannot  do  bettor  than  to  introduce  Captain  Seammon's 
notes  on  this  as  well  as  the  Ballcnas  Ligoon,  and  on  the  coast  of  Lower  California  generally. 
These  notes  were  kindly  placed  at  my  disposal,  together  with  the  accompanying  charts  and 
sailing  directions,  not  heretofore  published.  These  notes  and  charts  give  the  only  reliable 
information  in  detail  of  this  part  of  the  coast.  Captain  Seammon's  observations  arc  as  fol- 
lows : 

"Seammon's  Lagoon  was  first  commercially  and  geographically  known  in  the  year  1855. 
The  entrance  is  wide  enough  to  aflbrd  a  beating  chaiuiel  for  vessels  of  2o0  or  300  tons, 
that  do  not  draw  more  than  12  feet.  There  are  three  fathoms  at  high  water  in  ordi- 
nary tides  on  the  bar,  and  the  channel  is  so  plainly  marked  by  the  line  of  breakers  on  tlie  south 
side,  there  is  no  difficulty  in  sailing  in.     After  once  entering  the  true  channel,  vessels  of  40O 

10 


346  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

tons,  drawing  15  feet,  have  passed  the  bar  in  safety  going  in,  but  have  been  obliged  to  wait  a 
■fair  wind  out  again. 

"  I  have  beat  out  over  the  bar  twice  in  rough  weather,  without  difficulty,  in  a  ship  of  300 
tons,  drawing  12  feet.  Vessels  now  run  regularly  between  San  Francisco  and  this  lagoon, 
bringing  return-cargoes  of  salt,  which  they  procure  at  the  head  of  the  lagoon,  from  natural 
salt-ponds — an  almost  inexhaustible  uantity. 

"  Both  Scaramon's  and  Ballenas  Lagoons  are  fronted  by  low  sand-hills,  and  shoal  water 
'extends  a  long  way  off  shore.  If  bound  for  Scammon's  Lagoon,  the  land  should  be  approached 
within  two  or  three  miles,  in  latitude  about  28^  41  N.  Keep  the  coast  aboard,  if  clear 
weather,  and  run  along  the  southward,  where  you  will  see  '  Lagoon-head.'  It  makes  like  an 
island;  steer  a  course  to  pass  a  mile  to  the  westward,  and  if  near  night  you  may  anchor  under 
Lagoon-head,  and  await  daylight,  when,  with  the  accompanying  chart  as  a  guide,  there  is  no 
difficulty  in  finding  the  entrance  and  passing  the  bar  with  a  commanding  breeze. 

"  Ballenas  Lagoon  is  situated  near  the  head  of  the  open  bay  of  Ballenas,  in  latitude  26°  40' 
N.  and  longitude  113°  15'  W.  This  lagoon  was  first  geographically  known  in  the  year  1860. 
In  the  month  of  December,  1S60,  a  fleet  of  four  whaling-vessels,  under  my  command,  passed 
the  bar  and  entered  the  lagoon  in  safety.  We  entered  by  the  North  Channel,  which  is  not 
more  than  half  a  cable's  length  wide  ;  and  12  feet  of  water  is  all  that  can  be  depended  on  in 
crossing  the  bar  at  high  water  with  average  tides;  but  where  theshoalest  is,  there  is  but  little 
or  no  swell.  In  the  Soufh  Channel  there  is  15  feet  of  water  at  high  tide,  but  much  more 
swell.  The  only  safe  way  we  found  to  pass  the  bar  of  this  lagoon  was,  first  to  sound  out  the 
channel  and  put  buoys  at  convenient  distances  apart  in  mid-channel.  South  Channel  is  about 
the  same  width  as  the  North,  and  the  distance  across  the  bar  is  not  more  than  a  cable's 
length. 

"Neither  of  these  channels  would  be  of  any  practical  use,  if  it  were  not  for  the  certainty  of 
the  strong  land  and  sea  breezes  which  make  a  fair  wind  to  pass  either  in  or  out  of  the  l^igoon. 

"  In  tlie  months  of  December  and  January,  and  a  part  of  February,  north  and  northeast 
winds  prevail,  which  destroy  the  heavy  ocean-swell  that  prevails  at  other  seasons  of  the  year. 
During  the  smooth  season  there  is  but  little  difficulty  in  sounding  the  channel  with  boats,  and 
placing  buoys  as  you  please.  Neither  wood  nor  water  can  be  procured  at  this  place.  A 
'  ranchero,'  who  lived  eighteen  miles  inland,  furnished  the  vessels  with  plenty  of  cattle  to 
kill  for  beef.  The  price  was  usually  about  sixteen  dollars  for  a  bullock.  From  the  head  of 
this  lagoon  to  the  east  coast  of  the  peninsula — to  the  shore  of  the  Gulf  of  California — is  only 
about  40  miles ;  and  we  frequently  had  people  from  Loreto  and  to  visit  the  vessel  for  the 
purpose  of  trade,  bringing  dried  figs,  dates,  and  the  wild  oranges  of  the  country,  to  exchange 
for  bread,  flour,  and  clothing." 

NOTES  ON  THE  COAST  OP  LOWER  CALIFORNIA. 

"In  sailing  along  the  coast  of  Lower  California,  I  have  always  made  it  a  rule  to  never  run 
a  ship  through  thick  kelp  before  sounding  it.  By  adopting  this  plan  I  avoided  all  hidden 
dangers,  for  tlie  space  of  eight  years,  which  time  I  was  almost  constantly  cruising  close  along 
the  shores  and  in  the  bays  or  lagoons  adjacent. 

"  Formerly  there  was  a  great  deal  of  kelp  along  the  coast,  but  from  some  cause  in  1861  it 
almost  entirely  disappeared,  and  up  to  tlie  spring  of  1863  had  not  grown  again  to  any  extent. 

"  Deeming  the  information  might  possibly  be  worth  the  reading,  the  following  remarks  are 
made : 

"  From  San  Martin's  Island  to  San  Gcronimo  Island,  which  lie  north  and  south,  and  south 
of  the  port  of  San  Quentin,  there  are  many  shoal  places,  and  rocks,  which  are  not  laid  down 
on  any  charts  of  the  present  day.  Off  San  Quentin,  bearing  about  south  by  compass,  distance 
five  or  six  miles,  a  rock  or  shoal  exists  that  the  sea  breaks  heavily  upon  in  moderately  rough 
weather.  Much  foul  ground  is  found  between  San  Geronimo  Island  and  the  mainland.  Rocks 
exist  in  the  jiassage  betwixt  the  islands  of  Ccrros  and  Natividad,  but  nothing  that  will  bring 
a  ship  up  till  near  the  shore  on  either  side.  The  passage  between  Natividad  and  the  main 
should  not  be  attempted  by  those  unacquainted,  as  it  is  known  that  one  ship  has  been  seri- 
ously injured  by  striking  a  rock  in  going  through  in  tlie  night. 

"At  Ccrros  Island,  at  the  east  side,  near  the  southeast  end,  there  is  a  small  stream  of 
water  comincr  from  the  side  of  a  mountain,  near  the  liase  and  running  close  to  the  beach. 
From  1,200  to  l,5(iO  gallons  of  water  may  l)e  procured  dining  24  hours'  time.  The  casks  arc 
filled  by  rolling  them  to  the  ui)per  side  of  the  beach,  and  laying  a  spout  from  the  stream  to 
the  bung-hole  of  the  cask.  The  watpr  is  difficult  to  find,  and  the  only  sure  way  of  finding  it 
is  to  begin  near  the  southeast  point  of  the  island,  and  search  the  shore  caretully  to  the  north- 
ward till  it  is  found.  Directly  abreast  of  the  watering-place  it  is  deep  water  close  to  the 
shore  ;  20  to  25  f\ithoms  would  not  be  more  than  two  cables'  length  from  tlie  beach. 

"  About  hiilf  a  mile  to  the  southward  the  land  is  quite  low,  close  to  the  shore,  and  low 
land  extends  back  some  distance.  It  is  fronted  by  a  gravel  beach.  Here  good  anchorage 
may  be  had  in  17  to  20  fathoms.  There  are  no  hidden  dangers  on  the  east  side  of  Ccrros,  and, 
with  the  usually  westerly  winds,  it  is  generally  calm  and  smooth  at  the  anchorage.  At  times 
when  the  winds  get  to  the  south  of  west,  which  is  not  often,  heavy  nillies  blow  from  the  moun- 
tains. 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  147 

"  Wood  mny  be  had  at  this  place  by  followhis  tlic  p;"h'h  toward  tlie  interior.  It  is  small, 
and  boins;  a  mile  or  more  from  the  .shore,  re(iuires  a  good  deal  of  lal)or  to  secure  any  consid- 
eiable  supply  for  a  ship.  Although  small,  it  is  of  excelletit  quality.  We  obtained  four  months' 
supply  for  cooking-purposes,  with  a  crew  of  30  men,  in  three  days,  not  making  over  eight 
houi-s  each  day. 

WINDS   ANT)   WEATHER   ON   THE   COAST   OF   LOWER   CALIFORNIA. 

"  From  San  Diego  to  Cape  San  Lucas,  northwest  winds  prevail  throughout  the  year,  follow- 
ing tlie  bend  of  the  land  as  you  close  in  with  the  coast.  During  the  months  of  December  and 
January  the  regular  coast  winds  (northwest)  are  most  likely  to  be  interrupted  by  heavy  '  north- 
ers.' These  winds  blow  from  north  to  northeast,  and  last  from  one  to  three  days.  Southeast 
gales  of  much  strength  seldom  occur.  From  November  to  April,  about  the  change  of  the 
moon,  light  southeast  gales  may  occur,  with  considerable  rain.  About  the  breaking  up  of  the 
bad  weather,  when  the  wind  hauls  about  southwest,  it  sometimes  blows  quite  fresh  for  a  few 
hours ;  then  the  wind  comes  from  the  northwest,  bringing  fine  weather  again.  About  Cape 
San  Lucas  these  remarks  do  not  apply  so  wc/l  in  the  hurricane  season  on  the  coast  of  Mexico 
— as  gales  occurring  on  that  coast  sometimes  reach  the  cape  and  extend  as  far  north  as  Mag- 
dalena  Bay — but  one  instance  of  tliis  kind  occurred,  to  my  knowledge,  during  eight  succes- 
sive years. 

(Signed)  "C.  M.  SCAMMON, 

"  Lieut.  Commanding  U.  S.  Revenue  Steamer  Shubrick." 

It  may  not  bo  inappropriate  to  add  here  that  evidences  exist  of  alternate  northern  and 
southern  currents.  They  are  drawn  from  the  fact  of  the  conchology  of  the  island  presenting  a 
remarkable  blending  of  northern  and  southern  types — to  be  accounted  for  in  no  other  way 
than  by  the  action  of  strong  submarine  currents  up  and  down  the  coast. 

The  bay  of  San  Bartolome,  just  south  of  Point  Eugenio,  is  another  small,  quiet,  and  per- 
fectly-sheltered harbor.  Fresh  water  has  been  found  by  digging  30  feet,  at  a  point  at  the  foot 
of  a  blulf  on  the  northeast  side  of  the  bay.  There  is  no  wood.  It  is  perhaps  of  little  value, 
unless  it  be  for  a  point  from  which  to  communicate  with  the  interior.  The  existence  of  fresh 
■water  would  give  it  an  advantage  in  this  regard  over  Scammon's  or  Ballenas  Lagoon. 

On  the  northeast  side  of  the  bay  of  Viscaino,  about  a  mile  from  the  main,  is  a  barren  rock, 
about  f  of  a  mile  in  length  by  J  of  a  mile  in  breadth,  known  as  "  Elide  Island,"  on  which  was 
foi-merly  a  valuable  deposit  of  guano,  now  wholly  removed.  A  small  quantity  of  that  valu- 
able articb  is  still  to  be  found  on  the  rocky  islets  outside  of  Cerros,  and  on  like  spots  along 
the  mainland.  Captain  Howes,  who  is  familiar  with  every  point  along  this  portion  of  the 
coast,  thinks  guano  might  be  collected  in  the  aforenamed  localities  in  quantities  sufficient  to 
be  worth  attention. 

I  visited  Elide  Island  and  the  adjacent  mainland  on  my  return  from  Cerros.  There  is  a 
good  landing  for  boats  on  the  mainland,  a  little  northeast  of  the  island,  with  but  little  surf,  on  a 
sandy  beach ;  I  did  not  go  far  into  the  interior.  The  general  aspect  of  the  country  is  that 
of  thirst  and  barrenness,  producing  only  a  few  thorny  shrubs  and  numerous  cactacea.  The 
adjacent  mountains  are,  doubtless,  metalliferous.  Captain  R.  N.  Dcaring,  who  had  charge  of 
Elide,  showed  me  some  good  samt)les  of  copper  ore  found  at  no  great  distance,  as  he  was  in- 
formed, in  the  interior.  Silver  is  said  to  exist  in  the  same  locality.  The  specimens  and  in- 
formation were  obtained  from  the  natives. 

MINERALS— COPPER. 

A  VERY  remarkable  feature  in  the  mineralogy  of  the  island  is  the  general  diflusion  of  cop- 
per in  various  mineral  forms  throughout  every  formation,  whether  slates,  shales,  basalt,  or 
porphyry.  Everywhere  stains  and  spots  of  copper  met  the  eye  on  the  weathered  surfaces  of 
the  rocks.  Among  the  slates,  segregated  masses  of  ore,  of  a  few  pounds  up  to  a  ton  in 
weight,  were  frequently  observed.  They  seemed  to  have  no  traceable  connection  with  any 
regular  vein.  Had  careful  excavation  been  made  in  and  about  such  localities,  valuable  de- 
velopments would  proliably  have  resulted.  I  was  unfortunately  deprived  of  the  means  of 
efficiently  performing  a  wf)rk  so  essential,  and  had  to  be  content  with  a  few  very  superficial 
openings  tliat  gave  no  available  information.  The  ore  consisted  seemingly  of  an  oxide,  min- 
gled with  carbonate,  sulphuret,  and  earthly  impurities.  It  reduced  readily  into  metallic  copper 
in  an  ordinary  portable  forge  we  had  with  us.  Traversing  the  slates  were  observed  occasion- 
ally small  seams,  or  very  narrow  veins  of  carbonate  of  lime,  filled  with  metallic  specks  of  cop- 
per in  great  abundance.     These  seams  varied  in  width  from  ^  an  inch  to  3  inches. 

It  is  more  than  probable  the  slates  holding  these  veins  and  segregations  might,  in  some 
localities,  be  found  rich  enough  to  be  worked.  The  whole  formation  is  cupriferous  iu  a  greater 
or  less  degree.  It  would  be  well  worth  the  examination  to  test  the  fact.  The  practically  in- 
exhaustible quantili/  would  admit  of  a  low  quality  being  made  available. 

This  copper-bearing  range  seems  to  occupy  the  eastern  side  of  the  island,  nearly  the 
whole  length.  It  first  begins  to  show  itself  strongly  near  Mount  Ayres,  and  thence  north  to 
the  end.  The  seams  of  metallic  copper  were  more  abundant  on  the  northeastern  spurs  of 
Mount  Ayres    than    elsewhere.      The  elevation  is   about  1,500   feet  above    the  sea,   and 


148  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

about  two  miles  from  the  shore.     The  segregated  masses  have  generally  about  the  same  elevation. 
Toward  the  north,  however,  they  descend,  and  are  found  within  an  elevation  of  500  feet. 

MANGANESE. 

Fragments  of  this  mineral  were  found  in  several  places  in  ravines.  I  observed  no  veins 
nor  masses,  but  toward  the  north  the  fragments  were  so  frequent,  that  not  much  doubt 
exists  as  to  the  probable  abundance  of  the  ore  at  certain  points. 

CHROMIC    IRON. 

Masses  of  chromic  iron  ore,  associated  with  serpentine  rock,  are  found  in  every  part  of 
the  island,  especially  in  the  first  and  second  ranges.  In  two  places,  one  on  the  cast  of  Mount 
Ayres,  and  the  other  a  short  distance  south  of  Dearing's  Valley,  there  are  seemingly  regular 
veins.  The  first-named  vein  is  about  three  feet  in  width,  the  latter  probably  20  feet — being 
the  largest  mass  of  that  ore  I  ever  encountered.  A  good  road  can  be  made  to  within  f  of  a 
mile  of  the  spot.  Near  it  are  several  of  the  small  seams,  containing  metallic  copper,  as  above 
described.  This  would  be  the  most  convenient  point  to  obtain  the  ore  for  shipment,  should 
it  ever  be  required.  In  the  event  of  vessels  returning  to  Europe  in  ballast,  a  cargo  of  value 
might  be  had  here  at  little  cost. 

TITANIFEROUS    IRON    ORE  — (Appendix  J.) 

A  VEIN,  of  about  10  feet  in  width,  of  this  ore,  was  found  on  the  northern  part  of  the  island. 
It  outcropped  boldly,  and  was  traceable,  according  to  my  recollection,  about  150  feet  on  the 
surface.  As  iron  from  this  ore  is  of  great  value,  and  is  coming  into  demand  for  many  impor- 
tant purposes,  it  may  ultimately  add  much  to  the  resources  of  the  island.  Other  localities 
will  probably  be  found  near  good  landing-places,  though  the  above  great  mass  is  by  no 
means  inaccessible. — (See  Appendix.) 

GOLD. 

The  last  portion  of  the  island  examined  was  the  extreme  north,  by  fiir  the  most  in- 
teresting of  all,  from  the  widely-diffused  indications  of  minerals.  Carbonate  and  sulphide 
of  copper  were  found  everywhere.  The  great  vein,  however,  was  not  found.  The  inactive 
portion  of  the  expedition  had  become  weary  with  idleness,  and  were  clamorous  for  a  re- 
turn to  San  Francisco.  Disgusted  with  the  non-realization  of  their  hopes,  as  to  the  con- 
centrated wealth  hidden  somewhere  on  the  island,  it  became  necessary  to  abandon  the 
prosecution  of  further  search.  But  a  few  hours  were  therefore  allowed  for  a  hurried  re- 
connoissance  of  our  last  field  of  operations. 

Samples  were  hastily  gathered  from  a  remarkable  locality,  showing  abundantly  the  usual 
metallic  copper  specks,  as  we  supposed  at  the  time.  On  closer  examination  in  San  Francisco, 
after  our  arrival,  we  found  these  samples  to  be  gold  instead  of  copper.  The  specimens 
were  broken  without  discrimination  from  a  large  mass  of  similar  rocks.  Should  it  prove 
to  be  as  extensive  as  it  seemed,  with  the  richness  possessed  by  the  samples  brought  avray, 
it  is  truly  a  valuable  locality. 

But  as  my  information  is  so  very  slight,  I  simply  give  the  Avcts  for  what  they  are 
worth — stating,  however,  my  favorable  impression  as  to  the  existence  of  a  valuable  mine. 
The  locality  is  only  about  a  mile  from  shore.  A  road  would  have  to  be  made  over  rather 
difficult  ground.  A  small,  quiet  bay,  nearly  in  front  of  it,  would  make  a  good  cmbarcadero 
for  shipping  the  ore.  There  is,  unfortunately,  no  fresh  water  on  that  part  of  the  island.  Six 
or  eight  miles  south  is  the  nearest. 

None  of  the  party  save  myself  and  two  sons  saw,  or  were  near,  the  locality.  From  the 
nature  of  the  broken  and  intricate  surface,  the  mine  is  not  likely  to  be  rediscovered  soon. 

SILVER. 

A  PIECE  of  ore  was  brought  in  from  the  interior  of  the  island,  in  which  I  detected  silver. 
The  examination  was  not  followed  up,  as  the  trace  of  metal  was  very  slight.  I  believe,  now 
that  I  have  become  familiar  with  the  silver-mines  of  Nevada,  that  silver  may  be  found  in  pay- 
ing quantity  on  Cerros. 

Should  mines  of  any  kind  be  opened  on  the  island,  so  as  to  induce  practical  miners  to  re 
side  there,  I  should  not  doubt  the  ultimate  bringing  to  light  of  valuable  mineral  resources  in 
no  stinted  abundance. 

CLIMATE. 

As  far  as  temperature  is  concerned,  I  know  of  no  spot  so  favored.  My  experience  only 
extends,  however,  to  one-fourth  of  a  year.  During  my  three  months'  sojourn,  the  thermom- 
eter did  not  vary  over  ten  degrees  between  midnight  and  mid-day,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
island.  The  average  temperature  was  '74°  Fahr.  A  more  delightful  climate  could  scarcely  be 
imagined  for  an  invalid.  To  the  consumptive  and  rheumatic  patient,  no  more  genial  temper- 
ature on  the  earth's  surface  could  be  offered.  The  atmosphere  is  dry,  but  not  harsh.  _  Rain, 
I  imagine,  seldom  occurs.     Floods,  at  distant  and  irregular  times,  with  intervening  periods  of 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  lj,0 

entire  drought,  as  on  the  main  shore  in  the  same  latitude,  may,  of  course,  be  expected  here. 
There  were  two  slight  showers  during  my  stay.  • 

The  prevailing  winds  are  i'roni  the  northwest.  There  is  a  fair  and  interesting  mean;?  of  ob- 
serving the  thickness  or  depth  of  the  wind-stratum.  It  is  nearly  exactly  1,000  feet  from  the  sur- 
face of  the  ocean  to  the  upper  side  of  the  moving  mass  of  wind.  On  this  float  the  sea-mists, 
which  are  hurled,  as  it  were,  against  the  mountains,  and  rebound  in  the  form  of  slow-moving 
grand,  gigantic  billows,  which,  viewed  from  the  peaks  far  above  them,  have  a  most  weird  and 
fearful  appearance. 

Up  to  the  elevation  above  named,  the  wind  strikes  with  unabated  force  and  persistency, 
as  at  San  Francisco.  Trees  and  shrubs — what  few  there  are  of  them — are  bent  down  and 
pressed  as  it  were  against  the  mountain-side.  At  and  ai)ove  this  line  commences  a  region  of 
perpetual  calm,  which  is  about  the  depth  of  the  region  o^  perpetual  ar/itation  below  it,  viz.,  1,000 
feet.  AVithin  this  7,one  of  quiet,  slender  trees  and  shrubs  stand  perfectly  erect,  evidently 
never  disturbed  by  rude  winds.  The  two  groves  of  pines  are  in  this  belt.  The  clouds  rest 
here,  a'nd  l)athe  the  trees  with  perpetual  moisture.  The  leaves  are  forever  studded  with  drops 
of  water,  and  the  groves  at  any  and  all  times  seem  to  have  just  been  subjected  to  a  gentle 
rain-shower.  The  earth  is  sloppy,  and  a  hole  scooped  out  anywhere  under  the  trees  is 
quickly  filled  with  fresh  water. 

At  a  greater  elevation,  the  wind  again  revels  round  the  mountain-peaks,  in  irregular  direc- 
tions and  with  uncertain  force.  Vegetation  becomes  again  scanty,  as  the  air  becomes  dry 
and  untranquil.     A  few  cedars  {■/uniperus  cerrosiana,  Kellog)  and  manzanito-trees  {Arctosta- 

phylos )  of  a  species  I  had  not  seen  before,  were  the  only  arborescent  representatives 

above  the  cloud-zone. 

In  connection  with  the  climate,  I  may  mention  certain  singular  markings  on  the  surface 
of  the  ground,  resembling  neatly-swept  garden-walks,  which  must  have  had  a  meteoric  origin. 
One  of  these  walks  was  about  a  mile  in  length,  nearly  due  north  and  south.  Commencing  at 
the  south,  it  ran  in  nearly  a  straight  line,  continuing  over  hillocks,  rocks,  ravines,  and  ob- 
structions of  every  kind  ;  at  the  end  of  a  mile,  it  curved  very  regularly,  with  a  radius  of  about 
200  feet,  and  returned  nearly  exactly  parallel  with  its  first  course,  at  a  distance  of  about 
150  feet  from  it,  and  terminated  about  opposite  to  where  it  commenced.  The  breadth  of  the 
track  is  six  feet. 

A  little  north  of  the  above  is  a  still  more  remarkable  road.  It  is  30  feet  in  breadth, 
and  forms  a  complete  circle  of  nearly  ICO  fest  in  diameter.  It  then  passes  off  in  a  curve 
towards  the  north,  gradually  bending  to  the  east,  with  a  radius  of  about  5,000  feet.  It  is 
traceable  a  mile  and  a  half.  The  width  of  the  road,  on  the  long  curve,  is  about  three 
feet.  It  is  swept  out,  in  some  places,  four  or  five  inches  in  depth.  It  is  lost,  finally,  in  hard, 
rough  ground.  It  presents  the  appearance  as  if  a  jet  of  water — such  as  issues  from  a  huge 
hydraulic  pipe,  used  ))y  the  California  miners — had  been  impinged  in  a  moving  column 
against  the  surface  of  the  ground.  It  may  have  been  the  result  of  a  whirlwind  charged 
with  the  contents  of  a  rain-cloud,  the  point  just  touching  the  earth,  and  delivering  the 
water  it  bore  as  if  from  a-  funnel.     May  not  water-spouts  be  formed  in  this  way  ? 

FAUNA. 

Of  tlie  animals,  deer  and  rabbits  are  probably  the  only  native  quadrupeds.  The  herds 
of  wild  goats  are,  of  course,  the  descendants  of  those  introduced — how  many  years  ago  is 
unknown.  The  deer  presents  marked  i)eculiarities,  and,  if  not  a  new  species,  is  at  least  a  well- 
characterized  variety,  making  the  nearest  approach  to  the  black-tailed  Cervus  Colurabianus. 
We  found  them  abundant  in  the  northern  part  of  the  island.  They  seemed  less  timid  than 
the  goats,  and  I  have  had  them  approach  within  ten  paces  of  me,  snuffing  and  stamping 
with  an  air  half-threatening,  half-playful. 

Amongst  the  introduced  animals  may  be  named  those  pestiferous  rodents,  rats  and 
mice.  The  J/ms  decuman u.'^,  the  brown  or  Norway  rat,  with  his  little  cousin,  the  M. 
rmisculus,  or  house-mouse,  follow  commerce  and  establish  colonies  wherever  ships  touch  land. 
Thus  the  coast  of  California,  and  the  adjacent  islands,  are  by  no  means  badly  supplied 
with  representatives  of  these  familiar  pests.  To  the  list  of  native  rodents  I  may  add  a 
small  jumping-mouse  {Jacuhis ). 

The  vicinity  of  Cerros  Island  is  a  favorite  resort  for  that  interesting  animal,  the  sea-otter 
{Enhydra  marina).  Formerly  they  existed  in  great  abundance,  and  the  value  of  their  fur 
caused  them  to  be  hunted  with  relentless  energy.  A  man,  skillcil  in  the  business,  could 
sometimes  realize  a  little  fortune  by  a  season's  hunt.  I  was  informed  by  an  old  otter 
hunter  that  numbers  of  the  Northwest  Indians  were,  for  a  long  time,  annually  brought  with 
their  canoes  to  Cerros,  by  coasting  schooners,  from  whence  they  made  extensive  and  success- 
ful excursions  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Cerros  and  the  adjacent  islands.  At  the  pres- 
ent time  the  animal  is  comparatively  scarce.  It  is  still  hunted,  however,  but  with  less 
vigor  than  of  yore.  The  skins  arc  worth  from  .$25  to  ^50  each — one-fpurth  of  their  former 
price.  One  of  i-are  size  and  beauty  occasionally  brings  .$75.  The  sea-elephant  {Macrorhinus 
proboscidius),  one  of  the  most  gigantic  of  the  seal  family,  resorted  formerly  in  great  numbers 
to  Cerros  and  the  adjacent  islets.     They  were  much  sought  after  for  their  oil.     The  species, 


150  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

as  Captain  Scammon  informs  me,  is  now  nearly  extinct  on  this  coast.  Not  so,  however,  -with 
the  sea-lion  ( Otaria  juhatxi).  Me  is  more  prolific,  and  there  are  fewer  inducements  for  his  de- 
struction. He  is,  however,  by  no  means  beyond  danger  from  the  oil-man.  At  certain  seasons, 
when  the  lion  chances  to  have  a  little  fat  on  his  bones,  he  is  slaughtered  most  mercilessly. 
Fortunately  for  him,  his'  skin  is  nearly  worthless,  or  there  would  be  a  double  inducement  for 
his  destruction.  Toward  the  north  end  of  the  island  there  is  a  great  breeding-place  for  these 
animals.  It  is  a  small  bay,  two  or  three  miles  in  length,  and  perhaps  three-fourths  of  a  mile 
in  breadth,  surrounded  on  the  land  by  a  perpendicular  cliff,  and  on  the  ocean-side  by  a  belt 
of  kelp.  It  is  thus  protected  both  from  winds  and  waves.  It  is  bordered  with  a  sandy  beach, 
some  200  paces  in  breadth.  The  access  by  land  is  exceedingly  difficult,  and  can  only  be 
gained  by  careful  clambering  down  where  breaks  and  fissures  otter  hand  and  foothold.  This 
sequestered  and  quiet  place  is  the  comfortable  and  appropriate  resort  of  the  lionesses  to  bring 
forth  and  rear  their  young.  It  is  indeed  a  great  seal-nursery.  My  first  visit  to  this  interest- 
ing locality  was  in  the  latter  part  of  the  month  of  July.  Seals,  in  countless  numbers,  literally 
covered  the.  beach.  They  were  of  every  conceivable  size,  from  the  young  one,  seemingly  a 
few  days  old,  up  to  the  full-grown  animal.  So  unconscious  of  danger  were  the  little  ones,  that 
they  scarce  made  an  effort  to  get  out  of  the  way.  I  picked  up  many  of  them  in  my  hands  ; 
after  a  brief  struggle,  the  little  captive  would  yield,  and  seemed  to  fear  no  further  harm. 
Hundreds  slept  so  soundly,  that  I  rolled  them  over  before  they  could  be  induced  to  open  their 
great  baby-eyes.  While  thousands  slept  and  basked  on  the  shore,  an  equal  number  floated 
lazily  in  the  water,  or  dipped  and  dived  about  in  sport. 

The  mother-seals  were  more  timid  than  their  young,  but  seemed  less  alarmed  than  surprised 
at  my  approach.  The  look  of  startled  inquiry  was  so  human  and  feminine — nay,  lady-like, 
that  I  felt  as  an  intruder  on  the  privacy  of  the  nursery. 

I  could  not  discover  any  individual  claim  set  up  by  the  mother  for  any  particular  little 
lion,  but,  like  a  great  socialistic  community,  maternal  love  seemed  to  be  joint-stock  property, 
and  each  infant  communist  had  a  mother  in  every  adult  female. 

The /«//<frs  of  the  great  family  appeared  in  point  of  numbers  to  be  largely  in  the  minority, 
counting,  as  I  judged,  not  the  hundredth  part  of  the  adult  animals.  A  few  bearded,  growling 
old  fellows,  tumbled  about  in  the  water,  yelling  and  howling  in  a  most  threatening  manner  at 
me,  and  approaching  within  a  few  feet  of  where  I  stood.  A  pebble  tossed  at  one  of  them,  how- 
ever, would  be  answered  by  a  plunge  beneath  the  surface  and  reappearance  at  a  safer  distance. 

I  witnessed  an  unexpected  act  of  tenderness  on  the  part  of  one  of  the  hugest  and  most 
boisterous  old  threatciiers  for  a  little  one  that  seemed  to  claim  him  for  papa.  He  was  blowing 
and  screaming  at  me  fearfully,  when  a  young  one  at  my  feet  hustled  into  the  water,  glided  off 
to  the  old  one,  and,  childlike,  placed  its  mouth  up  to  his.  The  old  savage  ceased  his  noise, 
returning  the  caress,  and  seemed,  for  several  seconds,  to  forget  his  wrath  at  the  unwelcome 
intruder.  This  show  of  affection  saved  his  life.  I  was  at  the  moment,  rifle  in  hand,  waiting 
a  chance  to  dislocate  his  neck.  I  wanted  the  skull  of  an  otaria  for  my  collection,  and  his  huge 
size  suggested  him  as  an  appropriate  victim.  I  at  once  lost  all  murderous  desire,  and  left  him 
to  the  further  enjoyment  of  parental  felicity. 

The  noise  and  uproar  of  the  locality  are  scarcely  to  be  imagined.  A  hundred  thousand  seals 
grunting,  coughing,  and  shrieking  at  the  same  instant,  made  a  phocine  pandemonium  I  shall 
never  forget.     I  will  observe  here  that  the  male  was  fully  four  times  as  large  as  the  female. 

Ingiving  the  generic  and  specific  names  of  the  the  sea-lion  {Olarhi  jubala),  I  have  followed 
the  writers  on  the  zoology  of  the  Pacific.  The  skulls  in  the  collection  of  the  California 
Academy  of  Natural  Sciences  are  so  labelled.  Newberry  calls  it  an  Otaria,  with  a  questiim  as 
to  the  species,  in  the  sixth  volume  of  K.  K.  Reports.  It  seems,  however,  according  to  Gray, 
who  has  hivestigated  the  subject,  that  our  sea-lion  belongs  to  the  genus  Eumatojnas  (E.  SteUerii, 
Gray).  This  is  the  name  of  the  fur-seal  of  the  north,  which  owr  sfia-lion  does  not  resemble, 
at  least  in  fur-))roducing  qualities.  Its  identity  with  the  E.  Stcllcril  seems  to  be  based  upon 
the  evidences  presented  by  two  skulls  sent  to  the  Smithsonian  Institute  from  the  bay  of 
Monterey,  California.  This,  it  seems  to  me,  would  hardly  be  sufficient,  without  further  inves- 
tigation, to  justify  the  placing  of  our  hairi/  lion  with  the y«)--co«/^rf  Eumatopias. 

There  may  be  a  doubt,  on  the  other  hand,  if  the  California  sea-lion,  with  his  mai^eless  neck, 
can  be  identical  with  the  southern  Olariajuhattt,  whose  designation  of  "  lion  "  is  obtained  from 
the  male  having  the  leonine  appendix  of  a  mane.  It  is  not  impossible — hardly  improbable — 
that  our  sea-lion,  like  our  gray  whale,  remains  yet  to  be  christened  with  a  scientific  name  by 
some  zoological  high-priest. 

The  sea-elephant,  though  usually  bearing  the  name  before  given  {Maa-orhimis  proboscidius) 
is  really  M.  Aiic/iistirostrKs — the  former  belonging  to  high  northern  parallels,  and  perhaps, 
never  reaching  as  far  south  as  San  Francisco ;  while  the  latter  extends  from  Oregon  to  at 
least  as  far  as  Cape  San  Lucas,  where  Captain  Scammon  informs  me  he  has  often  seen  them. 
How  much  farther  south  they  extend  I  am  not  informed. 

Besides  the  foregoing,  I  only  observed  one  other  seal  at  Cerros.     It  was  a  beautifully 

spotted  animal — dark  spots  on  a  yellowish  ground — known  as  the  leopard-seal  {Phoca ?). 

There  are  really  several  phocas  on  the  California  coast,  and  the  question  of  identity  remains 
yet  to  be  settled  as  to  most  of  the  Pinnipedes  of  our  shores. 

From  seals  the  transition  to  the  subject  of  whales  is  easy.     But  if  doubt  is  applicable  to 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFOHXLV.  151 

the  naminji  of  our  seals,  it  is  still  increased  when  applied  to  the  whales.  The  "  California 
gray"  is  the  familiar  name  of  the  whale  that  formerly  resorted  to  Seammon's  Lagoon  in  im- 
mense numbers  to  bring  forth  tiielr  young.  They  had  remained,  probably  for  ages,  undis- 
turbed by  man  in  this  hidtlen  inland  sea,  until  Captain  Seammon  disclosed  their  secret  hiding- 
place  in  the  year  1855.  The  havoc  made  amongst  them  for  the  next  few  years  was  terrific, 
and  their  numbers  became  rapidly  reduced.  They  still  fre(nient  the  lagoon,  but  no  longer  in 
such  astonishing  numbers.  They  are  yet  hunted  by  whalers,  l)ut  with  diminished  energy. 
The  destruction  has  been  greatest  amongst  the  females,  as  tlieir  size  is  at  least  double  that 
of  the  male,  and  the  quantity  of  oil  yielded  is  in  proportion,  viz.,  about  forty  barrels  for  the  fe- 
male and  twenty  for  the  male. 

There  are  several  whales  besides  the  "gray,"  such  as  the  "humpback,"  and  "sulphur- 
bottom,"  etc.  The  two  latter  are  often  encountered  and  taken  for  their  oil,  but  do  not,  like 
the  first  named,  seem  to  pertain  ])articularly  to  our  coast,  nor,  like  it,  go  and  come  at  certain 
fixed  periods,  nor  seek  the  shelter  of  our  shallow  bays  and  lagoons  to  luring  forth  their  young. 
Tlie  (trail  is  doubtless  new  to  science,  and  remains,  with  several  less  important  members  of  its 
family  on  the  Pacific  coast,  to  be  yet  examined  by  competent  scientific  authority. 

The  habits  of  the  animal  have  been  carefully  studied  by  Captain  Scammon,  of  the  United 
States  Revenue  Service,  whose  extensive  opportunities  for  observation  have  been  improved 
with  untiring  industry,  and  whose  labors  when  given  to  the  public  will  have  conferred  no  small 
benefit  on  science.  He  has  made  numerous  accurate  and  excellent  drawings  of  the  gray  as 
well  as  of  several  other  species  of  whale  found  on  our  coast,  the  proportions  corrected  from 
actual  measurements.* 

UERPETOLOGY  — BIRDS,    INSECTS. 

Ix  herpetology  there  was  found  a  rattlesnake  from  12  to  16  inches  in  length,  of  a  dull- 
brown  color,  with  rattles  of  an  almost  pure  white.  Its  habits  varied  from  that  of  its  family 
in  its  lack  of  combative  qualities,  being  difficult  to  provoke  it  to  battle ;  it  but  seldom  used 
its  rattles  and  made  a  hissing  or  blowing  sound,  like  an  adder.  Several  species  of  lizards,  one 
with  very  bright  hues,  occur,  but  not  abundantly.  A  single  species  of  frog  was  abundant  in 
most  of  the  fresh-water  springs. 

Birds  were  not  abundant,  save  those  of  the  ocean.  Doves,  wrens,  crows,  buzzards,  fl}'- 
catchers,  and  probably  two  species  of  hawk,  were  found  in  the  mountains. 

Insect  life  is  not  favored  by  appropriate  natural  conditions,  and  therefore  not  abundant. 
I  obtained  not  more  than  ten  species,  among  them  a  brilliant  wasp,  and  a  large  night-moth 
that  in  flitting  about  was  at  first  mistaken  for  a  bat.  I  obtained  but  two  specimens,  and 
they  were  unfortunately  mutilated  in  packing  my  collection. 

One  hundred  and  fourteen  species  of  marine  shells  were  gathered  in  a  few  days.  They 
were  examined  by  Dr.  Xewcomb,  who  found  amongst  them  a  remarkable  commingling  of 
northern  and  southern  types,  evidencing  an  alternation  of  northern  and  southern  currents,  as 
is  observed  under  the  head  of  "  currents  "  in  another  place. 

Of  the  terrestrial  air-breathing  moUusks  only  a  single  snail  was  found  (JleUz  Veatchiana, 
Newcomb).  It  was  rather  abundant.  The  same  species  occurred  in  great  numbers  on  the 
main  opposite  Elide  Island. 

The  abdone  {HalUotis )  is  the  only  mollusk  of  economic  value.     Its  shell  is  valuable 

for  ornamental  purposes  in  certain  manufactures,  and  the  flesh  is  often  dried  and  sent  to  China. 
The  animal  is  abundant  on  the  half-submerged  rocks  of  the  south  end  of  the  island. 

FISHES. 

Fishes  are  abundant  along  the  shores  of  Cerros  as  well  as  in  the  bay  of  Viseaino  every- 
where. The  lagoons  swarm  with  them.  The;  variety  is  very  great.  Of  the  small  collection 
I  was  able  to  secure.  Dr.  W.  0.  Ayres  found  nearly  all  to  be  specilically  new.  The  great  Jew- 
fish  {Stcrcolepas  Gir/an,  Ayres) — which  occasionally  strays  as  far  north  as  San  Francisco — 
abounds  here.  The  great  size  to  which  it  attains  is  remarkable,  weighing  from  one  hundred 
to  four  hundred  pounds.  The  flesh  is  exceedingly  delicate  as  an  article  of  food.  If  speedy 
conveyance  could  be  had  to  San  Francisco  the  stereolepas  would  be  a  fiivorite  of  our  fish- 
market. 

The  shark  family  is  well  represented  by  several  small  species  of  that  detestable  group  ;  they 
abound  in  the  shoal  water,  very  close  to  the  shore. 

SOIL   AND    PRODUCTIONS. 

I  WISH  I  could  say  as  much  for  the  soil  as  for  the  climate.  The  earth  is  an  alkaline  clay, 
harsh  and  barren,  and  I  fear  could  not  be  coaxed  to  yield  any  of  the  products  desiral)le  to 
the  horticulturist.  One  of  my  party  planted  beans,  lettuce,  etc.,  where  irrigation  could  be 
employel;  but  nothing  flourished.  And  yet  the  native  flora  is  somewhat  extensive.  I  col- 
lected some  fifty  species  of  flowering  plants.  Two  of  them  claimed  the  dignity  of  trees,  viz., 
a  pine  and  a  cedar.       There  are  two  groves  of  pines — of  some    three  hundred  acres   in 

*In  the  Appendix  will  be  fouud  interesting  details  In  every  point  of  view.— (&«  Captain  Seammon's 
accoant  in  Appendix  11.) 


152  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

extent  each  (Appendix  6).  They  occupy  the  northwestern  slope  of  the  north  mountain- 
range.  They  commence  on  the  crest,  or  backbone,  and  extend  down  the  side  perhaps  the 
fourth  of  a  mile.  They  are  within  the  calm  zone,  and  seem  never  to  have  been  shaken  with 
more  than  a  breath  of  air.  Some  of  the  trees  were  from  60  to  70  feet  in  height.  Exceed- 
ingly tall  and  slender  saplings  stood  as  erect  as  flag-poles.  (This  pine  is  referred  to  in  the 
Appendix.) 

The  cedar  grew  more  in  the  sheltered  ravines.  It  had  also  braved  the  winds  at  points 
within  the  windy  zone,  but  its  body  lay  almost  flat  against  the  side  of  the  mountain. 

A  dwarf-oak,  a  mere  tall  shrub,  was  found  on  the  north  side  of  Mount  Ayres.  An  arctos- 
taphylon  (manzanito)  occurred  near  the  summit.     It  attained  a  height  of  about  10  feet. 

The  botanical  collection  was  given  to  Mr.  Bloomer,  the  curator  of  that  department  of  the 
Academy  of  Sciences.  Dr.  Kellog  described  and  figured  many  of  them.  •  They  proved  to  be 
nearly  all  specifically  and  some  generally  new.  For  a  more  particular  description  of  some  of 
the  more  interesting  species,  I  refer  to  the  Appendix.  The  two  interesting  species  of  Rhus 
(R.  Lentiana  and  R.  Veatchiana)  form  marked  features  in  the  island  flora,  the  former  for  the 
delicious  acid  exudation  of  its  fruit,  and  the  latter  for  its  strangely  grotesque  growth  and  the 
picturesque  effect  of  its  profusion  of  pink  flowers. 

A  shrub  that  rooted  itself  in  crevices  of  the  rocks  in  considerable  abundance  bore  an  ex- 
cellent gland-like  fruit,  having  much  the  appearance  and  size  of  a  small  acorn,  and  tasting 
like  a  chestnut.  The  goats  and  deer  fed  both  on  the  fruit  and  leaves.  The  genus  is  described 
in  the  "  Boundary  Survey  Report "  as  Simondsia,  and  the  present  species  was  named  by  Dr. 
Kellag  as  the  S.  Pabulosa. 

The  grasses  were  few  and  sparse.  I  lost  those  I  collected.  The  goats  and  deer  could 
derive  but  scanty  sustenance  from  the  grasses,  and  therefore  the  fine  condition  they  were  in 
was,  of  course,  drawn  from  some  other  class  of  food. 

A  beautiful  yellow-flowered  agave  or  aloe  plant,  about  12  feet  in  height,  with  a  stem  from 
four  to  six  inches  in  diameter  at  the  base,  branching  and  spreading  at  the  top  and  terminating 
in  a  profusion  of  golden  blossoms,  was  tolerably  abundant.  The  flower-cups  were  filled  with 
a  fragrant,  sweet  liquid. 

The  cactus  family  was  represented  by  some  four  or  five  species  ;  among  them  a  giant  cereus 
and  a  very  minute  species  of  Ifamalaria,  with  a  disproportionately  large  flower,  exceedingly 
fragrant. 

Of  the  Cryptogamia,  I  found  one  fern  and  some  half-dozen  lichens  ;  one  of  them  only  was 
abundant,  on  the  rocks  in  one  locality,  toward  the  northern  part  of  the  island.  It  was  two  or 
three  inches  in  height,  somewhat  branched,  of  a  grayish  color,  and  resembled  a  sterocaulon. 
The  lichens  have  not  yet  been  determined.  The  collection  is  in  the  herbarium  of  the  Academy 
of  Sciences,  and  ere  long  will  be  reached  by  the  indefatigable  industry  of  Bolander  and  Kellag. 

Of  the  marine  Algfe  the  giant  kelp-weed  {jiIacroc>/stiis  pjirifera)  is  the  most  important  and 
conspicuous.  The  singular  fact  of  its  disappearance  in  a  great  measure  from  certain  portions 
of  the  coast  of  Lower  California  is  noticed  in  Captain  Scammon's  notes.  Captain  S.  informs 
me  that  the  same  thing  occurred  at  Pitcairn's  Island  some  years  ago — the  kelp  disappeared 
and  left  certain  portions  of  the  shore  exposed  to  the  unbroken  fury  of  the  waves,  which,  ere 
the  decay  of  the  Macrocystus,  had  been  noted  for  calmness  and  quiet.  In  the  course  of 
five  or  six  years,  however,  the  kelp  again  sprang  up  and  reoccupied  its  old  field,  and  bade  the 
waves  be  still  once  more. 

This  disappearance  of  the  great  wave-soothing  ocean-plant  is  probably  to  be  accounted  for 
by  its  buoyancy — lifting  the  stones  on  which  it  is  rooted,  and  floating  oft"  with  the  anchor  that 
could  hold  the  younger,  but  not  the  mature  plant,  with  its  immense  length,  its  great  cysts  of 
air,  and  its  broad,  cellular  floating  leaves,  impelled  by  storms  and  currents.  It  is  to  be  hoped 
this  important  sea-weed  may  again  fringe  the  coast  from  which  it  has  i)artially  departed. 

The  Macrocystus  is  at  present  attracting  attention  as  a  source  of  iodine.  It  is  said  to  be, 
along  our  coast,  particularly  rich  in  that  valuable  substance.  It  may  be  destined  to  add 
another  item  to  the  list  of  California  resources. 

In  illustration  of  the  volcanic  action  existing  along  our  coast,  I  append  the  following  article. 
A  chain  of  submarine  volcanoes  lying  parallel  with  our  shore,  and  not  greatly  distant  from 
it,  may  account  for  the  slight  earthquakes  that  rather  too  frequently  disturb  us  : 

BORACIC  ACID  IN  THE  SEA-WATER   OF  THE   COAST  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

From  the  Froceediiiffs  of  the  California  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences,  January  17,   1859. 

Dr.  John  A.  Veatch  read  the  following  paper  on  the  occurrence  of  boracic  acid  in  the 
sea-water  of  the  Pacific  : 

"  The  existence  of  boracic  acid  in  the  sea-water  of  our  coast  was  brought  to  my  notice  in 
July,  1857.  I  had,  in  the  month  of  January  of  the  previous  year,  discovered  borate  of  soda 
and  other  borates  in  solution  in  the  water  of  a  mineral  spring  in  Tehama  County,  near  the 
upper  end  of  the  Sacramento  Valley.     Prosecuting  the  research,  I  found  traces  of  boracic 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  153 

acid — in  the  form  of  borates — in  nearly  all  the  mineral  springs  with  which  the  State  of  Cali 
fornia  abounds. 

"  This  was  especially  the  case  in  the  coast  mountains.  Borate  of  soda  was  so  abundant  in 
one  particular  locality  that  enormous  crystals  of  that  salt  were  found  at  the  bottom  of  a 
shallow  lake,  or  rather  marsh,  one  or  two  hundred  acres  in  extent. 

"The  crystals  were  hexahodral,  with  bevelled  or  reidaced  edges,  and  truncated  angles; 
attaining  the  si/c,  in  some  eases,  of  four  inches  in  length  by  two  in  diameter,  forming  splendid 
and  attractive  specimens.*  In  the  same  neighborhood  a  cluster  of  small  thermal  springs 
were  observed  holding  free  boracic  acid  in  solution.  A  few  hundred  yards  from  these,  a  great 
number  of  hot-springs,  of  a  temperature  of  ^lii",  rose  up  through  the  fissures  of  a  silicious 
rock.  These  springs  held'  a  considerable  quantity  of  borax,  as  well  as  free  boracic  acid. 
Many  other  localities  furnished  similar  indications,  but  in  less  extensive  form. 

"In  progress  of  the  examination,  I  found  that  the  common  salt  (chloride  of  sodium)  ex- 
posed for  sale  in  the  San  Francisco  market,  and  which,  it  was  understood,  came  from  certain 
deposits  of  that  article  on  the  sea  margin  in  the  southern  part  of  the  State,  also  furnished 
boracic  acid.  I  was  led  to  attribute  it  to  the  fact  of  mineral  springs  emptying  into  the  la- 
goons furnishing  the  salt. 

"  It  was,  therefore,  a  matter  of  no  small  surprise,  when,  on  a  visit  to  the  localities,  I  found 
no  trace  of  acid  in  any  of  tlie  si>rings  in  the  adjacent  district.  This  led  to  an  examination  of 
the  sea-water,  and  a  detection  of  an  appreciable  quantity  of  boracic  acid  therein. 

"  It  was  at  Santa  Barbara,  where  I  first  detected  it,  and  subsequently  at  various  points, 
from  San  Diego  to  the  Straits  of  Fuea.  It  seems  to  be  in  the  form  of  borate  of  soda,  and 
perhaps  of  lime.  The  quantity  diminishes  toward  the  north.  It  is  barely  perceptilile  in 
specimens  of  water  brought  from  beyond  Oregon,  and  seems  to  meet  its  maximum  near  San 
Diego. 

"  This  peculiarity  seems  to  extend  no  great  distance  seaward.  "Water  taken  SO  or  40  miles 
west  of  San  Francisco  gave  no  trace  of  acid.  In  12  specimens,  taken  at  various  points  betwixt 
this  port  and  the  Sandwich  Islands,  furnished  mo  by  Mr.  Gulick,  of  Honolulu,  only  that  nearest 
our  coast  gave  boracic  acid.  In  10  specimens,  kindly  furnished  me  by  Dr.  W.  0.  Ayres,  taken 
up  by  Dr.  J.  D.  B.  Stillman,  in  a  trip  of  one  of  the  Pacific  mail-steamers  from  Panama  to  this 
place,  no  acid  was  discovered  south  of  the  Cortes  Shoals. 

"  I  hope  in  future  to  be  able  to  make  more  accurate  and  extended  examinations,  unless 
some  one  more  capal)le  of  doing  justice  to  the  subject  should  take  it  in  hand.  With  this 
view,  I  solicited  the  attention  of  Dr.  J.  S.  Newberry  to  these  facts  while  he  was  in  this  city, 
on  his  way  to  join  Lieutenant  Ives's  Colorado  Exploring  Expedition,  hoping  he  might  think  it 
worthy  of  investigation  during  his  stay  on  this  coast.  With  the  same  view,  I  now  submit  them 
to  the  Academy." 

APPENDIX  (J). 
TITANIFEROUS    IRON    ORE. 

The  above  species  of  ore,  I  believe,  is  not  found  in  many  localities  in  abundance.  The 
superior  value  of  the  iron  produced  from  it  will  doubtless  produce  a  demand  for  the  ore.  The 
following  article,  as  bearing  upon  the  suliject,  I  clip  from  a  December  number  of  the  Mining 
and  Sdmtijic  Frcss  of  San  Francisco  : 

"titanium     iron. 

"  A  valuable  discovery  is  reported  in  the  English  papers,  which  consists  of  a  cheap  process 
for  smelting  titanic  iron  ore,  which  has  hitherto  defied,  or  greatly  perplexed,  all  ironmasters 
and  scientific  men  in  the  trade.  It  is  a  well-known  fact  that  iron  made  from  titaniferous  ore 
is  most  valuable,  on  account  of  its  hardness  and  tensile  strength  being  five  times  greater  than 
ordinary  iron  ;  this  iron  will  be  admirably  adopted  for  plating  on  iron-clads,  and  also  fur  rails, 
on  account  of  its  hardness  and  strength,  and  the  discoverer  will  be  prepared  to  test  this  iron 
against  any  other  inm  hitherto  discovered  for  these  purposes,  or  for  making  steel.  If  the 
discovery  is  one  which  csn  be  cheaply  introduced,  or  one  by  which  titanium  iron  can  be  manu- 
factured at  about  the  cost  of  Bessemer  steel,  it  will  be  a  valuable  one  indeed. 

"  A  company  has  recently  been  formed  in  England  for  the  manufacture  of  titanic  steel  and 
iron  after  the  mode  devised  by  Mr.  Mushet,  which,  we  believe,  is  nearly  ready  to  go  into 
operation.  We  perceive  from  the  London  Mliii»r/  Jounuil,  last  received,  that  an  extraordinary 
general  meeting  of  this  company  has  been  called,  to'  take  into  consideration  the  agreement 
entered  into  by  the  company  with  Messrs.  Mushet  &  Clare,  with  a  view  to  the  modification 
thereof  This  may  possibly  iiave  some  reference  to  the  new  discovery  above  spoken  of  At 
all  events,  there  is  good  reason  to  believe  that  the  well-known  and  valuable  properties  of 
titanium  will  soon  be  economically  introduced  into  the  manufacture  of  iron,  in  such  a  manner 
as  to  work  a  most  important  improvement  in  this  great  agent  of  civilization  and  practical 
mechanism." 

*  This  is  the  well-known  "  Borax  Lake,"  the  property  of  the  "  California  Borax  Company."    It  is 
being  exteusively  worked  at  present,  and  furnishes  large  quantities  of  the  best  commercial  borak  known. 


154  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMEXT    AND 

APPENDIX  (K). 

ERROR    IX    COAST    CHARTS    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA. 

The  chart  most  in  use  is  that  of  James  Imray  and  Son,  London.  The  entire  coast,  from  a 
short  distance  below  San  Diego  to  near  Cape  St.  Lucas,  is  placed  some  14  miles  too  far  to  the 
west,  as  is  established  by  numerous  careful  observations.  The  little  guano  island  of  Elide,  in 
the  bay  of  San  Sebastian,  about  a  mile  from  the  shore,  is  in  latitude  28°  SY'  N.,  and  longitude 
114'^  2.5'  W.,  as  determined  by  Captain  R.  N.  Deariiig.  This  position  would  place  it  far  inland 
on  Imlay's  chart.  The  peninsula  is,  therefore,  several  miles  narrower  than  usually  represented 
on  the  maps,  unless  a  corresponding  error  exists  as  to  its  eastern  or  gulf  coast.  As  the  pearl- 
fishery  drew  early  attention  to  the  gulf,  it  is  probable  the  prominent  points  on  the  shores  were 
pretty  correctly  established  by  the  Spanish  navigators.  The  position  of  Cape  San  Lucas  was 
early  determined  by  the  Abbe  Chappe. 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  155 


EXTRACTS   FROM  A  HISTORY   OF   OLD    OR  LOWER 

CALIFORNIA. 

[A  posthnmons  work,  written  orisrinally  in  SpitrrWi.  by  Padre  Franchsco  Javier  ri.vn.rERO,  of  the 
Society  of  Jesus.  Tnm^kUud  ii^to  ItAliaii  for  pnblicntion.  Venice,  l"8!t.  From  Ii.iliaii  to  Spanish, 
a«Ma.'by  tlie  priest  Nicolas  Garcia,  de  Sau  Vicente  ;  Juan  K.  Navarro.  .iHidi-.  Mexico.  l.So2. 
Translated  from  this  edition  into  English,  by  A.  6.  Rand.vll,  Secretary  and  Translator  of  the  Lower 
California  Company's  Exploring  Expedition.    San  Francisco,  May,  ISOT.] 

From  Preface  of  the  Editor. — "  The  publication  of  '  Three  Ages  of  Mexico,'  by  Father 
Cave,  having  been  concluded  in  our  '  Library,'  and  being  desirous  of  offering  to  our  sub- 
scribers another  national  historical  work,  we  could  not  hesitate  in  our  choice,  after  seeing 
the  '  History  of  California,'  by  the  celebrated  Vera  Cruz  Jesuit,  Clavijero. 

"The  universal  fame  which  this  distinguished  writer  has  acquired  by  his  'Ancient  History 
of  Mexico,'  obviates  the  necessity  of  any  panegyric  on  the  work  which  we  now  offer  our  sub- 
scribers. It  was  left  unpublished  by  the  author  at  his  death,  but  was  subsequently  published 
iu  Venice  in  1789,  in  two  small  volumes.  The  dilliculties  encountered  by  Clavijero  to  have 
his  great  work  published  in  Spanish,  and  which  finally  compelled  him  to  abandon  the  print- 
ing of  it  in  that  tongue,  without  doubt  induced  him  to  also  write  the  History  of  California 
in  Italian ;  and  we  have  the  satisfaction  of  being  the  first  to  present  it,  returned  to  its  native 
language. 

"We  have  had  in  view  two  translations  from  which  to  select  what  would  serve  for  our 
text,  one  of  which  was  made  by  the  clergyman  Nicolas  Garcia,  of  San  Vicente,  well  known 
among  us  by  his  various  elementary  works ;  the  other  is  by  Don  Diego  Troncoso  and  Buene- 
cino,  also  author  of  an  unpublished  translation  of  the  '  Ancient  History  of  Mexico.' 

"  After  a  thorough  examination  of  both,  we  have  given  preference  to  that  of  Father  San 
Vicente,  as  being  generally  more  exact  and  of  better  style.  Notwithstanding,  a  careful 
revision  has  revealed  some  errors,  inevitable  in  works  of  this  nature,  and  we  have  made  the 
necessary  corrections,  at  times  making  use  of  happier  interpretations  of  Seiior  Troncoso. 
We  also  avail  ourselves  of  an  appendix  inserted  at  the  latter  part  which  he  added  to  his 
translation,  in  which  he  refers  briefly  to  the  progress  of  California,  from  the  expulsion  of  the 
Jesuits  up  to  the  year  1796. 

"We  have  not  copied  the  original  Italian  map,  as,  being  made  in  Europe,  almost  from 
memory,  after  the  death  of  the  author,  it  Cloga  not  merit  confidence;  instead  of  which  we 
shall  give  another,  more  modern,  with  greater  probability  of  correctness. 

*»*  *  *  ***** 

"  It  only  remains  for  us  to  express  our  gratitude  to  Senor  J.  M.  Andrade,  the  proprietor  of 
the  work  now  offered  to  our  readers,  who  generously  furnished  it,  solely  for  the  pleasure  of 
contributing  to  our  Library."  (Biblioteca.) 

From  Xotice  of  the  IVaiislator. — "In  relation  to  ,the  map,  the  Venetian  editors  observe, 
that  it  was  got  up  by  Don  Ramon  Tarros,  who  had  the  use  of  the  maps  of  Father  Consag, 
and  which  were  published  in  the  '  Notices  of  California,'  making  use  of  the  data  furnished 
by  the  author  of  that  work,  and  some  verbal  information  from  missionaries  resident  in  A^en- 
ice.  So  far  as  distances  are  concerned,  especially  in  the  interior  of  tile  peninsula,  they  can't 
be  considered  exact,  as  they  are  mostly  furnished  by  persons  who,  although  sincere,  judged 
from  calculation  or  guess-work." 

From  the  Preface  of  the  Author. — "  Although  'Old  California,'  from  its  discovery,  began 
to  acquire  celebrity  for  the  pearls  which  abound  in  the  neighboring  waters,  and,  although  its 
coasts  were  scarcely  known,  and  almost  nothing  of  the  customs  of  its  inhabitants,  no  one 
was  foimd  during  the  past  two  centuries  to  undertake  writing  its  history.  In  the  present  century, 
after  the  Jesuits  had  made  a  reconnoissance  of  the  greater  portion  of  the  peninsula,  and  had 
established  numerous  missions.  Father  Miguel  Venegas,  a  Mexican  Jesuit — making  use  of  let- 
ters of  the  missionaries,  and  especially  of  those  of  Fatliers  Salvatierra,  Piccolo,  and  Ugarte, 
who  were  the  oldest  and  most  celebrated ;  of  the  manuscript  history  of  Sonora,  made  up  by 
the  indefatigable  Father  Kino,  from  the  diary  of  the  Captain-Governor  of  California,  Estevau 
Rodriguez  Lorenzo ;  of  the  written  accounts  of  the  erudite  Father  Segisnuindo  Taraval,  and 
of  other  original  documents  found  in  the  archives  of  Mexico — wrote  in  a  bulky  volume  its  his- 
tory. The  manuscript  of  Venegas  was  forwarded  to  Madrid  to  Father  Anihes  Marcos  Bur- 
riel,  an  erudite  and  laborious  Jesuit  of  the  province  of  Toledo,  and  well  known  for  his  work 
on  the  'Ancient  Weights  and  Measures  '  of  that  city.     He,  after  having  put  this  history  in 


156  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

better  shape,  cutting  it  down  here,  adding  to  it  there  with  new  material,  in  part  sent  to 
him  from  Mexico,  and  in  part  taken  from  the  archives  in  Madrid,  as  well  as  that  taken  from 
many  authors,  printed  it  at  that  court  in  the  year  1757,  dedicating  it  to  the  Catholic  King  Fer- 
nando VI.,  ill  the  name  of  the  Mexican  province.  Tlie  work  came  to  light  with  tlie  modest 
title  of  '  Notices  of  California,'  inasmuch  as  that  learned  Spaniard  did  not  believe  that  he 
would  have  the  inaterial  necessary  for  a  history;  but  the  English  translator,  afterward  imita- 
ted by  the  Frenchman  and  Hollander,  gave  it  for  title,  'A  Natural  and  Civil  History  of  Cali- 
fornia,' London,  1759.  Notwithstanding,  it  contained  nothing  of  natural  history.  Subse- 
quently Padre  Jacob  Begert,  an  Italian  Jesuit,  who  was  for  seventeen  years  a  missionary  in 
California,  having  returned  home  from  that  country,  wiote  in  German,  and  published  in 
Munich,  ia  1772,  a  new  history  of  California,  of  which,  although  we  know  it  was  well  received 
there,  we  can't  make  use,  as  it  has  not  reached  us. 

"  In  the  Spanish  edition,  it  not  only  lacks  natural  history,  but  also  much  essential  informa- 
tion, and  contains  many  errors,  although  unblamable.  To  these  the  Abbots  Miguel  del 
Barco  and  Lucas  Ventura,  by  their  diligence,  sought  to  apply  a  remedy,  being  practical 
men  in  California,  sincere  and  very  correct.  The  Abbot  del  Barco  was  a  missionary  there 
for  the  space  of  thirty  years,  and  visited  all  the  missions,  and,  although  not  a  professional 
naturalist,  nor  would  the  important  duties  of  his  ministry  permit  of  his  dedicating  himself 
to  the  study  of  nature,  still,  being  of  an  observing  turn  of  mind,  and  gifted  with  a  good  criti- 
cal judgment,  he  could  observe  in  the  course  of  so  many  years,  and  afterward  write  sufficient 
to  give  a  correct  idea  of,  the  soil,  climate,  productions,  and  animals  of  California.  The  Abbot 
Ventura  was  also  eleven  years  missionary  of  Loreto,  and  sohcitor  for  all  the  missions,  by 
virtue  of  which  he  was  weU  informed  in  relation  to  all  the  business  of  the  peninsula.  These 
persons  corrected  the  Spanish  edition,  and  added  thereto  the  essay  on  natural  history,  and 
the  information  lacking,  continuing  the  narration  up  to  1768. 

"  Beheving  that  I  can  render  a  service  to  the  public,  presenting  to  it  a  truthful  and  correct 
history  of  California,  I  have  availed  myself  of  the  said  writings,  omitting  from  the  Spanish 
history  every  thing  which  does  not  directly  or  indirectly  have  a  bearing  on  that  of  said  pen- 
insula. Although^  have  made  use  of  all  the  knowledge  which  I  have  acquired  through  my 
studies  and  investigations,  and  have  obtained  verbal  information  from  persons  who  have  been 
many  years  in  California,  yet,  it  being  very  easy  for  an  author  to  commit  errors  in  writing  the 
history  of  a  country  where  he  has  not  been,  I  have  caused  two  persons  of  the  most  practical 
of  that  country  to  revise  this  work,  and  my  experience  has  shown  that  this  step  has  not  been 
sup.erfluous." 

Note  of  A.  G.  Represent  Tramlator. — Here  follows  an  extended  criticism,  by  said  author, 
of  all  other  historians  who  had  written  on  Mexico  and  California,  in  which  he  handles  them  with- 
out gloves,  demonstrating  that  they  had  written  nothing  reliable  on  the  subject ;  this  refers 
particularly  to  Pau,  Robertson,  Lacroix,  and  Jose  Joaquin  de  Mora,  the  last  of  whom  he 
accuses  of  misspelling  nearly  all  the  Mexican  names,  even  that  of  Javier  in  the  frontispiece  of 
the  work,  which  was  published  in  London  in  1826. 


BOOK  FIRST. 

SITUATION-SOIL-CLIMATE— MINERALS-PLANTS,    AND   ANIMALS    OF    CALIFORNL\. 

Old  or  Lower  California  is  a  peninsula  of  Septentrional  America,  whicli,  being  separated 
from  the  continent  of  New  Spain  at  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado  River  at  33"  N.  latitude,  and 
262°  longitude,  terminates  at  Cape  St.  Lucas  at  22°  2-1'  N.  latitude,  and  268°  longitude.* 

This  cape  is  the  southern  extremity  of  the  peninsula ;  the  Colorado  River  is  the  eastern 
extremity,  and  the  port  of  San  Diego,  situated  in  33*^  N.  latitude,  and  about  256"  longitude, 
may  be  considered  the  western  boundary.  To  the  north  and  northwest  it  borders  on  coun- 
tries of  barbarous  nations,  but  little  known  on  tlie  coasts,  and  not  at  all  in  the  interior ;  on 
the  west  its  shores  are  washed  by  the  Pacific  Oc<-an,  and  on  the  east  by  the  Gulf  of  Califor- 
nia, also  called  the  Red  Sea,  from  the  reddish  appearance  of  its  waters  ;  also  the  Sea  of  Cortes, 
in  honor  of  the  famous  conqueror  of  Mexico,  who  was  the  means  of  its  discovery,  and  navi- 
gated there.  The  length  of  the  peninsula  is  10  degrees  ;  its  width  varies  from  10  to  20  or 
more  leagues. 

The  name  California  was,  in  the  first  place,  given  to  one  part  only,  but  afterward  it  was 
extended  over  the  whole  peninsula  ;  and  some  geographers  have  even  taken  the  liberty  to 
comprise  under  this  name  New  Mexico,  the  Apache  country,  and  other  regions  north,  very 

*  In  relation  to  the  ■recraphical  longitnrle  of  California,  there  is  a  variety  of  opinions  among  geog- 
raphers I  rely  upou  the  observations  made  bv  the  Spanish  ustronomcr,  Vicente  Dos,  of  which  mention 
is  mndo'in  the  supplement  to  the  Gazette  of  Prsaro.  November  13,  1790,  accordimi  to  which  there  is  a 
(iiflerence  of  7  hours  an!  28  minutes  between  the  meridian  of  Paris  and  that  of  San  Jose,  near  Cape 
St.  Lucas,  from  which  difference  it  is  deduced  tliat  the  loui;itude  of  San  Jose,  as  well  as  Cape  St.  Lucas, 
whicli  is  on  the  same  meridian,  is  208'. 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNLV.  157 

distant  from  roal  California,  anil  not  connected  with  it.  The  ctyinolojry  of  the  name  is  not 
known,  hnt  it  is  believed  that  Cortez,  who  was  versed  in  Latin,  called  the  port  where  he 
lirst  arrived,  caVuhi  foniax,  in  consequence  of  the  extreme  heat,  and  that  this  was  afterward 
changed  into  California.* 

Tiie  occidental  coast,  washed  by  the  Pacific,  commencinp;  at  Cape  St.  Lucas,  extends  to 
the  northwest,  and  runs  in  the  same  direction  above  tlie  peninsula,  perhaps  to  the  most  westerly 
extremity  of  America.  The  lands  bordering  on  the  shore  of  this  part  of  California  arc  as  a 
general  thing  dry,  barren,  and  sandy,  iuipoi)ulate(i,  and  destitute  of  all  the  necessaries  of 
life,  even  wood  and  water.  Hesides,  there  is  hardly  a  port  where  vessels  can  find  shelter 
from  the  northwest  winds  which  ])revail  there.  Barks  and  otlicr  small  craft  cannot  make 
the  coast  without  risk  of  being  lost  <ni  the  rocks,  in  consc<[Ucnce  of  the  heavy  sea  prevailing. 
The  ports  best  known  on  that  coast  are  tliose  of  El  llanpies  or  >>antiago,  Magdalena,  Auo 
Xuevo,  San  Juan,  Nepomueeno,  San  Francisco,  and  San  Diego,  and,  above  the  peninsula, 
Monterey,  in  37'  X.  latitude.  The  capes  are  St.  Lucas,  which  is  the  most  notable,  Morro 
Ilermoso,  Engano  (folse  cape),  Ailo  Nuevo,  and  del  Rev.  The  coast  up  to  40°  constantly 
inclines  to  the  northwest ;  from  here  to  the  42°  it  breaks  toward  the  north  ;  and  from  42°, 
where  Cape  ^lendocino  is  situated,  it  returns  to  the  first  direction.  The  discoveries  made 
by  the  Spaniards  up  to  the  year  1770,  terminate  at  Cape  Blanco  of  San  Sebastian  in  latitude 
43".  In  this  or  the  following  year  it  is  said  that  they  advanced  to  55°  and  even  58° ;  but  we, 
not  having  seen  any  account  of  these  voyages,  cannot  say  any  thing  in  relation  to  their  dis- 
coveries. 

The  eastern  coast,  formed  by  the  gulf,  commences  at  Cape  Porfia,  distant  more  than  ten 
leagues  from  Cape  St.  Lucas,  and  runs  in  about  the  same  direction  as  the  other  coast.  Be- 
tween these  two  capes  is  the  port  of  San  Bernabe,  where  ships  from  the  Philippine  Islands 
usually  put  in.  The  ports  on  the  gulf  are  Palmas,  Cerralvo,  La  Paz,  San  Carlos,  Loreto,  San 
Bruno,  Comondu,  La  Concepcion,  Los  Angeles,  San  Luis,  La  Visitacion,  and  San  Felipe  de 
Jesus.  Between  Cerralvo  and  La  I'az  there  is  a  small  peninsula,  which  extends  toward  the 
north,  and  another  between  Comondu  and  La  Concepcion.  The  capes  on  this  coast,  commen- 
cing from  the  Porfia,  are  called  Cerralvo,  San  Lorenzo,  the  Pulpit,  San  Marcos,  the  Virgins, 
San  Miguel,  and  San  Gabriel.  From  31°  the  coast  breaks  toward  the  north,  and  much  more 
from  the  32°,  which  direction  it  follows  up  to  the  Colorado  River,  the  terminus  of  the  penin- 
sula and  the  gulf 

Coming  down  from  the  mouth  of  this  river  toward  the  southeast,  the  shores  of  the 
Pincria,  Sonora,  Ostimuri,  Sinaloa,  Culiacan,  Chiametta,  and  Acaponeta,  are  found,  all  prov- 
inces of  New  Spain,  until  you  arrive  at  Cape  Corricntes,  situated  at  20°  26'  N.  latitude,  and 
about  270°  W.  longitude.  This  cape  and  that  of  St.  Lucas  form  the  mouth  of  the  gulf,  by  which 
communication  is  had  with  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Following  down  from  Cape  Cdrrientes,  in 
the  same  direction  southeasterly  along  the  dioceses  of  Xueva  Galicia,  Michoacon,  and  Mexico, 
you  arrive  at  Acapulco,  where  ships  from  the  Philippine  Islands  go  to  discharge. 

In  both  of  the  seas  of  California  there  are  innumerable  islands,  but  generally  they  are 
small  and  uninhabited.  The  largest  in  the  gulf  arc  Cerralvo,  Espiritu  Santo,  San  Jose,  Car- 
men, Angel  Custodio,  and  Tiburon ;  and  in  the  Pacific  are  Huamalgua,  Cerros,  La  Ceniza, 
Pajaros,  and  Santa  Cataliua,  of  whicli  something  will  be  said  when  the  opportunity  oQcrs. 

§  3.— SOIL  AND  CLIMATE. 

The  aspect  of  Lower  California,  generally  speaking,  is  disagreeable  and  forbidding,  and  its 
broken  land  is  extremely  rocky  and  sandy;  it  lacks  water,  and  is  covered  with  thorny  plants, 
where  it  is  capable  of  producing  vegetation,  and,  where  not,  it  is  covered  with  heaps  of  rocks 
and  sand.  The  air  is  hot  and  dry,  and,  on  the  waters,  both_  sides,  pernicious  to  navigators, 
and  when  a  certain  latitude  is  reached  causes  a  mortal  scurvy. 

The  whirlwinds  which  sometimes  occur  are  so  furious  that  they  uproot  trees  and  over- 
throw the  huts.  The  rains  are  so  rare  that,  should  two  or  three  showers  iall  during  the  year, 
the  Californians  consider  themselves  peculiarly  blessed. 

Springs  are  few  and  scarce.  So  far  as  rivers  are  concerned,  there  is  not  one  on  tlie  whole 
peninsula,  although  the  rivulets  of  ilulcge  and  San  Jose  del  Cabo  were  dignified  with  that  name. 
The  last  runs  through  San  Bernabe,  and,  after  a  course  of  scant  two  miles,  empties  into  the 
gulf  at  27°.  All  the  rest  are  brooks  or  torrents,  which,  being  dry  the  whole  year,  when  it 
rains  contain  some  water,  and  their  current  is  so  rapid  that  they  turn  every  thing  upside 
down,  and  carry  destruction  to  the  few  settlements  which  exist  liere.  The  Colorado, 
although  a  large   river,  as  it  is  at   its   mouth,  is  separated   from  the   peninsula   by  high 

*  The  famous  bnccanocr.  Drake,  called  it  "New  Albion,"  in  honor  of  his  country ;  the  padre  Scherer, 
Gorman  Jesnit.  and  V>c  For,  a  Freucli  geo^raplicr.  calli-d  il  Caroline  Island,  which  nanu;  was  boinLr  used 
in  the  time  of  Carlos  II.  Kin;,'  of  Spain,  when  Ww  pi'iiinsiila  was  bclii'vuil  to  be  an  island,  but  these  and 
other  names  were  soon  fonrottenj  and  that  which  Cortcz  u'ave  ))r(v.iiled.  We  will  add  here  thi;  opinion 
of  the  cx-Jesiiit,  thf;  learni'dJose  Campoi,  as  to  Die  name  Calitoniia.  He  thinks  that  it  is  composed  of 
the  Spanish  word  '•  cald"  u  small  bay,  and  the  Lathi  ••  fhrn/r,"  which  ei-rnitios  cavcni.  there  beuit;  near 
Cape  St.  Lucas,  formed  in  the  rocks,  a  £rrotto  so  porfect'that  it  seems  a  wlirk  of  art.  From  these  circum- 
stances it  is  very  probable  Cortez  gave  the  name,  half  Spanish  and  half  Latin,  to  that  port.  There  is 
another  belief,  that  it  m.ay  be  derived  from  the  two  covahiacd—cala-fornax  and  cala-y-fomuc. 


158  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

mountain?!,  and  can  scarcely  be  of  any  advantage  to  it.  This  river,  which  rises  in 
unknown  parts  in  the  north,  is  greatly  augmented  by  the  waters  of  the  Gila,  also  a 
large  river,  which  empties  into  it  at  35^,  from  whence  it  runs  southeasterly  to  the 
34th°,  where  it  resumes  its  first  course  south  to  the  mouth,  which  has  a  width  of  nearly 
one  league,  but  is  interrupted  by  three  small  barren  islands,  which  divide  the  course  of  the 
waters.  Large  vessels  cannot  approach  this  portion  of  the  gulf  to  the  mouth  of  the  river  on 
account  of  the  shallowness,  neither  can  small  vessels  pass  it,  through  the  strong  current  and 
the  drift-wood  which  comes  down  :  thus  this  river  cannot  be  useful  to  the  commerce  of  Cali- 
fornia, with  the  people  who  inhabit  its  banks.  Near  the  mouth  of  the  river  there  are  two 
lakes,  the  water  of  which  is  of  a  reddish  cast  (from  which  the  river  takes  its  name),  and  has 
caustic  properties  to  that  extent  that  wherever  it  touches  the  body  it  immediately  blisters, 
creating  a  burning  sensation,  lasting  several  days.  It  is  probable  that  this  effect  is  produced 
by  a  certain  bituminous  mineral  which  is  found  in  the  bottom  of  said  lakes,  noticed  by  navi- 
gators on  lifting  their  anchors.  If  the  dews  were  frequent  enough  they  might,  as  in  Peru, 
supply  the  lack  of  rain,  but  they  are  not. 

Examining  particularly  the  soil  of  the  peninsula,  a  great  difference  is  found  in  it.  In  the 
southern  part,  from  Cape  St.  Lucas  to  24°,  it  is  not  so  broken,  neitlier  are  springs  about  the 
hills  so  scarce,  but  the  coasts  are  very  arid,  and  the  air  along  them  very  hot.  The  country  of 
the  Guaicuras,  situated  between  24°  and  26°,  is  the  least  mountainous,  but  at  the  same  time  the 
driest  and  most  sterile  of  all  California.  That  of  the  Cochimies,  which  from  25°  extends  in 
part  to  33°,  is  the  most  broken  and  rocky;  but  from  27°  up  the  air  is  milder.  Toward  the 
SOth°  cold  commences  to  be  felt  and  sometimes  snow  falls  ;  but  the  land,  although  not  so  broken 
or  rocky,  is  very  sterile  and  dry  up  to  32°.  At  the  last  parallel  the  natural  aspect  of  the  country 
changes  ;  here  can  be  seen  tracts  of  arable  land  well  watered,  and  more  adorned  with  vegetation. 

Padre  Kino,  the  celebrated  missionary  to  Sonora,  of  whom  we  shall  make  frequent  men- 
tion in  this  history,  having  forded  the  river  Colorado  between  3-4°  and  35°,  found  in  the 
country  to  the  west  of  the  river  beautiful  plains  with  abundance  of  water,  good  grass,  and  a 
luxuriant  growth  of  trees.  The  same  was  said  of  the  Pacific  coast,  between  34°  and  43°,  by 
the  Spaniards,  who,  at  the  beginning  of  the  last  century,  made  a  reconnoissance  by  order  of 
the  Catholic  king,  but,  as  they  are  not  on  the  peninsula,  it  is  notour  provinceto  treat  of  them. 

§  3.— MOUNTAINS,   STONE,   AND  MINERALS. 

The  mountains  of  California  form  two  cordilleras,  which  extend  the  whole  breadth  of  the 
peninsula,  leaving  but  little  level  land  :  that  of  the  southern  part  is  in  the  middle,  at  equal 
distance  from  the  sea  on  both  sides,  and  stone  is  so  scarce  on  the  mountains  that  it  is  found 
necessary  to  use  bricks  for  building  purposes ;  that  of  the  northern  part  is  longer  than  the 
other,  and  approaches  the  gulf  more  than  the  Pacific,  and  its  mountains  are  higher  and  more 
rugged,  and  so  stony  that  all  who  see  them  are  struck  with  wonder,  it  seeming  that,  besides 
the  universal  flood  of  water,  there  had  been  another  on  the  peninsula  of  stones.  Among  these 
mountains,  at  28°,  there  is  a  volcano,  to  show  that  this  unfortunate  country  is  not  exempt 
from  this  calamity.  This  volcano  was  discovered  by  the  missionaries  in  1746,  but  since  the 
Spaniards  have  been  there  no  eruption  has  occurred,  nor  earthquake  felt. 

From  the  structure  of  these  mountains  it  is  inferred  that  the  peninsula  was  formerly 
covered  by  the  waters  of  the  sea.  Near  Kadakaamang,  situated  inland  at  28",  there  is  a 
mountain  of  clayey  earth,  on  which,  at  a  perpendicular  lieight  of  over  200  feet,  a  stratum  of 
marine  shells  is  found  which  seem  clammed  into  the  clay.  The  thickness  of  this  stratum  is 
over  two  feet,  and  is  situated  horizontally  about  half  way  up  the  ascent.  At  a  distance  of 
some  three  leagues  from  this  place  there  are  large  quantities  of  oysters  found  in  the  moun- 
tains, so  disproportionable,  that  a  missionary  having  taken  one  home,  on  weighing  it, 
without  the  cover  or  the  dish,  found  its  weight  23  lbs.  Span.,  very  compact,  and  nearly  18 
inches  long,  and  9  in  width,  and  4  in  thickness.  In  California,  as  in  other  places,  very  good 
lime  is  made  from  the  shells  of  these  oysters.  Near  JIulcge,  a  place  situated  at  27°  north 
latitude,  and  near  the  gulf  shore,  there  is  a  high  mountain  of  very  hard  stone,  which  they 
use  for  building;  and,  whether  it  is  taken  from  the  foot  or  the  top,  shells  are  found  embedded, 
even  in  the  inner  portions,  and  cavities  are  seen  which  appear  as  though  they  liad  been  occu- 
pied by  marine  bodies  which  had  been  consumed  by  the  course  of  time — this  proves  that  the 
mountain  was  formed  in  the  sea.  Stone  of  this  kind  is  very  common  on  the  whole  gulf  coast. 
Three  leagues  from  Loreto,  a  small  capital  of  the  peninsula,  in  a  place  surrounded  by  high 
mountains,  there  is  also  a  hillock  formed  of  shells,  and  another  similar  near  the  mission  of 
San  L\iis,  over  10  leagues  from  the  sea.  If  to  these  things  are  added  the  many  vestiges 
which  are  there  found  of  volcanic  enqitions,  and  the  numerous  islands  with  which  Califor- 
nia is  surrounded,  it  would  seem  undoubted  that  great  revolutions  of  Nature  had  transpired 
there.  Besides,  it  is  manifest  that  the  sea  has  receded  on  both  shores  of  the  peninsula.  The 
Jesuit  missionaries  of  Loreto  observed  tliat  the  waters  in  less  than  40  years  had  receded  some 
distance  from  the  shore,  and  this  decrease  is  more  palpable  on  the  west  coast,  as  the  whole 
space  between  the  sea  and  the  hills  is  completely  covered  with  .beach  sand,  although  some  of 
these  are  distant  from  the  sea  10  leagues.  It  is  certain  that  Lower  California  has  a  greater  width 
than  formerly,  and  we  can  predict  with  certainty  that  this  width  will  continue  to  increase  in 
the  future,  and  perhaps  some  day  that  multitude  of  islands  Avill  be  united  to  the  peninsula. 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFOR^^A.  159 

Among  the  stones  of  which  the  niouiitiHns  of  California  are  full,  there  are  flint,  pumice, 
grindstone,  crystals,  gypsum,  and  others  of  little  account.  It  is  believed  that  marble 
exists  in  the  northern  [)art,  but  that  has  ni)t  been  ascertained  up  to  the  ])rcscnt  time. 

Stone  crystal  is  generally  found  in  hexagonal  pieces,  aliout  the  missi(Mi  of  Santa  (iertrudes, 
below  the  'J9th  jiarallel.  There  are  large  (piantities  of  pumiie-stone  around  the  volcano. 
Common  gypsum  abounds  in  many  places,  but  on  U\o.  Iiill  on  the  island  of  San  Marco,  in  the 
gulf,  near  Mulcge,  a  peculiar  gypsum,  crystallized  in  transparent  {)icces,  of  lour  or  five  inches 
in  length,  about  18  inches  in  width,  and  two  inches  thick,  is  found,  which,  when  powdered, 
makes  a  very  excellent,  line  white.  A  missionary  succeeded  in  nuiking  (vidrieras)  show-cases, 
or  windows  of  it,  tlie  same  as  those  made  of  alabaster.  In  various  places  in  California  there 
are  numerous  quarries  of  tezontle,  a  stone  highly  appreciated  in  the  capital  of  Mexico,  a  de- 
S';ri|ition  of  wlii«h  we  gave  in  the  ancient  history  of  that  kingdom.  The  inhabitants  of  said 
peninsula  number  among  their  stones  the  nn'icara  and  tlie  rizo,  two  species  of  madrepore, 
washed  up  on  the  beach  by  the  water  of  the  gulf,  and  which  also  make  lime. 

In  sterile  countries,  sometimes,  the  barrenness  of  the  soil  is  compensated  by  the  richness 
of  its  minerals,  but  in  California  it  is  not  so.  Up  to  the  present  time  no  ores  have  been  found, 
except  gold  and  silver,  and  these  in  small  cpiantities.  In  the  year  1748  a  person  in  easy 
circumstances,*  having  enriched  himself  in  the  pearl-fishery,  commenced  to  work  some 
veins  of  silver  which  were  discovered  in  the  south,  about  23°;  this  he  continued  for  some  years, 
passing  frommine  to  mine  without  materially  increasing  his  capital,  tiold  has  also  been  found 
in  some  of  the  mountains,  but  little  in  one  called  Kosario,  in  about  281°.  Mines  of  silver 
were  discovered,  but  would  not  pay  to  work  them,  from  the  lack  of  every  thing  required  at 
that  place,  including  wood  and  water.  There  is  also  in  the  district  of  Mulcge  a  mountain  of 
reddish  clay,  which  contains  gold,  according  to  the  opinion  of  intelligent  persons.  But  let 
this  be  as  it  may,  one  thing  is  certain  :  it  would  not  be  to  the  advantage  of  the  Californians  to 
have  any  thing  on  their  peninsula  to  attract  bad  people,  generally  the  kind  who  seek  the 
precious  metals  from  the  bowels  of  the  earth. 

The  other  minerals  of  California  entitled  to  mention  are  sulphur,  vitriol,  ochre,  an(J  chalk. 
At  the  margin  or  brow  of  the  volcano  a  large  quantity  of  pure  sulphur  is  foimd,  which  any 
one  can  gather  without  trouble,  it  being  on  the  surface  of  the  ground  ;  it  also  exists  at  28° 
on  the  beach  of  the  Pacific.  Places  where  it  is  found  are  known  by  the  color  of  the  ground, 
it  being  distinct  from  the  rest ;  digging  here,  a  little  sulphur  is  found,  although  mixed  with 
earth,  but  it  is  probable  that  it  might  be  found  as  pure  as  that  of  the  volcano  by  going  down 
a  sufficient  depth. 

Vitriol  or  copperas  is  found  in  small  crusts,  in  some  of  the  moist  places  in  the  district  of 
the  mission  of  Guadalupe,  and  other  places  in  the  north.  These  crusts  are  formed,  perhaps, 
from  the  sediment  of  the  water,  which  is  saturated  with  copperas  where  it  runs  through  the 
depo«i^s  of  it.  In  the  same  mountain  of  reddish  clay,  near  Mulege,  where  gold  is  supposed  to 
exist,  numerous  veins  of  yellow  ochre  have  been  observed,  which  was  formerly  used  by  the 
Indians  for  painting  their  bodies.  There  is  also  found  in  this  mountain  chalk,  or  pipe-clay, 
which  is  a  species  of  ceruse,  very  white  mineral  earth,  very  much  like  white  lead.  They  use 
it  in  California  for  whitening  buildings,  but,  as  it  makes  such  a  brilliant  white  as  to  dazzle  the 
sight,  they  qualify  it  with  glue.     In  Mexico  it  is  used  for  i)olishing  silver-ware. 

As  regards  salts,  there  are  common  salt,  saltpetre,  and  genia.  California  being  almost  en- 
tirely surrounded  by  water,  there  must  be  good  salt-mines  (salinas)  found,  and,  in  fact,  there 
are  many  ;  but  there  is  none  to  be  compared  with  that  of  Carman  Island,  situated  in  the  gulf 
at  26°,  abreast  of  the  port  of  Loreto,  from  which  it  is  distant  four  leagues.  This  island,  which 
is  13  leagues  in  circumference,  is  all  unoccupied,  and  nothing  is  supplied  there,  exce[)t  rats 
and  a  large  number  of  serpents.  On  the  west  side  there  is  a  rugged  mountain,  but  on  the 
east  side  the  land  is  level  and  contains  that  salt-mine,  which,  without  fear  of  contradiction,  is 
one  of  the  best  in  the  world ;  it  commences  at  a  distance  of  half  a  league  from  the  sea,  and 
extends  so  far  that  the  end  cannot  be  seen,  presenting  the  spectacle  of  an  immense  plain, 
covered  with  snow.  The  salt  is  the  whitest,  crystallized,  and  pure,  without  mixture  of  earth 
or  any  foreign  substance  ;  although  it  is  not  as  hard  as  stone,  picks  are  required  to  break  it 
up,  and  in  this  way  they  divide  it  in  square  cakes  of  a  size  that  each  workman  can  carry  one 
on  his  back.  This  work  is  performed  during  the  morning  and  late  in  the  afternoon,  on  ac- 
count of  the  intense  heat,  and  reflection  of  the  sun's  rays.  Although  all  the  fleets  of  Europe 
might  gather  there  to  load  salt  from  that  deposit,  they  never  could  exhaust  it,  not  only  on  ac- 
count of  its  great  extent,  but  principally  because  salt  is  rejjroduced  as  soon  as  taken  out. 
Seven  or  eight  days  after  taking  out  a  sufficient  ((uantity  to  load  a  vessel,  the  excavation  is 
filled  with  new  salt.  If  this  salt-mine  were  in  any  country  m  Kuro|)e  it  would  ]iroduce  enough 
to  the  sovereign  to  make  the  income  greater  than  that  of  the  famous  salt-mines  of  Williska,  in 
Poland,  in  whose  horrid  depths  thousands  of  slaves  are  entombed  to  get  out  its  salt;  but  this 
of  the  gulf  only  serves  to  supply  the  few  inhabitants  of  the  peninsula.  Yet  in  the  region 
where  God  placed  it,  if  the  industry  of  the  Sinaloa  and  other  parts  of  the  coast  could  be  ex- 
cited, it  would  be  more  useful,  because,  fish  there  being  abundant  and  excellent  (as  we  shall 

*  Don  ^fannel  de  Ocio,  formerly  a  soldier  at  the  Presidio  of  Loreto.  and  who,  beinpr  a  licentiate  of  the 
militia,  cnOTcred  in  the  pearl-fishery,  and  had  such  cood  luck  that  he  hecame  almost  the  absolute  owner 
of  this  branch  of  commerce.    Thishas  been  the  only  rich  man  of  California. 


IQQ  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

hereafter  show),  and  having  all  the  salt  requh-ed,  without  cost,  they  might  make  a  profitable 
business  of  curing  fish  for  the  interior  provinces  of  New  Spain. 

Two  deposits  of  rock-salt  (sal-gema)  have  been  discovered  on  the  peninsula,  one  on  the 
Pacific  coast  at  26°,  and  the  other  at  28",  on  the  plain  adjacent  to  the  San  Ignacio  mission. 
The  salt  taken  out  of  them  is  similar  in  whiteness  and  purity  to  that  of  Carman  Island,  but  is 
not  so  smooth  and  relucent.  In  the  mountain  of  Rosario  there  is  pure  nitre,  and  in  various 
places  it  is  found  mixed,  with  earth.  That  called  by  Mexicans  tequizquitl,  and  by  the  Span- 
iards of  Mexico,  tequizquite,  is  more  the  froth  of  nitre,  which  they  use  in  New  Spain,  as  in 
Egypt,  for  making  lye,  for  whitening  linen,  and  for  cooking  vegetables,  which,  by  its  use,  are 
made  more  mellow  and  palatable. 

§  4.— VEGETABLES  AND  THEIR  DIVISION. 

Perhaps  persons  who  are  inclined  to  natural  history  will  want  us,  in  passing  to  the  vege- 
table kingdom,  to  classify  the  plants  of  California  according  to  some  system  adopted  by  modern 
naturalists ;  but  neither  the  vegetables  of  that  peninsula  are  so  numerous  as  to  require  such 
a  method,  nor  by  following  it  would  we  do  the  subject  justice,  according  to  our  notions  ;  there- 
fore we  shall  adopt  the  same  division  as  in  the  History  of  Mexico,  as  more  suitable  for  the 
comprehension  of  all  classes  of  persons. 

§  5.— NATIVE  PLANTS  OF  CALIFORNIA  WHICH  ARE  USEFUL  FOR  THEIR  FRCTT. 

Among  the  plants  useful  for  their  fruit,  some  are  indigenous,  and  some  are  exotic. 
Among  the  first,  the  pitahaya,*  as  well  for  its  singular  form  as  because  it  supplies  the  miser- 
able Californians  with  their  principal  food  and  the  most  delicious  fruit.  There  are  two  species 
of  pitahayas,  very  different  from  each  other,  not  only  because  one  yields  a  sweet  fruit  and  the 
other  tart,  but  also  because  the  plants  have  different  forms. 

The  pitahaya  of  the  first  species  is  very  common  in  Mexico  and  other  countries  of  America, 
but  in  none  are  they  so  fine  as  in  California.  From  its  trunk,  which  scarcely  grows  a  foot  high, 
spread  out,  10,  12,  or  more  feet  high,  branches  as  thick  as  a  man's  arm,  arranged  in  rows, 
parallel  and  straight  their  whole  length,  except  when  they  first  sprout,  where  the  lateral  have 
a  curve  propbrtionate  to  their  distance  from  the  centre.  These  branches  have  a  green  bark, 
tinged  with  yellow,  with  creases  or  flutings  running  their  whole  length  in  a  straight  line,  about 
an  inch  apart,  instead  of  leaves,  which  they  are  entirely  bare  of;  they  have  strong  thorns  ar- 
ranged in  the  shape  of  stars,  and  are  so  prickly  that  no  purt  of  them  can  be  topched  without 
getting  pricked.  Under  the  bark  it  has  a  small  thickness  of  green  pulp,  very  juicy,  inside  of 
which  is  a  wooden  tube  full  of  a  white  pith,  which,  when  dry,  burns  well,  and  serves  for  light 
instead  of  tapers  ;  near  the  ends  of  the  branches  there  is  a  very  pretty  flower-bloom,  white, 
tinged  with  bright  red,  but  without  fragrance,  and  is  succeeded  by  the  fruit  called  pitahayas 
by  Spaniards,  and  tammia,  or  damniia,  by  the  Cochimies.  This  fruit  is  round,  of  the  size  of  a 
large  peach,  and  also  has  thorns ;  at  first  it  is  green,  but  when  it  ripens  it  turns  fed  or  yellow — 
that  with  a  red  skin  has  a  pulp  of  a  beautiful  blood  color,  and  that  with  yellow  skin  has  a 
pulp  white,  yellow,  or  golden.  The  skin  is  rather  thick,  but  soft  and  easily  removed ;  the 
pulp  is  sweet,  pleasant,  refreshing,  and  healthy.  It  is  eaten,  together  with  the  seed,  of  which 
it  is  full,  and  something  like  the  seeds  of  figs,  although  smaller.  The  red  pitahaya  colors  the 
urine  for  which  reason  strangers,  on  eating  it  for  the  first  time,  have  sometimes  become 
alarmed,  thinking  they  had  burst  a  blood-vessel. 

In  the  southern  part  of  the  peninsula  they  commence  gathering  the  sweet  pitahaya  in  the 
early  part  of  June,  and  finish  at  the  end  of  August.  In  the  north  they  commence  later,  and 
its  greatest  abundance  is  in  August ;  but  when  it  rains  a  little  more  than  common,  the  crop  is 
very  small  or  entirely  worthless,  there  being  no  plant  which  moisture  harms  so  much  as  the 
pitahaya.  The  Californians  use  in  gathering  them  a  pole  or  a  cane,  having  on  the  end  a  thin 
bone  in  the  shape  of  a  hook,  to  separate  the  fruit  from  the  plant,  and  a  net  to  catch  them  in. 
They  now  get  out  the  thorns  with  a  little  stick,  this  being  easily  done,  when  ripe  ;  in  this  way 
they  go  on  gathering  and  eating  until  they  gorge  themselves,  taking  home  any  remaining. 
During  the  harvest  they  travel  all  day  in  the  woods  and  over  plains,  hunting  ripe  pitahayas, 
and  this  is  for  them,  as  we  shall  hereafter  refer  to,  the  most  joyous  season. 

The  harvest  of  the  sweet  kind  being  over,  they  go  after  the  other  kind,  called  tajua  by  the 
Cochimies,  which  last  through  September  and  October,  and  years  when  aljundant  they  last 
into  November.  The  branches  of  this  are  also  fluted,  thorny,  and  without  leaves,  but  the 
fluting  is  not  so  fine,  and  the  thorns  larger,  thicker,  and  stronger.  .They  are  also  straiglit  and 
parallel,  with  like  uniformity  as  those  of  tlie  sweet  kind,  but  they  run  in  different  directions, 
without  order  or  symmetry,  and,  lying  on  the  ground,  take  root,  forming  new  plants,  which, 
becoming  entangled  with  each  other,  make  a  thicket  disagreeable  to  the  view  and  inaccessible 
for  animals.  This  plant  is  also  different  from  the  first  in  regard  to  where  it  grows :  the  first 
thrives  in  any  place,  in  the  woods  or  on  the  plains,  where  it  is  arid  and  dry  ;  the  last  is  not 
found  anywhere  except  on  level  land  near  the  coast,  or  if,  by  chance,  it  is  found  in  the  woods, 

*  The  French  call  this  plant  the  thorny  candle  (ciergc  ^pinenx),  but  this  name  only  applies  to  the  first 
kind,  as  will  appear  by  its  description.  We  say  the  same  of  the  name,  6rgano,  which  in  Mexico  yields 
abundantly. 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNU.  Id 

it  is  sterile.  The  flower  of  tlic  tiijui'i  is  eardial,  of  wliitc  or  red  eolor,  and  six  or  seven  inclics 
long  ;  its  fruit,  even  more  hi<;lily  esteemed  tlinii  the  sweet,  is  splierieal,  of  the  size  of  an  oranj^e, 
also  has  thorns,  and  is  red  inside  and  out.  When  it  is  ripe  it  has  a  tart  flavor,  very  ajjrecable, 
and,  like  the  sWeet,  turns  the  urine  a  blood-color.  In  Mexico  there  arc  tart  pitahayas,  but  of 
inferior  flavor  to  those  of  California. 

The  gkakil,  or  pirambnyo,  as  the  Spaniards  call  it,  is  a  fruit  of  another  plant,  with  pulpous 
branches,  fluted,  without  leaves,  thorny,  and  similar  in  shajie  to  those  of  the  pitahaya,  but  it 
is  smaller,  its  flutini;  is  wider,  and  its  thorns  are  smaller  and  fewer ;  the  fruit,  althoufcli  similai 
in  tigure  to  the  pitahaya,  is  mueh  smaller,  of  a  deejjcr  red,  and  inferior  in  flavor;  it  is  earlier 
than  the  pitahaya,  and  does  not  last  so  long. 

The  cardon  of  the  peninsula,  thus  called  by  S]ianiards,  is  a  plant  of  gigantic  proportions, 
among  the  pulpous  and  grooved  kind  ;  its  trunk  is  thick  and  the  branches  fluted,  thorny,  and 
witliout  leaves ;  they  grow  straight  and  parallel,  like  those  of  the  pitahaya,  but  higher  and 
thicker ;  they  grow  40  feet  high  and  of  a  proportionate  and  uniform  thickness  the  whole  length  ; 
its  structure  is  similar  to  that  of  the  branches  of  the  pitahaya ;  its  bark  is  of  a  prettier  green, 
and  docs  not  have  so  many  thorns.  On  the  extremity  of  the  boughs  the  fruit  grows,  which  is 
shaped  like  the  pear,  with  a  yellow  skin,  and  inside  contains  a  viscous  liquid  of  a  bright-red  color, 
some  spherical  seeds,  black,  brilliant,  and  of  the  size  of  coriander-seeds.  These  seeds  arc 
the  only  benefit  which  the  Califoruians  derive  from  this  great  plant.  In  order  to  make  them 
eatable,  they  are  are  exposed  to  the  heat  of  the  sun  and  fire,  which  takes  away  the  viscous 
properties,  after  which  they  toast  them  to  preserve  them.  The  missionaries  found  a  way  of 
making  the  branches  more  useful :  they  would  take  a  piece  of  the  wood  and  pound  it  up,  ex- 
press the  juice,  and,  boiling  it,  at  the  same  time  skimming,  until  boiled  down  to  a  certain  de- 
gree, make  of  this  a  balsam  good  for  wounds  and  ulcers. 

"^^he  viznaga  esj)inosa  is  another  species  of  pulpous  plant,  fluted,  without  leaves,  and 
thorny  ;  what  is  more  singular  is,  that  all  the  rest  of  this  kind  are  not  only  bare  of  leaves, 
but  also  of  branches,  and  consist  solely  of  a  trunk  or  stalk,  pulpous,  juicy,  green,  very  thick, 
and  from  two  to  four  feet  high.  Besides  the  small  thorns  with  which  it  is  covered,  it  has, 
growing  near  the  top,  others  very  distinct,  of  an  osseous  substance,  strong,  about  six  inches 
long,  of  a  white  and  red  color,  and  with  a  small  curve  at  the  end.  In  New  Spain  some  use 
these  thorns  for  cleaning  the  teeth,*  and  in  some  of  the  missions  of  California  they  were  used, 
instead  of  needles,  for  making  stockings,  straightening  the  point  and  reducing  the  size  of  the 
thickest  part.  Amongst  these  thorns  of  the  viznaga  there  grows  a  beautiful  flower-blossom, 
of  white,  red,  and  yellow  coloi',  to  which  its  fruit  succeeds,  much  smaller  than  that  of  the  tam- 
mia,  and  full,  like  the  cardon,  of  viscous  liquid,  and  seeds  which  the  Californians  prepare  and 
eat,  as  they  do  the  seeds  of  it.  In  Mexico  they  make  a  good  sweetmeat  of  the  juicy  pulp  of 
this  viznaga. 

The  nopal  (cochineal  fig-tree,  or  Indian  prickly  pear-tree),  well  known  in  Europe,  differs 
somewhat  from  the  plants  which  we  have  described,  because,  although  barren  of  leaves,  its 
branches  have  something  the  form  of  leaves,  and  this  is  the  name  vulgarly  given  to  it.f  In 
California  there  are  many  kinds  of  nopales,_but  inferior  to  those  of  Mexico  in  size  and  quality 
of  fruit.  Of  the  last  the  missionaries  carried  to  the  peninsula  various  kinds,  that  took  root 
and  thrived  well  in  that  arid  soil.  Californians  eat  not  only  the  pulp  but  also  the  inner  skin 
of  the  fruit,  and  here,  as  well  as  in  Mexico,  the  tenderest  pencas  are  eaten,  boiled,  and  stewed. 
The  name  which  the  Coehimies  give  to  the  fruit  of  the  nopal  is  simply  the  letter  A  (sounded 
ah).  It  is  certainly  wonderful  that  the  plants  which  we  have  treated,  and  others  which  we 
shall  reach  farther  on,  should  have  more  juice  in  arid  localities  than  other  kinds  in  wet  places  ; 
but  it  is  even  more  singular  that  they  grow  and  thrive  with  only  the  little  or  no  dews  which  fall, 
although  they  may  not  get  rain  ibr  ten  months  or  more,  as  sometimes  happens  in  Calilbrnia. 
I  believe  that  these  plants  arc  juicier,  because  they  perspire  less,  through  not  having  leaves,  as 
these,  according  to  the  well-founded  belief  of  naturalists,  are  the  principal  organs  of  perspira- 
tion for  vegetables,  consequently  we  may  well  suppose  that  the  Creator  did  not  supply  these 
plants  with  leaves,  as  He  destined  them  to  live  in  dry  countries. 

The  ciruelo  (plum-tree  of  California)  is  very  different  from  the  real  plum,  and  only  received 
this  name  from  the  Spaniards  from  the  resemblance  of  the  fruit.  It  is  of  medium  height,  its 
leaves  are  dentatcd ;  the  bark,  both  of  trunk  and  branches,  whitish,  and  project  horizontally 
farther  than  would  seem  to  comport  with  the  height  of  the  tree.  Its  fruit,  although  similar  in 
color  and  shape  to  the  brown  plum,  is  smaller,  rough  to  the  taste,  and  only  agreeable  to  the 
palate  of  those  miseralde  Indians  accustomed  to  eat  every  thing  which  is  put  before  them; 
l)ut  the  kernel  of  the  stone  is  very  pleasing  to  the  taste,  and  is  esteemed  even  by  the  Span- 
iards. This  tree  is  a  native  of  the  southern  part,  and  is  not  found  in  any  other  part  of  the 
peninsula. 

Anaba  is  the  name  of  a  fruit  similar  to  the  fig,  and  of  the  tree  which  produces  it.  This  is 
large,  the  bark  of  trunk  and  branches  whitish,  like  that  of  the  fig,  and  its  fruit  simil.ir  in 
color  and  shape  to  the  early  fig  (breva),  but  smaller,  not  so  juicy,  and  without  the  delicious 
sweet  flavor  of  our  figs.     Notwithstanding,  the  natives  are  so  fond  of  it  that  when  they  hear 

*  The  Spaniards  did  not  call  tliis  plant  vizna;»a.  only  on  account  of  its  thorns  being  used  for  toothpicks, 
like  the  real  viznn<ja ;  beyond  this  there  is  no  similarity  between  them, 
t  In  Mexico  these  broad  flat  branches  are  generally  called  pencas 
11 


1(32  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

of  ripe  fruit  on  the  anaba-tree  they  will  travel  four  or  five  leagues  to  find  it  and  obtain  a 
supply.  The  v/ood  of  this  tree  is  entirely  worthless,  and  its  roots  are  usually  wider  than  they 
are  thick,  because  it  generally  grows  among  the  rocks,  and  its  roots  either  get  in  the  cracks 
or  extend  over  the  rocks.  In  Mexico,  where  it  is  known  by  the  name  of  zalate,  it  grows  better 
and  is  more  fruitful. 

The  medesa  is  a  large  fruit-tree  which  does  not  bear  fruit  every  year,  and,  on  eminences, 
hardly  ever ;  its  bark  is  of  a  whitish  green,  its  leaves  are  few  and  thin,  and  its  fruit  similar 
to  the  bean,  growing  iii  small  pods.  This  fruit  is  much  liked  by  the  Indians,  Avho  pick  it  and 
toast  it  for  consumption  in  winter;  cattle  relish  eating  the  young  branches  of  this  tree,  but  its 
wood  is  fit  for  nothing,  except  fuel.     In  Loreto  the  Indians  call  it  dipnii. 

The  asigandii  is  a  leguminous  shrub  which  grows  near  brooks  and  running  streams ;  its 
branches  are  thorny,  its  fruit  a  little  larger  than  whe;it,  and  enclosed  in  narrow  pods  about 
six  inches  in  length.  As  this  fruit  is  the  first  to  ripen,  and  as  at  this  time  great  scarcity  pre- 
vails, the  Indians  gather  it,  although  really  it  is  not  eatable,  but  they  toast  it  and  pound  it  up 
as  they  do  other  seeds. 

The  fetor  which  it  throws  out  when  being  toasted  is  very  disagreeable,  as  also  is  the  breath 
of  those  who  eat  it,  which  is  insupportable,  in  that  season  when  they  gather  in  church  or  any 
close  place. 

The  huisache  (a  name  taken  from  the  Mexican  "  huatzaxin")  is  a  leguminous  shrub,  thorny, 
and  has  narrow  leaves,  grows  certain  pods,  which,  although  not  fit  to  eat,  are  made  use  of 
both  in  California  and  Mexico  for  making  writing-ink,  adding  a  quantity  of  copperas.  Cattle 
eat  the  tender  branches,  but  it  imparts  a  bad  flavor  to  their  meat. 

The  jojoba  is  one  of  the  most  excellent  fruits  of  California.  The  plant  which  produces  it 
is  a  shrub  which  grows  on  the  arid  brows  of  mountains  where  they  slope  into  the  valleys,  and 
their  leaves  are  short,  oblong,  smootli,  are  of  a  grayish-green  color,  and  about  the  size  of  rose- 
leaves.  The  fruit  is  a  berry,  oblong,  of  the  size  of  the  kernel  of  the  filbert,  dark-red  outside, 
white  inside,  and  of  an  oily  flavor,  not  disagreeable.  This  fruit  has  become  celebrated  for  its 
medicinal  virtues,  especially  for  the  cure  of  suppression  of  urine,  containing  pituitous  concre- 
tions which  facilitate  cliildbirth  in  females,  and  is  adapted  for  healing  wounds.  The  oil  ex- 
tracted from  it  is  an  excellent  remedy  for  cancer,  and,  having  a  good  flavor,  some  used  it  for 
salads  instead  of  olive-oil.  This  plant  does  not  yield  fruit  every  year,  but  only  when,  in  the 
winter,  there  is  one  shower  at  least. 

The  pimientilla,  thus  called  from  its  shape  and  size,  resembles  the  common  pepper;  it  is 
the  seed  produced  inside  of  a  certain  berry,  which  grows  on  a  small  bush,  whose  stalks  arc 
similar  to  the  shoots  of  the  wild  olive,  although  smaller.  The  Indians  eat  them,  but  there  are 
not  many  of  them. 

When  it  rains  more  than  common,  there  is  an  herb  with  many  stalks  which  grows  in  some 
parts  of  the  peninsula,  called  tedda,  which  runs  up  about  a  foot,  and  yields  cars  containing 
small  seeds  of  the  size  of  anise-seed.  The  Indians  gather  this,  taking  care  that  it  does  not 
become  dry  first,  so  that  the  seed  may  not  fall  and  be  lost;  this  they  toast  and  grind  for  food. 

The  tedegna  is  a  plant  which  grows  in  various  places  on  the  peninsula,  principally  in  the 
southern  part,  when  it  rains  in  summer.  Its  stalk  is  about  three-fourths  of  an  inch  thick, 
and  its  leaves  are  large,  somewhat  similar  to  those  of  the  mallow,  but  furnished,  like  those  of 
the  nettle,  with  little  prickles,  which  sting  when  touched,  causing  great  heat  and  raising  blisters 
on  the  skin,  for  which  reason  the  Spaniards  of  California  call  them  nettles,  although  in  otiier 
respects  it  is  very  different  from  the  real  nettle.  The  fruit  which  it  produces  has  a  good 
flavor,  and  is  similar  to  the  almond,  althoiigli  not  so  wide. 

These  are  the  principal  plants  useful  for  their  fruits  which  California  produced  when  her 
inhabitants  were  all  barbarians  and  savages  ;  but  the  same  missionaries  wlio  civilized  them 
introduced,  jointly  with  the  Christian  religion  and  good  customs,  the  cultivation  of  many  for- 
eign vegetables  better  than  the  native  ones  of  the  country. 

§C.-FOREIGN    PLANTS. 

All  the  plants  and  fruit-trees  taken  to  California  from  various  parts  of  Mexico  have  not 
isken  root  on  the  peninsula.  In  the  few  places  where  there  is  no  lack  of  water,  and  the  land 
is  suitable  for  the  respective  vegetation,  the  following  trees  and  plants  have  taken  root  and 
have  grown,  viz. :  olives,  lemons,  oranges,  peaches,  pomegranates,  figs,  apples,  guavas,  yellow 
sapotas,  grape-vines,  water-melons,  musk-melons,  gourds,  palm-trees  bearing  dates,  wheat, 
Indian  corn,  rice ;  and  various  species  of  garden  or  table  vegetables,  as  peas,  lentils,  beans, 
which  products  have  greatly  alleviated  the  misery  and  want  of  those  people.  Of  all  these 
plants,  none  yield  so  well  as  the  fig  and  grape.  Dried  and  preserved  figs  have  an  exquisite 
flavor,  and  the  wine  produced  from  the  few  vineyards  which  exist  there  is  excellent.  There 
also  were,  and  even  now  are,  found  wild  grape-vines,  but  all  of  a  smaller  size  than  the  culti- 
vated, and  their  bunches  only  have  8  or  10  grapes  of  a  rough  flavor,  that  never  ripen. 

Rice  grows  well  in  the  southern  part,  where  there  is  a  supply  of  water,  which  this  plant 
requires.  Here  and  there  agnacates  are  found,  and  in  Loreto  some  cocoa-palms  have  done 
well.  These  people  are  also  supplied  with  capsicums,  tomatoes,  and  gitomates — three  kinds 
of  fruits  much  liked  and  used  among  the  Americans.     It  has  been  observed  that  the  climate 


EXPLORATION'    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  163 

of  the  peninsula  is  much  airainst  the  laishig  of  apples,  pears,  pineapples,  chirimoyas  and 
other  ilolicate  fruits  of  .Mexieo. 

So  far  as  wheat  goes,  tlu'i-e  are  certainly  hut  few  places  where  it  can  be  raised  ;  but  in 
these,  the  abundance  of  ttie  crop  is  no  less  surprising  than  the  singular  method  of  culti- 
vation. A  piece  of  arable  land  is  first  sought,  which  is  susceptible  of  irrigation,  cither  from 
a  neighboring  spring,  or  by  raiu-water,  kept  in  some  cistern.  Before  ploughing,  it  is  watered, 
and  after  ploughing  in  the  ordinary  way,  not  with  straight  furrow.s,  but  wiiuling  and  undulat- 
ing, in  order  that  the  water  may  rest  longer  and  leave  greater  moisture.  Tlu>  land  generally 
being  very  arid,  it  is  now  watered  again,  and,  after  letting  it  air  a  little,  it  is  planted.  To  put 
in  the  seed,  two  men  arc  employed ;  one  going  ahead,  making  holes  in  the  ground,  rather 
long  and  shallow. 

The  crops  of  Indian  corn  are  not  so  abundant,  in  proportion,  as  wheat,  because  it  needs 
more  water,  which  is  very  scarce  in  California,  although  it  ordinarily  yields  from  200  to  400 
per  cent.,  and  when  it  does  not  reach  100  per  cent.,  it  is  considered  a  poor  crop. 

In  view  of  what  has  been  said,  it  is  not  strange  that,  notwithstanding  the  sparse  popula- 
tion and  the  great  multiplication  of  these  grains,  it  is  necessary  to  depend  for  a  supply  from 
Sinaloa,  and  other  States  of  New  Spain  ;  as  the  arable  lands  of  the  peninsula  are  limited  in 
quantity,  water  is  scarce,  and  many  obstacles  have  to  be  overcome  in  order  to  raise  a  crop. 

§  7.— PLANTS    USEFUL    FOR  THEIR    LEAVES    AND    BRANCHES. 

These  are  few.  Near  the  streams  and  cisterns  sage  abounds ;  also  rushes,  and  estoques, 
whose  sprouts  and  roots  are  used  as  articles  of  food,  and  the  leaves  make  mats.  When 
it  rains,  in  summer,  verdolagas  abound,  the  seeds  of  which  only  are  eaten  by  the  Indians. 
Mexican  wormwood  (estafiate)  grows  plentifully  in  ground  under  cultivation,  but  trefoil  grows 
among  it  and  chokes  it.  The  California  wild  marjoram  does  not  seem  like  the  genuine,  except 
a  little  in  color.  It  is  a  shrub  which  grows  on  dry  plains,  about  four  feet  high ;  its  leaves  are 
small  and  of  a  handsome  green,  and  is  used  for  seasoning  food.  Tobacco  grows  spontaneously 
in  various  parts  of  the  peninsula,  and  the  Indians  use  it  for  smoking.  The  Jesuits  carried 
there  lettuce,  cabbage,  and  other  similar  plants,  which  have  thrived  wherever  cultivated. 

§  8.— PLANTS  USEFUL  FOR  THEIR  TRUNKS  OR  SHOOTS. 

Of  trees  which  furnish  timber  for  building,  etc.,  or  at  least  for  firewood,  there  are  the  pine, 
oak,  palm,  madrofio,  poplar,  guaribo,  and  a  few  others.  Of  those  whose  sprouts  or  shoots 
serve  for  fo^d  or  other  useful  purposes  of  life,  there  are  the  mescal,  batamote,  nombo,  and 
a  few  more.  The  guaribo,  the  largest  tree  of  California,  resembles  the  poplar  so  much,  that 
at  first  sight  it  can't  be  distinguished  from  it,  but  is  very  different  in  quality  of  wood,  it  being 
good  for  beams,  etc.  Unfortunately,  it  is  only  found  in  a  few  rough  places,  almost  inacces- 
sible, as  is  the  case  with  the  pine  in  the  south. 

The  red-palm  of  the  mountains  is  esteemed  there  for  its  strong,  hard,  reddish  wood,  but 
it  is  only  about  six  inches  in  diameter,  so  that  in  order  to  get  out  timber  from  it,  the  whole 
trunk,  bark  and  all,  has  to  be  taken  ;  the  bark  of  this,  as  of  other  palms,  is  of  a  grayish  color. 
Of  these,  besides  the  date-palm  and  cocoa-palm,  there  are  two  other  species,  one  of  white  wood, 
not  so  hard  as  the  red,  and  easier  worked  ;  the  other  has  scarcely  an  inch  and  a  half  of  solid 
wood,  under  the  bark,  inside  of  which  is  a  soft,  light  core.  Before  the  Spaniards  entered  Cali- 
fornia, there  were  many  handsome  palm-groves,  as  the  Indians  made  no  use  of  the  tree,  but, 
after  dealing  with  the  people  of  Sinaloa,  they  learned  to  eat  the  shoots  of  the  palm,  and  the 
Spaniards  commenced  cutting  it  for  building  purposes — some  of  these  groves  were  used  up. 
The  sprouts  are  a  delicious  eatable  for  the  Indians  as  well  as  for  Spaniards,  but  at  the  same 
time  an  extravagant  one,  as  the  trees  dry  up  as  soon  as  cut. 

There  are  two  species  of  acacia  in  the  peninsula,  of  diCferent  dimensions,  both  tree  and 
fruit.  That  with  bitter  fruit  is  large  and  a  native  of  California  ;  that  with  sweet  fruit  is  smaller 
and  foreign — the  latter  is  eaten  by  the  Indians  ;  and  the  other,  as  well  as  the  branches,  by 
horses,  sheep,  and  goats.  Both  kinds  bear  large  pods  ;  the  trunk  and  limbs  are  crooked  ;  their 
wood  is  very  hard  and  heavy,  consequently  adapted  for  knees  of  vessels — the  sprouts,  pound- 
ed up  and  applied  to  the  eye,  are  considered  a  preventive  against  ophthalmia.  This  tree 
bounds  in  the  narrow  plains  between  the  mountains  and  coast  on  the  gulf.  The  Spaniards 
call  it  mesquit. 

The  palo  chino,  so  called  by  the  Spaniards,  I  don't  know  why,  is  a  tree,  native  of  the 
southern  part  of  the  peninsula,  large  and  straight;  its  leaves  are  small  and  of  an  ashy  green, 
the  bark  is  gray,  the  wood  red,  and  easily  worked ;  it  loses  its  color  when  wet,  as  also  by 
age.  In  the  northern  part  there  is  another  tree,  also  called  palo  chino,  which  is  of  white 
wood,  easily  worked,  and  has  no  fruit  which  is  eatable. 

The  gkokio,  called  palo  bianco  by  the  Spaniards  on  account  of  the  color  of  the  bark 
(white),  is  a  tree  of  medium  height,  little  foliage,  and  very  few  branches,  and  which  grows 
near  running  streams.  Its  wood  is  also  white  at  first,  but,  arriving  at  a  certain  age,  the  inside 
part  of  the  trunk  becomes  nearly  black  and  hard.  Of  this  the  neophytes  were  in  the  habit  of 
making  articles  seemingly  of  ebony,  curiously  wrought,  inlaid  with  pearl. 

The  una  de  gato  (cat's-claw)  is  a  leguminous  tree,  whose  leaves  are  small  and  narrow,  of  a 
light-green  color,  and  bears  fruit  in  its  pods.     Its  branches  are  bristled  up  with  curved  thorns 


164  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

resembling  cats'-claws,  and  it  is  thus  known  throughout  Mexico.  The  inner  part  of  the  trunk, 
or  its  pith,  also  turns  black,  with  yellow  streaks,  which  beautify  it,  and  although  the  other 
part  is  hard  and  heavy,  is  easily  worked  ;  but  if  the  tree  stops  growing  until  a  certain  age, 
•the  pith  is  consumed  and  the  tree  becomes  hollow. 

The  mangrove,  although  not  a  large  tree,  extends  its  branches  horizontally  to  that  extent 
that  sometimes  they  touch  the  ground  ;  its  leaves  are  small,  and  of  a  pretty  light-green — its 
wood  is  hard,  and  is  used  for  oars.  The  mangrove  grows  near  the  coast,  where  the  soil  is  not 
sandy. 

The  cork  (corcho)  is  a  small  tree  which  grows  on  level  land,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains, 
where  it  is  commonly  found  without  leaves.  Notwithstanding,  it  produces  a  bunch  of  flowers 
of  a  bright-purple  color,  very  beautiful.  Its  trunk,  when  dry,  becomes  as  light  and  spongy 
as  the  bark  of  the  cork-tree,  whence  its  name.  With  this  the  Indians  form  their  rafts  for  fish- 
ing, and  it  answers  even  better  than  regular  cork  for  stoppers  for  bottles,  etc. 

The  nombo  is  a  shrub  with  long  shoots,  straight  and  flexible,  with  a  whitish  bark,  and 
generally  bare.  Only  when  it  rains  they  are  clothed  with  leaves,  wider  than  they  are  long; 
but  scarcely  a  month  passes,  after  the  rain,  when  they  become  bare  again.  There  is  no  use 
made  of  this  plant  in  California,  but  its  shoots  might  be  rendered  useful  for  making  baskets  as 
well  as  for  ink,  containing  a  liquid  of  a  blood-color,  that  dyes  linen  so  indelibly  that  no  wash- 
ing will  erase  it.     If  this  liquid  were  properly  prepared,  what  might  it  not  serve  for  ? 

There  is  another  shrub  (which  the  author  does  not  recollect  the  name  of)  similar  to  the 
nombo  in  the  flexibility  of  its  shoots  and  the  scantiness  of  its  leaves,  but  more  useful  to. the 
Indians,  because  they  make  certain  utensils  of  them  which  are  in  common  use,  and  of  which  we 
shall  speak  hereafter. 

The  batamote  shrub  grows  on  the  borders  of  some  running  streams.  Its  shoots  are 
straight,  three  or  four  feet  in  length,  the  leaves  long  and  sharp,  but  very  delicate  and  of  a 
very  fine  green.  This  plant  is  efficacious  for  restoring  power  to  crippled  limbs,  by  bathing  in 
a  decoction  of  its  sprouts,  or  by  rubbing  the  joints  with  the  same,  roasted,  and  afterward  put- 
ting on  a  plaster  of  them. 

In  some  parts  there  grows,  near  running  streams,  reed-grass,  of  the  thickness  of  the  little 
finger,  of  which  the  natives  pick  the  smallest  for  their  dresses,  which  we  shall  hereafter  speak 
of.  This  little  reed  is  the  only  plant  in  California  in  which  manna  is  found  ;  at  the  present 
time  there  are  large  growths  of  this  imported  from  abroad. 

The  plant  most  esteemed  by  the  natives  is  the  mescal,  a  plant  of  the  aloe  species,  similar 
to  the  maguey,  in  the  manner  in  which  its  shoots  and  flowers  grow ;  but  smaller  and  more 
thorny,  and  of  an  intense  green — when  allowed  to  grow,  it  produces,  like  the  maguey,  a 
straight  shoot,  of  the  thickness  of  a  man's  arm,  and  from  10  to  15  feet  high;  in  the  tops  it 
blossoms  with  yellow  flowers,  and  afterward  bears  fruit.  The  blossoms  are  full  of  a  sweet 
but  disagreeable  liquid,  and  it  is  so  abundant  that  the  Indians  gather  it  in  large  quantities  as 
an  article  of  food.  The  mescal  which  grows  to  this  point  is  of  no  further  use,  except  to  mul- 
tiply plants  of  its  species,  producing  them  either  from  the  roots  or  from  the  seed  scattered 
around ;  but  the  Indians  do  not  permit  it  to  grow.  As  soon  as  the  inside  leaves  commence 
separating,  they  cut  the  stalk,  when  it  is  scarcely  two  feet  high,  and  carry  it  home.  Here 
they  make  a  hole  in  the  ground,  in  which  they  kindle  a  fire,  throwing  in  a  few  stones,  and 
when  they  are  heated,  the  wood  having  been  consumed,  they  throw  among  them  cuts  of  mes- 
cal, then  cover  them  with  earth  and  leave  them  for  from  2-i  to  30  hours.  This  mode  of  cook- 
ing mescal  and  other  viands  is  called  by  the  natives  llatcma  (in  Mexico  this  style  is  much  in 
use,  and  called  barbacoa).  Our  barbacue  is  probably  derived  from  this  (A.  G.  R.),  and  was  in 
use  by  the  barbarous  V/iichimecas  before  they  were  subjugated  by  the  Spaniards.  Mescal,  cooked 
in  this  way,  acquires  a  sweet  and  agreeable  flavor,  and  was  the  principal  aliment  of  the  Cali- 
fornians  from  October  to  April,  a  period  when  other  wild  fruits  wliich  they  were  accustomed 
to  subsist  on  were  very  scarce.  This  is  not  the  only  utility  derived  from  this  plant.  From 
their  prickly  leaves  they  get  a  kind  of  thread  with  which  they  make  a  net,  that  answers  as 
a  basket  or  pannier  to  carry  whatever  they  wish  on  their  backs.  Generally  the  mescal  does  not 
grow  except  on  the  mountains  and  hills.  There  are  various  species — some  have  a  bitter 
juice,  and  others  cause  pain  in  tlic  stomach.  A  missionary  had  mescal  transplanted  here 
irom  New  Galicia,  which  is  larger  and  better  than  any  other  kind  in  CaUfornia.  In  some  parts 
of  Mexico  a  spirit  is  extracted  from  mescal,  which,  although  at  first  sight  it  looks  like  water,  is 
very  strong ;  some  take  it  to  get  drunk  on,  and  others  use  it  as  a  medicine,  being  considered 
a  diuretic,  and  good  for  the  stomach. 

§9.— PLANTS    USEFUL   FOR    THEIR    ROOTS. 

These  arc  very  few  in  California.  Those  extant  prior  to  the  Spaniards  going  there  were 
the  guacamote,  jicama,  and  the  mczquitillo. 

The  guacamote,  or  sweet  yuca,  is  a  plant  full  of  vine-shoots,  of  a  large,  thick  root,  fibrous, 
yellow  on  the  outside  and  white  inside.     This  root  is  cooked  and  eaten,  and  has  a  good  flavor. 

The  jicama  is  a  leguminous  plant,  also  with  vine-shoots.  Its  branches  are  large  and 
slender,  its  leaves  arranged  three  by  three,  in  form  of  a  cross.  The  flowers,  violet ;  the  seed 
like  lentils,  enclosed  in  black  pods,  and  the  root  in  shape  and  size  of  the  onion,  but  in  other 
respects  resembling  the  turnip.     It  is  white,  juicy,  agreeable  to  the  taste,  refreshing,  and  is 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  165 

eaten  raw.  The  jicania  is  common  in  Mexico — that  of  California,  although  smaller,  in  the 
opinion  of  some  is  better. 

The  niezquitillo,  or  small  acacia,  is  a  small  tree  which  has  this  name,  as  the  form  of  its 
branches  ami  leaves  resembles  those  of  the  acacia*  Its  roots  are  used  in  California  to  dye 
deer-skins  cinnamon  color. 

The  missionaries  have  carried  to  the  peninsula  sweet-potatoes,  onions,  garlic,  radishes,  and 
fennel;  and  all  of  these  plants  have  flovirishcd.  The  sweet-potato  is  an  esculent  esteemed  in 
Kew  Spain,  and  of  which  we  made  mention  in  the  ancient  history  of  llcxico. 

§  lO.-PLANTS   USEFUL   FOR   THEIR   JUICE    OR   GUM. 

TuE  plants  desirable  for  their  rosin  or  gum,  or  for  their  juice  or  oil,  are  the  copal,  brasil, 
pitch-tree,  infernal  fig-tree,  indigo-plant,  and  sugar-cane. 

The  copal  is  the  tree  which  produces  the  copal-gum,  so  well  known  in  Europe.  It  is  found  ■ 
all  over  California,  except  in  stony  and  sandy  localities. 

The  brasil,  which  in  other  countries  is  a  tree  of  large  growth,  is  only  found  in  the  southern 
part,  and  is  small. 

The  pitch-tree  is  also  small,  and  the  trunk  is  covered  with  excrescences  of  pitch, 
which  the  tree  distils,  and  adheres  to  the  bark  in  the  shape  of  little  balls.  The  natives  make 
use  of  this  to  stick  their  arrows,  and  also  mix  it  with  tallow,  to  mend  their  earthen  vessels. 
Mariners  pay  their  vessels'  bottoms  with  it,  but  there  is  not  enough  to  supply  the  demand. 
The  mode  of  gathering  it  is  to  streak  the  bark,  which  operation  has  to  be  performed  before 
it  rains,  because,  if  it  rains  hard,  it  carries  it  off  with  it. 

The  infernal  fig-tree  contains  in  its  fruit  a  good  article  of  oil  for  burning ;  it  is  also  useful  in 
medicine,  being  a  strong  purgative,  and  even  dangerous. 

In  some  places  in  the  southern  part,  the  indigo-plant  is  found,  but  no  use  is  made  of  it; 
perhaps,  because  of  its  being  of  little  consideration.  In  the  same  cjuarter  sugar-cane  is  raised, 
to  the  benefit  of  the  Indians ;  this  was  transplanted  here  by  the  missionaries. 

§11.— NOXIOUS  AND  IRREGULAR  PLANTS. 

Among  the  few  plants  of  California  there  are  some  which  are  noxious,  one  of  which  is  a 
little  tree  called  by  the  Spaniards  of  that  country  palo  de  fccha  (arrow-tree),  because  the 
Indians  of  the  coast  of  Sonora  get  from  it  that  terrible  poison  with  which  they  dip  their 
arrows,  to  render  wounds  made  by  them  mortal.  The  native  Californians,  although  they  know 
of  this  property  of  the  plant,  have  never  abused  the  use  of  it. 

In  the  southern  part  there  is  a  plant  with  vine-shoots,  the  name  of  which  we  do  not  know, 
whose  branches  are  tender  and  fibrous,  and  have  a  strong,  sour  flavor.  The  Indians  cut  them 
in  pieces,  three  or  four  palms  in  length,  and  cook  them  in  the  ashes ;  this  takes  away  the 
sourness,  after  which  they  cat  them.  But  it  seems  that  this  mode  of  cooking  them  is  not 
sufficient  to  take  away  their  caustic  quality,  as  they  always  cause  a  severe  pain  in  the  stomach, 
and  in  the  mouth  and  throat  ulcers,  which  perhaps  cause  death. 

The  hicdra  maUgna  (malignant  ivy)  is  a  plant  which  takes  root  in  the  mountains,  and  ex- 
tends its  running  vines  to  the  branches  of  neighboring  trees,  where  they  entwine.  It  well 
deserves  the  name — malignant — as  the  bare  touch  of  it  will  cause  swellings,  and  cover  the 
body  with  sores  ;  and,  although  this  disease  has  a  simple  remedy,  it  would  be  fatal  if  it  should 
last  long. 

The  gingil  is  a  fruit  produced  by  a  shrub  similar  to  the  cherry-tree  in  color,  although 
smaller.  The  Indians  eat  it,  notwithstanding  its  bad  flavor,  as  it  is  produced  in  March  and 
April,  when  they  have  no  other  aliment  except  mescal.  It  has  been  observed  that  if  the 
women  eat  much  of  it  when  they  are  nursing,  their  children  get  sick  and  sometimes  die. 

In  various  places  on  the  peninsula  there  is  another  shrub  whose  fruit  is  round,  of  the  size 
of  a  pea,  and  when  ripe  is  black.  The  Indians  abstain  from  eating  it,  as  they  know  it  is 
very  noxious;  but  as  their  little  ones  are  ignorant  of  it,  or  fear  no  harm,  they  eat  it  when 
hungry.  The  effect  caused  is  to  cripple  them  after  the  lapse  of  a  few  days,  when  other  dis- 
eases "set  in,  ending  in  death,  for  which  reason  the  missionaries  have  endeavored  to  have  it 
rooted  out.  Notwithstanding,  the  Pcrkurs  eat  the  fruit,  without  its  doing  them  harm ;  they  first 
take  out  the  seed,  which  is  said  to  contain  all  the  bad  properties.  .  Here  are  also  other  plants, 
curious  and  irregular,  besides  the  pitahaya,  etc.,  already  spoken  of. 

The  tasajo  is  a  plant  resembling  the  pitahaya  in  the  inner  arrangement  of  its  branches, 
which  also  are  bare  of  leaves  and  thorny ;  although  they  are  not  so  large  and  thick,  nor  of 
one  piece,  like  those  of  the  pitahaya,  but  each  one  is  composed  of  various  pieces,  of  about  two 
inches  in  length,  and  united  by  certain  stems,  which  separate  during  a  high  wind,  or  any  thing 
rudely  touching  them.  These  pieces,  detached  from  the  bush,  keep  green  for  many  months, 
although  there  may  not  be  any  moisture  in  the  ground ;  and,  if  rain  should  fall  before  they  are 
gathered,  they  take  root  and  form  new  plants. 

The  fruit  of  the  tasajo  is  similar  to  the  tuna  (prickly  pear),  but  never  ripens,  conse- 
quently is  of  no  use,  but  on  the  contrary  is  a  nuisance,  as  it  blocks  the  roads.  Only 
in  some  places,  where  firewood  is  scarce,  its  branches  answer  for  burning,  as  it  kindles 
readily,  but  consumes  quickly. 


IQQ  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

Similar  to  this  in  the  structure  of  the  branches,  and  also  without  leaves,  there  is  another 
plant  called  choUa,  which  only  grows  about  a  hand's-breadth  high.  Its  branches  are  so  inter- 
woven that  they  hide  the  trunk,  and  so  covered  with  thorns  that  its  color  does  not  show.  The 
pieces  of  which  it  is  composed,  like  those  of  the  tasajo,  are  smaller,  and  not  so  long  as  the 
little  finger.  When  by  accident  any  one  steps  on  these  branches  the  soles  of  the  shoes  are  no 
protection  against  the  thorns  piercing  through,  and  they  are  very  difficult  to  extract. 

Much  more  curious  is  another  tree,  called  by  the  Cochimies  niilapu,  found  frequently  be- 
tween 29°  and  31",  and  had  not  been  seen  by  the  missionaries  prior  to  the  year  1'751,  because 
they  had  not  explored  the  interior;  neither  is  it,  in  my  judgment,  known  by  naturalists  up  to 
the  present  time.  It  grows  perpendicularly  to  the  height  of  10  feet,  its  trunk  thick  in  propor- 
tion ;  it  is  not  suitable  for  firewood,  being  soft  and  juicy,  like  the  branches  of  the  pitahaya 
and  the  cardon  ;  its  branches  are  a  kind  of  slender  twig,  about  18  inches  long,  adorned  with 
small  leaves,  with  thorns  on  the  ends  ;  the  branches  do  not  grow  either  upward  or  horizontally, 
as  is  generally  seen  in  other  trees,  but  hang  downward,  like  the  beard  on  the  face,  to  the  foot 
of  the  trunk,  where  they  bear  little  bunches  of  flowers,  but  no  fruit.  This  great  tree  is  almost 
useless,  as  even  when  dry  it  is  not  good  to  burn,  although  it  is  used  for  that  purpose  at  the 
mission  of  San  Francisco  de  Borja,  where  firewood  is  scarce. 

There  is  also  another  small  tree,  covered  with  large  thorns  and  almost  always  without  foliage ; 
for  which  reason  the  Spaniards  called  it  the  Adam-tree ;  when  it  rains,  a  few  small  leaves 
appear,  but  in  the  course  of  a  month  they  disappear,  and  it  remains  bare  all  the  rest  of  the 
year. 

Thus  the  Spaniards  call  another  little  tree,  iron-wood  tree  {pah  hkrro),  on  account  of  its 
hardness,  it  seeming  more  like  iron  than  wood,  and  besides  is  twisted  as  well  in  the  trunk  as 
branches,  which  are  full  of  thorns,  and,  growing  horizontally,  reach  the  ground  ;  the  hardness 
and  tortuosity  of  this  wood  make  it  absolutely  useless.  Such  are  the  plants  worthy  of  men- 
tion, which  the  arid  soil  of  California  produces. 

§  12.— INSECTS. 

Passing  now  to  the  animal  kingdom,  commencing  with  the  smallest  animate  beings,  we  find 
the  ant,  spider,  centipede  (dodo  pies,  hundred  feet),  scorpion,  cricket,  mosquitoes  of  various 
kinds,  the  moth,  locust,  harvest-fly,  glowworm,  wasp,  cockroach,  and  divers  kinds  of  worms. 
There  are  no  bees,  fleas,  bed-bugs,  or  niguas  (an  insect  which  lodges  between  the  skin  and  flesh). 

Among  the  spiders  are  found  those  monsters  which  in  Mexico  are  improperly  called  tardn- 
(ulas,  but  they  never  have  done  any  harm  in  California,  consequently  it  is  probable  that  it  is 
only  on  account  of  their  horrible  looks  that  they  have  been  considered  poisonous. 

Of  mosquitoes  there  is  on  the  beach  at  Loreto  a  species  which  in  some  parts  of  America 
are  named  gnats,  which  are  so  small  as  to  be  scarcely  visible,  but  their  bite  causes  an  intoler- 
able burning  sensation. 

Of  the  moth  there  are  three  species,  that  which  eats  into  linen  clothes,  that  which  eats  into 
woollen,  and  that  which  nibbles  at  books.  The  first  is  an  insect  of  a  whitish  color,  of  the  size 
of  a  louse,  but  the  head  very  large  in  proportion  to  the  body,  and  very  active.  Those 
of  this  class  live  in  colonies  in  little  cells  which  they  make  in  walls,  and  when  they 
eat  clothing  they  make  a  little  pouch,  like  other  kinds  of  moths.  This  kind,  called  comfjeii* 
does  not  eat  woollen,  only  linen  clothing.  The  second  and  third  species  arc  well  known  in 
Europe.  The  moth  has  multiplied  but  little  in  California,  and  it  seems  that  neither  species 
is  a  native  of  the  country,  but  has  been  taken  there  from  Mexico. 

There  are  two  species  of  cockroaches,  different  in  size  and  color,  but  similar  in  figure  and 
propensities.  Both  fly,  although  rarely ;  they  have  double  wings,  arc  rapid,  nasty,  and  de- 
structive in  storerooms,  where  they  eat  and  spoil  all  kinds  of  edibles  which  are  not  hard, 
particularly  if  they  are  sweet,  entering  easily  the  smallest  cracks,  from  their  body  being  very 
thin.  Those  of  the  larger  kind  are  about  an  inch  and  a  half  long  and  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  broad,  and  were  carried  to  California  in  the  ships  which  went  to  Loreto  from  New  Gali- 
cia  where  they  abound.  The  others  are  natives  of  the  peninsula,  and  are  half  the  size  of  the 
former,  but  are  more  active.     Both  species  have  multiplied  greatly. 

The  wasps  of  California  are,  at  the  least,  of  three  species.  The  first,  which  are  the  largest, 
called  by  the  Mexicans  xicotli,  are  described  in  our  History  of  Mexico. 

They  make  a  very  sweet 'honey,  but  their  sting  is  extremely  painful.  Those  of  the  second 
are  what  entomologists  style  V(.tp(e  irhneumonkhe,  which  (although  they  do  not  live  in  societies) 
make  their  cells  in  the  walls  of  buildings.  To  make  them  the  wasp  takes  a  little  mud,  mixes  it, 
and  plasters  it  to  the  wall  by  means  of  a  glutinous  substance  which  it  emits  from  its  mouth,  and 
in  this  way  goes  on  until  it  finishes  the  work ;  when  completed  it  lays  an  egg,  then  fills  up 
the  remaining  space  with  small  spiders,  which  it  catches  for  the  purpose,  then  closes  the  en- 
trance with  mud  ;  adjoining  this  it  goes  on  building  until  four  or  five  are  made,  e.ich  following 
the  same  process  as  in  the  first.  This  mud  b(X'omes  so  hardened,  and  adheres  to  the  wall  so, 
that  a  man  cannot  pull  it  off'  with  his  fingers.  Each  one  of  these  eggs,  enclosed  and  fertilized 
by  the  warmth  of  the  weather,  soon  produces  a  grub,  which  in  a  few  days  is  converted  into  a 
chrysalis,  and  finally  into  a  wasp,  subsisting,  in  the  mean  time,  on  the    spiders  which  the 

*  Vomi.ren  is  the  name  which  the  Indians  of  the  Spanish  island  gave  to  certain  insects  described  by 
Oviedo,  which  not  only  cat  wood,  but  also  the  walls  of  buildings— hence  its  origin. 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER   CALIFORNIA.  IQY 

mother  had  provided.  As  soon  as  the  young  inseets  fuid  their  wings  strong  enough,  they  open 
their  cells  and  go  out  to  tly  about,  and  shortly  to  repeat  the  work  before  performed  by  the 
niotlier.  In  this  manner  they  go  on  until  three  or  four  generations  are  jirodueed  between 
Jlay  aiul  Oetober.  Wasjjs  of  tiiis  spei'iis  lU'itlier  have  a  sting  nor  make  honey.  The  third 
class  are  of  a  reddish  color,  smaller,  with  a  large  sling,  which  causes  inllammation  and  great 
pain  ;  and  although  they  do  not  make  honey  tliey  make  combs,  hanging  from  rocks,  where  shel- 
tered from  rain.  The  Californians  are  very  fond  of  the  little  grub-worms  from  these  combs, 
aiul  sometimes  they  endanger  their  live*  in  gathering  them  from  the  clifl's. 

These  poor  Indians  subsist,  in  like  manner,  on  two  other  species  of  worms,  about  the  size 
of  the  little  linger,  which  are  found  in  certain  kinds  of  plants  after  it  rains.  To  i)rei)are  them 
for  eating  tlicy  take  them  in  one  hand  and  with  the  otlier  squeeze  out  all  the  impurities  from 
the  insitle,  then  they  roast  them;  those  which  they  wish  to  keep  they  string  up. 

On  some  trees  a  white  worm  is  ibtind,  an  inch  and  a  half  long,  armed  with  thorns,  whose 
touch  causes  an  itching  sensation  which  lasts  some  hours. 

But  the  most  notable  insects  of  California  arc  the  locusts,  not  only  for  their  formidable 
numbers,  but  for  the  damage  they  cause.  As  this  plague  is  not  frequent  in  countries  inhabit-, 
ed  by  naturalists,  sufiicient  time  has  not  been  found  by  them  to  write  a  minute  and  detailed 
account  of  these  insects  ;  so  I  will  give  here  what  a  sincere  and  talented  ndssionary  observed 
in  relation  to  them,  after  a  residence  of  iJO  years,  omitting  the  description  of  the  anatomy  of 
thfse  inseets,  which  has  been  made  by  Bomare  in  a  very  interesting  manner. 

In  California  there  are  three  species  of  locusts,  similar  in  form,  but  distinct  in  size,  in 
color,  and  even  in  their  mode  of  living.  The  iirst,  known  ni  almost  all  places,  is  small ;  it 
flics  and  leaps  a  great  distance.  The  second  is  larger,  and  always  of  a  grayish  color.  Both 
species  are  scarce,  and  so  scattered  that  very  little  notice  is  taken  of  them.  Those  of  the 
third  species  are  more  noted  and  feared  ;  their  body  is  of  the  size  of  the  little  finger  ;  they  have 
double  wings  like  the  others,  although  larger,  their  color  varying  according  to  their  condition, 
as  will  hereafter  be  shown. 

These  locusts,  of  which  all  we  are  about  to  say  refers,  are  similar  to  the  silk-worm  in  their 
mode  of  copulation.  They  copulate  in  the  summer,  and  the  female  lays,  the  last  of  July  or 
the  first  of  August,  some  small  eggs,  long  and  slender,  of  a  reddish-yellow  color ;  they  are 
joined  together  by  a  certain  glutinous  liquid  in  such  a  manner  as  to  look  at  first  sight  like 
a  silk  cord.  These  are  placed  in  small  holes  in  the  ground,  which  they  make  with  a  certain 
appendage  that  they  have  in  their  tail.  Each  female  lays  from  70  to  80  eggs,  and  even  more. 
Directly  the  locusts  satisfy  the  desires  of  nature,  they  become  emaciated  and  die,  not  one  re- 
maining alive,  but  they  leave  in  their  eggs  a   very  numerous  posterity. 

The  birth  of  the  new  locusts  has  no  fixed  time,  but  depends  on  the  rains,  which  happen 
earlier  or  later,  but  they  generally  hatch  in  September  or  early  in  October,  when,  with  the 
light  rains,  some  herbs  spring  up  in  the  country.  When  first  hatched  they  have  no  wings, 
their  legs  are  very  long,  they  are  about  the  size  of  mosquitoes,  and  ai'c  of  a  dark-gray  color. 
Their  earliest  movement  is  to  jump  on  the  first  herbs  they  find  ;  when  travelling  the  whole  flock 
hatched  by  the  same  mother  keep  together.  After  having  consumed  the  leaves  of  one  plant, 
they  pass  on  to  another,  and  gradually  they  become  of  a  lighter  color,  and  commence  copulating 
in  different  fanulies.  When  they  are  about  half  grown  they  shed  their  skin  like  snakes,  and 
become  perfectly  green,  and  as  at  this  time  their  legs  have  become  stronger,  they  travel  with 
longer  leaps,  forming  numerous  armies,  and  desolating  the  country  wherever  they  pass 
through.  In  a  few  days  they  shed  their  coat  again,  and  then  display  their  four  wings,  which 
had  been  confined  beneath  it,  and  change  from  a  green  color  to  dark-gray.  At  the  age  of  three 
months  they  arrive  at  maturity,  and  again  change  their  color  from  gray  to  red,  with  black 
spots,  which,  notwithstanding  their  unfortunate  shape,  gives  them  some  beauty.  This  color 
lasts  until  summer,  when  it  turns  yellow  and  lasts  until  death.  Their  whole  life  is  ten  months, 
in  which  time  they  shed  their  coat  twice  and  change  color  five  times. 

Toward  the  beginning  of  January,  when  they  have  attained  their  growth,  and  their  wings 
get  strong,  they  fly  like  birds,  and  commence  the  work  of  desolation  in  all  parts.  Their  flying 
armies  are  so  numerous  that  they  cloud  the  sky,  shutting  out  the  light  of  tlie  sun  and  darken 
the  atmosphere.  They  unite  in  masses  of  10,000  to  l'2,nOO,  always  following  their  leaders, 
flying  in  a  straight  course,  sometimes  swerving  a  little  to  the  right  or  left,  but  never  retrogra- 
ding, and  there  is  no  power  in  the  world  to  compel  them  to.  Wnerever  the  guides  wish  to  halt, 
the  whole  army  stojjs  ;  if  this  hai)pens  to  be  in  a  wood,  they  occupy  the  same  space  as  they  did  in 
the  air,  observing  the  same  order  and  same  distances  ;  l)ut  if  they  alight  on  a  growing  crop,  as 
they  all  want  to  eat,  they  contract  and  occupy  a  smaller  space. 

They  digest  very  quickly,  and  for  this  reason  devour  much  more  than  you  would  believe 
from  their  size.  When  they  attack  a  wood,  field,  or  crop,  they  do  nothing  but  devour  and 
evacuate,  thus  in  a  moment  they  destroy  every  thing  within  tlicir  reach;  even  should  they 
leave  any  thing,  it  is  not  long  before  it  is  entirely  consumed  by  a  new  army,  they  are  so 
abundant,  although  one  is  sufficient  to  desolate  many  places.  These  locusts  neither  eat  nor  fly  at 
night ;  but  they  rest,  piling  up  one  on  top  of  another  in  such  numbers  that,  notwithstanding  their 
diminutive  size,  their  weight  bends  the  branches  of  trees,  and  sometimes  they  break  them  down. 
This  is  a  deplorable  plague  in  fertile  countries,  and  much  more  so  in  that  miserable  pen- 
insula, where  the  fields  and  woods  become  desolated,  the  herbs  consumed,  trees  stripped  of 


168  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

their  foliage,  and  sometimes  their  bark  taken  off;  hence  arises  mortality  among  the  cattle  for 
lack  of  pasturage,  and  hunger  <and  sickness  among  the  people,  because  whole  multitudes  of 
these  voracious  insects  dying  at  one  time  infest  the  air  with  their  corruption. 

There  are  some  plants  which  are  respected  by  the  locusts,  such  as  melons  and  watermelons, 
on  account  of  the  roughness  of  their  leaves.  Pilahayas  are  naturally  defended  by  their  thorns, 
but  their  flowers,  if  they  have  any,  are  attacked  by  these  insects,  as  also  the  fruit  when  it 
ripens  and  falls.  Of  \.\\Q.mescctl  they  only  cat  the  ends  of  the  leaves,  without  touching  the 
stalk,  which  serves  the  Indians  for  food. 

If  California  were  more  populated,  the  inhabitants  might  check  these  destructive  insects 
and  prevent  their  ravages,  either  by  destroying  their  eggs  or  killing  them  before  they  have 
wings,  particularly  if  every  year  some  hundreds  of  men  would  scatter  themselves  among  the 
mountains  in  the  south  at  a  certain  season,  this  being  the  real  home  of  these  pests.  So  far  as 
smoking  them,  shouting  at  them,  or  any  other  course  ordinarly  pursued,  is  concerned,  they  are 
inefl'cctual  in  stopping  their  ravages.  In  the  winter,  locusts  being  in  a  torpid  state  from  the  cold, 
and  not  being  able  to  fly  in  the  morning  until  warmed  up  by  the  sun,  the  Indians  come  and  shake 
the  branches  of  the  trees,  causing  them  to  fall  to  the  ground,  and  then  kill  many  of  them  by 
stamping  on  them.  A  missionary  having  offered  a  bounty  to  any  one  of  the  neophytes  who 
would  bring  him  a  certain  quantity  of  locusts,  they  gathered  YO  to  80  bags  full  daily ;  but  no 
matter  how  many  were  killed,  it  did  no  good,  in  consequence  of  their  infinite  numbers.* 
Notwithstanding,  a  small  crop  may  be  freed  from  a  great  part  of  the  damage  if  many  are  oc- 
cupied in  driving  them  away  all  the  time  when  the  insects  are  passing. 

From  the  year  1697,  in  which  the  Jesuits  commenced  the  work  of  converting  the  Califor- 
nians,  there  were  no  locusts  in  that  country  until  1722,  when  they  appeared,  disappearing 
shortly  afterward,  and  reappearing  in  1746,  and  in  the  three  years  following  without  interrup- 
tion, after  which  they  did  not  return  until  1753-54,  and  finally  in  l765-'66-'67.  This  unfortu- 
nate peninsula  could  never  recover  its  losses  if  the  increase  of  locusts  were  not  checked  by 
various  causes.  Frequently  their  eggs  do  not  hatch,  drying  up  for  lack  of  rain,  and  the  birds 
eat  large  quantities  of  them.  Besides  which,  an  incredible  number  die  in  the  spring  of  the 
year,  caused  by  certain  little  worms  which  breed  in  their  bellies  and  devour  them;  and  for  this 
reason,  in  other  years  than  those  referred  to,  they  have  not  e.'iisted,  or  at  least  have  not  been 
in  sufiicient  numbers  to  cause  any  serious  damage. 

Formerly  the  Californians  were  in  the  habit  of  frequently  eating  locusts,  toasted  and  pul- 
verized, after  having  removed  the  contents  of  their  bellies ;  but  the  good  counsels  of  the 
missionaries  and  the  experience  acquired  in  1722,  when  after  eating  them  to  excess  they  were 
attacked  by  a  violent  sickness,  have  caused  the  most  of  them  to  stop  eating  them.  Notwith- 
standing, some  continue  to  eat  them,  considering  it  a  pity  not  to  do  so,  they  being  abundant 
aud  other  food  scarce. 

§  13.— EEPTILES. 

In  California  there  are  but  few  species  of  reptiles,  viz.,  lizards,  frogs,  toads,  turtles,  and 
snakes.  Among  the  species  of  lizards  we  do  not  know  of  any  which  are  venomous  ;  the  frogs 
are  very  rare,  and  toads  are  plentiful  when  it  rains,  but  disappear  altogether  when  the  land 
becomes  dry  again.  Among  the  turtles,  besides  the  common  land-turtle,  and  those  of  fresh 
water,  there  are  two  other  species  of  large  marine  tiirtles,  one  of  which  is  that  with  a  shell, 
called  tortoise.  The  Californians  catch  them  easily  by  jumping  overboard  and  swimming  after 
them.  When  they  lay  hold  of  them,  they  turn  them  over  so  that  they  cannot  move,  then  push 
them  along  until  they  reach  their  boat  or  raft  again,  when  they  throw  them  aboard ;  but  it 
requires  caution  in  taking  them,  as  they  bite  very  hard. 

Of  snakes  there  are  two  kinds,  those  with  rattles  and  those  without ;  the  last  are  smaller 
than  the  other,  but  their  poison  is  more  active. 

At  the  end  of  this  volume  we  will  give  some  particulars  of  the  observations  and  dangerous 
experiments  made  with  snakes  by  an  intelligent  missionary. 

§    14.  — FISHES. 

Passing  to  aquatic  animals  whose  peculiarities  resemble  those  of  reptiles,  we  find  in  the 
waters  of  California  among  the  cetacroa,  whales,  dolphins,  sharks,  sword-fish,  and  sea  (seal) 
calves,  Among  the  real  vei-itable  fishes  tliere  are  found  the  pampano,  two  species  (resembling 
bream),  pargo,  also  two  species  of  palomotas,  vobalos,  skate,  halibut,  flying-fish,  saw-fish,  gilt- 
poll,  bagres,  sun-fish,  prawn,  curvina,  herrings,  sardines,  manta,  dor^e,  sole,  dog-fish,  plaice, 
pike,  needle-fish,  seal,  horse-mackerel,  cornudas,  morenas,  puercos,  shad,  snoriug-fish,  picudos, 
botelos,  cinpas,  bonitos,  esparallones,  and  many  others.  Of  the  cetacsea,  there  are  lobsters  and 
various  species  of  crabs.  Of  the  testacira  or  "shell-fish  there  are  the  muscle,  miirices,  mother 
of  pearl,  and  many  other  species  of  snails,  oysters,  etc.     Finally,  there  are  also  different  kinds 

*  In  order  to  form  some  idea  of  the  prodiffions  increase  of  locusts,  see  the  account  given  by  Bomare  of 
those  in  the  territory  of  Aries,  Bocaria,  and^Tarascou,  in  the  year  1613.  of  which  a  large  portion  liavins: 
been  devoured  by  starlings,  those  which  survivca  laid  so  manv  e<?2s  that  the  country  people,  stmnilated 
bv  the  "■overnment,  gath(3red  over  three  thousand  quintals,  part  of  which  were  buried  and  part  thrown 
iiito  the  Rudano  ;  having  calculated  the  nuDiber  of  locusts  hatched  from  them  m  the  lollowing  year,  it  was 
found  to  be  rising  550,000,000. 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNL\.  160 

of  zoophytes,  corals,  niilcporos,  and  cuttlo-fislics.  Sonicof  the  list  above  piven  of  aqiititio  livin"; 
things  are  very  well  known  by  Europeans ;  others  have  been  described  in  our  History  of 
Jlexico,  or  in  other  histories  of  Anieriea,  consequently  we  will  only  touch  now  on  how  knowl- 
edge of  tills  branch  of  natural  liistory  may  be  improved  npon. 

Tlie  large  numl)cr  of  whales  which  have  l)een  observed  by  navigators  in  tiie  narrow  space 
between  the  mainland  and  the  island  "del  Angel  Custodio  "  (probably  what  is  now  called  Mar- 
garita Island,  A.  (J.  K.),  gave  origin  to  its  being  called  Wiiale  Strait  (CVo(r</  dc  lasBaUr)uis\  Ijut 
as  no  lish  have  been  taken,  we  do  not  know  to  what  species  they  belong ;  notwithstanding 
what  is  said  of  them,  I  believe  they  are  of  the  species  called  by  Linnieus  physalus. 

The  sword-fish  of  California  seems  to  be  tlic  same  that  Pliny  called  xiphias  or  gladius,*  at 
the  least  no  other  can  be  ibiind  which  answers  to  the  description  of  that  given  by  this 
ancient  naturalist.  A  few  years  ago  one  of  these  fishes  inserted  his  sword  in  the  sides  of  a 
launch,  anchored  in  the  port  of  Loreto,  and  in  trying  to  get  it  out  iu  vain,  although  he  nearly 
capsi/ed  the  vessel,  broke  it  off,  and  retired  crestfallen,  without  his  arm. 

Tiie  palometa,  as  we  have  already  said  in  the  History  of  Mexico,  is  a  most  delicate  fish,  of 
fine  flavor ;  it  is  well  known  for  its  four  or  five  blue  stripes  which  it  has  crossing  its  back, 
from  which  the  natives  give  it  the  name  of  cozamalomichiu,  or  rainbow-fish.  Doctor  Her- 
nandez thinks  it  is  the  glaucus  of  the  ancients. 

The  doree  is  thus  named,  because  in  the  water  he  seems  to  be  all  gold ;  he  is  very  differ- 
ent from  the  doree  of  the  Mediterranean.  That  of  California  is  larger,  more  delicate,  and  the 
meat  has  a  superior  flavor.  It  is  very  common  in  Mexican  waters,  and  well  known  for  the  fury 
with  which  it  pursues  the  flying-fish. 

The  bagre  of  California  and  Mexico,  very  distinct  from  that  which  Linnjeus  gave  the  name 
to,  and  classified  among  the  sheat-fish,  is  without  scales,  with  two  large  hairs  pendent  from  the 
under  lip,  the  tail  split,  and  has  six  fins,  among  which  is  one  large  dorsal  fin,  two  on  the  breast, 
two  under  the  belly,  and  one  near  the  tail.  The  back  is  black,  and  the  belly  white,  with 
straight  lines  which  separate  the  colors.  Its  meat  is  white  and  delicate ;  the  length  of  the 
body  is  from  one  to  three  feet. 

The  puerco  marino  of  Cahfornia  is  like  that  of  the  ilexican  waters,  is  also  different  from 
those  which  Linnieus,  Bomare,  and  others  describe.  The  Californian  is  thin  in  figui-e,  and  almost 
cylindrical  in  form,  the  tail  is  moon-shaped,  with  round  head,  contracted  on  the  back.  It  has 
two  long  fins,  which  reach  from  the  centre  of  the  body  to  the  tail.  Its  meat  is  healthy  and 
agreeable. 

In  California  waters,  as  in  the  seas  and  rivers  of  Mexico,  there  are  two  species  of  sparus, 
called  moharras  in  that  country,  for  the  reason  that  in  its  figure  it  resembles  somewhat  certain 
daggers  of  the  same  name.  The  white  moharra,  which  in  the  ancient  language  of  Mexico  is 
called  papalomichin,  or  butterfly-fish,  is  broad,  about  11  inches  long,  scaly,  thorny,  and  good 
eating.  Its  tail  is  lunated,  has  seven  fins,  two  near  the  gills,  t.wo  on  the  belly,  one  near  the 
tail,  another  small  one  on  the  back,  and  another  which  extends  from  head  to  tail.  The  black 
moliarra,  which,  in  the  same  language  is  called  cacalomichin,  signifying  curved  fish,  is  black 
all  over,  is  twice  as  large  as  the  other,  with  a  curly  tail ;  it  has  six  fins,  two  at  the  gills,  two 
under  the  belly,  a  large  one  on  the  back,  and  a  small  one  near  the  tail.  Its  upper  part  is 
covered  with  scales,  and  is  thorny;  its  meat,  like  the  white  kind,  is  delicious. 

Theroncador  (snorer),  thus  named,  as  when  out  of  water  he  snores  as  if  asleep.  Dr.  Her- 
nandez is  of  the  ojiinion  that  this  is  the  exocostus  of  Pliny ;  at  the  least,  what  he  says  about  it 
applies  more  to  the  roncador  than  to  the  flying-fish,  which  Linnecus  and  Bomare  give  the  name 
exocoetus  to. 

The  manta,  a  formidable  creature,  mentioned  in  the  History  of  Mexico,  may  be  considered 
as  a  species  of  sun-fish,  and  it  seems  to  me  it  was  what  Father  Labat  called  the  prodigious 
sun-fish,  and  originated  in  the  island  of  Guadalupe,  in  the  West  Indies.  Its  breadth  was  12 
feet;  its  length  from  snout  to  root  of  tail,  nine  and  a  half  feet,  and  its  thickness  in  the  middle 
of  the  body,  two  feet ;  its  tail  was  15  feet  long,  and  its  skin  thicker  than  that  of  an  ox ;  it  had 
sharp  bones  like  claws. 

In  the  Gulf  of  California  the  ojon  has  been  caught.  This  singular  flat-fish,  which  we  de- 
scribed in  the  History  of  Mexico,  has  in  the  middle  of  the  highest  part  of  the  back  an 
eye  of  the  size  as  that  of  an  ox.  This  fish  should,  with  more  propriety,  be  called  boeps  (ox- 
eye),  than  that  which  Linnseus  designates  by  this  name  in  the  genus  sparus. 

The  fish  called  mulier,f  deserves  special  mention,  found  on  the  Pacific  coast,  and  thus 
named  for  its  resemblance,  from  the  middle  up,  to  a  woman.  It  has  the  breasts,  neck,  and 
eyes,  very  white,  and  the  rest  of  the  body  covered  with  scales  as  other  fishes,  the  tail  split, 

*  Xlphiam  id  est  Oladium  rostro  miicronato  esue ;  ab  hoe,  naves  perfossas  mergi  inOceann,  elc—Wmir, 
ITiifor.  Xatiir..  lib.  32,  c.  2.  Bomare  frivos  thia  namo  to  the  IciiiL'-fistrof  the  Greenland  ncas.  but  this  does 
not  liave  liis  sword  in  \\\e mandibulum  m/p/>ilor,  like  the  sword-tish,  but  in  tlie  rear  or  posterior  part  of  the 
body  ;  neither  is  it  naked  as  tlie  oilier  is,  but  i?"  carried  in  a  sluatli,  consequently  less  likely  to  wound. 
The  same  author  adds  that  the  kini^-flsli  seems  to  use  his  sword  more  to  steer  with  and  to  "increase  his 
extreme  speed,  than  for  a  weapon  of  oflV-nce  or  defence. 

t  M.  de  la  Harpe  (Comp.  of  the  HiTitory  of  Voyajjes)  makes  mention  of  a  fish  of  this  name,  and  also 
Of  the  name  donyon,  found  in  the  Philippine  waters,  which  is  said  to  be  similar  to  woman  in  its  breasts 
and  sex,  and  its  meat  is  like  pork.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Loire  there  is  another  called  the  same.  (M.  de 
Bomar,  vide  Mulier.) 


lYO  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

The  missionary,  Father  Ames,  at  the  time  of  founding  the  last  mission  of  Santa  Maria,  saw  a 
man  wlio  had  been  killed  by  one  of  this  species,  on  the  beach  of  the  above-named  coast,  but 
as  it  was  in  a  state  of  decay,  he  could  not  ascertain  how  it  happened.  The  length  of  those 
■which  we  have  any  account  of  does  not  exceed  two  hand-breadths,  and  of  a  corresponding 
width. 

On  the  Pacific  coast  from  27°  to  31°  there  is  an  incredible  number  of  univalve  shells, 
which  are  considered  the  most  beautiful  in  the  world — they  are  tinged  by  a  rich,  lapis-lazuli 
color,  with  a  white  (plated)  silvery  ground,  witli  five  small  holes  in  one  side. 

There  are  also  two  particular  species  of  shell-fish,  which  we  can  call  pulpareos,  as  they 
participate  of  the  nature  of  shells;  and  the  polypus,  that  is  to  say,  if  they  are  not  of  that  kind 
Avhich  modern  naturalists  call  ceratofiti.  These  have  the  name  hachas,  being  similar  in 
sliape  to  the  wood-cutter's  axe ;  they  are  bivalve  shells,  having  many  branches,  by  which 
they  adhere  so  firmly  to  the  bottom  that  a  man  cannot  take  them  off  witliout  first  digging 
around  them.  Tliey  are  found  under  the  sand  on  the  gulf  coast,  but  always  on  the  level  with 
the  sea. 

Those  called  burros  are  also  bivalves,  and  are  provided  with  branches,  but  more  slender 
and  much  more  numerous,  with  which  they  stick  so  fast  to  the  bottom  that  it  is  impossible  to 
gather  them  without  the  aid  of  some  iron  instrument.  It  is  said  that  divers  employed  in 
the  pearl  fisheries  incur  risk  of  being  caught  by  these  creatures  when  on  the  bottom  of  the  sea, 
as  they  are  liable  to  get  their  feet  caught  when  the  fish  has  its  shell  open,  which  it  suddenly 
closes,  thus  fastening  him  so  that  he  cannot  rise  to  the  surface  to  breathe.  Divers  have  three 
terrible  kinds  of  foes,  the  burros,  sharks,  and  mantas,  but  all  these  drawbacks  are  overcome 
by  the  aid  of  lucre. 

Although  the  shell-fish  of  California  are  highly  esteemed,  no  one  up  to  the  present  time 
has  devoted  attention  to  gathering  them  for  their  purpura  (murex  ?)  *  as  pearls  have  engrossed 
all  the  interest  of  parties  engaged  in  the  fislieries.  The  abundance  of  these  which  have  given 
so  much  celebrity  to  the  peninsula,  outside  of  which  it  is  so  miserable  and  poor,  have  been 
found  in  the  gulf  near  the  east  coast  and  adjacent  islands.  Those  taken,  from  Cape  St.  Lucas 
to  27"^,  are  generally  white  and  clear,  or,  as  dealers  term  it,  orient.  Those  found  north  of  this 
parallel  are  commonly  discolored,  consequently  not  so  much  in  demand. 

§   15.  — BIRDS. 

We  have  but  little  to  say  of  the  birds  of  California;  although  there  are  many  different 
species,  they  are  most  all  known  in  Europe,  in  consequence  of  the  historians  of  America  hav- 
ing written  extensively  in  relation  to  them,  and  also  as  they  are  common  to  both  continents. 
01' birds  of  rapine  there  are  the  vulture,  hawk,  crow,  eagle,  and  buzzard.  The  last  is  very 
abundant,  but  eagles  are  scarce  and  only  found  in  the  mountains  in  the  south.  There  are  also 
many  zopilotes  (a  species  of  buzzard),  a  bird  which  we  described  in  our  History  of  Mexico, 
and  which,  although  not  properly  a  bird  of  rapine,  approximates  to  that  kind.  Of  noc- 
turnal birds  there  are  several  different  species  of  owls,  cuckoos,  and  others  whose  names  and 
peculiarities  are  not  known  to  us.  Of  the  aquatic,  as  well  those  that  live  in  the  \vater  as  those 
that  frequent  it  for  food,  there  are  many  different  kinds.  The  best  known  are  ducks  of  vari- 
ous kinds,  geese,  pelicans,  herons,  fulicas,  and  tijeras  (scissors).  The  last  are  called  thus  be- 
cause, when  flying,  they  form  with  their  feet  and  wings  a  figure  resembling  a  pair  of  scissors 
when  opened.  What  we  said  in  the  History  of  Mexico — in  relation  to  the  admirable  providence 
which  guides  the  pelican  in  its  efforts  to  sustain  its  species,  which  are  incapacitated  to  sustain 
tliouiselves,  and  the  industry  of  the  natives  in  taking  this  ))ird — has  been  noticed  by  many 
Spaniards  in  tlie  island  of  San  Roque,  a  short  distance  from  the  west  coast  of  California.  Of 
birds  which  are  sought  after  for  the  table,  there  are  turtle-doves,  wild  pigeons,  and  partridges, 
quails  in  abundance,  besides  many  aquatic  species.  Tlie  missionaries  carried  there  from  New 
Spain,  hens  and  chickens,  turkeys,  and  tame  pigeons.  Among  the  birds  of  song  there  are  the 
nightingale,  although  few,  the  mocking-bird,  bunting,  sparrow,  tigrillo,  cardinal-bird,  and 
otliers,  wliich,  with  their  sweet  and  harmonious  song,  somewhat  alleviate  the  tediousness  of 
travel  tli  rough  that  arid,  gloomy  region. 

Finally,  there  are  various  birds  wliich  arc  esteemed  for  their  plumage ;  among  others,  be- 
sides the  cardinal-bird,  there  is  a  colibri  (a  species  of  humming-bird). 

§   10.  —  QUADRUPEDS. 

The  species  of  quadrupeds  of  California  are,  as  far  as  known,  only  26,  viz.,  oxen,  horses, 
asses,  sheep,  goats,  hogs,  cats,  and  dogs,  all  conveyed  tliither  from' New  Spain,  by  the  energy 
and  attention  of  the  missionary  Jesuits  ;  lions,  wild-cats,  stags,  tajes,  antelopes,  coyotes,  foxes, 
hares,  rabbits,  otters,  badgers,  skunks,  S(]uirrels,  tuzas,  Swiss  squirrels,  ardillas  palmistas,  ^nd 
rats  of  two  kinds.  To  these  2G  kinds  sliould  be  added  that  of  a  wild  kind,  similar  in  nature 
and  color  to  the  American  lion,  although  not  so  bulky,  and  is  improperly  named  by  the  Span- 
iards of  California  onza  (ounce  or  lynx). 

*  By  A.  G.  R.  Here,  fora  ftill  and  reliable  account  of  pearl-fisheries,  see  pamphlet,  "  Historical  Out- 
line of"  Lower  Calilornia,"  p.  14— a  translation  made  by  me  for  C.  D.  Poston,  Esq.,  who  at  the  time 
was  interested  in  a  company  in  New  York,  who  proposed  to  enter  the  business  ou  a  large  scale,  with 
modern  improvements.  That  account  is  preferable  to  any  which  has  come  to  my  notice. 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  17X 

The  mountain-cat  is  larger,  stronger,  anil  fiercer,  than  the  iloniestieated,  and  has  a  shorter 
tail.  It  is  very  daring,  and  sometimes  attacks  animals  larger  than  itself,  and  even  men,  when 
they  travel  in  obscure  places,  but  this  species  is  not  numerous. 

Not  so,  however,  with  regard  to  the  chimbic^i,  or  Californian  lion,  because,  not  daring  to 
kill  it,  the  natives,  through  tear  of  a  popular  superstition  Avhieli  existed  before  they  were 
Christianized,  jieruiitted  it  to  continue  muUi])lyiiig,  greatly  to  the  detriment  of  the  missions 
which  were  subsequently  founded,  making  such  ravages  on  cattle,  and  ])erhaps  on  human 
beings,  that  it  was  noticed  particularly  by  the  Jesuits  in  the  later  years  of  their  occupation, 
when  a  number  of  tragic  events  occurred.  They,  after  inducing  their  neophytes  to  overcome 
their  ignorant  and  silly  fears,  as  we  will  hereal'ter  refer  to,  encouraged  the  destroying  of  this 
animal  by  giving  them  a  bounty  of  a  bull  for  eaeli  chimbica  that  they  killed,  which  custom 
prevailed  always  after,  during  the  time  that  they  had  control  of  the  missions.  The  chimbica 
is  of  the  size  of  a  large  mastiff,  has  huge  claws,  and  is  of  the  same  e(jlor  of  the  African  lion, 
but  has  no  mane.  As  soon  as  he  attacks  any  animal  lie  fastens  his  hold  so  strongly  that  he  does 
not  let  go,  altlunigh  mortally  wounded.  As  soon  as  possible  he  cuts  into  its  throat  with  its 
teeth,  drinks  the  blood,  devours  the  neck,  and  covers  the  rest  with  dry  leaves,  to  return  from 
time  to  time  to  cat  when  hungry,  but  he  seldom  preserves  it,  as  hungry  Indians  or  the  buz- 
zards generally  prey  on  it.  When  the  Indians  observe  these  birds  hovering  in  flocks  around 
a  place  they  infer  that  there  is  the  carcass  of  some  dead  animal  near,  and  directly  proceed 
to  the  spot,  and  if  the  meat  is  not  entirely  putrefied,  they  carry  it  home  or  make  a  fire  there 
and  roast  it.  Notwithstanding  the  chimbica  is  so  daring,  he  runs  from  dogs,  and,  when 
closely  pursued,  jumps  up  a  tree  and  looks  with  savage  fierceness  on  his  pursuers,  but  with- 
out daring  to  get  down  until  they  are  gone ;  this  is  the  best  time  to  shoot  them.  This  animal 
is  the  same  as  the  miztli  of  the  Mexicans,  the  pagi  of  the  Chilians,  and  the  puma  of  Peru, 
although  it  seems  different  in  some  respects. 

The  coyote  is  the  quadruped  that  we  described  iu  the  History  of  Mexico,  and  is  a  cross 
between  the  wolf  and  fox,  combining  the  cunning  of  the  latter  with  the  voracity  of  the 
former. 

The  stag  of  California  is  only  distinguished  from  the  common  European  stag  by  its  horns 
not  being  erect,  but  inclining  to  the  back. 

The  antelope  or  chamois  is  larger,  more  active,  and  swifter  than  the  goat.  Animals  of 
this  kind  go  in  herds  or  droves,  leaping  over  the  rocks  with  singular  dexterity  ;  some  are  black 
and  some  white;  their  skin  is  appreciated,  and  their  meat  good  to  cat. 

The  taje  of  California  is  the  ibex  of  Pliny,  and  the  bouquetin  of  Buffon.  What  Pliny 
says  of  the  ibex  (sec  Pliny's  Natural  History,  lib.  viii.,  c.  53),  the  natives  tell  of  the  taje, 
without  having  either  read  or  heard  mention  made  of  that  naturalist,  which  proves  the  de- 
scription of  Pliny,  and  the  particular  identity  of  tlicse  animals  to  be  correct.  In  form,  color, 
and  size,  the  taje  is  the  same  as  the  bouquetin,  and  its  meat  is  eatable. 

The  American  skunk,  called  by  so  many  different  names  in  different  parts  of  the  New 
World,  is  called  by  the  Cochimies  iiju.  At  the  present  time  it  is  well  known  in  Europe,  but 
as  some  missionaries  of  California  improved  the  opportunity  to  frequently  observe  it  in  its 
natural  state,  we  can  give  a  fuller  account  of  it.  California  skunks  are  of  that  kind  of  small 
animal  which  the  Mexicans  call  conepatl.  The  size  of  its  body,  independent  of  the  tail,  docs 
not  exceed  eight  inches  in  length  ;  its  head  is  also  small ;  its  color  on  its  belly  and  feet  is  Avhite ; 
its  back,  sides,  and  tail,  black  and  white  stripes,  in  some  cases  white  and  lion-colored.  Its 
tail  has  a  handsome  fringe  at  the  end,  which  has  a  fine  appearance  when  erect,  running.  It 
subsists  on  beetles,  centipedes,  and  other  insects,  but  prefers  to  any  thing  blood  and  hen's 
eggs,  and  for  this  reason  are  the  scourge  of  hen-houses.  They  make  their  raids  at  night,  en- 
tering by  cracks  or  holes  not  so  wide  as  their  bodies;  the  hens  make  a  great  disturbance 
when  they  get  in  on  them,  but  do  not  move  from  their  places  ;  the  skunk  tlicn  kills  one  or  two 
of  them,  sucks  their  blood,  and  eats  some  of  their  flesh.  They  live  in  little  holes  among  the 
rocks,  and  rarely  show  themselves  except  in  autumn  or  the  beginning  of  winter. 

Dr.  Hernandez  says  in  his  Natural  History  of  Mexico  that  the  dung  and  urine  of  skunks 
have  an  intolerable  smell,  and  this  is  generally  believed,  but  by  observations  made  in  Califor- 
nia it  appears  that  they  have  never  used  either  against  their  persecutors,  no  signs  of  the  same 
ever  having  been  seen.  The  weapon  they  constantly  make  use  of  when  in  danger  is  Jhe  dis- 
charge from  behind  of  that  insupportable  odor  which  so  perceptibly  condenses  the  air  in  the 
vicinity,  that,  as  a  serious  missionary  expresses  it,  it  seems  as  though  it  can  be  felt  by  the 
touch.  Every  thing  in ^the  vicinity  becomes  infected  in  such  a  manner  that,  although  exposed 
to  the  fresh  air,  the  oflcnsive  smell  is  retained  for  a  long  time,  and  even  is  transmitted  a  great 
distance.  Dogs  which  have  followed  skunks  Ijceome  stupefied  with  the  smell,  which  they 
show,  l)y  their  vain  efforts  to  get  free  of  it,  by  scratching  their  noses. 

In  the  History  of  Mexico  we  described  that  curious  quadruped  crdled  by  Buffon  suizo, 
and  by  the  Mexicans  tlalmototli,  or  ground  squirrel,  in  contradistinction  to  the  squirrel  which 
inhabits  trees.     This  kind  burrows  in  the  ground,  and  does  great  damage  to  growing  crops. 

The  same  damage  is  made  by  tuzas,  quadrupeds  of  the  mole  species,  but  larger,  handsomer, 
with  different  eyes  from  the  mole,  as  well  as  a  difference  in  other  particulars,  as  we  stated  in 
our  history  referred  to.  Another  quadruped  is  common  in  California,  which  is  similar  in  form 
to  the  sciuirrel,  although  smaller,  ts  size  being  about  that  of  a  common  rat,  but  twice  as  long ;  its 


172 


SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 


tail  is  bare,  like  that  of  the  squirrel,  and  its  back  striped  black  and  white :  this  is  certainly  the 
palmista  of  BufFon,  and  the  sicurus  palraarum  of  Linnfeus. 

The  rat  of  California,  although  similar  in  form,  color,  size,  and  mode  of  living,  to  the  com- 
mon rat,  is  nevertheless  of  a  very  different  species  from  the  common  or  any  other  known  by 
naturalists.  It  has  under  each  car  a  membrane,  forming  a  kind  of  bag  or  pouch,  which  com- 
municates with  the  mouth,  and  by  this  means  it  gathers  what  food  it  can  to  carry  to  its  store- 
house, and  the  damage  which  they  cause  in  granaries  is  greater  than  would  be  supposed 
from  their  size.  When  their  pouches  are  empty  they  are  scarcely  visible,  but  if  one  is  killed, 
and  air  is  blown  into  the  mouth,  their  poucli  becomes  inflated,  as  though  it  had  a  pigeon's 
egg  in  it,  and  the  boys  derive  a  great  deal  of  fun  from  the  ridiculous  figure  it  makes.* 

Although  the  climate  of  California  is  not  prejudicial  to  animals  taken  there  from  New 
Spain,  the  scarcity  of  food  and  abundance  of  lions  retard  their  increase.  Pasturage  being 
poor,  horses,  cows,  sheep,  and  goats,  naturally  scatter,  seeking  food  in  out-of-the-way  places 
where  they  find  herbs  or  shrubbery  of  any  kind ;  consequently,  being  out  of  sight  of  their 
keepers,  they  fall  an  easy  prey  to  the  lions,  who  kill  their  colts  and  calves,  and  even  at  times 
the  mares  and  cows,  and  commit  great  ravages  on  sheep  and  goats.  For  this  reason  it  has 
been  necessary  every  year  to  bring  the  stock  required  for  the  presidio.  Dogs  only  seem  to 
have  degenerated  in  California,  as  they  do  not  appear  to  have  the  same  liking  for  their  mas- 
ters, soon  leaving  them  for  new  ones,  but  perhaps  their  poverty  is  what  obliges  these  hungry 
animals  to  seek  their  subsistence  in  other  places. 

EXTRACTS  FROM  "HISTORIA  DE  LA  BAJA  CALIFORNIA  "—DECRETO  DE  MARZO. 
Governors  of  Lower  California  during  their  Colonitd  Condition. 


169*7  to  1699  Luis  de  Torres  y  Tortolero. 
1699  "  1*701  Anto.  Garcia  de  Mendoza. 
lYOl  "  1744  Estevan  Rodriguez  Lorenzo. 
1*744  "  1750  Bernardo  Rodriguez  Lorenzo. 
1750  "  1768  Fernando  Xr.  de  Rivera  y  Mon- 

cada. 
1768  "  1771  Caspar  de  Portala. 


1771  to  1776  Felipe  Neve. 

1776  "  1777  F.  Xr.  de  Rivera  y  Moncada. 

1777  "  1790  Joaquin  Canete. 

1790  "  1804  Jose  Joaquin  de  Arillaga. 

1804  "  1814  Felipe  de  Goicoechea. 

1814  "  1815  Fernando  de  la  Toba. 

1815  "  1822  Jose  Dario  Are;uello. 


The  whole  cost  of  Lower  California,  from  the  first  expedition  of  Cortez  (1536)  to  1857,  as 
per  detail  in  the  work  referred  to,  $5,622,895, 

At  the  last  date,  Lassepas,  author  of  the  above  work,  estimates  the  total  value  of  every  thing 
in  Lower  California,  real  and  personal,  at  §1,369,270. 

The  contract  made  between  the  house  of  Jecker,  Torre  y  Ca.  and  the  Mexican  Govern- 
ment was  concluded  August  14,  1856. 

J.,  T.  &  Co.  were  to  survey  and  map  all  public  lands  and  make  a  scientific  report  as  to 
climate,  soil,  agricultural  and  commercial  resources,  etc.,  within  30  months  from  date  of  con- 
tract, and  receive,  in  compensation  for  the  service,  one-third  of  all  the  public  land  which 
might  be  found. 

California  discovered  by  Cortez,  1534.  Salvatierra,  priest  and  missionafry,  landed  at  San 
Bruno,  north  of  Loreto,  1697;  his  government  lasted  70  years,  until  1768,  when  the  Jesuits 
were  expelled. 

Commenced  working  mines  in  the  south,  1746.  Colonization  law,  August  18, 1824.  Reg- 
ulations, November  21,  1828. 


*  The  two  species  of  mole  and  rat  may  be  added  to  the  52  others  of  American  quadrupeds  named  in 
the  catalogue  found  in  our  Uistory  of  Mexico,  vol.  iv.  ^ 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  173 


REPORT  ON  FRUIT-TREES  OF  LOWER  CALIFORNIA. 

San  Francisco,  December  9,  1S67. 
J.  F.  Joiixsox,  Esq., 

Dear  Sir  :  At  your  sugfjcstion  I  address  you  in  relation  to  tliose  lands  on  tlic  peninsula 
of  Lower  California  in  which  you  are  interested  as  a  stockholder  in  the  Lower  California 
Company. 

First,  let  me  say  to  you  that  I  have  lived  nearly  three  years  at  La  Paz,  Lower  California, 
as  "  United  States  Commercial  Agent,"  during  the  administration  of  President  Pierce,  having 
gone  there  with  the  express  purpose  of  purchasing  a  grant  of  the  peninsula  in  connection  with 
other  parties ;  but,  unfortunately  for  our  plans,  Comonfort  was  just  then  expelled,  and  our 
effort  wa5  unsuccessful. 

By  reference  to  the  office  of  the  Secretary  of  State  at  \Yashington,  you  can  see  my  last 
report  to  Mr.  Marcy.  Of  course,  while  on  the  peninsula,  I  made  the  climate,  soil,  and  produc- 
tions my  study,  and  few,  if  any,  are  as  well  advised  witli  regard  to  your  lands  as  myself. 

I  am  a  surveyor  and  civil  engineer,  and  have  had  several  years'  experience  in  tlie  public  land 
surveys  of  Michigan  and  Wisconsin,  previous  to  coming  to  this  coast.  I  have  been  here 
twenty-one  years,  engaged  in  public  and  private  land  surveys  in  the  southern  counties  of 
this  State  and  Lower  California. 

I  Throughout  your  territory  are  valleys,  plains,  table-lands,  and  tracts  on  the  mountains, 
[that  are  first-class  agricultural  lands.  Water  is  found  in  many  places  on  the  surface,  and  al- 
'  most  everywhere  by  digging  a  moderate  depth,  or  by  artesian  boring,  in  much  larger  quantities 
than  superficial  observers  or  persons  not  well  acquainted  with  the  country  and  climate  would 
suppose. 

By  artesian  wells,  or  broad  wells  or  pits,  lifting  the  water  by  windmills,  a  large  breadth  of 
the  country  can  be  cultivated  in  tropical  and  semi-tropical  productions,  as  well  as  the  wheat 
and  corn  of  a  more  nortliern  climate. 

The  climate  of  the  peninsula  is  undoubtedly  one  of  the  healthiest  in  the  world,  and,  for 
persons  of  consumptive  habit,  without  a  parallel.  This  fact  is  getting  to  be  more  and  more 
known  on  this  coast ;  and  were  the  facilities  for  purchasing  lands  such  as  to  afford  encourage- 
ment, numbers  from  the  population  of  this  coast  would  go  there  to  make  their  homes. 

The  first  requisite  with  the  Anglo-Saxon  is  a  good  title,  and  the  second  to  bo  able  to  see 
the  boundaries  on  the  ground  of  the  land  you  propose  to  sell  to  him. 

Tlie peninsula  of  Lower  California  can  be  mcule  the  yardcn-spot  of  the  world. — Among  the 
numerous  products  are  the  olive-tree — 100  trees  to  the  acre,  begins  to  bear  at  three  years, 
giving  one  gallon  of  olives  ;  at  six  years  gives  16  gallons  of  fruit;  four  gallons  of  fruit  make 
one  gallon  of  table-oil.     From  the  residuum  Castile  soap  is  made. 

The  almond-tree — 200  trees  to  the  acre — begins  bearing  at  three  years,  and  at  seven  years 
giving  SO  pounds  of  nuts. 

The  date-tree — 100  trees  to  the  acre — two  varieties.  The  black  gives  the  best  fruit,  yield- 
ing 300  pounds  to  the  tree.     The  yellow  gives  600  pounds  to  the  tree. 

The  tamarind-tree — 200  trees  to  the  acre.  This  tree  does  not  produce  as  prolifically 
here  as  in  the  West  Indian  Islands;  but  the  fruit  has  an  aroma  and  ((uality  unknown  elsewliero 
to  commerce,  giving  it  a  far  superior  value.     The  yield  per  acre  not  known. 

The  lime-tree,  the  lemon-tree,  and  the  orange-tree,  produce  abundantly. 

The  banana  commences  to  bear  at  two  years,  and  gives  first-class  fruit. 

Tiie  pomegranate — 200  trees  to  the  acre — at  10  years  will  give  over  five  hundred  pounds 
of  fruit  to  the  tree,  and  for  its  medicmal  properties  will  soon  be  in  great  demand. 

The  guityaba — 200  trees  to  the  acre — begins  to  bear  at  three  years,  gives  four  hundred 
pounds  of  fruit  to  the  tree. 

All  other  kinds  of  tropical  fruits  grow  to  great  perfection. 

The  sugar-cane,  first  quality — Indian  corn,  three  crops  on  the  same  piece  of  land  in 
one  year.  There  is  a  variety  of  cactus  growing  generally  over  the  country,  which,  judging 
from  some  crude  experiments  made,  will  make  the  beet  quality  of  paper,  and  in  unlimited 
quantities.  Also  a  kind  from  the  root  of  which  a  liquor  is  distilled,  and  having  a  fibre  very 
sunilar  in  character  to  that  of  Manilla  hemp. 

Respectfully  yours, 

THOMAS  SPRAGUE. 


174  SKETCH    OF    THE    SETTLEMENT    AND 

A  BEAUTIFUL  PENESTSULA— THE  GOVERNMENT  AND  PEOPLE  OF  LOWER  CALIFORNIA— 
•      THE  ELECTIONS— REVOLUTIONS— AMENDMENTS    TO    THE    STATE    CONSTITUTION- 
COTTON,  SUGAR,  COFFEE,  WHEAT,  OATS,  BARLEY,  AND  ALL  VEGATABLES  RAISED 

ON  THE   PENINSULA. 

La  Paz,  Lower  Calitornia,  December  22,  186". 
.  Si  qucerh  peninsulam  (inuenam,  ciraimspice.  If  thou  seekest  a  beautiful  peninsula,  behold 
it  here.  One  of  the  old  poets  so  sang  of  Italy.  In  after-days  the  statesmen  of  Michigan  con- 
sidered the  motto  worthy  of  State  consecration.  In  still  later  days  may  not  our  "  special 
correspondent,"  in  the  destiny  of  things,  apply  it  to  the  wonderful  peninsula  of  Lower  Califor- 
nia, and  thus,  when  the  country  comes  into  our  possession — "as  it  must  some  day  or  another" 
(popular  saying) — the  telegram  will  have  the  honor  of  furnishing  the  Baja  (Lower) 
Californians  with  a  singularly  appropriate  motto.  And  surely,  if  cloudless  skies  and  an  at- 
mosphere and  climate  unsurpassed  even  by  that  land  in  which  sits  the  Eternal  City  make  a 
country  beautiful,  then  indeed  is  Lower  California  beautiful. 

The  peninsula  has  a  population  of  fourteen  thousand,  about  one  thousand  of  which  are 
Americans,  Germans,  and  other  foreigners.  Of  the  thirteen  thousand  five  thousand  are  Indians, 
the  remaining  eight  thousand  being  Mexicans  and  crossed  blood.  It  is  divided  into  eight  mu- 
nicipalities, each  of  which  is  represented  in  the  Legislature  by  a  single  representative.  The 
representatives  are  elected  by  delegates  assembled  in  convention  by  the  popular  vote.  Here- 
tofore the  Legislature  or  Assembly  had  only  one  House,  the  members  of  which  elected  the 
Governor.  In  cases  where  the  municipalities  are  not  represented  in  full  in  the  Legislature, 
even  one  being  non-represented,  the  president  of  that  body  becomes  Governor  by  virtue  of  his 
office.  Two  of  tlie  municipalities  having  failed  to  send  representatives,  the  office  of  Governor 
devolves  upon  an  old  and  influential  resident  of  San  Francisco,  Judge  C.  F.  Galan,  president 
of  the  Legislative  Assemblj'. 

The  present  Executive,  Governor  Antonio  Pedrin,  was  appointed  by  President  Juarez  in 
May,  1866.  Since  then  there  has  been  a  revolution,  and  Pedrin  was  dispossessed  and  driven 
out  by  armed  forces  under  Navarete,  who  filled  the  office  some  four  months.  In  his  exile  in 
Upper  California,  Governor  Pedrin  accumulated  a  little  army  of  his  own  and  laid  plans  for  the 
annihilation  of  his  dispossessor.  Returning  from  California  he  moved  upon  the  enemy,  suc- 
ceeded in  ousting  Navarete,  and  again  assumed  the  sceptre  of  power.  Navarete  is  now 
exiled  from  the  State,  and  at  last  accounts  was  a  follower  of  that  adroit  chieftain,  General 
Martinez.  Governor  Pedrin,  Seiior  Navarro,  Serior  Villarino,  and  Senor  Castio  were  the  prin- 
cipal candidates  for  the  office  of  Governor  before  the  present  Legislature. 

At  the  late  election  the  people  voted  for  important  amendments  to  the  constitution,  and  it 
is  in  part  the  trust  of  this  Legislature  to  carry  out  the  will  of  the  people.  The  amendments 
consist  of  having  the  Legislature  represented  by  two  Houses,  a  Senate  and  Assembly ;  the 
Governor  is  to  have  the  veto  power,  a  Lieutenant-Governor  is  to  be  elected,  all  reports  from  the 
Assembly  to  the  Governor,  and  vice  vtrsa,  are  to  be  in  writing  (heretofore  they  were  verbal), 
the  Legislature  is  to  have  the  power  by  a  two-third  vote  of  amending  the  statutes,  besides 
some  lesser  amendments.  When  Governor  Galan  takes  his  seat  it  is  understood  that  he  will 
urge  the  necessity  of  keeping  the  state  papers  and  all  public  documents  in  print  and  in  dupli- 
cate. Up  to  the  present  time  all  official  records  of  Lower  California  have  been  preserved  in 
manuscript. 

The  executive  head  of  the  Government  under  the  old  system  was  represented  by  the  Gov- 
ernor, his  Secretary  and  his  Prefect  of  the  Frontier,  who  resided  at  Santo  Tomas,  near  the 
boundary  line.  The  proposed  amendments  to  the  constitution,  if  carried  out,  will  materially 
change  the  executive  power  and  give  it  greater  influence.  The  judiciary  is  composed  of  a 
Judge  of  the  First  Inst:mce  (District  Judge)  and  justices  of  the  peace.  There  is  a  superior 
tribunal,  consisting  of  a  Chief  Justice  and  two  Associate  Justices,  each,  however,  having  dis- 
tinct duties  assigned  them.  The  rulings  of  this  court  are  not  held  valid,  as  the  Chief  Justice, 
residing  at  Mazatlan,  claims,  under  some  old  law,  the  right  to  exercise  supreme  judiciary 
functions  in  Lower  California. 

Tiie  only  officers  here  representing  the  national  Government  arc  the  Gefe  de  Hacienda  (sort 
of  public  Comptroller)  and  the  collector  of  the  port.  Here  as  elsewhere  the  State  authorities 
fre(|uently  find  the  financial  treasury  so  meagre  that  many  of  the  revenues  intended  for  the 
General  Government  are  borrowed  by  local  officials,  for  worthy  purposes,  as  a  matter  of  con- 
sequence. 

There  is  no  doubt  of  the  fact  that  Lower  California  is  more  than  self-sustaining.  The  idea 
that  nothing  can  be  raised  here  without  irrigation  is  fast  being  driven  to  the  wall.  An 
American  gentleman.  Captain  C.  B.  Smith,  who  owns  a  large  ranch  at  the  Martires,  sixty 
miles  distant,  last  year  produced  the  very  finest  qualities  of  wheat,  barley,  and  oats  without  ir- 
rigation. Some  of  the  single  grains  produced  fifteen  to  thirty  stalks.  At  the  present  time 
('aptain  Smith  has  as  fine  fields  of  w\ieat  growing  as  could  be  found  in  the  famous  regions  of 
Odessa.  There  are  thousands  upon  thousands  of  acres  of  just  such  land  as  produce  these 
crops,  pronounced  worthless  by  the  natives,  who,  deriving  many  of  their  ideas  from  the  Aztecs 
and  old  Spaniards,  still  cling  to  old  prejudices  and  never  ask  for  experiments. 

Cotton  is  indigenous  to  the  soil.     The  writer  saw  a  wild  tree  growing  immediately  ia 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  175 

front  of  the  office  door  of  the  Aniorioan  consul  which  was  Union  with  holls  and  pods — the 
cotton  being  fine  and  silky.  This  tiec  sjiranir  up  naturally  years  ago,  and  has  never  received 
the  least  caVe  or  attention,  yet  is  very  thrifty  and  vigorous.  The  cultivated  cotton  (upland) 
is  of  a  remarkably  tine,  soft,  and  silken  texture.  Its  productiveness  is  enormous,  and  it  will 
grow  almost  anywhere  without  irrigation.  JIazatlau  is  the  only  market,  where  it  brings  at 
present  prices  but  five  cents  per  pound  in  general.  This  is  owing  to  the  productiveness  of 
the  crop  and  the  monopoly  at  Mazatlan.  The  seed  is  planted  in  July  and  matures  in  Deccmx 
ber.     The  picking  season  continues  until  the  planting  season  again  arrives. 

Vines  thrive  here  equal  to  any  part  of  the  world,  and  proilucc  a  quality  of  wine  in  taste 
and  color  but  little  inferior  to  Madeira.  If  proper  pains  were  taken  in  its  manufacture,  the 
very  best  quality  of  wine  might  be  made  from  the  grapes  grown  on  this  jjcninsula.  (Jlivcs, 
dates,  oranges,  lemons,  figs  and  all  other  fruit  of  a  like  nature  grow  in  profusion.  All  kinds 
of  garilen  vegetables  are  abundantly  grown,  and  potatoes  are  particularly  good,  tho  sweet 
qualities  growing  to  a  large  size  and  in  great  quantities. 

There  is  no  disputing  the  existence  of  extensive  mineral  beds  in  this  peninsula.  This  fact 
is  so  well  and  so  extensively  known  to  those  most  particularly  interested  that  we  merely  mention 
it  for  the  benefit  of  those  who  may  be  ignorant  on  the  subject,  and  who  desire  to  know  where 
fortunes  can  be  made. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  the  silver-mines  owned  by  American  companies  in  Lower  Califor- 
nia and  now  being  worked  : 

The  Triunfo  mine,  district  of  San  Antonio,  owned  by  a  Philadelphia  and  San  Franciseo 
company.  This  company  have  a  twenty-four-stamp  mill,  sixteen  of  which  are  v,orking.  Ore 
averages  §50  to  S70  to  the  ton. 

San  Alberto  mine,  district  of  San  Antonio,  owned  by  George  Cole,  Esq.,  has  a  four-stamp 
mill.     The  ore  is  said  to  be  very  rich. 

San  Narcissus  mine,  district'  of  San  Antonio,  owned  by  De  Witt  C.  Morgan.  This  mine 
yields  from  §800  to  $1,000  per  month.     The  smelting  process  is  by  the  old  Mexican  furnace. 

The  Tosora  mine,  district  of  Cacuchilla,  owned  by  a  San  Francisco  company.  The  ore 
taken  out  of  the  mine  is  shipped  direct  to  San  Francisco. 

Neither  of  the  above  mines  is  extensively  worked,  the  Triunfo  being  the  only  one  in  which 
any  thing  like  improvements  and  enterprise  are  being  manifested.  The  others,  and  indeed  all, 
are  waiting  to  "  see  how  things  are  coming  out " — which  invariably  means  waiting  for  the 
peninsula  to  be  annexed  to  the  United  States  Government. 

Among  the  mines  owned  by  Americans  now  lying  idle,  the  owners  waiting  to  "see  how- 
things  are  coming  out,"  are  the  San  Jose,  San  Joaquin,  Gobernador,  Rancheria,  Alcmania, 
Comstock,  Ophir,  Minarica  del  Norte,  Marronana,  Maria,  Franco-Americana.  The  same  com- 
pany owning  the  latter  also  owns  the  Nacimiento,  Oeota,  and  Gusava.  Besides  this  large  list  of 
mines  owned  by  Americans,  it  is  safe  to  say  that  an  equal  number  remains  unnamed.  From 
the  foregoing  statements  and  those  which  follow,  it  is  apparent  that  American  interests  pre- 
dominate on  this  peninsula,  and  that  we  are  very  rapidly  becoming  Americanized,  whether  we 
like  it  or  not. 

This  seems  to  be  a  favorite  land  for  colonization  schemes.  Two  American  companies  are  al- 
ready in  possession  of  the  larger  and  better  jjortions  of  the  peninsula.  Whetiicr  these  companies 
shall  prove  benefits  and  blessings  to  humanity,  or  whether  they  shall  prove  huge  monopolies 
and  establish  legal  systems  of  slavery  and  peonage,  remains  to  be  seen.  First  comes  the  Lower 
California  Colonization  Company.  The  extent  of  territory  now  owned  by  this  company  is 
46,800  square  miles — almost  the"  entire  peninsula.  The  price  to  be  paid  in  gold  was  .'<260,000. 
Of  this  sum  §200,000  is  paid  in.  It  is  the  intention  of  the  company  to  eoloni/.e  this  territory 
with  negroes  and  Chinamen,  and  thus  procure  cheap  labor  for  the  production  and  manufacture 
of  those  important  articles  of  commerce  to  which  we  have  already  alluded.  No  companies  and  no 
combination  of  companies  can  colonize  and  control  the  free  will  of  the  Anglo-Saxon,  the  Celtic, 
and  the  Latin  races.  If  men  of  such  blood  and  lineage  come  to  this  country  they  will  come  of 
their  own  free  will — their  own  complete  masters.  As  a  consequence,  then,  since  the  charter  or 
purchase  right  of  the  company  exacts  that  at  least  two  hundred  families  shall  be  colonized 
within  a  certain  period,  it  is  most  likely  that  such  families  must  belong  to  the  African  or  China 
races.  Whether  this  planting  of  uncongenial  and  foreign  seed  on  American  soil  \w  not  sowing 
material  for  a  whirlwind,  political  and  revolutionary,  at  some  day  in  the  future,  we  leave  to  the 
profound  study  of  that  profound  thinker.  Professor  Draper.  Among  the  cajiitalists  prominent 
in  the  company  are  Benjamin  F.  Butler,  of  JIassachusetts  ;  Ben  IloUaday,  of  New  York  ;  Sam 
Brannan,  of  San  Francisco;  Caleb  Cushing,  Wells,  Fargo  &  Co.,  and  numerous  others.  The 
next  American  enterprise  is  the  Peninsula  Plantation  and  Homestead  Association.  This  com- 
pany own  a  va^t  tract  of  land  lying  along  Mulege  Bay,  north  of  Concepcion  Bay,  in  the  Gulf 
of  California.  The  point  at  which  their  chief  city  is  to  be  located  is  about  seventy  miles  south- 
west of  Guaymas,  across  the  gulf  It  is  about  midway  between  Cape  St.  Lucas  and  the  mouth 
of  the  Colorado.  The  greater  portion  of  this  company's  l.ind  is  said  to  be  fertile  and 
productive,  and  extends  for  one  hundred  miles  up  the  coast  a  perfect  level.  The  president 
of  the  company,  A.  Lamott,  a  well-known  and  influential  citizen  of  San  Francisco,  considers 
that  this  is  the  Paradise  of  Lower  California ;  and  the  energetic  agent  and  superintendent  of 
the  company,  0.  F.  Gehricke,  is  enthusiastic  as  to  the  beauties  and  perfections  of  the  para- 


j^Y6  SKETCH  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AND 

disiacal  region  about  Mulege  Bay.  That  it  is  a  most  favored  spot,  tliere  seems  to  be  no  doubt. 
The  Mulege  mining  disfricts  are  said  to  contain  gold,  silver,  and  alabaster.  Pearl-beds,  the 
most  celebrated  in  the  Gulf  of  California,  are  found  in  the  bay.  There  is  no  end  to  the  qualities 
and  quantities  of  fish  living  in  the  waters  here  and  elsewhere.  Game  is  plentiful,  from  the 
wild  goose  to  the  wild  deer.  One  of  the  chief  things  for  which  this  region  is  already  famous 
is  its  wine,  known  as  Mulege  wine,  resembling  heavy  claret  and  port.  The  Association,  in 
populating  their  purchased  territory,  propose  to  divide  the  land  among  actual  settlers,  who 
become  stockholders  in  the  company  by  purchasing  one  or  a  hundred  shares  of  the  thirty 
thousand  into  which  the  stock  is  divided.  Settlers  are  thus  to  have  an  interest  in  the  affairs 
of  the  Association  according  to  the  capital  invested.  To  men  with  $500  or  $1,000  to  invest, 
at  .$16  per  share,  it  offers  inducements  that  may  or  may  not  pay,  according  to  the  success  of 
the  enterprise.  Under  existing  circumstances  it  is  impossible  that  any  monopolies  or  asso- 
ciations can  import  free  labor  and  pay  its  price.  The  fact  is,  that  cheap  labor  is  so  tempting 
a  bait  for  capital,  that  it  underlies  all  these  great  undertakings. 

The  copper-mine  near  Loreto,  owned  by  the  celebrated  Mrs.  Burdell  Cunningham,  is  now 
being  worked  by  her  son-in-law,  Mr.  John  T.  Boyd. 

The  gold-placer  diggings  in  the  vicinity  of  San  Antonio,  and  also  those  farther  up  the 
peninsula  at  Gertrudes,  have  been  very  little  prospected,  owing  to  a  want  of  water.  Quartz 
has  been  discovered  in  the  vicinity  of  the  latter  place,  but  that  district  is  so  remote  from  the 
settlements  that  nothing  has  been  done  to  develop  the  variety  or  extent  of  the  mineral  wealth. 
Over  700,000  lbs.  of  pearl-shell  are  here  now,  awaiting  shipment  to  European  markets.  Here 
they  are  valued  at  $21,000,  in  Europe  they  are  worth  $48,000.  Something  over  80,000  pounds 
of  cheese  were  made  in  and  exported  from  the  muncipality  of  La  Paz  alone  within  th'e  past 
year.     This  amount  might  be  easily  doubled  and  trebled  if  there  were  a  market. 

Mescal — native  whiskey — sufficient  to  supply  home  demand,  is  manufactured  here,  and  sold 
at  VS  cents  per  gallon. 

Tliough  it  is  the  Sabbath  day,  every  one  is  working,  because  it  is  "steamer  day."' 
Taking  a  view  of  La  Paz  from  the  promenade  deck  of  a  steamboat,  and  making  a  personal 
tour  of  the  city  on  sole  leather,  changes  the  prospect  materially.  The  former  is  very  pleasing, 
as  many  of  the  streets  are  planted  with  trees,  which  in  the  distance  give  it  a  picturesque 
appearance.  That  strange-looking  vegetable,  the  cocoa-nut  tree,  grows  to  a  great  height,  and 
lends  a  charming  feature  to  many  of  the  gardens.  The  principal  street  is  Calk  dc  Comercio 
(Commercial  Street),  which  has  much  more  poetry  than  commerce  about  it.  This  thor- 
oughfare contains  the  principal  stores  and  business  houses,  is  short  and  winding,  and  on  either 
side  are  two  rows  of  beautiful  shade-trees.  Outside  of  this  street  there  is  but  little  order 
or  beauty.  Cleanliness  alone  is  the  attraction.  Like  all  Mexican  cities.  La  Paz,  from  the 
streets  to  the  suburbs,  is  swept  daily  or  semi-weekly.  In  the  portions  of  the  town_  occupied 
by  the  lower  classes  the  most  absolute  negligence  is  apparent  in  almost  every  thing.  The 
houses,  made  of  cane  or  clay  bricks,  put  loosely  together,  have  neither  doors  nor  windows. 
The  poor  live  on  little  or  nothing,  and  the  atmosphere,  always  mild  and  warm,  calls  for  the 
least  possible  quantity  of  clothing.  Among  other  nations,  American  or  European,  the  classes 
living  like  the  people  we  find  here,  would  have  the  characteristics  of  brutes,  would  breed  thieves, 
robbers,  garrotcrs,  and  murderers.  Politeness  and  courtesy  would  be  unknown  to  them, 
and  for  a  traveller  to  mis  with  them  night  after  night,  or  seek  to  learn  their  lives,  would  be 
at  the  risk  of  his  own.  If  he  did  not  die  murdered,  in  all  probability  he  would  be 
robbed.  Yet  among  the  Mexican  people  the  poorer  classes  are  remarkably  courteous  and 
polite;  life  is  perfectly  secure  among  them  at  all  hours  of  the  day  and  night,  and  wherever 
you  go  a  pleasant  look  and  a  courteous  bow  await  you.  Such  is  the  experience  of  the  writer. 
It  is  true  that  others  have  written  very  cruel  and  malicious  accounts  of  these  poor  people; 
that  the  American  reading  public  have  been  educated  to  look  upon  the  poor  in  Mexico  as  des- 
titute of  any  redeeming  qualities ;  but  said  public  may  rest  assured  that  the  dens  of  vice  and 
the  lives  of  the  masses  of  the  poor  in  their  own  country  tar  outnumber  and  are  far  more 
degrading  than  in  Mexico.  Truth  may  not  be  rclishable  at  all  times,  but  an  occasional  dish 
should  be  served  up  lest  the  palate  satiate  itself  with  fulsome  flattery. 

La  Paz  is  the  capital  of  Lower  California,  has  a  population  of  2,500,  and  is  the 
principal  commercial  city.  It  contains  three  schools,  a  church,  and  a  few  fine  residences.  The 
most  of  the  commercial  trade  is  in  the  hands  of  foreigners — American  citizens,  Germans,  and 
French.  Mr.  J.  P.  Hale,  an  American  citizen,  residing  at  San  Antonio,  is  one  of  the  largest  im- 
porters in  the  State.  This  gentleman,  with  Mr.  John  Vivas  and  a  few  other  American  mer- 
chants, pays  more  into  the  national  and  local  treasuries  than  all  the  other  merchants  combined. 
Yet  we  are  credibly  informed  that  the  American  merchants  suifer  greater  delays  in  custom- 
house matters,  and  are  compelled  to  pay  many  burdens,  not  imposed  on  others.  If  these 
facts  be  true,  tliey  sliould  bo  laid  before  the  Department  of  State,  and  Admiral  Thatcher,  com- 
manding the  North  Pacific  fleet,  would  in  all  probability  see  that  American  citizens  had  equal 
protection  before  the  law. 

There  is  only  one  newspaper  published  on  the  peninsula — La  Baja  California  of  La  Paz. 
This  is  a  small  weekly,  printed  and  edited  by  Judge  Galan,  of  whom  we  have  made  mention 
already  in  connection  with  the  governorship.  '  Let  Baja  CaHfomia  (The  Lower  California)  is 
a  plain,  out-spoken  journal,  full  of  new  ideas  and  vitality.  It  especially  advocates  the  interests 


EXPLORATION    OF    LOWER    CALIFORNIA.  177 

of  Amorioan  trade  in  opposition  to  the  European  monopolies  now  shackling  and  enslaving  the 
Mexican  people.  In  a  very  recent  issue  it  tells  its  readers  plainly  that  the  present 
tyranny  of  European  monopolies,  to  the  great  loss  of  American  commerce,  cannot  be  long  con- 
tinued. We  were  highly  pleased  to  make  the  acquaintance  of  the  editor,  who  sjieaks  excellent 
English,  and  is  a  finished  gentleman.  Judge  (!alan  takes  his  seat  as  Governor  in  February. 
There  are  those  who  argue  that  he  should  not  till  the  position  of  editor  and  (Jovenior  at  the 
same  time,  but  the  Judge  is  determined  that  he  shall  iiave  the  honor  of  being  printer  and' 
editor  rather  than  Governor.  When  we  called  upon  him  on  two  occasions,  we  found  him,  after 
true  Western  editorial  life,  engaged  in  correcting  proof  and  working  press — a  press,  by  the 
way,  manufactured  in  the  year  1,  or,  as  the  Judge  remarked,  "  long  before  that  time."  Upon 
the  old  worm-eaten  wood-work  were  the  mottoes  in  Spanish — "  The  Press  is  the  Power  of  In- 
telligence," and  "  The  Press  and  Liberty." 

Your  correspondent  received  a  most  cordial  welcome  from  the  American  Consul  resident 
here.  Colonel  F.  B.  Elmer.  Colonel  E.  served  bis  country  during  the  early  part  of  the  rebel- 
lion, and  is  active  in  the  interests  of  the  Government.  Through  his  influence  a  coaling  depot 
for  the  North  Pacific  fleet  has  been  established  at  the  splendid  harbor  of  Pichilingue,  nine 
miles  down  the  coast,  near  the  entrance  to  the  harbor  of  La  Paz.  Pichilingue  is  the  only  coal- 
ing depot  between  San  Francisco  and  Panama. 

To  the  American  residents  here,  and  to  citizens  Pablo  Hidalgo,  Jesus  Mendoza,  and  Jos^ 
Peliaz,  we  are  indebted  for  many  courtesies.  May  we  not  also  be  permitted  to  return  our 
most  grateful  acknowledgments  to  the  fair  and  accomplished  Mexican  ladies,  whose  society 
was  so  congenial  during  our  stay,  and  whose  memories  shall  live  green  in  our  hearts  ? 

It  is  proper  to  suggest,  on  behalf  of  American  commerce  and  American  citizens  in  Mexico, 
that  the  United-States  Government  cannot  too  soon  inquire  into  the  manner  in  which  its 
commerce  is  almost  effectually  shut  out  of  Mexico  by  the  action  of  the  State  governments  in 
admitting  English  and  other  foreign  ships  of  merchandise  to  enter  their  ports  at  a  reduction 
of  duties  notoriously  below  those  charged  Americans.  Our  trade  with  Mexico  through  this 
system  is  almost  paralyzed,  and  the  friends  of  Mexico  are  treated  as  enemies,  while  their  en- 
emies are  treated  as  friends.  The  nations  now  petted  by  Mexico  insulted  Mexican  liberty 
by  reco.onizing  Maximilian's  usurpation.  Through  American  intervention  the  French  were 
driven  out  of  Mexico.  Through  Mexican  intervention  American  commerce  is  almost  driven 
out  of  Mexico. 


12 


;178  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY. 


WASHINGT^ON    TEEKITOKY 


HISTORICAL    MEMOIR. 


[1592.] — The  first  record  of  any  voyacje  by-Europeans  to  the  coasts  or  seas 
of  the  region  now  denominated  Washington  Territory,  is  that  attributed  to  Juan 
de  Fuca,  in  the  summer  of  1592.  Before  that,  Spanish  navigators  had  actively 
engaged  in  exj)editions  from  Mexico  up  the  Pacific  coast,  but  Cape  Mendocino 
was  the  ultima  thule  of  their  discoveries.  Juan  de  Fuca,  it  is  averred,  sailed  from 
San  Bias,  Mexico,  in  search  of  the  "  Strait  of  Ancain,"  an  imaginary  channel  con- 
necting the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans.  The  belief  in  tbe  existence  of  sucb 
strait  was  based  upon  the  reported  voyage  of  Gaspar  Cortereal,  a  Portuguese 
navigator,  who  claimed  that,  about  the  year  1500,  he  had  sailed  from  the  Atlantic 
Ocean  into  the  South  Sea,  in  latitude  58°  north.  De  Fuca's  claim  is  the  asser- 
tion that  he  entered  a  broad  inlet  or  sea,  near  the  48th  parallel  of  north  latitude, 
in  which  be  sailed  eastward  over  twenty  days,  but,  being  unable  to  resist  the  force 
of  savages,  he  returned  to  Acapulco  that  fall. 

[17  75.] — A  Spanish  expedition  was  fitted  out  from  San.  Bias,  under  the  com- 
mand of  Ileceta,  consisting  of  the  corvette  Santiago  and  schooner  Sonora,  the 
latter  under  the  command  of  Bodega  y  Quadra.  Early  in  July,  they  made  the 
land  in  48°  27'  north.  Thence  they  coasted  southward  inshore,  seeking  the  en- 
trance of  the  strait  of  Fuca  (laid  down  on  Bellin's  chart  as  between  47°  and  48°). 
Disappointed,  they  anchored  (47°  20'),  and  sent  a  boat  ashore  with  seven  men,  all 
of  whom  were  murdered  by  the  natives.  Bodega  called  the  spot  Punta  de  Mar- 
tires,  the  Point  Grenville  of  modern  geography.  The  crew  of  the  Sonora  were 
then  attacked  with  scurvy,  and  other  discouragements  followed.  Hence  the 
name  of  Isla  de  Dolores  by  Bodega.  This  is  the  Destruction  Island  of  modern 
charts,  a  name  ascribed  to  it  by  Captain  Berkely,  of  the  Austrian  East  Indiaman 
Imperial  Eagle,  in  1787,  in  memory  of  the  sad  fate  of  several  of  his  crew,  who 
went  ashore  abreast  of  it,  and  were  murdered  by  the  natives.  The  Santiago  and 
Sonora  having  parted  company.  Quadra  sailed  northward  ;  Ileceta  followed  down 
the  coast,  and  on  the  15th  August  arrived  abreast  of  au  opening  (46°  17'),  from 
which  rushed  so  strong  a  current,  that  he  Avas  unable  to  eftect  an  entrance.  To 
this  opening  he  gave  the  name  of  Ensefiada  de  Asuncion.  The  charts  published 
m  Mexico,  in  honor  of  Ileceta,  designated  this  entrance  Ensciiada  de  Heceta, 
marking  it  as  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  de  San  Iloque. 

[1770.] — On  the  22d  July,  the  illustrious  but  ill-fated  Captain  James  Cook 
made  Poiut  Martinez  of  tlie  Spanish  charts,  to  which  he  gave  its  present  name 
of  Cape  Flattery.  Not  finding  the  strait  of  Fuca  between  the  47th  and  48th 
parallels,  he  denied  its  existence,  and  conthmcd  his  voyage  to  the  northwest, 
without  attempting  any  further  examination. 

[1787.] — Captain  Ijerkely,  an  English  navigator,  sailing  in  the  Austrian  East 
India  Company's  service,  in  the  Imperial  Eagle,  descried  the  entrance,  and  satis- 
fied himself  of  the  existence  of  the  strait,  in  his  long-boat,  but  made  no  further 
attempt  at  entrance.  At  Macao,  the  following  winter,  he  communicated  the  fact 
to  Lieutenant  John  Meares,  R.  N.,  then  about  to  sail  to  Northwest  America,  under 
the  Portuguese  flag. 

[1788!^] — On  the  29th  June,  Meares,  in  the  Felice,  entered  the  strait, 
and    made   a   limited    reconnoissance.      In    his    narrative,   he    says :    "  The 


SKETCH    OF  WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  179 

strongest  curiosity  iinpollod  mo  to  enter  this  strait,  wliicli  we  will  call  by  the 
name  of  its  oriiiinal  discoverer,  John  De  Fuca.''  Mcares  then  sailed  southward 
to  examine  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  de  San  Roque.  On  the  5th  July,  ho  discovered 
and  named  Shoalwater  Bay,  callinjx  the  two  capes,  boundint;  the  entrance,  Cape 
Shoalwater  (now^  Toke  Toint)  and  Low  Point  (now  Leadbetter's  Point).  After 
a  fruitless  etl'ort  in  the  vicinity  of  the  location  of  the  river  San  Roque,  as  indi- 
cated by  the  Spanish  charts,  he  thus  rjivcs  his  conclusion:  "We  can  now  with 
safety  assert  that  no  sucli  river  as  that  of  St.  Roc  exists,  as  laid  down  on 
the  Spanish  charts."  llis  chajxrin  gave  occasion  for  the  name  Cape  Disappoint- 
ment, the  southwest  promontory  of  Washington  Territory,  on  which  now  is 
erected  a  light  aiding  mariners  to  make  safe  entrance  into  the  mouth  of  that  vast 
river,  which  Meares  did  not  find.  Still  further  to  contemn  the  pretensions  of 
Ileccta,  as  he  regarded  them,  he  changed  the  name  of  Ensenada  de  Heceta  to 
Deception  Bay. 

In  the  ftill  of  this  year,  the  ship  Columbia,  Captain  John  Kendrick,  and  the 
sloop  Washington,  Captain  Robert  Gray,  from  Boston,  arrived  on  the  northAvest 
coast.  This  being  the  first  commercial  enterprise  embarked  in  by  the  citizens 
of  the  then  new  Republic,  the  United  States  of  America,  a  brief  notice  must  be 
permitted.  In  1V87,  Joseph  Barrell,  a  prominent  merchant  of  Boston,  projected 
a  voyage  of  commerce  and  discovery  to  the  i^orthwest  coast  of  America,  associ- 
ating with  him  Charles  Bulfinch,  Samuel  Brown,  John  Derby,  Crowell  Hatch, 
and  John  M.  Pintard.  Under  the  auspices  of  this  association,  the  said  two  ves- 
sels sailed  from  Boston,  October,  1787,  arriving  at  Nootka  Sound  in  the  fall  of 
1788,  as  above  stated. 

[1789.] — In  a  summer  voyage  from  Nootka  down  the  coast,  Captain  Gray, 
in  the  Washing-ton,  entered  the  strait  of  Fuca,  and  "  sailed  through  it  50  miles, 
in  an  east-southeast  direction,  and  found  the  passage  five  leagues  -wide,"  In  re- 
turning to  Nootka,  he  met  the  ship  Columbia,  bound  for  China.  Gray  took  com- 
mand of  the  Columbia,  and  Kendrick,  transferred  to  the  Washington,  sailed 
through  the  strait,  and,  steering  northward  through  some  eight  degrees  of  lati- 
tude, passed  between  the  continent  and  the  islands  of  Vancouver  and  Queen 
Charlotte,  and  came  out  into  the  Pacific  Ocean,  north  of  latitude  56°  north. 
The  Columbia  hanng  exchanged  her  furs  for  a  cargo  of  tea  (at  Canton),  sailed, 
via  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  for  Boston,  where  she  arrived  August  10,  1790.  This 
■was  the  first  voyage  around  the  globe  by  a  vessel  carrying  the  national  ensign 
of  the  United  States  of  America. 

[1789-1792,] — SjKinish  Explorations  of  the  Strait  of  Fuca  and  adjacent 
Coasts,  etc. — During  these  four  years  as  many  expeditions  were  fitted  out  by  the 
Spanish  commandant  at  Nootka,  to  explore  the  strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca  and  the 
Gulf  of  Georgia.  That  under  Quimper,  in  1790,  thoroughly  examined  the  south- 
em  shore  of  the  strait,  naming  Neah  Bay,  Puerto  Nunez  Gaona,  Port  Discovery, 
and  Puerto  Quadra.  He  also  discovered  the  entrance  .to  Admiralty  Inlet,  which 
he  called  Canal  de  Camaano.  This  was  the  southern  limit  of  Spanish  exploration. 
In  1792  the  Sutil  and  Mexicana,  commanded  by  Galiano  and  Yaidez,  met  Van- 
couver at  Port  Discover}^,  and,  in  company  with  him,  that  season  concluded  a 
thorough  exploration  of  the  Canal  de  Ilaro,  Rosario  Straits,  and  Gulf  of  Georgia. 
In  the  summer  of  this  year,  Fidalgo  commanded  a  Spanish  expedition,  which 
commenced  a  settlement  and  the  erection  of  fortifications  at  Neah  Bay,  under 
the  name  of  Nunez  Gaona.  Remains  of  masonry  are  still  being  exhumed  in  that 
localitj'.  Old  Indians  state  that  the  building  was  a  lart>'e  one-story  brick  house, 
■with  a  shingle  roof,  surrounded  with  a  stockade.  Shortly  after  the  Spaniards 
retired,  the  Indians  destroyed  it  by  fire,  and  buried  the  parts  they  could  not 
consume.  It  is  very  doubtful  whether  any  building  was  erected.  Materials 
were  landed,  however,  portions  of  which,  such  as  bricks,  etc.,  are  still  being  found. 

[1792.] — Contemporaneous  with  these  Spanish  operations,  other  navigators 
■were  actively  at  work  in  this  vicinity.     In  the  spring  and  summer  of  this  year, 


180  SKETCH    OF    WASHINGTOX    TERRITORY. 

Captain  George  Vancouver,  the  illustrious  British  navigator,  was  engaged  in  the 
exploration  of  the  islands,  bays,  harbors,  inlets,  etc.,  of  the  gTeat  inland  waters 
of  Washington  Territory.  From  this  famous  voyage  arose  the  names  of  Admi- 
ralty Inlet,  Gulf  of  Georgia,  Hood's  Canal,  Puget  Sound,  and  other  Eaglish 
names,  so  many  of  which  are  still  preserved.  Captain  Robert  Gray,  in  the  good 
ship  Columbia,  had  again  reappeared  on  the  coast,  and  was  to  add  lustre  to  the 
American  name  iu  the  field  of  discovery.  Early  in  May  he  entered  the  bay 
called  by  him  Bulfinch's  Harbor,  but  Avhich  the  world  have  denominated  after  its 
discoverer,  Gray's  Harbor.  Shortly  after  (May  11th),  he  successfully  entered 
the  great  river  of  the  West,  to  which  he  gave  the  name,  after  his  noble  ship,  the 
Columbia.  Lieutenant  Broughton,  R.  N.,  second  in  command  of  the  Vancouver 
expedition,  shortly  after  entered  the  river  in  the  Chatham,  and  ascended  in  an 
open  boat  to  the  point  upon  which  is  now  erected  the  city  of  Vancouver. 

[1805.] — The  expedition  of  Lewis  and  Clarke,  fitted  out  by  President  Jeffer- 
son, having  explored  and  followed  the  Columbia  River  from  its  head-waters  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  arrived  at  Cape  Disappointment  on  the  loth  Xovember.  They 
shortly  crossed  the  river  to  Clatsop  Beach,  erected  a  blockhouse,  and  remained 
there  till  March,  1806. 

[1810.] — In  June,  Captain  Nathaniel  Winship,  in  the  ship  Albatross,  from 
Boston,  attempted  the  first  American  settlement  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
at  Oak  Point,  a  low  alluvial  bottom,  on  the  Oregon  side  of  the  Columbia  River, 
nearly  opposite  Oak-Point  Mills  in  this  Territory,  and  wliich  now  really  wears 
that  distinctive  name  as  a  settlement.  The  Albatross  sailed  July  6,  ISOd,  via 
Cape  Horn  and  the  Sandwich  Islands,  arriving  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia 
May  2oth.  After  cruising  some  ten  days  in  the  river,  Oak  Point  was  selected  as 
the  site  of  the  establishment.  Land  was  cleared,  seeds  planted,  and  the  erection 
of  a  trading  and  dwelling  house  commenced.  The  annual  freshet  of  the  Colum- 
bia soon  after  inundated  the  garden,  flooded  the  storehouse,  and  caused  the 
abandonment  of  the  enterprise.  It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  Oregon  origi- 
nally embraced  W^ashington  Territory,  and  that  the  Columbia  River  is  the  com- 
mon boundary,  its  development  and  history  being  common  to  each. 

[1811.] — Although  Astoria  is  not  in  the  Territory,  yet  its  location  and  con- 
nected posts,  establishments,  and  operations,  are  inseparably  blended  with  the 
subsequent  history  and  development  of  this  whole  region.  Indeed,  early  after 
its  establishment,  Astoria  became  but  an  incident  of  those  events,  the  theatre  of 
which  was  almost  entirely  north  of  the  Columbia  River,  hence  within  the  limits 
of  this  Territory.  In  1810  John  Jacob  Astor  formed  the  Pacific  Pur  Company. 
His  plan  embraced  a  principal  settlement  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  as  a 
headquarters  and  depot  for  trading-establishments,  and  parties  to  be  distributed 
through  the  interior,  with  a  line  of  posts  on  the  Columbia  and  Missouri  Rivers. 
The  ship  Tonquin,  Captain  Thorne,  II.  S.  Navy,  on  furlough,  conveyed  a  i)arty 
via  Cape  Horn  ;  and  Wilson  P.  Hunt  simultaneously  led  an  expedition  across  the 
Rocky  Mountains  to  tlie  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  In  March,  1811,  the  Tonquin 
arrived,  and  on  the  12th  April,  the  erection  of  the  fort  and  warehouses  was  com- 
menced at  Astoria.  The  (British)  Northwest  Company  of  Canada  (several  of 
whose  members  Mr.  Astor  had  taken  into  his  enterprise)  determined  to  baffle 
Mr.  Astor's  scheme.  To  avoid  the  impressment  of  Canadian  employes  as  Brit- 
ish subjects,  Mr.  Astor  secured  the  convoy  by  the  U.  S.  frigate  Constitution,  well 
off  the  United  States  coast.  Simultaneous  with  his  sailing,  the  Northwest  Com- 
pany sent  a  party  overland,  under  connnand  of  David  Thompson,  who  \vas  ex- 
pected to  reach  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River  before  the  arrival  of  the  Ton- 
quin. Snow  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  checked  the  progress  of  Mr.  Thompson. 
He  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Spokane  River  and  established  a  post,  about  the 
time  the  settlement  at  Astoria  was  commenced.  Along  his  route  he  distributed 
British  flags  to  the  Indians,  and  took  possession  of  the  country  for  the  North- 
west Company.     In  June   the  Tonquin  sailed  up  the  coast,  and  at  Clyoquot 


SKETCH    OF    WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  181 

Sound,  on  the  Avest  coast  of  Vancouver  Island,  was  taken  by  the  Indians,  and  all 
luM'orew  nuirdorcd,  except  the  Indian  interpreter.  A  larcje  number  of  natives,  while 
robbiiiLi"  the  ship  next  day,  were  killed  by  the  explosion  of  the  niai>;azinc,  a  just 
retribution  for  their  perfidy.  Durinc;  the  same  summer  JNfr.  Stuart,  of  Astor's 
company,  established  Fort  Okauaijaue.  On  the  12th  December,  1813,  the  Brit- 
ish slooD-of-war  Raccoon,  26  ft'uus.  Captain  Black,  appeari'd  before  Astoria.  The 
American  flaii"  was  hauled  down,  the  IJritish  standard  raised,  and  the  name  of 
Astoria  was  chang-cd  to  Fort  Georo-e. 

A  short  time  previous,  the  ao-ent  employed  by  Mr.  Astor  had  .wZfZ  him,  as 
well  as  the  business  of  the  Pacific  Fur  Company,  to  the  rival  Northwest  Company 
for  the  merely  nominal  sum  of  $40,000.  By  this  pretended  purchase  of  the  in- 
terests of  the  Pacific  Fur  Company,  the  Northwest  Company  enjoyed  a  sole  oc- 
cupancy of  the  territory  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  to  the  line  of  the  Rus- 
sian settlements. 

In  1817  the  Fnited-States  Government  sent  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia 
the  sl(^op-of-war  Ontario,  Captain  James  Biddle,  carrying  the  Hon.  J.  B.  Pre- 
vost,  United-States  commissioner,  to  receive  the  return,  to  the  United  States, 
of  Astoria  as  an  American  settlement  captured  during  the  war,  the  treaty  of 
Ghent  providing  for  such  surrenders  by  both  nations.  She  arrived  at  Astoria, 
August  10,  1818,  when  Captain  Biddle  again  raised  the  American  flag  at  As- 
toria, it  reassuming  the  name  of  its  distinguished  founder.  The  formal  surrender 
of  the  property  by  the  British  commissioner  and  the  agent  of  the  Northwest 
Company  was  made  October  6,  1818. 

October  20,  1818,  a  convention  was  entered  into  for  ten  years,  between 
Great  Britain  and  the  United  States,  permitting  a  joint  occupancy,  by  citizens 
and  subjects  of  both  nations,  of  the  territory  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  In 
March,  1821,  the  Hudson's  Bay  and  Northwest  Companies,  who  for  many  years 
had  carried  on  such  fierce  opposition  to  each  other  that  hostilities  ensued,  en- 
tered into  a  partnership.  With  their  combined  influence,  favorable  legislation 
was  secured  from  the  British  Parliament,  extending  the  jurisdiction  of  the  courts 
of  Canada  to  the  Pacific  Ocean  (notwithstanding  the  existence  of  the  foregoing 
treaty  by  which  non-occupancy  by  the  English  Government  was  agreed  to).  De- 
cember 26,  1821,  the  two  companies,  as  a  partnership,  obtained  from  the  Brit- 
ish Government  an  exclusive  license  of  trade  in  said  territory  for  21  years.  In 
1824  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  swallowed  up  the  Northwest  Company,  and 
became  sole  owners  of  said  license  of  trade,  and  successors  to  all  the  property 
and  establishments  of  their  former  rivals  the  Northwest  Company. 

In  1824  and  1825,  respectively,  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain,  by 
treaties  with  Russia,  recognized  54°  40'  north  latitude  as  the  southern  line  of 
Russian  America.  In  1827  the  treaty  between  the  United  States  and  Great 
1  Britain  continued  indefinitely  the  provision  of  joint  occupancy  in  the  treaty 
of  1818,  until  cither  party  should  give  twelve  months'  notice  of  desire  to  abro- 
gate. 

From  1824  down  to  1836  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  were  almost  exclu- 
sive possessors  of  the  territory  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  with  here  and 
there  an  occasional  trading-party,  hunter,  or  trapper,  attemi)tiiig  to  enjoy  their 
doubtful  and  dangerous  avocation.  The  latter  were  generally  employed  by  the 
enterprising  Fur  Companies  of  St.  Louis,  and  but  seldom  extended  their  opera- 
tions as  far  west  and  north  as  what  is  now  AVashington  Territory.  The  area  of 
the  present  Territory  of  Washington  may  be  regarded  during  this  period,  and 
even  down  to  1845,  as  under  the  control  and  jurisdiction  of  tlie  Hudson's  Bay 
Company.  Within  its  boundaries  they  had  established  forts  at  Vancouver, 
Walla  Walla,  Okanagane,  Colville,  Nisqually,  Cowlitz  River,  and,  just  after  the 
abrupt  termination  of  the  negotiations  between  Messrs.  Buchanan  and  Sir  Richard 
Pakenham  in  1845,  by  instructions  from  London,  a  claim  at  Cape  Disappointment 
was  secured.     This  admirable  distribution  of  posts  was  not  only  calculated  to 


132  SKETCH    OF    WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

secure  the  trade  of  the  country,  but  to  hold  the  native  tribes  In  subjection ;  in 
short,  to  hold  possession  of  the  country. 

In  1834,  the  missionary  settlements  from  the  United  States  commenced, 
and  shortly  afterward  the  American  population  slowly  found  their  way  into 
Oregon,  confining  for  several  years  their  settlements  south  of  the  Columbia. 
True,  two  of  the  three  missionary  stations,  established  under  the  auspices  of  the 
American  Board  of  Foreign  Missions,  viz.,  Whitman's  at  Waiilatpu  and  that 
of  Messrs.  Eels  and  "Walker,  near  the  Spokane  River,  had  been  located  in  what 
is  now  comprised  in  this  Territory.  In  1841  the  United-States  Exploring  Ex- 
pedition (Captain  Charles  Wilkes)  surveyed  the  coasts,  bays,  harbors,  and  rivers 
of  tills  Territory.  In  1843  Lieutenant  Fremont,  U.S.A.,  on  his  second  expe- 
dition, reached  Vancouver,  thereby  ronnecting  his  first  recoimoissance,  which  had 
only  extended  to  the  South  Pass,  with  the  eastern  terminus  of  Captain  Wilkes's 
exploration. 

In  October,  1845,  Colonel  M.  T.  Simmons,  with  his  own  and  several  other 
families,  who  had  crossed  the  plains  in  1844,  settled  near  the  head  of  Puget 
Sound,  at  -Tumwater,  the  mouth  of  the  Deschutes  Ptiver.  This  marks  the  com- 
mencement of  American  settlement  in  what  now  constitutes  Washington  Terri- 
tory. The  Oregon  provisional  government,  formed  July  5,  1843,  had  created 
the.  District  of  Vancouver,  embracing  all  the  present  Territory  of  Washington. 
Shortly  subsequent  Lewis  County  was  cut  ofi',  and  the  name  of  Vancouver 
changed  to  Clark. 

On  the  15th  June,  1846,  the  treaty  of  limits  between  the  United  States  and 
Great  Britain  made  the  49th  parallel,  and  the  middle  of  the  channel  separating 
the  continent  from  Vancouver  Island,  the  northern  boundary  of  the  American 
Oregon.  In  November,  1847,  within  the  limits  of  the  present  Washington, 
while  yet  a  part  of  Oregon,  an  atrocious  massacre  was  perpetrated  at  Whit- 
man's missionary  station  (Waiilatpu)  not  far  distant  from  the  site  of  the  present 
city  of  Walla  Walla.  Dr.  Whitman  and  wife  and  nine  others  (Americans) 
were  murdered  in  cold  blood  by  a  band  of  Cayuse  Indians,  This  led  to  the 
Cayuse  war,  in  which  the  provisional  government  of  Oregon  inflicted  upon  those 
perfidious  wretches  a  chastisement  most  richly  deserved,  but  hardly  commen- 
surate with  their  guilt. 

August  14,  1848,  Congress  organized  the  Territory  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  naming  it  Oregon.  The  region  north  of  the  Columbia  River  having 
attained  sufficient  population  (March  2,  1853),  was  set  apart  as  a  separate  Ter- 
ritory, and  denominated  Washington  Territory.  The  act  of  Congress  establish- 
ing this  Territory  ascribed  the  following  boundaries :  north,  by  the  treaty  line 
of  1846,  separating  it  from  the  British  possessions;  cast,  by  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains ;  south,  by  the  46th  parallel  to  its  intersection  with  the  Columbia  River, 
and  thence  by  the  channel  of  that  river  to  its  mouth ;  and  west,  by  the  Pacific 
Ocean. 

[1853.] — The  survey  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  route  from  the  liead- 
waters  of  the  Mississippi  to  Puget  Sound  by  the  late  Governor  Isaac  J.  Stevens, 
the  then  and  first  governor  of  Washington  Territory,  occupied  the  whole  sum- 
mer and  fall  of  this  year.  September  29th,  proclamation  of  Governor  Stevens 
of  his  entrance  into  the  Territory  and  assumption  of  executive  duties,  dated  at  St. 
Mary's  village.  November  2Sth,  executive  proclamation,  fixing  time  of  elec- 
tion, defining  judicial  districts,  and  apportionment  of  districts  for  election  of 
members  of  Legislative  Assembly.  A  census  of  the  white  population  was  taken 
this  year  by  J.  Patton  Anderson,  first  United  States  marshal,  Avhich  exhibited 
3,965  inhabitants,  and  1,682  voters. 

[1855.] — Gold  having  been  discovered  on  several  of  the  tributaries  of  the 
Columbia,  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Colville,  miners  from  Oregon  and  Puget  Sound 
rushed  to  the  "  new  diggings."  The  latter,  mostly  unarmed  (for  treaties  had 
been  concluded  the  spring  before  which  seemed  to  be  a  guaranty  of  the  peace- 


I 


SKETCH    OF    WASHINGTON    TERRITORY.  183 

able  disposition  of  the  Indians),  crossed  the  Cascade  Mountains,  and  passed 
thi-ouj;"h  tlie  Yakenii  country.  Several  were  surprised  and  uuirdored.  United- 
States  Indian  ajivut  Bolon  was  killed,  and  he  and  his  horse  consumed  by  fire. 
Simultaneously,  outra^^'os  of  similar  character  were  committed  hy  Indians  in 
various  regions,  from  the  boundary  of  California  to  the  north  boundary  of  this 
Territory,  indicating  concert  of  action  among  the  Indian  tribes.  Tlie  Indian 
war  of  1855-56  ensued  as  a  necessary  consequence  in  Oregon  and  Washington, 
which  was  long  maintained,  almost  exclusively  by  the  people  of  those  Terri- 
tories. At  its  conclusion.  General  Wool,  of  the  United-States  Army,  then  in 
couHnand  of  this  military  division,  was  as  hostile  to  the  authorities  and  popu- 
lation of  this  Territory  as  the  Indians  had  been  when  it  commenced,  and  much 
more  than  he  had  been  against  the  Indians  during  any  of  his  campaigns. 

[1859.] — February  14th,  Congress  admitted  Oregon  into  the  Union  as  a 
State,  annexing  to  Washington  Territory  all  that  portion  of  Oregon  Territory 
lying  east  of  the  present  east  boundary  of  Oregon,  extending  the  south  and 
southeastern  limits  of  this  Territory  to  the  42d  parallel,  continued  east- 
ward to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  embracing  within  it  the  South  Pass,  that 
great  gateway  of  American  immigration  to  the  Pacific  States  and  Territories. 
This  summer  is  also  notable  for  the  San  Juan  Island  emeutc,  which  terminated 
peaceably  by  General  Winfield  Scott  entering  into  a  temporary  agreement,  con- 
senting to  the  joint  occupancy  of  that  island  by  detachments  of  troops  of  the 
United  States  and  Great  Britain.  This  humiliating  condition  of  things  yet 
continues,  and  the  laws  of  Washington  Territory  are  suspended  in  that  portion 
of  its  limits. 

[1863.] — March  30th,  the  act  of  Congress,  establishing  the  Territory  of 
Idaho,  curtailed  its  huge  proportions,  and  reduced  the  Territory  to  its  present 
boundaries.  A  reference  to  the  map  will  show  that  this  Territory  embraced  at 
one  time  great  portions  of  the  Territories  of  Idaho  and  Montana  (as  at  present 
constituted),  including  those  mining  regions,  the  richness  and  apparently  inex- 
haustible yield  of  which  have  attracted  so  much  interest. 

The  present  limits  of  Washington  Territory  are  suggestive  of  and  associated 
with  matters  of  historic  moment,  intensely  interesting  in  a  political  and 
national  point  of  view.  It  embraces  the  identical  territory  the  struggle  for 
which  prolonged  that  memorable  controversy  between  Great  Britain  and  the 
United  States  known  as  iha  Oregon  question — a  contest  continued  at  intervals 
from  1807  until  June  15,  1846.  While  it  is  true  that  both  nation's  asserted 
claim  to  the  tohole  of  the  territory  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  up  to  the  fjir- 
famed  54°  40',  yet  the  gist  of  the  controversy,  the  real  bone  of  contention,  the 
turning-point  upon  which  the  matter  finally  hinged,  ivas  the  territorrj  south  of 
the  idfh  parallel,  tvest  and  north  of  the  Columbia  River.  The  United  States 
had  ofiered  on  several  occasions,  as  a  compromise,  the  49th  parallel  westward 
to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Great  Britain  had  likewise  ofiered  the  49th  parallel 
wxv'itward  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  to  the  Columbia,  tlicnce  down  that  river  to 
the  Pacific.  Great  Britain  coveted  the  region  north  and  west  of  that  river,  with 
its  free  navigation,  and  exclusive  ownership  of  the  Pugct  Sound  Basin.  The 
negotiations  develop  this  tact,  and  its  open  avowal  by  Sir  R.  Pakenham — in 
September,  1844,  in  reply  to  the  able  establishment  of  the  American  claim  to  the 
whole  territory  by  Mr.  Calhoun,  that  "  he,"  Sir  R.  Pakenham,  "  did  not  feel 
authorized  to  enter  into  discussion  respecting  the  territory  north  of  the  49th 
parallel,  Avhich  was  understood  by  the  British  Government  to  form  the  basis  of 
negotiation  on  tiie  side  of  the  United  States,  as  the  line  of  the  Columbia  fortned 
that  on  the  side  of  Great  Urituin" — at  least  attests  the  fiict  that  the  value  of  this 
interesting  region  was  appreciated  by  the  British  negotiator. 

But  tl)e  treaty  of  1846  has  not  settled  the  controversy,  the  boundary 
between  the  two  nations,  and  now  we  do  not  know  the  northwest  boundary  of 
the  Territorv  of  Washington.     The  title  to  San  Juan   Island  and  the  Archi- 


184  SKETCH    OF    WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

pelago  de  Haro  is  still  iu  dispute.  A  second  treaty  (July  1,  1863)  lias  been 
found  necessary  to  ascertain  the  rights  possessed,  and  the  value  of  the  benefit 
conferred,  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  in  enjoying  its  exclusive  trade  and 
occupancy  from  1824  down  to  1846.  The  immense  claim  now  being  urged 
under  the  latter  treaty,  $5,000,000  (a  trifling  proportion  of  which  is  for  estab- 
lishments outside  of  Washington  Territory),  together  with  the  dispute  as  to  the 
sovereignty  of  San  Juan  and  other  islands,  which  so  nearly  provoked  collision 
in  1859,  between  the  British  fleet  and  the  camp  of  the  United-States  Army  on 
San  Juan  Island,  justify  the  statement  that  at  no  time,  since  first  pressed  by 
the  foot  of  Avhite  men,  has  its  Territory  been  exempt  from  a  conflict  between 
rival  nations  as  to  rights  of  sovereignty  or  exclusive  possession.  That  Janus- 
faced  treaty  of  1846  is  among  its  most  notable  features  of  history.  It  aimed  to 
settle  the  boundary,  but  left  the  seeds  of  future  controversy  by  its  imcertainty. 
Twenty-one  years  have  elapsed,  and  the  boundary  of  the  United  States  is  still  unde- 
termined. A  portion  of  Washington  Territory  is  subjected  to  that  anomaly  of 
two  nationalities  holding  armed  occupation  as  evidence  of  adverse  claims.  That 
treaty  also  denied  the  claim  of  the  British  Gov^ernment,  as  such,  south  of  the 
49th  parallel,  yet  resolved  that  great  nation  into  individuals,  and  conferred 
upon  such  individuals,  or  combinations  of  them,  the  privilege  of  absorbing  as 
much  territory  as  they  saw  fit  to  claim  as  possessory  rights,  which  the  United- 
States  Government  bound  itself  to  respect. 


SKETCH    OF    NEVADA.  185 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  NEVADA,  IXCLT7DING  BOUNDARIES, 
POPULATION,  ABORIGINAL  INHABITANTS,  EARLY  SETTLE- 
MENTS, &c. 

GEOGRAPHICAL    POSITION    AND    AREA    OF    THE    STATS. 

The  State  of  Nevada  rcacbcs  from  the  37tli  to  tlie  43d  meridian  west  from 
"Washington  (114^  to  120°  "west  from  Greenwich),  and,  from  the  point  where  it 
adjoins  Aiizona  (near  the  35th),  to  the  42d  deoTce  of  north  ktitude,  being 
bounded  by  Oregon  and  Idalio  on  the  north,  by  Utah  and  Arizona  on  the  east, 
by  Arizona  on  the  south,  and  by  California  on  the  southwest  and  west.  Prior 
to  1866  the  State  extended  no  iarther  east  than  the  38th  meridian,  and  no  far- 
ther soutli  tlian  the  37th  degree  of  north  latitude,  Congress  that  year  having 
taken  from  Utah  and  added  to  Nevada  one  degree  of  longitude.  A  tract  of 
irregular  shape,  covering  an  area  of  some  12,000  square  miles,  lying  between 
California  and  the  Colorado  River,  and  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  37th 
degree  of  north  latitude,  was  at  the  same  time  taken  from  Arizona  and  given  to 
this  State,  which,  with  these  additions,  has  now  an  area  of  about  112,190  square 
miles,  or  71,800,000  acres,  from  which  about  1,600  square  miles  may  be 
deducted  for  the  area  covered  by  the  water  surface  of  various  small  lakes  within 
its  borders.  In  the  organic  act  creating  the  Territoiy  of  Nevada,  Congress 
designated  the  dividing  ridge  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  for  the  western  boundary 
thereof,  contingent  on  the  consent  of  California,  which  by  this  arrangement 
would  be  required  to  surrender  a  considerable  strip  of  country  lying  within  her 
limits  east  of  the  Sierra,  which,  notwithstanding  much  importunity  on  the  part 
of  her  neighbor,  she  declined  to  do.  In  the  absence  of  any  survey  estabhshing 
the  boundary  between  these  two  countries  (a  fixed  geographic  line),  much 
uncertainty  prevailed  as  to  its  precise  location,  a  circumstance  that  afterward 
led  to  a  conflict  of  jurisdiction,  threatening  to  end  in  serious  results.  "With  a 
view  to  settling  this  question  and  preventing  further  difficulties,  the  Legislature 
of  California  passed  a  law  in  1863,  providing  for  a  joint  survey  to  ascertain  and 
adjust  this  boundary;  which,  having  afterward  been  done,  set  the  matter  at 
rest  by  giving  to  that  State  the  greater  part  of  the  territory  in  dispute.  The 
term  Nevada,  signifying  in  Spanish  a  heavy  fall  of  snow,  was  adopted  as  a  State 
cognomen,  because  of  the  immense  bodies  of  snow  that  fall  on  the  Sierra 
Nevada  rrjige  of  mountains  lying  partly  within  its  limits,  and  bordering  it  for  a 
long  distance  ou  the  west,  as  well  as  upon  many  of  the  mountain-chains  in  the 
interior  of  the  State.  Nevada  is  subdivided  into  twelve  counties,  nine  of  which 
were  created  at  the  time  of  its  first  organization  and  three  since.  These  coun- 
ties are  of  very  unequal  dimensions;  the  more  western,  owing  to  their  being  the 
site  of  the  principal  mineral  discoveries,  their  proximity  to  Calitbrnia,  and  other 
favoring  circumstances,  being,  as  a  general  thing,  more  populous,  and  conse- 
quently smaller  than  those  situated  farther  in  the  interior. 

POPULATION. 

The  number  of  inhabitants  in  the  State,  exclusive  of  Indians,  amounts  to 
about  35,000,  being  somewhat  less  than  it  was  three  or  four  years  ago,  when 
the  population  was  much  swollen  by  speculators,  adventurers,  and  other  tran- 


186  SKETCH    OF    NEVADA. 

sient  persons,  attracted  to  tlie  countiy  by  cariosity,  or  tlie  hope  of  speedy  gain. 
This  decrease  of  inhabitants  is  attributable  chiefly  to  the  diminution  of  this 
class,  and  a  considerable  drain  caused  by  emig-ration  to  the  adjacent  Territories 
of  Idaho  and  Montana,  mucli  of  which  is  now  making  its  way  back  to  this 
State.  That  it  did  not  largely  consist  of  the  working  population  is  shown  bj^ 
the  advance  of  improvements,  and  the  steady  and  marked  increase  in  tlie  prod- 
uct of  bullion,  as  well  as  in  the  other  staples  of  the  country  ever  since ;  the 
large  quantity  of  land  taken  up,  and  the  number  of  permanent  settlements  made 
thereon,  also  pointing  to  a  similar  conclusion.  Of  the  population  accounted 
civilized,  about  three  per  cent,  consists  of  Chinese,  mostly  confined  to  the  cities 
and  larger  towns.  The  people  of  African  lineage  amount  to  two  or  three  hun- 
dred in  the  State,  some  of  them  being  among  its  earliest  residents,  and  nearly 
all  distinguished  for  industry  and  thrift.  Anterior  to  the  summer  of  1859  the 
number  of  white  inhabitants  in  the  region  included  within  the  present  limits  of 
Nevada  did  not  exceed  1,000,  which,  according  to  the  census  taken  in  August, 
1861,  had  then  been  increased  to  16,367,  the  most  of  whom  were  confined  to 
the  western  margin  of  the  State.  As  nearly  as  can  be  estimated  the  present 
population  is  distributed  as  follows :  Douglas  County  2,000,  Ormsby  3,500, 
Washoe  1,500,  Storey  14,000,  Lyon  2,500,  Churchill  500,  Roop  500,  Humboldt 
],500,  Lander  6,000,  Nye  2,000,  Lincoln  500,  and  Esmeralda  2,500. 

Society  here,  as  in  California,  being  gathered  from  every  quarter  of  the 
globe,  bears  a  somewhat  cosmopolitan  impress.  Owing  to  the  frequent 
stoppage  of  oyerland  immigrants,  a  rather  larger  proportion  of  the  inhabi- 
tants than  usual  are  native  born  and  originally  from  the  West.  The  Chinese 
reside  mostly  in  the  towns,  the  self-employed  being  chiefly  engaged  as  wood- 
gatherers,  laundry-men,  artisans,  or  traders  with  their  own  people — gambling 
being  the  sole  occupation  of  a  considerable  number.  Those  in  the  service  of  the 
Caucasians  are  generally  employed  in  the  more  menial  capacities,  working  for 
about  one-half  the  wages  paid  white  men.  Nearly  the  entire  female  portion  of 
the  population  arc  debased  to  the  last  degree.  So  universal  is  the  moral  degra- 
dation of  this  class,  that  it  is  doiibtful  whether,  of  the  four  or  five  hundred  Asiatic 
women  in  the  State,  a  single  one  could  be  found  of  unquestioned  virtue  ;  the  men 
also  being,  for  the  most  part,  much  addicted  to  lasciviousness  and  the  gratification 
of  other  low  desires.  Though  quiet  and  industrious,  sho\ying  but  little  inclina- 
tion to  mingle  with  the  whites,  or  participate  in  the  management  of  public  aftairs, 
there  is  a  prejudice  entertained  against  this  people  amounting  to  a  positive  aversion 
on  the  part  of  almost  every  other  race  ;  this  repugnance  being  so  deep-seated 
and  universal  as  to  place  them  in  many  respects  under  the  ban  of  public  senti- 
ment, shutting  them  out  not  only  from  certain  conventional  but  sometimes  from 
even  graver  privileges — the  Asiatic  often  being  denied  immunities  freely  extended 
to  the  Negro  and  Indian.  These  discriminations  arc  not  confined  to  social  life, 
but  aflfect  business  relations  as  w^ell,  the  testimony  of  these  people  not  being 
admitted  in  legal  evidence  as  against  the  whites.  In  many  of  the  mining  dis- 
tricts of  Nevada  the  Chinese  are  prohibited  by  the  local  laws  from  holding  claims, 
a  privilege  never  withheld  from  any  other  race  or  class  of  people. 

ABORIGINES. 

The  aboriginal  races  residing  within  this  State  consist  of  four  principal  tribes, 
or  nations,  to  wit,  the  Washocs,  I'ah-Utahs,  Shoshoncs,  and  Bannocks,  all  marked 
by  strong  similarities  in  their  jihysical  appearance,  modes  of  life,  social  polity, 
religious  notions,  etc.  Something  like  a  division  of  territory,  however,  exists 
among  them,  the  Washocs  inhabiting  a  strip  of  country  along  the  western  margin 
of  the  state,  the  Pah-Utahs  the  balance  of  the  western  and  the  southern,  while 
the  Shoshoncs  occupy  the  eastern,  and  the  Bannocks  the  extreme  northern 
portion  of  the  State.  The  latter,  made  up  in  good  part  of  outcasts  and  renegades 
from  the  tribes  about  them,  arc  generally  accounted  more   bloodthirsty  and 


SKETCH    OF    NEVADA.  187 

treacherous  than  their  iiei^libors,  a  roputntion  that,  juflo-ing-  from  their  persist- 
ent hostilities  ami  recent  outraovs,  seems  well  deserved.  Considering  the  extent 
of  country  over  which  they  are  scattered,  these  tribes  are  not  numerous  ;  and 
although  it  is  dithcult  to  estimate  their  precise  number,  it  does  not,  perliai)s, 
exceed  ten  or  twelve  thousand  in  the  State — a  portion  of  the  territory  inhabited 
by  them,  or  over  which  they  roam,  lying  outside  its  limits.  The  Wasliocs,  as  a 
family,  are  the  fewest ;  while  the  Pah-Utahs  are  the  most  numerous  of  tliese 
tribes,  whicli  are  sometimes  further  subdivided  into  bands  or  families,  those 
occupying  a  particular  section  of  country  being  dislingnishcd  by  local  names,  as 
the  Toquimas,  Monos,  etc.  As  compared  with  many  barbarous  nations  on  the 
continent,  these  Indians  are  not  remarkably  ferocious  or  warlike,  or  otherwise 
excessively  addicted  to  the  vices  characteristic  of  savage  life,  havinj^,  Avith  the 
exception  of  the  Bannocks,  offered  no  concerted  opposition  to  the  settlement  of 
their  country  by  the  whites,  and  but  rarely  attacking  in  force  immigrant  parties 
passing  through  it.  Yet,  like  all  savages,  they  are  easily  tempted  to  depredate 
on  their  civilized  neighbors,  sometimes  destroying  property  and  even  life  in  the 
most  wanton  and  cruel  manner,  the  losses  sustained  from  these  attacks  being  in 
the  aggregate  quite  large.  Formerly  intertribal  difHcultics  were  common  with 
these  people,  bloody  wars  being  often  waged  between  them,  resulting  in  a  sen- 
sible reduction  of  their  numbers.  Dissensions  and  feuds  between  the  minor 
subdivisions  of  the  several  nations  were  also  of  frequent  occurrence.  The  stealin"" 
of  the  squaws  of  one  class  by  another,  encroachments  upon  neighboring  territory, 
etc.,  being  the  chief  causes  of  these  troubles.  Male  captives  taken  in  war  are 
killed,  women  and  children  reduced  to  slavery.  Since  the  advent  of  the  whites 
into  their  country  these  internal  animosities  seem  to  have  been  suppressed,  or,  at 
least,  have  but  rarely  manifested  themselves  in  a  flagrant  manner.  [The  large 
and  sudden  influx  of  whites,  caused  by  the  discovery  of  silver,  so  thorouo-hly 
satisfied  these  tribes  of  the  futility  of  attempting  to  prevent  their  settlement  in 
the  country  that  they  never  combined  to  oppose  it,  contenting  themselves  with 
a  few  protests  against  the  destruction  of  their  pine-nut  forests,  the  seeds  of  which 
form  with  them  a  staple  comestible,  and  with  an  occasional  act  of  individual  re- 
taliation. The  Indians,  though  wandering  much  and  shifting  from  place  to  place 
for  the  purpose  of  fishing,  hunting,  or  obtaining  other  means  of  subsistence,  have 
still  their  favorite  places  of  abode,  these  being  generally  near  the  lakes  and  streams, 
or  along  the  mouutaiu-dells,  where  wood  and  water  are  of  easy  procurement  and 
more  ready  shelter  is  gained  from  the  winds  and  storms.  In  these  and  similar 
localities  the  winter  is  usually  passed,  the  balance  of  the  year  being  mostly  spent 
in  the  mountains,  where,  during  the  autumn,  they  gather  the  pine-nut,  or  in  the 
valley  and  on  the  plains,  where  they  obtain  a  great  variety  of  food.  With  the 
exception  of  a  little  corn  and  barley,  and  a  few  melons  raised  by  some  of  the 
more  southeastern  tribes,  these  Indians  cultivate  no  lands,  though  sometimes 
irrigating  a  species  of  natural  clover  upon  which,  when  young  and  tender,  they 
love  to  feed.  The  culture  of  barley,  but  recently  practised,  and  confined  to  a 
few  small  patches,  is  the  result  of  accident,  this  grain  having  first  sprung  up  from 
some  seed  scattered  by  the  whites  in  the  Pahranagat  region.  The  habit  of  grow- 
ing melons  and  corn  was  derived,  no  doubt,  from  the  natives  farther  south. 
Being  thus  almost  solely  dependent  upon  the  natural  products  of  the  country 
for  sustenance,  these  people,  though  rejecting  nothing,  however  coarse  or  unpal- 
atable, that  will  support  life,  are  sometimes  sorely  pinched  from  want  of  food. 
The  articles  upon  which  they  mainly  rely  for  subsistence  are  pine-nuts,  game,  fish, 
grass-seed,  and  various  kinds  of  roots,  berries,  and  tender  vegetation,  there  being 
scarcely  any  thing  that  grows  out  of  the  ground  or  creeps  upon  its  surface  that 
they  are  too  dainty  to  eat.  Insects,  bugs,  vernjin,  and  reptiles  of  every  description, 
with  the  exception  of  a  certain  species  of  lizard,  are  by  them  esteemed  wholesome 
and  devoured  with  satisfaction.  When  the  crop  of  pine-mits  is  abundant,  which 
docs  not  happen  every  season,  the  Indian  in  this  region  is  secure  against  fiiminc. 


188  SKETCH    OF    NEVADA. 

This  nut,  having  a  thin  tender  shell,  and  being  similar  in  shape  to  a  small-sized 
pea-nut,  is  obtained  from  the  cone  of  the  pifion,  a  scrubby  species  of  pitch-pine, 
found  in  scattered  groves  on  many  of  the  mountains  of  Nevada.  Its  meat  is  oily, 
tasting  something  like  that  of  the  hickory-nut,  with  a  slightly  terebinthine  flavor. 
They  are,  however,  palatable  and  nutritious,  being  relished  alike  by  the  white 
and  the  red  man.  They  are  gathered  by  the  squaws,  who,  in  the  fall  of  the  year, 
provided  with  long,  slender  poles,  beat  the  cones  from  the  limbs,  after  which 
they  are  thrown  in  a  heap  and  the  outside  charred  with  fire,  causing  the  lobes 
to  open,  when  the  seeds  are  easily  extracted,  and  after  drying  are  put  away  for 
future  use.  Hares  and  rabbits  are  the  only  kind  of  game  that  are  plentiful  in 
this  part  of  the  Great  Basin.  The  mountain-goat  inhabits  a  few  localities,  and 
antelope  ai'e  occasionally  seen  ;  the  bear  rarely  or  never.  The  sage-hen  is  the  only 
bird,  except  water-fowl,  npon  which  the  Indian  can  rely  for  game.  Geese,  ducks, 
cranes,  and  pelicans,  are  numerous  about  the  lakes  and  sloughs  at  certain  seasons 
of  the  year,  many  of  them  being  taken  at  these  times  by  the  natives.  The  im- 
plements and  devices  employed  by  these  people  for  capturing  their  prey  consist 
of  fire-arms,  the  bow^  and  arrow,  with  a  variety  of  nets,  traps,  etc.  Salmon  and 
the  larger  kinds  offish  are  speared,  or,  like  the  smaller,  caught  in  weirs,  or  with 
the  hook  and  line,  draining  the  streams  and  other  artifices  sometimes  being  re- 
sorted to  for  this  purpose.  The  habitation  of  the  Nevada  Indian  is  of  the  most 
rude  and  temporary  kind ;  his  "  wick-ee-up  "  or  wigwam  consisting,  at  best,  of 
nothing  more  than  a  few  willows  bent  into  a  conical  shape  and  covered  with 
grass  or  bark.  Oftener  the  only  shelter  of  himself  and  family  is  composed  of  a 
little  brush,  piled  to  the  windward  of  his  camp-fire,  or  such  protection  as  a  cliff  or 
tree  may  be  able  to  afford.  His  dress  is  equally  comfortless  and  scanty,  being 
made  up  in  his  native  state  of  a  blanket-like  robe,  constructed  by  sewing  together 
the  skins  of  hares  and  rabbits,  with  moccasins  made  from  deer-skins  or  such  other 
material  as  he  may  be  able  to  obtain.  Recently  such  as  have  most  intercourse 
Avith  the  whites  are  beginning  to  adopt  the  costume  of  the  latter,  attiring  them- 
selves in  cast-ofF  clothing,  or  purchasing  new  when  they  have  the  means  for  doino- 
so.  The  women  are  shy,  and  in  their  primitive  state  disposed  to  be  chaste,  any 
violation  of  the  conjugal  tie  on  their  part  formerly  subjecting  them  to  the  penalty 
of  death,  and,  although  the  rigor  of  this  law  has  of  late  been  much  relaxed,  it  is 
still  sometimes  enforced  against  offenders.  Both  the  men  and  women  are,  as  a 
general  thing,  deep-chested  and  well  built,  with  the  exception  of  their  limbs, 
which,  both  arms  and  legs,  are  usually  small.  The  adult  males  have  an  average 
height  of  about  five  and  a  half  feet,  the  females  being  from  six  to  eight  inclies  short- 
er. The  latter,  as  among  the  most  savage  races,  are  the  drudges  of  all  work,  hav- 
ing to  perform  most  of  the  labor  requisite  to  procure  a  living  both  for  themselves 
and  their  children,  as  well  as  for  the  men.  Both  sexes  are  filthy  in  tlieir  persons, 
and,  as  they  grow  old,  sometimes  become  extremely  ngly — this  being  especially 
the  case  with  the  women.  These  people,  without  having  any  creed  or  elaborate 
system  of  religion,  believe  in  a  Supreme  Being,  the  immortality  of  the  soul,  and 
different  conditions  of  happiness  hereafter,  dependent  on  man's  actions  in  this 
state  of  existence.  They  have  neither  priests  nor  "medicine-men,"  or  at  least 
no  class  set  apart  for  the  exclusive  practice  of  these  callings.  Feasts,  or  pow-wows, 
partaking  apparently  of  both  a  religious  and  convivial  character,  are  common,  eat- 
ing, dancing,  and  a  variety  of  ceremonies  being  practised  on  these  occasions.  In 
disposing  of  the  dead,  both  cremation  and  burial  are  resorted  to,  the  latter  being 
most  in  vogue.  On  the  death  of  relatives,  the  women  set  up  a  dismal  wail,  in 
which  the  children  and  men  sometimes  join,  the  same  being  continued  for  davs 
and  nights  together.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  apparent  anguish  experienced  by 
these  poor  creatures,  or  surpass  in  plaintive  tenderness  the  cries  uttered  on  these 
occasions  of  sorrow.  These  tribes  have  chiefs  both  for  war  and  council,  these 
offices  being  in  part  hereditary  and  in  part  conferred  as  the  rewards  of  personal 
merit.     Being  without  property  or  any  complicated  system  of  government,  they 


SKETCH    OF    NEVADA.  Igg 

have  few  laws,  all  questions  of  inoment  \mn<r  settled  by  the  eliiefs  or  tlie  people 
in  council.  Gross  otfenders  are  tabooed  or  put  to  deatli  by  a  o-cneral  decree  of 
the  tribe  to  which  they  belouo-.  rolyo-aniy,  without  bein<r  comnion,  is  tolerated 
and  occasionally  practised  by  the  leadiiiy-  men,  none  of  whom,  however,  arc  a])t 
to  have  more  than  two  wives.  The  marriao-o  rite  is  a  sim])le  affair,  consisting;  of 
a  mere  ao-reement  between  the  parties,  and  not  cousndered  particularly  binding 
on  the  part  of  the  husband,  who  is  at  liberty  to  dissolve  the  alliance  Avhcn  he 
chooses.  The  women  are  not  fruitful,  their  progeny  rarely  exceeding  five  or  six 
in  number.  The  only  domestic  animal  owned  by  these  Indians  is  the  horse  or 
the  dog.  Of  the  former  they  have  but  few,  Avhile  the  latter  are  nmnerous,  and  of  a 
very  Avorthless  species,  being  apparently  a  cross  between  some  degenerate 
species  of  the  canine  race  and  the  coyote.  How  these  wretched  curs  manage  to 
keep  life  in  them  is  a  mystery.  But  the  dog,  like  his  master,  is  not  at  all  dainty, 
devom'ing  such  garbage  as  the  latter  may  refuse,  and  in  extremities  prolonging 
life  by  feeding  upon  any  fecal  matter  he  may  come  across.  AVlien  nothing  better 
offers,  the  squaws  grind  up  the  seed  of  the  artemisia  and  give  it  to  these  animals, 
for  which,  miserable  and  useless  as  they  are,  they  cherish  a  great  affection. 
The  Indian's  horse  fares  no  better  than  his  dog,  being  always  backsore,  over- 
burdened, and  starved  to  the  point  of  emaciation.  These  animals  arc  not  used 
for  draught — only  for  riding  and  packing,  the  latter  being  a  service  they  are 
obliged  to  share  in  common  with  the  women. 

Many  of  the  Nevada  Indians  residing  in  the  vicinity  of  mining-camps  and 
the  larger  settlements  arc  beginning  to  be  employed  by  the  whites,  their  services 
in  a  variety  of  capacities  being  found  very  useful.  Where  a  suital)le  opportunity 
offers  they  are  not  unwilling  to  work,  many  of  theni  performing  certain  kinds 
of  unskilled  labor  nearly  as  well  as  the  whites.  In  the  towns  the  men  find  em- 
ployment wheeling  and  shovelling  dirt,  chopping  wood,  carrying  water,  etc. ;  the 
younger  and  more  intelligent  of  the  squaws  making  fair  wages  at  washing, 
while  both  sexes  engage  in  packing  in  fuel  on  their  backs,  for  which  they  always 
find  a  ready  market.  As  a  prospector  the  Indian  is  very  expert,  the  miners  often 
securing  his  aid  when  going  out  on  a  tour  of  exploration  ;  some  of  the  most 
valuable  mineral  discoveries  in  southeastern  Nevada  having  been  made  by  Indians 
in  the  service  of  the  wliites.  They  are  also  adroit  assorters  of  ore,  having  a 
quick  eye  to  detect  the  differences  in  quality,  for  which  reason  some  of  them  are 
employed  by  the  mill-men  for  this  purpose.  Upon  the  farms  also,  especially  in 
the  harvest-fields,  many  of  them  prove  acceptable  hands ;  their  wages  in  tliose 
several  callings  averaging  about  one-third  those  paid  Avhitc  laborers.  The 
natural  improvidence  of  the  Indian  prevents  his  laying  up  money  or  accumulating 
property,  while  he  is  prone  to  abandon  work  on  the  most  trivial  pretext.  The 
acquisition  of  a  few  dollars  fills  him  with  a  sense  of  independence,  besides  being 
apt  to  awaken  his  natural  passion  for  gambling,  a  vice  to  which  he  is  much  ad- 
dicted, and  in  the  gratification  of  whicli  he  will  sometimes  stake  his  last  remnant 
of  clothing.  Latterly  cards  are  his  chief  im])lements,  though  not  without  native 
devices  for  conducting  these  games  of  hazard.  Toward  the  Chinese  the  Indians 
on  this  coast  everywhere  manifest  a  supreme  contempt,  regarding  them  as  desti- 
tute of  the  virtues  peculiar  to  either  the  white  or  the  red  man,  and  often,  in  inferior 
numbers,  despoiling  these  pusillanimous  people  with  impunity.  There  is,  however, 
an  additional  reason  for  this  enmity — the  Chinaman,  who  seeks  the  same  callings 
with  the  Indian,  often  underworking  the  latter,  and  thus  becoming  his  keenest 
competitor  in  an  industrial  point  of  view. 

Since  mixing  with  the  whites,  these  Indians,  contracting  the  diseases  incident 
to  such  intercourse,  have  rapidly  diminished  in  numbers,  indicating  the  near  ap- 
proach of  the  time  when,  as  a  race,  they  must  suffer  final  extinction.  The  only 
thing  that  could  long  postpone  this  inevitable  result  would  be  their  collection 
upon  reservations,  there  to  be  trained  to  habits  of  industry  and  instructed  in  the 
arts  of  civilized  life.     Their  more  thorouoh  domestication  might  even  tend  to 


190   .  SKETCH    OF    NEVADA. 

arneliorate  their  condition  and  delay  tbe  period  of  their  extermination  as  a  peo- 
ple. Two  extensive  reservations,  well  adapted  to  the  purpose,  have  already 
been  set  apart  in  this  State  for  their  use — the  one  being  at  the  mouth  of  the 
AValker  River,  and  the  other  on  the  Tucker,  at  the  point  where  it  debouches  into 
Pyramid  Lake.  These  places  have  been  made  the  resort  of  large  bands  of  Pah- 
Utahs,  but,  owing"  to  a  want  of  sufficient  means,  no  efficient  and  systematic  meas- 
ures have  yet  been  adopted  for  supplying  them  with  implements,  or  instructing 
them  in  the  cultivation  of  the  soil ;  and  since  a  small  appropriation,  properly 
administered,  would  suffice  for  this  purpose,  it  might  be  good  policy  for  the  Gen- 
eral Government  to  provide  accordingly.  With  a  little  aid  at  the  outset  these 
reservations,  now  useless,  would  soon  become  the  homes  of  a  large  and  self-sus- 
taining population,  inasmuch  as  these  Indians,  besides  having  a  natural  aptitude 
for  the  business  of  fjirming,  will  appreciate  the  advantages  that  would  be  likely 
to  accrue  to  them  from  possessing  these  lands  and  earning  their  own  livelihood. 
At  present  all  the  tribes  in  this  State,  except  the  Bannocks,  are  peacefully  inclined, 
and  even  anxious  for  more  intimate  and  friendly  relations  with  the  wdiites — a 
disposition  that  might  be  availed  of  to  the  beneiit  of  both  races,  improving  the 
moral  and  physical  condition  of  the  Indian,  and  nourishing  a,  much-needed  ele- 
ment of  cheap  labor  in  the  country.  The  Bannocks,  always  a  thieving  and 
vindictive  tribe,  killing  immigrants,  and  causing  northern  miners  and  settlers  a 
great  deal  of  trouble,  have  of  late  manifested  their  murderous  propensities  in  a 
manner  that  has  aroused  general  indignation,  and  impressed  the  popular  mind 
with  the  necessity  for  their  utter  destruction.  Owing  to  the  determined  and 
persistent  hostilities  of  these  savages,  Government  has  been  compelled  to  keep  a 
considerable  force,  composed  of  small  detachments  of  troops,  stationed  at  differ- 
ent points  along  the  northwestern  frontier  of  the  State,  for  the  double  purpose  of 
protecting  the  settlers  in  that  region,  and  parties  passing  through  it  to  southern 
Oregon,  Idaho,  and  Montana.  In  numerous  conflicts  had  between  the  regular 
and  volunteer  soldiery  and  these  Indians,  many  of  the  latter  have  been  slain, 
Avithout  sensibly  diminishing  their  numbers  or  at  all  abating  their  animosity, 
rendering  the  adoption  of  a  more  rigorous  policy  toward  them  necessary. 

EARLY    HISTORY    AND    SETTLEMENT    OF    NEVADA. 

At  the  time  the  territory  now  constituting  the  State  of  Nevada  was  acquired 
from  Mexico,  there  were  no  white  inhabitants  within  its  limits;  the  sole  occu- 
pants of  this  region  prior  to  that  event  consisting  of  the  aboriginal  races,  among 
Avhom  even  the  Jesuit  fxthers,  with  all  their  zeal  and  self-denying  toil,  appear 
never  to  have  extended  their  labors.  Not  a  mission  had  then  by  them  been 
planted  so  far  north  at  any  point  east  of  the  Snowy  Mountains.  A  few  trappers 
and  Indian  traders  had  pursued  their  vocations  along  the  streams  or  about  the 
slides  and  sloughs,  some  small  companies  of  immigrants  had  passed  over,  and 
several  exploring  parties  in  the  service  of  the  Government  had  flitted  across  these 
solitary  wastes,  but  not  even  the  most  adventurous  and  hardy  white  man  had 
ever  presumed  to  take  up  his  abode  within  their  gloomy  precincts.  Anterior  to 
the  acquisition  of  this  region  by  our  Government,  Fremont  had  penetrated  vari- 
ous parts  of  it,  this  indefatigable  explorer,  in  connection  with  Stanbury,  Beck- 
witb,  Simpson,  and  others,  having  afterward  crossed  it  by  different  routes  while 
prosecuting  their  surveys  for  a  railroad  from  the  Mississippi  River  to  the  Pacific 
Ocean  ;  and  although  the  labors  of  these  men,  chiefly  directed  by  observations 
on  the  topography  and  other  physical  features  of  the  country,  shed  much  light 
upon  these  points,  they  failed  to  impart  any  great  amount  of  knowledge  as  to  its 
mineral  wealth  or  general  fitness  for  the  abode  of  enlightened  man.  Of  the  hard- 
ships, losses,  andsuftcrings  of  the  immigrants  who  crossed  the  great  interior 
basin  of  Utah  at  an  early  "day — of  their  struggles  with  the  elements,  and  contests 
with  the  Indians — their' hunger,  thirst,  and'toil — but  little  has  been  recorded. 


SKETCH    OF    NEVADA.  191 

Plantino-  no  scttlomcnts  and  loavinjj  no  moininieuts  boliiiul  tlicm,  the  sacrifices 
and  labors  of  tliis  vaiiu'iiard  of  a  bottcr  civilization  on  tlic  sliorcs  of  the  Pacific 
liavo  failed  to  bo  fully  appreciated,  because  not  ii'cnerally  understood.  The  mo.st 
of  tbein,  however,  liavin<j;  attained  the  objects  of  their  enterprise  in  crossincj  the 
continent,  feel  too  well  satisfied  with  their  subsequent  o-ood  fortune  to  repine  at 
the  public  forii'etfnlness  of  the  services  they  rendered  their  country  and  the  world. 
Of  all  the  sutferini;  endured  by  these  pioneers  of  the  Far  AVest  the  most  sio;iial 
and  appallin<>;  were  those  encountered  by  a  company  of  immii>;rants  known  as  the 
Donner  party,  wdio,  cominn^  mostly  from  Illinois  and  Missouri,  crossed  the  plains 
in  the  summer  of  1846.  Ignorant  of  the  country,  and  attempting-  to  reach  Cali- 
fornia by  a  near  route,  they  were  so  retarded  that  they  failed  to  arrive  at  the 
foot  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  until  late  in  November.  There,  while  encamped  at  a 
considerable  elevation  on  the  eastern  slope  of  the  mountains,  they  were  over- 
taken by  a  premature  and  terrible  storm,  the  snow  falling  in  the  course  of  a  few 
days  to  tiie  depth  of  10  or  12  feet,  burying  up  not  only  themselves  and  wagons, 
but  also  their  stock,  which  they  had  inconsiderately  suffered  to  stray  away — a 
fatal  oversight,  inasmuch  as  it  cut  off  the  only  means  left  for  the  prolongation  of 
their  lives.  The  scanty  stock  of  provisions  brought  with  them  being  soon  ex- 
hausted, these  most  unfortunate  beings  had  no  resource  left  but  to  feed  upon  the 
bodies  of  such  of  their  companions  as  had  died — two  of  their  Indian  guides  hav- 
ing previously  been  slain  and  devoured.  After  a  time,  some  of  the  stronger  and 
more  resolute  of  the  party,  taking  advantage  of  a  return  of  pleasant  weathei', 
pushed  their  way  over  the  niountains,  and,  arriving  at  Sutter's  Fort,  made  known 
the  dejilorable  situation  of  their  companions,  to  Avhose  aid  a  relief  party  was  at 
once  dispatched.  On  their  reaching  the  tragic  spot,  since  known  as  "  Starva- 
tion Camp,"  a  scene  of  indescribable  horror  presented  itself  to  their  view.  Of 
the  eighty  persons  Avho  originally  composed  the  company,  thirty-six — twenty- 
eight  males  and  eight  females — had  perished,  their  bones  and  such  fragments  of 
their  bodies  as  had  not  been  devoured  being  scattered  around.  The  sui'vivors, 
lean  and  ghastly,  appeared  ferocious  or  idiotic,  according  as  their  sufferings  had 
severallv  affected  them.  Some  were  overcome  with  emotions  of  gratitude  and  joy, 
while  others,  gloomy  and  taciturn,  rejected  the  food  that  was  brought  them, 
ghoul-like,  prefeiTing  the  cannibalistic  fare  upon  which  they  subsisted  so  long. 
All  of  them,  however,  with  the  exception  of  three,  were  removed,  the  most  of 
them  reaching  California  in  safety.  Of  those  left  behind,  two,  Jacob  Donner 
and  Louis  Keisbury,  were  too  weak  to  travel ;  while  the  third,  ISIrs.  Donner, 
thouo-h  strong,  and  able  to  make  the  journey,  remained  from  choice,  preferring 
death  to  the  abandoning  of  her  husband  while  yet  alive.  No  remonstrance  could 
shake  her  purpose,  wherefore  this  heroic  woman,  having  taken  a  sad  farewell  of 
her  children,  of  wdiom  she  had  several,  resigned  herself  to  her  fate,  while  the 
relief  party,  unable  to  tarry,  as  the  threatening  storms  were  again  gathering  on 
the  Sierra",  having  left  what  little  provisions  they  could  spare,  hastened  away. 
About  the  mi.ldle  of  April,  nearly  two  months  later,  another  expedition,  having 
been  sent  out  from  California  to  ascertain  the  fate  of  the  miserable  beings  left 
behind,  found  Keisbury  still  alive,  he  having  preserved  his  existence  by  feeding 
upon  the  bodies  of  his  two  less  fortunate  companions.  Donner  had  died  soon 
after  the  departure  of  the  first  relief  party,  and  his  wife,  famished  and  exhausted, 
a  few  days  later.  Keisbury  was  suspected  of  having  put  an  end  to  the  woman 
for  the  purpose  of  securing  her  flesh  before  it  became  emaciated  by  famine.  He 
was,  however,  on  a  subsequent  trial,  acquitted  of  this  charge.  Although  the  oc- 
currences here  related  did  not  take  place  within  the  actual  limits  of  Nevada,  the 
locality  is  very  near  its  western  boundary,  and,  being  wholly  on  the  eastern  side 
of  the  Sierra,  mav  justly  be  considered  as  belonging  to  the  history  of  this  Stato. 
The  earliest  permanent  settlers  in  western  Ut.di  were  Mormons,  who,  dur- 
ing the  year  18i8,  first  located  in  Carson  Valley  at  Genoa,  which  place  from  this 
circumstance  continued  for  some  time  thereafter  to  be  known  as  the  Mormon 


192  SKETCH    OF    NEVADA. 

Station.  The  following,  and  for  three  or  four  successive  years,  furtlier  settle 
ments  were  made  by  these  people,  several  families  locating  in  Eagle  and 
Waslioe  Valleys,  some  of  them  on  the  present  sites  of  Carson  City  and  Frank- 
town.  Their  number  afterward  gradually  increased  to  two  or  three  hundred, 
some  of  them  having  been  induced,  while  on  their  way  to  Califoniia,  to  settle 
here  by  the  beauty  .and  excellence  of  the  valleys ;  and  others  coming  in  pursu- 
ance of  instructions  from  their  superiors  at  Salt  Lake,  whose  policy  it  was  to 
secure  and  colonize  as  speedily  as  possible  all  the  choice  spots  within  the  rim 
of  the  Great  Basin,  with  a  view  to  prevent  their  settlement  by  Gentiles^  as  they 
impudently  styled  all  opponents  of  their  creed.  The  rapid  population  of  the 
Pacific  coast,  by  reason  of  the  California  gold  discovery  in  1848,  threatening  to 
thwart  the  colonization  schemes  of  the  Mormons,  exposing  the  adherents  of  that 
faith  to  annoyance  and  contempt,  they  held  themselves  aloof  from  the  Gentile 
world,  and,  leading  to  their  religious  demoralization  where  they  failed  to  do  so, 
caused  the  controlling  powers  to  issue  an  edict  in  1855,  commanding  their  fol- 
lowers in  these  distant  precincts  to  forsake  the  same  and  repair  to  Salt  Lake. 
In  obedience  to  this  mandate,  most  of  those  who  had  built  for  themselves  pleas- 
ant and  comfortable  homes  in  the  fertile  and  secluded  valleys  of  western  Utah, 
sacrificing  their  property  and  possessions  for  a  mere  pittance,  or  abandoning 
them  altogether,  departed  with  such  trifling  effects  as  they  could  carry  on  their 
wagons  for  the  central  settlement,  more  than  600  miles  distant  over  the  moun- 
tains and  deserts.  Finding  upon  their  arrival  there  how  much  they  had  been 
deceived,  and  disgusted  with  the  impositions  afterward  practised  upon  them,  a 
portion  of  these  people,  dispirited  and  impoverished,  returned  after  a  few  years 
to  Carson  Valley,  some  building  new  and  others  reoccupying  their  former  habi- 
tations. In  the  summer  of  1849  a  party  of  immigrants  journeying  toward  Cali- 
fornia, having  discovered  an  auriferous  bar  on  the  flat  at  the  mouth  of  Gold 
Canon,  near  where  the  town  of  Dayton  now  stands,  were  induced  to  stop  here 
and  engage  in  gold-washing,  the  diggings  paying  from  10  to  15  dollars  per 
day  to  the  hand,  very  nearly  what  was  then  considered  California  wages.  To 
their  number  others  coming  overland  were  added  every  year  thereafter,  which, 
with  some  traders,  adventurers,  and  miners  drawn  from  California,  served  to 
swell  the  population  of  "  the  Eastern  Slope,"  as  this  section  of  L'tah  was  then 
called,  to  something  over  a  thousand  souls  at  the  period  of  the  silver  discovery, 
made  in  the  summer  of  1859.  Of  this  number  one-fourth,  perhaps,  were 
engaged  in  mining,  the  balance  being  farmers,  traders,  herdsmen,  etc.  But 
little  land  was  at  that  time  enclosed  or  cultivated,  the  most  done  in  the  way  of 
farming  being  hay-cutting,  and  the  raising  of  a  few  vegetables,  the  population 
depending  on  California  chiefly  for  their  flour,  and  other  staples  of  provision,  as 
well  as  for  clothing,  hardware,  etc.,  except  in  so  far  as  these  supplies  could  be 
obtained  from  the  overland  immigration.  For  the  business  of  procuring  and 
raising  stock  "the  Eastern  Slope"  afl"orded  many  advantages  and  facilities. 
The  valleys  abounded  in  good  water  and  grass,  and  the  climate  was  sufficiently 
mild  to  enable  animals  to  get  through  the  winter  without  fodder  or  shelter, 
while  the  immigrants  arriving  across  the  plains  with  their  working  horses  and 
cattle,  and  often  even  their  loose  stock,  worn  out  and  impoverished,  Avere  ready 
to  dispose  of  the  same  on  easy  terms  to  the  herders  and  traders,  selling  them  for 
a  trifle,  or  exchanging  them  for  fresh  animals,  to  enable  them  to  continue  their 
journej',  or  for  provisions  and  such  other  commodities  as  they  stood  in  need  of. 
Some  seasons  a  great  deal  of  stock,  together  with  wagons  and  other  propei'ty, 
•was  abandoned  by  the  immigrants  in  Carson  Valley,  or  more  frequently  on  the 
deserts  beyond,  the  owners  being  unable  to  get  it  any  farther.  In  such  cases 
this  property  would  be  appropriated  by  the  settlers,  traders,  and  others,  who 
made  a  business  of  gathering  it  up,  going  5omctin>es  far  out  upon  the  desert  for 
this  purpose.  The  stock  so  collected,  having  under  careful  treatment  recuper- 
ated, was  either  taken  to  California  for  a  market,  or  kept  to  swell  the  herds  of 


SKETCH    OF    NEVADA.  ](}[; 

the  early  settler,  winch  often  became  numerous,  and  in  some  cases  v6ry  large. 
From  the  year  1850  to  18G0  parties  -were  in  tlic  liahit  of  leavincf  Califoraia 
every  suniiner,  and  crossini;  the  Sierra  with  small  pack-trains  loaded  with  flour, 
haoi'i',  J  other  provisions,  for  the  purpose  of  selling;  the  same  to  the  incom- 
inii'  iuaiiigrauts,  or  barterino;  them  for  stock,  which,  consisting  mainly  of  choice 
Aiaerican  horses,  cows,  and  oxen,  was  in  great  demand  in  California,  selling 
there  readily,  however  thin  in  flesh,  for  high  prices.  It  was  the  habit  of  these 
traders  to  proceed  to  Carson  Valley,  or  points  still  farther  east,  and,  meeting  there 
the  westward-lnmnd  immigrants,  themselves  often  out  of  provisions,  and  their 
slock  reduced  to  skeletons,  obtain  the  pick  of  their  flocks  and  teams  on  almost 
any  twms  they  might  see  fit  to  propose.  Apart  from  the  political  incidents 
hereinafter  related,  but  little  of  an  eventful  character  transpired  in  connection 
with  tlie  early  history  of  this  region.  The  Mormons,  who  from  the  first  had 
been  a  disturbing  element  in  the  community,  continued  to  be  a  source  of  cease- 
less disquietude,  until  western  Utah  was  created  into  a  separate  Territory, 
whereby  they  were  deprived  of  further  political  power.  AVith  the  usurpations 
and  outrages  complained  of  by  the  Gentile  population,  the  resident  Mormons 
had  little  to  do,  they  being  themselves,  for  the  most  part,  in  bad  standing  with 
the  ruling  priesthood  at  Salt  Lake,  because  of  their  contumacy  in  refusing  to 
tarry  at  that  place,  and  for  their  persistence  in  rejecting  polygamy  and  other 
dogmas  of  the  prelacy.  Still  they  continued  to  be  objects  of  aversion  and  dis- 
trust among  their  neighbors,  who  could  neither  forgive  them  for  the  acts  of 
their  rulers  nor  wholly  suppress  the  prejudice  excited  by  the  very  name  the}'' 
bore.  Prior  to  the  separation  mentioned,  the  Mormons  had  entire  political 
control  of  the  country,  making  all  laAvs  and  electing  or  appointing  all  subordi- 
nate public  officers — a  condition  of  things  that  naturally  chafed  their  opponents 
a  good  deal,  and  sometimes  furnished  just  grounds  of  complaint.  Laws, 
obscure,  partial,  and  unjust,  often  in  contravention  of  the  organic  act  and 
obnoxious  to  the  moral  sense  of  the  community,  were  passed.  Fn'mchises  were 
granted  to  the  adherents  of  the  church,  while  withheld  from  other  and  equally 
worthy  applicants.  Judicial  and  other  offices  were  filled  by  persons  illy  quali- 
fied for  the  positiou,  and  unlimited  jurisdiction  was  conferred  upon  infetipr 
courts.  Petty  officials  were  sometimes  invested  with  almost  absolute  power ; 
trial  by  jury  was  virtually  abolished ;  and,  as  if  bent  on  entirely  defeating  the 
administration  of  justice,  and  destroying  the  very  machinery  of  municipal  gov- 
ernment, the  county  of  Carson,  covering  nearly  the  whole  of  western  Utah,  was 
for  the  second  time  dismembered,  and  its  records  removed  to  Salt  Lake.  These 
proceedings,  as  may  well  be  supposed,  greatly  exasperated  the  unti-Mormon 
party,  who,  in  denouncing  the  oligarchy  at  headquarters,  abated  nothing  of 
their  enmity  toward  such  of  their  followers  as  resided  among  them.    • 

Meantime  certain  local  matters  had  led  to  dissensions  among  the  Gentile 
portion  of  the  settlers  themselves,  Avhereby  the  Mormons,  or  **^Saints,"  as  they 
styled  themselves,  from  sympathizing  with  the  weaker  party,  became  still  fur- 
ther the  objects  of  popular  dislike — a  feeling  that  did  not  cease  to  influence  local 
affiiirs,  until  the  large  influx  of  population  incident  to  the  discovery  of  the  silver- 
mines  occurred.  The  followir.g  extract  froin  a  sketch  of  this  region,  published 
in  1862,  illustrates  the  nature  and  causes  of  the  disagreements  above  alluded  to  : 

"  For  a  long  time  Carson  Valley  had  served  as  a  refuge  and  hiding-place  for 
certain  disreputable  parties  engaged  in  running  oti'  strayed  and  stolen  stock 
from  California.  Owing  to  its  remote  and  at  that  day  almost  inaccessible  situ- 
ation, it  atibrded  a  safe  retreat  to  these  depredators,  the  owners  of  the  property 
scarcely  ever  making  pursuit.  After  resting  and  feeding  for  a  few  days,  this 
stock  was  driven  thence  to  Salt  Lake,  generally  by  obscure  routes  well  known 
to  the  Mormons,  who  frequently  took  a  hand  in  this  business,  or,  being  herded 
for  a  time  in  some  of  the  valleys  about  Carson,  it  was  afterward  disposed  of  to 
the  traders  coming  in,  or  driven  into  California  at  remote  points  and  sold. 


194  SKETCH    OF    NEVADA. 

This  same  class  did  not  scruple  in  like  manner  to  prey  upon  the  overland  immi- 
gi'ants,  picking  up  such  cattle  as  had  strayed  from  camp,  or  through  weakness 
fallen  behind,  or,  where  opportunity  oft'ered,  stealing  them  outright.  These 
dishonest  practices  were  not  engaged  in  by  the  actual  residents  of  the  valley, 
who  sought  as  far  as  j^ossible  to  suppress  and  discourage  them,  being,  as  a  gen- 
eneral  thing,  an  honest  and  honorable  class  of  men,  though  not  remarkable  for 
industry  and  thrift.  To  this  latter  remark,  however,  there  were  exceptions,  a 
considerable  number  of  these  people  being  hard-working,  enterprising,  and  well 
to  do  iu  the  world. 

"  For  years  these  outrages  had  been  going  on  with  impunity,  to  the  groat  scan- 
dal of  the  old  settlers,  when  at  length  they  culminated  in  one  of  unusual  atrocity, 
and  which,  being  attended  by  circumstances  of  both  pillage  and  murder,  aroused 
the  entire  community  and  brought  down  upon  the  perpetrators  deserved  and 
summary  punishment." 

This  punishment  consisted  in  the  trial  and  execution  (jf  two  of  these  supposed 
offenders  by  a  "  Vigilance  Committee,"  and  the  banishment  of  others  suspected 
of  crimes  from  the  country,  a  movement  that,  failing  to  secure  the  approval  of 
the  entire  body  of  the  people,  led  to  bickerings  and  factions  that  kept  them  in  a 
constant  turmoil,  resulting  sometimes  in  personal  collisions  and  bloody  strifes. 

Prior  to  the  discovery  of  the  Comstock  mines,  there  were  but  few  mechanical 
and  no  manufacturing  establishments  in  western  Utah  ;  three  saw  and  two  flour 
mills,  with  about  an  equal  number  of  blacksmith  and  wagon  shops,  comprising 
every  thing  ranking  in  this  line  of  industry.  These  mills  were  all  driven  by 
water,  and  were  mostly  of  limited  capacity.  Up  to  this  time  no  roads  or  bridges 
had  been  built,  as  indeed  scarcely  any  were  needed,  the  country  being  nearly 
'  everywhere  easily  traversed  with  wagons,  and  the  streams  mostly  fordable,  ex- 
cept a  few  at  high  stages  of  water.  Of  public  edifices  it  can  hardly  be  said  there 
were  any,  some  two  or  three  small  school-houses  affording  all  needed  acconmio- 
dation  for  educational  and  religious  purposes.  The  wealth  of  the  inhabitants, 
consisting  chiefly  of  their  horses  and  cattle,  was  not  large  ;  and,  as  most  of  them 
graduated  their  wants  by  their  means,  they  were  enabled  to  subsist  almost  Avholly 
on  the  product  of  their  flocks  and  the  small  tracts  of  lauds  they  cultivated.  Be- 
fore the  year  1859  no  systematic  or  extended  effort  had  been  made  toward 
building  or  improving  a  wagon-road  over  the  Sierra  Nevada  lying  between  Utah 
and  Califoraia.  That  year  a  road  starting  from  Placerville  was  surveyed,  and 
partly  bailt  up  the  South  Fork  of  the  American  River,  under  an  appropriation 
made  by  the  Legislature  of  California,  aided  by  contributions  from  the  counties 
of  Sacramento  and  Eldorado.  The  improved  portion  of  this  road,  however, 
and  that  but  partially  completed,  extended  no  farther  than  the  base  of  the  main 
Sierra,  the  point  where  the  greatest  difficulties  began  in  crossing  that  range  of 
mountains.  The  next  year  several  wagon-roads  leading  from  different  points  in 
California  were  begun,  the  most  of  which,  having  afterward  been  completed, 
afford  easy  transit  for  loaded  teams  across  the  Sierra.  Over  two  of  these  thor- 
oughfares, the  one  known  as  the  Placerville  and  the  other  as  the  Donner  Lake 
route,  daily  lines  of  stages  are  now  running,  while  tri-and  semi-weekly  lines  pass 
over  several  others.  Some  of  these  roads,  after  crossing  the  main  mountain-ridge 
by  a  principal  trunk,  have  numerous  branches  diverging  on  either  side,  aft'ording 
ample  facilities  for  communicating  with  the  adjacent  country.  The  ago-regate 
cost  of  these  improvements  has  amounted  to  considerably  over  a  million  of 
dollars,  the  sums  expended  on  the  Placerville  route  alone  making  a  total  of  more 
than  half  that  amount.  They  are  nearly  all  the  work  of  private  enterprise,  having 
been  built  and  still  being  maintained  as  toll-roads.  Several  of  them  have  proved 
sources  of  gi-eat  profit  to  the  proprietors,  while  others  have  been  financial  feilures, 
their  revenues  being  insufficient  or  barely  enough  to  keep  them  in  repair.  Yet 
even  the  building  of  these  has  in  some  cases  conferred  much  benefit  ui^on  the 
public  at  large. 


SKETCH    OF    NEVADA.  I95 

Before  tlio  inauo-uration  of  the  silver-mining  era,  in  1850,  there  \vere  no 
towns  of  tnagnitiule  in  tiiis  part  of  Utali  Territory — Genoa,  tlie  largest  place,  not 
eontaininfr  over  two  hundred  inlial>itants,  while  Carson  City,  the  next  in  size, 
had  a  still  smaller  number.  Besides  these,  Chinatown,  Johnstown,  and  Gold 
Hill,  mining-camps,  and  Mottsville  and  Franktown,  agricultural  hamlets,  were 
the  only  places  deserving  even  the  name  of  villages.  IJpon  the  discovery  of  the 
silver-mines,  population,  rapidly  increased,  and  a  great  number  of  towns  were 
laid  out,  a  few  of  which  were  speedily  built  up,  Virginia  City  taking  the  lead, 
while  Carson,  also  a  place  of  quick  growth,  followed  up  at  a  slower  pace.  After 
these,  and  during  the  next  three  or  four  years,  Silver  City,  Gold  Hill,  Aurora, 
Dayton,  Ophir,  Austin,  Genoa,  Empire,  and  Washoe  Cities,  gradually  expanded 
into  active  towns;  several  camps  in  the  Humboldt  region  and  elsewhere  having 
meantime  groAvn  into  considerable  villages,  the  most  of  them  to  experience  a 
short-lived  prosperity  and  afterward  decline.  Many  other  towns  were  projected 
in  different  parts  of  the  country,  but  being  too  far  in  advance  of  mineral  develop- 
ment, few  of  them  ever  attained  to  any  size.  The  winter  of  1859-'G0  being 
nnusually  rigorous,  the  pioneer  settlers  in  Washoe  (as  the  country,  upon  the  dis- 
covery of  silver,  came  to  be  called)  suffered  many  deprivations  and  discomforts, 
provisions  being  scarce,  and  their  habitations,  hastily  constructed  of  the  most 
nide  and  flimsy  material,  affording  them  but  inadequate  protection  against  the 
inclement  weather.  There  was  also  such  an  insufficiency  of  fodder  that  more 
than  one-third  of  the  stock  in  the  country  perished  from  starv'ation  and  cold 
before  the  month  of  May  of  the  latter  year,  the  little  hay*gathered  the  preceding 
summer  being  early  consumed  by  the  demand  that  had  so  suddenly  sprung  up. 
Many  of  the  farmers  and  herdsmen  suffered  severely  from  this  cause,  losing  not 
only  their  young  stock  and  that  intended  for  the  shambles,  but  also  many  cows, 
horses,  and  work-cattle. 

Early  in  the  month  of  May,  1860,  four  white  men,  stopping  at  Williams 
Station,  on  the  lower  Carson  River,  were  murdered,  while  asleep,  by  a  small  party 
of  Indians.  This  bloody  act,  though  provoked  by  gross  outrages  previously  com- 
mitted against  the  savages  by  the  proprietors  of  the  place,  all  but  one  of  wliom 
were  absent  and  escaped  massacre,  called  for  speedy  punishment.  Instead,  how- 
ever, of  pursuing  the  individual  murderers  and  bringing  them  to  justice,  an  in- 
discriminate war  was  undertaken  against  the  entire  tribe  of  Pah-Utahs,  to  whom 
this  band  belonged.  A  company  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  men,  well  armed  and 
mounted,  hanng  collected  at  Carson,  took  their  departure,  nnder  Major  Ormsby, 
an  early  settler  on  "  the  Eastern  Slope,"  for  Pyramid  Lake,  intending  to  attack 
the  Indians  gathered  at  that  place.  The  latter,  however,  apprised  of  their  pur- 
pose, left  their  camp  at  the  lake,  and,  proceeding  up  the  Tucker  River  a  few  miles 
to  a  narrow  pass,  there  concealed  themselves,  to  the  number  of  several  hundred, 
on  either  side  of  the  stream.  The  banks  of  the  defile  selected  by  them  were 
covered  with  rocks,  afl'ording  them  perfect  protection,  and  through  it  their  foes 
were  obliged  to  pass.  When  the  latter,  ignorant  of  danger,  were  avcU  advanced 
into  this  gorge,  and  within  musket-range,  the  savages  opened  fire  upon  them, 
shooting  down  their  loaders  and  throwing  the  main  body  into  temporary  disor- 
der. The  whites,  however,  recovering  from  the  shock,  rallied,  and  manfully  stand- 
ing their  ground,  picked  off  such  Indians  as  appeared  in  sight;  but  with  so  little 
show  of  effectual  resistance,  that  they  were  finally  obliged  to  abandon  the  unecjual 
combat,  some  twenty  of  their  number  having  been  killed,  besides  many  wounded. 
Amongst  those  who  Veil  was  Ormsby,  the  leader  of  the  expedition.  Captain  Storey, 
Richard  Snowden,  and  several  other  -well-known  and  much-esteemed  citizens. 
Apprehensive  that  the  savages,  encouraged  by  their  success,  would  advance  upon 
the  frontier  settlements,  much  consternation  for  a  time  prevailed  in  Virginia  City 
and  other  exposed  localities.  AppHcation  was  made  to  California  for  aid,  from 
which  place  aiTns  and  troops  were  at  once  dispatched,  and  an  additional  force 
having  meantime  been  raised  in  Utah,  the  whole  took  up  their  line  of  march 


196  SKETCH    JF    NEVADA. 

toward  the  scene  of  tbis  lamentable  repulse,  hoping  that  the  Indians,  by  remain- 
ing in  that  vicinity,  would  aSbrd  them  an  opportunity  to  avenge  the  death  of  those 
who  had  already  fallen.  But  the  enemy,  too  wise  to  await  the  arrival  of  this 
more  formidable  body,  decamped,  and,  fleeing  into  the  northern  deserts,  placed 
themselves  beyond  the  reach  of  their  pursuers.  After  a  useless  chase  and  some 
skirmishing  between  small  parties,  in  which  a  few  Indians  were  killed,  the  troops 
Avere  withdrawn  froni  the  field,  and  finally  disbanded,  leaving  the  savages  un- 
subdued, and,  in  fact,  more  hostile  and  dangerous  than  before — a  condition  of 
things  that  tended  much  to  discourage  immigration  and  retard  the  exploration 
of  the  country,  inasmuch  as  travellers  and  prospecting  parties  could  not,  for 
some  time  after,  proceed  to  any  distance  from  the  more  populous  settlements  with- 
out danger.  Considered  in  its  immediate  and  more  remote  results,  it  may  safely 
be  calculated  that  these  Indian  difficulties  set  the  whole  country  back  at  least  one 
year. 

Prior  to  the  month  of  June,  1860,  all  the  ore  taken  from  the  Comstock 
ledge,  with  the  exception  of  trifling  quantities  worked  in  arrastras,  and  at  a  small 
water-mill  on  Carson  River,  had  been  sent  to  San  Francisco  for  sale  or  reduction. 
In  August  of  that  year  the  first  quartz-mills  erected  in  the  Territory  were 
completed,  that  built  under  the  superintendence  of  Almorin  B.  Paul,  known 
as  the  Washoe  Mill,  situate  at  Devil's  Gate,  being  the  first  of  these  establish- 
ments started.  The  same  day  (August  13,  1860),  Coover's  mill  at  Gold  Hill 
got  up  steam,  being  but  an  hour  or  two  behind  the  other  in  commencing  oper- 
ations. Once  entered  upon,  the  building  of  quartz-mills  progressed  so  rapidly 
that,  in  less  than  two  years  from  the  completion  of  the  first,  there  were  over 
eighty  of  these  works,  carrying  twelve  thousand  stamps,  in  operation,  the  aggre- 
gate cost  of  which  was  nearly  four  million  dollars ;  the  development  of  the  mines, 
the  building  of  roads,  and  other  improvements,  having  kept  even  pace  with  the 
construction  of  quartz-mills.  During  these  two  years  the  town  of  Virginia,  from 
a  small  village,  grew  into  a  city  of  eight  or  ten  thousand  inhabitants ;  Carson, 
Gold  Hill,  Dayton,  and  Aurora,  increased  to  considerable  towns,  while  a  number 
of  populous  centres  were  established  elsewhere  in  the  mining,  lumbering,  or 
agricultural  districts.  A  flood  occurring  in  the  fall  of  1861,  followed  by  one 
still  more  serious  the  ensuing  spring,  caused  great  destruction  to  the  roads,  mills, 
dams,  ditches,  and  similar  property,  throughout  the  Territor}^  interrupting  for  a 
time  the  progress  of  work,  and  diminishing  the  product  of  bullion.  The  aggre- 
gate of  losses  caused  by  these  floods  and  the  accompanying  storms,  including  those 
arising  from  interrupted  labor,  amounted  to  over  two  million  dollars.  For  a 
more  detailed  account  of  individual  enterprises  and  branches  of  business,  local 
improvements,  etc.,  the  chapters  descriptive  of  the  several  counties  in  the  State 
may  be  consulted. 

Having  thus  glanced  at  the  leading  facts  connected  with  the  early  settlement 
of  Nevada,  it  may  be  expedient,  before  proceeding  to  speak  in  detail  of  its  min- 
eral wealth  and  industrial  progress,  to  present  a  brief  narrative  of  its  political 
history,  following  the  same  with  some  account  of  the  topography,  physical  fea- 
tures, and  natural  productions  of  the  country. 

POLITICAL    HISTORY    OF    NEVADA. 

The  territory  comprised  within  the  limits  of  this  State  originally  belonged 
to  Mexico,  being  a  part  of  that  purchased  by  our  Government  under  the  treaty 
of  Guadalupe  Hidalgo,  consummated  in  1848.  Prior  to  its  alienation  by  the 
Republic  of  Mexico,  it  was  included  in  tbe  department  of  "  Alta  California." 
After  its  acquisition  by  the  United  States  it  formed  a  part  of  the  Territory  of 
Utah,  constituting  the  western  portion  thereof,  from  Avhich  it  was  separated  by 
act  of  Congress,  approved  March  2,  1861,  and  erected  into  the  Territory  of 
Nevada.     Anterior  to  this  event,  an  attempt  was  made  by  the  then  residents  of 


SKETCH    OF    NEVADA.  107 

this  reg-iou  to  sever  it  from  Vtali  and  form  it  into  a  separate  Territory,  which 
also  it  was  proposed  sliould  be  named  Nevada.  Chafiiiij  under  the  rule  of  the 
Mormons,  as  aU-eady  rchited,  they  be^-an  ao-itatinij;  tliis  measure  as  early  as  1857, 
consummating-  it  two  years  thereafter — that  is,  so  far  as  tlie  adoption  of  a  con- 
stitution, and  the  election  of  Territorial  oiheers  and  a  delegate  to  Concjress,  could 
ctfect  that  object;  the  national  le!:iislature,  when  it  came  to  be  submitted  to 
them,  declining  to  indorse  their  action,  James  ]M.  Crane  was  chosen  delegate 
to  represent  these  people  at  Washington,  whither  he  proceeded  in  1858,  urging 
their  claims  in  a  very  intelligent  and  energetic  manner.  Returning  to  his  con- 
stituents in  1859,  Crane  dying  suddenly  in  the  fall  of  that  year,  John  J.  Mnsser 
was  elected  his  successor.  Musser  also  Avcnt  to  Washington,  where  he  spent  a 
year  without  accomplishing  or  materially  advancing  the  object  of  his  mission. 
In  the  mean  time,  events  transph'ed  that  led  the  people  to  abandon  the  effort  at 
establishing  a  separate  government,  and  determined  them  to  reorganize  the 
county  of  Carson,  as  being  the  only  procedure  that  promised  to  bring  them  pres- 
ent relief.  The  discovery  of  the  mines  at  Virginia  had  brought  in  a  large  popu- 
lation, and,  by  advancing  the  prices  of  property,  stimulating  trade,  and  creating 
a  new  and  more  potential  industr}^,  rendered  tlie  adoption  of  some  plan  for  in- 
suring an  administration  of  law  neccssaiy.  No  attempt  at  setting  the  machinery 
of  this  provisional  government  in  motion  had  as  yet  been  made  ;  wherefore,  Avhen 
the  Territorial  Legislature  convened  at  Genoa,  the  capital,  on  the  15th  day  of 
December,  1859,  Governor  Roop,  in  the  message  transmitted  to  them,  having  re- 
counted the  causes  that  liad  first  led  to  tlie  inauguration  of  this  movement  and 
the  changed  circumstances  under  which  they  now  found  themselves  placed,  ad- 
journed the  Assembly  to  the  month  of  January  following — this,  the  first,  proving 
to  be  the  final  adjournment  of  that  body.  In  the  spring  of  1860,  John  Cradle- 
baugh,  appointed  one  of  the  United  States  District  Judges  for  Utah,  arrived  in 
Carson  Valley,  having  been  assigned  to  this  portion  of  the  Territory.  As  an 
officer,  he  discharged  liis  duties  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  people,  but  as  all  pro- 
ceedings had  to  be  taken  and  all  cases  adjudicated  under  the  statutes  of  Utah, 
popular  dissatisfaction  failed  to  be  allayed,  and  but  little  judicial  business  was 
done ;  nor  did  the  restoration  of  Carson  County,  containing  all  the  "white  popu- 
lation in  the  western  part  of  the  Territory,  secure  the  good  results  anticipated. 
Confiision  and  in.security  continued  to  prevail,  rendering  the  titles  to  property 
uncertain,  keeping  out  capital,  and  greatly  impeding  the  industrial  progress  of 
the  country,  until  Congress,  by  an  act  approved  March  2,  1861,  erected  this 
part  of  Utah  into  the  Territory  of  Nevada,  a  measure  that  soon  brought  order  and 
security,  relieving  the  community  of  a  condition  of  things  bordering  on  anarchy. 
In  the  month  of  July  following,  James  W.  Nye,  who  had  been  appointed  Gov- 
ernor, and  most  of  the  other  Federal  officials,  arrived  in  the  Territory,  and  at 
once  entered  upon  the  vigorous  performance  of  their  duties.  On  the  .31st  day 
of  August  an  election  was  held  in  accordance  with  a  proclamation  of  the  Gov- 
ernor, whereat  members  of  the  Legislature  and  a  delegate  to  Congress  were 
chosen.  Judge  Cradlebaugh  being  selected  for  the  latter  position.  The  Legis- 
lature at  their  first  session,  commencing  on  the  first  of  October,  enacted  a  very 
excellent  code  of  laws,  modelled  after  those  of  California.  The  Territorial  organ- 
ization thus  effected  continued  to  be  maintained  until  the  19th  day  of  January, 
1864,  when  it  was  superseded  by  the  present  State  constitution,  then  adopted 
under  an  enabling  act  of  Congres'=;.  A  similar  instrument,  framed  by  a  conven- 
tion duly  chosen,  had,  on  being  submitted  to  the  people,  been  by  them  rejected  the 
previous  year.  Nevada  was,  on  proclamation  of  the  President,  admitted  into  the 
Union,  forming  the  thirty-sixth  State,  on  the  last  day  of  October,  1864,  being  barely 
in  time  to  allow  the  people  to  cast  a  vote  for  presidential  electors  that  year. 
The  constitution  of  tliis  State  declares  in  its  Bill  of  Rights  that  the  paramount 
allegiance  of  every  citizen  is  due  to  the  Federal  Government,  and  that  no  power 
exists  in  the  people  of  this  or  any  other  State  of  the  Federal  Union  to  dissolve 


198  SKETCH    OF    NEVADA. 

their  connection  therewith,  or  to  perform  any  other  act  tending  to  impair,  sub- 
vert, or  resist  the  supreme  authorit}'  of  the  Government  of  the  United  States,  and 
asserting  the  right  of  the  latter  to  maintain  the  Union,  and  compel  obedience 
to  its  laws  by  the  employment  of  whatever  force  is  necessary  to  that  end — Ne- 
vada having  been  the  first  State  to  engraft  this  doctrine  of  Federal  supremacy 
on  its  fundamental  law.  In  her  acceptance  of  the  provision  contained  in  the 
enabling  act  of  Congress,  requiring  that  she  should,  by  an  ordinance  forever 
irrevocable,  without  the  consent  of  the  United  States,  prohibit  slavery  within 
her  limits,  Nevada  has  entitled  herself  to  the  further  distinction  of  being  the  first 
State  to  surrender  all  power  over  this  institution,  by  a  condition  precedent  to 
the  framing  of  her  primary  law.  The  entire  vote  polled  in  the  State  at  the  No- 
vembe  relection  in  1864,  was  16,420,  of  which  9,826  were  cast  for  Lincoln  and 
6,594  for  McClellan  electors.  On  this  occasioir  H.  G.  Blasdel  was  chosen  Gov- 
ernor, in  opposition  to  David  E.  Buel,  and  Henry  G.  Worthington  was  elected 
member  of  the  House  of  Representatives.  The  Legislature,  at  its  first  session 
under  thenew  constitution,  elected  William  M.  Stewart  and  James  W.  Nye  United 
States  Senators,  the  latter  having  been  reelected  to  this  position  in  January, 
1867.  Delos  R.  Ashley,  chosen  representative  to  Congress  iu  1864,  was  re- 
elected in  the  fell  of  1866.  at  which  time  also  H.  G.  Blasdel  was  reelected  Gov- 
ernor of  the  State.  At  its  session  commencing  on  the  first  Monday  of  Janu- 
ary, 1867,  the  Legislature  of  this  State  ratified  the  proposed  amendment  to  the 
Constitution  of  the  United  States,  abolishing  slavery  in  all  parts  of  the  Rej)ublic, 
there  being  but  a  single  negative  vote  cast  in  each  branch  of  that  body. 


DISCOVERY    OF    GOLD,    ETC.  199 


THE  DISCOVERY  OF  GOLD  IN  CALIFORNIA.* 

TransIakJ  from  the  "  Colcccion  de  ihciimcntos  rclativos  al  dcpartnicnto  de  Californias,  j)or 

ilanucl  Castafiarcs." 

"Mexico,  1844. 

"  The  deposit  of  o-okl  discovered  in  the  course  of  last  year  has  attracted  cfi'eat 
attention.  It  extends  itself  nearly  tliirty  Icao-ues.  The  good  quality  of  this 
metal  is  made  manifest  by  the  certificate  of  its  assay,  which  was  made  hy  the 
bank  of  this  capital,  the  orio-inal  of  which  is  in  the  possession  of  your  Excellency. 
In  order  to  brino;  to  liglit  the  elements  of  the  great  riches  in  which  the  Califor- 
nias abound,  it  is  necessary  to  dictate  the  means  of  a  very  thorough  examination. 
I  shall  have  the  honor  within  a  few  days  to  present  to  your  Excellency  an  account 
of  what  those  detailed  elements  consist,  and  the  means  of  unfolding  them  with 
very  few  sacrifices. 

''  Manuel  Castanares." 

Extract  of  letter  to  tlie  Minister  of  Foreign  Relations  and  Government  con- 
cerning the  resources  of  the  State. 

"  MINING. 

"This  branch  ought  to  be  considered  less  worthy  of  attracting  attention  than 
agi'iculture.  It  is  nevertheless  of  great  importance,  and  I  have  the  satitsfactiou 
of  assuring  you  that  it  forms  in  California  one  of  the  most  valuable  resources 
which  that  department  contains.  Besides  the  mines  of  silver  which  have  been 
found  and  which  have  been  proved  by  the  extraction  of  some  metal,  the  placer 
of  gold  in  particular  is  worthy  of  all  attention,  which,  w'ith  nearly  thir  'eagues 
of  extension,  was  discovered  lately,  and  the  coal-mines.  It  is  painful  for  r^e  to  have 
to  confess  that  this  branch  is  in  a  worse  state  than  that  of  agriculture,  that  it  is  in 
its  infancy — this,  it  can  be  said,  is  not  yet  born,  notwithstanding  that,  according 
to  the  approximate  calculation  of  reliable  people  of  Los  Angeles,  on  my  departu'  3 
from  that  town  in  December,  18G3,  there  were  in  circulation  about  two  thousand 
ounces  of  gold  which  had  been  taken  out  of  the  above-mentioned  mine,  the 
greater  part  of  which  was  destined  to  the  United  States.  This  metal  has  some 
alloy — according  to  the  certificate  of  its  assay  by  the  bank  of  this  capital,  which 
was  in  the  possession  of  the  governmeut  at  the  beginning  of  this  year — twenty- 
two  carats'  two  and  a  half  grains  of  gold  and  fifteen  grains  of  silver." 


ALTITUDES  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  POINTS  ON  THE 
PACIFIC  SLOPE,  t 

THE    COAST    RANGE, 

In  the  middle  part  of  California,  has  an  average  height  of  2,000  or  3,000  feet, 
with  no  peaks  as  high  as  4,000  feet.  To  the  north  and  south  its  average  height 
is  about  5,000  feet.  To  the  west  of  this  range  the  temperature  is  greatly  modified 
by  the  ocean,  making  the  range  of  the  thermometer  very  small.  To  the  east,  as 
in  Sacramento  Valley,  the  temperature  varies  much  more,  because  nuich  of  the 
moisture  from  the  sea  cannot  reach  it. 

*  Translated  by  Charles  Yale.  +  Famished  by  Lieutenant-Coloucl  Williamson,  U.  S.  A. 


200 


ALTITUDES    OF    THE    PACIFIC    SLOPE. 


THE    SIERRA    NEVADA 

Is  the  highest  range  of  mountains  in  the  United  States.  Its  passes  are  from 
5,000  to  8,000  feet  high,  with  peaks  to  the  north  and  south  occasionally  reach- 
ing over  14,000  feet.  The  central  part  is  of  less  altitude.  The  climate  of  the 
western  slope  is  very  dry,  compared  Avith  that  of  the  coast,  with  a  considerable 
monthly  and  daily  range  of  the  thermometer. 

THE    GREAT    BASIN. 

East  of  the  Sierra  the  climate  is  exceedingly  dry,  the  difterence  of  the  wet 
and  dry  bulbs  of  the  psychromcter  occasionally  reaching  40°  F.  Sometimes"  the 
thormometer  will  read  80°  F.  at  two  p.  m.,  and  below  the  fi-eezing  point  in  the 
coldest  part  of  the  following  night.  This  so-called  "  Great  Basin  "  is  bounded 
on  the  east  by  the  Rocky  Mountains,  on  the  south  by  the  Colorado  River,  etc., 
and  has  an  average  height  of  4,000  feet,  with  peaks  and  ranges  sometimes  reach- 
ing 10,000  feet.  It  contains  a  valley  30  miles  in  length  ("Death  Valley,"  the 
sink  of  the  xVmargosa  River),  which  is  I'to  feet  below  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  Colorado  Desert  has  a  climate  very  much  like  that  of  the  Great  Basin, 
though  it  is  much  nearer  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  temperature  occasionalhj 
reaches  120°  F.  in  the  shade.  On  the  Pacific  coast  the  barometer  seldom  changes 
in  the  warmest  month  more  than  ^g-  of  an  inch,  and  in  the  coldest  month  more 
than  -j^j  of  an  inch. 


MOITNTAINS,    ETC. 


Mount  Shasta,  California, 
Mount  Hood,  Oregon, 
Mount  Diablo,  California, 
Aurora,  Nevada, 
Austin,       " 
Virginia  City,  " 
Carson  City,    " 
Placerville,  California, 
Yosemite  Valley,  " 
Death  Valley,        " 
Astoria,  Oregon, 
San  Francisco,  California, 
Sacramento,  " 

San  Diego,  " 

Sitka,Aliaska, 


Altitude  in 
feet. 


14,440 

11,225 

3,853 

7,441 

6,451 

6,300 

4,720 

1,965 

3  935 

'l75 

near  sea-level. 


Barometer, 

yearly  mean. 


THERJIOMETEK. 


Average  of         Average  of 
coldest  month,  warmest  mouth 


78" 


71 
76 


63 
61 

72 
68 
55 


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